Professional Documents
Culture Documents
RVA Traveler, Spring 2018
RVA Traveler, Spring 2018
2 0 1 8
ADVENTURE
AWAITS
AROUND
THE BEND
Drive, fly or float your way to
fun in Virginia and beyond
VisitVirginiaBeach.com
PRESIDENT / PUBLISHER
Richard Malkman
FROM THE EDITOR
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Susan Winiecki Tharon Giddens
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
T
Tharon Giddens
COPY EDITOR
Jack Norton here’s a place known as Granny’s below Comer’s Rock in the mountains of
Grayson County where it always seems like it’s 1929. That’s the year this cabin
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Chad Anderson, Stephanie Breijo, Bird Cox, on a hill was built, and whenever you pull up to this vacation rental property
Catherine Cribbs, Anne Dreyfuss,
Maureen Egan, Bethany Emerson, on 23 secluded acres, its old-fashioned-looking radio is set to a local station
Tina Eshleman, Rich Griset, Alexis Holcombe,
that specializes in bluegrass and classic country tunes.
Taylor Horvath, Erica Jackson Curran,
Paul Karns, Robey Martin, Sarah McDonald, This is home base for one of my favorite Virginia getaways, a place to sit out on the
Jessica Ronky Hadad, Genevelyn Steele,
Martha Steger, Joan Tupponce, front porch’s rocking chairs and watch the cows staring back at you from the moun-
Susan Winiecki, Ashley Wright
tain pasture across the way. There are hiking paths and a mountain lake in the nearby
national forest; a drive-up waterfall and antiquing and thrift stores to explore in the
PRINT ART DIRECTOR
Sarah Barton county seat, Independence; live music venues and exceptional barbecue in Galax; and
a pretty portion of the New River Trail State Park that’s easily accessible in Fries for a
GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Anna Thompson leisurely walk or bike ride.
Lauren Baldwin
It’s an unexpected pleasure that’s just a 4 1/2-hour drive from RVA. It’s also a trip that
PRODUCTION ARTIST exemplifies one of the delights of living here: Richmond is truly in the center of things
Rachel Lee
when it comes to traveling for fun, with mountains, beaches, vineyards and breweries,
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
John Henley plus world-class cities all within a five-hour drive or accessible via a nonstop flight from
Richmond International Airport.
SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES And that’s where RVA Traveler comes in. This is your guide to some outstanding destina-
Martha Hebert, Kelly McCauley tions well worth a weekend or a longer sojourn. It’s a compilation of some of our favorite
PRODUCTION AND recent travel coverage, updated to reflect any changes or new additions worth exploring.
OPERATIONS MANAGER
Scott Bunce Inside, you’ll find day-trip excursions, destinations for longer weekend trips and some
more far-flung locales that are a short flight away from RIC. Whatever kind of traveler
CIRCULATION AND
EVENT DIRECTOR you are, whether you’re a fussy foodie with a penchant for pampering, a parent seeking
Catherine Wolfe
some family-friendly destinations, or a solo explorers with a love of hiking and biking,
CIRCULATION ASSISTANT & we’ve got you covered.
OFFICE COORDINATOR
Kathy Emerson
VICE PRESIDENT/CONTROLLER
Elisa Malkman
Table of Contents
BOOKKEEPER
Ellen Tishman
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 3
6/ VIRGINIA BEACH
8/ PORTSMOUTH
9/ EASTERN SHORE
4 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 5
CREATURES
YOU WILL
EAT
Seafood in Virginia Beach
/ By Bird Cox
Under the Bridge Inlet and Eastern Shore style cakes, at Blue Seafood &
You can roll up to the Dockside (docksideva. Spirits (blueseafoodandspirits.com).
com), a restaurant and seafood market, in
flip-flops and yesterday’s shirt and fill a table Beyond the Sea
with perfectly steamed shrimp, fresh Eastern Those less inclined to the sea diet have plenty to enjoy
Shore oysters, buttery Bay crabs and clams in Virginia Beach, too. You’ll find lunch classics at Taste
casino, then grab some fresh porgy fillets or Unlimited (multiple locations, including Richmond, taste.
Clockwise from top: Virginia Beach Neptune Festival; Cameron Davidson/Virginia Tourism Corp.;
any of the umpteen types of fish that they sell online.com), fantastic Chinese at two Peter Chang locations
at the market, to prepare for dinner. Bonus 1: They (sister restaurants to the locations in Short Pump and Scott’s
Broiled seafood
have a shockingly long wine list. Bonus 2: There’s a Addition), and quirky delicacies such as mushroom and triple
medley at
sparkling blue, seagull-dotted view across which Blue Seafood cream brie pizza at Eat: An American Bistro (eatbistro.net).
the Lesner Bridge stretches its legs.
Under the Volcano
Under the Sea If the words “Indonesian volcanic island” pique
Indulge your taste buds and get an introduction your interest, visit the Virginia Aquarium & Ma-
to some of Virginia Beach’s finest bistros at the rine Science Center (virginiaaquarium.com),
Spring Wine + Food Festival (neptunefestival. which also features a Chesapeake Bay Touch
com), May 12 at Neptune’s Park, 31st Street at Pool and an adventure park with a zip line that
Atlantic Avenue. The 15th annual festival features runs above Owl Creek.
70 wines and food from several local restaurants,
including Catch 31 (catch31.com) and Salacia Stay
(salaciavb.com). Wines are from nine counties IN THE KNOW Barclay Cottage Bed & Breakfast (barclay
and include Virginia wines from Byrd Cellars cottage.com) offers some spectacular ameni-
If the beach isn’t your
(byrdcellars.com) in Goochland and Norfolk’s ties: bicycles, beach gear, homemade cookies
typical destination in
Courtesy Blue Seafood & Spirits
Mermaid Winery (mermaidwinery.com). winter, consider making and a nip of sherry in the evening. Located just a
Other seaworthy highlights include Pasta e an exception; it’s the couple of blocks from the surf, Barclay’s the best
Pani’s (pastaepanionline.com) brilliant, garlicky best time of the year to bet for your summer home away from home.
enjoy certain sea crea-
spaghettini Positano with clams, calamari and Beach Spa Bed & Breakfast (beachspabnb.
tures like oysters, which
shrimp (for extra luxury, beg them to serve it com) combines the cozy charm of a beachy B&B
usually spawn in the
over their house-made linguini). summer, and lobsters, with the luxury of a day spa, and it offers facials
You also want to indulge in the Signature whose shells get too and hot stone massages, hydro body massage
Broiled Lump Crab Cakes, a fusion of Rudee soft in warmer waters. elements, rainfall showers, and jetted tubs.
6 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
A Taste of Gloucester
Make the western portion of In Gloucester, stop to see Daniel and Bruce Vogt at Big Island
Virginia’s Oyster Trail a weekend Aquaculture (bigislandaquaculture.com), and take a walk
around the farm. The Vogts use floating cages to grow their
excursion / By Robey Martin triploid (non-spawning, year-round) oysters, resulting in top-
raised bivalves that are both creamy and salty.
Similar to wine or coffee, a multitude of environ- Swing by Yolanda’s On Main (yolandasonmain.com), a
mental factors can influence the taste of an oyster, family-owned clothing and jewelry shop, to talk jewelry with
from water salinity to the sediment it filters. You Yolanda herself, buy a Bed Stu belt or pick up a new
can discover eight distinct varieties along Michael Stars shirt. When peckish again, stroll
Virginia’s Oyster Trail (540-886-1684, through the small town and visit Kelsick Spe-
virginiaoystertrail.com). Start with cialty Market (kelsickmarket.com), another
an easy weekend excursion around family-owned establishment. Take in their
Irvington and Gloucester on the wine tasting on Fridays or sample the im-
western side of the Chesapeake Bay. pressive beer collection and learn what to
pair with your next oyster session.
Muddying the Water End your evening in one of the guest
While in Irvington, check out the Hope and rooms at The Inn at Warner Hall (warner
Glory Inn (hopeandglory.com). The converted hall.com), which was established in the
schoolhouse has six rooms and six detached 1600s. Complimentary breakfasts include
cottages. Have Meseret Crockett, the inn’s ever- a choice of two entrees, served in the dining
present manager and executive chef, stir up a re- room or on the river porch. The bed-and-breakfast
Kelsick Specialty
laxing combination of Amaretto, Kahlua and Bailey’s also has a complimentary wine and cheese social
Market Manager
Irish Cream liqueurs, or enjoy her food at Dining Hall, Megan Brockman hour, beginning at 4:30 p.m. each day.
the inn’s boat-to-table restaurant
($72 per person prix fixe, reservations
required).
