Ceramic Tile Overview

Ceramic tile offers unlimited

decorating possibilities
With today's technology advancements
manufacturers many new tile designs and tile
applications are available for both homeowners
and commercial facilities. If you have never used
ceramic tile before or it has been a long time since
you have done so, you will be amazed at the wide
selection of colors, sizes, shapes and new textures
that are now available.

Ceramic tile is a natural product made up of clay,

a number of other naturally-occurring minerals
and water. Ceramic tile comes in both glazed and
unglazed tiles. Glazed ceramic tile has a ceramic
coating applied to the tile body which gives the
tile its color and finish. Ceramic tile is a popular choice for your interior floors and walls and
offers unlimited decorating possibilities.

Some characteristics of glazed ceramic tile are:

 Durable - a properly installed ceramic tile will outperform and outlast nearly any other
floor covering product created for the same application.
 Easy care - glazed ceramic tile resists stains, odors, and dirt and can be cleaned up with a
damp mop or sponge or common household cleaners such as Mr. Clean, Top Job or Spic
and Span.
 Scratch resistant - Grade III and Grade IV glazed ceramic tiles are extremely resistant to
scratching and you never have to worry about a cut or tear like you do with some other
types of floors.
 Environmentally friendly - ceramic tile is manufactured using natural materials and
does not retain odors, allergens, or bacteria.
 Beautiful and Versatile - modern ceramic manufacturing technology has created
virtually an unlimited number of colors, sizes, styles, shapes, and textures that will add
rich beauty and character to any room decor.
 Fire Resistant - ceramic tile doesn't burn nor emit toxic fumes. A lighted cigarette, when
dropped on the floor, even if allowed to sit, will not do any damage to ceramic tile. Even
hot kitchen pans or skillets will not scorch or melt the surface of glazed ceramic tile.
 Water Resistant - most glazed ceramic tile has a dense body that permits little or no
accumulation of moisture. This means spills from common liquids found in a kitchen are
not a big concern.
Some of the other important things to consider when selecting a ceramic tile are:

 Slip-resistance of ceramic tile

 Size of tile compared to the overall room size
 Width and color of the grout joints
 Thickness of the tile
 Height variations of the floors
between adjoining rooms
 Suitability of the sub floor for
ceramic tile
 Cleanability of the ceramic tile

Glazed Ceramic Tile

vs Unglazed Ceramic
Tile
Ceramic tiles come to two basic
constructions, glazed and unglazed. The
body of ceramic tile (called: bisque) may be
coated with a glaze or without depending on it’s intended purpose.

The glaze coating is comprised of liquid colored glass and is applied and baked to the surface of
the bisque under very high temperatures. The liquid glass coating is what creates the texture,
design and color of a glazed tile and protects the body of the tile from staining. The colors in the
glaze come from various minerals, such as zinc, mercury, copper, gold, silver, etc.

Glazing allows ceramic tile to be offered in unlimited colors and designs. If the glazed surface is
scratched or damaged you cannot repair the tile, just replace it. Glazed ceramic tile are generallt
used in residential areas only, such as bathrooms, kitchens, walls and countertops. Some of the
features of glazed ceramic tile are:

 Stain Resistant
 Scratch Resistant
 Fire Resistant
 Fade resistance to direct sunlight
 Slip Resistant
  Easy to Clean

Unglazed tile have no glazing on the surface. The color of the bisque goes all the way through
the tile from top to bottom. The through color means the tile won't show wear form scratches like
glazed tile. Tiles lies quarry tile are unglazed and used in both commercial and residential areas.
Depending on the type of unglazed tile you may need a special sealer.

Marble Tile
Marble tile is a timeless fashion classic that has been used for
many centuries as a building material as well as for sculptures
and monuments. It's natural beauty is seen in many outstanding
masterpieces including the famous Taj Mahal in India. Today,
many homeowners are finding it adds an aura of slendor and
elegance to a room's decor.

