MECHANICAL STREAM (AEROPLANE AND POWER PLANT)

MAINTENANCE PRACTICES-II
SYLLABUS

1. RIVETTING
a. Description of riveted joints, rivet spacing and pitch.
b. Tools used for riveting and dimpling, Inspection of riveted joints.

2. PIPES AND HOSES

a. Bending, beading and flaring of aircraft pipes.
b. Inspection and testing of aircraft pipes and hoses.
c. Installation and clamping of pipes.

3. SPRINGS
a. Inspection and testing of springs used in aircraft

4. BEARINGS
a. Testing, cleaning and inspection of bearings. Lubrication requirements of
bearings. Defects in bearings and their causes
b. Knowledge of official journal of the European Union EN 28.11.2003 L 315/100

5. TRANSMISSION
a. Inspection of gears, backlash
b. Inspection of belts and pulleys, chain and sprocket
c. Inspection of screw jack, lever devices, push-pull rod systems

6. CONTROL CABLES
a. Swaging of end fittings
b. Inspection and testing of control cables
c. Description of Bowden cables and aircraft flexible controls systems.
 RIVETTED JOINTS
 Following are the two types of riveted joints, depending upon the way in
which the plates are connected. 1. Lap joint and 2. Butt joint.
 A lap joint is that in which one plate overlaps the other and the two plates
are riveted together.
 A Butt joint is that in which the main plates are kept in alignment butting
each other and a cover plate or strap is placed on either one side or both
sides of the main plates. The cover plate is then riveted together with the
main plate.
 Butt joints are classified as single cover butt joint and double cover butt
joint.
 In a single cover butt joint, the edges of the main plates butt against each
other and only one cover plate is placed on one side of the main plate and
then riveted together.
 In a double cover butt joint, the edges of the main plates butt against each
other and two cover plates are placed on both sides of the main plates and
then riveted together.
 Riveted joints are also classified into two types depending upon the number
of rows of the rivets are used for the joint, they are :- (i)Single Riveted joint
& (ii)Double Riveted joint
 A single riveted joint is that in which there is a single row of rivets in a lap
joint or a butt joint.
 A double riveted joint is that in which there two rows of rivets in a lap joint
or a butt joint.
 A multiple riveted joint is that in which there are more than two rows in a
lap joint or a butt joint. It may be a triple or a quadruple riveted joint.
 A chain riveted joint is that in which every rivet of a row is opposite to the
other rivet of the other row.
 A zig-zag riveted joint is that in which the spacing of the is zig zag in order.
 A diamond riveted joint is usually adopted in a butt joint only. It is a joint in
which the number of rivets decreases as we proceed from the innermost
row to the outermost row of the rivet.

RIVETING PROCEDURE.
The riveting procedure consists of drilling and preparing the hole, and driving
the rivets. These techniques are discussed in the following paragraphs.
1. DRILLING.
Rivet holes in field repair may be drilled with either a light power drill or a hand
drill. The standard shank twist drill is most commonly used.
(a) Hole transfer. Accomplish transfer of holes from a drilled part to another
part by placing second part over first and placing established holes as a guide.
Using an alternate method, scribe hole location through from drilled part onto
part to be drilled, spot with a center punch and drill.
(b) New sections. In areas involving complete new sections, drill from skin
inward into stringer, or drill from stringer outward. In either case, first drill
0.098-inch pilot holes in member nearest operation, locate and attach second
member to first by two C clamps or spring fasteners; size-drill through both
members, separate sheets, and remove burrs from holes.
(c) Flimsy members. Drill flimsy members, such as light stringers, from skin
surfaces after first marking rivet line along their length in pencil. When skin,
predrilled with pilot holes, is placed over stringer, flex latter to bring pencil line
center with skin holes. Apply an occasional Cleco-type holder to hold stringer in
position. Drilling the skin from the stringer may often prove more convenient,
but because of the flexibility of the customary stringer, the resulting rivet line in
the skin may prove somewhat irregular.

