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Preparation of New Formulations of Anti-Acne Creams and Their Efficacy
Preparation of New Formulations of Anti-Acne Creams and Their Efficacy
Acne vulgaris (commonly called acne) is a common skin condition, caused by changes in the
pilosebaceous units, skin structures consisting of a hair follicle and its associated sebaceous gland via
androgen stimulation. In the present study six new anti-acne compositions were made for the treatment
of acne and their efficacy was studied on the volunteers of age group of 20 - 28 years via topical
applications. Particular emphasis was placed on treating acne conditions without drying and irritating
the skin.
Key words: Acne vulgaris, pilosebaceous units, Aloe vera, bismuth subnitrate, stearic
acid.
INTRODUCTION
Acne vulgaris may be defined as any disorder of the skin nodules (Brown and Shalita, 1998). The initial event in
whose initial pathology is the microscopic microcomedo. the development of an acne lesion is abnormal
The microcomedo may evolve into visible open desquamation of the keratinocytes that line the
comedones (blackheads) or closed comedones sebaceous follicle, which creates a microplug or
(whiteheads). Subsequently, inflammatory papules, microcomedo. An increase in circulating androgens at the
pustules, and nodules may develop (White, 1999). The onset of puberty stimulates the production of sebum into
severity of acne varies greatly among individuals and the pilosebaceous unit. These events combine to create
genetic background plays an important role. Pathogenic an environment within the pilosebaceous unit that is
factors include androgen-induced seborrhea, follicular favourable for the colonization of the commensal
hyperkeratosis, microbial population, and immunological bacteria, Propionibacterium acnes. With proliferation, P.
and inflammatory processes. These factors influence acnes secrete various inflammatory molecules and
each other, leading to the acne phenotype (Lehmann, chemotactic factors that initiate and perpetuate the local
2009). It has been estimated that as many as 90% of all inflammatory response and possibly induce keratinocyte
teenagers are affected by acne, with virtually 100% of hyperproliferation as well (Webster, 2005). Sebum plays
teenagers experiencing some degree of comedone a central role in the pathogenesis of acne. Acne begins
formation (Olutunmbi et al., 2008). Acne may be just before puberty when the sebaceous glands enlarge
inflammatory or non-inflammatory. Non-inflammatory and reaches a maximum prevalence in early adolescence
acne lesions include open and closed comedones. when sebum output reaches its peak (Burton, 1971).
Inflammatory lesions include papules, pustules, and
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Table 1. The compositions of sample # 1. General procedure for preparing anti-acne creams
Ingredients Wt. % age For preparing various samples the required quantity (as mentioned
below) of stearic acid was melted in a double-jacketed vessel and
Stearic acid 16.22
then required quantity of paraffin oil was added to it at a
Paraffin oil 0.95 temperature of 70 - 80˚C, preventing it from boiling. After mixing
Cetyl alcohol 0.95 acetyl alcohol as a whitening agent, was added and the contents
Triethnol amine 0.51 were homogenized. With continuous stirring, triethanol amine,
propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate, glycerine, n-propyl-p-
Propylene glycol 4.77 hydroxybenzoate or any combination of these and various anti-acne
Isopropyl-myristate 0.95 agents used were added in this mixture according to the
Glycerin 1.90 underneath mentioned percentage and the whole material was kept
Propyl paraben 0.095 warm during the manufacturing process. In another vessel, sulphur
dissolved in the essential oil, borax and required extracts were
Derma soft 1.90 mixed in distilled water and this suspension was heated at 80 -
Sulfur 0.38 90˚C. This suspension was added into the above oily phase mixture
Borax 0.76 of stearic acid and the contents were thoroughly homogenized. An
Vitamin E (tocopherol) 0.56 equivalent vigorous high shear type of mixing is equally
effective.
Zinc oxide 0.76 Stirring with the help of electrical stirrer was kept on until a
Bismuth subnitrate 1.90 homogenous cream was formed. After, the cream was allowed to
Extracts of Aloe vera 0.63 cool at room temperature and then perfumes were added below
35˚C. By varying the ingredients and their amounts taken, different
Salix alba bark 0.63
samples formed were checked to confirm that pH, viscosity, specific
Sugar-cane 0.63 gravity, colour, odour and product texture were within the
Distilled water 65.7 specification necessary for anti-acne creams (Lee, 2003). The
Fragrance qs compositions of different sample made are shown in Tables 1 - 6.
Table 7. Prepared anti-acne samples and the data showing the type of acne, distribution, healing time, efficacy criteria and their percentage efficacy on the volunteers of age group of 20 -
28 years.
Type of Distribution of
Groups Samples allotted Healing Efficacy criteria/ reason Questioning results form Percentage
acne volunteers time volunteers efficacy (%)
This product showed quite good This product almost satisfied all
Sample # 1 results in treating acne before the volunteers and did not cause
9 volunteers 6-7
expected healing time, the reason any sort of side effect except a 93.00
(5 females, 4 males) days
was to use the bismuth subnitrate in very minor irritation in one.
Inflammatory combination with natural products.
B (papules,
pustules) This product was specially designed This product was helpful in
6 volunteers 6-7 for oily skin and acne and it was reducing acne counts of 5
Sample # 5 83.33
(3 males, 3 females) days success full in treating acne in the volunteers. The remaining one
estimated time. volunteer could not be healed.
15 volunteers (8 This product had many natural This product satisfied almost all
females, 7 males) 8-9 products and was allotted to those the volunteers and was quite
Sample # 2 days having sensitive skin. This product soothing to them except a very
92.00
also proved to be very helpful in little irritation in one of them.
Inflammatory treating acne.
C (nodules,
cysts) This product was excellent Iino, not This product was also good but
15 volunteers (6 8-9 just reducing the acne but also was the cause of irritation to 2 of
Sample # 6 86.66
females, 9 males) days lightened the spots which usually this the volunteers.
type of acne leaves.
464 Afr. J. Pharm. Pharmacol.
646
474 Afr. J. Pharm. Pharmacol.
747
98% 97%
efficiency
90%
90%
% age
88%
86%
YRS YRS YRS YRS
97%
96% 96%
95%
94% 94% 94%
93% 93% 93%
MALE
92%
91% 91% FEMALE
91%
90%
efficiency
90%
89%
% age
88%
87%
comedones so that they do not result in severe acne were those who were also suffering from inflammatory
forms. The volunteers of this group got rid of comedones acne including nodules and cysts forms which were pus
in 3 - 4 days cream course. No side effect or visible filled and were more painful and lasted for longer time.
irritation was noted on the skin of these volunteers except These forms of acne usually left scars. The volunteers
one in each case who felt irritation and hence could not were advised to use the sample #2 and sample #6
be healed. topically. They were advised to it use for 8 - 9 days and in
Among the remaining 25% of volunteers had case of scars the duration was extended up to 2 weeks.
inflammatory acne showing pustules and papules as a The sample #2 showed tremendous results having a
dominant acne form. These acne forms were larger, of 3 - good mixture of natural extracts of anti-inflammatory and
6 mm in diameter as compared to comedones, painful, anti-toxic properties.
red and fairly hard. These volunteers were allotted
sample #1 and sample #5. These volunteers required at Statistical analysis
least 6 - 7 days cream course. The sample #1 having
natural extracts of sugar cane and A. vera and bismuth All the statistical analysis was performed by Microsoft
subnitrate proved to be a very good combination to excel 2003 to calculate the percentage efficacy of these
combat against acne. The remaining 50% of volunteers samples.
Abbasi et al. 303