Dyeing

Trischel Fabrics
Dyeing

Recipe development based on

customer requirement

Colour lab Provide lab dips

Washing

Test for colour fastness Chlorine

Perspiration

17 machines 20kg
Dye House

45kg
Beam dyeing Nylon is mostly dyed
80kg

The weight ranges from 20kg to 100kg

750kg

200kg

375kg
13 machines
750kg

Polyester dyeing only however,

Jet dyeing 35kg
nylon also can be dyed

80kg
The weight ranges from 35kg to
500kg
250kg

500kg

❖ The main dye methods are as follows.

▪ Acid dye (Nylon and Elastane)
✓ The acid dye heats up to 98℃.
✓ The acid breaks the NH2 of Nylon to NH + ions.
✓ The NH + ions and the (-) of the dye reacts to form the bond.
✓ It uses a leveler in acid dye to level the dye.
▪ Reactive dye (Cotton, Viscose, Reyon)/ (Nylon and Elastane)
✓ It uses a dye and a fabric leveler.
✓ The reactive dye heats up to 80℃.
✓ Calcium chloride is added to the dye.
 ▪ Disperse dye (Polyester)
✓ A dispersion agent is used to evenly spread the dye where the dispersion agent
has a head and a tail which forms a Van der Waal bond with the dye.
✓ The amorphous region expands under the temperature and the dye particles are
trapped inside the fiber when cooled.
▪ Direct dye (Cotton and Viscose)
▪ Vet dye Not used at Trischel
▪ Sulphur dye
❖ The leveler is used in dyeing to level the dyeing process.
▪ It uses a dye leveler to level the dye and a fabric leveler to level the fabric.
▪ The leveler has a head and a tail.
▪ The dye leveler forms a Van der Waal bond with the dye whereas the fabric leveler
forms a Van der Waal bond with the fabric.
▪ As the temperature increases, the leveler is gradually removed from the dye and the
fabric allowing an even dyeing process.
❖ The main machine parameters are as follows.
▪ Pump speed ▪ Differential speed
▪ Winch speed
❖ The dyeing defects are as follows.
▪ Off shape
✓ When the dye doesn’t bond with the fabric or the dye bonds too much with the
fabric.
✓ If the chemical is weak or chemical is too strong.
✓ If the temperature drops or temperature is increased not according to the scale.
❖ Once the knitting is done, the fabric is stored in the greige warehouse and scouring process
is carried out where the fabric is mixed with solvents to remove impurities and then dry it.
❖ Then, the presetting process is done to straighten the structure of the fabric by heating the
fabric from 190℃ to 210℃ so that it will set the fabric to carry out the dyeing process.
❖ Then, the fabric is dyed using the beam dyeing process or the jet dyeing process once the
weekly dyeing plan is released on Tuesdays from the planning department.
▪ Develop a priority list and as per the priority, winding is carried out for beam dyeing
on Tuesday itself.
▪ As per the plan on Wednesday, the dyeing is carried out for the wound fabrics and
start winding fabrics that should be dyed the next day.
Beam Dyeing

❖ Beam dyeing is carried out for sensitive fabrics, therefore, only nylon is beam dyed.
❖ The beam dyeing machine has two types and they are as follows.
▪ Fully flooded
✓ The machine is fully filled with water.
✓ When chemicals are added, a side tank is used to hold the excess fluid.
✓ A pump is used to circulate the fluid.
▪ Air packed
✓ An extra tank is available on top of the machine.
✓ The tank at the bottom is fully filled and the tank on top is filled up to a certain
extent.
❖ Once the fabric is received in the “A” frame after presetting, the fabric is wound onto the
beam using the beam winding machine and the weight is recorded.
▪ First, the beam is washed using hydroacoustic to remove the colour of the dye
particles.
▪ Then, 5 cotton layers are wound onto the beam before the fabric is wounded to prevent
the colour particles from the previous dyeing to stain to the fabric and the beam is
made of holes, therefore, the hole mark can appear on the fabric.
▪ Next, the nylon is wound onto the beam and cover it with a 100% polyester layer to
prevent the movement of the fabric as the polyester is not stretchable.
❖ The winder then handover the fabric beam to the dyeing department along with the batch
ticket where the ticket consists of the following details.
▪ Weight ▪ Yarn type ▪ Beam number

