= =. wavayaws ihui ARAMA N ecg “dé s§ THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY ileullonFEATHERWEIGHT’ 9 CONVERTIBLE _— WHEN YOU OWN A FEATHERWEIGHT CONVERTIBLE sn it forms/a perfect ‘The;imachine and the foot-operated speed control are stored in'a convenient carry ing case with owing accessories. oom forSINGER’ SERVICE Wherever you go you will find dependable SINGER Service nearby. SINGER is interested in helping you keep your SINGER Sewing Machine in top condition. ‘That's why it makes sense to call your SINGER Representative if) your machine ever requires attention, He will submit a ‘written estimate for your approval. Look for the familiar Red “S” on your SINGER SEWING CENTRE and the handy SINGER Service Car, ‘EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN SINGER WHO SEWS ‘The answer to your sewing needs is at your SINGER SEWING CENTRE. There you il find a wide choice of buttons and thread, as well as Finishing Services such as covering buttons, hemstitehing, making belts and buckles, to mention # few. Look ender Singer Sewing Machine Company in your telephone 3 ELECTRICAL INFORMATION tory for the SINGER SEWING CENTRE nearest you. number of cycles can be verified by ooking at the name plate on the ‘MOTOR CAN BE OPERATED ON ineter installed by the Ioeal supply EITHER ALTERNATING CURRENT — guthority for mearusing the con OR DIRECT CURRENT sumption of electricity. Motors are available for all of the 1. The correct moter to use is one on commonly used voltages between 95, and 250, ani are suitable for use on alternating current oF dizect current. Special motors suitable for operation 9 fon 32 volts D.C. and ou 50-volte A.C. or D.C. are also available. YoINTS TO DETERMINE BEFORE CONNECTING. MOTOR TO. ELEC: ‘tate SERVICE LINE Dh tataghat ts teckel roy nd," altrmtlag” corel he TF current Which the range of voltage on the motor name plate includes the voltage on the meter. alternating the nem- Der of eyeles quoted on the meter rust be within the range of cycles fon the motor name plate, . Tn the event of there being any doubt about the supply voltage and eycles, this information should be obtained from the Supply Company.70 CONNECT THE MACHINE TO . other end of the cord to the nearest ELECTRIC SERVICE LINE electric point. Slide the foot controller (D, Fig. 8) to Place the foot coptisller in a con- thotight out ofits holder he Haat TEHeRE poson on the for athe the carrying cate and unwind the "chine is sealy:for operation. electric cord. Push the terminal plug at one end of the electric cord ca uRON. as far as it will go on the three-pin When you have finished your sewing, terminal block at the right of the always disconnect the plug from the machine. Attach the plug at the electric point. turn the bulb over fom you afar a ‘it will go, then withdraw the bulb. To Invert a New Bulb. (Press the bulb fate the spckes and-turn it over toward you until the bulb pin (B) faters the notch in the socket, as shown Ge ‘Tarn the Light “on” or “off.” by means of the switel A, Fig. ‘To Remove and Replace the Bulb Do not attempt to unserew the bulb. Iv is of the bayonet and socket type 70 INSURE PERFECT ACTION OF and does not unserew. THE MACHINE Do aot run the machine with the presser foot resting on the feed with- ‘ut cloth under the presser foot. Do not run the machine when both bobbin case and needle are threaded, unless there is material under the pprester foot. Do net try to help the machine by piling the fabric, lest you bend the needle, The machine feeds the work into the socket and at the same time without assistance ae70 PACK UP THE OUTFIT (See Figs. 2 and 3) ‘Put the box of attachments A at the left of cleat B at bottom of carrying care and place machine in case with Fig. 2. ‘Ailachment Box Canying Case To USE THE TUBULAR BED (See Fig. 4) By using the tubular bed itis possible to perform stitching operations on articles of clothing of a curved or eylindsieal mature whieh ‘would be inconvenient tr impossible to handle fon @ machine having a flat bed plate, Refer to [pages 33 to 63 for Appli- cation of Tubular Bed to Clothing Construce tion. The tubular bed tcasures 2 across and 17%," jm height, with a circumference of 14°. ‘There is a clear space fonder the tubular bed of 44". hand wheel at right, and base of machine at right of cleat B. Slide controller D from right to left into its Bolder G inside lid of case and place electric cord at rear of machine, Fig. Machine and Foot Controller in ‘Corrving Cate \ ‘To convert the machine, loosen screw E and remove tho cloth plate fand extension plate ansembly F by ppullingit tothe left. When replacing the assembly be sure to tighten screw E. FigTO OPERATE THE MACHINE Raise the presser foot H by means of the preser bar lifter J te. prevent 70 REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE AND BOBBIN (see Fig. 0) ‘Turn the hand wheel over toward ‘you until the thread take-up lever (6, Fig. 15) is at its highest position Rate the bed extension L as far as it 0 injury to the foot and-the feed G. Place a piece of material under the preseer foot and lower the latter upon i ‘Turn on the electric ensrent, place the right foot on the rest at the right fof the foot controller and turn the foot inward to depress the pedal. ‘This will set the machine in motion, the speed heing perfectly controlled by the amount of pressure which should be gradually applied. Oper. fate the machine in this way, without its heing threaded, wntil accustomed to guiding the material and opei the foot controller. ‘will go, and with tho thumb and fore- finger of the left hand, open the lateh K and withdraw the bobbin cas. While the latch is held open, the bobbin is retained in its ease. On releasing the Jatch and turning the care downward, the bobbin will drop TO REMOVE AND REPLACE BOBBIN CASE BASE (See Figs. 7 ond 8) Remove throat plate and take out ferew P so