© Lonely Planet Publications

Contents
On the Road 4 Central, Oro &
Milne Bay Provinces 85
Highlights 5 CENTRAL PROVINCE 88
Hiritano Highway 89
Magi Highway 90
Destination Goilala Region 90
Papua New Guinea KOKODA TRACK 91
& Solomon Islands 12 Planning 91
Getting to & from the Trek 95
The Trek 96
Getting Started 15 Kokoda Track 97
Kokoda 105
Itineraries 19 ORO PROVINCE
Popondetta
105
105
Oro Bay 107
History 22 Tufi
Around Tufi
107
108
MILNE BAY PROVINCE 109
The Culture 33 Alotau
Around Alotau
109
113
North Coast 114
Environment 48 Samarai Island
Near Samarai Island
115
116
D’entrecasteaux Islands 116
Trobriand Islands 118
Diving in Louisade Archipelago 123
Papua New Guinea
& Solomon Islands 55 Morobe & Madang
Provinces 124
Food & Drink 64 History 125
Geography & Climate 125
Culture 127
Port Moresby 68 MOROBE PROVINCE 127
Orientation 69 Lae 128
Huon Gulf Coast 135
Information 70
Finschhafen Area 138
Dangers & Annoyances 72 Wau & Bulolo 139
Sights 73 Menyamya & Aseki 140
Activities 76 MADANG PROVINCE 140
Tours 76 Madang 140
Festivals & Events 76 Around Madang 145
Sleeping 78 North Coast Highway 146
Eating & Drinking 79 Inland 149
South of Madang 149
Entertainment 80
Islands 150
Shopping 81
Getting There & Away 81
Getting Around 82 The Highlands 152
AROUND PORT MORESBY 83 EASTERN HIGHLANDS
Sogeri Road 83 PROVINCE 156
Hiritano Highway 84 Goroka 156
10 CONTENTS

Around Goroka
Kainantu
159
160
Island Provinces 209 Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
293
294
NEW BRITAIN 212
Around Kainantu 161 Food 294
East New Britain Province 213
SIMBU PROVINCE 161 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 294
West New Britain Province 225
Kundiawa 161 Holidays 295
NEW IRELAND PROVINCE 227
Mt Wilhelm 162 Insurance 295
Kavieng 229
Walking to Madang 163 Internet Access 295
Lavongai (New Hanover)
WESTERN HIGHLANDS & East Islands 234 Legal Matters 295
PROVINCE 163 Maps 296
Mt Hagen 164 East Coast 235
West Coast 237 Money 296
Wahgi Valley 168 Photography 297
ENGA PROVINCE 168 Lelet Plateau 237
The South 238 Post 298
Wabag 168 Shopping 298
Around Wabag 169 Eastern Island Groups 238
MANUS PROVINCE 238 Solo Travellers 299
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Telephone & Fax 300
PROVINCE 169 Manus &
Mendi 170 Los Negros Islands 239 Time 301
Ialibu 171 Other Islands 240 Toilets 301
Lake Kutubu 172 NORTH SOLOMONS Tourist Information 301
PROVINCE 240 Travellers with
Kantobo 172 Buka Island 242 Disabilities 301
Mt Bosavi 172 Bougainville 243 Visas 302
Tari 173 Volunteering 303
Kopiago to
Oksapmin 174 Solomon Islands 246 Women Travellers
Work
304
305
GUADALCANAL 247
The Sepik 175 Honiara
Around Honiara
247
258 Transport 306
EAST SEPIK PROVINCE 178
Eastern Guadalcanal 260 GETTING THERE
Wewak 179 & AWAY 306
Weathercoast 261
Around Wewak 183
CENTRAL PROVINCE 261 Entering the Region 306
Maprik Area 184
Nggela Islands 261 Air 306
SANDAUN PROVINCE 185
Savo 262 Land 310
Vanimo 185
Russell Islands 263 Sea 311
Around Vanimo 187
WESTERN PROVINCE 263 Tours 311
Aitape 187
West New Georgia 263 GETTING AROUND 312
Telefomin 188
Marovo Lagoon 266 Air 312
Oksapmin 188
Ghizo Island 270 Bicycle 315
THE SEPIK
& ITS TRIBUTARIES 188 Islands Around Ghizo 274 Boat 315
Travel on the MALAITA PROVINCE 274 Car & Motorcycle 317
Sepik 191 Malaita Island 274 Hitching 318
Upper Sepik 193 RENNELL & BELLONA Local Transport
Middle Sepik 194 PROVINCE 279 in Urban Areas 318
Lower Sepik 197 Rennell 279 PMV 318
Tributaries & Lakes 198 Bellona 281 Tours 319
Walking 319

Gulf & Western Directory 282

Provinces 200 Accommodation 282 Health 320
GULF PROVINCE 201 Activities 285 BEFORE YOU GO 320
Kerema 202 Business Hours 290 Insurance 320
Around Gulf Province 203 Children 290 Recommended
Climate Charts 290 Vaccinations 320
WESTERN PROVINCE 204
Daru 205 Customs Regulations 291 Medical Checklist 320
Around Western Dangers & Annoyances 291 Internet Resources 321
Province 205 Discount Cards 293 Further Reading 321
 © Lonely Planet Publications
C O N T E N T S 11

IN PNG
& SOLOMON ISLANDS 321 Language 327 Index 340
Availability & Cost of
Health Care
Infectious Diseases
321
322
Glossary 331 GreenDex 348
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 323
Environmental The Authors 333 World Time Zones 350
Hazards 324
Traditional
Medicine 326 Behind the Scenes 335 Map Legend 352

Regional Map Contents

The Sepik Island
pp178-9 Provinces
pp210-11

Morobe & Madang

Provinces
pp126-7

The Highlands
pp154-5

Gulf & Western

Provinces Solomon
pp202-3 Port Moresby
pp70-1 Islands
Central, Oro & p248
Milne Bay Provinces
pp86-7

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
12
You can buy, download and
print individual chapters from
this guidebook.
Destination Get Papua New Guinea &
Solomon Islands chapters>
Papua New Guinea
& Solomon Islands
In both Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, you should not judge
the country by its capital. Port Moresby has a rotten international reputation
and despite complaints from PNG politicians that this is the fault of the media,
unsavoury situations continue. Port Moresby and Honiara are ringed with ugly
urban squatter settlements, and neither is indicative of the incredible natural
beauty and warm Melanesian generosity to be found in the provinces.
Yet even in the ugliest of these squatter settlements people grow flowers –
Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders have a powerful connection to
the soil and seem able to grow almost anything, as displayed by the patchwork
of gardens on the barren hills around their capital cities. Despite the urban
drift, people retain strong links to their clan and village. Hard-nosed econo-
mists regard the defence of traditional ‘land rights’ as a major impediment
to economic progress, and both countries are looking at customary land
reform as a way to find a middle ground between the rights of traditional
land-holders and development. However, in these lands where gardening is
FAST FACTS – next to godliness, few people go hungry and villagers with no cash income
PNG at all can still feed themselves. The wantok system, where clanspeople look
after each other, is both a blessing and a curse.
Population: 6.25 million
PNG’s economy relies upon huge resource projects. First it was the
GDP: US$4.3 billion Bougainville copper mine, majority-owned by Australia’s CRA (Conzinc
GDP growth: 4.5% Riotinto of Australia) with a 19% PNG government shareholding. But that
Inflation: 4.3%
closed after plunging Bougainville into a messy 10-year secessionist war.
The Ok Tedi copper mine followed, built in the geologically unstable Star
Languages spoken: 820
Mountains where constructing a waste dam was considered so risky that the
Languages spoken per waste was instead dumped into the Fly River. Other big projects – Porgera
adult: 3 and Lihir gold mines and the Kutubu oilfields – have provided sorely needed
Land border with export revenue. China could be the next big mining investor. PNG was des-
Indonesia: 820km perately hoping a gas pipeline to Queensland would be its economic saviour,
but the project was scrapped in 2006 when developers Exxon Mobil and
Parliamentary political Oil Search decided it was too expensive. Another proposed pipeline from
parties: 45 Western Province gas fields to Gove in the Northern Territory might yet go
Indigenous counting ahead – Canada’s Alcan and British Rift Oil are partners in this project. But
systems: More than 50 these huge projects employ relatively few locals and most families instead
(one is based on joints of survive on growing cash-crops – coffee, cocoa, copra and oil palm. The price
the body and the nose) for PNG vanilla, which was making growers rich just a few years ago, has
fallen through the floor.
Number of airports: 492
PNG’s biggest problem is neither its crime nor corruption but a dysfunc-
tional political system. The Australian-inherited Westminster system cannot
cope with a bewildering political paradigm where MPs represent 820 languages
and have little or no allegiance to their political party. The 109 members are
essentially free agents who regularly cross the floor to vote with the opposi-
tion, resulting in 109 cross-purposes. As a consequence, until the most recent
election in 2007, no prime minister in the 32 years of independence (since
1975) had served a full, five-year term without being brought down in a no-
confidence vote – survival, not policy, tends to be the focus of PNG politics.
D E S T I N AT I O N PA P UA N E W G U I N E A & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S 13
A treaty was signed on 30 June 2004 between PNG and Australia to imple-
ment the Enhanced Cooperation Program (ECP) to help PNG address con-
tinuing challenges in law and order, governance and economic management.
A deployment of 210 Australian Federal Police and 64 officials were leaving
for PNG when the PNG Supreme Court ruled on 13 May 2005 in favour of
Morobe Governor Luther Wenge’s challenge to the operation. Under the
terms of the ECP, Australian police and officials were to have immunity
against prosecution under PNG law. Wenge successfully argued that this
provision was unconstitutional and the ECP fell over, but there are currently
about 40 Australian civilians deployed in PNG in advisory roles. This new,
hands-on approach is a bold experiment under Australia’s new cooperative
intervention policy, which led to the (so far) successful Regional Assistance
Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI). But some – including the enigmatic
Solomons prime minister Manasseh Sogavare – decry this interventionism
as outright Australian neo-colonialism.
In the July 2007 election ‘Grand Chief’ Sir Michael Somare became the
first prime minister to serve a full term and then be re-elected. After the
2002 national elections saw widespread violence in the Highlands, many
were expecting trouble, but the 2007 election was remarkably peaceful and
trouble-free. This was PNG’s first election using a limited preferential voting
system and had the unexpected results of tipping out former prime ministers
Rabbi Namaliu and Pius Wingti – voters were used to the first-past-the-post
electoral system and didn’t realise the importance of allocating their prefer-
ences. Another surprise was the re-emergence of former prime minister
Julius Chan as the minister for New Ireland Provincial. Chan had resigned
in disgrace in 1997 over the scandalous Sandline Affair (see p241).
Somare was returned to power with trouble at home and a telecommuni-
cations industry in disarray (see p300), and trouble abroad with continuing
fallout from the Moti Affair (see p31). Corruption remains a major problem
in the country’s politics and almost everyone you speak to – from grassroots
to the educated elite – will bemoan the state of representative democracy
in PNG.
FAST FACTS –
In the Solomon Islands, the RAMSI deployment has been in its peace-
SOLOMON
keeping role since mid-2003 with seemingly no end in sight. The ethnic ten-
ISLANDS
sion that led to the 2000 coup that ousted then-prime minister Bartholomew
Ulufa’alu (who died in 2007) seems to have settled dramatically – so much Population: 534,000
so that the first post-coup national elections were held in April 2006. The GDP: US$394 million
election of controversial Snyder Rini as prime minister resulted in two days of Languages spoken: 70
rioting and anarchy in the streets of Honiara, in which the historic Chinatown
and huge Pacific Casino Hotel were razed. Australia flew in reinforcements People per telephone: 79
for the RAMSI personnel. Allegations were made that Rini used bribe-money Number of airports: 33
from Asian business interests to secure the votes of MPs. To the people on American and Japanese
the street, Rini symbolised everything that was corrupt about Solomons warships sunk in Iron
politics and, after a no-confidence vote, he resigned just eight days after the Bottom Sound: 67
election. The subsequent ascension of Manasseh Sogavare as prime minister
immediately brought calm to the Solomons capital. Number of islands in the
Solomons group: 992
The Solomons is just one of a handful of countries that recognises Taiwan
as an independent country, and Taiwanese largesse has been lining the Percentage of land that is
pockets of Solomons’ members of parliament for years. Some among the cultivable: 30%
Asian community in the Solomon Islands were said to have bribed their Annual rainfall on
way to residency and into the country’s sphere of influence. Thus the Guadalcanal’s Weather-
resentment of the Chinese community that had been bubbling away for coast: 12m!
a long time exploded into violence and anarchy, and terrorised many
honest long-term Asian expatriates to the point where they finally fled the
Solomons for good.
© Lonely Planet Publications
14 D E S T I N AT I O N PA P UA N E W G U I N E A & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S

But Manasseh Sogavare turned out to be a controversial figure himself

and the antipathy between his administration and the Australian govern-
ment rendered the bilateral relationship dysfunctional, despite the ongoing
RAMSI operations. Sogavare expelled the Australian High Commissioner
Patrick Cole in September 2006 alleging Cole undermined his leadership
and meddled in Solomons’ affairs. Sogavare survived several votes of
no-confidence, but continued to alienate many members of parliament
and Solomons leaders with his appointment of controversial Julian Moti
(see p31) as the Solomons’ Attorney General, and his intentions to expel
Australia from RAMSI and reissue firearms to the police force. On 13
December 2007, Sogavare finally lost a no-confidence motion and one
week later the Member for North East Guadalcanal Derek Sikua was
elected as the 13th prime minister of the Solomon Islands. One of his
first acts was to extradite Julian Moti to Australia on Christmas Day.
The Solomons economy relies on the export of copra and palm oil. The
islands’ timber resources have been seriously overexploited – often illegally –
and it also exports processed tuna. A 2007 Anglican Church of Melanesia
study reported on widespread commercial child sexual exploitation asso-
ciated with an Asian logging company around Arosi in Makira Province.
The Gold Ridge Mine, 40km southeast of Honiara, operated for only
one year until it was closed by ethnic tensions and abandoned in June
2000. In that year it produced 30% of the Solomons’ GDP. New owners
Australian Solomons Gold anticipate reinstating commercial operations
in the first half of 2008, with an expected output of 150,000 ounces of
gold per annum.
In early April 2007, 54 people were killed and thousands left home-
less after a tsunami struck Western and Choiseul provinces. Gizo, the
Solomons’ second-largest city, was at the centre of the disaster and the
subsequent relief effort.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
15

Getting Started
Travelling in PNG and the Solomon Islands can be challenging. With almost no
tourism infrastructure and limited information available in books and on web-
sites, it can feel like you’re stepping into the great unknown. But this is exactly
why travellers find these places so compelling. Nothing is contrived for tourists
and every experience is authentic. The striking natural beauty and myriad
complex cultures offer some riveting and truly life-affirming experiences.

WHEN TO GO
PNG and the Solomons have some of the most variable climates on earth,
See Climate Charts (p290)
which can confound the best of travel planning. The wet season is roughly from
for more information.
December to March and the dry is from May to October. April and November
are anyone’s guess. There are, however, plenty of exceptions to this pattern (Lae
and Alotau are wet when everywhere else is dry); see the regional chapters for
details. The months from June to September are cooler, drier and better to visit
PNG and the Solomons, but it’s generally hot and humid year-round.
It’s worth scheduling your trip around a festival or event (p294), such
as one of the unforgettable cultural shows that are held between July and
October. If you plan on trekking (p288), diving (p286), surfing (p287) or
looking for that elusive bird, see the relevant activities information in this
book in each region about the best times to go.
There are no high or low tourist seasons in PNG and the Solomons, but
at Christmas, Easter and other major holidays (p295), hotels can fill up, and
international flights can be hard to book. You’ll need to book your accommo-
dation (p282) ahead if you’re in a town during one of the cultural shows.

COSTS & MONEY

You’d think PNG, being a developing country next to dirt-cheap Indonesia,
would be an inexpensive place to travel. It’s not. The reason is that the cost of

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

„ Valid travel insurance, noting the emergency phone and policy numbers (p295)
„ Anti-malarial prophylactics (p323) and a basic first-aid kit
„ Insect repellent, hat and sunscreen
„ Good footwear, lightweight trousers and a long-sleeved shirt for protection against sunburn
and natnats (mosquitoes)
„ Poncho-style raincoat that covers your backpack and opens into a groundsheet
„ Snorkel, mask, rash vest and reef shoes, and C-card and logbook if you’re a diver
„ Swiss Army Knife with scissors and can opener, tin plate and camping cutlery set
„ A torch (flashlight) for late-night toilet expeditions (vital in a village)
„ A sleeping sheet, mosquito net (only the box-style type) and inflatable hiker’s sleeping mat if
you’re sleeping rough (in villages)
„ Bottle of sweet-chilli sauce (or other condiments) to spice up the village diet
„ Books (the bookshops are crap) for village kids
„ A sweater if you’re going to the Highlands
„ Sense of humour and a deep well of patience – your best plans will go awry at some point.
16 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T o p 1 0 17

In do ne sia
UA
doing anything in PNG is unreasonably high. Loan interest rates have fallen NEW Na ur u
from over 20% in recent years, but they remain high and repayment periods
are short. Virtually everything is imported and there’s little competition
despite the usual free-market forces.
For the traveller, this means sleeping, eating and getting around are all
TOP 10 G U IN E A
SOLOMO
relatively expensive. But the biggest single factor is that fact that getting BEST BOOKS & FILMS
anywhere within PNG and the Solomons usually means flying and there the Many books and films on the region have a distinctly anthropological slant because the truth
HOW MUCH costs add up rapidly. Backpackers are doing well if they can get by on less about PNG and Solomon Islands cultures is often stranger than fiction. The films are hard to find;
PNG? than K178 (US$60) per day, staying in guesthouses, self-catering and eating try www.roninfilms.com.au, or see p42.
in cheap restaurants and at kai bars (cheap, takeaway food bars). Budget any
Midrange hotel room flights on top of that. If you’re staying in good hotels and resorts, eating in the 1 Throwim Way Leg (1998), written by Tim 6 In a Savage Land (1999), directed by Bill
K100-400 better restaurants, with activities and flights, the sky is the limit, but figure Flannery Bennett
1hr internet access on about K890 (US$300) per day. There are plenty of midrange options and 2 Papua New Guinea: People, Politics, and 7 First Contact (1983), directed by Bob
K15-35 couples or pairs pay less per person – most midrange solo travellers staying History Since 1975 (2000), written by Sean Connolly & Robin Anderson
Bilum (string bag) K50 in the main towns can expect to spend about US$100 per day. However, Dorney
your expenses plummet if you get off the beaten track. Wandering off to 8 The Shark Callers of Kontu (1987), directed
Meal in a cheap 3 Happy Isles of Oceania (1992), written by by Dennis O’Rourke
stay in the villages is not only a great way to see the country and witness the
restaurant K18 Paul Theroux
culture, it’s also inexpensive: food and lodging will cost you about K50 per 9 Betelnut Bisnis (2004), directed by Chris
Bekim moni (‘payback’ or night, often less (p284). The steady devaluation of both the kina in PNG and 4 Visitants (1979), written by Randolph Stow Owen
compensation money) for the Solomon Islands dollar have made travelling slightly cheaper in recent
5 Argonauts of the Western Pacific (1922), 10 Robinson Crusoe (1996), directed by Daniel
running over a dog K250- years. But tourism facilities tend to use imported goods.
written by Bronislaw Malinowski Defoe
14,000 depending on Happily, travelling in the Solomon Islands is a little less expensive than
your negotiating skills PNG, with cheaper transport, hotels and food.
OUR FAVOURITE TREKS
TRAVEL LITERATURE There are dozens of challenging treks in Papua New Guinea and the Solomons. Here are a few
Michael Moran’s excellent Beyond the Coral Sea sees the author retrace the of our favourites.
steps of some of the colourful characters and empire-builders who were so
influential in forming the country you see today. 1 Kokoda Track (PNG; p91) 6 Walking New Ireland’s remote west coast
Solomon Time: An Unlikely Quest in the South Pacific, by Will Randall, road (PNG; p237)
is an unassuming and well-written tale of a naive Englishman who finds 2 Mt Wilhelm trek (PNG; p162)
himself on a remote Solomons island, breeding chickens. 3 Crater Mountain Wildlife Management Area 7 Kopiago to Oksapmin (PNG; p174)
Four Corners: Into the Heart of New Guinea, by Kira Salak, retraces the trek (PNG; p160) 8 Mt Wilhelm to Madang trek (PNG; p163)
1927 journey of British explorer Ivan Champion by foot and canoe, and 4 Black Cat Track (PNG; p137) 9 Wedau to Alotau on the northeastern tip of
his meetings with missionaries, cannibals and incredible landscapes. the PNG mainland (PNG; p114)
Legendary swashbuckler Errol Flynn’s autobiography, My Wicked, 5 Climbing up Kombiu (Mt Mother) volcano
HOW MUCH (PNG; p223) 10 Blazing a trail over Guadalcanal’s mountain-
SOLOMON
Wicked Ways, covers the actor’s six formative years in New Guinea. It’s
engaging and relevant, and almost single-handedly informed the world- ous interior from the north coast to the wild
ISLANDS? and undeveloped Weathercoast (SI; p261)
view of New Guinea at the time.
Midrange hotel room Into the Crocodile Nest keeps you turning the pages as author and
S$200-400 masochist-traveller Benedict Allen becomes the first white man initiated
1hr internet access into an obscure crocodile cult on the Sepik River.
S$15 Mister Pip, by New Zealander Lloyd Jones, was shortlisted for the 2007 TOP DIY CULTURAL EXPERIENCES
Booker Prize. It tells the story of an inspirational white schoolteacher in The Melanesian experience can be as culturally rich as you allow it to be. Go ahead and try:
Meal in a cheap
restaurant S$25 Bougainville in the 1990s during the blockade and war.
1 Learning new dance steps at a Highland 6 Setting a fish trap in the Sepik River
Bekim moni (‘payback’ or singsing (celebratory festival/dance) 7 Eating freshly slaughtered pig at a village
compensation money) INTERNET RESOURCES 2 Watching the Asaro mud men celebration
for running over a dog There isn’t a vast array of websites about PNG and the Solomons, but new
S$500-8000s ones are appearing and existing sites are improving. Some worth looking 3 Playing garamuts (a hollowed log) and 8 Learning to prepare sago and a mumu
at before you leave: kundu (hour-glassed shaped, lizard-skin) (underground oven)
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) The Thorn Tree bulletin board and Postcards have invalu- drums, nose flutes and jew’s-harps 9 Sleeping in a haus tambaran (spirit house)
able up-to-date information and tips. 4 Chewing betel nut 10 Commissioning or buying a piece from a
National (www.thenational.com.pg) Website of the daily National newspaper.
5 Drinking the juice of a green coconut Sepik master carver
PNG Buai (www.pngbuai.com) The clever acronym stands for PNG Books, Useful Articles and
Information. It’s a valuable source for each topic.
© Lonely Planet Publications
18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s lonelyplanet.com

PNG Business Directory (www.pngbd.com) PNG’s ‘business and tourism’ website can be
awkward to navigate, but it has handy information and plenty of photos.
PNG Gossip Newsletter (www.png-gossip.com) Primarily a bulletin-board, this site also has
good links and posts some interesting news items.
PNG Tourism (www.png-tourism.com) This new website is an initiative of the PNG Tourism
Promotion Authority. It has useful information and links to all the major inbound tour companies.
It’s the best place to start when researching your trip.
PNG Tourism Promotion Authority (www.pngtourism.org.pg) The official website of PNG’s
peak tourism body. Has good links.
Post Courier (www.postcourier.com.pg) Website of the Post Courier newspaper that provides
updates of the daily news.
Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau (www.visitsolomons.com.sb) Travel information and visas.
Solomon Star (www.solomonstarnews.com) The Solomons’ daily newspaper also publishes on
the web.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
19

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTE
MAINLAND ODYSSEY Two to Three Weeks / Port Moresby to Madang
From Port Moresby (p68), fly to sleepy Alotau (p109) at the eastern end of This tour of
the mainland. Take a boat out to the colonial-era capital of Samarai Island mainland PNG
(p115) before returning via historic Kwato Island (p116). Fly to Lae (p128)
takes in the coast,
and check out the Rainforest Habitat (p129) and Salamaua (p136). Take a bus
up the Highlands Hwy to Goroka (p156) and see the Goroka Show (p158), or the Highlands and
visit the Asaro mud men (p159). the Sepik. It’s busy,
Back on the bus, make your way to Betty’s Place (p163) at Kegsugl for and with so many
the amazing Mt Wilhelm climb (p162). Travel onward to Mt Hagen (p164), flights it’s pricey,
enjoying the spectacular scenery and a game of Highlands darts. If there’s
no clan warfare going on, continue along the highway to Tari (p173) via but if you want
Mendi (p170) and stunning Lake Kutubu (p172), but if the feisty Southern more time and/or
Highlanders are fighting you’d better do this leg by aeroplane – the beauti- want to save
ful Tari Basin (p173) is worth it. Don’t miss the Huli Wigmen (p173). money cut out the
Fly to coastal Wewak (p179) and the Sepik area, and take a boat up the
Alotau leg and fly
mighty Sepik River (p188). Fly from Wewak to a luxury resort in Madang
(p140) and relax. straight to Lae.

Wewak

Sepik
River

Mt
Madang
Wilhelm
Mt Hagen
Goroka New Britain
Tari Waghi
Valley
Kegsugl
Lake Mendi
Kutubu Lae

Salamaua

Route
ative
Altern
PORT MORESBY

Alotau

Samarai I &
Kwato I
 © Lonely Planet Publications
20 IRTUI N ENRI NA GR HI EESA D• • • •R oRaudnLe
n i snsg sT ur abvheelal edd www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com R U N NIITNI GNHE RE A DR I E•S• •R•u nTan i nl ogre
S udb Threiapds 21

ROAD LESS TRAVELLED TAILORED TRIPS

BOUGAINVILLE & BEYOND Three to Four Weeks / Lae to Honiara BATTLEFIELD NEW GUINEA Three Weeks / Port Moresby to Rabaul
This nautical extravaganza has a Joseph Conrad feel to it; taking slow boats to PNG is littered with rusting relics of WWII both above and below the
Being on a boat or remote places, crossing borders without showing passports, living and moving water. Start in Port Moresby (p68) and get a feel for the challenges faced by
under a palm tree as locals do. In Lae (p128), find a boat to Kimbe (p225) – you might have to wait, the troops by walking the Kokoda Track (p91). From Kokoda, continue on
but you’ll get used to waiting on this trip. From Kimbe head down to the Walindi to Popondetta (p105) and spend a day visiting the overgrown remains of
for at least three the Japanese bases at Buna and Gona (p106).
Plantation Resort (p227) for some diving or snorkelling with (if you’re lucky)
weeks, covering killer whales, and return for the twice-weekly boat to Rabaul (p219). Take a boat to Lae (p128) and visit the Lae War Cemetery (p129) before
more than 1200km, In Rabaul, head out to Matupit Island (p223) to check out belching Tavurvur tracking back down the coast to Salamaua (p136). Check out the Japanese
should give you (p219), the volcano that buried the Pacific’s prettiest city, before getting guns and tunnels on the Salamaua peninsula Rabaul

plenty of time to under the water at the WWII-era Submarine Base (p223). Sleep in the excel- and trek up part of the Black Cat Track (p137) to
Alexishafen
lent value Rabaul Hotel (p221), a great place to chill out until the boat leaves the battlefield at Mt Tambu.
read. We recom- Returning to Lae, take a PMV to Madang Madang
for Buka Island (p242).
mend Beyond At booming Buka take in Sohano Island (p242) and buy supplies for the (p140), crossing the Finisterre Ranges through Finisterre
Ranges
the Coral Sea by next leg of the journey that takes you across the Buka Passage to Bougainville which Allied troops pursued the retreating
Lae
Michael Moran. Island and beyond. Head down the east coast to Arawa (p244), and then to Japanese after the fall of Lae. In Madang, visit
Salamaua
Buin (p245), via Aropa, for the quasi-legal border crossing known as the Gun the Coastwatchers’ Memorial (p142) and Alexishafen Black
Cat Mt Tambu
Run (p314), because it was once used by Bougainville Revolutionary Army (p147), where bomb craters and Japanese bomb- Track

rebels to smuggle guns from the Solomon Islands. Spend your waiting time ers can be seen around the wartime airstrip.
on Buin trekking to Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft wreck (p245). Fly to Rabaul (p219) and visit the East New
Buna & Gona
After the three-hour canoe ride to the mangroves of the Shortland Britain Historical & Cultural Centre (p214) in Kokopo, Popondetta

Islands, fly from Ballalae Island to Gizo (p270), where the diving and WWII snorkel around Submarine Base (p223) and check Kokoda
Port Moresby Track
history is amazing (and you can pass through immigration). Island hop out the Japanese Barge Tunnels (p218).
from here all the way to Honiara (p247), via the WWII war dumps at Munda
(p264) and idyllic Uepi Island Resort (p267) in the marine wildlife wonder- RIPPING THE CURL
land that is Marovo Lagoon (p266). PNG and the Solomons are emerging as great surfing destinations for those
wanting to immerse themselves in tropical waters and friendly Melanesian
culture. On the north side, monsoon swells come in from October to April,
while PNG’s southern side gets waves from June to September. Some of
these breaks are just newly discovered: this is for intrepid surfer-explorers.
BYO boards.
Start at Vanimo (p185), near the Indonesian border, and surf off Lido
Rabaul & Village where reef breaks peel left and right. Then fly to Aitape (p187) for
Matupit I
Tavurvur
some simple village accommodation and some unexplored surf breaks.
At Wewak (p179) there are waves at Moem Point and nearby Muschu,
Kairuru and Wallis islands. On the coast north of Madang (p140) there
New Britain
Buka I
Buka are great point breaks up towards Bogia (p147). Take a plane or a slow
Walindi
Plantation
Kimbe Sohano I boat to Kavieng (p229) where the guys from Nusa
Morobe
Province
Resort Bougainville Arawa
Island Retreat (p232) will take you to breaks like
Admiral Yamamoto's
Lae Aircraft Wreck Pikinini. Go to Manus where the reef break off
Buin
Ballalae I
Shortland Is Ahus Island (p239) can be huge.
Fly to the Solomon Islands and take a boat Vanimo Ahus Island
to the Nggelas (p261) where Maravagi Resort on Aitape Kavieng
Wewak
Gizo Marovo
Lagoon Mangalonga Island (p262) has several breaks. Back
Munda
New Georgia I at Honiara catch a plane or the MV Pelican Madang
Vangunu I
Express to Gizo (p270) and surf the reef breaks at Nggelas/
HONIARA Pailongge, Titiana and Makuti Island, and near Gizo & Lola Island Mangalonga
Resort
Zipolo Habu Resort on Lola Island (p265).
Guadalcanal I
Be a trail-blazer and catch a light plane out to
Makira Ulawa
rarely visited Makira Ulawa (p280) and surf the leg-
endary breaks at Star Harbour and Tawarogha.
For more surfing information see p287.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
333

THE AUTHORS
The Authors
ROWAN MCKINNON
Coordinating Author, Destination, Getting Started, Itineraries,
History, The Culture, Food & Drink, Port Moresby, Directory, Transport
Rowan, a freelance writer and musician, has been travelling to Papua New
Guinea and the Solomons for 20 years. He first went to PNG in 1988 as a
musician with arty world-beat band Not Drowning Waving to record at Pacific
Gold Studios in Rabaul – years before the volcanic eruptions destroyed the
pretty town. He’s written for three successive editions of Lonely Planet’s
Papua New Guinea, and twice contributed the Solomons chapter to Lonely
Planet’s South Pacific, so this part of the world is like a home away from
home. Rowan lives in Melbourne, Australia, with his partner and kids, and
an odds-and-sods collection of Melanesian objets d’art.

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET
Diving in Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands,
Island Provinces, Solomon Islands
A Paris-based journalist and photographer, Jean-Bernard is a hopeless South
Pacific addict and has travelled the length and breadth of the Grand Océan,
from Easter Island to New Caledonia and from the Cook Islands to Vanuatu.
A diving instructor, he also taught diving in the turquoise lagoons of French
Polynesia. For this edition he was all too happy to don his mask again to
check out the best dive sites in the Solomon Sea and to explore the rugged
islands of New Guinea and the Solomons. Seen from a café in Montmartre,
he can’t think of a more antipodean experience.

DEAN STARNES
Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces, Morobe & Madang Provinces,
The Highlands, The Sepik, Gulf & Western Provinces
Dean was literately thrown into the deep end on this assignment when the
banana boat he was travelling in was swamped by a series of waves and
sunk off a remote stretch of the Gulf Province’s coast. Despite this ordeal,
Dean reports that Papua New Guinea isn’t as dangerous as the international
press makes out and hopes this guide will encourage others to explore
this wild frontier. When not on the road for Lonely Planet, Dean works as
a part-time graphic designer in Auckland, New Zealand. Photographs and
travel stories from this and other trips can be seen at his website www
.deanstarnes.com.

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent,
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how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
THE AUTHORS 334 T H E A U T H O R S lonelyplanet.com

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Lina Abirafeh wrote the Solo Women Travellers boxed text (p304). Lina is a gender and development
practitioner and PhD candidate with 11 years of development experience. She currently works in PNG,
focusing on gender issues, particularly gender-based violence, in the context of HIV/AIDS. Lina has also
worked in Sierra Leone, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Morocco, running programmes for women.

Peter FitzSimons wrote the Kokoda Track colour section. Peter writes for The Sydney Morning Herald
and the Sun-Herald. In the course of his journalistic career he has interviewed everyone from President
George Bush Sr to Diego Maradona to Matt Damon. He has played for the Wallabies, written 18 books
and was Australia’s best-selling nonfiction author in 2001 and 2004, the latter with his book on Kokoda.
Married to television presenter Lisa Wilkinson, Peter has three children and lives in Sydney.

Tim Flannery wrote the Environment chapter. Tim is a naturalist, explorer and author of a number of
award-winning books, including The Future Eaters, Throwim Way Leg (an account of his adventures as
a biologist in New Guinea) and The Eternal Frontier – a landmark ecological history of North America.
Tim has been Director of the South Australian Museum, professor at the University of Adelaide and
Principal Research Scientist at the Australian Museum in Sydney. In 2007 Tim was awarded the Aus-
tralian of the Year. He is currently an adjunct professor at Macquarie University. His most recent book
is The Weather Makers.

Michael Sorokin wrote the Health chapter. Michael was born in South Africa, graduated from the Uni-
versity of Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, and holds the Fellowship of the Royal College of Physicians
of Edinburgh. Having travelled widely in the West Melanesian region, he was a district medical officer
in the Solomons, lecturer at the Fiji School of Medicine, consultant physician in Lautoka, Fiji, and was
awarded the Fijian President’s medal for medical services in that country. Currently he is a tutor at the
University of Adelaide’s Medical Education unit and consults in a travel medicine clinic.

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 © Lonely Planet Publications
22 lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Polynesians & Malay Traders 23

settlements – ritual head-hunting, slave-raiding and cannibalism were com-

History mon. People worshipped ancestors, not gods.

POLYNESIANS & MALAY TRADERS

THE FIRST ARRIVALS
Archaeological evidence suggests humans first reached New Guinea, and then
Australia and the Solomon Islands, by island hopping across the Indonesian
archipelago from Asia at least 60,000 years ago. The migrations were made
easier by a fall in the sea level during the Pleistocene period, or Great Ice
Age, and by a land bridge that linked PNG with northern Australia. The
descendents of these people speak non-Austronesian (or Papuan) languages
and are today called Melanesians. The Solomon Islands formed the eastern
edge of the inhabited Pacific until the second great wave of colonisation
began only about 3000 years ago. This second wave of migration is identi-
fied with the dispersion of distinctive ornately decorated pottery fragments
known today as Lapita pottery, named after an archaeological site in New
Caledonia. Archaeologists have claimed that ‘Lapita people’ were the first
In 1927 an 18-year-old culturally complex people to inhabit the Pacific and some have likened the
Errol Flynn arrived in
impact of their arrival to that of Europeans in the Americas. They were
New Guinea. He worked speakers of Austronesian languages and it was in Tonga and Samoa that
as a cadet patrol officer, they developed into the people we now call Polynesians.
gold prospector, slaver,
plantation manager, THE WORLD’S FIRST AGRICULTURALISTS
copra trader, charter-boat Evidence of early New Guinea coastal settlements includes 40,000-year-old
captain, pearl diver and stone axes found in Morobe Province. It is believed humans climbed up to
a diamond smuggler for settle in the Highlands about 30,000 years ago. At Kuk (or Kup) Swamp in
six years. He called New the Wahgi Valley in Western Highlands Province, archaeologists have found
Guinea one of the great evidence of human habitation going back 20,000 years and there is evidence
loves of his life. of gardening beginning 9000 years ago, which makes Papua New Guineans
among the world’s first farmers. They cultivated breadfruit, sago, coconuts,
yams and sugar cane (which originated in New Guinea). New Ireland, Buka
and the Solomon Islands were probably inhabited around 30,000 years ago
and Manus Island 10,000 years ago.
Elsewhere in the world, the development of agriculture resulted in the
establishment of cities and an elite class, but this did not happen in New
Guinea or the Solomon Islands. Perhaps this was because basic food crops
could not be stored long so food couldn’t be stockpiled. It’s not known when
pigs and more productive starch crops (Asian yams, taro and bananas) were
introduced but New Guineans have had domesticated pigs for at least 10,000
years. People lived in small villages on well-established tribal lands practising
shifting cultivation, fishing and hunting. Coastal people built canoes, and
feasting and dancing were regular activities. Each settlement comprised
just one extended family as well as the captives from raiding neighbouring
Between AD 1200 and AD 1600 some Polynesians started heading westward
again and, finding most of the islands of New Guinea and the Solomons
already inhabited, settled some of the remaining isolated islands and atolls.
They travelled vast distances in small canoes. Today some parts of PNG
and the Solomon Islands remain as isolated Polynesian outposts – the ‘Today some
Trobriands in PNG’s Milne Bay Province and Mortlock (Takuu) Islands in
PNG’s North Solomons Province, and the Temotus, Ontong Java, and Rennell
parts of
and Bellona in the Solomon Islands are examples. Polynesian settlements in PNG and the
the Solomons regularly suffered raids between the 14th and 18th centuries Solomon
from eastern Polynesians from Tonga and Tokelau, seeking to exact tribute
for their rulers.
Islands
By the mid-16th century, sweet potatoes were being taken from South remain as
America into Southeast Asia by the Portuguese and Spanish, and Malay isolated
traders brought them to the western part of the New Guinea island. The high
yield of sweet potatoes in cold climes allowed for the colonisation of still
Polynesian
higher altitudes in the Highlands and the domestication of many more pigs. outposts’
Around this time steel axe-heads were traded into the Highlands from the
coast. These developments saw huge population increases, and an increase
in war, slave-trading and head-hunting.
THE FIRST EUROPEAN CONTACT
The first definite European sighting of the New Guinea island was in 1512,
when Portuguese sailor Antonio d’Abreu sighted the coast. However, it
wasn’t until 1526 that another Portuguese, Jorge de Menezes, became the
first European to set foot on the main island – he named it Ilhas dos Papuas.
But New Guinea was regarded as a large, daunting place with no obvious
wealth to exploit and very hostile natives, so it was largely left alone while
European colonists plundered the Americas. In fact it was the Solomons that
first fired the imagination of Europeans.
MENDAÑA & THE STORY OF SOLOMON
In the early 1560s in Spanish-occupied Peru there was a story about a group
of islands in the far western Pacific that was visited by an Inca king called
Tupac Yupanqui about 100 years earlier. He had brought back gold and
dark-skinned slaves. In November 1567, Don Alvaro de Mendaña y Neyra,
the 25-year-old nephew of Peru’s Spanish viceroy, set out in two ships to
find the islands or the legendary Great Southern Land. He first saw Tuvalu
then Roncador Reef near Ontong Java, and on 7 February 1568 he saw a
large island and named it Santa Isabel. Mendaña and his men gave many

60,000 BC 30,000 BC 7000 BC 1000 BC AD 1200–1600 1400–1800

The Ice Age of the Pleistocene
period allows the first humans
to island hop their way to
New Guinea and the Solomon
Islands
Papuan-speaking hunter-
gatherers from New Guinea
settle islands in eastern
Solomons before the sea levels
rise with end of the Ice Age in
10,000 BC
The first evidence of food
gardens and domesticated pigs
makes New Guineans among
the world’s first agriculturalists
The second great wave of
migration in the Pacific associ-
ated with proto-Polynesian
‘Lapita people’ colonises
islands east of the Solomons
Westward migration of
Polynesians settle some of
the remaining isolated island
groups and atolls of the
Solomons and New Guinea
Solomons’ Polynesian
communities on the outlying
atolls and islands are subjugated
by Tongan and Tokelauan rulers
who send raiding parties to
murder, plunder, extort and
enslave them
 24 HISTORY •• European Exploration lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Colonialism 25

the Solomons. The following year Louis-Antoine de Bougainville discov-

SOLOMONS LEGENDARY PEOPLE
The first Polynesians are said to have come across the Hiti people on Rennell and Bellona. They
had furry skin and made off with the women. There are still allegedly sightings of Hiti people
on Bellona. Others tell of pygmy like pre-Melanesian people called the Kakamoras who hid in
mountain caves on Santa Isabel, Makira, Choiseul and Guadalcanal. They had long straight hair
and pointy teeth. Then there are stories of the Mumutambu people of the Nggela Islands and
the Sinipi of Choiseul.
Nobody knows whether any of these people ever existed, and academics tend to laugh at such
stories. But then a few years ago, scientists found the skeletons of Homo floresiensis or ‘hobbit
man’ in a cave on Flores island in Indonesia. So who can be sure?
of the neighbouring islands Spanish names, some of which survive to this
day. His expedition was looking for gold but after six months of constant
conflict with the native people it set sail again for Peru. The islands became
known as Yslas de Salomon – the Solomon Islands. Mendaña was keen to
return but could not raise the funds for an expedition until 1595, when he
travelled with four ships and 450 would-be colonists. The expedition was
Sixteenth-century a disaster – Mendaña couldn’t find the Solomon Islands and lost a ship in
Portuguese explorers the process. Eventually he came upon and named Santa Cruz, where the
named New Guinea Ilhas colonists were racked by disease and hostile islanders. Mendaña died from
dos Papuas (Island of the malaria and the colony was abandoned after only two months – survivors
Fuzzy-Hairs) from the limped back to Peru via the Philippines.
Malay word papuwah. Mendaña’s chief pilot from the 1595 expedition, Pedro Fernández de
Later, Spanish navigator Quirós, spent the next 10 years raising money for yet another return to the
Ynigo Ortis de Retez Solomons and the search for Terra Australis. He missed Santa Cruz altogether
likened it to West Africa’s but reached the Duff Islands in early 1606 and venturing further south came
Guinea and named it New upon and named Espiritu Santo in northern Vanuatu on 3 May. Quirós
Guinea. The names were was separated from the two other ships in his expedition and his second in
combined at independ- command, Luis Váez de Torres, subsequently navigated the southern coast
ence in 1975. of New Guinea in the body of water that today bears his name – the Torres
Strait. Pedro Fernández de Quirós’ ignominious return to Peru told of yet
another failed attempt to establish a colony, this time on Santo, and this
signalled the end of Spanish interest in the western Pacific.
EUROPEAN EXPLORATION
Eager to protect incursions into the eastern end of their fabulously profitable
Dutch East Indies Empire (modern-day Indonesia), the Dutch East Indies
Company claimed sovereignty over unexplored New Guinea in 1660. And
so it remained for more than a century.
Captain Philip Carteret, a Briton, came upon Santa Cruz and then
passed on to Malaita in 1767, initially refusing to believe he’d rediscovered
ered Buka, Bougainville and Choiseul islands. Many British, French and
American explorers followed and from 1798 whalers sailed through the
islands. Sandalwood and bêche-de-mer (sea cucumber) traders brought
iron and steel tools, calico and fish hooks, but ultimately it was treachery
and resentment that they left. European diseases were devastating in New
Guinea and the Solomons, and the guns the traders brought resulted in an
explosion of warfare and head-hunting.
The British East India Company explored parts of western New Guinea
in 1793 and even made a tentative claim on the island but, in 1824, Britain
and the Netherlands agreed the latter’s colonial claim to the western half
of the New Guinea island should stand (and it did until 1963). A series
of British ‘claims’ followed which were repudiated each time by Queen
Victoria’s government.
By the late 1860s the sandalwood had been worked out and resentment
toward Europeans led to the murder of several missionaries in the Solomons.
The islands quickly became regarded as the most dangerous place in the
Pacific, inhabited by head-hunters and cannibals. There were violent and In 1880 the Marquis de
unpredictable attacks on foreigners, and several savage massacres. Despite Ray, having never been
their frenzied activity elsewhere in the Pacific, churches moved cautiously to New Guinea, sent 340
in the Solomons. would-be settlers to his
New France ‘colony’ near
COLONIALISM Cape St George in New
German interest in the New Guinea’s northeast coast finally spurred the Ireland. Instead of fertile
British to get serious about its own colonial ambitions. When in September land and friendly natives,
1884 the British announced that they intended to claim part of New Guinea, emigrants confronted
the Germans quickly raised the flag on the north coast. A compromise was impenetrable jungle,
reached – an arbitrary line was drawn east–west through the ‘uninhabited’ malaria, starvation and
Highlands between German and British New Guinea. cannibals. Only 217
New Guinea was now divided into three sections: a Dutch half protect- survived.
ing the eastern edge of the Dutch East Indies, a British quarter to keep the
Germans (and everybody else) away from Australia and a German quarter
that would ultimately become a highly profitable outpost of German plan-
tation agriculture. But the Germans would have to wait – for 15 years the
mosquitoes were the only things to profit from the German Neuguinea
Kompagnie’s shifting headquarters on the north coast first at Finschhafen,
then Bogadjim on Astrolabe Bay and then Madang. The Germans finally
decamped for the relative comforts of New Britain. Many German-initiated
plantations are still operating today.
The Germans were also active in the Shortland Islands, Choiseul, Santa
Isabel and Ontong Java in the present-day Solomons. With about 50 traders
and missionaries residing in the Solomon Islands, the British proclaimed a
protectorate over the southern part of the archipelago on 6 October 1893.

1526 mid-1500s 1567 1606 1660 1699

Jorge de Menezes, the
Portuguese explorer and
governor of Ternate in present-
day Indonesia, is the first
European to land on New Guinea
on its northwest shore mainland,
naming it Ilhas dos Papuas
Malay traders introduce sweet
potatoes into western New
Guinea (present-day Indonesian
Papua) sourced from the
Spanish and Portuguese
exploits in South America
Don Alvaro de Mendaña y
Neyra leaves Spanish Peru on
the first of two voyages and
becomes the first European to
discover the Solomon Islands,
finding and naming first Santa
Isabel and later Santa Cruz
Mendaña’s pilot Pedro
Fernández de Quiros leads
another expedition out of
Peru and comes upon the Duff
Islands in the Solomons and
Espiritu Santo in Vanuatu; Luis
Váez de Torres navigates the
Torres Strait
The Dutch East India Company
claims Dutch sovereignty over
still-unexplored New Guinea in
order to protect its interests in
modern-day Indonesia
Swashbuckling Englishman
William Dampier charts the
southeastern coasts of New
Britain and New Ireland and
discovers the Dampier Strait
between the New Britain and
the New Guinea mainland
 26 H I S T O R Y • • G o v e r n m e n t b y Pa t r o l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • W W I I B re a k s O u t 27

On 2 July 1937 aviator
Amelia Earhart and her
navigator Fred Noonan
left Lae on PNG’s north
coast and flew off into
oblivion.
This claim was extended in 1897 and 1898, and in 1899 Britain relinquished
its claims in Samoa in exchange for Germany ceding the Shortlands, Choiseul,
Santa Isabel and Ontong Java to Britain. The new territory was called the
British Solomon Islands Protectorate (BSIP) and was under the administra-
tion of Charles Morris Woodford, the first resident commissioner.
GOVERNMENT BY PATROL
In 1888, when Sir William MacGregor became British New Guinea’s ad-
ministrator, he established a native police force to spread the benefits of
British government. He instituted the policy of ‘government by patrol’,
which continued through the Australian period. In 1906 British New Guinea
became the Territory of Papua and its administration was taken over by
newly independent Australia. From 1907 until his death in 1940, Papua
was governed by Sir Hubert Murray with equal measures of paternalism
and progressive thinking.
Despite being in demise elsewhere, slavery was thriving in New Guinea
and especially the Solomons during the late-19th and early-20th centuries.
Known as ‘blackbirding’, men were carted off to provide plantation labour
in northern Australia and Fiji. More than 29,000 people were taken from
the Solomons alone.
1914–41
When WWI broke out in 1914, Australian troops quickly overran the German
headquarters at Rabaul and for the next seven years German New Guinea
was run by the Australian military. In 1920 the League of Nations officially
handed German New Guinea over to Australia as a mandated territory.
Australia was quick to eradicate the German commercial and plantation
presence, baulking only at the German missions. Australia enacted legislation
aimed at restricting the commercial exploitation of Eastern New Guinea to
British nationals and, more particularly, Australians. Copra, rubber, coffee
and cocoa were the main earners.
The discovery of large deposits of gold at Edie Creek and the Bulolo Valley
in the 1920s brought men and wealth to the north coast. After 400 years of
coastal contact, some of those white men finally made it into the interior
(see boxed text, opposite).
Under the Australian administration, kiaps (patrol officers) were usually
the first Europeans to venture into previously ‘uncontacted’ areas, and were
also responsible for making the government’s presence felt on a regular basis.
This situation continued until independence.
WWI bypassed the Solomons altogether, but the first prominent rejec-
tion of European values occurred in the 1927 Kwaio Rebellion (see p278) in
Malaita. In 1928 several of the Kwaio rebels were hanged in the then-capital
Tulagi. Basiana, the rebel leader, made a defiant prophesy shortly before his
death: ‘Tulagi will be torn apart and scattered to the winds.’ Fourteen years
later his prediction came true…in spades. For a look at relics from
WWII, check out the well-
WWII BREAKS OUT researched www
Having raced south through Asia and the Pacific, the Japanese occupied .pacificwrecks.com.
Rabaul in New Guinea in January 1942, and in early April they seized the
Solomons’ Shortland Islands and Tulagi, the colonial capital, three weeks
later. Soon they controlled most of the Solomon Islands. In early June,
Korean labourers were seen building an airfield on Guadalcanal (present-
day Henderson Airport). This would supply further Japanese advances in
Allied territory in the New Hebrides (Vanuatu), New Caledonia, Fiji and
even Australia and New Zealand. The Allies had to retake Guadalcanal
whatever the cost. The huge US war machine began landings on
Guadalcanal in August 1942 and the ensuing battles exacted a terrible cost
on both sides. During the Guadalcanal campaign alone six naval battles In 1960 John F Kennedy
were fought and 67 warships and transports were sunk on both sides – invited two Solomon Is-
the stretch of water between Guadalcanal and the Florida Islands became landers to his presidential
known as Iron Bottom Sound. Although there were more than 7000 US inauguration in Washing-
casualties, Japan’s losses were devastating. Of more than 24,000 soldiers ton DC. They were turned
lost, over a third died from disease, starvation or war wounds, and another away because they spoke
15,000 perished in sea actions. no English. In 1943 these
two islanders rescued
BIRTH OF THE KOKODA LEGEND 26-year-old skipper JFK
Japanese successes in New Guinea were short-lived. Australian troops and 10 survivors after
fought back an advance along the rugged Kokoda Track, which the their boat was sunk by
Japanese were using in an attempt to reach and take Port Moresby, the Japanese during WWII.
only remaining Australian stronghold on the island. In a flanking move,
the Japanese landed at Milne Bay but were repulsed after a bloody 10-day
battle with Australian troops.
THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT
When Mick Leahy ventured inland in 1930 he was looking for gold. Instead, on that and nine sub-
sequent expeditions during the next five years, Leahy, his brother Dan and Jim Taylor ‘discovered’
about a million people living in the secluded valleys of the New Guinea Highlands.
New Guinea’s white colonialists had thought the area uninhabited, but it was the most densely
populated part of the country. In an age of aeroplanes, radio and international telecommunications,
the discovery was stunning. It didn’t take long for the ‘land that time forgot’ to be dragged into the
20th century. The Leahy brothers introduced coffee, and before long missionaries and aircraft were also
arriving. The Highlanders, who had only known a barter economy, were quick to adapt to cash.
Mick Leahy’s meticulous recording of events – in his diary, several hours of 16mm film and
more than 5000 photographs – can be seen in the acclaimed 1983 documentary First Contact.

1767 1768 1790s 1876 1884 1897

Briton Philip Carteret sails to
Santa Cruz and Malaita in the
Solomons, and establishes that
New Britain and New Ireland
are separate, naming the latter
Nova Hibernia
Louis-Antoine de Bougainville
sails through the Solomon
Islands and names Bougainville
after himself; Choiseul after
French diplomat Étienne-
François duc de Choiseul; and
Buka after an Islander word
The British start exploring
the western part of the New
Guinea mainland, while
sandalwood and bêche-
de-mer (sea cucumber) traders
and whalers sail through the
islands of New Guinea and the
Solomons
Italian adventurer Luigi
d’Albertis charts the Fly River in
a tiny steamer, the Neva, taking
eight weeks to travel 930km
upriver and using fireworks
to scare off menacing-looking
locals
Germany hoists the flag on the
north coast of the New Guinea
mainland and establishes the
German Neuguinea Kompanie
at Finschhafen
Britain and Germany trade
territories in the Solomons and
Samoa, and the British
Solomon Islands Protectorate
(BSIP) is established
 28 HISTORY •• Postwar Experience lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Towards Independence 29

SUMMARY JUSTICE – THE SECRET LYNCHINGS OF WWII
It’s been a dark secret until very recently, but Australian WWII troops summarily hanged New
Guineans during WWII for cooperating with Japanese troops – perhaps as many as 213. Hundreds
of children were made to watch the execution of 17 men in a single day in 1943 near Higaturu in
Oro Province to ‘learn a lesson’ about cooperating with the Japanese. A gallows at this site alone
executed 103. Many of the fuzzy wuzzy angels – the New Guinean stretcher-bearers who carried
wounded Australian Diggers along the Kokoda Track – were actually press-ganged into service.
The Japanese came within 50km of Port Moresby, but an unsustainably
extended supply line and heroic resistance by Australian soldiers with local
help turned the course of the whole Pacific war. By September 1942 the previ-
ously undefeated Japanese were in a slow and bloody retreat. Over the next
A Bastard of a Place 16 months, Australian and US forces battled their way towards the Japanese
(2003) by Peter Brune strongholds along the north coast, eventually taking Salamaua, Buna, Gona
accurately details fighting and Lae at a cost of thousands of lives.
on the Kokoda Track and The Japanese, however, refused to surrender. It took until 1945 to regain
the bitter struggle to all the mainland from the Japanese but New Ireland, New Britain and
recapture the Japanese Bougainville were not relieved until the Japanese surrender. For years after
coastal positions, and the end of WWII there were stories about Japanese soldiers still hiding out
criticises some of the in the jungle. Many of these stories were apocryphal, but some were true.
senior Australian and Most Melanesians were initially militarily neutral in the conflict, although
American officers. they were used extensively on both sides as labourers, guides, carriers and
informers – sometimes press-ganged by the Japanese. But some were heavily
involved with the Allies, operating behind enemy line as ‘coastwatchers’. A
number of Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders were decorated
for their bravery. It is estimated that almost a third of Tolais from northern
New Britain were killed.
Through the accounts of POSTWAR EXPERIENCE
Japanese, Australian and In the Solomons, once Guadalcanal had been secured by the Allies, several
American war veterans thousand islanders, mainly Malaitans, went to serve as labourers and orderlies
and Papua New Guinean at the massive US military base at Honiara. The Honiara township was estab-
villagers, Angels of War lished to service the Henderson air base. This massive WWII relocation of
(1982) portrays the plight Malaitan people to Guadalcanal was actually the first seed of the devastating
of villagers who lived ethnic tensions that first erupted in 1999 and around the 2000 coup nearly
through some of the 60 years later (see p249).
most brutal fighting of The Melanesian experience of WWII caused a sharp resurgence in
the Pacific campaign. cargo-cultism (see p34). The war’s sudden arrival and its massive impact
could not have been more profound. US soldiers – many of them black –
treated locals as equals and shared food with them. This was something that
locals had never experienced from their colonial overlords. The postwar
profligacy of the massive US war machine – where boats were scuttled and
guns and jeeps were dumped in the sea before the soldiers disappeared in
giant transport planes – sent very strange messages to people who were just
stepping out of the Stone Age.
Every year, 23 July is commemorated as Remembrance Day for the Papua
New Guineans who died in WWII. It’s also the anniversary of the 1942 battle In 1965, after 20 years of
between the Papuan Infantry Battalion and the Japanese invaders that took hiding in the bush after
place near the Kumusi River in Oro Province. the end of WWII, the last
Japanese soldier
TOWARDS INDEPENDENCE surrendered on Vella
Masses of abandoned war equipment was put to use in developing both the Lavella island in the
Solomon Islands and New Guinea. Even today you can see how Marsden Solomons. He returned
matting is used for fencing and building material, and many WWII-era home to full military
Quonset huts are still standing. However, the war’s main impact proved to honours.
be social and political.
An influx of expatriates to PNG, mainly Australians, fuelled rapid eco-
nomic growth. The expatriate population grew from about 6000 to more
than 50,000 in 1971. Today it’s about 19,200.
Colonialism wasn’t popular in the 1950s and ’60s and Australia was urged
to prepare Papua and New Guinea for independence. A visiting UN mission
in 1962 stressed that if the people weren’t pushing for independence, then
it was Australia’s responsibility to do so. Australia’s policy of reinforcing
literacy and education was wedded to a concerted effort to create an educated
social group that could run government.
In 1964, a House of Assembly with 64 members was formed. Internal
self-government came into effect in 1973, followed by full independence
on 16 September 1975. Barely recovered from
In the Solomons the Marching Rule nationalist movement was crushed by the devastation of WWII,
the British in the early 1950s, but self-rule was slowly introduced, culminat- in 1951 the district
ing in independence on 7 July 1978. headquarters of Central
Province, Higaturu,
TROUBLED YOUNG NATIONS was flattened when Mt
Law and order was not a serious issue until the 1990s, when mineral- Lamington erupted,
rich PNG began to develop large-scale mining operations. These fast killing more than 3000
became the greatest contributors to the economy, but also social, en- people. The new capital,
vironmental and political burdens that, in the 1980s and ’90s, took Popondetta, was built
a heavy toll. First the giant Ok Tedi gold-and-copper mine poisoned further from the volcano.
much of the Ok Tedi and Fly Rivers, and then conflict over profits
from the Panguna copper mine in Bougainville descended into war
(see p241). Rebel leader Francis Ona and the Bougainville Revolution
Army (BRA) fought for independence from PNG and a homeland state
called Mekamui.

1906 1914 1930 1942 1963–69 1975

British New Guinea becomes
the Territory of Papua and its
administration is taken over by
newly independent Australia
Australia ceases German New
Guinea at the outbreak of WWI
and is officially given German
New Guinea in 1920 as a man-
dated territory by the League
of Nations
The Leahy brothers walk into
and ‘discover’ the Highlands –
and about one million people
living completely unaware of
the outside world
The invading Japanese
establish a base in Rabaul in
January, by April they’ve taken
most of New Guinea and the
Solomons and by September
they’ve begun their retreat
along the Kokoda Track
The Dutch pull out of western
New Guinea transfering
control to Indonesia subject to
a UN-administered plebiscite –
the sham ‘Act of Free Choice’
legitimises brutality towards
independence-seeking
Papuans
Papua New Guinea gains full
independence from Australia
on 16 September, with Michael
Somare as the country’s first
prime minister
 30 HISTORY •• The New Millennium lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The Moti Affair 31

The Bougainville conflict drained resources and divided PNG along

tribal lines for years, and strained relations with the Solomon Islands. In
The Sandline Affair by 1996 the government of Sir Julius Chan hired mercenaries to try to crush
veteran Pacific the separatists. What became known as the Sandline Affair was a disaster,
correspondent Sean but ironically the fall-out brought world attention to the conflict and forced
Dorney is an account of the protagonists to find peaceful solutions with the help of talks brokered
the Bougainville war and by New Zealand and Australia.
the disastrous mercenary The Solomons, meanwhile, had its own war that erupted in early 1999
affair that precipitated and this led to a coup the following year. Gwale people from Guadalcanal
its end. Details of the and ethnic Malaitans squared off and took the country perilously close to
corruption involved are becoming a failed state. Twenty-thousand Malaitans were made homeless,
impressive, though the Gwalese people fled Honiara and the capital is now a Malaitan enclave. The
early years of the war are Australian-led Regional Assistance Mission to the Solomon Islands (RAMSI)
not so well explained. intervened and brought a cessation of hostilities (see p249) but the enmity
between the two ethnic groups persists.
The 1980s and ’90s saw PNG face a series of challenges: a volcanic eruption
in 1994 buried much of Rabaul (see p222); ongoing border problems involving
the Organisasi Papua Merdeka (Free West Papua Movement) strained rela-
tions with Indonesia and saw thousands moved to refugee camps in PNG; and
a growing level of corruption and government misspending sucked money
away from where it was needed most: education and health. All this served
The 10-year secessionist as a backdrop to the revolving door of prime ministers and no-confidence
war in Bougainville motions that characterised politics in PNG and the Solomon Islands.
claimed an estimated
20,000 lives. Some people THE NEW MILLENNIUM
have likened the late In March 2002 the PNG government passed legislation that brought into
secessionist rebel leader effect autonomy arrangements of the Bougainville Peace Agreement (BPA)
Francis Ona to Yasser which guarantees a referendum for Bougainvillean independence by 2020.
Arafat. The Autonomous Bougainville Government was sworn into office on 15
June 2005 with Joseph Kabui as its president.
Francis Ona, leader of the BRA and staunch opponent of the BPA, died
of malaria barely a month later on 24 July 2006. Ona’s supporters continue
to defend the so-called No-Go Zone around the abandoned Panguna mine.
The proliferation of weapons in the No-Go Zone remains serious. For more
on the Bougainville conflict and the Sandline Affair see p241.
The area around Tuno in the No-Go Zone is also where con man Noah
Musingku maintains his own fiefdom. Musingku operated an illegal pyra-
mid fast-money scheme called U-Vastrict that left investors all over PNG
empty-handed. He fled to Bougainville in 2005 where he feted Francis Ona,
proclaiming him King of Papala and then assumed this bogus title himself
when Ona died. Musingku hired eight Fijian mercenaries as bodyguards and
to train his private army, offering them US$1 million each. In November
2006 there was armed confrontation between the Fijian ex-soldiers and their
THE MOTI AFFAIR
Julian Moti, a Fijian-born Australian citizen, is currently serving as the Attorney General of the
Solomon Islands. He was appointed by Prime Minister Manasseh Sogavare in 2006 but was ar-
rested in Port Moresby in late September of that year while transiting from Singapore to Honiara
to take up his position. Australian authorities asked PNG police to arrest Moti and extradite him
to Australia to face charges of child sex abuse for an alleged incident with a 13-year-old girl in
Vanuatu in 1997 (a 1999 trial in Port Vila had the charges thrown out). Moti took refuge at the
Solomon Islands High Commission in Port Moresby and on 10 October turned up in Honiara
aboard a PNG Defence Force plane. He was arrested by Solomons police at the behest of Australian
authorities, but then immediately released.
Three senior PNG government officials were suspended over the ‘escape’ of Julian Moti but
they were clearly scapegoats, and confusion reigned over who ordered Moti’s release and his
clandestine flight to Honiara. A PNG Defence Force Board of Enquiry was obstructed at every turn.
It was prevented from collecting evidence in the Solomons, so RAMSI officers raided Manasseh
Sogavare’s office, and Sir Michael Somare refused to give evidence to the board. He then sacked
Defence Minister Martin Aini who had convened the Board of Enquiry and suppressed the release
of its findings saying it contained ‘untruths’ about him.
A copy of the report was leaked to the ABC in Australia and it says that Somare himself ordered
Moti’s illegal escape from PNG and recommends that the prime minister be investigated and
charged with perjury and conspiracy. The report says ‘there was a very high level of collabora-
tion and collusion’ between Somare and Sogavare over Moti’s escape, that the Moti operation
breached the PNG constitution and that various government officials lied under oath. Australia’s
former foreign minister Alexander Downer was one of many people who called for the report to
be made public, but Somare said Downer could ‘go and get to hell’.
For his part Sogavare steadfastly obstructed every effort to have Julian Moti extradited to
Australia, and, amid great controversy, Moti was finally sworn in as the Attorney General of the
Solomon Islands in July 2007. Both Sogavare and Moti claimed that the extradition attempt
was purely political, pointing out that there has been no fresh evidence presented since the
original 1999 trial.
On 13 December 2007, Sogavare lost a vote of no-confidence and one week later Derek Sikua
was elected prime minister of the Solomon Islands. Less than a week after that, on Christmas
Day, Julian Moti was extradited to Australia to face the music. At the time of writing, Julian Moti
is in a Brisbane detention centre awaiting trial.
Back in April 2005, long before anyone had heard of Julian Moti, Michael Somare was at
Brisbane Airport and was asked to remove his shoes at a routine security screening. He took
offence and sought an official apology, but Alexander Downer refused to apologise. Subsequent
protests outside the Australian High Commission in Port Moresby drew hundreds of people de-
manding compensation and an apology. Relations between Australia and PNG have never been
the same since. (The shoes were sold for K11,000 after Somare was persuaded to auction them
to raise money for the PNG police band.) In helping Julian Moti escape extradition to Australia
Sir Michael gleefully indulged in that most Melanesian kastom – payback!

1978 1989 1994 1997 1998 1999

Britain grants the Solomon
Islands independence on 7 July
with Chief Minister Sir Peter Ke-
nilorea automatically assuming
the role of Prime Minister
The first PNG Defence Force
(PNGDF) soldiers are killed as
civil war breaks out in Bougain-
ville; the following year PNGDF
troops are withdrawn from
Bougainville and the island is
blockaded
Two of Rabaul’s volcanoes –
Vulcan and Tavurvur – erupt,
burying the prettiest town in
the Pacific in volcanic ash; the
town is all but abandoned and
nearby Kokopo becomes the
new capital of East New Britain
The Sandline Affair makes
headlines world-wide, as PM
Julius Chan hires South
African mercenaries to put
down Bougainville rebels; Chan
resigns but the affair hastens
negotiation of a peace
agreement
On 17 July, 30 minutes after a
moderate earthquake, a 10m
tsunami hits the coastal region
west of Aitape in Sandaun
Province, killing more than
2200 people and causing
injuries to another 1000
Ethnic tension between
Malaitans and Gwale people
from Guadalcanal begins to
erupt, leading to the ousting
of then-PM Bartholomew
Ulufa’alu the following year
and the RAMSI intervention in
July 2003.
© Lonely Planet Publications
32 H I S T O R Y • • T h e N e w M i l l e n n i u m lonelyplanet.com

trainees on one side, and pro-government Bougainville Freedom Fighters

on the other, but to date, all but one have either returned to Fiji or turned
themselves over to the PNG police – none received the money promised
to them. These bizarre circumstances aside, the UN regards the negotiated
peace agreement on Bougainville as one of the most successful anywhere in
the world in modern times.
‘Grand Chief’ Sir Michael Somare, PNG’s ‘father of independence’, re-
turned in 2002 for a third stint as prime minister and introduced electoral
reforms to create a more stable political climate, and in turn to help the
economy. Somare was the first prime minister in the country’s history to
avoid the familiar no-confidence motion and then be re-elected in July 2007
as an incumbent prime minister. However Somare returned to the prime
ministership under strained relations with Australia, and it all began over
a pair of shoes – see boxed text, p31. For more on the current political state
of PNG and the Solomon Islands, see p12.

2005 2006 2007

The Autonomous Bougainville
Government is sworn into
office on 15 June 2005, with
Joseph Kabui as its president
Solomon Islanders riot in
Honiara, after the first elections
since the ethnic tension install
Snyder Rini as prime minister;
Chinatown is burnt to the
ground and Rini is soon thrown
out in a vote of no-confidence
An undersea earthquake
triggers a tsunami that strikes
the Solomons’ Western and
Choiseul Provinces in April;
54 people are killed and many
thousands are made homeless
 © Lonely Planet Publications
33

The Culture
REGIONAL IDENTITY
The people of Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands are almost all
Melanesians but the background of the population varies greatly, and even
those that aren’t Melanesians share many Melanesian habits. Increasingly,
there’s European and Chinese blood in the mix, particularly in the towns.
Some people have typical urban lifestyles with mobile phones and comfort-
able homes. Others inhabit remote areas and may never have seen a town or a
white person. In traditional PNG societies, despite their sophisticated agricul-
tural and maritime skills, tools and artefacts were made of wood, bone, pot-
tery or stone. There was no metalworking, domestic animal power or wheels.
Extensive trading networks existed and rare shells were used as currency.
People traded widely in pottery, stone tools, obsidian (dark, glassy volcanic
rock), dyes, salt, sago and smoked fish. Some people still live this way and,
while the hard currency and cash crops have replaced kina shells, traditional
valuables still hold value and certain ceremonial objects are revered.
In just a few generations since European contact, the people of Papua
New Guinea and the Solomon Islands have found themselves in independ-
ent island states in the age of information and the internet. Along the way
they’ve been browbeaten by Bible-thumpers and exploited by colonial power.
Most claim to be Catholic but European religion is often blended with trad-
itional beliefs. The primary obligation that Melanesian people have is to their
wantoks (see boxed text, p37), which is taken very seriously – gift-giving is
highly formalised. You might think nothing of giving somebody a small gift
but in Melanesian culture that person is then indebted to you.
There’s cynicism about politics, especially among those in remote areas After the great American
(where roads and services are in decline) who regard politicians as corrupt. military machine left at
But PNG has a young demographic (the median age is 19.7 years) and energy the end of WWII, cargo
and Melanesian optimism emerge in their music, friendliness and ready cults began to sprout.
laughter. One of the things that confounds outsiders is the warmth of people People built runways
who were forever at war; ritually killing and eating each other. This contradic- for imaginary planes to
tion no doubt contributes to anthropologists’ attraction for this region. land on and deliver kago
Young, urbanised Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders wear (material goods). See
Snoop Dogg T-shirts but prefer their own home-grown sounds to the boxed text, p34, for more
Western pop charts. Many travel overseas and stay with relatives in Cairns information.
and Brisbane. They almost all chew buai (betel nut), go to church, worship
dead ancestors and fear masalais (malevolent spirits).

LIFESTYLE
Melanesians are laid-back, at least on the coast where it’s too hot to get
overly fussed. Highlanders are a bit more feisty and passionate. Everyone
seems to walk slowly, but they’ve got this climate worked out – cling to the
shade, sleep through the midday heat and save physical exertion for village
rugby late in the day.
Most rural people are subsistence farmers or growers and traders of cash
crops, such as bananas, betel nut and coffee. In the towns and cities, unskilled
work pays about K120 to K200 per fortnight; skilled middle income earners
earn K400 to K500 per fortnight.
By Western standards most people live very simply. In the bush people
have very few possessions and often no cash income. In the cities a number
of educated people lead sophisticated middle-class lives, but other people
live in squalor in city-fringe settlements. PNG lifestyles range from the
 34 TR HU EN NC IUNLTG HU RE AE D • •• • L iRfeusntnyilne g s u b h e a d lonelyplanet.com
rarefied cold-weather climes of the Highlands to life on the coast in stilt
houses above the shifting tide.
Both PNG and the Solomons are changing quickly and locals want devel-
opment. Particularly in PNG, people have married outside their traditional
clans and homelands, and tok ples (local language, pronounced ‘talk place’)
The Phantom (the lycra- is increasingly being replaced in the villages with Tok Pisin (the Pidgin
clad ghost who walks) is language). Isolated communities are suddenly being confronted with huge
incredibly popular in PNG mining and logging operations. These bring new roads and facilities – remote
and has been used to areas are opened to Western influences, good and bad.
advertise everything from A lot of people drift into the cities from villages looking for work and
lottery tickets to peanuts modern lifestyles – there are no unemployment benefits in PNG and the
with great lines of Solomons, and these people often commit petty crimes to eat. Those who
dialogue like ‘Sapos are engineering graduates can’t always get work and they, too, fall into
yu kaikai planti pinat, gangs of raskols just to survive. Poker machines and home-brew alcohol are
bai yu kamap strong problems, and AIDS is already a disaster. There’s been a strong resurgence
olsem phantom.’ Lee in black magic and sorcery in recent years associated with the HIV/AIDS
Falk’s comic strip used epidemic and the poor understanding that many remote people have of the
to be translated into disease. Far from quaint and curious, black magic is ghastly, violent and an
Tok Pisin in the Wantok abomination that’s inflicted mostly on old women. See the Women in Papua
newspaper. New Guinea & the Solomons Islands section, p40.
Traditional Lifestyle
In the village, bigmen or chiefs traditionally presided over the affairs of the
clan. Most villages were small, comprising several generations of just one
extended family. They were typically isolated and this is why so many distinct
languages evolved (there are 70 in the Solomon Islands). One of PNG’s fea-
tures is its extraordinary number of mutually unintelligible languages – 820
living languages and 10 extinct ones at last count – but many are dying out.
It is the most linguistically complex country in the world with 12% of the
world’s living languages and an average of about 7600 speakers of each. Enga
CARGO CULTS
To many New Guineans, it seems the strange ways and mysterious powers of the Europeans
could only have derived from supernatural sources. Cult leaders theorised that Europeans had
intercepted cargo that was really intended for the New Guineans, sent to them by their ancestors
in the spirit world. One cultist even suggested that the white people had torn the first page out
of their bibles – the page that revealed that God was actually a Papuan.
If the right rituals were followed, the cult leaders said, the goods would be redirected to their
rightful owners. Accordingly, docks were prepared or crude ‘airstrips’ laid out for when the cargo
arrived. Other leaders felt that if they mimicked European ways, they would soon have European
goods – ‘offices’ were established in which people passed bits of paper back and forth. But when
locals started to kill their own pigs and destroy their gardens, the colonial government took a
firm stand. Some leaders were imprisoned while others were taken down to Australia to see with
their own eyes that the goods did not arrive from the spirit world.
Seeing black American troops during WWII with access to desirable goods had a particularly
strong impact. In Manus Province in 1946, a movement started by Paliau Moloat called the
New Way, or Paliau Church, was initially put down as just another cargo cult. But Paliau’s quasi-
religious following was one of PNG’s first independence movements and a force for modernisa-
tion. He opposed bride prices, for example, and sought to dissuade the local populace’s belief
in the arrival of actual cargo from the sea.
Paliau was imprisoned in the early days, but in 1964 and 1968 he was elected to the PNG
House of Assembly. Paliau Moloat was seen by his followers as the last prophet of the world.
He died on 1 November 1991.
lonelyplanet.com R U N N I N G HTEHAEDC U• LT
• UR Ru En n •i n• g LSiufeb shteyal de 35
KAIKAI BUAI?
Betel nut, the Areca catechu seed, takes up at least half of the selling space in every market and
people use it as a pick-me-up during the day – a bit like a mid-morning cup of tea. Virtually
everybody in PNG and the Solomons (except expats) chews buai and most educated professional
people (unless they are fervently Christian) will have a quiet chew, too.
Long-time chewers get badly stained teeth – first red and then black. The mild stimulant is
brought about by the reaction of the nut, the mustard stick (daka) and the crushed-coral lime
(cumbung)…and it tastes awful! Nuts can vary in potency and a strong one might cause you to
sweat and want to lie down for a few minutes. The lime is highly caustic and can cause ulcer-
ated cheeks and mouth cancers.
Yes plis, tenkyu tru!
Take the husked nut between your back teeth and crack it near the stem end. Prise it open with
your fingers, pluck out the kernel and chew it in the back of your mouth to one side. You’ll sud-
denly be producing large amounts of colourless saliva and don’t swallow it as you can get a bit
nauseated – so find somewhere where you can spit.
Next moisten one end of the daka in your mouth and dip it into the lime so a few millimetres
are ‘frosted’ with cumbung. Bite off the frosted daka in the back of your mouth, and chew and
spit. Repeat, chew and spit.
This is when your projectiles will turn a vivid red and (with luck) you’ll feel the ‘rush’ come
on. It can sometimes be just a little head-spin or it can be stronger – the effect will be largely
determined by your technique and you might be disappointed with your first try. Watch how
others do it.
Seeing a foreigner kaikai buai will bring broad smiles across the faces of local people and
you’ll immediately make friends. Be warned, however, that until you are practised you’ll almost
certainly make a mess as the voluminous red spit escapes your mouth, runs down your chin
and ruins your favourite T-shirt.
is the most widely spoken with 165,000 speakers, while Turumsa is spoken by
fewer than 10 elders of Makapa village in the middle Fly River district.
Ownership in the Western sense didn’t exist in traditional societies; in-
stead ownership was a concept tied up in family and clan rights, controlled
by the male elder.
In traditional Melanesian culture there are three main areas of everyday
importance – prestige, pigs and gardening. A village chief shows wealth by
owning and displaying certain traditional valuables, or by hosting lavish
feasts where dozens of pigs are slaughtered. Bigmen don’t inherit their titles,
although being the son of a chief has advantages. Bigmen must earn their Trobriand Islanders
titles by accolades in war, wisdom in councils, magic-practice skills and the worship yams and build
secret arts that are tambu (taboo) for women. Particularly in the Highlands, elaborate yam houses
people have to be made aware how wealthy bigmen are, so ceremonial life many storeys high.
in this region focuses on ostentatious displays and in giving things away. Everywhere there is great
There are various ways in which this is formalised; it’s part of a wide circle art and ritual involved in
of exchange and interclan relationships. Wealth is never really given away in gardening.
the Western sense. Your gifts cement a relationship with the receiver, who
then has obligations to you. Obligation and payback are deadly serious in
Highlands culture; Melanesia has no privileged classes, but individuals still
inherit land through their parents (often their mother). Village life in PNG
and the Solomons is usually egalitarian, and ownership continues to be a
concept tied up in family and clan rights.
Pigs are extremely valuable; they’re regarded as family members and
lactating women sometimes suckle piglets. People can be seen out taking
their pig for a walk on a leash, patiently waiting as the pig grazes and digs
 36 TR HU EN NC IUNLTG HU RE AE D • •• • E cRounnonmi nyg s u b h e a d
Shark-calling in Malaita
in the Solomons involves
boys handfeeding sharks
and riding on their backs.
See boxed text, p237.
lonelyplanet.com
by the roadside. Large pigs can be worth K1000. Dogs, on the other hand,
are mangy, fly-blown creatures left to scavenge for food.
People in both countries still maintain animist beliefs. Despite the inroads
of Christianity, ancestor worship is still important. The netherworld is also
inhabited by spirits, both protective and malevolent, and there are creation
myths that involve animal totems. This is stronger in certain areas: islanders
from Malaita in the Solomons worship sharks while some Sepik River people
revere crocodiles. Christianity has a tight grip on most people, but it hasn’t
supplanted traditional beliefs. They coexist – Jesus is alive in people’s hearts
and minds without conflicting with their traditional ideas.
Bride price is the formalised gift-giving of money and certain traditional
valuables to the father of a would-be bride. It often comprises shell money,
but can also include cash, pigs and SP Lager. Part of becoming a man and
commanding respect in traditional societies is to work hard and raise a bride
price so you can marry. Bride price is common, but these days many men
compile their bride price after they’re married.
Men’s cults are widespread throughout Melanesia and involve the ritu-
alised practice of ‘the arts’ and ancestor worship in men’s houses and haus
tambarans (spirit houses). This can involve the building and display of certain
ceremonial objects, song and dance, and the initiation of boys into manhood.
It manifests in different ways in different societies, but it is very secretive
and deadly serious – in the Sepik boys are cut with crocodile markings as
part of their initiation, while Tolais boys are visited by dukduks (spiritual
costumes) to perform their initiation rites. It’s ironic and hard to fathom
for outsiders, but while men’s business and haus tambarans are tambu for
women, men’s cults and their initiation rites are all about rebirthing – the
haus tambaran is like a womb and in some places its entrance is actually
shaped like a vagina.
ECONOMY
About 85% of Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders live subsistence
agricultural lifestyles in rural villages. Surplus food production is traded in
informal cash economies and this makes up the bulk of financial activity in
both countries.
Industries that dominate the formal economic sector are the capital-
intensive mining and oil industries that employ large numbers of foreign
nationals and relatively few locals. They tend to be controlled by overseas
interests and thus considerable portions of the profits are taken offshore. In
2005 PNG’s total export earnings reached K10 billion (US$3.5 billion) for the
first time. Gold was the biggest foreign-exchange earner with the export of
70.5 tonnes worth K2.8 billion to the national economy. Copper, principally
extracted from the giant Ok Tedi mine, and crude oil are respectively the
second- and third-highest earning export commodities.
The Solomon Islands mining industry was dealt a mortal blow during
the period of ethnic tension – the rich Gold Ridge mine near Honiara had
only a year of production before it was forced to close in June 2000. Today
it is expected to again produce large amounts of gold and copper. The
Solomons’ fishing industry is looking to expand again after the economic
doldrums of the early 2000s. The Soltai tuna cannery at Noro is one of the
biggest in the South Pacific and exports tuna products to supermarkets
in Europe and America. It is the country’s second-highest export earner
(behind timber).
The agricultural sector is more labour-intensive and employs far more
PNG and Solomons nationals than the mining sector. Forestry, copra and
palm oil again tend to be controlled by foreign interests. Increases in world
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THE WANTOK SYSTEM
Fundamental to Melanesian culture is the idea of wantoks (meaning ‘one talk’ in Tok Pisin) and your
wantoks are those who speak your tokples or language – your clan or kinfolk. Every Melanesian is
born with duties to their wantoks but they also have privileges. Within the clan and village, each
person can expect to be housed and fed, and to share in the community’s assets. Regardless of
whether clanspeople are in Wewak or Warsaw, all wantoks can expect to be accommodated and
fed, until they can make a more permanent home.
This is a social security system, and the plague of both democratic politics and enterprise.
Some say that the wantok system is the best and worst thing about PNG and the Solomon
Islands. For villagers, it is an egalitarian way for the community to share its spoils. In rapidly
changing circumstances, the village and the clan provide basic economic support as well as a
sense of belonging.
When these ideas are transposed to politics and social affairs, it becomes nepotism and, at
worst, corruption. In the public service, the police, the army and especially in politics, this is a
scourge. Candidates don’t get to run without the support of their fellow bigmen, who expect
that when ‘their’ candidate is elected, their generosity will be repaid. The wantok system is also
the greatest disincentive to enterprise.
The wantok system is a microcosm of the battle being waged between the modern and the
traditional in PNG and the Solomons. It is so deeply entrenched that some educated youngsters
choose to move away from their families to avoid the calls for handouts. And without it life would
be much harder for many others. Just saying ‘no’ to a wantok is rarely an option.
coffee prices have provided direct benefits to PNG growers who are mostly
smallholders in the Highlands. In 2006 coffee exports were worth K471
million. PNG rubber exports are also significant.
The Solomon Islands timber industry is its single biggest export earner, but
the country’s forests are seriously over-harvested. The industry is dominated
by Asian multinationals and many of their practices have been environmen-
tally disastrous and sometimes illegal. Some estimates suggest that Solomons’
timber will be logged out in as little as five years if felling continues at the
current unsustainable rate.
Both PNG and the Solomons have poor economic infrastructure, which Village on the Edge
makes the cost of doing business very high. Except for the PNG’s Highlands (2002), by Michael French
Highway that connects Madang and Lae to the major population centres Smith, is a thoughtful
in the Highlands, neither country has any significant road network. PNG’s book about a village on a
mountainous mainland and the many islands in PNG and the Solomons volcanic island, and the
means that communities are isolated from each other and the internal trans- changing lifestyles as it
portation systems comprise mostly light aircraft and informal trade-boat confronts modernity.
routes. (It is interesting to note that domestic aviation was born in PNG.)
Both countries lie off the major shipping routes and thus sea-freight costs
are high and services to and from the rest of the world are infrequent. There
is almost no manufacturing base in PNG or the Solomons, so just about
everything is imported (mostly from Australia and Asia) and everything
is expensive.
Productivity growth is also restricted by poor education at one end of the
human-resources spectrum and a significant ‘brain drain’ at the other. In
PNG fewer than 60% of children complete 6th grade and only about 10%
enrol in secondary school, while many of the best and brightest of the profes-
sional class leave for better-paid employment overseas.
Between 1960 and PNG independence in 1975 the economy on average
was growing at more than 5.5%, thanks in large part to a substantial and
productive Australian expatriate community and the Panguna copper mine in
Bougainville, which began operating in 1968. The Panguna mine accounted
 38 TR HU EN NC IUNLTG HU RE AE D • •• • P oRpuunlnaitni og ns u b h e a d
Penis gourds are still de
rigueur for many men in
PNG’s remote parts.
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for 40% of the country’s income and its closure in 1989 led to a sharp decline
in GDP. Between 1975 and 2004 the PNG economy grew at an average 2.3%,
although the last couple of years have seen stronger growth due to strong
commodities prices and high minerals yields.
Foreign aid remains an important component of both economies. In
2007 PNG received K880 million (US$310 million), although the amount
has been falling in recent years. Through AusAID, Australia contributed
about 78% of that amount, with the balance made up of contributions
from Japan, the EU, New Zealand, China and the USA. Foreign aid (mostly
Australian) to the Solomons was worth about S$930 million (US$122 mil-
lion) in 2007 and 70% of that was directed at the programme of RAMSI
civilian activities.
POPULATION
Papua New Guinea
PNG people are closely related to people from other parts of the Pacific.
There are Papuans, the first arrivals; Melanesians, who represent 95% of
people and are related to people from the Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji
and New Caledonia; Polynesians, related to New Zealand Maoris, Tongans,
Samoans and Hawaiian islanders; and Micronesians, related to people in the
Marshall Islands, Kiribati and Nauru.
Only 15% of people live in urban areas, while most of the rest are subsist-
ence farmers. Nearly two million people live in the Highlands, the most
densely populated part of the country. Most cities have many people who
weren’t born there. Many Highlanders migrate to Port Moresby and else-
where, but few coastal people move into the Highlands. Melanesian people
still identify more strongly with their clan links and their origins than with
the people they come to live with, so enclaves exist in the settlement areas
of the big cities, and there is a traditional distrust between Highlanders
and coastal people. During the Bougainville war, dark-skinned bukas
(Bougainvilleans) used to be harassed and vilified around PNG, but this
doesn’t happen now.
Only Port Moresby, Lae and Mt Hagen have a real big-city crush. The other
provincial capitals are not as crowded (except on provincial show day). Land
pressures have caused people to leave the villages and seek work, and great
urban squatter settlements have appeared around many major cities. In 2002
Madang authorities burnt down a huge Sepiks’ settlement on the outskirts of
town after giving the residents some resettlement compensation.
Solomon Islands
The Solomons people are 94% Melanesian and otherwise made up
of Polynesians, some relocated Micronesian communities and a few
expatriates.
Malaita has more than twice the population of rural Guadalcanal and
only Honiara has many people. Here, too, land pressures have forced locals
to move, most notably Malaitan islanders to Guadalcanal, and this in part
brought on the ethnic tensions that began boiling over in 1999. Since then
20,000 people have been coerced into returning to Malaita, exacerbating its
overpopulation problems.
Expatriates
In both PNG and the Solomons there are relatively large numbers of expats,
but this is in decline. There are about 20,000 non-citizens in PNG, down
from a 1971 peak of 50,000, and about a quarter of these are West Papuan
refugees living in border camps.
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Most expats are Australians, Brits and Germans, but there’s a large Chinese
community that has been in PNG for a long time and it has intermixed with
the local population more than any other group. Around Vanimo there are
significant numbers of Indonesians and Malaysians.
Expats fall into three groups – those who are in PNG and the Solomons
for a long time or even a lifetime, expat workers who come in on lucrative
two-year contracts with international companies, and younger people who
come in for a period as volunteers, aid workers and NGOs.
There are no more mastas (white colonials) in oversized shorts and knee-
length white socks building empires with cheap local labour. Today’s expatri-
ate community is a varied group; some are involved in the fledgling tourism
sector as hotel proprietors or scuba-diving instructors. There are religious
zealots, people fleeing broken marriages or dodgy business activities, obsessed
scientific nerds studying insect larvae, and adventurers.
When independence came to PNG in 1975, many Australian and Chinese
residents were eligible for PNG citizenship, on the condition that they re- ‘Papua New
nounced their original citizenship. Many did and some now hold positions
Guineans
of considerable political and economic importance.
are proud
SPORT of their
Organised sport is in its infancy in PNG and the Solomon Islands. Papua
nationals
New Guineans are proud of their nationals doing well in sport overseas.
Swimmer Ryan Pini became an instant national hero in PNG when he won doing well
the gold medal for the 100m butterfly at the 2006 Commonwealth Games in in sport
Melbourne. Dika Loa Toua won a silver for the women’s 53kg weightlifting
overseas’
at the same event.
Mal Michael is a successful Australian Rules footballer who was a three-
time premiership-winning full-back with the Brisbane Lions before (contro-
versially) changing to the Essendon Football Club for the 2007 season.
Rugby league is PNG’s national sport and Marcus Bai is a rugby league
superstar and perhaps PNG’s most successful sporting export. He played
in Australia for the Gold Coast Chargers and Melbourne Storm, and in
England for Leeds Rhinos and Bradford Bulls. PNG has produced sev-
eral first-grade rugby-league professionals who are plying their trades
in overseas leagues including Tommy O’Reilly, Keith Peters, Omphalus
Kua, Stanley Gene and John Wilshere. Another PNG player, Adrian Lam,
played 14 State of Origin matches for Queensland and captained PNG at
the 2000 World Cup.
Stanley ‘The Headhunter’ Nandex from Erave district in Southern
Highlands Province was the world super-middleweight kickboxing cham-
pion before retiring in 2005.
Melanesian people love sport, and ball games of all kinds fit into their
communal outdoorsy culture. There are raggedy volleyball nets in many
villages and impromptu rugby games are played in village singsing grounds.
Local netball and rugby competitions are played on weekends in parks and
fields everywhere. Soccer and softball are now popular.
Televised sport is of paramount importance and everybody aligns them-
selves fiercely (and seemingly arbitrarily) to the Blues or Maroons for the
Australian Rugby League’s state-of-origin match between Queensland and
New South Wales. The fervour for this big event sees a rash of T-shirt sales
and vast amounts of money wagered on the outcome.
If you get to the Trobriand Islands (p118), make sure you take in a game of
Trobriands cricket. Cricket was introduced in 1903 by Methodist missionaries
to reduce ritual warfare, and has since been adapted to include many local
rules as well as magic, war paint, feasting and ritual.
 40 TR HU EN NC IUNLTG HU RE AE D • •• • MReudni an i n g s u b h e a d
In Beyond the Coral Sea
(2003) Michael Moran
retraces the steps of some
famous early visitors to
PNG and offers some
thoughts on the modern
country. A fine book.
lonelyplanet.com
MEDIA
The media is vigorous and fair-minded in PNG and the Solomon Islands.
Many people read newspapers and are well informed and highly opinionated
about current affairs, writing to newspapers to express free opinions.
There are two main daily newspapers – the Post Courier majority-owned
by Murdoch, and the National owned by Malaysian logging giant Rimbunan
Hijau. A third local daily, Wantok, is published in Tok Pisin by a Christian
organisation. The content is not overtly churchy, but still conservative in
matters of religion and anything strongly sexual. PNG’s only locally owned
paper is a weekly launched in 2006. There’s thorough national coverage in
the daily newspapers, as well as a reasonable amount of overseas news.
There are several FM radio stations in each town that play local music
and two government-funded national radio broadcasters – Karai on the AM
band, and Kalang on the FM band. Local content is strong. In addition there
are several commercial national broadcasters, and the biggies are NauFM
(‘now’) broadcasting in English, and YumiFM (‘you-me’) broadcasting 24
hours in Tok Pisin.
The one Solomons daily is published and owned by local John Lamani.
There are two new bi-weekly papers that are locally owned.
For more information on TV media, see p42.
RELIGION
Both the PNG and Solomon Islands constitutions declare that they are
Christian countries. The churches have played an important role in de-
veloping the countries’ health and education services, as well as infra-
structure. But they have also sought to repress traditional knowledge and
cultural practices.
In PNG, about 28% of people are Catholic, 23% Evangelical Lutheran,
13% belong to the Uniting Church, and there are significant numbers of
followers of the Evangelical Alliance, Seventh-Day Adventist, Pentecostal
and Anglican churches. In the Solomons 35% are members of the Anglican-
affiliated Church of Melanesia and 20% are Catholic. Regardless of where
people align their Christian beliefs, they retain many of their beliefs in tra-
ditional religion and customary practices.
In most areas of PNG and the Solomons traditional life continues, but
Christian churches are extremely influential. American hellfire fundamental-
ists come to save the lost souls. They have seminars and give public speeches
in the marketplaces of Port Moresby and Honiara. Local soapbox preachers,
common in many towns, give the word of God in Tok Pisin, which can be
quite interesting.
WOMEN IN PAPUA NEW GUINEA & THE SOLOMON ISLANDS
Sexual politics is complicated in traditional Melanesian society. In some
places in the Highlands husband and wife don’t live together at all, and
sexual relations are not to be taken lightly. Some Melanesian men have two
or more wives. In many belief systems women are considered dangerous,
especially during menstruation. Women often live in a house alone with
the young children, or with sisters and their nieces and nephews. In many
places land rights pass through the mother, and older women can wield
great power in the villages.
The display of women’s thighs in Melanesian culture is sexually provoca-
tive but in the villages women will only cover their breasts when foreigners
are present. There’s a distinct difference between the way local people see
themselves and how they expect Westerners to see them, and this harks
back to the way Christian missionaries and conservative mastas expected
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women to cover themselves – it is not an indigenous custom. We see more
and more waitresses in the big city hotels and restaurants wearing uniforms
that incorporate short skirts. They look very uncomfortable and this can
only be a dress-code stipulation from ignorant expatriate managers with no
cultural sensitivity who want their wait-staff to look ‘pretty’.
Women carry kago (cargo) in bilums (string bags) home from the market
while the man walks unburdened. Women do most of the food gardening,
although men grow magnificent decorative gardens. Traditionally, men prac-
tise arts that are exclusively their domain and, although these can sometimes
be shown to women travellers, they are still tambu for local women.
Domestic violence is a major problem. A World Health Organization
report into PNG in 1998 claimed that 56% of women have been victims of
domestic violence, and this means that PNG has the second-highest level of
violence against women in the world after Uganda. In 2006 UNICEF esti-
mated that around one million children in PNG live with violence either at
home or in their community. Traditional Melanesian societies are patriarchal
and the payment of bride price often leads to the belief that the husband has a
right to beat his wife. Public awareness campaigns in recent years have really
brought the issue to the surface, but unless police are prepared to enforce
tougher laws the problem won’t go away. Although alcohol is banned in
parts of PNG, home-brew alcohol – sometimes 90% proof – and resulting
violence is a major problem.
Women, particularly those in rural parts, have poor health outcomes.
In 2002 the UNFPA claimed that about 700 women die of childbirth or Bill Bennett’s In a Savage
pregnancy-related causes each year, and that only 50% of births were attended Land (1999), filmed in
by trained health personnel. Women have lower life expectancies, educational the Trobriands, is about
achievements and incomes, and their rates of literacy are poorer. couple of anthropologists
Physical dislocation and poverty drive some women into prostitution in the 1930s and their
and this is particularly noticeable in Port Moresby, Lae and Mt Hagen. take on the ‘Islands of
The spread of HIV/AIDS in recent years is so serious that it’s regarded as Love’. Australian musician
a genuine epidemic in PNG, which has the highest incidence HIV/AIDS David Bridie’s soundtrack
in the Pacific. Many women are infected by their husbands who are often won a bunch of awards.
promiscuous. Once infected, HIV/AIDS sufferers are ostracised from their
communities, and infected children are abandoned. The rise of HIV/AIDS
has coincided with a resurgence of black magic and witchcraft, and people
in remote parts of PNG and the Solomons who have poor understanding of
HIV/AIDS have inflicted unthinkable cruelties on sufferers – particularly
women – in the name of exorcising demonic forces. Reports continue to
surface about people infected with HIV/AIDS being tortured, brutalised
and even buried alive.
PNG’s only female Member of Parliament is Australian-born Dame Carol
Kidu. The Solomon Islands has none.
ARTS
Papua New Guinea’s arts are regarded as the most striking and varied in
the Pacific, and Solomon Islanders, being great carvers, are part of the same
cultural tradition. The lack of contact between different villages and groups
of people has led to a potent array of indigenous art.
Contemporary art is also vividly expressed – the death of Mathias Kauage,
PNG’s world-famous painter, in May 2003 was a great national loss (see
boxed text, p45).
In traditional societies, dance, song, music, sculpture and body adorn-
ment were related to ceremonies. Art was either utilitarian (such as bowls
or canoes) or religious. Since European contact, art has become objectified.
There have always been master carvers and mask-makers, but their role in
 42 TR HU EN NC IUNLTG HU RE AE D • •• • A rRtus n n i n g s u b h e a d lonelyplanet.com
traditional cultures was to enable the ceremonies and rituals to be performed
correctly, and to serve the clan and chief.
The production of artefacts is itself often ceremonial and ritualistic. On
some of the islands, secret men’s societies build dukduks or carve malangan
masks (totemic figures honouring the dead). Women are forbidden to look
upon a dukduk or malangan until it is brought to life in a ceremony by a
fierce anonymous character.
See the documentary First
Contact (below) before
Cinema & TV
Despite the fact that there’s no local film production, there’s a rich tradition
you die.
of documentary films made in PNG – and in the Solomons to a lesser degree.
Errol Flynn spent time in PNG and more recently Madang’s north coast was
the setting for Pierce Brosnan’s portrayal of Robinson Crusoe.
Australian Mark Worth was born in PNG and spent most of his profes-
sional life there as a pioneering ‘guerrilla’ journalist and film maker. While
shooting his 1995 film Raskols, Worth got embroiled in a Highlands tribal
war. He had just finished making Land of the Morning Star, about the strug-
gles in West Papua, when he died in Jayapura in 2004.
EmTV is PNG’s national broadcaster in PNG. The Solomons launched its
own local One Channel TV service in 2006, broadcasting news in English
for an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening, in Honiara only for
the time being. Satellite dishes in both countries pick up CNN, BBC World
and Australian programmes, as well as other subscription TV. EmTV is very
TOP DOCOS
Bob Connolly and the late Robin Anderson made a trilogy of excellent documentaries about
Papua New Guinea.
First Contact is an extraordinary film, using footage shot by the Leahy brothers when they
went into the Highlands in 1933 in search of gold. Instead they found 100,000 people living in
the Wahgi Valley who had no idea that the outside world existed. It’s truly brilliant cinema, made
from old scratchy black-and-white images showing amazing scenes of Highlanders in traditional
gear. They look completely bewildered when the Leahy brothers land a plane, play music on a
wind-up gramophone and when they see themselves in little mirrors.
Joe Leahy’s Neighbours shows a traditional society slowly coming to terms with the modernised
world. Joe is the son of Mick Leahy (with one of his Highlands concubines) and his profitable
coffee plantation in the Highlands sets him apart from the neighbouring Ganiga clanspeople,
whose subsistence lifestyles remain almost unchanged.
Black Harvest completes the trilogy, showing Joe Leahy’s coffee plantation expanding in partner-
ship with the Ganiga clan. Just before the first harvest (after a five-year maturation), international
coffee prices plummet and clan warfare breaks out.
In 2000 Russell Hawkins made Since the Company Came, about logging Rendova Island in the
Solomons, land disputes and clan troubles.
Dennis O’Rourke’s The Shark Callers of Kontu is justifiably famous. O’Rourke’s film explores the
ancient New Ireland art of shark-calling. He also looks at the bewildering dichotomies for Kontu
villagers between their traditional ways and the impact of a rapidly arriving 21st century.
Also set in a New Ireland village is Chris Owen’s splendid documentary Malangan Labadama,
which depicts the preparations, rituals and festivities surrounding the death of the village mimi
(elder and chief ) Buk Buk in the island’s Mandak region. It provides a wonderful insight into
Malangan culture.
Owen, an expat Australian, also created Bridewealth for a Goddess in 2000, which tells the story
of Amb Kor, a goddess who comes to Highlander chief Ru Kundil in a dream, and his attempts to
woo her through elaborate rituals. Owen’s most recent film is Betelnut Bisnis made in 2004.
Ronin Films (www.roninfilms.com.au) in Australia distributes many of these titles.
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watchable – for a little while. It has its own news and sport programmes,
cheesy local ads in Tok Pisin, local music-video shows and some lightweight
‘lifestyle’ programmes, which mostly advertise outdoor furniture from Brian
Bell stores. Otherwise it carries Australian programming. Watching EmTV is
a good way to pick up some Pidgin language skills. The conservative influence
of the church ensures that TV carries no overtly sexual content (but violent
Rambo-style vigilante movies are very common and popular).
Music
Melanesians are incredibly musical people and some local artists have had
international success. They are great singers – listen to the church singing The Wantok Musik
early on a Sunday morning – and natural guitar and ukulele players. Foundation (www
.wantokmusik.org) is an
TRADITIONAL MUSIC Australian-based not-for-
In recent years there’s been some revival of traditional music, but the impact profit organisation and
of missionary workers has meant many traditional musical forms have been record label that releases
lost. The kundu drum is the most widely used traditional instrument, shaped and promotes music from
like a tall, narrow egg-timer and covered with lizard skin. Many cultures use Melanesia and
garamuts (hollowed-out logs from wrist size up to tree-trunk size). Garamut indigenous Australia.
drummers play astonishing rhythms in hierarchical ensembles where the
senior drummers play the trickiest patterns. The rhythms are specific to the
region and are very complex.
Shells and bamboo panpipes are blown, while rattles are made from gourds
and bundled banana leaves. Highland flutes (simple throwaway bamboo
tubes) are played in pairs and do an eerie call-and-response routine. Sepik
flutes are highly decorated and hollowed from solid timber. Jew’s harps are
also indigenous to PNG. Other instruments include bull roarers and ceramic
whistles from the Highlands.
CONTEMPORARY MUSIC
It’s exciting that countries as small as PNG and the Solomons can support
such strong local music scenes. Local radio is very supportive of local music
(which is readily for sale as cassettes and CDs). Stringband music is played
by four or five guitarists and a ukulele player and based loosely around a 12-
bar blues structure. The guitars are tuned in unorthodox ways and are often
played with an arpeggiated, hammer-on action. The stringband sound has a
real swing to it in a lazy South Pacific kind of way, but it varies widely from
the bright and happy Tolai (East New Britain Province) sound to the more
dirge-like and sombre Manus stringband music. Virtually every village has
its own stringband and most PNG pop music comes out of this tradition.
Reggae is also a strong influence in modern pop music.
In the ’70s and ’80s Sanguma was a pioneering band that fused jazz-rock
with indigenous sounds – and had some international success. Another
artist, George Telek (www.telek.com) has been touring and working in Europe
and Australia. Ben Hakalitz and Baruka Tau performed with Yothu Yindi (www
.yothuyindi.com) in stadiums in Brazil and to close the 2000 Sydney Olympics.
In the Solomons Sharzy is still the top pop performer. He’s a DJ on Z
FM. Narasirato (www.narasirato.com) mix classic Malaitan panpipe music with
contemporary beats. They’ve toured Australia and Japan.
Theatre & Dance
There are community-based drama groups as well as those associated with
the universities and colleges. National funding for theatre has dried up, and
some great initiatives have had to stop. Theatre groups commonly work on
local-legend themes and stories, bringing to life traditional stories.
44 TR HU EN NC IUNLTG HU RE AE D • •• • A rRtus n n i n g s u b h e a d lonelyplanet.com
RECOMMENDED LISTENING
„ George Telek’s Serious Tam, recorded at Peter Gabriel’s Real World Studios, is an evocative
record that features Telek’s extraordinary voice. His 1999 album Telek won an Australian ARIA
Award and he recorded Amete in Melbourne 2004. Telek is a Tolai from Rabaul.
„ Hausboi from Manus are the most interesting new act, and their Diriman CD is great. Crosby,
Stills & Nash harmonies meet stringband rhythms via some boy-band soul and a little hip-hop
(with traditional flutes and garamuts). Highly recommended.
„ O-Shen (www.o-shen.com) grew up near Lae and in America. His father was a doctor and his
mother a teacher, both from the US who worked in PNG while O-Shen was growing up. He’s
the current superstar of PNG music. His music is a fusion of American hip-hop and Hawaiian
and Melanesian islander sounds. Kanaka Pasifika was a huge hit and his new record 1 Rebel
was released in 2007.
„ Tabaran was a collaboration between Australia’s Not Drowning Waving (www.notdrowning
waving.com) and Rabaul-based musicians at Pacific Gold Studios (pre-volcanic eruption days),
including George Telek. A great mix of cultures and music, this 1988 recording is a classic and
pre-dates the worldwide explosion of ‘world music’. Stringbands and funeral chants meet arty
atmospherics, electric guitars and wall-of-sound percussion. Tabaran was reissued in 2007.
„ Litol Rastas are from the Solomons and have a few clips on YouTube. Their Dollar Man CD
features terrible cover art but some terrific contemporary islander reggae sounds.
„ Maiae by Solomons band Tipa is another good CD that mixes string-band parts with strong
vocal harmonies.
„ Also recommended –Tumbuna Man by Khris Kassimis from Manus, and Tei Doh is Bad by Wali
Tribe from Madang.
The Raun Raun Theatre (p157) in Goroka occasionally has performances
by the resident ensemble. The Kaikuali Theatre Group in Alotau is another
long-established group of performers. Drum Drum (www.drumdrum.com.au) is a music,
dance and theatre collective based around the Ingram brothers from Gaba Gaba
near Port Moresby. The group works out of Darwin in northern Australia.
Architecture
Modern architecture is a relatively new concept in PNG and the Solomons.
Haus tambarans were the traditional expression of formal architecture and
there are incredible haus tambarans in the Sepik and in the Highlands. Yam
houses in the Trobriands are another interesting traditional form. An emerg-
ing style blends traditional forms and materials into modern structures on a
large scale. The towering façade of the PNG parliament house takes its shape
and big decorated prow from Sepik haus tambarans. Another individual piece
of architecture is the Raun Raun Theatre in Goroka. On a smaller scale, some
of the upmarket lodges around the country exhibit this building style quite
successfully, such as Ambua Lodge in the Southern Highlands (p174) and
Karawari Lodge (p199) in the East Sepik Province.
Painting & Printmaking
PNG painting is typically ‘flat’, with no sense of perspective or receding
backgrounds. Themes often explore the collision of traditional and modern
cultures or the illustration of local legends, such as the shark or turtle spirit.
Printmaking evolved from the Melanesian tradition of tapa cloth produc-
tion and textile design is often reminiscent of tapa designs. Silk-screening
is common and Papua New Guineans do fantastic T-shirt art (although this
seems to be less common than a decade ago).
lonelyplanet.com R U N N I N G H E A DT H• •E CRUuLT
n nUi Rn Eg S u• •b hAeratds 45
The Faculty of Creative Arts (also known as the National Art School) was
established at the University of PNG in Port Moresby in 1972. With a strong
emphasis on printmaking and painting, some of its graduates have earned
international reputations. Mathias Kauage, Jakuba, Cecil King, John Siune
and Akis have works hanging in overseas galleries; Kauage, in particular, Contemporary Art in
became world famous (see boxed text, below). Papua New Guinea
(1997), by Susan
Pottery Cochrane, is an
The village of Aibom, near the Chambri Lakes, is virtually the only place on excellent book showing
the Sepik that specialises in pottery. Aibom pots are noted for their relief how powerful
faces, which are coloured with lime and made by the coil method (as opposed Melanesian creative
to using a pottery wheel). energy has produced
Other interesting pots can be found near Madang, in the Central Province, great painters like
made by the Porebada people, and at Wanigela in Oro Province. The Amphlett Kauage and Siune.
Islanders in Milne Bay also make delicate pottery. Pottery is not glazed in
Melanesia and is often poorly fired – it can be extremely fragile.
Carving
Carving is the main art of Melanesians and is what they are renowned for. It
can take many forms from tiny pieces to giant garamut drums.
BOWLS & STOOLS
The Trobriand Islanders are prolific carvers of everything from stylised
figures to decorated lime gourds and beautifully made bowls. The bowls
are generally carved from ebony or rosewood and laboriously polished
with a pig’s tusk. The rims are patterned, often featuring a fish or turtle.
The Tami Islanders near Lae are renowned for their carved bowls.
Further offshore the Siassi Islanders carve deep, elliptical bowls that are
patterned with incised designs coloured with lime.
Trobriands stools are wonderful, carved from a single piece of timber and
incorporating intricate detail.
SHIELDS, BOARDS & PROWS
Some of the most interesting Pacific art manifests in shields, canoe prows
and Sepik storyboards. Trobriands splash boards and canoe prows are
magnificent and have a unique design. Traditionally, shields were often
thought to be inhabited by dead ancestors who brought power and
protection to a warrior in war. These days, shields are produced for
MATHIAS KAUAGE Rowan McKinnon
I met Mathias Kauage in 1997 – he was asleep on the concrete path outside a Port Moresby hotel,
his head resting on his folded forearms. His paintings were laid out near the door with a pebble
on each corner, all for sale. They were very striking and filled with vivid images of helicopters
and planes with huge faces in the windows. I vacillated for ages before buying two.
A self-taught artist from Simbu, Kauage started painting in the ‘70s and was so successful
that many artists copied his style, and eventually there was a ‘school’ of Kauage-style
naive-primitivists.
In 1994, when Kauage was invited to exhibit his work at the Glasgow Museum of Modern Art
and a London gallery, he was granted an audience with Queen Elizabeth II. He presented her
with the portrait Misis Kwin, in which she’s depicted with a tribal headdress and a bone through
her nose – it hangs in Buckingham Palace. He was awarded an Order of the British Empire in
1998, and died in 2003 aged 66. Ol binatang blong PNG (All PNG’s Small Animals) hangs in my
loungeroom. His paintings are now seriously collectable.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
46 TR HU EN NC IUNLTG HU RE AE D • •• • A rRtus n n i n g s u b h e a d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R U N N I N G H E A DT H• •E CRUuLT
n nUi Rn Eg S u• •b hAeratds 47

decoration and are often too unwieldy to stave off an incoming spear highly valued and worked into various forms of jewellery. Highlanders espe-
or arrow. cially invest great value in large kina and baler shells worn on the chest.

