Professional Documents
Culture Documents
10 Chapter 3
10 Chapter 3
10 Chapter 3
GROWTH AND
DEVELOPMENT OF
NATIONAL INSTITUTES
OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY IN INDIA
3.1 Origin and Growth
98
mentioned that “the institute functioned from the national capital Delhi
registered as National Institute of Fashion Technology as a society in
1986”. It offered various full time diploma programmes and imparts
professional education. The administrative structure of NIFT in India is
presented in Figure no.3.1.1
Figure no.3.1.1
The administrative structure of NIFT in India
99
Fashion Design Technology education with establishment of five centres
each at Mumbai, Calcutta, Gandhinagar, Hyderabad, and Chennai. The
programmes conducted in each centre are need based to the industry as
per the demand of the society at large.
mn
design among users, manufacturers and common public. In the case of
technology NIFT has developed an understanding of appropriate
technology, while looking at needs for improving shop-floor systems and
practices. The technology education revolves around the needs of an
industrial culture.
3.3 Objectives
102
3.3.3 To Institute and award fellowships, scholarships, prizes
and medals in accordance with the rules, regulations and
bye laws;
m3
3.5 Functions and Responsibilities
05 Kolkata 1995
06 Mumbai 1995
07 Bangalore 1997
Table 3.5.1
A Chronological Profile of NIFT centres in India
104
NIFT centres located in India are presented in Figure no.3.5.2
Figure no.3.5.2
NIFT centres in India
ms
3.6 NIFT and International Collaborations
106
other lifestyle products are “designed” by craftsmen or manufacturers.
Often the traditional sensibilities provide with insights and solutions that
complement the total strength of an industry. The fashion industry in
India encompasses craft and cottage industry to large corporate. In the
prevailing scenario developing a relevant design calls for “think globally
and act locally”. The design education in NIFT incorporates this spirit
with professional capabilities of understanding national and international
markets, fashion trends, consumer behaviour, material and processes,
technology and production, presentation and communication skills
together with knowledge of local crafts and resources. The fashion
design department of the institute is playing a crucial role in attempting to
establish a fashion environment in India. There has been a consistent
effort to provide both design intervention and technically advance inputs
to the clothing business, which had existed earlier as a loosely structured
trade. The far reaching activities of “design cell” range from design
consultancy to conducting fashion forecast seminars across the country
for spreading awareness on movement of fashion for the future market
where in the apparel exporters make preparation to get their share in the
world market through the quality production. The accessory design
department deeply involved in research in the areas of jewellery
commissioned by “world gold council” to produce first ever “Design
Resource Book” (DRB) for domestic market.
108
from time to time. In this context information technology education of
NIFT offers various information technology oriented education and
training programmer to achieve the unique blend of knowledge through
the trained manpower. NIFT Resource Centres through their rich
information collection, conducted several orientation programmes to its
students, garment industry members, Faculty, Fashion designers, and
others who aspire for right information.
111
u
Z
o
Name of the Programme Discipline Specialisation Intake Duration
❖ Fashion Design 40
Fashion and Apparel 4 years
v Leather Design 40
o
❖ Textile Design
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Undergraduate Programme Technology 40 4 years
in Fashion Technology ❖ Apparel Manufacturing and Information
Technology
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Postgraduate Programme in
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Fashion Management Management
Postgraduate Programme in Technology <♦ Garment Manufacturing Technology 30 2 years
Fashion Technology
Table 3.8.1
Current Programmes at N1FT
NIFT
114
got eased with emancipation of professionalism via NIFT. The
Government recognised the fact that Indian apparel industry design
infrastructure, and industry needs designers who can harness their
creativity to shape the industry to take on the competition at global arena.
\
The socio-economic importance is attached to the institute
and it resembles in its various objectives. According to the Apparel
Exporters Handbook of Apparel Export Promotion Council “the apparel
industry is contributing lion share (i.e. 50%) of total textile export and
19% of total India’s export of all commodities”. The apparel industry is
the only sector, which generates more employment next to agriculture.
