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Denim Garment Quality Control

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Evaluate, verify and confirm it by sending on site your outsourced Asian based quality
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Quality Standard for Garments

For every business get increased sales and better name amongst
consumers and fellow companies, it is important to maintain your quality
standard level.

In the garment industry is not different, and quality control is practiced right
from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the final stage of finished
garment.

For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of

quality and standard s of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness,
surface designs and the final finished garment products.

However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer
segments and the retail outlets. There are a number of factors on which
quality fitness of garment industry is based such as performance, reliability,
durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment.
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What Quality Means for Garments?

Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost. The
national regulatory quality certification, or international quality programs like ISO
9000, series lay down the broad quality parameters based on which companies
maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel industry.

In overall, here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration
for garment manufacturing for export basis:
• Overall look
• Right formation.
• Feel and fall.
• Physical properties.
• Color fastness.
• Finishing properties
• Presentation of the final produced garment.
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Main Garments Defects

Based on all fabric properties requirements, the main defects for garments may
be classified and clustered as listed bellow:

STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK
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This can be considered the basic procedure for any kind of

STITCHING garment, and so may cause several types of defects.

PATTERN Bellow the key elements to be checked :

SPREADING • Open seams

• Stitching Defects (skipped, uneven, staggered, Improperly)
MARKING
• Needle damage
CUTTING • Thread breaks
• Same color garment, but usage of different color threads
COLOUR
• Miss out of stitches in between,
OVERALL LOOK • Creasing of the garment
• Erroneous thread tension
• Raw edges.

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Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting:

STITCHING
Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam
PATTERN (ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam)
resulting in stitch failure.

SPREADING Minimizing Effects:

• Use a higher performance Perma Core or D-Core thread, that has greater
MARKING
resistance to chemical degradation.
• Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut.
CUTTING
• Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch

COLOUR seam on denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40%

relationship of Needle thread to looper thread in the Seam.
OVERALL LOOK • Use needles with the correct needle point.
• Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle
Cuts are occurring frequently.

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Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting:

STITCHING
Special Cares:
PATTERN • It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim
Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes.
SPREADING
• To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water
MARKING
temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts
CUTTING and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.

COLOUR • Make sure the garments are being rinsed properly to neutralize the
chemicals in thefabric.
OVERALL LOOK
• Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure
they are correct so that the best possible garment quality can be
achieved.

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SKIPPED STITCHES:
STITCHING
Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle
misses the looper loop. Skips are usually found where one seam crosses
PATTERN another seam and most of the time occurs right before or right after the
heavy thickness.
SPREADING Minimizing Effects:
• Use core spun thread.
MARKING
• Use minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch.
• Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging.
CUTTING
• Training sewing operators NOT to stop on the thickness.

COLOUR • Make sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling.

• Make sure the machine is not back feeding.
OVERALL LOOK

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Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim:

STITCHING
Is where the thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the
warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric.
PATTERN

SPREADING Minimizing Effects:

• Use a heavier thread size on topstitching.

MARKING • Go to a longer stitch length (from 8 to 6 spi).

• Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the
CUTTING thread sits on top of the fabric rather than burying in the fabric
on seams sewn in the warp.
COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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Wavy Seams on Stretch Denim:

STITCHING
Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching
as it was sewn or during subsequent laundering and handling operations.
PATTERN
Minimizing Effects:
SPREADING • Use minimum presser foot pressure
• Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not
MARKING
stretch the fabric as they are making the seam.

CUTTING • Where, available, use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of
the fabric.
COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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RAGGED / INCONSISTENT EDGE

STITCHING
Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside
the stitch.
PATTERN

SPREADING Minimizing Effects:

• Make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and changed
MARKING often;
• The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch
CUTTING tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width
bite.
COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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Restitched Seams
STITCHING
Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, the
seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Usually caused by
PATTERN thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing or broken stitches during a
subsequent treatment of the finished product(I.e., stone washing)..
SPREADING
Minimizing Effects:
MARKING • Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher
performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions.
CUTTING • Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments;
• Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for
COLOUR
the fabric and sewing operation;

OVERALL LOOK • Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.

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UNRAVELING SEAMS:
STITCHING
Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has
been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam failure
PATTERN unless the seam is Re stitched.