MALANGAN & GOGDALA CARVINGS Textiles & Weaving

Arsegras is Tok Pisin for
that bit of grass or tanket
leaves that covers your
arse. Your maugras is
your beard.
In New Ireland, master carvers create malangan figures for mortuary rites.
Malangan refers to more than just the carvings – it’s a complex system
of spiritual beliefs and rituals. There are a few master carvers on Tabar
Island and Libba village near Konos. These are spectacular pieces but often
large and terribly fragile.
In the Balimo area Gogodala pieces are also unique, carved like a totem
pole. They can represent humans and spirits, crocodiles and snakes.
CULT HOOKS & SKULL RACKS
Classic Sepik pieces, cult hooks make good souvenirs. The small ones are
called Yipwons, while larger ones are Kamanggabi, and they’re carved as
hunting charms. Food hooks hang bilums of food from the roof to keep
them away from rats, but they also have a spiritual significance.
Traditionally, the skulls of both enemies and relatives were kept, over-
modelled with clay and decorated. Ancestors were worshipped and enemy
skulls were war trophies – both had spiritual power. Skull racks were tra-
ditionally made to display the skulls, but they’re quite beautiful objects
in their own right.
NGUZUNGUZUS
The Solomons’ most famous carved motif is the ubiquitous nguzunguzu
(pronounced ‘noozoo-noozoo’). These can be very beautiful objects and
were originally made to be placed on the prows of canoes, especially
in times of war – nguzunguzus ward off water spirits and strengthen
the raiding party. Native to the Solomons’ Western Province, nguzun-
guzus have been adopted as a national symbol and embossed on the
one-dollar coin.
The weaving loom was unknown in the Pacific before European contact,
but there has been a long tradition of Melanesian tapa cloth produced by
women. Tapa cloth is coarse paper made from soaked and beaten tree-
bark and decorated with various designs. Some tapa is very sacred and
highly valuable.
Shell money of
Other Crafts Bougainville and the
The Chambri Lakes carvers produce decorative spears that are very similar Solomons is made from
to their masks. In the Highlands, the ceremonial Hagen axes are half-tool, rare pink deep-water
half-icon; there you’ll also see lethal cassowary-claw-tipped Huli picks, shells cut into tiny discs
while in the Sepik region you will find equally nasty bone daggers. and threaded on to a
Bilums are colourful string bags which are made in many parts of PNG. string. It’s still precious
They are enormously strong and expandable. They are time-consuming to and deeply meaningful to
make since the entire length of string is fed through every loop. Bilums the culture. Expect to pay
are now also made of synthetic cords which can be garish and sometimes about K50 per metre.
beautiful. There’s a variety of styles – Highlanders make big ‘woollen’
ones made of cuscus fur. Highlanders also make Highland hats, essential
headwear for Highlands men.
Buka baskets, originally from Buka Island in Bougainville, are the fin-
est baskets in the Pacific. Wicker-work figures of various types are made
around Murik Lakes, the Yuat River and the Trobriand Islands.

Masks & Headdresses

Masks in PNG are generally used for decoration rather than some-
thing to be worn. They are prevalent along the Sepik River, but also in
other parts of the country. The Chambri masks from the villages on the
Chambri Lakes are the most contemporary of the Sepik masks – recog-
Aspiring Huli wigmen
nisable by their elongated design and glossy black finish with incised
can spend four years at
brown-and-white patterns.
hair school learning the
At Korogo, in the Sepik region, masks are made of wood, then deco-
fine arts of wigwork. See
rated with clay in which shells, hair and pigs’ teeth are embedded. Other
boxed text, p173.
distinctive Sepik mask styles are found at Kaminabit and Tambanum, and
masks from the Murik Lakes have an almost African look. At Maprik the
yam masks are woven from materials such as cane or rattan, but they are
also carved at Kiwai Island, near Daru on the southern Papuan coast.
Some masks and headdresses are made of woven wicker-style material –
middle Sepik people produce the most famous ones. Baining fire dancers
wear a mask made of bark sewn to a wooden frame, often with huge eyes
and a duck-like beak.

Jewellery
A form of jewellery that figures in traditional ceremonies from Kavieng
down the islands to Makira in the Solomons is the kapkap – open-worked
turtleshell over a white shell disk worn on the forehead. Teeth and tusks are
 © Lonely Planet Publications
48
Tim Flannery is a
naturalist, ecologist,
environmental activist
and author. He has been
Director of the South
Australian Museum,
professor at the
University of Adelaide,
Principal Research
Scientist at the Australian
Museum in Sydney and
was awarded the 2007
Australian of the Year.
He is currently an adjunct
professor at Macquarie
University.
Birds of New Guinea
(1986 & 2008) is the
only comprehensive field
guide to the birds of the
New Guinea mainland.
This is the visiting bird-
spotter’s bible.
The grey black-eared
giant rat, endemic to
New Guinea, grows to
41cm in length…not
including its tail!
Environment Tim Flannery
The island of New Guinea, of which Papua New Guinea is the eastern
part, is only one-ninth as big as Australia, yet it has just as many mammal
species, and more kinds of birds and frogs. PNG is Australia’s biological
mirror-world. Both places share a common history going back tens of mil-
lions of years, but Australia is flat and has dried out, while PNG is wet and
has become mountainous. As a result, Australian kangaroos bound across
the plains, while in PNG they climb in the rainforest canopy.
PNG – A MEGADIVERSE REGION
PNG is one of earth’s megadiverse regions, and it owes much of its diversity
to its topography. The mountainous terrain has spawned diversity in two
ways: isolated mountain ranges are often home to unique fauna and flora
found nowhere else, while within any one mountain range you will find
different species as you go higher. In the lowlands are jungles whose trees
are not that different from those of Southeast Asia. Yet the animals are often
startlingly different – cassowaries instead of tapirs, and marsupial cuscus
instead of monkeys.
The greatest diversity of animal life occurs at around 1500m above sea
level. The ancestors of many of the marsupials found in these forests were
derived from Australia some five million years ago. As Australia dried out
they vanished from that continent, but they continued to thrive and evolve
in New Guinea, producing a highly distinctive fauna. Birds of paradise and
bowerbirds also abound there, and the forest has many trees typical of the
forests of ancient Gondwana. As you go higher the forests get mossier and
the air colder. By the time you have reached 3000m above sea level the for-
ests are stunted and wreathed in epiphytes. It’s a formation known as elfin
woodland, and in it one finds many bright honeyeaters, native rodents and
some unique relics of prehistory, such as the giant long-beaked echidna.
Above the elfin woodland the trees drop out, and a wonderland of alpine
grassland and herbfield dominates, where wallabies and tiny birds, like the
alpine robin, can often be seen. It is a place where snow can fall and where
early morning ice coats the puddles.
Lowlands
Making sense of New Guinea’s spectacular diversity is not easy, for the envi-
ronment is so varied and its animals and plants so abundant that identifying
creatures can be difficult. Let’s start with a sample of what you might find
in the lowlands.
Flying into Port Moresby you’ll encounter grassland – a far cry from
the eternally wet forests that beckon from the distant ranges. Such habitats
exist in a band of highly seasonal rainfall that exists across southern New
Guinea, and the fauna you’ll see there is much like that of northern Australia.
Magpie geese, brolgas and jabirus occupy the floodplains, as do sandy-
coloured agile wallabies, Rusa deer (which were introduced a century ago)
and saltwater crocodiles.
Where the dry season is shorter, however, the savannah gives way to
lowland jungles and there you are in another world. The largest native land
animal you’ll encounter is not a mammal or a reptile, but a bird – New
Guinea’s southern cassowary. Weighing as much as a human, they are secre-
tive creatures, but they can be awesome. The males care for the nests and
chicks, and if you disturb either, you’re likely to hear a sound like a steam
lwown ewl y. lpolnaenleytp. lcaonme t . c o m E N V I R O N M E NRTU N• •N I NP GN HG E–A DA M• •e gRaudni nv ei nr gs eS uRbehgei oa nd 49
KEEP AN EYE OUT
Papua New Guinea is still very much a biological frontier so it’s worth recording carefully any
unusual animal you see. A photograph, local name and description of where it was found will
help a specialist identify it. In little-visited regions, there’s a chance that it will be an undescribed
species. There are still lots of species – especially frogs, reptiles and insects – waiting to be
discovered.
train bearing down on you; it’s the call of an angry cassowary and the crea-
ture can burst from the forest with surprising power and speed. Its kicks are
what must be guarded against, for on each foot it bears a 15cm-long claw –
as wicked and sharp as any stiletto.
It’s the nature of rainforests that their inhabitants form intimate relation-
ships, and the cassowary stands at the centre of an intricate web. It eats the Jared Diamond has
fruit of rainforest trees, and it can fit objects as large as a grapefruit down worked as biologist in
its throat. Its stomach strips the pulp from the fruit but passes the seeds remote parts of New
unharmed, and from them new forest trees can grow – unless a sinister- Guinea. He authored Birds
looking parrot is nearby. The vulturine parrot is a cockatoo-sized bird with of Northern Melanesia:
the colours of an Edwardian gentleman’s morning suit – a sombre black on Speciation, Ecology and
the outside, but with rich vermilion linings. Its head is naked and bears a Zoogeography (2001)
long, hooked beak, hence its common name. Until recently no-one knew with Ernst Mayr. His 1998
quite why its head was so odd – then one was seen neck-deep in cassowary Pulitzer Prize-winning
faeces. The bird specialises, it seems, in picking apart reeking cassowary nonfiction book Guns,
droppings in search of the seeds, and for such an occupation a bald head Germs and Steel was
(which prevents the faeces from sticking) and a long pincer-like beak are made into a TV series.
essential requirements.
Cassowaries are reputed by some villagers to be able fishermen. They
wade into a forest pond and then, using their loose feathers as a net, walk
backwards into the shallows, trapping tiny fish and crustaceans. When they
reach the shallows, with a flick of their rear-end, they fling the creatures
onto the shore. Among their catch are some of the most beautiful of all
freshwater fish, the rainbowfish. Some of these sardine-sized creatures
are bright red, others are striped with the colours of the rainbow, while
still others are bicoloured, with the front half being entirely different in Brian Coates’ two volume
colour from the rear half. Birds of Papua New
If you really wish to understand the lowland jungle, smother yourself in Guinea (1985 & 1990) is
mosquito repellent and take up a comfortable post at dusk. The sun sets more suited to the
rapidly in the tropics, and the insect chorus, which has been drumming coffee-table than the
away all day, alters with the light. An eerier buzzing sound (reminiscent of field. It is filled with
the sound supposedly made by alien spaceships in B-grade sci-fi movies) magnificent photographs
announces the awakening of the ‘six-o’clocks’ – cicadas that sing briefly and is encyclopaedic.
twice each day, at dawn and dusk. Then, as the harsh sounds of the day die
away, the subtle sounds of the night chime in – frogs that sound like bells,
crickets that chirrup incessantly, and the low note of the frogmouth, a large
owl-like bird with gouty feet and a huge, gaping bill.
By now bats are on the wing, and New Guinea has a huge diversity of
them, from the moth-sized, insect-eating Mosia which may flit around you
while the light is still strong, to the great flying foxes with wingspans of
more than a metre and a weight of 2kg, the largest flying mammals ever
to have evolved. Because some species roost in huge colonies near towns,
most Papua New Guineans know such creatures well, and indeed have
been kept awake at night by their raucous quarrelling during the fruiting
season. Many of the smaller, insectivorous bats spend the day in caves.
It’s best not to disturb them there, both for their own sake and because
 50 ENVIRONMENT •• PNG – A Megadiverse Region
Tim Flannery’s books
Mammals of New Guinea
(revised 1995) and
Mammals of the South-
West Pacific and Moluccan
Islands (1995) provide
a species-by-species
account of all mammals
found in Melanesia.
British comedian Bill
Oddie, most famously
part of The Goodies TV
show with Graeme Gar-
den and Tim Brook-Taylor,
is a highly respected orni-
thologist who has visited
PNG many times. He uses
the name WE Oddie for
his serious ornithological
writings.
There are 42 species
of birds of paradise, of
which 36 are unique to
New Guinea. Two species
are found in both New
Guinea and northern Aus-
tralia. The male Raggiana
decorates the flag of PNG.
Birds of paradise first
appeared in European
literature in 1522.
lonelyplanet.com
caves can be unhealthy places (they abound with lung-clogging fungus
among other unsavoury micro-organisms). It’s worth looking around the
entrance of bat caves, however, for you will often find geckos, tree frogs
and snakes there. All are waiting for the bats to pass by at dusk, when they
will try to grab one or two.
New Guinea’s snake fauna includes some extremely venomous species,
such as the taipan and king brown snake, which are limited to the savan-
nahs. Generally speaking the higher up the mountains you go, the fewer
venomous snakes there are. The largest of New Guinea’s snakes are py-
thons, and some are simply enormous. While they’re non-venomous it’s
wise to give them a wide berth, as they are immensely powerful and have
been known to swallow children.
Mountain Forests
The forests of New Guinea’s mountains, including its high-mountain elfin
woodland, are, on first acquaintance, more sedate places. There is often a
distinct chill in the air at dawn, and out of the mist you might hear the
pure tones of the New Guinea whipbird, or the harsher calls of any one
of a dozen birds of paradise. Just why New Guinea is home to such an
astonishing variety of spectacular birds has long puzzled biologists. Part
of the answer lies in the lack of mammalian predators on the island. The
largest – a marsupial known as the New Guinea quoll – is only kitten-
sized. Thus there are no foxes, leopards or similar creatures to prey on the
birds, which as a consequence have developed such astonishing colours
and spectacular mating rituals as to beggar belief. Some species clear a
miniature stage upon which they dance with all the precision of a prima
ballerina, while others build metre-tall towers decorated with colourful
fruit and flowers to attract a mate. They are living jewels, but to see them
you will need to enlist the skills of an experienced New Guinean bushman;
these days, such people are often older men who speak no English, for the
younger generation spends less and less time in the forest.
If you can get well away from the villages, perhaps by accompanying
experienced bushmen on a two- or three-day walk to distant hunting
grounds, you might get to see a tree kangaroo. These creatures are rela-
tives of Australia’s rock wallabies which, five million years ago, took to the
treetops. There are eight species in New Guinea, but in the central ranges
you are likely to see just two. Goodfellow’s tree kangaroo is a chestnut-
coloured creature the size of a Labrador. It has blue eyes, two golden
stripes running down its back and a tail ringed with gold. An eater of fruit,
it is most commonly found in forests between 1500m and 2500m elevation.
Higher up you may encounter the bear-like Doria’s tree kangaroo. It is
shaggy, brown and immensely powerful, and lives in family groups.
Walking through the mountain forests at night you enter another envi-
ronment. The trunks of great fallen trees, which by day are invisible under
a mass of leaf-litter, are lit up by luminous fungi. You can often follow the
shattered trunks through the forest for tens of metres. And everywhere are
the glowing green parasols of luminous mushrooms. In the trees you might
spy some of New Guinea’s marsupials. Among the more common are the
cat-sized, coppery ringtail possum. Its name comes from its fur, which ap-
pears to be tipped with burnished copper. It’s a peaceful leaf-eater, which
lives in tree-hollows or even in burrows underground. If you’re fortunate
you’ll see a triok, a black-and-white striped animal the size of a kitten. It
has a long, skeletal finger (which it uses to ‘fish’ for wood-boring grubs),
a raucous screech, and it stinks like a skunk.
lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• PNG – A Megadiverse Region 51
Alpine Regions
Where the woodland gives way to the alpine regions another world unfolds.
There the tiger parrot calls from stunted umbrella plants. Rhododendron
bushes and tufted orchids are covered with flowers, and any woody plants
are festooned with ant plants. These relatives of the coffee-bush resemble
misshapen bottles more than plants, and are honeycombed with passages
that serve as home to colonies of ants. In a perfect example of the intimate A good place to see PNG’s
ecological relationships that abound in the forest, the ant protects the plant, incredible array of giant
while the plant provides shelter for its tiny defenders. bugs and butterflies is at
You’ll see well-worn tracks winding through the alpine tussocks. Some are Parliament Haus. Under
made by diminutive wallabies, others by giant rats. New Guinea is home to a the stairs in the huge
spectacular diversity of rats, which comprise fully one-third of the mammal entrance hall is a couple
fauna. These distant relatives of the laboratory rat are spectacularly varied: of cabinets that display
some look like miniature otters and cavort in mountain streams, others re- all the country’s creepy
semble small, tree-climbing possums, while still others look, and smell, like crawlies.
rats from elsewhere. Among the most spectacular are the giant woolly rats,
which arguably are the largest rodents in the world. Several species inhabit
the alpine zone, where they eat vegetable matter and live in burrows below
the tussocks. They can grow to almost 1m long from nose to tail-tip, and
have teeth that could snip a thumb off without trying, yet they are gentle
creatures that never attempt to bite unless harassed.
In two of the highest mountain regions in PNG – the Star Mountains in
the far west and Mt Albert Edward near Port Moresby – one of the country’s
most enigmatic birds can be seen. Known as McGregor’s bird of paradise, it is Mark O’Shea’s A Guide to
a velvet-black bird the size of a large crow which makes a distinctive rattling the Snakes of Papua New
sound as it flies. Under each wing is a large orange spot, and behind each eye Guinea (1997) and Mike
a fleshy, flapping orange wattle of skin. It’s a strangely trusting bird, making McCoy’s Reptiles of the
it easy to get a good look at if you are lucky enough to stumble across one. Solomon Islands (1980,
Although long classified as a bird of paradise, genetic studies have recently now also available on CD)
indicated that it is a highly specialised honeyeater! are both highly useful.
Other Regions
New Guinea’s more isolated mountain ranges and islands are biological
places of their own. The Torricelli Mountains in New Guinea’s Sepik region
started out as an island archipelago, but now form part of the mainland.
The mountains are home to a unique array of creatures, such as Tenkile, a
black tree kangaroo that is one of the rarest creatures on earth. Perhaps just
a few hundred survive in the forests south of Lumi, where a conservation
programme is based which is trying to protect this last remnant. Even rarer
is Weimanke, a relative of Goodfellow’s tree kangaroo, which has a white face
and golden ears; it is among the most beautiful of all mammals and only a Tim Flannery’s Throwim
handful survive to the east of Lumi. If you’re fortunate enough to hike into Way Leg (1999) is a
the mountain forests that are home to these creatures, you’ll find a misty tremendously enjoyable
wonderland of abrupt gullies and ridges, the summits of which are adorned account of his adventures
with grand palms bearing bright red fruit. Here the black sicklebill dwells, as a biologist in remote
its explosive call of ‘blak, blak’ drawing attention to this long-tailed creature, New Guinea. It’s rich,
whose dark plumage glistens with the colours of the rainbow. rollicking and imbued
The islands of southeastern New Guinea hold their own wonders. Muyua with an appealing sense
Island (Woodlark), the most remote of the Trobriands group, is home to of wonder; don’t land
a primitive cuscus, each individual of which is – rather like a tabby cat – without having read it.
differently marked. Goodenough, just south of Kiriwina Island, is a huge spire
of rock whose mountain forests give refuge to a unique mountain wallaby
whose outer fur is black while the underfur is white. It’s a long-isolated relic
of Australia’s Pliocene period of five million years ago, but to see it you will
need to climb hard for two days to reach its habitat.
 52 ENVIRONMENT •• Soloman Islands lonelyplanet.com
Australia and New The Bismarck Archipelago is home to spectacular fruit bats, including
Guinea have the world’s the largest of them all – the great flying fox, whose wingspan can approach
only macropods and 1.5m. The more petite Bismarck flying fox is the size of a pigeon and has a
monotremes. The Agile boldly patterned black-and-white face as if it’s wearing a mask, and, unusually
Wallaby is found in New
among mammals, the males’ breasts produce milk.
Guinea and Australia, but
most of New Guinea’s SOLOMON ISLANDS
macropods are endemic The Solomon Islands represent a whole other environment, for they are an
tree-kangaroos that are ancient island archipelago that has never been connected to a continent. The
quite distinct to cuscus found there only reached the islands a few thousand years ago with
Australian species of
people. The true endemics are giant rats, monkey-faced bats, and unusual
kangaroo and wallaby. birds such as the Guadalcanal honeyeater. The giant rats are rare now, but
you might be fortunate enough to spot one of the half-dozen species in dense,
virginal forest. One of the largest species makes nests like those constructed by
eagles, in the tallest rainforest trees. One other aspect of the Solomons fauna
is a radiation of frogs that is unique. Some look like dead leaves, others like
lumps of moss, while one genus, which is often found in caves, is gigantic,
reaching over 20cm long.
NATIONAL PARKS & WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREAS
Land is protected in various ways in PNG. There are few national parks;
the most accessible is Varirata National Park (p83), although you may also
David Attenborough’s find yourself in national park areas at Mt Wilhelm and Lake Kutubu (p172).
BBC documentary There are also various regional parks, wildlife sanctuaries and, arguably of
Attenborough in Paradise most interest to visitors, wildlife management areas, such as that at Crater
is the definitive work on Mountain Wildlife Management Area (p160). Rennell (p279) in the Solomon
birds of paradise. You Islands is World Heritage listed.
could spend years in the Creating ‘national parks’ as such has proved ineffective in Melanesia,
bush and not see some of largely because the main form of land tenure is clan-based ownership. As a
the behaviours recorded result Melanesian conservationists have now turned to the development of
there. wildlife management areas as the main tool for conserving the environment.
In these areas, local landowners have agreed to set land aside for wildlife on
the basis that tourism or some other form of income generation will make
this worthwhile.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Threats to the environment of PNG and the Solomon Islands are, to the
outsider, rather surprising in nature. The media frequently run stories on
how mining and logging are the main threats. These differ in their impact,
so they need to be treated separately. Mining often has a very adverse local
impact, notorious examples being the destruction of the Carstensz Meadow
Many people in PNG
and pollution of the Aikwa River by mining company PT Freeport Indonesia
can’t access safe water or
(in neighbouring West Papua) and pollution of the Ok Tedi River by Ok
toilets. In the highlands
Tedi Mining. Overall, such activities are so limited in scope that they do not
Kup Women for Peace
threaten the extinction of entire species. Changes in local culture following
is working with Oxfam
the advent of mining, however, can have larger impacts. Bulmer’s fruit bat
(www.oxfam.org.nz) and
almost became extinct in the 1970s when traditional taboos broke down and
WaterAid (www.water
shotguns became more available in the Ok Tedi area (it is reported that shot-
aid.org.au) to gain the
guns were given as payment for the company’s exploration geologists).
intertribal cooperation
Logging has a more widespread impact, but is mostly limited to lowland
necessary to allow water-
areas. Because New Guinea’s lowlands are extensive, and log quality is gener-
pipes to cross traditional
ally poor when compared to forests elsewhere, logging has not as yet directly
land boundaries.
threatened species with extinction. In the Solomon Islands, logging is much
more of a threat, both because more of the land area is slated to be logged
and because some species depend on very large areas of virgin forest.
lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 53
WILDLIFE SPOTTING
Good places to see wildlife:
„ Ambua Lodge (PNG; p174) In comfort; in the Tari Gap, Southern Highlands.
„ Kumul Lodge (PNG; p169) Specialist birders’ lodge in Enga Province, 40 minutes from
Mt Hagen.
„ Crater Mountain Wildlife Management Area (PNG; p160) For the more adventurous; in the
Southern Highlands area.
„ Karawari Lodge (PNG; p199) In pristine lowland rainforest in the foothills of East Sepik
Province.
„ Walindi Plantation Resort (PNG; p227) Walindi is famous amongst divers, but also attracts
lots of birdwatchers.
„ Labu Tali Conservation Area (PNG; p135) Huge hawksbill and leatherback turtles nest here
between November and March.
„ Wau Ecology Institute (PNG; p139) Butterflies bred here supply collectors all around the
world.
„ Ohu Butterfly Habitat (PNG; p146) This community conservation project breeds butterflies,
including PNG’s huge birdwing varieties.
„ Jais Aben (PNG; p146) Easy access for divers and snorkellers to a stunning variety of marine
wildlife.
„ Kau Rainforest Museum & Wildlife Area (PNG; p147) Pioneering wildlife management area
operated by the Didipa people.
„ Teptep Guesthouse (PNG; p150) High up in the Finisterre Range. Near the guesthouse is a
tree kangaroo conservation program.
„ Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (PNG; p208) Situated within the Tonda Wildlife Management Area
in a vast floodplain that’s home to Rusa deer, crocodiles, wallabies, wild pigs, birds and giant
barramundi.
„ Wilderness Lodge (SI; p269) Crocodile-watching excursions are organised here in the
southern part of Marovo Lagoon.
„ Uepi Island Resort (SI; p267) Great for seeing giant monitor lizards and coconut crabs.
„ Maravagi Resort (SI; p262) This is a good place to see manta rays gliding by in Sandfly
passage.
„ Tetepare Island eco-lodge (SI; p266) Famous for its turtles and turtle breeding grounds.
„ Kuila Village Stay (SI; p263) This is a great place for seeing Savo’s megapodes.
So what are the main threats to Melanesia’s biodiversity? An inexor-
able growth in human population, especially in the Highlands, has already
caused the extinction of many populations of larger animals and without The New Guinea cuscus is
doubt represents the most immediate threat. This has occurred in concert closely related to Austral-
with a breakdown in traditional taboos that previously protected many ia’s possums. Tradition-
species. Tree kangaroos, harpy eagles and other larger animals have de- ally cuscuses are eaten
clined precipitously in recent decades and many are slated for extinction and their fur is still used
unless something is done. In the Solomons this has been exacerbated by in making Highlands hats
the introduction of cats, black rats and other exotics that have caused and bilums. Cuscuses are
extinctions. The recent establishment of macaques in West Papua may endangered – products
threaten a similar wave of extinction in New Guinea. containing their fur are
The greatest long-term threat to Melanesia is global warming. Most of the confiscated by Australian
region’s biodiversity lives in the mountains, so when the earth warms these, customs.
species will be pushed off the mountain summits, a process that could destroy
© Lonely Planet Publications
54 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s lonelyplanet.com

RAINFORESTS & THE RISE OF ECOTOURISM

Tropical rainforests are vital to the communities of PNG and the Solomon Islands, supplying local
people with clean drinking water and an array of fresh food. Forest, river and marine resources
provide a substantial portion of the basis for subsistence living, and the immense biodiversity of
their forests is central to the economic, cultural and social wellbeing of local communities.
International demand for cheap tropical hardwood is driving a lucrative timber trade in the
rainforests of both countries, with minimal local economic benefit and damaging flow-on effects.
In PNG the timber industry’s power extends into the finance sector, travel and shipping and, most
concerning for open, public debate on the issue, parts of the media. Much of the timber trade is
illegal and run by well-organised international syndicates, fuelling corruption and in some cases
violence and human-rights abuses. In the Solomon Islands a large proportion of the country’s
valuable forests have also been exhausted without improvement to sustainable community liv-
ing or human development.
Fortunately, there are ways you can visit and enjoy the incredible natural environment of PNG
and the Solomons without being part of the problem.
Increasingly, communities are looking for ways to generate income without destroying their
natural heritage. This is happening in many places along the coasts, in the mountains and on the
islands, by communities setting up conservation areas and ecotourism ventures. After witnessing
the impact of seven years of damaging logging on their land, the Simbukanam people of Madang
Province decided to put aside 1000 hectares of intact rainforest as a protected conservation
area. They have since seen an increase of wildlife in their forests and have seen fish return to
rivers that had been polluted by erosion, silt and chemicals from logging. The Didipa clan, also
of Madang, set up the Kau Rainforest Museum and Conservation Area (p147), where visitors can
learn about traditional food and bush medicine, and might see rare insects and butterflies in
their natural habitat.
Many villages are not yet set up for visitors, but by staying in those listed in this guide, many
of which are owned and operated by local communities, you directly support that community’s
(often difficult) decision to choose ecotourism over logging or oil palm plantations. You also give
yourself the best chance of seeing a birdwing butterfly, a leatherback turtle, a 30cm stick insect
or a 30m waterfall. And staying at locally run guesthouses is one of the best ways to meet and
get to know Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders, away from the distractions of urban
areas, in the relaxed atmosphere of the village.
You can find out more at www.acfonline.org.au/bulldozingprogress and www.ecoforestry
.org.pg.
Lee Tan, Australian Conservation Foundation

20% or more of the region’s biodiversity. Conserving Melanesia’s biodiver-

sity begins in your home; by using less electricity or sourcing power from
renewable sources, you can do something towards curbing global warming.
It’s important that initiatives such as wildlife management areas gain
support, as they are Melanesia’s best chance to conserve its wildlife in the
long term.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
55

Diving in
Papua New Guinea
& Solomon Islands
Many professional underwater photographers rate diving in PNG and the
Solomons as the acme of their career – evidence that both countries have a
strong visual appeal below the surface. Think a resplendent tapestry of hard and
soft corals, colourful fish life, dizzying drop-offs and a smorgasbord of historic HOW MUCH?
WWII ship and plane wrecks, all enveloped in warm waters year-round. Introductory dive: US$100
Rounding off the picture are the almost complete lack of overdevelop- (not including equipment
ment, the magnetic beauty of the islands and the coast, and well-established rental)
dive operations offering personalised service. There’s also the thrill of explor-
Single dive: US$55-75
ing virtually uncharted territories aboard live-aboard dive vessels.
(not including equipment
You don’t need to be a strong diver to sample such variety. Sure, a
rental)
number of sites are accessible only to advanced divers, but you’ll also find
a profusion of relaxing, uncomplicated dive sites. Two-tank dive: US$120-
It’s not the cheapest place on earth to dive, though. However, diving in a 140 (not including
forgotten paradise is a priceless privilege. equipment rental)
Equipment rental: US$20-
DIVING CONDITIONS 40 daily
Average surface sea temperatures vary between 25°C and 30°C. You won’t
Open-water certification:
need anything more than a 3mm wetsuit. Both PNG and the Solomons are
about US$600
diveable year-round although conditions vary according to the season, the
prevailing winds and the tides. Visibility varies a lot, from a low of 10m
at certain sites to a maximum of 40m.

DIVE CENTRES
Both PNG and the Solomons boast highly professional dive shops which
employ well-trained instructors. Most dive centres provide personalised

0 200 km
Diving in Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands 0 120 miles

Kavieng

BISMARCK SOUTH
SEA PACIFIC
Rabaul OCEAN

Madang Kimbe Bay

PAPUA
NEW GUINEA
SOLOMON
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SEA
Marovo
Gizo Lagoon
Gulf of Munda
Papua Tulagi
Tufi Russell
Islands Guadalcanal
Port Moresby
Torres Strait
Milne Bay
SOLOMON
SEA
AUSTRALIA CORAL
SEA
 56 PA P UA N E W G U I N E A • • M a d a n g lonelyplanet.com
attention and favour small groups. They offer a whole range of services
and products such as introductory dives, night dives, exploratory dives,
and certification programs. Most dive centres are PADI-, SSI- or NAUI-
affiliated, three certifying agencies that are recognised internationally.
Centres welcome certification from any training agency, but may ask you
to do a check-out dive to assess your skills.
The dive sites presented In the Solomons, most operators are land-based. In PNG, you can choose
are only a sample of the from live-aboard dive boats or land-based operations.
dozens available. For Diving in PNG or the Solomons is expensive in comparison to most desti-
more information about nations in Asia or the Caribbean. Generally, prices don’t include equipment
diving in PNG, see Lonely rental, so it’s not a bad idea to bring at least part of your gear if you plan
Planet’s Diving & many dives. Most dive shops accept credit cards.
Snorkelling Papua New
Guinea. It details 115 dive
sites, with full-colour
photos throughout.
PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Papua New Guinea offers truly world-class diving. The marine biodiversity
is exceptional, incredibly healthy reefs look like an underwater Garden of
Eden and the absence of crowds on the sites is a prime draw. And as on
land, there’s a sense of adventure to spice up the diving. Another clincher is
the mind-boggling array of wrecks – of ships, aircraft and even submarines,
mainly from WWII.
You will find excellent diving facilities in Port Moresby, Madang,
Milne Bay, Rabaul, Kavieng, Kimbe and Tufi, among other places. Or you
could get away from it all and explore remote areas aboard a live-aboard
dive boat.
MADANG
Madang’s outer reefs support diverse marine life. Hot favourites include Pig
Island and nearby Barracuda Point, Magic Passage and Pig Passage. You’ll likely
come across aggregations of barracuda, trevallies and sweetlips, as well as
photogenic barrel sponges and a variety of soft and hard corals. Some sites
are subject to powerful currents, depending on tidal changes.
Much closer to Madang is Planet Rock. This perennial fave features a
submerged seamount around which barracuda, tuna, snappers, jacks and
whitetip reef sharks whirl.
YOUR FIRST FINSTROKES
Both PNG and the Solomons are great places to learn to dive, with year-round warm waters,
glittering blue seas, experienced instructors, shallow reefs, and the guarantee to see tropical
species and fantastic wrecks: all this set against idyllic backdrops.
Just about anyone in reasonably good health, including children aged eight and over, can
sign up for an introductory dive (from US$100). Dives typically take place in shallow (3m to
10m) water and last about 30 minutes (the whole session lasts about three hours). Divers are
escorted by a divemaster.
If you enjoy your introductory dive, you might want to enrol in an Open Water course. Expect it to
last about four days, including a few classroom lectures and open-water training. Once you’re certified,
your C-card is valid permanently and recognised all over the world – it’s like a driving licence.
In PNG, the greatest variety of instruction is found around the Port Moresby area, where many
of the expats get certified. In the Solomons, Guadalcanal, Munda, Marovo Lagoon and Gizo are
the best places to learn to dive.
One proviso: take note that it’s probably more economical to get initial certification at home
prior to coming to PNG or the Solomons as instruction here is not cheap.
lonelyplanet.com PA P UA N E W G U I N E A • • P o r t M o re s b y & A r o u n d 57
ALL ABOARD!
For hardcore divers, there are live-aboard dive boats operating out of various locations in PNG
and the Solomons to access remote locations. They usually schedule seven- to 14-day cruises.
Check out their websites for itineraries. Some boats and their base ports:
Barbarian II (www.niuginidiving.com) Lae, Morobe.
Bilikiki & Spirit of Solomon (www.bilikiki.com) Honiara, Solomon Islands.
Chertan (www.chertan.com) Alotau, Milne Bay.
FeBrina (www.febrina.com) Walindi, New Britain.
Golden Dawn (www.mvgoldendawn.com) Port Moresby.
Marlin 1 (www.marlin1charters.com.au) Alotau, Milne Bay.
Moonlighting (www.blueseacharters.com) Madang.
Spirit of Niugini (www.spiritofniugini.com) Milne Bay.
Star Dancer (www.peterhughes.com) Kimbe, New Britain.
Telita (www.telitadive.com) Alotau, Milne Bay.
To the north, just off Wongat Island, the tugboat Henry Leith sits upright
in 20m and makes for an easy dive, while the coral-encrusted B25 Mitchell
aircraft lies in less than 15m.
See p142 for dive centres in Madang.
PORT MORESBY & AROUND
Port Moresby has probably the best diving of any capital city in the world,
with a wide variety of dive sites easily accessible from the Dive Centre
(p76) based on Loloata Island (p90). A few minutes’ boat ride from your
bungalow is a WWII aircraft wreck, the Boston A20 Havoc, resting in 18m
on a silty bottom. Further south is another prime wreck, the 65m-long
Pacific Gas, formerly a liquid-gas carrier, which was scuttled in 1986 for
recreational diving. Depth ranges from 14m at the bow to 43m at the
propeller.
More classic dives can be found around Horseshoe Reef, especially the
End Bommie, famous for its fish life and healthy corals. Another wonderful
site (further west) is Suzie’s Bommie, with a big pinnacle rising from the sandy
floor to about 12m below the surface – an oasis of life.
Loloata is also noted for its superb muck-diving potential. A few finstrokes
from your bungalow, Loloata Island Jetty features lots of tiny critters and bizarre
fish, from mantis shrimp to dwarf lionfish. There’s a
Nothing’s perfect, though. One weak point is visibility, which sometimes decompression chamber
doesn’t exceed 10m. for divers in Honiara and
Other highly regarded sites in the area: in Port Moresby. DAN
Big Drop An impressive drop-off, with marauding sharks and rays. (Divers Alert Network;
Nadine’s Passage Huge fields of soft corals and spectacular walls. www.danseap.org)
Pai A 25m-long fishing trawler, with lots of resident species. provides insurance and
emergency evacuation for
TUFI travelling divers.
Tufi (p107) is pure bliss if you’re looking for variety. Fancy muck diving?
Try Tufi Wharf, which is just on your doorstep. In the mood for wreck
dives? The scattered remains of two PT boats can be seen at 40m directly
down the Tufi Wharf. Too gentle for you? Make a beeline for the S’Jacob,
a Dutch merchant ship that was sunk during a Japanese air raid during
WWII; this ship is for experienced divers only (she lies in 60m). And there
are fabulous offshore reefs, including Cyclone Reef, Veale Reef, Mulloway and
Stewart Reef.
See p108 for the dive centre in Tufi.
 58 PA P UA N E W G U I N E A • • M i l n e B a y lonelyplanet.com
AN EYE FOR DETAIL
Growing weary of coral reefs, sharks and all the big stuff? Well, it’s time to muck dive. This simply
means that you concentrate on tiny, exotic and weird-looking critters such as ghost pipefish,
pygmy seahorses, manta shrimps, banded snake eels, nudibranchs, flatworms, leaf fish and sand-
dwelling species, to name but a few. They are usually found in places which, at first sight, are
devoid of interest to divers; sheltered bays, poorly developed reefs, sea grass beds, mangroves,
wharves, and wrecks close to the shore. Muck diving is also easier (divers avoid waves and cur-
rents) and shallower, allowing longer bottom time – all the better for beginners.
PNG is a muck-diving mecca, especially the Milne Bay area (p111), Tufi (p107) and Loloata Island
(p90). All you need is a keen eye…or a good dive instructor to show you the little aliens.
MILNE BAY
Muck diving, great sheer walls, coral seamounts and lots of pelagic action: it’s
impossible to get bored in Milne Bay (p111). Nuakata Island is a prime diving
area, with lots of pristine reefs and abundant fish life. Here you’re almost
sure to see schools of fish in shallow waters, along with marauding pelagic
such as grey sharks, tuna and Spanish mackerel. Boirama Reef, in the passage
between Nuakata Island and Boirama Island, also attracts large fish.
Also accessible on a day trip from Tawali is the north coast of the mainland.
Get a buzz by drifting along steep walls and keeping your eyes peeled for
sharks and other biggies.
A relatively newly opened dive area, Duchess Island, a 45-minute boat ride
to the north from the Tawali dive centre, boasts numerous untouched sites.
Expect coral pinnacles ablaze with fish life, elaborate soft corals and regular
sightings of sharks.
Take note that visibility in Milne Bay is highly variable, and currents
might be tricky. Best seasons are from September through January and
April through June.
Other renowned dive sites:
China Strait A high-voltage drift dive through the strait.
Observation Point An excellent muck dive on a sandy slope.
P38 Lightning Aircraft Wreck A plane wreck in good shape, lying in 27m on the northern side
While it’s fine to dive of Basilaki Island.
soon after flying, it’s Samarai Island Superb ‘wharf dive’; the structures of a wharf are wreathed with corals.
important to remember
that your last dive should See p114 for the dive centre in Milne Bay.
be completed at least
12 hours (some experts RABAUL
advise 24 hours) before Rabaul (p220) has gained a glowing reputation as one of PNG’s finest areas
your flight, to minimise for wreck dives, with a collection of shipwrecks lying in Rabaul Harbour.
the risk of residual One of the most easily accessible wrecks is the Manko Maru, which was sunk in
nitrogen in the blood that 1943. She sits upright in 35m and the cargo hull can be penetrated. The Italy
can cause decompression Maru is slightly shallower, with the bow and stern in 33m. Sadly, she’s heavily
injury. silted and in fairly bad shape. Outside Rabaul Harbour, be sure to bookmark
the coral-encased George’s Wreck, the bow of which rests up on a steep slope
in 15m, with the stern deck in about 55m, and the Zero Fighter, off a beach to
the west of Kokopo. She sits at 27m, upright and in pretty good shape.
Once you’ve had your fill of wrecks, you might want to explore some
good old reefs along the north coast of the Gazelle Peninsula. One of our
favourites is Reimers Reef: its contoured topography is a feast for the eyes, with
overhangs, swimthroughs and canyons; fish life is astoundingly dense and
there’s a fabulous mixture of hard and soft corals. Another stunner is Tom,
Dick and Harry Reefs, a string of seamounts that plummet to 50m.
lonelyplanet.com SOLOMON ISLANDS 59
Other regularly visited dive sites:
East Point The reefs are wreathed with luxuriant corals in every colour of the rainbow.
Lighthouse Huge coral bommies on the southwest side of Ura Island.
Submarine Base A scenic drop-off at Cape Tawui, easily accessed from the beach.
See p220 for some dive centres in Rabaul.
KIMBE BAY
Flying into Hoskins from Port Moresby or Rabaul you will soon discover
what sensational underwater world awaits you in Kimbe Bay (p226). Gaze
through the windows; see those coral patches scattered like confetti on the
inky-blue waters? They are towering seamounts. Crowned with coral for-
mations climbing out from the continental shelf, they attract an amazing
array of marine life – more than 350 types of hard coral and 860 species of
fish, from cute pygmy horses to massive hammerhead sharks, vie for your
attention. The tapestry of colours and textures is equally fascinating; soft and
hard corals, seafans the size of a fridge, giant sea whips and huge barrel and
elephant ear sponges compete for every inch of space on the reef.
In the middle of the bay, there’s a reef chain running roughly north
to south. Susan’s Reef, Venessa’s Reef, Kirsty Jaines Reef and Christine’s Reef all
feature splendid seascapes, with healthy seafans, sponges and coral gar-
dens. To the west, Restorf Island is usually used as a second dive. Further
north, you’ll dive photogenic seamounts, including Joels, South Emma,
Inglis Shoal and Anne Sophie’s Reef. Wreck diving is not a strong point in
Kimbe Bay but a sunken Zero Fighter adds a bit of variety, to the north
of the bay, close to the shore.
It’s not perfect, though. Strong currents and variable visibility (we ex-
perienced less than 10m) can cause disappointment. Lengthy boat rides to
most sites (45 minutes on average) are another drawback.
See p226 for information on the dive centre in Kimbe Bay.
In PNG, be sure to get
KAVIENG a copy of Niugini Blue
Kavieng (p229) used to be dubbed ‘the pelagic capital of the country’ but (www.niuginiblue.com),
sadly it’s no longer the case – shark finning has taken its toll and the popula- Papua New Guinea’s
tion of sharks has been drastically reduced. However, the large reef system watersports magazine,
that stretches between Kavieng and New Hanover offer thrilling dives, es- launched in 2007. It has
pecially in the passages. Just outside Kavieng, Echuca Patch features a large articles on diving in PNG.
ridge rising from 45m to 12m. A Korean fishing boat, the Der Yang, lies on
its starboard side close to Echuca Patch, in about 30m. In the same area,
Blowholes is very atmospheric, with lots of swimthroughs and fish life.
To the south, Albatros Passage, Kabin Reef, Peter’s Patch and Steffen Strait
won’t disappoint. Lots of current means lots of fish life; rays, turtles, bar-
racuda, tuna, jacks and grey sharks can be encountered.
If you’re after wrecks, rest easy; there are a few sunken planes in Kavieng
harbour, as well as the B25 Aircraft Wreck near Albatros Passage.
See p229 for the dive centres in Kavieng.
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Let’s get one question out of the way: what was the impact of the tsunami
that hit the Gizo area in 2007 on the marine ecosystem? Well, large tracts
of reefs were battered and a smattering of iconic sites did lose much of
their appeal, but overall the level of destruction was relatively low. The
rest of the country was not affected.
60 SOLOMON ISLANDS •• Guadalcanal lonelyplanet.com
DIVING WITH A CONSCIENCE
Please consider the following tips when diving to help preserve the ecology and beauty of reefs:
„ Encourage dive operators in their efforts to establish permanent moorings at appropriate
dive sites.
„ Practice and maintain proper buoyancy control.
„ Minimise your disturbance of marine animals and avoid touching living marine organisms
with your body or equipment
„ Take great care in underwater caves, as your air bubbles can damage fragile organisms.
„ Take home all your trash, and any litter you may find as well.
„ Never stand on corals, even if they look solid and robust.
„ Do not buy or collect seashells, and do not buy any turtleshell products.
„ Dive with a local dive operator that follows high safety, ethical and professional standards.
In many respects diving in the Solomons is similar to diving in PNG. One
main difference is that most dive operations are land-based, whereas PNG
is famous for its excellent live-aboard dive fleet. But what really sets the
Solomons apart is a sense of ‘forgotten paradise’ that can’t be found anywhere
else. PNG may be a better established dive destination, but diving connois-
seurs are finding that the Solomons offer great experiences too.
GUADALCANAL
Wrecks galore! With such turbulent history, it’s no surprise that Guadalcanal
has number of world-class sunken WWII vessels lying close to the shore.
Most sites can be reached by car from Honiara.
Rejoicing begins with Bonegi I & II, about 12km west of Honiara. Bonegi I,
a giant-sized Japanese merchant transport ship, also known as the Hirokawa
Maru, lies in 3m of water descending to 55m, just a few finstrokes offshore.
This 172m ship features just about everything a wreck diver hopes for: great
coral growth, lots of atmosphere, excellent fish life, safe penetration, artefacts
and a manageable diving range.
About 500m further west, the upper works of Bonegi II, also known as
Kinugawa Maru, break the surface, a towel’s throw from the beach. Its stern
reaches down to 27m.
Then comes Ruaniu, also known as Bonegi III, about 4.5km west from
Bonegi II, which features another 140m Japanese transport ship, the Kyushu
Maru. Average depth ranges from 6m to 45m. Behind the Kyushu Maru lie
two other wrecks, including the humongous Azumasan Maru, said to be the
most atmospheric wrecks off Guadalcanal, but they lie deep (beyond 40m).
Despite its proximity to the shore, access can be tricky if the sea is choppy
(this author got wicked coral cuts when trying to access the site).
At Ndoma, don’t miss the wreck of the US B-17 Flying Fortress bomber which
lies 100m offshore in less than 18m – perfect for novices.
At Veuru, about 42km from Honiara, the Japanese I-class submarine I-23
is 350m from the shore on a nearby reef, from 5m to 30m. It has largely
collapsed but the ballast tanks are still clearly visible and it’s a haven for
small fish.
Also on the menu, east of Honiara:
John Penn This large US-troop ship was bombed and sunk about 4km offshore, east of Honiara.
For experienced divers only. Boat access.
Searpens Not far from the John Penn, but closer to the shore, this big ship lies upside down.
Average depth is from 20m to 40m. Boat access.
lonelyplanet.com S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • Tu l a g i 61
Seminole A US tugboat that lies east of the John Penn in 40m, on a sandy bottom. Low visibility
due to runoff but lots of fish life.
See p253 for dive centres in Honiara.
TULAGI
There are superb sunken WWII shipwrecks in the vicinity of Tulagi Harbour,
including the monster-sized USS Kanawha, a 150m-long oil tanker which
sits upright, and the USS Aaron Ward, a 106m-long US Navy destroyer that’s
noted for its extensive arsenal of big guns. The catch? They lie very deep
(the Kanawha lies in 45m and the Aaron Ward in 65m) and are accessible
to experienced divers only. OK, you want something less intimidating…ask
for the Moa, a New Zealand minesweeper which rests in less than 40m, or the
Japanese seaplanes, in less than 30m. Visibility is not the strong point here;
expect 10m to 15m on average.
There are also awesome reef dives, such as Twin Tunnels, which features
two chimneys (in fact two lava tubes) that start on the top of a reef in about
12m and descend to a cavern and exit on the reef wall at about 35m. Strong
currents usually mean pelagic action. Another signature dive, Sandfly Passage
is an exhilarating wall-drift dive – you’ll feel as though you’re gliding, ac-
companied by a procession of fish. And there’s Manta Passage, near Maravagi,
one of the Solomons’ secret highlights, with regular sightings of huge manta
rays – fabulous!
See p262 for the dive centre in Tulagi.
If you’re a certified diver,
RUSSELL ISLANDS bring your C-card and
Shhh…these are the Solomons’ best-kept secret. The Russell Islands (p263) your dive logbook.
have absolutely pristine sites, a dramatic topography and stellar visibility due
to regular currents. The only way to dive this sensational world is to sign up
for a cruise with the MV Bilikiki or the MV Spirit of Solomon (www.bilikiki
.com). Both live-aboards schedule cruises to the Russells from Honiara.
MUNDA
Munda (p264) offers a good balance of wreck and reef dives. A 25-minute
boat ride from Munda, Shark Point is a sloping reef that seldom fails to produce
good sightings of grey reef sharks, silvertips, devil rays, snappers, batfish and
turtles, but you’ll have to go very deep (around 50m) to see the marauding
sharks. Nearby Top Shelf features top-notch coral gardens and varied fish life.
In the same area, Susu Hite is a relaxing dive on a lively reef in less than 20m –
perfect for novices. A few finstrokes from Susu Hite, The Pinnacle refers to
a massive bommie which acts as a magnet for manta rays and grey sharks.
FRANCK BOULAY’S UNDERWATER PARADISE
A French-Australian citizen and a dive instructor based in the Solomons since 1993, Franck Boulay
has dived all over the archipelago and runs a dive shop in Honiara. ‘I have never gotten bored
in almost 15 years of diving here. What sets the Solomons apart is the unique combination of
accessible wrecks and virgin reefs, with the added lures of the warmest waters in the world and a
sensational, preserved ecosystem.’ His favourite wrecks? ‘The USS Aaron Ward, for its photogenic
perspective, and the Azumasan, for the atmosphere and the scenery.’ He also raves about the
Nggelas: ‘There’s a site where sightings of big manta rays are almost guaranteed.’ Another sug-
gestion, Monsieur Boulay? ‘Be sure to tell your readers that it’s now perfectly safe here in the
Solomons and sites are uncrowded’. Duly noted.

62 SOLOMON ISLANDS •• Nor th Marovo Lagoon lonelyplanet.com
The typical dive plan consists of swimming around the pinnacle. Sadly, most
corals at this site were damaged during the tsunami in 2007.
Seasoned divers shouldn’t miss the opportunity to sample the Cave of the
Kastom Shark. Descend vertically through a chimney down to 13m, follow a
tunnel and exit at about 25m into the cobalt open water.
Wreck fans will be spoiled here too by the following sites:
Casi Maru A Japanese boat, in less than 20m. Visibility is often very reduced due to silt after
heavy rains (logging!).
Corsair A WWII US fighter that rests undamaged close to the shore on a sandy bottom, in about 50m.
SBD Douglas Dauntless Bomber This US plane lies on a sandy bottom in 12m in Rendova
Harbour. It’s fun to sit in the intact cockpit. It’s usually handled as a third dive.
See p264 for the dive centre in Munda.
Go to www.pngdive.com NORTH MAROVO LAGOON
for more information on This is Uepi Island Resort territory. And heaven on earth for a diver. The
diving in PNG. Kellys, who run the resort and the in-house dive shop, have done a wonderful
job in promoting this exceptional dive area, which has a vibrant assemblage
of dramatic walls (on the ocean side), exhilarating passages (especially
Charapoana Passage, just on the resort’s doorstep) and uncomplicated reef
dives, all within close reach of the resort. They also offer daytrips to further
dive sites, near Seghe. It’s also a good place to learn to dive.
A few favourites:
Bapita Sinkhole, Penguin Reef, Taiyo Fishing Boat Wreck, Lockheed P38 wreck &
Dauntless Dive-Bomber Aircraft wreck Four dives that are combined in a not-to-be-missed
full-day excursion, near Seghe. The Sinkhole features a vertical shaft that exits at 28m into the
deep blue. Very scenic. The P38 is just off Seghe airstrip and is in good condition. Nearby is the
Dauntless SPDA22, in only 10m.
BOTCH Stands for ‘Bottom of The Channel’. Drift dive on the sandy bottom of Charapoana Passage,
just off the dive shop.
Deku Dekaru Three caves that are carved into the reef. A photographer’s delight, with much
twisting and turning and light play in the caves. Maximum depth is 6m.
Elbow Caves A network of gutters are carved into the reef wall. Sunbeams play through skylights
in the caves – magical.
Elbow Point On the outer reef. A magnificent drop-off, lavishly draped with seafans. Good
chances to spot pelagics.
Manga Passage A deep-water passage, about 30 minutes by boat north of the resort. Fantastic
coral walls.
North Log & South Log Easy dives on the outer reef. Feature a series of overhangs.
Point to Point You navigate across Charapoana Passage, from Charapoana Point to Uepi Point,
amid schooling reef species and pelagics. For seasoned divers only.
Uepi Point An iconic dive site, on the ocean side of the passage. Sizzles with electric fish action –
sharks, jacks, barracuda, trevallies – with the added lure of an exceptional backdrop of corals,
seafans and sponges.
See p267 for the dive centre in North Marovo Lagoon.
SOUTH MAROVO LAGOON
Uepi, watch your back! With the launching of a dive centre in Peava village in
2007, the underwater wonders of the southern tip of Marovo are now on the
map in diving circles. South Marovo rewards divers with a host of very scenic
sites off a cluster of three islands – Kicha, Mbulo and Male Male Islands –
all accessible by a 15- to 30-minute boat ride from Peava.
We can’t use enough superlatives about Toana, off Mbulo Island. What a
scenic drop-off! Angelfish, butterfly fish, jacks, cuttlefish, and many other
© Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • G i z o 63
reef species will keep you entertained while you cruise along the drop-off
dripping with luscious corals and seafans. Another highlight is the dramatic
underwater terrain, with lots of cavelets and undercuts. Off Kicha Island (the
furthest of the lot), End of the World, Fantastic Fans and Picnic are well worth the
30-minute boat ride. Here again, expect a constant parade of reef tropicals,
dramatic drop-offs and scenic ridges. Fantastic Fans says it all: the drop-offs
are embellished with seafans the size of an Austin Rover.
Off Male Male Island, you’ll strike gold at Golden Dawn, which features
undulating ridges dripping with golden soft corals, and Male Male North, an
excellent shallow dive with lots of tiny critters. Surface intervals are usually
spent picnicking on one of the islands.
Too good to be true? Well, yes, there are sometimes big swells between
the mainland and the three islands, which may make access to the sites
tricky. Luckily, there are alternative sites along Nggatokae’s shoreline, up
to Dovelei Island to the north.
See p267 for the dive centre in South Marovo Lagoon.
GIZO
Unspoiled reefs plus dense marine life plus spectacular wrecks equals memo-
rable dive sites for all levels. On the minus side, the 2007 tsunami did wreak
havoc on a few charismatic sites (particularly Grand Central Station, north of
Gizo, and Hotspot, east of Gizo, where huge coral fields were battered), but
overall it’s not too bad in other places. The local dive centre continues to
offer Grand Central Station and Hotspot for their amazing fish life (including
sharks), but we found it depressing to hover over coral rubble.
Luckily, the Toa Maru is still in good shape. The best wreck dive around,
this well-preserved 140m Japanese freighter lies a mere 15 minutes away
north of Gizo. Penetration of the hull is possible, and there’s still crockery,
sake bottles, ammunition, gas masks, medical supplies, anti-aircraft guns,
a motorcycle and two small tanks. Lying on the starboard side, the vessel In Gizo, the local dive
is only 100m from shore and resting from about 18m down at her bow to centre offers two-tank
around 37m at her stern. dives. You spend your
Just off Fatboys (p270), Kennedy Island is a lovely spot to learn to dive, often surface interval at
with a parade of reef fish to observe on the sprawling reef. There’s also a steep Fatboys or picnicking on
wall that will keep advanced divers happy. Nearby One Tree Island is another an idyllic island.
must-see dive, with lots of fish action. In the same area, Naru Gap, Inside Naru
and Gap Out have coral growths (fairly well preserved despite some damage
caused by the 2007 tsunami), copious tropical fish and large pelagic creatures.
Yellow Corner, on the outer reef south of Naru Island, will make your spine
tingle, with a parade of biggies and a profusion of yellow-tinged soft corals
which enhance the visual appeal of the site.
Rounding out Gizo, we must mention a small Hellcat lying on a sandy
floor in 9m, to the southeast of Kennedy Island. It’s a fun dive that’s usually
combined with Secret Spot, a first-class dive site famous for its schooling fish
and atmospheric seascape, with a mix of sandy valleys and a sheer wall.
See p271 for the dive centre in Gizo.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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64
Food & Drink
While Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands are still not primary
destinations for the gourmet traveller, the culinary scene has improved
markedly in recent years. While wonderful seafood can be found on the
coasts and islands, the rest of the traditional diet consists largely of bland,
Captain John Moresby starchy vegetables that become tedious. Which bland vegetable is served
must have enjoyed depends where you are. In the Highlands, probably it will be kaukau (sweet
the meal he ate when potato), on the islands, it’s taro or yam. In some places you might be offered
he landed on Samarai all three. With little to inspire them, locals generally take a ‘food for fuel’
Island in 1873, because attitude to eating, though this changes for celebrations so if you get an
he promptly named it invite, don’t turn it down.
Dinner Island. Perhaps There are no restaurants dedicated to traditional food and you really
not wanting to encourage need to get into a village (or find a local friend in the city) to find it. But
the cannibals nearby, the in the bigger towns, travellers can expect to eat pretty well in hotels and
name was changed to resorts, and in the growing number of independent restaurants, which are
Samarai. mostly Asian. These Asian restaurants are a good bet for vegetarians, and
there’s always plenty of vegetables in the villages. However, in some places
refusing food can be insulting, so vegetarians at mumus (pig feasts) should
sensitively suggest before the meal arrives that they don’t dig pig. Others
might find the prospect of a slab of barely cooked blubbery pig-meat pretty
hard to stomach even if they’re not vegetarian – discretion can be the bet-
ter part of valour. Remember two things: first, in traditional Melanesian
society it is good manners for the host to wait until everyone else is eating
before he or she eats (so you can’t just sit on your hands and say you’re not
hungry), and second, in Melanesia good manners are everything!
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
The staple food is saksak (sago) in the Sepik and other swampy areas of
PNG. Saksak is basically pure starch, but where it is too swampy to grow
There are some local anything else, it is vital. On the Sepik, dry saksak is usually mixed with
dishes that might have water and fried into a rubbery pancake, but it can also be boiled into a
you hesitating. In the gluey porridge. Mixed with grated coconut it becomes quite palatable,
Sepik region frogs are but by itself it is almost tasteless. To make saksak, men cut down a sago
traditionally served up palm, cut away the bark and pound out the pith, leaving a fibrous sawdust.
next to mice, spider or Women then knead the pith in a bark funnel, draining water through the
snake. Skewered sago pith to dissolve the starch. The starch-laden water is collected (often in
grubs, roasted flying fox an old canoe) and the starch settles in an orange, glutinous mass at the
and python soup are bottom. In the Highlands the staple is kaukau (sweet potato). In taste, it
considered good sources is virtually indistinguishable from staples elsewhere in the region, which
of protein. include taro, yams and cooking bananas. The situation is sometimes a
little more inspiring along the coast because there is excellent seafood
and the cooking makes heavier use of coconut and, increasingly, spices
like ginger. Haibica is a stringy spinach-like vegetable often served as side
dish. It has a sharp, slightly bitter flavour. For recipes that reflect modern
PNG cooking (such as chicken taro bake and yam patties), check out
www.michie.net/png info/recipe1.html.
Because of the limited animal life, protein deficiency has traditionally
been a problem. In many regions, potential game (reptiles, birds, rodents
and small marsupials) is scarce but hunting is still important. Apart from
the fresh fish available on the coast and some rivers, pigs are the main source
of meat protein, although they are generally saved for feasts (p66). Chicken
(kakaruk) is also quite popular.
lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks 65
You’ll see plenty of coconut husks lying around, particularly in the island
provinces of PNG and in the Solomons. The milk from a green coconut is
drunk or used in cooking (such as in a mumu, p66), and the flesh is also
used in preparing food.
A legacy of WWII is the prevalence and popularity of canned meat and
fish. Locals prefer tinned fish (tinpis) to fresh fish, and whole supermarket
aisles are devoted to bully beef (buli). Rice (rais) is eaten with virtually The yam is sacred in the
every meal. Although local cuisine seems monotonous and unimagina- Trobriand Islands but a
tive, produce available at markets is varied and excellent. You’ll see growing population and
capsicums, tomatoes, peanuts, avocados and spectacular fresh tropical limited food source has
fruit. In the Highlands you can sometimes get strawberries, cauliflower seen some locals dismiss
and broccoli. their local yams in favour
of the more flavoursome
DRINKS and plentiful African yam.
Most of the coffee grown in the PNG Highlands is Arabica and it’s excellent.
Elimbari is grown by smallholders in the Chuave region of Simbu Province
and is the best coffee in PNG. Many locals drink Nescafé. In coastal areas of
PNG and throughout the Solomons young coconuts are a common source
of liquid refreshment.
South Pacific Brewery in PNG produces three very good beers. SP Lager is
the everyday drink and comes in a short brown bottle known as a ‘brownie’.
The more expensive version is South Pacific Export Lager, and comes in a
clear bottle or white can. The ‘trendy’ new brew is Niugini Ice which, at 5.2%
alcohol, packs a punch.
Australian wine and spirits are available in hotels and restaurants, though
they are not cheap – you’ll pay upwards of K45 for cheap and cheerful Papua New
Aussie red. Guineans were banned
The local brew in the Solomons is Solbrew, which is a lager beer; Solbrew from consuming alcohol
SB is stronger. until 1963. Until that
time drinking was a
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK whites-only activity.
Where you eat will depend on your budget, your sense of adventure and the Since then Papua New
size of the place you’re in. In towns and cities the ubiquitous kai bar will Guineans have taken to
probably lure you in for a snack at least once. Kai bars look and taste like beer drinking with relish.
Australian milk bars of the late 1970s; that is, they sell meat pies (K2 to K3),
sausage rolls (K2), deep-fried dough balls (K0.50) and, probably your best bet,
pre-prepared meals of indeterminable Asian origin (about K6). We haven’t
listed many kai bars – just look for people milling around.
The number and quality standards of restaurants is rising, though in both
PNG and the Solomons they’re found only in larger centres and resorts.
Chinese restaurants predominate, ranging from cheap and cheerful places
with meals for about K10 to more elaborate affairs where you can spend
upwards of K50. There is also the odd Japanese, Korean or Thai place in
Port Moresby where meals cost about K45 to K70. Hotels and resorts all have PNG is the land of the
fairly good restaurants, with prices reflecting the quality of the establishment; biscuit. Kundu cracker
expect to pay between K35 and K80 per meal. Tipping is not necessary, but is both a brand and
most restaurants add 10% VAT to the bill. the term for the large,
Hours can vary considerably, but in general restaurants open for lunch dry biscuits available
from about 11.30am to 2.30pm and dinner from 6pm or 7pm until 10pm, from trade stores and
or whenever the last diner leaves. Where the price of a meal is listed in this supermarkets. A good
book, we are referring to a main dish plus one other course (usually a salad Kundu cracker is so tough
or dessert) and a drink. you could send it home as
In villages you’ll eat whatever the villagers eat and pay between K15 and a postcard.
K30. If you’re lucky enough to be around for a mumu (traditional under-
ground oven) the price will probably rise a bit to cover the cost of meat.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
66 FOOD & DRINK •• Habits & Customs lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s 67

EAT YOUR WORDS

TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS
Useful Phrases
„ Asia Aromas (Port Moresby; p80) The Chinese and Thai food is a perennial favourite and Most restaurants have menus in English only, but in smaller places these
you’re likely to be dining with a who’s who of PNG’s movers and shakers. Apart from great phrases might be handy:
food, there’s a friendly atmosphere, good service and fair prices. Is the restaurant open/closed? Haus kaikai i op/pas?
„ Eden Restaurant (Madang; p144) The authentic seafood laksa will make you curl your toes Do you have an English menu? Yu got menyu long Tok Inglis?
and cry with pleasure. Lunchtime meals are a steal at K12, and dinner courses are ample Does this dish have meat? I gat abus long dispela kaikai?
enough to share with a friend or two. I don’t eat beef/pork/chicken/ Mi tambu long bulmakau/pik/kakaruk/
„ Club Havanah (Honiara; p256) George, the French chef in this high-class spot in the Honiara dairy products susu samting
Hotel, does first-class French cuisine with a creative islander bent. Excellent fish and meat I’d like… Mi laikim…
dishes, and wicked desserts. The bill, please Mi laik peim kaikai bilong mi
„ Capitana Restaurant (Honiara; p256) The restaurant at Honiara’s top-end Solomon Kitano I enjoyed the meal Mi laikim tumas dispela kaikai
Mendana Hotel is renowned for terrific Japanese cuisine and fantastic tuna sashimi.
„ Auong Guesthouse (Muschu Island, Wewak; p184) Perhaps the best home-cooked reef fish Food Glossary
in PNG. You catch the fish and owner George will grill it on an open fire under the stars on a
wiski alcohol
palm-fringed beach.
bulmakau beef
bia beer
Self-catering is the cheapest way to eat, and markets are the best kopi i blak/ret black coffee
and most interesting place to find fresh produce. Outside towns you kapiak breadfruit
can buy other ingredients from the small trade stores found in almost kakaruk chicken
every village. The range will probably be limited to rice, instant noodles, kulau/kokonas coconut, green/ripe
Ethnographer Miriam tinned fish, bully beef, salt, beef crackers (aka Kundu crackers) and, if
kuka crab
Kahn’s book Always you’re lucky, SP Lager. Anything more you’ll need to take with you.
However, most large towns have a good-sized supermarket with a wide kindam crayfish
Hungry, Never Greedy: kiau egg
Food and the Expression range of foods.
Formal drinking venues consist of hotels and resort bars, restaurants and pis fish
of Gender in a Melanesian
the occasional nightclub. Otherwise, you could do worse than kicking back kaikai food
Society (1996) shows how
the Wamira people use in a village with beer, a beach and a tropical sunset. Beer outside main prai/praiim fry/to fry
food to objectify towns is warm due to the lack of refrigeration – after a few mouthfuls this kawawar ginger
emotions, balance doesn’t seem to matter. aiskrim ice cream
relationships and control abus meat
desires. HABITS & CUSTOMS susu milk
Food plays a vital role in many PNG and Solomon Island cultures.
karuka/marita pandanus
For some, pigs are the traditional measure of wealth and even today a
pig is preferred to cash. A man’s status is often measured by his skills popo pawpaw (papaya)
as a gardener: how many yams he produces and how large they are, pik pig/pork
for example. liklik kindam prawn
The most famous local cooking style is the mumu, a traditional under- rais rice
Food Rules: Hunting, ground oven in which fire-heated stones are placed in the bottom, meat loli wara soft drink
Sharing, and Tabooing and vegetables wrapped in banana leaves are placed on top, and then the mumu/mumuim steam/to steam
Game in Papua New pit is sealed with more heated stones, branches and leaves and left to kaukau sweet potato
Guinea (2000) by Harriet steam. For feasts, the pits may be hundreds of metres long, and filled rediim kaikai to prepare a meal
Whitehead is an with hundreds of whole pigs. Such a feast might be held to celebrate the
praiim to roast
anthropological look settlement of a tribal conflict.
Most people eat three times a day and meals are often big, especially sayor/kumu/kumis vegetables
at the role of food in wara water
traditional PNG society. in rural areas; don’t be surprised if your trekking guide eats two or three
times as much as you. Most people can’t afford restaurants and will eat at kopi wantaim susu white coffee
home. They probably won’t talk too much until the meal is finished, and
women will often eat separately to men.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
For travellers, it’s best not to head out to dinner too late, especially if you’re restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
after a cheap feed. Kai bars close by 7pm. only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Fast-food outlets are becoming common. Every town seems to have a Big
Rooster these days.
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
PORT MORESBY 68 lonelyplanet.com
HISTORY
Port Moresby While Port Moresby today has dozens of dif-
ferent tribal groups, only two can truly call it
home: the Motu and Koitabu. The native peo-
ple of the Port Moresby area (and much of the
eastern tip of the mainland) are descendents
of Polynesian people, unlike the predomi-
nantly Melanesian population. The Motu are
First-time visitors to Papua New Guinea’s capital Port Moresby can find it confronting and even traditionally a sea-going people and didn’t
intimidating, but since all visitors enter PNG through its gritty capital almost everyone ends up arrive until relatively recently, probably less
spending some time here. Port Moresby is the South Pacific’s largest city, and while the sprawl- than 2000 years ago. Motu villages were built
ing capital isn’t among the world’s great metropolises, it does have redeeming features. on stilts over Moresby Harbour. Hanuabada
(‘Great Village’) was the largest of their com-
A visit to Parliament Haus, PNG’s most impressive building, and the cultural displays at munities and still exists today. Stilt houses can
also be seen at Koki Village near Town and
the National Museum are recommended – the mosaic façade of Parliament Haus will excite
Tubuseraia down the Magi Hwy.
any photographer in the late afternoon. The National Botanical Gardens are a highlight; The first European to visit was Captain
when the orchids are blooming, it’s perhaps the city’s most charming spot. Outside town, John Moresby in 1873, after whom the har-
Varirata National Park is heaven for bird-watchers and the drive there is rewarding. bour was named. Moresby explored exten-
sively along the south coast and spent several
The city’s relatively sophisticated infrastructure is a bonus. If you’ve been wandering through days trading with villagers at Hanuabada. He
villages for weeks, a meal at one of the good restaurants is perfect after the dozens of sweet was impressed with the people and their
potatoes you’ll have consumed. Or it’ll serve as a welcome treat before heading bush.
lifestyles, posing the rhetorical question in
his diary, ‘What have these people to gain
Experiencing Port Moresby is about people rather than sights. It’s a microcosm of PNG’s from civilisation?’ One year later, the London
Missionary Society arrived and was soon fol-
future and it’s fascinating to talk with expats and locals to sense what it’s like to live in a city
lowed by traders and ‘blackbirders’, who re-
rated one of the earth’s most dangerous and least liveable. cruited indentured labourers and were little
better than slave-dealers.
Be mindful in Port Moresby (don’t flash your jewels), but there’s no need to be paranoid. In 1888 Port Moresby became the capital
With so little work available, most people sit around smoking, chewing betel nut, reading the of the newly declared British New Guinea.
newspapers – they’ll regale you with good manners and thoughtful conversation. Under Sir William MacGregor’s remarkable
10-year administration, the government in
HIGHLIGHTS Port Moresby and a national police force
were established. Sir Hubert Murray was
„ Gazing up at the towering, mosaic façade of Parliament Haus (p74) done in Sepik haus appointed chief judicial officer of British
tambaran style; it’s PNG’s most noted New Guinea in 1904, and in 1906 the terri-
architectural icon tory was handed to Australia, itself only five
„ Seeing the spectacular orchids’ explosion of
years independent of British-colonial rule.
form and colour at the National Botanical Murray took over administration of Papua,
National
Gardens (p76) Botanical as it was known, until his death in 1940 at
Gardens
78 from leukaemia at Samarai Island while
„ Driving out to solemn Bomana War Varirata
still on duty.
National
Cemetery (p83) and contemplating the Parliament Haus
Park
Port Moresby was overshadowed by Lae,
dramatic history of WWII that it reveals Bomana War
the supply base for the gold rushes in Wau
Cemetary
„ Enjoying the cool air of Varirata National and Bulolo, and Rabaul until WWII. The
Park (p83) and the great bird-watching Asia
Aromas Loloata Island Japanese quickly occupied all of northern New
opportunities Guinea and were rapidly advancing south
„ Catching a boat out to Loloata Island (p90)
when Port Moresby became the staging post
for some excellent snorkelling and diving for Allied troops fighting along the Kokoda
Track. Port Moresby remained in Australian
„ Chowing down on some fine food at Asia
hands throughout the war.
Aromas (p80) and other excellent restaurants.
After the war, Papua and New Guinea
were administered as one territory with
„ POPULATION: 250,000 „ AREA : 240 SQ KM Port Moresby becoming the capital largely
P O R T M O R E S BY • • H i s t o r y 69
PORT MORESBY
by default – more attractive alternatives
such as Lae and Rabaul had been flattened
by Allied bombing.
ORIENTATION
Port Moresby is a collection of districts
rather than a single city; it sprawls around
the coast and inland hills. It can be a dif-
ficult place to get your bearings – it’s quite
hilly and few roads follow a straight line.
A tourist map and a compass are help-
ful. The modest CBD is called Town, and
perches on a spit of land that ends in Paga
Hill, at the city’s southwest end. Town has
most of Port Moresby’s few older buildings,
the shipping docks and wharves, and is
bounded to the south by popular Ela Beach.
Town has businesses, shops and some good
restaurants, but few hotels.
The Poreporena Fwy runs from the
Royal Papua Yacht Club and the Harbour
City buildings just north of Town, in-
land to Hohola, Gordons and the air-
port, about 11km away. It is also the best
route to Waigani, home to Parliament, the
National Museum & Art Gallery, and most
government offices.
Boroko is the district that has become
the de facto centre of Port Moresby, with
even more businesses, shops, banks, restau-
rants and several places to stay. Four Mile
is, strictly speaking, the neighbourhood on
the western side of Hubert Murray Hwy
that lies between Boroko and Hohola, but
many people use the names Four Mile and
Boroko interchangeably.
The potholed Hubert Murray Hwy, once
the only roadlink to the airport with Town,
is still the best route between Town and
Boroko. These are the two districts with
most interest for travellers, though Ela Beach
is a nice promenade. Waigani Dr stretches
northwest from Boroko past more Hohola
hotels and the Waigani government build-
ings, onto the University of PNG (UPNG)
and the Botanical Gardens.
To the south of Town, the main road
runs alongside popular Ela Beach until
you reach Koki, home to the market and
another stilt village. A few kilometres past
the airport the road divides, the left branch
heading north then west toward Kerema and
the right branch climbing east to Sogeri and
the Kokoda Track. Boroko’s large bus stop is
the main PMV hub.
PORT MORESBY 70 P O R T M O R E S BY • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • I n f o r m a t i o n 71

PORT MORESBY
0 4 km
PORT MORESBY & AROUND 0 2 miles

iver
A B C D To Yule I; E F G H
Kerema

Goldie R
INFORMATION SLEEPING
Dive Centre..................................(see 3) Airways Hotel & Apartments......... 3 D3
NCD Tourist Office......................(see 8) Bluff Inn Motel................................4 F1 La
lok
1 UPNG Bookshop............................1 C2 Gateway Hotel...............................5 D3 i R 1
To Lea Lea Kokoda Trail Motel........................6 H2 ive McDonald's
r Corner
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
National Botanical Gardens............2 C2 Hombrum's Bluff

ὈὈ
Waigani Swamp To Owers' Corner
Lookout (8km); Kokoda
Track (8km)

Hwy
Bomana
War Cemetery 4

ano
Porebada GEREHU
Lalok

Hirit
i River
2

Rd
Napa Napa Rd 1 Rouna
i University of Rd Falls Kokoda
Barun ri
oge Monument

W
Papua New Guinea S Soge a Rd

ai
ri Rd
Subitan

ga
ni

ὈὈ ὈὈ
Mt Erima 6
2 2

Dr
Fairfax Harbour A

Boe
s Rouna
See Boroko t
WAIGANI Jacksons r

Vag
& Waigani o Crystal
Tatana I Map (p77) International l

i R
Malaria Airport a Rapids
Point

d
8 b Varirata
SEVEN
National Park

e
Wreck of MILE
MV MacDhui GORDONS 5

R
HOHOLA

Hwy
3

aig
Fwy

a
Morea-

ὄὄὄ
Haidana I Stilt Villages

an
na
Tobo Rd

i D
y

n
re
ra SIX
ur

po

g
Napa Napa W MILE

ro
ard M
rt

Po
Moresby Do
be

e
KONEDOBU sR gu
Harbour d H u ra

s
Idler's BOROKO Rd
3 Napa
ELA 3
Bay Napa
Stamava Pt Peninsula BEACH
TOWN KOKI
Ahearn Pt KOROBOSEA
7
Sc

Tau
rat

hle c ram
See Town Walter y Rd a Bootless
& Ela Beach Bay KILA

ὄὄὄὄὄ
Gemo I KILA SABAMA Bay

Rd
Map (p75) EATING
KC's Deli..........................................(see 3)
Joyce Koki Market.......................................7 C3
Lolorua I Bay Rattle 'n' Hum Pizzeria.....................(see 5)

M
ag
i
DRINKING

Hw
Daugo I Loloata I
Phoenix Bar......................................(see 4)

y
Manubada
(Local) I
ge

4 Sinavi Reef TRANSPORT 4

ssa

Avis..................................................(see 8)
Pa

Hertz................................................(see 5)
Jacksons International Airport............ 8 D2
k

s
li
si CORAL SEA MAF................................................(see 8)
Ba To Hula
Nateara Reef Beach Thrifty..............................................(see 3)
Pyramid Point (100km)

Maps INFORMATION Police (%000) K22; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Almost opposite
The best and most up-to-date maps of Port Bookshops Women’s counselling (%180 1991) Crowne Plaza.
Moresby are found in the front of the PNG Sadly, there is only one decent bookshop in Datec (Map p77; %303 1333; www.datec.com.pg;
telephone directory and the ubiquitous red Port Moresby, the UPNG Bookshop (Map pp70-1; Internet Access Waigani Dr, Gordons; per hr K20; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to
Nationwide Papua New Guinea Business & %326 7375; UPNG, Waigani Dr, Waigani; h8.30am-4pm Top-end hotels offer broadband internet ac- noon Sat) The fastest connection.
Street Directory. The free booklet Welcome Mon-Fri), and even that stocks mostly course- cess, and some have wi-fi access. Apart from
to Port Moresby, published a number of work materials and academic texts. Top-end the hotels, Port Moresby has few internet Libraries
times each year, has a simple centrefold map hotels have a few overpriced books and there cafés, their connections are only moderately National Library & Archives (Map p77; %325 6200;
with most places of interest clearly marked. are a couple of duty-free shops at the airport quick and they keep short hours. There are Independence Dr, Waigani; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm
It’s available at hotel reception desks and (past Immigration) that have some decent two in Town, one in Gordons and none Sat, 1-4pm Sun) An Independence gift from Australia, this
the like. books on PNG. Make sure you bring your own in Boroko. library houses a huge PNG collection.
The National Mapping Bureau (Map p77; %327 reading material because you can’t even buy a Fastlink Broadband Internet Café (Map p75; United
6223; natmap@datec.com.pg; Melanesian Way, Waigani; trashy airport novel in Port Moresby. Church Bldg, Douglas St, Town; per hr K15; h8am-5pm Medical Services
h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) produces a huge two- Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Next to the historic church; fast con- Whatever the situation, it’s probably worth
part 1:10,000 street map of Port Moresby Emergency nections. Planning to open a branch in Boroko. calling one of the two clinics first.
(2000), which is also available as a far more Ambulance (%111) Datanets Internet Café (Map 000M02C; www.datanets.com Paradise Private Clinic (Map p77; %325 6022;
manageable book. Fire (%110, 321 3658) .pg; AON Haus; %320 0633; MacGregor St, Town; per hr Taurama Rd, Boroko; h24hr)
PORT MORESBY 72 P O R T M O R E S BY • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s
Port Moresby General Hospital (Map p77; %324
8200; Taurama Rd, Korobosea)
Port Moresby Medical Centre (Map p77; %325
6633; info@pmms.net; cnr Vaivai Ave & Mavaru St, Boroko;
h24hr) Best place in an emergency. Can arrange medi-
vac and has a decompression chamber on site.
DENTISTS
Dr Richard Pickworth (Map p75; %321 1137, after
hours 321 1298; Ground fl, Mogorn Motu Bldg, Champion
Pde, Town) Good reputation.
Mills Dental Care (Map p75; %320 0600; 1st fl,
Deloitte Tower, Douglas St, Town)
Money
ANZ and Westpac are more efficient than
Bank South Pacific, where you’ll likely grow
old waiting to change your money. If you’re
changing cash or travellers cheques, ask for
the international desk. See p296 for more
on money.
TOWN
ANZ (Map p75; %180 1444; cnr Champion Pde &
Musgrave St, Town) ATMs are more reliable than Westpac’s
ones. Can use Visa and MasterCard.
Bank South Pacific (p75; %321 2444; cnr Musgrave &
Douglas Sts) Agents for Western Union.
Westpac (Map p77; %322 0888; cnr Musgrave & Doug-
las Sts) Agent for American Express. In theory, ATMs work
for Visa, MasterCard, Cirrus, Visa/PLUS, Maestro. There’s a
charge of K20 to change cash.
BOROKO
ANZ (Map p77; %180 1444; Hubert Murray Hwy) Has
ATMs.
Bank South Pacific (Map p77; %323 2288; cnr Nita
St & Angau Dr)
Westpac (Map p77; %322 0888; Nita St)
Post
Boroko Post Office (Map p77; %300 3794; Tabari Pl,
Boroko; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat)
Post Office (Map p75; %300 3797; cnr Cuthbertson
St & Champion Pde, Town; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to
11.30am Sat)
Telephone
At least half of the phones at the airport and
outside the post offices in Town and Boroko
should be working. See p300 about using the
excellent Telikad system.
Prepaid mobile start-up kits (including
prepaid SIM cards) are available from the
government-owned PNG Telekom’s B Mobile
lonelyplanet.com
network as well as the newcomer Digicel.
These two systems don’t talk to each other,
and when we visited Moresby many people
were carrying around two mobiles – one B
Mobile and one Digicel. See p300 for more on
the great telecommunications debacle.
Tourist Information
Kokoda Track Authority (Map p77; %325 1887;
kokodatrackauthority@global.net.pg, 1st fl, Brian Bell
Plaza, Boroko; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Statutory
body that administers activities related to the Kokoda
Track – it collects and distributes trekking fees, liaises with
landowners etc. Good place to come if you’re looking for a
guide or want to join a trek.
NCD Tourism Office (Map pp70-1; Jackson’s Interna-
tional Airport; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Small, under-
funded National Capital District tourism booth.
PNG Tourism Promotion Authority (TPA; Map p75;
%320 0211; 5th fl, MMI Haus, Champion Pde, Town;
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Provides limited informa-
tion on accommodation; it’s mainly about marketing and
promotion.
Travel Agencies
Dove Travel (Map p77; %325 9800; fax 325 1451;
Angau Dr, Boroko; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This
Catholic-run agency is pretty well connected with all forms
of transport in PNG plus international flights. Can also sug-
gest cheap sleeping options if you’re desperate.
Westpac Travel (Map p75; %322 0663; fax 322 0640;
Douglas St, Town)
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Port Moresby can be a dangerous place, but
it’s not the hell on earth that many who’ve
never been here make it out to be. The vast
majority of visitors to Port Moresby leave
unscathed, and if you use your common
sense, you should be fine (see p291 for how
to avoid trouble).
There are no guarantees and the situation
can change quickly, so ask the locals when you
arrive about what is safe, then make your own
choice. Walking around Town and Boroko
during daylight hours should be absolutely
fine, but anywhere else you should walk with a
local. Avoid secluded urban areas at any time;
raskols (bandits) are not strictly nocturnal.
The view from Paga Hill in Town is terrific,
but don’t walk up there on your own. Stay
out of the settlements unless you are with one
of the residents (that includes Hanuabada).
Don’t walk around Kila Kila, Sabama or
Six Mile at any time. After dark, don’t walk
lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • S i g h t s 73
PORT MORESBY
THE JACKSON’S AIRPORT JOB
On 19 November 2007 a Tropicair King Air C90 aircraft chartered by Bank South Pacific took off
from Jackson’s Airport in Port Moresby bound for Tabubil. Aboard were two Australian pilots,
AU$2million in cash (salaries for Ok Tedi mine workers)...and two sham security guards. The
impostor security guards pulled their guns on the unsuspecting pilots and ordered them to
make for a disused WWII airstrip on Daugo (Fisherman’s) Island near the mouth of the Port
Moresby harbour.
Three more bandits were waiting to meet the hijackers and they bundled the two pilots into
a boat headed for the mainland. The two muddy but unharmed pilots were later found by police
handcuffed to a tree in a swamp. After an exchange of gunfire four of the five bandits were ar-
rested, one was shot dead and the three boxes of money and several firearms were retrieved.
anywhere. The most important thing is not sands are not full of sunbathers these days.
to make yourself a target or put yourself in Even locals perceive this area as potentially
situations where you are vulnerable. It’s just unsafe. If you do swim here, you’ll attract a
common sense. lot of attention, but the biggest threat may be
the shallow water, thick seaweed and black,
SIGHTS spiny and painful sea urchins – you might
Most of Port Moresby’s few sights are in Town prefer to take to the waters at your hotel
and the government district of Waigani, but swimming pool.
unless you have access to a boat you’ll run out
of interesting things to see within a couple Hanuabada
of days. Past the docks to the north lies Hanuabada
(Map p75), the original Motu village.
Port Moresby City Although it is still built over the sea on stilts,
There is little of historical interest remaining the original wood and thatched houses were
in Port Moresby’s CBD, where office tow- destroyed by fire during WWII. They were
ers and neglect have steadily claimed much rebuilt in all-Australian building materials,
of the area. The oldest building still stand- corrugated iron and fibrocement, but it’s an
ing is the Ela United Church (Map p75; %321 7426; interesting place and the people have retained
Douglas St), opened by the London Missionary many traditional Motu customs.
Society in 1890. St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral You cannot simply wander around the vil-
(Map p75; Musgrave St, Town) is not so old but it does lages if you are not a guest or if you don’t have
have an impressive entrance portal in the style a local guide, but your hotel should be able to
of a Sepik haus tambaran (spirit house). The suggest someone.
Old Parliament Building (Map p75; MacGregor St, Town)
was never an architectural wonder, but its Koki
opening as the House of Assembly in 1964 The picturesque stilt village of Koki, at the
was a significant milestone on PNG’s road to eastern end of Ela Beach, is worth visiting if
independence. Sadly, the shell it has become you can find a local to take you. The best way
symbolises the country’s steady decline in re- to do that is by visiting the neighbouring Koki
cent years; it’s occupied by squatters and buai- Market (off Map p75), one of the oldest and,
sellers. Despite its majestic hilltop position after a vast improvement in security, safest
overlooking Town and the port, there’s noth- markets in the city. Fresh produce and fish
ing that indicates its former significance. straight off the boat are sold here, but even
The harbour headland, Paga Point (Map if you’re not shopping for produce, it’s a col-
p75), is adjacent to Town. It’s worth walk- ourful place to watch grassroots-style PNG
ing to the top of Paga Hill for the fine views commerce. Don’t flash around your jewels or
over the town, the harbour and the encircling expensive cameras if you’re alone, but if you
reefs, but don’t go alone. On the southern side go with a local (someone from your hotel,
of Town is the long, sandy stretch of Ela Beach perhaps) then carrying a camera shouldn’t
(Map p75). The beachfront promenade is be a problem. Always ask before taking some-
a popular walk during the day, though the one’s picture; you’ll find them much more
PORT MORESBY 74 P O R T M O R E S BY • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • S i g h t s 75

PORT MORESBY
0 400 m
VOICES: TONY TORE, THE BLACK SCOTSMAN
TOWN & ELA BEACH (PORT MORESBY CITY) 0 0.2 miles

Hanuabada & other

Tony Tore is 57 and Port Moresby’s only bagpipe-playing busker. He’s a Gulf country man from A B Poreporena villages C D
Malalaua, but he calls himself the Black Scotsman. Two or three times a week he plays in Boroko INFORMATION EATING

Ch
KAEVAGA
ANZ Bank....................................1 B4 Asia Aromas...............................19 B4

am
Square or in Town. Government

pio
Bank South Pacific........................2 B4 Beachside Brasserie..................(see 17) House

n
1 Datanets Internet Café.................3 B4 Cafe.........................................(see 16)

Pd

House
Deloitte Tower.........................(see 22) Daikoku.....................................20 C2

St
Where did you learn to play the bagpipes? In the army. On 20 June 1968, I enlisted with

e
To Airport

bu
Dr Richard Pickworth...................4 B4 Ela Beach Cafe............................21 B5 (9km)

o
the Australian Defence Force’s Northern Command (back when New Guinea was an Australian nt

ed
Fastlink Broadband Internet Café..5 B4 Espresso Bar...............................22 B4
me

n
Ko
French Embassy.........................(see 1) Ichizen.....................................(see 19) rn
colony). I went to Australia in 1971 and 1985 with the PNGDF (Papua New Guinea Defence ve
Japanese Embassy........................ 6 A4 Go

Dr
wy
Force) Pipe Band. Mills Dental Care.....................(see 22) na F
pore
PNG Tourism Promotion HARBOUR Pore
CITY
Authority.............................(see 26) 18
20
Did you see active service in the army? In 1980 I was part of the Kumul Force of the PNGDF Police Station...............................7 B4
Post Office...................................8 A4 Field 2
that went to Vanuatu when Jimmy Stevens led a secessionist movement against Walter Lini’s Steamships Arcade...................(see 19)
government. The Kumuls helped put down the rebellion in two weeks without firing a shot. USA Embassy...............................9 A4
RPYC Marina

ὈὈ
Westpac Bank............................10 B4
I did two tours of duty to Bougainville (during the decade-long civil war), but I felt bad about 2
Westpac Travel........................(see 10)
Sir KONEDOBU
fighting against our PNG brothers. We had to enforce the blockade of the Bougainville Island

Pde
23 Hubert
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Murray
and rebel soldiers were starving in the mountains. Many just walked out of the bush and sur- Ela Beach....................................11 B5 Stadium

on
pi
rendered just to get some food. Conditions on Bougainville were very bad. Things got really Ela United Church......................12 B4

Munid
am
Field 1

La
t

Ch
Old Parliament Building..............13 B4 Cr

w
y
crazy in Bougainville. In 2001 the PNGDF downsized. Some of us are still fighting for our re-

es
a

ubu S
Paga Point.................................14 A5 Fw Av
iat bu

Rd
St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral......15 B5 a
en d St Ka
trenchment payment. or

t
R
ep rt
or Po Av

ὈὈ
SLEEPING P iat Elan
Marine Division St ese
Crowne Plaza.............................16 B4
So these days you play in the streets for people’s loose change? People are poor, they don’t Ela Beach Hotel..........................17 C4
(Naval) Base St
Ai
have much money to give. But they like my music. It’s good – when people listen to my pipes Weigh Inn Hotel........................18 C2 rv
os
they’re not fighting or robbing each other. Moresby used to be a beautiful place when the 3 Av
e
Australians were here (colonial times), but since PNG’s independence we have gone backwards.