The role of NIFT’s socio-economic development reflected in each and
every activity the institute undertakes. It provides designers, a top class
material at considerable cost with the objective of producing the best for
the benefit of the industry and to the country. NIFT attempted to make
designers to play a major role in the areas of production, development,
design and quality improvement. The institute is committed to promote
the fabulous arts and crafts of the country. The artisans are spread across
the country working in pathetic economic conditions. The crafts of the
country are at risk of vanishing due to poor marketing conditions, un
favourable supports etc.
NIFT made the efforts to bring the creativity and the rich
traditional crafts of the nation to the forefront. The institute keeps
sending the students to various palaces in remote areas where the Arts
and Crafts exist to study, and to understand the intricacies of such
115
creativity. The students guided by the faculty interact with artists and
craftsmen and document the findings. Such findings will be presented to
the team of experts to gauge the validity. The arts and crafts have been
incorporated in design concept of the Institute. The concept is rightly
encapsulated as “Global Look and Local Touch”. A profile of Arts and
Crafts presentation by NIFT students is presented in Figure no.3.10.1
11fi
The artists and craftsmen’s have been given true attention by
the institute and the efforts are on to consolidate the fragmented creative
genius to bring on single platform. Various Arts and crafts studies
undertaken by various teams of NIFTs are presented in Table 3.10.2
Region/Area of
Sr.No. Title Batch Year Arts and Crafts Studied
Study
1. Himachal..... A Pottery, Doll Making, Gaddi Tribe,
1995-1998 Himachal Pradesh
Euphonious Mystique Thangka Painting/Applique
Kashidakari,, Suf, Kharak
u Dhanau (Embroidery Work), Mucca Work
2. Mirage
(Rajasthan) (Stitching cotton threads work),
Leather Footwear, applique work
Punjab: The Exuberance u
3. Punjab Phulkari
in Colour and Thread
Woven Dreams of the Weaving, Bamboo and Cane work,
4. “ Meghalaya
Khasis and Garos Pinewood Carving
Tanjavur
5. Tanjavur Painting 1996-1999 Paintings
(Tamilnadu)
Yakshagana: The Dance «
6. Karnataka Yakshgana (Dance and Drama)
of The Demi Gods
u
7. Passe Kerala Pooram, Puppetry,Mask, Kutiyattam
Kodagu: the Lasting “
Kodagu
8. Jewellery
Impressions (Karnataka)
Theyyam: A Deific “
9. Kerala Theyyam
Dance
Mats, Hats,Folders, Slippers, Belts,
10. Golden Greens a Kerala, Tanilnadu Purses, Boxes, Korai, Pattpai, Banana
Fibre
Sawantwadi Paintings, Ganjifa Motif, Toys,
11. Sawantwadi 1997-2000
(Maharashtra) Furniture
12. Crafts of Bhopal Bhopal Jute, Zardozi, Akar Gudiya
Tanglia, Motibharat, Mutwa
13. Bhale Padhariya 1998-2001 Gujrat
Embroidery, Patola
Molkalmuru,
Anekhal,
Textile and Crafts of “ Gandaberunda, Weaving, Colouring the saris,
14.
Karnataka Simhasana, Traditional Toys
Chennapatnam
(Karnataka)
Kolhapuri Chappal, Kagal for
Ghongadi/Blanket Weaving, Hupri
Kolhapur: A study of the “ Kolhapur
15. for Silver Jewellery, Toran and
Arts and Crafts (Maharashtra)
Baashing making, paper mache craft,
Kali Bahuli(Doll) making
Ilkal Saris, Kasuti Embroidery,
“ Belgaum
16. Belgaum Group Bumged Saris, Durgi Stonework, Jute
(Karnataka)
Bags
Parsi Embroidery, Gara, Tanchoi,
17. The Parsi Colony 1999-2002 Udvada (Gujrat)
Parsi Cuisine,
117
NIFT has undertaken projects on upgradation of “Khadhi
and village industry”. The aesthetic and quality improvement along with
design touch is given by NIFT to Khadhi garments. There are several
projects are in hand and the institute is committed to serve the society
with its human face and contributing for socio-economic development
while retaining the rich heritage and culture of the country in its
creativity.
