Bahir Dar University

Eitex
Msc of Fashion Technology
Garment Production Management
Paper review I

Title: Study on production planning in sewing

section pertaining to UPS –case study for men’s
shirt.

By: Rukiya.N
Under guidance of: DR. K. Chandra

Bahir Dar
Date: 29 /05/20117G.C

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Table of Contents
Acknowledgement ................................................................................................. iii
Abstract ................................................................................................................. iv
1. Introduction ....................................................................................................... 1
2. Objective ............................................................................................................ 2
3. Methodology ..................................................................................................... 3
4. Discussion and Result ......................................................................................... 6
5. Conclusion ......................................................................................................... 8
6. References ......................................................................................................... 9

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List of figure and table
Fig 1. Design of sewing station ……………………………………………………………….3
Fig 2. Layout of UPS (for men shirt)………..…………………………………………………4

Table 1. comparative result between effective production planning through UPS and
conventional ……………………………...…………………………………………………….5

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Acknowledgement

I am very grateful to DR. K. Chandra, for giving me the opportunity to work with the title on
“Study on production planning in sewing section pertaining to UPS –case study for men’s shirt”
and for giving me the advice and support to achieving the desired targets of the paper and also to
which helped me to accomplished and achieving desired paper.

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Abstract

The production of small batches of a variety of components ultimately assembled as a wide

range of complex end products constitutes one of the most difficult problems in the field of
Production planning. Production planning is important aspect of the garment manufacturing
industry especially in sewing section. In the context of apparel manufacturing, A sewing plan
should lay down each stage of manufacture, in terms of what must be done, by whom and when.
It must be feasible. The Unit Production System (UPS) can be described as a mechanical system
and the essential feature of UPS is the unit of production is a single garment and not bundles; the
garment components are automatically transported from workstation to work station according to
a pre-determined sequence. Here we discuss on production planning in to sewing section
especially which is preferable for unit production system as a case study for short order quantity
and clearly describe how to allocate orders and operations in the line and how to follow the
process. We will also illustrate how to make a prototype of the system. This enables in
introducing a prototype of UPS with PLC & WID is developed in University of Macau at Macao.
PC links the PLCs and readers of the system through PC/PPI cable. The main function of PC is
to make command and plan in order to control actions processed in each sewer station. The
prototype includes fewer sewer stations made with PLCs.In the small quantity based apparel
industry this is highly essential. Computerized systems in this UPS automatically balance the
work between two work stations. And Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one
system but Planning needs to be effective every time. Thus effective planning to the modern
technology in sewing section helps in achieving good response to the fast – fashion world.

Keywords: Unit Production System, Production planning, fast-fashion, Prototype, PLC, WID,

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1. Introduction
The conventional methods of manufacturing for garments industries have been used for the past
20 years in Macao. In this system, the various components of garments were cut and tied up to
bundles in the cutting section and distributed to the sewing section. Disnature would transport
the bundles held in the cart to each sewer. After completed one process, the unfinished clothes
would be sent to the next sewer. It is necessary to have a greater space to place the cart and for
it’s operating in this system. Moreover, as there would be a lot of bundles existing, in recent
years, UPS (Unit Production System) with microprocessors began to be used in garments
industries. (Lou Ip Keong et al)

Unit Production System (UPS) can be considered as a mechanical system. The essential features
of this type of system are the unit of production is a single garment and not bundles, the garment
components are automatically transported from workstation to work station according to a pre-
determined sequence and depend on the production planning. Production Planning is to schedule
the operations of parts, in correct sequence, to particular production periods. It has the intention
of establishing reliable and realistic delivery dates and crate smooth work flow. Planning should
be done for each style due to product variation and variation of order quantity. Number of total
operations, manpower and machine requirement vary based on the style.

We are focusing on a high fashion garment manufacturer, where many different styles come in
every season for production. Which gets the lowest volume per order, which changes styles more
than other manufacturers, and which deals with more uncertainty in comparison to the other
types of garment. In summary the main complexities of fashion garment manufacturing are small
sized orders, frequently changing styles and less repetition in orders. When these problems are
examined holistically and In sewing section small order quantity production planning very
difficult and not effective but we can solve by applying UPS .this is an automation system,
planning system plus management system, and effective production method.