that the ib O can be displaced shown in Fig. & Turn the bobbin Fig?cate bs © 60 that the small point U TO WIND THE BOBBIN ‘nthe bases beneath the point of the See Fig sewing hook, as shown in Fig. 8 and : \ . take out the bobbin care bate Q. To Teie necessary to understand the stop replacethebase,revervetheoperation. mation fy wihith the hand. wheel /Y eam Be released when required, thus permitting the seinding of bob “bing without running the stitching mechanism. Keleare the band wheel by turing the stop motion serew X over toward you. Tt necessary to hold the hand whee! While Iootening the stop motion Place the bobbin on the babbin wind cr spindle and push it om as far as it will go. Put a spool of thread on the spool pin R and pass the thread from the spool into the thread guide §, n then under end between the tension side of the bobbin V from the imsid discs T at the front of the bed and Press down the bobbin winder pulley through one of the holes in the left against the belt, “Then press the foot controller as for sewing. ‘The end of the thread mast be held hy hand watil a few coils are wound ‘and should then be broken of, When Suficient thread has been wound upon the bobbin, pull the bobbin winder polley away from the belt fand remove the bobbin from the spindle. If the thread does not wind evenly fon the hobbin, loosen the screw which holds the tension bracket T in posi- tion on the bed of the machine and N slide the tension bracket to the right ee fr left, as may be required, then Fig. 9. Winding the Bobbin tighten the screw. 2To THREAD THE : Pea BOBBIN CASE oO ‘Hold the bobbin between the thamb land forefinger of the right hand with, 4 the thread leading from right to left, as shown in Fig. 10, With the left hand hold the babbin | sas shown in Fig. 10, th slot in the edge being at the top and place the bobbin inte the bobbi ‘Then pull the thread into the slot as shown in Fig. 11, and back under the ension spring inta the slot at the end ofthe tension spring, a» shown in Fig, 1 Fig tt Fig. 12, 13 TO REPLACE THE BOBBIN CASE « (See Pig. 13) VQ bobbin care on the Sentee stud A of the bobbin case hase withthe thread ‘After threading the bobbin case hold drawing. 1 the top of the bobbin its latch between the thumb and fore- ise the latch and press finger of the left hand, Place the ‘ase back until the latch phat tuad coer ta cect O-Mtud. Allow aout thee inches of threed to hang free, and turn down ine bed extension. Cantion.—If the throat pla moved for cleaning the stitch-forming. Imechanism, etc., make certaia when replacing the throat plate that the position finger A2 enters the notch 'B2 of the position plate attached to Fig. 1 the underside of the throat plate. u‘CHART SHOWING THE RELATIONSHIP OF TYPES OF FABRICS, THREAD ‘AND NEEDLE SIZES AND MACHINE STITCHES TO THE INCH ‘Tyrrs ov Fassics, ee ee et gia Sar | Te Sieg aieeeegad | arg cetmeer ut Delicate Fabrics ete. ‘0 Sik, — Sao ee ‘Silk Goods, te 7 “sa Sti ‘ = ae are ‘Plastic Materials 0 60 0 " 30 Se See Seas [SE ale ed “Goods ete. = " Saal ae ea ees Te Se | ee X Wen ordering et, aay se “Clad Vary SE and eh ar liye ‘You wil tan he shingle vig Masta 0 fal hw SINGER® Nelle (see Fig. 18) red the noedls er tat ts Uighceepestlon, and loot the crenata the needle camp. rier eee tote the aon ‘amp tothe left of siete eae Parricgeries “with the fat side of ey sine to te la iateera in ee Hlascrotlon, ‘Then Poatethnthreae ‘igsten the thomb Facet lomp sere. To slat tre nel, 6 age 8. 6 « ‘UPPER THREADING | (See Fig. 15) ‘Turn the hand wheel over toward ‘you until the thread take-up lever 6 ix raised to its highest point. Place “a reel of thread on the spool-pin at ‘the top of the machine, and Tead the thread into the thread guide 1 at the left, down, urider and from right to eft between the tension dises 2. Hold the reel tightly with the right hhand and with the left hand pull the thread up under the take-up spring 4 until it enters the retaining fork 3. ‘Then pass the thread up and back of the wite thread guide 5 and from right to Ieft through the hole ia the take-up lever 6, down into the eyelet Tat the ride of the face plate, into the ecevecaiy se ee geTO PREPARE FOR SEWING Hold end of needle thread with left hhand and turn hand wheel over toward you until needle moves down and up again to its highest point. Fig. 10 Poll up>needle thread and bobbin Unread will come up with it, as shown in Fig. 16. Lay both threads back under prester foot diagonally across the feed, as shown ia Fig. 17 to right lower wire thread guide 8, into the {ulde 9 in the needle clamp snd from right to Ieft through the eye of the needle 10, leaving about three inches ‘of thread with which to commence sewing ‘To obtain best necestary tha the size. stated for the ‘cotton, Hinen er silk, as shown on page 15. I zough or w fe osed, or iff passes with dificulty through the eye of the needle, the machine will not fenction tory. ‘The SINGER* Needle Threader saves time, trouble and patience and is she to those haying defective sight. for left, depending wpon which itde of the needle the material to be tated, 10 that when presser foot is Toweredy. the threads. wil be held firmly between ‘the feed) and the preaser foot. Rees Distinct Wmerkings on throat plate are to guide edges of teams and hem There. mae 3G intervals Fig. 7, Threads im from 1%" to %4" — Position fo Start in distance from fight of needle, a fabric uniformly. Gros plate indicate pivot point of needle then turning tquate corners. 