PAPAYA FARMING

LAND PREPARATION AND PLANTING

Land preparation for papaya orchard is similar to other upland crops. First clear the fields; then plow and
harrow alternately about 2 to 3 times to kill weeds and provide good internal drainage. The distance of
planting papaya ranges from 2 to 3 meters depending on the variety.

Papaya plants are usually planted by direct seedling in the field. Place 5 or more seeds in each hole; then
cover with ¼ inch of soil. When fresh seeds are used, seeds will germinate in 10 to 14 days after planting.
Seed germination is better and faster if the gelatinous envelope (sarcotestae) surrounding the seed is
removed by means of the fingers. In some cases, seedlings are started in the nursery by sowing seeds in
seed plots or individual containers such as in cans or plastic bags. Sow 3 to 4 seeds per container. Use
sterilized soil to avoid nematode infestation and damping-off. Seedlings in the nursery should be grown
under full sunlight to produce vigorous and hardy seedlings. Care should be taken not to disturb the root
system. Constant watering is essential until plants are well-established. Seedlings are transplanted when
there are 3 to 4 leaves.

THINNING

Thin papaya seedlings in the field 4 to 6 weeks after emergence. Leave only 3 of the strongest seedlings
in each hole. Save plants that are spaced far enough from one another to allow minimum competition
for sunlight and nutrients.

The second and final thinning in the field should be done as soon as flowers appear. This is usually 4 to 6
months after seed germination. At this stage, leave one tree seedling per planting hole. In plantation
where female trees are grown, some pollinating trees of either male or hermaphrodite forms should be
preserved during the thinning process. Allow one male plant to grow for every 15 to 20 female trees for
pollination purposes.

CARE OF PAPAYA PLANTATION

Establishment of Windbreaks

Windbreaks are necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. Local materials used as windbreaks are
ipil-ipil and madre de cacao. The distance between windbreaks varies with location. Where winds blow
horizontally across the plantation, a common rule of thumb is to space windbreaks at a distance of 20-30
times the height of windbreak trees. Where winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary
to have windbreaks half as close.

In general, a good windbreak should be permeable, allowing some air to pass through.

Fertilization

Factors such as soil types, rainfall, locations, cultural practices, and age of plant influence fertilization
practices. Start fertilizing when seeds are planted or when seedlings are transplanted in the field. Mix a
handful (5-10gms.) of complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of the hole before
planting. As papaya seedlings grow larger, more fertilizer is applied.
Guide for papaya fertilization:

1. Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as plants are well-established and show new
growth.
2. Apply the same amount at intervals of six weeks until plants are one year old.
3. Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate per plant every three months.
4. Apply 450 grams superphosphate per plant at the start of rainy season every year.
5. In potassium-deficient soils, complete fertilizer with ratios 2:1:2 or 2:1:3 is recommended.

Weed Control

Weeds can be controlled by mechanical and chemical means. Hand-weed when papaya plants are less
than 2- ½ meter high. Always keep one meter area around the trunk free from weeds.

In large commercial papaya plantation, weed control is done by using herbicides. Spray pre-emergence
herbicide to hinder weed control for six months without much damage to plants. Spray post-emergence
herbicides such as Paraquat of Gramoxone plus a surfactant, at intervals between sprays 5-6 weeks.
Since papaya seedlings are very sensitive to chemical sprays, remove weeds close to the seedlings
manually.

Intercropping

Papaya can be grown as intercrop with coconuts, coffee, pineapple or assorted vegetables. Intercropping
with papaya increases total farm income and reduces weeding expenses. It is important to provide
fertilizer requirement of the intercrop.

Harvesting

Harvesting is a simple operation when papaya trees are short and the fruit can be reached by hands. The
first harvesting starts on the 7th to 8th month after planting. Pick all fruits showing a tinge of yellow at
apical end.

Place harvested fruits in picking bags, galvanized containers or pails. Allow fruits to mature more fully to
develop better flavor. However, this shortens shelf life and makes them more susceptible to fruit fly
infestation.

When papaya trees grow older, harvesting is done with the use of ladder. It is a tedious, time-consuming
and costly method of harvesting. Farmers in Cavite use a long pole to strike the apical end of the papaya
fruit to detach it from the tree while the fruit is caught by hand.