Van
Cargo
The politicians are corrupt – they only look after themselves. Today Moresby is not safe, it’s not Terminal

ama
Moresby

Rd
clean. There’s buai (betel nut) everywhere. Cres

e
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
rt

Av
Harbour Container

Dr
Po
Touaguba Hill
Wharf

os
(167m)

ari
Aiv

vet
Do you see many tourists in Port Moresby? Some but not many. Sometimes a busload of

Da
Reserve
Dr

Pandora Cres
o
Japanese tourists will walk through the square here at Boroko and take photos of the bilum Main Wharf Shipping Companies Da
ug

Og
& Wharves Esp
sellers. Then they get on the bus again and are gone. Boroko is the main area for tourists; they

oa
y Reservoir
nle de

d
Sta 26 P

es R
ELA BEACH

St
can buy bilums (string bags) and carvings here. 24 or

Law
4 4 ampion 13 r eg

Hu
1 Ch 19 G
ac St

nte
ὈὈὈὈ
Portlock St
Cuthb
s M
Cre

rS
I’ve often seen soapbox preachers here in Boroko Square. Are you the only busker here? 6 12 3 St

Mus
8 5 St

t
10 27 St Chesterfield

Chalmers

ertson
glas 16

on
28
There are often preachers here in Boroko and they usually preach in Tok Pisin. Sometimes we

grav
u

Durville
o

St
D To Koki

pt
t Le H
Bo S St

am
29 ary Kermadec u

Hunte
nt (600m);

St
ug

e
9 M
get evangelists from America who preach in the square. They’re great performers, they’re well

Br
e Koki Market

He
Cr ainvi 2
17
TOWN

aly
es lle 22 erve Rd (600m)
7 ion Res

r St
dressed and get big crowds. ecreat Pd

Armit
h Rd
Ela Beac la Beach R e

St
25 E

St
Winter 11
Paga Hill Walter Bay
You get big crowds too! Your Scottish bagpipe music seems very exotic here in Port Moresby. St 15

t
ll S
Lookout

me
Yes, but people like my music. One time a drunk man came to watch me play. He had run away SHOPPING

from his wife. He went to the ATM, bought me a Coke and gave me K5. He said, ‘Music blo yu
tanim tingting blo mi (your music changed my mind).’ And he set off to apologise to his wife.
amenable if you buy something. PMVs stop
outside the market.
Parliament Haus
The impressive Parliament Haus (Map p77; %327
7377; Independence Dr, Waigani; h8am-noon & 1-3pm Mon-
Fri, or when parliament is sitting) was officially opened
in 1984 with Prince Charles on hand. The
main building is in the style of a Maprik, or
Sepik-style, haus tambaran, while the at-
tached, circular cafeteria building follows
Highland design principles. The façade is
quite stunning, with a mosaic featuring un-
mistakably PNG motifs. Photographers with
wide-angle lenses will be rewarded with great
shots in the late afternoon light.
The cavernous lobby is entered through
doors whose handles are stylised kundu
drums (an hourglass-shaped drum with
lizard skin). Inside, huge Sepik masks
share space with several display cases full
of fantastic butterflies, including the native
Bra
Beyond Art.................................24 B4
21 Ela Beach Craft Market...............25 B5
5
14 TRANSPORT
ENTERTAINMENT Air Niugini..................................26 B4
Ozzie's Bar...............................(see 17) Airlines PNG...............................27 B4
Pondo Tavern..........................(see 16)
Royal Papua Yacht Club.............23 C2
Qantas.......................................28
Town PMV Stop........................29
A4
B4
Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing (the world’s Boroko costs about K15 or K20 from Town.
largest with a 30cm wingspan) beetles and Alternatively, take a PMV along Waigani
some very large stick insects. The display Dr, get out at the white, empty Pineapple
cases are easy to miss; they’re under the Building, and walk about 2km northeast.
stairs. Photography inside Parliament Haus
is forbidden. National Museum
It’s possible to visit the chamber and wit- All the exhibits at the museum (Map p77;
ness parliament when it’s sitting. A taxi from Independence Dr, Waigani; admission K12; h8.30am-3.30pm
 ὈὈ
PORT MORESBY 76 P O R T M O R E S BY • • A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • B o r o k o & W a i g a n i 77

PORT MORESBY
Mon-Fri, 1-3.30pm Sun), just beyond Parliament named by Captain Moresby after his ship, 0 800 m
Haus, sit under a fine film of dust. But you HMS Basilisk. The SS Pruth was wrecked on BOROKO & WAIGANI 0 0.5 miles

can happily spend an hour or so looking at the
displays that cover the geography, fauna, cul-
ture, ethnography and history of PNG. There
are superb examples of masks, shields and
totems, a magnificent Milne Bay outrigger
ὈὈ
nearby Nateara Reef (Map pp70–1M027) in 1924, A B
21
C D
19
and there’s the beautiful Sinasi Reef (Map Golf
ay INFORMATION
pp70–1M028) outside the passage and the adjoin- ura
W Course
ANZ Bank....................................1 C5
Ko
ing Daugo Island (Map pp70–1M029), also known as 20
Australian High Commission.........2 B2
Bank South Pacific ......................3 C6
1
Fisherman’s Island, which has lovely stretches Boroko Police Station...................4 C5

s
Magani Cre
Independence Dr
canoe decorated in cowrie shells, and a display of white-sand beaches. Boroko Post Office.......................5 C6
British High Commission..............6 C2
12
showing how bilums are made. Photography 35 Datec...........................................7 B3

Kum
ACTIVITIES

Circuit
Dove Travel.................................8 C6
is not allowed, but you can take pictures of

ul
10 Indonesian Embassy ....................9 C2
the few birds, lizards and snakes living in The diving around Port Moresby is excellent.

Ave
Cricket 9 Kokoda Track Authority...........(see 39)
Ground Somare Korokist St

Waigani
National Library & Archives.........10 B1

Way
the courtyard. Bootless Bay has world-class diving over reefs Kekeke St National Mapping Bureau...........11 B2
11

Kitogara St
and WWII wreckage. Loloata Island (p90) is 6 New Zealand High Commission..12 C1

Nilkare Ave
n
esia
National Botanic Gardens Paradise Private Clinic................13 C6

Dr
n GORDON
a popular holiday spot for divers. The only M ela
NORTH Port Moresby General Hospital..14 C6

ὈὈ
At the northern end of Waigani Dr, just be- dive operator in Moresby itself is the Dive 2
Pineapple
Building ise
Dr
2
Port Moresby Medical Centre.... 15 D6
Gu
Solomon Islands High
yond the University of Papua New Guinea, Centre (Map pp70-1; %323 1355; www.divecentre.com hn
Ugava St
Commission...........................16 B4
Jo Sandpiper Rd
the National Botanic Gardens (Map pp70-1; %326 .pg; poolside at Airways Hotel & Apartments, Seven Mile). It Sir Westpac Bank............................17 C5

Godwit St
Wa
0248; www.ncbg.org.pg; Waigani Dr, Waigani; adult/child/ offers full PADI courses (K1175), equipment,

rds
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Wo
student/family K8/3/5/10; h9am-4pm) are an island air, and a wide range of diving and snorkelling St John Guise od Ecotrourism Melanesia...............18 B4

Strip
WAIGANI Stadium coc
k Rd National Museum.......................19 B1
of calm and beauty in the midst of an other- tours. A two-dive outing including all gear 32
Niugini Holidays.......................(see 24)
wise lacklustre city. Don’t miss them! There costs K275. Very professional. Paradise Adventure Tours........(see 23)

ὈὈ
26 37 t Parliament Haus.........................20 C1
Gord cui
is more than 2km of boardwalk threading A round at the well-managed Port Moresby Rd
on Cir Port Moresby Golf Club..............21 C1
under and through the jungle canopy, well- eron
Golf Club (Map p77; %325 5367; Waigani) costs K110,

a Fwy
Cam

Henao Dr
Ken
maintained lawns and gardens displaying plus K20 to hire clubs. ned

Henao Dr
Poreporen
3 33 y R

r
d

Hub
Dr land
both local and exotic plant species, and prob- Nua

Kanaga St
na R

Is
24 d

ert M
ably the best collection of native and hybrid TOURS 7
GORDON
Rd
orchids in PNG. There are also some excel-

urr
For organised tours that walk the Kokoda

W
34 e
rah

aig

ay H
Medaha
Va

Rd
lent wildlife displays, such as tree kangaroos, Track see p93. The companies listed here also

an

Ag
27

ara
i D
St

wy
St

Tam
hornbills, cassowaries, a giant python, and a offer Kokoda trekking, but they do Moresby-

Rd
r
23

Um
29
Mo

gila
large aviary that houses parrots and birds of based day tours also. Ahuia St St re

Magi
Soare St a-T

Ma
ob

Rd

St
paradise (the only chance most visitors get Ecotourism Melanesia (Map p77; %323 4518; www HOHOLA 16
18 oR
d

rds

Toi
to see them). 41

St
.em.com.pg; IEPNG House, Gordons) This is the best of the St

Wa
ui Goroa St

Munahu St
n wy

Morata St
locally owned tour operators (but by no means the cheap- Ku

Bo
F
4 na

ro
Koani St SLEEPING
Islands, Beaches & Reefs re

ko
31
est). They’ll customise tours to suit your needs. e po Comfort Inn...............................22 C6

Dr
Por
The wreck of the Burns Philp cargo ship Niugini Holidays (Map p77; %323 6486; www.ng Kaem
e ills
Gabaka St Hideaway Hotel.........................23
Holiday Inn................................24
D4
A3
MV MacDhui (Map pp701M02) can be seen just hols.com; Holiday Inn, Islander Dr, Hohola) Several pricey nH

breaking the surface in Moresby Harbour,
off Hanuabada. It was sunk by Japanese air-
craft in the early days of WWII. Its mast now
St
EATING rd
e Jessie Wyatt House.................... 25 C6
Ga r
but professional day trips, including three-hour tours of Ang’s Restaurant....................... 31 C4 D
Lamana Hotel............................26
Magila Motel.............................27
A3
D3
Cellar.......................................(see 30)
Port Moresby Town (per person K135), full-day Town and Gordons Market.........................32 C3 Mapang Missionary Home.........28 C6
Ponderosa Family Hotel.............29 C4
Varirata National Park tours (K255) and full-day Taste of Grand Palace..............................33 B3
Shady Rest Hotel....................... 30 C6

W
Jepello.......................................34 A3
stands in front of the Royal Papua Yacht Club Kokoda Track tours (K745). The price per person falls as the

aig
Mr B Coffee Shop....................(see 39)

an
(Map p75). group size increases. Restaurant 168...........................35 A1

i D
Roundhouse Restaurant.............36 C5

r
Many expats have boats and the yacht club Cre
s

Or
5 Spirit Room..............................(see 23)

Sto
gi

oro
FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Ha
is busy on weekends. If you play your charm Yun Sue Restaurant...................37 A3 Le

res

gw

Va

Cres
e
Av

iva
a
cards right, you might get asked out for the In early August the capital hosts the

Rd
ENTERTAINMENT Ok St

iA
r St
na

uD
MURRAY ari

Bo
ki

v
day. Manubada (Local) Island (Map pp70–1M024) is Gold Club................................(see 26) 1 St e

ga
International Orchid Spectacular in the grounds
ro
St

eb

ro
BARRACKS Tur

An
To
b

ka
Mustang Sally’s........................(see 30) um au
ia

uS 36 l
rd

P
popular for weekend beach trips, but carry of Parliament Haus (p74). Inu K

Dr
t nu
Go

s 17
39 4 Hu
SHOPPING
your own water and sun protection because

Av
Port Moresby’s big event is the three-day 42 3 5 15 St

e
Boroko 'World Trade Centre' 40

Mavaru
there is no shade. The Bootless Bay area (Map Hiri Moale Festival, celebrated around September Market.................................. 38 C6 y
Hw Reke
St
Nita St
38
Brian Bell Plaza...........................39 C5 y
pp70–1M025; southeast of Port Moresby) and the 16 to coincide with Independence Day cel- Handicrafts Market....................40 C6 M
ur
ra Lah
Tabari Pl
ara Ave 8
Gere Gere Av
W rt 22
other islands around the harbour are also ebrations. Motu people race giant canoes PNG Arts....................................41 B4 a
Rd rds Hu
be 28
ve
Diho A

Loku
popular; see p90. and celebrate the shift in tradewinds that trad- BOROKO

Bis
6 TRANSPORT

ini
a Av
Ta

Anga
There are many interesting places within itionally brought traders home from the Gulf Gordons Market PMV Stop......(see 32) ura

Pd
ma

e
Manu Autoport

St
u D
easy reach if you have access to a boat. Basilisk region where they exchanged earth-fired pots (Boroko PMV Stop)................42 C6
Rd 30
13 ad
a

Bava
ab

r
Passage (Map pp70–1M026) is the deep, narrow for food. There’s a Miss Hiri Queen contest. Thrifty......................................(see 26)
25
ur ve
La A
entrance to the Port Moresby harbour The festival is held at Ela Beach. BADILLI 14
To Port Moresby
Grammar School
PORT MORESBY 78 P O R T M O R E S BY • • S l e e p i m g
SLEEPING
Places to stay are scattered all over Port
Moresby and are collectively the country’s
most expensive. There are places at Seven Mile
near the airport, in Six Mile, Boroko, Hohola
(sometimes called Waigani) and Town, with
a few others scattered in between. Boroko is
really the centre of activity in Port Moresby
and the most convenient location as almost
all PMV routes stop at its big bus stop on the
Hubert Murray Hwy, one of only two routes
into Town. All midrange and top-end places
have a free airport shuttle. Prices listed here
are inclusive of VAT.
For more on accommodation, see p282.
Budget
Magila Motel (Map p77; %325 0536; www.magila
.com.pg; Magila St, Six Mile; ‘backpacker’ s/d K50/75, d
K130-150;a) This clean place has rooms with
private bathroom and satellite TV. The at-
tached Magila Gorilla Club can be rowdy (and
rough!) until late, so ask for a room at the
far end. It’s in a bad neighbourhood, but it’s
fair value.
Jessie Wyatt House (Map p77; %325 3646; Taurama
Rd, Boroko; s/tw per person K70/60) Run by the Country
Women’s Association, this churchy place is
clean, quiet and homely with a communal
kitchen, free tea and coffee, and a fridge in
each room. It’s patronised mostly by Papua
New Guineans and it’s a good place to meet
locals. The rooms are few and in high demand.
Check in between 8am and 4pm Monday to
Friday and 8am and noon Saturday only.
oMapang Missionary Home (Map p77; %325
5251; mapang@daltron.com.pg; Lahara Ave, Boroko; dm/s/d incl
breakfast K70/110/140; ai) Mapang, in central
Boroko, is clean as a whistle and run by an
affable Kiwi missionary couple – it’s the best
budget option in Moresby. It has a communal
lounge, kitchen and library, and comes with
complimentary broadband internet wired to
each room so you can plug in your laptop.
With a couple of family rooms, Mapang caters
mostly to church workers and is often full so
book well ahead. The interior is smoke-free and
the whole premises is an alcohol-free zone, but
there are no curfews and, provided you’re quiet
and respectful, they don’t mind what you get
up to offsite. Where do I sign?
Midrange
Ponderosa Family Hotel (Map p77; %323 4888; Nuana
Rd, Gordons; d/f K115/175). This was once an Air
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Niugini residence. It’s simple, clean and
friendly, and in a quiet area.
Weigh Inn Hotel (Map p75; %321 7777; theweigh
inn@global.net.pg; Poreporena Fwy; r K150-180; a )
This place has good-value rooms with
TV, fridge and phone, behind a popular
poker-machine palace.
oComfort Inn (Map p77; %325 5091; comfort
inn@daltron.com.pg; Mairi Pl, Boroko; d incl breakfast K176-
220, apt K340-395; as) In a quiet location two
minutes’ walk from central Boroko, and with
terrific friendly service and comfortable if
rather unloved rooms, this is the best-value
midrange option in the city. The garden and
pool are a quiet sanctuary from Moresby’s
hustle and bustle, and the meals (lunch and
dinner K30) aren’t bad. It’s unlicensed, but
you can stow your own in the room fridges.
This inn has none of the pretensions of the
big hotels, and with a lick of paint (and a bar
and internet café), Comfort Inn would be a
classic backpacker haven.
Hideaway Hotel (Map p77; %323 6888; www.accom
modationpng.com.pg; Tamara Rd, Six Mile; d K175-280, ste
K330; as) This place is in Six Mile, which
is a dodgy neighbourhood, but otherwise
it’s great value. The compact but spotless
standard rooms and vast suites are comfort-
able and the hotel facilities are excellent. The
hotel minibus will chauffer you wherever you
want to go, but it’s not a safe area to wan-
der around alone. The attached Spirit Room
(meals K35; open 6am to 10pm) restaurant is
consistently good.
Shady Rest Hotel (Map p77; %323 0000; www.shady
rest.com.pg; Taurama Rd, Boroko; d K190-210; a) This
has bars, good restaurants (see opposite) and
decent rooms; it’s a solid option. It also offers
‘day use’ rates which might mean that some
of the patrons are there to share a good time,
not a long time.
Lamana Hotel (Map p77; %323 2333; www.lamana
hotel.com.pg; off Waigani Dr, Hohola; d K275-320, apt K310;
a) The rooms here are large and comfort-
able, and the service is good. If nightclubbing
is your thing, then the attached Gold Club
(p81) will be an attraction. The Palazzo res-
taurant is good too.
Gateway Hotel (Map pp70-1; %325 3855; www
.coralseahotels.com.pg; Morea-Tobo Rd, Seven Mile; d 280-455,
apt K505; as) Located one minute’s drive
from the airport, this member of the Coral
Sea chain is a Moresby institution, with com-
fortable if slightly worn rooms, and there are
plenty of facilities. There are a couple of bars
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
and restaurants; the Rattle ‘n’ Hum pizzeria
downstairs serves passable pizzas to a mixed
local crowd.
Ela Beach Hotel (Map p77; %321 2100; www.coral
seahotels.com.pg; Ela Beach Rd, Ela Beach; d K314-347, apt
from K347; as) Also operated by the Coral
Sea group, this hotel has recently had a nice
refit, but aside from the prime beachfront lo-
cation, the rooms are overpriced. Its redeem-
ing features include the excellent Beachside
Brasserie restaurant and Ozzie’s Bar (p81),
one of Moresby’s best live-music venues.
Top End
All rooms in this bracket come with satellite
TV and minibar. Reception is open 24 hours
and in-room internet access can be arranged
for about K80 for 10 hours, or you can use the
hotel business centres for between K30 and
K40 per hour. Moresby’s deluxe hotels are
mostly patronised by visiting business people
and are expensive in anyone’s language. It’s
worth asking for any sort of corporate dis-
count you can think of.
Airways Hotel & Apartments (Map pp70-1; %324
5200; www.airways.com.pg; Jackson’s Pde, Seven Mile; r K577-
787, ste K1650; ais) Airways is the pick of
the top-end hotels, pitching itself as the per-
fect place for the visitor who wants nothing to
do with Port Moresby. It has spectacular views
over the airport and the poolside lounge-and-
bar area is lovely. Airways offers luxury rooms
(ranging from standard rooms through to
suites) and classy amenities two minutes from
the airport. There are two restaurants, the
wonderful KC’s Deli (open 7am to 7pm) and
bars including Balus Casino Bar, with pool
tables and live entertainment, and the Dakota
Lounge, inside an old DC-3. Even if you’re not
staying at the Airways, it’s worth dropping by
for lunch or a drink.
Holiday Inn (Map p77; %303 2000; www.holiday
inn.com.au; Islander Dr, Hohola; r K605-770, ste K1120;
ais) This place is comfortable enough
with all the facilities you’d expect from an
international hotel, but it’s in a bad area and
not worth the price tag.
Crowne Plaza (Map p75; %309 3000; www.crowne
plaza.com; cnr Douglas & Hunter Sts, Town; r K649-930;
ais) This is right in the heart of Town
and has commanding views from its nine
floors of neatly fitted-out rooms. The standard
rooms are not all that big, but you could throw
a party in the executive suites and apartments,
which come with free use of the club lounge.
P O R T M O R E S BY • • E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g 79
PORT MORESBY
There is wi-fi access throughout the build-
ing, restaurants, bars, a café and the Pondo
Tavern nightclub.
EATING & DRINKING
Moresby’s restaurant scene has come a long
way in recent years. After a few weeks in the
provinces eating kaukau (sweet potato), rice
and tinpis (tinned fish), travellers will find
the Moresby dining options are a blessing.
There are some excellent restaurants in Port
Moresby, but little to fill the void between kai
bars (takeaway food bars) and pricey restau-
rants. There are a few coffee shops that prepare
fresh sandwiches and light meals, but, like the
kai bars, they’re closed by night-time so the
hotels and restaurants are the only option
for an evening meal. You can indulge your
urge for fresh fish and seafood at Moresby’s
hotels and restaurants, and there are many
good Asian restaurants that cater to the large
Asian expat community.
Beer (bia) is ubiquitous and SP brews,
Export, Ice and Brown, are very good.
However, wine, imported from Australia, is
much less common and you’ll pay at least K45
for the cheapest bottle.
Restaurants
Roundhouse Restaurant (Map p77; %325 8899; Okari
St, Boroko; meals K18-35; h10am-2pm & 5-10pm; a)
For authentic Chinese food, this is pretty
good and the lunchtime deals (K15) are
excellent value. The Sunday dim sum (yum
cha) is popular.
Port Moresby Golf Club (Map p77; %325 1868;
Waigani Dr, Waigani; meals K25-40; a) Upstairs is
the Restaurant 168 where some interesting
Malay and Indian dishes are served – better
than the dull surroundings might suggest.
Jepello (Map p77; %323 6800; Inki St, Hohola; meals
K25-50; h 10am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; a ) Just
off Waigani Dr, behind the Interoil Service
Station in another dodgy area, is Jepello,
Moresby’s best Italian restaurant. The fresh
pastas and wood-fired pizzas are good, but
leave room for the homemade gelato.
Grand Palace (Map p77; %311 2826; RH Hypermart
Bldg, Kennedy Rd, Gordons; meals K25-70; h11am-2pm &
6-10pm; a) This is the top spot for Chinese
cuisine. Try the yum cha or the beautifully
presented steamed whole coral trout.
Daikoku (Map p75; %321 0255; Andersons Foodland
Bldg, Harbour City; meals K25-90; h10am-10pm; a) In
a feed-off between Ichizen and Daikoku, we
PORT MORESBY 80 P O R T M O R E S BY • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t
narrowly chose this to be the best Japanese
restaurant in Moresby – outstanding! The
sushi, sashimi and other Japanese favourites
are very good. At dinner, chefs will prepare
your meal on a hotplate at your table with
great skill and showmanship. Lunchtime
bento boxes cost K23.
Ang’s Restaurant (Map p77; %323 0863; Munahu St,
Gordons; meals K30-50; h7.30am-10pm; a) Ang’s is
locked up like Fort Knox; this part of Gordons
is unsavoury after dark. But it’s worth the
trip for excellent Chinese food at reasonable
prices. The tôm yam soup is just right.
Ichizen (Map p75; %320 3000; 1st fl, Steamships Plaza,
Champion Pde, Town; meals K30-75; h11.30am-2.30pm &
5.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun; a) The
teppanyaki, sushi and sashimi are expertly
prepared, and artfully arrayed on the plate. A
delicious lunchtime bento box costs K26.
Rattle ‘n’ Hum Pizzeria (Map pp70-1; %327 8162;
Morea-Tobo Rd, Seven Mile; meals K35; a) This serves
sloppy pizzas in a convivial, family-friendly
atmosphere.
oAsia Aromas (Map p75; %321 4780; Ground fl,
Steamships Plaza, Champion Pde, Town; meals K35-60;
h8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm
Sat, 9.30am-2.30pm Sun; a) The Chinese and
Thai dishes and friendly service here are so
good it’s worth booking ahead to secure an
evening table. The Thai prawns with lemon-
grass and chilli are fantastic. This place is
popular with the Moresby’s glitterati, cabinet
ministers, expats and the well-to-do, so you
never know who’ll you will be sitting next
to. Refreshingly, the prices are more sweet
than sour.
Beachside Brasserie (Map p75; %321 2100; Ela Beach
Rd, Ela Beach; meals K35-60; h6.30am-10.30pm; a) The
pleasant brasserie in Ela Beach Hotel (p79)
is a good choice for moderately priced food.
The pizzas (K25 to K49) are the best in town.
They serve good seafood and a whopping
500g steak for K60.
Cellar (Map p77; %323 0000; Taurama Rd, Boroko;
meals K45-60; h6am-10pm; a) This tastefully
decorated, softly lit place at the Shady Rest
Hotel serves a good mix of dishes including
steak (K52), fish (K40), oysters (K40) and
several Indian dishes. There’s a wide selection
of good wine.
If you’re needing a caffeine fix, the follow-
ing coffee shops are where to go:
Cafe (Map p75; %309 3000; Crowne Plaza Hotel, cnr
Douglas & Hunter Sts, Town; h6.30am-10pm; a) The
lunchtime buffet is good but it’s not cheap.
lonelyplanet.com
Espresso Bar (Map p75; %321 6600; Ground fl,
Deloitte Tower, Douglas St, Town; h7.30am-5pm Mon-
Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat; a) This place provides good coffee
and light meals.
Mr B Coffee Shop (Map p77M0247; %325 5411; 1st fl, Brian
Bell Plaza, Boroko; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat;
a) Quiet and cool, this is a refuge from the filth and
craziness of the Boroko streets. Freshly made sandwiches,
pastries, light meals and good Goroka coffee.
Quick Eats
There are all manner of kai bars around,
with Boroko being the kai capital. The better
options are listed here.
Ela Beach Cafe (Map p75; %685 3918; Bramell St, Ela
Beach; meals K9-15; h8am-11.30pm) At the west end
of Ela Beach, this rustic-looking eatery has coffee, beer and
lunches of simple kai.
Yun Sue Restaurant (Map p77; %325 6011; off
Waigani Dr, Waigani; meals K10) Serves good, cheap and
large Chinese lunches.
Self-Catering
Koki Market (off Map pp70–1M024A) and the
Boroko ‘World Trade Centre’ market (Map
p77) behind the post office are the places to
head for a good range of fruit and veg, plus
fresh seafood. The bustling Gordons Market
(Map p77), one of the largest in the coun-
try, has an excellent selection of vegetables
and fruit.
There are numerous supermarkets around
Port Moresby and they’re all well stocked.
ENTERTAINMENT
After the 1994 volcanic eruptions in Rabaul,
PNG’s thriving music industry relocated to
Port Moresby. There are some excellent musi-
cians gigging in the capital; some are gradu-
ates of the University of PNG’s music school.
While it’s not New York City, Port Moresby
has a few live-music venues and some discos
and nightclubs. The Post Courier publishes
the ‘What’s On’ entertainment guide on
Wednesday. What little live music there is in
Port Moresby will be found in a nightclub or
the yacht club.
Royal Papua Yacht Club (Map p75; %321 1700;
Poreporena Fwy; a) This large airy place is the
last bastion of post-colonial white elitism – you
won’t see any grassroots here. Pity because it’s
a nice place with a pleasant deck for sitting,
drinking cold beer and watching the harbour.
The food is good and reasonably priced (K22
to K40), and the club is decorated with lots
lonelyplanet.com
of interesting WWII photos and maritime
memorabilia. There’s sometimes live music,
but otherwise it’s a steady diet of easy-listen-
ing ‘yacht rock’ through the speakers, such as
Eagles, Toto, Christopher Cross. You’re sup-
posed to have a member sign you in, but a little
charm (and white skin) should see you in.
Gold Club (Map p77; %323 2333; Lamana Hotel; off
Waigani Dr, Hohola; h11am-5am) This club has live
music a couple of nights a week, but otherwise
it’s given over to DJs and dancing. The open-
air dance floor surrounded by layers of bars
gives the impression that this could, actually,
be in New York City. The music is good and
there’s no riff-raff. A top spot.
Ozzie’s Bar (Map p75; %321 2100; Ela Beach Hotel, Ela
Beach; h9am-2am) This has live music Thursday,
Friday and Saturday nights, and it’s a laid-
back and unprepossessing place where you
can mix it with the locals who love to dance.
Pondo Tavern (Map p75; %309 3000; cnr Douglas
& Hunter Sts, Town; h11am-4.30am) Underneath
the Crowne Plaza Hotel; more milling
than dancing.
Mustang Sally’s (Map p77; %323 0000; Taurama Rd,
Boroko; h9am-2am) Attached to the Shady Rest
Hotel (p78), this offers a more ‘genuine’ PNG
experience – raw and spirited. If you’re of-
fended by loud music, the odd swinging pool
cue or women of the night, best to steer clear.
SHOPPING
Milan, Paris, New York City…Port Moresby?
Ah, no. There are no designer shoes, very lit-
tle clothing, and apart from betel nut and its
condiments, there’s not much to buy. Artisans
used to sell carvings and paintings outside
the big hotels, but they’ve all been shooed
away. Across the road from the Gateway
Hotel (p78) in Six Mile and the Holiday Inn
(p79) in Hohola there are often art displays;
mostly contemporary paintings. The bigger
hotels have gift shops which stock some nice
pieces, but we prefer to buy directly from the
makers themselves.
Look out for paintings by John and Chris
Kauage, sons of the late Mathias Kauage,
PNG’s most famous artist (see p45), as well as
works by John Siune – all highly collectable.
Handicrafts Market (Map p77; Tabari Pl, Boroko;
h8am-5pm) Boroko’s dusty central square is
the best place to buy bilums, Highland hats,
carvings, kina-shell breast plates, shell jewel-
lery and the like. Moresby’s sellers are used to
the ways of tourists and will happily engage in
P O R T M O R E S BY • • S h o p p i n g 81
PORT MORESBY
some friendly negotiation, but protracted hag-
gling is considered rude. See p299 for more
on bargaining.
Ela Beach Craft Market (Map p75; %325 2838; Ela
Beach International School, Ela Beach Rd, Ela Beach; h7am-
noon last Saturday of every month) This is the best mar-
ket in PNG, with all the paintings, carvings,
baskets, shells and weavings you can poke a
koteka (penis gourd) at. Barbecued food and
traditional dancers (about 10am) contribute
to the carnival atmosphere.
Port Moresby Grammar School Craft Market (off
Map p77; %323 6577; Leander St; h8am-noon 2nd
Saturday of every month) Another monthly event
with good crowds and a party atmosphere.
PNG Arts (Map p77; %325 3976; Poreporena Fwy,
Gordons; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) The
long-running PNG Arts warehouse has a huge
collection of wares from all over the country.
The prices are reasonable, credit cards are
accepted and freight and documentation can
be organised.
Beyond Art (Map p75; %320 2257; Champion Pde,
Town; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
In Town, Beyond Art is small and pricy.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Flights link Port Moresby to virtually every-
where in PNG and anywhere Air Niugini flies
internationally (see p306). For routes and
prices, see p313. Just before our visit, third-
string domestic carrier Airlink, which serviced
many small and remote airstrips, went broke –
leaving a significant hole in the domestic air-
travel scene. Many of Airlink’s routes were
marginally profitable anyway, so it remains
to be seen if another flyer takes them up. Port
Moresby is also home to many charter fixed-
wing and helicopter flyers – if you have the cash
there’s nowhere you can’t get to.
Some airline offices in Port Moresby:
Air Niugini (Map p75; %327 3444; www.airniugini
.com.pg; Ground fl, MMI House, Champion Pde, Town)
Airlines PNG (Map p75; %325 0555; www.apng.com;
1st fl, Pacific Place, Musgrave St, Town)
MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship; Map p75; %325
2668; www.maf.org.au; General Aviation section, Jackson’s
International Airport)
Qantas (Map p75; %321 1200; www.qantas.com.au;
Cuthbertson St, Town)
Boat
There are no regular passenger boats sailing
out of Port Moresby. Many freighters do have
PORT MORESBY 82 P O R T M O R E S BY • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d
passenger facilities, but none of the shipping
companies is currently officially allowing
passengers. The situation seems to change
frequently so asking around at the wharves
might get you a berth. If you want to go to
the Gulf, ask around the smaller boats at the
jetties north of the main wharf. Heading east
towards Milne Bay you, could go to Kupiano
(Map pp86–7M0259) and look for a small boat or
canoe. A series of hops along the south coast
could, after nights in villages and days waiting
under palm trees, get you to Alotau (p109).
Car
You can’t really drive anywhere else from Port
Moresby (except Kerema). There are several
companies renting cars and 4WDs in Port
Moresby. See below for details.
PMV
Rural PMVs leave from Gordons Market
(Map p77) and head west as far as Kerema
(K40, five hours) and east along the Magi
Hwy. PMVs also leave here for Bomana War
Cemetery (opposite; bus 16) and destinations
along the Sogeri Rd.
GETTING AROUND
To/From the Airport
The hotel minibus is the easiest way to get
between the airport and where you’re stay-
ing. All but the smallest establishments have
one and if you contact them ahead, or call
from the airport, you’ll soon have a free
ride. In the international terminal arrivals
hall, go into the NCD Tourist Office where
you can use the phone for free. In the do-
mestic terminal, buy a phonecard from the
shop beside the café.
Taxis wait outside both terminals and, un-
less you spot a Scarlet Taxi (%323 4266), some of
which have meters (that actually work), you’ll
need to negotiate the fare before you leave. A
taxi to Waigani or Boroko should cost K20,
and to Town it’s about K30. The third op-
tion is to take a PMV, but you need to be
very confident or desperately short of cash,
or both, to do this if you don’t know the city.
PMVs leave from about 50m east of the in-
ternational terminal and cost K0.70. PMV 10
takes you to Town via Four Mile (Boroko).
Car & 4WD
The airport is full of companies renting cars
and 4WDs, and the major names also have
lonelyplanet.com
offices in several top-end hotels. Prices start
at around K175 per day and K0.80 per km
for a manual Mitsubishi Lancer (plus insur-
ance at K50 per day for a collision damage
waiver excess of K2000). Port Moresby can
be a confusing place to navigate at first, so be
sure to have a map and take out full insurance.
Police check points are common after dark
but shouldn’t be a problem if you have your
license. For more information, see p317.
Some rental companies and their central
reservation numbers:
Avis (Map pp70-1; %324 9400; www.avis.com.pg)
Offices at the airport (domestic and international terminals).
Friendly Car Hire (%683 6238) Utikas Pok runs this
small operation – much cheaper than the big boys – and
he’ll deliver a car to you.
Hertz (Map pp70-1; %302 6822; sales@leasemaster
.com.pg) Desks at the airport and Gateway Hotel.
Thrifty (Map p77; %325 5550) Offices at the airport,
Airways Hotel & Apartments and Lamana Hotel.
PMV
Port Moresby has an efficient PMV (public
motor vehicle) service, though you’ll see very
few white faces in the windows. Most expats
will advise against using PMVs, but they’re
quite safe provided you stick to certain routes
and be careful about where you disembark.
PMVs run frequently from about 6am to 6pm
but stop suddenly at nightfall; be careful not
to be caught out. The flat fare is K0.70 for any
trip around Moresby, near or far. The main
interchange point is Manu Autoport (Map
p77) in Boroko; look for the pedestrian over-
pass and crowds of people. In Town, the main
stop is on Douglas St, and at Gordons it’s near
Gordons Market. PMVs get crowded at peak
hours and especially on Friday evening.
PMVs run set routes and have route num-
bers (and sometimes the destination itself)
painted on the front. They go both ways.
Some useful routes include the following:
Route 4 From Hanuabada, through Town, Koki and
Boroko to Gordons Market.
Route 7 From Gerehu, past Waigani, Gordons and Erima
to Seven Mile.
Route 9 From Gerehu and Waigani to Four Mile/Boroko,
East Boroko and then to Three Mile (this is the bus to get
from Boroko to UPNG & the Botanical Gardens).
Route 10 From Hanuabada to Town, Badilly, Sabama,
Manu, Three Mile, Four Mile/Boroko (Jessie Wyatt House;
past the hospital and the CWA Hostel), and on to the
airport at Seven Mile. Avoid getting on or off in the Kila
Kila and Sabama areas, which are relatively unsafe.
lonelyplanet.com
Route 11 From Town to Two Mile Hill, Boroko, Waigani
(not all stop at the government offices) and Morata.
Route 12 From Gerehu to Waigani, Hohola, Three Mile
and Manu.
Route 15 From Tokarara to the government buildings in
Waigani, Gordons, Erema, Seven Mile, Six Mile, Five Mile
and Four Mile/Boroko to Hohola.
Route16 From Gordons Market out to Bomana Prison,
past the War Cemetery.
Route 17 From Gordons, Four Mile/Boroko, Three Mile,
Sabama to Bari.
For more information on PMVs, see p318.
Taxi
Port Moresby has no shortage of taxis, and
you’ll usually be able to find one outside a
hotel or the airport, and in Boroko. Sample
fares include: Town to Boroko, K20; Town
to Waigani, K20; Town to the airport, K30.
Mosbi’s taxis are in poor repair, some are
unlicensed and frequent roadside police
checks are the bane of drivers’ lives. Petrol
is expensive and many taxi drivers barely
eke out a living.
The growing number of Scarlet Taxis (%323
4266) offer a superior alternative. They’re
clean, relatively new taxis with meters
(though these often don’t work), radios and
drivers in ironed shirts. But the clincher:
betel nut and smoking are banned.
AROUND PORT MORESBY
Although Port Moresby is also the capi-
tal of Central Province, it sits within the
National Capital District (NCD). Loloata
Island (see p90) is outside the NCD off the
Magi Highway in Central Province proper,
but it’s only about 20km from Port Moresby
and offers a great weekend escape from the
dusty capital.
SOGERI ROAD
There are some interesting areas near Port
Moresby along or just off the Sogeri Rd,
which veers to the right (east) off the Hubert
Murray Hwy a couple of kilometres past the
airport. Other than Sunday you’ll likely be
the only people around. It’s best to travel
with a local out on the Sogeri Rd – there
have been occasional incidents – but when
we were there the road gangs were upgrad-
ing the road that curls up Mt Erima at
A R O U N D P O R T M O R E S BY • • S o g e r i R o a d 83
PORT MORESBY
Varirata National Park and there was cer-
tainly no sign of trouble.
It’s only 46km to Sogeri but there is enough
to see to make it a full-day trip. The first stop
is the large and carefully tended Bomana War
Cemetery (Map pp70-1; %328 1536; h8am-4pm),
where 4000 PNG and Australian WWII
soldiers are buried; American soldiers who
died in PNG were generally shipped home
for burial. It’s a serene yet sobering place.
PMV 16 from Gordons Market (Map p77)
runs past the gate.
A few kilometres past the cemetery, the
road winds up the impressive Laloki River gorge
and you’re soon more than 600m above sea
level. There are several viewing points looking
into the gorge and up to the Rouna Falls and
power station. Just beyond is a small store
and a track leading to the rundown Kokoda
Trail Motel (p84).
Right after the store is the turn-off to
Varirata National Park (%325 0195/9340; admission
K5 if there’s anyone staffing the gate) which, at 1000
hectares and over 800m high, is the highlight
of the Sogeri Rd. It’s 8km from the turn-off
and you’ll find six clearly marked walking
trails ranging from 45 minutes to three hours
long, and some excellent lookouts back to Port
Moresby and the coast. The bird-watching
here can be rewarding, with an array of king-
fishers and Raggiana birds of paradise as high-
lights. It’s possible to camp here, but unless
you’re in a large group, it’s potentially unsafe.
The best place is on the grass outside the der-
elict huts. There are pit toilets. Speak to the
ranger-in-charge (if you can find him!).
A few kilometres down the dreadful Kokoda
Track road (barely navigable in a 2WD in the
dry season only) is a turn-off left (west) back
towards Port Moresby. This is the Hombrum
Bluff road that runs along the top of the Laloki
River canyon wall. It leads to Hombrum Bluff
Lookout that rises 1300m and was used as a
retreat for the military brass during WWII.
Below is Seventeen Mile which was an impor-
tant base camp for more than 400 soldiers.
Back on the Kokoda Track road you can
drive past McDonald’s Corner where there’s a small
memorial that marks the start of the Kokoda
Track. It was here that Australian WWII sol-
diers disembarked their trucks and began the
long muddy march. Later the rough road was
pushed further through to Owers’ Corner, and
you can drive here too…if your poor car hasn’t
suffered enough! Be careful out here. There are
 © Lonely Planet Publications
PORT MORESBY 84 A R O U N D P O R T M O R E S BY • • H i r i t a n o H i g h w a y Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

no road signs so ask villagers, and if it rains
you’ll be stuck good and proper.
There’s nothing worth stopping in Sogeri
for, but a couple of kilometres along another
diabolical dirt road the Crystal Rapids (admission
per vehicle K7) make a pleasant swimming and
picnic spot.
Sleeping & Eating
Kokoda Trail Motel (%325 4403; fax 325 3322; r K65)
Cheap, dirty and almost derelict, and if you
don’t book ahead, there’ll be no food. Only if
you’re desperate.
Bluff Inn Motel (%328 1223; fax 328 1311; Sogeri Rd;
r K165; a) This sprawling motel, by the river at
Seventeen Mile, is the only worthwhile place
to stay. The rooms that sleep four (some with
kitchens) are fair value.
Phoenix Bar (meals K18-24; h10am-2pm & 5-10pm
Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun) Attached to the Bluff Inn
Motel. The best place to stop for lunch.
Getting There & Away
PMVs leave from Gordons Market (Map
p77; K3) semi-regularly. The road is sur-
faced to Sogeri and all the way down to the
Varirata National Park, however the section
from Sogeri to Owers’ Corner – the start
of the Kokoda Track – is suitable for
4WDs only.
HIRITANO HIGHWAY
The Hiritano Hwy leaves northward from
Port Moresby and goes to Brown River
in Central Province, located about 40km
from the capital. It’s a nice spot to go for a
swim. It then comes back to the coast west
of Port Moresby, traditional lands of the
Mekeo people known for their colourful
dancing costumes and face painting, and
then onward passing Yule Island (see p89),
eventually reaching Kerema (see p202) in
Gulf Province.

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 © Lonely Planet Publications
85

Central, Oro
& Milne Bay Provinces
The eastern provinces of Central, Oro and Milne Bay have it all – dazzling reefs, an arsenal
of WWII historic sites, jungle-clad mountains and, most endearingly, good-spirited and genu-

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

inely hospitable people. Those who love the outdoors will find plenty of it here and ample
opportunity to scramble over, fall down on, dive into, and swim through it.

CENTRAL, ORO
Papua New Guinea’s foremost attraction, the Kokoda Track, seesaws for 96 unrelenting kilo-
metres between the Central and Oro Provinces. But the Kokoda is far more than a mere track.
Japanese and Australians fought one of WWII’s bloodiest running battles along these paths
and, for many Aussies, it embodies their never-say-die identity. Today, many walk in solidarity
for their forefathers who fought and died in this most inhospitable but beautiful battlefield.

Further east, at Tufi and north of Alotau, some of the world’s most biologically diverse
reefs will have you gasping on your snorkel’s mouthpiece. When you tire of marvelling
at the kaleidoscopic colours of the reefs and diving the numerous WWII planes and boat
wrecks, try your hand at muck diving (diving amid the critters that lurk at the sea bed and
the detritus of history) under the pylons of the Samarai Island Wharf.

Turning north, across the Solomon Sea, you’ll find the legendary Trobriand Islands, home
to the exotic Milamala Festival of ‘free’ love, cricket and – above all – yams. Alotau, the
capital of Milne Bay Province, is one of the safest and most attractive towns in the country
and home to the Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Festival, during which island warriors paddle
ocean-going canoes in races guaranteed to have your heart racing.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Retracing WWII battles over the rugged

Owen Stanley Range on the infamous
Kokoda Track (p91)
„ Swimming through clouds of techni-
Trobriand
coloured reef fish and catching a canoe to Islands
the untouched island communities off East
Tufi
Cape (p113) Kokoda
Track
„ Playing cricket on Trobriand Islands (p120)
Alotau East Cape
and immersing yourself in the islands’
unique culture.
„ Staying in a seaside village among the
amazing volcanic rias (fjords) of Tufi (p107)
„ Cheering alongside locals for your favourite
canoe in the Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe
Festival (p111) in Alotau

„ POPULATION: 527,000 „ AREA: 67,940 SQ KM

 86 C E N T R A L , O R O & M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E S • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L , O R O & M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E S • • G e o g r a p h y & C l i m a t e 87

0 100 km
CENTRAL, ORO & MILNE BAY PROVINCES 0 60 miles
Mt Lawson Alligator Point
Kakoro (2722m) MOROBE Hercules
GULF PROVINCE
PROVINCE Mt Strong Bay
(3588m)
Malalaua W Cape Ward
Mt St Mary ar r Manau
(3654m) ia Rive Hunt
Kukipi
Mt Yule r TROBR
(3276m) Mt Albert Edward
R ive IA
Tapini
(3990m) S O L O M O N S E A Tuma I N
D
Iokea

re
Goilala Kosipi

IS
Kaibola

ba
Region Holnicote Bay

am
Ala r Woitape
bu ve Fane Losuia

M
Sanananda
le Ri
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

Gona

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

Kitava I
Ri apa

Bereina Ononge Buna

See Kiriwina Iwa I
ver
n

Popondetta Mongi
Va

M
Yule I Agivairu Mt Victoria Island Map
Dugumenu I

AR
(4035m) Kokoda Girua Oro Bay (p119)
Kairuku H
CENTRAL, ORO

Kwaiawatta I

CENTRAL, ORO
Hi Dyke A Muyua
Poukama rit (3505m) Sairope Eroro Musa Mt. Brittania LL Madua I
an See Kokoda Track Ackland Point (1726m) Cape Nelson D' Gawa I (Woodlark) I
o y Mt EN BE
Cape Hw Sections (pp92–5) Mt Lamington
Gobe
Bay
Tufi
Kofure
Oiautukekea T RE NN Kaurai
Suckling (3449m) (1585m) Pongani ET
Hisiu Madilogo Sinofuka (2566m) C IS Kulumadau
Kagi Afore Sarire Mt Victory A
Brown River Owers' Goodenough I S
T
Gewoia (1925m)
Redscar Head Lea Lea Corner Kokoda O Vivigani AMPHLET E Guasopa Cannac I Wabomat I
w ORO Wanigela Collingwood

A
Caution Bay Track r Fergusson IS
e Bay

U
PROVINCE ve Wa Bolubolu LAUGHLAN GROUP
Ri rd

X
Sogeri n Moni River I (2073m)
River

Yiaku Hu Iamalele
Napa Napa

sa
Ma nt Mt Lamanai
S

IS
Sirinumu Tutubia

Mu
PORT MORESBY g i Mt Obree Mt Suckling (492m) Alcester I
t
h

Dam (3055m) a S Sanaroa I

elc

(3676m) Bogaboga Mapamoiwa

See Port Moresby n MILNE Deidei
W

tr
Hw

l e Ailulia

ai
Kemp

& Around Map BAY Dobu Passage

y

t
Rigo Cape Vogel Salamo Esa'ala
(pp70–1)
Gaba Gaba
y PROVINCE Normanby I
R a Goodenough
Round Point Kwikila Boianai Bay

ὄ ὄὄὄὄ
Awaiama

ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ ὄ
n g Matupa Sehulea
e Rabaraba S O L O M O N S E A
CENTRAL Taupota Wagahuhu SewaSaidowai
Gulf of Papua PROVINCE Dogura No 2 (1158m)
Kupiano Mt Simpson Mt Hoia Bay Bay
Hula (2883m) Thompson & Tawali Go Bunama
Topura s
Hood Point Hood McFarlane (1798m) Wedau Resort East c he n
St r ai t
STRATHORD IS
Bay Keppel Harbour Burumai
Batumata
Wamira Gurney
Divinai Cape Nuakata I
Dagadaga China Strait Point Cape Point
Point Godaisu Alotau Ahioma
Kuiaro (Pearl) I Rodney Table Yamba I Dawson I Hastings I
Galahi I Milne Bay East I
West China Bay Bona Bona I Wagawaga
Strait Lamhaga Sideia I
Channel Mullins Bunora I
Magesina Mila Baleki
Bonaloahilihili I (Magehau) Harbour Suau Basilaki I Misima I LO
Tabinagurm I Panaeati I UI

ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Kwato C O R A L S E A Suwayabina SI
I Sariba I Mt Oiatau Bwagaoia A
See China Strait Bentley I Ilai I DE
Kwato Brumer I (1037m)
Mission See Samarai I Suau I Enlargement AR
Enlargement RENARD
Wari Is CONFLICT IS C
Logea I Kwaiam I Samarai Island GROUP H
Customs Wharf Christopher Imbert I IP
(Rogeia) East Channel Robinson Tawai Reef
Panawina I Manuga E
Deka Deka I Old International Wharfs Memorial Uluma DUPERRE Motorina I Reefs L
Bonalia A
Bay Reef Quessant I IS G
Yama Reef Samarai I Wharf Dive Site Bwanasa Women's Panasail I
Samarai I

O
Association Guesthouse Panatinane I Rossel
Luluni SITCO Wharf (Boats Trading ANCHORAGE REEFS Long Reef C A LV AD O S
Point to Kwato I & Alotau) CH Yeina (Yela) I
Manta Ray Company Sports AI
Ground Lookout Panawaipona I N Tagula (Piron) I
Cleaning Gona Bara Anglican Church
Station Power
Bara I Market House Old Hospital Sudest (Tagula) I
Memorial Waanya
Tobu I Doini I Hall Customs & Rambuso Mission
Police Madua
Arch Is 0 5 km 0 200 m Immigration Station
Office Lawik
0 3 miles 0 0.1 miles Barrier Reef Reef

History sionaries arrived on Muyua (Woodlark) who forcibly removed local men to work in etened down and the mines were worked out.
The coastal people and islanders of this region Island, but the locals, it seems, were unen- northern Australian sugar plantations. This Then came the war (see boxed text, p88).
have traded for centuries in extensive barter thusiastic about Christianity and the Marists loathsome practice was known as ‘blackbird- Milne Bay became a huge Allied naval
networks, the most famous of which was the were gone within eight years. Apparently ing’ and continued well into the 20th century. base and a few American landing craft and
kula ring (see p117). The hiri trade between undeterred, the London Missionary Society Errol Flynn, who spent his formative years several memorials can still be seen. The gar-
Motuans in Central Province and villages fur- (LMS), Catholics, Anglicans, Methodists and ducking and diving around New Guinea from dens and plantations inland from Buna and
ther around the gulf was conducted in huge finally the Seventh-Day Adventists opened for 1927 to 1933, later wrote of the ‘confidence’ Gona had barely recovered from the war
two-masted lakatois (sailing boats). business between the 1870s and 1908. Most required to persuade local elders to allow their when Mt Lamington’s 1951 eruption wiped
In 1606 Spanish mariner Luis Vaéz de notable among them was Reverend Charles men to be carted off. out Higaturu, the district headquarters, and
Torres, after whom the Louisiades were named, W Abel, a dissident member of the LMS, On the north coast early European con- almost 3000 people. The new headquarters
abducted 14 children and took them to Manila who in 1891 founded the Kwato Extension tacts with the Orokaiva people were relatively town of Popondetta was established at a safer
in the Philippines to be baptised. He was fol- Association on Kwato Island, near Samarai peaceful, but when gold was discovered at distance from the volcano.
lowed by an array of explorers, including the in the China Strait. This was the first church Yodda and Kokoda in 1895, violence soon fol-
famous Frenchman Antoine d’Entrecasteaux, to provide skills training to the indigenous lowed. A government station was established Geography & Climate
who left his name on a large group of islands. people of Milne Bay. after an altercation between locals and miners, The region stretches down the ‘dragon’s
But it wasn’t until 1847 that Europeans sought Apart from men of God, the region at- but the first government officer was killed tail’ at the eastern end of mainland PNG
to settle the region. In that year, Marist mis- tracted a less savoury crew of opportunists shortly after he arrived. Eventually things qui- and out into the Coral and Solomon seas,
 88 CENTRAL PROVINCE lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels CENTRAL PROVINCE •• Hiritano Highway 89

impossible between the country’s two big- Later, the island became a government
BETWEEN THE SEA AND A HARD PLACE: THE BATTLE OF MILNE BAY gest cities. Once these gaps are filled, the headquarters and base for explorations.
In 1942, at 11.30pm on 25 August, the Japanese Imperial Army started invading Milne Bay. In Central Province stands to reap the rewards Today the district local government head-
just two landings a few days apart, the Japanese established a 2400-strong army near Ahioma. from passing traffic and become a far easier quarters is on the mainland at Bereina and
Unlike Kokoda, the battle of Milne Bay was not to be a protracted affair; it would be over in place to visit. the island has been in serious economic
just 12 days. decline since. An airstrip that is more bush
The Japanese fought skirmishes with the Allies and their base suffered early casualties under HIRITANO HIGHWAY than strip and derelict buildings are the only
a fierce RAAF aircraftled barrage. On the moonlit nights of 26 and 27 August the Japanese The now impressively pot-holed Hiritano Hwy reminders that at one stage Siria village once
attacked, forcing the Australian battalions to withdraw to the Gama River. Pressing their advan- once connected Port Moresby with Kerema, boasted a fisheries industry, wharfs, a bank
tage the Japanese attacked again the next night, this time pushing the Allies backwards to the far to the west in Gulf Province. Locals now and guesthouse.
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

converted No 3 airstrip, amid furious fighting. abandon the road at Malalaua for dinghies In 1972 local 17-year-old schoolgirl Susan
Three times the Japanese charged wildly across the open before a hail of fire, and they were which ferry them the last 70km. If you do Karike (now Mrs Huhume) surprised every-
CENTRAL, ORO

CENTRAL, ORO
repulsed each time. The tide of the battle had turned, the Australians had been reinforced and consider driving the whole highway, only do one and won the nationwide competition to
the attackers became the defenders. The Australians launched counter attacks and the Japanese so in the dry season and bring an extra 4WD design the national flag.
sent warships to help their embattled troops. A week later the Japanese Navy called their invasion with a winch to pull free your first vehicle The most recent addition to the landscape
off and started evacuating troops. It is estimated that 750 Japanese and 161 Australians were from the waist-high mud. There is talk of is the remains of a whale that washed up here
killed at Milne Bay; many more were wounded. road repairs but in these parts talk is cheap, in 2006. Many of the vertebrae can be seen
In the broad canvas of the Pacific war, it was not a major victory. Its significance as the first and road repairs are expensive. around the village being used as stools and
Allied land victory in the Pacific boosted morale far beyond Milne Bay’s bloodied shores. This area is home to the Mekeo people, the skull still juts out from the sand. By all
See www.diggerhistory.info/pages-battles/ww2/milne_bay.htm for more details on the who are noted for their colourful, dancing accounts things got a bit whiffy around town
battle. costumes and face painting. On ceremonial while the carcass rotted.
occasions the men paint their faces in striking There are several palm-fringed beaches
geometric designs. around the island but the pick of the bunch
taking in the hundreds of islands and atolls of ing it one of the most steeply sided islands If you fancy munching on a marsupial is Paradise Beach, a hot half-day walk to the
Milne Bay Province. On the south coast Port on earth. watch for the Vanuamai people selling roasted island’s far tip. Arrange for a local guide or
Moresby is built around one of several natu- Weather patterns are unpredictable, par- wallaby (K10 for a set of ribs) along the road- charter a dinghy.
ral harbours and sits in the centre of a large ticularly in the east where rainstorms can side. They taste pretty good – the wallabies
area of dry grasslands; swamps and tidal flats be spontaneous and heavy. In Milne Bay that is, not the Vanuamai people; no one has SLEEPING & EATING
can be found elsewhere on the coast. Province, November to January has the op- been eaten around here for decades. The island’s sole remaining guesthouse,
The mainland is divided by the Owen timum and most consistent weather, and Carmelite convent, is now beyond repair, home
Stanley Range, which rises rapidly from the March to June is the least windy period. Yule Island only to termites and snakes. Try Daughters of Our
northern and southern coasts to peaks of From December to March, the cyclone For such an inconsequential speck on the Lady of the Sacred Heart (OLSH Convent; s incl meals K50).
3500m to 4000m. Not surprisingly, major season in northern Australia and the Coral map, Yule Island certainly has a lot of history. There are no phones on the island and it is a
roads are few: the Magi and Hiritano Hwys Sea can trigger high seas and big winds, al- Recent fortunes have waned and locals give hit-and-miss affair arranging accommodation.
extend from Port Moresby, while in Oro though Milne Bay itself is usually calm. the impression that they’re just waiting for The Diocese of Bereina (%325 6102) office in Port
Province the only road of any length runs someone, anyone, to come in and kick-start Moresby or Sister Rosaleen O’Brien (%325 4124)
from the capital, Popondetta, to Kokoda, the economy. It has happened before. may offer some advice. The few remaining
from where it’s all about leg power.
Mt Lamington, near Popondetta, remains
CENTRAL PROVINCE In 1885 Catholic missionaries, who were
some of the first European visitors to reach
nuns here are great company and, if they take
pity on you, can put you up in comfortable,
a mildly active volcano and further east Stretching for more than 500km either the Papuan coast, held PNG’s first mass here mosquito-proof rooms with clean ensuite
there are volcanoes near Tufi. The section of side of Port Moresby, Central Province on 4 July. Today the location, Centennial Hill, bathrooms and generated electricity. Students
coast around Cape Nelson has unique tropi- lives in the shadow of the national capital. boasts a small memorial decorated with and missionaries get discounts. Act pious.
cal ‘fjords’, or rias; their origin is volcanic Overlooked by tourists and long ignored by mosaics and a painted bronze (yes – someone Fledgling operators Camillus Aisi Koae and
rather than glacial. Much of this northern politicians, infrastructure is, even by local painted over the bronze) statue. They also Michael Koae both indicated to us that they
coast is made up of coral limestone. standards, bagarap (buggered up). brought with them 14 Filipino lay mission- would happily provide homestays for K25
The islands of Milne Bay Province are Things, however, may soon change. aries (the first Philippine visitors to PNG) per night and three meals for an additional
divided into six main groups: the Samarai In 2008 the opening of the long-awaited to teach catechism and generally help evan- K35 in Siria village. Conditions are very basic
group; D’Entrecasteaux group; the Trobriand Southern Highlands Gulf Hwy will connect gelise the country. Besides Catholicism, the without either electricity or running water.
Islands; Muyua (Woodlark) Island; the Kikori in the Gulf Province to the Highland Filipinos also help account for the Hispanic BYO sleeping sheets, mosquito net and a
Conflict and Engineer groups; and the Hwy near Mendi. The pothole in that plan to surnames that you may encounter. sense of adventure.
300km-long Louisiade Archipelago. They connect Port Moresby and Lae is the poorly It’s worth poking around the cemetery amid
range from tiny dots to mountainous islands maintained Hiritano Hwy. As it stands today the recently restored headstones for the grave GETTING THERE & AWAY
like Fergusson, Normanby and Goodenough the waterways between Kikori and Kerema of M Bourgade, one of France’s top WWI air PMVs leave Monday, Wednesday, Saturday
which, while only 26km wide, soars to 2566m and the impassable road between Kerema aces, who died here of Malaria while working and Sunday from Port Moresby’s Erima
at the summit of Mt Oiautukekea, mak- and Malalaua still render overland travel as a mission worker. PMV stop for Poukama (K13, four hours)
 90 CENTRAL PROVINCE •• Magi Highway Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com KOKODA TRACK •• Planning 91

and connect with the waiting dinghies which
will run you to the island for K5. Poukama is
little more than a car park and barter market
located down a dirt road 38km past Agivairu
and about 160km from Moresby.
To continue towards Kerema you have to
catch a Port Moresby-bound PMV back to
Agivairu and transfer there (at Anna Pino’s
store) onto a Malalaua–bound vehicle. If
they are all full and this proves impossible,
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
graze along the walking paths, and there are
tree kangaroos and parrots in an enclosure.
Diving costs A$60 for one or A$150 for three
dives (including equipment), and a four-day
PADI certification course costs A$500.
Loloata offers a range of tours (such
as Varirata National Park, Sogeri, Owers’
Corner) as well as massages on the premises.
To get there, drive out on the Rigo Rd (which
meets the airport road in Six Mile) to the
A WING AND A PRAYER
The Goilala airstrips are some of the most exhilarating in PNG, and that’s saying something.
All of them are white-knuckle, jaw-clenching rides on incredibly short runways. Move over
Disneyland.
At Tapini the strip is carved into a hillside and because it runs steeply uphill and ends in a
sheer face, pilots only dare come in one way. It gets worse: Ononge’s ridgetop airstrip has a
dogleg halfway down, forcing the pilot to make a 10-degree turn mid-landing! Fane is another
rough strip along the spine of a mountain; when the plane takes off, over the cliff edge, you’re
either falling or flying – most definitely praying. Woitape is slippery when wet and, being built

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

it is safer to continue all the way to Port Tahira Boating Centre on Bootless Bay. The in a swampy area, it’s often wet. It’s so wet and cloudy that our pilot called out during an abrupt
Moresby and retrace your steps the follow- resort’s boats make regular trips to the island. descent, ‘We should be there by now; keep your eyes open for an airstrip!’
CENTRAL, ORO

CENTRAL, ORO
ing day as the Hiritano has experienced recent Alternatively, call ahead and the resort bus will
raskol (bandit) activity. collect you from the airport or your hotel.

MAGI HIGHWAY GOILALA REGION KOKODA TRACK PLANNING

This highway runs east from Port Moresby,
circling round Bootless Bay to the small ma-
rina (Tahira Boating Centre) from which the
ferry crosses to Loloata Island, the main at-
traction on this route. It continues in varying
states of disrepair past many fine beaches,
the pick of them being Hula Beach, about
100km from the capital. Hula has some great
surf breaks that get the seasonal June-to-
September swell. There’s also good windsurf-
ing and a basic church guesthouse. The road
has seen a lot of raskol activity in recent years
and is best undertaken in a group. Ditto for
Hula Beach.
Loloata Island
About 20km east of Port Moresby, Loloata
Island, in Bootless Bay, is a popular weekend
escape – midweek is even better.
oLoloata Island Resort (%325 8590; www
.loloata.com; s/d incl all meals A$210/360; a) is the attrac-
tion here, where snorkelling, fishing, kayaking,
sailboarding and diving equipment are for hire.
After the hurly-burly of Port Moresby, Loloata
is the perfect tonic. There are dozens of dive
sites (click on www.loloata.com/divesites),
including a Boston A20 bomber, but many
people come simply to do nothing for a few
days. Loloata is popular with day-trippers from
Port Moresby; weekends can get busy here.
A day trip, including return transfers, from
Port Moresby, lunch and a diving/snorkelling
trip to the reefs around nearby Lion Island
costs K100 for adults and K50 for kids aged
2 to 13. Accommodation is provided in large,
comfortable beachfront bungalows that have
panoramic views northeast across Bootless Bay
and the Owen Stanley Range on the mainland.
The island has many semi-tame wallabies that
If you want to look at the high country behind
the coastal strip, experience heart-in-mouth
airstrips or try lesser-known but interesting
walks, the mountain villages of the Goilala
region are well worth a visit. The hiking up
here is wonderful, with steep mountains, often
covered in bush, and the pretty villages of
Woitape, Tapini, Ononge and Fane, ranging from
about 930m to 1764m high.
The Catholic fathers bequeathed the area an
excellent network of well-graded tracks that
once took mule trains. June to October are the
walking months; June to August are best.
Sleeping & Eating
There is a government station at Tapini and
Catholic missions at Fane, Ononge, Kosipi and
Woitape, and if you turn up, you’ll find a bed,
a village meal and a guide without a problem.
Prices are negotiable, but low. Alternatively,
the comfortable Woitape Lodge (%325 2011 in Port
Moresby; s incl meals K200), run by Airlines PNG, is a
great place to end a long day’s trekking. Enjoy
its open fire, bar and rustic atmosphere. Staff
can arrange guides and cook up some tasty
food, but you need to let them know that
you’re coming. The lodge is a great staging
post for assaults on Mt Albert.
Getting There & Away
Airlines PNG flies from Port Moresby on
Wednesdays and Saturdays to Woitape
(K265), Tapini (K298), Fane (K266) and
Ononge (K248), but you’ll need to book ahead
and check right up until the last minute. All
flights are short, but how long it takes reach
your destination depends on how many stops
there are along the way.
There is no road access.
Halfway through the trek you may wonder
why you ever came to walk the Kokoda. Your
blistered feet will hurt, your clothes will be wet
with sweat and by the end of the day you’ll un-
doubtedly be tired and hungry. But what your
pictures won’t show (assuming you muster the
energy to take a few) is your growing sense
of awe. For over every steep, slippery step on
this 96km natural rollercoaster, Australians,
Americans and Japanese fought for their lives;
against each other and against the terrain. In
1942 there were no guesthouses, no porters
and no relief from dysentery and the constant
fear of ambush. To read a synopsis of the
Kokoda campaign, see p98.
Crossing the Owen Stanley Range has be-
come a pilgrimage for many Australians, a
chance to pay their respects by sharing some
of the men’s trials who fought and died here.
And what started as a trickle is turning into
a tide. In 2006 there were 4000 trekkers (95%
of them Australian) who gritted their teeth
and tackled the mountains. The majority
walk as part of an organised group; only the
most experienced trekkers could consider
walking this track independently (see boxed
text, p95). Masochists could always run it –
just enter the Kokoda 24-hour race (p101).
Apart from the wartime history, relation-
ships built with today’s residents of the track,
and particularly the guides and carriers who
trek with you, are mutually rewarding. They
serve as a reminder that the Kokoda Track
is about people; not just a distant, heroic
military campaign.
This section should be used as a guide to
planning, but not walking, the track. For full
details, Clive Baker’s The Kokoda Trek is a
must; see p93.
Most people walk the track with a company
specialising in organised treks (p93) and all
the logistical arrangements will be dealt with
by them. The first decision when considering
walking the Kokoda Track is whether you
prefer a hassle-free, albeit more expensive,
guided trek or a cheaper, locally arranged
walk. The following advice is a starting point
for all walkers.
All trekkers (but not porters and guides)
must pay a K200 trekking fee and obtain a
permit from the Kokoda Track Authority (KTA;
%323 6165, 685 7685; kokodatrackauthority@global.net
.pg, 1st fl, Brian Bell Bldg, Boroko, Port Moresby) or at the
KTA Agency office in Kokoda before starting
the trip; you cannot pay this fee at Owers’
Corner. The KTA in Port Moresby is also a
great place to ‘bump’ into guides and porters
(p92) who often hang around here.
There are basic ‘resthouses’ in most vil-
lages plus various shelters and campsites along
the track. Some of the resthouses (per person with/
without porter K25/20; cash only) and camp sites (per
person up to K15; cash only) are small, so if you meet
another party you might have to camp in the
village or move on to the next village.
Most porters are very resourceful and
able to find accommodation with wantoks.
However, ultimately it is your responsibility
to bring all the equipment, including tents and
utensils, which your party will need. The same
is also true for food; your guide will take only
the clothes he is wearing.
Organised treks supply the bulk of your
food, which accompanies you on the backs
of local carriers. It’s replenished about
halfway along via a chartered flight; there are
no trade stores on the track (only at Sogeri
and Kokoda). Bring any comfort food yourself
and keep it light. And don’t forget sachets of
 92 KOKODA TRACK •• Planning lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com KOKODA TRACK •• Planning 93

KOKODA TRACK – SOUTH

Elevation (Metres)
2600

2400

2200

2000 Brigade
Hill
(1415m)
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

1800
Maguli Views to
Range Hombrum & Varirata
in clear weather Kagi
1600 (1350m) (1400m)
CENTRAL, ORO

CENTRAL, ORO
First of nine Views to Mt Victoria, Efogi
1400 false crests Mt Tamata & Manari (1145m)
(walking from (1130m)
Ioribaiwa Kokoda) View to
Ridge Manari
1200 Imita (850m) Naoro
Owers' Golden Ridge Manari
Views to (850m)
Corner Stairs (850m) Imita
1000 (885m) (Steps long Ridge Ofi
Uberi since Creek Swamps
(440m) destroyed) Ioribaiwa (800m)
800 (abandoned)
Goldie
River Va Ule
(420m) Creek
600
(300m)

400

200

0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Walking Time from Owers' Corner (Hours)

rehydration salts – maintaining your fluid and
carbohydrate levels is critical (see p325).
Whether you are on an organised trek
or walking with locals, ensure that you
have comprehensive individual medical
insurance.
Guides & Carriers
If you’re trekking independently, don’t do
it without a good guide. A personal rec-
ommendation is best – the Kokoda Track
Authority in Port Moresby is a good place
to start. You could also try asking other
trekkers on the www.kokodatrail.com.pg/
forums web forum. There are dozens of
guides and carriers working on the track
and most of them are freelancers.
It is also possible to hire carriers at Kokoda
and at Variatta National Park near Sogeri,
although you can’t just expect them to be
able to drop everything at a moment’s notice
and head off. The maximum that a carrier can
carry (and is permitted to do so under KTA
rules) is 15kg.
On your own or in a group, having a carrier
might mean the difference between finishing
the trek or giving up along the way. One car-
rier between two or three is a good idea. If the
weight becomes too much, you can employ
a carrier in most villages along the track, but
they are getting busier as the route becomes
more popular. Pay guides about K80 per day
and carriers about K60 per day, plus K20 per
day for food and lodgings; you’ll also need to
pay their airfares back home.
When to Trek
Most trekking companies operate between
March and October, but the coolest, dri-
est and best months to trek are from May
to September. It could rain at any time of
year. Most companies don’t operate between
November and February when it is too wet,
too dangerous and too uncomfortable.
What to Bring
You can’t go without a comfortable pair of
boots or running shoes with good grip. You’ll
also need a tent with fly (some tour compa-
nies provide these); a water bottle or a water
bladder, to be refilled from streams as you
go; a light sleeping bag; and wet-weather gear
(even in the dry season). A poncho is a good,
multipurpose option. Prepare yourself with
a comprehensive medical kit (see p320). The
total weight of your pack should not exceed
15kg. Local fruits and vegetables are available
in villages, but you or your carriers will need
to carry the rest.
Information Sources
Apart from the books mentioned below, the
forum (www.kokodatrail.com.au/forums) has a sec-
tion devoted to personal accounts and arti-
cles from people who have walked the trek.
Trekking operators’ websites and the PNG
Tourism Authority website (www.png-tourism
.com) also have good advice and the later has
an up-to-date price list for permits.
There is an ever-growing number of books
about the Kokoda campaign, though only one
that is worth carrying with you. Clive Baker’s
The Kokoda Trek has a full description of the
trek. Baker’s book, and almost any other on
the subject, can be bought from the on-line
mail order shop (www.warbooks.com.au). It also has
plans for a Kokoda news item page for the
latest stories that emerge.
Be sure to bring zip-lock bags for any papers
and maps, lest you sweat them to death.
Maps of varying vintage are available in
Port Moresby from the National Mapping Bureau
(NMB; %327 6223; natmap@datec.com.pg; Melanesian Way,
Waigani), though they’re more interesting than
necessary. The Longitudinal Cross-Section of
the Kokoda Trail (1995) has useful descriptive
notes and detailed sections of tricky areas. See
p103 for book recommendations.
Organised Treks
You can choose to walk the track with one
of dozens of companies, which takes most of
the hassle out of the preparation, leaving you
to focus on getting fit. Your choice will de-
pend on your budget, interest in the military
campaign, the company’s safety record and
how it deals with emergencies, and what
sort of relationship you want with the car-
riers. Costs depend on the length of the trek,
whether it includes airfares from Australia,
what equipment is provided and whether you
employ a carrier or not. See the websites for
full details and make sure you are comparing
like with like.
 94 KOKODA TRACK •• Planning lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K O K O D A T R A C K • • G e t t i n g t o & f r o m t h e T re k 95

KOKODA TRACK – NORTH

Elevation (Metres)
2600

Mt Bellamy
2400 (2190m)
Kokoda Gap
Lookout
2000m
2200 Lake Templeton's
Myola Crossing No. 1 1910m
(1850m) Templeton's
2000 View to Mt Crossing No. 2
Victoria & Kagi (1700m)
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

1800 Kagi
(1400m)
Iora Creek Isurava
(1425m) Memorial Isurava
Alola (1375m)
CENTRAL, ORO

1600

CENTRAL, ORO
(1340m) (1375m)

1400

Deniki
1200 (abandoned;
930m)

1000

800

Hoi
600 (370m) Kokoda
Kovelo (340m)

400

200

0
25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
Walking Time from Owers' Corner (Hours)

In 2001 the Kokoda Track Authority issued
permits for 76 walkers. In 2006 it issued 3747
permits and numbers for 2007 were expected
to exceed even these! For information about
rules, fees and operators see www.pngtourism
.org.pg/ActivitiesEvents/kokodatrail.htm. Some of
the main players in this increasingly lucrative
space include the following.
Adventure Kokoda (www.kokodatreks.com; A$4895)
This high-profile company is led by Charlie Lynn, son of a
WWII Kokoda digger. This company has featured on many
TV programmes. One of the best operators.
Ecotourism Melanesia (%323 4518; www.em.com
.pg) Perhaps the largest locally owned inbound tour
operator in PNG. Its tours are not cheap, but it lives up to
an excellent reputation.
Executive Excellence (www.executiveexcellence.com
.au; A$6250) Known by some as the ‘men in tights’, this
Brisbane-based operation employs ex-soldiers and includes
a full pre-departure training programme.
Kokoda Trekking (www.kokodatrekking.com.au; with/
without porter A$2360/1850) This PNG-owned company
has no expert guides, which makes their trips cheaper and
often encourages greater interaction with local guides and
carriers. Good feedback, but historical knowledge is limited.
Kokoda Trekking put more walkers on the Track than any
other each year between 2004 and 2007. This company
sponsors the Kokoda Track Challenge foot race (see p101).
Kokoda Treks & Tours (www.kokoda.com.au; A$2700)
When it comes to knowledge of the campaign, Frank Taylor
is hard to beat. Treks are organised with military precision
and include a trip to Buna and Gona. Fair value.
PNG Trekking Adventures (www.pngtrekkingadven
tures.com) Highly regarded trekking company operated by
long-time Australian expats based in Port Moresby. These
tours are limited to 12 to 15 walkers at a time.
Several of PNG’s larger tour operators also
run treks, including South Pacific Tours (spt@global
.net.pg) and Niugini Tours (www.nghols.com).
It’s quite possible to walk the Kokoda Track
if you’re already on the ground in PNG. Be
sure to ask whether your guides have insur-
ance and what their evacuation plans are
(if you break an ankle). Of the many local
Kokoda trekking operators, the Kokoda
Track Authority’s recommendations include
the following:
Fuzzy Wuzzy Expeditions (contact KTA; %323 6165;
kokodatrackauthority@global.net.pg) Defol Orere is an
experienced tour leader who also works with the Kokoda
Track Authority.
Koiari Treks & Tours (%689 3621; koiaritreks@global a 4WD to reach Owers’ Corner, taking the
.net.pg) Narai Billy has lead many Kokoda expeditions. turn-off just before Sogeri – look for a white-
Kokoda Holidays (%683 2758; kokodaholidays@ painted stone war memorial. At McDonald’s
daltron.com.pg) This small operation is run by David Corner there is a strange metal sculpture of
Soru. a soldier; this is where the road once ended
Kokoda Trail Legend Guided Tours (%323 6165; and the track started, but the actual track now
fax 323 6020; mkaso-06@yahoo.com) Max Kaso has been starts further on at Owers’ Corner. PMVs run
guiding Kokoda walkers for years. from Gordons Market in Port Moresby to
Sogeri early in the morning. From there,
GETTING TO & FROM THE TREK you’ll need to wait and hope for a lift to
The Kokoda Track runs between Owers’ Owers’ Corner or start walking the 16km.
Corner in Central Province and Kokoda in The Kokoda Track Authority (p91) can help
Oro Province. At the southern end you’ll need arrange transport. Note: due to the rutty and
WARNING
The Kokoda Track is not PNG’s most difficult trek, but it’s no walk in the park either. As
galahad_at_large on www.lonelyplanet.com/bluelist put it – ‘practice by climbing the stairs in
an office tower at home. For realism, cover yourself in mud, carry a sack of onions on your back
and wear slippery shoes’.
Aim to do it in nine days, not six. Take advantage of the services of local carriers and never
walk with fewer than four people. If there is an accident, two can get help and one can stay
with the injured. Robberies and conflicts among traditional landowners have led to the track’s
closure in the past, but in recent years the situation has been fairly calm. Still, it’s worth keep-
ing an ear open.
 96 K O K O D A T R A C K • • T h e T re k Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels O R O P R O V I N C E • • P o p o n d e t t a 105

slippery surface, the road is often impassable,
so be prepared to walk at least part of it if
required. See also Shortcuts, right.
THE TREK
Depending on how fit you are, it takes between
six and 11 days to traverse the track. The itin-
erary shown here starts at Owers’ Corner, but
just as many people walk the other way, which
involves about 550m more climbing. By taking
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
There are about three resthouses in Efogi – the biggest
village on the track.
Day 4: Efogi–Kagi–Mt Bellamy (12km, seven hours)
An hour of climbing and descending past Efogi is Kagi,
another spectacular village site. From here, the track
climbs to its highest point at Mt Bellamy. You can side-trip
to Myola in three to four hours return. Along the way, and
just off the track, is the huge crater where a WWII bomber
blew up and scattered aircraft parts in all directions. Your
guide/carrier should know the place.
(Continued from page 96)
If you want a little taste of the track, you can
walk down to the Goldie River from Owers’
Corner in just an hour or so. If you have the
energy, struggle up what was once the Golden
Staircase to Imita Ridge.
Another option would be to fly in to Kagi,
Efogi or Manari, walk a section and fly out.
Flying to Kagi and walking to Manari (one
Grace Eroro’s Guesthouse, and travellers have
reported that it’s good value.
Limited food and, mercifully, beer is usu-
ally available from Kokoda’s trade stores; send
a runner ahead to organise ice.
Getting There & Away
Most people fly into or out of Kokoda on
a flight chartered by their tour company.
Airlines PNG flies to and from Port Moresby

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

a longer trip, you have more time for side- Day 5: Mt Bellamy–Alola (17km, 11 hours) After a day) would be interesting. All these strips are (K244) every Wednesday. If you miss that
trips, exploring the battlefields and experienc- long down and up section, the track passes Templeton’s serviced by only expensive charter flights. flight, catch a PMV down to Popondetta
CENTRAL, ORO

CENTRAL, ORO
ing village life. The average trekker walks about Crossing, followed by another up, down and up to Alola A cheaper option is to get to Kokoda and which has daily Air Niugini connections to
50 hours from beginning to end. No itinerary – quite a tiring section. walk to the Isurava Memorial and back. Allow the capital.
is set in stone; this one is indicative only. Day 6: Alola–Kokoda (19km, 10 hours) When you two full days of trekking, overnighting in the PMVs (K15, 3½ hours) leave Kokoda for
Day 1: Owers’ Corner–Va Ule Creek campsites reach the Isurava Memorial, allow yourself at least an hour Isuravo Memorial trekkers hut. Popondetta at 1pm and sometimes at the un-
(10km, six hours) The campsites are about one to 1½ at the old battle site. It’s a most impressive and moving godly hours of midnight to 2am (so that locals
hours past Imita Ridge. Watch for the extensive weapon place. After the memorial there is an optional two-hour KOKODA can get at the front of the bank queue). Rusty’s
pits on the northern face of Imita Ridge, where the detour to a wrecked Japanese aircraft with its paintwork The Owen Stanley Range rises almost sheer Place (left) has its own colourful PMV which
Australians made their last stand in 1942. still clearly visible. It is a steep climb and you will need as a cliff face behind the Oro Province vil- is possible to charter.
Day 2: Va Ule Creek campsites–Naoro (17km, eight a guide. lage of Kokoda, where the northern end of
the track terminates. It’s a sleepy place and
hours) The track follows the original wartime route over
Ioribaiwa Ridge. A memorial is being installed on the ridge Shortcuts
Not everybody is up for the full trek – there
the grassed area in the centre of town houses
a small museum that has photos and descrip-
ORO PROVINCE
and on the slopes there are many interesting weapon Oro Province (often called Northern
pits, bunkers and relics. Naoro has spectacular 270-degree are ways of having the Kokoda experience tions of the campaign. Ask around to have it
without taking on the full challenge. opened. Grace Eroro (%329 7536) is the postal Province) is sandwiched between the Solomon
views over the valley and there is a large resthouse. Sea and the Owen Stanley Range. It’s physi-
Day 3: Naoro–Efogi (19km, seven hours) About halfway You could take a PMV from Port Moresby agent and Airlines PNG representative in
to the village of Madilogo, which avoids Kokoda, and she is a great source of infor- cally beautiful but an uninspiring capital and
between these points there are three resthouses in Manari poor transport connections mean few travel-
village. After the long climb up Brigade Hill you suddenly two hard days’ walk from Owers’ Corner to mation. Opposite the post office is a branch
Naoro. It takes about two hours to reach the of Kokoda Track Authority where trekking lers make it.
come into the open and have a wide panorama down the Oro Province is the home of the world’s
1942 battlefield, across to Kagi and Mt Bellamy in the track from Madilogo; from there it’s one to permits can be bought if you haven’t already
1½ hours to Naoro. done so in Port Moresby. Trekkers finishing largest butterfly, the Queen Alexandra’s
distance and Efogi, just below you. On a clear day you can Birdwing. You might think that you’ve seen
see all the way back to Hombrum and Varirata, near Sogeri. (Continued on page 105)
the trail should also report here to be officially
stamped off the trail. some big butterflies in PNG, but these are
monsters, with wingspans of nearly 30cm.
Sleeping & Eating The first specimen collected by a European
BEFORE YOU BOOK was brought down by a shotgun! That but-
There are a couple of resthouses in Kokoda
Price may be one of the main determining factors when selecting a trekking company but there and all of them allow you to pitch your tent terfly, a little damaged, is still in the British
are other considerations that are just as important. It’s worth asking a few questions before on their camping grounds. The Kokoda Museum. The Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing
handing over a fist full of kina. Mountain View Lodge, behind the trade store is now a threatened species. It lays its eggs
„ If you are particularly keen on the military history of the trail, then a company with knowl- that sells beer (you’ll soon find it), has a couple on a particular species of vine which is poi-
edgeable guides is a must. Ask specific questions such as: What sites will you be shown? What of huts. The Kokoda Memorial Hospital has sonous to most birds and animals; the but-
level of information can you expect from your guide? some dormitories with toilets, showers, gas terfly is poisonous as well.
„ Most trekking companies carry a satellite phone or a two-way radio; if they don’t have one
stoves and kitchen utensils. Money goes to-
wards much-needed medical supplies. POPONDETTA
and there’s a problem, no-one will hear the screams. Popondetta, which is the provincial capi-
About 2.5km along the road to Popondetta
„ How is their safety record? Besides your own insurance, which is essential, what additional is Rusty’s Place (%325 4423, 323 6650; per person incl tal, is spread along the Oro Bay Hwy a
insurances do they carry and what does it cover? meals K60), run by Russell Eroro (who operates few kilometres from the old administra-
„ Ask about their equipment; if they are supplying tents it may be possible to inspect them. Kokoda Trekking Tours, the on-the-ground tive capital of Higaturu. Popondetta exists
part of the www.kokodatrail.com.pg opera- because the previous two provincial head-
„ While agony loves company, it’s a trail, not a highway. Ask how many people form your group.
tion) and his extended family. It’s a friendly quarters were ill-fated: the one on the coast
„ What is their code of ethics? Do they pay guides and porters reasonable wages? Besides your was invaded by the Japanese and destroyed,
place, the food is good and there’s a small
Kokoda Track Authority fee, does the company contribute to local communities in any mean- and the other – moved safely inland after
stoa (store). Accommodation is simple (but
ingful way? And does it carry out accumulated rubbish or dump it behind a tree? the war – was destroyed by the eruption of
there are showers!) or you can camp on their
lawn and swim in the river. Near Rusty’s is Mt Lamington.
 106 O R O P R O V I N C E • • P o p o n d e t t a
It’s not a pretty place, with dust, litter and
idle people seeming to predominate. Most
of those who come here do so to see the
area’s WWII history – Buna and Gona are
an easy day trip – or as part of a slow boat
trip along the coast. It’s also a good base for
visiting Mt Lamington.
Popondetta itself has an Australian war
memorial with an interesting map of nearby
battle sites and an adjoining memorial to the
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
victims of the Mt Lamington eruption.
Popondetta is not a place to be wandering
CENTRAL, ORO
around alone at night.
Information
EMERGENCY
Ambulance (%329 7066)
Fire (%329 7172, 329 7144)
Police (%329 7333)
MONEY
Bank South Pacific (%329 7171)
Sights & Activities
The 1585m peak of Mt Lamington is clearly visible
from Popondetta (there’s a good view on the
road to the airport). The mountain still shakes
and puffs a little and local residents paid no at-
tention to a slight increase in activity in 1951.
However when the mountainside suddenly blew
out and a cloud of super-heated gases rushed
down, about 3000 people died and 8000 were
left homeless. It is estimated the temperature
stood near 200°C for about 90 seconds, and the
gas cloud rolled down at over 300km/h.
Mt Lamington has been fairly calm since
and keen bushwalkers can climb it today.
The Oro Guesthouse and Birdwing Butterfly
Lodge can provide information and arrange
guides, and Ecotourism Melanesia (www.em.com.pg)
has trekking tours around Mt Lamington.
The villages of Buna and Gona became
Japanese bases during WWII and were the
scene of some of the most desperate fight-
ing of the war. At Giropa Plantation, on the
Buna Rd, a Japanese plaque commemorates
the country’s dead.
Most of what remains of the bases is cov-
ered with overgrowth and a guide is nec-
essary to work out what went on where.
Basil Tindeba, from Buna, knows his way
around the area pretty well; ask for him at
the Oro Guesthouse and try to give a few
days’ notice. Another recommended guide
is Maclaren Hiari MBE, who runs the Kokoda
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Buna Historical Foundation (%329 7627). He lives
two doors east of the Oro Guesthouse. These
guys charge about K100 for their guiding
and will generally arrange to take you by
PMV and boat to both sites, which is im-
portant because without a boat you can’t
get from one to the other without returning
to Popondetta. You could go by PMV to
Gona for K3. Another good option is Pol
Toki at the Birdwing Butterfly Lodge, who
supplies a truck and also takes in Seremi
village, the scene of George Silk’s famous
photograph of fuzzy wuzzy angel Raphael
Oimbari leading blinded Australian soldier
Dick Whittington.
Sleeping & Eating
Oro Guesthouse (%329 7127; fax 329 7246; r incl 2 meals
K148-172) There is a range of rooms and prices
here that need some decoding. Ask about dis-
counted prices for students with ID, backpack-
ers and those who’ve walked the Kokoda Track
(K105). The rooms are simple, and those with
shared bathrooms are cheaper (twin including
two meals K175). The food includes plenty of
local vegetables. Alcohol is banned. It’s only a
10 minute walk from town but Kokoda PMVs
will drop you here if you ask.
Lamington Lodge (%329 7222; www.coralseahotels
.com.pg; s/tw K225/286; a) Part of the Coral Sea
chain, this is the best hotel in town but easily
the worst in the chain. Lack of competition
means it’s overpriced, but it does have the
only bar and restaurant (meals K35, open
for lunch and dinner) in town; the dishes,
including steak, pasta, curries and fish, are
reasonably good. The staff here can find local
guides to visit Buna and Gona.
Birdwing Butterfly Lodge (%329 7477; birdwing@
daltron.com.pg; r with/without 2 meals K245/190) This
friendly place, 1.5km northeast of town on the
road to Gona, has simple, clean rooms with
shared kitchens. Owner Pol Toki is a good guy
who can arrange stays in Seremi village.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Girua airport is 15km from town and one
of several wartime strips in the area. From
the air, you’ll notice the area around the air-
strip is scattered with horseshoe mounds –
the remains of WWII gun emplacements.
Air Niugini (%329 7022), next to the post of-
fice, has flights to and from Port Moresby
(K295, 40 minutes, daily). Airlines PNG had
lonelyplanet.com
a milk run that began in Port Moresby on
Sunday and stopped at Popondetta, Tufi
and Alotau before running back to Moresby
on Monday. This suspended flight may yet
be resumed.
BOAT
All boats leave from Oro Bay; see below.
PMV
PMVs for Buna (K5, 45 minutes, about 9am)
and Kokoda (K15, 3½ hours, about 11am)
leave from beneath the large trees outside
Oro Motors in the centre of town. PMVs for
Oro Bay (K5, 40 minutes) and the airport
leave from one block south. Ask at your hotel
for times, which vary, but PMV runs are
usually in the morning.
Getting Around
Popondetta is small enough to walk around.
PMVs on the Oro Bay to Popondetta Hwy
pass the airport, though they’re not that fre-
quent, especially on Sunday. Your best bet
is to get a lift with a local or one of your fel-
low passengers. Otherwise, use Lamington
Lodge’s airport shuttle or, if you’re on the
early flight, a lift with the Air Niugini staff
from behind their town office – be there
about 5.30am.
ORO BAY
Oro Bay is the province’s main port. It became
a major American base after the Japanese had
been prised out of Buna and Gona, though
the bustle of those days is long gone. Today
it’s a quiet place with occasional banana-boat
traffic up and down the coast, and two larger
boats travelling weekly to Lae.
If your ship doesn’t come in, it’s not a bad
place to hang out. The Oro Bay Guesthouse (s incl
meals K80) is on the water’s edge near the wharf,
but it’s a 30-minute walk around the bay to
the PMV boats.
The Edna Resort Centre (s incl meals K100) has
a few simple two-room bungalows. Contact
the Birdwing Butterfly Lodge (opposite)
for bookings.
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) has a
weekly boat to Lae (18 hours) and another
to Alotau (K120, economy class only) call-
ing at all ports in between including Tufi
(K105). Banana boats to Tufi (K50) run
if the winds aren’t too high and usually
leave mid-morning.
O R O P R O V I N C E • • O r o B a y 107
TUFI
Carefree and far away from the world, Tufi is
one of PNG’s best-kept secrets. On the stun-
ningly beautiful Cape Nelson, where steep-
sided rias penetrate the land like the fingers
of a grasping hand, this picturesque spot has
a more relaxed atmosphere than any city in
the country. Once home to fishing and rub-
ber industries, now the settlement heavily
relies on tourists drawn to the excellent Tufi
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Dive Resort.
The area, however, is much more than
CENTRAL, ORO
the resort. Several villages within two
hours of Tufi welcome guests to their bush-
material guesthouses, some of them set under
swaying palm trees beside sandy beaches,
which is a truly idyllic way to spend a few
days. If you’re around for the Queen’s
Birthday weekend in June you might catch
the Tufi Cultural Show (admission K175 for
three days), a relatively intimate singsing (cel-
ebratory dance/festival) with groups mainly
from Oro Province. Check www.tufidive.com
for dates.
The cape was formed by ancient eruptions
of its three volcanoes and the lava which
flowed down into the sea creating the rias,
for which the cape is now famous.
Sights & Activities
Diving is one of Tufi’s great attractions;
there is consistent 30m-plus visibility and
one diver we met said ‘there are more fish
than water out there’. Maloway, Cyclone Reef
and Marion Reef are memorable, and the
muck diving under Tufi wharf is exceptional.
Nearby are some WWII ships easily acces-
sible in shallow water, while the famous B17
‘Black Jack’ bomber is down the coast. For
a full list of dives, with pictures, see www
.tufidive.com/diving.html. Tufi Dive Resort
(p108) has dive boats and a fully equipped
dive shop. The dive season is from September
to May. From June to August, high winds
make diving difficult.
Local villages can provide outrigger canoes
(the standard form of transport) if you want
to go fishing, and the dive resort’s dive boat
also does fishing trips.
There is a network of tracks in the area
ideal for trekking. Many follow the ria
around the coast. Other tracks can be quite
difficult; you must be fit. Tufi Dive Resort
can arrange a guide and village stays, or you
could take your chances and ask around
 108 O R O P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d Tu f i Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u 109