18‘To Commence Sewing Be sure to have threa 6, Fig. 15 at ite Place material to be sewn heneath the presser foot, tun hand wheel to bring point of needle into fabric, ower presier foot, and commence to Pee er TO REMOVE THE WORK Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever (6, Fig. 15) at ite high: t position, raite the prester foot and draw the fabric back and ta the left, ppass the threads over ‘the thread ceutter (A, Fig. 16) and pull down lightly to sever them. Leave the ends of the threads under the presser foot. 70 TURN A CORNER Stop the machine when the needle eye, making its upward stroke, is stil in the fabric. Raise the prower foot and turn the work a+ desired, using the needle as a pivot, then lower the prester foot. ‘TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE ON THE MATERIAL Meitium light weight fabrics require an intermediate pressure. If sewing fine silk or filmy fabrics, lighten 10 pressure by turning the thumb screw (C, Fig. 25) on top of the machine lover to the left so that it screws up- tward, If sewing heavy napped fabrics increase the pressure by turning this thumb serew over to the right so that ‘serews downward. ‘The pressure should he only heavy enough to pre- ‘ent side creeping of the material and to obtain a uniform stiteh. Pile fabrics requite a lighter pressure than their appearance of thickness ‘would indicate and stitehing should be in the direction of the nap on napped fabrics and in the direction fof the pile on pile fabries. 10 REGULATE THE DIRECTION OF FEED ‘To feed the goods from you, push 20 down the stiteh regulator lever (C. Fig. 10) a8 far as it will go. "To feed the goods toward you, raise the stitch regulator C as high asit-wil go. ‘The direction of the feed can be reversed at any point of e seam withe ‘out removing the work from the Imaching, Back stitching is therefore readily accomplished and the fasten- ing of the ends of seams is made easy. TO REGULATE THE LENGTH or siren (See Fig, 18) ‘The machine can be adjusted to make from 6 to 30 stitches to the inch, as indicated by the numerals on the ‘titel indicator plate A.‘The number of inward until i touches the -stitel stitehes to the indicator plate. ‘The machine will ook "thatthe now make the indicated aumber of machine is set to stitehes to the neh in either a forward ‘makeisindicated or reverse direction, depending on by the number whether the fever Cis at its Lowest o which is tn line Highest pos with the stitch er Neeraliin relator lever ¢ change ‘the length of eee itch, screw the ‘est The longest stitch, No. 6 on the thomb ot B stiteh indeator, found satisfactory away from the)” Fig 18 for busting and ls eaaly removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withe il go... Then move the stitch regn- i a lator lever C until it isin tne with the rvier and anere stumber designating thedesiredlength even than that done by hand ta Of stitch and sezew the thumb aut B addition to being much quicker a TO SEW BIAS SEAMS SEEEEEEI Use a shartr stitch when sewing bias Tight Neale Tread Tension trcurved reame to inerease the clast- Ifthe tension on the bobbin thread is ‘eam too tight, of Bf thatian the needle ic too lose the bobbin thresd tril ie sah along the der ste TENSIONS {the sincera the For ordinary stitching, the needle iaaeSeE tnd bobbin threads should be locked Sisisis/s\s) ‘in the centre of the thickness of the boom 5. orcop-lplematabioagees eae te Caution s Tt in important for the tension than nat (By Big. 19) to ISSE55Ri Ivers ies ft on tenon stad (O, Fig 20) to keep the numbered Pare Sich D inthe pontion att fr the rea Ie the tension'on the needle thread js tension, To remedy a lose Gt ofthe teacaiit or if that on the bobbin net reieve pers, Dy BF and Gy Uirehdis eo Ibuve, the needle Ceeed Faqs 20, and aigtly spread the stud; Wil ie etaight slong. the ‘upper then re-auemble the parts Surface ofthe imatera, thus: tracted om pages 25 to 2 flu icity of the seam and to prev failure under strain.TO REGULATE THE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION (See Fig. 19) ‘The tension on the needle thread can be tested only when the presser foot is down. . The numbered dil Dis marke fed with arbit- rary numbers ranging from 0 to 9 whieh in- dicatedifierent Pe egress of ten- sion that tan®” Fig 19 Needle in ey ees ‘The numbers do aot denote a partien- larsizeofthread. By noting the nam- ber which is opposite the centre line ‘TO REGULATE THE BOBBIN ‘THREAD TENSION ‘The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by the serew A, Fig. 1 ‘which is nearest the centre of the tension spring on the outside of the bobbin case. To increase the tension, turn screw A over to the dcerease the tension, turn this rerew fover to the left,» When the tem ‘on the bobbin thread has heen once properly adjusted, it is seldom fnecessary to chango it, as a correct, stitch can utually be obteined by varying the tension on the ncedle thread. between the plas and aninus signs) on the indicator G whon setifor'8 eatioe factory tension ‘on the work being itched, the number'ean be rea reverted to when a change is made in the tendlon br size of thread. ACiedense the’ Tension} torn “the thumb not B over to the right unt the desired number om the dial D is opposite the centre line, the hig aumbers doncting inereesed tension. ol Bectenre the Tamtoayi tiie thumb ut B over to the left, the lower numbers indicating less tension, ‘Tha tesoutndidator © fisnarked th the signs +} and —, whieh also TndSésta the direction jn "which to turn the thumb nut B for more Sr lees tension TO DISASSEMBLE THE NEEDLE THREAD. TENSION (See Fig 20) ‘Turn the thumb nut B to the left ‘until it stops at "0" on the numbered dial, then press! in the dial to dis: fengige the pin C in the thamb nut from the dial, and remove the themb nut and dial, stop washer E, tension Spring F, indicator G and’ tension disc assembly H which ineludes the thread take-up spring, thread guard plate and two dises [Note : It is not necessary to remove the stud 0 from the machine arm to disassemble the thread tension. Tt is shown removed in Fig, 20 only for the purpote of illustration,TO REASSEMBLE THE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION (See FigS: 21 and 22) First_make sure that the tension scleasing pin J, only the end of which is chown in Fig, 20, is in place in the stad 0. 