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Poultry Raising in The Philippines and Guide To Raise Healthy and Productive Layers
Poultry Raising in The Philippines and Guide To Raise Healthy and Productive Layers
Birds and fowls are more suited to cold than to hot weather. They lay more eggs in cold weather because
they are not stressed. Fowls do not perspire but they pant for breath and need much drinking water in
hot weather. So that they will lay more eggs, do not leave them under the heat of the sun; if they are
allowed to roam about, let them seek shade. Give them wet food and crushed shells during very hot
weather.
The first week in newly hatched chicks is important. It is here that the health of the fowl depends, to
give it good price. These first seven days is 15% of the growth and life of a growing chick. In the natural
way, the mother hen teaches the chicks, as they go about together, how to cackle, or squawk and the
young ones learn to hunt for food and avoid enemies (oppressors). The mother hen also provides her
chicks with heat under her wings. But in raising chicks in numbers, these opportunities are wanting.
They learn in life individually. Thus, it is necessary to provide the chicks with the right temperature,
light and air, and right number in their coop.
1. Coop temperature
Chicks temperature is 38.6°C and becomes 40.5°C in 7 days. The feathers that provide heat to their
bodies are still few. Thus, many chicks die of cold within the first seven days. The coop temperature
must be 31°C-35°C in the first day. This is lowered by 3°C at the end of the first week. After this,
temperature must be maintained at 21°C-24°C . When the temperature of the coop is not right, the chicks
will not approach their food or drink within 5-7 days, so many chicks die of hunger and weakness when
they are cold. When the coop temperature is right, the chicks are lively in the first 2 or 3 days; they pick
up things that attract them like bright stones or colorful grains and they preen their feathers or swim in
the soil. When the coop temperature is not adequate, they cling close to one another, chirp loudly and
endlessly and refuse to move.
2. Light
In the first week, give the chickens light to enable them to keep eating. After this, familiarize them for
a period of an hour without light so that they will not suffer shock when power is out. If they will not
learn to eat in the dark, they will not grow fast. They will not grow quickly with mere 8 hours light and
16 hours dark.
3. Flow of Air
Airflow in the coop must be adequate enough to remove the stench of their manure. Strong wind
however will make them feel cold.
4. Chick Population
Do not overpopulate the chicks in the coop. They should be just enough so as to allow free circulation
of air.
5. Loss of Heat
When the chicks are clustered together, heat is not lost. The size of the coop should grow as the chicks
grow. In this way, the right temperature is maintained.
6. Drinking Water
Chicks easily get thirsty, especially in hot weather. If they do not drink enough, they will not eat enough,
and so will not have energy in their bodies. As such, they will chill, which could cause their death.
Drinking bowls should be numerous so that they will quickly learn to drink. These should also be in
bright places so they can be easily found and accessible to approach.
Instead of providing more ventilation or cooling devices in chicken coops during hot weather, give more
fat in their meals instead of pure corn so as to cool their bodies. Chicken given fat gain weight more
quickly than those given pure carbohydrates (corn) only.
Like children, growing chicks easily get infected with disease. In coops where they are reared,
respiratory sicknesses are common when they are crowded and ventilation is poor. This is because of
ammonia, a gas that is emitted by the decaying feces of the chicks. When the chicks are crowded, feces
get accumulated and with this, together with moisture, the strength of ammonia increases, especially
when ventilation is poor. According to experts, experienced chicken raisers know when the number of
chicks has reached a certain level that makes ammonia no longer bearable for the chicken. In such
condition, ammonia lowers the weight of the chicken. The fowls lose appetite, their lungs weaken, and
become vulnerable to respiratory diseases. Because of this, it is not good to allow feces to accumulate,
and it is necessary to widen ventilation windows.
Layers will lay eggs regularly if they are kept away from noise and disturbances. The effect of noise
and disturbances on 4,000 layers was studied by four scientists from the University of Zagreb,
Yugoslavia. When a strong electric bell was sounded, the number of eggs laid was decreased; when a
stronger sound, the firemans siren was sounded, decrease in eggs laid was bigger. When the 2 sounds –
bell or siren were simultaneously sounded, the hens, struck with fear, tried to see the source of the noise.