Based on the batch ticket and the recipe used earlier for dyeing refereeing the master
recipe (If this is a 1st bulk, the details are obtained from the lab), the program is
constructed for fabric dyeing. This is known as the recipe writing.
The recipe writer creates a list of chemicals that are required for the dyeing process
and handover to the chemical section.
During the dyeing process, the following documents are created and filed.
➢ Batch ticket – Planning
➢ Batch recipe – Recipe writer
➢ Sample cord – Recipe writer
➢ Beam loading and pH recording format – Beam dyeing machine operator
 The operators of the chemical section obtain chemicals based on the recipe and keeps
them near the relevant machine.
The recipe writer creates 3 copies of the recipe.
➢ 1 for the file.
➢ 1 to select the chemicals.
➢ 1 for machine operator.
❖ Then, the fabric is loaded into the machine.
❖ Fill the machine with water where the total capacity of the machine must be filled.
❖ Add the chemicals to reduce the hardness of water.
❖ Add leveling agents for the fabric and the dye for leveling.
❖ Similarly, add anti-foaming agents to eliminate the foam effect inside the machine and add
Wiking agents to enhance the water absorption.
❖ Add acid donor agents if the dye amount is low to donate the H + ions when the temperature
is increased and to bring down the pH level to 4.5 to 3.5 at 98℃ and add acetic acid if the
dye amount is high to control the pH level.
❖ Add the dye.
Note: The dye profile:
▪ Any dye colour is developed using red, blue, and yellow colours.
▪ A dye combination is used to get the exact colour combination which was
identified during the lab dip stage.
✓ Black colour : It is created using 4 dyes.
✓ Other colours : It is created using 3 dyes.
❖ Heat the water.
▪ Nylon dyes at 98℃
Note: The fabric NH2 (amine) forms NH + ions when reacting with the acid, dye has a (-)
ion, therefore, it reacts with the NH + ions and the dye forms the bond
❖ Then, the fabric is cooled and wash it and then, using a solvent agent fix the unfixed dye
particles.
 ❖ Finally, the fixing process/ Syntan process is carried out where a coating is applied to the
fabric to secure the bond with dye particles and to improve the colour fastness and the
following functions will also be checked.
▪ Perspiration ▪ Colour change
▪ Chlorine ▪ Colour staining
▪ Water
❖ The beam dyeing material and information flow are as follows.

Get the fabric from the

finishing area after
presetting and the
following details
Roll preparation and the • “A” frame Get the cotton from the Get the boil out beam
plan as per the greige • Batch cotton storage • Cleanliness
warehouse • Quality • Cotton width • Appearance
• Width • Beam type
• Weight
• GSM
• Preset graph

Inspecting the wound

fabric Beam winding after
•Fabric width considering the following
•Fabric height factors
•Beam number • Density
Beam preparation •No. of cotton layers Store the fabrics • Width
•No. of polyester layers • Tension
•Beam cleanliness • No. of layers
•Beam alignment • Machine setting
•Beam density
•Weight

Inspection after Dyeing the fabric after

preparation considering the following
factors
• Plate size Inspection after dyeing Syntan fixing process
• Inside plate • Dye machine type
• Colour • Steam (Pressure)
• Flange appearance • Dye type and weight
• Appearance • Water
• Flange tightness • Chemical (Weight,
appearance, percentage) • Chemical
• Appearance of the beam
• Water (Colour, pH level)
• Dummy
• Pressure and
• Size of the dummy
temperature

Unloading the fabric Inspection

Send the fabric to the • Appearance • Colour

finishing area • Defects • Appearance
• Beam colour
Jet Dyeing

❖ Jet dyeing is carried for polyester and nylon fabrics.