The papaya plant will keep on fruiting for many years but production declines rapidly as it grows older.
Old trees grow slower and produce lesser fruits. The productive life span of papaya plantations end after
3-1/2 years. The yield of well-managed papaya plantation is 35 to 40 tons of fruits per hectare which is
roughly 4 times the average yield (national) of 10 tons per hectare per year.
COMMON DISEASE AND PESTS OF PAPAYA AND THEIR CONTROL

1. Phytophtora blight - caused by Phytophtora palmivora. Common symptoms are found on stems
and fruits. Small, water-soaked, discolored spots may occur anywhere on the stem, around the
fruit or leaf scars, especially during fruit production. These infected areas enlarge and often
completely encircle stems of young trees. Green fruits are resistant to infection but can be
invaded through the wound or through the peduncle from the stem cankers. Infected mature
fruits that hand on the tree shrivel as disease progresses, turn dark brown, become mummified
and fall to the ground. Mummified fruits become reservoir for fungus and source of infection.

Control - remove rotting fruits from the tree as these serve as reservoir of spores from fungal
mass which is carried by rain or wind to healthy parts of plants. These spores may infect non-
injured leaf tissue, stems or fruit. Good drainage conditions reduce infection and use of
protectant spray such as copper sulfate or DithaneM-45 fungicides limit extent of injury.

2. Anthracnose - Affects both plants in the field and the fruits at harvested. First symptom is
usually a small, round, water-soaked area on ripening portion of the fruit. As fruit ripens, these
spots enlarge rapidly, forming circular, slightly sunken lesions; these enlarge up to 2 inches in
diameter as fruit matures. Fungus frequently produces large, light orange or pink masses of
spores in the center of the lesions. Sometimes spores are produced in concentric rings similar to
a bull's eye. In addition to producing this surface damage, the fungus also advances into the
fruit.

Occasionally, green portions of the papaya become affected with anthracnose. Disease first
appears as a small, water-soaked lesion. Soon after fungus penetrates the fruit, latex comes out
in sticky mound of horns. These lesions enlarge to ½ inch in diameter as fruit remains green and
eventually plant dies. Infected petioles may act as source of inoculum for infection of fruit.

Control - Control of this disease can be achieved only by means of a thorough spray program. In
rainy areas with high temperatures, spray Dithane M-45 at 7 to 10 days intervals. Copper-based
fungicides also provide good control.

3. Papaya mosaic - Initially, leaves develop rugged appearance. Undersides of leaves show thin,
irregular, dark-green lines etching the borders of cleared area along veins. Younger leaves of
crown are generally stunted and severely chlorotic with veins banding; transparent oily areas are
scattered over leaf or along leaf veins. In mature leaves, a chlorotic patter is light color between
veins accompanied by numerous small rinds ranging from transparent yellow to tan yellow. In
several affected areas, defoliation progresses upward until only a small tuft of leaves remains at
the crown. Stems of infected plants show pinpoint-sized, water-soaked spots may develop into
linear or concentric ring patterns, w/c become larger and more intense in color. This is generally
transmitted by green peach aphid, Myzuz persicae.

Control - The only satisfactory way of controlling mosaic is by destroying source of the virus. A
strict rouging program should also be followed:
 Spray all infected trees with insecticide to kill aphid carriers.
 Cut all infected trees and remove them from growing trees and other cucurbit plants.
 Avoid nearby cultivars of cucurbit plants.
 Control aphids with pesticides since they are disease-carriers.
Insect Pests:

Mites - They colonized on different parts of plants and feed on plant, causing premature leaf drop,
reduce tree vigor and produce external blemishes on fruit. They puncture plant tissues with their needle-
like mouthparts and feed on tissue juices. Some multiply rapidly throughout the year and cause
widespread damage in a very short time.

Control - Control mites by sulfur dustings. Spray Malathion at rates recommended by manufacturers.

Fruit fly - These infest papaya when fruits are allowed to ripen on the tree beyond recommended picking
stage. Fruits harvested in the mature green stage are not infested due to the milky substance they exude
when fruit is punctured.