A Taste of Topping
If educational excursions (with deli-
Top: Kelsick Specialty Market; Bottom: Courtesy Rappahannock Oyster Co. /TylerDarden
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 7
Clockwise from top: Virginia Sports Hall of Fame & Museum; Courtesy City of Portsmouth;
A must-do on High Street
is the Commodore Theatre
(commodoretheatre.com), a
restored 1945 Art Deco-style
movie theater presenting
Easy-Walking City first-run films — and dining
We took the walking tour of Olde Towne (old service in the main auditorium. Place an order
etowneportsmouth.com) with the living-history directly with the kitchen by using the phone at Mass Communication Specialist Seaman Victoria Granado
persona of “William Crawford,” Portsmouth’s your table.
planner, who laid out the city in 1752. His anec- Stroll several blocks down to the water-
dotal humor kept the overview — built around front and you’ll find the Portsmouth Light-
the restored 18th- and 19th-century buildings ship Museum (portsmouthnavalshipyard
at the beginning of the tour — lively. museum.com), a 1915 lightship, that served as
The tour reoriented us to the easy access GOOD TO KNOW part of the U. S. Lighthouse Service until it was
between old and new sections of the city. At the retired and designated a National Historic Land-
Norfolk Naval Shipyard,
end, we found ourselves at the corner of High mark in 1989. The nearby Portsmouth Naval
the nation’s oldest dry-
and Middle streets, and the Children’s Museum dock facility, is actually Shipyard Museum, which chronicles 250 years
of Virginia (childrensmuseumvirginia.com). The in Portsmouth. It was of Portsmouth and naval history, is set to reopen
museum capitalizes on Portsmouth’s bustling named for its sister city in January 2018 following renovations.
in the 19th century be-
port with hands-on and role-play experiences on For overnights, we recommend the Renais-
cause there was already
the operation of tugboats and the importation sance Portsmouth-Norfolk Waterfront Hotel
a U.S. Navy shipyard by
and export of goods. There’s also planetarium that name near Ports- (757-673-3000). It overlooks the river and is lo-
and a train exhibit, too. Tom — a railroad buff — mouth, New Hampshire. cated in the historic district.
8 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Christmas by
the Sea
BACK TO
Between Christmas and
New Year’s, our family loves
THE ISLANDS
pulling on cozy sweaters
(average December air
temperature is 50 degrees)
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 9
Please, Please Me
Satisfy your lunch cravings at one
of the many restaurants dotting the
downtown area near the beach, or
head to The Veggie Wagon (theveg-
giewagon.com). It’s the go-to place
for everything from gelato to growl-
ers, house-made pickles to imported
Parmigiano-Reggiano, and sundries
to sandwiches. You can satisfy break-
fast and lunch needs and stir up the
ingredients for a great dinner, as well.
If you’re there on a weekend, pick up
their freshly made mozzarella.
(BEACH)
After a few more hours on the beach,
grab dinner at any number of the town’s
ON MY MIND
restaurants before hitting the after-dark
carnival rides near the boardwalk. In ad-
dition to many other options, your dining
Coastal town mixes retro choices include upscale fare from Ocean
Grill (oceangrilltiki.com) at the Golden Sands,
attractions with modern-day Catfish
Banh Mi at surprisingly good sushi at Nikki’s Gourmet and
developments / By Paul Karns The Surf
House
Sushi Bar (nikkissushibar.com), or solid Mexican
fare at El Cazador (elcazadormex.com).
Carolina Beach in North Carolina is a four-hour drive After dinner, follow the lights to the rides — or hang with the
from Richmond, just close enough to load up some big kids at The Fat Pelican (thefatpelican.com). Nearly every
tunes and head down the highway for a quick week- surface at this dive bar and beer garden is covered with visitors’
end escape. It’s a blend of old-school boardwalk and signatures and carved notes, and you’ll find nearly 300 beers in
beach town, with modern hotels that contrast with a refrigerated walk-in. Rated as one of the best dive bars in the
1950s-style motor inns. Ample restau- state and even the country, the Pelican Top left and bottom center: Courtesy Wilmington and Beaches
rants and bars satisfy all tastes. deserves its own feature.
Wake Up Boo!
Convention and Visitors Bureau; Inset: Tina Eshleman
10 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Stay
Originally opened in 1985,
the Sanderling Resort Cape Point
(sanderling-resort.com) in
the beach town of Duck is
situated on 113 acres between the Currituck Sound and the Atlantic rants-and-bars/kimballs-kitchen) serves seafood caught at the
Ocean. This resort has 120 guest rooms and suites, five vacation Oregon Inlet — about 20 miles from the restaurant. The upscale
homes, four restaurants, a 6,000-square-foot, award-winning spa restaurant maintains the coastal casual environment of the
offering seasonal specials, and other amenities, includ- Outer Banks, while serving food you would expect from a AAA
ing an adults-only pool, fire pits and an upstairs four-diamond establishment. Take a seat at the bar in the late
deck overlooking the Atlantic. afternoon and enjoy a view of the Currituck Sound sunset
reflecting on the mirror behind the bar.
Eat
Play
Top and bottom: Courtesy Outer Banks Visitors Bureau; Center: Courtesy The Sanderling
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 11
Escape
History and romance meet where the Potomac River meets the Chesapeake Bay …
come stay in one of our historic inns and enjoy days filled with secluded beaches,
wine and heritage trails, quaint towns, and pristine nature.
Bullets:
· Home to Virginia’s Finest Oysters
· Try our 13 Unique Experiences
· Explore our Foodie Guide
Your Getaway · Experience our Signature Events
is Only an
Hour Away
· Home to Virginia’s
Finest Oysters
· Try our 13 Unique
Experiences
· Explore our Foodie Guide
· Experience our
Signature Events VirginiasRiverRealm.com
MOUNTAINS FULL OF
FOOD AND BREWS,
HIKES AND BIKE
RIDES AND SOME
SHAKESPEAREAN
DELIGHTS, TOO.
16/ HARRISONBURG
18/ LEXINGTON
19/ STAUNTON
20/ WYTHEVILLE
21/ ABINGDON
14 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 15
SIZED CHARM
Food Bar Food
Take a Hike
With the Shenandoah Valley
as the city’s backyard, it only
makes sense that guests get
caught up in hiking, cavern
exploring and breathtak-
ing views. Most of the more
popular hiking trails start on
Skyline Drive (visitskyline
drive.org), accessible at Swift
Run Gap about 23 miles east
of the city off U.S. Highway 33.
If you are a novice, start with
the Blackrock Summit trail, a Skyline Drive For beer and burgers, make your way to
mile-long circuit with a trailhead at mile marker the original Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint
84.4. It offers a gorgeous, encompassing view of (jackbrownsjoint.com), the chain from two col-
the valley. lege friends with a dream. (There’s also a location
in Richmond at 5810 Grove Ave.)
Enjoy a Brew Then there’s The Golden Pony (goldenponyva.com), a local
Harrisonburg is home to several breweries, with two sporting hangout, whose name originates from the novel “The Outsiders”
Great American Beer Festival awards: Pale Fire Brewing Co. by S.E. Hinton. Want to sample a bit of everything? Rocktown
and Brothers Craft Brewing. The three Shifflett brothers opened Bites (rocktownbites.com) offers a downtown walking tour that
Brothers Craft Brewing (brotherscraftbrewing.com) in 2012. will introduce you to seven different restaurants.
Top: Courtesy Food Bar Food; Inset: Courtesy visitskylinedrive.org
It’s known for Resolute, its Russian imperial stout lauded for its
intense flavor profile and high ABV. Historic Lodging
Pale Fire Brewing (palefirebrewing.com) was founded in To really get a feel for the charming nature of Harrisonburg,
2015. The brewery touts its focus on creativity as the reason stay in one of its historic homes that have been converted into
behind Salad Days, its award-winning American saison. bed and breakfast inns.
The Joshua Wilton House (joshuawilton.com) is a Victorian
And Some Fine Food, Too mansion converted into a restaurant, lounge and inn. Its five
After hiking and imbibing, take a trip to one of Harrisonburg’s rooms provide views of downtown or the gorgeous patio and
many great restaurants. For something a little out of the ordi- garden. If you are too tired to head back out after a day of fun,
nary, try the kaya toast at Food Bar Food (foodbarfood.com). dinner is served nightly.