Not one laid egg. In this event, 240 out of 4,000 (6%) died, 480 (9%) did not lay eggs; 3,720 (93%)
suffered obstetrical defects, 1,640 (41%) got indigestion problems and 360 (9%) got respiratory
sicknesses.
Poor layers cost food and space, and so should be removed. The marks of a poor layer are:
a. The comb is pale, dry and withdrawn at the top and below the throat.
e. Yellow color surrounds the eyes, legs and bill. A good layer has no such color.
f. The hips are hard, thick and narrow (at 2 fingers wide).
1. Gather the eggs 3 times a day or more in hot weather. Eggs easily spoil in a warm surrounding.
7. Cool off the containers first (if warm) before putting in the eggs.
8. Sell or dispose the eggs 2 times a week or more often so as to retain only the most freshly laid ones.
The sodium content of salt is necessary for egg laying. But this element is not provided in commercial
feeds because it will increase the cost. To enable the hen to produce well, mix 200 gms of salt for every
2 sacks of feed. It has been observed by researchers that chickens lay eggs 29% short when their feed
lacks salt.
Light is important in the setting up of a coop for layers. It has much to do in the maturation of the
growing layers and their capability to lay plenty.
1. Do not increase lighting in the coop of growing layers. This hastens their maturity and it makes them
start laying eggs even while very young, but the eggs are small.
2. If the layers are already laying eggs, do not decrease lighting. It has effect on the hormones of the
layer — either activate or suppress them.
3. So it is suggested that from 4 to 20 weeks of a growing layer, the length of sunlight is 13 hours, if
possible 14-16 hours a day.
A 50-watt bulb is adequate for a 25 sq.m. coop. The ceiling where it will hang is from 2.4″-2.7″ (inches).
According to studies in the University of Guelph, Ontario, Canada, a laying hen given Vitamin D when
feed bears stronger egg shells than those not given Vitamin D. Several groups of layers were given
different doses of Vitamin D3 (calciferol, derived from the fish liver oil). Those not given with the
vitamin laid less eggs, and their shells easily broke. After 4 weeks, their egg laying decreased by 30%,
and either with thin shells or without shell. But those given Vitamin D3 in their diet laid normal eggs
with strong shells. Those given 125 units Vitamin D3 only, also laid equal number of eggs as those
given 500 units, but the eggs were not normal in shape and the shells were not strong.
According to researchers from Brent School, Baguio City, egg shells have certain uses that are not
benefited from, such as:
– Fertilizer — egg shells contain calcium, phosphorus, potassium, and sulfur. When applied on cabbage
plants, the leaves became wider, greener and the heads bigger.
– Cement — although it does not dry easily, cement from egg shells are smooth binder for bricks in the
following proportions:
1 part cement
1. Watermelon rind
Researchers at UP Los Baños fed watermelon rind to chickens for 6 months. These were compared to
chicken given ordinary commercial feed. They observed that commercial feeds can be replaced with
watermelon rind up to 20%.
Method:
2. Sunflower Seeds
Researchers in India tried feeding 18% up to 26% protein (from the resulting cakes after oil has been
extracted from the sunflower seeds) to growing chickens aging up to 70 days. These grew faster and
consumed more feeds than those not given sunflower cakes. They also observed that feeding the
chickens with seed coats did not cause any harm.
Source: Phil. Farmers Journal March 1981
3. Tobacco Seeds
In places where tobacco is widely planted, farmers know that every plant can yield about 30 grams. To
save on feeds, researchers tried replacing 20% of the feeds with tobacco seeds. Nothing adverse was
observed in the chicken, neither in taste nor in shape.
Tobacco seeds contain: 20% protein (38% if newly harvested), 15% crude fiber and 4% carbohydrates.