Marble consists of sediments, seashells or other ocean debris and

minerals that over time, heat and pressure eventually crystallize
into marble. During the marble stone's formation fissures filled
with minerals create the beautiful veining colorations that add to
marble's appearance and visual appeal. This also makes each
marble tile unique and never exactly alike. Marble's patina is
achieved by polishing the tiles which further enhances the visual
appearance and distinctive colorations within each tiles.

Marble tiles are usually only used in interiors as floor tile or around fireplaces and in bathroom
shower or tub enclosures. The tiles come in many different sizes and various natural earth-tone
colorations. Generally the marble tile's finish are either polished or tumbled to give a more worn
appearance.

Some marble tile colorations like green and black need extra care and require a special epoxy
adhesive during installation. Marble is also easier to scratch than some of the other types of
stone. Special, stone impregnating sealers are recommended. General cleaning is dust mopping
and if needed use special, ph-balanced, stone cleaners. Never use acidic cleaners (like vinegar)
on marble tiles.

Ceramic Tile Definitions

Tiles are a mixture of clays that are pressed into shape and fired at high temperatures which
gives the tile it’s hardness. The bisque (body) of ceramic tile may then be glazed, or left
unglazed depending on it’s intended use.

Classifications of Ceramic Tile

 P.E.I Wear Ratings from the Porcelain Enamel
Institute
Group I: Tiles that are suitable for residential bathrooms with light foot traffic .
Generally wall tile products fall into this group. Some wall tiles can be used on
the floor. Consult the manufacturer of the tile for their recommended areas of
application.

Group II: Tiles that can be used in residential areas, but not areas with high foot
traffic, such as in kitchens, foyers, laundry rooms, etc.

Group III: Tiles that are recommended for all residential installations with
normal foot traffic.

Group IV: Tiles that are suited for light to medium commercial applications,
such as offices, sales rooms.

Group V: Tiles used in heavy commercial traffic areas and are suited for exterior
areas, shopping centers, airports, hotel lobbies, public walkways.

Types of Tiles
Ceramic Mosaic Tile – tiles that are less than 6 inches facial area and may be
either porcelain or natural clay composition and usually are 3/8" or less in
thickness.

Quarry Tile – tiles made from the extrusion process from shale or natural clays
and usually are 6 square inches or more in facial size and can be glazed or
unglazed.

Paver Tile – glazed or unglazed natural clay or porcelain tiles having a facial area
of six square inches or more and made from the dust-pressed method.

Wall Tile – glazed tiles with that are designed for indoor use and are generally
non-vitreous.

Common Tile Terms

Glazed – The most common style today in floor and wall tiles, as well as for
residential and commercial applications. A liquid glass is applied to the body of
the tile and fired at high temperatures. The glazing becomes hard and non-porous
resulting in a flooring that is:

 Stain Resistant
  Scratch Resistant
 Fire Resistant
 Doesn’t Fade from Sun Light
 Slip Resistant
 Easy to Clean

Shiny glazes are softer, can be scratched easier, and can be slippery than the satin
or rustic finishes.

Unglazed – There is no glazing or any other coating applied to the tile. Their
color is the same on the face of the tile as it is on the back resulting in very
durable tiles that do not show the effects of heavy traffic. The most common
unglazed tiles are the red quarry tiles or the granite looking porcelain ceramic tiles
used in heavy commercial areas.

Saltillo Tile – is a Mexican tile made of unprocessed clays.

Listello – a narrow tile used to accent field tiles.

Rectified tile is simply tile that has been ground or sawed after firing to achieve a
more precise tile size. Many tiles will vary slightly in size after being fired (both
porcelain and ceramic tiles it is up to 1.5% variation) . By sawing or grinding the
tiles after firing the manufacturer can minimize the size variations from tile to tile

Tile Density & Moisture Absorption

Tile Density – As the weight or the density increase it becomes a stronger tile.

Moisture Absorption – Again as the density increases the amount of moisture

that a tile can absorb becomes less.