Control - Sanitation is important. Destroy all dropped and pre-mature ripe fruits and suspected of being
infested to prevent larvae from developing into adults flies.

KALABASA PRODUCTS

NATA DE KALABASA

1. Wash the peels and core of kalabasa. Add three (3) parts water for every part of peel/core. Boil
for 15 minutes.
2. Strain, then for every 4 cups of strained liquid from boiled peels/core, add 2/3 cup sugar and 1 ¼
tsp. ammonium sulfate.
3. Heat for 15 minutes, and then cool. Add 1¼ tsp. acetic acid to adjust the acidity favorable to the
growth of the nata organism. Add 2/3 cup of nata starter (available at Bureau of Plant Industry)
for every 4 cups of kalabasa mixture.
4. Set aside for 10-15 days, and then harvest the nata product. Cook in sugar to come up with nata
dessert.

SQUASH FLOUR

1. Peel and wash the kalabasa thoroughly. Cut into segments, remove seed cavities. Slice into 1 cm
x 1 cm size, and then soak for about 3 hours in 0.01 percent sodium metabisulfite (1 g sodium
metabisulfite/1 L water) to preserve the food material.
2. Wash the kalabasa in running water and drain. Blanch for 15 minutes in warm water, drain.
3. Dry in oven between temperatures 50 – 55°C.
4. Grind the dried samples in coffee/mill grinder and sieve repeatedly. Pack in plastic bags or in a
tightly sealed jar for safe storage.

SQUASH CATSUP

1. Select mature squash, peel, remove the core and slice into 1″ x 1″ size and weight.
2. Boil 4 cups of kalabasa slices in 4 cups water for 10 minutes.
3. Drain the cooked squash, mash and place in wiring blender to come up with kalabasa puree.
 4. Boil the puree for two (2) minutes. Add all the catsup ingredients (¾ cup vinegar, ¾ cup sugar,
¾ tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. citric acid and 1/8 tsp. paprika).
5. Separate 1/8 tsp. cloves and ¼ tsp. onion, and put in spice bag. Immerse the bag in the puree
so that solid bits of spices will not mix with the catsup product.
6. Add 0.5 gm or a pinch of sodium benzoate and 0.1 gm or one-half pinch of gum xanthan.
7. Cook mixture for 30 minutes or until the catsup consistency is obtained under medium heating
(50 – 60°C). Add ¼ tsp. ketchup red for a desirable color of the product.

SQUASH VINEGAR

1. Wash the peels and core of kalabasa. Add three (3) parts water for every part of peel. Boil
for 15 minutes.
2. Strain. For every 4 cups of strained liquid from boiled peels/core, add 1 ¼ cups sugar.
3. Boil again for 20 minutes, cool. Transfer to a container then add one (1) tsp. yeast.
4. Ferment for seven (7) days until alcohol content is about eight (8) percent by volume.
5. Pour gently the alcoholic solution into another container so as not to disturb the sediment.
Add one (1) cup of vinegar starter (available at Bureau of Plant Industry) for every four (4)
cups of the solution for vinegar fermentation.
6. Set aside from 15-20 days, after which, determine the acidity. (This vinegar usually has
acidity between 6-7 percent as compared to commercial brands of 4 percent acidity).

SQUASH MAJA

Materials:
 2 cups boiled squash, mashed
 2 cups corn starch
 2 cups coconut milk
 1 big can evaporated milk
 3 cups coconut cream
 2 tablespoons kalamansi
 2 cups sugar
 1 teaspoon margarine

Procedure:
1. In a saucepan, combine all ingredients except margarine.
2. Mix well and allow boiling.
3. Stir lightly to prevent scorching.
4. Add margarine when mixture becomes thick and transparent.
5. Pour the mixture into desired mold.
6. Allow to cool. Refrigerate and serve cold.

Put “budbud” on top when served.

To prepare budbud: 1/3 cup sugar for every 1 cup coconut meal. Roast in caraway until golden brown.
 SQUASH CUCHINTA

Materials:
 1 cup mashed boiled squash
 3/4 cup brown sugar
 3/4 cup all purpose flour, shifted
 1 cup water
 1 teaspoon lye (dissolved)

Procedure:
1. Dissolve the sugar in water and boil, allow cooling.
2. Add the flour little by little.
3. Add the squash; keep on stirring until it becomes fine in texture.
4. Shift.
5. Add the lye, stir.
6. Put the mixture in molds, with allowance of a little space from the rim.
7. Cook in double boiler for 20 minutes.