THE PT BOATS OF TUFI MILNE BAY PROVINCE ALOTAU

Alotau is a sleepy little town built on the hill-
Tufi wharf, just in front of the resort, was used as a forward base for American PT boats, two At the eastern end of mainland PNG, the sides of the northern shore of Milne Bay. It
of which now rest about 40m down, at the bottom of the ria (fjord). It was a widely held view Owen Stanley Range plunges into the sea became the provincial capital in 1968 when
that these boats had been sunk by Japanese bombs, but Russ Hamachek, who served as a PT and islands are scattered across the ocean administrators were moved from overcrowded
boat captain at Tufi, wrote to Lonely Planet with the real story: ‘Two of our boats were refuel- for hundreds of kilometres further out. This Samarai Island.
ling at the dock and the red flag of Baker was properly hoisted to warn passers-by of the need is the start of the Pacific proper – tiny atolls, Alotau and the coastal strip either side
for caution. That took care of the US personnel, but was meaningless to a curious native. He coral reefs, volcanic islands, swaying palms played a pivotal role in the WWII Battle of
was a smoker and unknowingly tossed a lighted cigarette butt into the adjacent water, which and white beaches. It’s safe, secluded and Milne Bay (see p88) and there are several
had just been the recipient of a 100-octane gasoline spill, resulting in the loss of two highly memorials and relics here. The market, har-
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

unfailingly friendly.
valuable PTs.’ More than 435 islands give the province bour and a lookout near the hospital might
Divers can still see torpedoes and a machine gun on the bottom, and other relics are around 2120km of coastline, but poor transport soak up some time, after which you can just
CENTRAL, ORO

the bar at the Tufi Dive Resort. Hot, Straight & True is Hamachek’s novel about PT boat opera-
tions in New Guinea.
yourself. The villages and the resort can
arrange boats to pick you up at various loca-
tions at the end of your walk.
Orchids, birds and butterflies can also
been seen in the surrounding jungles and
again, Tufi Dive Resort can arrange guides
to view these.
Sleeping & Eating
Tufi Dive Resort (%323 3462 in Port Moresby, 275 3200
in Tufi; www.tufidive.com; s incl meals K290-330) Located
a short distance from the grassy airstrip, this
upmarket resort is wonderfully appropriate
to the area. It’s quiet, has comfortable chairs,
a friendly bar and a very relaxed atmosphere.
There is a broad-ranging library, video col-
lection and a great cliffside barbecue area
with spectacular views across the ria. The
rooms are all comfortable, but if you’re in
the budget range ask for Room 3. The food is
delicious. Diving is the main attraction and
reliable equipment (half/full day K50/100)
is available. An outer-reef trip (K145 per
dive) entices most people to go for a two-
dive outing. Open-water certification costs
K950 and there are plans to bring in a live-
aboard boat to access sites further afield.
There is a fun ria tour by boat and kayak,
and fishing, windsurfing and trekking can
be arranged. The resort encourages people
to get into the local villages and can connect
you with whichever you choose; see Around
Tufi, right.
Getting There & Around
Airlines PNG flies to and from Port Moresby
(K447) on Mondays and Fridays.
See p107 for information on small boats
to and from Oro Bay. Between Tufi and
Wanigela you can hire a banana boat (K90,
30 minutes). Getting to the villages around
Tufi is usually done on foot or by outrig-
ger canoe; you’ll be expected to help with
the paddling.
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) boats from
Alotau stop here on their weekly run be-
tween Alotau and Oro Bay.
AROUND TUFI
There are village guesthouses (s K90) that dot
the coastline either side of Tufi and you
could spend weeks wending your way along
the coast in this way. The accommodation
is basic, with mosquito nets and local food
(the seafood is tasty). Boat transfers cost
extra. The guesthouses can also arrange
fishing and snorkelling; bring your own
gear. It’s best, though not essential, to con-
tact them ahead, and this is done through
the Tufi Dive Resort (left).
Most of the villages offer treks, bird-
watching, snorkelling, fishing and par-
ticipation in singsings. Some of the better
options include the following:
Bauwame Guesthouse (30min dinghy ride to south
of Tufi) Standing on a coral reef, it offers great access to
impressive sites for snorkelling and bird-watching.
Jebo Guesthouse (1hr dinghy ride to south of Tufi)
Located on a white-sand beach in Sinofuka village.
Sinofuka literally means ‘pig and dog’! There’s a
waterfall where you can swim, and birds of paradise
can be seen.
Kamoa Beach Guesthouse (15min outrigger canoe
ride to the mouth of Tufi ria) Pretty beach.
Kofure Guesthouse (30min outrigger canoe ride to
north of Tufi) White sands, palm trees and the best food of
any of the villages.
infrastructure and limited arable land have
hindered the region’s development.
To many Australians, Milne Bay is
synonymous with the 1942 WWII bat-
tles fought here between Japanese and
Australian forces (see boxed text, p88).
Today the only bombs falling from above
are likely to be coconuts.
The far-flung Trobriand Islands are prov-
ing to be culturally resilient and as exotic
a destination as the father of modern an-
thropology, Bronsilaw Malinowski, first de-
scribed them to be.
Culture
Milne Bay is home to large numbers
of Polymesians or Motuans who have
successfully grafted traditional beliefs
onto contemporary church teachings,
which can be confusing for the uniniti-
ated. Witchcraft is widely respected and
still practised, especially on the islands.
Contract killings can still be arranged with
local witch doctors, who sometimes em-
ploy the spiritual powers of cyanide from
disused mining operations.
In most island societies landownership
falls under matrilineal lore; family rights
are passed down through the mother. Clan
leaders and the paramount chief are still
men, but behind the scenes women wield
considerable power.
In many of the region’s cultures, people
were traditionally buried standing up with
their heads poking out of the ground. Their
heads were then covered over by clay pots.
When the heads eventually separated from
the bodies, the pots were removed and the
skulls were then placed in a skull cave.
These caves are common in the area and
clay pots are a traditional (and popular)
regional artefact.
CENTRAL, ORO
soak up the atmosphere in what is one of
the most laid-back, secure and enjoyable
towns in the country. Spend a night drink-
ing with locals, nationals and expats alike,
and you’ll soon know what’s going on and
who’s going where.
Information
EMERGENCY
Ambulance (%641 1200)
Fire (%641 1055, 641 1014)
Police (%641 1391; Charles Abel Hwy)
INTERNET ACCESS
Besides the Alotau International Hotel
(available to nonguests), there is only one
other option.
Bayside Internet Cafe (%641 1490; Masurina Business
Centre, Charles Abel Hwy; per hr K26; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,
8am-12.30pm Sat)
MONEY
Bank South Pacific (%641 1284; h6am-6pm) Has
two ATMs; charges K50 for cashing travellers cheques.
Westpac (%641 1003) Has an ATM; charges K20 for
cashing travellers cheques. Currency exchange for euros,
and Australian, New Zealand and US dollars.
POST
Post Office (%641 1207; in the town centre)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Education Milne Bay (%6410146; emb@online
.net.pg) Local and international groups contact these
former schoolteachers to organise outdoor and cultural
programmes. Generally such tours focus on environmental
and community development utilising their impressive
Wanigili centre.
Gretta Kwasnicka-Todurawai (Napatana Lodge, p112)
Gretta is a veteran traveller and knows what independent
travellers need. She has produced a folder detailing all kinds
of excursions around Milne Bay. Gretta is very honest – she’ll
call a spade a fucking shovel – and a great PNG character.
 110 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u
ALOTAU
A B
INFORMATION
Bank South Pacific........................1 B2
Bank South Pacific........................2 B2
1 Bayside Internet Cafe.................(see 4)
Education Milne Bay....................3 A2
Masurina Business Centre............4 C2
Milne Bay Magic Tours................5 C2
Milne Bay Tourist Bureau.............6 C2
Police...........................................7 B2
Post Office...................................8 B2
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Westpac.......................................9 B2
11
CENTRAL, ORO
To Gurney Airport
(15km)
Charles Abel Hw
2 23
y
18
19
3
13 20
DRINKING
Cameron Club........................20 B2
Napatana Lodge Bar............(see 18)
Jetty........................................21 C3
3 SHOPPING
Barbara's Fashion Shop..........(see 4)
TRANSPORT
Air Niugini.............................(see 4)
Airlines PNG...........................22 B2
Avis.......................................23 A2
Malabu Cafe (%641 0900; malabu@online.net.pg;
Masurina Business Centre; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,
8am-1.30pm Sat) This kai bar is run by Rod and Serah
Clark who have affiliations with Butia Lodge on the
Trobriand Islands. They are a good source of information
for the islands but in their eagerness to get guests may
promise non-existent Milamala festivities.
Milne Bay Tourist Bureau (%641 1503; www
.milnebaytourism.gov.pg; Charles Abel Hwy; h8am-
4pm Mon-Fri) Hopelessly under-resourced centre, but the
friendly women here do a fantastic job in pointing travel-
lers in the right direction. They will answer your emails,
book accommodation, arrange village-stays, advise
on transport and keep you informed on the province’s
festivals.
Sights & Activities
The harbour is the most colourful part of town
and it’s worth exploring. There are one-man
canoes, brightly painted island boats, work
tugs and passenger vessels. The busy harbour
activity attests to it being the province’s main
cargo hub. For a bird’s-eye view of the har-
bour, walk up the steps in town to the hospital,
take the right fork and keep going for a couple
of hundred metres.
lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u 111
0 600 m DIVING nothing. She takes the hassle out of catching
0 0.4 miles
Alotau has some incredible diving – along the PMVs and, if you stay overnight, she’ll usu-
C D north coast, within the bay and around the ally stay with friends (but offer to cover her
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Napatana Lodge........................18 A2 islands. Unfortunately there are no longer any accommodation if need be).
Australian War Memorial...........10 C2 Saugere Guesthouse..................19 A2 diving operators based in Alotau itself (the last Milne Bay Magic Tours (%641 0711; milnebaymagic
Cameron Secondary School........11 A2
Dive Milne Bay..........................12 D3 EATING one returned to Japan after he became bent). tours@global.com.pg; Charles Abel Hwy) offers a range of
Island Adventure Tours..............13 A2 By the Bay Restaurant..............(see 14)
Malabu Cafe..............................(see 4)
Until another tender starts up, the only way tours including a WWII tour of the Battle of
SLEEPING Masurina Lodge Restaurant.....(see 17) to see some of these incredible seascapes is to Milne Bay and a creek bed filled with aban-
Alotau International Hotel..........14
Bayviews Apartments.................15
C2
D1
Napatana Lodge Restaurant.....(see 18) travel to Tawali Resort (p114), 1½ hours up doned Japanese landing craft. There are also
Beto Transit House.....................16 D2 the coast. Day trips to Tawali Resort can be tours of local bat caves and trips to Samarai
15
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Masurina Lodge.........................17 D2
arranged through Napatana Lodge (p112), the and Kwato Islands. Snorkelling gear can be
Milne Bay Tourist Bureau (opposite) or with rented here for K10.
CENTRAL, ORO
the resort directly. Island Adventure Tours (%641 1358; islandtours@
TOP TOWN Dive Milne Bay (%641 1421; divemb@online.net.pg; datec.net.pg) operates a glass-bottomed boat and
9 17 Charles Abel Hwy) no longer runs dive trips but it a basic guesthouse east of Alotau at Divinai
7
1 8 22 Hospital still fills tanks (K15) and hires scuba equip- village. Its office is based in the mustard-
2 27
28 ment (full kit K130). coloured house near Education Milne Bay.
Alotau 4 16
Market 29 5
From time to time, dive charter boats are
14
10 6 based here including the 10-berth Telita (www Festivals & Events
26
21 24 25 .telitadive.com), the MV Golden Dawn (www.goldendawn The Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Festival (first full
Star Ships &
Bay Cabs................................24 C3 Trade Boats Berth .com) and the Marlin 1 (www.marlin1charters.com.au), weekend in November) made a successful
PMV boats to Samarai Island..25 D3 Sanderson GOILANI a 50ft vessel specialising in research and hy- debut in 2004 and is definitely worth see-
Cha
PMV Boats to Waguwagu......26 B3 Bay
PMVs to the North Coast drographic survey charters. ing. Ocean-going barges bring canoes from
rles
& East Cape.......................27 B2 For more on diving see p58. as far away as Daru to compete for pride and
Ab
PMVs to the North Coast Milne Bay
el
12
& East Cape.......................28 C2 price money. Dozens of canoes, some with
Hwy
PMVs to South Coast & Gurney
Airport...............................29 B2
FISHING 40-plus warriors, adorned in traditional dress
Pool Room Taxis..................(see 27) For the sports fisherman, Milne Bay has a and paddling to the beat of island drums,
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships)..(see 4) To Ahioma (9km);
East Cape (56km) number of game fish worth trolling, jigging leaves a powerful impression. The races are
and casting for – giant marlin, sailfish, wahoo, held amidst much rivalry and celebrated
Back on the foreshore, the recently com- dogtooth tuna, mackerel, barramundi and with equally as much revelry. For details see
missioned Australian War Memorial has a de- the Papuan black bass. If you bring your own www.milnebayt ourism.gov.pg.
tailed description of the Battle of Milne Bay. tackle you could talk to local boat handlers The colourful Cameron Cultural Show (bien-
There’s a service here on 26 August every year, and arrange to hire your own dinghy for nially on even numbered years) is held on
commemorating the beginning of the Battle around K200 per day plus fuel. the first weekend of the third term of school.
of Milne Bay. The well-organised Milne Bay Game Fishing Parents travel to the high school’s cultural
At the other end of town, Cameron Secondary Club (%641 0496; iwilliams@global.net.pg) can ad- village to decorate their children and instruct
School welcomes visitors to its cultural village vise on boats and is happy to find some gear them on the finer techniques of traditional
in the afternoon between 2.30pm and 3.30pm for you, particularly during one of the regu- dance. Local art exhibitions and a beauty
when students have finished their studies and lar competitions or the annual Milne Bay pageant are also held. The Hagita Cultural Show
are free to show guests around. Donations Classic, which takes place on the first weekend (also biennially on even numbered years) is a
should be made to the school library and not of December. similar deal and held near the airport for the
to the students themselves. The other option is to clamber aboard a Catholic high school students.
There are several good black-sand swimming Driftwood (%641 1346, 641 0136; http://driftwoodpng
beaches to the east of town towards Ahioma, .com; half-/full-day fishing safari for 2 adults A$225/400) Sleeping & Eating
although they’re not obvious from the road. charter. Operating from a newly built bou- Apart from the kai bars in the centre of
PMVs run past and it’s dead easy to hitch a tique hotel (p112), Driftwood offers both town, with their usual fare of fried chicken,
ride along this stretch of road, though obvi- saltwater and freshwater fishing safaris using local veggies and greasy chips, the hotels
ously women should be more cautious. It’s quality Shimano equipment in a variety of and guesthouses are the only food and
possible to ride horses through the oil palm boats at a range of prices. drink options around. Mabewa, a fruit in-
plantations on the outskirts of town; contact digenous to Milne Bay, is sometimes sold at
Ken Fitzgerald (%686 5882) if you are keen, al- Organised Tours the town market.
though he can be notoriously difficult to get Florah Todurawai (%698 0738 or through Napatana Saugere Guesthouse (%/fax 641 0165; per person
hold of. Otherwise, ask the staff at either the Lodge p112; s excl travel costs per day 10K) is an excellent with/without 3 meals K120/50) Located on the water-
tourist bureau or at Napatana Lodge if they local guide. She accompanies tourists to any front west of Napatana, this is the cheapest
can help. of the destinations described here for next to place in town and has a casual and hospitable
 112 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u
atmosphere. There are two beds per room and
there are shared bathrooms.
Beto Transit House (%641 9110; s/d/f K60/75/90)
The rooms here are comfortably tired – a bit
tatty around the edges with a lived-in feel. It’s
popular with locals from the islands who like
to congregate around the small canteen. There
is a shared kitchen and bathroom.
Bayviews Apartments (%641 0401; bayviewspng@
daltron.com.pg; budget r K90, s K120-140, d K180; a)
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Expect a warm welcome, but cold water. The
budget rooms are in a self-contained house
CENTRAL, ORO
while the other rooms are larger, lighter and
airier, but still fairly basic. A toast-and-tea
breakfast and airport transfers are included
in the tariff. Meals (K20) are available and, if
you can arrange a group of 20, they will put
on a mumu (per person K25). Self-caterers
appreciate the large kitchen.
Education Milne Bay (%641 0146; emb@online.net
.pg; s incl 2 meals K115-160; i) Although primarily
geared towards groups on community devel-
opment courses, solo travellers can stay in one
of the 12 connecting rooms or stand-alone
bungalows if there’s room.
oNapatana Lodge (%641 0588; www.napa
tanalodge.com; Charles Abel Hwy; flashpackers s/d K80/160,
bungalows s/d/tr K200/240/260; a) Napatana is the
pick of Alotau’s accommodation, and now
that the ‘flashpackers’ have opened there is
something in most people’s budget. The flash-
packers are…well, flash. The rooms have their
own bathroom, cable TV, porch and tea-/
coffee-making facilities. The bungalows are
even more comfortable, with private balconies
and crisp, clean bedding. A huge drawcard is
the amount of information on hand and the
staff can help arrange any number of day or
overnight trips. Upstairs, the Napatana bar
(meals K25 to K45, open 7am to late) is the
place to rub shoulders with expats and nation-
als alike. There is always something going on –
a pub quiz, some kind of raffle, a joker night
or sport on the open air TV. Friday night’s
fish’n’chips (K22), Saturday night’s seafood
buffet (K45, and the crab is sublime) and the
Sunday roasts (K45) are all excellent. Meal
packages and weekend rates are available.
Masurina Lodge (%641 1212; www.masurina.com; incl
breakfast s K105-255, d K210-330; ais) The large,
ageing rooms and apartments are comfortable
enough and have a distinct feel of Australia
c 1973. Some of the apartments sleep five and
are ideal for families. Rates include laundry
and airport transfers. Its restaurant (meals
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
K35, open 7am to 8.30am, noon to 1.30pm
and 7pm to 9pm) serves a mix of tasty dishes
and every second Friday the barbecue buffet
(K25) located by the poolside bar is excellent
value. Meal packages and weekend discounts
are available.
Alotau International Hotel (%641 0300; www.alotau
internationalhotel.com.pg; Charles Abel Hwy; r K330;
ais) For size and facilities these rooms,
each with a balcony and bay view, are pretty
good. They are, however, more comfortable
than characterful. Babysitters can be arranged,
and there’s internet access (per 15 minutes K8).
The By the Bay Restaurant (meals K15 to K50,
open 6pm to 10pm) has a tasty if somewhat
eclectic mix of Western and Asian dishes as
well as pizza (K15 to K33).
Driftwood (%641 1346, 641 0136; http://driftwoodpng
.com; s A$240-300, d A$260-320) This boutique hotel
was still being built when we visited but will
be opened soon. Five minutes from town,
and having its own wharf and game-fishing
boats, Driftwood aims to cater to anglers keen
to hook into some of the bay’s marlin and
sailfish. There will be three beach and five
garden bungalows as well as an upmarket
Fisherman’s Wharf Restaurant jutting over
the water.
Drinking
Most travellers prefer to drink at their hotel
although there are two other places within
staggering distance of town.
Cameron Club (%641 1088; h4-10pm Mon-Thu,
to midnight Fri & Sat) Located near the waterfront
west of the centre is the local drinking hole.
It’s a large, cavernous space reminiscent of
a rugby clubhouse. There are some large
snooker tables in the corner and you can bor-
row racquets for the squash or tennis courts
(per 30 minutes K8) from the bar.
Jetty (Alotau International Hotel; h5pm-midnight Mon-
Sat) Although it’s built on a wharf, its pretty
location can at times be marred by the sound
of locals smashing their bottles against the
side of the building.
Shopping
Trobriand Islanders come to Alotau to sell
their carvings and they’ll find you around
town. Dive Milne Bay (%641 1421; divemb@online
.net.pg; Charles Abel Hwy) has the town’s best col-
lection of Trobriand lime pots, walking sticks
and bowls; all reasonably priced. There are
small handicraft shops at the top hotels.
lonelyplanet.com
Getting There & Away
AIR
As has been the case for years now, there
are rumours of an international flight be-
tween Cairns (Australia) and Alotau. Air
Niugini (%641 1031; Masurina Business Centre, Charles
Abel Hwy) has one or two flights between Port
Moresby and Gurney (K458, 50 minutes,
daily). The morning flights are more reliable
and have better onward connections in Port
Moresby.
Airlines PNG (%641 1591 in Alotau, 641 0013 in Gurney)
flies on Monday and Friday from Gurney
to Misima (K410), then returns to Gurney,
then flies to Losuia (K441) and then to Port
Moresby (K441).
BOAT
The prices listed here are for adults, one-
way. Children travel for half-price, students
get a 20% discount and families are entitled
to special fares. Apart from the Star Ships,
work boats service the trade stores on the
islands and offer uncomfortable, slow and
irregular trips to anywhere with a stoa (store).
Getting a ride can mean waiting around
wharves, asking about destinations and usu-
ally adding a few hours to the alleged de-
parture times. But once you are on the open
water, sitting atop a load of SP Lager, Kundu
Crackers and margarine, you will be feeling
the province’s charm – until you start feeling
very uncomfortable.
D’Entrecasteaux & Trobriand Islands Has weekly
departures for Salamo (K60), Budoya (K60), Wailagi
(K65), Mapamoiwa (K60), Kalokalo (K70), Boyama (K75),
Watuluma (K80) and Losuia (K105). It offers economy
class only.
North Coast The Samarai Queen travels north calling
at all ports to Oro Bay (for Popondetta, K120) including
Dogura (K75), Rabaraba (K75), Cape Vogel (K80) and Tufi
(K105). Economy class only.
Port Moresby & China Strait The Morobe Queen runs
to Port Moresby (economy/1st class/tourist K150/300/350,
overnight, Sundays) Travels via Samarai Island. It returns
on Tuesday, arriving Wednesday.
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %641 0012; mona@
pngbd.com; Masurina Business Centre, Charles Abel Hwy,
Gurney) Provides scheduled services throughout Milne Bay
Province, but inclement weather can cause long delays and
frequent disruptions.
PMV
PMVs run along the coast to East Cape (K7,
from 9am) and on to the north coast.
M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d A l o t a u 113
Getting Around
Alotau’s airport is at Gurney, 15km from
town, and was named after Bob Gurney,
an Australian who began flying for Guinea
Airways in 1929 and was killed in action with
the RAAF in 1942.
Taxis travelling to town cost K35, but most
hotels provide transfers for K20 to K25, or for
free. PMVs run to town from the nearby main
road (K3), but they’re infrequent. PMVs to
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
the airport leave from near the Bank South
Pacific. The best way into town is by simply
CENTRAL, ORO
asking someone for a lift. Remember that
although hitching a ride from the airport is
commonplace, foreigners (especially women)
should exercise careful judgment about from
whom they accept a ride.
Alotau is well-served by taxis. Bay Cabs
(%641 1093) is the main taxi company and
sometimes provides car hire. Others include
Pool Room Taxis (%698 0920; Chase Corp Bldg, Charles
Abel Hwy, Gurney); Gramp’s Taxi (%641 1557) and HT
Taxis (%641 9087).
Avis (%641 1273; Charles Abel Hwy) has opened an
office next door to Napatana Lodge.
AROUND ALOTAU
East Cape
East Cape is at the very eastern end of main-
land New Guinea. It’s a quiet but picturesque
village, where banana boats come and go for
Normanby Island (K25) and others, including
nearby Yamba Island with its famous 13-trunk
coconut palm (photo fee K20). There’s ter-
rific snorkelling and diving in this area and
a skull cave (K5), which is an hour’s walk
away. Guesthouses usually send a boy to show
the way.
Many people come here as a day trip from
Alotau. The first East Capebound PMV (K7)
departs Alotau around 10am and the last one
returns around 3pm, Monday to Saturday.
It’s about 1½ hours each way along a metal
road that passes many pretty villages and
black-sand beaches
If you are planning on snorkelling some
of the reefs, hire your gear and buy your own
zoom (petrol; buy 12 litres) in Alotau (where
it’s cheaper). Banana boats (dinghies) can be
hired (K30) at the water’s edge to motor you
to secluded beaches and reefs.
There are plans to make Nuakata Island,
a biodiversity ‘hot spot’, Milne Bay’s first
protected marine area. Two independent
marine reef surveys recorded 429 species of
 114 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t
reef coral; more than the variety found in the
entire Great Barrier Reef.
Opposite the Dulia Stoa, Bernhard’s
Guesthouse (s K25), is a simple beachside hut
that has a pleasant veranda. A little further
down the road, near the market, is the rus-
tic Oima Guesthouse (s K30), which has a couple
of very basic rooms. Both places can supply
sheets and simple meals (K10), but generally
it’s BYO all the way.
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Wagawaga
CENTRAL, ORO
On the southern shore of Milne Bay, this tiny
settlement in a cove often called Discovery
Bay sits below the steeply rising mountains of
the southern peninsula. It’s a popular day trip
for divers and snorkellers, who swim around
the mostly submerged Muscoota, a WWII coal
transport ship that sprang a leak and sank
here in 1946.
At the western end of the beach is a stream
where local women wash their dishes. The
freshwater eels here have grown horribly huge
on the scraps and for K5 to K10, the women
will allow you to pick up these monsters. Make
sure you bring fresh fish to attract them from
their lairs.
There are a number of waterfalls but some
of these, depending on the landowner’s dis-
position, may be off-limits. Warren Dipole
from Ulumani Lodge (see below) can arrange
guides as well as canoe trips up Dawadawa
River, which come highly recommended.
From Wagawaga there is a steep one-hour
walk to Moon Rock (Da’a Nawalahi), which
bears markings thought to have been made
by Europeans as a navigational aid. On the
way up you’ll pass a skull reputed to greet you
with a grin; one, two or even a full set of teeth
depending on how much it likes you. Take a
guide for the trip.
Enjoy the stunning panoramic views from
Ulumani Treetops Lodge (%/fax 641 0916; www
.pngbackpacker.com; s K80-180) that span over the
jungle and beyond to Milne Bay. If Warren
knows you are coming he’ll collect you from
the beach in his 4WD. Otherwise it’s a very
steep 30-minute (if you take the shortcuts)
walk to the lodge. Accommodation is in two
buildings: the upper is in the treetops, sleeps
eight (four comfortably), and has a great bal-
cony for bird-watchers. Down the hill is a
traditional-style building with its own balcony
but simpler rooms (single K80) and piping-
hot, communal showers. Mosquito nets are
lonelyplanet.com
provided which is just as well, as there are
planti mosquitoes in the wet. The meals (K10
to K20) are delicious and they are served on
the verandas. Warren has masks and snorkels
and can organise tours to all of the sights
mentioned previously.
PMV boats motor across the bay from the
market wharf (K5, 45 minutes, daily except
Sundays). They depart when everyone has
finished their day’s shopping between 3pm
and 4.30pm. Returning, they leave Wagawaga
around 7am.
You can drive from Alotau in about an
hour and Warren collects his guests from the
airport for K100 each way.
NORTH COAST
The north coast is a string of villages, beaches
and reefs that reward those who leave the
beaten track. There are several good walks, and
with time you could quite easily travel by foot,
PMV and dinghy all the way from East Cape to
Tufi. A growing number of villages have simple
accommodation, including, from east to west:
Boianai, Wagahuhu, Awaiama (Mahimahi
Plantation Guesthouse; just outside the village),
Wedau and Bogaboga at Cape Vogel.
You can walk from Rabaraba or Wedau
to Alotau partly on the coast road that takes
PMVs depending on the season. There are
many villages enroute so finding a bed is easy.
Rabaraba to Wedau takes two days, and from
Wedau to the tiny Taupota No 2 settlement
takes three easy days or two longer ones. Then
you can reach Alotau in a day by going south
across a low range, but it’s best to take a local
village guide. There are some other good
routes across the range. For an account of the
walk from Alotau to Wamira (near Wedau),
see www.michie.net/pnginfo/wamira.html.
Speak with Gretta at Napatana Lodge (p112)
or the Milne Bay Tourist Bureau (p110) to
contact the villages and any guides required.
PMVs operate from Alotau as far as Topura,
from where you need to walk or take dinghies
if you want to go further west.
Tawali Resort
On a coral fringed headland overlooking Hoia
Bay, Tawali Resort (%641 1167 in Alotau, 641 0922 in
Tawali; www.tawali.com; s/d incl dive & meals US$380/590;
a) is one of the best in PNG. The whole
resort lives and breaths diving and most guests
come here on diving packages (although
there are cheaper options for non-divers).
lonelyplanet.com
The resort is completely hidden from the sea,
but the views from the main building and
rooms are exceptional. A series of covered
boardwalks through tropical rainforest con-
nect the 15 bungalows. All of this solitude
comes at a price, and Australians booking
through tawali@bigpond.com sometimes
get better rates than Americans booking
through reservations@tawali.com.
DIVING
The Tawali Resort dive shop (%641 1167 in Alotau,
641 0922 in Tawali; coastal 2-tank dive US$80, outer-reef 3-tank
dive US$150) is excellent and the staff very profes-
sional. Dive courses are not offered here (yet)
although they do hire equipment and have
several dive boats, including two charters, at
their disposal. There are some impressive wall
drop-offs, overhangs and caverns along the
limestone coastline within a 20-minute boat
ride from Tawali. Most sites have abundant
soft and hard corals, sponges and masses of
reef fish. There are also a couple of muck-dive
sites nearby but arguably the best dive spots
are out on the open-water pinnacles with their
impressive pelagic action.
Occasionally (around August) there are
stingers in the water whose long, near invis-
ible, threads are impossible to avoid and leave
all exposed flesh red and welted. If your wallet
won’t quite stretch to staying the night, it
is possible to visit Tawali as a day trip from
Alotau. As Tawali is not accessible by road,
you will need to let the resort know you are
coming so the staff can send a car to bring you
to its wharf (1½ hours) and a boat to ferry you
to the resort (10 minutes). The transfer is K50
return per person.
Tawali Resort prefers to provide a buffet
lunch for its day-trippers. This is usually a
hot BBQ, but on the day we visited only a
cold buffet was served, which at K50 wasn’t
exceptional value.
Tawali also operates two charter dive
boats:
MV Chertan (www.chertan.com; per person per day
US$250) Sleeps 10 passengers and is popular with profes-
sional photographers and biologists who charter it for four
months annually.
MY Spirit of Niugini (www.spiritofniugini.com; per
person per day US$320-345) A well-appointed dive catama-
ran with large rooms and private bathrooms. Because the
catamaran can handle rough seas, it is possible to go as far as
the outer-reef chains of the Conflicts and Engineer Groups.
For more on diving see p58.
M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • S a m a r a i I s l a n d 115
SAMARAI ISLAND
Samarai is a speck of an island at the south-
ern tip of the Milne Bay mainland. Just 24
hectares in the China Strait (so named by
Captain John Moresby because he thought
it would be the most direct route from the
east coast of Australia to China), Samarai has
seen better times. In its colonial heyday it was
said to be one of the most beautiful places
in the Pacific and although no-one is saying
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
that now, it’s still a pretty place. It’s much
like an overgrown and untended garden that
CENTRAL, ORO
still retains a legacy of its former, ordered
beauty. The island predates Port Moresby
and was the provincial headquarters until
1968, when local government realised it had
outgrown the tiny island and left for greener
pastures. Two years later the international
wharf closed and the town’s been going to
seed ever since.
Before WWII it was the second-largest
town in PNG, but in 1942 the Australian ad-
ministration destroyed almost every building
in anticipation of a Japanese invasion that
never came (whoops). Its postwar reincarna-
tion was built in Australian country-town
style. A path encircles the island and you can
stroll around it in half an hour.
Unfortunately there is little in the way of or-
ganised trade since the last trade store closed
in early 2005; be sure to pack enough food,
water and beer for the duration of your stay.
Wallace Andrew, in the house southwest of
the Christopher Robinson memorial, is a good
source of local information. He’s a Kwato
Island old boy, grandson of a cannibal, local
identity and fascinating character to listen to
(you won’t do much talking).
Sights & Activities
The main thing to do on Samarai is just
wander around soaking up the faded-glory.
From the wharf, head toward the hill and,
at the northeast corner of the sportsground,
you’ll pass the memorial to Christopher Robinson,
the one-time administrator who committed
suicide in 1904. The inscription notes he was
‘as well meaning as he was unfortunate and
as kindly as he was courageous’ and that ‘his
aim was to make New Guinea a good place
for white men.’ Near the southeast corner
of the grounds, a road leads up to the aban-
doned hospital and, just north of here, a small
hill with great views of the island and China
Strait. Near the sportsground, and south of
 116 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • N e a r S a m a r a i I s l a n d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • D ’ E n t re c a s t e a u x I s l a n d s 117

the wharf, is Samarai’s oldest-surviving build-
ing, the Anglican church.
Even if you don’t climb the hill, you simply
must go snorkelling or diving around the rot-
ting piers of the Samarai Island Wharf, which has
become a world-famous muck-diving site. The
marine life is incredible and as you drift care-
fully between the piers you’ll be surrounded
by schools of brightly coloured fish. Below
them, pipefish and various odd nudibranchs
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
that the last of the nearby cannibal tribes
was ‘saved’.
If you follow the old tree-lined road until it
clears the forest, you’ll come to a stonewalled
church that was built in 1937 from materials
brought from Scotland. The Kwato Church
suffered a decline in the 1970s and stands
today as a testimony to the missionary of a
bygone era.
Boats to Kwato can be caught from Samarai
KULA RING
Extending around the islands of Milne Bay Province is an invisible circle, or kula ring, that binds
the islands together in a system of ritual exchange. The ring encompasses the Trobriand, Muyua
(Woodlark), Louisiade, Samarai and D’Entrecasteaux islands. Things have changed now, but in the
past, the kula ring involved the trade of red-shell necklaces, called bagi or soulava, in a clockwise
direction and white shell armlets, mwali, in an anticlockwise direction. Each trader had a kula
partner on their nearest neighbouring island in each direction. Once a year, the trader and a
delegation from his clan journeyed to the island of his kula partner to receive gifts in elaborate
public ceremonies. On a separate significant date he would be visited by another kula partner who

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

can be seen. The bottom is also littered with Island Wharf. would be presented with the prized gifts. Accompanying these voyages were other ceremonial
the detritus of history, but don’t be tempted At Doini Island, a privately owned and stun- objects and surplus fish and yams to be exchanged with neighbouring islands. Since the bagis and
CENTRAL, ORO

to ‘rescue’ anything more than the rubbish. Be
sure to bring a snorkel and mask.
Sleeping & Eating
If you don’t fancy your chances of making
friends with the locals, there is only one place
to stay on Samarai Island. At the top of the
stairs leading up from the north side of the
sports ground, Bwanasa Women’s Association
Guesthouse (%642 1042; r per person K70; meals K12-
16) is rapidly approaching ‘run down’ but the
staff here are fantastically friendly. The rooms
are simple and the shared bathrooms have
only cold water; all of this is in keeping with
the derelict and abandoned atmosphere of the
island itself. If there’s no-one around when
you arrive, ask in the neighbouring houses
and they’ll rouse someone up.
Getting There & Away
The easiest way to get to the island is to
jump aboard one of the public dinghies at
Sanderson’s Bay (K25, 1½ hours, daily except
Saturday). The boats depart Alotau around
3pm and return between 7am to 8am the
next morning.
NEAR SAMARAI ISLAND
China Strait and the surrounding islands have
a reputation for witchcraft and, despite the
influence of missionaries, superstitions lin-
ger. Strange lights, ghost ships and sirens (the
singing kind) all crop up.
Just 3km west of Samarai, Kwato Island was
once an educational centre and home to a
thriving boat-building industry. The rem-
nants of the old machinery lie where they
were discarded in the tall grass and today the
island can be eerily quiet.
The Reverend Charles Abel and his wife,
Beatrice, founded a non-hierarchical church
in 1891. Even though they ‘belted’ the
Bible pretty hard, it wasn’t until the 1930s
ningly beautiful place about 10km southeast
of Samarai, it’s possible for overnight stays
with Milne Bay Magic Tours (p111).
Not far west of Doini Island is Gona Bara
Bara Island, and just off the northwest shore
is a dive site known as the Manta Ray Cleaning
Station. Just a few metres below the sur-
face, there is an isolated bommie (a natural
spire, covered in coral, rising from the sea
floor). Around the bommie giant, graceful
mantas (some with wing spans of up to 5m)
are cleaned by tiny wrasses; it is one of the
best places on earth to see this happening.
Snorkelling is also possible, though high
winds make it (and diving) difficult between
June and September. Unfortunately only dive
charters are visiting here although it may be
possible to arrange a snorkelling trip with
local boat operators in Samarai Island.
Galahi Island, just off Sariba Island, has seen
a small trickle of travellers who visit the pretty
seaside village here. Galahi Village Stay offers
accommodation, meals, fishing, swimming,
snorkelling, trekking and bird-watching op-
portunities around the island. Contact Jeff
Kinch through Napatana Lodge (p112) in
Alotau. It should be possible to stay in other
villages on many of the islands in the area,
including Logea Island (Rogeia) and Sariba.
D’ENTRECASTEAUX ISLANDS
Scattered across a narrow strait from the
PNG mainland, the D’Entrecasteaux group
was named by French explorer Antoine
d’Entrecasteaux, who sailed through in 1793
while searching for his missing compatriot,
La Pérouse. The three principal islands, from
northwest to southeast, are Goodenough
(Nidula), Fergusson (Moratau), and Normanby
(Duau). The islands are extremely mountain-
ous, covered by dense jungle and contain a
number of active geothermal fields. Sanaroa
and Dobu are the most significant of the
mwalis rarely left the circle, this system ensured a distribution of wealth among the islanders.
The exchange mostly occurred between traditional families of high status and thus helped to
reinforce clan-based hierarchies. Today some people are required to journey to the island home
of a traditional kula partner bearing ritual gifts in a banana boat rather than the traditional
sailing canoe.
smaller islands but there are numerous reefs,
shoals and atolls.
D’Entrecasteaux islanders are still largely
subsistence horticulturalists, living in small,
traditional villages and fishing the coastal
waters. People of this area participated in the
kula ring of exchange (see above) and trav-
elled widely to other islands in their sea-going
sailing canoes.
The whole archipelago is off-the-beaten-
track travel at its best. It can be difficult to
contact anyone on the islands because the
phones rarely work. Try the Milne Bay Tourist
Bureau (p110) instead. If you are happy with
basic island accommodation, you could spend
weeks exploring coastal villages, sleeping with
families on sleeping mats and sharing their
food. To mount such an expedition, hire
one of the dinghies at East Cape (K150 per
day, including crew), stock it with a couple
of drums of petrol (brought in Alotau where
it’s cheaper), some 1kg bags of rice and tinned
fish and follow the whales, dolphins or dug-
ongs which live here.
Getting There & Away
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships, p107) has a
weekly service to all three principal islands
which includes port of calls at Salamo on
Fergusson and Esa’ala on Normanby. Easier
to organise are the dinghies that run early
afternoons from East Cape across to Sewa
Bay, Normanby Island. Let the captain know
about your intended destination as these pub-
lic boats travel to many destinations other
than Saidowai. It is also possible to travel
CENTRAL, ORO
between Doidoi on Goodenough Island and
Cape Vogel on the mainland’s north coast.
If the seas are rough, consider your options
carefully as boats have been swamped and
their passengers drowned.
Airlines PNG no longer flies to these
islands.
Normanby Island
Esa’ala, the district headquarters, is at the en-
trance to the spectacular Dobu Passage. It’s a
tiny place, with a couple of stores, a market
and a trade store. A reef just offshore offers
excellent snorkelling.
The friendly Esa’ala Guesthouse (call the district
office %641 1217; s incl meals K85) is on the beach
near the main wharf, and Tom Inman B&B Esa’ala
(%641 1209) is a pleasant place run by Tom’s
son David. Ask for either place and you’ll soon
be pointed in the right direction.
One of the most accessible and picturesque
bays in the region is Sewa Bay, a 45-minute
boat ride (K25) from East Cape. During
WWII the Allies based warships here among
seven tiny islands in the harbour. The beauti-
ful Goldie’s bird of paradise is endemic to the
island and can be seen at the Buyeti display
site (a three-hour walk from Sibanai), but
you’ll need a guide to show you where it’s
located. Snorkelling around the tiny islands
of Emanalo, Autoyou and Touwe is particu-
larly rewarding because of the extremely high
biodiversity found in these waters. There is a
guesthouse at Bunama village that provides
dinghies and canoe trips to the reefs that sur-
round the village.
 118 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s
In Saidowai village, in the northern corner
of the bay, local activist Mombi Onesimo
is encouraging tourism as an alternative to
Malaysian rosewood logging. His Saidowai
Guesthouse (contact Napatana Lodge %641 0588; dm/s/d
K30/80/100) is an excellent place to base yourself
as Mombi arranges guides to local attractions,
snorkelling trips, canoe-fishing expeditions
and treks to see Goldie’s bird of paradise and
the Bwasiaiai hot springs. The guesthouse is
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
constructed from traditional materials of Sago
Palm roofing and thatched palm walls and
CENTRAL, ORO
meals are provided (K5 to K30).
It’s possible to walk to Esa’ala from
Saidowai overnighting in a series of guest-
houses along the way. Ask Mombi for details,
but there are guesthouses at Sibanai, Welala,
Bwakera, Poponawai and Ulowai Beach. All
of these guesthouses are within a day’s walk
from one another and provide meals, however
you will need to bring bedding, a mosquito
net and torch.
Fergusson Island
Fergusson is the largest island in the group
and the highest peak is 2073m, with two other
lower ranges from which the island’s many
rivers and streams flow. It is notable for its
hot springs, bubbling mud pools, spouting
geysers and extinct volcanoes.
The hike from Warluma to the caldera
of Mt Lamanai takes about 1½ hours and af-
fords fantastic views over an immense crater.
Take a local guide (ask around to arrange for
one). Particularly active thermal springs can
be found at Deidei, opposite the main town
of Salamo.
The Salamo United Church Women’s Guesthouse
(contact Wesley High School %641 1715; s incl meals K90)
has been renovated recently. If staff don’t
know you’re coming, bring some supplies.
Boats cross the beautiful Dobu Passage
between Esa’ala and Salamo daily and
cost K5.
Goodenough Island
The most northwesterly of the group,
Goodenough is one of the most steeply sided
islands on earth, with Mt Oiautukekea reach-
ing 2566m at the summit. There are fertile
coastal plains flanking the mountain range
and a road runs around the northeast coast
through Vivigani, site of the major airstrip in
the group. Bolubolu is the main settlement,
about 10km south of Vivigani. In the centre
lonelyplanet.com
of the island there is a large stone, covered in
mysterious black-and-white paintings, which
is said to have power over the yam crops. The
Bolubolu Guesthouse charges K90 per person
with meals.
TROBRIAND ISLANDS
In 1914 a young anthropologist called
Bronsilaw Malinowski set sail for the impos-
sibly remote Trobriand archipelago. When
WWI broke out, he suddenly found himself
cut off from the outside world and, being an
Austrian Pole in a British controlled area,
unable to leave. The story goes that not being
sure which side he was on (or even wanted to
be on), he spent the next three years immersed
in his fieldwork. On his eventual return, that
fieldwork bore fruit as one of the most famous
and influential books in anthropology, The
Argonauts of the Western Pacific.
Despite the dozens of anthropologists, mis-
sionaries, TV crews and tourists who have since
followed Malinowski, the Trobriands remain
one of the most culturally intact places you
could possibly find. Although an understand-
ing of reproduction and modern medicines
is common, islanders still maintain a world
view that includes the belief that in order for a
woman to become pregnant, she must first be
infused with the spirit of a departed ancestor.
A strict matrilineal social system, enormous
and highly decorated yam houses, exquisite
carvings and the colourful festivals of clan
prestige will keep your head turning
Known locally as the Trobes, the people
take their name from Denis de Trobriand,
an officer on D’Entrecasteaux’s expedition.
The Trobriands are low-lying coral islands,
in contrast to their mountainous south-
ern neighbours. Trobriand Islanders have
a distinct Polynesian appearance and there
are scattered remains of stone temples that
resemble those of Polynesia. Trade between
the islands had strong cultural and economic
importance, and the pre-European traders
crossed vast distances of open sea in canoes,
exchanging fish, vegetables, pigs, stone axes,
a rare jadelike stone from Muyua (Woodlark)
Island and volcanic glass from Fergusson
Island. The kula ring (p117) is the most fa-
mous of these trade routes.
It’s good manners to let the paramount
chief know you have arrived. If you are there
for reasons other than tourism, you should
request an audience with him to explain why
lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s 119
you’ve come. It’s enough to ask almost anyone but if it does, it will probably be as reliable
to pass on the message to the chief; it will as the temperamental telephone network.
reach him.
INFORMATION
Festivals The Konki Enterprises (%643 9000) and Digogwa
Mention to any mainlander that you are off to Trading (%643 9001) stores in Losuia are your
see the Milamala Festival and you’ll be greeted best sources of information. Ask at these
with raised eyebrows, queasy smirks and any places about any cricket matches, weddings,
number of puns along the lines of exactly mortuary feasts or any other festivities that
whose yams are ripe for harvesting. Ever since it may be possible to visit. Rebecca Young
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Malinowski published his provocatively titled from Digogwa is particularly helpful and can
The Sexual Life of Savages in North-Western arrange singsing groups and a ‘mini-milamala’
CENTRAL, ORO
Melanesia (1929), the West has been fasci- with her village contacts. There are no banks
nated with (some say, fantasising about) the here, but both stores change Australian and
thought of free love with sex-starved, bare- US dollars at poor rates. Konki has connec-
breasted maidens in a tropical paradise. tions to Butia Lodge and Digogwa is owned by
However on the island it’s more about the the same family who run Kiriwina Lodge.
yams and the celebration of a bountiful crop.
Yams are harvested and stored between June
and August. The crop yield (along with the KIRIWINA ISLAND
0 10 km
chief’s whim and, increasingly, monetary 0 6 miles
incentives from the government) dictate
whether or not there will even be a Milamala. SOLOMON SEA
For exact dates see www.milnebaytourism.gov Kaibola
Labai
.pg, but treat even this information as un- Tawema Kalopa Cave
Matawa
reliable. In 2007, despite widely published Kudawaga
Kuluvitu Liluta
programmes, no festival was held. Kwailbwaga
Omarakana Temple
When it is held, the Milamala may cul- Kaileuna I Yalaka Obweria
Bweka
Ruins
Losuia Airport
minate in a week or two of canoe racing, Butia
Village
Resort
Boitalu
cricket matches, ribald dancing and, yes, free Kaisiga
Lodge Ialungwa
Moligilagi
love. Before you get too excited, it’s worth Losuia Mulau Bay
noting that visitors with boiling loins usu- Kiriwina
Okaiboma
ally have to make their own entertainment Lodge Tukwaukwai
because, while yams are considered objects
Baimapu I
of great beauty, dim dims (white people) Wagwama
Bay
are not. Wawela
Kiriwina Island
Kiriwina I
The largest of the Trobriand Islands is
Kiriwina, which is home to the district capi-
Sinaketa
tal of Losuia and the airstrip. Kiriwina is rela-
Bwadela
tively flat, although there is a rim of low hills
(uplifted coral reefs) along the eastern shore. Yaga I
The central plain is intensely cultivated and,
with the island’s population growing fast, SOLOMON SEA
there are concerns that cutting trees to plant Nanauli I
gardens will devastate the island.
The airport is in the north, where the Gilibwa ge
as sa
US Air Force had two bases during WWII. m
ak
aP
South of here, on the west coast, Losuia is i la
s
Ka
the only real town and is generally known
Vakuta I
as ‘the station’. It has a wharf, police sta-
tion, health centre and two trade stores. It’s Vakuta
more like a sprawling village than a town.
Electricity is rumoured to be coming soon
 120 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s 121

YAMS, SEX & CRICKET
Bronislaw Malinowski’s celebrated books, The Argonauts of the Western Pacific, Coral Gardens and
Their Magic and The Sexual Life of Savages in North-Western Melanesia, were published after WWI,
and revealed much about the intricate trading rituals (p117), yam cults and sexual practices of
the Trobriand Islands. Malinowski found a matrilineal society, in which the chief’s sons belong
to his wife’s clan and he is succeeded by one of his oldest sister’s sons. The society is strictly
hierarchical, with distinctions between hereditary classes and demarcations in the kind of work
each person can perform.
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
looks and short grass skirts, but it led to the inaccurate idea that the Trobriands were some sort
of sexual paradise. The sexual customs are different to many other places, but are not without
their own complicated social strictures.
Teenagers are encouraged to have as many sexual partners as they choose until marriage,
when they settle down with the partner who is chosen as suitable and compatible. Males leave
home when they reach puberty and move into the village bukumatula (bachelor house). Here,
they are free to bring their partners back at any time, although they usually opt for somewhere
more private. Even married couples, subject to mutual agreement, are allowed to have a fling
or two when the celebrations for the yam harvest are in full swing.

& MILNE BAY PROVINCES

Yams Aside from all this activity, it’s said that few children are born to women without permanent
Yams are far more than a staple food in the Trobriands – they’re a sign of prestige and expertise, partners. The people do not believe there is a connection between intercourse and pregnancy –
CENTRAL, ORO

and a tie between villages and clans. The quality and size of your yams is important. Many hours
are spent discussing yam cultivation, and to be known as a tokwaibagula (good gardener) is a
mark of great prestige.
The yam cult climaxes at the harvest time, which is usually July or August. The yams are first
dug up in the gardens then displayed, studied and admired. At the appropriate time, the men
carry the yams back to the village, with the women guarding the procession.
In the villages, the yams are again displayed before being packed into the highly decorated
yam houses. Each man has a yam house for each of his wives and it is his brother-in-law’s
responsibility (in other words, his wife’s clan’s obligation) to fill his yam house. The chief’s yam
house is always the biggest, most elaborate and first to be filled.
Sex
Malinowski’s tomes on the Trobriand Islanders’ customs led to Kiriwina Island being given the
misleading title of the ‘Island of Love’. It is not surprising that such a label was applied by inhib-
ited Europeans when they first met Trobriand women, with their free-and-easy manners, good
CENTRAL, ORO
a child’s spirit, which floats through the air or on top of the sea, chooses to enter a woman,
often through her head.
All this apparent freedom has negligible impact on visitors. Freedom of choice is the bedrock
of Trobriand Islands life, so why would any islander choose some unattractive, pale dim dims
who can’t speak like a civilised human, doesn’t understand the most fundamental laws and will
probably be gone tomorrow?
Cricket
Trobriands Islands cricket developed after missionaries introduced cricket as a way of taking
the islanders’ minds off less-healthy activities. It’s since developed its own style, which is quite
unlike anything the Melbourne Cricket Club ever had in mind. There is no limit to the number
of players, meaning you can wait days for a bat. Trobriand cricket is played with much dancing,
singing and whistle blowing, making it rather difficult to concentrate on line and length. When
asked what the song meant it was translated to us as ‘I don’t know why we are dancing, the fool
is already out!’ If there’s a game scheduled while you’re there, don’t miss it!

AROUND THE ISLAND

Going north from Losuia is ‘inland’ to the
locals. This area has most of the island’s roads
and villages. Omarakana, about halfway be-
tween Losuia and Kaibola, is where the is-
land’s paramount chief resides. You’ll know
you’re there by the large, intricate, painted
yam house and the couple of cars outside his
Western-style bungalow built on stilts. He
can often be found sitting on a chair under
his house, surrounded by his clansmen. The
paramount chief presides over the island’s oral
traditions and magic and strictly maintains
his political and economic power. He also
oversees the important yam festival and kula
rituals. As a sign of respect, keep your head
lower than his and consider bearing a gift of
betel nut or cigarettes.
Megaliths made of a coral composite
have linked the Trobriands to possible early
Polynesian migrations. You can see them, but
not without a guide – speak with Bweka Village
Resort (opposite) or Butia Lodge (opposite).
At Kaibola village, at the northern tip of
Kiriwina, you can swim and snorkel at the
picture-postcard beach, though much coral
has died recently. About 1½ hours’ walk from
Kaibola is Kalopa Cave, near Matawa village.
There are several deep limestone caves hous-
ing burial antiquities and skeletal remains.
Stories are told of Dokanikani, a giant whose
bones are said to be buried with those of his
victims in one of the caves. PMVs run from
Losuia to Kaibola (K3, one hour, several
times daily).
The road south of Losuia is dotted with
villages but seldom sees motorised transport.
Wawela is on a beautiful, curving sand beach
edging a cool, deep, protected lagoon. On
a falling tide, beware of the channel out to
sea from the bay: the current can be very
strong. To get here you’ll need to rent a bike
from Butia Lodge or charter a PMV for a
few hours.
War relics, including the scattered remains
of a couple of planes, can be seen near Butia
Lodge (opposite); ask the gatekeeper to show
you around.
Of the islands off Kiriwina, Kaileuna Island
is the easiest and cheapest to access as boats
carrying buai (betel nut) travel from Losuia
most days. The villages of Kaisiga, in the south,
and Tawema to the north have beautiful white-
sand beaches and predictably relaxed locals.
Ask around the wharf from about 10am to see
if a boat is going.
The offshore islands are worth visiting if
you are lucky enough to find a boat full of
people going that way. Labi Island is particu-
larly nice for swimming, as is the larger Kitava
Island. If you wish to hire a boat ask around
the wharf although as fuel prices are sky high
it won’t be cheap.
SLEEPING & EATING
Village Birth Attendant Centre (VBA; call the district of-
fice %641 1501; s K30) It would be difficult to find
more basic accommodation than these five
single rooms that are a five-minute walk from
Losuia. All rooms are ultrabasic and, without
a fan, can be pretty warm. On the plus side,
your money supports the whole community.
Meals are an additional K20.
Bweka Village Resort (contact Angela in Port Moresby
%323 5088, fax 323 5079; jk.bweka@gmail.com; s/d incl 3
meals K80/120) The owner, John Kasaipwalova, is
the chief of Bweka and, consequently, has ac-
cess to a large local network. He is an eloquent
conversationalist, explaining local protocols
and is skilled at dovetailing his tours into vil-
lage festivals. There is no electricity here and
washing is in a sacred cave of crystal-clear
water. The cavernous dining area could seat
40, but he has only enough mattresses for a
few guests.
Cindarella’s (contact Losuia District Treasury Office,
%275 6114; s incl meals K90) Opposite the cricket
field (to the west), big-smiling widow Cindy
and her daughter Janet have opened their
home to visitors. The small house has two bed-
rooms, sleeps three or four, and is the heart of
her extended family’s compound. There is al-
ways a ‘boy’ on hand to show you around and
the home-cooked meals are a treat!
Kiriwina Lodge (%643 9009; s/d incl 2 meals K150/210;
a) When we visited, the rooms were being
given a lick of paint but still seemed overpriced,
decaying and uninviting. However the lodge
does have its own double cab truck and is a
better position than most to transport you
around the island.
Butia Lodge (%641 0900 in Alotau, 643 9020 in
Losuia; malabu@online.net.pg; s/d incl 2 meals K175/255)
Located near the airport, on either side of an

122 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s
abandoned WWII-era airstrip, Butia Lodge
is the cleanest and most comfortable accom-
modation on the island. The staff are friendly
although their apathy can be frustrating if
they are unable to organise the tours that
they promise. Guests sometimes complain
that they end up stranded far from town
while staying here. The lodge has its own van
but at the time of research this was waiting
on parts. The restaurant and bar (meals K20,
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
open breakfast, lunch and dinner) are in an
attractive, open-sided building supported
CENTRAL, ORO
by 18 posts, each carved with a Trobriand
legend. The food is superb, mixing traditional
vegetables (yes, yams), fish and masses of
mouth-watering mud crabs.
Village Stays
Most visitors opt to stay at least one night in
a village and find it a fantastic experience.
Certainly you must be prepared to pay for
what you use (hardly a shocking concept for
good, capitalist tourists), but be sure to estab-
lish what you’re (not) paying for in advance
with the village chief.
Butia Lodge (p121) arranges village stays
at Kaibola and Mweuya for about K60 per
night, including basic food, and will transport
you to and from the village. The transport
and having an English-language speaker is
an advantage here.
You could arrange it yourself by speaking
with the chief of the village that you’d like to
stay in. Friendly Emanuel Tosieru runs three
traditional-style rooms (s incl meals K60) on stilts at
Kaibola Beach. Contact K Nimrod Tutumla
at Okaiboma to spend the night in one of the
basic beach huts (s incl meals K80) there. Almost any
other village will take you – just ask.
For more on staying in villages, see
p284.
SHOPPING
Trobriand Islands carvings are famous
throughout PNG. Certain villages specialise in
certain styles, ranging from bowls and stools
to elaborately carved walking sticks. The best
carvings are made from ebony, and much of
what you see will be decorated with pearl-shell
inlays. Ebony is an extremely hard and brittle
timber, and difficult to work.
A master carver is a position of high pres-
tige in the Trobriands and, like dancers, sing-
ers and many other roles, is a role bestowed
upon people at birth. A carver cannot fell his
lonelyplanet.com
own timber, as this role belongs to another,
and must purchase it from the landowner
where it is grown.
Obweria village specialises in intricately
carved walking sticks and bowls. A good walk-
ing stick might cost K200 to K300 or more.
Bwetalu village produces particularly fine stools
although these can be quite bulky and difficult
to transport.
Yalaka village sells striking lime pots that
are small and easy to carry. These gourds are
decorated with a distinctive black pattern
that runs around the girth of the gourd and
are fitted with a boar’s tusk stopper. Most
pots are around K10, depending on size and
quality, and a must for the discerning betel
nut chewer.
Other than carvings and lime pots, you
can get shell money and doba (banana leaf
money incised with patterns); still used by
some women as negotiable currency.
Artisans meet arriving planes hoping to sell
their wares and sometimes beautiful bowls
can be found here. Butia Lodge has a small
range of high-quality carvings, and they’re
all priced fairly.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Airlines PNG flies between both Losuia
and Gurney (from Alotau, K431) and Port
Moresby (K657) on Mondays and Fridays.
These flights are often late or cancelled.
Weather permitting, Star Ships sails the
Samarai Queen from Alotau to Losuia (K105,
19 hours) and back every weekend. The boat
departs Alotau 9am on Friday and arrives
at Losuia midday on Saturday. It returns to
Alotau on Sunday morning.
The two main trade stores in Losuia run
work boats to Alotau every fortnight or so.
They charge about K60 for the trip, which takes
two days (stopping in the D’Entrecasteaux
Islands for the night) and you’ll need to
bring your own food and water. Ask at Konki
Enterprises (%643 9000) or at Digogwa Trading
(%643 9001), which are also the agents for
Airlines PNG.
GETTING AROUND
Although the island’s few PMVs meet all ar-
riving flights, they are otherwise infrequent.
Getting out to the various villages can be a
considerable problem if your accommodation
is unable to arrange transport. Groups may
be advantaged by hiring a vehicle on a daily
© Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • L o u i s a d e A r c h i p e l a g o 123
basis (K200) – talk to the trade store about this economy is feeling the pinch with the de-
possibility. Almost all private vehicles (there commissioning of a major gold and silver
aren’t many) operate as de facto PMVs. mine in 2004.
Most of Kiriwina’s main roads are in fairly Local sights include a clifftop skull cave,
good condition and, if Butia Lodge (p121) which is a 20-minute drive from Bwagoia, and
have got their bikes sorted, cycling is a great bushwalks to the waterfall near Bwagabwaga.
way to see the island. Contact Joyce Fifita at Misima Island Resort
(below), who can arrange visits to a local
LOUISADE ARCHIPELAGO school and boys to show you around Bagilina
This archipelago received its name after Louis village. The snorkelling near the offshore is-
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Vaéz de Torres’ 1606 visit, but was probably lands is superb, although you will need to
known to Chinese and Malay sailors much bring your on equipment.
CENTRAL, ORO
earlier. Rossel (Yela) Island is the most west- In Alotau, Gretta at Napatana Lodge (p112)
erly inhabited island. The Calvados chain and is a good source of information about these is-
Conflict group are a long chain of islets and reefs lands and some of her staff (including Mickee)
between Sudest and the mainland and make have contacts there.
navigation through the province an exacting Misima Island Resort (contact Joyce Fifita%643 7052)
and often dangerous operation. is a 15-minute walk from town and has clean,
bungalow-style accommodation. In Bwagoia
Misima Island try Misima Guesthouse (contact Elivda Killia%643 7443;
Mountainous Misima Island is the most im- s K90), which has tidy, fan-cooled rooms and
portant in the group, with the district head- home-cooked meals (K10 to K12), or Jeb’s
quarters at Bwagoia. Not many travellers Guesthouse (contact Ellice Brome%643 7059).
make it to Misima although those who do Airlines PNG flies to and from Port
report of unfailingly friendly people and Moresby (three hours) via Gurney (K410, 40
several accommodation options. The local minutes) on Monday and Fridays.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
124 lonelyplanet.com
HISTORY
Morobe & Madang Ancient axe heads that have been found sug-
gest people have been living in this part of
PNG for about 40,000 years. Simbai settle-
Provinces ments date back 15,000 years. Bilbil and Yabob
people in Madang Province are famous for
their pots, which they’ve been trading with
Morobe peoples and Highlanders for eons.
If you have just rolled down the pot-holed roads of the Highlands on an arse-spanking The first European to spend any length
PMV, Morobe and Madang, with their beaches and bays, will be as welcome as a shot of of time on the PNG mainland was Russian
quinine after a bout of malaria. biologist Nicolai Miklouho-Maclay. He ar-
rived at Astrolabe Bay, south of the present
Geographically speaking they are similar – both rise from pristine beaches and bays of site of Madang, in 1871 and stayed for 15
months before leaving to regain his health,
Papua New Guinea’s northern coast into a series of thickly forested hills, imposing mountain
which was badly affected by malaria. He came
ranges and, ultimately, the Highlands.
on two more visits. Maclay’s relations with
local people were remarkably good and his
But that is where their similarities end. Lae is the abandoned child of the 1920s and
studies make fascinating reading.
1930s gold-rush era and she grew up hard. In the ‘40s she was invaded by the Japanese Arguably the most rapid change, how-
and bombed by the Allies. Today Lae is finding her feet as an important economic and ever, began when the German New Guinea
industrial hub and has become the most well-connected city in PNG with road, sea and air Company established a settlement at
links to just about everywhere else. WWII battlefields, war cemeteries, wrecked planes and Finschhafen in 1885. It was a disaster, with
malaria, boredom and alcohol all taking a
MOROBE & MADANG
sunken ships all attract visitors and the Morobe Province’s Black Cat Track is slowly gaining
heavy toll. The company moved north, first
popularity with hardcore trekkers now that the Kokoda has become ‘overrun’.
PROVINCES
to Bogadjim on Astrolabe Bay, and then
on to Madang, before finally conceding de-
Madang, situated on a small peninsula jutting into a halcyonic harbour, is Lae’s younger,
feat to the mosquitoes and decamping for
prettier sister. Despite being heavily bombed in WWII, Madang has returned to her sunny, the relative comforts of New Britain. The
carefree self. Once here, you’ll be shifting down the mental gears in no time. For the adventurer Lutheran Mission arrived during this time
there is plenty of scope to grab a snorkel, slap on some sunscreen and banana-boat hop your and Finschhafen remains a Lutheran base.
The legendary prospector ‘Sharkeye’ Park
way along the coast. Madang’s northern coast, the Finschhafen area and the foreshore south
is credited with discovering gold near Wau in
of Lae all offer opportunities to stay in locally run guesthouses and soak up some rays. 1921. By the mid-1920s the gold hunters were
flooding in, arriving at Salamaua and strug-
gling for eight days up the steep and slippery
HIGHLIGHTS Black Cat Track (p137) to Wau, a mere 50km
away. Malaria, the track itself and unhappy
„ Soaking up the creature comforts under the
bat-packed trees of Madang (p140), the
tribesmen claimed many lives.
In 1926 a richer field was discovered at Edie
‘prettiest town in the Pacific’
Creek, high in the hills above Wau. To squeeze
„ Watching leatherback turtles scramble ashore Madang the most out of these gold-rich streams the
Simbai
at Labu Tali Conservation Area (p135) under miners turned to aircraft (p312) and within a
a full moon few years more air freight was being lifted in
„ Being one of the first to witness the beetle- PNG than the rest of the world put together.
bejewelled singsings of the isolated Simbai The goldfields continued to be productive
(p149) villagers high in Bismarck Range until after WWII. Today, local people still
„ Suiting up to dive the wrecks and carnage of Lae work the fields but it’s nothing more than a
WWII or snorkelling over the psychedelic reefs Labu Tali cottage industry.
north of Madang (p142)
Conservation Area Lae was a tiny mission station before the
gold rush but soon became a thriving commu-
„ Calling into Lae to pay your respects at the War nity clustered, in true PNG fashion, around
Cemetery (p129) and to check out the critters at its central airstrip. It was from here that, in
the Rainforest Habitat (p129) 1937, pioneer aviator Amelia Earhart took off
on one of the final legs of a round-the-world
„ POPULATION: 905,000 „ AREA: 62,470 SQ KM flight and disappeared without trace.
M O R O B E & MA D A N G P R O V I N C E S • • H i s t o r y 125
Volcanic eruptions at Rabaul in 1937
prompted a decision to move the capital of
New Guinea to Lae, but WWII intervened
and instead Lae, Salamaua and Rabaul be-
came major Japanese bases. The Japanese also
took Madang.
In early 1943 the Japanese, reeling from
defeats at Milne Bay and the Kokoda Track,
attempted to take Port Moresby by attacking
towards Wau, marching over the mountains
from Salamaua. The Battle of Wau was fought
hand-to-hand after the ammunition ran out,
with villagers watching in much the same way
that foreign researchers (with an advanced
knowledge of clan disputes) and voyeurs
watch Highlands battles today.
In September 1943 Allied troops took
Salamaua, Nadzab and finally Lae. Many
Japanese escaped into the mountain wil-
derness of the Huon Peninsula and started
on an incredible retreat that saw them fight
their way over the Finisterre Range towards
Madang, and eventually all the way to Wewak.
MOROBE & MADANG
Today, groups of Australian military-history
buffs occasionally walk the route over Shaggy
PROVINCES
Ridge, scene of some of the most desperate
fighting of the campaign. Lae, Wau, Bulolo
and Salamaua were badly damaged during the
war and Salamaua was never rebuilt. Madang
was demolished and completely rebuilt.
Postwar, Lae became a major transport hub
for goods shipped to and from the Highlands.
The road between Wau and Lae had been built
during the war and work on the Highlands
Hwy was made a priority so it could service
the fast-growing coffee and tea industries. The
Highlands mineral boom of the 1980s and
’90s, with its need for massive heavy-cargo
shipments, resulted in Lae becoming the main
port and industrial centre of PNG.
GEOGRAPHY & CLIMATE
The Huon Peninsula is the hump in the
New Guinea ‘dragon’s back’, an area of steep
ranges leading down to northern coastal
grasslands and swamps. The Finisterre,
Sarawaget and Rawlinson Ranges form a rib
along the Huon Peninsula, with the lower
slopes blanketed in one of the most tan-
gled and impenetrable rainforests in PNG.
Further north, Madang Province rises from
the coast into the Schrader and Bismarck
Range and the highest peaks in the country;
Mt Wilhelm (4509m) stands near the border
with Simbu Province.
 126 M O R O B E & MA D A N G P R O V I N C E S lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E 127

0 80 km Both provinces have river valleys that are

MOROBE & MADANG PROVINCES 0 50 miles
important cattle and sugar-cane farming
areas; in Morobe it’s the valley astride the
er Watam 190km-long Markham River, while Madang
Riv
ik has the Ramu Valley. There are 45 islands
Sep Boroi

Ramu River
Hansa Manam I off the coast of Madang Province, three of
Bay
Base camp
Laing I which are active volcanoes. Morobe also has
Bogia a number of volcanic islands between the
EAST SEPIK Huon Peninsula and New Britain.
PROVINCE
The climate in this part of PNG can be
confusing. The Lae–Finschhafen area’s

No
Ad

rth
G el
be Magiya Karkar I
BISMARCK SEA rainy period is from May to October and

Co
Ke ua er
ram Riv rt

as
v Salemben it has only a slight seasonal variation in

t
Hw
R
Ri

temperature. But while it can rain every

y
an
ve

Bagabag I
r

Malolo Cape Croisilles

ge
Aronis Bargam
day for weeks in Lae, just a couple of
S
ch MADANG hours down the coast by boat it is sunny
ra
de
PROVINCE most days. Madang is dry between June
r R Alexishafen
an
ge Aiome
Ra
m
u
Utu Mission
Gog
See Around Ma
Map (p146) dang and September.
Ri ol R Long I
ve iver
r Madang
Bau
ENGA
CULTURE

D
B Yabob Lake Sakar I

am
PROVINCE Simbai Wisdom
i Tolokiwa I Even today, the Anga people from the

pi
Astrolabe er
s Bay Cape Rigny St
Baiyer River Mt Herbert m ra
it
highland areas of Morobe Province are re-
(4267m) a Bogadjim
nowned throughout PNG as fierce warriors.
MOROBE & MADANG

Usino

MOROBE & MADANG

r V i Umboi
F i n Saidor t
WESTERN
c
k i s
t e Bandit
i
a
(Rooke)
I
Traditionally they lived a nomadic existence
z
PROVINCES

Koropa

PROVINCES
HIGHLANDS
Brahmin
r r
e interspersed with violent raids on lowland
PROVINCE Bundi R Ra S
ds Mt Wilhelm a m
u
R
a
n t villages – or upon each other. Despite the
Highlan Hwy n Dumpu g r
Mt Hagen (4509m) g e e Bonga
a bitter climate in their mountain homeland,
Hw

Teptep Wasu i they wore only tiny grass skirts and cloaks
y

Gusap
made of beaten bark, known as mal.

t
Kundiawa Goroka Watarais Sialum
Kabwum
e JK McCarthy, who made some of the first
ng
MOROBE Ra contact with these people between the wars,
y

Sa r
Hw

SIMBU awa ge t
PROVINCE
Henganofi Highlands Kainantu PROVINCE Bobongara described in his book Patrol Into Yesterday
Huon Peninsula
Boana the Angas’ first sight of an aircraft, when
Ma

EASTERN R awl Pindiu

SOUTHERN in men crawled beneath the plane in search of
rkh

HIGHLANDS s on Maneba Wharf

HIGHLANDS
am

ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
PROVINCE R Butaweng
Finschhafen Area
its genitals, apparently unsure whether it was
Rive Gagidu Station
r

a
Nadzab Malasiga male or female.

n
r Buki Wharf &
ve

g
Airport
Ri Dregerhafen

e
tut

Mt Tabletop Lae Langemack Tami Is

Wonenara
Wa

(3686m)

MOROBE PROVINCE
Bay
Mt Murray
(2254m) Gwado
Busama & Labu Tali Huon
Morobe Province is the industrial heart of

ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ
Watama Salamaua
GULF PROVINCE Gulf
Menyamya Bulolo
Wau Ecology
Institute Bitoi
Mt Tambu PNG and gateway to both the Highlands
Aseki
River Salus
and Islands. A string of village guesthouses
Kaintiba
Wau Lababia
Kamiali Wildlife Management Area
along the beautiful Huon Coast are a great
Edie Creek
Black Cat
Black Cat Lasanga I opportunity to get off the beaten track and
Track
Hidden Valley Mine for those up to the challenge, the historic
Siboma
war time Black Cat, Bulldog and Skindiwai

ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ
Tracks will challenge the most avid
ck
Tra

Mt Lawson Bo
wu Morobe Alligator Point outdoor enthusiast.
(2722m)
W

Tekadu tu
og

Intense WWII fighting has bequeathed a

ar

Saigara
lld

Kakoro M Hercules
ia

Bulldog
Bu

tn Bau
Ri

Bay legacy of battlefield relics from submerged

ve

Murua Pema
r

Maclatchie
Point Kerema
Mt Strong
(3588m) Cape
shipwrecks to downed aircrafts. Culturally,
the region boasts 171 distinctive languages
er mu

Gulf of Papua Ward

CENTRAL ORO
Riv keka

Malalaua Hunt
are

PROVINCE PROVINCE and hosts the spectacular Morobe Show in

mb
La

er

late October.
Riv
Ma

Kukipi
 128 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e 129

LAE
Lae is PNG’s second-largest city and, despite
having a sizable industrial base, it is vastly
more attractive than Port Moresby. Like other
PNG cities the streets are filled with people
and it can be hard to imagine what all the
crowds are doing. No one seems to be in a
rush; happy to chat with friends and amble
around town – until about 4pm when all
hell breaks loose as everyone tries to catch a
PMV simultaneously.
Despite its hard-nosed reputation, don’t be
afraid to stash your valuables back in the hotel
and do some ambling about town yourself.
The locals don’t bite.
On its outskirts Lae boasts the wonderful
Rainforest Habitat, probably the best place in
PNG for seeing the country’s fantastic wild-
life without having to mount a months-long
expedition to do so.
Orientation
MOROBE & MADANG
the hill in China Town; named after the
Chinese community who once lived here.
The old airstrip lies at the foot of the
steep hill to the west and runs up beside the
Botanical Gardens. It was, for many years,
Lae’s main airport, but today the city is served
by Nadzab Airport, the war-time airstrip
40km northwest of Lae.
Most passenger boats, from banana boats
to passenger ships, leave from Voco Point,
southeast of the town centre. Another wharf,
off Bumbu Rd beside Lae’s main container
terminal, deals with banana boats heading
south to Labu villages and is the Rabaul
Shipping terminal.
MAPS
Recent city maps are available in the front of
the local phone book. Otherwise, contact the
Department of Surveying & Land Studies (%473
4951; enquiries@survey.unitech.ac.pg; Unitech).
Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Chemcare (%472 6590; 4th St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri,
to 2.30pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) One of several pharmacies.
Masalohan Medical Services (%479 1222; 7th St;
h8am-5pm) In the same building as the Central Court
Internet Cafe.
Tusa Private Hospital (%472 4688; 13th St;
h24hr) For emergencies.
MONEY
ANZ (%180 4444; ANZ Haus, Central Ave) ATMs with
security guards.
Bank South Pacific (BSP; %472 2244; cnr Central Ave
& 6th St) Credit-card advances over the counter. Charges
1% commission on travellers cheques and is the agent for
Western Union.
Westpac (%472 1066; cnr Central Ave & 6th St) Also
charges a 1% commission to cash travellers cheques and
has an ATM.
POST
DHL (%472 1256; Milford Haven Rd) Opposite the Coca
Cola factory.
Having said that, there’s no reason why you
can’t walk around most parts of town during
the day, though keep valuables on your person
to a minimum and as inconspicuous as possible
(see also p291). The quiet Botanical Gardens,
however, are not suitable for lone travellers and
the settlement area east of Voco Point should
be avoided, including the beach.
The road to Nadzab Airport has been
resealed and hold-ups have declined dra-
matically; it’s a lot tougher to stop a vehicle
travelling at 130km/h (drivers don’t spare
the horses) than one slowing to 10km/h to
negotiate potholes. PMVs are quite safe dur-
ing the day.
Sights
RAINFOREST HABITAT
Visiting the Rainforest Habitat (%475 7839; www
.habitat.org.pg; adult/child K10/5; h10am-4pm) is like
stepping into a microcosm of PNG’s most
exotic flora and fauna. It comprises about
3000 sq metres of reconstructed rainforest

Lae is built on a flat-topped headland that

MOROBE & MADANG

ironically gets almost no benefit of a view EMERGENCY Post office (cnr 2nd & 3rd Sts; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to inside a covered shade house. It incorporates
11.30am Sat) a lake, raised walkways and an abundance of
PROVINCES

PROVINCES
over the beautiful Huon Gulf. The city is laid Ambulance (%479 1068, 479 1111)
out around the Botanical Gardens just like Fire (%472 4333, 472 4818) plants and birds. Planting began in 1994 when
Manhattan and Central Park – OK, that may Police (%479 1068; Coronation Dr) TOURIST INFORMATION 10,000, mostly native, plants were placed into
be a slight exaggeration. Morobe Tourism Bureau (%472 7823; www.tourism the habitat. Most people come to see the bird of
Huon Rd is the main through street, run- INTERNET ACCESS morobe.org.pg; Professionals Real Estate Bldg, 5th St; paradise collection and orchid garden although
ning in from the Highlands Hwy, past the Central Court Internet Cafe (7th St; per min K0.40; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the ANZ. One of the the real star is ‘Argo’, the huge and largely inac-
better-resourced information offices in PNG; staff here are tive saltwater crocodile. Outside is a mini zoo
Eriku PMV stop and through to the city cen- h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Tucked inside a white
tre (known as Top Town). It connects with and red building on the ground floor with reasonable helpful and have some handy local and regional contacts. with cuscus, tree kangaroos and cassowaries.
Markham Rd, another major thoroughfare, connections. It burns CDs (K10) and has telecard They should be able to advise on walking the Black Cat and There are simple accommodation facilities
which leads down past the old airport and telephones. arrange accommodation in Wau. in the nearby Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse
Voco Point. Destiny Internet Cafe (%479 3193; 4th St; per hr K25; Village Development Trust (VDT; %472 1666; vdt@ (p132). To get there, take PMV 11B or 11C
global.net.pg; Trist Ave, Eriku) These guys help manage from Top Town or Eriku and ask to be let off
Most shops can be found in either of the h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) On the ground floor
two commercial mini-centres – Top Town of the big blue building; prepare for a slow connection and a series of village guesthouses along the Huon Gulf coast at Unitech Gate 2, not the main gate.
and Eriku. There are also a few stores down gospel background music. CDs can be burnt for K5. which are a must-see if you’re heading that way.
BOTANICAL GARDENS
TRAVEL AGENCIES The Botanical Gardens (%472 4188; Milford Haven Rd;
Lae International Travel Agency (%472 1000; admission K3; h6am-7pm Sat & Sun) offer a pleasant
AMELIA EARHART darkie@global.net.pg; Lae International Hotel, 4th St) stroll through a small patch of rainforest and
Amelia Earhart became many things to many people during her short life – best-selling author, Avoid the queues at Air Niugini and purchase your tickets grassland in the centre of Lae. The huge, vine-
a women’s-rights advocate, an international celebrity and even a fashion icon, but the world in comfort here for the same price. covered trees host colourful birds and but-
best remembers her as a spirited aviation pioneer and the first woman to fly solo, nonstop terflies, and the gardens have an exotic orchid
across the Atlantic. UNIVERSITIES collection. Officially, it’s closed on weekdays
Her first flight was off a ramp on the roof of her family’s toolshed in what was meant to be Unitech (%473 4999; www.unitech.ac.pg; Independ- but the guards at either the main northern gate
a homemade rollercoaster. Her last was from Lae on her second attempt to be the first woman ence Dr, Taraka) About 8km out of town and located in (near the RAAF DC-3) or the southern gate
to circumnavigate the globe in a plane. some nicely landscaped parks and gardens. The Matheson (near Lae War Cemetery) usually let you in. Try
Having successfully completely 35,000km of a journey that had taken her from America to Library is impressive, as are Duncanson Hall’s 36 Sepik-style to avoid coming here alone or phone ahead for
New Guinea via South America, Africa, India and Southeast Asia, Earhart had only to cross the carved pillars. From the city centre, take PMV 11A or 11B. a guide from the Forest Research Institute.
Pacific to successfully complete her goal. Her disappearance has spawned many theories but all
that is known for certain is that on 2 July 1937, Earhart left Lae bound for Howland Island and Dangers & Annoyances LAE WAR CEMETERY
was never seen again. Lae has a reputation for danger and it pays to be The Lae War Cemetery (Memorial Ave; h 7am-
more cautious than normal while you’re here. 4pm), just south of the Botanical Gardens, is
 130 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e 131

0 600 m a fine clubhouse. Clubs can be rented for K25

LAE 0 0.4 miles
from the SIL Guesthouse (p132).

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
St Keen to hook a blue marlin or yellow-

Rd

Butibum Rd
A 18 B C zo D E F
Ra

bu
St
To Department of Surveying &
finned tuna? Your best bet is to contact the

m
St
un

Bu
Land Studies (6km);

ki
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ta
Rainforest Habitat (6km);
Lae Game Fishing Club (www.laegamefishing.org.pg),

in
25

St
Kl
ary Rd Rainforest Habitat (6km); Lae Game Fishing Club..................(see 31)

ak
Hu

e
Bound

Av
on Drayton St Guesthouse; Lae Golf Course................................14 B1 based at the Lae Yacht Club (p133). Although

ist
Unitech (6km)
1 Rd 1

Tr
Do Lae War Cemetery...........................15 C3
it doesn’t officially run charters, it may put

Rd
Pa yle 13 To Independence Drive
Melanesian Arts Gallery &
re St (1km); Momahi Tours (20.5km);

Milford Haven
14 G
22
ur
r Nadzab Airport (40.5km);
Highlands Hwy
Tour Agency..............................(see 38)
Pagini Tours...................................(see 19)
you in touch with locals who do.

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ne St
24 y
INFORMATION 26

St
SLEEPING
Tours

an
ANZ........................................ 1 D4 41 St

han
Australian Consulate (Trukai Fountain Motel................................16 D3
Karen Quinn, at Melanesian Arts Gallery & Tour

Buc
Huon Gulf Motel..............................17 B3

Ave ayter
Industries)...........................2 A4 ERIKU BUMNENG
Klinkii Lodge.....................................18 B1
Agency (% 472 1604; melansian.arts@global.net.pg;

Ch
Bank South Pacific...................3 D3 Bu
Bank South Pacific...................4 C3 Av e tib Lae International Hotel.................... 19 D4
cus
Central Court Internet Cafe.....5 D3 Hib
is 30 Bum um Lae Travellers Inn.............................20 C3 Markham Rd), is a woman with her finger on
Cas
bu Rd
Lutheran Guesthouse.......................21 F2
Chemcare............................... 6 D4 River Morobe’s pulse. If you want to walk the Black

Rd
Destiny Internet Cafe.............. 7 D4 sia Mavra Guesthouse...........................22 B1

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Cre
2 DHL........................................8 A5 s Botanical
Gardens St
Melanesian Hotel............................ 23 D4 2 Cat or just around town, Karen can arrange
Ave il Phil's Motel......................................24 B1

su
Lae International Travel
cian
a
ag
ta someone willing to guide you and something

Bu
Kiw
a

Pilgrim Village Guesthouse...............25 C1

PoinAve
in

Agency...........................(see 19) 27 W
ar

capable of transporting you.

ila R

Salvation Army.................................26 B1
su

Masalohan Medical Services..(see 5)

὆὆὆
Ca

s Summer Institute of Linguistics

Morobe Tourism Bureau......... 9 D4 Cre
d

Police Station........................10 C3 Ca
ssia
ial
Ave Guesthouse..................................27 B2 Expat Fred Cook runs a one-man op-

Ca
or 12

὆὆὆
Post Office............................ 11 D4 YWCA............................................ 28 D3 eration, Pagini Tours (%472 1071; www.pagintours

ss
em 21

ow
M St t
Rd

Tusa Private Hospital.............12 C2 S

th on .com.pg, Lae International Hotel, 4th St) out of the Lae

a
lc

὆὆὆
ry
bu

Village Development Trust....13 C1 13 Fa EATING

m

15 t

Rd
hS 34

Huo
Food Mart.......................................29 D3 International Hotel. He specialises in small-
Bu

Westpac................................(see 3) t
M
ar 12 Kokomo Coffee Shop....................(see 19)

n R
t BUTIBUM
kh 17 hS group day trips around Lae and can, with ad-
Lae am 11t Lae Bowling Club.............................30 B2

d
Showgrounds
Rd
h St Lae Yacht Club................................ 31 D5
10t vance notice, arrange game-fishing charters.
MOROBE & MADANG

Ai 20

MOROBE & MADANG

r Luluai’s Italian Restaurant..............(see 19)
Co
Ma

3 rp Vee St
St 16 St Main Market...................................32 B4 3 Momahi Tours (%475 1366; tropicalniuginiwoods
Co

k
s 9th
rk

w
Rd Ha
ro

Salamaua Restaurant.....................(see 23)

ha

45 t
@global.net.pg; 12 mile, Okuk Hwy), based in a guest-
PROVINCES

PROVINCES
hS
na
m

8t37
St

Stargate Food Bar............................33 C3

tio
ey

29
Rd

house outside of town on the way to the air-

n
ve

Jo

47 Vanda Restaurant..........................(see 19)

St
Dr
e A

Mu th
Cen

la S 5 7 28
t 4 port, is a locally owned operation offering

Ho
rob

tral

DRINKING
Lau

St Top

rnb
Mo

6th
tours to nearby crocodile farms, and Potsie

Ro
Ave

Town Aero Bar........................................(see 19)

rab

33

bin
ill
10 3 Aviat Club....................................... 34 D3

St
ada

5th St Cr
es Sa
nd and Gabensis villages. It also runs picnic trips
Ol

Club 69........................................... 35 D5
Air

Ma 1 pip
dA

lait 9
Ave

4th St er CHINATOWN 36 D4
a S 7 Rd Planet Rock..................................... to Erap River.
irs
Cor

t
Rd

Sportsman Bar...............................(see 19)

rip

19
ps

2n 6
en

40 d 3rd St
Rd

St
Festivals & Events
Hav

11 SHOPPING
43 Lae Sports Store..............................37 D3
Diddymans

The Morobe Tourism Bureau (p129) pub-

ford

4 38
23
t
Melanesian Arts Gallery & Tour 4
32 1st S
Mil

Mo
nto
ro
St St 44 36
Agency......................................(see 38)
lishes exact festival dates on its website (www
la
Ck M
an
go
Av
Mt Lunaman TRANSPORT
(170m)
.tourismmo robe.org.pg).
Hil e Air Niugini....................................... 38 C4
s

lsid The Morobe Show (www.morobeshow.org.pg; admis-

ay

eA
Ma 2
rw

ve Avis...............................................(see 20)
Ai

tar
am M
ark Banana boats to Finschhafen & sion adult/child K4/3) has become arguably the best-
ha Salamaua.....................................39 E5
m Rd organised cultural show in PNG. It’s usually
St

35
Rd Bitibum Budget.............................................40 B4
42 on the full-moon weekend in late October (18
Vo
8 Eriku PMV Stop................................41 B1
Bum 31

co
Harbor Star Shipping.....................(see 43)
bu R
ui to 19 October 2008, 31 October to 1 November
Po
d
cdh Hertz.............................................(see 43)
Ma St
int 2009). There are no tourist prices here, though
Long Distance PMV Stop...............(see 32)
39 Rd
Lutheran Shipping............................42 E5
5
46
VOCO MAF............................................... 43 D4 5 photographers can gain access to the perform-
POINT North Coast Aviation.......................44 C4
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships).............45 B3
ance field (and the shaded members’ stands)
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) by purchasing a ‘gold’ pass for K40. Saturday
Huon Gulf Boats to
Boats to
Departures..................................46 A5
Top Town PMV Stop.......................47 C3
is devoted to agricultural displays and the
Finschhafen
Salamaua area singsing (celebratory festival/dance) is held
on the Sunday.
meticulously maintained by the Australian distant and unreal, pay a visit and read some by the Germans and Japanese as a lookout The National Theatre Festival is held in con-
Government. There are 2808 graves here, of the headstones; the tributes can be quite point. The Japanese riddled it with caves and junction with the Morobe show and is another
2363 of which are Australian and most of moving. There are security guards and it’s tunnels, though none of these are open today. opportunity to take way too many photos of
the rest are Indian, New Zealand and British. quite safe to visit. Don’t go here alone. people in traditional garb. Arts and crafts are
An Anzac (Australian New Zealand Army also on sale here.
Corp) Day dawn service is held here every MT LUNAMAN Activities The Biang Ngayam Cultural Festival (admission
year commemorating those who lost their To the southeast of town Mt Lunaman or, more If golf is your game, the Lae Golf Course (%472 adult/child K3/2) is held biannually (on even num-
lives during WWII. If the war seems rather correctly, Lo’ Wamung (First Hill), was used 1353; Bumbu Rd) is one of the best in PNG and has bered years) and celebrates the diversity of
 132 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e
traditions and cultures of the nine districts
of Morobe Province.
The Unitech Show (admission K4) is also a bi-
annual event and is held at the university
grounds. The traditional singsing participants
are principally students from around the
country. It’s next scheduled for 2008 although
check for exact dates first.
Sleeping
Most sleeping options are in Top Town or
Eriku, and the majority can provide din-
ner, meaning you don’t have to venture out
after dark. Some midrange options also have
budget rooms.
BUDGET
YWCA (%472 4191; 7th St; dm K35) The cheapest place
around in a town where you get what you pay
for. It’s noisy and run down and thankfully no
longer takes many foreigners as most of the
rooms are full with long-term residents. Try
asking for a transit room.
MOROBE & MADANG
oLutheran Guesthouse (%472 2556; wells@
PROVINCES
online.net.pg; Busu Rd, Ampo; dm incl breakfast K65) Set in
lush, tropical grounds on the outskirts of town,
this homely, colonial-style guesthouse is 200m
off the main road. It’s a great budget option,
and while rooms are shared you can often end
up with a room to yourself. The gates close
from 11pm to 5am and a hearty home-cooked
dinner (K20) is served at 6pm. It’s too far to
walk; take the 13A PMV to Butibum in Ampo
(pronounced ‘umpo’) for K0.50.
Fountain Motel (%472 2268; Hawk St; budget s/d
K66/88, self-contained s/d K110/132; a) Close to town
and with tight security, the rooms are largely
airless boxes although the upstairs rooms have
larger windows. The self-contained rooms
have air-con, the budget rooms, a fan.
Mavra Guesthouse (%472 5912; fax 472 8994; Parer
St, Eriku; d K77-110, tw K165; a) The rooms are fairly
small and very average. The manger, however,
has contacts in the Siassi Islands and is plan-
ning a guesthouse there.
Summer Institute of Linguistics Guesthouse
(SIL; %472 2939; rc-laeguesthouse@sil.org.pg; Poinciana
Ave, Eriku; s K80-100, d K100-120, air-con K25, extra person
K20; as) This is a great option for families
and groups with self-contained rooms that
have several beds and a clean bathroom and
kitchen. Budget rooms are similarly clean
and share a communal lounge, kitchen and
bathroom. The staff are a great source of
information. Recommended.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Pilgrim Village Guesthouse (%/fax 472 8076;
Drayton St; s/d/tr incl breakfast K80/150/180) Set around
a courtyard, this place is good value, especially
the huge and comfortable four-bedroom suite
with its old-fashioned and well-worn décor.
Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse (%/fax 475 7839;
Unitech; s/tw K85/121) Bunk beds, shared bathrooms
and kitchen will appeal to those wanting to be
near to nature, and far from everything else.
Ring first.
Klinkii Lodge (%472 6040; Klinkii St, Eriku; tw/tr
K90/110) Everything about Klinkii is pretty
basic, but it’s cheap and cheery. Rooms have
shared bathroom, except two that also have
air-con (K110). Local-style meals cost K15.
MIDRANGE
Lae Travellers Inn (%479 0411; laetravellersinn@glo
bal.net.pg; Vee St; backpackers s/tw K66/94, d/tw K165/176;
a) Clean, quiet, professional and centrally
located, this is the pick of Lae’s midrange op-
tions. Standard rooms have satellite TV and
kettle, while the backpacker rooms have fan
and share a bathroom. The connected Peaches
Coffee Shop (meals K17 to K30, open 6am
to 9.30pm) serves tasty, no-fuss mains and
simple breakfasts (K10).
Salvation Army (%472 2487; Huon Rd, Eriku; tw/tr
K110/145; a) Set in sprawling grounds near
the shops and PMVs at Eriku. The self-
contained, motel-style units have kitchenettes
and are clean, if a little aged. The staff are
very friendly.
Huon Gulf Motel (%472 4844; www.coralseahotels
.com.pg; Markham Rd; d K152-264; as) Not the jewel
in the Coral Sea Hotels’ crown. Rooms in the
newer wing are better (and more expensive).
The ‘wantok’s pizza’ – the super supreme of
Papuan pizza – is the in-house speciality of
the restaurant here.
Phil’s Motel (%472 4781; philsmotel@datec.com.pg;
Huon Rd, Eriku; r K176-242) Formerly a nightclub;
there’s still a bar with pokies in the members
bar upstairs. There isn’t a significant differ-
ence between the cheaper standard rooms
and the overpriced deluxe rooms; both
sleep up to three. The basement restaurant
is rather gloomy and deserted by locals and
staff alike.
TOP END
Melanesian Hotel (%472 3744; www.coralseahotels.com
.pg; 2nd St; d K253-363, ste K462; ais) The ‘Mello’
has three grades of rooms, all the same size
but with varying degrees of comfort. Rooms
lonelyplanet.com
are slightly discounted from the rates above
on weekends.
Lae International Hotel (%472 2000; www.laehotel
.com.pg; 4th St; d K325-357, ste K460-693; ais) Self-
described as ‘an oasis of luxury’ and indeed
the International has the lot – spacious rooms,
tennis courts, a pool, travel agency (p129), a
business centre, tropical gardens, three res-
taurants (below), a sports bar and a couple of
tree kangaroos thrown in for good measure.
What more could you want?
Eating
The best restaurants are in the top hotels. The
inverse is also true.
RESTAURANTS
Lae Yacht Club (%472 4091; Butibum Rd; meals K20-
32;h8am-midnight) The airy, informal ‘Yachty’
is in a prime position on the harbour and
is good for both drinking and eating. Its
Tuesday- and Friday-night barbecues are
excellent value (your choice of steak plus
chips and myriad salads for K28 to K32).
The clientele is largely (but not solely) drawn
from the dwindling expat community. It’s a
great place to meet people even if at times
the conversation can seem rather divorced
from PNG realities.
Luluai’s Italian Restaurant (%472 2000; Lae
International Hotel, 4th St; meals K20-60; h6am-11pm)
Possibly the best pizzas in PNG. Can’t say the
same for the pasta. The menu is also shared
with the Kokomo Coffee Shop next door,
which makes the cakes they both serve.
Salamaua Restaurant (%472 3744; Melanesian Hotel,
2nd St; meals K40-60; h6-10pm) Wednesday’s curry
night (K45) is the only place in town to get
Indian food.
o Vanda Restaurant (% 472 2000; Lae
International Hotel, 4th St; meals K50-75; h6.30-10pm
Mon-Sat) A classy seafood buffet (K45) is
served on Friday evenings and an equally
scrumptious brunch buffet (10am to 2pm)
on Sunday. Otherwise the mix of well-
prepared international dishes includes
crocodile satay, Mt Wilhelm trout and
white-chocolate cheesecake.
QUICK EATS
Stargate Food Bar (%472 0101; 7th St; meals K7-12;
h11am-7pm) One of the more popular kai bars
(cheap takeaway food bar) around town with a
few tables and chairs. A greasy plate of kaukau
(sweet potato), aibika (greens) creamed with
M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e 133
coconut and chicken comes heaped with a lot
of local conversation.
Lae Bowling Club (%472 0823; Hibiscus Ave, Eriku;
meals K10; h8am-9pm) Filipina Nana serves a few
cheap, tasty dishes in informal surrounds.
SELF-CATERING
You will think you have died and gone to su-
permarket heaven at Food Mart (%479 3288; 7th St;
h7am-7.30pm), especially if you have just come
in from the bush. Otherwise the main market
(Air Corps Rd; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) is a lot
more fun and the vegetables a lot fresher.
Drinking
Lae has a small but vibrant nightlife. Lone
women should find a friend before heading
to a nightclub and generally travellers need
to exercise judgement before embarking on
a blinder in a public forum.
Aero Bar (%472 2000; Lae International Hotel, 4th St;
h6pm-10pm Mon-Sat) A quiet bar overlooking the
foyer of the hotel and kitted out with WWII
MOROBE & MADANG
photography and aviation memorabilia.
Collared shirts are mandatory. Downstairs the
PROVINCES
casual Sportsman Bar (open 9am till late) has
a large-screen TV and slightly cheaper beer.
Aviat Club (%472 3565; Huon Rd; h11am-2am Mon-
Fri, 6pm-10pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) Serves the cheap-
est beer and reasonable Chinese; it’s a very
local scene with snooker tables, pokies and
a band most Wednesdays. The main bar is
members-only but the nightclub is not and
considerably rougher.
Club 69 (%472 1866; 2nd fl, Stadium, Markham Rd;
h8pm-4am Wed-Sat) This is currently the club
of choice with locals and expats alike. Security
is top notch, which means you should be able
to shake your booty to an eclectic mix of local
reggae, R&B, hip-hop and pop on the packed
dance floor in safety. There’s no street sign;
watch for the queue outside the stadium.
Planet Rock (Markham Rd; h7pm-3am) A big
nightclub opposite the old airfield where the
music is deafening and security both inside
and out is necessarily tight. There’s no extra
charge for fighting.
Shopping
Located beside the old airstrip, the Melanesian
Arts Gallery & Tour Agency (%472 1604; www.melanesian
arts.com.pg; Markham Rd) is crammed from floor
to rafter with an excellent array of artefacts.
Beside the obligatory penis gourds you can
pick up items from all over PNG including
 134 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e
Sepik masks, Highland shields and Tami
Island bowls. Prices are reasonable and ship-
ping can be arranged.
Footpaths in the city centre, especially out-
side Chemcare, are a good place to look for
baskets and especially bilums (string bags).
Masks, flippers, snorkels and T-shirts can be
bought in Lae Sports Store (%472 1396; 7th St).
Getting There & Away
Lae is the best-connected city in PNG.
AIR
Several airlines fly out of Lae’s Nadzab Airport,
and most have offices at the airport and in
town. Only Air Niugini offers discounts on
return tickets (see p313). Airlink was a major
player in these parts and left quite a gap after its
closure in 2007. It may be reborn under a new
identity. Airlines flying into Lae include:
Air Niugini Town (%472 1892; Markham Rd) Nadzab
(%475 3055)
Airlines PNG Nadzab (%475 3147)
MOROBE & MADANG
MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship; Town%472 1555;
INI Bldg, 2nd St; Nadzab %472 3104) Flies to remote
PROVINCES
Highland stations and small airstrips west of Lae.
North Coast Aviation Town (%472 1755; norco@glo
bal.com.pg; Markham Rd) Nadzab (%475 3006) Mainly
services the Morobe, Gulf and West New Britain Provinces.
Air Niugini has direct flights from Lae to Port
Moresby (K380, 45 minutes) several times
daily, and to Madang (K293, 35 minutes) and
onto Wewak (K548) every Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday. To the islands, it flies to Manus
(K494, one hour, Monday) and Hoskins (for
Kimbe, K442, 55 minutes), Rabaul (K597,
two hours), Kavieng (K716, three hours) and
Bougainville (K889) every Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday. For all other destinations you’ll
have to go to Port Moresby first.
Airlines PNG has daily (except Sunday)
services to Port Moresby (K380, 50 min-
utes), and flights to Mt Hagen (K349) and
Tabubil (K872) on Mondays, Wednesdays
and Fridays.
See the relevant towns later in this chapter
for details on MAF and North Coast Aviation
routes.
BOAT
As the busiest port in the country, Lae is the
best place in PNG from which to sail off into
the sunset. Banana boats (speed boats) run
northeast as far as Finschhafen (K50) and
lonelyplanet.com
occasionally as far south as Popondetta: this
trip takes two days, overnighting in Morobe
Station. All banana boats leave Lae from
Aigris Market (not wharf) at Voco Point.
Virtually all the Madang-bound boats call
at Finschhafen but the most reliable passen-
ger service is operated by Harbor Star Shipping
(%472 2993; IPI Bldg, 2nd St). See p139 for details.
Lutheran Shipping (Luship; %472 2066; fax 472 5806;
Butibum Rd, Voco Point) has three boats servicing
the Morobe Coast. Some of the villages fre-
quented by these vessels are Buki, Maneba,
Lablab, Gassam and Wasu. Luship publishes
a largely fictitious schedule at the beginning
of each month.
A Luship boat sails to Lorengau (deck/cabin
class K140/250, 48 hours) once a week (often
on Friday), and there should be one boat a
week to Madang (24 hours). The Mamose
Express makes a weekly run to Kimbe (deck/
cabin class K110/185, 24 hours).
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %472 5699; Joey St)
sails to Rabaul (deck/cabin class K220/300, 40
hours) via Kimbe on Mondays and Fridays.
It also runs an on-again, off-again boat
to Popondetta.
PMV
The most reliable place to catch PMVs out
of town is the long-distance PMV stop (main mar-
ket). PMVs for Goroka (K20, four hours) and
Madang (K40, four hours) leave between 8am
and 9am daily. There are fewer on weekends.
Alternatively Highland–bound PMVs can be
caught opposite the Salvation Army in Eriku.
There are now PMVs travelling in convoy
at night. They are intended for those wishing
to reach Mt Hagen (K50, 12 hours) or further
without overnighting in Goroka. Buses depart
Lae at 6pm, hooking up with the Madang buses
at Watarais and arriving in Mt Hagen at 6am.
The road to Wau is not sealed but is gen-
erally good, with spectacular scenery as the
road skirts the Bulolo River. Vehicles to Bulolo
(K10, two to three hours) and Wau (K12,
three to four hours) leave between about 1pm
and 2pm from Top Town.
If you’re heading for Madang, the PMV
trip costs about the same as a transfer to
Nadzab Airport; it compares very well with
flying.
Getting Around
There are no taxis in Lae, but Bas A Nova (%472
7300) will run you around if you call.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Most visitors use one of the airport bus serv-
ices, which collect you from your hotel and
complete the journey at alarming speed –
usually only 20 minutes. The Balus Bus (%472
7350) and Bas A Nova are popular at K20 a
trip, while the security on Guard Dog Security
(%475 1069; K55) would make Rambo look
under equipped.
Local PMVs (K3, 45 minutes) leave from
the main market, but with no taxis, getting to
or from the market can be a hassle.
CAR
There’s no shortage of choice if you want a
hire car:
Avis Town (%472 4644; Lae Travellers Inn, Vee St)
Nadzab (%475 3029) Can provide a driver at an addi-
tional K10 per hour plus accommodation and meals. To be
driven to Goroka will cost around K1700 including tax and
fuel. The manager, Rita, can also arrange transport on an
hourly basis (K30 per hour) for ad-hoc tours.
Budget Town (%472 3230; lae@budget.com.pg; Air
Corps Rd) Nadzab (%475 3089)
Hertz Town (%472 5982; IPI Bldg, 2nd St) Nadzab
(%475 3150)
PMV
PMVs around Lae cost between K0.50 and K1
to Unitec. The local PMV stop in Eriku is on
Huon Rd. The other local PMV stop (known
as Top Town) is on 7th St. There are route
numbers painted on urban PMVs but these
can be fairly vague.
THE HUON GULF COAST
The clear blue waters of the Huon Gulf coast
are blessed with a number of white sandy
beaches and villagers so laid-back they barely
get vertical. Indeed, to even describe life here
as merely relaxed is an understatement, akin
to describing Errol Flynn (who once made his
way to these parts) as merely having ‘a way
with the ladies’.
Being ultrarelaxed can have its drawbacks.
Transport is a touch on the inconsistent side
and little things such as electricity don’t always
work. But, hey, this really is off-the-beaten-
track PNG at its best, so trash the calendar and
hop into a boat and strike out for the series of
villages where it is all too easy to while away a
few days…or weeks.
But before sailing into that sunset, be sure
to speak with the Village Development Trust
(VDT; p129), which can book accommoda-
M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • T h e H u o n G u l f C o a s t 135
tion by radio and give you the low-down on
whose boat is running where. Most of the
VDT-affiliated guesthouses offer basic accom-
modation in a dorm or multibed room at a
very reasonable rate. It’s also worth visiting
the Morobe Tourism Bureau (p129), which has
recently researched this area and is in contact
with various guesthouses along the coast.
Trips down the coast from Lae start at
Aigris market, Voco Point and your convey-
ance is almost always a PMV banana boat.
There’s no schedule, but a general rule is
that the further the destination, the less fre-
quently it runs. Very few boats operate on
Sundays. Banana boats along this stretch of
coast usually come from the village early in
the morning, bringing people to market. They
return about noon, with the same people they
brought. Nothing is guaranteed, but it’s worth
checking the day before for approximate de-
parture times. There are rumours of a new
boat, the MV Rainforest, operated by Lutheran
Shipping that will service the villages along
MOROBE & MADANG
the coast, but who knows.
Accommodation is very basic and toilets
PROVINCES
are of the pit variety. Bring extra food, a mos-
quito net and your own sleeping sheets. The
following towns are listed in a southeasterly
direction from Lae.
Labu Tali Conservation Area
About 50 minutes (K20) from Lae by banana
boat is Labu Tali, a traditional village where
it is possible to overnight and explore the
Labu Tali Conservation Area. The chief drawcard
here is the huge hawksbill and leatherback
turtles (p136) who, with a lot of grunting and
groaning, lay their eggs between November
and March.
Further inland, the Labu Lakes are the source
of the Labu mud-crabs and the shells col-
lected here are used to make kambang, the
lime powder required in betel-nut chewing.
An easy 20-minute walk from Busamang
Beach inland brings you to Gwado and the Bula
Falls, set in pristine jungle with an excellent
swimming hole.
SLEEPING & EATING
There is a basic guesthouse at Labu Tali village
and another at Buli village – a camp run by the
Huon Coast Turtle Conservation programme.
Contact the project coordinator, Mr John Ben
(%472 3011, 6814192; jb20010299@hotmail.com), if you
intend to sleep here.
 136 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • T h e H u o n G u l f C o a s t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • T h e H u o n G u l f C o a s t 137

The Kamiali Training Centre & Guesthouse (VDT centre and which hosts the annual Nange
LEATHERBACK TURTLES in Lae %472 1666; per person K35, incl 3 meals K75) is a Arts Festival.
The beaches around Busama and Labu Tali villages are an important breeding site for leatherback short distance from the Lababia community From Pema you can walk back along the
turtles, incredible reptiles that can live to a great age, weigh up to 500kg and measure up to 2m and nestled within the wildlife management Waria River, cross over and finish in Bau, not
in length. From November until February they come ashore, dig deep nests and lay as many as area. It’s comfortable, serves good traditional far from the border with Oro Province. VDT
100 eggs, which hatch about two months later. It is a truly extraordinary sight. food and is a great base to explore both the (p129) in Lae can give you contacts who can
Traditionally the eggs are gathered by local villagers, but over the years demand for eggs has coastal waters and lush mountain rainfor- organise fishing expeditions, island tours and
increased to the point where the turtle is in danger of dying out. To save the turtle and improve the est. BYO snacks, water, torch, binoculars and arrange singsings. Bau is also a great place to
villagers’ basic living standards, sections of the beach have been set aside for conservation. snorkelling gear. buy Morobean Tapa (beaten bark cloth).
The beaches north of Lababia are also a favourite with the turtles. A US-backed monitoring The Waria Valley experiences a very wet
programme here links villagers by radio, and means you can be called when the turtles arrive, Waria Valley rainy season from May to September and travel
rather than just sit on an empty beach all night for nothing. It’s a big hop down the coast to Saigara, at this time is all but impossible. Occasional
one of many villages dotted along the boats head south from Lababia to Saigara or
Waria River as it winds inland. For a taste Bau (K100 to K120, four to five hours), but
At Busamang Beach, Eliot Hanso opens his SLEEPING & EATING of village life take a boat upriver to Pema, if you don’t want to wait for days, your best
home to travellers and has a one-bedroom Salamaua Guesthouse (Haus Kibung; Huon Peninsula where there’s an interesting arts-and-craft bet is to pass a message through a boatman.
guesthouse (K10) that can accommodate two. Investment Office in Lae %472 3782; dm K22) Has bun-
Bring your own food or share Mr Hanso’s galows with shared bathrooms plus a couple
family’s for an additional fee. of larger family rooms (K66). Bring your own IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF HISTORY
Bula Falls Guesthouse (VDT in Lae %472 1666; K50; food and use the well-equipped kitchen.
Two of the most historic and famous tracks in PNG still attract a few trekkers. They require
James Komblang, Gwado village) has a fireplace for Salamaua High School (Education Dept in Lae %472
experience, planning and stamina, and don’t even think about attempting them without a local
self-caterers and the beds come with mat- 3001; tw per person K20) The other option in town,
guide. Speak with the Morobe Tourism Bureau (p129) or Tim Vincent of Wau Adventures (p139)
tresses, pillows and linen. Guides to Bula which has a few simple but clean rooms.
MOROBE & MADANG

MOROBE & MADANG

who can help find you a guide (K60 per day) and offer up-to-date information on the condition
waterfalls and various Hote villages can be Washing is by bucket and there are no fans,
of the tracks.
arranged here. but the atmosphere is expectedly communal
PROVINCES

Salamaua
The picturesque peninsula protruding from
the coast an hour south of Lae marks Salamaua.
There is little to suggest that the tranquil vil-
lage you find today played such a significant
part in the development of Wau and Bulolo
in the gold-rush days, or a pivotal role in the
course of the Pacific war (see p26). You can
walk to, or dive on, a few interesting war rel-
ics. Follow the steep trail to four Japanese gun
emplacements and what remains of the original
town cemetery in the peninsula’s hills. The
trail begins in the northwest corner of the
school oval. Near the start of the path is the
now-blocked entrance to a Japanese tunnel.
If you want a full day’s walk, Mt Tambu has
spectacular views and a huge battlefield where
the Australians met the Japanese as they ad-
vanced towards Wau. Local guides are available
for about K35 a day. The Black Cat Track starts and
ends at Salamaua; see opposite for details.
Salamaua bay has a scattering of reefs
and coral formations, although you will
need to bring your snorkelling equipment to
appreciate them.
Most days there are boats from Lae to
Salamaua (K30 one hour). From Busamang
Beach it is a five-hour walk along the beach
to Salamaua.
and good fun.
The village store sells rice, noodles and SP
Lager (the generator even works the fridge
between 6pm and 10pm!).
Kamiali Wildlife Management Area
A further 30km south of Salamaua is Lababia,
a village of about 750 people in a sandy cove.
The attraction here is the 69,000 hectare
Kamiali Wildlife Management Area. The area
comprises forests, mangroves, sandy beaches,
coral reefs, waterfalls, rivers and lakes, and
includes the steep David Suzuki Trail through
some pristine forest – the view from the top
is well worth an early rise. At night, if the
season is right, you can see leatherback turtles
laying their eggs.
There is a colourful reef mere meters from
the Kamiali Guesthouse but for some serious
snorkelling charter a local boat to run you to the
reefs surrounding the Fly group of Islands.
Boats run between Lae and Lababia (K50,
two to three hours) about three times a
week, and from Salamaua to Lababia (K30,
one hour) whenever they feel like it. Tell one
of the boatmen who leaves Salamaua for Lae
to pass on a message that you want a ride
south or arrange with VDT (p129) before-
hand to send a boat. To walk takes at least
two days.
PROVINCES
Port Moresby–based Papua New Guinea Trekking Adventures (%325 1284; www.pngtrekking
adventures.com) has also lead several treks down the Black Cat.
Black Cat Track
This track was used by miners in the 1920s (p125) and its difficulty lies in the ‘no-matter-what’
route straight from Salamaua to its objective – the Black Cat mine, northeast of Wau. The miners
took eight days to cover the 50km, and parts of the track were later used by Australian soldiers
during WWII.
These days the middle sections of the Black Cat are seldom used by anyone, and the trail itself
is often overgrown or obstructed by landslips and fallen trees. It will take three to five days to
walk depending on which end you start (the climb is 1800m) and how fit you are. Note that this
track shouldn’t be attempted by inexperienced walkers. A couple we met in Salamaua, one a
former member of the British SAS, rated the Black Cat an eight out of 10 for difficulty, compared
with a five for the Kokoda Track. There is a series of traverses with loose footing and long drops
below, plus several crossings of the Bitoi River. Be sure to wear long pants and boots with an
edge and heel for grip on the traverses.
For a fuller description see accounts by Richard Stanaway (http://richard.stanaway.net/blackcat
.htm) and Paul Greene (www.wanemya.com).
Bulldog Track
The WWII Bulldog Track, intended to link Wau with the south coast, winds its way from Edie
Creek to Bulldog, from where you had to travel by river. When completed in 1943 the track
was actually a road capable of bearing large trucks. It has deteriorated since and been cut by
landslides and jungle. Depending on how much of it you want to walk, the Bulldog Track takes
from three to nine days and passes through a stunning array of landscapes and villages, little
changed over centuries. You’ll pass through cool moss forests, tracts of pine-covered hills and
villages where grass skirts remain common.
The longer trip is a bona fide adventure; see the excellent description by Richard Stanaway
(http://richard.stanaway.net/bulldog.htm). The shorter trip requires as much planning, and requires a
charter flight to meet you at Kakoro. Don’t be late.
 138 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • Fi n s c h h a fe n A re a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • W a u & B u l o l o 139

Huon Motors Store (%474 7018; huonmot@global on from its former ‘cowboy’ town reputa-
TAMI ISLAND .net.pg; Gagidu Station; r K99) It also operates a guest- tion. These days both towns are far safer and
Tami Island is an idyllic collection of four coral atolls and every bit the South Sea cliché you could house that sleeps four, and its car is for rent friendlier than Lae down the road.
hope for – white sandy beaches, friendly locals, coconut palms and good snorkelling with none (K220 per day). Also sells a few basic tinned If you make it up here, your best bet is
of the pesky Western intrusions such as electricity, shops, food and reliable transport. goods but no vegetables. to contact Tim Vincent of the soon to be
Tami islanders are renowned carvers and you’ll most certainly be shown the famous Tami launched Wau Adventures (%474 6210; vincent
Island bowls, although it is possible to purchase these on the mainland at Malasiga, a recently Getting There & Around enterrises@global.net.pg; www.wauadventures.com.pg).
settled village by the Islanders. Nearly all Madang-bound boats call at Tim will be able to coordinate everything
On the island ask for Willie Silas, who runs the Tami Guesthouse (K12 per person), although it’s Finschhafen (at either Maneba or Buki wharf, from accommodation to meals, trekking
BYO everything except coconuts and firewood. Ditto for St Balmer Guesthouse. maybe even both). Banana boats usually only guides to local tours.
Enquire around Dregerhafen for boat departure times to the island – market days are best; go as far as Buki. Lutheran Shipping’s com- Donna’s Stoa (%474 6210; Wau) is where the
expect to pay K20 for passage on a banana boat or K300 return if you charter the whole thing. fortable Gejamsao had been in ‘dry-dock’ for PMVs stop in the centre of town.
Unless you charter, plan to stay the night. two months when we passed through and no
one seemed to know if schedules were to be Sights
resumed – ask around. There are several places around Wau and
If you get desperate, pay a local boatman to sandy beaches make it a great weekend escape. Harbor Star Shipping (%472 2993; Ipi Bldg, 2nd Bulolo of interest to walkers and nature lovers,
take you out to Lababia Island, then ambush Butaweng waterfalls and Langemack Bay are the St) runs MV Orion, which departs from the particularly those with a thing for insects. The
the PMV boat as it goes past. You should be pick of the mainland swimming spots. There Luship wharf at Voco Point for Buka wharf Wau Ecology Institute (WEI; %474 6431; wauecology@
able to squeeze in. Alternatively prearrange are a number of well-preserved sunken ships every Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday morn- datec.com.pg) seems to be steadily running down,
transport in Lae with VDT. and aircraft wrecks offshore crying out for a ing between 9am and 10am, returning the but its laboratory, library, museum, lecture
local dive operator. Even Gagidu’s foreshore following day. The tickets (deck/air-con/1st theatre, large insect collection and accom-
SLEEPING & EATING is pleasant, although the snorkelling around class K40/50/80) can be bought at the wharf modation (below) are still operating.
VDT (p129) in Lae can give you the current Dreggerhafen (next to Buki) is better. Better prior to departure. The trip takes six hours Perhaps the most viable of the WEI’s ac-
MOROBE & MADANG

MOROBE & MADANG

status of the guesthouses in the valley, includ- still, slap on the sun screen and take a day trip and is met by PMV trucks that trundle to tivities is its Butterfly Ranch (%/fax 474 6212). It
ing the following: to Tami Island (above). supplies collectors around the world with
PROVINCES

Gagidu Station (K1.50).