Tile density and moisture absorption have an indirect relationship to each other.
As the density of the tile increases the moisture absorption rate becomes less. Tile
density and moisture absorption are important to understand when selecting the
tiles for different applications.

Non-Vitreous Tiles – tiles with a water absorption of 7% or greater (wall tile).

Suited for indoor use only.

Semi-Vitreous Tiles – tiles with a water absorption greater than 3%, but less than
7%. Suited for indoor use only.

Vitreous Tiles – tiles with a water absorption less that 3% moisture, but more
than 0.5%. Referred to as frost resistant tiles but can not be used in exterior areas
where freeze thaw conditions could cause tile cracking.
 Impervious Tiles – tiles that have less than .5% moisture absorption (Porcelain
tile). These tiles are frost proof and can be used in exterior areas, or on the outside
of building facades.

Tile Production Methods

Bicottura - It is an Italian word meaning "double fired". The clay body is fired on
the first pass through the kiln, and the glaze is applied and fired on the second
pass through the kiln. This process is only being used today for decorative wall
tile products.

Monocottura – It is an Italian word meaning, "single fired". The tile passes

through the firing process one time at a temperature of 2200 degrees.
Monocuttura tiles have denser bodies and harder glazes than Bicottura tiles.

White Body Tile versus Red Body Tile

The color of the body is determined by the color of the clay used by the
manufacturer that is available in their geographic region. Look at the body of the
tile to see if the color is red or white. The quality of the tile is more related to the
quality of the manufacturer not the color of the body.

Wall Tile Trims

Bullnose – This is the most used trim shape for wall tile installations. Wall tile
bullnose is sometimes referred to as surface cap . It has one rounded finished
edge on the tile and can be used horizontally or vertically. For a 4" x 4" tile the
industry number would be S4449.

Corner Bullnose – It has two rounded finished edges on the tile to be used to
complete the corner where the horizontal and vertical bullnose meet. Generally
you use only 2 – 3 pieces for a bathtub enclosure. For a 4" x 4" tile the industry
number would be SN4449.

Stack-on Cove Base – This cove base provides a coving on the bottom and a flat
edge on top to continue with more wall tile up the wall. For a 4" x 4" tile the
industry number would be A3401.

Rounded Top Cove Base – This cove base has a rounded finished top like
bullnose and is used as a cove base in areas that will not have wall tile installed
above it. The industry number would be S3419.

The above trims are the most commonly used. There are many other specialty
trims available that will only confuse you. Your tile installer will be able to look
at your installation and know what trims will be needed.
Natural Stone Tile
Natural stone floors offer a distinct and beautiful alternative to your flooring choices. Each stone
has it own unique visual appearance. Unlike glazed ceramic tiles, stone tiles do not have a
protective glazed coating on top and the color goes all the way through the tiles.

Marble Tile Floors

Marble floors have been used for centuries and can add an aura of splendor
and sophistication to any room. No two pieces of marble are exactly alike
which helps create the distinctive natural visuals that are only achieved
within nature. Polishing the marble tiles gives them a patina that enhances
the overall beauty of each tile. Installation is really left to the professionals
who know how to handle and worth with marble and other stones.

Granite Floors
Granite is one of the hardest and most durable of all stones used in flooring.
The speckled colorations found in granite a beautiful and subtle fine pattern
of color. Polishing the granite adds a visible sheen and depth to each tile.
Like marble, no two pieces are a like and color variations add to the natural
beauty and appeal. Professional installation is highly recommended for
installing granite floor tiles.

Slate Floors
Slate is more of a fine grained rock with traces of metal that were present during it's slow, natural
formation in the earth. Natural shade variations are an inherent characteristic of slate and
enhance the distinctive details of each piece. Slate has a rustic charm that appeals to our senses
for natural materials.

Travertine Floors
Travertine stones helped build the Roman Empire and adds to the appeal for these stones.
Crystalized minerals and limestone create these beatiful beige stones with unique color and
veining characteristics. Polishing the travertine stones gve more depth, sheen and accents tbe
natural variations of the stone. These two need to be installed by a professional who is use to
working with stones.

