Constructing my Lorica Squamata Adrian Wink

Step 1 The Backing.

I chose to use heavy linen canvas for the backing on my lorica. It is easy to tailor and far
easier to apply scales to than leather etc. It is also very hardwearing and light. For the
sewing, I used waxed linen thread.

The first step is to create a garment similar to a side-opening vest/waistcoat. I used a T-

shirt as a rough guide for cutting out the pattern. This may require some adjustment,
especially around the chest and collar area. Canvas is not that stretchy, so I had to cut a
V in the chest and sew-up the gap to get it to fit correctly. I strengthened this seam by
applying a second layer of canvas over the top. Remember that when you have applied
the scales, it will become quite rigid. Leave a large enough opening for your head,
because as scales are applied, a small amount of shrinkage in the backing occurs
during the stitching process. I also left a ‘V’ shaped slit at the back of the neck. You’ll see
why later. Leave the left side (shield side) of the garment open to allow for donning and
removing your armour.

Double stitching or a doubled layer of fabric is required over the shoulder area. This
strengthens the shoulder seam and adds to the comfort when worn.
‘V’ opening
(seamed) at back
Double
thickness

Tailored to fit
chest

FRONT BACK

Side opening
Step 2. Wiring the scales together.

Now the time consuming part! Wire together your scales into strips using brass or

bronze wire. (I used 1mm dia. Brass wire). Bend and cut ‘staple’ shapes
in bulk, as it saves a little time. Wire together strips long enough to extend
around the bottom edge of the backing garment. You may need to add or remove scales
from the ends of the strips during construction, tailoring it as you go.
Back view of scales.

Step 2. Stitching on the scale strips.

For the stitching thread I used artificial sinew thread. I

bought mine in a reel from;
‘The Identity Store’ Billing Park, Wellingborough Road,
Northampton Northamptonshire NN3 9BG England.

Email: steve@theidentitystore.co.uk

http://www.pearcetandy.com/products/index.htm

It is a lot stronger than linen thread and less prone to

being cut by the sharp edges of the holes in the scales
during movement.

Start by knotting the thread a couple of times and start

from the bottom hem of the backing garment. Keep going
until you reach the bottom of the arm holes.

Once you have enough scales to reach the bottom of the arm holes, you can start to
shorten the rows and sew them around the armholes. You may wish to draw a guideline
on the garment to show where the curved ‘collar’ area scales are to start. Once this level
is complete, you can edge the armholes and side opening with leather.
3. Applying the Edging Leather.

Cut strips 45/50mm wide vegetable-tanned leather, (I used 2.5mm thickness) long
enough to go around the armholes with a little to spare. Oil the leather well as this will
make the sewing much easier. Make holes in the leather 10/12mm apart on each edge
of the leather. For this I used a Dremel tool with a 1.5mm dia. Drill bit.

You will find that to stitch on the edging, you will have to also drill through some of the
scales to get an exact match with the holes in the leather. Mind your fingers!!
Sometimes the needles get stuck and have to be pulled through with pliers. Do this for
both armholes before applying the edging for the side opening.
The side opening is made slightly differently to the armhole edging in that extra leather is
left extending from the scale to allow for the leather fastening thong to pass through. You
can see from the following pictures. I used 65mm wide leather for the side edging.
Just leather

Punched hole for

fastening thong.

The bottom edge was cut to shape and folded under and stitched in to form a rolled end.
5. The curved collar section.

Once the edging of the armholes and side opening was completed, I could then proceed
with attaching the curving collar rows of scales. These rows get more curved as they get
nearer to the collar opening. With the scales I used (25mm x 35mm) the holes were
becoming covered as the rows got smaller, so I ended up trimming the corners of the
scales to allow for the stitching. You can see this in the photo.. The closer to the
opening, the more metal had to be snipped off. Use tin snips.

Once you have reached the desired collar height on your backing garment, you are
ready to edge the collar and back V opening with leather. Using the same method for the
collar as you did for the armholes, I didn’t need to drill any scales for the collar edging,
as the holes were pretty much in line for an even stitch.

You will find that the lorica is rather stiff around the collar section, this is why I left a V cut
in the back. It will allow you to put on your armour much easier. You will see from the
picture below, that I edged the sides of the V cut, and to strengthen the whole thing, I
applied a brass decorative plate (like a belt plate) with rivets. This stops any splitting of
the garment at this point. This part I finished off with a simple wooden toggle and loop
fastener. See next page.
6. The finished article

Once I had completed the main body of the lorica, I set about adding pteruges. Starting
with the ‘skirt’ I measured and cut (from the same weight leather as the edging) a single
section, long enough and wide enough to do it in one go. I cut the strips 55mm wide,
leaving a solid section at the top rather like a comb. First, oil the leather. I then made
holes in the top and bottom of the uncut portion to match-up with the holes on the
scales. Lifting the scales, I then stitched on the pteruges. Two or more layers can be
made this way. The pattern is like this…
I hope this document has been useful in some small way
Have fun!
Adrian.