SPREADING Minimizing Effects:

• Use a high performance Parma Core or D-Core thread that will
MARKING minimize broken stitches and skipped stitches;
• Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments;
CUTTING
• Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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The pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are
STITCHING traced onto fabric before being cut out and assemble. Any defect
on that is very critical, because will compromise all the garment.
PATTERN
Main issues most probable to occur:
SPREADING • Some parts of pattern are missing, , due for eg marker did not include
the correct number of parts.
MARKING

CUTTING • Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled,
resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts.
COLOUR
• Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all
OVERALL LOOK patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way fabric.

• Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.

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• Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line,
STITCHING perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.

PATTERN
• Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside
edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial
SPREADING
marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economizing

MARKING the fabric. Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble
unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced
CUTTING operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may be having worn out
edges.
COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreaded

STITCHING
in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension.

PATTERN This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying.

SPREADING Main Common Defects:

MARKING
• Uneven Spreading: Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or

CUTTING back edge of marker not catching all ply.

COLOUR • Narrow Material: Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker
width.
OVERALL LOOK
• Missed Sectional Breaks: Sectional marker breaks too long or too
short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.

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• Improper Tension: Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not
STITCHING to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.

PATTERN
• Mismatching Plaids: Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid
lines to run diagonally or bow.
SPREADING

MARKING • Misdirected Napping: Air pockets not removed. Napped material

reversed in spreading.
CUTTING
• Improper Matching of Face of Material: Not spread face down, face up
COLOUR or face to face as required.

OVERALL LOOK
Some critical factors to be checked in order to prevent this defects
listed in a quality control inspection are: Ply alignment; Ply
tension/slackness; Bowing ; Splicing; Grain-line; Shade variation; Selvedge
alignment & tightness; Fabric width; Static electricity down, face up or face to
face as required. 17
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STITCHING

PATTERN

SPREADING

MARKING

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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Marker markings are used for the purpose of cutting the patterns,
STITCHING and due wrong adjustments or measures, it may cause several
types of issues.
PATTERN
Main Common Defects:
SPREADING
• Shaded Parts: All component pans not included in same section.
• Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or
MARKING
pleating.

CUTTING • Not Marked by Directional Lines: Bias will not lit together, causing
twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component
COLOUR parts.
• Skimpy marking: Marker did not use outside perimeter of
OVERALL LOOK pattern.Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.
• Notches and Punch Marks: Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.

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• Marker Too Wide: Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments
STITCHING or requiring results.
• Marker Too Narrow: Results In wasted material.
PATTERN
• Mismatched Plaids Marker did not block component parts to match.
SPREADING
• Misdirected Napping: Patterns not marked in same direction and

MARKING napped fabrics.

CUTTING

COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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Minimizing Effects:
STITCHING
•It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker.
PATTERN •In marker labeling or coding of pattern should be checked
•Pattern direction should be checked.
SPREADING •The entire pattern are sated correctly.
•Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered during
MARKING marker making.
•During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate.
CUTTING
•During marker making fabric length and width should be considered.
•Marker width
COLOUR
•Notches & drill marks

OVERALL LOOK •Knife clearance

•Checks and stripes (mittering)
•Not enough knife clearance freedom.
•Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.

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Special Cares:
STITCHING
Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking
PATTERN results in components being sewn together with puckering and
pleating.
SPREADING When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of
the lay get cut with bits missing.
MARKING
Failure to follow the marker lines results in distorted garment
CUTTING parts.

Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is
COLOUR allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high aspread.

OVERALL LOOK Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow ,angled,
omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric .

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Cutting is an important process to produce the garment. Quality

STITCHING full fabric cutting reduce the wastage of material and make the
business profitable, but requires special attention to don´t affect
PATTERN the final product quality.

Main Defects:
SPREADING
• Marker or Perforator: Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both
MARKING edges causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting
dimensions of garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked,
CUTTING sufficiently to show distinct lines, notches and punch marks.
• Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members: Attached to, or
COLOUR
marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.

OVERALL LOOK • Drill Marks: Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong
side drill used.

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• Opening Slits: Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut
STITCHING through entire bundle or omitted.
• Improper Cutting: Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts.
PATTERN
Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.
• Notches: Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
SPREADING
• Oil Spots: Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.