119
art campus is an attraction to young and enthusiastic learners, information
seeking designers, manufacturers and others. NIFT New Delhi offered the
following courses;
121
Sr. Name of the Discipline Specialisation Intake Duration
No. Programme
❖ Fashion Design 40
Fashion and 4 years
Apparel ❖ Leather Design 40
O4*- 4^
O
Fashion and ❖ Textile Design
4 years
1. Under Graduate Textiles ❖ Knitwear Design
Programme in Design Fashion and
Lifestyle ❖ Accessory Design 30 4 years
Accessories
Fashion and 20 4 years
❖ Fashion and Communication
Communication
Undergraduate ❖ Information Technology 40
2. Programme in Technology 4 years
❖ Apparel Manufacturing and 40
Fashion Technology Information Technology
Postgraduate ❖ Apparel Marketing,
3. Programme in Management Merchandising and 30 2 years
Management Management
Postgraduate
4. Technology ❖ Gannent Manufacturing 30 2 years
Programme in
Technology
Technology
Table no. 3.12. 1.1.1
Current Programmes at N1FT, New Delhi
122
creative edge while imparting training to the people of the region. The
profile of various arts and crafts are presented in Figure no.3.12.1.2.1
Royal necklace : A five stand gold bead Jambai Carpet Weaving process
“nellikkaai manimaalai” worn by rulers
Source : Krishna12 : Arts and Crafts
Source : Krishna11: Arts and Crafts of
of Tamiinadu. Ahemadabad,
Tamiinadu. Ahemadabad, Mapin,1992 Pg.23
Mapin,1992 Pg.74
Kanchipuram Silk Sari with peacock neck Kalamkari art from Tan) avur
coloured body
Source : Krishna 14 : Arts and Crafts of
Source : Krishna 13: Arts and Crafts
Tamiinadu. Ahemadabad,
of Tamiinadu. Ahemadabad,
Mapin,1992, Pg.32
Mapin,1992, Pg.31
124
Bhavani Cotton Carpet with designs and decorative motifs in the centre
125
Basic colours in Tanjavur paintings
126
to uPgrade their knowledge from time to time to cope up with changing
technological impacts. Today NIFT centre at Chennai emerged as centre
of excellence developing its own campus with the assistance of State
Government. The state of the art building completed in the year 2002 and
the infrastructure is been enhanced to accommodate more and more
training programmes based on the needs of the region. The present profile
of the courses of the centre are presented in Table no. 3.12.1.2.2
Name of the
Sr.No. Discipline Specialisation Intake Duration
Programme
Fashion and ❖ Fashion Design 30 4 years
Apparel
Fashion and ❖ Knitwear Design 30 4 years
Under Graduate Textiles
1. Programme in
Design Fashion and
❖ Footwear and Leather 20 4 years
Lifestyle
Products
Accessories
❖ Information
Undergraduate 40
Technology
2. Programme in 40 4 years
Technology
Fashion ♦> Apparel Manufacturing
Technology and Information
Technology
127
The modem textile industries gave the city, a 21st Century
Skyline, while the banks of Sabarmati continue to look like patchwork of
colour, as clothes painted in traditional blocks prints are spread out to dry.
Gandhinagar and Ahemdabad are called triumph of civilisation-a truly
model cities which has neither continued to live in the shadow of its
glorious past nor sacrificed any of its old world charm while forging into
the space age with hard headed visions of the future.