28 extension K, Fig. 20 of the thread guard enters the hole in the machine farm, and the tail inside the col) of the thread take-up spring enters one of the grooves. inthe stud. Next replace the indicator with the large ide facing the end of the stud the left) and hold the parts, thus 9 m if Place the two tension discs TL with ‘their lat thread-bearing sides togeth- ‘erin position on the thread guard M. ‘then pass the eyelet N of the threa: take-up spring under the thread guard, having the coils of the spring above the tension discs as shown in Fig. 21. Guide the tension dive assembly on to the stud x0 that the assembled, against the shoulder of the stud.” Then 26 Fig. 22 spring F in the indicator with the first (half) coil of the spring straddl- ig the lower half of the stud. Guide the stop washer E on to the stud s0 that the extension will he above the tension stud. Ifthe spring and stop,washer are in correct position, the tension and pull the thread through tension Swill clear the frst (half) the tension dises to test the amount ithe tomlon spriag'ea hows: of tension onthe thevag GAT“? Fi position, At this pois there shoxld Bea alight pul gh the thread. to y indicate that there is a minimum cere nade CASES ne recta ncn ieee oes Rib ee of the think ont to 2s create the Aigbeetotesstaineletalesaraet To ee encase ligated eee ape feseenesties Pediatr scien pub the dats | Figage If the pall is too strong for & mini- Se tum tension pres in the numbered pring so that the thumb nut can be dial to disengage the pin in the thumb turned on tothe stud, carefully nut from the dial, and reset the pin fruidinig the pin in the thumb nut in one of the holes to the left of the into one of the holes of the numbered previous setting. "Then ‘lower the presser bar This resetting of the pin will produce fnd turn the thumb nut B to the left less tension at zero. Repeat. this Gintil it stops at 0." Thread the process until the minimum desired IP CORRECT STITCHING I5 NOT OBTAINED tension is obtained. On the other Ifthe bobbin thread tension es been Mand, should there be no tension at disturbed. or a correct stitch cannot zero, prest in the dial and reset the be obtained without a very heavy oF pin in one of the holes to the right very light needle thread tension, then Gf the previous setting, repeating the following procedure is recommen- this process until a slight minimum ded: Uniug No. 50 thread in the needle tension is obtained, The tension on and on the bobbin, adjust the needle the thread take-up spring T, Fig. 22° > thread tension as instructed on Should be just sulicient to.take’up” pages 27 and 28. Then turn the ten the slack of the needle thread until sion thumb nut to 4" and, with two the eye of the needle ‘reaches the thicknesses of thin material in the szoods in its descent. Iachine, adjust the bobbin theead {tthe tension on the thread take-up tension, as instructed on page 24, spring requires adjustment, remove until the stiteh is correctly locked in the teneion disc assembly, disengage the centre of the thickness of the theend of the spring from the groove material, as shown on page 22. jin tho tension stud, revolve the A wide range of materials and threads Spring and place its end in the groove ean now be accommodated without which produces the correct tension, further adjustment of the bobbin ag thread tensionTO OIL THE MACHINE parts in contact are covered with a filin of oil, These should never be allowed to become diy. If used. constantly, the machine should be oiled daily, while with moderate use, an occasional oiling is Sufficient, A drop of oil should be ‘applied at each of the points indicated by the unlettered arrows in Figs. 24, 25 and 28, Oil holes are pro vided in the machine for earings which cannot be directly reached. ‘When oiling insert the oil can spout swell into the oil oles. ‘Tarn back the cover at the top of the machine and oil the moving parts inside the arm as indiested im Fig. 24, and occasionally apply a small quantity of SINGER Lubricant for ‘To ensure easy running the machine requires oiling #0 that all moving Electric Motors to the teeth of the Put one drop of ei into-each of the ear A, then replace the cover. oil holes and joints thus uncovered, | ‘Take out the face plate thumb screw as indicated in Fig, 25, then replace B. Fig. 24 and remove the face plate. the face plate and thumb sezew. TO OIL THE HOOK MECHANISM Oceasionally apply @ drop of oil at the hook bearing indicated by X, 26, Fig, 25, End View, Showing Oiling Pointe. 39OILING POINTS IN BASE OF MACHINE (See Pig. 27) To reach the parts underneath the bed of the machine, tur the machine Fis: 28 over oniterear side, Remove thumb nut 1 and take off the large cover plate 2 Take out screw. 3 and remove the tubular bed cover 4. 10 LUBRICATE THE MOTOR USE ONLY SINGER LUBRICANT FOR LUBRICATING THE MOTOR. A tube of this lubricant is sent with the machin SINGER Lubricant for Electric Motors is a specially prepared non-flowing ‘compound which is not affected by varying temperatures. It is the only lubricant which will positively Iubri ceate the motor, Other lubricants, including oil or ordinary grease, rust not be sed for lubricating the ‘moter as they are harmful for thi j¢_machine is despatched from the factory the two motor irease tubes A, Fig. 29, are filed with ‘ufficient lubricant for approximately Apply oll to the oll holes and bearings dicated in Fig. 28, and occasionally apply @ small quentity of SINGER Lubricant for Electrie Motors to the ears Z. Replace the tubular bed ‘cover 4, Fig. 27 and secure it with the serew 3, Fig. 27, then replace the flat cover plate 2, Fig. 27 and fasten it with the thumb nut 1, Fig. 27, being ‘careful not to turn the thumb nut too tightly Fig. 20 use, under ordinary Teast once every six months seafter, these grease