Slovenia Day Trips: Triglav Lakes Valley

Hike
October 1, 2015

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Written by: Bob R

Pic du Jour • Slovenia

This is the Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih, a mountain lodge nestled quietly in the Triglav Lakes Valley in

Slovenia’s Julian Alps. Even framed by the gray skies and daunting clouds –elements I generally find inviting–

this was one of the most beautiful mountain scenes I’ve ever witnessed. And it took less than four hours to

reach on foot – by any measure, a just reward for breaking a sweat.

Most who visit Slovenia and are eager for a taste of its mountain scenery set aside a day to visit the well-

known alpine lake at Bled or its slightly more remote cousin Lake Bohinj, just another 25km up the road in

Triglav National Park. When the weather allows, both offer up some very memorable vistas of this eastern

Alpine range.

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But if you really want a feel for the rugged mountains the country has on offer you need to head for and into

the hills. Hiking is the national pastime in Slovenia for good reason. And while its peaks don’t quite reach as

high as those of the ranges in neighboring Italy and Austria and nearby Switzerland and Germany, experienced

and well-traveled alpinists will tell you that Slovenia is anything but Alps-lite.

The hike to the Triglav Lakes Valley, named for the country’s highest peak (2,864m/ 9,396ft) and the national

park in which it sits, is among the most popular. The valley is named for a system of (at least) seven lakes that

sit in this high mountain valley. The lodge (1,685m /5,528ft) that serves as the destination for this hike rests at

the valley’s southern edge at the Dvojno Jezero, or Double Lake in the heart of the Julian Alps and Triglav

National Park.

There are several trails to the hut; to kick off this occasional Slovenia Day Trips series I picked the one which

begins in the Blato Valley near Bohinj; it’s considered the easiest — and my knees have reached a point where

they cry out, sometimes loudly, for easy. It’s also extremely picturesque, and a well-rounded representation of

the geography and geology of the area, passing through high alpine meadows, valleys and pastures and lush

deciduous and evergreen forests.

The hike is about seven hours round trip, making it an easy and fairly relaxed day trip if you’re spending the

night in Bohinj or Bled. It’s possible from the capital Ljubljana (1hr 15min drive one way) in a day, too, if

you’re an early riser, have your own transportation and set out when the days are still somewhat long. (Pulling

it off in a day from Ljubljana using only public transport is probably next to impossible.)

A breakdown of the trail, along with a few dozen images, is below. As with any mountain area, weather can

change quickly. As you’ll see in the photos, we began under nearly clear blue skies which later changed to

shades of gray. Fortunately, that didn’t equate to rain.

The nitty and the gritty:

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Trailhead: Forest service road near Blato Valley (Planina blato), 1147m (3,763 ft)

Destination: Triglav Lakes Mountain Hut 1685m (5,528 ft)

Duration: Approximately three-and-a-half hours; distance about 6.5km (4mi), one way

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate with no technical climbing involved but it does include several steep inclines,

particularly in the initial portions

Elevation Gain: 535m (1,755 ft); along the trail, 700m (2,296 ft)

Weather forecast (Slovene): [Stara Fužina][Ribčev Laz][Bohinjska Bistrica]

Getting there (arriving by car or bus from Bled): When you arrive in the village of Ribčev Laz at the

eastern edge of Lake Bohinj, turn right towards the village of Stara Fužina. Follow the signs for Planina Blato

(Blato Plateau) and the Voja Valley (Dolina Voje). Soon after leaving Stara Fužina you’ll reach a toll stop

where you’ll pay a 10 euro parking fee (cash only). From there, follow the narrow and windy forest service

road for another 15 minutes to the trailhead near Planina Blato. If the lot is full, parking along the road is

allowed.

Planina pri Jezeru

The first hour is mainly an ascent through forest until you reach Planina pri Jezeru –in Slovene, planina is

mountain and jezero is lake– a large clearing with several shepherds’ huts and a larger mountain lodge, the

Koča na Planini pri Jezeru (1,453m/ 4,767ft). The lodge only operates during the summer months when food

and drink is also available.

