TDI Injector/Nozzle Swap Howto

Copyright 2003 by Davin Swanson, davin.swanson@earthlink.net

Special thanks to KERMA for supplying the nozzles, to GeWilli for last-minute advice, to GoFaster, eidie2,
Betzel, Boundless, and The Ripster for constructive criticism and to the good folks of Fred’s
(http://www.tdiclub.com)

This document explains injector removal, nozzle swap, and injector reinstallation on a VW TDI. The car
used was a 2001 Golf (ALH engine). The instructions should be similar for earlier TDI engines (AHU and
1Z). I welcome email with comments or questions about the content of this howto!

Anything you do to your own car is AT YOUR OWN RISK! I deny any responsibility or liability for
anything that you may do to your car. I'm not a professional mechanic; I just like tinkering with my
car. Don't do any of this if you aren't comfortable with modifying your engine and be prepared to
deal with the consequences if you screw something up.

If you intend to use this document as a guide, READ THE WHOLE THING FIRST. Required tools and
procedures are sprinkled throughout, so make sure that you have all required tools beforehand, AND that
you are comfortable with every required procedure.

I’ve broken the job down into four sections: removing injectors, swapping nozzles, installing injectors, and
ECU adjustments. If you just want to install new injectors and aren’t doing a nozzle swap, just skip that
part. It’s recommended that after installing nozzles you get them pop-tested by a local Bosch shop
(http://www.boschservice.com) certified on VE equipment. Any shop knowledgeable about
Dodge/Cummins diesels should be able to help. They can set the spring preloads in the nozzles and make
sure that the spray pattern is good. These shops can only set one of the two springs in the injector, but
that’s better than nothing.

KERMA (http://www.kermatdi.com) has a tool that can set both spring preloads. If you want perfectly set
nozzles, he’s the guy to get in contact with.

Before you start, make sure you have:

 17mm wrench
 15mm wrench
 13mm socket
 10mm socket
 Ratchet and various extensions
 Torque wrench
 Paper/shop towels. Lots of them if you’re swapping nozzles.
 Diesel fuel or biodiesel for cleaning (if you’re swapping nozzles)
 Toothbrush (if you’re swapping nozzles)
 4 new sealing washers (046 130 219 A)

Prije nego što počnemo, trebamo pripremiti:

• 17mm ključ
• 15 mm ključ
• 13 mm nasadni ključ
• 10 mm nasadni ključ
• Pribor za nasadne ključeve
• Momentni ključ
• Papir / ubrusi. Mnogo ih treba ako zamjenjujemo mlaznice.
• Dizelsko gorivo ili biodizel za čišćenje (ako mijenjate mlaznice)
• četkica za zube (ako mijenjate mlaznice)
• 4 nova brtvena podizača (046 130 219 A)

JAKO VAŽNO!!!! Morate to učiniti kod hladnog motora! Pazite da motor ostane hladiti najmanje četiri
sata prije uklanjanja mlaznica.
 Injector Removal
Pop your hood and remove the engine cover (the three 10mm bolts under the round plastic covers). You
should see something like the photo below.

Uklanjanje brizgaljki

Skinemo poklopac motora (tri vijka od 10 mm ispod okruglih plastičnih pokrova).

Clean the nuts on the ends of the metal fuel lines, both at the injectors and at the pump. Cleanliness is
important here. You don’t want dirt getting into the fuel system! Then, remove the two black plastic clips
holding each pair of fuel lines together. You need to use a flat screwdriver to pop them open, and then they
can be pushed off the lines. Remove the braided fuel return line going back to the fuel pump off of the
number 4 injector (on the far right). Be careful not to damage the nipple on the injector! Unclip it from the
plastic clip on the vacuum reservoir (sphere on the right) and put it somewhere out of the way. You might
want to put a paper towel around the end to catch any fuel that drips out.

Now, move the metal fuel lines out of the way in order to make room to do other things…

NOTE: At this point I’ll mention that there are two schools of thought in removing injectors… doing all
four at once or two at a time. I discuss this in the installation section at the end. But that’s OK, because
you’re going to read this whole document before taking anything apart, aren’t you?!