Tulip Guesthouse (all-inclusive per person K50) In Bau,
and run by the Tulip Women’s Club who offer
traditional meals and home baked bread.
Unu Guesthouse (all-inclusive per person K50) Further
south, the Unu has 20 bunk beds in two rooms.
The guesthouse is built at the foot of Mt Unu,
the mountain fortress of the Dzia tribe. Meals
are included and cooked over an open fire.
FINSCHHAFEN AREA
The town of Finschhafen was the German
New Guinea Company’s first attempt at colo-
nising New Guinea (see p125). Unfortunately,
things didn’t go well; nothing remains of the
original settlement aside from a lone Lutheran
Mission building. Today Finschhafen refers to
the district and the collective series of peaceful
coastal towns within it. The principal settle-
ment is Gagidu Station, 3km from Buki Wharf
and about 30km from Maneba.
Towards the end of WWII the area was
used as a staging post for US troops and vast
numbers of GIs passed through. The war’s
abrupt end left millions of dollars worth of
aircraft and equipment redundant, so the
whole lot was bulldozed into a huge hole; ask
at Dregerhafen High School, about 4km south
of Gagidu Station, for directions.
Although there isn’t a lot to do in Finschhafen,
its proximity to Lae and abundance of white
Further down the coast towards Sialum are
some of the world’s best examples of uplifted
marine terraces. From the air it is possible to
appreciate the ancient coral reefs that have
been thrust upwards to form a geological
staircase. The entire area, which also incor-
porates the Bobongara archaeological site (the
oldest human habitation site in the Pacific
outside of Australia), has been nominated as
a World Heritage listing.
Sleeping & Eating
Huon Peninsula Lodge (%474 7073; hplodge@global.net
.pg; Gagidu Station; tw K72-165; a) Set in a well-kept
garden on the coast, fan rooms and air-con
rooms share a bathroom and kitchen; there’s
one self-contained room. Go fishing in the
lodge outrigger (gear is provided) and bar-
becue your catch in the haus win (open-air
structure like a gazebo). The lodge is oppo-
site the municipal headquarters, about 700m
north of Gagidu market.
Senior Flierl Seminary Guesthouse (%474 7038;
Private Bag, Logaweng; Finschhafen, Morobe Province)
Calling ahead is vital as staff need to send
a truck to collect you from the wharf –
a 20-minute drive from the Seminary.
There are cooking facilities but bring your
own food. Locals can guide you to nearby
Butaweng falls.
Alternatively, banana boats (K50, three to
four hours) leave from Lae and Buki Point
Beach when they’re full – usually in the morn-
ing. They won’t run in bad weather, which is
frequent between June and September.
Tough-as-nails PMVs run between Gagidu
and Maneba over a diabolical road (1½
hours, K5).
WAU & BULOLO
In the 1920s and ’30s New Guinea’s gold
rush made the mining towns of Wau (pro-
nounced ‘wow’) and Bulolo thriving centres of
industry (see p125). Not anymore. The nicest
thing about these towns today is the welcome
change from the stifling heat and humidity
of the coast. At an altitude of about 1300m,
the abundant pines give a refreshing slant on
equatorial vegetation.
Unemployment is sky-high and local peo-
ple still work small claims in the area. Gold
traders advertise with signs saying: Salim Gol
Long Hia (Sell Your Gold Here). Only one
old dredge remains in Wau from the glory
days, rusting in the creek bed downstream
from town. There are seven others in the area,
mostly near Bulolo.
A gold mine discovered a few years ago at
nearby Hidden Valley is bringing some hope
to the area and helping Wau and Bulolo move
PROVINCES
examples of PNG’s astounding variety of
insects. The philosophy is that villagers earn
money by collecting and selling butterflies,
beetles and other insects that have already
laid their eggs, thereby ensuring the pro-
creation of their species. While earning an
income, villagers also interact more closely
with their environment (and become less
tempted to cut down trees for a fast buck).
Of a similar nature is the Insect Farming &
Trading Agency (%474 5285; www.ifta.com.pg; Godwin
St) in Bulolo, uphill and to the left from the
post office.
Eating & Sleeping
There aren’t many options in Wau and
Bulolo. The only official place to stay in Wau
is the Wau Ecology Institute (WEI; %474 6431; dm
K50, incl meals K75), a couple of hilly kilometres
west of town; call ahead for a pick-up. Its
basic twin rooms and shared bathrooms
need some work. Its phone seldom works.
Tim Vincent (above) can help travellers with
accommodation around town.
In Bulolo, Pine Lodge (%474 5220; fax 474 5284;
r K264) has passable rooms and food (meals K25
to K35). Each room sleeps two and comes
with private facilities. A cheaper option is the
Bulolo Vocational Center (%474 5223; fax 474 5471),
but you’ll need to bring your own food.
 140 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g 141

Getting There & Away MADANG MADANG

There are no longer any scheduled flights
to Wau although North Coast Aviation and
Tropicair fly charters from Lae and Port
Moresby to those who can afford it. Wau’s
airstrip is one of the steepest in PNG, falling
91m in its 1km length.
PMVs to Lae (K12, three hours) leave
Wau between 6am and 7am most days from
Donna’s Stoa. They run via Bulolo (K7,
two hours).
Madang is a little shyer, a little more re-
served than her sisters. Like a Melanesian
maiden from a cliché in a South Pacific mu-
sical, Madang is often dubbed the ‘Prettiest
town in the Pacific’. And to be sure, she has
obvious charms – perched on a peninsula
as she is, surrounded by picturesque is-
lands and sprinkled with parks, ponds and
water-lily-filled waterways.
Madang’s warm, wet climate and fertile soil
produce luxuriant growth. Many of the huge
0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Madang Resort Hotel and Kalibobo
ANZ...................................................1 A3
Bank South Pacific..............................2 A3
Cemetery.........................................14 A3
Coastwatchers' Memorial................ 15 D4
Village Resort...............................24 D4
Smugglers Inn Resort....................... 25 C6
1 Bank South Pacific ATM Lobby...........3 A3 Flying Foxes.....................................16 A3
Divine Word University.......................4 B5 Lion's Reserve Beach........................17 C6 EATING
Family Clinic.......................................5 A3 Madang Country Club...................(see 26) Eden Restaurant............................... 26 D5
Madang General Hospital.................. 6 C6 Madang Museum............................(see 8) Haus Win Restaurant.....................(see 24)
Police..................................................7 B3 Niugini Diving Adventrues..............(see 24) Janek Aben Restaurant...................(see 24)
Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau....8 C6 RSL Park Beach................................18 D5 Madang Club...................................27 A3
Melanesian Tourist Services............(see 24) Yacht Club.......................................19 A3 Rukaen...........................................(see 24)
Niugini InfoTech.................................9 A3
Post Office.......................................10 A3 SLEEPING SHOPPING
Provincial Government Offices.........11 B6 Coastwatchers Hotel........................ 20 D4 Cash & Carry................................... 28 A4

MENYAMYA & ASEKI
Menyamya, in the heart of Anga country, is
casuarina trees that tower over the Madang
Telekom...........................................12 A3
Westpac...........................................13 A3
CWA Guesthouse.............................21
Lutheran Guesthouse.......................22
B3
D4
Market.............................................29 B3
Steamships.......................................30 A3
streets support huge colonies of flying foxes. Madang Lodge................................ 23 C6
TRANSPORT

truly remote. Those who make the signifi-
cant effort to get here usually come to see the
smoked bodies at Aseki or Watama, nearer to
Menyamya. The Anga used to smoke their
dead and leave the mummified bodies in bur-
ial caves. These days they practise Christian
burials, though a very small number choose
The trees may have escaped WWII relatively
unscathed but Madang itself wasn’t so lucky.
The town was rebuilt after it was virtually
destroyed during the Japanese occupation and
subsequent fighting.
Madang is PNG’s most tourist-oriented city
and provides a range of facilities with some
ὈὈ
2 Air Niugini........................................31 A3
Budget...........................................(see 20)
Hertz................................................32 C6
Lutheran Shipping............................33 A4
PMV Boats to Karkar Island..............34 C4
PMV Boats to Kranget & Siar Islands..35 B3
PMV Stop........................................36 A4
Rab-Trad Wharf...............................37 A3
Yamilon
0 200 m

ὈὈ ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
Dr
0 0.1 miles
the traditional death rites. excellent places to stay in all price brackets. 5 Madang

Dolima
27 35
19 Harbour
The best place to view a smoked body is ten Coast 21
MOROBE & MADANG

MOROBE & MADANG

1
tos w
12 10 Batesatchers
Pa t Ave
at Watama, a village within an easy walk of Orientation 3 S 2 Naradamon Mitibog

St
Memorial

Nu
13 31 16 Park

na S
Krangket
PROVINCES

PROVINCES
Menyamya. Ask at the Menyamya provin- Madang is built on a peninsula surrounded 9 Rd 7 Lagoon

t
gt en 30
Kasa

Serilon
cial authority, which will contact the relevant by harbours, bays and nearby islands. The

Balem

Yamauan St
Krangket
Dalman St
Biliau I
village elders. main road is Modilon Rd, which runs vaguely

Nanulon St

St
St

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Kudam

St
3 Krangket I
The Anga Development Authority (%474 0211) north–south and connects the town centre to 37 14 29
Ragetta Mission

has a guesthouse but food is not always avail- the hotels, schools and hospital in Madang’s Badaten Rd

M
Nui I Da

Yam St
od
llm
able. Alternatively, ask around and you’ll soon south. Coronation Dr follows the coast past 28 36 an Cape

ilo
Tilom St Pa Jantzen

n
Timin I ssa
find someone to spend the night with. Madang’s affluent neighbourhood, the golf 33

Rd
ge
e W harfs 24
Kaislan Av Main See Enlargement Co
course and the Coastwatchers’ Memorial to Bode Co
ast
wa
Getting There & Away the Madang Resort Hotel on the peninsu- 4
Madang
Point
34
ral
ita
tch
ers
Kalibobo
Point

ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
St

St
North Coast Aviation (p134) drops in on la’s northern point. The airport is 7km out Airport 22 15

Yamauani
M
20
Menyamya and Aseki on request as it flies

Poinciana
of town.

od

Ave
Botanic

ilo
Coastal
Gardens
between Kerema and Lae three times a week.

nR
Park

d
A road runs from Bulolo up to Aseki then

Mei r
MAPS

St
Rd

Regin
Rd
on to Menyamya through some extremely The Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau

Airport
o
Sir Donald

lau

a
iv e Biliau

R
Cleland Park
rough and absolutely spectacular country. (p142) has a free visitors’ map, and the

Bil
r d 26
Village
al R Binnen obo
Dr
aid Kalib Cape
In Bulolo, PMVs usually leave from the

ὈὈὈὈ
B Harbour
phone book has some excellent maps in its

Bauhinia
Golf

Ave
To Alexishafen Rd Course Kusseron

Binnen
Wabu Trade Store (%474 5352). The road actually front pages. (26km)
Dr
Hibiscus Ave n

Bougai
bypasses Aseki, so if you’re going there, make 5 Pook I
na
tio

Ave
o
or
sure the driver knows to take you into the vil- Information

nvillea
C
Cr a
es Ixo
lage. In the wet, you practically need a boat.

e
EMERGENCY nd s

Av
l
ra ma Cre

Da
Coastal

Dr
Ku Av Park
No

Ala
r
Ambulance (%852 2022) e

a
ve
sb

ssi
rt

au 18

Ri
h

Ca
Fire (%852 2777/2245) Rd Pe

MADANG PROVINCE
gol
4 Na t
Avrea
Co

ba

Wa
Rd e
as

Police (%852 3233, 149; Yamauan St) sa

t

u Rd 8
lia
Bi
Hw

M
am
ok 25
Madang Province is PNG in miniature. It has 17
y

Baidal Rd

St 32

St
INTERNET ACCESS

Rd
coastal people, islanders, mountain people

n
23

ta
Divine Word University (Nabasa Rd; per hr K15) Has

Um

n
Lo

ilo
and river dwellers. The fertile coastal strip is tu Astrolabe

od
the only broadband in town, possibly the province. 6 St Bay

M
backed by some of the most rugged moun- Niugini InfoTech (%852 3899; Kasagten Rd; per hr To Yabob (2km); 6
Bilbil Villages (9km); BISMARCK
tains in PNG – the Adelbert and Schrader K15, CD burning K20) The best connections are in the Balek Wildlife Sanctuary (10km); SEA
Ohu Butterfly Habitat (15km)
Range to the north, and the Finisterre Range morning – it’s all over by lunch. Jacunda Point
11
to the south.
 142 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g
MEDICAL SERVICES
Pharmacies are well represented.
Family Clinic (%852 2828; Coastwatchers Rd) Has an
Australian doctor on the staff.
Madang General Hospital (%852 2022; Modilon Rd)
At the southern end of town, with a casualty ward.
MONEY
All major hotels cash travellers cheques, often
at a rate that’s competitive with the banks.
There can be long queues at the banks. Major
credit cards are widely accepted.
ANZ (%852 2866; Coastwatchers Ave) Opposite BSP
and has ATMs. Charges 1% commission on travellers
cheques.
Bank South Pacific (BSP; %852 2477; Coastwatchers
Ave) Charges a flat K50 to change travellers cheques. It has
an ATM lobby in the Beckslea Plaza on Nanulon St.
Westpac (%852 2213; Nuna St) No ATMs. No commis-
sion to change travellers cheques.
POST
Post Office (%852 2006; Nuna St)
MOROBE & MADANG
TELEPHONE
PROVINCES
Telikom (Nuna St) Next to the post office. It has public
phones outside.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau (%852 3302;
www.madangtourism.com; Modilon Rd; h8.30am-
4.30pm) It’s hard to overstate how much impact Toshi
Kinoshita, a Japanese JICA volunteer, has made at this
bureau. Often at his own expense, Toshi has researched the
entire province, reviewing its attractions and road-testing
the accommodation options. Hopefully his legacy will
continue when he returns home.
Melanesian Tourist Services (MTS; %852 2766;
www.mtspng.com; Madang Resort Hotel, Coastwatchers
Ave) Runs local tours (opposite) and books airline tickets.
Sights
On an overgrown grassy mound in the centre
of town is the old cemetery. Tombstones have
fallen over and become illegible with time, but
it’s an interesting reminder of the German and
Australian colonial days.
The 30m-high Coastwatchers’ Memorial bea-
con, visible 25km out to sea, is a reminder of
those who stayed behind enemy lines during
WWII to report on Japanese troop and ship
movements. It’s a rather ugly concrete me-
morial, but the 3km beachfront road south
of the memorial is the most pleasant walk in
Madang, fringed by palm trees and poincianas
lonelyplanet.com
and backed by the golf course with fine views
across Astrolabe Bay.
The local Madang museum (%852 3302; www
.madangtourism.com; Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau,
Modilon Rd; h8.30am-4.30pm, Mon-Fri) is a small
but fascinating place. Look for the ceremo-
nial headdress from Bosmum village on the
Lower Ramu River. These are worn dur-
ing the ‘cleansing of the blood’, the time in
which blood is drawn from a boy’s tongue
and penis as part of an initiation rite to
manhood (ouch!).
Madang must be Batman’s idea of paradise –
filled with bats but with sun, sand and palm
trees. You can’t miss them, they’re every-
where; wheeling overhead all day, constantly
disturbed by the town noises below and local
boys who like to take pot shots at them with
their slingshots (apparently they taste de-
licious). Locals told us that these Kwandi
(Spectacled Flying Foxes) moved into town
in the mid-’70s, although no one could say
why. The most surprising thing is with so
many bats (roughly 7000) there is so little
bat shit.
Activities
Excellent visibility, stunning tropical coral
and fish life and countless WWII wrecks
make the diving and snorkelling around
Madang world famous. Local favourites in-
clude Barracuda Point, Magic Passage, Planet
Rock and Eel Gardens. There’s also good
snorkelling just off Lion’s Reserve Beach and
off the rocks at Madang Lodge and Smugglers
Inn Resort, but watch the swell and the tides
because the rocks, coral and sea urchins can
be hazardous.
For more information on diving in Madang,
see p56.
Both operators listed run PADI open-water
certification (around K1000), snorkelling
cruises and one-day, two-dive packages (K220
to K290), of which the combination wreck/
reef dive gives you the best of both worlds.
You can also hire gear from both shops.
Aquaventures PNG (%853 3123; www.aquaventures
-png.com.pg; Jais Aben Resort) Located 22km north of
Madang at Jais Aben Resort (p146), Aquaventures won a
PADI environmental award for raising locals’ awareness of
reef ecology and sustainable fishing practices. If you dive
the nearby Mitchell B-25 bomber, ask to read its folder of
information about the wreck. The brutally brief ‘lost-in-
action’ telegrams are quite moving. Aquaventures comes
highly recommended.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Niugini Diving Adventures (%852 2655; www.mts
png.com; Madang Resort Hotel, Coastwatchers Ave) The
equipment here is older than that of Aquaventures. Night
diving is available.
Some small swimming beaches are on Coronation
Dr, but the best ones are on the nearby
Krangket (p145) and Siar Islands (p145).
For golf enthusiasts, the Madang Country
Club (%852 2181; Coronation Dr) is the place to
stomp some divots. Madang Resort and
Coastwatchers Hotel are both corporate mem-
bers of this beachside, nine-hole course and
the clubhouse is a great place for a beer.
Tours
Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau (opposite)
offers plenty of suggestions and practical ad-
vice for day tours and excursions.
Madang Resort Hotel’s Melanesian
Tourist Services (opposite) runs village tours
(half-/full day K90/180) to the south coast stopping
at lookout points, war memorials and Bilbil
village to buy pottery. Its harbour cruise (half-
/full day K95/162) uses banana boats to visit the
rusting wreckage of Japanese landing craft
and takes in coral viewing through glass-
bottomed boxes at Krangket Island. Also
operating out of Madang Resort is the new
MTS Suwannee River, a 98-foot, luxurious live-
aboard boat that is available for dive and
fishing charters.
Festivals & Events
The four-day Mabarosa Festival is supposedly
held annually in August or September al-
though it was cancelled in 2007. It features
singsing groups from all over the country
and there’s a canoe race from Krangket
Island to Madang, parades and live bands.
The Madang Provincial Government Day is cel-
ebrated in early August, and Independence Day
on 16 September is celebrated with gusto.
Sleeping
Madang has some of the best accommoda-
tion options in the country, from budget
stays to plush resorts.
Lutheran Guesthouse (%852 2589; lghm@global
.net.pg; Coralita St; s/d/f K66/77/98, self-contained units
K132) Breakfast is included and additional
meals are K15. If fully occupied, solo trav-
ellers are expected to share and each room,
although basic, has its own bathroom. The
self-contained unit sleeps five.
MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g 143
CWA Guesthouse (%852 2216; cwa@global.net.pg;
Coastwatchers Ave; dm/s/tw/tr K55/85/110/165) It’s pretty
clean, pretty basic and pretty central – on
the waterfront near the town centre. You can
borrow-a-book (K1) and there is a Saturday
morning coffeeshop on site. Bathroom fa-
cilities are shared except in the self-contained
family room. Meals aren’t served but there’s a
communal kitchen.
oMadang Lodge (%852 3395; www.madang
lodge.com.pg; Modilon Rd; s K72-214, d K88-248; as)
With something for everyone and a stone’s
throw from some great snorkelling, this is
one of the best places to stay in PNG. There’s
a variety of rooms for a variety of budgets.
The backpacker rooms are simple, fan-cooled
affairs, while the top-end, semidetached bun-
galows have a kitchenette, cable TV and air-
con. All of them are good value for money.
Scattered about the manicured grounds you’ll
find a stunning array of orchids, a seaside pool,
carver’s workshop and waterfront restaurant
(meals K25 to K50; open 6am to 9.30am, 11am
MOROBE & MADANG
to 1.30pm and 4pm to 9pm).
Smugglers Inn Resort (%852 2744; smugglers@
PROVINCES
daltron.com.pg; Modilon Rd; s K140-340, d K159-363; as)
Over the years the shine has been polished off
this hotel; the rooms need updating and the
pool needs chlorine. It was once a great place
to stay and could be again. The waterfront
views are spectacular from the traditional,
haus win restaurant (meals K22 to K45; open
breakfast, lunch and dinner). The menu
includes lobster pernod (K33) and mumu
chicken (K31).
Coastwatchers Hotel (%852 2684; www.coralseahotels
.com.pg; Coastwatchers Ave; r K231-324; ais) As the
name implies, this Coral Sea Hotel enjoys ocean
views – but not from every room. It’s a modern,
tasteful complex adjacent to the Coastwatchers’
Memorial and the golf course. The rooms are
large and some are split over two storeys, ideal
for families or groups. Coastwatchers offers
weekend discounts and loyalty points to Qantas
Frequent Flyer members. There’s good dining
in Coasties Restaurant and Bar (meals K35 to
K45; open 6am to 9.30am, 11.30am to 2pm
and 6pm to 10.30pm) upstairs on the open-air
veranda. On a muggy night it catches a pleasant
breeze, and the lazy fans and cane furniture add
to the tropical ambience. A buffet is served on
Thursdays (K44).
Madang Resort Hotel and Kalibobo Village Resort
(%852 2655; www.mtspng.com; Coastwatchers Ave; s K210-
510, d K230-530 plus tax; ais) Madang Resort
 144 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g
and Kalibobo Village are owned by the same
people, sit side by side, share facilities but are
run separately. Both are five star all the way:
enormous waterfront grounds, three pools,
some brilliant orchid gardens, various wildlife
menageries, a carvers’ workshop, poolside
bars and restaurants, a conference centre,
travel agent and dive shop (p142). Rooms
range from Presidential Suites to cottages and
everything in between.
Eating
The overall standard for restaurant dining
in Madang is probably PNG’s best outside of
Port Moresby’s.
Janek Aben Restaurant (%854 1323; Coastwatchers
Ave; meals K18-35; h6.30-9.30am & 10am-3pm) This
restaurant serves breakfast and informal
lunches. Located in the Madang Resort Hotel
and Kalibobo Village Resort.
oEden Restaurant (%852 3198; Coronation
Dr; meals K20-30; h10.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-
Sat, 5.30-10pm Sun) Admittedly, this restaurant
MOROBE & MADANG
doesn’t make much of a first impression; it’s
right on the foreshore but cleverly designed
PROVINCES
to have no views at all. But people don’t come
for the view, they come for the fantastic lunch-
time specials (K12) and a bowl of fiery seafood
laksa (curry noodles) that’s guaranteed to
knock your socks off. The dinner mains come
in three sizes and are made to share – bring
your friends. For the views, stroll on through
to the Madang Country Club’s clubhouse and
buy yourself a beer.
Madang Club (%852 1384; Coastwatchers Ave; meals
K25; h11am-2pm & 6pm-10pm Mon-Sat, 6pm-10pm Sun)
Get here early to secure a table on the small
harbourside veranda. The predominately
Chinese/Malay lunch-time specials (K10)
are very popular.
Rukaen (%854 1309; Coastwatchers Ave; meals K30-
48) The menu features a range of Japanese
dishes and shabu-shabu (hotpot) is served
here by request.
Haus Win Restaurant (%854 1333; Coastwatchers
Ave; meals K35-65; h6.30pm-9.30pm) This restau-
rant, located in the Madang Resort Hotel
and Kalibobo Village Resort, has an excel-
lent international menu, a seafood buffet
(K66) on Saturdays and a Sunday barbeque
sizzle (K65).
Shopping
Bilbil clay pots are a local speciality,
Highlanders come down with some bilums
lonelyplanet.com
and hats, and you’ll see Bukaware and items
from the Sepik. Have a look through the
market and in the carvers’ huts attached to
Madang Lodge and Madang Resort Hotel. All
the hotels have gift shops.
The market has fruit and vegetables as well
as some clothing, bilums and local shell jewel-
lery. The large Cash & Carry and Steamships
trade stores carry pretty much everything you
might need, including bush knives, kerosene
lamps, food and clothing.
Getting There & Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The airport is 7km out from Madang. Most
of the hotels and guesthouses have compli-
mentary airport transfers and will meet your
flight. PMVs run along Independence Dr and
into town (K2).
AIR
Madang was headquarters of the now defunct
Airlink and is consequentially feeling the
pinch of the airline’s demise. Planes don’t fly
between 5pm and 8pm (when the flying foxes
leave their roosts) for fear of bat-strike!
Air Niugini (%852 2699; fax 852 2849; Nuna St) has
flights into Madang daily from Port Moresby
(K487, one hour) and Wewak (K360, 40 min-
utes) and Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
flights to Lae (K270, 30 minutes), Kimbe
(K556) Rabaul (K710) and Kavieng (K660).
MAF (%852 2229) and Island Airways (%852
2601) are both based at the airport and service
many small communities in remote areas.
Their schedules vary with passenger require-
ments but if you are heading to the Finisterre
or Bismarck Ranges or the Ramu Valley
(Aiome, Simbai or Teptep), these are the guys
to see. Island Airways also flies to Mt Hagen.
To charter a Cessna capable of carrying four
people plus luggage costs around K1450 per
hour of flying time.
BOAT
Lutheran Shipping (Luship; % 852 2577; luship.ma
dang@global.net.pg; Modilon Rd) is predominantly
a cargo carrier but it is possible to secure
passage on the weekly boat to Wewak (K79
to K107, Monday night departure), the fort-
nightly boat to Vanimo (via Aitape; K107
to K192) or the monthly boat to Lorengau
(Manus Island). There are two classes but
apparently little difference between them –
both can be packed.
lonelyplanet.com
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; Lae %472 5699) has
no office in town but the staff in the Lae of-
fice should be able to give you the schedule
for the MV Kokopo Queen, which sails twice
monthly to Vanimo (K165, two nights) via
Wewak (K80, overnight). Alternatively the
staff at Luship may be able to help.
CAR
Budget (%852 1144; Coastwatchers Hotel, Coastwatch-
ers Ave) The chauffeur service (per hr K80) includes driver,
tax and fuel.
Hertz (%852 3103; Modilon Rd)
PMV
On the north coast the road is sealed to Bogia.
PMVs travel to Siar village (K1, 35 minutes),
Riwo/Jais Aben (K1, 45 minutes), Malolo (K3,
one hour) and Bogia (K12, four hours).
Heading south along Madang’s main thor-
oughfare, the road becomes the Ramu Hwy
and rises over the tortuous Finisterre Range
into the vast Ramu Valley on its way to Lae;
and via the Highlands Hwy, deep into the cen-
tral mountains. This is very spectacular driv-
ing and the only ‘interstate’ in the country.
Wet seasons wash out bridges in the Ramu
Valley and cause occasional landslides in the
Highlands, but the road is mostly sealed and
in good condition.
Buses gather around the market at 8am
and the door-guys yell out their destinations
‘LaeLaeLaeLae’ and ‘HagenHagenHagen’ with
a great sense of theatre. Once full they head
off. The fare to Lae is K40 (six hours) and to
Goroka K50 (seven hours). The overnight
buses to Mt Hagen (K70) rendezvous with Lae
buses at Watarais where they form a convoy –
presumably for safety.
Local buses include the 6A, which runs
to Barasiko market at the Lae junction, 6B
which continues 3km up the North Coast
Highway and 6C that goes to Yabob village.
All cost K0.50.
AROUND MADANG
Small boats run to the islands in Madang
harbour from an inlet behind the CWA
Guesthouse, hourly or so from 7am to 5.30pm
(K1 to K5).
Krangket Island
Krangket Island, across Dallman Passage from
Madang, is a large island with several villages
and a beautiful lagoon. Krangket has an idyllic
MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d M a d a n g 145
setting where you can swim, snorkel and get
around in an outrigger canoe. There’s a popu-
lar picnic spot, which was a former rest area
for wounded Australian soldiers in the days
following the Japanese surrender in WWII.
Krangket is a lovely spot and worth the K5
locals charge visitors for entry.
Boats from Madang (K0.50, 15 minutes)
drop their passengers about 45 minutes’
walk from the lodge, though you should be
able to negotiate passage to the lodge end of
the island.
The Krangket Island Lodge (%852 3302 Madang
Visitors & Cultural Bureau or 852 2655 Madang Resort Hotel;
s/f K40/80) is operated by the Dum clan (pro-
nounced ‘doom’). It consists of a few com-
fortable bush cottages tucked away from the
village. They’re rustic but come with kitchen-
ette, private bathroom, shower and septic toi-
let. The kitchenette has a gas stove, kerosene
fridge and utensils. There’s fresh linen, but
you need to take your own provisions.
MOROBE & MADANG
Siar Island
Siar is another pretty island with beautiful
PROVINCES
white-sand beaches, great snorkelling and
village guesthouse accommodation. Siar is
a short boat ride (K2) from Madang and has
lots of WWII aircraft wreckage. People come
on the weekend to picnic here. Take a mask
and snorkel.
The Siar Island Guesthouse (%692 1869; s incl
meals K50) is another established grass-roots
guesthouse having been around since the first
edition. In that time not much has changed.
It is still run by Simon Tewa, there is still no
electricity, no plumbing and the toilet is still
a long-drop over the sea – enjoy!
Yabob
Take the main Modilon Rd south out of
Madang and you’ll come to the Yabob road
forking left just after the hospital. It passes a
lookout and a Japanese memorial on its way
down to Yabob village. There’s a little island
offshore, which you can reach by canoe.
Before Europeans came, Yabob was famous
for fine clay pots that were traded along the
coast, but not nowadays.
Bilbil
This attractive village still produces pottery
and traditionally made some of the Pacific’s
largest ocean-going canoes. Take the first road
left after the Gum River, off the Ramu Hwy;
 146 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t H i g h w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t H i g h w a y 147

production of Robinson Crusoe with Pierce off the main road. It’s a pretty place on its own ‘Alexishafen’ is derived from the combination
AROUND MADANG Brosnan. There’s a sulphur creek that flows little peninsula, with beaches and lawns. The of the German word for harbour, hafen, and

ὄὄ
0 4 km
0 2 miles
from a huge limestone formation. Spirits beachside bungalows are large and comfortable, the first name of a Russian princess, Alexis.
To Baragam (26km); Bogia (153km)
inhabit the site and the water has curative with enclosed verandas and seafront outlooks. The graveyard here stands as a reminder
Sek
properties. The water is incredibly clear and All have fans and TV, some have kitchens. to the early missionary period. Beyond
Harbour you can feed eels and turtles with bananas and The newer ‘deluxe’ bungalows are flashier and the mission you can see the old overgrown
Sek I
fresh meat. The best time to see butterflies is have air-con. There’s a beachfront bar where missionary-built airstrip.
Alexishafen
either around 10am or between 3pm and 5pm. burgers and steaks (K15) are served and a fine Like so much of the area, Alexishafen was
WWII Japanese
Aircraft Wrecks
Catch a 15B PMV from town (K2). restaurant (meals K33) whose changing menu badly damaged during the war. The WWII
incorporates local and international dishes. Japanese airstrip (a little off the road to the left,
Amron
Mililat Ohu Jais Aben offers half-day tours (K45) to between the mission airstrip and Alexishafen)
Harbour
The Ohu Butterfly Habitat (%852 2303; person/family nearby villages and the surrounding lagoon is now threatened by the encroaching jungle.
K10/15; h7am-3pm), 15km southwest of Madang, is perfect for snorkelling and kayaking. It is a Only bomb craters and the odd aircraft wreck
Kau Rainforest
Wonad I is a community conservation and research popular place to stay for divers as Aquaventures hint at the saturation bombing that destroyed
Museum &
Conservation
Tabad I project where butterflies, including PNG’s fa- (p142) has its dive shop and jetty next door. the base. The most impressive of these air-
Jais Aben Resort
Area
Aquaventures PNG mous birdwing varieties, feed on the nectar of Town and airport transfers are free for guests. craft wrecks is the Japanese Donryu, next to
Nagada Harbour the flowering aristolochia. Catch a 13B PMV PMV 17A runs along the main road from the bomb crater that destroyed it. Nearer to
Nobonob
Lutheran
Mission from Madang to the ‘Medo’ drop off from Madang (K1) but stops 1km shy of the resort. the road is the fuselage of an early Junkers
Mission Pig I where it is a 70-minute (5km) walk. mission aircraft.
Amron
Siar
Siar I NORTH COAST HIGHWAY A couple of kilometres further north, off Bargam
The whole north coast offers excellent beaches, to the left of the road, is Amron, the site The annual Bargam Agricultural Show has the
y

Samun I
t Hw

Krangket
I
diving and snorkelling, and some great hills of the Japanese WWII strategic command dual aims of promoting sustainable farming
MOROBE & MADANG

MOROBE & MADANG

as

Biliau Krangket
h Co

I Lagoon and rivers to explore. The road runs north of headquarters. practices and providing an opportunity for
Dall
Madang as far as Bogia from where you have local singsing groups to don their feathers and
PROVINCES

Nort

PROVINCES
Madang man
Pass
Madang
Airport
Harbour age
to walk or catch speed boats if you are head- Kau Rainforest Museum & finery. While not as impressive as its Highland
ing to Wewak. Conservation Area cousins, if you are in Madang during the first
Rd
On the west side of the main coast road, not weekend in September it is worth the hour’s
rt

Nobonob & Nagada Harbour

po

Binnen far from the turn-off to the Jais Aben Resort, drive north. Contact the Madang Visitors &
Air

Harbour
MADANG Beyond the Siar village turn-off on the North
Coast Hwy, 17km from Madang, there are
two turn-offs. The right leads to the Lutheran
Mission on Nagada Harbour. The left leads
to Nobonob Mission outstation, used as a
See Madang Map (p141) Japanese lookout during WWII. It’s about a
20-minute drive. There is a pretty park here
with a fine view over the north coast, Madang
Lookout and the harbour; below the park is one of few
Japanese War
Memorial
remaining virgin rainforests near Madang.
Yabob Local guides can show you around and often
y
is a rough track leading to the Kau Rainforest
Museum & Conservation Area.
In 1963, when the PNG logging industry
was in its infancy, the Didipa clan set aside
over 300 hectares of its forest as a wildlife
conservation area. Since then the clan has
protected the area from gardening, burning,
logging and hunting. Today, it is one of the
last significant undisturbed forest remnants
near Madang. In 1992 when the clan refused
to sign an agreement with Japanese loggers,
Cultural Bureau (p142) for details.
Malolo to Hansa Bay and on to Watam
The road continues north to the old Malolo
(pronounced ‘mah-lollo’) plantation, 42km
up the coast, site of the Malolo Plantation
Lodge (p148). The black-sand beaches along
the coast are indicative of volcanic activity
on Karkar and Manam Islands. There’s good
swimming, but watch the currents. The 1996
film production of Robinson Crusoe was

Yabob I
Hw

take in nearby Guntabag village and the spec- an environmental impact report turned up a filmed around here.
u

BISMARCK
tacular Tamolalakud lookout. handful of Madang paradise birdwing but- About 20km on from Malolo, there’s a
m
Ra

SEA
To Balek Wildlife Sanctuary (7km);
Ohu Butterfly Habitat (12km);
Lae; the Highlands
Jais Aben Area
Divers rave about the north coast sites, such
Bilbil
as the US freighter Henry Leith in 20m of
water near Jais Aben Resort, and the nearby
this loops back to the highway or get a PMV minesweeper Boston. The ‘waterhole’ is an
15B (K1) to four-mile market from where it enclosed lagoon connected to the open sea
is a 20-minute walk. by a large underwater tunnel and offers dra-
matic snorkelling. Sinub Island and Tab Island
Balek Wildlife Sanctuary are also recommended snorkelling spots but
This wildlife management area (adult/child/ landowners ask a K5 levy.
student K7/1/2.50) is 10km south of Madang. The Jais Aben Resort (%853 3111; jaisaben@global
It’s featured in scenes from the 1996 film .net.pg; r185-230; ais) is 20km from Madang,
terflies, previously considered extinct.
There’s a small museum that seeks to re-
tain and display traditional knowledge. Ask
here for guides who will teach you about tra-
ditional uses for plants – the sticky sap of
the breadfruit tree can be used as glue, and
two local vines can be used as contraceptives.
PMV 17A can deliver you to ‘Good Shepherd’
from where it is a 10-minute walk.
Alexishafen
Alexishafen Catholic Mission is off the road to
the right, 23km north of Madang. The name
Catholic mission at Magiya. Beyond here is
a road leading inland about 5km to Aronis. A
kilometre from the main village is an aid post,
near which is Manubyai Cave, home to a colony
of horseshoe bats.
Salemben is a small village about a three-
hour drive from Madang inland over rough
roads from Malolo. At 900m above sea level,
the area is home to many birds of paradise
and a nice guesthouse (p148).
Bogia is 185km northwest of Madang
and the departure point for Manam Island.
The road is sealed all the way to Bogia but
 148 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t H i g h w a y
peters out a short distance thereafter be-
fore the mighty Ramu River. At Bogia Bay,
a Japanese Zero fighter lies upside down in
the water a few hundred metres out from the
jetty. Bogia town is a pretty place – the crystal-
clear waters of the bay and the numerous
traditional villages make it an ideal place to
lose a few days.
In 2004 the Manam Island volcano erupted,
displacing 6000 people who fled to the safety
of the mainland. Only 2000 or so have re-
turned. It is possible to visit the still-smoking
island and explore the carnage. Anua Negu
Lodge (right) can arrange a speed boat (K400,
one hour) to run you there and back.
Hansa Bay is a popular diving spot past Bogia,
where the wreckage of 35 Japanese freighters
and US aircraft lie in a shallow harbour. The
upper deck of the 6000-ton Shishi Maru lies in
just 6m of water, two anti-aircraft guns on the
bow point upwards and brass shell castings
litter the deck. Two fire engines are sitting in
the hold, just before the bridge, where they
MOROBE & MADANG
were waiting to be unloaded.
Hansa Bay also has some spectacular wreck
PROVINCES
dives. A Japanese freighter has one davit pro-
jecting from the water (known as the Davit
Wreck); it was sunk in 1943 by US bomb-
ers. You can swim through the wreck, which
makes this an exciting dive in only 12m of
water. Nearby, in 10m of water, is the Mast
Wreck, with its mast protruding from the
water; there is a gun on the bow, ammuni-
tion on the deck and a field artillery piece in
the hold. The Madang dive shops organise
dives to Hansa Bay and other north-coast
sites. See p142.
There’s some marine-biology research
happening on Laing Island in Hansa Bay,
a beautiful island with white beaches and
good snorkelling.
After Bogia is a series of old coconut plan-
tations, now home to many Manam Island
relocation camps. Villagers have cut patches
into the plantations to grow their gardens.
Eventually the road narrows to a single-lane
track and abruptly ends at a small, deep tidal
river. If you are not up for swimming, hail
the villagers on the other side for a lift in
their canoe.
To walk to the Ramu River mouth either fol-
low the inland footpath through a swamp then
onto the beach, or head for the beach directly.
The Ramu is too large to swim, so wave and
shout madly to the folks in the fishing camp
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
on the western shore. If you are heading up
the Ramu ask the men around here about boat
departures otherwise continue walking along
the coast (low tide only), through Marangis
village, to Watam. Due to its strategic position,
it is not surprising that Watam is one of the
bigger villages in the area. Ask around for
Felix Eddie who speaks excellent English and
is knowledgeable on this area. From Watam,
banana boats regularly leave for Angoram on
the Sepik River.
SLEEPING
Keki Eco-Mountain Lodge (%852 3302 Madang Visitors
& Cultural Bureau; Salemben; r per person K30) Perched
high on a ridge, two traditional bungalows
have double rooms and cooking facilities. At
around 900m above sea level it’s a great place
for birding, and birds of paradise often sit atop
the lodge roof. It’s difficult to get to though
– catch a PMV from Madang to Bunabum
junction and walk the remaining 26km (eight
hours) or BYO 4WD.
Anua Negu Lodge (Nigugini Electrical Gas; %852 2923,
852 2005; gatibong@datec.net.pg; Bogia; s K60) Recently
opened and mere metres from the waves, this
lodge has eight basic rooms and generator-
supplied electricity. If you can’t face yet an-
other pack of instant noodles the women here
will cook meals upon request. The lodge of-
fers jeep tours to nearby beaches where it
is possible to snorkel US and Japanese war
wrecks (BYO gear). It can also arrange a
day trip to the smoking, volcanic island of
Manam (K400).
Malolo Plantation Lodge (%542 1438; Mt Hagen;
www.pngtours.com; s/d US$305/400; as) In lovely
surrounds and fronting a long black-sand
beach, the lodge operated by Trans Niugini
Tours (p165) was once a plantation house.
The grounds are planted with orchids and
stag-horn ferns, and birds abound, includ-
ing a tame kokomo (horn bill) featured in
Robinson Crusoe. Malolo is sometimes empty,
catering as it does for mostly inbound pack-
age tourists who spend a few days in each of
Trans Niugini Tours’ hotels around PNG. It’s
a very nice place, but it’s way overpriced for a
walk-up punter.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The 17C PMV runs from Madang to Malolo for
K3. It’s more than three hours’ drive to Bogia
and PMVs travel up daily (K12). Besides walk-
ing the best way to get from Bogia to the Sepik
lonelyplanet.com
is to either catch a bus to Boroi and canoe to
Watam, or catch a PMV to the Ramu River base
camp (K5) and from there catch a PMV boat
(or charter your own) to Watam. From Watam
boats leave for Angoram on the Sepik.
INLAND
There are some isolated and interesting places
in central Madang Province. The Ramu is
one of PNG’s great rivers and its broad val-
ley is sugar cane and cattle country. The
Ramu Sugar Refinery is a major industrial
development, designed to make PNG self-
sufficient in sugar. The Ramu Valley is also
a major fault zone, prone to earthquakes and
wet-season floods.
Simbai
The big attraction here is an opportunity to
witness the everyday workings of a rural vil-
lage cut off from the rest of the world. Don’t,
however, expect ‘natives-in-loin-cloths’ – in-
stead you’ll find a people, despite their isola-
tion, both well informed and politically savvy.
That and really cool singsings.
The community-built Kalam Guest House
(s/d/tr K25/35/50) is the only place to stay. It’s 15
minutes from Simbai Station, and constructed
from bush materials. Vegetarian fare (K8 to
K15) is provided but bring your own protein
(eggs, meat or canned fish).
The locals have rallied and organised treks
and homestays as far afield as the Ramu River.
In Madang contact MAF (%852 2229) or Esron
Dotch (%852 3416) well in advance so the vil-
lage can prepare for your arrival, especially
if you want them to perform a traditional
singsing (K300). In Simbai contact Dickson
Kangi (ask around to find him), who speaks
on behalf of the chief, Ernest Simgi. The
Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau is also
worth contacting (p142).
The inaugural Kalam Culture Festival was
held in 2005. In 2006 there were nine tour-
ists, in 2007 only 14. Held in the third week
of September the festival is a unique chance
to witness traditional ceremonies which are
normally closed to tourists – adult initiation
rites, bride-price exchanges and pig-killing
festivities. There is talk of making the festi-
val a biannual event; check with the Madang
Visitors & Cultural Bureau (p142) first.
Simbai is 45 minutes from Madang Airport
by Island Airways Cessna (K290) or about 30
minutes from Mt Hagen with MAF (K190).
MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • I n l a n d 149
SIMBAI TO THE RAMU RIVER TREK
It is possible to walk and raft from Simbai
to the Ramu River base camp in five to six
days. This route, developed by the Simbai
villagers, only opened in 2007 and repre-
sents a fantastic opportunity to experience
something truly unique. Guides are essential
(who else will have the homestay contacts?)
and while it isn’t a patch on the Kokoda
Track, you will need to be capable of walk-
ing all day.
The first day’s eight-hour walk from
Simbai brings you to Kenenj where you can
overnight. Depending on your fitness level it
may be wise to split this leg over two days.
From there it’s a shorter day’s walk to Aiome
and a final day’s trek brings you to Akaraski
on the banks of the Ramu River.
From here catch a raft downriver to
Kwanga (overnight) and then a motorised
canoe to the Ramu River base camp just
after Bunapas. From the base camp it is pos-
sible to then catch a PMV to Madang or a
MOROBE & MADANG
boat to Watam (for the Sepik). With some
advance planning it is possible to arrange
PROVINCES
the jeep from Anua Negu Lodge (opposite)
to collect you.
Bundi & Brahmin
Bundi is a six-hour walk from Brahmin
Mission, and Brahmin is about 25km west
from the Lae–Madang road. PMVs travel
from Madang to Brahmin (K10, two hours).
There are some simple bungalows in Bundi
at Mt Sinai Centre (Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau
% 852 3302). This is midway on the walk
down to Madang from the Highlands, and
about the only place to stay in the region.
SOUTH OF MADANG
The Rai Coast Highway connects Madang to
Lae on paper only, although it may be possible
to get through in a 4WD in the dry season.
Otherwise travel down the coast is by speed
boat (aka banana boat) and into the mighty
Finisterre Range by MAF light aircraft.
Bandit
In an effort to revive their culture, the
Dugu Roots Growers Association launched
the Umboldi Cultural Show in February 2007.
There were only five or six groups in attend-
ance, but what the show lacked in numbers
the 3m-tall wicker headdresses made up for
in size.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
150 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • I s l a n d s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • I s l a n d s 151

basalt and seek permission from the villagers that in a hurry; two hours, K50) leave from
‘ROOS IN TREES as the crater has religious significance. Madang’s Rab-Trad wharf.
The last place you expect to find a kangaroo is in a tree. At first glance they seem rather ill-suited A road encircles the island and it takes four Alternatively catch the 17C PMV north to
to an arboreal lifestyle – monkeys, yes; kangaroos, no. Whenever people think of kangaroos they hours to drive around. You can also walk Kubugam (K5, one hour) and from there a
imagine great big brutes bounding across the vast Australian deserts, not these furry little fel- around, but treat the river crossings with cau- speedboat to either Kinim or Biabi (K30).
las clambering up New Guinea trees. It doesn’t seem right, but the staff at the Woodland Park tion. When it rains on the mountain, water
Zoo in Seattle, USA and the headquarters of the Tree Kangaroo Conservation Program (TKCP; comes down these rivers like a wall – there Manam Island
www.zoo.org/conservation/treeroo.html) assured us they are a kind of kangaroo alright, ‘right down have been deaths. Karkar is encircled by a reef Manam is 15km offshore from Bogia. It’s an
to their pouches’. and has good beaches and snorkelling. almost perfect volcanic cone, rising to 1829m.
There are 10 species of tree kangaroos – all with incredibly long tails for balancing (hence their The high school and the airstrip are at the The soil is extremely fertile and very produc-
Tok Pisin name: kapul longpela tel) and large claws to assist in climbing. And furthermore, if they government station at Kinim. tive, but the volcano has blown 23 times in the
do fall (or jump), they invariably land safely and hop off with true kangaroo aplomb. Tugutugu Guesthouse (per person K60; meals K5-15) last 100 years. It erupted in 1996 and 1997,
The TKCP is particularly active in the mountains and villages of the Kabwum District including is the only accommodation on the island and killing 30 people and wiping out villages.
Teptep village, collaborating with locals to protect the species and conserve their habitat on the about 3km from Kulili wharf (45 minutes At night the crater glows and spurts orange
Huon Peninsula. The result is a community-based conservation programme that has been working by foot), and 10km from Kinim wharf. The trailers into the sky. There is a seismological
to create PNG’s first official Conservation Area under the PNG Conservation Areas Act. guesthouse is set in beautiful grounds and is a observatory on the side of the cone.
Besides being incredibly lucky in the forests near Teptep, your best chance to see one of these 15-minute walk to a white sandy beach where Manam erupted twice again in late 2004
tree-hugging ’roos is at the Rainforest Habitat in Lae (p129) or at the National Botanic Gardens it is possible to rent canoes (K20). causing the rapid evacuation of the island’s
in Port Moresby (p76). 9000 people. It remains one of the world’s
GETTING THERE & AWAY most active volcanoes.
Cargo ships bound for Kulili (MV Medea or Manam is 193km from Madang and not
The celebrations are divided into the day- You will need to prearrange a boat to collect MV Kanaogi, K15, six hours) or Biabi (MV easy to get to. Government and private boats
time ‘red’ singsing, when participants paint you; again, the Madang Visitors & Cultural Thompson or MV Tuali, K15, four hours) leave Bogia for Manam most days, although
MOROBE & MADANG

MOROBE & MADANG

their bodies blood-red and don their head- Bureau (p142) should be able help. and Biabi-bound banana boats (trying saying there is no schedule.
dresses, and the midnight ‘black’ singsing
PROVINCES

when the headdresses are changed for some-
thing less cumbersome.
It takes three to four hours by boat from
Madang to the nearest wharf in Fangel and
from there a further three-hour walk to
Bandit. The Madang Visitors & Cultural
Bureau (p142) should be able to advice on
exact dates.
Teptep
Almost 2000m up in the Finisterre Range,
Teptep is a small, isolated village on the border
with Morobe Province, and is a good base for
trekking in the area. Researchers for the Tree
Kangaroo Conservation Program (see boxed
text, above) visit here but you are unlikely to
come nose to snout with a tree hugging ‘roo
yourself. The Teptep Guesthouse (%852 2229 MAF
in Madang; s K30) has spectacular views and deli-
cious home-grown strawberries. Evenings are
cool, like the Highlands, so come prepared.
MAF flies to Teptep a few times each week
from both Madang (K290) and Lae. An
interesting trip is to fly in and walk out to
Bonga (via Jauptamon) on the coast. It is a
long 13-hour trek down a rain-worn, root-
ridden, muddy path. Locals like to whistle
and yodel as they walk, we prefer to grunt and
groan. Bonga is well known for its dugongs
and sea turtles.
PROVINCES
ISLANDS
Long Island
The largest of the volcanic islands, Long is
48km off the coast. It has two active craters,
one of which contains a lake surrounded by
crater walls that rise to 250m. There are only
a few hundred people on the island and it’s
renowned for prolific birdlife and the many
fish that swarm around its reefs. Turtles come
ashore to lay their eggs at certain times of the
year. Getting there isn’t easy – from Madang,
you can hire a banana boat or catch a lift with
a boat supplying a trade store.
Karkar Island
William Dampier, the English pirate-cum-
explorer, made an early landing on this is-
land. Later, Lutheran missionaries had a hard
time from malaria, volcanic eruptions and
the fierce inhabitants and were temporarily
evicted. Today Karkar has both Catholic and
Lutheran missions.
The island is also one of the most fertile
places in the country with some of the most
productive copra plantations in the world. The © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
volcano erupted violently in 1974 and again restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
in 1979, killing two vulcanologists. It takes
12 hours return to climb the crater (1831m, only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
K135 for a guide); bring plenty of sunscreen everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
152 lonelyplanet.com T H E H I G H L A N D S • • H i s t o r y 153

History Highlanders had long been traders and skilful

The Highlands Kuk Swamp, in the Wahgi Valley (Western

Highlands Province), has evidence of 20,000
years of human habitation. Gardening began
9000 years ago, which makes Papua New
Guineans among the world’s first farmers.
In 1930, after gold rushes in Wau and
Bulolo, Mick Leahy and Mick Dwyer came
to the Highlands searching for gold, and
walked into the previously ‘undiscovered’
The Highlands – dramatic and beautiful, with fertile valleys, turbulent rivers and seemingly Eastern Highlands.
endless, saw-toothed mountains – is the most densely populated and agriculturally produc- In 1933 Leahy returned with his brother
tive region of PNG. It’s hard to imagine that only relatively recently did the outside world Dan and they stumbled upon the huge, fertile
and heavily populated Wahgi Valley. After
come face-to-face with the diverse and artistically inventive tribes that live here.
aerial reconnaissance, they walked in with a
large, well-supplied patrol.
When European explorers made it into PNG’s rugged interior in the 1930s, they didn’t find the
The film First Contact includes original
unbroken tangle of mountains they had expected. Instead they stumbled into broad, heavily footage of this patrol by Mick Leahy and is a
cultivated valleys and a million-plus people. Ironically, it wasn’t the imposing topography but priceless record of the first interaction between
the cultural divide that amazed the participants of this unexpected ‘first contact’. Highlanders and Europeans (see p42).
Missionaries followed the Leahy broth-
Today, the region is a dynamic part of PNG and a unique part of Melanesia. Its peoples’ ers, and government stations were built near
lives are changing quickly, but many aspects of their traditional cultures remain. Clan and present-day Mt Hagen and in the Simbu
Valley, near present-day Kundiawa. The first
tribal loyalties are still very strong. Pigs and gardening remain the two most important things
patrol built an airstrip at Mt Hagen. However,
in life and tribal fighting is still a popular pastime. gold was never found in great quantities.
Not until the 1950s were changes felt, and
Highlanders wear Western sekonhan klos (second-hand clothes) but during the celebrated
even then many areas remained largely unaf-
Highland shows, the feathers, shells, bark, mud quills and skins come out. Only in an anthropolo- fected until the 1960s and ’70s. The construc-
gist’s wildest dreams could you see such a gathering of flamboyant tribes. The shows feature tion of the Highlands Hwy had a huge impact
mud-men and snake-boys, wigmen and skeleton people, and star on tour-group itineraries. on the Highlanders lives, as did the introduc-
tion of cash crops, particularly coffee. The
The region’s five provinces – Eastern Highlands (around Goroka), Simbu (around Kundi-
awa), Western Highlands (around Mt Hagen), Enga (around Wabag) and Southern Highlands
(around Mendi) – have the country’s most extensive road system and an ever growing GAME ON
THE HIGHLANDS
gardeners, and adapted to the cash economy
with remarkable speed.
The dense population and cultural differ-
ences have caused some problems, however.
Ritual warfare has always been an integral
part of Highlands life and to this day pay-
back feuds and land disputes can erupt into
major conflicts – Highlanders are volatile and
passionate people.
Geography & Climate
The Highlands are made up of a series of val-
leys and rugged intervening mountains that
form the watershed for some of the world’s
largest rivers (the Ramu, Sepik, Strickland,
Fly and Purari). The mountains are a central
spine running the length of the island. Several
Highlands mountains exceed 4000m in height,
and Mt Wilhelm, PNG’s highest, is 4509m.
Nights can be cold, particularly at altitude,
but daytime temperatures are very pleasant,
about 24°C to 28°C – ‘perpetual springtime’. In
the mountains, late-afternoon mists can drift
in and billowing clouds can suddenly advance
and envelope everything. The dry season is
May to November for this region, and rains
can be very heavy in the wet season.
Culture
Wealth is essential in establishing status,
and bigmen (leaders) are invariably affluent.

economy based on coffee, tea, gold and copper.
HIGHLIGHTS
„ Bouncing along the stunning Highlands
Hwy (p155) with a truck full of locals
„ Climbing Mt Wilhelm (p162) and seeing the
north and south coasts
„ Photographing the beautifully adorned
performers at one of the Highland shows in
Goroka (p158), Wabag (p168) or Mt Hagen
(p166)
„ Meeting Huli wigmen (p173) and birds of
paradise in the Tari Basin (p173)
„ Visiting magnificent Lake Kutubu (p172) and the Wasi Falls (p172), PNG’s highest falls
„ POPULATION: 1.9 MILLION
THE HIGHLANDS
Land ownership, particularly in the Highlands, is highly complex and very important – disputes
over land are often at the root of tribal war. People can inherit land, not just from their parents,
but from any known ancestor. All descendants of a woman who planted a tree have rights to
its fruit, and people have rights to widely scattered pieces of land.
Besides land-related issues, men will go to war to resolve political differences, settle grudges
or avenge the death of a pig. The usual method of engagement is for both warring parties to
Wabag
Mt Wilhelm
line up opposite each other, spend several hours slinging insults back and forth until eventually
Tari Basin one of the mock charges crosses a tipping point and an all-out battle ensues.
Mt Hagan
Goroka
The conflict is always confined to the parties involved and in the days of crude clubs and
Highlands Hwy steel bush knives it was possible to observe the fight as long as you remained clearly impartial.
Lake Kutubu
In the past, fights have even attracted TV crews and wives bearing packed lunches. However,
Wasi Falls with the advent of guns, and sniper-like tactics, the crowds are a little less inclined to get too
near the action and we certainly do not recommend you attend – well not without some kind
of bullet-proof armour and a crash helmet.
When peace is brokered, it’s usually longstanding. It’s worth scanning newspapers for informa-
tion on conflicts and resolutions. A recent settlement that we read about involved K200,000, a
python, several pigs, beer, two rifles and a cassowary changing hands. Also scan the countryside
for the circular, fenced areas filled with green-and-purple tanget bushes. These are the burial
places of fallen tribal warriors.
„ AREA: 62,500 SQ KM
 154 T H E H I G H L A N D S • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E H I G H L A N D S • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 155

0 60 km Lake Kopiago. The highway is sealed as

HIGHLANDS PROVINCES 0 40 miles
far as Mt Hagen and, in parts, between Mt
To Wewak
SANDAUN
EAST SEPIK PROVINCE Sc Hagen, Mendi and Wabag.
hr
(WEST
SEPIK)
Ce n
t ra l ad
er
The road up from Madang runs through
Ra n g e Aiome BISMARCK
the flat lands of Morobe before it joins the

ᎊᎊ
PROVINCE Ra Utu Mission
(3711m) Yua ng e Madang SEA
Oksapmin Lagaip River t
Highlands Hwy just east of Watarais. Past
River

ENGA Ri
ve Jim Simbai MADANG
Lake
PROVINCE
Kompian
r
iR Mt Herbert Ra
mu PROVINCE Cape
Goroka the road continues through the valley
ive (4267m)
lan
d Kopiago
Baiyer River
r
Bom
Rigny to Asaro, then climbs steeply to the Daulo Pass
ick Laiagam Wabag B
(2450m), and continues twisting and turning

Rive
Str Porgera i Bogadjim Dein
Nose Mountain sm F i Bibi
n i all the way to Mt Hagen, Kundiawa and the

r
Usino
M

(3079m)
WESTERN Tabibuga a s t
ul

Mt Karoma r c er
Wapenamanda HIGHLANDS Wahgi Valley.
le

(3623m) Mt Wilhelm re
Mt Dini
PROVINCE Wamol k Bundi Koropa
r

Mt Hagen (4509m)
(3017m)
R
an Koroba Dome Peaks (3834m)
Banz
Brahmin
Ra R Between Mt Hagen and Mendi the road
(3566m) The Sugarloaf Kegsugl Ra mu an
ge (3718m)
Kandep Tambul
Highllands Hwy W
ag
Kerowagi ng
e Dumpu g is spectacular; you skirt Mt Giluwe, PNG’s
Tari Highlan (3413m) Mt Hagen hi Hw e
ds
Hwy
Minj W
ag
hi
Gembogl
Asaro
y second-highest mountain (4368m), and go

Asa
Pingarip Kup Mt Otto
Margarima Kundiawa
Daulo
Goroka (3546m)
Gusap
through some beautiful valleys. After Mendi

ro R
Mt Huriaga Mt Giluwe Pass
Pararabuk
you pass ceremonial grounds, a suspension

River
(3383m) Kip (4368m) Watarais
er

i
Bena Bena

ve
Riv Kuminga

r
ad Gumine
bridge over the Lai River, the stunning Poroma

ᎊ ᎊ
m SOUTHERN Nipa Va Chuave Kassam
No Mendi
Mt Ialibu lle
HIGHLANDS y Henganofi Yonki
W

Nomad (3465m) Kaiapit Valley and ultimately climb the 2900m pass

Ka
ag

PROVINCE Kar Ialibu

a

u
SIMBU Kilau Kainantu

ge
Poroma Lufa
Ri

Pangia EASTERN Arona overlooking the wide and fertile Tari Basin.

l
Ri
ve

Moro Uma ve PROVINCE

r

r HIGHLANDS
Lake
Kutubu
Er
av
eR
Kagua
er
Mt Michael
(3647m) PROVINCE The road deteriorates after Tari.
Riv To Nadzab;
Mt Bosavi Pimaga iv
er
Tua
Crater Mountain Okapa Obura Lae A fork in the road after Mt Hagen goes to
Mu
(2397m)
Le
bi R
ive
(3280m)
Ri
ver Wabag, and this stretch has some incredibly
on r
jagged mountains and fierce rivers. A reason-

am
Erave Mt Piora
ar (3557m)

rkh
d Kantobo r
M Wasi Falls Ri
ve able road runs north from Mt Hagen through

Ma
ur Wonenara
ra re
Mt Murray Au the spectacular Baiyer Gorge to Baiyer River

Pura
y (2254m) Mt Tabletop
R Mt Akana Marawaka
WESTERN an River (3380m)
(3686m)
and a good road branches off the Mendi road
Gu

ri
PROVINCE ge
av

Ki GULF PROVINCE
ko and continues on to Wabag and Porgera.
i

s Mt Yelia MOROBE
ri
Ri

Ri (3384m)
ve

PROVINCE
ver In 2008 the long anticipated Southern
r

Highlands Gulf Highway will connect

Ceremonial life in the Highlands is centred that bring together thousands of performers sively physical activities if you are to avoid Kikori in the Gulf Province to the Highland
around ostentatious displays of wealth, which and hundreds of tourists. acute mountain sickness (see p324). Highway near Mendi. Undoubtedly PMVs
is part of a wide circle of exchange and inter- Body art and personal decoration in the Bus travel through the Highlands is not will soon travel these previously inacces-
clan relationships, where gifts cement a re- Highlands are particularly refined and incred- nearly as dangerous as the expat commu- sible lands.
lationship with the receiver, who then has ible to look at. In PNG this is called bilas, nity will lead you to believe, but there is
obligations (see boxed text, p171). and while Sepik people and other Papua New an element of risk. Very occasionally there Car
THE HIGHLANDS

THE HIGHLANDS
Payback is common and disputes over Guineans developed powerful carved arts and are hold-ups, buses are ambushed and the You can drive yourself, but you’ll pay a pre-
women, land and pigs are often settled by artefact manufacture, the Highlanders turned passengers are robbed. During times of mium for a hire car and it will have to be a
financial negotiations. Payback can be levied their creative energies mostly on themselves. political tension and tribal war seek advice 4WD. Rental firms often have restrictions on
against a clan for crimes done by an indi- Highlands people are skilled farmers and from locals in each town before heading off remote-area use, which particularly apply to
vidual (the clan is responsible for its people), take pride in their decorative gardens. They to the next town in a PMV (public motor the Highlands. The same risks apply to car
so a murdered man’s clan may kill an other- grow sweet potato in neat mounds about 1.5m vehicle). West of Mendi (p170) can be travel as to bus travel – but at least in a bus
wise innocent party in revenge. Even today in diameter. The mounds are fertilised with particularly volatile. you’re with other people.
when negotiations break down the clans start ashes and are very productive. For more information on car hire in PNG,
fighting. The Highlands is a ‘dry region’, and alcohol Getting There & Around see p317.
Try and see a Highlands singsing (celebra- cannot be purchased outside licensed premises AIR
tory festival or dance); the costumes alone such as hotels, clubs and resorts. However, See the relevant towns for flight details in and PMV
rival anything at Rio de Janeiro’s Carnivale there’s a booming black market in beer and out of the Highlands. PMV travel from the coast to Goroka and
or Sydney’s Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras. all of PNG has a problem with wickedly strong Mt Hagen is safe, easy and cheap. It’s also
Singsings can happen for all sorts of reasons home-brewed alcohol and violence. ROAD TRAVEL incredible country to drive through. PMVs
and they are always spectacular. Highlanders The most important road in PNG starts in don’t go anywhere unless they’re packed to
in traditional costume and face paint dancing Dangers & Annoyances Lae and runs up into the central Highlands. the brim, so expect a squeeze. They usually
in formation and playing their kundus (an Parts of the PNG Highlands are genuinely Where the highway ends depends on your leave from the main market area in town,
hourglass-shaped drum with lizard skin) are high. You should give yourself a few days ac- definition. As a decent road, it now con- and drop you at the market area of the next
really quite a sight. The Goroka Show (p158) climatisation at lower altitudes before taking tinues to Tari, in a rougher condition to town, although the driver will often take you
and the Hagen Show (p166) are annual events on any serious mountain climbing or exces- Koroba and in still rougher condition to to where you’re staying if you ask politely.
 156 E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • G o r o k a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • G o r o k a 157

EASTERN HIGHLANDS DARTS

GOROKA 0
0
600 m
0.4 miles

ὈὈὈ
21 University

Scha
PROVINCE Darts is serious business in the Highlands A B
St
of Goroka C D

ffhaut
To Kundiawa; Kyle
and great fortunes are won and lost on Mt Hagen INFORMATION

S
r
ive

sen
Zok Elliot R To Asaro ANZ Bank....................................1 C2
Undulating kunai- (grass-) covered hills and a single throw. Men play darts at road- ozoi
St zoi Bank South Pacific........................2 C2
Riv ko

y
Hw
side ‘clubs’ where a dozen dartboards are er McG Zo Computer Shop...........................3 C2
neat villages of low-walled round huts are 1 rath
thea
d D
r
DHL...........................................(see 3)

nds
St
fixed to posts sticking out of the ground. Grea
the defining characteristics of the Eastern 13 Goroka Hospital...........................4 A3

hla
22
Highlands. Listen carefully for the secrets The rules are more or less the same as for 20 Police Station................................5 B2

Hig
ὈὈὈ
Post Office...................................6 B2
whispered by the tuffs of grass fixed to the regular darts, but you stand a lot further National Westpac Bank..............................7 C2
23
peaks of roofs of these houses. away – Highlands darts is something be- Water
Park
S p u r

The most heavily populated of all the tween regular darts and javelin throwing. Tanks
va
zo
provinces, the region has had longer con- Sometimes you can see men in traditional o

Ku
n

nd
10
costume playing at village darts clubs.

rd
ia
tact with the West than the other Highland 8 St

a
a
11
Waukaue

G
Rd
provinces and was the first to feel the

McWilliam
ὈὈὈ
2 National 14
25

Wisdom St
impact of the missionaries, prospectors, Park

mercenaries and misfits who have all vis- Orientation McNicholl

15
5 3
St
12

Most of Goroka’s places of interest are clus- Elizabeth St SLEEPING

Garden
ited these parts. Eastern Highlanders live Dr

Gurney St
6

St
1 Bird of Paradise Hotel.................12 C2
tered around the northern end of the airport,

e
24

c
at altitudes between 1500m and 2300m

en
Diwai Hotel Lodge......................13 C1

d
St
although there are a few places to stay, and a 7 Parer2

en

Fox
Goroka Lodge............................14 C2

St
and are a less cohesive group than their

ep
St Lutheran Guesthouse.................15 B2

Ind
Highland cousins. tiny museum, in the streets on the airport’s 26 Mendikwae Guest House...........16 B3
16
western flank. Although the town is small

Edwards Rd
M Mendikwae Lodge.....................17 B3
The mountains of this province form the Numune Pl (O ai

Ikani St
17 ld n Mendikwae Lodge Bed &
headwaters for two of PNG’s most impor- enough to walk around, PMVs run up and St Senofi St
Hw Rd
y) Breakfast................................18 B3
down the stretch of main road, Edwards Rd iya National Sports Institute.............19 A4
Ma 18
tant river systems: the Ramu River, which Leig
h Via
l St
28 Airport Pacific Gardens Hotel.................20 C1
(Highlands Hwy).

(Highlands
3

Morchhause

Go
Research & Conservation Foundation
runs parallel to the coast to the northwest,

Bungi St

Pursehouse St
Rd 4

ro
ma
Transit House.........................21 B1

ka
and the Wahgi and Aure Rivers, which run Ka Salvation Army Motel Units........22 B1
MAPS

Creek
Homate St
YWCA Guesthouse.....................23 B1
south and enter the Gulf of Papua as the

Hwy)
r St
Purari River. The province’s highest point There are some maps in the front pages of EATING
is Mt Michael (3647m). the phone book. Griffiths St Mandarin Restaurant.................24 C2

Airport Rd
SHOPPING
Goripa St
GOROKA Information Brechin St Market.......................................25 B2

Goroka’s high altitude produces cool tem- EMERGENCY TRANSPORT

Asaro Ave
Glover St
peratures and warm people – both can be a Ambulance (%732 1166, 111) 19 Sports
Air Niugini...............................(see 26)
Airport Terminal.........................26 B3

welcome relief from lowland heat and Port
Moresby paranoia. The town has grown
Fire (%732 1111/3) Near the airport terminal.
Police (%732 1222; Elizabeth St)
Melekeni
4 Oval
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Avis.........................................(see 26)
27 Atprojects Office..........................8 C2 Budget.....................................(see 12)
Goroka Trek and Tours..............(see 3) MAF...........................................27 B4

St
from a small outpost in the mid-1950s to 9 JK McCarthy Museum..................9 B4 PMV Stop...................................28 B3
THE HIGHLANDS

THE HIGHLANDS
a major commercial centre, and it’s now INTERNET ACCESS To Kainantu (80km); Mt Kis Lookout..........................10 D2 PMVs to Kundiawa, Lae, Mt
Makinono Lae(290km); Lufa; Raun Raun Theatre.....................11 B2 Hagen..................................(see 25)
the main town in the Eastern Highlands Computer Shop (%732 1944; Elizabeth St; per 15min St
Madang

Province.
Mountains encircle the town which in
turn almost encircles the airport. Leafy
streets, a pleasant climate and all the es-
sential services combine to make it one of
PNG’s most attractive towns. More relaxed
than Mt Hagen, safer than Lae, and caught
between them both means there are decent
roads in and out of town.
The old colonial houses with their spa-
cious verandas on McNicholl St hark back
to pre-independence days, an arguably
wealthier time. Today the main cash crop
is coffee and you’ll see it growing under the
canopies of larger trees in the hills through-
out the district. At 1600m, Goroka enjoys
a ‘perpetual springtime’ of warm days and
cool nights.
K6.60, burn CD K22) Has the best, no make that the only,
connections in town.
MEDICAL SERVICES
There are several pharmacies in town.
Goroka Hospital (%731 2100; Leigh Vial St) One of
the best in the country; also houses the PNG Institute of
Medical Research.
MONEY
Travellers cheques can be cashed at the bigger
hotels as well as banks – compare rates. The
bigger hotels accept major credit cards.
ANZ (%732 2000; Elizabeth St) Has ATMs. Traveller’s
cheques cashed for a flat K3.
Bank South Pacific (%732 1633; Parer St) There are
ATMs in a booth and a foreign-exchange desk inside.
Westpac (%732 1140; Fox St)
POST the post office. Performances are irregular,
DHL (%732 3555; Elizabeth St; h8.30am-5pm) but you might get lucky.
Post Office (%732 2470; Elizabeth St; h8am-4pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am Sat) JK MCCARTHY MUSEUM
JK McCarthy was one of PNG’s legendary
TELEPHONE patrol officers and wrote one of the classic
There are Telikad prepaid public phones near books on New Guinea patrolling – Patrol
the post office and in hotel foyers. into Yesterday. The museum (admission by donation;
h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Sat, 10am-noon Sun)
Sights is not far from the National Sports Institute,
RAUN RAUN THEATRE but a long walk from the town centre.
Goroka’s acclaimed theatre group, Raun Raun Among the exhibits are pottery, weapons,
Theatre, has toured nationally and interna- clothes and musical instruments, and even
tionally. The theatre (%732 1116; Wisdom St) is some grisly jewellery – Anga mourning neck-
a superb building, which blends traditional laces of human fingers! ‘Peer through the mists
materials and modern architecture. It’s lo- of time’ courtesy of a fascinating collection of
cated on parkland about 500m due north of photos – many taken by Mick Leahy when he
 158 E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • G o r o k a
first reached the area in 1933. There are also
WWII relics, including a P-39 Aircobra.
MT KIS LOOKOUT
Wisdom St, beside the post office, leads to a
track that climbs to an excellent lookout, Mt
Kis, so-called because it’s the lovers’ leap of
Goroka. It’s a long, steep walk. There are two
large water tanks halfway there, and a ladder
you can climb to catch spectacular views of the
distant valleys through the pine trees and the
Highlands mist. It’s well worth the effort.
Tours
Many of the local tour operators are one-man
bands, without an office and notoriously dif-
ficult to contact. It is worth checking out the
notice board next to the gift shop in the Bird
of Paradise Hotel and asking the gift-shop
staff for recommendations. Most operators
can arrange a trip to various villages including
that of the Asaro Mudmen, as well as nature
walks and day treks.
Casper Guide Services (%732 9355)
Goroka Trek & Tours (%732 1281; mikata@png
-japan.co.jp; Shop 12B, Bird of Paradise Hotel, Elizabeth
St) Deals mainly with Japanese tours although it also has
English-speaking guides. Advance notice is recommended.
Kuman Tours (%732 2493; yahookumantours@global
.pg.net)
Nokondi Holidays & Tours (%732 3342)
PNG High Country Tours (%732 1682; fax 732 1394)
Samuel Lulu runs tours and treks around the jungles and
caves of the Eastern Highlands and out towards Simbu.
He offers village accommodation in the Namasaro Unggai
THE HIGHLANDS
district west of Goroka.
PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; png.gold@global
.net.pg) In addition to tours, it can arrange billeted accom-
modation during the show for around K90.
Festivals & Events
The Goroka Show (www.gorokashow.com; adult per day/
3 days K100/200, child aged 10-16 K50/100, child aged under 10
free), is held over the Independence Day week-
end (mid-September) at the National Sports
Institute. It attracts more singsing groups than
the Mt Hagen show and there are also bands
and other cultural activities, as well as some
elements of an agricultural show. The show
is the glamour event on the social calendar
for many performers and it is extraordinary
how many feathers one person can squeeze
onto a headdress. Performers all receive a pay-
ment from the proceeds and you are neither
expected nor encouraged to tip individuals.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Make accommodation arrangements early
as many places (especially top-end hotels) are
booked out months in advance. Prices, like a
Highland headdress, go sky-high.
The PNG Coffee Festival (www.easternhighlands.com
.pg; adult/child K4/2) is usually held over the first
weekend in May at the Raun Raun Theatre
(p157). It features singsing groups, contem-
porary music, art exhibitions, a trade fair and
formal coffee ball.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a good range of accommodation op-
tions, from budget rooms to high-end suites.
Besides kai bars (cheap, takeaway food bars),
eating options outside the hotels are few. The
market sells an array of fresh fruit and vegeta-
bles, peanuts and probably a cuscus or two.
National Sports Institute (%732 2391; natspoin@
daltron.com.pg; Glover St; s/d K44/88) If you don’t mind
being this far from the town centre, this is a
good budget option. Bathroom and kitchen
facilities are shared and it’s a lot like a univer-
sity dorm with segregated buildings for men
and women. The spacious grounds are fairly
quiet except when the Goroka show is on next
door. There is a gym, conference facilities and
cafeteria (meals from K10 to K27, open 6am to
7pm). Rates are cheaper for sporting groups,
church affiliates, students and volunteers.
Lutheran Guesthouse (%732 1516; McNicholl St;
dm incl breakfast K50) Right in the centre of town
behind the post office. Clean and straight,
the two-storey house has shared rooms
and facilities.
Research & Conservation Foundation Transit
House (RCF; %732 1320; Kyle St; dm incl breakfast K50)
Recently built, this good-value, dorm-style
accommodation has two bunks per room,
free laundry, a shared kitchen and a TV in
the common room. Profits go to support the
community development within the Crater
Mountain Wildlife Management Area (p160)
and staff can help you plan a trip there. Catch
town bus 3 and get off near the university.
Mendikwae Guest House (%732 2495; Numune
Pl; s/d K66/88) Run by the same crowd as the
Mendikwae Lodge, this place is little more
than a bed in a box. It’s in West Goroka.
Salvation Army Motel Units (%732 1218; McGrath St;
s/d K90/110) Another option where the grounds
are prettier than the accommodation. Good
for self-caterers because the units come with
a kitchenette including a stove and fridge. The
bigger rooms sleep four.
lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d G o r o k a 159
Diwai Hotel Lodge (x732 3840; Greathead Dr; s K125,
d & tw K140) Opened in 2007, the Diwai has a
pleasant outlook over the Zokozoi River but
is a good 10 minutes’ walk from the town
centre. Rooms are comfortable if plain, have
tea- and coffee-making facilities and breakfast
is included in the rate.
Mendikwae Lodge Bed & Breakfast (%732 3466;
Leigh Vial St; tw K165) Run by the same people that
run the Mendikwae Lodge. Rooms share the
large communal lounge and kitchen.
Pacific Gardens Hotel (%732 3418; pacifichotel@
datec.net.pg; Mokara St; d K195-300, ste K395; i) In the
grounds of an expats’ residential estate, this
hotel has recently been upgraded and is all
the better for it. The vast, hilly property has
an eco-lodge vibe with its lovely lawns and
adjacent river. There are also meals-inclusive
packages and airport transfers available. The
restaurant (meals K20 to K35, open breakfast,
lunch and dinner) is a great place to relax with
a good book.
Mendikwae Lodge (%732 3466; Ikani St; unit for up
to 4 people K220) These self-contained units have
two rooms – a double bed in one, two singles
in the other – a kitchen with utensils and TV.
Good choice for a group or family.
Bird of Paradise Hotel (%731 3100; thebird@coral
seahotels.com.pg; Elizabeth St; s & d K253-363, ste K462;
s) ‘The Bird’ is getting a bit tatty around
the edges but otherwise aging gracefully.
The rooms are large, comfortable and the
ones facing the garden are better than those
facing the street. Facilities include a poolside
bar, gym and squash court. In conjunction
with Budget, an accommodation and car-
hire package is available for K390 per night.
The terrace bar and restaurant (%731 1144,
meals K30 to K45, open 6.30am to mid-
night) is the place to rendezvous and central
to the social life of Goroka’s well-heeled.
The lunchtime salad buffet is particularly
good value.
Mandarin Restaurant (%732 2999; Elizabeth St;
meals K30-50; h11am-2pm & 5.30-9pm) Opposite
the Bird, the Mandarin serves good Chinese
food.
Also recommended should everything be
booked out during the Goroka show:
Goroka Lodge (%732 2411; McNicholl St; s K80-147,
d K107-173) This place hasn’t been redecorated since
independence. Meals available.
YWCA Guesthouse (%732 2867; Wisdom St; dm
K60) Women only. Shared facilities and a communal
kitchen.
Shopping
There are several supermarkets and stores
clustered between the post office and the Bird
of Paradise Hotel. Souvenir sellers camp out-
side the Bird, stringing up their bilums (string
bags), hats, spears, bows, masks, Buka-ware
and jewellery on the wrought-iron fences of
the provisional government building. Some
mild haggling is acceptable here.
The open-air market (hclosed Sun) is in-
teresting to walk through. It’s very busy on
Saturday, but colourful any day and you’ll
see piles of potatoes and exotic leafy greens as
well as more familiar tomatoes, capsicums and
avocados. Bilums and Highland hats are sold,
as are spools of intensely colourful twines and
strings used in bilum manufacture. Watch out
for pickpockets.
Getting There & Around
AIR
Between Airlines PNG pulling out of Goroka
in 2007 and the demise of Airlink, poor old
Goroka has been left at the whim of Air Niugini
(%732 1444). Unfortunately Air Niugini’s
whim is that all flights are routed via Port
Moresby (K507).
MAF (%732 1080; Edwards Rd) flies to Lae (K260),
Mt Hagen (K240), Tari (K540) and a host of
highland airstrips.
CAR & PMV
Goroka is well served by PMVs and the
Highland Hwy; it’s an easy trip to Mt Hagen
(K20, four hours) in the west or down to the
THE HIGHLANDS
coastal cities of Lae (K30, four hours) and
Madang (K30, four to five hours) in the east.
PMVs heading west gather at the market
area early in the morning, but more leave as
the day wears on.
Hire cars are available from Budget (%731
3100; Bird of Paradise Hotel, Elizabeth St) and Avis (%732
1084; Goroka airport), but you’ll pay between K175
and K230 per day for the car, K1 per kilometre
and K50 per day for insurance.
AROUND GOROKA
Asaro
Asaro village, northwest of Goroka, is famous
for its mud men – warriors who traditionally
covered themselves in grey mud and wore
huge mud masks before heading off on raids.
It’s a very striking image, and the Asaro men
re-create the scene for tourists. The number
of mud men is in direct proportion to the
 160 E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • K a i n a n t u lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S I M B U P R O V I N C E • • K u n d i a w a 161

number of kina-paying tourists. Mud-men
tours can be arranged by tour operators in
Goroka (p158).
Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park
This 80-hectare area is set in beautiful moun-
tain surrounds. Eleven kilometres from
Goroka and 1000m higher, the park (per adult
K2, plus vehicle K5) is reached by 4WD and includes
a botanical sanctuary, walking tracks and a
lookout at 2450m with incredible views.
A half-hour walk downhill brings you to
the PNG National Appropriate Technology Centre
(ATprojects; % 732-3278; atproj@online.net.pg; dm incl
meals K77). Part experiment in sustainable liv-
ing (check out the windmill, solar panels and
hydro energy sources) and part social initiative
(particularly those focused on community-
based rural development), the dormitory-type
accommodation can sleep 23 people in an en-
vironment that is safe and quiet. The ‘bush-
material’ shower uses hot water from the
wood-fired heater, one of the sustainable tech-
nologies being promoted. ATprojects provides
transport to and from Goroka and short-term
volunteer opportunities for people wishing to
participate in its rural development projects.
Crater Mountain Wildlife
Management Area
In the tri-border area, where the Eastern
Highlands, Simbu and Gulf provincial bor-
ders meet, is the Crater Mountain Wildlife
Management Area. This is one of the best
places in PNG to experience the spectacular
THE HIGHLANDS
the various villages, but it’s serious trekking.
There are three villages (Haia, Herowana and
Maimafu) with basic guesthouses (c/- Research &
Conservation Foundation, Goroka; %732 1320; www.rcf.org
.pg; per person K20) which provide beds (bring your
own linen) and kerosene stoves (bring your
own food). The Research & Conservation
Foundation Transit House in Goroka (p158)
can radio each village and help make your
flight arrangements with MAF (%732 1080) or
Pacific Helicopters (%732 1833). Flight costs vary
depending on routes and number of passen-
gers. Guides can be hired for K30 per day.
Daulo Pass
The road out to Mt Hagen is fairly flat through
Asaro, but it then hairpins its way up to 2450m
to the Daulo Pass. The pass is cold and damp,
but the views are spectacular.
KAINANTU
Kainantu, the major town between Lae
and Goroka, is strung along the highway at
1600m and is an important cattle- and coffee-
producing area. In late 2007, the Kainantu
Gold Mine was acquired by the world’s larg-
est gold producer, Barrick Gold Corp, who
also brought exploration licenses for the sur-
rounding 2900 sq km.
There’s a cultural centre (Highlands Hwy; h8am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) with a small
museum worth visiting. It sells traditional
pottery, hand-woven rugs, silk-screen prints
and flutes.
Kainantu Lodge (%737 1020; mobilekkb@global.net
KURU
Kuru was a disease unique to the Fore area southwest of Kainantu. Attacking the central nervous
system, the disease persisted in the body for a year before causing death. Dubbed ‘the laughing
disease’, its victims died with a peculiar smile on their faces. It only affected one language group
and was limited to women and children. It is known to have existed since the early 1900s, but
reached epidemic proportions in the 1950s when more than 200 cases were reported. Years of
epidemiological research by Goroka’s PNG Institute of Medical Research finally solved the riddle
of the disease’s cause.
Kuru was linked to diet and feasting behaviour; specifically it was caused by the ritualised
cannibalism of the brain tissue of dead clan members by women and children. Kuru is said to
be linked to mad cow disease.
Due to changed dietary and ritual behaviour, there’s only been a handful of cases in recent
years, the last reported in 1997.
and a crackling log fire at night. It’s peace- rain, it’s the second most heavily populated
ful and pleasant, and offers a free shuttle region in PNG. The people have turned
to/from Goroka airport (two hours). their steep country into a patchwork of gar-
PMVs from Lae to Kainantu cost K25 and dens spreading up every available hillside.
take three hours; from Kainantu to Goroka Population pressures are pushing them to
they cost K10 and take about two hours. even higher ground, threatening remain-
ing forests and bird of paradise habitats.
AROUND KAINANTU Most people in the province speak a similar
Ukarumpa language – Simbu dialects make up PNG’s
Ukarumpa is the PNG headquarters of the second-largest language group.
American-founded Summer Institute of Simbus are said to be avid capitalists who
Linguistics (see boxed text, opposite). It’s in watch their coffee profits, and strong believ-
the Aiyura Valley, about 30 minutes by PMV ers in payback – minor warfare is still com-
from Kainantu and is worth visiting to see mon around Simbu and there’s a pervading
‘little America’ in the midst of PNG. eye-for-an-eye ethos. Kundiawa has a painted
signboard at the police station that depicts a
Yonki & the Upper Ramu Project tribal battle.
Yonki, 23km from Kainantu, is the support
town for the Upper Ramu hydroelectric KUNDIAWA

countryside, wildlife and village culture.
The area encompasses 2700 sq km, rang-
ing from lowland tropical rainforests on the
Purari River to alpine grasses on the slopes
of Crater Mountain. You can hike between
.pg; s with shared facilities K100, s & d K140-240; is)
is on a hill overlooking town. A 20-minute
walk from the PMV stop, the lodge is sign-
posted and a very nice place to stay with a
bar, à la carte restaurant (meals K30 to K40),
project. Commissioned in 1979, the project
was financed by a K23 million World
Bank loan and powers Lae, Madang and
the Highlands.
THE HIGHLANDS
Kundiawa was the site of the Highlands first
government station, but has been left behind
by Goroka and Mt Hagen. Although it’s the
provincial capital, Kundiawa is pretty small.
There’s a bank, post office, limited shop-
ping, and that’s about it. Most people go

SPEAKING IN TONGUES: THE SUMMER INSTITUTE OF LINGUISTICS (SIL)

SIMBU PROVINCE
The Summer Institute of Linguistics (SIL) is a missionary organisation that aims to translate the West of Goroka, Simbu’s mountains are
Bible into every language in the world. Given the extraordinary number of languages in PNG – much more rugged and steep, and the val-
820 distinct languages at last count – SIL has a lot of work to do here. leys are smaller and less accessible. Some of
Whatever the motive, the fact is that SIL has made an incredible record of PNG languages, PNG’s highest mountains are in this region,
their distribution, numbers of speakers and the like. This is particularly important, as some lan- including Mt Wilhelm (4509m) the highest
guages are dying out. of them all. There are vast limestone caves
SIL’s translator-missionaries, who are usually husband-and-wife teams, typically spend 15 to near Kundiawa and Chuave.
20 years in a remote village, learning the language, developing a written alphabet and translat- Simbu (pronounced chim-bu, and some-
ing the Bible. The institute is working on 185 languages and has completed translations for 94. times spelt that way) derived its name when
SIL publishes Ethnologue (www.ethnologue.com) which is a comprehensive worldwide the first patrol officers gave steel axes and
languages standard. knives to the tribespeople, who replied
simbu – very pleased. Despite its rugged ter-
straight through to Mt Wilhelm, Goroka or
Mt Hagen.
There’s spectacular rafting on the Wahgi
River near Kundiawa, but no operators are
currently offering it, due, as usual, to land
disputes. The scenery is excellent – the river
goes through deep chasms, under rope bridges
and there are rapids and waterfalls.
Caves around Kundiawa were used as bur-
ial places. At the time of research, it wasn’t
clear whether a local guide could take you
there. Don’t visit the caves without consulting
local advice as it might be tambu (forbidden
or sacred; taboo). There are other large caves,
 162 S I M B U P R O V I N C E • • M t W i l h e l m
suitable for caving, close to Kundiawa, while
the Keu Caves are very close to the main road
near Chuave. The Nambaiyufa Amphitheatre,
near Chuave, has rock paintings.
Kundiawa Hotel (%735 1399; fax 735 1103; r K198)
doesn’t have much competition. It is a bit
run-down, although the tariff includes break-
fast and dinner, free laundry and airport
transfers.
Haus Kai Bilong ol Meri is the best place for
lunch – it has good food and a shady place to
sit. There is a small supermarket in Kundiawa
and travellers recommend the bakery behind
it for the cream buns.
Getting There & Away
AIR
The airport is quite spectacular, on a sloping
ridge surrounded by mountains. Air Niugini
(%735 1273) has flights to/from Port Moresby
(K420) on Tuesday and Saturday.
PMV
There are PMVs to Goroka (K10, about two
hours) and Mt Hagen (K10, about two hours).
The trip to Kegsugl (for Mt Wilhelm) takes
3½ hours and costs K30. PMVs for Kegsugl
leave from the Shell station, others stop on the
highway near the police station.
MT WILHELM
For many, climbing to the 4509m summit of
Mt Wilhelm is the highlight of a Highlands
trip. On a clear day, you can see both the
north and south coasts of PNG. Even if you
THE HIGHLANDS
don’t intend to tackle the summit, the region
around the base offers fantastic walking and
dramatic landscapes. European fruits and veg-
etables – including strawberries, cabbages,
cauliflower and broccoli – grow year-round
in the constant spring conditions.
Niglguma and Gembogl, both traditional
high-altitude villages, are worth visiting – you
can walk to Gembogl from Kegsugl in a couple
of hours and, on the way, you pass through
half-a-dozen villages, including Niglguma.
Climbing the Mountain
PLANNING
While not technically difficult, this popular
climb is hard work. Preparation is important
and the dangers should not be underestimated.
Climbers in this region have died. Don’t try to
climb the mountain on your own no matter
how fit you are – a guide is essential. The final
lonelyplanet.com
ascent starts in the black of early morning so
that climbers get to see the dawn and both
coasts before the clouds roll in.
If the weather is fine, the climb takes three
or four days, but frequently the weather causes
delays; take a book to read in the huts. The
dry season (April to October) is the best time
to climb and there are several ways to do it.
PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; png.gold@global
.net.pg; Goroka) and Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438;
www.pngtours.com; Kongin St, Mt Hagen) can organise
guides, porters, equipment and food. Or it is
just as easy to hire your own guide in Kegsugl
for K50 to K80. Porters are cheaper at K40
to K60.
If you’ve just come up from the coast, allow
yourself time to acclimatise to the altitude
before climbing to avoid altitude sickness
(see p324).
It can get very cold on the mountain (and
may even snow), and can easily become fog-
bound. Sunburn and hypothermia are haz-
ards. You need sufficient food, equipment,
warm clothing, water containers (there’s
no water past the lakes), a torch, gloves and
candles. Cooking gear might be useful – check
in Kegsugl whether there are still utensils at
the lake huts.
THE CLIMB
There is a K10 charge levied by the local
landowner to climb the mountain. The climb
goes up to the Pindaunde Lakes from the high
school and disused airstrip at Kegsugl. The
lakes sit at 3500m and the views are incredible.
The National Parks Board huts (see opposite)
are a four- to five-hour walk from Kegsugl. It
is customary to spend at least one night here
before tackling the summit the next morning.
Some say it’s better to spend another day ac-
climatising and exploring the area before the
final push.
From the Pindaunde Lakes, it’s a long, hard
walk to the summit – anything from five to
eight hours. It can get cold, wet, windy and
foggy at the top, so bring warm clothes and a
change of socks as your legs will be wet from
rain or just brushing past wet plants. Clouds
roll in after dawn so summit climbers start out
as early as 1am. The summit isn’t visible until
you are only 30 minutes from it and, if you are
to make it (most don’t), go slow!
The descent back to the huts takes about
four hours, but some people go all the way back
to Kegsugl, a further 3½ hours downhill.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Sleeping
East Kegsugl Guesthouse (per person K40) Across
the road from the airstrip and next to the
high school, this guesthouse is a great option.
The hosts, Josephine and Arnold (Rambo to
his friends) make guests feel welcome with
small touches such as strawberries from
their garden. There are three rooms with two
beds in each and enough blankets to keep an
Eskimo warm in a blizzard. Meals with home-
grown veggies are an extra K10. Guides can
also be arranged here – read the guest book
for recommendations.
National Parks Board Huts (Lake Lodge; K50)
Halfway up Mt Wilhelm from Kegsugl are
two fairly basic huts which are used to over-
night in. Bring your own sleeping bag (or bor-
row some blankets from the guesthouses in
Kegsugl) and food. There is no electricity, but
you can cook over the bottled-gas stove pro-
vided. Guides and porters stay free, although
some in Kegsugl will tell you otherwise.
Betty’s Place (%/fax 545 1567; betty_higgins_lodges@
yahoo.com; s with 2 meals K150) This lovely place,
about 1km from Kegsugl and near the start
of the trail, is situated on a ridge with su-
perb views out over the valley. Electricity is
provided by generator and it’s surprisingly
comfortable, with hot showers and amazing
surrounds. There’s a trout farm and commer-
cial vegetable gardens, and the meals at Betty’s
are splendid. Betty can also arrange guides and
porters for your summit assault. If you are in-
terested in walking to Madang ask about her
‘Ramu Sky to Sea’ four-day trek (K1500 in-
cluding guides and village accommodation).
Getting There & Away
Kegsugl is 57km northeast from Kundiawa
along a razorback road that has to be seen to
be believed. PMVs to Kegsugl (K30, 3½ hours)
leave Kundiawa from the Shell service station.
If you leave Goroka or Mt Hagen early in the
morning, you can reach Pindaunde Lakes or
at least Kegsugl in one day. There’s an airstrip
at Kegsugl, although it regularly falls into dis-
repair. It can only cater for smaller charter
aircraft such as the MAF fleet.
WALKING TO MADANG
You can walk to Madang from the Highlands,
but it’s unwise to go without a guide. The
turn-off for the Bundi road and the trek to
Brahmin (and Madang) is between Gembogl
and Kegsugl. You can walk right down to
W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E 163
Madang – but most people catch a PMV at
Brahmin. A relatively easy route goes through
Pandambai and Bundikara to Bundi, where
you’ll find bungalow accommodation at the
Mt Sinai Centre (p149). From Bundi the
route goes to the Brahmin Mission, from
where a PMV to Madang costs K10 and
takes 1½ hours. The whole route takes three
or four days.
The following can arrange a guide for
the walk:
Betty Higgins (Betty’s Place; %/fax 545 1567; betty_hig
gins_lodges@yahoo.com; Kegsugl)
PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; png.gold@global.net
.pg; Goroka)
Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438; www.pngtours.com;
Kongin St, Mt Hagen)
WESTERN HIGHLANDS
PROVINCE
The capital of the Western Highlands, Mt
Hagen stands at the frontier of a group of
wild and undeveloped regions further to its
west. The people throughout the province
are fiercely proud, with strong tribal loyal-
ties and complicated clan affiliations.
It wasn’t that many years ago that farm-
ers could be seen proudly strutting through
Hagen’s market in traditional clothing. The
men favoured wide belts of beaten bark with
a drape of strings in front and a rear covered
by a bunch of leaves attached to a belt (known
THE HIGHLANDS
collectively as a tanket or arse gras). Women
wore string skirts and hung cuscus fur ‘scarfs’
around their necks. Such attire is now re-
served for singsings and political rallies but
the proud swagger lives on. Singsings are still
an integral part of life and a great opportunity
to witness the Highlanders’ singular sense of
style – make every effort to see one.
The Wahgi Valley is one of the most pro-
ductive agricultural areas in the country and
forests only remain on the steepest slopes,
while the valleys and lower hills are grass-
land – bare from slash-and-burn cultivation.
Gardens and stands of casuarinas are scattered
through the hills and large coffee plantations
dominate the most fertile valley floors.
The provinces topography seesaws be-
tween the swamps in the lower Jimi Valley
(370m) and high peaks, including those of
Mt Hagen (3834m).
 164 W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n 165

MT HAGEN Maps
Despite its environs, Mt Hagen is not nearly The phone directory has an excellent Mt INTERVIEW WITH A RASKOL Dean Starnes
as attractive as Goroka. It’s PNG’s third big- Hagen map in its front pages. The Department I hadn’t notice Alex until he was right in front me which, in itself, was kind of weird. For unlike
gest city, and lies 445km from Lae and 115km of Lands & Surveys (Kuri St) can supply town maps most men in these parts, Alex was a tall, thin and wiry Rastafarian. I had arrived in a deserted
from Goroka. ‘Hagen’, as it’s often called, was and some regional maps. market at a village too small to be marked on most maps by mistake, and, having missed the
a patrol station before WWII, and has boomed last PMV, I was stranded.
in the last 30 years as Enga and the Southern Information ‘Yu olraet? Yo go we?’
Highlands have opened up. Now it’s an unruly EMERGENCY ‘Nowhere,’ I replied. ‘I’m staying here the night – with the mosquitoes and raskols,’ and I
city with major squatter settlements and many Ambulance (%542 1166) grinned my best ‘I’m-really-tough-even-though-I-look-shit-scared’ grin.
itinerant people. As in Lae and Port Moresby, Fire (%542 1311/5) He handed me a cigarette. ‘The mosquitoes are on their way, and the raskols, well…’ And
Hagen’s streets are packed with people. Police (%542 1222; Kumniga St) that was how I met Alex, former raskol, all-round trouble maker and charming host. I didn’t tell
The city’s ambience can vary from the usual him that I didn’t smoke.
PNG relaxed vibe to periods of heavy tension INTERNET ACCESS Back at his house he told me how he had become a raskol; how he and other young men had
during elections or interclan disputes. Major hotels have internet access for about drifted to Lae, on to Moresby and into crime. His story could have been that of any number of
Mt Hagen’s main blocks are built around K30 per 30 minutes. disenfranchised youths from any number of cities around the world. Without jobs and without
three parallel streets: Moka Pl, Hagen Dr and Computer Shop (%542 1354; ground fl, Komkui Bldg, prospects, the allure of the bright lights and the chance of something better – more money, a
Wahgi Pde. Kuri St; per 15min K4.50) Snappy connections. car or even just a little excitement – proved too strong. He said he knew that he should have
returned to his village and his land, that a better life waited for him there, but he hadn’t. Instead
0 600 m he spent his days drinking, smoking and sometimes robbing. He told me how his gang would
MT HAGEN 0 0.4 miles
watch a business for days, finding patterns in their comings and goings, working out schedules,
A B C D figuring out who had money. He told me of his beatings at the hands of the police, of how
INFORMATION Mt Hagen Missionary Home....14 C3 TRANSPORT they struck your knees with sticks to break your legs, and he showed me his scars caused by
ANZ Bank..................................1 B3 Souths Home Guesthouse........15 C3 Air Niugini...............................(see 8) cigarette burns.
Bank South Pacific......................2 B3 Budget...................................(see 10)
1 Computer Shop..........................3 B3 EATING Hertz.....................................(see 12) However, becoming a raskol isn’t necessarily for life. Alex saw it as a young man’s game,
Department of Lands & Surveys..4 B3 Hagen Club..............................16 C3 PMVs to Airport, Kundiawa &
Mt Hagen Hospital....................5 C3 Goroka................................ 18 C2
almost as a lifestyle option you grew out of and he, along with the friends he had joined with,
Police Station..............................6 B3 SHOPPING PMVs to Baiyer River................19 B2
12
left to start families of their own.
Post Office.................................7 B3 Market.....................................17 C2 PMVs to Wabag, Mendi & Tari..20 B4
Westpac.....................................8 B3
y
s Hw To Goldline Lodge;
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
High
land
Hagen Airport Motel;
MEDICAL SERVICES unstable and unpredictable. During the day,
Paiya Tours.............................(see 13) Catholic
Trans Niugini Tours................... 9 D4 Church
Kujup Nazarene Hospital
Juma Lodge; Airport (11km);
There are several pharmacies in town. Mt Hagen is perfectly safe. Nobody hassles
Showgrounds (12km);
Goroka (115km)
Kujup Nazarene Hospital (%546 2341, 546 2228; or asks for money, but the town is thronged
SLEEPING
Highlander Hotel.....................10 A4 Kujup) Located 45 minutes east on the Highlands Hwy, Dr with security guards and dogs around banks
Hotel Poroman.........................11 A3 Jim Radcliff comes recommended by the local missionaries. and shops. Don’t approach the dogs –
Pl

2 Kimininga Lodge......................12 D1
a

ὈὈὈὈ
Mt Hagen Hospital (%542 1166; Kumniga Rd) The
ok

Lutheran Guesthouse...............13 B2 they are not accustomed to white people.