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2. Objective

The main objective to discuss how to prepare production planning in sewing section and how to
change product planning appropriate for short order quantity, when we use unit production
system in addition to illustrate how to make prototype of UPS through Programmable Logic
Controller, PCL and RFID.

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3. Methodology
A production planning defines when a style is going to be loaded to the line, how many pieces to
be expected (target) from the line and when order to be completed. Before starting any
production should be prepare production planning, busing PC and based on operation breakdown
and SMV. Short order quantity, it is require effective production planning. to set up production
planning should be make sure availability of raw material ,machine ,manpower and other
resources , it is help us to get effective planning .When we use UPS some equipments are require
such as:
PC or computer: The main function is to make planning and commands in order to
control actions processed in each sewer station PC links the PLCs and readers of the
system through PC/PPI cable. In addition PC also receiving and processing information
and data sent by each sewer station and RFID readers.
PC/PPI cable: it is type of cable connect through pc and reader to transfer commands
and information for each sewer station.
PLC CPU214: used for control the sewer station it means output and input signals.
RFID: The RF reader is made up of microprocessor AT89C2051, 75175 and RFID IC. It
can read and write the RFID chips that are inside the hanger without any contact.

In this sewing section designed 4 work station the #0 for full sleeve women’s shirt , #1 for
short sleeve women’s shirt ,#2 for full sleeve men’s shirt and the last one #3 for short sleeve
men’s shirt . In this cause one PLC can control two work station and each sewing station have
one RFID for write and read data in the situation of the station. Each sewing station has different
number of operator and machine according to the design of the shirt.

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 Fig 1. Design of sewing station
The operational principles of Unit Production System (UPS), for short order quantity; all the
components for one garment are loaded into a carrier at a workstation specially designed for this
purpose. The carrier itself is divided into sections, with each section having a quick-release
clamp and cut parts distribute for sewer according production planning and operation
breakdown. Sewers would complete their own jobs till the whole process finished, each sewer
station has a buffer zone, which can hold three clothes. When a buffer is full, other clothes will
not be permitted to enter except it is free again. In this situation, clothes will be circled
continuously in the main line.

PC links to PLCs and readers of the system through PC/PPI cable. It is help to make commands
in order to control actions processed in each sewer station. On the other hand, PC also in charge
of receiving and processing signals and data sent by each sewer station and each reader. That
means PC centralizes the whole operation of this system. Those jobs are done sent from the first
PLC; polling each sewer station and each reader sequentially; sending task command to each
sewer station and reading the status message from each sewer station; chips that are inside the
hanger without any contact processing the information gathered in the assigned orders and one
working cycle finished to await next synchronous signal to start a new working cycle.

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When the operator has completed work on one carrier, a push button at the side of the sewing
machine is pressed and this actuates a mechanism, which transports the carrier back to the main
line. As one carrier leaves the station, another is automatically fed in to take its place. When the
carrier leaves the station it is recorded on the data collection system, and then addressed to its
next destination.

Fig 2. Layout of UPS (for men’s shirt)

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4. Discussion and Result
Computerized Production planning have major advantages over the other entire manual and used
for the short order production of clothing. Most importantly, they provide for a clothing factory
with the capability to respond quickly to any style changes, which might occur. In the fast
moving fashion business, this is essential. Effective production planning is help to reduce
production time ,increase quality and reduce worker fatigue as well as UPS have many intangible
benefits such as a more orderly and controlled flow of work, and the ability via the control
computer of simulating the production situation . These intangibles are difficult to measure, but
in themselves make a very positive contribution to the overall viability of the unit.

 Minimization of manufacturing cost,

 Feeding the materials and parts at highest possible speed and in one direction without
any backtracking or overlapping flow of products/materials,
 Minimization of work transfer among the processes from acceptance of raw materials till
delivery of finished product with properly defined spaces for each process, and reducing
the bottlenecks to maintain a smooth flow of materials with a view to ensuring the right
products in right quantity of right quality.