Očistimo matice na krajevima metalnih cijevi za gorivo, kako na brizgaljkama tako i na

pumpi. Čistoća je važna ovdje. Ne smijemo dopustiti da prljavština uđe u sustav goriva!
Zatim uklonimo dvije crne plastične kopče koje drže svaki par cijevi za gorivo zajedno.
Moramo upotrijebiti ravni odvijač da ih otvorimo, a potom se mogu odgurnuti s linije.
Uklonite povratnu liniju koja se vraća na pumpu za gorivo od mlaznice broj 4 (na krajnjem
desno). Moramo paziti da ne oštetimo bradavicu na mlaznici! Odspojimo ga od plastične
kopče na vakuumskom spremniku (sferi na desnoj strani). Trebali staviti papirnati ručnik
oko kraja da biste uhvatili gorivo koje izlazi. Sada, maknemo metalne cijevi za gorivo kako
bi napravili mjesta za druge stvari. Treba spomenuti da postoje dvije škole mišljenja u
uklanjanju injektora - sve četiri odjednom ili dvije po jedan.
 Use a 17mm flare-nut wrench (or your regular 17mm wrench) to crack the fuel lines at the pump. You
won’t take these off the pump, you’ll just rotate the lines away from the injectors to get them out of the
way, so just loosen the nuts about half a turn. You might want to put a towel underneath the pump to catch
any drips. I didn’t see any on mine, but there’s lots of rubber underneath there, so it would be a good
precaution.

Upotrijebite 17mm ključ kako biste odvojili vodove za gorivo na pumpi. Nećemo ih odvojiti s
pumpe, samo ćemoih otpustiti da ih maknemo s puta. Možemo ispod pumpe postaviti
ručnik ispod pumpe da bistmo uhvatili kapljice.
 Now do the same thing at the injectors. These are going to come off, but loosen them all first. You should
just need to crack them with the wrench and then loosen them by hand.

Napravimo isto s injektorima. Treba ih samo započeti ključem, a zatim ih ručno odvojite.
 When all the lines are loose, lift them up and away from the injectors. Let them hang off of the pump. Be
VERY careful with the lines when you move them… some need to be moved before others due to their
shape. You’ll see. It’s very important that the lines not be bent or stressed too much! Keep this in mind
during the next few steps as well.

Notice that the black bus bar for the glow plugs has been removed and put to the side. The glow plugs sit
in the head right next to each injector. If you’ve ever changed spark plugs on a gasser (ugh!), the connector
is very similar. Just pull on it and it’ll pop off.

Injector three is larger than the rest and has a wire coming off the top of it. This is the wire for the needle-
lift sensor. It leads to a brown connector, anchored to a metal clip, which is then plugged into the engine
wiring harness. If you look down underneath injector 3, you’ll see it next to a gray connector (the engine
speed sender). Disconnect the harness from the brown connector (you need to push in the metal retaining
clips on either side of the harness plug) and lift the brown connector out of the clip. This was very difficult
on my engine! I think that some pollen and gook had gotten in there and the brown connector wasn’t
budging. Push up from below on both sides; wiggle it if necessary, but BE GENTLE. Breaking this means
buying a new #3 injector.

Kada su sve linije labave, podignemo ih i odmaknemo od mlaznica. Pustimo ih da vise s

pumpe. Trebamo biti vrlo oprezni s linijama kada ih premještamo ... neke trebaju biti
premješteni prije drugih zbog njihovog oblika. Vrlo je važno da linije ne budu savijene ili
previše! Treba crnu sabirnica ukloniti i staviti na stranu. Mlaznica tri je veća od ostatka i
ima žicu koja dolazi s vrha. To je žica za senzor za podizanje igle. To dovodi do smeđeg
konektora, pričvršćenog na metalni kvačicu, koji je zatim priključen u kabelski svežanj
motora. Ako pogledamo dolje ispod mlaznice 3, vidjet ćemo ga pored sivog konektora
(pošiljatelja brzine motora). Odvojimo kabelski svežanj od smeđeg konektora (moramo
gurnuti metalne držače na obje strane kabelskog svežnja) i podignite smeđi konektor iz
kopče. Ovo zna biti vrlo teško ali moramo biti nježni jer razbijanje toga znači kupnju novog
trećeg injektora.
 Using a 13mm socket and ratchet, remove the retaining bolt from each of the injector holders. Remove
each holder, being careful not to drop the nut and the special washer.

Pomoću 13mm nasadnog ključa i zatezača, uklonimo pričvrsni vijak sa svakog držača
mlaznice. Izvadimo svaki držač, ali moramo pazite da ne ispustite maticu i posudu.
 Here’s one of the injector holders. Notice the crud buildup. I gave these a good cleaning along with the
dimple in the head to make sure that the mating surfaces were clean on reinstall.