tubes should be refilled with SINGER Electric Motor Lubricant. To do this, insert the tip of the lubricant tube into the hhole of each of the grease tubes and force the lubricant. through until both grease tubes are filled.of Applications fed Tibatax a, Se ei Geeeeee Dake tere Dont i + Applying Cue and ee + Seing Sleeve, i aS Stn Scaming Pay Clothes o roses wae ad Trower Lage os * Monogramming Pockets and Calis Allinching wai cure oc yi ae 4 2preseed prior to the stitching of the ingonal detail over the tubular bed.Cuffs are attached with a more con- venient handling of the bulk of the sleeve, ‘The tubular bed measures 7% inches in girth and extends inside a sleeve with ease, as illustrated.A sipper is inserted into the seam at the wrist of a tightly Geted sleeve. together, pressWhen setting a sleeve, the tub amit the operator to hold the while stitching. The eased tvenly disttbuted withia the the aleve eap, ‘Tho sleeve of the garment ie turned with fe inward and the ars. Hole pen te ited’ wi the aleve bald next {othe prester feat while the bulk of the \ garment rests on the table, Garments wi Fav ax Ao filld rasa ths arageeyeo ‘more securately itched onthe 292K Machine ince the tubular bed reached fealde the garment, making the line for stitching ¢.. clearly visible, OD os oy es ’ 7 Well Seam at WaistlineStitching at the waistline of a garment jx accomplished with greater facilityFat Folled Soams in Blas foans; sPatch Pockets applied with inside stiteh= ing and s0 difficult to accomplish with the usual sewing equipment, are easily done fom this tubular bed machine. ‘After pocket is finished across top accord- ing to styling, place two lines of No, 10 oF No. 12 stitching along sides and bottom, the first slightly less than the seam width from the cut edge, and the secon quarter inch outside the fir ‘of seam allowance fof pocket, Press away excess betwee yund curved portion hesteam to shrink the stitehings and lose to the second ‘baste pocket section to srment from right side of garment. a Batch Packet applied to GarmentHonichold sewing, cushions, slip covers, lamp shailes and all articles of cylindrical shaping are conveniently and accurately stitehed on the 222K. Machine, A popular method of arzembling sections for «slip cover attaches the welling to the shaped section, ‘vith the cording foot. The shaped section ix then pinned to its adjacent section and stitehed from the outside through the welting and the xeam allow~ lance of the newly joined section. The cording rolls over this owtude stitching making it hardly discernible.Especially suitable for millinery, the tubular bed et \de the crown or brim sections of a hat and without interfering with the shaping‘The brim and crown sections may be joined with machine stitching following ‘hand basting to properly ahs tribute the ease, This jot ‘on the outside and a headsize ribbon on the inside.Monograms are catily applied to calls or pockets of finished garment. ‘The tubular hed extends inside the pocket or cul and permits free movement af the hoops in ‘any of the stitches chosen for the sm. ‘These hoops are not supple bine, tat can he purchased ‘Binding Soove of Guilds Dros“While the tubular bed machine will be found convenient for many steps in general sewing, it is indispensable when making into sections where sd and resulte ia better ury7s r ‘The Belt. The belt tension should Tension being too tight. > eel aeerteaee Tirsed bait too ctene foe GOOUE tipping. Mt the tenon asia eS prea heseeeW Vigas uct aie gNerlal oe) ea eee tivo te ate te top Ponto bane aso Aownvard, Nowretghtentheserew lon nde onde ary SoU bet will befound to have the Stef eching The eis SINGER eects BO of ited aie ae ye Needles Breaking. See that ihe. Srvtd eit Sh! CENTRES sl he eraare ease eee oo aes Seite aegis eden ea Se eerie feet rea kaput ‘Avoid pulling the material and do not sew heavy seams of thick goods with ‘soo fine ancedie(see tableon page 15). Skipping of stitches. "The needle may Breaking of NeedleThread. Thismay not be accurately cet into the needle bbe caused by :—~ clamp. It may be blunt ob “A knot in the thread. ‘mall for the thread in use. Improper threading.TUL Ya a7 a THE ATTACHMENTS NOTE hore applying ony of tes attachments vase the auadte asd semsve the preter foot After substituting ‘he attachment turn the aluice whet slowly toward ‘ow i make sure thet the neale pases through the cemie af the needle hale. Put up bobbin thread ae instructed ‘age 18 THE BINDER scroll of the binder and-under the needle, lower. the \prevser-bar lifter Pass the binding throwgh the seroll and sew a= ueuale of the binder and draw it under Bias binding should be eut 4 inch the needle. Place the edge of the wide, to be bound between the ‘Te Bind with Dress Braid.—Proceed fs when using bias binding; but ax dress braid and binding purchased slrendy folded are narrower than bins nding they should be inserted in the outer slot of the binder. The edges of dress braid are not turned funder as in the case of bias binding. ‘To make French Folds.—Proceed a+ directed for binding, but pass the cloth beneath the binder-foot so that the fold is stitched on to the face of the material instead of on the edge.