PREPARATION OF RIVET HOLES

It is very important that the rivet hole be of the correct size and shape and free
from burrs. If the hole is too small, the protective coating will be scratched from
the rivet when the rivet is driven through the hole. If the hole is too large, the
rivet will not fill the hole completely. When it is bucked, the joint will not develop
its full strength, and if countersinking is required, consider the thickness of the
metal and adopt the countersinking method recommended for that thickness. If
dimpling structural failure may occur at that spot. If dimpling is required, keep
hammer blows or dimpling pressures to a minimum so that no undue work-
hardening occurs in the surrounding area.
DRILLING
To make a rivet hole of the correct size, first drill a hole slightly undersize. This is
known as pre-drilling, and the hole is called a pilot hole. Ream the pilot hole with
a twist drill of the correct size to get the required dimension. Pilot drill and
reaming drill sizes are shown in figure. The recommended clearance for rivet
holes is from 0.002 to 0.004 in.
When drilling hard metals the twist drill should have an included angle of
118°and should be operated at low speeds; but for soft metals, use a twist drill
with an included angle of 90° and it should be operated at higher speeds. Thin
sheets of aluminum alloy are drilled with greater accuracy by a drill having an
included angle of 118° because the large Center punch locations for rivet holes
before be angle of the drill has less tendency to tear or elongate the actual
drilling. The center punch mark acts as a guide and lets the drill grip or bite into
the metal with greater ease. Make the center punch mark large enough to
prevent the drill from slip ping out of position, but punch lightly enough not
to dent the surrounding material. Hold a hard, smooth, wooden backing block
securely in position behind the hole locations when drilling.

GEARS
 A gear is a machine element used to transmit motion between rotating
shafts/wheels when the centre distance between the shafts is not too large.
 The gears provide a positive drive, maintaining exact velocity ratios
between driving and driven shafts.
 Power transmission gears are usually made from chromium molybdenum
steel which provides good toughness and resistance to wear.
 Some (low power) gears are made from sintered metal (powered metal).
  Non power gears can be made of almost any material including composites
for quieter running non lubricated arrangements.
 Most gears are lubricated either by regular maintenance lubrication or by
being run semi submersed in oil.

TYPES OF GEARS COMMONLY USED

SPUR
 These are classified as external (the most common), internal, and Rack and
Pinion.
 External spur gears have teeth, which point outward from the centre of the
gear.
 Internal or annular gears have teeth pointing inward towards the gear axis.
 A rack (a gear with teeth spaced along a straight line), together with a
pinion gear, convert straight-line motion into rotary motion and vice versa.
 SWAGING OF CABLE END FITTINGS
Swaging is an operation in which a metallic end fitting is secured to the end
of a cable by plastic deformation of the hollow shank of the end fitting. The end of
the cable is inserted into the hollow shank of the end fitting, and the shank is
then squeezed in a swaging machine, so that it grips the cable. This is the most
satisfactory method of attaching an end fitting to a cable. It is also expected to
provide a cable assembly as strong as the cable itself.
Manufacturers of cable assembly normally swage with rotary machines. In
these machines the shank of the end fittings is placed between suitable dies, and
is subjected to a series of forming blows, which reduce the shank diameter, and
lock the fitting to the cable.
Swaging may also be carried out on a portable swaging machine, which
squeezes the shank of the end fitting between dies.

PORTABLE SWAGING MACHINE

SWAGING PROCEDURE
1. Ensure that the new cable is the correct size, by using a suitable gauge
(go-not-go gauge) or by measuring the diameter as shown in the diagram.

2. Cut the cable to the required length, and ensure that the ends are clean and
square.
3. Select the appropriate end fittings, and clean it by immersing it in a solvent;
then shake and wipe.
4. Assemble the end fittings to drawing requirements. With drilled through
fittings, the cable end must pass the inspection hole, but be clear of the
 locking hole. For end fittings with a blind hole the cable must bottom the
hole. When the cable and the end fittings are correctly assembled, they
should be lightly lubricated.
5. Fit the dies for the particular end fitting in the swaging machine, open the
handles of the machine, and unscrew the adjuster until the end fitting can
be placed in the dies. With the end fittings centered in the die recess, close
the handles fully, and screw in the adjuster until the dies grip the fitting.
Open the handles, and tighten the adjuster by the amount of squeeze
required for the particular end fitting.
6. Release the handles and rotate the fitting through approximately 50°.
Repeat the squeezing and rotating until the fitting has been moved one full
turn.
7. Withdraw the end fitting from the dies 1.6mm and repeat the cycle of
squeezing and turning.
8. Continue operation until the whole shank is swaged. Check the diameter of
the shank for its correctness. If the diameter is slightly more than the
requirement, re-set the adjusting screw and repeat the swaging operation.
9. When the shank of the end fitting has been reduced to the correct diameter,
remove and inspect the fitting.
10. If the cable is found over swaged during inspection it is advisable to reject
the cable and replace with a new one.