The dish has a coconut-kaya custard served on toast with fried Just minutes from downtown, there’s By the Side of the Road
eggs, asparagus and a soy sauce reduction. Inn & Cottages (bythesideoftheroad.com). This complex with a
The Little Grill Collective (lilgrill.com), is open for breakfast large structure and five cottages was at one time a Mennonite
and lunch. This all-local eatery has quite a following for its take church and also served as a hospital during the Civil War. Take
on free-range barbecued chicken and organic seasonal veg- in some history there, and enjoy the luxury of having a gourmet
gie burrito. breakfast delivered to your room or cottage each morning.
16 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
AT SMITH
horse barn.
MOUNTAIN LAKE
Stay
Don’t fret if you’re not lucky enough to have family or friends
with a house at Smith Mountain Lake (smithmountainlake
From boating to fish feeding, it’s all rentals.com). Rentals vary depending on location, number of
about the water at this deep-water bedrooms and length of stay. Just like at the ocean, prices are
lower in the off-season (post Labor Day to pre Memorial Day
getaway / By Sarah K. McDonald weekend); some homes can be rented for less than a week with
a two-night minimum.
Smith Mountain Lake is a great place for a week- Camping and cabins are available at Smith Mountain Lake
end of boating, swimming or just sitting on a deck, State Park (dcrvirginia.gov). There are trails and a public, sandy
watching the sun set. beach at the park.
Located about an hour southeast of Roanoke and
about a three-hour drive southwest from Richmond,
Smith Mountain Lake
Smith Mountain Lake was formed in 1966 when the
American Electric Power Co. dammed the Black-
water and Roanoke rivers to produce electricity via
turbine generators.
On the Water
The Smith Mountain Lake dam
(540-985-2587) itself is an interest-
ing destination. Adults will appreci-
ate the awesome task of building
the dam, and kids will love the in-
teractive exhibits.
The real attraction of Smith
Mountain Lake, of course, is the
lake, with a depth that aver-
ages 55 feet. Bring your own
watercraft if you have it; other-
wise several outlets offer rent-
als (Bridgewater Boat Rentals,
bridgewaterplaza.com/marina.
html; State Park Rentals, bridgewaterplaza.com/ Historical re-enactors Eat
statepark.html). If you’re new to boating, though, at Burroughs Farm The Blackwater Café (theblackwatercafe.com)
Top and bottom: Smith Mountain Lake Chamber of Commerce;
Inset: Courtesy NPS/Booker T. Washington National Monument
be sure you understand the rules of the water first, opens for dinner, Wednesday through Saturday, at
which are basically the same as the rules of the road. 5 p.m. The menu includes shrimp and grits ($9.99), Pork
Bahn Mi ($13.99) and a grilled bone-in pork chop ($19.99).
Discover For a treat between meals, order a cone at the Ice Cream Cot-
Along the way, stop at Burroughs Farm (nps.gov/bowa) in Frank- tage (540-721-1305). You’ll find more than 20 flavors of Hershey’s
lin County. It’s the birthplace of Booker T. Washington, who was ice cream here, including the best birthday-cake ice cream my
born into slavery and went on to found the Tuskegee Institute husband and I have ever tried.
DON’T MISS
After our then-toddler son fed the equivalent of an entire box of Cheerios to the ducks by my in-laws’
dock, we heard about some huge carp at Bridgewater Marina (bridgewaterplaza.com) that needed
some food. We hopped in the boat, bought a bag of popcorn and let my son go to work dropping
kernels into the water off the dock. The sheer volume and size of these fish is astounding. Even more
amazing was the tween boy who postured for his posse by pulling one of the giants up onto the dock.
He sure impressed us.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 17
AND JAUNTS VMI’s Friday afternoon full-dress parade had just ended, so the
cozy diner booths were filling with cadets in starched grays order-
ing pimento cheese with skillet cornbread and red pepper jelly.
Eclectic adventures await in Lexington For the main course, I headed to Washington Street and
/ By Genevelyn Steele the quaint, gingerbread-trimmed dining room of The Red Hen
(redhenlex.com), Lexington’s first farm-to-table restaurant.
As I slide into a parking spot in downtown Across Washington Street, the modest Stonewall Jackson
Lexington, a welcoming wave from a local reminds House (vmi.edu/museums-and-archives/stonewall-jackson-
me of Tolstoy’s chestnut regarding plot lines: “All house/) offered a glimpse of how the general lived with his
great literature is one of two stories; a man goes on family before the Civil War.
a journey or a stranger comes to town.” After a spicy cup of Red Hen tea, mixed for the restaurant
by Lexington’s Soothing Herbals Apothecary, I set out for the
90-minute walking tour.
A stranger comes to town Cline’s droll, lantern-lighted impersonations ended in
At first glance this undulating, walkable historic the Stonewall Jackson Memorial Cemetery with illu-
county seat, named for the Revolutionary war sion, as he levitated a match in front of a looming
battle of Lexington-Concord in Massachusetts, statue of Stonewall Jackson, one of two statues
doesn’t look as if it has crossed into the 21st in town designed by Richmond sculptor Ed-
century. Utility lines are hidden under brick ward Valentine. The other, a bust of Robert E.
sidewalks running by Victorian, Antebellum Lee, adorns the Lee Chapel at Washington and
and Georgian-style houses. Lee. Jackson and Lee are buried in Lexington.
Take a closer look at those walkways and
you’ll notice they are fitted with pavers honor- The Natural Going on a journey
Bridge
ing famous past residents, including musician A nearby attraction is Natural Bridge State Park
Patsy Cline and George Crumb, the first documented (dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/natural-bridge), Virginia’s
streaker in North America. The Righteous and Rascals newest park. The 215-foot tall gorge was once owned by
of Rockbridge tour — dozens of histories mapped through- Thomas Jefferson.
out downtown — is accessible via cellphone (rrrockbridge.org/ The area features six miles of walking trails.
the-stories). Or, do as I did, and
follow artist and actor Mark
Cline on his nightly Haunting
Tales, Lexington’s Ghost Tour
(lexingtonvaghosttour.com).
After checking into one of
the 39 Art Deco rooms in the
luxurious Robert E. Lee Hotel,
(roberteleehotel.com) fully ren-
ovated in 2014, I scouted the
grounds and found a f itness
Courtesy Lexington and Rockbridge Area Tourism
18 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
STAUNTON
Renaissance theater production: universal lighting (which helps to
break down the “fourth wall” between audience and performer),
minimal sets, lavish costumes and live music.
Re-created Shakespeare theater inspires The theater is beautiful, and though the seats (wooden benches
a weekend trip / By Jessica Ronky Haddad with back rests) can get a bit uncomfortable, the resident troupe
is top-notch. We missed our opportunity, but the theater offers
My husband and I recently headed west for a much- daily one-hour tours of the theater for $7.
needed weekend getaway combining some of our
favorite activities: outdoor recreation, fine dining The World’s Mine Oyster
and the arts. Our destination was Staunton, less We grabbed a light lunch and midday bloody mary at Byers
than a two-hour drive over the Blue Ridge Moun- Street Bistro (byersstreetbistro.com), located in a historic ware-
tains from Richmond. house. Our grilled salmon salad and chicken tostada salad
were just the sustenance we
needed for a few hours of win-
dow shopping and gallery
hopping while allowing us to
save room — and calories —
for dinner.
The Shack (theshackva.
com) has become a hot din-
ing destination. Southern Liv-
ing declared this unassuming,
and aptly named, eatery to be
one of the 10 best new restau-
rants in the South in 2014, and
chef Ian Boden was a James
Beard Award nominee in 2013
and 2017. The prix fixe menu
($45 for three courses, $55
for four) changes daily with
seasonal — and inspired —
local fare. Standouts in our visit
included the Wagyu oyster steak
with root vegetable gratin, and
young turnips and a cinnamon-
The cast of “Love’s Labour’s Lost” at Blackfriars Playhouse
chocolate pot de crème with
the most sublime orange sugar
To Sleep, Perchance to Dream cookies. It’s wise to make a reservation,
Top: Lauren D. Rogers; Inset: Courtesy Stonewall Jackson Hotel
We spent the night at the 124-room Stonewall Jack- since there is only seating for 26 at
son Hotel & Conference Center (stonewalljackson communal tables.
hotel.com), conveniently located downtown and next
door to the American Shakespeare Center (ameri- Although the Last,
canshakespearecenter.com). Staunton is a walkable Not Least
town, and it was a huge bonus to park the car and Staunton boasts a number of antiques
explore it on foot. The hotel’s Shakespeare package shops, art galleries, bookstores and other
($185 to $350) includes one night’s accommodations, a independent retailers. Our favorites include
generous breakfast buffet for two, parking and two tickets to Made: By the People, for the People (made-va.
a show of your choice. com), a modern-day general store featuring American-made
clothing (think flannel shirts and organic cotton separates),
The Play’s the Thing tongue-in-cheek gifts and handmade goods.