‘THE ADJUSTMENT AND OPERATION OF THE BINDER ‘The edge to be bound should be held well within the centre slot of the sezoll, and with a little practice this fin quite emry. If the material is allowed to slip away from the seroll when near the needle, the edge will not be eaught in the binding, Various materials and conditions require different adjustments of the Binder to bring the stitching elose to the edge. A wider adjustment of the Binder is necessary when binding ‘carver than when binding » straight edge. "To adjutt the Binder, loosen its small screw and move the scroll to the right for a narrower adjustment, or to the left for a wider adjustment, after which securely tighten the screw. through the scroll and thosld not be crowded in or against it. Guiding should be from the back of the and to the left, allowing unfi edges to swing naturally into the scroll of the binder. Never pull the binding as it feeds through the Binder, as bias material is very easly stretehed and would be too narrow when it reaches the needle. If this occurs the edges will not be ‘orned. When binding a curved edge, turn the material: only as fast as the machine sews. It is not possible to hold the material in the entire Tength of the scroll when binding small earve. Do not push the material in too fast, as the edge will then become pucker- fd, and do not stretch the material o os ‘To become perfectly familiar with the adjustment of the Binder, 1 little Practice is necessary BINDING OUTSIDE CURVES Practice is required to bind a curved ‘edge properly. The edge to he bound must be allowed to pass freely ‘ Fig. 31 Sample of Outsite mak for the curve will not be the proper shape when finished. Ifthe stitehing does not catch the edge of the binding the scroll should be adjusted a little to the let. BINDING INSIDE CURVES ‘This curve is found on nearly all garments which are Gnished with a hound edge, but practice is necessary fon various material When binding an’ inside curve, straighten out the edge at itis being fed into the Binder. When doing this, take eare not to ateetch the edge of the material, If the material is soft, like hatiste or crepe de chine, add « row of machin itching close to the edge of the fourve before bindingTHE EDGE-STITCHER A Combined Edge-Stitehing, Lace- Joining and Piping Attachment ‘Thie attachment is an indispensable whenever stitching must be Kept feeurately on the extreme edge ofthe material. The slots numbered 1 10 Sin Fig. 88 serve as guides for sewing together laces, inrertions and em= Drolderies, sewing in postion hemmed read ‘or folded edges, piping or sewing flat Draid to a garme ‘The distance of the line of stitching SEWING LACE TOGETHER from the edge of the material in the WITH THE EDGE-STITCHER slots can be regulated by pushing the 14 ig dificult to sew two lace ea mover hard, put s drop of el under dge-sttcher ‘makes it. posible 10 the blue springs then wipe it dy. yy stitch on the very edge. Place one edgein slat | and the ether in dot 4, fand adjust lug A until both edges are jught by the stitching. Hold the two pieces slightly overlapped to keep Fig. $5. Setting in Lace Insertion them against the ends of the slots. The thread tensions should be loose to avoid puckering of fine lace. ace and sibbon or other insertions can be set in by using the same slots Fig, 34 Sewong Lace Together (1 and 4). The material may befolded over before placing it in the slot so that a double thickness is stitched and will aot pull out. The Surplus material is trimmed away lose to the stitehing as shown in Fig. 35. PIPING WITH THE, BDGE-STITCHER Piping is very attractive if the cozzeet contrasting colour is chosen for the piping material, Place the piping, With its finished edge to the left, in slot 8, Place the edge to be piped in slot 4, as shown in Fig. 36, Piping should preferably be cut bias, and should be cut to twice the width of the slot (3) in the edge-stiteher 10 that it ean be folded once. may be sewn on hy placing the ¢: ment under the edge-stiteher, the same as under a presser foot, and placing the tape in slot 1 or 4. To make a square comer, sew until the turning point is reached, then remove Fig. 37. Applying Bias Folds with the or A ier n Fig. 38. Piping withthe Edge-Sttcner APPLYING BIAS FOLDS WITH THE EDGE-STITCHER Folded tased for neat and colourful tren jas tape or military braid, i the tape from the attachment ‘and form the corner by hand, replace it in the slot and continue stitching, a= shown in Fig. $1, To space two or more parallel rows, a guide line nach fs a create, chalk mark or basting thread should be used. STITCHING A WIDE HEM WITH THE EDCE-STITCHER A wide hem on sheets, pillow slips, ‘te., may be stitched evenly with the fedge-stitcher after the hem has been mearured and the edge tured. In- sert the edge in slot §'as shown in38 and adjust to stitch to the edge as desired, dle MAKING A FRENCH SEAM eeaieriaeee ee — ot er last ge aie ae oe eens oie bash eta can rarer etoey Fig. 30.4 French ‘Sean o> qvexinc wits THE eeiraen De ye ieee aes See tent ees A ceelaatemieness ip, sed djeting he cigs Sis ogni ne x Sit utec os 0 See distance from the previous tuck, and | ‘hen runt wath of the fold pon ee ee Cie eae eee cee eek 7 ae ™THE CATHERING Foor that drapes well is especially suited for shirzing with the gathering foot, generally with # long stitch and tight ‘To Shire with the Gathering Foot tensions. To increase the fullness of the gathers, lengthen the stitch. To Material placed under the gathering Re ee ae foot and stiiched in the usual way {Tease theClass, shorten ch willbeslightly gathered. Any fabric teh Fig. 41. The material may be guided as easily as when sewing with the presser foot. Fine materials, such as batiste, sik or net, may be very attsactively shined, as shown by the sample in Fig. 12.” The athering foot locks fallness into each, stiteh, holding it permanently in tion. Adjustable eased fullness is accomplished with the regular presser Fig. 4 foot. 6 A very pleasing effect may be gained foot, bby using thread or embroidery silk tatting thread on the top and white of contrasting colour on the bobbin, cotton on the bbb Fig. 4%. Shirring Fig. 43 shows a white organdie co fand cuff set with red and. green smocking made with the gathering Fig. 43. Smoching 76THE FOOT HEMMER HOW TO START HEM AT VERY EDGE The Foot Hem- 1. Fold edge of material twice, bout 2 mer Fig. 4# may "4 inch eacl tne, for s distance be used for ofahout two inches, Crease folds. hhemmingedgeof 9, Lay about three inches af needle material. making and bobbin threads back under hemmed and \ felled seams and for hemming and sewing on lace hemmer. Place creased edge of ‘terial under hemmer with end of hem dizectly under needle. Lower hemmer and tack end of Fig. £4, The Foot in-one operation hhem with two machine stitehes Hemmer 3. Raise hemmer. Pull threads and hem slightly from you with left hand; then while holding threads, draw material toward you swith wight hand into scroll of Ihemmer until tacked end is caught in hemmer, as shown in Fig. 45. 