Na slici vidimo jedan od nositelja mlaznica. Trebamo obratiti pažnju na grube nakupine.
Treba ih dobro očistiti prije ponovne ugradnje.
 Now the fun part… getting the injectors out of the head. This is a diesel, so there’s going to be a lot of soot
caked on the end of the injector in the head, so it’s going to take some persuasion. If you have a source of
compressed air, it wouldn’t hurt to blow out the area around each injector to get out any gook that may
have built up. Use a 15mm wrench on the flat part of the injector body and try to rotate it left and right in
the head. You’re basically trying to work it loose. At the same time, pull up on the injector. This is tricky,
because you don’t want to pull on the return nipples, and you want to be careful not to get dirt into the
feedhole in the top of the injector. As an afterthought, it would be nice if you bought threaded caps ahead
of time that you could install on the injectors to prevent dirt from getting in. I don’t know the size that
would be needed; if anyone knows please email me and I’ll note it here.

Once the injector has worked loose and you can lift it out of the head, leave it there and do the other three.
You’ll notice that I didn’t remove the inter-injector fuel return lines. I decided to take all four injectors out
hooked together and then remove the lines on the bench. It was much easier to remove them once out of
the engine.

Sad dolazi glavni dio, odvajanje mlaznice iz glave. Ovo je dizel, tako da će biti mnogo čađe na kraju
injektora u glavi. Ako imamo izvor komprimiranog zraka, ne bi bilo teško očistiti područje oko svakog
mlaznica. Koristimo ključ od 15 mm na ravnom dijelu tijela mlaznice i pokušamo ga okretati lijevo i
desno u glavi. Bilo bi lijepo da kupimo navojne kape koje bismo mogli postaviti kako bi spriječili ulazak
prljavštine.

Jednom kada je injektor popustio i možete ga podići iz glave, ostavite ga tamo i obavite isto s ostala tri.
 Here are the four injectors out of the engine, with the return lines still attached. All done! If you’re
swapping nozzles, continue on, but if not just go on to the installation part at the end.

Hint: if you close the hood at this point, REMEMBER THE FUEL LINES! Bent fuel lines will ruin your
day. Lower them back against the engine and rest each against a towel so that dirt doesn’t get in the lines.

Na slici vidimo četiri ubrizgavača iz motora, s povratnim vodovima koji su još uvijek
priključeni. Sve je gotov! Ako mijenjate mlaznice, nastavite dalje, ali ako ne samo idite na
instalacijski dio na kraju
 Swapping Nozzles
Make sure that you have a clean work area. A metal work surface is better than a wood workbench, since
you don’t want sawdust getting into the bits and pieces. Cleanliness is of UTMOST IMPORTANCE
here! The injectors are very precision pieces of equipment. Keep everything that touches the injector
clean!

Zamjenjivanje mlaznica Pazite da imate čisto područje rada. Metalna radna površina je bolja od
drvene radne ploče, jer ne želite da piljevina uđe u komadiće. Čistoća je ovdje izuzetno važno!
Injektori su vrlo precizni dijelovi opreme. Držite sve ono što dotakne brizgaljku čisto!

This is clearly a “before” photo of one of my injectors. What a mess! Notice all the soot caked on the
nozzle. This soot has caked inside the sealing washer, which now won’t come off. I removed the retaining
nut and nozzle from the injector before trying to remove the sealing washer, but you can do that step first if
you’re so inclined.

The retaining nut is what holds the nozzle against the body of the injector. It needs to come off, the nozzle
needs to be taken out, the new nozzle needs to be installed on the injector body, and the retaining nut
screwed back down. And everything must be CLEANED of soot and residue as well as possible.

Ovo je jasno "prije" fotografija jednog od mojih injektora. Koji nered! Uočite sve čađe na mlaznici. Ova
čađa je zamotana unutar brtvene perilice, koja sada neće nestati. Uklonio sam maticu i mlaznicu iz
mlaznice prije nego što pokušavam ukloniti brtvenu perilicu, ali prvi korak možete napraviti ako ste
tako skloni.

Zadržna matica je ono što drži mlaznicu protiv tijela injektora. Potrebno je skinuti, mlaznicu treba
izvaditi, novu mlaznicu treba postaviti na tijelo mlaznice i pričvrsnu maticu. I sve je potrebno čistiti od
čađe i ostataka što je više moguće.
 I cannot stress enough how helpful a vise is to have here. It keeps the injector stable, upright, and given
that I had to use a cheater bar to crack two of the retaining nuts, allows for more leverage than you can get
by using two wrenches.