Meghwals : a nomadic tribal in traditional costume Embroidered Wall-hanging in the bhavadia stitch
128
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Mashru fabric: silk and cotton from kutch Women’s head-cover, tie-dyed
Source : Crill 21: The Arts of Source : Crill 72: The Arts of
Kutch.Mumbai, Marg,2000 Pg.121 Kutch.Mumbai, Marg,2000 Pg.119
129
Royal procession painting
Source : Crill 24: The Arts of Kutch. Mumbai, Marg,2000, Pg.53
130
well-equipped Resource Centre are the attractions of the NIFT centre in
Gandhinagar.The professional courses offered by the centre are presented
in the Table no. 3.12.1.3.2
131
Hydrabad is a place having mild climate and in its glory a
towering gateway ‘Charminar’, Salar Jung museum, Osmania University,
Legislature Library, Ravindra Bharathi Theatre, and many more famous
institutes. Added to its glory, a National Institute of Fashion Technology
centre was established in the year 1995. The Institute began its education
and training programme in a leased premise, and with the generous
assistance of the state Government, the huge and state of the art campus
was built and completed in the year 1999. In its feather, the location is
made for NIFT, which stands just opposite to Hi-Tech City where the
information technology is blooming. The state of the art auditorium in the
campus housed many national and international programmes like Fashion
shows, seminars, workshops and various in-house activities.
NIFT, Hydrabad began its activities with the similar aims and
objectives of NIFT New Delhi imparting education for the following
streams.
132
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133
Name of the Discipline Specialisation Intake Duration
Sr.No.
Programme
134
paintings, embroidery making, hand block printing and many more. The
services are used and marketed through “all Bengal Women’s Union”,
“Karma Kutir”, “Nari Seva Sangh”, “Women’s Friendly Society” etc.
Also Kolkata is famous for handicrafts and handloom products. There
emerged a fashion clothes and accessories boutiques across the city. The
accessibility of fashion and fashion accessories by the peple through
many branded outlets like, Allen Solly, Benetton, Mexx, Ogaan, and
others made an impact on the fashion and lifestyle of the people. People
are active in carve wood paintings, leather art, mat weaving, bamboo
work, pottery paintings, clay painting, mask making, pottery and
terracotta, kantha and other embroideries, weaving of cotton and
synthetic jamdani sareies, Tangali saree, Ganga Jamuna cotton saree,
Shantipur designes for sari pallu and many more creative and mind
blowing activities.
135
- Garment Manufacturing Technology (GMT): Postgraduate diploma
of two years, with total intake of 30 students
Name of the
Sr.No. Discipline Specialisation Intake Duration
Programme
❖ Fashion Design 40
Fashion and 4 years
Under Graduate Apparel ❖ Leather Design 40
1. Programme in
❖ Textile Design 40
Design Fashion and 4 years
Textiles ❖ Knitwear Design 40
Undergraduate 40
❖ Information Technology
2. Programme in Technology 40 4 years
Fashion ❖ Apparel Manufacturing and
Technology Information Technology
The profiles of various arts and crafts of West Bengal are presented in
Figure no. 3.12.1.5.2
136
A Kantha shawl elaborately decorated pieces
137
Shantipur design with ansh paar motifs
Source : Sen30: Craft of West Bengal. Source : Sen31: Craft of West Bengal.
Ahemadabad, Mapin,1994, Abemadabad, Mapin,1994,
Pg.55. Pg.55.
138
Source : Sen 32: Craft of West Source : Sen 33 : Craft of West
Bengal. Ahemadabad, Bengal. Ahemadabad, Mapin,1994,
Mapin,1994, Pg.79. Pg.89.
139
3.12.1.6 NIFT Centre, Mumbai
140
The Garment and fashion business is swapped the city due to
the accessibility to vibrant and fibulas fabrics sourced through the
agencies form abroad, and massive domestic production of Indian fabrics
in many varieties, and the centralised apparel industries specialised in
Kids wear, Women’s wear and Men’s wear spread across the city and
employed lion share of man power. The city is having well-established
communication network through the Forts, Airports and National high
ways to make the development of trade and commerce in fashion a
success.