MAINTENANCE OF AIRCRAFT CONTROL CABLES

 Frequent inspections and preservation measures such as rust-prevention
treatments for bare carbon steel cable areas, will help to extend cable
service life.
 Where cables pass through fair-leads, pressure seals, or over pulleys,
remove accumulated heavy coatings of corrosion-prevention compound.
 Provide corrosion protection for these cable sections by lubricating with a
light coat of grease or general-purpose, low-temperature oil.
CORROSION AND RUST PREVENTION.
 To ensure a satisfactory service life for aircraft control cables, use a cable
lubricant to reduce internal friction and prevent corrosion.
IF THE CABLE IS MADE FROM TINNED STEEL,
 Coat the cable with rust-preventive oil, and wipe off any excess.
 It should be noted that corrosion-resistant steel cable does not require this
treatment for rust prevention.
LUBRICATION AND CORROSION PREVENTIVE TREATMENT
 Lubrication and corrosion preventive treatment of carbon steel cables may
be effected simultaneously by application of compound MIL-C-16173, grade
4, or MIL-C-11796, Class I.
 MIL-C-16173 compound should be brushed, sprayed, or wiped on the cable
to the extent it penetrates into the strands and adequately covers the cable
surfaces.
 It will dry “tack free” in 24 hours at 77 °F.
 MIL-C-11796 compound is applied by dipping the cable for 1/2 minute into
a tank of compound heated to 77 ° ± 5 °C (170 ° ± 9 °F) for 1/2 minute then
removing it and wiping off the excess oil. (An example of cable corrosion,
attributable to battery acid, is shown in figure 7-21.)

CABLE SPLICING PROCEDURE

Perform the following procedures to fabricate woven spliced terminals:
1 Sweat solder or wrap cable prior to cutting to prevent fraying.
2 Secure cable around a bushing or thimble by means of a splicing clamp leaving
eight inches or more of free end. Secure splicing clamp in a vise with free end to
the left of standing wire and away from operator
3 Select free strand (1, figure) nearest standing length and separate this strand
from rest of separate ends.
4 Insert a marlin-spike under first three stands (A, B, and C) of standing length
nearest separated strands of free end and separate them momentarily by
twisting marlin-spike.
5 Insert free strand (1) under three separated strands through opening created
by marlin spike. Pull free strand taut, using pliers.
6 Unwind a second strand (2), located to left of first strand tucked, and insert this
second strand under first two standing strands (A and B).
7 Loosen third free length strand (3) located to left of first two, and insert it
under first standing strand (A).
8 Remove center or core strand (7) from free end and insert it under same
standing strands (A and B).
9 Temporarily secure core strand to body of standing cable.
10 Loosen strand (6) located to right of first strand (1) and tuck it under last two
strands (E and F) of standing cable.
11 Tuck fifth free end (5) around fifth standing strand (E). Tuck fourth free end
(4) around sixth standing strand (F).
12 Pull all strands snug toward end fitting with pliers. This completes first tuck.
13 Begin with first free strand (1) and work in a counterclockwise direction,
tucking free strands under every other standing strand
14 After completion of every tuck, pull strands taut with pliers. Pull toward end
fitting.
15 After completion of third complete tuck, have the number of wires in each
free strand. Make another complete tuck with remaining wires.
16 At completion of fourth tuck, again halve number of wires in free strands and
make one final tuck with remaining wires.
17 Cut off all protruding strands and pound splice with a wooden or rawhide
mallet to relieve strains in wires.
18 Serve spice with waxed line cord. Start 1/4 inch from end of splice and carry
wrapping over loose end of cord and along tapered splice to a point between
second and third tucks
19 Insert end of cord back through last five wrappings and pull snug.
20 Cut off end, and when a thimble is used as an end fitting, bend down points.
21 Apply two coats of shellac, to the cord, allowing 2 hours between coats.
22 Carefully inspect cable strands and spices for local failure. Weakness in a
woven splice is made evident by a separation of strands of serving cord.