M

No St haus sik (hospital) borders Pope Paul’s Park near the town Walking the streets and exploring the shops
rth 19 anda
THE HIGHLANDS

Kup

THE HIGHLANDS
Rd
centre. is quite safe.
13 17 It’s not, however, safe at night and the
Ku

Munga
Ku

Dr 18
m

St
m

MONEY market area is rife with cons and pick-

nig

en
e

g 16
Rd
a

Pd

4 Ha
ANZ (%542 1622; Hagen Dr) Has an ATM lobby and pockets. Although the Highlands is a ‘dry’
Rd

6
gi
ah

St
Ku

1
W

Kumniga Creek Pl cashes travellers cheques for a low K3. region, home-brew alcohol is increasingly

ὈὈὈὈ
da
ri

a n
ok
St

Ku 14
Pl ri Bank South Pacific (%542 1877; Romba St) Changes a problem.
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shortest queues. Travellers cheques cashed for K10. and the Hagen-based tour companies and
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Ker land disputes, pigs or gardens. Clan warfare expeditions.
never embroils outsiders, confining itself Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438; Kongin St; www
Rd St
Ragaba to the protagonists, but it can make things .pngtours.com) One of the main inbound tour companies
 166 W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n
in PNG, organising tours and activities across the country.
It’s well organised, professional and rather expensive.
Its packages include meals and activities and guests are
ferried to its six eco-lodges by private aircraft and stay
in absolute luxury. The lodges are Tari’s Ambua Lodge
(p174); the Sepik’s Karawari Lodge (p199) and its boat
the Sepik Spirit (p193); Malolo Plantation Lodge (p148)
north of Madang; Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (p208) in
the Western Province; and Mt Hagen’s very own Rondon
Ridge (opposite).
Festivals & Events
It’s not as big as the Goroka Show, but the Mt
Hagen Show (general admission K4, adult 2-day pass K300)
is definitely a must-see. It’s held annually,
on the third weekend of August. The cheap
‘general admission’ won’t allow you access to
the singsing groups until 11am, and then, only
from the surrounding banks.
The two-day pass allows you to arrive
early (around 8am) and see the groups
dressing and donning their feathered head-
dresses. Vigorous impromptu performances
at this time can often be more powerful,
even ribald, compared with the formal stuff
dished up in the arena. Contrary to what
you might be fearful of, there’s no general
bird of paradise slaughter just before show
time – the feather headdresses and cos-
tumes are extremely valuable and rarefied
heirlooms.
The performers are happy to pose for
photographs (they don’t charge) but at times
it feels like a photographic free-for-all. There
are some quality artefacts on sale outside
THE HIGHLANDS
the showgrounds and mild bartering here
won’t offend local sensibilities. Locals pre-
fer the live bands and contemporary music
on stage in a natural bowl just outside the
showgrounds – follow your ears and watch
your camera in the crowds.
Tickets can be brought from Trans
Niugini Tours (p165) and major hotels prior
to the show.
Sleeping & Eating
Mt Hagen has lots of places to stay suitable
for all budgets. Keep in mind that air-con is
not imperative in this cooler climate. Eating
options are largely confined to the hotels
and guesthouses.
New Town Lodge (%542 2872; Highlands Hwy; s K55-
75) Slightly out of town towards Mendi; about
1km past the Highlander Hotel. There are
large, self-contained rooms, shared kitchen
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
facilities (additional charge) and the pretty
grounds have pleasant views. There is a local
bus stop at the betel nut market nearby.
Lutheran Guesthouse (%542 2137; paiyatours@datec
.net.pg, Moka Pl; s/d/f K70/80/100) Right in the middle
of town, this is a good option. The rooms are
quite old but all are self-contained. There is a
laundry and the meals (breakfast K10, dinner
K25) include a soft drink. Paiya Tours (p165)
operate from here.
Mt Hagen Missionary Home (%542 1041; mhmh@
daltron.com.pg, Kumniga Rd; s incl breakfast K77) The pick
of the budget bunch. Each room has four bunk
beds and its own bathroom. It’s friendly, se-
cure, very clean and central. For an additional
K17 you’ll get a hearty dinner. Airport trans-
fers are K20 per group.
Hotel Poroman (%542 3558; www.hausporoman
.com.pg; Moka Pl; s K125-225, d K135-260, tr K182-286; i)
The price ranges here reflect the various room
options – budget, standard and deluxe. There
isn’t a hell of a lot of difference between the
budget and standard rooms other than the
number of TV channels. There’s a bar and
excellent restaurant (meals K20 to K40, open
7am to 9am, 11am to 2pm, and 5pm to 9pm),
and tariffs include airport transfers.
Kimininga Lodge (%542 2399; www.wampnga.com
.pg/kimininga; Highlands Hwy; s K170-210, d K200-240)
Run by the local government, Kimininga
Lodge is towards the airport and comfort-
able, if a little plain. In addition to the 37 self-
contained rooms there is an apartment
capable of sleeping four. Airport and town
transfers are included in the price. There’s a
licensed restaurant (meals K15 to K35, open
6pm to 10pm) that serves pizza and Indian,
and a Friday-night buffet.
Hagen Airport Motel (%545 1647; mmakap@online
.net.pg; Highlands Hwy; s & d K172) This motel, near the
airport, has 20 rooms all with en suite and TV.
It’s clean and friendly although nothing out
of the ordinary. The restaurant (meals K25 to
K40) and hotel are ‘alcohol-free zones’. You
can grab a lift on its truck, which travels into
town daily.
Highlander Hotel (%542 1355; highlanderhotel@coral
seahotels.com.pg; Okuk Hwy; s & d K253-462; ais)
The Highlander, part of the Coral Sea chain,
has all the amenities you’d expect from a first-
class hotel, including pool-side restaurants,
bars, tennis and volleyball courts and 24-hour
foreign-exchange desk. The 60 rooms are self-
contained and a little soulless. The Palmuri
Restaurant (meals K35 to K50, open 6pm to
lonelyplanet.com
9.20pm) offers delectable delicacies such as
Mt Wilhelm trout and triple-stacked pan-
cakes. An Asian style buffet (K40) is served
every Saturday.
Rondon Ridge (%542 1438; www.pngtours.com;
per person all-inclusive s/d US$499/402) Rondon
Ridge is the newest of Trans Niugini Tours’
luxury lodges, located at 2164m on Kum
Mountain, 13km southeast from Hagen.
There are magnificent views of the Hagen
Range and the Wahgi Valley from each of
the 12 units. Up here it’s comfort all the
way – modern bathrooms, electric blankets,
continental quilts and a cosy fireplace in the
common lounge.
Hagen Club (%542 1537; Kum Rd; mains K28-40;
h 11am-2pm & 5pm-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9.30pm
Sat) Serves cold beer and good pub-style
light meals during lunch, and cold beer and
European dishes during dinner. The Mt
Hagen Ball is held here to coincide with the
show. Bring your tux, dancing shoes and
see the manager for a ticket (double K250,
including dinner).
During the Mt Hagen Show, accommo-
dation can be scarce and the following ho-
tels may be your only option, however they
aren’t the best in town. Those with bars often
get unruly.
Goldline Lodge (%542 3333; fax 542 1883; Highlands
Hwy; s/d incl breakfast K110/185) On the way to the
airport. This hotel has a restaurant and bar with pokies.
The more expensive self-contained rooms are comfortable,
with TV and minibar.
Juma Lodge (%545 1310; fax 545 1368; Highlands
Hwy; s K55, d K77-110) Rooms here are large, tired and
hungover – much like the clientele.
Souths Home Guesthouse (%542 2338; Kumniga Rd;
s/d K60/80) Central and popular with drunks, the shared
showers are filthy and the mattresses thin and tired.
Shopping
The Hagen market is one of PNG’s biggest
and most varied (Saturday is the big day).
It’s the best place to buy bilums and Highland
hats. There’s also a vast range of fresh produce
on sale and if you’re lucky you may also see
cuscus, pigs and birds trussed up on poles or
in enclosures.
It’s busy each day and thieves work the
crowd. They’re mostly kids working in tan-
dem – one might distract you while another
snatches a bag or wallet. The atmosphere in
the market can be edgy, and the best way to
make friends is to buy stuff.
W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n 167
There are artefacts for sale at the Hotel
Poroman gift shop and outside the show-
grounds during the Mt Hagen Show.
Getting There & Around
AIR
The airport is at Kagamuga, about 10km
from town. Minibuses frequently run from
the small market next to the airport to the
main market in town (K1). For an additional
K1 the driver will often drop you at your hotel.
Major hotels provide transfers.
Air Niugini (%542 1039; Romba St) has flights
twice daily to Port Moresby (K498) while
Airlines PNG (%545 1407, 542 1039; hgu@apng.com;
airport) have flights that connect Mt Hagen to
Port Moresby (K498) and Lae (K300) every
day but Sunday. There are also Airlines PNG
flights on Monday and Saturday to Tabubil
(K640) and Kiunga (K624), and flights south
to Moro (K400), Kikori (K385), Kerema
(K541) and Daru (K1380).
MAF (%545 1477; herebe_udaga@MAF.org.au; airport)
offers interesting connections from Mt Hagen
to all sorts of remote destinations includ-
ing Tari (K300, Thursday), Wewak (K390,
Monday) and Simbai (K210, Friday).
CAR
There is one taxi in Mt Hagen – City Cab (%542
3013, 690 4431).
Avis (%545 1350; fax 545 1525; airport) Hires a double-
cab Hilux for K215 per day plus K1 per kilometre.
Budget (%542 1818; reservations@budget.com.pg;
Highlander Hotel)
THE HIGHLANDS
Hertz (trading as Eagle Hire; %542 3544) Based at the
Kimininga Lodge (opposite).
PMV
Roads heading west from Mt Hagen towards
Mendi and Wabag have been prone to am-
bushes in the past and it is worth seeking
advice from your place of accommodation
before jumping on a west-bound PMV to
Mendi (K15, 3½ hours) or Wabag (K15,
four hours). The asphalt disintegrates into
metal and then dirt, before it is resurrected
45 minutes before Mendi. It is possible to
reach Tari (K45, 11 hours) in one day if you
start early.
In the other direction there are buses to
Kundiawa (K10, two hours) and Goroka
(K20, four hours).
PMVs going east, to Kundiawa and
Goroka, leave from the market. PMVs going
 168 E N G A P R O V I N C E • • W a b a g
west, to Wabag, Mendi and Tari, leave from
the highway near the Dunlop building.
WAHGI VALLEY
Thirty thousand years ago, the Wahgi Valley
had some of the most advanced farming
practices, and social and political organisa-
tions on earth. Today, descendants of those
early farmers still rely on technologies de-
veloped by their forefathers. If you are in-
terested in why, despite their apparent head
start, the farmers of the Wahgi Valley don’t
rule the world read Jared Diamond’s criti-
cally acclaimed Guns, Germs and Steel that
untangles the thorny issues (none of them
race related) that enabled only some cul-
tures to produce mighty civilisations. There
are numerous references to these Highland
farmers throughout the book.
Wamol village is a great place to experience
an age-old way of life. Here you can see the
pig and cassowary huts, the sugar-cane gar-
dens and witness karim leg – a traditional
courtship song of the Wamol people. The
only place to stay is at the Wahgi Guesthouse
(%689 39543; per person K60; meals K15-20), 1½ hours
east from Mt Hagen; contact Lawrence
Walep. The guesthouse is built on a ridge
and is (all things considered) rather comfort-
able, although the toilets are of the pit vari-
ety and the shower is courtesy of a bucket.
From Hagen catch a PMV to Wahgi
Bridge Junction (K6, one hour) and change
to a Nondugul Station–bound PMV but get
off at Wamol (K5, 30 minutes). From here
THE HIGHLANDS
it is a 20-minute walk. Alternatively phone
the guesthouse for transport.
ENGA PROVINCE
Enga is the highest and most rugged
of all PNG’s provinces, and even other
Highlanders refer to Engans as ‘mountain
people’. The provincial capital of Wabag is
more of an outlying town to Mt Hagen than
a major centre. The two other main centres
are Wapenamanda and Laiagam.
Enga is unique in that it has only one
major linguistic and ethnic group, and the
shared ethnicity of the Enga speakers over-
shadows the province’s minority tribes such
as the Ipili speakers (around Porgera) and
Nete speakers.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Porgera, the giant gold and copper mine in
the far west, has brought about rapid change
for some, but most people still grow cash
crops – coffee, pyrethrum and cool-weather
European vegetables – in their steep mountain
gardens. Porgera is all but spent, but other
nearby mineral finds mean that the mining
town will be there a long while yet.
As late as 1960s, Enga was still largely in-
dependent of government control and tribal
warfare still occurs today (see boxed text,
p153). Engans are well respected for their
diplomacy and skill in the art of negotiation,
but the provincial government also has the
dubious distinction of having had its power
suspended three times by the national gov-
ernment due to concerns over corruption
and accountability.
Alcohol is prohibited in Enga and can’t
even be bought in hotels. Vehicles com-
ing from Mt Hagen are often stopped
and searched by police for alcohol and
firearms.
WABAG
People tend to sit around a lot in Wabag –
outside houses, by the road, wherever. Life
in general is slow in PNG but it is even
slower in Wabag. The stores have all the
main necessities, but the cost of transport
makes things a little expensive.
The town itself has little to attract tour-
ists, except a cultural centre and the mighty
Lai River barrelling through town, but the
hills around Wabag are stunning – jagged
mountains, gushing rivers and picturesque
villages nestled in the mountains.
At the large cultural centre (% 547 1128;
h8am-4pm theoretically), art gallery, museum
and workshop, you’ll see young artists mak-
ing sand paintings – the principal work on
display. The museum has shields, wigs and
masks from many parts of PNG, including
Enga Province.
The annual Enga Festival, a smaller version
of the Mt Hagen and Goroka Shows, is held
in August at the sports ground.
Wabag’s water and electricity supplies are
erratic.
Sleeping
Wabag Guesthouse (%547 1210; s/d K100/130) The
guesthouse has several single and double
rooms with shared facilities. The kitchen is
clean and well equipped.
lonelyplanet.com
Dae Won Wabag Hotel (%547 1140; fax 547 1033;
Highlands Hwy; s K124-180, d K124-240) Wabag’s only
formal hotel. It’s on the Mt Hagen side of
town and there’s a communal lounge area and
kitchen, as well as a restaurant.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Although the Wabag airstrip is closed, Air
Niugini (%547 1274) flies to Wapenamenda (an
hour’s drive away on the highway towards
Mt Hagen via PMV) from Port Moresby on
Tuesday and Thursday for K412.
PMV
PMVs travel between Mt Hagen and Wabag
(K20, four hours). The road to Porgera and the
mine is in good service, but PMVs rarely go
there. A few PMVs go to Mendi via Laiagam
and Kandep over a very rough road with fre-
quently washed-out bridges.
AROUND WABAG
Kaip Village
High in the hills behind Wabag is the spectac-
ular Kaip Village Lifestyle Model (%542 1303), with
villages and gardens on steep slopes that seem
suitable only for mountain goats. Villagers
offer singsing performances and cultural treks
around their village and gardens. The road
to Kaip is in bad shape but hardy PMVs still
travel here from Wabag.
Kaiap Orchid Lodge (%547 1281) was once a fan-
tastic place, positioned on a razorback ridge,
but is now very run down and often closed.
Laiagam & Rau
Laiagam has a botanic garden with a huge range
of orchids and a research centre. Lake Rau is a
crater lake at nearly 3000m in Enga Province’s
centre. It’s a day’s walk from Pumas, above
Laiagam, and you will need a guide, which
you can arrange in Mt Hagen.
Kumul Lodge
Located 40 minutes from Mt Hagen, and
closer to Hagen or Wapenamenda airstrip
than to Wabag, Kumul Lodge (%542 1615; www
.kumullodge.com.pg; s K140-165, d K145-185) is geared
towards bird-watchers, and you can see birds
of paradise in the grounds of the lodge. The
bungalows, built from bush materials, are
comfortable, self-contained and have large
windows and balconies overlooking the sur-
rounding forest. It’s at the base of Mt Hagen
S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E 169
and offers guided walks up the mountain
for birders, and to nearby caves. There are
transfers from Hagen (K65) or Wabag (K78).
The restaurant (meals K20 to K38, open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner) serves steak,
chicken and fish dishes.
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
PROVINCE
Southern Highlands Province is made up
of lush, high valleys between towering
limestone peaks. This region is particularly
beautiful and traditional cultures thrive,
especially in the Tari Basin where many
people retain their traditional ways and
whose men are famous for their intricately
decorated wigs (p173). The headwaters of
some mighty rivers, including the Kikori,
Erave and Strickland, cross the province
and Mt Giluwe (4368m), the second-highest
mountain in PNG, sits on the province’s
northeastern border.
The most remote province of the
Highlands, the Southern Highlands is still
relatively undeveloped, although the estab-
lishment of oilfields near Lake Kutubu and
an alluvial gold mine at Mt Kare are rapidly
opening up the region.
In pre-European times the province was
at the end of the trade route from the Gulf
of Papua into the Highlands.
The Mendi area is the most developed re-
THE HIGHLANDS
gion of the Southern Highlands (although
Tari has more attractions and services
for travellers), but it was not explored by
Europeans until 1935. It was 1950 when
the first airstrip was constructed and 1952
before tribal warfare was prohibited. The
Mendi tribes then focused their attention
on attacking government patrols and were
still fighting them in the mid-1950s. The
‘discovery’ of the beautiful Lavani Valley
in 1954 triggered newspaper journalists to
write elaborate stories about the discovery
of a lost Shangri-la.
The limestone hills and high rainfall
are ideal for the formation of caves. Some
caves of enormous depth and length have
already been explored and it is a distinct
possibility that some of the deepest caves
in the world are still awaiting discovery in
this region.
 170 S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M e n d i lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • I a l i b u 171

weapons. Mendi dolls make a good buy, al- their own, but the staff and local guests are
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS CULTURE though they are now rarely in the traditional genuinely friendly.
The Huli are one of the biggest clans and their homelands are among PNG’s most remote and designs, which had religious significance. UCWF Guesthouse (%549 1062; s/tw K40/80) The
undeveloped regions. Most Huli have had little more than a single generation of contact with United Church Women’s Fellowship has a
the outside world. Though not typical of all Highlanders, the Huli make an interesting case study Information guesthouse 30 minutes’ walk from town. The
(for more information, see p173). Mendi’s police station (%549 1333) and post of- twin room has an attached bathroom. To get
fice (%549 1016) are in the middle of town. there, walk out onto the old Mt Hagen road
Black Brides The Mendi Hospital (%549 1166) and Bank South past Mendi Motors, take the left fork after the
Mendi brides wear black for their wedding – they’re rubbed down in black tigaso tree oil and Pacific have both recently re-opened due to bridge, pass the turn-off to the large Menduli
soot, and they wear this body colouring for a month after the wedding. The tigaso tree oil is the town’s relative tranquillity. There are a Trade Store and it’s further up the hill on your
very valuable. It comes from Lake Kutubu and is traded all over the area. During this time neither number of good kai bars and stores in town, right, near the hospital.
bride nor groom work, nor is the marriage consummated. This gives the bride time to become although no large supermarkets. Kiburu Lodge (%549 1077; fax 549 1350; r K110-220)
acquainted with her husband’s family and for the groom to learn ‘anti-woman’ spells to protect Kiburu, the pick of the Mendi bunch, is a few
himself from his wife. Sleeping & Eating kilometres south of town on the Highlands
Throughout the Highlands, women are traditionally distrusted by men, who go to extraordinary The most visible place to stay is the large, sky- Hwy, just beyond the turn-off into Mendi.
lengths to protect themselves and maintain their status. Sexual relations are not undertaken blue hotel, and in previous reincarnations this It has six chalets with 12 rooms in a quasi-
lightly – contact with women is believed to cause sickness and men usually live in separate was the place to stay in Mendi. Unfortunately traditional style set in pleasant grounds sur-
houses and prefer to cook their own food. Boys can be removed from their mothers’ houses at it now attracts an unsavoury crowd who like rounding a large, hand-dug, waterlily-filled
a very young age. Women travellers should bear these customs in mind because in many places to drink, fight and piss in the hallways (al- pond. The staff can contact Frank Pape who
they are still strictly upheld. though not necessarily in that order) and we guides trips to see local avian fauna and the
recommend you try elsewhere. nearby caves. The octagonal restaurant (set
Blue Widows Pentecostal Guesthouse (%549 1651, 692 6778; s meals K20 to K35, snacks K7.50; open 6.30am
A dead man’s wife, daughters, mother, sisters and sisters-in-law coat themselves with bluish-grey K20) There are five twin rooms and a five-bed to 9.30am, 11.30am to 1.30pm, and 6.30pm to
clay while in mourning. The wife carries vast numbers of strings of the seeds known as ‘Job’s tears’. bunk room in the Pentecostal Guesthouse, 9.30pm) encompasses a pot-bellied stove.
One string a day is removed until eventually, with the removal of the last string, the widow can not far from the airport. The rooms are small
wash herself of her clay coating and remarry – about nine months after her husband’s death. but clean and there are cooking facilities and Getting There & Away
solar-heated hot showers. AIR
Long Houses Kubula Guesthouse (% 549 1114; s/d K40/80, The Mendi airstrip is often unserviceable,
Long houses, known as haus lains, are built along the sides of Mendi ceremonial grounds and kitchen use K5) Opposite the post office and up mostly in the mornings, because of fog. Air
used as guesthouses at singsings and pig kills. They can be up to 150m long, although 70m is the stairs behind a small trade store, this Niugini (%549 1233) has three flights a week
the usual length, and they are built beside stone-filled pits where the pigs are cooked. place is rather dirty. The bed sheets are to/from Port Moresby (K630).
close to getting up and walking around on South West Air (%549 1065; gregbill@online.net.pg)
is principally a charter-only company but it
Dangers & Annoyances Tari is much quieter and the resorts there does have occasional spare seats on its Port
Historically the Southern Highlands were are secure and safe. MOGAS Moresby flights.
THE HIGHLANDS

beset with lawlessness and tribal fighting.
Mendi’s hospital closed, the banks pulled
out and it was easy to fall prey to the sensa-
tionalist stories that the international media
love so much.
These days many of the clans have sorted
out their differences and the region is enjoy-
ing relative security. Nonetheless, because the
area is unpredictable and potentially danger-
ous it would be foolhardy to rely solely on any
advice given here; instead we recommend that
you ask the locals about the current status quo
and be prepared to curtail your travel plans if
the situation warrants it.
The road between Nipa and Tari is par-
ticularly volatile as the Nipa villagers are
still nursing a grudge and vowed vengeance
for the fatal car crash that killed their 2002
election-winning politician. Witchcraft
was suspected.
MENDI
Despite being the provincial capital, Mendi
is a relatively small town, built around an
airport. It shelters in a long green valley, sur-
rounded by beautiful limestone peaks. There
is not much to keep you hanging around in
Mendi – it’s really just the starting point for a
trip into the Tari Basin or Lake Kutubu.
Mendi isn’t as volatile as it was a few years
back and recently, even during the 2007
elections, it has been relatively well behaved.
Nonetheless the general vibe is that it’s only
a few stiff drinks away from sliding back to
its warring ways. If a war is on, it will most
likely be fought near town (at the fields at the
end of the runway) and be confined to the
aggrieved parties.
There’s an artefacts shop near Mendi Motors
that sells hand-loomed products, baskets and
The most vivid demonstrations of wealth
and status are the moga ceremonies near
Mendi (tee ceremonies in Enga Province).
Mogas are movable feasts – during some,
hundreds of pigs are slaughtered and
cooked. Each clan attempts to surpass its
neighbours by feasting on as many pigs
as possible. A big pig is worth K500 to
K1000.
These ceremonies flow from village to
village, with one group displaying its wealth
and handing the moga ceremony on to the
next village. Even enemies are invited.
There are ceremonial grounds where these
feasts are held along the road past Mendi –
fenced quadrangles, sometimes covering
half a hectare, surrounded by long houses
(guest quarters) and long pits in straight
lines filled with cooking stones.
THE HIGHLANDS
PMV
PMV trucks and buses run back and forth be-
tween Mt Hagen and Mendi (K15, 3½ hours)
with reasonable regularity. The buses are more
comfortable than the trucks. The road to Tari
goes via Nipa and is a spectacular six- to eight-
hour drive (K25). There’s a road to Pimaga
and on to Moro.
When the Southern Highlands Gulf
Highway opens in 2008, it is reasonable to
expect that PMVs will connect Mendi with
Kikori.
IALIBU
Halfway between Mendi and Mt Hagen,
Ialibu is the home of the Imbong’gu peo-
ple who, like the Huli, also wear wigs. It
is a major area for the production of sawn
timber, and basket-making is a common
 172 S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • L a k e K u t u b u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • Ta r i 173

village industry. Nearby is Mt Ialibu (3465m).
The local people have built a cultural centre
and museum made of river stones and local
timber, with exposed posts and beams, and
woven walls. There are good walking trails
nearby and the Catholic Mission station runs
a guesthouse.
LAKE KUTUBU
The Lake Kutubu area has one of just five
national parks in PNG. According to legend,
the lake was formed when a fig tree was cut
down by a woman looking for water. The story
goes that whatever the tree touched turned to
water – hence the lake.
The lake is beautiful, and the surrounding
country is home to friendly people living a
largely traditional life. Butterflies and birds of
paradise are common. You can swim in the
lake – women should wear a laplap (sarong) –
and visit local villages where people still live
in sex-segregated buildings.
It is also possible to visit the skull caves of
Bebere and Kosame, where traditional burial
rites are still observed. Custom dictates that
the bodies of dead relatives are placed into the
hull of a canoe and interred in a cave until the
flesh has rotted from the bones. The skeletons
are then removed, cleaned and displayed on
the walls of the caves.
Kutubu is the Highlands’ second-largest
lake, and, at 800m above sea level, PNG’s
highest substantial body of water (although
the Mt Wilhelm crater lakes are higher). It
has a remarkable level of fish endemicity – 10
THE HIGHLANDS
in Inu, this is your only option. It also helps
with boats across to Tubo.
Tubo Eco-Tourism Lodge (%327 3286; s K60) Tubo
is based on a peninsula – access is by canoe
and a 300-step climb. It’s community owned
and run, built from bush materials and affords
commanding views across the magnificent
lake. The grounds have butterflies, orchids
and birds of paradise. The remoteness of the
area adds to the experience but makes it dif-
ficult, if not impossible, to contact.
Getting There & Away
In addition to the occasional MAF flight,
Airlines PNG flies into Moro three times a
week (K400) from Mt Hagen. Otherwise catch
a Moro-bound PMV from Mendi and get
dropped off at Tubaka village as Moro itself
is an hour’s walk from the west end of Lake
Kutubu. Ask locals to direct you to Inu High
School and ask around here for a boat to the
lodge. It is also possible to catch boats to the
lodge from the village below Tugiri crossing.
If you plan to walk into the Lake Kutubu
region, take a guide such as those provided by
Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438; Mt Hagen) or Steven
Wari (%691 2063; Tari).
KANTOBO
Kantobo village is on the banks of the Mubi
River, near the eastern end of Lake Kutubu.
It is home to the Muti clan of the Foimeana
people. This is virgin rainforest, rich in bird
and animal life. A 700-hectare wildlife man-
agement area has been created around the
A GREAT HAIR DAY
The Huli are the largest ethnic group in the Southern Highlands, with a population of around
55,000 and territory exceeding 2500 sq km. Huli don’t live in villages, but in scattered homesteads
dispersed through immaculately and intensively cultivated valleys. The gardens are delineated
by trenches and mud walls up to 3m high, broken by brightly painted gateways made of stakes.
These trenches mark boundaries, control the movement of pigs and also hide troops of warriors
in times of war. As usual, the women do most of the work, while men concentrate on displaying
their finery, plotting war and growing their hair.
Traditional Huli culture is highly developed and strikingly executed in dress and personal
decoration. Huli men wear decorative woven wigs of human hair. The hair is the wigman’s own,
grown over many months by unmarried men living together in isolation from the rest of their
community. Under the tutelage and guidance of a master wigman, spells are cast, diets are
proscribed and rituals adhered to – all to ensure a healthy head of hair. Many Huli wigmen have
more than one wig, but all wigs must be grown before the man marries. Designs are indicative
of a wigman’s tribe. The Huli cultivate yellow, everlasting daisies that are used to decorate their
wigs; they also use feathers and cuscus fur for decoration.
The Huli men wear a band of snakeskin across the forehead, and usually a cassowary quill
through the nasal septa. Their faces are decorated with yellow and red ochre. Kina shells are worn
around the neck, a decorative belt and bilum cloth cover the privates, and the is rear covered by
a bunch of leaves attached to a belt (known collectively as a tanket or arse gras).
to six days. The down side is that you’ll have display are for sale. The place is a sort of old
to charter a MAF flight to get there. men’s home and a couple of older fellows
show you around and accept your donation.
TARI The covered structure in the compound is
Tari is one of the few towns in PNG where the grave of a former provincial premier, and
some people still wear traditional dress, and you’ll see similar (but usually smaller) struc-
the Huli wigmen (above) and their distinc- tures all around the Tari area.
tive clothing are a must see. Most of the wig The Tari Basin and the Tari Gap are world
schools are some distance from the town it- renowned birding spots, and because the al-
self and difficult to find, so you will need to titude ranges from 1700m to 2800m through
organise transport with your guesthouse or a variety of habitats there is a high diversity
join a tour. Often some of the bachelor boys of species. Tari is a particularly blessed with

of the 14 species of fish are found only in
this lake.
The big oil project near Lake Kutubu has
changed the Mendi area, and local people
are used to dealing with oil workers with fat
wallets and expense accounts. Prices asked
to cross a bridge or walk across land can
be outrageous.
Oil began flowing through the pipeline
down to the Gulf of Papua in 1992. Chevron
Niugini has a good reputation, fulfilling its
agreements with the local landowners, the
Foi and Fasu people. There’s a road from
Mendi to Pimaga and on to Moro and the
company headquarters near the northwest
end of Lake Kutubu.
Sleeping
Inu Sawmill Guesthouse (contact Bai Waiba, Bais Camp,
Inu Sawmill; s K15) If you are forced to overnight
nearby Wasi Falls with the help of the WWF.
Wasi Falls is the local name for a series of
waterfalls that includes the Bisi Falls, the larg-
est in PNG, which plummet over 100m into a
limestone basin. Also in the management area
are the Maskimu Falls and Geagosusu Falls.
There are many caves in this area, including
some that were used for ancient burials, and
some with a unique blind cave-fish species.
MT BOSAVI
This area has only recently been visited by
a few intrepid travellers. You need to take a
guide, and be prepared to sleep in long houses
(both men and women) with up to 60 other
people, eating sago, insects and other rain-
forest food. Steven Wari from Warili Lodge
(p174) has contacts in this area and can or-
ganise a guide, and advises us that it would be
possible to walk to a number of villages in four
supplement their income by travelling to town
to demonstrate how they grow and care for
their hair.
Before photographing anyone, traditionally
dressed or not, ask permission. Locals are
usually happy to be snapped and do not ask
for payment (although this doesn’t apply to
the wigmen). Still, make your thanks known
and if you offer to send copies of the pictures,
do. The main market day is Saturday and this
is a particularly good time to meet locals in
their finery.
The town itself is little more than an airfield
and a handful of buildings. There is a post of-
fice, police station (%540 8022), a few large but
basic stores and a hospital.
Sights & Activities
There’s a tiny museum in a stockaded com-
pound and most of the items in the small
THE HIGHLANDS
birds of paradise including the King of Saxony
and the Blue bird of paradise. Sir David
Attenborough visited the area when making
his documentary Attenborough in Paradise
(1996) and really put the place on the maps
of twitchers.
The best of the birds can be seen between
July and October when their plumage is at
its zenith.
Tours
Ambua Lodge (p174) and Warili Lodge
(p174) run tours into the surrounding coun-
tryside, although Ambua Lodge does not
really cater to casual drop-ins.
Birding tours take in the Tari Gap from
the road and a few trails in the rainforest.
Depending on which trees you visit, local
landowners will expect K20 to K30 compen-
sation per site. Guides cost between K30 and

174 S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • K o p i a g o t o O k s a p m i n
K80, and vehicle hire can be anything from
K350 to K500 per day.
Cultural tours are far more varied and de-
pend largely on your budget and what you
want to see. Besides visiting the wigmen, tours
may include visits to the widow village, sing-
sings, spirit and sun dances, and initiation and
courtship ceremony re-enactments. Warili
Lodge charges K100 for one to three people
plus car hire. A mumu (feast cooked in under-
ground pit) costs K300 and includes the pig.
Sleeping & Eating
Despite the small size of the town, the Tari
area boasts some excellent accommodation.
Tari Women’s Guesthouse (contact Jacinta Haiyape,
PO Box 81, Tari; dm K20) Near the airport, this lo-
cally run guesthouse offers spartan rooms,
each with four bunk beds. Men are welcome
and while meals aren’t provided, there are
shared cooking facilities. The manager can
also give you directions to other women’s
guesthouses in the area, including ones at
Hoiyabia, Paikela and Tigibi.
Parakua Adventure Lodge (%686 7891; s/d K30/50)
This guesthouse is a 30-minute walk uphill
from the police station, and is owned by the
manager of the small, green store you pass on
the way up. Each room has a couple of beds
and little else. Bring all your own food.
Warili Lodge (%691 2063; www.papua-warili-lodge
.com; PO Box 159, Tari; per person K60) This lodge is
an excellent place to stay, with comfortable
rooms made from bush materials. The three-
course dinners (K25) are delicious, and served
THE HIGHLANDS
in a large, thatched room with an atmospheric
open fire. The lodge is a 45-minute drive from
the town and owner Steven usually collects his
guests if he knows they are coming. If arriv-
ing by PMV, jump out when you see his sign.
Tours are also offered.
Ambua Lodge (%542 1438; www.pngtours.com; per
person all-inclusive s/tw US$499/402) The showpiece
of the Trans Niugini Tours operation, the
lodge offers commanding views across the
Tari Basin and Huli homelands. In 2001 it
was listed as one of the 10 best eco-tourism
facilities worldwide by National Geographic
Adventure magazine. At 2100m, the lodge
enjoys a refreshing mountain climate and
attracts many bird-watchers and orchid en-
thusiasts. Guests are accommodated in indi-
vidual, luxury, bush-material huts. The huts
© Lonely Planet Publications
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels www.lonelyplanet.com 175
have a great 180-degree view and are sur-
rounded by flower gardens with a backdrop of
mossy forest. Grand opulence in such rugged
circumstances is certainly impressive. Ambua
is beyond the means of many travellers and
most guests come as part of a Trans Niugini
package on its private plane.
Other guesthouses in the area include
Lakwanda Lodge, an hour past Tari and acces-
sible by PMV and Karida Guesthouse, a five-
hour walk from the Tokia bridge junction.
Since clan warfare subsided in 2006, these
areas surrounding Tari are now safe to visit
although it would be prudent to check first.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Air Niugini (%540 8023) flies from Port Moresby
to Tari on Monday, Friday and Sunday. MAF
(%540 8014) has Thursday flights to Tabubil
(K440), Kiunga (KK410), Telefomin (K350)
and Mt Hagen (K300). If telephone lines © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
are down in Tari, book through its Mt
Hagen office.
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
PMV everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
PMVs leave Tari from the market early each
morning (excluding Sunday) and pass Warili
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
Lodge on their way to Mt Hagen (K45, 11
hours) via Mendi (K25, six hours). PMVs also
run from Tari to Koroba for around K10.
KOPIAGO TO OKSAPMIN
From Lake Kopiago, you can walk to
Oksapmin in West Sepik Province in four
THE HIGHLANDS
or five days. There’s no official guesthouse
at Kopiago but it would be worth asking
at the Catholic Church, 1km from the air-
strip. A further 3km on from the Kopiago
station is the Apostolic Church run by
Pastor Hagini who may also be able to help
with accommodation.
Talk to MAF (%545 1477) in Mt Hagen for
possible flights, or catch a PMV from Tari
to Koroba (K10) from where it’s only a
day’s walk.
Kopiago to Oksapmin is a hard and po-
tentially dangerous walk, so don’t under-
take it unless you are pretty fit and you’ve
hired a guide. If you are really keen, you can
continue walking to Tekin, Bak, Bimin and
down to Olsobip in Western Province, or
to Telefomin.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
175

The Sepik
The mighty Sepik is one of the great rivers of the world, in serpentine fashion it flows for
1126km through a largely undisturbed environment of swamplands, tropical rainforests
and mountains. However, the Sepik is more than just a river – it’s also a densely populated
repository of complex cultures, dying languages and the most potent art in the Pacific.

As you motor around one of the endless river bends, the scale of the river, the towering
façades of the haus tambarans (spirit houses), the splash of a crocodile as it slithers into the
water, the bird life, the eerie lagoons and the beautiful stilt villages make it all too easy to
believe that you’ve travelled clean out of the 21st century and straight into an adventure.

Despite the erosion of some cultural values and the trappings of Western influence, life
continues in much the same way as it has for centuries. Local populations are clustered
into different language groups and clans. There are still virtually no roads in the region and
the river still carries all the traffic – from naked children poling dugout canoes to sunburnt
tourists in their luxurious yachts.

The Sepik region also takes in the sleepy provincial capitals of Wewak and Vanimo, two
beachside towns that boast vast stretches of white sand, excellent diving and seasonal surf.
Untouched coastal islands such as that of Muschu off the coast of Wewak are only now
seeing a trickle of tourists.

This chapter first looks at the two provinces through which the river flows and later, the
river itself, its tributaries and the riverside towns and villages.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Watching the legendary Sepik River (p191)

unfurl from the bow of a giant canoe
„ Immersing yourself in the lifestyle and Vanimo

culture of a Chambri Lakes (p198) village

„ Buying a carving from a master carver in Muschu Island
Tambanum (p196) or examining the Wewak

architecture of haus tambarans (spirit

houses) at Palambei (p195)
Palambei
„ Swimming and surfing off the white-sand
Chambri Tambanum
beaches of Vanimo (p186) and Wewak Sepik

THE SEPIK
River Lakes
(p181)
„ Barbecuing your freshly caught fish on the
deserted and idyllic Muschu Island (p184)

„ POPULATION: 530,000 „ AREA: 79,100 SQ KM

 176 T H E S E P I K • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K • • C u l t u re 177

History operation which in turn drove 12,000 West

The Sepik’s first contact with the outside
world was probably with Malay bird-of-
paradise hunters – the feathers from these
beautiful birds were popular in Asia long
before fashionable European millinery in-
corporated them into late-19th-century
women’s headwear.
The first European contact came in 1885,
with the arrival of the German New Guinea
Company. Dr Otto Finsch named the river
the Kaiserin Augusta, after the wife of the
German emperor. Dr Finsch, after whom the
Germans’ first station – Finschhafen – was
named, rowed about 50km upstream from
the mouth.
The Germans established a station at
Aitape on the coast in 1906, and in 1912 and
1913 sent a huge scientific expedition to ex-
plore the river and its vast, low-lying basin.
They collected insects, studied local tribes and
produced maps of such accuracy that they’re
still referred to today. Angoram, the major
station in the lower Sepik, was established
at this time.
The early 1930s saw gold rushes in the
hills behind Wewak and around Maprik, but
development and exploration ceased when
WWII started.
The Japanese held the Sepik region for
most of the war. Australian forces pushed
along the coast from Lae and Madang, and
the Japanese withdrew to the west. In early
1944 the Americans seized Aitape and the
Australians moved west from there. When
a huge American force captured Hollandia
(now Jayapura in West Papua) in April, the
Japanese in Wewak were completely isolated.
A year later, in May 1945, Wewak fell and
the remaining Japanese withdrew into the
hills. Finally, with the war in its last days,
General Adachi surrendered near Yangoru.
The formal surrender took place a few days
later on 13 September 1945 at Wom Point
near Wewak. Of 100,000 Japanese troops,
only 13,000 survived.
The region has been volatile since the
Indonesian takeover of Dutch New Guinea
(now Papua). The border was jointly mapped
THE SEPIK
Papuans into PNG. Some of these refugees
were settled permanently in PNG in camps
close to the border at Blackwater, near
Vanimo, and Green River, near the Sepik
River. Since then, following brutal Indonesian
crackdowns on West Papuan separatist activ-
ity, even more West Papuans have fled over
the border to PNG.
In March 2001 PNG police beat some asy-
lum seekers at the Blackwater camp in an
attempt to coerce them and others back across
the border. The PNG government has been
fickle about recognising the West Papuans
as refugees and negotiated the repatriation
of some with Indonesia in early 2002. In
late 2004 about 400 border crossers, mostly
women and children who had fled West
Papua in 2000, were finally granted refugee
status within PNG after sustained pressure on
the government from the Catholic church and
the UNHCR. The refugees were transferred to
East Arwin camp in Western Province. The
situation remains unstable.
Geography & Climate
The Sepik River is 1126km long and is navig-
able for almost its entire length. It starts up in
the central mountains, close to the source of
PNG’s other major river, the Fly, which flows
south. The Sepik flows in a loop, first west
across the West Papua border, then north,
before returning east across the border. It then
runs through two PNG provinces – Sandaun
(West Sepik) and East Sepik.
At its exit from West Papua, the Sepik is
only 85m above sea level and from there it
winds gradually down to the sea – a huge,
brown, coiling serpent. It has often changed
its course, leaving dead-ends, lagoons, oxbow
lakes or huge swampy expanses that turn into
lakes or dry up to become grasslands in the
dry season.
As an indication of its age and changing
course, there are no stones or rocks within
50km of the river’s banks. Villages have
‘sacred stones’ that have been carried in
from far away and placed in front of village
haus tambarans.
STRANGERS TO THE SEPIK
When the Brazilian water weed Salvinia molesta was introduced to the Sepik, it went wild. In the
early 1980s it covered 60% of the Lower and Middle Sepik’s lakes; with the ability to double in
size every two days it formed a mat too thick for canoes to penetrate and ecological disaster
threatened.
A weevil was introduced; the adult feeds on Salvinia buds and the larvae burrow through the
plant which dies, becomes water-logged and sinks. Wide distribution of the weevil began in 1983.
The results were dramatic and within months the spread of the weed had been reversed.
Another major environmental problem on the Sepik is the water hyacinth. Although attractive,
this is one of the world’s worst aquatic weeds and a new battle rages. Since 1993 three hyacinth-
killing insects have been investigated and more than 450,000 water hyacinth weevils released at
various locations in PNG. Here too, dramatic results have been achieved. Many of the lagoons
that were dying under the strangling blanket of weed are now less than 30% covered; fish are
returning and people are once again able to travel the waterways unimpeded.
The latest introduction is also an Amazonian import – the red-bellied pacu, a relative of the
flesh-eating piranha. Introduced as a food source for the villagers it soon seemed that things
had gone horribly wrong and stories of men being eaten by schools of vicious fish seeped from
the Sepik. Panic grew and an investigation was launched. Had the vegetarian pacu suddenly
become carnivorous? Apparently not and the waters are once again safe to swim in (but of
course for the crocodiles).
For much of its length, the Sepik is bor- Culture
dered by huge expanses of swamp or pitpit The Sepik region is the best-known part of
(wild sugar cane). There are hills further in- PNG outside the country, and Sepik artefacts
land and eventually the Sepik climbs into wild (carvings and pottery) are displayed in many
mountain country near its source. Between of the world’s great museums. Traditional art
the river and the coastal plain, the Bewani was linked to spiritual beliefs. Sepik carvings
and Torricelli mountains rise to over 1000m. were often an attempt to make a spirit vis-
There are no natural harbours on the Sepik ible, although decorations were also applied
region’s 450km of coastline. to everyday items (ie pots and paddles).
June to October is the driest time in most Carving is rarely traditional – it’s now
of the Sepik, but microclimates vary signifi- more a mixture of long-established motifs,
cantly. Average annual rainfalls lie between imagination and commercial tastes. Some
2000mm around Wewak and Maprik, and a villages still retain their own signature styles –
stunning 5200mm at Amboin. You can expect Kambot makes the famous storyboards. Even
drenching rain at any time on the river, but these are not traditional – storyboards were
the wet season is from December to April. originally painted on large pieces of bark,
Most rain falls in January and February and now they’re carved in relief from tim-
and the river level starts to drop after April. ber. Sepik storyboards are one of the very few
Temperatures and humidity can be high, but narrative art forms in the whole Pacific. These
it’s usually pleasant on the river, where you days a generic ‘Sepik style’ is emerging.
catch the breeze. Carving is a vital part of the river’s econ-
Early in the dry season is the best time omy. In some villages, carving is the only sig-
to visit – the mosquitoes are less numerous nificant source of cash. Coffee is grown in the
and there’s plenty of water in the river sys- Maprik region, but on the river there are no
tem. By August the level drops significantly cash crops, no paid employment and rarely
emptying some tributaries and barets (arti- any agricultural surplus.

and marked in 1968. On several occasions
large numbers of Papuan refugees have fled
into PNG. In 1984 more than 100 Indonesian
soldiers deserted to the OPM (Organisasi
Papua Merdeka, or Free West Papua
Movement), sparking a major Indonesian
The inexorable force of the river tears
great chunks of mud and vegetation out of
the riverbanks and these drift downstream
as floating islands. There is no delta and the
river stains the sea brown for 50km or more
from the shore.
ficial channels cut as shortcuts across loops
in the river), and this makes travel times
much longer.
In the dry season the Chambri Lakes can
get very smelly – they shrink, fish die and
weed rots.
THE SEPIK
Sepik people invest great spiritual power
in crocodiles. People around Korogo vil-
lage in the Middle Sepik perform an ini-
tiation rite where young men are cut with
hundreds of incisions on the back, chest and
buttocks (p197).
 178 E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • W e w a k 179

Dangers & Annoyances most-visited and heavily populated sections WEWAK Orientation
Sepik Natnat (Tok Pisin for mosquito) of the Sepik, as well as several large tributaries. As Wewak was once the site of the largest The headland overlooking Wewak is a largely
aren’t particularly big but can be numerous It was here, in 1945 that the Japanese finally Japanese airbase in mainland New Guinea, residential area with some nice houses. The
and vicious. They’re not a problem while surrendered to the allies and various vehicles it was subject to a barrage of bombs during main commercial area is at the bottom of
on the river, but on the banks they can de- of war can still be seen, rotting where they WWII. the hill behind the beach. The rest of town
scend in hordes. For malaria information were left. A short distance inland the coastal moun- stretches eastward towards the airport, about
see p323. Vanilla, once a lucrative crop for Sepik tains of the Prince Alexander Mountains sepa- 8km away. When locals refer to ‘the town’,
There are fewer mosquitoes in the June- villagers, has seen its price spiral downhill rate the narrow band of flat land and headland they are often specifically referring to Wewak’s
to-October dry season, and they are less of a in the last few years. A scarcity of buyers peninsula on which Wewak is built from the main drag which is also known as ‘the centre’.
problem once you get up the tributaries, to and a glut on the international market have Sepik Basin. Wewak is spread out, but fortunately there’s
higher altitudes and cooler weather. seen the 2003 record highs of US$450 per Wewak itself is an attractive town, and an excellent bus system around town.
kilogram nose dive to mere US$26 per kilo- while most people pause only long enough The intersection of Boram Rd with the
gram in 2007, and place additional hard- to arrange their Sepik expedition and stock road leading down to the main wharves and
EAST SEPIK PROVINCE ships on impoverished communities. The
provincial capital, Wewak, is linked by three
up on provisions, it does have its charms. A the provincial government offices is called
‘Caltex’, despite the fact that the service sta-
series of beaches with golden sand and backed
East Sepik Province is much more developed roads to the Sepik River towns of Angoram, by swaying palm trees start here and stretch tion is a BP outlet.
than Sandaun Province and includes the Timbunke, and Pagui. all along the coast. There’s a wharf for local fishing boats and
canoes next to Wewak town, and a longer one
0 80 km for ships, east of the Windjammer Hotel.
SANDAUN & EAST SEPIK PROVINCES 0 50 miles

Vanimo B
MAPS
a
To Jayapura
b e The Christian Bookshop (%856 2126) sells the
l b
e r 1:500,000 East Sepik and Sandaun Provinces
g
S t
ra
(K14) detailing the Sepik in all its coiled,
Be wa n i M o
u nt
i t twisted glory.
ai
ns
Sissano Warapu B I S M A R C K S E A
Bewani Arop
Tumleo I & Information
Seleo I EMERGENCY
SANDAUN
(WEST SEPIK)
Aitape
Tarawai I Walis I Ambulance (%856 2166)
PROVINCE
To
Lemieng
Mission Kairiru I
Vokeo I
Police (%856 2633)
rr
ic e Muschu
lli Passage
Imonda
Mo u n t a i n s
Pr Dagua Muschu I INTERNET ACCESS
i nc
e
Al e ai
n
R
Help Resources (%856 2661; tcentre@daltron.comt
x a nd aw Cape Cape Moem
Lumi er H
Mou n t a Wom Wewak .pg; per min 40t) On some days a piece of string and a
Amanab ins
r

couple of cans would work better. Sepik guides often come

Yello Rive

Maprik
Yangoru Passam Bam I
Hayfield Darapap here.
w

Entrance
r
Rive

Murik
Mendam
In Wewak Boutique Hotel (%856 2100; inwewak@
Yellow River Lakes global.net.pg; Seaview Rd) Has the only decent connec-
ser

Green River
Sepik River EAST SEPIK Watam
tions in town.
Hau

Marienberg
Tipas Jama PROVINCE r
ve
Ri
Pagwi Angoram
ik
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an Timbunke Chimondo
Hospital (%856 2166) On the point at Cape Boram.
r

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ive

Oum Ambunti
st No 1
Maio Chambri Palambei Bogia
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Yuat Rive

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May (

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ro change travellers cheques. It also has ATMs.
us

il

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(W
ara Westpac (%856 2113; The Centre) Has no ATMs (yet). It
W

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ive See Middle & Lower Yimas ram also charges 1% commission to change travellers cheques.
Leon

Hotmin r Sepik Map (pp196–7)

Mission April River

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THE SEPIK

THE SEPIK
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Source of Ariga River r a PROVINCE
de
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SOUTHERN
r TOURIST INFORMATION
or Telefomin R
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East Sepik Cultural & Tourism Bureau (%856
GULF PROVINCE l Ra n g e PROVINCE PROVINCE
Tabubil
Tekin
Oksapmin (3711m) e 2005; Boram Rd; h9.30am-4pm) It’s worth visiting
 180 E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • W e w a k lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • W e w a k 181

WEWAK 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Activities Festivals & Events
SWIMMING & SNORKELLING Wewak’s Garamut & Flute Festival is usually held
A B C D Wewak’s beaches are excellent – long stretches on the first weekend of September, and fea-
INFORMATION Sepil Adventure Tours....................(see 17) SHOPPING of white sand that fall away gently under the tures song and dance as well as yam-planting
ANZ...................................................1
Christian Bookshop............................2
C3
C3
Tennis Courts...................................12 D3 Chambri Market...............................23
Dagua Market..................................24
C4
A3
water. The water is clean and clear, warm and ceremonies.
1 East Sepik Cultural & Tourism Bureau..3 B4 SLEEPING Kreer Market....................................25 C4 very inviting.
Help Resources...................................4
Hospital.............................................5
A4
D3
Airport Lodge.................................. 13
In Wewak Boutique Hotel ...............14
D4
D2
Main Market....................................26
Nuigo Market...................................27
C3
A4
There’s excellent snorkelling around the Sleeping & Eating
Post Office.........................................6 C3 Paradise New Wewak Hotel.............15 C2 Wewak headland, over the outer reef and off There are good accommodation options
Provincial Government Offices...........7 B4 Seaview Hotel..................................16 C3 TRANSPORT
Westpac.............................................8 C3 Sepik Surfsite Lodge......................... 17 D4 Air Niugini........................................28 C3
the nearby islands. Like many coastal places among Wewak’s hotels and guesthouses.
Warihe Guesthouse ........................ 18 D3 Air Niugini......................................(see 29) in PNG, the diving conditions around Wewak You can stay in town at a couple of decent
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Wewak Backpackers........................19 A3 Air Terminal..................................... 29 D4
Catholic Church.................................9 C2 Windjammer Hotel...........................20 B4 Boats to Muschu & Kairiru Is............30 D3
are sensational – reefs, wrecks, tropical fish – hotels, but there’s no reason not to stay along
Cemetery......................................... 10 D2 BP Outlet..........................................31 B4 but there’s no organised diving industry the beach a few kilometres away from town
Japanese Memorial Peace Park.........11 B4 EATING Lutheran Shipping............................32 B4
Gala Ice Cream Bar .........................21 D3 MAF................................................ 33 D4 in Wewak. towards the airport. Daytime buses from here
Sce Wewak Point
Sea
nic Wewak Yacht Club.......................... 22 D3 Main PMV Stop.............................(see 26) to town are frequent and cheap, and the beach
Rabaul Shipping...............................34 C3
2 view
Rd
Dr
SURFING is brilliant.
Wewak West WEWAK
Va TOWN
Sce Between mid-October and late April mon- Eating options, beyond daytime kai bars
Harbour nic
l
ley Dr soon swells bring waves between 1m and (cheap takeaway food bars), are confined to
The La 15
Cen
tre Sea
view
14 2.5m to PNG’s northern coast, and there are the hotels and yacht club.
9 Rd 10 several good breaks around Wewak. Some Wewak Backpackers (Wewak Guesthouse; %856

Norse
See Enlargement

of the hotels have surfboards, but they’re 1497; Cathedral Rd; dm/s/d K25/50/100) Mrs Barry

man
Hill

C
16

V
pretty battered – surfers usually bring their (you won’t be on a first-name basis) runs

St

na
Ave
MONGNIOL

Ke
COMPOUND 12 own. her guesthouse with a titanium fist. When
Rd Va WEWAK 18
Da
a
gu 24
Wewak
lle
y TOWN she says ‘jump’, you ask ‘how high?’ It’s the
2
28 8 La
3 Harbour The GOLF cheapest place in town and none too clean.
Ch

26 Cen Boram Rd
urc

tre 21 22 There’s an 18-hole golf course beyond the Ralf Stüttgen’s Place (Tower Guesthouse; %856
hS

19 1 6
t

To Yarapos; Sim Wharf

Dagua; Wom; Bo
ram
og 34
un
Pd
30
0 400 m airport. It has a pleasant clubhouse for its 2395, 682 0051; s K40) Ralf, a naturalised citizen,
Aitape e 0 0.2 miles
52 members. has been knocking around PNG for some
Ca

Rd
th

Cape Boram
ed

Wirui Airstrip Wharf 5 time; first as a missionary and more recently

ra
l

(no longer Mission

Rd

in use) Point 32 TENNIS as an artefacts dealer. He provides basic ac-

Creek

20
11 Wreck of
Boram The tennis club on Wewak hill is seldom commodation in two very simple rooms in a
Bay
27 7 MV Busama manned. Bring your own racquet and if any- house overflowing with dogs, storage boxes,
Minga

4 Bo
one shows up, blame it on this guide (and carvings, books, WWII memorabilia and
t Rd

ra
m
Por

25 BORAM
4 Rd
To Moem Barracks; sort out the fee). ethnic art. Ralf doesn’t get many hard-core
d

Creek

Bor Golf Course

oR

NUIGO am backpackers anymore, a far cry from its hey-

Wir

WIRUI 31
ig

Rd 13 17
Tours
Nu

23
3
day in the ’80s when the guesthouse opened.
ui

KREER COMPOUND
m
ra Wewak is the main departure point for trips Ralf’s place is on a 400m ridge overlooking
Cree

To Japanese To Ralf Stüttgen's Place

To Sauri War Memorial (15km); Angoram; Pagwi Bo 29 33
KREER Boram
up the Sepik River. See p311 and p319 for the coast at Tower (there’s a radio mast),
k

Village (750m) SIL Guesthouse Airstrip

a list of inbound tourist operators who run 15km inland from Wewak. Take PMV 2-3
just in case there’s a local event happening they can some rapidly disappearing rusting Japanese all-inclusive trips in the area. Some can also (K2) to Tower from the main market.
tell you about, but otherwise this centre won’t be of landing barges. The Japanese War Memorial arrange tours around Wewak and out to the Warihe Guesthouse (%/fax 856 1153, 693 7201; dm/d
much use. marks the mass grave of many troops. The offshore islands of Mushu and Kairiru. K50/120) The dorms here are airless boxes but
Ralf Stüttgen (%856 2395) Ralf has been in the Sepik soldier’s bodies were later exhumed and For cheaper local guides and do-it-yourself the common toilets are clean and the showers
region since 1968. He doesn’t run tours but he offers ad- returned to Japan. options see p192. are cold-water only. The doubles are self -
vice to those heading to the Sepik and expects to be paid. Sepik Adventure Tours (% 856 2525; www contained with air-con and fridge. The bar
Alternatively, you’re welcome to buy some artefacts (p183) JAPANESE MEMORIAL PEACE PARK .ambuntilodge-sepiktour.com.pg; Sepik Surfsite Lodge) is here gets fairly rough.
and get some free advice. He also offers accommodation This peace park contains a memorial and a the most visible of the local operators and SIL Guesthouse (%856 2176/2416; s/d K80/90) The
(opposite). fish pond. Tok Pisin doesn’t have a word for a valuable source of information. Friendly SIL Guesthouse is in Kreer Heights, and is
peace; ‘peace’ sounds like pis, which means Alois Mateos also owns Ambunti Lodge clean, secure and comfortable. It’s also often
Sights fish. Thus, most locals refer to the park as on the Upper Sepik and specialises in all- full. There are several furnished two-bedroom
THE SEPIK

THE SEPIK
MISSION POINT TO CAPE BORAM pis park, which is perhaps appropriate given inclusive tours based there. A seven-night/ flats with kitchens, bathrooms and TV. This is
Near the main wharf lie the rusting remains the fish pond and the general ambivalence eight-day tour costs K6064 for a solo traveller a good place for a group, but book well ahead.
of MV Busama. Further down at Kreer, on the that many modern Papua New Guineans have or K2115 per person in a group of four. Bear To get there, take a town bus to Kreer Heights
road to the airport, there’s the wooden hulk towards WWII. in mind however that four of those days are and then ask for directions.
of a Taiwanese fishing junk. On the beach Ironically, the peace park is enclosed by actually spent in Wewak or travelling to/from Sepik Surfsite Lodge (%856 1516; adventurepng@
between Kreer Market and the hospital are a wire fence. Pagwi. datec.net.pg; r K105-156; a) The prime, beachside
 182 E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • W e w a k
location and the haus win (open-air structure
like a gazebo) restaurant (mains K35) and
bar are the chief draws here. The fan-cooled
cheaper rooms with shared, cold-water-only
facilities seemed pricey considering their fairly
basic amenities. The more expensive rooms
are essentially the same but are at least self-
contained with hot water and air-con. The
manager, Alois Mateos, is a great Sepik expert
and owner of Sepik Adventure Tours (p319)
and Ambunti Lodge (p194). The Surfside is
opposite the airport.
Seaview Hotel (%856 1131; fax 856 1281; Hill St;
s K121-191, tw/f K198/280; a) The Seaview has had
incarnations as a hotel and police barracks,
but it’s a hotel again now, and a comfortable
place to stay. The budget rooms represent
the best value for money whereas the VIP
rooms (K315) are overpriced. The à la carte
restaurant (meals K25 to K45) has outlooks
to the town and a sweeping arc of the harbour
but the service is very slow. Tariffs include
airport transfers.
Paradise New Wewak Hotel (%856 2155; fax 856
3411; Hill St; s/d/tr K132/154/176; a) There’s nothing
‘new’ about the New Wewak Hotel. Situated
atop the headlands, overlooking the ocean,
this old hotel seems destined to fall into
disrepair. The rooms however are large and
comfortable with fans, fridges, phone, air-
con and private facilities. The open air, haus
win restaurant (mains K20 to K35; open 8am
to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm) and bar has great
views to Robin Island and serves fare of the
‘steak ’n’ chip’ variety.
Windjammer Hotel (% 856 2388; windjammer@
datec.net.pg; Boram Rd; s K135-400, d K185-465; ai)
The Windjammer is halfway between the
town and the airport, right on the beach.
There is a dizzying array of rooms – all
priced differently. Some rooms were quite
comfortable but others smelt musty and
were in need of modernisation to justify
their prices. At one time the Windjammer
had a large collection of Sepik art adorn-
ing its walls, but these have been sold to an
European art collector. Nonetheless it’s still
worth visiting just to see the magnificent
carved crocodile bar. The beachside haus
THE SEPIK
win makes the Windjammer a nice place for
dinner. The restaurant (meals K30 to K50;
open 6pm to 10pm) serves some of the best
food in town, including seafood, burgers and
salads. There a nightclub attached which can
get noisy and very rough. No shirt required.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Airport Lodge (%856 2373; marg@online.com.pg;
s K154-187 d K165-198; a) Opposite the airport,
this a good midrange option. The rooms are
clean with small en suites and have TVs.
There’s a large aviary in the tropical gardens
and when the cockatoo gets to screeching
you’ll be tempted to turn it into a headdress.
The beach bar is under a large shade sail and
it’s a great place for lunch (K17 to K20) and
a beer. The restaurant offers a choice of three
mains (K40) in the evenings.
In Wewak Boutique Hotel (%856 2100; inwewak@
global.net.pg; Seaview Rd; s K200, d/tw K280-380, f K380;
ais) This gleaming white, spotlessly
clean, plantation-style hotel opened in 2006
and is easily the best accommodation available.
The rooms are accessed off expansive decks
furnished with comfortable outdoor lounges.
The small single rooms have flat-screen TVs
but no air-con and there is only one twin
room. Discounts are sometimes available to
those who ask. The Cocoa Café (mains K20;
open 7am to 9am and 11am to 2pm) is reason-
ably priced as is the Vanilla Room (mains K40
to K50; open 6pm to 9pm). The latter serves
local food prepared to international standards
with dishes such as seared yellow-finned tuna
or chicken in green coconut curry. Yum.
Gala Ice Cream Bar (% 682 4515; meals K10;
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) The best kai bar in
town with outside seating on the waterfront.
It serves a decent chicken and chips, and three
flavours of ice cream.
Wewak Yacht Club (%856 2708; meals K20; h2-
8pm) The yacht club overlooks a nice part of
the harbour. There aren’t too many yachts tied
up, and the patrons are mostly Wewak locals
and expats who come for drinks and simple
pub-grub. Dances are held here every couple
of months and while the club is for members,
tourists are welcomed.
Shopping
Wewak is adequately supplied with super-
markets, chemists and clothing stores. There’s
a market and several Christian bookstores.
There are also several bulk stores that supply
regional trade stores up the river.
MARKETS
The main market, at the west end of the town’s
main shopping strip, is pretty colourful thanks
to the multitude of umbrellas used to shade
the merchants. There are a few bilums (string
bags) and occasionally some small trinkets for
lonelyplanet.com
sale; otherwise it’s largely all local produce on
offer. The dried fish can get fairly ‘ripe’ in the
hot sun but it’s worth poking around here
to see if anyone has brought in a live baby
crocodile to sell – usually with its snout tied
shut. This is also the main PMV stop.
There are several other markets around
Wewak, of which Kreer market, on the air-
port road just before it turns inland, is the
most interesting. Chambri market on Boram
Rd sells buai (betel nut) and a few artefacts.
There are also Dagua and Nuigo markets
which sell buai, pitpit and sometimes woven
pandanus satchels.
CARVINGS
Nobody comes to the Sepik without buying
at least one carving and buying just one is
often a good strategy. Sepik pieces are often
heavy and large, and are a drag to lug around
the country. Small flyers charge a premium
on excess baggage no matter how empty the
flight is. The Airport Lodge and Sepik Surfsite
Lodge both have small craft shops.
Ralf Stüttgen (%856 2395, 682 0051) has a vast
array of Sepik carvings collected over a life-
time with pieces from 50 different villages. His
artefacts are for sale, or he can tell you where
to buy particular pieces on the river.
Getting There & Around
AIR
Wewak is a major hub for air transport around
the Sepik. Air Niugini (%856 2233; fax 856 2203; The
Centre) has frequent connections to Madang
(K360, 40 minutes), Vanimo (K351, 35 min-
utes) and Port Moresby (K650, via Madang).
Other destinations are via Port Moresby.
MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship; %856 2124; Airport)
flies to Ambunti (K280, whole plane char-
ter K2100) in the Sepik every Tuesday and
Thursday and Vanimo (K590) on Wednesday
and Friday via Aitape (K300). It also flies
into many remote airstrips in the East Sepik
Province and on to Mt Hagen on Monday.
BOAT
Lutheran Shipping (Luship; %852 2577; luship.madang
@global.net.pg) connects Wewak to Vanimo
(K107 to K192) fortnightly and Madang
(K79 to K107) weekly. It’s predominantly a
cargo carrier, but some of its ships also carry
passengers.
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %856 1160; Simogun
Pde) operates the MV Kokopo Queen between
E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d W e w a k 183
Madang and Vanimo calling into Wewak
on the way past. Schedules are erratic but
generally there are two overnight services a
month costing adult/student K80/70 to either
Madang or Vanimo.
The Wuvulu-Aua community own the
MV Thompson, which does a trading circuit
between Wuvulu, Aua, Manus, Wewak and
Madang, but there’s no schedule so it’s a mat-
ter of asking around at the port.
CAR & PMV
There are roads running west along the
coast as far as Aitape, through the Torricelli
Mountains and into the Sepik Basin, but
they’re very rough.
The 3-10 PMV bound for Maprik (K20,
four hours) leave between noon and 1am
Monday to Saturday from near the post of-
fice. Other routes include the 3-5 and 3-6 to
Kubalia; the 3-7 to Yangoru and the 3-9 to
Wosera (all K10).
For travel to the Sepik access towns of
Pagwi, Timbunke and Angoram from Wewak
see p190.
AROUND WEWAK
Cape Moem
There are some fine beaches for swimming and
diving at Cape Moem, past the airport. The
cape is an army base however, so seek permis-
sion from the commanding officer (%856 2060).
Get a bus to Moem Barracks, then walk 1km
along a dirt road to the right.
At Brandi High School, to the east of
Cape Moem, there’s a collection of Japanese
war relics.
Cape Wom
Fourteen kilometres west of Wewak, Cape
Wom International Memorial Park (admission K4;
h7am-6.30pm) is the site of a wartime airstrip
and where the Japanese surrender took place.
There’s a war memorial flanked by flagpoles
on the spot where Japanese Lieutenant
General Adachi signed the surrender docu-
ments and handed his sword to Australian
Major General Robertson on 13 September
1945. On the west side of the cape there’s a
THE SEPIK
good reef for snorkelling and a nice stretch
of sand for swimming. It’s a pleasant place
for picnics and has good views across to
the islands.
Cape Wom has had raskol (bandit) prob-
lems so it’s best to go when many people are
 184 E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • M a p r i k A re a
around. It’s always popular on weekends.
There’s no transport that reaches there – you
could catch a PMV bound for Dagua (a village
further west) at the Wewak main market and
get off at the turn-off to the cape at Suara.
From the turn-off it is a 3km walk. There’s a
ranger at the gates.
Coastal Islands
Just off Wewak’s coast are the beautiful and
often overlooked islands of Muschu and
Kairiru. Speed boats leave from the beach
opposite the post office at around 3pm to both
Muschu (K15) and Kairiru (K20).
MUSCHU ISLAND
Palm trees, turquoise waters, nearby reefs and
a left-hand point-break (November to March)
make this one of Papua New Guinea’s best-
kept secrets. Muschu may only be a half-hour
boat ride from downtown Wewak but it’s a
whole other world away and the perfect place
to unwind after the rigours of the Sepik.
Hidden in the jungle are a couple of
Japanese antiaircraft guns and a plane wreck.
There isn’t much left of the plane; some scat-
tered debris, two hulking engines and a pro-
peller. Further inland, two jeeps lie abandoned
alongside the Japanese Road, now overgrown
with regenerating jungle.
From the main village of Sup it’s a five-hour
walk to the area school and the deep and won-
derfully clear swimming hole.
oAuong Guesthouse (George’s Guesthouse;
Sup village; K30 per person) Ask for George around
the small beach opposite Wewak’s post office.
He’ll run you across to the island (K15) to
his beachside guesthouse. Accommodation is
in a simple, but spotlessly clean bungalow, a
stone’s throw from an unspoilt, coral-fringed
beach. George’s wife Josephine makes deli-
cious meals (K15 to K17) and his sons guide
guests (K10) to local sights. George also has
a set of scuba equipment (K80), a surfboard
and snorkel set (K25) for hire.
KAIRIRU ISLAND
Kairiru is heavily forested and rises to nearly
800m. Its western end is volcanic and the sea
THE SEPIK
has broken into an active crater at Victoria Bay
where there’s good snorkelling, hot springs
and waterfalls. At the northeastern end of the
island, there are two big Japanese guns.
It is possible to stay here at some grass-
roots guesthouses. On the far side of the
lonelyplanet.com
island at Shagur village, Wolfy Kalem runs
Polen Guesthouse (r per person K20, meals K10-15). On
the southern side of the island there is also a
Catholic Mission that accepts guests.
MAPRIK AREA
There isn’t much to Maprik. There is a market,
post office, two churches and a couple of stores
selling the bare essentials (and, oddly enough,
ice-cream scoops although, disappointingly,
no ice-cream) and that’s about it. A tour of
the town takes a couple of minutes; look out
for the pair of carved totem poles of which one
side is male and the other, female.
Maprik town aside, this area in the Prince
Alexander Mountains overlooking the vast
Sepik Basin is very interesting. It’s noted for
the Abelam people’s distinctive haus tambarans,
yam cults, carvings and decorations. There are
numerous villages around Maprik, many with
a striking, forward-leaning haus tambaran,
an architectural style echoed in such mod-
ern buildings as Parliament House in Port
Moresby. The front façade of the Maprik haus
tambarans are brightly painted in browns,
ochres, whites and blacks and in some cases
reach 30m high.
Without your own vehicle getting to the
various villages can be problematic. Speak to
the owner of the Maprik Wakin Hotel to ar-
range an impromptu tour. Traditionally haus
tambarans were exclusively an initiated-man’s
domain, but these days the rules are usually
bent for Western travellers. Locals usually
charge between K5 to K10 to enter and an
additional K5 to K10 photography fee. There
isn’t much to see inside anymore, most of
the art having been sold to collectors decades
ago. The tunnel-like entrance at the front is
reserved for ceremonies; you’ll be asked to
enter by a door at the back.
Yams are a staple food in this region.
Harvesting entails considerable ritual and
you may see yam festivals during the July or
August harvest time. Woven fibre masks are
used in ceremonies where yams are decorated
to resemble people.
Interesting back roads connect villages be-
tween Maprik and Lumi, some with spectacu-
lar haus tambarans and good carvings. You
can walk between these villages. Ask permis-
sion before entering a village and then see the
bigman (local leader).
Maprik makes for a convenient overnight
stop on the way to Pagwi.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Sleeping
At the time of research there was a half
built orange building, on a small rise above
the police station that, we were told, was
also to be a guesthouse and may be worth
asking about.
Niamikum Guest House (%689 4477; per person
K50) If arriving by PMV you’ll need to ar-
range with the driver to run you the extra
2km out of town to this camp. The cab-
ins here are scattered through spacious
grounds. There is a communal kitchen
but no bathrooms, just a river; go easy on
the soap.
Maprik Wakin Hotel (%858 1315; r K77-143) The
only difference between the VIP and stand-
ard rooms is that the VIP ones come with
their own bathroom. Otherwise expect the
same c 1970s lino and mismatched curtains.
The Wakin is near the town market.
Getting There & Away
To get to Maprik from Wewak catch a 3-
10 PMV (Monday to Saturday) from op-
posite the post office. The road climbs up
and over the Prince Alexander Mountains
then, 132km later, turns off at the Hayfield’s
junction for the final 8km into town. The
trip takes between three and four hours and
costs K20.
PMVs run back to Wewak and to Pagwi
(K10, two hours) from the town market
place. The last stretch to Pagwi reaches
the Sepik floodplain and has recently
been upgraded courtesy of the Australian
government.
SANDAUN PROVINCE
Sandaun (pronounced sundown) Province
is so named because it’s in the northwest of
PNG – where the sun goes down. Formerly
called West Sepik Province, it’s largely un-
developed, but agricultural activity around
Telefomin and timber development near
Vanimo have brought rapid change. Gold
is mined inland. There are opportunities to
surf and enjoy the beaches here but it is a
very remote part of PNG.
Sandaun Province is most notable to out-
siders because of the devastating tsunami in
the region near Aitape in 1998. As in East
Sepik Province, cash-crop farmers are mak-
ing good profits on vanilla beans which are
S A N D AU N P R O V I N C E • • Va n i m o 185
often traded over the border into Indonesian
West Papua.
VANIMO
Vanimo is a tiny outpost on the western edge
of a remote country; most travellers who get
this far go onto Jayapura in Indonesia.
Vanimo’s topography, with its peninsula
and hill, is reminiscent of Wewak and, like-
wise, there are beautiful beaches and a bus-
tling port. Vanimo, however, is much smaller
and quieter, with generous and hospitable
people. The town’s Indonesian influence
is quite marked in the goods for sale in the
stores as much as the fabrics hanging up in
the market.
The Malaysian logging company Vanimo
Forest Products (www.vanimoforestproducts.com.pg)
is logging the province and there are busi-
ness opportunities with cross-border trade.
Hopes are high for development even
though the Indonesian and Malaysian busi-
ness people seem to have a disdain for the
local service workers that is quite palpable
and uncomfortable.
Orientation
Vanimo is built at the base of a hilly headland
on a narrow isthmus. The airport’s runway
slashes across the neck of this isthmus from
the western ports to the eastern beaches. ‘The
Town’ can be found between the airport and
the base of the headland and has all the es-
sentials – supermarkets, post office, Westpac
(which cashes travellers cheques for K30),
Bank South Pacific (with an ATM), hotels and
a rather unimpressive market.
Most hotels send vans to meet arriving
guests, but the two main hotels are only a five-
minute walk away, opposite the Indonesian
consulate.
Sights & Activities
There’s a pleasant two-hour walk around the
headland, but carry water and sun protection.
People in the villages here don’t get a lot of
tourists or even a lot of local passers-by so
be respectful as you enter an area and seek
THE SEPIK
approval before moving on. There’s good
snorkelling offshore and the beaches are sen-
sational, but ask before stripping down and
plunging in.
Another good walk is west along the beach
from the airport. After 40 minutes you come
 186 S A N D AU N P R O V I N C E • • Va n i m o
to a limestone headland draped with vines –
wade around it to the beautiful beach on the
other side. There’s a rusting Japanese landing
barge just offshore.
Narimo Island can be seen offshore from
the Vanimo Beach Hotel. This is an excellent
place for picnics and swimming. The hotel
may be able to arrange a boat to take you
there or else ask about boat hire at West Deco
village near the main wharf on the other side
of the peninsula.
SURFING
One claim to fame that Vanimo does have
is the best surf in PNG, and it’s one of the
primary reasons why people come to Vanimo.
The surf is strictly seasonal, from October
through April, when monsoon swells bring
waves between 1m and 2m. Vanimo and
around has excellent point-breaks and beach-
breaks with consistently good surf. There’s a
local bunch of surfers known as the Lido Surf
Club – an informal collective who show visit-
ing surfers around in a banana boat out to the
nearby island breaks. They can even arrange
accommodation in local villages. There’s no
surf-rage in PNG and the scene is just in its
infancy. BYO boards.
In February 2007 the Surfing Association of
Papua New Guinea (www.surfingpapuanewguinea.org
.pg) held the national surf titles here and by all
accounts some got ‘axed by gnarly bombs in
the green room’ while others ‘boosted some
major, bitchin’ air’ – umm right. See p287 for
more on surfing in PNG.
Sleeping & Eating
Travellers have reported that if you hang
around the Vanimo Beach Hotel with your
backpack, looking homeless, locals offer
homestays.
Tanyuli Bungalows (Yako Village; d K80) These nine
bungalows are in the seaside village of Yako
(PMV fare K1.50), next to Baro school, on the
way to the Indonesian border. Facilities are
fairly basic – a mattress on the floor, but there
are plans to improve the toilets and shower. If
you ask nicely your hosts will prepare meals.
Vanimo Beach Hotel (%857 1102; fax 857 1131; s/d
THE SEPIK
from K94/165) This hotel has a range of rooms
and self-contained suites. The well-trimmed
gardens and traditionally inspired bungalows
(K325) make a pretty impression when you ar-
rive and are very comfortable. Unfortunately,
the standard rooms are a big step down.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Weekends get noisy when Malay business-
men are in town to spend their money and
feed the pokies. There’s a comfortable bar
area and a great restaurant (mains K25; open
7am to 9am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 5pm to
9pm) which serves Western essentials (steak),
Malaysian classics and local lobster.
Varmoneh Lodge (%857 1281; fax 857 1273; s K99,
d K99-132; a) This is a steep walk from town
at East Tower – head for the antennae array.
Oddly, the more expensive self-contained de-
luxe rooms have no windows and are pretty
grim. Meals are available (K15 to K25) and
feature yams, sago, banana and fresh fish.
Alcohol is not allowed and airport transfers
are included in the tariff.
Vissers Guesthouse (%857 1366; fax 857 1309; s/d/
apt K98/196/392; a) The guesthouse is up the hill
on the west side of the headland. The wood-
panelled rooms are large, comfortable and
quaintly old-fashioned. There is no kitchen or
restaurant but there is free, spasmodic trans-
port to town, a 15-minute walk away.
Sandaun Motel (%857 1148; reception@sandaun
motel.com.pg; s/d K168/196; a) The motel is remi-
niscent of a string of railway carriages – a series
of large airy bungalows, each with a wooden
floor, overhead fan, TV and fridge. The bar
and restaurant (meals K20 to K40; open 7am
to 9am, noon to 2pm and 6pm to 9pm) serves
steaks, Chinese and lobster dishes.
Shopping
There are several supermarkets and chemists
in Vanimo all spread apart. There are mar-
kets located on a few green stretches around
town selling fruit and vegetables, clothing and
Indonesian cigarettes.
Getting There & Away
AIR
To avoid the queues head early to the Air
Niugini (%857 1014; sales.vanimo@airniugini.com.pg)
office in town near the market. There are
three flights a week to Wewak (K351),
Madang (K607), Lae (K836) and Port
Moresby (K824).
MAF (% 857 1091; fax 857 1481) has flights
to Amanab (K250), Green River (K320),
Telefomin (K580), Tabubil (K610) and
Oksapmin (K750).
Dovair (%857 1259) is principally a charter-
only company that can drop you into the
jungle so that you can walk out. Good luck
with that!
lonelyplanet.com
BOAT
The Lutheran Shipping agent (%857 1320; h9am-
1pm & 2-4pm) is located in the Vanair building
not far from MAF. It opens its office three
days prior to the arrival of the fortnightly MV
Rita or MV Momase. Prices vary between the
two boats and the two classes (the upper-deck
tourist class and the bottom-deck passenger
class). Boats travel to Aitape (K45 to K94),
Wewak (K79 to K107) and Madang (K107
to K192).
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %693 3176) runs
the MV Kokopo Queen twice a month to
Wewak (K80, overnight) and Madang
(K160, two days). Its office is the white
shipping container opposite PNG Ports at
the wharf.
Banana boats depart Vanimo, weather per-
mitting, for Aitape (K90 to K100, four to five
hours) regularly. Larger vessels that supply
the coastal trade stores sometimes pin no-
tices around town advertising schedules and
departure dates.
CAR & PMV
The road from Vanimo to Jayapura is finally
finished and travel to Indonesia by land is
simple. You need to have a visa, which you
can get from the Indonesian consulate, but
other than that, what used to be complicated
is now very easy. See p310 for details.
Visser Enterprises Ltd (%857 1366) rents cars
for K280 per day. It also runs a local guest-
house (opposite) and will drive you to the border
for K154.
Getting Around
Vanimo itself is easy to get around by foot,
although there are a couple of taxis. PMVs
run along the beach roads. Banana boats
ferry people around the coast – it costs K25
to Lido.
AROUND VANIMO
The coast between Vanimo and the Indo-
nesian border has many superb beaches,
waterholes and lagoons, pretty creeks and
picturesque villages. There are panoramic
views up and down the coast and locals will
direct you to several fine waterfalls.
Lido village has a worthwhile surf beach
and a village guesthouse. Outside every
house at Waramo, there are smaller and
well-constructed houses stacked meticu-
lously with cut firewood. This variety of
S A N D AU N P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d Va n i m o 187
traditional wealth is presented to newly
married couples.
AITAPE
Aitape is a tiny coastal town east of Vanimo
towards Wewak.
The Germans established a station here in
1905 and the jail they built in 1906 still stands
above the town. It was used by the Japanese
during WWII.
In 1944 an Australian division pushed
inland from Aitpe, against considerable
Japanese opposition, to establish a base in
the Torricelli Mountains. From there, they
pushed the Japanese eastward until Wewak
fell on 22 May 1945. A B24 bomber sits out-
side Aitape High School between Tadji air-
strip and the town. There’s a Japanese war
memorial between the town and the Santa
Anna Mission.
As fierce as that fighting was, the tsunami
on 17 July 1998, really laid waste to the area.
A 10m tsunami struck a 14km stretch of
coastline and swallowed everything within
500m from the shoreline. More than 2200
people were killed, 1000 terribly injured and
10,000 became homeless in an instant. Help
didn’t arrive for 16 hours and it was three
days before most of the injured were admitted
into hospitals at Vanimo and Wewak.
Getting There & Away
There are two airstrips: Tadji and Aitape.
Tadji airstrip, where most flights land,
is 10km out of town. There’s nothing at
the grass strip except a windsock and guy
with a two-way radio, and even he goes
away between flights. The airstrip was
the scene of much activity during WWII
when the Australian Air Force flew Bristol
Beaufort bombers from it – the original
tarmac can still be seen in places through
the vegetation.
The road between Wewak and Aitape is
very rough and closed during the occasional
bad wet season. In Wewak ask around the
PMV stop opposite the town wharf for the
next truck heading to Aitape (K60, twice
weekly).
THE SEPIK
Banana boats travel from Aitape to
Vanimo (K90 to K100), but this is a dan-
gerous undertaking in rough weather when
they often sink. Luship and Star Ships boats
call in here on their runs between Wewak
and Vanimo.
 188 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S
TELEFOMIN
The remote station of Telefomin was estab-
lished in 1948 and remains one of the most
isolated communities in PNG.
The local MAF pilots and pastors give
excellent advice on local walks, includ-
ing a three-hour trek to the source of the
Sepik. Between 1912 and 1914, Richard
Thurnwald walked some hard yards follow-
ing the Sepik to this stream, found not far
from Telefomin.
Children can guide you to Oketemp Cave (1½
hours return) and Songitin eternal flame (two
hours return). Bring your matches to light
the natural gas that seeps from the ground as
the rain will have put it out.
Missionaries are very active here and tra-
ditional ways are dying out. Men no longer
wear ‘Telefomin trousers’ (penis gourds)
for which the area is renowned other than
at singsings, Christmas celebrations and
Independence Day. The town’s genera-
tor kicks in at 6pm and finishes at 10pm –
provided it has fuel.
Sleeping
To contact the church guesthouses, send a
message via MAF (%857 1091; fax 857 1481) to the
appropriate pastor.
Telefomin Baptist Association Guesthouse (contact
Pastor Silas Kameng; per person K60) As with ABSM
guesthouse, you get the whole house to rattle
around in.
ABSM Guesthouse (contact Pastor Silas Neksep; s K70,
group of up to 5 people K140) This is a basic self-
contained home. Linen, cutlery and pots are
all supplied.
Min Baptist Union Guesthouse (MBU; contact
Pastor Yanga Finarok; s K85, group K170) This house
has one double and three singles in a simply
furnished home.
Getting There & Away
MAF has a surprisingly large base here, and
several pilots and their families live locally –
one even has satellite broadband!
There are flights to and from Telefomin
between Vanimo (K580) and Tabubil (K150)
twice a week. The Thurnwald and Victor
THE SEPIK
Emanuel Ranges are often obscured by cloud
and when incoming weather systems collide
with the ridges they throw up some pretty
turbulent air. During such times, flights
are suspended.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
It is possible to walk to Oksapmin in four to
six days. You would need to carry a tent and
bring your own food. Pastor Silas Neksep can
help locate guides.
OKSAPMIN
Oksapmin Station was established in 1962
and is now the main town in the area. This is
a beautiful region with the Om and Strickland
Rivers and their spectacular valleys. The climb
from the valley floor to the ridges is as high as
3000m in some places. The district is impor-
tant for the vegetables it grows and supplies
to the Ok Tedi mine (p205) and its name is
derived from its two main clans, the Ok and
the Min.
Oksapmin was historically a protein-
deficient area; even spiders, grubs and beetles
were eaten before tinpis (tinned fish) was in-
troduced. In the evenings you can sometimes
see torchlight around the valleys as women
search for frogs, mice and snakes.
There are some dramatic caves in the
Oksapmin Valley – you’ll need a guide.
An interesting circular walk can be made
through the villages around Oksapmin to
the west and back along the Ariga River.
North of Oksapmin, there are very few peo-
ple, but around the town and to the south
in the five high valleys of Bimin, Bak, Tekin,
Teranap and Gaua there are more than
10,000 people.
For the more ambitious it is possible to
walk from Oksapmin to the Strickland Gorge
and on to Lake Kopiago, from where you
could catch a lift to Tari. This area is driest
in November and December but can be very
wet any time.
THE SEPIK & ITS
TRIBUTARIES
The mighty Sepik is the most famous feature
of PNG and has captured the collective imagi-
nation of adventure travellers. It represents to
outsiders something quintessentially primi-
tive, and an embodiment of ideas portrayed in
Conrad’s Heart of Darkness – a vast, densely
populated river region home to isolated peo-
ple (Conrad was a friend of the anthropologist
Bronislaw Kasper Malinowski).
The scale of the river, the impressive ar-
chitecture of haus tambarans, the beautiful
lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • W h a t t o B r i n g 189
stilt villages, the long canoes with crocodile- boats and canoes, they wear Western clothes,
head prows, the bird life, flower-clogged lakes, but they still practise many traditions.
misty dawns and spectacular sunsets make a Christianity, as elsewhere in PNG, is
visit unforgettable. blended with many traditional beliefs.
The Middle Sepik is one of the most fre- Although most Sepik people would claim to
quently visited parts of the river, but it is not be Christian (they go to church every Sunday)
crowded with tourists – you’re unlikely to it’s a very localised interpretation. The reli-
bump into other travellers. The river carries gious world is also inhabited with the spirits
traders and missionaries, but that’s about it. of ancestors and crocodiles.
While photos of Sepik villages look idyllic, The Sepik is too big to cover, so pick a sec-
they don’t show the heat and humidity, the tion and give yourself plenty of time to relax
mosquitoes or the basic village food. Nor do in the villages in between legs on the river
they indicate the meditative nature of travel- – don’t try and do too much. Two or three
ling for hours every day in a motor-canoe, Middle Sepik villages are enough for most
watching ibis take to the sky as you round a people, and some enjoy it more when they
bend, or the rewards of experiencing these get off the main river.
rich and fascinating cultures. The Upper Sepik extends from the river’s
During the dry season water levels drop source to just below Ambunti, the Middle
dramatically, cutting off villages and turn- Sepik covers from Ambunti to Tambanum
ing the lakes stagnant. The trapped water and the Lower Sepik is the final section from
heats up resulting in a toxic algae bloom Tambanum to the coast.
which kills the fish. Eagles then feast on the
dead fish (which are found in droves on the What to Bring
river banks). Only take to the Sepik what you need on the
The river has few exploitable natural re- Sepik – leave your luggage with someone you
sources and has attracted little development trust in Wewak. A daypack is plenty.
in spite of the density of the population. Even The biggest issues on the Sepik are mos-
in the face of Western influences, the peo- quitoes (natnats, p178) and sunburn. You’ll
ple on the river are living much the same need to cover up for both – long sleeves and
way as their ancestors – people here cook loose-fitting trousers in lightweight fab-
in Western pots and drive motor-powered rics are ideal although natnats can bite
DOS & DON’TS
There’s probably too much hang-up about appropriate behaviour in the Sepik area. Good man-
ners go a long way and locals usually forgive transgressions of local rules – you won’t know
you’ve done something wrong. Rules might be different for men and women. Try and remember
the following:
„ Don’t wear your hat and shoes into a haus tambaran (spirit house).
„ Dress and act conservatively.
„ Ask where you may wash.
„ Ask before taking photographs of anybody or anything – haus tambarans are taboo.
„ ‘Best price?’ Don’t bargain, but objects sometimes have two prices. It’s OK to ask and leave it
at that.
„ Don’t be aloof. Meet with people, relate with them and demonstrate that you respect their
culture.
THE SEPIK
„ Be discrete about displaying your cash.
„ Alcohol can be a very sensitive thing in villages – it’s probably better not to have any.
„ The gender politics can be a bit confusing; it’s better that men mingle with the men and
women with women. There can be awkwardness if Western women are allowed into sacred
haus tambarans when local women aren’t. Couples should not overtly show affection.
 190 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • S l e e p i n g & E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r a v e l o n t h e S e p i k 191