141
graduate course due to the demand of the industry. The following were
the initial education programmes of Mumbai centre
Name of the
Sr.No. Discipline Specialisation Intake Duration
Programme
Fashion and ❖ Fashion Design 30 4 years
Under Graduate Apparel
11 . Programme in
Fashion and ❖ Knitwear Design 30 4 years
Design
Textiles
142
take up the responsibilities of the region in the year 1997, initially at
leased premises, with the following training programmes.
Name of the
Sr.No. Discipline Specialisation Intake Duration
Programme
Fashion and
❖ Fashion Design 30 4 years
Apparel
Under Graduate
1. Programme in Fashion and
❖ Personal Products and
Design Lifestyle 4 years
Interior Accessories 20
Accessories
❖ Information Technology
Undergraduate 40
❖ Apparel Manufacturing
2. Programme in Technology 40 4 years
Fashion and Information
Technology
Technology
❖ Apparel Marketing,
Postgraduate
3. Programme in Management Merchandising and 30 2 years
Management Management
143
Production, International Trade, and Marketing and Management. It also
has a sizable literature on related fields like Advertising, Visual and
Performing arts, Natural sciences and others. A specialised collection of
books selected with meticulous care by the faculty and library
professionals form its main strength. The library has also acquired rare
and out- of - print publications of early 19th and 20th century, which are
invaluable reference sources for history of costumes and textiles of the
world. A model of sources of information collection development in each
Resource Centre of NIFT presented in Figure no.3.13.1
145
spectrum of the fashion industry. Most prized reference materials are the
fashion forecast periodicals. Exorbitantly priced, these seasonal
publications forecasting international fashion trends are the lifeline of the
garment export industry.
146
developments in the discipline. Relevant news clippings related to apparel
and textile industries and affiliated topics, maintained in the vertical files,
are most referred sources of contemporary developments. A qualified
team of professionals provide the reference service supported by the
collections of the Resource Centre and information culled from all other
possible sources including the cyberspace.
147
Figure no. 3.13.2
Designer collections housed in the Material Section of the Resource Centres
148
$ ,«s -**» <£» <y» «* -(St
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Source:Singh (ed) 3*: Saris of India. New Delhi, Wiley, 1993 Pg.246
149
Figure no. 3.13.4
Oscar award winner andfamous film costume designer Bhanu Athaia (left) analysing thefabncs collection
150
Figure no.3.13.5
Yam collection housed in the Material Sections of the Resource Centres
151
forecast seminars in the major garment producing centres. At these
seminars seasonal colours, fabrics and silhouettes trend information are
presented well ahead of time, along with related marketing and
production information.
3.15 Collections
152
• The RCs showcase designer clothing, regional costumes of
India and other nations. International collections in RCs,
NIFT, New Delhi include works of eminent designers such as
YSL, Chanel, Armani, Christian Dior, Dolce and Gabbana to
name a few. Among Indian designers there are collections of
Ritu Kumar, Hemant Trivedi, Rohit Bal, Sunit Varma and
several others. Creations of students of NIFT are documented
and inventoried in all RCs;
3.16 Services
153
• Indexing Service - An important research tool for easy retrieval of
information on fashion and related areas in the NIFT Resource
centres;
154
Figure 3.17.1
Current Model of the Information dissemination ofResource Centres
155
REFERENCES
2. NIFT: 12th Annual Report 1997-98. New Delhi, NIFT, 1998, Page
5
4. http://www.niftindia.com
156
16. Ibid, Page 132
18. Crill, Rosemary: The Arts of Kutch. Mumbai, Marg, 2000, Page
118-120
19. Randhwa, T.S: Kachchh: The Last Frontier. New Delhi, Prakash
Books, 1998, Page 103
21. Crill, Rosemary: The Arts of Kutch. Mumbai, Marg, 2000, Page
Page 121
23. Randhwa, T.S: Kachchh: The Last Frontier. New Delhi, Prakash
Books, 1998, Page 109
24. Crill, Rosemary: The Arts of Kutch. Mumbai, Marg, 2000, Page
53
157
33. Ibid, Page 89
38. Singh, M (ed): Saries of India. New Delhi, Wiley Eastern, 1993,
Page 246
158