Blackfriars Playhouse, the world’s only re-creation of Shake- Sunspots Studios (sunspots.com) is a glass-blowing stu-
speare’s indoor, stages a rotating repertory of three to five produc- dio and gallery. Visitors can watch demonstrations, and even
tions each season, with two or three different plays daily. While learn to blow their own ornament ($40 to $45) during daily
the theater focuses on Shakespeare’s work, it also performs the walk-in workshops.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 19
ANOTHER
Hot Dogs
life prepared her for the chal-
lenges of becoming first lady at a time of na-
World-famous hot dogs and a first the flat where Edith was born — is in substantially the same
condition it was in when the Bollings left in 1899 and the space
lady’s birthplace share one roof became a boarding house.
in Wytheville / By Martha Steger
Highway Stars
Roadside America contains about 250 Virginia The other five Wytheville attractions on Roadside America’s list?
listings and “Skeeter-Dogs – The First Lady of Hot - The town’s water tower next to I-81, painted to resemble a
Dogs,” is one of six in Wytheville, the mountain town hot-air balloon
20 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
TRAIL MIX massages at “The Martha,” as the locals call it, to work out the
kinks from overdoing the hiking.
Discover
The pace picked up considerably
when we rode our mountain
bikes along the Virginia Creeper
Trail — a euphoria-producing
trail that starts at Whitetop Sta-
tion. You can bike the entire 34-
mile trail by starting in Abing-
don. But most folks use the town
of Damascus as their launching
point. Six hiking, biking and driv-
ing trails converge there and,
as a result, it’s full of bike-rental
outf itters. We took a shuttle
f rom Adventure Damascus
(adventuredamascus.com) to
the top of Whitetop Mountain
Stay near the North Carolina border and then biked to
If you want to feel pampered, check in
Damascus along a stunningly beautiful trail, banked
at the Martha Washington Hotel and
by rhododendrons and tall trees. A logging train nick-
Spa (themartha.com), in the heart
named the Virginia Creeper once chugged along this
of downtown. The Martha Washing-
route. We careened downhill, following the rambling
ton — a private residence in 1832 and
Laurel Creek as it tumbled down the mountain. With
a finishing school, a Civil War hospital Martha Washington
bridge crossings, waterfalls and scenic overlooks, it’s a
Hotel and Spa
and a women’s college in later years — of-
jaw-dropping ride that bikers of most any age can handle.
DON’T MISS
Courtesy Abingdon CVB
Getting away from the grind should include a trip to the picturesque White’s Mill & Mercantile (whitesmill.
org). The working mill is open Wednesday through Sunday (and closed January and February). Powered
by water until 1989, the circa 1790s gristmill now uses electricity to grind cornmeal, buckwheat flour and
grits. The actual grinding, which makes quite a racket, usually goes on when the mill is closed to the pub-
lic. But you might get lucky. You can tour the mill, see old and modern equipment and buy gluten-free
products milled there; other delectables and collectibles are available at the adjoining old-time Mercantile.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 21
“America’s Favorite
Mountain Towns”
— TRAVEL + LEISURE
Find your happy spot in
VisitSpotsy.com VisitStaunton.com
24 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
26/ CLARKSVILLE
28/ AMHERST
29/ FARMVILLE
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 25
Day-Glo green at night, the better to whip the food chain into family history expedition.
a frenzy, attracting bugs that draw hungry bait fish, which lure
Antiques, Treats and Eats
Antique lovers will find plenty to hold their attention in Clarksville,
such as The Virginia Avenue Mall (317 Virginia Ave., 434-374-
5949), with more than 50 vendors.
We discovered rare Virginia wines and handmade truffles at
The Galleria (216 Virginia Ave., 434-374-5999).
We relied on The Lamplighter (201 Virginia Ave., lamplighterva.
com) for easy eats; fried flounder, homemade desserts (two words:
coconut cake) and growler fill-ups from boutique breweries.
For upscale dining, Traveler’s Tavern at Coopers Landing Inn
(801 Virginia Ave., cooperslandinginn.net) highlights produce,
cheese and meats from area farms in their three semi formal
Prestwould Plantation manor
dining rooms and outdoor tavern.
26 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
The Ranch
Leaving behind the city life of Ra-
Saddled up at Shangrila Guest Ranch
leigh, North Carolina, Gary and Julie
Holmes acquired their 800-acre
property with the idea of offering a
getaway where visitors can ride horseback through the woods, rels for shipping. Longtime artistic director Christopher D. Jones,
groom horses, catch fish, feed farm animals, collect eggs, enjoy who was instrumental in the effort that led to the arts center
home-cooked meals and sleep in a comfortable cot- opening in 2005, shows us the 250-seat Chastain Theatre.
tage. All-inclusive per night rates for 2017 are $265
for adults and $170 for ages 8-15. Hourly trail rides Fine Dining
and a half-day package are also available. Bistro 1888 (bistro1888.com), serves up dishes like
hoisin-and-brandy-marinated pork tenderloin
The Ride with gingered cranberry applesauce or shrimp-
I’ve had little experience riding horses, but my and-scallop étouffée. About five miles north in
Top: Courtesy Shangrila Guest Ranch; Middle: Terrie Lantor; Bottom: Dianna Allen Portrait Design
Tennessee walking horse, Biggie, is used to nov- Halifax, along U.S. 501, there’s the Molasses Grill
ice riders. Olivia seems much more at ease on (molassesgrill.com), co-owned by chef Steven
Pretty Boy, a spotted saddle horse. About an hour Lantor's Schopen, whose experience includes restaurants
into our ride, it starts to rain, which makes us feel like in Germany, Sweden and Morocco. We can’t stay this
wilderness adventurers. We forge on and arrive at our time, but I have a feeling we’ll be back.
destination soaked, but happy.
“Hairspray” at
Main Street The Prizery.
After the ride, we drive into town and look at some
of the antiques and consignment shops. We’re
also interested to discover Lantor’s (lantors.com),
a family-owned women’s clothing boutique that’s
been around for 108 years. I find a linen skirt and
coordinating top for less than $15 in the gently used
clothing section in the front of Mike’s Radio & TV
at 317 Main St. — in the back, there’s a workshop
filled with TVs.
The Prizery
In South Boston’s historic warehouse district, theater
performances (such as “Into the Woods” in 2017),
concerts, art exhibits and music lessons take place
in The Prizery (prizery.com), a 38,000-square-foot
renovated building near the Dan River where layers
of tobacco were once pressed (or “prized”) into bar-
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 27
NOIR MORE tucked well away from everything. The only sounds other than
vineyard management were occasional barks from the fam-
ily dogs protecting the chicken and sheep roaming the farm.
Amherst mountainside vineyard Ankida’s tasting room is open noon to 5 p.m. each Saturday,
a peaceful retreat / By Genevelyn Steele and for special events. The winery is also available for booking
special private events.
Named for the Sanskrit word for where heaven Tip: The drive up the mountain is steep and off-grid. Carry
meets earth, the family-owned Ankida Ridge Winery printed directions from their website.
(ankidaridge.com) is a scenic two-hour drive from
Richmond to the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge …And Beyond
Mountains. This micro-vineyard well off U.S. 60 west I toured Lynchburg, 30 minutes away, walking and antiquing.
of Amherst has limited cell phone service, per- I loved listening to the American general case clocks at
fect for an off-the-grid getaway. Buzzards Roost (718 Commerce St., lynchburgbuz-
Buzzards Roost
in Lynchburg zardsroost.com) and enjoyed wood-oven-fired
pizza at Waterstone restaurant in the historic
From Charlottesville… Craddock Terry Hotel (1312 Commerce St.,
I pit-stopped in Charlottesville’s Downtown craddockterryhotel.com). Originally a shoe
Mall to pick up some essentials for an in- factory, this boutique hotel also has an-
dulgent weekend. other restaurant, Shoemakers American
Wine Loves Chocolate (508 E. Main St., Grille. The complex fronts RiverWalk, a walk-
wineloveschocolate.com), an extension of able 3.5-mile section of the James River
Little Washington Winery and Vineyards of Heritage Trail.
