Cambio Rodamiento Cardan2

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Firstly the info on this part of the world.

Pulled my bike into an area in my garage where the repairs are going to be done.
Stripping the Final Drive off the bike and once rebuilt, to re-assemble it back onto the
bike. I cleaned the floor nicely with degreasing fluid and water. Clean to shuffle around
on my arse, that is. I am NOT fortunate enough to have a bike repair platform, so this is
going to be “low down, arse creeping stuff” Finish & Klaar.

Notice I have placed the bike on its centre stand , on top of the “Bike Skate”, I build a
couple of years ago. This makes it easy to push the bike around whilst working as well
as for storage.
Rear Wheel removed
Remove rear brake calliper by undoing the two bolts indicated
This is the only position on the FD housing that allows access to the bolts that hold the
brake disc.
Removing bolts
This little screw indicated, ( and another higher up along the drive shaft housing/ swing
arm) needs to be removed along with the plastic cover to allow the speed sensor cable
and brake hose to be moved away from the “action “ area around the FD. Especially
that speed sensor. (Very sensitive thingie)
A - Is the speed sensor.
B – Is the little screw holding it in position.
Speed sensor removed. This is also the only point where oil can be injected into the FD,
after draining at a separate orifice. This action is required with every service.
Speed Sensor and brake calliper, removed away from the FD action area. Safely
hanging over the R/H foot peg. FAR away from any harm.
Final Drive is now naked, on the bike, ready for removal from the drive train.
Upper arrow, indicated the torsion bar connection point.
Lower arrow, indicates the FD swivel point connection.
Both, now have to be removed.
Loosening the connection at the torsion bar.
Prying off the dust protection cap, to get to the bolt arrangement inside the lower swivel
connection point.
Clear view of the animal inside here. Size 24.
View of bolt arrangement on the other side.
Removing slowly, hold bolt arrangement on the other “rear” side firm.
One can see the see the shaft section crawling out.
This is the left, or “rear” side shaft assembly coming out.
Shaft assembly out, and now one can clearly see there is a neat needle bearing in
there. (also needs to be replaced)
Here is part of the shaft assembly. On, can see the inner spigot, (smaller section) and
the inner bearing “race” (larger section) of this bearing arrangement.
A view of the entire swivel shaft assembly.
We now have the FD separated from the drive shaft housing, and the drive shaft itself.
A – Is the drive shaft
B – Is the splined shaft which is the other end of the pinion gear.
C – Is dirt & muck found in this area.
It is very clear the protection rubber boots are NOT very effective.

Closer view of the splined shaft / pinion gear connection area. Muck, clearly visible.
Nice view of the actual drive shaft. Note the dirt inside here too.
Good view of the inner (or left) side of the naked FD.
To Start stripping down the FD, to get to the internals, entire axle, gears, bearing and
seal etc, we need remove this circlip, and get that wheel flange off.
Circlip removed. Just placed on top of axle. The flange seems to be heat shrinked onto
the course splines on the shaft.
Using oxy-acetylene torch, I evenly heated up the flange and pried the flange off the
axle . BE VERY CAREFUL, when using oxy-acetylene on this application. These are
aluminium parts, and you need to use a soft blue flame for heating, otherwise you can
cut/ melt and damage components.
Bearing now visible down there, in the FD cover / bearing housing.
A – Is the marks where the cover must line up later.
B – is the where the Crown Wheel adjusting plates protrude.

Also marked DF housing and inner cover components to ensure they go back in the
same place, and don’t cause havoc later
Loosen off all the FD cover plate bolts, and remove FD cover plate by gently prying it
out of its spigot on the outer housing.
Opened up. Found an O-ring seal on the spigot too.
A – Is the pinion gear, from the drive shaft side.
B – Is the Crown wheel
C – Is the Outer needle bearing, revealed for the first time.
Nice view of the Input shaft / Pinion gear
View of the axle/crown wheel arrangement, with the inside FD cover plate/bearing
housing still attached.
View of the crown wheel , after the FD cover plate / bearing housing was removed.
This is the “wheel” side of the axle. Note these gap forms in the casting, (arrow
indicates) these are the gaps, that the speed sensor monitors all the time. (Counts
down exactly 300m and switched off indicators. ABS control etc)
This is the inside of the main, grooved ball bearing.
A – Is the seal which ensures the oil in the FD does not leak out to the rear, or wheel
side.
B – Is the ball bearing
C – Is gunk and water found in this area. Which ios really in the depths of this assembly
!

1 What is frightening is that that it looks like the designers, rely on the “sealed” ball
bearing to seal up this area. CLEARLY NOT working.
2 The seals of this bearing were totally destroyed on the one side. Obviously the water
and gunk worked its way right through the actual ball bearing to reside on the other
side at the oil seal. Very concerning.
Closer look at this area.
A – Is muck !
B – Is the circlip that needs removal to remove the bearing.
C – Eyes of the circlip.
Better view of the eyes of the circlip.
I removed the circlip with a circlip-pliers (every workshop has to have one)

I made a special drift that would snuggly fit it the area available to persuade the
bearing to “part ways” with the bearing housing.
Drift in position
Cutting torch set with a lovely soft blue flame to heat up the entire FD Cover Plate /
Bearing Housing.
This worked super well. I heated it up until I deemed it good and hot. Then I tapped the
bearing to see how tight it was in there. It slid right out with a few more “taps” of
gentle persuasion. I did not even have to use my special drift to moer the thing out.
This now completed the stripping down exercise. Here the bearing is out and alongside
the housing.
Note in the top of the picture are two pieces of metal. These were the remains of the
one side of the “sealed” bearing. Totally destroyed.
Well, that’s it for the time being, until I do the re-assembly of this FD.

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