❖ The jet dyeing machines are similarly of two types.
▪ Over flow
✓ 1:15 MLR (Material to Liquor Ratio)
✓ 1:25 MLR
▪ Soft flow
✓ 1:8 MLR
✓ 1:12 MLR
❖ The jet dyeing is carried out after the water is filled into the machine based on the minimum
requirement of the machine and the recipe.
❖ The single jersey weft knitted fabric’s scouring is carried out in the jet beam itself at 80℃
for 20 miniutes without going for a separate scouring because there is a big curl on the
fabric which makes scouring process difficult.
❖ The following are the chemicals used during the jet dyeing scouring.
▪ SERA FILL SBS: It is used to dissolve the silicon oils.
▪ Soda Ash: It is used to create a base medium to increase the pH level since the
polyester fabric has 12% spandex which has oil.
❖ Based on the recipe, the following chemicals are added.
▪ Add Anti-foaming agents.
▪ Add Wiking agents.
▪ Add a chemical to reduce the hardness.
▪ Add acid donor if the dye amount is low.
▪ Add acetic acid if the dye amount is high to neutralize the solution and to bring down
the pH level to 7.
▪ Add Albafluid C as a lubricant to prevent the crease marks appearing on the fabric.
▪ Add Fiber Protection RPY as an anti-yellowing agent and to protect the fabric.
▪ Add SERA GAL PLP as a leveler.
▪ Add SERA Spersh MIS for dispersing.
▪ Add SERA CON PNR as an anti-reducing agent.
✓ Dye molecules breakdown and the Diniy XF range of the anti-reducing agent
oxidizes at 130℃
✓ The PNR chemical protects the dye by being oxidized instead of the dye.
 ▪ Add Lycol POD which is an oligomer control the product where it removes the
oligomers on the yarn.
✓ During the yarn production stage, there is a possibility that oligomers form on top
of the yarn.
• An oligomer is a molecule made up of limited number of monomers.
• A polymer is a molecule where the structure consists of repeating units.
✓ When dyeing, if the oligomers are present, they appear as different coloured dots
on the fabric.
✓ Lycol POD is the chemical used to remove the oligomers from the fabric before
it is dyed.
▪ Add the dye.
❖ A winch system is used to circulate the fabric around the machine.
❖ Heat up to the required temperature for dyeing.
▪ Polyester dyes at 130℃ to 135℃ (light colours to dark colours) and separates the
fiber.
✓ The amorphous region
• It is larger than the crystalline region.
• The dye molecule of polyester dye goes into the amorphous region when
the fabric is cooled and the dye particle goes inside the fiber.
✓ The crystalline region
• It helps to absorb the sweat and perspiration.
❖ Cool down and add the reduction clearing agent to wash off the unfixed dyes and to increase
the colour fastness.
❖ Use the de-twist machine to remove the twists in the fabric and to get back to the roll form.
❖ The fabric is looped and sent to the finishing area.
❖ The jet dyeing material and information flow are as follows.

Inspection after presetting

Planning • Quality
• Trolley number
• Bach number
Presetting the fabric • Weight
• Roll number
• Batch number
• “A” frame number
• Width
• GSM

Inspection after preparation

• Quality
Check the availability of the dye • Weight Fabric preparation
• Width
• GSM

Dyeing
• Dye profile
Create the dyeing recipe Inspection after dyeing
• Dye machine type
• Colour • Dye type and weight • Colour
• Dye stuff • Chemical(Weight, appearance, • Appearance
• Chemical percentage)
• Weight • Water (Colour, pH level)
• Pressure and temperature

Unloading the fabric

Inspection After treatment for the fabric
• Appearance
• Colour • Steam (Pressure)
(Crease, chemical dots, etc.)
• Appearance • Water
• Trolley number
• Chemical
• Colour

Send the fabric to the finishing

area