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Shepherds’ huts at Planina pri Jezeru

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 Lake at Planina pri Jezeru

Daily menu at the Planina pri Jezeru mountain hut

Dedno Polje

About 30-40 minutes later you’ll come upon Dedno Polje (1,560m/ 5,118ft), a high altitude pasture area where

you almost expect gnomes to emerge from the tiny doorways of the shepherds’ huts.

Though most of the huts have been converted to weekend vacation dwellings, locals still produce cheese and

other dairy products here which are available for sale during the summer months. One of the huts also has

refreshments available in-season (June-September).

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Dedno Polje mountain pasture

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 Shepherds’ huts at the Dedno Polje mountain pasture

Čez Prode Trail

From Dedno Polje, it’s about another hour and 45 minutes to the Triglav Lakes Valley lodge.

When you reach the Planina Ovčarija (fifth image below), you’ll have a choice between two trails: ‘čez

Štapce’ to the right or ‘čez Prode’ to the left. From this direction, I recommend sticking to the left and taking

the Prode route where the ascents are more moderate and the views exhilarating, and then later returning via

the Štapce pass, as illustrated further below.

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Along the hiking trail to the Triglav Lakes valley

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View east from the Prode trail to the Triglav Lakes Valley

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Mountain view from the Prode trail

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Along the Prode trail

The Prode trail

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Triglav Lakes Valley

And finally, arrival.

A hut was was first built here in 1880 by an Austrian hiking club, rebuilt in 1955 and expanded in 1988. It

currently has four dining rooms with a capacity of 150, 13 rooms with 30 beds and another 13 rooms with 170

bunks in all. Additional info and a price list is here.

Hiker arriving at the southern end of the Triglav Lakes Valley

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 Twin Lakes in the Triglav Lakes Valley

The Triglav Lakes Valley Mountain Lodge

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 One of the twin lakes by the Triglav Lakes Valley lodge

Štapce pass trail

As mentioned above, I suggest returning via the ‘čez Štapce’ pass over Tičarica (below) that looms over the

valley. The initial ascent is very steep –one portion has cables for support– but it only takes about 15-20

minutes to reach the crest where you’ll be afforded your final views of the valley.

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 View of Tičarica from the Triglav Lakes Lodge

Danijela on the Štapce pass trail above the Triglav Lakes valley

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Climbing the Štapce pass trail

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 On the Štapce pass trail

Support cables along the the Štapce pass trail

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View of the Triglav Lakes valley’s Twin Lakes from the Štapce pass trail

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Start and Finish

And finally, a couple snaps near the start. This is parking at about 10am on a late September Sunday morning.

Fortunately, the trail didn’t feel crowded at all. And below, the trailhead.

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A couple more useful links:

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  The Alpine Association of Slovenia (Planinska Zveza Slovenije)

 hribi.net – detailed mountaineering and hiking info for most Slovenian mountains and ranges, and also

includes info on mountains in neighboring countries

Pin This!

And finally a few closing thoughts about this new occasional Slovenia Day Trips series: As I alluded to

above, my knees are on a serious decline. I was reminded of just how serious when we made our way back

down from this walk. And again the following day. And the day after that.

I only mention this because as much as I would like to plan otherwise, I know that this series can’t and won’t

focus on hikes in the mountains. It’s unfortunate because there are so many beautiful areas in this tiny country

covered by hills and mountains, most of which I’ll never get to see. That said, bike riding and hiking that

doesn’t involve steep descents is still very much in the cards. Hopefully for a very long time. So, if there is

anything or any place you’d like me to focus on in the future, get in touch and let me know. I’m always happy

to oblige.

Triglaz 7 lakes valley

http://www.summitpost.org/7-triglav-lakes-valley-route/156936

This is probably the most beautiful Triglav approach. It is quite long and quite tough to
go one way in one day, both ways impossible. The best way to do it is to sleep in of the
huts along the way.

Section 1) Koca pri Savici hut - 7 Triglav Lakes hut – 3.30h

Section 2) 7 Triglav Lakes hut - Koca na Dolicu hut – 3.30h
Section 3) Koca na Dolicu hut - Dom Planika hut - 2h
Section 3a) Koca na Dolicu hut – Triglav 2.30h
Section 4) Dom Planika hut - Triglav - 2h
Total 11.00h

Starting point for this route is Koca pri Savici hut (653m), which stands in the glacial

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cirque, bellow Komarca cliffs, at the end of Bohinj lake valley. It is accessible by car
from Bled, via Bohinj (36km). Parking is not free.