right through looser weaves and fine cot-
tons. Covered footwear is essential as is a
broad-brimmed hat.
If you’re travelling on a plush cruise boat
you won’t need much beyond some sensible
clothes, but for everyone else, preparation
is important. You will probably be sleeping
rough (although some river guesthouses pro-
vide mattresses and linen) and an inflatable
hiker’s mattress is perfect when combined
with a box-style mosquito net secured at four
corners (the umbrella type are crap). You can
buy good mosquito nets in Wewak. A sleeping
sheet is ideal – silk is lighter and less bulky,
cotton is a little cooler. A torch (flashlight) is
essential and Sepik people have a voracious
appetite for D-size batteries, so stow some to
give away. There is nowhere to recharge spent
digital camera batteries so bring an extra or
go easy on the previews.
You bathe in the river, but never nude:
bring some swimmers or a laplap (sarong)
and a towel. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses,
industrial-strength insect repellent, toilet
paper, a spoon and a bowl. Rain water is
collected and is fine to drink, but you might
want to carry bottled water to be safe. Take
a basic first-aid kit (see p320), and an um-
brella might be worthwhile protection from
the sun.
In Wewak or Vanimo you must stock up on
food and cash. Of the former pack two-minute
noodles, kundu crackers (beef crackers), rice
and tinpis. Take some cooking oil as well as
that’s precious in the Sepik. Any spare food
you have remaining you can give away and it’s
gratefully received. Take plenty of small bills
as villagers seldom have change.
Sleeping & Eating
Finding a place to stay will rely on your abil-
ity to find people willing to accommodate
you. Locals often consider their dwellings
below the standard acceptable to ‘white’ folks
and although you would gladly roll out your
mattress on their floor the feeling may not be
reciprocal. This is where the knowledge of a
local guide is invaluable. Other villagers who
have travelled beyond the Sepik are generally
THE SEPIK
New Guinea, none is considered deserted
by the local who owns it. Landowners have
a tradition of fighting over land, and their
forefathers didn’t spend centuries holding
off marauding neighbours just to have some
tourist paddle up and camp on it. Instead,
ask to speak to the village chief about village
guesthouses or local families willing to let
you stay or camp with them. If you stay in
someone’s home, compensation is expected
although you will seldom be asked directly to
make a contribution.
Getting There & Away
The river is only accessible by road at three
points – Angoram on the Lower Sepik and
Timbunke and Pagwi on the Middle Sepik.
PMVs in these parts are mostly trucks, either
with a tarpaulin covering bench seats down
each side, or a plain open tray. Those with
a sensitive tail bone might consider bring-
ing a pillow – it can be very hard on your
rear end.
From Wewak, catch a 3-8 PMV to Pagwi
from the post office between 9.30pm and
11.30pm (K30, Monday, Wednesday and
Thursday). These vehicles run through the
night in order to meet the waiting canoes at
around 6am the next morning. They return
to Wewak as soon as they are full, usually
between 6am and 8am.
Roads to Timbunke are impassable in the
wet and this is the most unreliable of the three
towns in terms of transport. The trip takes
about seven hours and costs K40.
2-4 PMVs bound for Angoram leave from
Wewak’s market every day, except Sunday
(K30, four hours). The road from Wewak to
Angoram is the shortest access route to the
Sepik. It branches off the Maprik road 19km
out of Wewak. The 113km, all-weather road is
good by Sepik standards but it’s still extremely
uncomfortable. If you’re returning to Wewak
you start very early (around 3am) in order to
get the locals to the morning market if not
bright, at least early.
PMVs are scarce on Saturday and don’t
run on Sunday. Market days are the best days
to travel when the trucks (and canoes) are
TRIBAL ART
The Sepik is synonymous with tribal art (p45). It is often described as Papua New Guinea’s ‘treasure
trove’; overflowing with masks, shields, figures, canoe prows and story boards and today carving
plays an important part of the river economy.
And like all art forms that are alive and vigorous, Sepik art is constantly undergoing subtle
transformations, evolving from traditional forms to reflect current tastes and artistic fashions.
Today, just as in the past, a master carver is regarded with considerable prestige and is quite
capable of producing quality work every bit as unique as his forefathers.
The most artistic villages are concentrated on the Middle Sepik. The villages of Palambei,
Kaminabit, Mindimbit, Timbunke and Tambanum are all good places to buy tribal art. Remember
that a 10kg carving might cost less than K100 but excess-baggage or postage charges might
be twice the cost of the item.
There is also a dark side to art collecting, and over the years unscrupulous art collectors have
plundered the Sepik of some of its most significant and culturally important pieces. Taking ad-
vantage of local poverty, the lucrative ethnic art market and toothless laws, traders have been
able to strip the area of its cultural treasures leaving the treasure chest, or more aptly, the skull
rack, empty.
Rory Callinan’s interesting article on the trafficking of human heads is worth reading at www
.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1086707,00.html.
TRAVEL ON THE SEPIK leaving you up the proverbial creek without
Broadly speaking you have three options. You a paddle!
can go-it-alone, hire a local guide or book on The biggest advantage of going alone is that
a prearranged tour. Which one you choose it is considerably cheaper than the other two
determines the degree of comfort you can options and, like it or not, you’ll be forced to
expect and ultimately how much you’ll end up live as the locals do and gain an exceptional
spending. All have their pros and cons, and all insight into their way of life.
are more expensive than you might imagine.
To experience the Sepik more economically PADDLING YOURSELF
(and some would say more enjoyably) base You can purchase a small dugout for about
yourself in one village, live with a family, and K300 and paddle yourself. However, this is
learn the art of sago washing, canoe making, probably insane – the distances are vast and
gardening and fishing. you can only paddle downstream. You might
be able to buy a canoe in Ambunti or Pagwi;
Goin’ Alone it may take a while to find one. Make sure it’s
While it’s possible to travel on the Sepik suitably river-worthy. It takes a solid week of
independently without a guide, very few paddling to get from Ambunti to Angoram.
people do so. Even if you plan to use local This option should not be taken lightly and
river traffic you’ll get far more from the ex- we don’t recommend it; die-hards should be
perience if you have the help of a local to well prepared and very well-informed.
explain the everyday happenings, cultures
and languages. There are some raskols up- VILLAGE CANOES & TRADERS
river and a guide is honour-bound to get The river traffic is reasonably constant al-
you onto the river and back again safely – though totally unpredictable, and if you’ve
once on the water you are days away from the got a pretty open-ended schedule and a lot
nearest medical help. of time you can catch rides in locals’ boats.
If you really want to go alone talk to Ralf This is the cheapest way to go – about K20 per

less reserved with foreigners. A lot depends
on who you meet and how receptive they are
to an unannounced guest.
Bear in mind that you can’t just pitch a
tent on some deserted stretch of the river. Not
only is this unsafe but like all land in Papua
more frequent.
MAF Wewak flies twice weekly to air-
strips at Amboin on the Karawari River and
Ambunti (K260). Scheduled flights no longer
call at Angoram. The airstrip is overgrown
and not in use.
Stüttgen (p181) or Alois Mateos in the Sepik
Surfsite Lodge (p181) before leaving.
If you decide to either paddle yourself or
catch passing canoes you will need to have
plenty of time and be well prepared and pro-
visioned. Both have the distinct chance of
THE SEPIK
hour – but you might be stuck somewhere for
a few days before you can get a lift. There is
very little traffic on the weekend.
Catching canoes to and from the major
transport hubs of Pagwi, Timbunke and
Angoram is relatively easy. There are often
 192 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r a v e l o n t h e S e p i k
boats travelling to meet the buses arriving
from Wewak and a canoe ride from Pagwi to
Ambunti takes about two hours, depending
on the outboard’s horsepower and how loaded
down the boat is with passengers and freight.
Guide & Boat Hire
There’s nothing quite like cruising along the
river sitting below the waterline in the bot-
tom of a 20m dugout watching the world
slip by and this is perhaps the best option
for independent travellers. You have the
peace of mind knowing that your guide
will find you a place to stay, arrange some
food and show you the things that you have
come to see along with the added security of
reliable transport.
Ultimately the success of the trip will de-
pend on the quality of the guide and the reli-
ability of the boat. Because the expense of
the guide and boat can be split it’s cheaper to
travel in a small group.
GUIDES
Since finding a reliable guide is paramount to
an enjoyable trip, every effort should be made
to establish contact before your arrival on
the Sepik. This is sometimes easier said than
done. Local guides seldom promote them-
selves, have no telephones or email addresses
and invariably live in remote villages without
a postal address.
It is worth asking for recommendations
from other travellers and checking travel re-
ports online at Lonely Planet’s ‘Thorn Tree’
forum (www.lonelyplanet.com). Wewak hotel
operators (p181) such as Ralf Stüttgen, Alois
Mateos in the Sepik Surfsite Lodge and the
staff at the Airport Lodge and Windjammer
hotels may be able to offer sound advice. Help
Resources (p179) is worth emailing directly
as it is often in contact with local guides and
can pass on a message. If you can’t make prior
contact, then plan on spending a couple of
days in Wewak, Angoram, Ambunti or Pagwi
talking to locals.
A good guide should have an extensive net-
work of local accommodation options, know
the river and be able to accurately estimate
THE SEPIK
travelling times and fuel costs. The going rate
is anything from K50 to K80 per day and
you’ll need to pay your guide’s PMV fares and
accommodation costs in the villages.
Guides currently operating include the
following:
lonelyplanet.com
Ambunti-based guides Travellers have recommended
Ronny Kospi, Alpones Mava, Henry Apina, Cosby Marek,
Toby Wadi, Yunias Tobyas, Albert Yombgos (Masanombok
Camp) and Johowes Teven (%858 5124). Aldonus Mana
(upstream from Ambunti at Japandai) and Kowspi Marek,
can be reached through the Ambunti Akedemi in Ambunti.
Angoram-based guides Elijah Saun and Cletus Maiban
both offer accommodation and motor-canoe trips. They
can be contacted at the Service Camp, a little upstream
from Angoram.
Chris Karis (%856 1584, 698 4651) Based in Wewak
and operating out of the Airport Lodge (p182), Chris is
another top guide.
Joseph Konai (%856 2395; fax 858 5108; joeseph
ykone@yahoo.com.au) He is a wry little fellow and one of
the best guides in the area. Based in Ambunti and a friend
of Ralf Stüttgen’s (p181), Joseph can arrange anything
from a day trip to a two-week expedition. For adventurers
he organises raft trips down the April River and canoes for
self-paddlers. Depending on variables and group size you
can expect to pay around K200 per person per day which
includes his guiding service, the canoe hire, the captain’s
fee, fuel, kerosene stoves, pots and cooking utensils.
Recommended.
Steven Buku (%856 1956) From Yenchenmangua but
often to be found in Nuiko settlement outside of Wewak
is another of the Sepik’s most professional guides. He’s
also sometimes contactable via the Windjammer Hotel in
Wewak (p182). His uncle, Lawrence Buku of Indabu village
also comes recommended.
Tambanum-based guides Henry Ganwa is
recommended.
Wewak-based guides Robert Ulgu (%856 1127,
696 8943) Cyril Tara (sepikarts@yahoo.com.au) lives in
Kaminabit but is in Wewak and Kaua Gita regularly.
BOATS
Your guide will be able to help you hire a
canoe (with an outboard) at a reasonable
price and know how much fuel to buy. You
can hire motor-canoes in Ambunti, Pagwi
and Angoram.
Once you’ve accepted that the dugout
motor-canoes (pronounced car-noo), won’t
tip over rounding a corner you’ll find the ride
very relaxing. It takes hours getting anywhere
and the experience is quite calming and medi-
tative. Even the buzz of the outboard motor
seems to fade after a while.
Figure on K150 to K200 per day to hire a
motor-canoe and pilot, about K150 per day
(or more) in fuel. The fuel is the largest single
contributor to the cost of the trip. Buy your
fuel in Angoram or Pagwi because it costs a lot
more on the river. Just like back home, the cost
lonelyplanet.com
of fuel affects the price of most things on the
river and varies with the rise and fall of world
oil prices. A 44-gallon drum of petrol was
K800 at the time of research. Ouch! Travelling
during the dry season is more expensive as
various shortcuts are closed when the water
level falls. A small, light canoe (15m or so)
with a 15HP to 30HP motor is more eco-
nomical than a larger heavier boat. You could
expect to use one 44-gallon drum of fuel in a
three-day tour, two drums in a five-day tour,
depending of course on how far you travel.
If you charter a canoe you also have to pay
for the driver to return to his base, whether
you go or not. It’s cheaper to travel down-
stream as the consumption is reduced. At a
leisurely pace you could travel from Ambunti
to Angoram in five days.
Bearing in mind that various factors can
have an influence on the time taken, travel-
ling downstream in a large canoe takes about
1½ hours from Ambunti to Pagwi, about six
hours from Pagwi to Timbunke, and five
hours from Timbunke to Angoram. Add at
least 30% going upstream.
Taking a Tour
This is the easiest, most luxurious and ex-
pensive way to see the Sepik. Most people
prearrange their Sepik itinerary with either a
major inbound tour operator (p311), or one
of the smaller Wewak-based tour companies
(p319). This latter option is perhaps the best
way to go, but give operators a few weeks to
make arrangements.
Prices vary wildly, from local operators
such as Sepik Adventure Tours (p181) based
in Wewak to cruises on the Sepik Spirit run
by Trans Niugini Tours (p165).
The Sepik Spirit (%542 1438; Mt Hagen; www
.pngtours.com; 3-day package per person all-inclusive s/tw
US$2585/1739) is a rather odd-looking vessel with
its large, square, glass-covered front. It con-
tains nine rooms, each with their own toilet
and shower as well as a communal lounge and
bar area. The boat doesn’t travel quickly so
guests board faster, smaller craft to explore the
villages, returning each afternoon to overnight
on the mother boat.
UPPER SEPIK
Above Ambunti, the villages are smaller and
more spread out. The people are friendly and
hospitable and have had less contact with
Western tourists. Many villagers have no real
T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • U p p e r S e p i k 193
understanding of the value of money, so prices
can be erratic.
There’s not the same concentration of artis-
tic skills that you find on the Middle Sepik, but
nature lovers will find this the most exciting
part of the river. From Ambunti the river nar-
rows and the land it flows through becomes
hilly with denser vegetation. In many areas,
trees grow right down to the water’s edge.
There are few villages after Yessan and
there is a long uninhabited stretch between
Tipas and Mowi. The Upper Sepik is more
isolated than the Middle Sepik, because there
are no roads, so a visit requires detailed
planning. Villages around here tend to move
and there are lots of deserted settlements.
Green River
This is a subdistrict station, close to the Sepik
River in Sandaun (West Sepik) Province, due
south of Vanimo and very close to the West
Papuan border. It’s about a three-hour walk
to the river but there is a road and you may
get a lift. There are also links to Telefomin
and Oksapmin.
Swagup
Well off the main stream, east of the April
River, Swagup is the home of the ‘insect cult’
people. Their unique art usually incorporates
the figure of a dragonfly, sago beetle, pray-
ing mantis or other insects. The ferocious
reputation these people earned in former
times continues.
Maio & Yessan
The people here have a yam cult but they
have been heavily influenced by missionar-
ies. This area is quite swampy and marshy.
Maliwai
This village is on a small lake off the river.
The Waskuk people invest spiritual power
in cassowaries and these flightless birds are
carved into most things, regardless of func-
tion. It used to be customary in this village
to cut off a finger joint when there was a
death in the family. The spirit house here
has collapsed and most artefacts are housed
THE SEPIK
within people’s homes. Ask for Joseph
Apaiet who might put you up.
Yambon
Not far from Ambunti, Yambon is home to
approximately a thousand Manabu-speaking
 194 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • M i d d l e S e p i k Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • M i d d l e S e p i k 195

people and strung along the shore for some Pagwi

distance. There is a Catholic Mission here
but no place to stay.
Ambunti
Ambunti is an administrative centre of no
great interest but there is an airstrip, police
outpost, very basic clinic and a couple of re-
liable people who hire motor-canoes, so this
is one of the best places to start a trip.
The inaugural two-day Crocodile Festival
(contact Lydia Kaia; % 320 0149; lkaia@wwfpacific.org
.pg), sponsored by WWF Papua New Guinea,
kicked off here in March 2007 and was a
great success. Ten cultural groups from vari-
ous Sepik Basin villages performed with the
aim of promoting community tourism and
crocodile conservation.
SLEEPING
Because Ambunti gets a trickle of visitors
there are various people prepared to ac-
commodate you in their houses – you’ll be
expected to pay.
Ambunti Catholic Mission (per person K25) Ask
the boat driver to drop you here at the bend
of the river just before Ambunti Lodge. It
can sometimes provide meals but bring
emergency rations just in case.
Ambunti Lodge (%856 1516; www.ambuntilodge
-sepiktour.com.pg; r K156; a ) Has seven dou-
ble rooms and two common bathrooms
and its own generators to run the air-con.
Grilled pork chop or chicken meals (K27)
are served with rice and cabbage. This
lodge mainly caters to the clients of Sepik
Adventure Tours (p181) but it is possi-
ble to stay here if it has rooms available.
By Sepik standards it’s quite comfortable.
Staff can arrange half- and full-day tours
although you should be able to arrange
things more cheaply if you contact the boat
owners directly.
MIDDLE SEPIK
This region starts just below Ambunti and
finishes at Tambanum. This area is regarded
as the ‘cultural treasure house’ of PNG.
THE SEPIK
Down the road from Hayfield, Pagwi is the
most important access point to the Middle
Sepik. There is little of interest in Pagwi, and
despite its vital role it’s rather an ugly little
place – some rundown government build-
ings and trade stores where you can buy
basic supplies.
You can hire motor-canoes here but be
mindful that there are some rogues. Day trips
to Korogo, Aibom, Palambei, Yentchen and
Kanganaman are all interesting and within
reach. It’s six hours to Timbunke and another
five to Angoram. At a leisurely pace, stopping
and taking side trips, you could take five or six
days to get down to Angoram where you can
get a PMV back to Wewak.
Pagwi has a rough reputation so avoid
staying here if you can. A two-minute walk
upriver brings you to the Catholic Mission
with basic beds with nets (K25). The deacon
is happy to boil water for your noodles.
Korogo
Korogo has an impressive haus tambaran
with a pair of carved eagles at either end
of the roof. Local myth tells of two young
women who, while fishing, attracted the las-
civious attentions of the Crocodile Spirit. The
spirit caused a flood, forcing the girls from
their homes and into his waiting jaws. One
sister was eaten; the other captured and duly
married. The union produced two eggs from
which eagles, not crocodiles, hatched.
There’s a pleasant two-hour walk inland
to the village of Yamok, home to the Sowas
tribe who travellers report have recently
built two haus tambarans. You can also take
a canoe to Palenqaui and walk from there
(40 minutes).
The Korogo guesthouse has collapsed so if
you can’t get someone to stay with you’ll have
to move on. Korogo is 30 minutes by motor-
boat from Pagwi, half a day paddling.
Suapmeri
Variously spelt as Swatmeri and Sotmeri,
Suapmeri is famous for its mosquitoes. There
are few carvings for sale, although the village
HAUS TAMBARAN
Tambaran is a spirit, so the haus tambaran is the house where spirits live, inhabiting sacred carvings
and tambu (forbidden or sacred) objects. Haus tambarans are often referred to as ‘spirit houses’ or
‘men’s houses’ because only initiated men (and tourists) are allowed to enter. Although Western
women are usually allowed inside, times have not changed for village women.
Every clan has a spirit house and they are still very much the centre of local life. Men lounge
around in the shade underneath the building, carving, talking or sleeping. Across the Sepik area
young male initiates remain up to nine months in the upstairs section of the haus tambaran while
they prepare for (and often recuperate from) initiation rites, and in this period they often cannot
look at a woman until they are reborn as men. The haus tambaran is universally a female symbol:
its entrance is sometimes vaginal in shape, yet everything about haus tambarans and what goes
on in them is secret men’s business and tambu to women.
Haus tambarans vary in style but can be up to 50m long, 30m high and extremely intricate.
James can arrange a guide through the on the bank. It’s a hot 20-minute walk
Chambri Lakes and along the weed-filled along a baret (which is empty in the dry
barets (artificial channels) – you can take a season), but it is worth the effort because
shortcut to Kaminabit if the water isn’t too the village is beautiful. Built around sev-
low. Suapmeri is half an hour from Korogo eral small lagoons full of flowering water
by motor-canoe. To Aibom in the Chambri lilies, the village has two impressive haus
Lakes it’s 1½ hours by motor-canoe. tambarans (K5 entrance fee) at either end
of a ceremonial green. The remains of a
Indabu third haus tambaran can also be seen. It
This is a good place to buy carvings and was bombed by the Japanese in WWII and
bilums and you can stay with local people. all that remains are the large upright posts,
two of which have sprouted.
Yentchen Inside the spirit house ask to see the chair
The two-storey haus tambaran here was cop- that houses the village spirit but don’t pho-
ied from photographs taken at the turn of the tograph it. Downstairs are eight fires bor-
century by German explorers of the building dered by eight benches, one for each of the
standing at that time. The top floor is only for eight clans in the village.
initiates, who climb upstairs between the legs Stones, which must have been carried
of a female fertility symbol and are blessed many kilometres, have been set up in the
in the process. Sadly the building has fallen glade. Locals are great garamut (drum made
into disrepair and there are plans to move the from a hollowed log) players and you might
artefacts into the half-built structure behind see some beating out their powerful and
the haus tambaran and out of the sight of complex rhythms (K10). The village women
the women. make the best bilums on the river and there
Yentchen is noted for its wickerwork danc- are also many carvings for sale here.
ing costumes – figures of crocodiles, pigs, cas- Palambei is 1½ hours from Suapmeri by
sowaries and two-headed men. Male initiates motor-canoe.
have their skin cut into ‘crocodile skin’ (see
p197) around Christmas. The ceremony is Kanganaman
open to foreigners (K150 per person) but be A brief walk from the river, this village is
very respectful. famous for the oldest haus tambaran on the
Yentchen is 2½ hours by motor-canoe from river. Declared a building of national cultural
Pagwi and it is possible to stay with local Jacob importance, it has been renovated with help

Almost every village had a distinct artistic
style, but these styles are now merging. The
whole Middle Sepik region is interesting but
the largest concentration of villages is just
below Pagwi and it’s possible to visit several
on a day trip.
was famed for its orator’s stools. Despite this,
it’s an attractive village and the entrance to
the Chambri Lakes. You may be able to stay
with the family of James Yesinduma. James
knows everyone who lives on the river and
speaks English.
Kambak (K25).
Palambei
You can’t see Palambei village proper from
the river and it’s easy to miss – there are
a few huts and there may be some canoes
THE SEPIK
from the National Museum and is interest-
ing to visit (K5). It is a huge building with
enormous carved posts.
The village guesthouse costs K25 and
you will need to bring your own food and
mosquito nets.
 196 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • M i d d l e S e p i k
MIDDLE & LOWER SEPIK
To Hayfield
Pagwi
er
Riv Japanaut
ik
Avatip Japandai Kandangai
Sep
Ambunti
Malu
Yambon
Yigei
Kaminabit
The haus tambaran here is in fairly good con-
dition and it is possible to climb to the second
floor (K10) to view the painted beams and
rafters. Skin-cutting ceremonies (opposite)
are held here about once every two years dur-
ing which ancestral skulls are placed in the
two large drums. The men will play these ga-
ramut for K10. Carvings are also sold.
Kaminabit is divided into three villages
and it is a few minutes’ walk between each.
There is a large, well-maintained Catholic
church in the middle village, with three
wings (one for each village) radiating from
the central pulpit.
Local families offer accommodation – ask
for Emanuel Yakawi or William Pekul. James
Minja, Anton Bob, Dominic and Francesca and
their families have also been recommended.
From Aibom it takes one hour to get here
THE SEPIK
by motor-canoe, and from Palambei it’s 1½
hours by motor-canoe.
Mindimbit
The village is near the junction of the
Karawari and Korosameri Rivers. The
lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • L o w e r S e p i k 197
0 20 km can be provided and tours can be organised.
0 12 miles
Contact Aloise Mateos in Wewak.
To Wewak To Wewak
Yenchenmangua
Yamok Angoram
LOWER SEPIK
Korogo Na
gam
The Lower Sepik starts at Tambanum and
Riv Moim
runs down to the coast. Angoram is the most
er
er
Keram Riv
Yentchen
Sepik River important town on the Sepik. The Marienberg
Indabu
Suapmeri Kanganaman Timbunke
Mission station, which has been operated by
Palambei
Aibom
Kambaramba
the Catholics for many years, is about two
Tambanum
hours downstream from Angoram.
Chambri
Lakes Wombun Near the mouth of the river, the Murik
Yuat
Kaminabit
Mindimbit
Lakes are vast semi-flooded swamplands, nar-
Chambri
rowly separated from the coast. Villages along
Wom
this part of the Sepik are smaller, poorer and
generally have had less Western contact than
River
many in the Middle Sepik.
The vast volume of water and silt coming
Ka
Mameri
raw
Sangriman down means that the landscape around the
ari
Samban
mouth of the Sepik changes rapidly. Many
r
ve
River
Ri
eri
villages here are only a few generations old,
am built on new land.
ros
Ko Blackwater
Lakes
Yamen
Govermas
Amboin
Angoram
Anganmai
Maramba
This is the oldest and largest Sepik station. It
Mariama Kundamam
Lake Karawari Lodge
was established by the Germans before WWII
Govermas
and is now a sleepy administrative centre for
Chimbut the Lower and Middle Sepik regions. Now,
Yimas
Angoram’s population is falling and it’s a town
in decline – there has been no mains power
Korosameri leads to the beautiful Blackwater lived here for an extended time. From in Angoram for 18 years despite the presence
Lakes region. Mindimbit is entirely depend- Timbunke, Tambanum is about 30 minutes of power poles and cables. There used to be
ent on carving and there is some nice work, by motor-canoe. banks and businesses, a hospital and airstrip.
though there is no proper haus tambaran. The New Tambanum Lodge (%856 2525) is now Apparently this used to be a pretty swinging
You can stay with a friendly family – ask in poor condition. The guesthouse is situated place in the colonial days with dances and
for Peter Bai. 600m from the bank. There are six double parties – it’s hard to imagine now.
rooms with shared kitchen and bathroom If you haven’t got a lot of time to spend but
Timbunke facilities and a separate septic toilet. Meals you want to see some of the Sepik, Angoram
This is a large village with a big Catholic
mission, a hospital and a number of other
Western-style buildings. There are also some SCAR TISSUE Nancy Sullivan
impressive houses.
The first time I saw an initiated Iatmul man on the Sepik was in 1988. He was a guide on my first
Trans Niugini’s Sepik Spirit calls in here
canoe trip through the region and I couldn’t take my eyes off the bands of gnarly hard welts
which is why there’s a good range of ar-
running down his shoulders and shirtless back. Years later, in the Nambaraman spirit house,
tefacts and carvings for sale. People have
I witnessed how he must have received such grizzly scars.
had problems trying to find somewhere
On that day I saw a group of young men, under the guidance of their mother’s brothers, pass
to stay in Timbunke though, and the mis-
from youth to men, androgyny to manhood. All the initiates had their backs cut by their uncles
sion is not helpful. Ask a local about
that day, symbolically bleeding out their mother’s postpartum blood and spilling it onto their
accommodation options.
mother’s line; ‘making’ them into men for their fathers’ clan. The uncles cradled their nephews
THE SEPIK
on their laps as the gruesome scars were quickly and professionally cut. Tigaso tree oil and cool-
Tambanum ing white clay were applied and the boys were then made to lie down by smoky fires to slowly
This is the largest village on the Middle infect their wounds and produce the knobbly, keloid scars that make their skin resemble that
Sepik and fine, large houses are strung of a crocodile’s. It was during this ordeal, as the flutes and kundu drums played to confuse the
along the bank for quite a distance. women waiting outside, I finally ‘got’ what it meant to cut skin.
The people here are renowned carvers. Nancy Sullivan (www.nancysullivan.org), Papua New Guinea anthropologist
American anthropologist Margaret Mead
 © Lonely Planet Publications
198 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r i b u t a r i e s & L a k e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r i b u t a r i e s & L a k e s 199

is the place to come to. It’s accessible by road
from Wewak (p190) and there are beautiful
and interesting places just a few hours away
by motor-canoe.
There are a couple of reputable guides near
Angoram. Elijah Saun and Cletus Maiban both
offer accommodation and motor-canoe trips.
They can be contacted at the Service Camp, a
little upstream from Angoram.
Elijah’s house adjoins his carving work-
shop on the riverbank. Mattresses, pillows,
linen and mosquito nets can be provided.
Cletus’s house is a bit further upstream.
There are various other people in nearby
Angoram who will provide travellers with
informal accommodation.
The Angoram Hotel (%858 3011; s K100; a),
owned by Joe Kenni, a local bigman and poli-
tician, is in a pretty bad way – run down and
closed a lot of the time; very few people stay
here. The rooms have air-con but only when
the generator is running. Joe also runs tours
and can recommend guides.
Around Angoram
A good day trip is to go south on the Keram
River to Kambot, stopping at either Magendo or
Chimondo on the way. These villages produce
fantastic art – Kambot is the home to the
Sepik storyboards. The river is narrow and
winding, and the banks are crowded with lux-
uriant growth and ibis. There’s informal ac-
commodation at the culture house in Kambot.
Further south on the Keram is Yip, and a beau-
tiful rainforest with plenty of birds.
Another day trip from Angoram goes to
Moim and Kambaramba and some beautiful la-
goons. Further south on a tributary is Wom.
The Murik Lakes are about four hours away and
there’s accommodation in Mendam.
TRIBUTARIES & LAKES
The Sepik River becomes monotonous as it
winds through its vast, flat plain, with pitpit
up to the water’s edge. The most spectacular
scenery is on the tributaries and the villages
are generally smaller, friendlier and less vis-
ited. There are three main accessible tributar-
ies in the Lower Sepik – the Keram, the Yuat
THE SEPIK
sible to begin a river trip at this point. Villages
in this area are very rarely visited and there
are unresolved hostilities between clans. Seek
advice before heading off from May River.
April (Wara) River & Wogamush
River Area
Life on these tributaries continues in a more
traditional manner, with initiation rites and
various social taboos and systems still intact.
Both areas are good for bird-watching. There
are villages at regular intervals.
Wasui Lagoon
Also known as Wagu Lagoon, this is a beau-
tiful place, with many birds. The Hunstein
Range is behind Wagu village and the area is
covered in lush rainforest. Wagu is cut off
during the dry season when lake levels drop.
Kaku Yamzu (Mathew) operates the Toheyo
Guesthouse (per person K25), a simple stilt house
where you can sling your mosquito net and
unfurl your sleeping mat. Bring your own
food. Mathew’s tours include trips to see the
bird-of-paradise display tree (K15), fishing
(K5) and crocodile spotting at night (K10).
Chambri Lakes
The Chambri Lakes are a vast and beautiful
expanse of shallow water. Being only 4m deep,
they partially empty in the dry season when
things get smelly and the water is unfit for
drinking unless treated. The area was once
a fortress of floating weed-islands but these
have been eaten by the voracious pacu (p177),
an introduced South American fish.
Indabu is one of the four villages that make
up Chambri region. There is a haus tambaran
here with a huge collection of carvings in the
polished Chambri style, as well as ornamental
spears. Aibom, another village on the lakes,
produces pottery and has a large stone said
to be that of a woman who turned to stone
resisting a snake who was trying to drag her
into the water.
With the help of French anthropologist
Nicolas Garnier and international funding,
there is a new haus tambaran in Wombun.
The four main totems here are eagles, flying
deepest route connects the lake with the Sepik
just above Kaminabit. There’s another passage
via Suapmeri and another via Kandangai.
From Suapmeri to Aibom takes 1½ hours by
motor-canoe. From Aibom to Kaminabit takes
another hour by motor-canoe. There are village
boats to Kandangai from Pagwi most days.
Karawari River
The Karawari runs into the Korosameri
(which drains the Blackwater Lakes) and then
into the Sepik just near Mindimbit. Initially
the banks are crowded with pitpit. But jun-
gle soon takes over and the river becomes
more interesting, with abundant bird life and
attractive villages.
Amboin
Amboin is usually reached by air and from
the village it’s a short distance up the river
to the luxurious Karawari Lodge. The lodge
river trucks will take you to nearby villages
such as Maramba, Marvwak and Chimbut
where traditional Sepik-style tree houses are
still used. There are also tours that travel as
far as Kaminabit and some that stay in the
villages. Singsings and re-enactments of the
Mangamai skin-cutting ceremonies are all
part of the deal. Special tours for bird-watch-
ers to the Yimas Lakes can be organised.
The Karawari Lodge (%542 1438 Mt Hagen; www
.pngtours.com; per person all-inclusive s/tw US$499/402)
is a luxury base, operated by Trans Niugini
Tours, for exploring the Sepik near Amboin.
The main building, built in the style of a haus
tambaran with impressive carved totem poles
and stools, is surrounded by 20 mosquito-
proofed bungalows. The lodge has dramatic
views across the Karawari River and a vast sea
of jungle. Tourists are flown in as part of a
larger itinerary and it’s possible to opt to stay
at nearby villages (far less luxurious). Like all
of Trans Niugini operations, it’s cheaper to
come to here on a package.
Mameri
About 40 minutes by motor-canoe from
Mindimbit and just before the turn-off to the
Blackwater Lakes, Mameri is known for its
accomplished and dramatic carving.
Blackwater Lakes
To enter the Blackwater Lakes is to enter
a vast water world where villages are often
built on stilts and the people pole their canoes
through shallow, reed-clogged lakes. The bird
life is incredible.
As you get higher, away from the Sepik,
the climate is cooler and the scenery becomes
more spectacular.
Govermas
A place of ‘dreamlike beauty’, Govermas
also has one of the most impressive haus
tambarans in the region and some excellent
carving. It’s about one hour by motor-canoe
from Mameri. If you get as far as this, it’s
worth going on to see Lake Govermas and the
village of Anganmai, on top of a hill. Lake
Govermas is surrounded by low hills, moun-
tains, dense forest and three beautiful vil-
lages. On a tributary at the very south of
Lake Govermas is Mariama which has a good
haus tambaran.

and the smaller Nagam.
May (Iwa) River
This is a small town more than halfway from
Ambunti to the West Papuan border. There’s
an airstrip and a mission settlement. It’s pos-
foxes, rats and crocodiles. Although there is
no guesthouse many guides bring tourists
here to stay with their wantoks.
When the water is deep enough there are
various routes and shortcuts to Chambri al-
though you’ll need a guide to find them. The
THE SEPIK
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GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
© Lonely Planet Publications
200 lonelyplanet.com
Gulf & Western History
The coastal people of the Gulf traded sago for
pottery brought by Motuans from the Port
Provinces Moresby area for centuries. Less harmonious
relations existed with the fierce Anga people,
who live in the hills behind the coastal swamp-
land. The Anga had a taste for human flesh,
but haven’t pursued head-hunting seriously
since the last major raid at Ipisi, near Kerema,
Rain drenched, sparsely populated and frighteningly remote, the Gulf and Western Provinces
before WWII. Their proximity to the sea also
are the Wild West of PNG. A vast and mangrove-pocked coastline arches around the Gulf made the coastal people targets of the London
of Papua from one isolated community to the next. Inland the rich wetlands and seasonally Missionary Society ‘soul hunters’, who arrived
flooded grasslands eventually give rise to the foothills and mountains of the Highlands. in the early 1880s.
In 1842 French Dumont d’Urville charted
Locals hardy enough to survive the thriving population of malarial mosquitoes and end- the western side of the Gulf of Papua in HMS
less meals of sago get around by foot, canoe and small plane. There is barely a sealed road Fly, discovering the Fly River. In 1876 ruthless
Italian explorer Luigi d’Albertis steamed over
to be found, and roads of any description are rare. Because of this limited infrastructure,
900km up the Fly, terrifying any dangerous-
few travellers reach the area and even fewer do so independently. Those that do seldom looking villagers with fireworks and returning
venture far beyond the sleepy provincial capitals of Kerema and Daru, which attract a small, with a huge collection of botanical specimens,
but growing, trickle of nature enthusiasts. insects, artefacts and even painted skulls from
village haus tambarans (spirit houses).
In the forests and riverside wetlands around Kiunga and Tabubil, adventurers are discover- In 1901 the Scottish Reverend James
ing a dizzying array of some of the island’s most exotic birds. Similarly, two of the country’s Chalmers and 12 companions had their skulls
greatest rivers, the Fly and the Strickland, along with Tonda Wildlife Management Area, are crushed with stone clubs when they attempted
to bring the word of God to Goaribari Island
receiving rave reviews from fishermen with the resources and tenacity to get there.
on the Gulf of Papua. Chalmers and co might
have seemed like a gift from the gods to the
In the remote northwest corner of Western Province, the Ok Tedi Mine is of major eco-
protein-starved villagers, but 24 of them soon
nomic importance to Papua New Guinea, and subject to considerable litigation by traditional paid the price when they were killed by the
landowners who are concerned about environmental degradation and the validity of royalty crew of the Merrie England, sent from Port
payment calculations. Moresby in the name of justice.
Charles Karius and Ivan Champion set out to
In a country often considered the last frontier for adventure seeking travellers, it is only fitting travel up the Fly River from Daru in 1927, cross
that these provinces have the final word in the Papua New Guinea section of this book. the central mountains and go down the Sepik to
the north coast. Their first attempt failed, but a
year later they completed the journey.
HIGHLIGHTS
Geography
„ Hooking up with Samuel Kepuknai in The Fly River starts high in the mountains and
Tabubil
Kiunga (p206) and heading into the cloud turns southeast towards the sea and a huge,
forests and the secret leks of the birds of island-filled delta. The Strickland River joins
paradise Kiunga the Fly about 240km from the coast. Villages
„ Knowing you are the first Westerner for are usually some distance from the river to
many years to canoe to Kaintiba (p204) and avoid flooding, and the Fly flows through
Kaintiba
visit traditional villages near Kerema (p202) 250,000 sq km of wetland where countless
on foot mosquitoes are the only welcoming party.
Kerema
From the mouth of the Fly east to the
„ Watching birds and fishing for barramundi
Purari River, the Gulf of Papua is a succes-
at Bensbach (p208), one of the most remote Bensbach sion of river deltas, backed by mangrove
places in the country Daru
swamps running up to 60km inland.
„ Buying the local mud crab at Daru (p205)
and having it cooked for you that night Culture
Villages were traditionally centred around
„ POPULATION: 260,200 „ AREA: 133,800 SQ KM the dobu, a longhouse in which weapons,
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
G U L F P R O V I N C E 201
important artefacts, ceremonial objects and
the skulls of enemies were stored. While
men slept inside, women slept in smaller
individual huts outside.
The dobus were veritable museums of tra-
ditional art, and seven distinct artistic styles
have been categorised from the mouth of the
Fly around to Kerema. There are no ‘fully
furnished’ spirit houses left, but you can
find figures, bullroarers, kovaves (conical
ceremonial masks), headrests, masks, skull
racks (every home should have one) and
gope boards, which are elliptical in shape,
rather like a shield, and incised with brightly
coloured abstract patterns or stylised figures.
Warriors were entitled to have a gope board
for each act of bravery or to celebrate each
successful conflict.
The Gulf people have been bombarded
with Christianity for nearly a century and
many traditions have been lost, including
cannibalism. While eating flesh had ritual
and religious importance, it is also possible
that it was provoked by endemic protein
deficiency in the area. The main food today
is sago: the tasteless, starchy food from the
pith of the sago palm. There is no shortage
of sago, so nobody starves, but severe pro-
tein deficiencies remain a problem.
Getting There & Around
The most notable thing about the roads –
there aren’t any. Apart from the Hiritano
Hwy to Kerema, and the Tabubil–Kiunga
road (maintained by Ok Tedi mine), most
transport is by air. The Southern Highlands
Gulf Hwy will connect Mendi to Kikori
sometime in 2008. Be one of the first to
travel it, exploring seldom-visited villages
as you go.
Pacific Frontline Trading (%321 7204, 321 7990 in
Port Moresby) operates a monthly boat that calls
into most Gulf and Western province ports
including Kerema, Kikori and Daru but find-
ing reliable departure dates is difficult.
GULF PROVINCE
Gulf is the country’s least-visited province,
which in many ways is its most appealing
aspect. There is virtually zero tourist infra-
structure and it is impossible to avoid the ‘real’
PNG. Getting around is an endurance test in
itself and there’s little respite at the end of the
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES

GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES

202 G U L F P R O V I N C E • • K e re m a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G U L F P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d G u l f P r o v i n c e 203

GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES 0

0
100 km
60 miles
Getting There & Around
Ok Tedi Mine Telefomin SANDAUN
Bad weather causes frequent flight disruptions
B i Madang
Tabubil V ic t o (WEST SEPIK)
r Em sm BISMARCK SEA and cancellations and, much to the locals’ dis-
Ok a n ue l PROVINCE Lake a Ra
mu Long I may, the airlines refuse to carry betel nut.
Ran Kopiago r Cape Rigny
ge Baiyer River c
Te

Mt Faium k Airlines PNG (%648 1251) flies between Port

Ri
Hi Fin Bogadjim
di i ver

Mu gh Wabag

ver
(3353m) Usino i st
WESTERN Mt Wilhelm
R

ENGA Saidor
ll
er
la
nd
s
Porgera
PROVINCE HIGHLANDS (4509m) er
re Moresby and Kerema (K459) daily except
er
Koroba
Hw
PROVINCE R MADANG PROVINCE Ra
n
Sunday. Flights continue to Balimo (K574,
Riv y a ge

Ra
Ningerum Mt Karoma Tari
(3623m) Highlands n Monday and Friday), Kikori (K390, daily

ng
Hw g
Fly

Mt Hagen
r
y e Teptep except Sunday), Daru (K571, Monday and

e
e Goroka
Strickland Riv
Ekame SOUTHERN Kundiawa Chauve
Kiunga Lodge
aR HIGHLANDS Nipa Mendi
Watarais Friday), Mt Hagen (K541, Thursday) and
ar d River

ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊ ᎊ ᎊᎊ
El
ev
No
ma
PROVINCE Gumine MOROBE Kiunga (via Lake Murray, Obo and Suki on

W
Kar SIMBU PROVINCE

ag
Henganofi
Nomad Poroma
Saturday). At the time of research Airlines

a
Moro Uma PROVINCE

Ri

Ma
Ra
er

EASTERN HIGHLANDS
r

ve
mu
ive

Great
PNG had indefinitely suspended many serv-
Riv

rkh
Mt Bosavi Lake PROVINCE
Kaim R

Papuan Hw

am
(2397m) Kutubu Pimaga y
ices to smaller airstrips; however, it may be
Fly

Plateau Rive
Leo r
nar er erNadzab
Lake Kaim dM Ri
v
Mt Tabletop Riv Airport worth enquiring about flights if you are of
Lae

tut
Lake Murray ur re
ra Au Wonenara (3686m) the Indiana Jones ilk.

Wa
y Ki Mt Murray
Ra ko

ᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊ ᎊ ᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ
ng
es
ri
Ri
(2254m)
ver Ke re r u
MOROBE North Coast Aviation (%648 1230) flies three
PROVINCE
Gu

Lake Murray Ra
Tu times a week from Kerema to Lae (K417) via
Wawa

Patrol Post GULF PROVINCE ng Watama

av

Pangona ram Black Cat

e
i

Track
aR
ive ve
r
Menyamya
Aseki
Bulolo
Kamina (K171), Kaintiba (K204), Kanabea
i River

Ri Wau
Riv

r
Kanabea
Kaintiba (K204) and Menyamya (K252) although
er

Edie Creek

Era

Track
Kikori Kamina
Hidden Valley Black Cat the exact route varies with who wants to get
INDONESIA

Baimuru

Pu
WESTERN PROVINCE

Vailala
Mine
off where.

rar

og
lld
iR
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ ᎊᎊᎊᎊ
Hevi Lift (%648 1230) also operates a Monday
Ar

Bu
Mt Lawson

ive

River
am

Blackwood I (2722m)

r
Fly Tekadu
flight to and from Moresby and Kikori, and a
i

Ri Ihu
a

ve Riv Goaribari I Bulldog

er Morigio I Kakoro
r Murua
Wednesday flight to Mt Hagen which returns

u
Maclatchie Mt Strong

ver am
Lake Balimo Point Kerema (3588m) to Kerema on Thursday.

Ri akek
Saru Bell Point Malalaua CENTRAL
Naviu I Uapumba I PMVs travel the Hiritano Hwy (p84) on

L
Kukipi PROVINCE
Goe
Dibiri I Iokea
Olapu
Mt Yule a good year between Port Moresby’s Erima
Wabudu I (3276m)

ᎊ ᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ ᎊᎊ
Botar
Purutu I bus stop and Kerema (five hours, daily). The
M
or road, however, is in dire need of some TLC
Ben

eh
ea Buk
and currently vehicles are only able to get
s

dR Kiwai I Gulf of Papua Bereina

bac

ive Kapal
h

Ri
Weam
r
Samari I Yule I Agivairu as far as Malalaua (K20, four hours), from
Mibu I Hi
ve
r Morehead
Arufe
rit
an where you will have to catch a dinghy (K50,
o wy
Bensbach
Sibidiri
Parama I Cape
Suckling
H two hours). Don’t risk travelling in stormy
Daru Hisiu
Bullo Bristow I weather, and be sure to pick up some mud
Daru I crabs at the mouth of the river before crossing
Torres Strait Boigu I the bay to Kerema.
day; village or mission food and accommoda- journey into the interior, however, it does invaluable information on the surrounding AROUND GULF PROVINCE
tion are pretty much it. have a useful couple of trade stores, including areas; they can also contact other Catholic The vast mangrove swamps and mountains
Ning’s Trading (%648 1061), a Bank South Pacific lodges and link you with locals who can act are the main attraction of the Gulf Province.
KEREMA (%648 1025) that can cash travellers cheques as guides. You can take any direction and go from vil-
Kerema may be the provincial capital and and (if the telephone lines are operational) Lavai Hotel (Hotel Kerema; %648 1396; fax 648 lage to village, eating sago and sleeping in
one of the largest towns this side of Port give out cash on credit cards. Other town 1397; s/d incl breakfast K170/210) This place offers a local homes. The villagers are famous for their
Moresby but there is precious little bustle amenities include a police station and a post simple, no-frills arrangement – fridge, TV, friendliness (post head-hunting days) and it
in the hustle to downtown Kerema. What office (%648 1028). bed and tea-/coffee-making facilities and can be difficult to get away. If you plan on
is there can be found clustered around the that’s about it. The restaurant on occasion walking anywhere it’s best to take a guide.
central footy field, a 30-minute walk uphill Sleeping & Eating can rustle up one of the region’s famous The missionaries in Kerema should be able
from the wharf. Although it may be hard to Catholic Mission (%648 1012; dm incl breakfast & din- mud crabs and the bakery makes delicious to help with guides and reliable boat men.
believe, Kerema was primarily selected as ner K85) Cleanliness may be next to godliness, cream buns. Alternatively, Tony Malaisa from the Kerema
the provincial capital because of its climate – but this adage isn’t embraced at the Catholic Alternatively ask at Hearo Alex Trading, Educational Services office at the Kerema
it is comparatively drier than elsewhere in Mission. The shared facilities need more than which was in the process of building a guest- Catholic Mission compound (opposite) may
the province. a decent scrub. Do yourself a favour and house when we passed through or, at a pinch, be able to help.
Apart from its friendly people, there is don’t be tempted to peel back the bed sheets. the Salvation Army (%648 1384) or the Missions of From Kerema you can head west to Ihu,
little else to recommend it. As a stop on a However the staff are friendly and can provide Charity (%648 1089). via Donbosco Arimiri Secondary School
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES

GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES

204 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • D a r u 205

and Herehere following an old tractor road. Kikori

At Ihu you can stay at the government sta-
tion or proceed to Lariau where there is a
Catholic Mission.
A more interesting trip is to walk to Aseki
(p140) in Morobe Province via Kamina, Kanabea
and Kaintiba. The villages along this route have
retained much of their indigenous culture
and offer a view into the traditional way of
life. Not far off the main track are villages
where people still wear traditional clothing.
The entire trek takes seven to eight days. The
Catholic Mission at Kamina, a two-day walk
from Kerema, should be able to put you up for
a night. If you want to attempt it, you can take
a canoe for much of the distance to Kamina
before continuing on foot.
Kaintiba is in Anga country and is a tough,
two- or three-day walk from Kamina where
you climb through a range of vegetation in-
cluding kunaigras and mountain forest. From
Kaintiba you can fly back to Kerema, or to
Menyamya or Lae. Alternatively, you can
keep walking to Menyamya or Aseki (p140)
and take a PMV to Lae. But hell, why stop
there? It is possible to head for either the
Bulldog or Black Cat Tracks (p137), which
begin near Wau. You would, however, need
to be well prepared, extremely fit and pos-
sibly a little insane to attempt such arduous
undertakings back-to-back.
For those gluttons for punishment, this is
the most arduous boat trip of all, combining
a series of canoes and other boats through
endless swamp to Baimuru, Kikori, and then
on to Daru. This could take several weeks
and requires you to plan your first couple
of days with the help of the missionaries in
Kerema, and just hope for the best beyond
that. Don’t forget to take a good amount
of food and buckets of mosquito repellent.
Faster but less interesting is by motorised
dingy along the coast. A 75hp motor will
get you there twice as fast as 45hp and cost
K200. Faster still – fly.
Kikori is the coastal base for the 264km
Kutubu oil pipeline and has great barra-
mundi and black bass fishing. Delta Lodge
(%648 5029) run by Robert Snr can organise
fishing expeditions and puk-puk (crocodile)
spotting night trips. The area is well known
for its large pythons which are sometimes to
be found coiled around each other in amo-
rous reptilian embrace. Locals say it’s bad
luck to disturb copulating snakes – we say
it’s plain foolishness.
The Community Development Initiative (CDI;
%648 5001, d K80) can also provide you with
accommodation.
OK TEDI MINE
The open-cut Ok Tedi mine has been yielding gold and copper from Mt Fubilan, just beyond
Tabubil, since 1984. For a time it was the largest gold mine outside South Africa, and if you can
persuade Ok Tedi Mining Limited (OTML) to let you visit (having done the mandatory two-hour
safety course), the immense size of the operation won’t fail to impress. The logistics are extraor-
dinary: to get the ore to ships off the PNG coast, a copper/gold slurry is sent 140km through a
pipeline to Kiunga, where it’s loaded on to barges for the 800km trip down the Fly River.
The mine has not been without controversy. In 1984 a tailings dam collapsed allowing 80,000
tons of pollution per day to flow into the Ok Tedi and Fly Rivers. The resulting disaster endangered
the livelihoods of people living along the river and damaged important breeding grounds for
ocean fish near the river mouth.
A lawsuit was filed against BHP, the Australian company that developed and managed the
mine. Thirty thousand villagers demanded compensation for the environmental damage. But BHP
refused; it persuaded the PNG government to make it illegal for anyone to claim damages from
BHP or its affiliates, such as Ok Tedi Mining Limited, in such cases. The suit was filed instead in
Melbourne and, soon after, BHP and the landowners agreed on a big out-of-court settlement.
In 2002 BHP opted out of Ok Tedi. Control was assumed by a company owned by the traditional
landowners, who retained most of the mine’s OTML management to run the show.
and a quarter of the country’s entire spiring. Its Chinese restaurant (open 6am
export earnings. to 8pm) makes for a tasty alternative if you
have been living on sago in the bush.
DARU
Daru was the colonial headquarters for Getting There & Around
Western Division, the former name of the Airlines PNG (%645 9039; airport) flies between
province, from 1893 and remains the capital Daru and Port Moresby (K640) everyday ex-
today. It is on a small island of the same cept Sunday, and has a couple of flights a week
name, not far from the mouth of the Fly to Kiunga (K755), Tabubil, Kerema (K571)
River. The main drawcard is the fishing, and other exotic locales.

Malalaua
There is no reason to stop in Malalaua other
than if your PMV from Port Moresby (K20,
four hours) arrives too late for you to catch an
onward dingy to Kerema (K50, two to three
hours). The PMV stop is actually 1km east of
Malalaua in a village called Sapeahora (‘head
of the crocodile’) on the river bank. There is
a small market here and boats usually depart
around 2pm for Kerema. If you miss the last
boat your official accommodation options are
zilch. We stayed with local Rastafarian Alex
Naime and his extended family. Alex has a
disused shipping container which he allows
people to sleep in and can rig you a mosquito
net and provide a thin mattress. He doesn’t
charge but you should leave a monetary gift
which is customary in such circumstances.
His house is 50m before the bridge.
Malalaua is at the southern end of the
WWII-era Bulldog Track (p137), although
this walk is better accessed from the other end
near Wau, in Morobe Province.
WESTERN PROVINCE
The majority of the province consists of
an inhospitable flood plain which borders
Indonesia’s West Papua and receives little
rainfall in itself. Instead the massive Fly
River system and its tributaries, including
the Strickland and Ok Tedi Rivers, are fed
by the far wetter Highlands. Olsobip, one
of the northernmost stations in the prov-
ince, could well be one of the wettest places
on earth with a rainfall in excess of 10m a
year – although this has never been scien-
tifically established as there is no weather
station here.
The far west sees few tourists but is
slowly gaining a worldwide reputation as
a bird-watching destination (near Kiunga)
and a fishing mecca (in the Tonda Wildlife
Management Area – for those who can
afford it).
The local economy revolves around the
Ok Tedi mine (opposite), which accounts for
over half of the entire province’s economy
but some sailors moor here en route be-
tween Australia and PNG. The best con-
tact is Max, the manager of the Kuki Hotel
(below), who can arrange fishing trips in the
mangroves for barramundi and black bass.
Rates vary from about K600 to K3000 for a
two-day trip (depending on how much fuel
you use).
There’s a Bank South Pacific (%645 9062), but
bring some cash with you.
Sleeping & Eating
Kuki Hotel (% 645 9476; marumari@daltron.com.pg;
r K120/170; ai) The cheaper rooms have
share facilities, while the self-contained
rooms are more comfortable and come
with TV and phone. The hotel’s Crayfish
Restaurant (open 6am to 8am, noon to
1.30pm and 6.30pm to 8pm) serves tasty
food at fair prices.
New Century Hotel (% 645 9169; newcentury@
daltec.com; s/d K198/308, incl meals K253/418; a) The
only other option in town, the rooms here
are clean and comfortable although unin-
The only passenger boat to call here is un-
reliably operated by Pacific Frontline Trading
(p201) on a monthly schedule.
AROUND WESTERN PROVINCE
Tabubil
Tabubil dances to the tune of Ok Tedi, and
the town exists purely to support the vast
gold and copper mine 30km to the north-
west. You may have to pinch your travelling
companion to remind yourself that you are
still in PNG. The orderly rows of Australian-
style housing, footpaths, street signs and
roads free from potholes makes it seem like
the last bastion of Western civilisation in an
apocalyptic film.
Tabubil has dreadful weather. It was rain-
ing when we arrived and it was raining when
we left. When asked how long it had been
raining, a local replied ‘seven months’. When
we later asked him how long had he lived in
Tabubil he replied, ‘seven months’.
Tabubil has a post office, well-equipped
hospital, pharmacy and supermarkets in a
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
206 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d W e s t e r n P r o v i n c e
complex near the centre of town. Westpac
(% 548 9169) has a branch where you can
withdraw money against your credit card.
ATMs are coming soon.
Like Kiunga, the bird life in the valleys
around Tabubil is quite amazing – there are
more than 10 species of birds of paradise.
Most birders engage Samuel Kepuknai (right)
from Kiunga as a guide.
SLEEPING & EATING
There are only two accommodation options
in town and both are often full.
Palace Tabubil (%548 9108; fax 548 9107; dm K50-
90, r K150-225) Recently Tabubil Engineering
has allowed travellers to stay in their dunga
(company-owned accommodation in a large
compound opposite the General Hospital).
The rooms are freshly painted and some have
kitchenettes, a TV and fridge. The friendly
ladies who work here will find you a two-
burner stove if you are staying in a cheaper
room. Book first at the office.
Hotel Cloudlands (%548 9277; cloudlands@online
.net.pg; Newman Rd; s K132-330, d K154-385; asi)
There are three types of rooms (budget, stand-
ard and executive) and all are clean, if a lit-
tle uninspiring. Internet costs an exorbitant
K2.50 per minute. The bar and restaurant
(meals K20 to K35, open 5.15am to 9.30pm)
cater mainly to the tastes of the expats here
on mining business.
In the shopping centre there are a couple
of bakeries and some kai bars . You can also
eat at the nine-hole Tabubil Golf Club (%548 8181;
hlunch & dinner) and drink at the Star Mountains
Hash House Harriers Club (%6pm-midnight Mon, Wed,
Fri & Sat).
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Be prepared to be stranded in Tabubil. The
planes can’t land when the cloud and rain
obscure the runway – this is most days. Many
locals prefer to fly from Kiunga; the weather
is better there, the valley broader and, subse-
quently, the flights more reliable.
Airlines PNG (%548 9171; tbgres@apng.com; airport)
flies daily (except Sunday) to Port Moresby
(K941) and Mt Hagen (K630) and alternat-
ing days to Lae (K861) and Daru (K883). Air
Niugini (%548 3109/3077; sales.tabubil@airniugini.com.pg;
town centre) operates under contract to Ok Tedi
and most flights are not open to the public. It
does, however, fly three times a week to Port
Moresby (K949). MAF (%548 9025; airport) flies to
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Vanimo (Wednesday, K600), Tari (Thursday,
K440), Mt Hagen (once a week) and Telefomin
(five times a week, K150).
The road to Kiunga is serviced by PMVs
(K20, three hours) that leave Tabubil at about
7am and again at 10am; the hotel can arrange
for one to pick you up.
Kiunga
The river port of Kiunga is the most north-
ern navigable point on the Fly River and the
start of the Kiunga–Tabubil Hwy, the only
all-weather road in the province. Slurries of
copper concentrate from the Ok Tedi mine are
sent here to the waiting barges along a 137km
pipeline which runs parallel to the highway.
Bank South Pacific (%548 1073) has a branch in
Kiunga, but carry any money you’ll need.
ACTIVITIES
In recent years Kiunga has become a popular
destination for bird-watchers, mainly due to
the expertise of Samuel Kepuknai, an unas-
suming but passionate naturalist who’s an
expert on where to find the region’s birds.
Contact him at Kiunga Nature Tours (%548
1451; kepuknai@online.net.pg) to arrange tours
up the Fly River or day trips from Tabubil.
He charges about K200 per group, per day
plus transport.
The best birding is between April and
October when it’s drier and the birds are
beginning their breeding cycles. Bring some
rubber boots for walking in the mud.
SLEEPING & EATING
Kiunga has more places to sleep and eat,
and caters to a wider range of budgets
than Tabubil.
Bamboo Lodge (%548 1148; s/d K75/100) Don’t
expect anything beyond a bed and a table.
Pretty grim.
ONE FOR YOU, ONE FOR ME
There is a peculiar way of shaking hands
around Tabubil and Kiunga. It starts in nor-
mal fashion but ends with a nifty little snap.
At the conclusion of the handshake, leave a
hooked finger extended. The other person
will clasp this with two of their own fingers
and when you both withdraw your fingers
you’ll be able to ‘snap’ them against each
other. Cool.
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d W e s t e r n P r o v i n c e 207
BIRDS OF A FEATHER
If you find bird-watching boring you may be forced to reconsider that position after a visit to
Papua New Guinea. Even those who have trouble identifying a chicken, except when it’s quartered,
roasted and served with a side of chips, have been caught singing the praises of New Guinea’s
avian star – the bird of paradise.
Birds of paradise are the drag queens of the animal kingdom – strutting their stuff in vividly
coloured feathers and finery. Impossibly long tail feathers, iridescent breast shields, flashy capes,
head ribbons and fleshy neck wattles are all part of their outlandish costumes. Some cavort in
crowds, sashaying from one branch to the next in unbridled vanity, while others prefer to shake
their tail feathers on specially prepared stages called leks.
There are a number of places all over the country where it is relatively easy to see birds of
paradise, but keep your expectations realistic. Those kaleidoscopic dances are reserved for disin-
terested females – usually high in a tree, obscured by branches and silhouetted by the rising sun.
If your photos don’t quite cut it, check out the July 2007 National Geographic article at www7
.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0707/feature3.
PNG has one more ornithological oddity (and besides, every campy drama needs a butch
villain). Enter stage left, the world’s only poisonous bird – the pitohui. Little is known about the
pitohui but the steroidal alkaloids found on its feathers are chemically identical to those found
on poison dart frogs.
Ekame Lodge (%548 1451; kepuknai@online.net.pg; GETTING THERE & AROUND
r per person K45, 3 meals K70) Guide Samuel PMVs to Tabubil (K20) leave around mid-
Kepuknai (see opposite) runs this lodge on morning: the metal road is well maintained
the banks of the Elevara River, about three by the mine. Town is a 30-minute walk from
hours by boat from Kiunga. This village-style the airport. Hotels provide transfers.
place was built specifically for bird-watching. Airlines PNG (%548 1257) flies everyday (ex-
Samuel virtually guarantees you’ll see the 12- cept Sunday) to Port Moresby (K925) and
wired bird of paradise, king bird of paradise, Mt Hagen (K614). It flies three times a week
white-bellied pitohui, little paradise king- to Daru (K746) and Lae (K875). MAF (%548
fisher and flame bowerbird, among others. 1203) has flights to southern airstrips includ-
The return boat trip costs K350. ing Lake Murray and Daru. It also operates
Kiunga Guesthouse (% 548 1084; manager@ a weekly flight to Tari via some truly remote
ningerum.com.pg; s K150-290, d K240-400) The budget stations.
and basic rooms share the common bathroom, The barges at the wharf will not take
while the more expensive self-contained travellers.
rooms are very comfortable with cable TV
and spacious layouts. Rates include meals
and laundry. The restaurant (meals K15 to Tonda Wildlife Management Area
K30; open 6am to 8am, noon to 1.30pm and Tropical Papua New Guinea isn’t usually
6.30pm to 8.30pm) also serves home-cooked associated with savanna woodlands, yet the
meals to nonguests. New Guinea savannas cover approximately
Lobira Hotel (% 548 1127; nfdc@daltron.com.pg; 2.5 million hectares across the PNG and
r K195-250) There is no sign but you can’t miss Indonesia border. The monsoonal savannas
this large, apricot-coloured building opposite of the Transfly Region become extensive,
the Kiunga Guesthouse. The self-contained shallow lake systems. Merauke, Bensbach
rooms are smaller than those next door and Wassi Kussa Rivers in particular have
although the basic rooms are comparable. large seasonal lake systems that support large
Rooms have cable TV, air-con and a fridge. sedge grasslands and paperbark woodlands.
Rates include meals and laundry (per per- The Tonda Wildlife Management Area was es-
son). The restaurant (meals K20 to K30; tablished in 1975 to conserve 590,000 hec-
open 6am to 8am, noon to 1.15pm and 6pm tares a of savanna, protect wildlife species
to 8pm) cooks much the same style food as from overhunting and attract sustainable
next door. development.
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
© Lonely Planet Publications
208 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d W e s t e r n P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com

BENSBACH In the heart of all this is Bensbach Wildlife

The Bensbach area is a vast floodplain and
lies within the Tonda Wildlife Management
Area. The whole place is alive with birds
and animals, including Rusa deer (that the
Dutch dropped off as a food source for ship-
wrecked sailors), wallabies, crocodiles and
pigs. Bird-watchers and fishers are well ca-
tered for; the Bensbach River is renowned for
its barramundi.
Lodge (%542 1438 Mt Hagen; www.pngtours.com; per
person all-inclusive US$600), located 96km north
of the river mouth on the Bensbach River
and 12km from the Indonesian border. The
low-lying lodge is built of local materials
and sleeps 16 in two wings that are sepa-
rated by a common lounge. The lodge is
ideal for fishermen and quite comfortable,
if rather expensive.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
209

Island Provinces
How do you say Romancing the Stone in Tok Pisin? Largely untamed and raw, the islands of PNG
are not your classic beach paradise. Here you’ll live out your Indiana Jones fantasies, blazing
a trail of your own amid wild jungles. The adventure starts by climbing the volcanoes near

ISLAND PROVINCES
Rabaul, looking for WWII relics on the Gazelle Peninsula, staying in villages on New Ireland’s
east coast, paddling through lagoons mottled with pristine reefs near Kavieng, exploring the
rugged beauty of Bougainville or escaping to an island off Lavongai (New Hanover).

Be ready for a culture shock, too. These islands are home to tiny villages where people
lead lives that have changed little over centuries. Nowhere else in the Pacific (except, maybe,
in Vanuatu or the Solomon Islands) will the local cultures sweep you off your feet – just be
sure to brush up on your Melanesian etiquette before you go. If you plan a visit in July, try to
make it coincide with the authentic Warwagira Festival of masked dance.

The islands’ bounty goes beneath the surface, with its unbeatable repertoire of diving ad-
ventures. Shipwrecks, fish life in abundance and thriving reefs are the rewards of diving here.
Surfies rave about the uncrowded waves off New Ireland (but you didn’t hear it from us).

And then, once you’ve run out of stamina, opt for the trusted combination of a fruit cocktail,
a hammock and a good book – you’ve earned it.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Squeezing yourself into a wetsuit to explore underwater treasures, scuba diving among the
world’s most fecund reefs in Kimbe Bay (p59) or plunging into the wreck-strewn waters of
Simpson Harbour (p219)
„ Scaling up extinct Kombiu (Mt Mother,
p223) and feasting your eyes on the
360 degree views of Rabaul, Gazelle
Lavongai (New Hanover)
Peninsula and Mt Tavurvur
„ Relaxing with a book and a fresh coconut on New Ireland's
west coast
a blow-your-mind beach off Lavongai (New
Simpson Harbour; Kokopo
Hanover; p234) and getting a taste of outer Kombiu
island lifestyle Kimbe Bay
Bougainville
„ Earning your intrepid stripes in Bougainville
(p243), especially if you continue as an ‘end-
of-the-road’ traveller with a trip to more
remote places nearby
„ Reflecting on New Britain’s turbulent WWII occupation when you visit the East New Britain
Historical & Cultural Centre (p214) in Kokopo
„ Experiencing timeless traditional village life on New Ireland’s west coast (p237), staying in
homestays and watching the ancient art of shark calling

„ POPULATION: 523,000 „ AREA: 28,450 SQ KM

 210 I S L A N D P R O V I N C E S lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I S L A N D P R O V I N C E S 211

0 100 km
ISLAND PROVINCES 0 60 miles

Mussau I North Solomons Province

KILINAILAU
(651m) ST MATTHIAS GROUP Nuguria (Fead) Tulun (CARTERET) GROUP
Nai Lagoon
Group (100km)
Palakau
Eloaua I Tench I
Emirau I
TAKUU
Lemankoa Buka I (MORTLOCK) IS
MANUS
PROVINCE B P A C I F I C O C E A N Lontis
Lorengau i s
Hanahan
Tong I m 0 50 km
Ysabel a Gagan
0 30 miles
Pak I r Lonohan
HORNOS IS Channel Tunung I
c Mt Bei (498m)
Tsoi Boto k Hutjena
Buka Buka Passage
Rambutyo I Tsoi Island Bangatang I Kokopau
ISLAND PROVINCES

ISLAND PROVINCES
Island Sohano I
Lenkau Naigasa Tinputz
New Matanasoi Taiof I Siara Cape L'Averdy NORTH
Cape Matanalem Sulaman I SOLOMONS
Lou I See Manus Province (960m) Taskul NEW
Umbukul Kavieng PROVINCE
Enlargement IRELAND Turumbal

Em anges
Lavongai Putput
TABAR IS

R
(Nono) PROVINCE Inus Point

per
(New Hanover) I Mangai Simberi I
Meteran Kunua
Lokono Panamafei

or
Selapiu I
Tatau I
Bougainville
Wuvulu I (Ninigo Group); Manus Province Baudissin I Kaut Wakunai
Ponam I Andra I Fangalawa Mabua Mahur I
Hermit Is Nusa Lik I Lavalai Mt Balbi
Boudeuse Tulu Ahus I Los Laraibina LIHIR GROUP Cape Mabiri
Ka'awa I Hawai I Lissenung I Namasalang Tabar I (2685m) Mapearo
Bay Negros I Bol Koripobi Mabiri
Sopa Sopa
Seeadler
Harbour
Dyaul I Bagatere
Panachais Fissoa Libba A Masahet I Mt Bagana
Head Liap Asilima (1730m)
Sori S c Konos r Londolovit Morgan Arawa Bay

Cr
Lessau Lombrum Cape Timeis h l Lambuso Dalom Bay Junction Tautsina I
Buyang Lorengau e

ow
Lihir I
Manus I Lamusmus Tembin n i Malom Torokina Kieta

c
Bipi I

n
Kontu Arawa
Momote tz Kanam Empress

Pr
h
Worei Ri Loniu Ugana Ra Lelet Plateau Panguna Aropa

in
ve Messi Puroro Guest House TANGA IS Augusta Bay Orami
Passage

ce
r

i
ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Mt Dremsel Karu Bay Boang I Ra Mt Takuan
Loi Kalili Plantation Motupena ng

p
Sapondralis Malai (702m) Konogogo Karu Malendok I Point es (2210m) Toimonapu
Bay Patusi M'bunai

e
Southwest Lokabia Kokola Boku
Bay Point Bay S New Ireland Namatanai

l
Western Is & I Uluputur
Petersen Reefs Labur Bay

a
(50km) 0 50 km
0 30 miles Fedarb Kabanut Aku Ovau I

g
Sosuruya Buin
Y Group B I S M A R C K Malabita
DUKE OF Pakabong Samo Kangu

o
T See Gazelle FENI IS

H an
Lou I YORK GROUP Warangansau
MANUS M'Buke I L Rei Peninsula Map Muliana Fauro I
A S E A
PROVINCE R (pp214–15) Suralil Danfu Ambitle I Babase

sM
M I Cape Manga
A D Kamdaru I SOLOMON

eyeKam
Lambert Lassul Shortland I ISLANDS
Pam I Wapi

r R dar ro n
Rabaul

R
To Mwilitau Keravat Kokopo

an u
To Sherburne KabisalaoVe
(Purdy) Is r Rei

ge W Ra
Baluan I & Circular
(30km) Reefs (80km) Kait (2399m)
Malabonga Taron
(2021m)

e
Silur

itin
R
Garove I Pondo Warango St Georges Lik Siar
Mt Sinewit Channel Liki Icad Maliom
(1360m) Lamassa I
WITU IS Toriu Merai
Open Bulayang Lambom I
Lolobau I Ailo Mt Biririnia
Unea I Bay Cape
Tol (685m) St George
Bali Ubili
Willaumez Baia Marunga
Peninsula Lake Dakataua Wide
Mt Uluwun
Mt Wangore Kimbe I Ulamona (The Father) Bay
(1155m) (2334m)

s
Kimbe Bay Bubu

tn
Tolokiwa I Kalip
Ewasse

o
Talasea Sampun
Bialla
Sakar I

i
Hoskins Tarobi

a
Gloucester Garu n

g
Walindi
ka
Pomio
Bambak Dauli Koimumu a Matong
Sag Sag Mt Talawe Mt Garbuna Gig Mt Pago N a
Nukuhu Kimbe Jacquinot
Kampalap (1824m) (742m) Malmal Bay
Siassi Mt Andewa Mosa
Vi Ubai EAST l
t i Bairaman NEW BRITAIN
Yangla Aisega Lau
az (2027m) e
M iver

Pu PROVINCE
Ani

Wh
R
elk

Umboi (Rooke) I lie i te ma

S n Ra n g e
Ri mbit

Ri
oi
a

tr ver Ri
ve p S O L O M O N S E A
r
i

a WEST
ve

r
Al

i Wasum
NEW BRITAIN Uvol New Britain i
t

Sialum Waku PROVINCE h

Amio
Kandrian c
MOROBE Gasmata r
PROVINCE NORTH
A SOLOMONS
Huon B Pinipel I PROVINCE
Peninsula i
s GREEN IS
m a r c k Nissan I

See North Solomons

Province Enlargement

S O L O M O N S E A Lontis
Buka I
 212 N E W B R I TA I N • • H i s t o r y
NEW BRITAIN
New Britain is awesome. PNG’s largest island,
it has a bit of everything you’ve come to
this country for – think colonial history, re-
markable traditional cultures and seriously
pristine wilderness (despite areas where there
are logging and mining). The pièce de résist-
ance? Volcanoes. The whole region is a rum-
bling, billowing string of cones and craters
ISLAND PROVINCES
cloaked with virgin tropical rainforest. Some
are dormant and harmless while others are
scrappy villains that periodically flex their
muscles. In September 1994 Mt Tavurvur
and Mt Vulcan erupted and destroyed most
of Rabaul, one of PNG’s biggest and most
alluring cities, in a furious rain of ash and
rock (see boxed text, p222).
When the raw nature on land has finished
working its magic on you, be sure to don mask
and tank to explore New Britain’s sensational
watery surrounds. To say that Kimbe Bay of-
fers world-class dive sites is an understate-
ment. Rabaul’s harbour and the various bays
that carve out the Gazelle Peninsula also host
superlative sites, such as wrecks and psyche-
delic coral reefs. There is one proviso, though:
don’t expect to find lots of secluded white-
sand scimitars. Idyllic beaches are not New
Britain’s strong point.
New Britain is divided into two prov-
inces; each has its distinctive feel. East New
Britain (ENB) Province ends in the Gazelle
Peninsula where there has been lengthy con-
tact with Europeans, education levels are
high and the people are among the most
economically advantaged in the country. The
other end of the Island, West New Britain
(WNB) Province, is sparsely populated, lit-
tle developed and did not come into serious
contact with Europeans until the 1960s. The
migrant workers from the Highlands, the
‘colonial’-flavoured expats and the dense
bush give WNB the flavour that the east
might have had mid-last century. It’s a fron-
tier country with many colourful, roguish
Queenslanders escaping the more regulated
life ‘back home’.
The most easily accessible areas for travel-
lers include the Gazelle Peninsula and Kimbe
Bay. If you want to explore the rest of the
Island, then you’ll have to cut a path of your
own, which means a lot of gumption, time
and money.
lonelyplanet.com
History
The Island of New Britain was settled around
30,000 years ago. The Lapita people, the world’s
first true ocean navigators, arrived about 4500
years ago, bringing pottery and trade with
them. Several hundred years ago, the Tolai
people came from southern New Ireland and
invaded the Gazelle Peninsula in northernmost
New Britain, driving the Baining, Sulka and
Taulil people south into the mountains.
From 1874 to 1876 German traders estab-
lished settlements in the Duke of York Islands
and Blanche Bay. The area was renowned for
cannibalism. More missionaries were eaten
than heathens converted in some districts.
On 3 November 1884 a German protector-
ate was declared and the German New Guinea
Company assumed authority, which it held
until 1914 when Australian troops landed
at Kabakaul.
At the end of WWI, the German plant-
ers had their plantations expropriated and
were shipped back to Germany. Meanwhile
Australians evacuated German residences,
but not for long.
In 1937 the Vulcan and Tavurvur volcanoes
erupted, killing 507 people and causing enor-
mous damage. Before this eruption, Vulcan
had been a low, flat Island hundreds of metres
offshore. It had appeared from nowhere dur-
ing an 1878 blast (and had been immediately
planted with coconuts). When the 1937 erup-
tions ceased, Vulcan was a massive mountain
attached to the coast.
In 1941 Rabaul was completely crushed by
the advancing Japanese. At the peak of the war,
97,000 Japanese troops were stationed on the
Gazelle Peninsula. But the Allies never came.
More than 20,000 tons of Allied bombs rained
down upon the peninsula, keeping the remain-
ing Japanese forces underground and impotent.
When the war ended, they were still there.
On 19 September 1994 Tavurvur and
Vulcan re-awoke with relatively little warn-
ing, utterly destroying Rabaul (see boxed text,
p222). Only two people died but 50,000 people
lost their homes and one of PNG’s most de-
veloped and picturesque cities was flattened
again. In the following weeks, buildings
creaked under the weight of the falling ash and
collapsed. There was widespread looting.
Today, the region’s seismic activity is
measured more conscientiously than ever
and the vulcanology observatory posts regu-
lar bulletins. Tavurvur’s spectacular emissions
lonelyplanet.com
of smoke and noise are not presently
considered dangerous.
Geography & Climate
New Britain is a long, narrow, mountain-
ous Island. The interior is harsh and rugged,
split by gorges and fast-flowing rivers and
blanketed in thick rainforest. The Pomio
and Jacquinot Bay area receives more than
6500mm of rainfall each year, while annual
rainfall in the Blanche Bay and Simpson
Harbour area is about 2000mm. The dry sea-
son is between mid-April and November.
Culture
Most of the 184,000 people in ENB are
Tolai who share many cultural similarities
with southern New Irelanders. Traditional
enemies of the Tolai (see opposite), the semi-
nomadic Baining people of the mountains
perform fire dances, which are a spectacular
event. Gigantic bark-cloth masks with empha-
sised eyes and features are worn by dancers
who walk on, and eat, red-hot coals.
Secret male societies play an important
role in village life, organising ceremonies
and maintaining customary laws. Tolai cer-
emonies feature leaf-draped, anonymous
figures topped by masks – tumbuans and
dukduks, which are constructed deep in the
bush under tremendous taboo. He who dances
in the mask is no longer himself, but rather
the collective kastom (custom) of the tribe’s
long history. The most feared spirits are the
masalais, which are spirits of the bush and
water that live in certain rock pools and dewel
pleses (thickets).
Shell money retains its cultural signifi-
cance for the Tolai and is used mostly for
bride price (p36). Little shells are strung on
lengths of cane and bound together in great
rolls called loloi.
EAST NEW BRITAIN PROVINCE
A basic network of coastal roads and two
towns make this the most developed prov-
ince in the New Guinea islands. With the
once-beautiful city of Rabaul levelled by the
volcanic eruptions of 1994, Kokopo is now
the main centre. Between the two, a strip of
villages hug the shore of Blanche Bay. Behind
them, beyond the copra plantations and the
occasional town, the Baining Mountains
give way to a green expanse of bush and
volcanic peaks.
N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 213
Kokopo
Kokopo is an opportunistic town. It has lit-
erally risen from ashes. Kokopo started to
develop just after Rabaul was flattened by
the volcanic eruptions of 1994. While you
can feel a palpable melancholy in Rabaul,
Kokopo reflects its optimistic view towards
the future. The town emanates a sense of con-
fidence, pride and zing. But it lacks Rabaul’s
mysterious aura.
At least it’s serviceable, with a good range
ISLAND PROVINCES
of well-organised accommodation options,
banks, government services, a couple of in-
ternet cafés and lots of businesses, but there
are no big-ticket sights.
If you come from mainland PNG, Kokopo
is a good base to set your body clock to
Island time, get your bearings and make
the most of the infrastructure before head-
ing out to rougher areas found in the New
Guinea islands.
ORIENTATION
A coastal road runs around Blanche Bay, from
Tokua airport through Kokopo to Rabaul.
The town is strung along this coastal road
on the waterfront. At its western end are the
picturesque lawns of the golf course.
INFORMATION
ANZ (Williams Rd; h9am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri)
A new building located in the centre. Has a guarded ATM
(Visa, MasterCard), open from 7am to 7pm.
Bank South Pacific (Williams Rd; h9am-3pm Mon-
Thu, 9am-4pm Fri) Expect interminable queues inside. Has
four guarded ATMs (Visa only), open from 6am to 7pm.
Central.
East New Britain Tourist Bureau (%982 8657;
fax 983 7070; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) At ENB Historical &
Cultural Centre. Pretty much useless.
Loyrip Holdings LTD (Williams Rd; %982 9312; per
hr K42; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Internet
café with CD burning and printing facilities, located beside
Taklam Lodge; has the quickest connections in PNG islands
(when it’s not too cloudy). Two flat-screen computers
only.
Police (%982 8222)
Post Office (h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Telikom (h8.30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 3.30pm Fri) Sells
phonecards.
Yudrowet Internet Cafe (per hr K25; h8am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri) Near Taklam Lodge.
Zoma Medical Clinic (Williams Rd; %982 9356, after
hr 982 9718; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Private
clinic, east of the centre.
 214 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e
KOKOPO
A B
1
United
Church
To
Rabaul
W
illi
am
s
(30km) Rd
Queen
Emma's
10 Steps
ISLAND PROVINCES
17
Golf
Course
2
12
3 INFORMATION
ANZ.............................................1 C3
Bank South Pacific.......................2 D3
East New Britain Tourist Bureau....3 B2
Loyrip Holdings LTD.....................4 B3
Post Office.................................(see 1)
Telikom....................................... 5 D3
Yudrowet Internet Cafe...............6 C3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
East New Britain Historical &
Cultural Centre....................... 7 B2
Market.........................................8 C3
Queen Emma's House.............(see 17)
4 Supa Bake Kai Bar......................14 C3
SLEEPING
Kokopo Beach Bungalows............9 D3
Kokopo Village Resort................10 B2
Taklam Lodge............................11 C3
Vavagil Guesthouse....................12 B2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The rewarding East New Britain Historical &
Cultural Centre (%982 8453; admission K2; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat) has a tremendous collection of histori-
cal objects, photographs and many Japanese
WWII relics. The Tok Pisin documents is-
sued to Allied airmen are accompanied by
translations instructing the reader to obey
the white men who fell from the sky. Most
poignant is the courageous role played by the
locals in a war whose origins were completely
alien to them.
When you’re done with the museum,
head to the site of Queen Emma’s house, located
right where the road terminates at the Ralum
Country Club. Emma Forsayth, from Samoa,
started a trading business at Mioko in the
0 800 m
0 0.5 miles
C D
Blanche
3
7
15
4 beach or a good snorkelling spot, it’s worth
11
6 St
a
Be
rri
m Rapopo Plantation Resort (4.5km);
St
20
14
ell
Ellw
8 Wi
llia
ms
Rd
EATING
Andersons Foodland.................. 13 D3
Chopsticks Restaurant..............(see 11)
Haus Win...................................(see 9)
Kokopo Village Resort..............(see 10)
Vavagil Restaurant.....................15 C2
DRINKING
Kadat Nite Club.........................16 C3
Ralum Country Club...................17 B2
Duke of York Islands in 1878 before extending
her empire to include plantations, trade stores
and ships. Don’t hold your breath; there’s not
much to see of Gunantambu, her grand home,
which was ruined in WWII.
The best place to soak up the atmosphere
is the waterfront, where banana boats (speed
boats) pull up on the east end of the beach,
and their drivers wait for a fare or go fishing.
These boats come and go from all over the
province, the Duke of Yorks and New Ireland.
The operators usually sleep through the mid-
day heat under the big trees or gather in small
groups, playing cards and string-band music
on their salty ghetto blasters. The buzzing
Kokopo market (Williams Rd; hclosed Sun) is also
well worth a stroll. It’s best on Saturday. Buai
lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
(betel nut) and its condiments, daka (mus-
tard stick) and cumbung (mineral lime, which
looks rather like cocaine in its little plastic
wraps) account for half of the stalls, with pro-
duce, such as fruit, vegetables, smoked fish
and crabs accounting for the remainder. At
the rear, tobacco growers sell dried leaves;
homemade cigars wrapped with sticky tape
at the mouth-end sell for 30t each.
Fancy diving? Rapopo Dive (%982 9901; www.rap
opoplantationresort.com; Rapopo Plantation Resort) based
at Rapopo Plantation Resort (p216) offers a
range of day trips (one dive/two dives/open-
Bay water course K180/350/1000). Equipment
rental is K175. It’s an excellent centre that has
professional staff. For information on diving
in the area, see p58.
The beaches around Kokopo are nothing to
write home about. If you’re after that perfect
19
To Zoma Medical Clinic (1km);
Queen Emma Lodge (1.5km);
considering taking a day trip to the Duke of
Niugini Helicopters (1.6km);
Seaview Beach Resort (3.9km);
York Islands (p224).
Rapopo Dive (4.5km);
16 Tokua Airport (10km)
TOURS
5 9
Rd
Taklam Lodge (right) and Kokopo Beach
Sports
kley
Ground Hotel (p216) conduct day tours (K400 for two
Poc
1 18
people) of Rabaul that take in all the sights
2 13 along the way including Mt Vulcan, the sub-
marine base and tunnels, as well as harbour
Dr
AdimaS
t
ining
German cruises.
Toba
Cemetery
Just outside Vunapope, Niugini Helicopters
(%982 9422; 15min flight K1200, maximum 5 people)
offers helicopter flights over Mt Tavurvur
TRANSPORT and Mt Vulcan.
Air Niugini................................. 18 D3
Banana Boats.............................19 C3
PMV Stop..................................20 C3 FESTIVALS & EVENTS
The Warwagira Festival (first two weeks of July)
is a great occasion, in the last three days of
which dukduks and tumbuans (masked for-
est spirits; dukduks are the taller ones) come
out of the sea from canoes at dawn to dance.
At night, Baining fire dancers perform, fire
walking in huge masks, with a live snake.
Call the ENB Tourist Bureau (p213) or one
of the hotels to confirm the date and the exact
location (it takes place either in Kokopo or
in Rabaul).
SLEEPING
Seaview Beach Resort (Map pp218-19;%982 8447; seaview
_bresort@global.net.pg; s K90, d K120-176; ai) Sea
view? What sea view? You must have chewed
a lot of betel nut if you can catch a glimpse
of the sea from your room through the thick
foliage. And the beach is only so-so. The real
N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 215
plus is the rambling garden, frequented by
humming birds, and there’s lots of greenery.
There’s some solid value here, even if the place
is out of the centre and the decorations may
strike you as a little drab. Our tip: skip the
meals (served upon request, K27), and enjoy
a slap-up dinner at the atmospheric Rapopo
Plantation Resort (p216) instead, about 500m
to the east along the beach. On the road to
the airport (take PMV 8). Free pick-up from
the airport.
ISLAND PROVINCES
Vavagil Guesthouse (%982 9417, 982 8883; vava
gil@global.net.pg; s K94-121, d K105-165; a) This is
what we scribbled on our notepad when we
dropped by: ‘pokey rooms, spongy beds, not
much natural light, low ceilings, lino floors,
well-scrubbed bathrooms, safe location’. It is
a reliable choice for cash-conscious travel-
lers. If you’re a light sleeper, avoid the annex
at Vavagil restaurant, which has five more
rooms (same layout) that open onto the din-
ing area and the bar (prepare for noise!). Free
airport transfers.
Taklam Lodge (%982 8870; www.taklam.com.pg;
Williams Rd; s/d without bathroom K99/130, s with bathroom
K145-195, d with bathroom K175-225, incl breakfast; a)
This old faithful keeps going from strength to
strength, with an ace location (but no views),
affordable prices and efficient staff. It’s a ram-
bling place with an assortment of rooms that
vary considerably in shapes and sizes, so check
out a few before settling in (try to nab one at
the back for quietness). Those ones upstairs
are sunnier. Another plus is the excellent local
information and tours. Rates include a mea-
gre breakfast. Same management as Kokopo
Beach Hotel (p216).
Kokopo Village Resort (%982 9096; www.koko
poresort.com.pg; Williams Rd; s K100-127, d K154; ai)
‘Tropical, convenient, fascinating’, says the
website. We’d go for ‘functional, unmemo-
rable, serviceable’, despite brave attempts at
introducing a few decorative touches, such
as traditional masks in the reception area. It
consists of a series of two-storey buildings that
have red corrugated rooves, an onsite restau-
rant and a ‘business centre’. The cheaper, boxy
rooms beside the reception are best avoided;
it’s worth stretching the pennies for the much
more appealing deluxe rooms.
Queen Emma Lodge (%982 9206, 982 9465; queen
emmalodge@daltron.com.pg; s K275-297, d K325-347; a)
‘Overwater balcony, in the heart of Kokopo
Town’, says the leaflet. Truth is, most rooms
face the bay, but a row of healthy coconut
 216 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e
trees limits the views, and it’s 1km east of the
centre. If you can forgive the misleading slo-
gan, this is a reliable standby in an attractive
property, and there are a range of tidy, size-
able rooms, a good restaurant and a bar. The
wood-panelled Deluxe rooms are well worth
the extra cost, especially rooms 20 to 22 and
26 to 28. A new wing with budget rooms was
being built when we visited.
oKokopo Beach Hotel (%982 8788, 982
8789; kokopobeachbungalow@global.net.pg; r incl breakfast
ISLAND PROVINCES
K330-365; ai) Being a little Island of sub-
dued glamour, this well-run establishment
is the closest thing Kokopo has to a boutique
hotel. It’s a short stagger from the rough and
tumble of the centre (but it’s so peaceful, you
wouldn’t know it). The generous-sized, sensi-
tively furnished rooms in the new wing score
high on creature comforts. The wood-carved
bungalows scattered in the lush garden are
equally attractive. All units are graced with
sweet vistas over the bay and the beach (quiz:
what colour is the sand?). There’s an excellent
outdoor bar-restaurant. Enjoy.
Rapopo Plantation Resort (Map pp218-19; %982
9944; www.rapopoplantationresort.com; s/d K335/365;
ai) Some might say that this place is going
a bit overboard on the dark-wood panelling in
the two pavilions (we’re not in Finland), but
the whole place exudes Zen tranquillity and
rustic charm. It’s right on the beach among
fig and coconut trees and immaculate lawns.
Expect trim, amply-sized rooms with all mod
cons, with the added lure of sweeping views of
the bay and Mt Tavurvur. The wood-carved
posts on the terrace are a nice touch. Other
perks include an onsite restaurant and a dive
centre (see p215). It’s a mellow and comfort-
able place to stay, but it’s just a little too far
from the action to call it perfect.
EATING
And the nominees for the Oscar for the most
flavoursome feeds are...
Kokopo Market (Williams Rd; hclosed Sun) The
place to head to if you want to stock up on
fruit and vegetables, including big bunches of
taro. You can buy meat (or plantain) and rice
wrapped in a banana leaf for K1.50.
Supa Bake (Williams Rd; pastries 60t-K2.50; h6am-
3.30pm Mon-Sat, to 9am Sun) Be sure to swing by this
busy pastry shop, even if it’s just to gawk at
the display cabinet full of scones, cookies and
buns. Let us know what the vividly-coloured
‘rainbow cakes’ taste like.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Steak House (%982 9206; mains K15-40; hbreak-
fast, lunch & dinner) Carnivores, rejoice: this well-
regarded eatery located at Queen Emma
Lodge brims with deliciously prepared rump,
eye fillet, T-Bone and sirloin steaks. If you’ve
had your fill of animal proteins, pizzas are also
available. Lunch is easier on the wallet (and
on the stomach), when fish and chips, and
sandwiches are on offer. The décor, enlivened
with wooden floor and artefacts, creates a
mildly exotic atmosphere that encourages a
long, relaxed dinner.
Chopsticks Restaurant (%982 8870; Williams Rd;
mains K18-35; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This place
just defies logic. We still can’t figure out why
it has the same menu (and same prices) as the
stylish Haus Win (same management). The
décor is far more appealing at the Haus Win
and transfers are free, so there’s no point eating
here. Please change the marketing director!
Haus Win (%982 8870; mains K18-35; hbreakfast,
lunch & dinner) Top marks for this oasis which is
part of Kokopo Beach Hotel. High-quality
Chinese and Western cooking, a good selec-
tion of Australian tipples and a switched-on
ambience ensure plenty of regular customers
among the expat community and local glit-
terati. There are many highlights, including
a copious chow mein, prawn cutlets, Chinese
omelette and a few vegetarian options. One
downside: most desserts on the menu, in-
cluding a tempting sago pudding, were not
available the day we ate there – so frustrating.
The dining area, designed with local materials,
proffers lovely views over the bay.
Kokopo Village Resort (%982 9096; Williams Rd;
mains K20-45; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This restau-
rant is simple but offers breathtaking views of
the golf course and the bay from the veranda.
With inoffensive pictures showing Tavurvur
volcano, blueish walls and chequered table-
cloths, the dining room won’t make it into
the pages of Gourmet Traveller but the din-
ner menu showcases favourites such as filet
mignon, lobster and grilled pork chops.
Vavagil Restaurant (%982 9417; mains K20-45;
hlunch & dinner) If you’re after a cheap and
filling meal, you could do a lot worse than
tuck into Vavagil’s sweet-and-sour pork or
chicken fillet burger while gazing at the seduc-
tive coastal views from the breezy, thatched
terrace. Big appetite? Hearty meat dishes are
also available. On Friday, the lunch buffet
(K30) is a steal. Put some wobble in your step
with a chilled SP brew (K5).
lonelyplanet.com
Rapopo Plantation Resort (%982 9944; mains K20-
65; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The standard-bearer
of Kokopo’s resort restaurants remains a great
venue for quality cooking with a dash of flair.
The sheer novelty of finding good pasta (car-
bonara, bolognese, marinara) in PNG doesn’t
wear off fast. Lobster, mud crab, burgers, grills
and daily specials round off the fun. The allur-
ing terrace is ideal for alfresco dining.
Other worthwhile considerations:
Andersons Foodland (Williams Rd; snacks K3-9;
h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) This supermarket
is on the pricey side, but well stocked, including a wide
selection of Australian imports. It also houses a neat
kai bar (takeaway food bar; mains K4-10) just past the
entrance, which rustles up tasty toasted sandwiches and
stews. Good ice creams too.
Kadat Nite Club (snacks K2-7; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat)
This hole-in-the-wall tosses up stews, fish and chips, and
gargantuan rice balls.
Ralum Country Club (barbecues K20; h7.30pm Wed &
Fri) The Friday barbecue is a great social event in Kokopo.
Supa Bake Kai Bar (Williams Rd; mains K3-8; h6am-
3.30pm Mon-Sat) Fill your grumbling tummy without bat-
tering the wallet in this buzzing joint. It has a wide array of
chicken and beef dishes, as well as burgers and sandwiches.
DRINKING
A thriving nightlife scene in Kokopo, oh
no no! But after a stay on other islands,
where nightlife is almost non-existent, the
town could almost pass itself off as a city
of bacchanalia, with a couple of acceptable
‘hot spots’.
Ralum Country Club (hnoon-9pm Sat-Thu, to 2am
Fri) Come here to soak up the atmosphere
with a chilled beer in hand. The golf club-
house has a bar, darts and snooker. If you
want to enjoy a slice of Island life, don’t miss
the weekly Joker Draw on Friday evening.
The veranda offers stupendous views of the
golf course and the sea.
Kadat Nite Club (admission K10; hThu-Sat) Night
owls swoop on Kokopo’s only real nightclub
on weekends, with people dancing, or sway-
ing, to a mix of reggae, sexy Island sounds
and international hits. Male travellers, take
note: ladies’ night is on Thursday. It’s cer-
tainly not glamorous, but a good spot to rub
shoulders (and everything else) with locals.
If all you need is a cold beer and a
chilled-out vibe, the bars at Queen Emma
Lodge, Rapopo Plantation Resort, Kokopo
Village Resort and Kokopo Beach Resort are
worth investigating.
N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 217
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
The KokopoRabaul area is serviced by Tokua
airport, 10km east of Kokopo. Look out for
the three murals of (from left to right) Tolai,
Pomio and Baining dancers as you get off
the plane. Air Niugini (Kokopo %982 9033; Tokua
Airport %983 9325) has one to two daily flights
to Port Moresby (K673, two hours) and flights
to Hoskins (K330, 35 minutes, once daily).
There are also flights to Kavieng (K335, 40
ISLAND PROVINCES
minutes, three weekly) and to Buka (K390,
45 minutes, four weekly).
Airlink used to fly to Kavieng via Lihir, and
to Pomio and to Hoskins, but the airline was
out of the picture at the time of writing. Check
it out while you’re there – another airline
might have re-opened these routes.
Boat
Banana boats tie up on the beach near the
post office and can be hired for trips to New
Ireland via the Duke of York Islands (K50, two
hours). You can charter a banana boat just
about anywhere (K100 plus petrol).
GETTING AROUND
Car
Daily 4WD hire (K240, plus K1.10 per kilo-
metre) is costly. Add another K10 per hour
for a driver (recommended). The following
companies have offices at Tokua airport.
Avis (%983 9331, 982 8179)
Budget (%983 9391; fax 983 9392)
Hertz (%982 9152, 983 9326; fax 982 9151)
Travelcar (%982 9206, 983 9369; fax 982 9462)
PMV
The main PMV stop is just across the main
road from the market. PMV 9, signed ‘Tokua’
on the windscreen, runs to the airport (K1.20,
infrequent). This bus tends to meet the larger
Air Niugini flights. Guesthouses and hotels
can provide transfers (K30).
PMV 1 runs along the coast road past
the Karavia barge tunnel (K1.50), to Rabaul
(K2.50). Take PMV 2 to Warangoi (K3). PMV
3 goes to Vunadidir (K2) and Toma (K3),
offering the chance to see the inland of the
Gazelle Peninsula and perhaps a glimpse
of the Baining mountains. PMV 5 goes to
Keravat (K4) and Kabaira Bay (K5). PMV
8 goes to Vunapope and Takubar (60t). For
Bita Paka War Cemetery, take PMV 9 and
ask the driver to drop you there (K1.50) The
 218 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 219

return trip is a bit more tricky; you’ll have to enjoy wonderful views of Blanche Bay with kastom (custom) price. You’ll also find a mains were beatified by John Paul II in 1995.
wait for the bus, or walk to the main coastal Tavurvur volcano as a fantastic backdrop. Get small Chinese cemetery beside the Karavia It’s moving to see a multitude of families in
road. Start early. your camera ready! About 500m to the west, Bay Tunnels. pressed shirts, print dresses and bare feet
you’ll come across a rusty Japanese Floating The huge form of Vulcan rises from the walk many miles to Sunday church.
From Kokopo to Rabaul Crane, which was bombed by the Allies. roadside. The last eruption occurred in 1994.
A poignant site, Bita Paka War Cemetery (hdawn- Along this stretch of road are count- It is possible to climb up it (ask at Rabaul Rabaul
dusk) contains the graves of over 1000 Allied war less Japanese tunnels, including Karavia Bay Hotel p221 for a guide). Be prepared to fall on your knees in awe: al-
dead, many of them Indian slaves. The gar- Tunnels, which were used as a hospital, and The Burma (Vuruga) Rd leaves the most the entire old town of Rabaul is buried
dens are lovely. It’s 8km off the main airport nearby Japanese Barge Tunnels (signposted KokopoRabaul Rd and climbs to Malmaluan in deep, black volcanic ash and looks like a
road; the turn-off (signposted) is about 2km ‘Japanese Tunnels, Chinese Cemetery’). Lookout (at the Telikom tower). The views movie set for an apocalyptic film or a Papuan
east of Rapopo Plantation Resort (p216). These tunnels were built to hold the are OK, and there’s an anti-aircraft gun and version of Pompeii. Who’s the bad boy re-
ISLAND PROVINCES

ISLAND PROVINCES
The coast road goes past Raluana Point, barges out of sight from the Allies. They howitzer. sponsible for this soul-stirring moonscape?
around Karavia Bay before squeezing be- were hauled to the water along rails by As the Burma Rd begins to dip towards Mt Tavurvur, which looms ominously to the
tween Vulcan and the hills, and then around Indian slaves (now buried at Bika Paka the coast, it passes through the Rakunai site east. On 19 September 1994 it erupted, spew-
Simpson Harbour to Rabaul. cemetery) in order to load shipping cargo. of Peter ToRot’s cemetery and memorial church. ing huge amounts of ash over Rabaul, and the
Starting from Kokopo, you’ll first drive The main tunnel contains five rusty barges, Peter ToRot was a village priest who was Simpson Harbour and Karavia Bay area. It
past Blue Lagoon Lookout, from where you can lined up nose to tail; bring a torch and K5 killed by the Japanese in July 1945. His re- reduced the landscape to an alien prehistoric
desert. It’s still active; you can see it belch huge
0 8 km plumes of smoke into the sky.
GAZELLE PENINSULA 0 4 miles Rabaul is not completely dead, though.
There’s now a bit of life that’s evident a block
Watom I
or so inland along the whole road. East of
Tavui
Makada I here, Rabaul is still mostly abandoned, bar a
Point
Submarine Base; few hotels that survived the Tavurvur erup-
Guns & Relics Makada Harbour
BISMARCK SEA tion in 1994. Thanks to the deep water (and
Rd

Kokopo’s shallow water), Rabaul’s port facili-

Nonga

Kakukur Duke of York I ties keep the town alive.