Rappahannock County, is well worth a visit. In Amherst, a 20-minute drive from the
This wine bar matches an artisanal, DIY truffle vineyard, you’ll find Loose Shoe Brewing Co.
bar with boutique vino. Their selections include (looseshoebrewing.com), Lazy Days Winery (lazyday-
wines from Maryland, New York and Idaho. swinery.com) and Rebec Vineyards (rebecwinery.com).
Accessory shopping from street vendors netted funky hats
and scarves, but listening to a guitar player busking in front of Don’t Miss
the Paramount Theater was the highlight of my detour. The Amherst County Apple Festival (amherstapplefestival.
I also picked up noodles and steamed buns from an afford- org) is celebrated each year in the third weekend of October at
able eatery, Marco & Luca Dumplings (112 W. Main St.), and both Amherst County High School.
savory and sweet slices from
The Pie Chest (119 Fourth St. NE, The view from Ankida Ridge Winery
thepiechestcville.com), sibling
to The Alley Light (108 Second
St. SW, alleylight.com), a 2015
To the Winery…
When Christine and Dennis
Vrooman purchased high for-
est acreage abutting Chest-
nut Ridge, they planned on
weekend retreats, not a win-
ery. But the builder cleared 2
extra acres, and after talking
with Lucie Morton (an expert
in grapevines who also con-
sulted with Boxwood Winery
of Middleburg) they decided to
try an environmentally sensitive
approach to the vineyard, plant-
ing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
28 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Get Active
Pack up your bikes and
head to the center of
town, where the 31-mile
High Bridge Trail State
Park (dcr.virginia.gov)
crosses Main Street. The
historic 2,400-foot-long
High Bridge is the cen-
terpiece of the park and
is an easy 5-mile bike ride
from the center of Farm-
ville. Take a break on the bridge to a “black diamond” route that’s a knee-knocking 45
enjoy a picnic and the stunning feet above the ground. A ticket ($50 for adults, $40 for
view from 125 feet above the Appo- youth) gets you three hours in the treetops.
Walking the ropes
mattox River. Make sure you bring
at Sandy River
drinking water. Retreat Stay
The Adventure Park at Sandy River Sandy River Retreat also offers rental cabins and “Glamping
Retreat (sandyriverretreat.com), in Rice offers tipis” that are stocked with necessities from salt and pepper to
Courtesy The Adventure Park at Sandy River Retreat; Bottom: Jessica Ronky Haddad
more than 60 obstacles and 20 zip lines on routes that are physi- coffee and tea. The retreat is located on a family-owned farm, and
cally and mentally challenging. After being fitted with a harness guests are invited to mingle with the sheep, donkeys and chick-
Top: Courtesy The Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation; Middle:
and gloves, participants receive training from the friendly and ens, and to collect fresh eggs from the henhouse for breakfast.
safety-conscious staff. Start off on the easiest of the courses, which
is about 15 feet above the ground. As your skills and confidence Eat
progress, the difficulty of the routes increases, culminating in Walker’s Diner (walkersdiner.com) is a retro lunch counter..
Established in 1951, it features diner staples such as pancakes,
burgers, onion rings and club sandwiches. I was impressed with
the grilled chicken and portobello mushrooms over a bed of
arugula. Charley’s Waterfront Cafe (charleyswaterfront.com),
is the closest this laid-back town comes to fine dining. Its pretty
riverside patio is a great place to sip a glass of wine — there are
plenty of choices, and you can enjoy a generous pour of Vinho
Verde for $7. For dinner, try The Fishin’ Pig (fishinpig.com). It of-
fers barbecue, fried seafood and tacos in a rustic, yet sleek space.
Shop
It’s hard to escape Farmville without at least taking a peek into
one of the 12 massive warehouses that comprise Green Front
Furniture (434-392-5943 or greenfront.com). Be sure to check
Walker’s Diner can satisfy
an array of appetites. out the English imports in Building 9 and, of course, the rugs —
Green Front stocks more than a million of them.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 29
Grapes
Potomac Point Winer y
(potomacpointwinery.com) is
a Tuscan-style vineyard and
winery-villa in Stafford County.
After a comprehensive tasting
of award-winning wines and
some complimentary olive-oil
SPIRITED LIVING dippings, we lunched at the winery bistro on the veranda over-
looking the vineyard, accompanied by Potomac Point’s 2015 La
Belle Vie white table wine.
Breweries and wineries abound along At Hartwood Winery (hartwoodwineryva.com) in Fredericks-
the Grapes and Grain Trail / By Martha Steger burg, the husband-and-wife team of Jim and Beverly
Livingston celebrated their 28th anniversary in the
When visiting Fredericksburg and environs, my wine business this year. While they make several
husband and I have encountered “Mary” — George good whites and reds, the 2012 Petit Bordeaux is
Washington’s mother — and, of course, “George,” a standout, featuring a smooth but earthy, smoky-
who grew up at Ferry Farm north of the Rappahan- raspberry tone with a hint of chocolate and a slightly
nock River in Stafford County. On our most recent peppery finish.
trip, we met namesakes of the first president Lake Anna Winery (lawinery.net) is laid back,
and his mother on the Grapes and Grains Trail. reflecting the attitude of its owner, Jeff Heidig,
who believes wine should be fun. His philoso-
phy showed as we checked out his winery
Grains
Top: Courtesy Hartwood Winery; Bottom: Courtesy Bowman Distillery
late on a Sunday afternoon. Contemporary
Said George and Mary are two copper stills at A. Smith background music pervaded the winery and
Bowman Distillery (asmithbowman.com),
), one of 11 contributed to a lack of wine stuffiness as sati-
stops on the trail (grapesandgrainstrail.com), a cel- rized in the 2004 film “Sideways.”
ebration of vineyards, breweries and distilleries in the
Fredericksburg area. Shop
Tom and I liked the fact we could set our We shopped for a gift at Deep Creek Vintage
own pace on the self-guided route. The $15 (deepcreekvintage.com), an antique shop in
(deepcreekvintage.com
tickets are good for a year, so we could visit DON’T MISS Spotsylvania that also carries refurbished and
other area attractions over a weekend or on a painted Americana.
In Spotsylvania, try
return visit. Tickets include tours, commemora- Mattaponi Winery’s
tive tasting glasses and discounts on tastings Pow Wow, a chocolate- Stay
and merchandise. strawberry wine, or Stevenson Ridge inn (stevensonridge.net)
The Bowman family distillery — synonymous the new Golden Horse- in Spotsylvania is situated on 87 quiet acres
shoe, a semi-dry, semi-
with its “Virginia Gentleman” bourbon — has convenient to the city and has seven private
sweet grape wine.
greatly expanded since opening in 1935. A craft (mattaponiwinery.com) cottages. Ours was the Corn Crib. (At $150 to
or small-batch company, it produces bourbons, $180 nightly — it wasn't quite the corn crib I
gin, vodka, rum and a popular caramel-bourbon grew up with on an Eastern Shore farm!)
30 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
RAPPAHANNOCK
broccoli grown in the garden out back, naturally) topped with a
dollop of walnut goat cheese.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 31
TRAILS WINERIES
TRAI
BIKING BOATIN
NG STATE PARKS
ST
HORSEBACK RIDING
NG EQUESTRIAN RETREAT
EQUE
HIKING HUNTIN
NG
FISHING PADDLING
NG RIVERS LAKES
SOV
VA
VA WILD BLUEWAY
South Boston
DISCOVERHALIFAXVA.COM
CAPITAL
STEPPES
FALLS CHURCH
GEORGETOWN
HOUSE MUSEUMS
34 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Drinking it In
The District also has a thriving bar
scene to explore. Admire the soaring
glass ceiling of Blue Jacket Brewery
(bluejacketdc.com), where all the
beer is made in-house near the wa-
terfront. Biergarten Haus (biergar-
tenhaus.com) is a must for its steep
selection of German brews in a tra-
ditional atmosphere (see also: out-
door beer garden). Whiskey lovers will
admire the extensive selection and
Old-World feel of Jack Rose Dining
Saloon (jackrosediningsaloon.com),
while those who love a well-craft-
ed cocktail paired with an intimate
speakeasy atmosphere should make
a beeline for Denson Liquor Bar.