7 45, Starting Ham it Viry End of Fig. 46. Hemming Edge of Material anc ae Mae) oe “Butag ‘Beck Thread Ws Scoing 4, Lower hemimer and start to sew, slightly pulling threads back while sewing. Keep mouth of hemmer fall to produce a smooth, evenHOW TO MAKE A HEMMED SEAM ‘WITH FOOT HEMMER 1, When making this seam, the gar- ‘meat must first be fitted and the edge of the material trimmed, lowing for about ¥y inch seam. Tnsert the two edges of the mate fal, right ides together, inthe emmer in the same manner ss 9 IN Fig. 47. Mahing a Hommed Seam (rirst Operation). ‘wrong side up, then insert the hem inthe seroll of the hemme holding the edge of the hem position while it is being stitched, If the team is stitehed fat to the garment, one row of stitehing is Visible om the right side HOW TO MAKE A FELLED SEAM WITH FOOT HEMMER 1, Place the right sfdex of the material together, having the edge of the upper piece about % inch to the left of the edge of the under piece, Stitch the two pieces together, Tsing the hemmer ae a presser foot. Guide both pieces by the 80 single bem as shown in Fig. 4 If the material is bulky, place the ‘edge of the upper piece of material fabout Y inch to the left of the edge of the andér piece, "The free edge of the hemmed seam riay he stitched flat to the gar sient, if desired. ‘To do this, open the work out fla, Fig, 48, Making a Hemmed Seam (Second Operation) projection toc of the hemmer, as shown in Fig. 49. Fig. 49 Mahing a Fulled Seam (inst Operation) Open the work out fist, wrong side up, and hem the free edge of the seam, stitching it flat to the garment, as shown in Fig, 50.Fig. 60, Mating a Folted Seam Fig. 51. Hemming and Sewing on Lace {second Oporation) the hemmer and back under the hemmer. HOW TO HEM AND SEW ONLACE 4, Lower the presser bar and start IN ONE OPERATION sewing, catching the edge of the 1, Stare thovhom in the regular way. lace with the needle, 2 Hold the hem in position with the 5, Guide the hem with the right hand needle. and the lace with the left, being 3. Raise the presser bar and insert careful not to streteh the lace as the edge of the lace in the slot of it entors the hemmer. a THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER 1, Loosen the thumb serew on the \d move the seale until ter registers with the ber of the desiced width of hhem ; No. indicating the ni eat hem and No. 2, the wi then tighten the thumb screw. HOW TO MAKE HEMS FROM 4 TO" WIDE 2, Place the cloth in the hemmer and draw it back and forth until the hhem is formed, ax shown in Fig, 52. 3. Draw the end of the hem hack nder the needle, lower the presser bar and start to sew. Fig, 62, Showing How Adjustable Hemmer i ised for Making tems Up to i Inch a 5 rat aton wasy 4. Guide saficient cloth into the hhemmer to turn the hem properly,HOW TO MAKE HEMS WIDER THAN 4" te Loosen the thumb serew on the hemmer, move the teale to the ight as far as it will Swing it toward you, Fig. 53, and tighten the thumb 1. Fold the crease the d of het }- Place the fold under the extension at the right of the hemmer and the edge into the folder, ax shown in Fig. 53. J. Draw the end of the hem back under the needle, lower the presser hor and start to sew, = Guide the cloth to keep the hem Bot. RUFFLER Fig. 54. Principal Parts ofthe Ruger Fig. 68. Showing How Adjustable Hemmer ied for Making ‘Heme Wider than finch 8 Principal Parts of the RuGlet B—Adjusting Lever—sets rufler for gathering or for making a pleat ‘once at every six stitches oF once every twelve stitches, as desired ; also for disengaging rufler when cither pleating or gathering is not desired, FAdjustig Finger — regulates width of size of pleats, aG_—Separater Guide—contains slots Into which edge of material. is placed to keep heading of raf ven alo for eparating material to be raffled from materiel to ‘which rule fs to be attached. HRafling Blade—pushes matetial in pleats up to the needle. J-Separatar Blade—prevents teeth of fling blade from co into comeact with fed of or msteral to le or mace ere oN 70 ATTACH THE RUFFLER ‘TO THE, MACHINE Looven presser foot thumb serew and attach rufler to preter Bax, at the 8, Insert material to be ruffled be- tween two blue blades and under separator Fig. 5. Correct Position for Materit ip te Rafted 4. Draw m yhuly back of needle, lower presser bar and start 5, For fine gathering, turn adja screw € upward to shorten stroke, Sec the machine for a shorter stiteh. 6. For fall gathering, turn adjusting terew C downveard to lengthen ry a sams sen placing fork arm BudGioe otoedl Geog eg OS Fig. 58. Gathering with the Rupr 10 ADJUST RUFFLER FOR GATHERING 1, Swing adjusting finger F away from needl 2. Raine adjusting lever E and move it until. projection D can be ‘entered in slot marked "1. stroke. Set the machine for a Tonger stiteh, Fig. 67. Making a Rute and Ataching in One Operation TO MAKE A RUFFLE AND SEW IT ‘TO A GARMENT IN ONE OPERATION 1. Insert material to” be rufled bet separator guide (Line 2, Fig. 58),2, Place material to which rule is to be attached under separator blade and under separator guide (Line I, Fig. 58). 