Place the injector nozzle-side up in a vise. Be VERY careful of the fuel-return nipples. Don’t bend them
or crack them off. The number 3 injector can be a little tricky to get in there, but I did it, so you can too.
Use a 15mm wrench to loosen the retaining nut. A 15mm deep socket can also be used. When the nut
comes off, diesel will drip out the bottom of the injector, so some towels would be a good idea.

Ne mogu dovoljno naglasiti koliko je korisno imati vise ovdje. Čuva brizgaljku stabilnom,
uspravnom, a s obzirom na to da moram upotrijebiti šipku za varanje kako bi se razbila dva
zadržavajuća matica, omogućuje veći utjecaj nego što možete dobiti pomoću dva ključa.
Postavite mlaznicu mlaznice prema gore u otvor. Budite vrlo pažljivi na brtvila za povrat
goriva. Nemojte ih savijati ili ih ispucati. Injektor broj 3 može biti malo lukav da se tamo, ali
ja sam to učinio, tako da i vi možete. Pomoću ključa od 15 mm otpustite pričvrsnu maticu.
Također se može koristiti dubok utor od 15 mm. Kada se matica sruši, dizel će ispustiti dno
mlaznice, tako da bi neki ručnici bili dobri.
 (note: if the above image looks different… it’s because it is! I forgot to take a pic of the injector body
without the nozzle. Thanks to KERMA for this pic…)

IMPORTANT! When you get close to the end of the threads BE CAREFUL AND WORK SLOWLY.
You don’t want bits of the injector falling out. There will be a bushing on top of the injector (the disk
sitting on top in the pic above) when you lift off the retaining nut. Be careful with it! Don’t let it fall off.
It might have lifted off its base as you removed the retaining nut. If so, gently (and with clean fingers)
rotate it until it seats into the injector again.

At this point, you should clean the threads on the injector with your diesel or biodiesel and a toothbrush.
Try to get them as clean as possible, and then dry them.

Note the two pegs sticking out of the top of the bushing, slightly offset from the center. If you look at the
bottom of the nozzle you just took off, you’ll see two corresponding holes. Later on, when you install the
new nozzle, you’ll line up the holes with the pegs. But first… cleaning!

(napomena: ako gore navedena slika izgleda drugačije ... Zato što je! Zaboravila sam uzeti
sliku tijela mlaznice bez mlaznice. Zahvaljujući KERMA za ovu sliku ...) VAŽNO! Kada se
približite kraju niti, budite oprezni i lagano idite na posao. Ne želite da se komadi mlaznice
puste. Na vrhu mlaznice (disk koji sjedi na vrhu gore navedene slike) bit će čahura kada
podignete pričvrsnu maticu. Budite oprezni s njom! Nemojte pustiti da padne. Možda je
podigao svoju podlogu kad ste uklonili maticu. Ako je tako, lagano (i čistim prstima)
okrećite ga dok se ne sjedne ponovno u mlaznicu. U ovom trenutku, trebali biste očistiti
navoje na brizgaljkama s dizelom ili biodizelom i zubnom četkicom. Pokušajte ih dobiti što
je čišće, a zatim ih osušite. Imajte na umu da su dvije vrpce na vrhu čahure, malo
pomaknute od središta. Ako pogledate dno mlaznice koju ste upravo skinuli, vidjet ćete
dvije odgovarajuće rupe. Kasnije, kada instalirate novu mlaznicu, poravnate s rupama. Ali
prvo ... čišćenje!
 The washer can be a real pain to get off from around the base of the nozzle. Just be persistent. Soak the
end in diesel/biodiesel, use the toothbrush, and use a small flat-blade screwdriver to scrape the soot out
from the INSIDE of the washer surface. Try to rotate the nozzle against the retaining nut. Keep doing this
until things start to come apart.

Removing the plunger might be a good idea while doing all this. If you want to reuse these nozzles at some
point, don’t follow my lead by putting it down on a dirty soot-and-diesel soaked rag. Out of all of the parts
where cleanliness is important, the plunger and inside of the nozzle are the most important!

Also, do NOT try to get the washer off by prying at the junction between it and the retaining nut. The
surface of the retaining nut that touches the sealing washer should not be marred! If so, you may not get a
good seal when you reinstall that injector. Be patient with the solvent and toothbrush.