Cheap(er) eats
Making Music
Top: Courtesy Toki Underground; Bottom: Destination DC
36 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Good Fortune
Eden Center is anchored by Good
Fortune, a massive supermar-
ket filled with exotic fruits and
vegetables including durian,
taro, ratalu and yams the size
of baseball bats. After visiting
the seafood counter you can fi-
nally make that cuttlefish recipe
you’ve always wanted to try ($3.99
per pound). The f rozen-food
section includes an area where
you can mix and match balls
of meat for a home-cooked
hot pot. The market also
sells sake, candy and Asian-
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 37
Dine
In both Alexandria and
Georgetown, I ate at La Mad-
eleine Café and Bistro (lam-
adeleine.com). This chain is a
lovely surprise. While you or-
der cafeteria-style, the soups,
breads and pastries are very
good. My blackberry/cream-
cheese croissant hit the sweet Getting Around
spot on Saturday afternoon, The King Street Trolley (alexandriava.gov/Trol-
and a cup of vegetable soup ley), goes up and down King Street in Old Town
and Parmesan crisps made for Alexandria — a great service. There’s also a met-
a perfect late-Sunday lunch in ro station on King Street. Get almost anywhere
Georgetown. Also try lunch in D.C. by riding the Metro, except for George-
or dinner at The Majestic Café town and National Harbor.
(majesticcafe.com), where every-
thing, from pickles to chips, is made Shop
on-site. The restaurant also serves a I tried to shop the side streets in Alexandria, staying off
family-style Nana’s Sunday dinner for $22 of packed King Street, and I was pleased with what I found.
per person. In September, the set menu is lasagna A block from the hotel is the Crate and Barrel Outlet (703-739-
Bolognese, Caesar salad, sautéed rapini with 8800). I scored here on Marimekko fabric for
cherry tomatoes, focaccia and tiramisu. $8 a yard as well as an adjustable beach chair
and umbrella for $50. Don’t miss the Shoe
Courtesy Alexandria Convention and Visitors Association
38 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
tions you’ll find some gems that glow especially Estate and NW in Upper Georgetown, plays host to sea-
Museum
bright during the holidays. Several house museums sonal events including candlelight tours, and
around metro Washington are well worth a weekend an opportunity for “history detectives” to find decorations and
excursion at any time of year, but with special attrac- clues to celebrations past.
tions and festive period décor, they are must-sees in While home only to plants and trees, the United States Bo-
D.C. in December. tanic Garden, 100 Maryland Ave. on the National Mall (usbg.
gov), is the biggest holiday bargain in town — visits are free. Its
annual themed holiday exhibit runs Thanksgiving Day through
Dupont Circle And Embassy Row New Year’s Day and includes a model train show.
My husband and I hopped up (pun intended) to DuPont Circle
to enjoy a brew in tribute to the family of Washington brew-
master Christian Heurich at the mansion he had built for his
family in the 1890s. At its height, his brewery was the largest
Bottom: Courtesy Heurich House Museum
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 39
Top: Courtesy MGM National Harbor Resort & Casino; Bottom: Courtesy National Harbor
home décor hints that you’ll
have Southern cuisine, but
the Korean touches are
a surprise.
Entertainment
The main entertainment
district in the harbor runs
along Fleet Street — you’ll
recognize it by its red-paint-
ed roadway. Here you’ll find
the Brass Tap craft beer bar,
Bobby McKee’s Dueling Pi-
ano Bar and Cadillac Ranch,
where you can cowboy it up
on the mechanical bull. Other
offerings include the Public
House restaurant and the
Irish Whisper pub.
For top-name entertain-
ment, check out the intimate,
The Capital Wheel lights up the waterfront. state-of-the-art theater at
MGM National Harbor.
40 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Explore
It’s easy to get to the park
from Interstate 495. From
the parking lot, we walked
down the path over Min-
nehaha Creek, past the
Living Classrooms for chil-
The Dentzel Carousel has been
dren and around the 1970s- returned to its circa 1921 glory.
era yurts that house callig-
raphy and pottery studios.
We wandered through the
Stone Tower Gallery, the
only structure that remains echo.com). Patrons have their choice of atmosphere —
from the Chautauqua retreat, formal dining rooms, casual pub or outdoor patio — in which
where several artists were at to enjoy their shepherd’s pie, fish and chips or lamb chops,
work on paintings, and met J. along with a pint of Guinness.
Jordan Bruns (jjbruns.com), a resi-
dent artist and instructor who has a studio Upcoming
there. The Popcorn Gallery holds exhibits from The Puppet Co. (thepuppetco.org), at Glen Echo
artists working at Glen Echo and around the Park’s 2018 main stage schedule includes “Little
region. We admired the pottery on display, Red & the Pigs” March 29-May 12; and “Sleeping
and I later regretted not buying one of the Beauty” May 13-June 24.
Top and Inset: Daniel Schreiber; Clara Barton:Courtesy NPS
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 41
Serenity &
Alliance
Alliance Daily Sails
April to November
Morning and Afternoon Cruises
Adults $37, Kids $25
Sunset Cruises $37 per person
No child discount
Sailing from Riverwalk Landing For information call 888.316.6422 or visit www.sailyorktown.com
Wine T
rail
From the
Blue Ridge Parkway
to Smith Mountain Lake,
you’re invited to
Come, Stay, Explore!
Artisan Trail
Bedford Area Welcome
Center & Tourism Peaks of Otter
816 Burks Hill Rd.,
Bedford, VA 24523
(877) 447-3257
VisitBedford.com
44 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
STAY-CATION EXCURSIONS
FOR THE FAMILY
AND JAMESTOWN
48/ CHARLOTTESVILLE
51/ CULPEPER
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 45
STRAIGHT
The National Park Service rang-
ers at the visitors center for the Ap-
TO THE CORE
pomattox Court House National
Historical Park (434-352-8987) are
terrific. Be sure to pepper them
Top: NPS staff photo; Middle: Laura Owen Sutherland; Bottom: Warfieldian
and Civil War history, hadn’t checked off Appomattox Rivermont Avenue in Lynchburg, where beautiful
Court House, the site of the Confederate surrender, old homes, a great little row of shops and restaurants including
from his list of Virginia sites, so it served as the hub the gourmet takeout joint Magnolia Foods (magnoliafoods.com),
for our mini vacation. A Facebook message to buddy and the serene campus of Randolph College all reside.
Martha Steger, the former public-relations director for
the Virginia Tourism Council, provided some must- Sleep
sees for us in Lynchburg and Bedford, and Farmville We’re sold on bed-and-breakfasts, and we found a great one in
was chosen as our midway stop there and back. Appomattox. The circa-1884 Babcock House (babcockhouse.com),
minutes from the Appomattox Court House National Historical
Park, was quiet and cozy.
Shop
Appomattox left a lot to be desired in the way
of shops, so we hit the road to Lynchburg and DON’T MISS
Bedford. In downtown Lynchburg on Main Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest (poplarforest.org)
Street, we stumbled upon James River Fram- in Forest is open daily from mid-March through Dec. 30
ing and Art (434-846-0096) in a storybook (closed on Easter, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve and
Christmas Day) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The third U.S. presi-
cottage. It was the outdoor display of furni-
dent’s restored retreat is open for self-guided tours on
ture and architectural salvage that drew us in. weekends from mid-January through mid-March, from 10
This was not just your ordinary framing shop. a.m. to 4 p.m.
46 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
American Indian
Reservations
King William County is home to three of
Virginia’s 11 state-recognized American In-
dian tribes and the state’s only American
Indian reservations. The Upper Mattaponi
Festival and Powwow takes place Memo-
rial Day weekend. The Mattaponi Muse-
um (804-769-2229) is open on weekends.
The Pamunkeys, the only Virginia tribe to
gain federal recognition, share their story
at the Pamunkey Indian Museum and
Cultural Center (804-843-4792 or see
them on Facebook). It’s open 10 a.m. to 4
p.m. Saturdays, 1 to 4 p.m. Sundays. Tours
by appointment.
Plantations
Take in the beauty and history of the
James River plantations (jamesriver-
buildings, costs $66.99 for adults and $33.49 for ages 6 to 12. Ad- (829-2962 or edgewoodplantation.com) features 10 fireplaces,
mission is free for younger children. a flying staircase, gardens and a gristmill. In addition to regular
At Historic Jamestowne ($14, or free for active military and tours, Edgewood offers candlelight tours and ghost tours at 4800
ages 15 and younger, historicjamestowne.org), visitors can ex- John Tyler Memorial Highway, in Charles City.
plore England’s first successful North American colony. At nearby Other choices range from Belle Air, circa 1670, making it the
Jamestown Settlement (historyisfun.org), costumed historical oldest frame house in Virginia, to Shirley, which was established
interpreters demonstrate daily life in the 17th century. in 1613, and is the oldest plantation in Virginia.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 47
A TASTE OF
a jewelry store. Displayed in a
striking glass-topped wood case, his hand-dipped chocolates are
CHARLOTTESVILLE
worth seeking out. The “Taj,” bittersweet chocolate ganache infused
Top: Courtesy visitcharlottesville.org/Jack Looney Photography; Middle: Courtesy visitcharlottesville.org; Bottom: Gene Runion
with candied ginger, cardamom and rose, and then dipped in dark
chocolate, was divine.