SQUASH JELLY

Materials:
 1 cup mashed boiled squash
 1 cup mashed boiled gabi
 ½ cup white sugar
 1/3 cup condensed milk
 1/4 tsp.vanilla
 2 tbsp.butter
 1 tbsp.butter for lining molds

Procedure:
1. Sieve the squash and gabi until a fine paste is attained.
2. Mix them together with sugar.
3. Cook in low fire, continually stirring to prevent scorching.
4. When thick, add condensed milk and vanilla, keep on stirring until the desired consistency is
attained.
5. Add the butter; keep on stirring until the surface is smooth and glossy.
6. Line the inside walls of the molds with butter, then…
7. Put the mixture in the molds.
CALAMANSI JUICE CONCENTRATE

Ingredients:
 1 kilo calamansi
 refined white sugar
 water
Utensils:
 stainless steel strainer
 stainless steel bowls
 stainless steel knives
 plastic chopping board
 cheesecloth
 thermometer (dial type)
 stainless steel casserole
 measuring cups
 LPG with stove
 stainless steel ladle

Packaging Materials: sterilized bottles/jars

Procedure:
1. Slice calamansi at its topmost part. Avoid injuring the seeds to prevent bitter taste of the
product.
2. Squeeze. Strain juice using cheesecloth.
3. Measure/weigh the juice. Heat calamansi juice for 1 minute at 70°-80°C. Set aside.
4. Prepare syrup, 1 part sugar in ½ part water or 1:0.5 based on the weight of the juice. Boil syrup
(108°C or 226°F).
5. Strain syrup.
6. Cool syrup to 80°C then add calamansi juice. Mix.
7. Pour the mixture in sterilized bottles. Seal thoroughly.
8. Process in boiling water for 5 minutes at 70-80°C.
9. After processing, cool at room temperature. Label and store.

CALAMANSI JELLY

Ingredients:
 Calamansi seeds
 Water
 Refined sugar
 Calamansi juice

Utensils/Supplies:
 stainless knife
 chopping board
 colander
 stainless casserole
 saucepan
 cheesecloth
  basin/mixing bowl
 measuring cups/spoons
 stove
 ladle
 thermometer

Packaging Materials: bottles with new caps

Procedure:
1. Mix 1 part of calamansi seeds to 3 parts of water.
2. Drain the mixture into cheesecloth allowing the juice to pass completely.
3. Wash the seeds again with one part water. Drain the juice completely. Mix it to the first effluent.
4. Add sugar and calamansi juice (1 part pectin extract: ¾ part sugar and 1/10 part calamansi juice).
5. Boil to jellying point (108-110°C).
6. Remove foams and bubbles. Do not stir.
7. After cooking, pour hot into sterilized bottles.
8. Remove all bubbles at the top. Seal.

CALAMANSI FLAVORED CANDIES

Ingredients:
 10 tbsp Starch
 1 1/4 cup Water
 1 1/2 cup Sugar
 1/4 Glucose
 4 tbsp Calamansi juice
 1/8 tsp Citric acid
 1/4 tsp Food color
 1/4 tsp Calamansi oil

Utensils/Supplies:
 heavy saucepan
 stove
 ladle
 measuring spoons
 measuring cups
 trays, knife
 spatula, plastic bag
 refractometer

Procedure:
1. Mix cornstarch and water. Stir to dissolve.
2. Place the mixture in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil with continuous mixing.
3. Boil for 2 minutes.
4. Then add sugar and glucose. Stir to dissolve sugar and glucose.
5. Continue boiling until the solution reaches a soluble solid of 78-80%. This can be determined
with a refractometer.
6. Add food color if desired and calamansi juice with citric acid.
7. After boiling, add calamansi oil.
8. Pour the mixture into trays. Stand for 2 to 3 hours.
9. Cut into desired sizes and shape with a spatula. (If no spatula is available, use knife).
10. Roll in granulated sugar, strain to remove excess sugar.
11. Pack in plastic bag.