4. Banana Leaves
5. Banana Peels
Method:
This can be mixed up to 15% commercial broiler starter mash and finisher mash.
1 kilo
For broiler feed, ration diet is starter mash from day 1 to day 42, and finisher mash from 42-49 days.
Chickens fed 25% with this in 56 days made no difference in weight with those fed with 100% corn.
6. Rabbit Manure
According to British Poultry Science Report (1981), for every kilo of broiler feed, 100-200 gm dried
rabbit manure can be added. Dried rabbit manure according to their research, contains 18.8% raw
protein, 9% water, and 19.9% MJ energy in every kilo.
7. Seaweeds
Two kinds of brown algae can be mixed with the chicken feed in the following way:
Source: Technological Information Pilot System AgriBo 62/1 May 25, 1989 Mexico
8. Water Lily
According to UPLB Researchers, water lily is rich in protein making it suitable as feed for chicken.
Procedure:
2. Mix the greenish paste-like substance with water and stir well to dissolve protein.
4. Heat the liquid to 80oC to coagulate protein components, dry and pulverize.
The result is the water hyacinth leaf protein concentrate (WHLPC) which is an excellent substitute to ¼
soybean meals as feed for chicks aged 1-40 days-old. WHLPC is also rich in calcium and potassium
and contains 35% raw protein with 11% roughage. WLHPC, although do not necessarily aid in growing
chicks, it lessens the cost of feeding. It also lessens the risks of flooding due to clogging of waterlines
as well as oxygen depletion in water bodies.
2. Spray this solution on the chicken manure. When the flies alight or the manure, their legs get the
erythrocin. When they get exposed to sunlight, they die in a few minutes. Erythrocin B in the flies, when
exposed to sunlight, creates a kind of oxygen that is poison to them — whether they are still in the larval
stage or already hatched flies. Erythrocin is safe in the environment because this stays only for two
hours in water, when under direct sunlight. However, in the chicken manure, about 80% of this dye lasts
for about a week.
According to farmers with long experience in chicken raising, mixing powder soap with the feed
increases the weight of the chicken more than does the adding of feed. This is because detergent aids in
the process of digestion in the chicken, reduces fat, and suppresses some parasites in the intestinal tract.
The amount is: 2 grams Tide (or powdered detergent) for every kilo broiler mash feed.
Share: 101 1 1 3 0 0
In the country, Chicken broilers have been raised in small numbers around the houses
as a backyard flocks, or on the farm as a small home scale venture for many years but
has shifted into a large commercial enterprise.
Poultry raising offers numerous opportunities for success. Chickens are easy to raise. Also,
poultry raising, as a family enterprise, offers profitable employment and recreation to the
members of the family. When managed properly, chicken broiler production, as a business
venture, offers substantial financial reward.
I. Estimated Investment Costs
V. Housing
Chickens, being warm blooded, have the ability to maintain a rather uniform temperature of
their internal organs. However, the mechanism is efficient only when the ambient
temperature is within certain limits. Birds cannot adjust well to extremes; therefore, it is very
important that chickens be housed, cared and provided with an environment that will enable
them to maintain their thermal balance.
• If possible, the length of the broiler house should run from east to west. This prevents direct
sunlight from penetrating the side walls of the house, which could cause heat build-up inside.
• Ventilation is very important. Allocate at least 1 square foot of floor space per bird.
• If constructing an open-sided type of housing, elevate the house about 1.5 m. from the
ground. This ensures proper circulation of air and easier collection of fecal matter
underneath the house after each harvest.
• The building should be rat proof, bird proof, and cat proof.
• Trees may be planted on the sides of the house to provide shade during hot season. These
can also serve as protection from storms or weather disturbances.
• The roofing should be monitor-type and high enough to provide better air circulation inside
the broiler house.
• In preparation for the arrival of the chicks, thoroughly clean the house with the use of a high
pressure washer to remove dust, fecal matter, or any debris inside. Disinfect the house and
all equipment to be used.