Care of Stone Floors

Stones should have a special penetrating sealer to prevent staining and help protect the pores of
the stone's surface. Use special cleaners made for stones that are non-acidic. Regular cleaning
with a soft dust mop is recommended to help remove dirt and grit from the floor.

Installing Ceramic Wall Tile Around a Bath

Tub Enclosure
Believe it or not it is really very easy to install ceramic
tile around a tub enclosure. It just takes patience,
common sense and being somewhat handy. I recently did
two bathroom tub enclosures using 4" X 4" glazed wall
tile. The procedures listed below should help anyone
who desires to tackle this job themselves.

Obviously, you need to start out by measuring each wall.

Measure the height and width of each vertical wall and
then multiple the width and height to get the square
footage for each wall. Note the height of the outside edge
along the tub if you are going to use a bullnose tile for
finishing the tile. Bullnose are the tiles with one edge rounded for a truly finished appearance.
The field tile is sold by the square foot and bullnose and other trim pieces are sold by the piece.
Be sure to order at least 5% extra to allow for broken or chipped pieces. Also, check to be sure
the field tile all have the same shade letter or number.

While picking out your tile think about intermixing different colored tiles or decorative tiles into
the field areas. This can really enhance the appearance of your tile job and give you a very
striking look.

To help you determine the amount of ceramic tile you need for your project, or to play around
with various tile patterns I suggest you see the on-line ceramic tile tools at Daltile. You can also
see the same thing at American Olean, see their "Tile Tabulator" and "Design With Tile"
sections. Note: American Olean and Daltile are part of the same parent company, Mohawk
Industries (who also sells under the brand called Mohawk Ceramic Tile). Both tile companies
make exceptional ceramic tiles for residential and commercial applications. The wall tile I
purchased for my bathroom projects came from Florida Tile another quality ceramic tile
manufacturer. My choice was made by what the store had in stock at the time.

Before actually starting the job be sure to properly protect your tub from damage while working.
I covered the entire tub with 4 mil poly and tapped it in place with duck tape. The pipes I had in
place were temporary and the faucets were protected with cardboard tubes.
If you are in new construction or are starting with
the wood framing studs I would highly recommend
doing it right and using cement board. Try to avoid
using any type of plywood for a substrate to attach
the tile too. Tub surrounds are considered wet areas
and are accessible to high amounts of moisture.
Cement board, like Durock is readily available at
home centers and many specialty flooring stores.
They come in several sizes and thickness, with 3 ft.
by 5 ft. by 1/2 inch being the most common. For
cutting the cement boards just mark the the lines
with a pencil, score both sides with a utility knife
and snap the board to size. You can also use a carbide-tipped blade with a circular saw to cut or
score the boards.

If you are going to secure the tiles with a mastic type adhesive be sure the smooth side of the
cement board is facing out. If you are going to secure the ceramic tile with thin-set mortar
(portland cement mixture ) the rough side of the cement board should be facing out. Be sure to
leave an 1/8" gap between all panels.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for securing the cement board to the wall. Normally
this means using specially coated screws to attach the cement board to the walls. Screws should
be every 6 to 8 inches along the wood studs. Be aware the cement board is not meant to add
structure or reinforce the wall construction. It is used to give the adhesive and tile something to
adhere too, not to reinforce the structure. Once the cement board has been secured it should be
checked to make sure there is no movement, which may cause the tile to crack or fall off. For
futher information i recommend you go to the USG Durock web site.

All seams between the cement boards need to be taped

prior to installation. The special glass fiber tape comes in
rolls and has a adhesive on the back side for sticking to
the cement board. The tape is readily available for home
centers, hardware stores and specialty flooring stores.