Once the washer is off, the nozzle may still not want to come out of the retaining nut. Give it some solvent
and toothbrush action, and give it a couple of good whacks (nozzle side up of course!) against a block of
wood. This is the GeWilli method, and works like a charm.

Perilica može biti prava boli da se spusti s baze mlaznice. Samo biti uporni. Potopite kraj dizela /
biodizela, koristite četkicu za zube i koristite mali ravni odvijač za struganje čađe iz INSIDE površine
perača. Pokušajte zakretati mlaznicu protiv matice. Držite ovo sve dok se stvari ne počnu raspadati.

Uklanjanje klipova može biti dobra ideja za sve to. Ako želite ponovno koristiti ove mlaznice u nekom
trenutku, nemojte slijediti moju vodu tako da ga stavite na prljavu čađu i dizel natopljene krpe. Od svih
dijelova gdje je čistoća važna, klip i unutarnji dio mlaznice su najvažniji!

Također, NEMOJTE pokušati skinuti perilicu prying na spoju između nje i matica. Površina pričvrsne
matice koja dodiruje brtvenu peru ne smije biti oštećena! Ako je tako, možda nećete dobiti dobru brtvu
kada ponovno instalirate injektor. Budite strpljivi s otapalom i zubnom četkicom.
Jednom kada je dizalica isključena, mlaznica još uvijek ne želi izaći iz matice. Dajte mu neko djelovanje
otapala i četkice za zube, i dajte joj par dobrih udaraca (mlaznica prema gore, naravno!) Na blok drva.
Ovo je GeWilli metoda, i radi kao šarm.
 See, I told you that patience pays off! Here’s the nozzle separated from the nut. Put the plunger back in
the nozzle if you removed it, and set them aside.

Now, get to work on the retaining nut with the solvent and toothbrush. Clean the threads on the inside of
the nut and clean the area around the nozzle opening inside and out. Get ALL of the soot out of there. This
thing should be pristine when you’re done with it!!!

Vidiš, rekao sam vam da strpljivost plaća! Ovdje je mlaznica odvojena od matice. Stavite klip natrag u
mlaznicu ako ste ga uklonili i odložili na stranu.

Sada, obradite maticu s otapalom i zubnom četkicom. Očistite navoje na unutarnjoj strani matice i
očistite područje oko otvora mlaznice iznutra i izvana. Izvucite sve čađe odande. Ova stvar bi trebala biti
netaknuta kad završite s njom !!!
 Once everything is clean (the entire retaining nut and the threads of the injector), get out your shiny new
nozzle and install it on the top of the injector. Do NOT touch the tip with anything and do NOT take out
the plunger! Remember the two offset pins in the top of the bushing sitting on the top of the injector?
You’ll see three holes in the bottom of the new nozzle; two slip over these pins and the third is a fuel port.
You’ll be able to figure out how it’s installed (it will only go on one way).

Once you slip it on, there will be a slight gap between the bottom of the nozzle and the surface of the
bushing. Don’t worry… when you install the retaining nut, it will push the nozzle down and set preload on
the springs in the injector.

Nakon što je sve čisto (cijela matica za pričvršćivanje i niti injektora), izbacite sjajnu novu mlaznicu i
postavite je na vrh mlaznice. NEMOJTE dodirivati vrh ni s čime, a NE izvadite klip! Sjeća li se dva offset
igala na vrhu čahure koja sjedi na vrhu mlaznice?
Vidjet ćete tri rupe na dnu nove sapnice; dva skliznuti nad tim igle, a treći je luka za gorivo. Moći ćete
shvatiti kako je instaliran (to će ići samo na jedan način).

Nakon što ga skliznete, pojavit će se mali razmak između dna mlaznice i površine čahure. Ne brinite se ...
kad ugradite maticu, gurnite mlaznicu prema dolje i postavite prednaprezanje na opruge u mlaznici.
 Once the new nozzle is in place, carefully put the retaining nut over the nozzle (being careful NOT to touch
the nozzle tip!!!) and screw it down. If you’ve done a good job of cleaning everything, you should be able
to easily screw the nut down by hand. When you get to the last thread or two, you may feel resistance, but
you should still be able to screw it down by hand. When you get out the wrench, it won’t take much effort
to bring it down to the end of the threads. When you start feeling serious resistance, tighten it, but NOT
TOO TIGHT. You might get 20-30 degrees out of it, max. Just use a standard 15mm wrench… don’t go
crazy with a cheater bar. If you have a deep socket, a Bosch service shop recommended tightening to 33 ft-
lb; just be careful not to touch the brand new, shiny nozzle tip with any tools!