48 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
OVER THE com) in Crozet amps up the ride and supplies Virginia meats
and cheeses, JAM According to Daniel seasonal spreads,
Potables
I hit up the bustling, tour-bus-
filled Blue Mountain Brewery
(bluemountainbrewery.com) in
Afton for a patio beer. Cottony
clouds fill the blue and white
tie-dyed sky, but a few sips lat-
er, I press on to Veritas Vine-
yard & Winery (veritaswines.
com). A stone fireplace warms
Veritas’ ritzy tasting room. The
manicured setting and impres-
sively built wines could substi-
tute for some of Napa Valley’s
finest, but they’re affordable Lock'n Music Festival
in comparison.
I zigzag further off the main
road to visit Afton Mountain Vineyards (aftonmountainvineyards. To Do
com), where scaled-down elegance means no waiting to taste Swannanoa Palace (540-942-5201), the abandoned, desolate
Top: Courtesy Nelson County /Camden Littleton; Bottom: Stephanie Gross
their lighter-style cabernet sauvignon brimming with cherry Italian Renaissance Revival summer home in Afton that was
flavors. I hate to spit out the wine, but I’m driving. commissioned by Maymont’s James H. Dooley, is rarely open
I double back to Route 151 for Virginia vodka, gin and white to the public, but seeing this site merits the 90-minute drive
lightning at Silverback Distillery (sbdistillery.com). from Richmond alone.
Bold Rock Cidery (boldrock.com) operates a tast- In summer, check out the annual Lockn’ Music Fes-
ing room and barrel barn in Nellysford. I loved tival (locknfestival.com). The Avett Brothers and the
the drier ciders available by glass or growler, Dead’s Phil Lesh and Bob Weir performed in 2017.
or by the bottle in the gift shop.
A hop, skip and a jump away, the kid- To Stay
friendly Wild Wolf Brewing Co. (wildwolf Blue Haven 151 Farm and B&B (bluehaven
beer.com) is equipped with a toddler play farmandbnb.com) features nine lovingly re-
area, gazing ponds and live music. There stored American travel trailers for guest stays. A
are 13 beers on tap, including seasonal and tricked-out 1990s Airstream Excella with a queen
signature brews. bedroom and pink-accented salon caught my
The sporty set rides the bar at Devils Back- eye. But the main house proffers five bedrooms and
bone Brewing Co. (dbbrewingcompany.com) in jaw-dropping views in the great room facing DePriest
Roseland, where a stuffed mountain lion and other Brunch at Basic Mountain, whose 4,063-foot summit is accessible from
Necessities
big game watch over the crowd. the Appalachian Trail.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 49
50 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
CULPEPER ber of wineries in the vicinity, but you can still find a good va-
riety of booze. Throw back a few samples of Virginia Lightning
moonshine at Belmont Farm Distillery (belmontfarmdistillery.
There’s much to explore in and com), off U.S. 522 south of town, or walk among the vines at Old
around this small town House Vineyards (oldhousevineyards.com) east of Culpeper;
or Gray Ghost Vineyards (grayghostvineyards.com) along
/ By Catherine Amos Cribbs
U.S. 211 in Amissville. Back in town, we sampled a hefty flight
From the independent shops and travel-worthy of pooch-named brew at Beer Hound Brewery (beerhound-
restaurants to the tight-knit community of natives brewery.com), like Kujo, a “rabid” pale ale, and their Olde Yella
and transplants alike, Culpeper’s charm makes it a American wheat.
must-visit Virginia town.
Shopping
It's About Thyme It’s only a few blocks, but the tiny,
historic downtown is packed with
swoon-worthy finds. We spent the
day getting lost among the oh-so-
trendy Americana goods at Harriet’s
General (blog.harrietsgeneral.com).
I treated myself (and the environ-
ment!) to some eco-friendly gifts at
Green Roost (shopgreenroost.com)
and browsed international wares
at The Cameleer (thecameleer.
com). If you’re feeling so inclined, kick
off a date night with Neuhaus choco-
lates from The Frenchman’s Corner
(frenchmanscorner.com) and specialty
cheeses and wines from the Culpeper
Cheese Co. (culpepercheese.com).
The Archive
Built into the side of Mount Pony sits
a former Cold War-era bunker that
the Federal Reserve once used to
store currency. Today, the gorgeous
facility houses the Library of Con-
gress’ Packard Campus of the Na-
tional Audio-Visual Conservation
Center, home to the world’s largest
and most comprehensive collection
Food of films, television programs, radio broadcasts and
The casual European cuisine at It’s About sound recordings. The campus includes a 205-seat
Thyme (thymeinfo.com) or its sister Thyme Art Deco-style theater with state-of-the-art film
Market — from grilled rockfish with broc- projection. It screens free movies and holds other
Courtesy Paige Read/Town of Culpepper
colini to daily puff-pastry specials — is worth events, usually Thursdays through Saturdays. For a
the trip alone. But there’s also Baby Jim’s Old House listing of upcoming events, visit loc.gov/avconserva-
Snack Bar (701 N. Main St.) if you’ve got cash Vineyards tion/theater/schedule.html.
and are looking for a classic, old-school burger and
fries; Knakal’s Bakery (146 E. Davis St.), where you can The Scenery
get a Westhampton Pastry Shop-style glazed doughnut; or the Whether you’re just up for the day or staying overnight at one of
opportunity to dress up for fine dining at Foti’s (fotisrestaurant. the posh boutique hotels — like the contemporary, luxury Suites
com) or Lucio (luciorestaurant.net). Start your day at Raven’s at 249 (suitesat249.com) that overlooks downtown — Culpeper
Nest (ravensnestcoffeehouse.com) for a latte and house-made offers beautiful views of the Blue Ridge, historical Civil War
lemon poppy-seed scone. battlefields, horse-show parks, vineyards and sprawling farms.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 51
nelson county
VIRGINIA
nelsoncounty.com
Register for a weekend getaway: 800.282.8223
Trending Vibrant!
LynchburgVirginia.org
TAKING
SIX DESTINATIONS
WORTH A QUICK
FLIGHT FROM THE RIC
FLIGHT
56/ ATLANTA
57/ CHARLOTTE
58/ NASHVILLE
59/ MINNEAPOLIS
54 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Top: One Eared Stag; Middle: Jenni Gartman, courtesy of ACVB & AtlantaPhotos.com;
of works by influential Japanese art- where he and his father served as pastor.
ist Yayoi Kusama opens in No-
vember 2018.
Shop
Don’t miss the Beehive (404-
581-9261 or thebeehiveatl. Bottom: Gene Phillips, Courtesy of ACVB & AtlantaPhotos.com
com), a designer collective in
the Edgewood neighborhood.
From local food products to
locally designed clothing, the
variety and quality of merchan-
dise was outstanding. I left with
three infinity scarves, preserves,
letterpress cards and a vow to re-
turn. Two outside-the-perimeter
stops include the Ballard De-
signs outlet in Roswell (ballard
designs.com) and Boca Bar-
goons (770-475-1219 or boca
bargoons.com) discount fabric
High Museum of Art
store in Alpharetta.
56 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Freshly Minted
The Mint Museum (2730 Ran-
dolph Road, mintmuseum.org)
has three expansive galleries filled
with men’s, women’s and chil-
dren’s clothing. Be sure to check
out the exhibit of contemporary
Mexican photography, which
runs through June 18 at the up-
town branch. Admission is free
5 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Wednesdays.
The neighborhoods of Dilworth and Jack, it’s a 1,000-acre community filled with tree-lined streets
and flowers.
NoDa link Charlotte’s past Built in 1915, The Duke Mansion in Myers Park was expanded
and future / By Susan J. Winiecki by owner James Buchanan Duke, who founded Duke Energy and
the Duke Endowment. The 20-room inn (400 Hermitage Road,
I grew up in the Queen City of the North — Buffalo, dukemansion.org) now operates as a nonprofit, with proceeds
New York, — but I was overdue for a first-time visit used to preserve the home.
to the Queen City of the South — Charlotte, North
Carolina — where a college friend is only a direct NoDa
flight away from Richmond. Museums, shopping and The North Davidson neighborhood, aka NoDa, has undergone
hikes through historic neighborhoods 30 years of redevelopment after artists discovered this former
Top: Courtesy CRVA; Bottom: Courtesy Amelie’s French Bakery
were on tap for the long weekend. mill community in the 1980s. Don’t miss a lunch at Cabo
Fish Taco (3201 N. Davidson St., cabofishtaco.com).