Okay, now we are ready to start dry laying the ceramic

tile. Dry laying a row of tile along each wall will help
determine if you need to adjust the tiles to make a better
looking job and to avoid having to cut small slivers of
tile where the rows butt up against adjacent walls. If the tile at the end of a row is less than one
inch wide re-adjust the width of the starting tile to avoid trying to cut and fit narrow pieces of
tile. Trust me, trying to cut narrow little tiles is frustrating and can waste a lot of tiles due to
cracking. Drawing a small pencil mark where each tile starts and ends can then be extended up
the wall. Using a plumb line (string with a weight) you can then see how true the tile lines will
be. These lines will also help guide you as you work your way up the wall. A plumb line can also
help you determine before installation if any of your vertical walls run off and what kind of cuts
may be needed. Do the same thing going across the walls. Also, check to be sure the tile rows
never end on a cement board joint.

I found it easiest to work in small sections as I installed

the ceramic tile. Take a straight edge or chalk line and
mark off the wall in smaller areas going across the
cement board. I used a tile to mark the rows about 4 to 6
high. This gives you smaller areas to work within when
spreading the mastic adhesive or thinset mortar. Use a
straight edge and a level to continually check if the tile
lines are running true or not. Doing this in smaller
sections meant I could easily adjust across the width or
height if the tile rows started running off. Adjustments
are made by slightly increasing or decreasing the width
of the grout joints. Since the 4" X 4" wall tiles had
spacer tabs along all the edges of the tiles I did not have
to set the joint space manually between the rows.

I chose to
use a quality wall mastic for my tile work
because it is easier to do for the non-
professional. Yet, it will still give you years of
performance and installs much faster for the do-it-
yourselfer than mixing thinset in a bucket.
(Note: thinset is better for adhering the tiles to
cement board, but as a do-it-yourselfer I did not
want the extra hassle.) By working in smaller
areas you also do not have to do the job all at the
same time. Although I did the the tub walls all in the same day you can do the job as time
permits by doing it in sections. Just don't do too big of areas and rush trying to get the tiles on the
walls. If you have excess adhesive than take a putty knife, scrape off the excess adhesive and
discard it. I also used discardable trowels so I could throw them away if they became worn down
too much.

The mastic manufacturer will specify the proper

notched trowel to use with their adhesive. For wall
tile be sure the adhesive is made for adhering tile to
vertical surfaces. Wall tile adhesive should have
better grab for keeping tiles from sliding around
once pressed into the adhesive. Tiles should be
pressed firmly into the adhesive. Periodically pop a
tile to see if the adhesive covers the entire back of
the tile. To help adhere the tile into the adhesive
very slightly twist the tiles back and forth after
pressing into the adhesive. (Do not over do this or you will push the adhesive into the tile joints.)
This helps ensure the tiles are properly "seated" in the adhesive.

If adhesive gets into the tile joint area I used a thin wood wedge or a 1" plastic putty knife. I
prefer plastic or wood so not to scratch the tiles.

The adhesive should be spread onto the cement board with the proper sized trowel. The trowel
will have a saw-toothed edge. The teeth will allow the adhesive to be spread evenly in corn rows.
Generally it is recommended to hold the trowel at a very slight angle. (If your knuckles are
getting in the adhesive then you are holding the trowel wrong.) Never spread the adhesive with a
flat trowel or flst edge. When the teeth on the trowel become too worn, stop and get a new
trowel. Trowels are much cheaper than having to replace tile because of poor workmanship. Buy
extra trowels and have them handy. Check often the notches for wear.

As you install the tiles you are bound to get some

adhesive on the face of the tiles. Always have a clean
bucket filled with lukewarm water and a sponge handy.
Once you have completed installing a small section of
tile, wring out the wet sponge and wipe the excess
adhesive off of the tile. Be careful not to move the
recently installed tile. Rinse the sponge out often and
only use a damp sponge on the ceramic tile surface.

For cutting tiles I prefer to mark the tile before the

adhesive is applied to that section. Using a tape measure,
a pencil and a tile or two, mark the area on the tile that
must be cut. For going around pipes I used a tile nipper
and slowly snipped small pieces of tile. Tile nippers are
available at home centers, hardware stores and specialty
flooring stores.