Section 1) Koca pri Savici hut - 7 Triglav Lakes hut: 3.30h

Before starting towards 7 Triglav lakes be sure not to miss 60m high Savica waterfall
(20 minutes), source of Savica River, which is filling Bohinj Lake. Savica waterfall is
thundering between the cliffs of Komarca and is one of well-known Slovenian tourist
attractions.

At Koca pri Savici hut go right across the bridge over the Savica River. Wide path
ascends through the beech forest, gradually at first. You reach the bottom of cliffs
where huge waterfalls thunders when larger amounts of rain fall. From here it becomes
really steep. Path ascends in numerous sharp bends between the cliffs of Komarca.
Slope is very steep, sometimes turns into cliffs, but the path is comfortable, very well
led. Where is necessary there are fixed ropes and pegs. Views are beautiful, Koca pri
Savici hut is just bellow your feet, deeper and deeper. After 1.45h and 700m of vertical
climb path flattens and enters spruce and beech forest. In few minutes you are at Crno
jezero (1294m, Black lake). Lake has beautiful green colour and is pleasant for
swimming in high summer.
Path goes around the lake on the right, above are cliffs of Stador. Behind the lake path
enters a deep valley and gradually climbs through the forest till it reaches long cliff
where you are surprised by a weak source. Path now climbs steeply to the right till it
reaches flatter ground at the beginning of 7 Triglav Lakes Valley. Suddenly view opens
on Dvojno Jezero (Double Lake, 1676m) and the hut behind it. Further behind is Veliko
Spicje peak (2398m), while on the right is Ticarica peak (2071m). Path reaches the 7
Triglav Lakes hut going along the eastern shore of the lake.

Section 2) 7 Triglav Lakes hut - Koca na Dolicu hut: 3.30h

Behind the hut, path heads forward along the eastern shore of a small Mocivec lake. For
the next hour path has northern direction and climbs gradually, just bellow the cliffs of
Ticarica (2091m), at first, then Kopica (2207m) and large scree slopes bellow them.
You are now above forest line, view in front is occupied by Veliko Spicje peak and it’s
ridge. Suddenly view on Veliko Jezero (Big Lake, 1831m) open is front of you. Now the
cliffs of mighty Zelnarica are above us (2320m). Terrain is more and more bare
limestone rock with some grass and dwarf pine. Path climbs over the few small steps

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and reaches shallow Zeleno Jezero (Green Lake, 1988m)

If you would like to see the upper 3 lakes, turn left here, towards Zavaska koca na
Prehodavcih hut (2071m). First lake on the right is Rjavo jezero lake (2006m), than
small Lake Mlaka vs Lastah (1994m), steep bellow the hut and finally Jezero pod
Vrsacem (Lake under Vrsac, 1991m), which is placed below the mighty cliffs of
Kanjavec (2568m) and is under snow and ice till mid July. After this tour of 3 lakes,
return towards Zeleno jezero lake.

Our path turns right at Zeleno Jezero Lake and heads, gradually ascending, towards the
steep rocky slope of Hribarice. In sharp bends it ascends between rocks, cliffs and over
the scree slopes till it flattens at around 2300m. Cliffs of Vrsaki peaks are just above us
and view back on upper part of 7 Triglav lakes valley is beautiful. In next 20 minutes
path takes us across Hribarice plateau, bare rock land, where snow lasts long into
summer. At the end of plateau is Cez Hribarice pass (2358m); Triglav gets into the
view for the first time. It looks mighty, high and still quite far away. On the other side
path descends steeply, either over the long lasting snow or scree in late summer, and
goes to the left, around the Kanjavec peak till it reaches Dolic pass (2164m). From here
Trzaska koca na Dolicu hut (2151m) is just in front of you.

From here you have an option to go directly to the summit of Triglav (than descent to
Planika or Kredarica huts) or via Dom Planika hut.

Section 3) Koca na Dolicu hut - Dom Planika hut: 2h

From the Dolic pass path goes right cutting along steep rocky slopes above upper part
of Velska dolina valley, going around rocky dome of Smarjetna glava peak (2358m).
After a short flat section it ascends again over the bare rocky slopes, crossing section of
cliffs under Rjavec peak (2568m), which is secured with fixed ropes and pegs. After
this, steep scree section awaits us, path ascends in many bends till it reaches Dom
Planika hut (2401m).

