Gardening Newsletter

Magnolias for Cooler Climates Vol. 8, Issue 4 - April 2013

A stunning Kobushi magnolia grown in Ottawa, Ontario (Canadian zone 5b).

There’s no denying the beauty of magnolias. In any garden, they make

exquisite specimen plantings and beautiful informal groupings. With some
125 species, including both deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees, they
can grow anywhere from 2m to 25m or more. Their cup- or saucer-shaped
blossoms, with prominent pistils and stamens, emerge at the end of buds that
often resemble pussy willows. The tepals (sepals and petals that are visually
similar) number six or more and are ovate or slender. Bloom colors, solid or in
combination, include creamy white, pink, purple, yellow and even green. So far,
there is no true red. Magnolias’ oval, smooth-edged leaves are slightly wider
towards their tips, while the lower parts can be lobed. A short stem supports
each leaf. In fall, the spirally arranged follicles of cucumber-shaped seed pods
turn green with rosy-red tints. A follicle produces one or two orange-red fruits,
each containing a large black seed. Supporting the lot is a trunk with smooth
bark that becomes rough with age, and fleshy shallow roots assisted by
impressive tap roots.

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 Gardening Newsletter
Magnolias for Cooler Climates Vol. 8, Issue 4 - April 2013

Magnolias thrive in rich, loamy, slightly acidic soil. It must be kept moist, as
their root systems don’t tolerate drought, especially when newly planted.
Mulching helps retain moisture and enriches the soil as it breaks down. New
mulch can be applied annually or biennially over peat moss (which helps
maintain soil acidity), compost or well-rotted manure. Azalea fertilizer or
synthetic fertilizer, perhaps 10-10-10, can be applied shortly after blooms fade
and again in late June. Several hours of sun per day encourages generous
blooming, although younger trees can tolerate semi-shade until mature enough
to bloom. Early-blooming varieties beat other deciduous trees to available light,
provided their blooms survive the frost.

The planting location should provide protection from strong winds, especially
nor’westers, offer good sun exposure and shield against salt spray. Magnolias
are best purchased in pots, as those bought balled and wrapped in burlap may
suffer problems due to hardened clay or severe root pruning. Staking is usually
unnecessary, as is winter protection other than mulch. Once settled, magnolias
do not like to be disturbed by unnecessary cultivation or another move.

Pruning is largely a “don’t”. When necessary, it’s best done just after blossoms
fade. Dead, diseased or damaged parts should be removed as soon as
detected. The removal of spent flowers will result in the absence of attractive
seed pods in fall. Also, next year’s blooms form on the current season’s buds,
so it’s best not to interfere with those either.

The lovely pale-yellow cup-like blooms of the Elizabeth magnolia

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 Gardening Newsletter
Magnolias for Cooler Climates Vol. 8, Issue 4 - April 2013

Nowadays, there are many magnolias of proven hardiness and blooming

capacity readily available in colder climates. These are largely pest and disease
free. For novices, Glenn Clark, a long-time and highly knowledgeable grower of
magnolias in Canadian zone 5b, recommends Magnolia stellata ‘Royal Star’ and
M. x loebneri ‘Dr. Merrill’. Both are hardy, vigorous and generous white bloomers
with good fragrance, especially ‘Dr. Merrill’. More suggestions can be found on
the next page.

M. stellata ‘Centennial’ (white) and

‘Pink Star’ (pink), both hardy.

The ‘Little Girl’ hybrid series (M.

liliflora x stellata), which includes
‘Ann’, ‘Betty’, ‘Judy’, ‘Randy’,
‘Pinkie’, ‘Jane’, ‘Ricki’ and ‘Susan’.
All are hardy with blooms that range
from mauve to purple.
The Loebner hybrids (M. x
loebneri), including pink-blooming
‘Leonard Messel’, aforementioned
white-blooming ‘Dr. Merrill’ and
yellow-blooming ‘Elizabeth’, ‘Yellow
Bird’ and ‘Gold Star’. All are mostly
hardy.
The delightful Leonard Messel magnolia
The saucer magnolia (M. x soulangeana) and ‘Galaxy’ magnolia (M. liliflora
‘Nigra’ x sprengeri ‘Diva’). Both are marginally hardy.

The lovely Oyama magnolia (M. sieboldii).

The new hybrid Magnolia ‘Daybreak’, which has large, bright-pink, fragrant,
tulip-shaped flowers, is highly recommended.
Great companion plants include all spring-blooming bulbs, bleeding heart
(Dicentra spectabilis), leopard’s bane (Doronicum), hostas and primulas. Ferns
and dwarf conifers provide companions from magnolias’ ancient past.

It is easy to become addicted to the subtle coloration and myriad forms of

magnolias’ remarkable tepals. With parentage tracing back millions of years,
a romantic past in the Old South, an inspiring presence in oriental art coupled
with the plant’s lovely foliage, soft-yellow fall color, range of bloom times and
blooms larger than those of most hardy trees, these harbingers of spring have
it all. Gardeners may certainly rejoice in the enduring and endearing beauty of
magnolias.
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 Gardening Newsletter
Magnolias for Cooler Climates Vol. 8, Issue 4 - April 2013

For more information: http://www.magnoliasociety.org/.

Text by Edythe Falconer

Photos by Richard Hinchcliff

Edythe has been a volunteer with Master Gardeners of Ottawa-Carleton since

1999, and with Friends of the Farm since 2004. She regularly writes for local
newspapers and gardening newsletters, and does presentations for various
gardening groups.

Richard Hinchcliff has been a volunteer with the Friends of the Central
Experimental Farm, in Ottawa, Ontario, for 10 years. He is co-author of For
the Love of Trees: A Guide to Ottawa’s Arboretum, now in its third printing. He
edits the Friends’ newsletter and is their website manager.

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