For cutting tiles in straight pieces or in half I used a

tile cutter. Tile cutters make cutting tiles much
easier and keep the cut lines straight and square. The
cutter first scores the surface of the glazed tile and
then using the cutter handle and your arm pressure
to easily snap the tile into two pieces exactly at the
scored line. You can also use a glass cutter to score
tile and then place a large nail under the tile to break
it. Scoring and snapping tile by hand is a lot more
work and breakage is much higher.

Tile cutters can be rented at most rental stores. Some home centers and flooring stores also rent
tile cutters if you buy the tile and other materials from them. In my case, the flooring store was
kind enough to lend me the tile cutter for a few days for no charge.
Once the tile was all installed I let the adhesive setup for 24 hours while I went and did the other
bathroom.

Since I was using a wall tile with a very small grout joint
I had to use a unsanded grout. Sanded grout is generally
used for floor tiles with wider grout joints. I am a
believer in doing the job right so I added a latex milk
additive to the grout. Some people may suggest cutting
the additive with 50% water to save some money - do
not do it! Use the additive full strength the way the
manufacturer recommends it to be used. The latex
additive adds additional bonding strength and elasticity
to the grout. The additive does make clean up more of a
chore but the end result will be worth it in the long run.
Mix the grout and additive as recommended and mix
thoroughly. Generally you have to let the grout mixture stand a few minutes before using. Only
mix enough to do the job. I prefer to do one wall at a time since I am not use to doing this work.

The grout is spread onto the surface of the tile by a special rubber float. The float should be held
at an angle and the grout pushed into the tile joints diagonally. Going across the tile with the
float diagonally helps keep the grout in the joints. Be sure the grout joints are packed full of
grout. By the time you finish grouting a tub wall, you should be about ready for clean up back at
where you started grouting first. Read the instructions on the grout bag for their
recommendations.

Clean is tedious but rather easy. Have a bucket of clean, lukewarm water
and a big sponge handy. Wring out the sponge and start wiping down the
walls. Always wipe at a 45 degree angle to the grout joints. Never wipe
parallel to the joints. This is to avoid removing the grout from the joints.
I also used a clean old white tee-shirt to wipe the tiles off and using the
sponge. This helps remove the haze from the tile.

To seal the grout it is recommended you wait at least 21 days before

applying the sealer. Don't be surprised at the cost of the sealer, it is very
expensive. We did not need to use the showers immediately and so I
waited for 21 days before applying the sealer. I used a old dry while cloth to apply and wipe off
excess sealer. I also used a bath caulk and applied al along where the tile met the tub, as well as
around the holes cut for the pipes.

Tile-Fixing Instructions       1.
Plaster the surface of the wall to tile with a wood finish and complete rendering and curing at
least two weeks prior to tiling. DO NOT FIX TILES ON FRESH WALL.
  2.
Before fixing the tiles, lay them in desired pattern and make sure that they give an acceptable
blend of colour. Also make sure that the tiles are acceptable to your satisfaction. Please note that
certain amount of shade & size variation is inherent in all ceramic products. THE COMPANY
WILL BEAR NO LIABILITY AFTER THE TILES ARE FIXED.
  3.
The Company bears no responsibility towards the tiles that are exposed to any outside processes
like transfers, printing, firing etc.
  4.
For fixing wall tiles we recommend the use of BAL-ENDURA tile fixing adhesives. For best
results, follow the tile fixing instructions provided along with the adhesive.
  5.
For fixing wall tiles using sand cement, follow the instruction given below:-
  