Section 3a) Koca na Dolicu hut - Triglav (2864m): 2.30h

From the hut path descends little bit to the place where old hut stood and than turn’s
right. It ascends in many sharp bends towards huge gradual slopes bellow Triglav.
Long, gradual ascent over them takes us to the bottom of Triglav’s cliffs. On the left
you can see the huge Morbegna ruins (2500m), Italian barracks from WW I. For
decades it still resists destructive work of time quite well and can offer precious shelter
in case of a sudden storm. Here we are joined by Bambergova pot trail from Aljazev
Dom hut in Vrata valley. Path turns right and climbs over scree slopes bellow cliffs of
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Triglav. When we reach them path, secured with fixed ropes and pegs, climbs steeply to
the right over the bottom of red couloir till it reaches Triglavska skrbina (2659m). Path
than turns left and climbs southern Triglav’s ridge all the way to the top. Views are very
wide all the time.

Section 4) Dom Planika hut - Triglav (2864m): 2h

Behind the hut path quickly begins to climb, over the combination of rocky slopes and
scree till it reaches the cliffs in some 25 minutes. It turns right through the couloir and
than left, climbing steeply. Path is very well secured and has amazing views. Just
bellow the Mali Triglav, after an hour, we join the path from Kredarica hut. View
towards north literally explodes.
In front of us is notorious, razor sharp ridge, which was great obstacle for the first
climbers of Triglav. Today fixed ropes very well secure this section and there is no need
for riding the ridge, what first climbers had to do. After this flat section, path climbs
steeply again till it reaches the summit, where Aljazev Stolp greets you.

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axe are necessary in winter and spring. In summer normal few days
hiking gear.

Walk – an ascent of Komarča to Črna jezero in Triglav Lakes

Valley
by David Robertson ~ 14-Oct-2009 ~ updated 13-Aug-2010

Walk 21 – the ascent of Komarča to Črna jezero and the Triglav Lakes Valley, from a Walking
Guide to Slovenia.

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Triglav Lakes Valley

Viewed from any distance the cliffs of Komarča look impassable, but there is a path, a steep one,
that leads to Črna jezero and the foot of the Triglav Lakes Valley (sometimes called the “Seven
Lakes Valley”).

Start/Finish – Slap Savica car park

Distance – 3.8km/2.3mile

Height gain – approx 650m

Time – 2h50min

Grade – Strenuous; a short but exceptionally tough ascent on a steep and sometimes exposed
path. Cables protect the route in places and, at one point, metal pegs provide the holds.

Recommended map(s) – are the 1:50 000 Triglavski Narodni Park or the Julijske Alpe vzhodni
del (eastern) maps, published by PZS. There are also the 1:25 000 Bohinjsko jezero and Triglav
maps, again by PZS.

Equipment – Walking shoes, walking sticks. See our clothing and walking equipment page for
more recommendations.

Refreshments on route – A bar at the Slap Savica car-park, but none on route.

Updates to the 2010, 3rd Edition – There are no updates.

Public transport – The Slap Savica car park can be reached by bus from mid-June until the end
of Septmber. Alternatively, catch a bus to Ukance (Bohinj Zlatorog) and follow the signed path
to the Slap Savica car-park and the start of the walk.

 Click here for up to date bus timetables from Bohinj Bistrica to Slap Savica.
 Click here for up to date bus timetables from Bled to Slap Savica.
 Click here for up to date bus timetables from Bohinj Bistrica to Ukanc.
 Click here for language help reading timetables.

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Car parking in Bohinj – there is a parking charge at all car-parks beside or near Lake Bohinj.
For more details see, our Bohinj information page.

Nearest Town/Village – Bohinjska Bistrica. In the town and nearby villages, including Ribčev
Laz there is a wide range of hotels, apartments, guesthouses and rooms plus there are a couple of
camping sites – Camp Danica at Bohinjska Bistrica is our favourite. The town also has a good
range of shops too.

**Bohinj hotels, rooms & apartments – Book Now!**

**Book Bohinj, Slovenia with Hostelbookers**

Črna jezero

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