From the workshop Maintenance
Quick repairs keep drills running true
Photos: Nicole Baxter.
To test the accuracy of the drill press, use a dial
test indicator (DTI). The unit attaches to an arm on
a magnetic base and is used to measure total
indicated run-out (TIR).
2 Slowly turn the drill spindle by hand, noting the
To test the spindle run-out, remove the chuck.
Align the holes in the spindle and quill as pictured.
The chuck is secured into the spindle by a number
two Morse taper and can be swapped for tapered-
shank drill bits.
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by Josh Giumelli,
KONDININ GROUP
T he humble drill press is one of the most
useful items of workshop machinery but
like all other equipment its accuracy is
affected by wear and tear.
Low-cost drill presses are sometimes
inaccurate when new and can benefit
from a full overhaul even if they have carried
out little work.
There is no point in using a drill press to
drill accurate holes if the machine cannot
maintain accuracy due to problems with
spindle bearings, chuck run-out or quill slop.
The most versatile drill press is the
pedestal drill, which is floor-mounted and can
accommodate a range of work piece sizes.
3 10–12mm diameter, positioning the DTI so the
Insert a wedge through the hole and tap lightly with
a hammer to remove the chuck. Place a hand
under the chuck so it does not fall onto the table
when free.
4
Set up the DTI as shown with the probe bearing
against the machined spindle surface. Adjust the
rotating dial so the needle is on the zero mark at
the point of minimum deflection.
5 A play of more than 0.01mm with the quill fully
maximum and minimum deflection of the needle.
The difference between the two values is the TIR,
which should be less than 0.02 millimetres for a drill
in good condition. If there is significant run-out,
it is likely the spindle is bent or the bearings
are faulty.
Large bench-mounted models often share
the same head unit as the pedestal drill but
have a shorter column.
If buying a drill press, check the prices of
both styles, as often the pedestal drill is
only slightly more expensive than a large
bench model.
Small bench drills (pictured left) are
available for about $80 and are an alternative
for the smaller workshop that cannot
justify the expense of a larger drill press.
These units can drill holes in metal up to 13
millimetres in diameter but also can suffer
from poor quality.
This article will demonstrate how to rectify
drill quality and accuracy problems on small
and large drills and outline what to look for
when buying a secondhand unit.
Reinstall the chuck and insert a drill bit of about
probe bears against the shank as shown. Test in
the same manner pictured previously. If the drill
spindle has proven to be accurate but there is
significant TIR in the chuck (more than 0.01mm), it
might be necessary to install a more accurate
chuck. Note that large chucks do not tend to hold
small diameter drill bits accurately.
To test for quill slop, extend the quill and grasp as
pictured. Move the quill from side to side to detect
any play, using the DTI to measure the exact value.
extended is excessive but is also difficult to correct.
The quill can be replaced but the wear is more
likely to be in the cast-iron body of the drill.
Although a machinist could repair the components,
it could be better either to use another drill or put
up with the problem. It pays to remember that a
drill’s most accurate work will be performed with as
little quill extension as possible.
FA R M I N G A H E A D No. 151 August 2004
 Maintenance From the workshop

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To disassemble the drill press, start by unplugging
the power cord, slacken off the tension adjustment
and remove the V-belts.

14
13 Unscrew the locknuts and remove the quill return
spring as pictured, taking care not to let the spring
The upper shaft should then slide clear of the drill jump out of the casing. Note the position of the
casing and spindle. casing with respect to the body of the drill.

9
Remove the idler pulley as pictured by lifting it
straight up. On some drills a setscrew on the
outside of the drill casing used to retain the idler
might need to be removed first.

10
Remove the left-hand threaded nut, which retains
the spindle pulley. A bar can be placed through This
the quill hole pictured in step three to prevent
the spindle from turning as the nut is removed.
Some units might have a setscrew between the space
pulley grooves instead of the nut.
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11

As the pulley is seated on a taper on the upper

shaft, it might require the use of a three-legged
puller to remove it as pictured.

12

With the pulley removed, unscrew the upper shaft

retaining screw.

FA R M I N G A H E A D No. 151 August 2004 31

 From the workshop
15
With one hand on the quill and the other on the
hand-feed lever, slide out the shaft out as pictured.
16
The quill assembly should then just slide out. If it
becomes tight, try removing the locating screw on
the left-hand side of the drill.
17
With the spindle placed over the bench vice jaws,
tap the splined end with a hammer and block of
wood as pictured. Take care that the spindle does
not fall to the floor after it has been driven from
the bearings.
18
Inspect the spindle for wear, bends or twisting.
Replace the spindle if damage is evident.
Light bends can be straightened with care.
19
Drive out the upper and lower bearings from the
quill using a long drift.
20
With the quill disassembled, attention can now turn
to the upper shaft. Remove the circlip as pictured.
32
Maintenance
25
The six high-quality bearings required to replace the
quill and idler pulley bearings only cost about $30.
21
Place the upper shaft over a bench vice and
carefully drive out the shaft using a brass drift and
hammer. Note the centre ring between the two
bearings is simply a spacer.
26
Using a hammer and block of wood, tap the new
bearings into the quill.
22
Disassemble the idler pulley bearings if they are
worn. Drive out the shaft out as pictured.
27
Gently tap the spindle shaft into the quill.
28
23 Ensure the spindle spline is well greased.
A suitable sized socket and block of wood can
be used to remove the two bearings from the
pulley bore.
24
The quality of bearings fitted to many new 29
drill presses is poor. Out of the four spindle
bearings, only one is fully sealed on this unit. Coat the hand feed shaft and gear with grease
Unsealed bearings allow dirt to enter and grease to before re-assembly, which is a reversal of the
leak out, leading to rapid wear. disassembly procedure.
FA R M I N G A H E A D No. 151 August 2004
 Maintenance From the workshop

32
Using a correct-sized socket, drive the new idler
pulley bearings into the bore.

30

Tap the upper shaft into the new bearings and

spacer. Install the circlip when the shaft is in place.

35
Check the table is square.

33
Turn over the pulley and tap in the shaft.

36
31 Often the scale for the angular adjustment of the
34 table is a sticker, which can prove to be inaccurate.
Install the upper shaft, tighten the locking screw When the table has been levelled, a file mark
and then fit the pulley. Reinstall the idler pulley and V-belts. ensures it can be reset to level easily in the future.

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FA R M I N G A H E A D No. 151 August 2004 33