MARKING • Improper Knife Sharpening: Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on

bundles.
CUTTING • Knife or Scissor Cut: Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous
piece.
COLOUR
Key parameter to be checked in a quality inspection in order to prevent
OVERALL LOOK
a cutting defect:
Frayed Edge; Fuzzy Edges; Ply to Play fusion; Single Edge Fusion; Notches
and Drillers; Cutting Equipment Precision.

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The type of machines and tools used on the cutting process, may have a key
STITCHING impact on the garment quality. So it is important to consider it, when choose
the best strategy for a quality control. Here is a list of cutting tools and
accessories often used on cutting department:
PATTERN
• Scissor
SPREADING • Straight Knife.
• Band Knife
MARKING
• Round Knife
• Computerized Knife Cutter.
CUTTING
• Computerized Laser Cutter.

COLOUR • Straight Knife (used in 100% cases for bulk cutting directly from lay
cutting)
OVERALL LOOK • Drill machine (specially used for position marking on the fabric that would
be cut for making garment)

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A color problem in the garment can impact directly on the

STITCHING
customer satisfaction, considering is the most “visible defect” and
PATTERN sometimes during the manufacturing process is not easily
detected.
SPREADING

MARKING Difference of the color from a final produced garment to the

sample shown, accessories of wrong color combination and
CUTTING mismatching of dye amongst the pieces are some of the possible
defects.
COLOUR

OVERALL LOOK

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Poor Colour fastness after Laundry

STITCHING
It is where the thread does not wash down consistently in the
PATTERN garment or changes to a different color altogether.

Minimizing Effects:
SPREADING
• Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.
MARKING • Use threads from the same thread supplier and do not mix threads in
agarment.
CUTTING • Always do preproduction testing on denim garments using new colors to
assure that they will meet your requirements.
COLOUR
• Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and color number

OVERALL LOOK

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Thread Discoloration After Laundry:

STITCHING It is the thread picks up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the
thread a dirty appearance. A common discoloration would be the
PATTERN pick-up of a greenish or turquoise tint.

Minimizing Effects:
SPREADING

MARKING • Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.

• Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low) during
CUTTING laundry.
• Use the proper chemicals & laundry cycles.
COLOUR • Use Denimcol PCC in wash or similar additive
• Do not overload washers with too many garments at one time.
OVERALL LOOK

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Considering the final stages of the manufacturing process, where

STITCHING all the final details is finished, there still a lot of different problems
that may occur.
PATTERN
Some defects in the Overall Look of a Garment:

SPREADING • Sizing defects: Wrong gradation of sizes or difference in measurement

of a garment part from other.
MARKING
• Broken or Loose parts: buttons, snaps, zipper,
• Exposed notches
CUTTING
• Misaligned buttons and holes
COLOUR • Dropped stitches
• Pulled / loose yarn
OVERALL LOOK • Zipper too short

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Twisted Legs
STITCHING
Is where the side seam twists around to the front of the pant and
PATTERN distorts the appearance of the jeans.

Minimizing Effects:
SPREADING
• Usually caused by poor operator handling. Instruct the sewing operator
MARKING to match the front and back properly so they come out the same length.
Sometimes notches are used to insure proper alignment. They should
CUTTING NOT trim off the front or back with scissors to make them come out the
same length.
COLOUR
• Make sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly

OVERALL LOOK operation.

• Check fabric quality and cutting for proper skewv Make sure the sewing
machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top and bottom
plies.

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Conclusion
As showed there is several kinds of defects in all manufacturing process
chain, so to ensure the esthetics, fit and functionality of your garment a
full end-to-end quality control is necessary.

The benefits is not limited in the customer satisfaction point of view, but
also reducing material waste and production costs. So all effort to
ensure the product quality will be valuable and important for steer the
brand recognition, a so critical aspect in terms of the business strategy
sustainability.

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How do we perform inspection for garments

Most of inspection for apparel focus on the workmanship of the item, on
the materials used to manufacture the product, on the sizing etc...

Some of the Solutions Available

Supplier Audit for garments Product Inspection for Apparel Product Testing for clothes

•Supplier Evaluation •Product Inspection •Purity test for Apparel

•ISO 9001 Audit •Incoming Material Inspection
•Social Audit •Initial Product Inspection

•During Production Inspection

•Pre-Shipment Inspection
•Sorting and Monitoring
•Defective Product Sorting
•Production Monitoring

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