a. Use cement and sand mortar in the ratio of 1 : 3. Add some water to create a consistent
paste. DO NOT USE NEAT CEMENT FOR FIXING TILES.
b. Once the mixing has been complete, do not add any further water and use the same within
one hour.
c. Soak the tiles in clean water for at least 30 minutes before fixing.
d. Remove the tiles from the water and allow them to drain to ensure that there is no film of
water on the surface.
e. Apply the bedding material evenly and tap it firmly back into position to ensure proper
contact between the tile and wall.
        6.
The Work size which we try to maintain for better technical performance is + 2 mm on an
average. It is advisable to maintain a gap of 1-2 mm between every two tiles to allow for possible
expansion as per BIS/EN tolerance norms.
          7.
Wait for 24 hours after fixing the tiles. After this period fill the joints with BAL-GROUT.
        8.
15 minutes after the grouting process, wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge and polish
with a soft, dry cloth.
        9.
Please note that the company does not accept any liability incase of problems arising out of non-
adherence to these tiles fixing instructions.
        10.
Please note that wall tiles are especially manufactured for use on the wall only. DO NOT FIX
WALLTILES ON THE FLOOR.
        11.
For cleaning tiles, use water or diluted soap solution followed by water with soft moist cloth or
sponge. DO NOT SCRUB OR SCRATCH (especially for luster finish wall tiles and border
tiles).
        12.
DO NOT USE ACID/ALKALI/SOLVENT/CLEANING POWDERS ETC. FOR CLEANING
TILES. (Especially for luster finish wall and border tiles.)
    
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NOTHING IN THESE INSTRUCTIONS IS A SUBSTITUTE
FOR GOOD WORKMANSHIP AND SUPERVISION
Marbonite

Tile-Fixing Instructions
 
1. Plaster the surface of the floor to be tiled, with smooth finish and complete the plastering
and curing at least two weeks prior to tiling.
 
2. Before fixing Marbonite tiles, lay them out in the desired pattern and make sue that they
give an acceptable blend of colour. Please note that certain amount of shade variation is
inherent in the manufacture of a fully vitrified ceramic tile. THE COMPANY WILL
 
BEAR NO LIABILITY AFTER THE TILES ARE FIXED .
 
3. For fixing floor tiles, we recommend the use of BAL–ENDURA tile fixing adhesives. For
best results, follow the instruction provided along with the adhesives.
 
4. For fixing Marbonite tiles on the floor, using sand and cement, follow the instructions given
below:-
a. Use cement and sand mortar in the ratio of 1:4 Add some water to create a consistent
paste.
b. Once the mixing has completed do not add any further water and use the same within
one hour.
   
c. Apply a 20-30 mm. layer of bedding material over an area of 1 Square meter at a time
on the surface of the area. Apply a fine slurry to the back of the tile to ensure proper
and full bedding. Press gently for even adherence at the back of the tile. DO NOT USE
AN IRON HAMMER OR SOME HEAVY MATERIAL TO PRESS THE TILE.
   
5. For fixing the Marbonite tile on Dado, we recommend the use of adhesive. Please follow the
  manufacture's instructions for the same. We do not recommend the use of sand and cement  
for fixing on Dado.
   
6. Mark and lay out the tiles from the center of the area to be tiled so that cut tiles, if any will
   
be on the outer edges towards the walls.
   
7. The Work size which we try to maintain for better technical performance is + 2 mm on an
average. It is advisable to maintain a gap of 1-2mm between every two tiles to allow for
   
possible expansion as per BIS/EN tolerance norms. This would give the coverage area as
mentioned in the carton.
   
8. Complete the tile laying process by pressing the cut Marbonite firmly into place along the
   
walls / floors.
   
  9. Allow 3-4 days for bed curing. After this period fill the joints with grouts.  
   
10 15 minutes after finishing the grouting process, wipe off excess grout with a damp sponge
  . and polish the tiles with a soft and dry cloth for a clean surface. The tiles can also be cleaned  
by mild acid (however Hydrofluoric acid and its derivatives should not be used).
   
11 Please note that the company does not accept any liability in case of problems arising out of
   
. non-adherence to these fixing instructions.
   
12 Kindly look for the arrow on the back of the tile and follow the laying pattern as  
  .
shown below:-

 
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  NOTHING IN THESE INSTRUCTION IS A SUBSTITUTE
 
FOR GOOD WORKMANSHIP AND SUPERVISION