Blackened tuna tacos with pineapple-kiwi sauce were
a great start to an afternoon of gallery hopping and
shopping. Dessert was found at the flagship location
The Olmsted Connection for Amelie’s French Bakery (2424 N. Davidson St.,
In the 1870s, landscape architect ameliesfrenchbakery.com), where crunchy palmiers
Frederick Olmsted changed the left their telltale shards all over my lap.
face of Buffalo by connecting neigh-
borhoods with six parks and seven
Amelie’s French
The Sleepy Poet
parkways. His sons had a similar im- Bakery It doesn’t look like much from the outside — a low-
pact on Charlotte. Their work is seen in Dil- slung brick warehouse off South Boulevard, but it’s what
worth, the city’s first streetcar suburb, where is inside that counts. The Sleepy Poet Antique Mall (4450 S.
curving, tree-lined streets follow the topography, not a formal Boulevard, sleepypoetstuff.com) contains 55,000 square feet
street grid. This neighborhood set the bar for the city’s future of well-organized booths, from vintage clothing and jewelry to
suburban development. repurposed industrial finds.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 57
Germantown
The 18-block Germantown
neighborhood dating to
the 1850s houses some of
Nashville’s f inest restau-
rants, including City House
(cityhousenashville.com). A
Thursday-night dinner started
with a tangy Bandit, a cock-
tail combining Averna with
grapefruit juice, and finished
with the best panna cotta I’ve
eaten, laced with blackberries,
topped with cream and gar-
nished with crumbled oatmeal
cookies. The house-made lin-
Shrimp and guine with chickpeas, fennel,
grits at Husk
kale and chilies was another
bright spot.
Midtown Hub
West Nashville Bottom: Courtesy the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum
Top: The Hermitage Hotel; Middle: Courtesy Husk Restaurant;
On the north side of Broadway downtown is The Hermitage
Hotel (thehermitagehotel.com), Nashville’s first million-dollar A visit with friends who live in Sylvan Park meant a jumbo
hotel when it opened in 1910. From its grand lobby with a paint- chicken-tender dinner buffet, complete with pimento macaroni
ed-glass skylight to its bath-drawing service, the hotel exudes and cheese, from Hattie B’s (hattieb.com). My friends ordered
Southern graciousness. The hotel also has its own garden five the “damn hot” chicken for me, but I intend to try “the shut-
miles away and its own cattle farm called the Double H. Both the-cluck-up” version next time.
properties play into what is of-
fered at the hotel’s Capitol Grille DON’T MISS
restaurant. From a golden but-
Yes, the Ryman Auditorium (ryman.com), home to the Grand Ole
termilk breakfast biscuit served Opry from 1943 to 1974, is definitely worth a stop, but the Country
with pork-and-pepper sock sau- Music Hall of Fame and Museum (countrymusichalloffame.org) in the
sage to a blue-plate lunch spe- growing South of Broadway (SoBro) neighborhood is truly something
to sing about. The exhibit “Loretta Lynn: Blue Kentucky Girl” runs
cial of sliced Double H roast beef,
there through Aug. 5. Also worth a stop is the Johnny Cash Museum
buttermilk mashed potatoes and
(johnnycashmuseum.com), a 18,000-square-foot trove of Cash family
collard greens, there was no need memorabilia, including tin cups from Folsom Prison, where Cash re-
for supper. corded his famous live album.
58 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
YOU BETCHA!
the Hewing Hotel
Nice Way To Travel view of St. Anthony Falls and the Stone Arch Bridge.
Minneapolis is widely considered one of the best The “You betcha!” offered by the cashier at the
bike cities in the United States. The sturdy lime- museum’s gift shop was a bonus.
Top: rau+barber, Courtesy of the Hewing Hotel and Meet Minneapolis
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 59
Location, Location
We took up residence at the
Hotel Wales (hotelwalesnyc.
com), an Upper East Side es-
tablishment featuring a charm-
ing rooftop terrace and plenty
of neighborhood convenienc-
es. The much-loved breakfast
spot Sarabeth’s (sarabeths
restaurants.com) has a location
in the hotel. Nearby, there’s the
Corner Bookstore (cornerbook-
storenyc.com), an independent
shop that’s small in stature but
large in literary knowledge. The repeated viewings of the Disney film, I have to admit that the
Central Park
staffer helping us offered numer- genie still made me laugh.
ous suggestions for our son and
daughter, and each was a hit. Simple Sustenance
My kids aren’t foodies, at least not yet. As a result, our New York
Going Green dining was more about function than form, with meals at my old
The Wales is only a block from pizza standby, Two Boots (twoboots.com); Hill Country Chicken
Central Park. In addition to (hillcountrychicken.com), a fried-chicken spot with tasty pies
mapping out the park’s numer- and old-school video games downstairs; and whatever I could
ous attractions, the Central Park find when hunger hit by calling up New York magazine’s infor-
Conservancy (centralparknyc. mative, organized-by-location restaurant guide (nymag.com/
org) has a super-useful free app restaurants) on my smartphone.
that will direct you to the near-
est restroom and (perhaps even better) the closest playground. Day At The Museum
As you explore, the app also features free celebrity audio guides My daughter had “From the Mixed-Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frank-
on park attractions. Alec Baldwin talks about the Great Lawn, weiler” assigned for summer reading, and given that the book’s
and Whoopi Goldberg opines on the Alice in Wonderland statue, protagonists hide out at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
Christopher Postlewaite; Bottom: InSapphoWeTrust
among others. (metmuseum.org), we had to stop by. Many of the displays the
Top: New York Yankees; Middle: NYC & Company/
book references are now gone, but the Egyptian artifacts and
Under The Big Lights an impressive collection of armor held our kids’ interest.
I wish I could hate the new Yankee Stadium Staten Island
Ferry
(yankees.com), but the much-improved food and Ferry Tale
beverage offerings have won me over, even if I When I lived in New York, the Staten Island
still miss the old place and its friendlier ticket Ferry (siferry.com) was one of my go-tos for
prices. The kids got introduced to the magic out-of-town guests. It’s free, it gets you out
of rally caps, albeit defective ones, as the To- on the water, and it offers great views of lower
ronto Blue Jays topped the Yanks on our visit. Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty. There’s a
A couple days later, we took the children to Dairy Queen at the terminal on the Staten Island
their first Broadway show, “Aladdin” at the New side, so we enjoyed some soft serve during our
Amsterdam Theatre. They loved it, and despite trip back to Manhattan.
60 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
Island Time
If you’re in need of an island
getaway, try the village of
Put-in-Bay (putinbay.com), a
20-minute ride by ferry (miller-
ferry.com) from the mainland.
Whether it’s just for the day
or overnight during the long
weekend, there’s plenty to do
in Put-in-Bay. Rent a go-cart,
moped, bike, or just go about it
the old-fashioned way — walk-
ing — it doesn’t matter how
you get around.
African Safari
Top: Courtesy Cedar Point; Inset: Courtesy African Safari Wildlife Park
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8 61
Great Getaways
Virginia’s
River Realm
While you’re on these shores, away from life’s urgent
demands and times hold on you, the choice is clear…
Explore the wonders of the river, a place where you can
catch your breath, calm your mind and live your dreams.
The 465 miles of shoreline, 8 great small towns, and
hundreds of unique attractions invite visitors to taste
the perfect oyster, find that special treasure, the promise
of a secret cove and the pleasure of sharing a table with
friends. Dip your sandy toes into the river and melt away.
Find your shoreline. Plan your next getaway to Virginia’s
River Realm. One hour from Richmond.
(804) 654-1363
VIRGINIASRIVERREALM.COM
Northern Neck
When was the last time you did something for the first
time? Like crabbing or tonging for oysters with a working
waterman on a pristine tributary of the Chesapeake Bay?
Cruise on a skipjack or take a fishing charter, and cap the
day with local oysters and wine. Enjoy kayaking events at
historic sites, explore forests at our state parks and natural
areas, or create your own adventure in the Northern Neck
of Virginia. For a full recharge, take Friday off and make a
long weekend of it. Plan your escape at northernneck.org.
(804) 333-1919
NORTHERNNECK.ORG
62 S P EC I A L A D V E R T I S I N G S ECT I O N / T R AV E L
Escape to
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3/20/18 10:16 AM 1 2/27/18 5:11 PM
64 RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 8
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