Table 1 .comparative result between effective production planning through UPS and
conventional

Operation Name SMV SMV Manpower Manpower

N (UPS) (Conventional ) (UPS) (Conventional )
o
1 Collar &Body hanging 0.23 0.61
2 Collar attach 0.29 0.55 0.77 1.47
3 Collar band close 0.36 0.65 0.96 1.73
4 Side seam join 0.45 0.68 1.20 1.81
5 Side Seam Excess Cut 0.26 0.45 0.69 1.20
6 Sleeve Hem 0.62 0.75 1.65 2.00
7 Bottom Hem 0.48 0.65 1.28 1.73
8 Button Hole 0.41 0.62 1.09 1.65
9 Bar Tack 0.16 0.20 0.43 0.53
10 Shoulder Join & Top Stitch 0.83 0.93 1.00 1.00
11 Sleeve Attach 0.65 0.85 2.00 2.00
12 Arm Hole Outline 1.04 1.16 1.00 1.00
Total minutes 5.18 7.49 12.09 16.13

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From the above comparative study we have seen the following results, by applying effective
production planning through UPS, we can save 148 minutes per day and 42,624 minutes per
annum, through using this time we can produce 28 shirts per day and 8,229 shirts per annum. It
is indicated that daily productivity increase in 26%.

In addition can reduced number of man power, it means from 16.13 to 12.09, 4 man power
reduced per line. Currently sewing operator wage is 1300 birr therefore 5200 birr we can save
per month also 64,400 birr per annum.

Advantages of effective line planning and balancing

Line balancing and production planning are a pre-condition activity for sewing section; it has
some advantages through UPS.
Create smooth production flow.
Reduce production time.
It becomes possible to deliver goods at right time at the agreed quality for least costs.
Easily control sewing station and to change style.
Helps to compare the required machinery with the existing one and make a balance.
It also helps in the determination of labor requirement.
Reduces SMV.
Profit of a factory can be ensured by proper line balancing.
To ensures optimum production at the agreed quality.
It reduces faults in the finished products.
Helps to know about new machines required for new styles.
It becomes easier to distribute particular job to each operator.
Good line balancing increases the rate of production

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5. Conclusion

When we consider garment industry, especially in sewing section effective line planning is
challenging. In general effective line planning is the most critical for short order quantity as well
as used to reduce production time, increase productivity, and reduce worker fatigue also it helps
production manager and line supervisor with information such as what is the daily production
target for line. They set their line (machines and manpower) accordingly production planning is
managed. Line plan also provides information such as how many days style would run, what
would be the next style to be loaded, and also need to be analyzed in which way we need to
arrange the work stations to react to the fast fashion demands/ short order quantity. In this
concern, UPS plays an important role in saving lot of time / man-hour leads to decrease in the
SMV value, leading to increase in efficiency as well apart from saving time in planning
activities.

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6. References
1. Prasanta Sarkar., Comparison between Progressive Bundle System and Unit Production
System (UPS), Available:http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/comparison-
between-progressive-bundle.html, July 15, 2013.
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line?Available:http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/comparison-between-
progressive-bundle.html, July 15, 2013.
3. Ramesh, V., Garment production systems: An overview Jones, Available:
http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=28 July 15, 2013.
4. Khadem, M., Ali, A., and Seifoddini, H., Efficacy of lean metrics in evaluating the
performance of manufacturing system, International Journal of Industrial Engineering,
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14. Prasanta Sarkar., Which production system is better - A Conventional line Or a Modular
line?,Available:http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/comparison-between-
progressive-bundle.html, July 15, 2013.
15. Ramesh, V., Garment production systems: An overview Jones, Available:
http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=28 July 15, 2013.
16. Khadem, M., Ali, A., and Seifoddini, H., Efficacy of lean metrics in evaluating the
performance of manufacturing system, International Journal of Industrial Engineering,
vol. 15, no. 2, pp. 176-184, 2008.