There it is… repeat for the other three, clean up, and get ready for the reinstall.

Nakon što je nova mlaznica na mjestu, pažljivo stavite pričvrsnu maticu preko mlaznice
(pazite da ne dodirnete vrh mlaznice !!!) i zavarite ga. Ako ste obavili dobar posao čišćenja
sve, trebali biste lako pričvrstiti maticu ručno. Kada dođete do posljednjeg navoja ili dva,
možete osjetiti otpor, ali i dalje biste ga trebali ručno zavarivati. Kada izađete iz ključa,
neće biti potrebno puno truda da se spusti do kraja niti. Kada počnete osjećati ozbiljnu
otpornost, zategnite ga, ali ne previše silom. Možete dobiti 20-30 stupnjeva od toga, max.
Koristite samo standardni 15mm ključ ... nemojte se luditi sa šankom za varanje. Ako imate
duboku utičnicu, Bosch servisna tvrtka preporučuje stezanje do 33 ft-lb; Samo pazite da ne
dodirnete potpuno novi, sjajni vrh mlaznice s bilo kojim alatom! Tamo je ... ponovite za
ostala tri, očistite se i pripremite se za ponovnu instalaciju.
Injector Installation
Whether you’ve installed new nozzles or just have a shiny new OEM set of injectors, now’s time to pop
them back in the engine. There’s only one photo in this section, since the procedure is pretty much the
opposite of the removal, spelled out in the first part.

Instalacija mlaznica

Kod instalacija mlaznica postupak je suprotan uklanjanju.

Clean the holes in the head, being careful not to let any soot down into the combustion chamber. A tiny
vacuum works wonders. The most important part of this is to clean the sealing surface down in each hole
where the copper sealing washer sits. If this isn’t clean, you can get a compression leak. There are a
couple of methods that different people have recommended to get the soot off the sealing surfaces. You
can use a little flat-blade screwdriver to GENTLY loosen the soot. Remember, this is an aluminum head
and you don’t want to mar the surface. A thin wooden chisel dipped in diesel fuel would also work, as
would a toothbrush dipped in diesel. How you do it is up to you… just remember, try not to get anything
down in the combustion chamber, and DON’T mar the sealing surface!!!

Once everything is clean, install the injectors. Use a tiny dab of grease to keep the new sealing washer on
the injector, and lower it into the head. It should go in pretty easily and seat well if you did a good job of
cleaning. Try not to scrape the nozzle tip against anything on the way down. Reinstall the holders and
torque the bolts to 20 N-m. Reattach the inter-injector fuel return lines, but don’t reinstall the final line
back to the pump yet. Reinstall the glow plug harness. Clip the number three electrical connector back
into the metal bracket, and plug the harness connector back in (the metal clips on the harness connector
must be squeezed when attaching it as well).

Lower the fuel lines towards the injectors, and while pressing the ferrule of the line into the injector, tighten
the nuts by hand. Make sure that the lines at the fuel pump end are seated well and that the nuts are finger
tight. Now, torque down the injector-side nuts first. You DON’T need a lot of torque! Spec is 25 N-m,
Očistimo rupe u glavi, treba biti pažljiv da ne ostavljamo čađu u prostoru za izgaranje. Mali vakuum radi
čuda. Najvažniji dio toga je očistiti brtvenu površinu dolje u svakoj rupi gdje se nalazi bakrena brtvena
perilica. Ako to nije čisto, možete dobiti curenje kompresije. Postoji nekoliko metoda koje su različiti
ljudi preporučili da dobiju čađu s brtvene površine. Možete koristiti mali ravni izvijač. Treba imati na
umu da je ovo aluminijska glava i ne smijemo oštetiti površinu. Također bi radila tanka drvena dlijeta
umočena u dizelsko gorivo, kao i četkica za zube umočena u dizel. Način na koji to radimo ovisi o nama.

Nakon što je sve čisto, ugradimo injektore. Koristimo sitnu mrlju masti za brtveni prsten na mlaznici, i
spustimo ga u glavu. Trebala bi se lako uklopiti i dobro sjediti ako smo obavili dobar posao čišćenja.
Ponovno postavimo držače i okrećemo vijke na 20 N-m. Ponovno umetnemo povratne cijevi goriva
između mlaznica, ali ne vraćamo konačnu liniju natrag na pumpu. Pričvrstimo električnu priključnicu
broj 3 natrag u metalni nosač i ponovno spojimo konektor kabelskog svežnja (metalni zatvarači na
konektoru kabelskog svežnja moraju se stisnuti i pri pričvršćivanju).

