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In Their Own Sweet Time - Palm Honey On La Gomera
In Their Own Sweet Time - Palm Honey On La Gomera
In Their Own Sweet Time - Palm Honey On La Gomera
In their
own sweet time
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F
or centuries, the palm tree has been one of the Locally it’s a highly prized liquid that’s drunk raw as
world’s most important plants for humans, a juice, likened to coconut milk; used to make wine and
both practically and symbolically. As well as vinegar; and – most famously – boiled down into a rich,
being a religious sign and motif of relaxation, sweet syrup known as miel de palma, or “palm honey”.
it provides shelter from the sun, animal fodder and This syrup, which is imbued with a rich mineral
fruits, including coconuts, dates, betel nuts and acai. content and completely pure, is called “the queen
On La Gomera, one of the seven main islands of of the kitchen” for its adaptability. Islanders drizzle
Spain’s Canaries, the trees also provide a vital livelihood it over everything from goat’s cheese to salad or
for the young men known as guaraperos. For the last five fresh fruit, and use it to make desserts such as leche
centuries, they’ve been scaling the Phoenix canariensis asada (an egg and milk pudding). It’s even accorded
(Canarian date palm) for its sap: guarapo. medicinal powers, and used to cure sore throats. »
072 n
“Imagine this is
your profession:
you have to work
at a great height,
it’s hard work and
Previous pages,
from left⁄
dangerous...”
Preparing a palm at
La Encantadora, near
Vallehermoso; miel de
palma is used in traditional
leche asada pudding
Clockwise from left⁄
Kevin Santos Ossorio, of
Royal Palm, working in
Valle Gran Rey; guarapero
Sergio making final
preparations to a palm;
rope holding a bucket,
which will fill overnight
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From left⁄
Tanausú Chavez works
as a guarapero, but also
has his own trees in
Vallehermoso; axes are
used to carefully remove
the young leaves of the
Phoenix canariensis palm
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076 n
From left⁄
Guarapero Sergio makes
his way down a very tall
palm; and he scrapes
away the flesh of a palm
to reveal the glistening
sap beneath
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Perilous
production
Other foods that
require bravery
Percebes
The treasured
goose barnacles
grow on sheer
coastal cliffs in
Galicia, Spain.
Collectors – who
are lowered on
ropes or jump on
to the cliffs
from boats – risk
being smashed
against the rocks
by the surf.
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