10
The Church of the Savior on
Spilled Blood, Saint Petersburg
City break – Saint Petersburg
Kevin Flanagan visits Saint
Petersburg, the city that nurtured
his life-long hero Rudolf Nureyev,
the towering genius of ballet
N
ot many people know that I was a
professional ballet dancer in my
youth. It can be a conversation
stopper. I fell in love with ballet
after falling in love with my
first sweetheart aged just 13. I
knew Caroline loved ballet, so I somehow
managed to wrangle two tickets to see
Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev in
Swan Lake at the Royal Opera House in
London. The year was 1967 and tickets were
like gold-dust.
I had no idea what ballet was but felt
convinced it would impress the girl of my
dreams. It didn’t and that was our one and
only date. But what I saw on stage that night
mesmerized me, especially the performance
of the young superstar Rudolf Nureyev.
Rudolf Nureyev and Kevin Flanagan
in Dublin
JUMP TO FREEDOM
Nureyev had captured world headlines a
couple of years earlier when he defected
from the Soviet Union by jumping a barrier
at Paris airport. It was the heart of the Cold
War, and Nureyev, a star of the touring
Kirov Ballet, was the toast of the ballet
world. But Soviet artists were kept on a tight
leash and the firebrand, Nureyev, rebelled
and literally jumped ship, claiming political
asylum in France.
Back home, the Soviets ordered his
assassination as a traitor but Nureyev
survived and went on to change ballet in the
West.
He also changed the course of my life.
I became determined to follow in his
footsteps and become a dancer at the
advanced age of 22.
Somehow, I achieved this impossible
dream (another story) and became a full-
time, professional dancer. In time, I would
meet and dance with Rudolf Nureyev
himself. And years later, I would make a
pilgrimage to Saint Petersburg, with a group
of ballet fans and take in a performance at
the legendary Mariinsky Theatre. It was one
of the highlights of my life.
A CITY FOR EVERYONE
But, Saint Petersburg is not just a city for
those interested in ballet. It is one of the
great historical cities of the world. Here,
you will see the unimaginable wealth of
the Czars, who governed Russia until the
communist revolution of 1917.
You will also see vestiges of the brutal
Soviet system that replaced it, and
monuments to the battle that defined Saint
Petersburg, the terrible siege during WWII.
This lasted 872 days and cost the lives of 1.5
million inhabitants.
ENDURING SIGHTS
But Saint Petersburg endured. The city
is now inscribed on the UNESCO World
Heritage list with 36 historical architectural
complexes and over 4000 outstanding
individual monuments of architecture,
history and culture. It has a staggering
221 museums, 2,000 libraries, more than
80 theaters, 100 concert organizations, 45
galleries and exhibition halls, 62 cinemas
and around 80 other cultural establishments!
So, if you are interested in culture and
ballet, you are in for a treat. On the ballet
front, Tchaikovsky created Swan Lake, The
Nutcracker and Sleeping Beauty for the
Mariinsky Ballet. This complemented the
exquisite choreography of Marius Petipa.
The Mariinsky also produced such dance
legends as Nijinsky, Pavlova, Balanchine,
Baryshnikov and, of course, Rudolf Nureyev.
Nowadays, you can see ballets in the
original Mariinsky Theatre and the brand
new Mariinsky 11. (To book log onto
www.mariinsky.ru)
HOW TO VISIT SAINT PETERSBURG
For me, Saint Petersburg is a city that has
something for everyone looking for a city
break. It is five hours away by plane so plan
Mariinsky Theatre
January 21 2018 Sunday Independent
FIVE THINGS TO SEE IN
SAINT PETERSBURG
Nevsky Prospekt
This three-mile stretch of Saint Petersburg is
the main artery and worth a stroll. Stop off
at the Eliseyev Emporium Coffeeshop at 56
Nevsky Prospekt, my favourite place to sip
excellent espresso and enjoy a rich slice of
Russian chocolate cake, while watching well-
heeled locals shop and chat.
(www.kupetzeliseevs.ru)
The Hermitage Museum
Take a guided tour early in the day to avoid
queues and you will be surprised just how much
culture you can cram into three hours. Don’t
miss the amazing robotic Peacock, once owned
by Catherine the Great.
(www.hermitagemueseum.org)
Peter and Paul Fortress
An oasis of calm (apart from the live cannon
blast marking noon!). Here you will see the
tombs of the Czars, stray cats and the sombre
burial room containing the remains of the
Romanov family, murdered, apparently, at
Lenin’s direct command in 1916.
(www.spbmuseum.ru/peterpaul)
Peterhof
The amazing fountains and grand palaces of
Peterhof, just 20 miles from Saint Petersburg,
were inspired by Peter the Great’s love of all
things Versailles. You can spy the gazebo where
Catherine the Great “entertained” her many
young lovers. The gold fountains are amazing!
To travel to Peterhof, take a hydrofoil from
the jetty in front of the Hermitage.
(www.peterhofmuseum.ru)
Yusupov Palace
My favourite, as it houses the site of Grigori
Rasputin’s murder in 1916. It is the most opulent
of palaces (the Yusupov’s were the foremost
billionaire oligarchs of their day). But the little
cellar where Rasputin was shot, complete with
waxwork figures, is eerie!
(www.yusupov-palace.ru/en)
a long weekend. Four or five days will result
in a trip of a lifetime.
If you are visiting the city I suggest
taking a guided, all-inclusive tour. It is great
value for money and you will need a guide
as most people do not speak English and
many signs are in Cyrillic. My favourite
hotel is the Grand Hotel Europe, just off
Nevsky Prospekt, with refined elegance and
the city’s top gourmet restaurant, L’Euro.
(www.belmond.com). But there are many
hotels to suit all budgets.
My friends at The Travel Department run
escorted tours to Saint Petersburg
(www.traveldepartment.ie). Or, consult your
local travel agent for advice.