Spustimo cijevi za gorivo prema mlaznicama, i pritiskom vijka s linijom u mlaznicu, zategnmoe matice
ručno. Provjerimo jesu li linije na kraju pumpe za gorivo dobro postavljene i da matice priliježu. Sada
prvo zavijemo matice na brizgaljkama. Ne treba puno okretnog momenta! ( 25 N-m),
Kada su matice na brizgaljkama zategnute, učinite isto za matice na strani pumpe. Ponovno postavite
povratnu cijev iz pumpe na zadnju mlaznica i provjerite jesu li svi vodovi i električni priključci u mjestu
gdje bi trebali biti. Ugradite dvije plastične spojnica na dva para vodova za gorivo. Sada pokrenemo
motor. Dio goriva se ispustio iz sustava. Samo pokretanje motora zauvijek nije dobra ideja. Lagano
otpustite maticu na mlaznici tri (možda pola okretaja) i zamotajte krpu oko nje. Pokrenemo nekoliko
sekundi, izvadimo krpu i provjerimo je li vlažna od goriva; ako ne, pomakni malo više. Zakrenite maticu
natrag. Ponovite ovaj postupak s mlaznicom 2.
which you can get close to with a crows-foot wrench and a torque wrench, but if you don’ t have one, just
go easy on it. When the injector-side nuts are torqued, do the same for the pump-side nuts. Reinstall the
return line from the pump to the last injector, and make sure that all lines and electrical connections are
clipped back in where they’re supposed to be. Install the two plastic clips on the two pairs of fuel lines.

Now to start the engine. Some fuel has drained out of the system, so you need to get fuel to the injectors
ASAP. Just cranking the engine forever is not a good idea. Slightly loosen the nut on injector three
(maybe half a turn) and wrap a rag around it. Crank for a few seconds, remove the rag, and make sure that
it’s wet with fuel; if not, crank a little more. Torque the nut back down to spec. Repeat this process with
injector two. An alternate method is to remove and install two injectors at a time (2&3 and then 1&4 is the
recommended procedure), and run the engine until the idle stabilizes after the first pair is replaced. This
gives the engine two working injectors right from the get-go when starting the engine each time. Which is
better? All-at-once requires less wrenching on the engine, two-at-a-time ensures an easy startup. The
choice is yours.

Now, start the engine. It shouldn’t take very much cranking for it to start. It will shudder and stutter for a
bit as fuel gets to the other two injectors. Wait for the idle to settle out and check the engine bay. Make
sure there isn’t fuel spraying everywhere and make a final check to make sure you didn’t forget to hook
anything up or secure anything properly.

ECU Adjustments
There are two ECU adjustments relating to fuel and air delivery that are relevant when changing to larger
injectors: idle injection quantity and EGR adjustment. Adjustment details are lifted blatantly from the TDI
FAQ at Fred’s (http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ)… thanks to the folks that put that together. Both of
these adjustments require a VagCom (http://www.ross-tech.com) or VAG scan-tool. You might also want
to check injection timing while you’re at it.

Idle Injection Quantity: Larger nozzles will deliver more fuel than the ECU thinks that it’s delivering.
By changing the idle injection quantity (which is sort of a misnomer), you’re recalibrating some constants
in the ECU relating to fuel delivery which results in better idle speed control and, depending on the state of
your particular engine, less smoke.

With your engine idling and warm (very important!) and all accessories off, hook up your VagCom and go
to 01 – Engine. Login using 12233. Go to “Adaptation” and select Block 1. The adaptation value should
be at a default of 32768, and you should see a field indicating the amount of fuel being injected in mg/R.
It’s a good idea to get the injected quantity in the range 3.0 – 5.0 mg/R. Modify the adaptation value by
100 at a time and press “Test” to see what happens to the injected quantity. To make the injected quantity
go up, you reduce the adaptation value by 100. Play with this until you get in the range, and hit “Save”. If
you can’t get within the range, get as close as possible (there is a minimum and maximum adaptation
value), and as long as your engine runs OK, don’t worry about it.