3. Proc gathering the same as for plain ig. 6 Correct Positions for Materials 70 MAKE A RUFFLE AND ATTACH AP WITH A FACING IN ONE OPERATION A, Insert” material to be radiled between two blue blades and under separator guide (Line 2, Fig. 60). Fig. 60. Coract Position for Materials 5. If facing is to be on wrong side, pplaco right sides of garment and rrullle together. TO PIPE A RUFFLE 1, Insert material tobe ruled between two blue blades from the ight (Line 8, Fig. 62). Thie ma- terial must mot exceed 114 inches in width, * 2, Placo material to which tufle ocala ata sedan 2 eceat to be attached under separator it with @ Facing in One Operation, Place facing material over upper bine blade (Line 4, Fig. 60). |. If facing is to be om right side of garment, place wrong sides of garment and rufile together. 2, The piping material is usually cut ‘on the bias and it should be about 'Yinch wide when folded in centre. Place piping material in rufler, following Line 5, Fig. 62 with folded edge of piping to right.12 stitches, have projection D enter slot 12" inithe adjusting lever E. Fig. 62. Correct Positions for Materials 3, Fold edge of material to which piping and ruling are to be attached and insert it in raffle, from the left following Line 6) Fig. 62. TO ADJUST RUFFLER FOR PLEATING Fig. 63. Pleating with the Ruler 1, Raise adjusting lever E and move until projection Dean be 2 Incert the material to be pleated entered in slot marked 6." The between two blue blades and rrfller will then pleat once every under separator guide (Line 2, six stitches. To pleat ance every Fig. 64). 70 ADJUST RUFFLER FOR GROUP PLEATING To make the space hetween the Fig. 64, Comed Poston for Materiel groups of pleats, raise adjusting lever Band. move it until pro- 3. To increase width of pleat, move \ jection D can be entered in small adjusting finger F back toward needle and turn adjusting: serew © downward, To make a smaller pleat, turn adjusting serew © upward. ‘The iatance between plests in regu Inted by length of atiteh, Fig. 65. Group Pleating with the Rafter 0slot indicated by star on adjusting lever E. The rufller will then stop pleating and plain stitching will be made. 2. When the desired spare is made, set projection D in either of slots Gor 3. Insert material to be pleated detween two blue blades and ‘under the separator guide (Line 2, Fig. 66). ‘Fig. 60. Corvect Position for the Material DARNING (see Figs. 67, 68 and 6) ‘Thread or yarn comparable to that used in the material to be darned is recommended. Fine soft thread used ‘with a fine needle will produce a soft, comfortable dara that will outwear the rest of the material Draw up bobbin thread through needle holein throat plates described fon page 18, leaving the end of thread M as shown in Fig. 69. Press down lever K to its lowest position by pulling its spring knob to release the which will at plate. neutral a 70 OIL THE RUFFLER Occasionally apply © drop of oil to the working’ parte of the rufler at the places indicated by the unlettered crows in Fig. 65.Fit spring damning and embroidery foot No. 171071 in place of the presser foot, taking care, that extension C slips into slot D, lug Ps above needle ‘lamp Q as shown in Fig. 68, and that ‘the needle passes through centre of hole in foot. Large flat work can be more com veniently damned by using wooden ‘embroidery hoops in which ir stretche fedthearticleto be repaired. Smaller oles may be darned by the wre of the special daraing and embroidery hoop, No. 171074. There hoops are not supplied with the machine but can he purchased separately. ‘To fx hoop No. 171074 to the machine, remove solid ring E from split ring [ and, while holding spl ring-and arm extension Fat right angle to machine bed, sip hook © into reet- angular hole Hin throat plate, ‘Raise foot lifter J\and slide split ring TL. under the Foot as shown in Fig. 69, Place material to be darned over split ring L and under the foot, so that the hole to be repaired is centred. in the hoop. Raise foot lifter J and place solid ring F under the foot and fover the material, then press solid Hing fiemly into place in split ving. When darning tubular work, such as socks or stockings, looren the thumb serew Sand remove cloth plate by pulling it to the left (also see Fig. #). Slide material to be darned over freeend of arm N, under a tabroidery foot and over sp ‘Trim the hole to be darned so that 4 ragged edge will not be left when the dam is finished. Run the machine slowly and move the hoop steadily with both hands in time Wwith the needle, cither back and forth or to the right and. left. After two or three stitches sre made, ‘cut off the loose ends of thread so that they will not be stitched into the dara. It is advisable to make Free instruction for usiog two or three rings of stitches around any large hole and thon’ to start Hitehing from one side across to the other and gradually cover the hole with threads sanniag in one dicection. When the hole is $0 covered, mote the boop in the other direction to ‘complete the dam with a few lines of frost stitches. After damning place the presser foot for ordinary fewing, raite lever K to ite highest position, and set stitch regulator to the required number of stitches. 1e machine is gladly given at any SINGER SEWING CENTRE “The Best is the Cheapest’’ Use SINGER SEWING “WACHINE OIL on Machine Knowing from many years! experience the great importance of using ood oil, SINGER ‘an extra qual Prepared for sewing machines 'y sewing machine oll, in cans,To ALL WHOM IT MAY. CONCERN ‘The improper placing or renewal of\{hie Trade Mark “SINGER or any other of the Trade Marks of The Singer Manufacturing Company (all of which fare duly Registered Trade Marks) on any machine that has been repaired, Febullt, reconditioned, o¢”aitered in any way whatsoever outside a SINGER factory or an authorised SINGER agency Is forbidden. Foe your protection ALWAYS LOOK FOR THE FAMOUS RED "8" AND SINGER Taon wanke ron auTHonicED WHEN YOUR MACHINE NEEDS SERVICING, CALL YOUR SINGER SEWING CENTRE Ano BE SURE OF WARRANTED SINGER PARTS ‘Ano SEAvICe ‘SEE ADDRESS IN CLASSIFIED TELEPHONE ‘DIRECTORY UNDER SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY