Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Craft Documentation Gota Patti
Craft Documentation Gota Patti
The term craft refers to a set of activities that involve skill, and dedication
of the apprentice to produce a desired object.
We would like to thanks Mr. Arindam Das, director, NIFT, Gandhinagar for
his constant support and guidance.
At the end we would like to thanks nayla village people who helped us alot
in our craft.
ABOUT NIFT
The Nayla village at Jaipur district of Rajasthan is famous for Gota Patti
works on ethnic costume and fabrics. This study is carried out to
determine the internal factor evaluation (IFE) and external factor
evaluation (EFE) by SWOT analysis of Nayla cluster. IFE and EFE matrix
enable to select the influence of key external and internal factors resulting
in weighted factor values for each set of variables.
ABOUT JAIPUR
Jaipur, the largest city and the capital of Rajasthan, is also referred to as
Pink City. Built by Sawai Jai Singh, this place was India's first planned city.
With spectacular hilltops and stunning fortresses, Jaipur is major tourist
attraction among both national and international tourists. This royal city
captivates travellers as it is known for its rich culture and tradition,
magnificent art and artefacts, and brilliant past. The serene temples, the
long standing forts and palaces, and beautiful havelis with royal touch to
them; add on to the glory of Jaipur. Wonderful landscapes, marvellous
flora and fauna, picturesque views; all together create a mesmerising view
of this place. Only forts and monuments aren't the attractions of this pink
city, the intricate handicraft items and exquisite jewellery also catch the
eyeballs of tourists.
This largest city of Rajasthan is also famous as the “Pink City”. It is
so because in 1876, the city was decorated with terracotta pink
colour in grand welcome of the Prince of Wales. Since then the name
has not only stuck, but has given the city a unique identity.
GOTTA PATI
Gota Patti work also known as “Lappe Ka Kaam or Gota Kinari Work ", the
most famous work of “Rajasthan" and origin of this craft. Gotapatti
traditionally worked on temple idols, cloths on offering prayer, on royal
outfits (Mughal Era). These outfits especially worn on auspicious days,
weddings.
The history dates back when the Mughal Emperor Humayun brought some
Persian craftsmen with him on his return to India between 1539 to 1554.
Since the Rajputs had healthy and diplomatic relations with the Mughals,
this resulted in the coalition of these two cultures which made a
remarkable transformation on the art and craft during that period. The
Rajputs patronised this new craft and invited royals from various parts of
the country to contribute in the new growing art that was developed. The
Gota work is believed to have originated as a result of the competition
between the royal households.
It is also believed that Gota might have originated as a low cost version of
the Danka work. Dankas are gold and silver sheets which are cut into
desired shapes and attached to the cloth using the stitches. Gota work is a
form of fabric ornamentation that is worn on religious or festive occasions
or during the wedding ceremonies. The colours used in Gota craft have its
own significance and connotation. Gold is associated with sun and
Goddess Laxmi and silver denotes moon and its light.
Apart from its use in the wearables, outstanding Gota work was done on
the home accessories and the decor done in the houses in that era. Door
fringes, platter cover, animal saddles and even for the costumes of the
deities it was decorated and adorned with Gota to beautify and add
richness to the glory of god.
During marriages and other family occasions Gota was put on the groom's
garland and also used on many other gift artefacts that were used to offer
and exchange as a tradition of the customs followed.
NAYLA VILLAGE
The work of Gota Patti started in Nayla in 1981. This work is a prime
source of employment in Nayla. 80% of the majority population is entirely
dependent on this work. People of all castes and religions reside here but
the majority of Hindus are engaged in the Gota Patti work. And the other
20% either work or own general store or are vegetable sellers, chai wala,
etc.
Aari-tari handmade work has been practiced for long in the village. Nayla
and its neighbouring villages are renowned for the Aari-tari work, they
work mainly on sarees.
The Gota patti and Zardozi cluster is predominantly spread within the
geographical yards including three other villages namely - Ranjipura
,Meenokabad and Harikishanpura. Many of the clusters are not included in
these villages but instead form a group of 5-6 family, also called Dhandi.
The human resources involved in the art are unskilled, semi-skilled and
skilled type.
Nayla artisans
1. Artisan- Bansi Dhar Yogi
Age- 40 years
His father was a haldari and his brother had his own general store in
nayla. He is married and have 2 daughters.
Bansi ji did his schooling till 10’th standard, and started working
during 1990s. Material cost of 1 saree takes ₹300 which is then sold
for ₹3000. His monthly income is around ₹15000 – ₹20000.
2. Artisan- Prahlad
Age-
Contact number- 774287558
His father does construction work and his brother does gota patti
work.
Material cost of one saree takes ₹500 and it sells for ₹5000
MATERIALS
1. Weaving
a. Resham
It is a shinny looking thread which is extracted from cocoon which is
known as Resham. These are colourful pure Reshamthreads which are
used in weaving Gota
.
b. Polyester
It is Resham mixed with plastic. It has more strength and it is long lasting
than Resham
c. Zari (Badla)
It is a metallic thread which has replaced pure Silver and Gold threads. It
is cheaper than pure Silver and Gold thread and it is morecolourful.
2. Gota Work
a. Gota Ribbon
b. Laces
These come in different designs, colours and sizes. It is mainly used for
the borders. To make the laces,ribbons are given the shape as per design
required and then stitched.
c. Gota Patti
In earlier days they were cut by the hands but now the punching
machines are available in different designs and sizes.
d. Zari Thread
The paste chalk powder and kerosene oil is used for tracing the designs or
motifs on the fabric.
f. maxobond: It’s a fabric glue used sticking the gota Patti on the fabric
before the embroidery is done on it.
TOOLS
1. Adda(wooden frame)
Craftsmen tuck the fabric on Adda (which is a wooden frame) for doing the
work.
Peetan is a type of hammer which is used to beat the work to set it.
4. Needle
It is used in embroidery work and also while tucking the fabric on Adda.
GOTA
Gota has harnessed within its weave the actual dream in occasions.
Venturing in the markets of Surat, Ajmer and Jaipur (in very small scale)
where these are produced. Gota has become the actual ubiquitous accent
of any royal dress. During Mughal and Rajput era gota were made of real
gold and silver. In routine the base metal is copper coated by silver or
gold. Presently, copper has been replaced by polyester film which is
metalized and coated as per requirements. This has result in better quality
at lower cost.
The ribbons are cut into desired lengths as per the need of the customers
and roll is made and tied.
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
The first step in preparing the loom is warping, where the zari is warped
on a
wheel like structure, locally called charkha. Nowadays, the charkha is
power
operated and requires the supervision of just one person whose only task
is to
switch the machine on and off or to fix the yarn if it breaks due to tension.
Once the korns is ready the next step is to pass the
threads through the phanni, rollers and dropper(needle).
Korns are arranged in window frame in numbers according to width i.e. 32
korns of zari for ½ width of gota ribbon.
The yarns from korns go through Phanni. Phanni are similar to combs in
that they have dents or slits, through which the thread is passed to
overcome the overlapping of yarns.
Basically there are two rollers, first is 5cm in diameter and second roller is
11cm.
Once this is done, the threads are passed through the Dropper. Dropper
are thin strips of metal with an eye in the center. The process of threading
the dropper is similar to the process of threading the needles. Every
individual thread must pass through the eye of the
dropper. The dropper drops down when the zari breaks at any stage which
rings a bell in machine so that the weaver can fix it again. Then through a
bigger, v- shaped phanni and a roller again before folding around final
charkha.
Once this process is complete, the loom is ready for weaving.
WEAVE
However, this process is not very time consuming as the widest gota
braid is not more than 3.5 inches. Since the looms are power operated, a
pencil shuttle, which has the resham weft, automatically moves on the
zari warp and the gota braid gets woven. Due to this, one weaver can
simultaneously operate two power-looms, since there is no manual
shuttling
involved. His main job is to keep a check on whether the machine is
functioning
properly or not. These machines are advanced, 6 different patterns of gota
can be weaved at same time. The charkhas are attached to another
window frame in the weaving machine. Each threads from charkha
(maybe it’s a set of 32 zari or its multiple) are adjusted through hands to
pass through a phanni, two sets of droppers and finally through Phawadi
which controls the warp yarns. And the resham (weft yarn) also called lock
threads which are arranged below, passes through chumbak and raj and
finally to the weave. Raj is controlled through a mechanism of wheels and
springs.
PROCESS
This shop has completed its sixty years and have a range of ethnic and
indo-western garments, the price may range from ₹5000 to lakhs
depending upon the design. They have even worked with film industry
and designed a garment for the actor Parineeti chopra in the movie shudh
desi romance.
This is a sixty years old shop and make ethnic garments, they even take
orders for customization, price ranges from ₹1200 to ₹20000 depending
upon the design.
Mahalaxmi Emporium
Owner- Subhash Chandra Agarwal
This shop has a lot of variation in gota patti and the price ranges from
₹2000 to lakhs depending upon the design, they usually have clients from
the royal families. Their sale is maximum in wedding season, they do not
export their garments as they already have high sales specially in metro
cities, and they have worked with Bollywood too.
Aari Tari
Since 1996
Aari tari is quite popular when it comes to gota patti work, unlike other
shops aari tari have designers working under them which makes the brand
unique, they even have fashion shows to promote their designs. The price
ranges from ₹2000 to ₹250000(increase in border increase in price).
They have both heavy and light work garments with complete hand
embroidery, and the most used motifs are floral motifs. They do not use
geometrical motifs.
They export their garments, keep experimenting with their fabrics and
they customise the garments too as per customer needs.
GOTA
Owner- Anubhav arora
They have more than 300 artisans working under them, they believe in
middle class customers as they visit again and again and show respect.
They used to have stores in San Francisco, South Africa and UK but had to
close them because of increase in export taxes.
MARKETTING
There isapproximate 3500 of people at Nayla cluster in which 2000
of them are men and rest are women. About 57% of the artisans
are male and rest 43% of them are female
Type of Job:
Permanent: 60 %,
Temporary: 40 % 5.
Skill Oriented Training:
Yes: 95 %, No: 5%
CHALLENGES:
Gotta Patti / Aari Tari cluster development project at Nayala, Jaipur
have Low wages ranging from Rs. 300 per day for 10 to 12 hours of
work. Gota Work is seasonal, and demand keeps changing from
season to season. The zardozi work has lower demand due to high
price and Design Limitations. The artisans produce garment with
obsolete design and no link to seasonal forecasts. Lack of
investment to set up their own business. Artisans face health
problems in the form of weak eyesight due to prolonged working
hours and increasing age. Weak eyesight limits the work tenure of
artisans up to 35 years only.
SWOT ANALYSIS
The SWOT matrix is a starting point of the stage two, which
confronts environmental threats and opportunities with internal
strength and weakness of a cluster. It’s one of the most useful tool
for defining company strategic action by analyzing company internal
capabilities and external environment for recognize opportunities
and threats (Comen&Romen 2000).
STRENGTHS
The Gota Patti ribbons are machine made, easily available due to
high demand in domestic market. These demands are met to need
through fully trained artisans who are easily available. Moreover
minimum electricity is consumed in this process. Flexibility in
working hours and work from home provisions to motivate
employees, its gender specific. Easily availability of raw materials
and other inputs.
WEAKNESSES
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
3. High cost of supply chain for National fairs and exhibitions in the
absence of retail outlets for direct selling.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LOCAL MARKET AND
DESIGNER
GARMENT USE
Earlier gota Patti work was worn by royalty, both men and women on
a daily basis but now it is worn only on special occasions.
Now it is usually worn by women as compared to males, while male
do wear gota work but very rarely (for example on their wedding
day).
Gota work is modified as per current demand and is used in a very
minimal way, now days it is even used in western garments and is
popular in international market too.
New Collection of Anita Dongre for the Bride of summer 2015. Fresh
pastels, light blues and her signature gota Patti work – she continues to
delight her core fan base.
Sophisticated blouses with a touch of gota embroidery caught my eye,
along with some regal jewellery.
Anita Dongre
Actress Yami Gautam will be walking the ramp as the showstopper for the event.
The three-day long Vogue Wedding Show will start from August 5 at the Taj
Palace Hotel in the national Capital. Talking about the the Vogue Wedding
Show 2016, Dongre said: “The Vogue Wedding show is on our annual
calendar to start the wedding season. It is the only time that prospective
brides can personally meet me. I look forward to interacting them.” And
according to her, in India, “couture is basically bridal couture”.
“Designers are getting more lavish with Indian craftsmanship, the
traditional weaves, gota Patti, zardozi and heirloom crafts,” she said.
Dongre feels “lehenga and sari are here to stay”, as designers keep
reinventing them.
Esha Gupta in Anita Dongre Saree
Esha Gupta attended Baba Siddique’s Iftar party wearing a yellow chiffon
saree that featured gota Patti border paired with an ivory gota Patti work
boat neck blouse by Anita Dongre. Wavy hair and jewelry by Anita Dongre
Pink City finished off her look. She looked nice!