ECU prilagodbe Postoje dvije prilagodbe ECU-a koje se odnose na isporuku goriva i zraka koje
su relevantne pri mijenjanju u veće mlaznice: količina ubrizgavanja i prilagodba EGR-a.
Pojedinosti prilagodbe izražene su iz TDI FAQ-a na Fredu (http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ)...
zahvaljujući ljudima koji to čine zajedno. Obje ove prilagodbe zahtijevaju VagCom
(http://www.ross-tech.com) ili VAG alat za skeniranje. Možda želite provjeriti vrijeme ubrizgavanja
dok ste na njemu. Količina ubrizgavanja u praznom hodu: Veće mlaznice će isporučiti više goriva
nego što ECU smatra da isporučuje. Promjenom količine ubrizgavanja u praznom hodu (koja je
vrsta pogrešnog naziva) ponovno bilježite neke konstante ECU-a koji se odnose na isporuku
goriva što rezultira boljom kontrolom broja okretaja u praznom hodu i, ovisno o stanju vašeg
stroja, manje dimova. Uz motor u praznom hodu i toplu (vrlo važnu!) I sve dodatke, spojite
VagCom i idite na 01 - motor. Prijavite se koristeći 12233. Idite na "Prilagodba" i odaberite
Blokiraj 1. Vrijednost prilagodbe trebala bi biti zadana od 32768, a trebali biste vidjeti polje koje
označava količinu goriva koja se ubrizgava u mg / R. Dobro je dobiti injektiranu količinu u
rasponu 3,0 - 5,0 mg / R. Izmijenite vrijednost prilagodbe za 100 istovremeno i pritisnite "Test"
kako biste vidjeli što se događa s ubrizganom količinom. Da biste povećali količinu ubrizgavanja,
 smanjite vrijednost prilagodbe za 100. Igrajte s tim dok ne dobijete u rasponu i pritisnite "Spremi".
Ako ne možete doći do dometa, približite se što je moguće bliže (postoji minimalna i maksimalna
vrijednost prilagodbe) i sve dok motor radi u redu, ne brinite o tome.

EGR Adjustment: At idle and part-load situations, the EGR system recycles some of the exhaust gas into
the intake. This reduces NOx emissions. It’s possible to reduce the amount of EGR so that there is less
exhaust recirculated and more fresh air. More air is good, because your larger nozzles mean more fuel!
(Note: this is a good idea even for stock engines, since less EGR means less soot to gunk up the intake…
do a search for “manifold clogging” on Fred’s for details if you’re not familiar with the problem.)

With your engine idling and warm (very important!) and all accessories off, hook up your VagCom and go
to 01 – Engine. Login using 12233. Go to “Adaptation” and select Block 3. Give the throttle a quick
punch to the floor (if the car idles too long the EGR system turns off… this turns it back on.) The default
adaptation should be 32768, and the screen should indicate an actual flow rate of around 250 mg/R. Enter
33768 as the new value, hit “Test”, and the flow rate should increase. Hit “Save” and you’re done.

Ugađanje EGR-a: Kod situacija u praznom hodu i opterećenja, sustav EGR-a reciklira dio ispušnih
plinova u unos. Time se smanjuje emisija NOx. Moguće je smanjiti količinu EGR-a tako da se manje
recirkulira ispušnih plinova i više svježeg zraka. Više zraka je dobro, jer vaše veće mlaznice znače više
goriva! (Napomena: ovo je dobra ideja čak i za zalihe motora, budući da manje EGR znači manje čađe
kako bi izbacili unos ... potražite "Frederova višenamjenska začepljenja" za detalje ako niste upoznati s
problemom.)

Uz motor u praznom hodu i toplu (vrlo važnu!) I sve dodatke, spojite VagCom i idite na 01 - motor.
Prijavite se pomoću 12233. Idite na "Prilagodba" i odaberite Blok 3. Dajte brzini prigušivač na pod (ako
automobil prestane pušiti predugo da se sustav EGR isključi ... ovo ga ponovno uključuje.) Zadana
prilagodba trebala bi biti 32768, i zaslon bi trebao pokazivati stvarni protok od oko 250 mg / R. Unesite
33768 kao novu vrijednost, pritisnite "Test" i brzina protoka treba povećati. Pritisnite "Spremi" i gotovi
ste.
Legal note: This is an emissions control device, so some of you are saying “heeey… are we supposed to be
messing with this?” Well, the shop manual states that acceptable idle flow rates of up to 370 mg/R are
acceptable. So, if you adjust the flow rate to be no more than 370 mg/R, you’re within factory specs, and
no laws are being broken.