Nonga Tovanumbatir
(North Daughter;
extinct)
It’s definitely worth staying a few days in
Cape
Liguan Vulcanology Rabuana Foul Rabaul to soak up the surreal atmosphere
Observatory Bay
and let your imagination try to recreate the
S
North Coast Matalau
Rd Liguan Kabakada Pila Pila

t
Bay Talili Bay
Ratung
Nodup
dramatic events that occurred here.
(404m) North Coast RABAUL
Rd

Rabaul Bai
Re mb Malaguna Nakaia Ulu I
ar Kombiu
INFORMATION

G
Ra Simpson (Mt Mother; 688m)
ng See Rabaul Harbour

e
Shipwreck
To Ura I e Map (p216)
Hot Springs
o
Kabakon I The Bank South Pacific (%982 1744; h8.45am-3pm
r
Shipwreck The
Turangunan
Tavurvur (South Daughter; 475m) g Kerawara I
Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) changes cash and travellers
Beehives e cheques and can do cash advances on your
Kokop

(last erupted Praed Point

Matupit 1994) s See Duke of York Group
Kabaira Kabaira Beach I
Matupit Harbour Map (p221) credit card. The post office is in Top Kai su-
o – Rabaul Rd

Bay Hideaway Vulcan Point

Vulcan
Blanche
Pigeon
I C permarket. If you want to log on to the inter-
h
Rd

(last erupted
Rakunai
1994) Bay Big Pigeon
I
a
n n
net, ask at your hotel.
t Karavia Bay Tunnels;
Coas Shipwreck Raluana CREDNER IS
e l
Japanese Barge Tunnels;
Chinese Cemetery Point
Karavia Bay
SIGHTS
North

Malmaluan Floating Ko
Lookout Crane ko
po Seaview
First things first: Simpson Harbour – once
Blue Lagoon
Bu

Lookout –
Ra Beach crusted with pumice – is still magnificent,
rm

ba Resort Cape
a

(Vuruga) Rd Rapopo Kabakaul

Ke
ra
ul
Rd Plantation Bay Gazelle and the anchored ships lie quietly in the still
Lowland Agricultural Resort
va
tR
ive
Experimental Station KOKOPO Shipwreck water. The Beehives, the tiny craggy islands in
r
Vunakabi Vunapope Kabakaul
Tokua its middle, look striking from any angle.
Keravat There are tunnels and caverns in the hill-
See Kokopo
Map (p210) sides around Rabaul. Admiral Yamamoto’s Bunker
(locked) is interesting though austere, and
Toma
the placards near it are informative. There’s a
Vunakokor
(Mt Varzin;
map on the ceiling for plotting world domina-
605m; extinct) tion. Just next door is New Guinea Club & Rabaul
Bita Paka
War Cemetery Museum (admission K5). Established in 1933, this
Kabanga
Bay
club was a businessmen’s club with strict
Kabanga guidelines for membership. It was destroyed
 220 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 221

in WWII and rebuilt in the 1950s to its former the forgiveness of the local people. There’s a did reefs. The main drawback is the location; if oRabaul Hotel (%982 1999; www.rabaul
glory only to be destroyed again by fire in smashing view from here. you’re based in Rabaul, you’ll have to fork out hotel.com.pg; Mango Ave; d K72-308; ais) Hands-
1994. It has been partly restored and is now A$40 for transfers, or take a PMV (40 min- down, this is the best-value option on the
home to a small museum. Ask at the Rabaul ACTIVITIES utes). If you’re a keen diver, it’s best to base Gazelle Peninsula. It’s run by Australians
Hotel (opposite) for the key. It’s almost too good to be true: Simpson yourself at the Kabaira Beach Hideaway. Bruce and Susie, who have an eye on every-
Another worthwhile site is the Vulcanology Harbour offers several first-class wreck dives, There’s another professional dive centre, thing and ensure the place is kept shipshape.
Observatory, about 900m off Tunnel Hill Rd, while the reefs off the western tip of Gazelle Rapopo Dive (see p215), in Kokopo. For starters, it has a wide array of prices, from
from where you can enjoy million-dollar Peninsula are totally unspoiled and positively Good snorkelling areas include Submarine very simple, boxy yet economical rooms to
views over the bay and the volcanoes. festooned with healthy, hard and soft corals, Base, the Pigeons, the Beehives and Duke of very comfy, large units with all the mod
Namanula Road was the road that directly sponges, gorgonians and a dizzying array of York Islands. Taklam Lodge (p215) and Rabaul cons – take your pick. Other strong points
connected the northern coast to Rabaul, rising tropical fish: a perfect combination. See p58 Hotel (right) can arrange snorkelling trips. include the wide array of tours on offer, qual-
ISLAND PROVINCES

ISLAND PROVINCES
over the great caldera’s rim. It runs east out for more information on diving. For land lubbers, there are various hiking ity meals at the onsite restaurant, a convivial
of Rabaul off Mango Ave and used to meet Run by the capable Stephen Woolcott, options around Rabaul (p223). bar and a buzzing disco. One minus: the pool,
the north coast road near Matalau. It’s some- Kabaira Dive Rabaul (%983 9266; www.kabairadive covered with ash, is a sad joke. A winner, and
times impassable now further up. The Japanese

ὈὈὄὄὄ
.com.pg; 1/2 dives with tanks & weights A$75/120, with full TOURS it accepts credit cards.
Peace Memorial, the main Japanese memorial equipment A$120/165) is based at Kabaira Beach Rabaul Hotel (right) offers great and afford- Travelodge (% 982 1002; rtravelodge@online.net
in the Pacific, is dignified and testament to Hideaway (p224), a few finstrokes from splen- able possibilities including local WWII .pg; Namanuh Rd; r K85-121; a) This motel-like
heritage trips, hot-spring dips, village stays, venture has as much character as a newly
0 600 m
river-rafting trips, canoe/walking trips to see paved footpath. The furnishings are some-
RABAUL 0 0.4 miles the megapode colonies on Matupit Island what dated and the rooms are plain but
(K20) and Indiana Jonesstyle multiday roomy (request a ‘presidential’). Some have

ὄὄὄ
A B C D
To Vulcanology Observatory (1.5km);
Kabaira Dive Rabaul (30km) Vesters St
jungle treks across the Baining Mountains, a mildewy smell; if you have a sharp nose,
Catholic through one of the most biodiverse forests sniff out a few before deciding. Never mind,
Rd
Tu l Rd

16 Church
Bates
Hil

Second 22nd St
on earth. The route follows the retreat of the
nn

it’s serviceable and at these prices, it would

St
el

1 Malaguna Rd Malaguna Rd Malaguna Rd

Australians as they fled the Japanese. be churlish to complain.
Bay
po

15
St
Rd oko

St
Ge

e
Blanch Clelan 8 Apex Lookout
Other reputable outfits:
K

Kaivuna Resort Hotel (%982 1860; kaivunahotel@

org

d D
ve
es

17 Wreck Av Kamarere St
See Enlargement Customs e Kabaira Beach Hideway (%983 9266; www.kabaira global.net.pg; Mango Ave; r K110-310; ai) A good
Casuarina Ave

Wharf

Ὀὄὄὄ
Wharf Queen To Matalau
To
Main Elizabeth .com; Kabaira Bay) Offers fishing trips, bushwalking in second fiddle to the Rabaul Hotel (above), this
Wharf Park Rd
ula

Park St
Kokopo the Baining Mountains, village visits and ‘survival-type’ squarish building is nothing flash, but it’s calm,
Kombiu Ave

2
an

3
Mango Ave

(30km) Clarke St
m

camping trips on offshore islands. tidy and well managed. Rooms are ordinary but
Na

Court St
Bates St

Namanula Rd
Paivu Tours (%982 1059; paivu@daltron.com.pg;
Tu

bright and well furnished. Funkadelic murals

Page St

badly damaged To Kombiu

nn

beyond memorial (Mt Mother)

e

Malaguna Rd) add a splash of gaiety in the corridors. Rooms

l H

4 Market 7 Hiking Trail

i

13
ll

(500m)
Namanula Rd Rabaul Adventure & Historical Tours (%982 2206; 17, 18, 20, 21 and 22 have the best views. The
Rd

2 Malaguna Rd 5

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
To 11 14 1 10 rabauladventure@global.net.pg) Based at Travelodge (right). pièce de résistance, though, is the well-tended
Rd

Kokopo 9 Tavur St
swimming pool – the perfect salve after a long
po

Wha

Sulphur Creek Rd
ko
Ko

Shipwreck FESTIVALS & EVENTS day sightseeing or walking. Other perks include
rf R
St

12 Vulcan
For details on the Warwagira Festival, see a restaurant and a bar. Accepts credit cards.
e

d
ch

St
Do
an

0 200 m
w
p215. Its location alternates between Kokopo
Bl

Rd apia 0 0.1 miles

Vulcan St

and Rabaul. EATING

Rabaul doesn’t exactly suffer from an embar-

ὄὄὄ
ὄ
INFORMATION
Bank of South Pacific....................1 B2 Simpson
SLEEPING rassment of riches when it comes to dining
Volcanic Ash
3
Post Office...............................(see 10) Harbour This is ground zero; staying here rather than options, which are pretty much confined to
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Deep
Volcanic Ash
Kokopo gives you that ‘I was there’ feeling. hotel restaurants and a few kai bars. There
Admiral Yamamoto's Bunker........2 C2 Sulphur Barike Lodge (%982 1034; Malaguna Rd; s without
Japanese Peace Memorial............ 3 D2 Queen Emma Restaurant...........(see 7) Creek Unexcavated
are also several well-stocked supermarkets,
New Guinea Club & Rabaul Rabaul Bakery............................10 B2 Roads bathroom K60-80, d without bathroom K80-100; a) Head open Monday to Saturday and some on
Museum................................(see 2) The Phoenix Room....................(see 6)
here if you’re seriously strapped for cash and Sunday morning. They include Tropicana

ὄὄὄ
Paivu Tours................................(see 8)
Rabaul Adventure & Historical
Tours.....................................(see 7)
Tropical Lunch Haus...................11 B2
Tropicana Supermarket.............. 12 A2 want to be right in the thick of things – it’s Supermarket and Zero Supamarket.
Yacht Club................................. 13 C2
a betel nut’s throw from the market. Rooms Yacht Club (Mango Ave; mains K10-20; hlunch
Sulph

Zero Supamarket........................14 B2
SLEEPING are cramped, bedding is rudimentary and & dinner Fri, lunch Sat & Sun) Has burgers, pork
ur

Barike Lodge................................4 B2 DRINKING

Kaivuna Resort Hotel...................5 C2 Rabaul Hotel..............................15 C1 Japanese Betty
Ck
Rd the shared bathrooms…well, suffice it to say, chops, chicken and beef dishes. Vast, airy
4
Rabaul Hotel................................6 C1 Yacht Club..............................(see 13) Bomber
Rakunai
prepare to wear thongs (flip-flops). But it’s surrounds.
Travelodge...................................7 C2
SHOPPING Airport tolerable and safe, and location is everything. Chinese Restaurant (%982 2777; Malaguna Rd;
EATING
Chinese Restaurant.......................8 B1
PNG Diabetic Center...................16 B1 There’s a quirky bar at the back; the frescoed mains K10-25; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Not really
Kaivuna Resort Hotel Restaurant..(see 5) TRANSPORT walls alone are worth a gander. Food service a place to lift your spirits. The building is
Ling's Freezer...............................9 A2 Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships).......17 A1
To Matupit I on request. depressing, the dining room is oppressing
 222 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 223

by Paul Schwartz, who also works as a ‘diabetes semi-buried in earth, including a Japanese
DEAD TOWN counciller’, policeman and, should you need Betty Bomber (Map p220) and a helicopter.
Pre-1990s, Rabaul had a hustle and bustle, but it was a laid-back kind of place that was very to boost your morale, a psychotherapist. They are close to the Old Rakunai Airport (Map
friendly. It had the biggest market in the South Pacific, an orchid park, playgrounds and swim- p220) . The airport was completely destroyed
ming pools. GETTING THERE & AWAY during the 1994 eruption. Kastom fee is K5.
There was a great music scene in Rabaul and PNG’s thriving local music industry originated Rabaul is serviced by Tokua airport (p217). From there, you can easily reach the hot springs
there. Rabaul’s Pacific Gold Studios was the South Pacific’s first recording studio. Now Rabaul is For information about banana-boat travel (Map pp218–19) – an impressive sight amid
flattened – in 1994 it collapsed under the weight of 1m to 2m of Tavurvur’s volcanic load. around New Britain and through the nearby an eerie landscape that’s reminiscent of the
For several days after the eruption, there were severe earthquakes as Tavurvur and Vulcan islands, see p217. film Mad Max.
went at it, and Rabaul was evacuated. The dead of night would be broken by the sound of a Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; Kokopo %982 9480, Rabaul Can you see the two rocky pinnacles rising
building groaning as it eventually succumbed to the weight of ash on its roof. 982 1070/9480; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) has passenger from the centre of Simpson Harbour? They
ISLAND PROVINCES

ISLAND PROVINCES
However, the Rabaul Hotel is standing proof that most of the town could have been saved. boats sailing from Rabaul to Lae (K220 to K300, are called the Beehives (Map pp218–19M032), or
Over several days, the staff made a joint effort to clear the flat roof of the piling ash. Rabaul two weekly) via Kimbe (K110 to K200). It sails Dawapia Rocks, and are said to be the hard
was never swamped by lava, only by slowly piling ash that weighed as much as concrete. Rabaul to Buka (K130 to K250) on Wednesday and core of the original old volcano. You can visit
might have been dusted off without being very damaged with a round-the-clock shovelling effort Kavieng (K100 to K180) on Tuesday. It also them by boat and there is some good div-
and a bit of protection from the hundreds of looters who paraded around with new clothes and has infrequent services to Pomio in Jacquinot ing and swimming. When Captain Blanche
stereos immediately after the blast. Bay. In Kokopo, the office is next door to Zoma first visited Rabaul in 1882 these islands were
Look a few degrees higher and you can see the rim of the old caldera with its five volcanoes, Medical Clinic (p213). much larger; the bigger one had a village of
one still occasionally smoking, and remember where you are. Beneath the earth, under your 200 people. Taklam Lodge (p215) and Rabaul
feet, is the old town. GETTING AROUND Hotel (p221) can organise harbour cruises
Tokua airport is about 40km from the town. that take in the Beehives.
PMVs run out to Tokua and the better ho- For a picnic spot, nothing can beat the
(think bare, peeling walls and neon lighting) Rabaul Bakery (Malaguna Rd; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat) tels and guesthouses can provide transfers Submarine Base (Mapp218-19; admission K15) at Tavui
and the Chinese specialities are just average, The place to head to in case of hypoglycaemia, although you for K30. Point. The Japanese used to provision subma-
judging by the braised chicken. But it’s the have to get your timing right (early morning) to find pastries. There aren’t many PMVs on Sunday. PMV rines here during the war. There are tunnel
only independent restaurant in town. Tropical Lunch Haus (Malaguna Rd; mains K3-7; 1 goes from Rabaul to Kokopo (K2.50) and and rail track remnants below and guns and
Phoenix Room (%982 1999; Rabaul Hotel, Mango hlunch Mon-Sat) Another busy kai bar. back. PMV 6 goes to the vulcanology observa- relics (Map pp218–19M036) in the hills above, but
Ave; mains K20-50; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) When tory (inform the driver), submarine base and it was a ‘base’ in so far as the Japanese pulled
it comes to Asian cooking, chef Solis knows DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Nonga Hospital. PMV 5 goes to Rakunai their submarines up to the vertical wall and
his stuff. Chinese specialities are served The bar at Rabaul Hotel (p221) is the most (Peter ToRot’s memorial church) and PMV then surfaced allowing soldiers to walk off over
with absolute proficiency – the fluffiest foo popular watering hole in town. A mixed crowd 4 goes to Malmaluan Lookout. the reef. This site also makes for a wonder-
yongs (omelette) in PNG, guaranteed! The of locals, sailors, businesspeople, tourists and ful snorkelling spot; the coral bed is flat and
sweet-and-sour pork is another hot favourite. expats gather in this convivial rumpus room of Around Rabaul almost horizontal until it drops down a 75m
Western dishes, such as pork chops or beef a bar to play pool, or just lubricate their gullet The easiest way to visit the sights around vertical reef wall. As you swim over this drop,
stroganoff, also feature on the menu. There with a beer. On weekends Rabaul Hotel’s aptly Rabaul if you’re pressed for time is to take your heart races and it feels like you’re leaping
is a good choice of vegetarian options too; named Dark Room is packed to the rafters a day tour. Your hotel can arrange a vehicle off a skyscraper. Bring your snorkelling gear!
rare in PNG. If the service is longish, you can with revellers who tear it up on the dance floor and a guide. To get there, catch PMV 6 from the central
always gaze at some risqué oriental paintings (K15). Also worth investigating is the Yacht Club PMV stop opposite Rabaul’s new market on
on the walls or at the huge tambu (sacred) (h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat). The Jag SIGHTS Malaguna Rd.
wheel hanging from the ceilings. The Joker on Friday evening is very popular The September 1994 eruptions should have Between Rabaul and the Duke of York
Queen Emma Restaurant (%982 1002; Travelodge, and can be fun – be generous if you hit the destroyed little Matupit Island (Map pp21819M03) Group are the two Pigeons (Map pp21819M037) or
Namanuh Rd; mains K25-29; hlunch & dinner) Don’t jackpot! And if you don’t want to miss a game but the prevailing winds brought Tavurvur’s Credner islands. Small Pigeon is uninhabited.
let the swinging ’70s frilly curtains and neon of your favourite Rugby League team, this is the load over Rabaul and left this Island almost Either Island would make a pleasant excursion
lighting bring you down. This good honest place to go. During the week it’s usually pretty unscathed thanks, villagers say, to the local for a picnic or snorkel.
restaurant serves good honest meals. If you tame. You can also slake your thirst at the bars dukduks. The thousand-strong village com-
need to assuage carnivorous cravings, try the at Travelodge and Kaivuna Resort Hotel. munity still chooses to reside right under- ACTIVITIES
well-presented and tasty black pepper steak. neath the belching monster. You can hire a For the energetic, hiking up the volcanoes can
Kaivuna Resort Hotel restaurant (%982 1860; SHOPPING canoeist to get you around to see Tavurvur’s be fun and thrilling (though we don’t recom-
Mango Ave; mains K32-45; hlunch & dinner) This serves The reception areas of the hotels and guest- southern slopes (which have giant lava flows) mend climbing the smouldering Tavurvur as
up unambitious but tasty dishes. Chicken, fish houses sometimes sell bilums (string bags) from the water. It’s like a peek at a newborn it might blow up on you); they’re all tracked,
and pork are just some of the menu items. and small carvings. planet. The megapode-egg hunters are here, but there’s often a good chance of getting
Other options: Laugh all your want, but PNG Diabetic Centre burrowing almost 2m into the black sand to lost – your best bet is to take a guide from
Ling’s Freezer (Kokopo Rd; mains K3-7; hlunch (%982 1026; h8am-6pm) is a treasure trove for retrieve the eggs. In the same area, there’s Rabaul Hotel (from K20). If you want a recom-
Mon-Sat) This kai bar was recommended to us by locals artefact-hunters, with masks, necklaces, shells, quite a smattering of Japanese aircraft wreck- mendation, go for the 688m Kombiu (Mt Mother;
in the know. carvings and other souvenirs aplenty. It’s run age scattered among the palm trees and now Map p220). You’ll be up and down in 2½ hours
 224 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com N E W B R I TA I N • • W e s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 225

if you’re reasonably fit. The views from the anyway – there’s excellent swimming and must either spend a lot of money flying to tiny
top are truly heart-stopping. Don’t forget your snorkelling on the house reef and fantas-
DUKE OF YORK GROUP airstrips or catch banana boats and trade boats
0 4 km
camera. Another must-do is the Rabaul Nakaia, tic diving a 10-minute boat ride from the 0 2 miles
along the coast and stay in villages.
Mait Unanga I
which features the shortest climb (about 30 guesthouse. Three stand-alone bungalows Palipal Mait Iri I From Port Moresby, Air Niugini (%983
Port Hunter
minutes from the base of the volcano); beware were in the process of being built at the Makada I Urakuk
Piuka
5287) flies to and from Hoskins (K518, once
once you’ve reached the narrow rim of the time of writing. Food is fresh and tasty. Watering Pt
Makada
daily) and Kokopo (K330). There are also two
caldera – it’s easy to feel dizzy and lose your There’s an onsite dive centre (p220), and a Harbour Urakukur
Kabilomu
weekly flights to Kavieng (K373) and three to
balance. The slopes of Vulcan (Map pp21819M0167) host of activities can be arranged, including Watara Pt Lae (K436).
are a bit trickier; they are scored with deep Robinson Crusoestyle picnics on nearby Kakukur Duke of York I Waira Pt Airlink used to fly to Rabaul and Lae, but
cracks from mud-ash drying and contracting, islands. Payment is by cash only. It’s about Kabakabiui
Watara the airline was not operating at the time of
which can be 4m to 5m deep. They can be hard 40 minutes from Rabaul on PMV 5. Nabual Berard Pt
writing. Check it out while you’re there –
ISLAND PROVINCES

to spot now they’re vegetated.
There are excellent walking routes around
Rabaul, and you can spend hours just walking
around the town overawed by its complete
annihilation.
You can hike down to Matupit Island
(p223) and back (although someone will
probably offer you a lift) and the views from
the vulcanology observatory (Map pp21819M0168)
also make it a rewarding walk.
If you’re fit you can climb Namanula Rd
to meet the north coast road near Matalau.
From here you can head north along the coast
road, which rises over a pass and meets the
NongaSubmarine Base Rd. PMV 6 runs
regularly to Nonga hospital and sometimes
beyond. Or you could walk the whole loop
over Tunnel Hill Rd and take in the vulcan-
ology observatory along the way. This would
take about a day.
Rabaul Hotel (p221) offers white-water
rafting trips on the scenic Warangoi River
amid spectacular jungle scenery – you’ll feel
teletransported to the Amazon. No need to
be sporty – you’ll paddle at approximately
5km/h on an inflatable, a canoe, a tyre tube
or man-made bamboo rafts, and there are
no graded rapids. A full-day trip will set you
back K200.
SLEEPING & EATING
Kabaira Beach Hideaway (Map pp218-19; %983 9266;
www.kabairadive.com.pg; Kabaira Bay; s with 3 meals A$90;
i) Entering the property, you feel you’ve
stumbled onto the set of Little House on the
Prairie. Run by an Australian man, Stephen,
this quaint resort radiates a ramshackle air,
and combines friendly informality and a
splendid setting. The accommodation is on
the beachfront in a simple, five-room house.
The plain, shoebox-sized rooms could do
with a little freshening up and the lack of
private facilities might not be to everyone’s
taste, but you probably won’t be inside much
Jacquinot Bay
This ruggedly beautiful, little-developed re-
gion on the south coast of New Britain is the
place to go if you want to lose yourself in vir-
tually unexplored terrain. There are enormous
caves and underwater lakes that are just crying
out to be discovered. Should you manage to
get to this remote area, you can park your
grungy backpack at Pisiua Guesthouse (%982
9279 in Rabaul; Manginum; s incl 3 meals K35) or at Koki
Women’s Guesthouse (%981 9366 in Rabaul; Palmalmal;
s incl 3 meals K100).
You can get there by flying to Pomio from
Hoskins (K330, 30 minutes). Rabaul Shipping
(Star Ships; p223) may have services from
Hoskins to Pomio.
Duke of York Group
This is the tambu (forbidden or sacred) cock-
pit between New Ireland and the Gazelle
Peninsula Tolais, a place of secret men’s busi-
ness, dukduks and tumbuans.
These islands are beautiful and accessible,
but they are little developed. There are no
vehicles on any of the islands except Duke
of York Island. Mioko Island is the best one
to visit, with a smattering of sights, includ-
ing good beaches, two open-pit caves on the
Island’s eastern flank and a coastwatcher’s
lookout cut into the clifftop nearby on the
easternmost point.
For many years during the war, hundreds
of people hid in these caves to avoid being
press-ganged by the Japanese. Nearby, a tiny
tunnel runs between the two cliff faces of the
Island’s eastern tip. You can crawl between
(it’s rough going) for two views of the open
sea and sky, and the cruel cliff below you. If
you want to snorkel, try the southern coast,
but it’s only good in calm conditions.
There is a rudimentary homestay on
Mioko and a guesthouse on Ulu. Bring along
some food.
Foul
Bay
Ruruan
I
Ulu I
Mioko
Harbour Mualim I
Kabakon
Kerawara Utuan
Mioko
I
Harbour I
Palpal
Mioko I
Kerawara I
GETTING THERE & AWAY
If you’re lucky, you’ll share the fare with locals,
but otherwise, a (very splashy) 50-minute trip
to the Duke of York Islands from Rabaul costs
K30, and the two-hour trip to the west coast of
New Ireland costs K50. Only go on a calm day;
there have been deaths in these waters when
high seas have rolled banana boats.
Organised tours are the easiest and most
convenient way of exploring the archipelago
and, if you happen upon a nice group, make
for a wonderful day. Check with Taklam
Lodge (p215).
WEST NEW BRITAIN PROVINCE
If you read this section, there’s a great chance
that you’re a diver heading to Kimbe Bay.
Kimbe Bay has become a byword for un-
derwater action, with an amazing array of
marine life and sensational reefs brushing
the surface. However, there is life above
the water as well, with some spectacular
volcanoes brooding in the background
and a handful of WWII relics. WNB has
the country’s greatest proliferation of
volcanoes – five active and 16 dormant –
and you can literally smell the sulphur in the
air. It’s also PNG’s highest timber and palm-
oil exporter with consequent tension between
the province’s villagers and settlers.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Hoskins airport is well serviced by the first-
and second-level airlines, but beyond here you
ISLAND PROVINCES
another airline might have re-opened these
routes.
Mangrove Creek
Kabiatarai Boat
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %983 5365) sails to
Lae (K120 to K200, overnight, daily) and
Rabaul (K110 to K200, twice weekly). Book
at the wharf.
GETTING AROUND
There are a few 4WD logging roads (in the dry
season) leading towards the rugged and vir-
tually unexplored mountains of the interior.
Public transport is limited to PMVs between
Hoskins and Kimbe (K7, 40 minutes).
Hoskins
The picturesquely located ‘major’ airport of
WNB is 40km east of Kimbe. There are a
number of forested volcanoes surrounding
town, including the active Mt Pago. Located
a short distance inland, at Koimumu, there’s
an active geyser field.
Kimbe
Kimbe is the provincial headquarters and
a major centre for palm-oil production.
Although it has a seafront, it’s a fairly unas-
suming town with no real interest for travel-
lers. But there’s Kimbe Bay. Ah, Kimbe Bay.
With its unique seamounts capped with coral
towers reaching the surface, it has earned its
celebrity status among divers and snorkellers
around the world.
The marine biodiversity is stunning, with
more than 350 types of hard coral and 860
species of fish vying for your attention.
Drift along the reefs and enjoy the ultimate
underwater drama.
INFORMATION
The Bank South Pacific and Westpac banks
are one block south (inland) of Kmart su-
permarket. Both are equipped with ATMs
 226 N E W B R I TA I N • • W e s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e
(Visa and MasterCard). East of here is the
post office and daily market.
SLEEPING & EATING
If you intend to do a lot of diving, it makes more
sense to base yourself at Walindi Plantation
Resort (opposite) or Queen’s Head (right).
But if you have to be in Kimbe itself…
Liamo Reef Resort (%983 4366; liamoresort@global
.net.pg; s K165-400, d K300-400; ai) Situated on the
beach at the eastern end of town, this is a good
ISLAND PROVINCES
deal if you’re after some cosseting in a serene
environment. Liamo offers a range of accom-
modation from functional, spick-and-span
rooms in a concrete building to larger stand-
alone bungalows. The most appealing feature
is probably the verdant setting; the owner is
a keen gardener, and it shows. Pity about the
aviary, though – release those captive eagles!
The beach is only average, but there’s good
swimming. The restaurant (mains K20 to K45,
open breakfast, lunch and dinner) has gar-
nered high praise for its Chinese specialities.
Vehicle hire can be organised and credit cards
are accepted. Liamo also has a fishing lodge
in far-off Baia (opposite).
Kimbe Bay Hotel (%983 5001; www.kimbebayhotel
.com; r K195-240; ai) Kimbe’s most comfort-
able, central hotel is really nothing amazing,
but it’s fine for a snooze before an early boat.
It’s just opposite the container terminal, so
forgo dreamy views. Rooms are commodious,
well appointed and come equipped with satel-
lite TV but score zero on our charm metre.
Surprise: the restaurant (mains K16 to K30;
open breakfast, lunch and dinner) serves up
good Indian dishes (the owner is of Indian
descent). Credit cards are accepted. Airport
transfers are K35 (one-way).
San Remo Club (%983 4600; mains K10-20; hlunch
Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) We love this place – it feels
so anachronistic. It’s the most ‘happening’
spot in town, not far from Liam Reef Resort.
Chat with old expats who are almost a fix-
ture here, catch the breeze from the terrace,
sip a cold beer while gazing on smouldering
Mt Garbuna in the distance, or enjoy a well-
prepared chicken schnitzel.
SHOPPING
It’s worth stopping at Le Riche Colours (%983
4990, 983 4136; www.picturetrail.com/leriche; Kimbe)
if you are after some original souvenirs.
Artist Nathalie Le Riche has very colour-
ful hand-painted T-shirts, tribal stickers,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
gifts cards, placemats and other gifts that
feature tribal portraits, market scenes and
underwater compositions.
Talasea, Kimbe Bay & the Willaumez
Peninsula
As public transport is virtually non-existent,
your best bet to visit Talasea and the Willaumez
Peninsula is to arrange a tour through the
Walindi Plantation Resort (opposite).
Talasea is an active volcanic region set in
a dramatic landscape. Lake Dakataua, at the
tip, was formed in a colossal eruption in 1884.
It’s definitely worth seeing two WWII plane
wrecks that lie partially disintegrated in the
jungle near Talasea. There’s a Mitchell B-25
Bomber and a Lockheed Vega Ventura – an
impressive sight.
If you need to relax, it’s well worth dipping
your toes in the Garu Hot River. Waters are com-
fortably warm and there’s a mini-waterfall.
Outdoorsy types might consider trekking up
the active Mt Garbuna. The area also offers
excellent bird-watching possibilities.
Everything you need to know about Kimbe
Bay’s marine environment and coral reef
habitats should become clear at the Mahonia
Na Dari Conservation Centre (%983 4241; Kimbe
Bay; www.mahonia.org; admission free; h 9am-5pm
Mon-Sat), next door to the Walindi Plantation
Resort. This marine research centre is open
to the public.
Apart from the superb natural surround-
ings and rare birds, the main attraction here
is the unsurpassable diving in Kimbe Bay.
You might see anything from a tiny glass
shrimp, to a pod of killer whales. The Walindi
Plantation Resort has a very professional dive
centre (%983 5441; www.walindi.com). Expect to pay
US$70 for a single dive, US$130 for two dives
and US$170 for three dives. See p59 for more
information on diving.
SLEEPING & EATING
Queen’s Head (% 983 4566; s incl breakfast K70)
Is this the most bizarre lodging option in
PNG? Peter Prior is British, and it shows. His
mock-Tudor tavern ought to be in an English
village, but has been enchanted onto a jungle-
encroached beach. It’s simple but clean, has
four rooms and a share kitchen, and…horse
brasses. See it to believe it. It appeals to back-
packers and divers on a budget. It’s 2km east
of Walindi Plantation Resort. Call direct or
contact Walindi Plantation Resort.
lonelyplanet.com
Walindi Plantation Resort (%983 5441; www
.walindi.com; s/d US$140/214, s/d bungalow incl 3 meals
US$225/330; i) This well-established resort
run by Max and Cecilie Benjamin is highly
recommended for divers because of its full-
service onsite dive centre and great location,
and its easy access to famous dive sites in
Kimbe Bay. Things are very tasteful here, but
almost unbelievably casual as well, reflected
in the individual, beautifully attired, tradi-
tional-style bungalows hidden among the
junglelike foliage. There are also four cheaper,
more utilitarian rooms in a separate building.
The service is of high standard and the food
is copious, varied and excellent. The beach
is only so-so, but there’s an alluring pool.
Evening entertainment is low-key, consist-
ing mainly of a few beers at the delightful
poolside bar, and an early night in prepara-
tion for the next day’s diving activity. Bird
watchers and honeymooners will also feel
welcome here. Various tours in the area can
be arranged.
Around West New Britain Province
A terra incognita for travellers, the south-
western part of the Island is hard to reach.
At the time of research, there was no regular
public transport available beyond Hoskins.
Airlink used to service Kandrian but had
gone bust at the time of writing. Another
airline might have stepped in by the time
you read this – check it out while in PNG.
Also check with Rabaul Shipping (Star
Ships; p223).
Mt Langila, on Cape Gloucester at the
southwestern end of the Island, is still ac-
tive and hiccups and rumbles every few
months.
Sportfishing enthusiasts should make a
beeline for Baia Sportfishing Lodge (%983
5567; www.baiafishingpng.com; 6-night package per
person from A$3542), a reputable, high-standard
fishing lodge in remote Baia that attracts
Ernest Hemingway fans. It’s run by Liamo
Reef Resort (opposite) in Kimbe. The
numerous river systems are home to the in-
famous black bass and spot tail bass, and the
neighbouring coral reefs are a playpen for reef
and pelagic species, including tuna, wahoo,
giant trevally, marlin and sailfish among the
prime catches. There’s a minimum stay of four
nights. Prices include fishing gear, boat and
guide, as well as transfers to Hoskins airport
(about 4½ hours by boat).
N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • H i s t o r y 227
NEW IRELAND PROVINCE
Forget the 21st century in New Ireland. It
really isn’t important whether your friends
believe that you re-enacted your Swiss Family
Robinson fantasies on a remote island, dis-
cussed the fine art of carving with a master
carver, acquainted yourself with the intriguing
traditions of Malagan, stayed in a traditional
guesthouse amid a landscape that belongs
ISLAND PROVINCES
to the dinosaur age, and witnessed a shark-
calling ceremony. It’s just important that you
savour the uplifting experiences.
Few other places in PNG can boast such
an interesting and accessible pick ’n’ mix of
nature, culture and landscapes. Sure, New
Ireland doesn’t offer the thrill of puffing vol-
canoes (in this respect, New Britain steals the
show), but it boasts broad white-sand beaches
and rivers of clear water tumbling down
from the thickly forested central Schleinitz
Range and a clutch of secluded islands off
the ‘mainland’.
For fans of traditional cultures, New
Ireland is an unmissable destination. In
the rugged south is the spiritual home of
Tumbuan culture. The north is home to
Malagan, while Kabai culture dominates in
the central areas.
And there’s the wonderfully down-to-
earth, unfussy atmosphere. New Ireland is
far less developed than New Britain. Once you
cross St Georges Channel, which separates
the islands, you’ll notice the laid-back vibe,
the more sedate pace of life and a greater em-
phasis on the old ways. Outside Kavieng and
Namatanai, the only towns of consequence,
there are coastal communities on each side of
the Island but no real settlements bigger than
a trade store or two.
The good thing is that you can mix slow-
paced sun-and-sand holidays with action-
packed experiences. For outdoorsy types,
the pursuit of choice is scuba diving, on an
equal footing with surfing. Kayaking, sport
fishing, snorkelling and even cycling (yes!)
are available.
History
The remains of rock shelters found near
Namatanai suggest that New Ireland was in-
habited 30,000 years ago. Missionaries began
arriving in 1875 along with blackbirders who
forcibly removed many New Irelanders to
 228 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • G e o g r a p h y & C l i m a t e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g 229

work on the plantations and cane fields of
Queensland (Australia) and Fiji.
A villainous crew, blackbirders often posed
as missionaries to coax men aboard, killing
them offhand if they revolted. One slaver even
impersonated the bishop of Melanesia; the
real incumbent, believed to be an imposter,
was later killed in vengeance! Meanwhile,
the shortage of males devastated village life
in places.
Cannibalism and head-hunting were
ISLAND PROVINCES
Geography & Climate
New Ireland is mountainous and rid-
dled with huge, flooded caves. Midway
down the Island, the Lelet Plateau rises
to 1481m and further south, near Taron,
the Hans Meyer Range reaches 2399m. A
faultline provides passage for the Weitin
and Kamdaru rivers.
The area between Namatanai and Kavieng
receives about 3m of annual rainfall and has
a dry season between May and November.
Getting Around
There are about six cross-Island routes, but
most of them are in a very bad shape for
lack of proper maintenance. The most useful
ones for travellers are the Namatanai (east
coast) to Rasirik (for Uluputur) on the west
coast, as well as the Fangalawa (east coast)
to Lamusmus (west coast, for Tembin and
Kontu) leg.
KAVIENG
Has erratic opening hours. Can arrange bookings for village
stays by radio (or any other means).
Police (%984 2044, 984 2054)
Post office (Coronation Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to
11am Sat)
Telikom (Coronation Rd; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to
4pm Fri) Sells phonecards and mobile prepaid cards. Card-
operated phones outside (removed after hours).
Visitors Information Centre (airport) A small counter
at the airport. Well-informed staff. It’s open to meet
arriving flights.

ISLAND PROVINCES
rife. Even a death from disease was often December to March is the cyclone season Being the capital of New Ireland, Kavieng is Westpac (%984 2030; Coronation Rd; h9am-3pm
attributed, from certain ‘signs’, as the fault and can bring high seas. the only town of any size in the province, but Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Changes cash and travellers cheques,
of another tribe which might be mercilessly we’re hardly talking Shanghai – the tallest and can do cash advances on your credit card (MasterCard
attacked in revenge. In some communities, construction is the telecommunication tower, or Visa).
relatives smeared themselves with the blood Culture and the busiest shops operate very much on
of their deceased loved ones as part of the The people of New Ireland are Melanesian Melanesian time. If you proceed from Rabaul Sights
funeral rites. and speak 19 local languages. The north or Kokopo, you’ll find it remarkably low-key Pickings for sightseers are quite slim in
During the German reign, large copra plan- embodies the complex system of spiritual and quiet, with virtually no cars in the streets. Kavieng.
tations made New Ireland one of the most traditions of Malagan cultures. ‘Malangan’ The seaside ambience, with its fisheries and The golf course is a pleasant spot for a stroll,
profitable parts of the colony. The tyrannical also refers to the northern New Irelanders’ tranquil wharf, and the bustling market in the while the northern end of Nusa Pde provides
Baron Boluminski became district officer of carvings (see boxed text, below). shade of huge trees, create a dash of real life. the setting for a lovely waterfront walk; the
Kavieng in 1910 and built the highway that In the Island’s south are the Tumbuan Kavieng itself won’t fulfil all your fantasies huge fig trees almost meet overhead. If you
bears his name by forcing each village along traditions. The people from the south in- of a tropical paradise, but it’s optimally situ- keep heading north of the Malagan Beach
the coast to construct and maintain a section. vaded the Gazelle Peninsula and settled ated as a springboard to neighbouring islands, Resort, you will reach the intimate surrounds
He made villagers push his carriage over any the Duke of York Group several hundred including Nusa Lik Island and Lavongai (New of Patailu village.
deteriorated sections. years ago. Dukduks and tumbuans are Hanover), and for explorations of the mystify- The southern section of Nusa Parade con-
New Ireland fell to the Japanese in 1942 and common to all three cultures. Around ing east and west coasts. There’s good snorkel- tinues past the market and further along on the
Kavieng was developed into a major Japanese Namatanai and central New Ireland are ling and kayaking offshore and there’s plenty left are the provincial government buildings, built
military base. Most of the Australians in the Kabai traditions, which are not yet as of great diving in the area – not to mention on the site of Baron Boluminski’s residence.
Kavieng managed to escape, but some chose well understood. excellent surf-breaks that issue a siren’s call The closest thing Kavieng has to a regular
to stay behind as coastwatchers (spies). As in most PNG islands, traditional to surfers. ‘sight’ is the Bagail Cemetery, where Boluminski
The Allies made no attempt to retake New clan power is wielded by chiefs or big- was buried. The tough guy’s grave is right
Ireland but rather bombed it into oblivion. men (important men or leaders), but clan Orientation before you as you enter the cemetery.
The Japanese surrendered in Namatanai on rites and land claims are passed on in a The town is spread out. Coronation Rd con- Kavieng has a large and beautiful harbour.
19 September 1945. matrilineal system. nects the airport road (Stanfield St) and the You can go down to the waterfront and catch
Boluminski Hwy with the waterfront. Just a banana boat out to one of the many islands.
across from the beach are Nusa and Nusa New Sulaman makes for a good picnic and snor-
MALAGAN DEATH RITES Lik islands. kel. You can negotiate a ‘drop me off, pick me
For centuries, it has been kastom for the Malagan to carve wooden masks and sacred figures for up later’ trip. The cost is about K30 each way
their mortuary rites. There are a few dedicated regular carvers on Tabar Island and Libba village Information for the whole boat.
near Konos; otherwise, carvings are done only by secret men’s societies for mortuary ceremonies Kavieng is the only place on the Island where
or rites of passage in the villages. you can change money – stash cash if you plan Activities
Different clans have different funerary traditions, including interment, cremation and burial at to explore the east or west coasts. Good news for the skittish: Kavieng is rife
sea. The tatanu or tanuatu (soul) remains close to the body after death and it cannot go to the Bank South Pacific (%984 2066; Coronation Rd; with outdoor activities.
ancestors’ world until the mortuary rites are performed. The spirit of a dead person enters the h8.45am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8.45am-4pm Fri) Changes cash Calling all surfers! Kavieng has an up-
ancestors’ world through the places that masalais (spirits of the bush and water) inhabit. and travellers cheques, and offers Visa cash advances. and-coming surf scene (luckily it’s still a
Feasts are often performed for more than one person as they are terribly expensive. Those Bisi Electrical & Stationary (Lavogai St; per hr K30; fairly secret surfing Nirvana), with a good
deceased long ago can be included in the rite, which includes chanting, masked dancing, clouds h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Internet café. One range of reef-breaks, both lefts and rights, that
of lime and a huge feast. computer only; slow connections. are easily accessible. They vary in difficulty,
Masks may depict the totem animal of a specific tribe in stages of metamorphosis. Such was KPE Stationary (per hr K48; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, depending on the size and direction of the
the fearful power of the mask that, in the past, they were burned after the ceremony. Designs are to noon Sat) Internet café. One computer only; slow swell. From November to late April, swells of
strictly ‘patented’ according to clan rites, and a complex ritual payment must be made to pass a connections. up to 2.4m are not unheard of. What makes
design on to another carver. The problem is, there are simply not enough young apprentices. New Ireland Tourist Bureau (%984 2441; www surfing here so unique is the lack of crowds –
.newirelandtourism.org.pg; Tanga St; h7.45am-4pm) utter bliss if you come from, say, Bali. Even
 230 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g 231

0 400 m in action-packed passages and thriving sail to a week-long charter trip around
KAVIENG 0 0.2 miles
reefs. Lissenung Island Resort (%984 2526; www Lavongai archipelago.
To Patailu
A B C D .lissenung.com; 1 boat/2-tank dive A$55/100, equipment Other sporting opportunities include

Kulangi
Village

Frangipa
Thon

Tanga
g St
hire A$20; Lissenung Island) has a full-service dive canoeing and kayaking. You can hire a canoe

On
shop. Free pick-ups can be arranged from from Nusa Island Retreat (p232) and pad-

t Rd
y INFORMATION
Hw

ni St
St
Bol
um South Pacific........................1 B2
Bank
ins Kavieng. Dorian and Cara run Scuba Ventures dle around Nusa Lik Island. Tailored guided

ki
ki
Bisi Electrical
1 To Namatanai Hw & Stationary.............2 B2

s
Djaul

min
y
(263km) KPE Stationary.........................(see 18) (%984 1244; www.scubakavieng.com; Nusa Pde), an ex- kayaking trips in the Lavongai (New
Nu

Bolu
New Ireland Tourist Bureau..........3 B2
sa

St
cellent dive shop on the waterfront. A single Hanover) area are also available.
Pd

Post Office...................................4 B2
l St
Mongo
e

18 Telekom.......................................5 B2 boat dive will set you back A$65 (A$125 for For cycling trips, see p236.
Lemus

Westpac Bank..............................6 B2
Lavongai
St a two-tank dive). An open-water certifica-
2
tion costs A$660. For more information on Tours
St

20
17
ISLAND PROVINCES

ISLAND PROVINCES
23 24 Regent Garage
Mas
anet 19 22
Kavieng
diving, see p59. Nusa Island Retreat (p232) and Adventure
St St
Nuguria 3
Courthouse Airport Kavieng has terrific sportfishing. Now is in Paradise – Yacht Charters (see opposite)
n Rd
15 6 natio Sta
5
4 9 Coro nfie your chance to tackle marlin, tuna, trevally, have a variety of tours, including snorkel-
1 Sports ld
St
2 14
Field
jack and sailfish. Run by Peter McEwan, ling and surfing trips, and can arrange land
St St
War
Memorial 12 Mu ssau Tench Pelagic Pursuits (%984 2349; pmcewan@global.net tours. Imajica (www.theimajicaexperience.com) offers
Lihir 13 .pg; Coronation Rd), located inside the Zen 48 high standard, week-long cruises off New

Cou
t
Emir
au S store in Kavieng, offers charter fishing trips. Ireland aboard a splendid 25m schooner, as
St
Tabar

rt R
St To Airport; The best area extends off the northern tip well as surfaris and diving trips.
d
Anir
Tce

Visitor's Information
Centre of Lavongai (New Hanover). Price starts at
Golf Course K2500 per day for four anglers. Festivals & Events
21
Another good way to reach secluded, idyl- The week-long Malagan festival is usually held
Anir St lic spots off Kavieng is by sailing. Adventure
Tang

8 in July or September and includes dances and

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
in Paradise Yacht Charters (opposite) can
a St

3 Bagail Cemetery...........................7 A5 feasting. Contact the Visitors Information

o St
Market.........................................8 A3 take you on anything from a half-day Centre in Kavieng (p229) for details.
Nag Pelagic Pursuits.............................9 B2
Provincial Government Buildings..10 A4
Harbour Scuba Ventures.......................... 11 A5

St SLEEPING VOICES: KEITH JAMES, SURFER

Enuk Kavieng Club..............................12 B2
10 Keith, an Australian in his 50s, is married to a Papua New Guinean woman, and has been living in
Kavieng Guesthouse.................. 13 D2
Ungan Rd
Kavieng Hotel.............................14 B2 New Ireland since 1980. A member of the Kavieng Surf Club, and a surfer himself, John fervently
Nusa Pde

Malagan Beach Resort............... 15 A2

Peter ToRot Centre....................16 B4 promotes Kavieng’s surfing potential and the advantages of the Surf Management Plan.
Court Rd

EATING
4 Kavieng Hotel..........................(see 14) What’s special about surfing in the Kavieng area? Our waves are not world-class by inter-
Malagan Beach Resort.............(see 15)
Catholic
Church 16 Market......................................(see 8)
national surfing standards, but we have what other countries, such as Indonesia or Fiji, don’t
International
Punter's Place.............................17 B2 have any more: uncrowded waves. It’s an absolute treat for surfers to ride an almost virgin wave,
Sot Kat.......................................18 B1
Wharf &
Customs
Paslogi Cre
s Tsang Sang Bakery.....................19 B2
without the pressure of other surf boats, and surfers can get this buzz here. We just want to
Lapangus Cre
Buildings s keep that. This is why we introduced a Surf Management Plan in 2004.
TRANSPORT
Wharf Rd Air Niugini..................................20 B2
11
Avis.........................................(see 15) What’s the principle of the Surf Management Plan? It’s a quota system. The maximum number
Banana Boats to Lavongai
(New Hangover).....................21 A3 of visiting surfers allowed to surf within the Kavieng Surf Management Area on any given day is
Banana Boats to Nusa Lik set at 20. Each individual surfer has to ensure that he or she is booked into the quota prior to

὆὆
5 Island...................................(see 21)
Drimas (Car Rental)....................22 B2 arrival in New Ireland by contacting the Kavieng Surf Club or any surf operator. There’s a daily

὆὆
Hertz........................................(see 15) fee of A$10. Thus we can guarantee uncrowded waves to visiting surfers. It’s very well received
7 Kavieng Hotel..........................(see 14)

὆὆
PMV Stop...................................23 B2 by the surfing community.
To Fisheries Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships).......24 B2
Buildings (200m);
Hospital (600m)
What’s the impact on local communities? We have established excellent relations with all the
communities involved. Part of the fees paid by surfers go to traditional landowners, who own the
if it’s growing in popularity, the Kavieng Surf are surf specialists and can arrange surf pack- surfing-break areas. This ensures that there’s no local harassment. It’s vital that local people get a
Club (kaviengsurfclub@global.net.pg) ensures that the ages) and the Kavieng Surf Club. Operated by cut of the pie and get a tangible benefit. We’re planning to extend the system to New Ireland’s
number of surfers is kept at a sustainable level a dynamic couple, Adventure in Paradise Yacht east coast and Lavongai (New Hanover), and we run an education program with villagers and
thanks to a surf quota system (see opposite). Charters (%984 1301; www.adventuresinparadise.com.pg; guesthouse owners who live near the surfing spots. It’s an integrated approach and a trade-off.
Among the most thrilling spots are Pikinini, Nusa Lik Island), next door to Nusa Island Retreat), By improving their standards, guesthouse owners will get more surfers, who in turn will be able
Karanas, Nago Island, Edmago Island, Long offers ‘surfaris’ in the area. to catch a glimpse of local life. For female surfers, this also means opportunities to interact with
Longs and Ral Island. For more information, No less impressive is diving, with a wide local women in the villages. It’s a win-win situation.
contact the guys at Nusa Island Retreat (they array of high-voltage sites. Expect drift dives
 232 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g
Sleeping
IN KAVIENG
Peter ToRot Centre (%984 2684; Tabar Terrace; dm K20,
d without bathroom K80) Though part of the church
compound, this rather depressing abode re-
sembling a warehouse is no epiphany for
travellers. The long corridor of windowless
rooms will make you feel like an extra in a
prison drama, and you’d have to be somewhat
masochistic to spend more than one night in
the cell-like four-bed dorms. Try to nab one
ISLAND PROVINCES
of the four doubles, which are more attractive
and get more natural light.
Kavieng Club (%984 2224; kaviengclub@global
.net.pg; Coronation Rd; s K77-154, d K88-198; a) A re-
liable budget stalwart, right in the centre.
The rooms, some fan-cooled, some with air-
con, fit the bill, even if the plumbing in the
bathrooms leaves something to be desired.
Wood floors and an oddly mismatched colour
scheme (bathrooms painted in blue, yellow-
ish walls and apple green furniture) in some
rooms add a touch of quirkiness. Room 1
is the best. There’s a bar and a garden area,
snooker tables and TV lounge area.
Kavieng Hotel (%984 2199; kavienghotel@daltron
.com.pg; Coronation Rd; s K90-365, d K105-400; a) This
longstanding favourite also has a split person-
ality. The very mundane, fan-cooled budget
rooms could use some TLC and the shared
bathrooms could do with an Air-Wick session
while the Deluxe and Standard rooms that
occupy the rear building are much more com-
fortable – good beds, private bathrooms, air-
con. There’s an onsite restaurant and bar.
Kavieng Guesthouse (%/fax 984 1165; Emirau St; s/d
incl breakfast K128/178; a) This family-run B&B in
a peaceful neighbourhood gets good marks for
cleanliness and offers seven unpretentious but
cosy rooms, some with private bathrooms.
Shame that some beds are so saggy. Meals are
available on request (from K40). Good value
if you can handle a sore back.
Malagan Beach Resort (%984 2344; www.malgan
resort.com; Nusa Pde; s/d K360/410; as ) The
Australian-run Malagan has a bit of an iden-
tity problem; it bills itself as a tourist resort
but it mostly attracts businesspeople, govern-
ment officials, visiting workers and expats.
The functional two-storey, barracks-style
building features 16 serviceable units facing
the sea. They come equipped with the requi-
site mod cons, including air-con and satellite
TV, but feel a bit sombre due to dark-wood
furniture. The grounds include a shady strip
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
of beach (nothing outstanding) overlooking
Nusa Island as well as a nice little pool and
a restaurant.
AROUND KAVIENG
Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; www.nusaisland
retreat.com.pg; Nusa Lik Island; s A$110-140, d A$120-155,
daily meals per person A$50) This tropical haven
has a heavy focus on surfers (owner Sean
is a dedicated surfer himself and a mine
of information), but families, couples and
those who just want to flake out in a serene
setting are all welcome. It’s as relaxed as its
sand-floor bar-restaurant suggests, and has
lots of thoroughly unpretentious charm. Its
traditional-style beachfront bungalows, some
over water, are well maintained. There’s lots
of cheeky birds too. There’s a good restaur-
ant and the staff arranges a host of activities
including surfing (the core activity), kayak-
ing, cycling, snorkelling and diving. There
are surf-breaks close by. During the surfing
season (November to April), there’s shared
accommodation (A$65 per person). It’s on
Nusa Lik Island, just 200m across from the
international wharf. Transfers are easily
arranged to Kavieng. Recommended.
Lissenung Island Resort (%984 2526; www.lis
senung.com; Lissenung Island; s with 3 meals A$120-160,
d with 3 meals A$210-250) After the hardships
of travelling New Ireland’s west coast, you
might want to rejuvenate mind and body in
this stress-melting resort. The ethos here is
one of pampering and relaxation. And div-
ing (see p231). It’s a winning combination.
There’s excellent swimming too; the Island
is partially ringed by a ribbon of white sand
lapped by topaz waters. Snorkelling oppor-
tunities abound on the nearby reefs. Food
here is a definite plus; there are refined
dishes on offer, including vegetarian options.
Accommodation-wise, there are only seven
traditional-style bungalows, which ensures
intimacy. Four of them have private bath-
rooms. Although they’re not the height of
luxury, they are fan-cooled, spacious, well
spaced from each other and comfortable.
Eating
IN KAVIENG
Tsang Sang Bakery (Djaul St; h6.30am-5pm Mon-Fri,
to noon Sat) The only bakery in town has fresh
bread and sweet cakes available from about
7am. There’s not much left after 3pm. It’s
pretty basic and super cheap.
lonelyplanet.com
Punter’s Palace (Lavongai St; mains K3-6; hlunch
Mon-Sat) A very friendly kai bar which is packed
with locals at lunchtime. Dig into budget sa-
vouries such as stews, fried fish or chicken and
chips, and you’ll leave patting your tummy
contently. The food is fresh and hygienically
prepared. Copious pizzas are also available
(K30) but you’ll have to order them a couple
of hours in advance.
Sot Kat (mains K3-7; hlunch Mon-Sat) Another
buzzing kai bar that is off the radar for most
visitors but comes recommended by savvy lo-
cals. It’s a good-value stomach filler for those
in need of some honestly prepared stews, and
fish and chips at puny prices. Good roast
chicken, too.
Kavieng Hotel (%984 2199; kavienghotel@daltron
.com.pg; Coronation Rd; mains K30-40; hbreakfast, lunch
& dinner) This is a fixture among travellers,
well-heeled locals and expats and so it is a
good place to meet them. The dining area
is nothing glam but the eclectic menu, such
as burgers, steaks, omelettes, pork and lamb
chops, should please most palates. For a
splurge, dive face first into its memorable
Friday-night seafood buffet with crab, oys-
ters, chicken, lobster, fish and vegetables
(K55); you’ll walk out belly first. Words of
wisdom: come at 6.30pm sharp.
Malagan Beach Resort (%984 2344; Nusa Pde;
mains K30-50; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This has
the most pleasant setting, with a breezy
terrace facing the sea. Food-wise, there’s
a little of everything for everyone, from
satisfying breakfasts to burgers, and meat
dishes and seafood. Make a beeline for the
Sunday night barbecue (K40) and Saturday
lunch pizzas.
The bustling market (Nusa Pde; hMon-Sat) has
a good range of fresh fruit and vegetables in-
cluding the giant, yellow hand grenadelike
pandanus fruit. You’ll also find several well-
stocked supermarkets in town.
AROUND KAVIENG
Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; Nusa Lik Island; mains
K15-30; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Gourmand non-
guests are welcome at Nusa Island Retreat
(call ahead to arrange transfers). Indeed,
it would be a shame to miss out on their
dinner buffet (K50; by reservation). Or you
could tuck into a copious burger at lunch-
time and take a dip once you’ve digested
your meal. This is the life! The toes-in-the-
sand dining area is adorable.
N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g 233
Drinking
Kavieng’s nightlife is not exactly thrilling,
although there are a few options. Not to
worry, after a few SP beers, all of it will seem
amazingly exciting.
Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; Nusa Lik Island)
The bar here is a cool place. Sean, the ebullient
owner, prides himself on his very well-stocked
bar that has plenty of Australian tipples, spirits
and about 30 devilish cocktails (K10 to K45).
Boost your libido with the ‘Orgasm’ mixture
ISLAND PROVINCES
(we don’t guarantee the effects), while listen-
ing to mellow tunes. Free transfers from the
Malagan Beach Resort – just call ahead.
The bar at Kavieng Club (opposite is
a bit rowdy. The bars at Kavieng Hotel
(opposite) and Malagan Beach Resort
(opposite) are more sedate.
Shopping
There are Malagan artefact collections at the
Kavieng Hotel (opposite) and Malagan Beach
Resort (opposite). However, items are cheaper
from the carver in Libba village (p236).
Getting There & Away
AIR
If travelling to either Kokopo or Rabaul, Air
Niugini (%984 2135; Lavongai St; h8am-noon & 1-4pm
Mon-Fri) has flights to Tokua airport (K335,
35 minutes, three weekly), where you can
also connect to Hoskins (K373) and Port
Moresby. It also offers flights to Manus (K410,
twice weekly).
Airlink used to fly to Tokua but had gone
bust at the time of writing. Another airline
might have stepped in by the time you read
this – check it out while in PNG.’
BOAT
Banana boats and work boats run to the
nearby islands. There are about two boats
each week to Lavongai Island (passenger K40
to K50).
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %984 2755; Tanga St;
h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) sails to Rabaul usu-
ally on Thursday or Friday (K120, from nine
to 15 hours, once weekly) and travels onto
Kimbe (K220).
CAR & PMV
There are PMVs leaving Kavieng for
Namatanai (K50, six to seven hours, six
weekly) every day except Sunday. There
are also passenger trucks and PMVs which
 234 NEW IRELAND PROVINCE •• Lavongai (New Hanover) & East Islands lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • E a s t C o a s t 235

head some or all the way to Namatanai, or
elsewhere, every day but Sunday. Services to
the west coast, including Kontu and Tembin
(K30), are irregular. Ask around in town.
There are a few car-hire companies in town.
You’ll definitely need a 4WD if you plan to
go as far as Namatanai and beyond. Count
on K250 per day plus K1.10 per kilometre.
If you’re going to the west coast, it’s not a
bad idea to hire a driver (about K10 per hour
of driving).
ISLAND PROVINCES
a Robinson Crusoe experience, right?).
Bookings can be arranged through the tour-
ist office in Kavieng.
Tsoi Lik Lagoon Guesthouse (Tsoi Island; s incl 3 meals
K120) A good place to kick off your shoes for
a few days. This little morsel of paradise is
owned by the provincial administrator and
has a lovely beachfront location. The two
rooms and the ablution block are in good
nick. One proviso: there’s not much shade on
the property (don’t forget your sunblock).
LIFE IN A (NEW) IRISH VILLAGE
You’ll attract a lot of attention when you show up, but it’ll trail off; there’s a quiet respect for your
privacy in most villages. Take something (preferably lasting and useful) for the kids if you can,
but give it to the local school or bigman (leader) to redistribute. A football (there’s no describing
the joy), swimming goggles (you can carry quite a few and they’re functional) and pens are all
good gifts. Salt, sugar and tea will be appreciated by your hosts in the more remote places, but
don’t worry about this if you’re on the tarmac road. If you’re way off the beaten track, BYO rice
or you’ll eat your hosts out of house and home.
A torch (flashlight), sleeping sheet, mosquito net, hammock, thongs (flip-flops; coral is sharp),
book and toilet-paper roll are useful items to take along. Most villages have pit-toilets these days,

Avis (%984 1190; Malagan Beach Resort) See p232.
Drimas (%984 1792; Tanga St)
Hertz (%984 2374; Malagan Beach Resort) See p232.
Kavieng Hotel (%984 2199; kavienghotel@daltron
.com.pg; Coronation Rd) Also rents 4WDs.
Getting Around
PMVs around town cost 50t. The airport is
very close to town; most places to stay offer
free transfers.
LAVONGAI (NEW HANOVER) & EAST
ISLANDS
Is this the province’s best-kept secret? Hop
on a banana boat in Kavieng and check it
out yourself. Volcanic, ruggedly beautiful
Lavongai Island, as well as the string of islands
that lie scattered to the east, are the kind of
places that seem to emit a magnetic force. If
you’re searching for paradise in its raw form,
void of luxurious trappings (not a TV or a
radio in sight), then look no further than this
fascinating archipelago. Lavongai is a truly
wild Island, complete with dense rainforest,
mountains, waterfalls and rivers. With just a
handful of modest, homespun guesthouses,
tourism in Lavongai and East Islands remains
on a refreshingly humble scale.
Such potential couldn’t remain ignored for-
ever, though. Some investors hope to make
this archipelago one of the shining stars in
the province’s tourism firmament. There were
plans to build a few resorts on Lavongai and
East Islands when we visited. The time to go
is now, before this haven of serenity is let out
of the bag.
Sleeping & Eating
There is no formal accommodation on
Lavongai. The following guesthouses are on
East Islands, from where you can easily ac-
cess Lavongai by dinghy. There’s no phone,
no electricity (except the odd generator, if
you’re lucky) and no shops (but you wanted
Island Escapades (Tunung Island; s incl 3 meals K150)
Flake out on a little sandy beach, snorkel in
the shallow, clear blue sea, play soccer with
locals, or visit an elementary school. It’s a
tough life here. This guesthouse offers three
simple but charming bungalows made from
woven sago leaves, and a clean ablution block,
amid a neat property that overlooks the beach.
Not only is Clement, the young owner, well
clued up, but he’s also a dedicated surfer (and
can take surfers to nearby spots). Guided hikes
on Lavongai can also be arranged (from K100
per day). Feeling mushy? Ask for a candlelit
dinner. From Kavieng, it’s the furthest guest-
house of the lot, on Tunung.
Mansava Adventure Lodge (Tsoi Boto Island; s incl
3 meals K155) Ever dreamt of being a castaway,
but with a few comforts and a friendly family
to look after you? Well, this little guesthouse
right on the beach fits the bill and offers an
authentic slice of Island life. Digs are in two
ramshackle bungalows on stilts, but that’s
part of the charm. Each room comes with
a mosquito net and good bedding (by local
standards), and the ablution block won’t
make your squirm. The kitchen cooks up
tasty meals, with such organic ingredients
as megapode eggs (a delicious omelette!),
lobster, fish, sweet potatoes and taro.
There’s excellent swimming and snorkel-
ling offshore. To top it off, Boston Tusikai,
the owner, is a lot of fun…and a dedicated
betel-nut chewer.
Getting There & Away
Truth is, it is not that easy to get to these
islands. There are usually banana boats from
Kavieng, but they run on an infrequent basis.
It takes about 1½ hours to get to Tsoi Island
(shared ride K40) and three hours to Tunung
(shared ride K100). Consider sailing here
with Adventures In Paradise Yacht Charters
(p230) or Imajica (p231). Charters cost about
A$490 for a full-day sail (one or two people,
but if not, ask about the customary spot in the river or sea.
If you can, stay for Sunday. Whether you’re religious or not, you can’t fail to be moved by
the whole community dressing up and heading off to church, then returning to discuss the
sermon.
including lunch, snacks, kastom fees, mask
and snorkel, crew and skipper).
EAST COAST
Outside Kavieng, the plunge into a more
traditional world is immediate. Though the
east coast feels more ‘developed’ than the
west, with the Boluminski Hwy running
most of its length, it still retains a rough
diamondtype of rural edge to make it spe-
cial. It has lots of aesthetic appeal, shown
in its numerous beaches, limestone pinna-
cles jutting out of the ocean and lagoons of
surpassing beauty.
Adventure and nature may stir your
blood, but what will really sweep you off
your feet are the stimulating people that live
here. The coast is liberally sprinkled with
communities where locals haven’t moved
away from subsistence traditions. It’s a
great idea to ditch your guidebook, remain
for a few days and experience a village stay.
Digs are in basic bush-material huts, with
no electricity and no running water. Meals
are simple but nourishing (we hope you like
taro). Otherwise there are small trade stores
around but they sell mostly tinpis (tinned
fish) and rice.
Now it’s your turn to delve in, but take
your time: you won’t get to more than one,
maybe two, places a day by public transport,
and none on Sunday.
Boluminski Highway
Yes, New Ireland has a highway, which runs
the 270km from Kavieng to Namatanai, mak-
ing exploration easy along the east coast. It
is surfaced from Kavieng to shortly before
ISLAND PROVINCES
Malom, 180km away. Further south, it’s a
gravel road in more or less good shape (de-
pending on the rains). It was the first real
road in PNG, constructed by the Germans
when they developed lucrative copra planta-
tions. There are a number of villages along the
way where you can break up your journey.
Leaving Kavieng, the first major settle-
ment is Matanasoi (or Liga) village, about
5km along the highway from Kavieng airport.
There’s a limestone cave filled with crystal-
clear water. The Japanese used this grotto for
drinking water.
Twenty-three kilometres further is Putput
and the trippy Treehouse Village Resort (%984
2666; www.treehouse.com.pg; bungalow s/d A$105/130,
daily meals per person A$55), which has a series of
traditional-style, fan-cooled bungalows on
stilts overlooking the beach, where you can
re-enact your own Swiss Family Robinson
fantasies. Two units are perched up a 200-
year-old Calophyllum tree, above the din-
ing room. A host of tours can be arranged,
including village visits, rainforest walks,
canoe trips in the mangroves and snor-
kelling excursions. This quirky venture is
owned by Alun Beck, a New Zealander, who
has become a local chief. Overall, it’s rustic
and a tad overpriced (try to get a discount),
but amusing.
About 40km from Kavieng is Lossuk Guest-
house (s incl 3 meals K80), an acceptable place to
stay with one beachfront bungalow. At the
90km mark it’s worth pulling over to see
Cathy Hiob’s Eels at Laraibina (ask for Munawai
village). Cathy handfeeds some huge eels in
the river, which slither right past your hands.
Bring a tin of fish and K5.
 236 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • E a s t C o a s t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • W e s t C o a s t 237

Fancy a dip? Dunk yourself in a crystal-
clear, natural swimming pool upstream from
the bridge at Fissoa, in the grounds of the
Fissoa Vocational Centre.
It’s not a bad idea to pause in the large and
attractive village of Bol, about 120km from
Kavieng. Here you can bunk down in the spa-
cious Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles (Bol’s Guesthouse;
s incl 3 meals K150), which is a good place to see
community life. It’s run by Demas Kavavu,
who’s an interesting character who knows any-
ISLAND PROVINCES
ous contender for the title of best place to
stay on the east coast, it boasts a modernish
ablution block (flush toilets, hooray!) and
four tidy rooms (think decent mattresses
and mosquito nets). We fell for the setting,
right on a gorgeous beach by a turquoise
stream. Surfers take note: this is a good surf-
ing spot. Try not to turn up on Saturday (the
Adventists’ Sabbath).
Namatanai
SHARK CALLING
Along the coast of New Ireland, especially the west coast between Konogogo and Kontu, the
ancient art of shark calling is practised. A loop-shaped rattle made of coconut shells splashing
in the water beguiles the shark into a handheld noose. The noose has a propeller-like wooden
piece fitted to it to cause drag and ‘lift’ in the water as the shark fights and tries to dive. The
buoyancy eventually exhausts the shark. The less artful bit comes next when the caller bludgeons
the shark into some submission.
It’s believed that the shark won’t come if the caller is impure or does not respect the shark; shark
and caller are connected. Shark callers ‘own’ certain sharks and theirs will come only to them.
Unfortunately these days, the brutal and unsustainable practice of shark finning by commercial

ISLAND PROVINCES
thing and everything on Malagan culture. The This is the second-largest town on New vessels is decimating the population of sharks.
three rooms are very simple but overlook the Ireland; it has a hotel, supermarket and a
beach, with Tabar Island looming on the ho- few stores (but no bank). Namatanai was
rizon. The weak points are the toilets (pit) and an important station in the days of German Banana boats travel between New Britain Namatanai, you can take a PMV to Uluputur
the showers (non-existent; prepare to bathe in occupation. Now it’s just a transit point and New Ireland. From Namatanai, get a (K10), and on to Konogogo (Kono) if you’re
the river). There’s a nice wave here in surf sea- on a pretty bay. You’ll get electricity only truck from the waterfront in the afternoon lucky. Further northwest is friendly Messi vil-
son (November to March). Another option in from 6pm to 10pm, despite the local hydro to any of a number of villages near Uluputur lage, under a jungle-covered limestone escarp-
Bol is Panafilla Village Guesthouse (s incl 3 meals K100), project. The Namatanai Hotel (%/fax 984 3057; on the west coast (K10). Kabanut is a common ment (there are climbing paths up if you wish
which is marginally better than Panatalis. s K80-150, d K130-200) is right on the site of the destination and has a good guesthouse. Stay to seek a view).
Located 4km south of Bol, Libba village is old German station house by the water- the night (often at the truck driver’s place, Between Messi and Kontu there are many
a great place to look at Malagan art and stock front. The six fusty rooms will suffice at a K20) then catch a speedboat (K50) to Kokopo rivers; in the wet they can be impassable
up on handicrafts. The village is home to stretch. Meals are available for about K30. A in New Britain in the morning. (particularly the Ungana). The road gets
master carver Ben Sisia. Ben charges K5 to much more welcoming option is Boluminski very rough here even in dry weather. You
see the Malagan house where a piece might Guesthouse (% 984 3077; s/d without bathroom WEST COAST might get lucky and catch a lift with a 4WD
sell for the K100 mark – be very respect- K85/120), a B&B-like venture run by Robert With its limited infrastructure and lack of utility. Otherwise, you can arrange a boat
ful. Even the village church is carved in the and Sandy, who will adopt you. The four regular public transport, the west coast poses (charter K120) to reach Kontu, which has a
local style. fan-cooled rooms are simple but there’s not a few travel challenges. To those willing to guesthouse. The fascinating and ancient art
In Konos you can arrange for a boat to a speck of dirt to be found. The bathrooms accept, the rewards are many. The region’s of shark calling can be arranged for K45,
take you to Tabar Island (p238). There are a are tip top and the mattresses are thick. prime draw is its ancient traditions; between but you’ll be paying K45 more if a shark is
few good beaches near the village. Knowledgeable Robert is happy to guide Kontu and Konogogo (Kono) the fascinat- actually caught. Five or so kilometres north
In Malom village, 25km south of Konos you to various sites worthy of interest in the ing tradition of shark calling is practised of Kontu at Tembin, you’ll find another wel-
(and 181km from Kavieng), the well-run area, including waterfalls and WWII relics (see boxed text, above), especially in Kontu coming guesthouse.
Malom Guesthouse (s incl 3 meals K120) is a good (from K40). Meals cost from K20. It’s in a and Tembin. To reach Kontu and Tembin, there’s an
place to rest your head. The setting is en- verdant property about 3km from the centre. The beautiful, lonely, potholed west coast alternative, shorter route from Kavieng via
chanting, with lots of greenery, and it’s a Recommended for solo women travellers. road is all unsealed with a stretch either side Fangalawa (east coast) and Lamusmus (west
short stagger from the beach. Your gracious of Kontu that will challenge the toughest coast). You may find a PMV that plies this
host, Cathy Benson, is a good cook too. GETTING THERE & AWAY 4WD. In the wet season even a 4WD won’t route from Kavieng (chances are slim; ask at
The turn-off to Lelet Plateau (opposite) is PMVs for Kavieng leave here at 9am to manage some river crossings. the tourist bureau, p229).
just after Malom. There’s a village guesthouse 10am and arrive from Kavieng at about There are just a few ‘formal’ places to From the west coast, it’s possible to catch
(s incl 3 meals K80) further down at Dalom. A seri- 5pm (K45). stay along this coast, but visitors are so a boat to New Britain (opposite).
rare that there should be no trouble stay-
ing elsewhere. Most villages have a tra- LELET PLATEAU
BOLUMINSKI HIGHWAY FROM THE SADDLE ditional boihaus (basically a guesthouse) The 1200m plateau is cool enough to grow
Feel like enjoying the scenery and atmosphere from the saddle instead of a seat in a car or PMV? and you may be invited to stay, although vegetables. There are no rivers; perhaps
Cycling is an ecofriendly and cheap way to discover New Ireland’s east coast along cycle-friendly women might have trouble if there’s a that’s why rain magic is practised. There’s an
Boluminski Hwy. You can choose your own pace and become intimate with local communities. man staying already (which is unlikely). enormously deep cave, as yet unfathomed,
Boluminski Hwy seems to have been purpose-built for cycling, with very little traffic, no pollution, Always leave a gift of about K40, plus as well as some bat caves near Mongop.
a surfaced road that’s perfectly flat, and a number of guesthouses conveniently located along about K15 a meal or some food. Bring You can stay at the Puroro Guest House (s incl
the way. You can cover the whole stretch in four to five days. emergency supplies of food, including 3 meals K100).
Guided cycling tours around Kavieng and down the Boluminski Hwy can be organised rice and sugar. Women travellers should There’s a road leading up from the
through Tabo Meli’s Rainbow Tours (New Ireland Tourist Bureau %984 2441; www.newirelandtourism try and get in touch with local women in Boluminski Hwy just after Malom village.
.org.pg; Tanga St; daily bicycle hire K100; h7.45am-4pm) and Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; www the villages. Catch a passenger or cargo truck head-
.nusaislandretreat.com.pg; Nusa Lik island; daily bicycle hire K105). The main gateway to the west coast is ing across from Kavieng market (p229) on
Namatanai (opposite) on the east coast. From Wednesday or Saturday afternoon.
 238 MA N U S P R O V I N C E • • H i s t o r y
THE SOUTH
The southern ‘bulge’ of the Island is the birth-
place of Tambuan culture. For foreigners,
this is the holy grail in adventure travel.
This area has no real history of tourism
and therefore visits will often prove to be
an expedition.
There are high-altitude lakes, deep val-
leys, mighty rivers, a huge number of rare
orchids, frogs and, it’s suspected, creatures
that are still unknown to science. Who
ISLAND PROVINCES
knows, you might even come across a frac-
tious gathering of Tyrannosaurus Rex. Send
us the picture.
Given the lack of infrastructure and public
transport, this area lends itself to a DIY ap-
proach. Prepare well for a freestyle trip into
the unknown. From Namatanai, it’s possi-
ble to walk, canoe and boat right around the
Island’s southern tip. You’ll come across
hamlets with such exotic names as Samo,
Rei, Siar, Maliom… You’ll need plenty of
time because it’s easy to get stranded.
Once you approach Kabanut on the
western side, you’ll find transport back to
Namatanai. After several days (weeks?) in
isolated wilderness, chances are you’ll be
hardly recognisable.
EASTERN ISLAND GROUPS
There are five Island groups strung off the
east coast of New Ireland – Tabar, Lihir,
Tanga, Green and Feni. They are only 30km
to 50km offshore.
Apart from Tabar, none of these has any
formal lodging, and Lihir has the only reg-
ular transport. Air Niugini flies there daily
from Port Moresby. A boat from Namatanai
will cost K60. The locations are all lovely,
but rather impractical to visit.
Lihir Island has an enormous open-face
gold mine that looks like a Mayan tem-
ple (the gold seems to fly straight to Port
Moresby). Feni, Tanga and Green islands
are covered in dense, steamy jungle and are
almost untouched.
Tabar Island is a stronghold of Malagan
culture. Carvers Edward Sale, Leppan and
Maris Memenga came from Tabar and their
works (located on Tatau Island) are regarded
as masterpieces. There’s lodging and large
meals available at Andi’s Guesthouse (r K50). You
can get to Tatau from Konos or adjacent vil-
lages (passenger rides/charter rides K50/500,
2½ hours).
lonelyplanet.com
MANUS PROVINCE
Very few travellers make it to remote Manus
Province, which consists of Manus itself plus
a scattering of tiny islands, and it’s no won-
der: New Britain and New Ireland boast more
in-your-face attractions. Despite a wonder-
ful marine environment, Manus Province is
considered less attractive and the infrastruc-
ture is not as diverse as in the neighbouring
provinces. On the plus side, there are plenty of
DIY opportunities. Take a short trip inland or
a market boat to one of the islands and you’ll
find yourself in another century.
History
The tiny Western Islands and Wuvulu
Island are peopled by the descendants of
Micronesian settlers from the north. Their
fishing methods included fish traps and
kite fishing.
German colonists arrived in 1911 and
missionaries landed a while later, though
they found it harsh and dangerous, and the
locals found them rather appetising.
The Japanese invaded in 1942 and were
later evicted by the Allies who constructed
a huge naval base and airstrip (at Momote)
from which to invade the Philippines.
Geography & Climate
Eastern Manus and Los Negros are uplifted
coral formations while Southwest Bay is a
flooded caldera. There are large limestone
caves in the central area of the Island. Other
islands, Rambutyo, Lou, Baluan and M’Buke,
are spent volcanoes.
Manus Province’s daily temperatures are
a moderate 24°C to 30°C. It’s a rainy place
with drier months from September through
December. There are cyclones (and surfing
opportunities) from November to March.
Culture
The people of Manus Province are predomi-
nantly Melanesian; Micronesians dominate
in the Western Islands. The atoll-dwellers
have no arable land, and they trade fish and
lime for fruit and vegetables.
The Manus people (sometimes referred
to as Titans) occupy the south and south-
west islands and share a common language:
Titan. They depend entirely on fishing. The
Matangol live to the south, east and north,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MA N U S P R O V I N C E • • M a n u s & L o s N e g r o s I s l a n d s 239
depending on fish and some agriculture. The
Usiai are inland people who are exclusively
gardeners and hunters.
Carving has virtually died out in the prov-
ince, although the people of Bipi Island still do
some. Examples can be viewed in the Lorengau
council office. Spears decorated with shark’s
teeth were produced in the Western Islands.
MANUS & LOS NEGROS ISLANDS
Bad luck for Manus Island: it was a hot spot
for keen divers for many years – the marine
environment is world-class – but the local
dive shop closed down in 2007. Since then,
the number of visitors has dropped. Expensive
air fares don’t help. If you want to have an
idea of what you’ve missed out on, log on to
www.divepngmanus.com.
While divers may whine, twitchers and na-
ture lovers will jubilate: one of the first things
you’ll notice about Manus and Los Negros
islands is the distinctive call of the chauca
bird. These birds are unique to the region, as
is a variety of sea snail that has a vivid green
shell. Another local you’ll hear is a rokrok
(frog) whose bizarre croak sounds like a dis-
tant person nailing down a tin roof! There are
lots of crocodiles here too.
The provincial capital, Lorengau, is the
only town, which is stretched along Seeadler
Harbour. This very casual place livens up on
weekends when ‘baptism of fire’ sermons
are preached to an enthusiastic crowd. It
has a Bank South Pacific, a post office and
a hospital.
If you head to Los Negros Island, east of
Lorengau, check out the remains of the US air-
base at Lombrum. There’s a fine anti-aircraft
gun as you enter, and rows of old hangers.
General MacArthur’s headquarters is still in
use by the PNG Navy. The former Australian
refugee detention centre, where asylum seek-
ers who were arriving in Australia were proc-
essed during Australia’s ‘Pacific Solution’
days, is located here too. Near Loniu Passage
is Loniu Cave (admission K5), where people hid dur-
ing the war. Take a torch, dodge the bats and
don’t slip.
You can swim with kids on both sides of
the bridge or take a boat to Salamei Beach
on Rarah Island, about 2km from Lorengau. A
waterfall and swimming hole is in the Lorengau
River, 5km upstream from town.
For daredevil surfing fiends, there are wicked
waves to catch all through the islands. The
best season runs from November to March.
The merciless reef off Ahus Island is terrific. It
gets up to 3.6m at times, so take care.
Lorengau is famous for its high-quality
basketware. Look for the souvenirs of your
dreams in the main stores on the main drag.
Sleeping & Eating
If you want to dine out, there are a few modest
kai bars in town.
Lorengau Kohai Lodge (%470 9004; fax 470 9263;
ISLAND PROVINCES
Lorengau Rd; s/d K100/120; a ) Situated to the
east of the bay, this is a simple spot, with
a cosy communal living room and an
onsite restaurant.
Lorengau Harbourside Hotel (%470 9262; fax 470
9392; Teyota Pl; s K200, d K220-260; a) This is the
best-equipped venue in town. All rooms
have a fridge, phone, TV and a veranda, and
you can pay by Visa and MasterCard here. It
has an enchanting setting too, with its coco-
nut trees and lots of flowers. Food is avail-
able, and the bar closes at 10pm. Although
it’s a solid option, it’s on the pricey side.
The place to head to for a chilled beer in
the evening is Ron Knight’s bar (hdaily), which
floats on a couple of old ammunition barges
that Ron hauled up manually from deep
under the harbour.
Getting There & Away
Momote airport, 35km east of Lorengau, on
Los Negros Island, is linked to the capital
Lorengau, on Manus Island, by 30km of
sealed road. A bridge crosses the narrow
Loniu Passage in between.
Air Niugini (%470 9092) flies to Kavieng from
Manus Island on Sunday and Monday, re-
turning on Wednesday and Friday (K410),
to Lae from Manus Island on Wednesday,
returning on Monday (K488), and to Port
Moresby from Manus Island on Friday, re-
turn via Lae on Monday (K681).
There’s usually one weekly boat operating
between Lae and Manus. Ask at your hotel
for more information on schedules.
Getting Around
You can charter speedboats at the water-
front (daily hire excluding petrol K100).
The best way is to go as a passenger when
the boats head back from the market late
in the morning.
You can catch PMVs between Lorengau
and Lombrum, but that’s all. You’ll have
 240 N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • H i s t o r y
to hitch in from the airport (easy) or book
ahead and get picked up. Airport transfers
cost K30.
OTHER ISLANDS
Manus Province comprises a handful of very
remote offshore islands, including Wuvulu
Island, which was made famous by Jean-Michel
Cousteau when he conducted several Project
Ocean Search expeditions in the 1970s.
Other islands worthy of note are Hermit and
ISLAND PROVINCES
Ninigo, about 240km to the northnortheast
of Wewak.
Due to their far-flung location, these spots
rarely see foreign visitors, bar a few divers
on live-aboards (starting from Wewak).
Mouse-click your way on www.mvgolden
dawn.com for more information.
NORTH SOLOMONS
PROVINCE
Welcome to what is possibly the most special
province in the country. In many ways, the
islands that comprise the North Solomons
(Buka, Bougainville and a scattering of smaller
atolls) feel different, and the influence of the
PNG mainland is a distant memory. Look at a
map, and you’ll see why: the North Solomons
are closer to the neighbouring Solomon Islands
than they are to PNG. The international bor-
der between the two countries passes just a
few kilometres south of Bougainville Island.
The Shortland and Choiseul islanders in the
Solomons are very close to Bougainvilleans,
culturally and ethnically – both have jet-
black skin. Around PNG, Bougainvilleans are
known as ‘blackskins’ or ‘bukas’, and often the
whole North Solomons region is referred to
as Bougainville.
This province is best known for its tumultu-
ous history. Until the secessionist rebellion, it
had the most productive economy, best edu-
cation and the most well-run government.
Between 1972 and its 1989 closure, the Panguna
mine made 45% of PNG’s export earnings. But
‘the Crisis’ shattered all progress and much
infrastructure was devastated.
After 10 years of conflict, life has largely
returned to normal. There is no longer any
fighting and most of the province is safe to
explore. Once-forbidden routes are opening
up. Gone is the rather sullen, oppressed atmos-
lonelyplanet.com
phere that prevailed several years ago, even if
the civil war still looms large in the psyche of
many islanders. The province is now poised
for a great regeneration, thanks to a wealth of
natural resources, including gold and cocoa,
and its status within PNG – it has brokered
a special autonomy status to control its own
destiny. There’s huge potential for ecotourism,
diving, surfing, trekking, caving, cycling, kay-
aking, bird-watching and fishing, but there’s
little in the way of infrastructure and organised
activities (for now).
Wherever you go in this province, you’re
unlikely to cross paths with other travellers. All
the better for you: this less visited part of the
country remains something of a ‘secret’, which
adds to the sense of adventure. Go now.
History
There’s evidence that humans settled on
Bougainville at least 28,000 years ago.
Spanish mariner Luis Vaez de Torres passed
through in 1606, but Bougainville acquired its
name from French explorer Captain Louis-
Antoine de Bougainville who sailed up the
east coast in 1768.
European settlements were established as
the German New Guinea Company began
trading in the late 1890s. Bougainville and
Buka were considered part of the Solomons
group, a British possession, until 1898 when
they were traded to Germany. Australia seized
the North Solomons, with the rest of New
Guinea, at the start of WWI.
The Japanese arrived in 1942, swiftly de-
feating the Australians and holding most
of the Island until the end of the war. Buka
became an important air base, and Buin, at
the southern tip of Bougainville, was a base
for ground troops. In 1943 American troops
captured the port of Torokina and Australian
forces were fighting their way south towards
Buin. Of 80,000 Japanese troops only 23,000
were taken prisoner; 20,000 are thought to
have been killed in action and the remain-
ing 37,000 died of disease and starvation in
the jungles. There’s a moving monument
to the Japanese dead atop Sohano Island’s
cliff.
In 1964 a major copper discovery was
made at Panguna and more than K400
million was invested in a mine and its ancil-
lary operations. A new town, roads, a power
station and a port were constructed, and thou-
sands of workers descended.
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • G e o g r a p h y & C l i m a t e 241
SECESSION, WAR & PEACE
In the 1960s and early 1970s, the North Solomons began a push to break away from Australian
colonial control, climaxing in land disputes over the proposed Panguna mine.
Before PNG independence, Bougainville pushed for an independent grouping of the Bismarck
Archipelago. In 1974 secessionist movements sprang up.
In 1987 the Panguna Landowners Association was formed, led by Pepetua Sereo and Francis
Ona. It demanded better environmental protection, huge back-payments of profits from the mine
and US$10 billion in compensation. These demands were not met and in 1988 the Bougainville
Revolutionary Army (BRA), an offshoot of the landowners’ association, began to sabotage the
mine. Relations between the locals and police sent to protect the mine deteriorated sharply.
ISLAND PROVINCES
The BRA’s numbers were bolstered by sympathisers from other parts of the country and even
a religious cult.
Increasing attacks on mine workers resulted in the mine’s closure in 1989 – an enormous blow
to the PNG economy. A state of emergency was declared, the PNG army moved in and the conflict
spread to the rest of the island. Whole villages were moved into ‘care centres’, areas outside BRA
control. To ensure that the people moved, the army burned their villages and stories about rape
and murder flooded out of Bougainville. The Panguna issue became a civil war – at the height
of the conflict, there were 60,000 people displaced.
In 1990 the PNG government withdrew its forces and instituted a blockade, which led to
great hardship for the Bougainvilleans. The BRA declared independence, forming the Republic of
Meekamui on 17 May. Bougainville slipped back into primitivism. The BRA brought over supplies
from the nearby Solomon Islands and the PNG army, in retaliation, caused international tension
by raiding suspected BRA bases in the Solomon Islands, killing innocent people.
In February 1997 the Sandline Affair hit the headlines. In a highly secret operation then–prime
minister Julius Chan contracted a mercenary company to put down the rebels. The plan was
exposed and there was an international outcry. Days of heavy tension in Port Moresby saw
rioting and looting in the streets with people calling for Chan to stand down. He did and the
mercenaries – South Africans mostly – were deported. This act of lunacy hastened efforts to find
a peaceful outcome for Bougainville.
In March 2002 PNG Parliament passed legislation to give legal effect to the autonomy ar-
rangements contained in a peace agreement, which includes a referendum for an independent
Bougainville state by 2020. The PNG Defence Force (PNGDF) withdrew for the last time in April
2003. Weapons were surrendered to the UN, and certain amnesties and pardons were granted.
In mid-2004 the first divisions of local police graduated their training. Francis Ona, leader of the
BRA, died in 2006.
At the time of writing the situation had stabilised except in the ‘no-go zone’ near Panguna
(see p29 for the latest developments).
Geography & Climate hilly region. Another 166 islands spread over
Bougainville is volcanic, about 200km long 450,000 sq km of sea. It’s the most earthquake-
and covered in jungle. The Crown Prince, prone area of the country.
Emperor and Deuro ranges make up the cen- The province is hot and wet, with some
tral spine and Mt Bagana frequently erupts. areas getting more than 5m of annual rainfall.
Mt Balbi, the Island’s highest point at 2685m, The drier period on Buka Island is between
is a dormant volcano; Benua Cave is perhaps May and October.
the world’s largest at 4.5 million cubic metres.
The Island has many natural harbours, and Culture
large swamps on its western edge. Intricately woven Buka baskets are made
Buka Island is formed almost entirely of all over the country except here, it seems,
raised coral. It’s separated from Bougainville where they originated. The baskets are made
Island by Buka Passage, a tidal channel only from jungle vine, and the variation in col-
300m wide and a kilometre long. Buka Island our is achieved by scraping the skin off the
is generally low-lying, apart from a southern vine. They can be simple drink coasters or
 242 N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • B u k a I s l a n d
giant laundry baskets, and they’re the most
skilfully made, solid and durable baskets
in the Pacific. They were originally made
by the Siwai and Telei people of southwest
Buka Island.
There are 23 languages in the North
Solomons; Tok Pisin is the second main lan-
guage but most people speak English well. The
people of Takuu (Mortlock) and Nukumani
islands are Polynesian.
North Solomon Islanders have a matrilineal
ISLAND PROVINCES
system of clan membership and inheritance
rights. Most still live in bush-material housing
in villages and grow cash crops.
BUKA ISLAND
Buka Island is mostly covered with copra
plantations. To the southern tip of the Island,
Buka is the centre of activity in the province
and the main gateway to the islands.
Buka
An ambitious town, Buka used to be a tiny
place but it has boomed in the last 15 years,
during the war and afterwards, and now has
many new buildings and residents. Although
tourist sights are as scarce as hen’s teeth, it’s
worth spending a day or two soaking up the
atmosphere and chatting with the locals. It
feels so exotic to be the only foreigner wan-
dering in the streets, and people are genuinely
interested in talking with a ‘real’ tourist. Most
of the shops and services are on, or just off,
the main waterfront strip of Buka.
Buka remains an important port for copra
and cocoa; but for travellers, it serves prima-
rily as a point of departure to Bougainville.
INFORMATION
Bank South Pacific (%973 9752; h8.45am-3pm
Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Changes cash and can do cash
advances on your Visa card; be prepared for long queues.
Has an ATM (open 6am to 7pm daily; Visa only). Travel-
lers cheques are difficult to change and involves calling
Australia; it’s a lengthy process.
Post office (%973 9703; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Beside the bank.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
A particular highlight in Buka is the pas-
sage, which refers to the channel that sepa-
rates Buka Island from Bougainville Island.
The water runs at about 6 knots when the
tide is fast, making deep undulations on the
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water’s surface. Riding in a banana boat in Buka (from K10). If you want to snorkel, resort has been developed by the MacNabs,
Buka Passage is a buzz. Banana boats congre- seek permission first from the locals. Tours an Australian family that settled in here a
gate near the animated market (hTue-Sat) and can be arranged with Kuri Village Resort few decades ago. Due to open in 2008, it
the passage is abuzz with these small crafts (see below). deserves credit for breathing much-needed
plying between the town and Kokopau village A word of warning: avoid snorkelling in life (and comfort) into the hotel scene. Still
(opposite Buka on Bougainville Island). Buka Passage; you could wind up lost at sea a building site when we visited, with only
You can also take a boat ride to explore because of the current, and the boat traffic on one bungalow completed, it looked prom-
the idyllic islands near the southern mouth the surface is pretty intense. ising (50 rooms are planned). The resort’s
of the passage and beyond. Good swimming central concept is aimed at surfies, couples,
spots are on these islands. The most easily SLEEPING & EATING friends and backpackers, with a wide range
accessible is Sohano Island, a few minutes by Buka’s lodging options are nothing to crow of prices. It’s hard not to be charmed by
ISLAND PROVINCES
boat from Buka. It was the provincial capital about. The hotel clientele is mostly busi- the location, under the canopy of coconut
from WWII until 1960. It’s a beautiful place ness workers and NGOs. Prices include trees (it’s a copra plantation) and right
with lawns and gardens, a Japanese monu- airport transfers. by an expansive lagoon. A wide range of
ment and war relics, steep craggy cliffs and Lumankoa Guesthouse (%973 9779, 973 9097; fax activities will be available, including surf-
panoramic views over town, the passage and 973 9806; Buka; s incl 3 meals K120-170) Nothing fancy ing, diving, snorkelling and fishing. Watch
Bougainville Island. There are some colonial- happens at this weatherboard house, but it’s this space.
period buildings. The weird Tchibo Rock stands the cheapest accommodation in town. Bring Destiny Fast Food (Buka; mains K7; hlunch Mon-
just offshore from Sohano’s northernmost a straightjacket: the bare-bones rooms are Sat) If you’re looking for a quick bite, this
point and figures in many local legends. It’s cramped enough to frustrate a sardine. Luckily, popular institution dishes up a variety of
said to have magical properties. The banana- there’s an agreeable garden where you can well-prepared stews.
boat fare to Sohano Island is K2. breathe easier. Bathrooms are shared. Beware Kakema Bakery (Buka; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 6am-
Further south, Madehas Island, Christmas the appalling sandwiches served at lunch. 4pm Sat, 2-7pm Sun) Come early morning for
Island, White Island and Sal Island, blessed with Hani’s Inn (%973 9930, 973 9066; hanisinn@daltron fresh bread and belt-busting cakes.
lovely reefs and gorgeous beaches, are well .com.pg; Buka; s/d K154/176; ai) Don’t judge a
worth the 20- to 30-minute boat ride from book by its cover. The appealing turquoise GETTING THERE & AROUND
façade gives the impression that you’re enter- Air Niugini (%973 9655; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) flies
BUKA PASSAGE ing a doll’s house. Inside, it’s much less eye in via Rabaul four times a week. One-way
0 400 m candy, with itty-bitty rooms, joyless greyish full fares include Rabaul K390 and Port
0 0.2 miles
walls, lino floors and average beds. Otherwise Moresby K837.
To Hutjena
7
A Airport (2km) B it’s a safe-bet pad, with good facilities, includ- Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %982 1070; Rabaul)
3
ing a bar and a restaurant, and functional sails once a week to Rabaul (K130 to K250).
1
Hospital Buka I bathrooms. If you ask, you can get fresh Rabaul is also serviced by Agmark Shipping
seafood meals. Credit cards are accepted but (%973 9654; Kokopau) but the schedule is er-
Buka 2
5
1 there’s a 5% commission. Internet is available ratic; check while you’re there.
if you ask nicely (K20 per hour). Water taxis are the way to get around the
e
ag
9
Kuri Village Resort (%973 9155, 973 9151; fax Buka Passage area (K1). PMVs, Landcruiser
ss
To Arawa (120km); 973 9161; Buka; s K198-242, d K237-249; a) Run by Troop Carriers, ferry people down the coast
Pa
Market
Buin (195km)
Water Laurens, a local politician, this resort is as road of Bougainville to Arawa (and on to
a
Taxis
‘upscale’ as this Island goes and it’s something Buin, K100), five hours away, for a steep
uk
of an institution in the province. Many rec- K60. You have to go to Kokopau across the
B
Kokopau
2 10 Bougainville onciliation agreements between rival factions passage and then book a seat by 9am, even
8
6 were signed in the restaurant after ‘the Crisis’ though the vehicles leave at 11am or noon
INFORMATION (see boxed text, p241). It’s hard to say what (no services on Sunday).
Bank South Pacific..................1 A1
4
Post Office.............................2 A1 is the bigger drawcard: the clean-smelling
SLEEPING
rooms occupying a renovated warehouse BOUGAINVILLE
Hani's Inn ..............................3 A1 at the back of the property (upstairs rooms The name ‘Bougainville’ might put a few
Kuri Village Resort.................4 A2 are better, especially rooms 318 to 323); the worry lines on loved ones’ faces, but the re-
Lumankoa Guesthouse...........5 A1
To Madehas Island Resort; freestanding, bamboo-style bungalows scat- ality is a lot tamer than spring break parties
Madehas Island;
Christmas Island;
EATING
Destiny Fast Food..................6 A2
tered in the garden; or the bar-restaurant with at Daytona Beach (when we visited, at least).
White Island;
3 Sal Island Kakema Bakery......................7 A1 a wide deck overlooking the Buka passage. Now the most turbulent aspect of the Island
Tchibo Rock TRANSPORT
Credit cards are accepted. is its volcanic landscape.
Agmark Shipping...................8 B2 Madehas Island Resort (%973 9063; Madehas Bougainville Island is the main Island:
Sohano I Air Niugini..............................9 A1
Japanese Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) 10 A2
Island) Providing evidence that locals believe green, rugged and little-developed. The to-
Monument
in the tourist potential of Bougainville, this pography is grandiose, with thick forests,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
244 N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • B o u g a i n v i l l e lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • B o u g a i n v i l l e 245

concentrate was piped down from Panguna,
VOICES: MOSES KOLIWAN, CURRENT CHAIRMAN OF BOUGAINVILLE INTERIM the site of the power station and home to
TOURISM BOARD many of the mine workers. There’s a palpable
Bougainville is hell-bent on consigning its association with civil war and insecurity to history’s feel of nostalgia in Arawa. The old buildings
dustbin. Who better than 49-year-old Moses, an ex-teacher on Bougainville, to tell us about the and the workers’ quarters, still visible, testify
current situation and the future of this island? to a prosperous past. Some people still conjure
up this glorious past, ‘when Arawa was the
Is it safe to travel around Bougainville? Bougainville is now opened up for travel. Safety is no richest town in PNG’.
longer a concern, except a residual and occasional roadblock to the south, but we’re working The ArawaBuin section (about three
on this. Travellers can easily check out the situation when they arrive in Buka. hours by vehicle) was still a bit tricky when
we visited, due to the odd checkpoint control-
ISLAND PROVINCES
the Shortlands in the Solomon Islands (see
boxed text, p314).
Sleeping & Eating
Taga Guest Haus (Tinputz; s incl 2 meals K75) Facilities
are rudimentary (no fan, no electricity, shared
bathrooms, no mosquito nets but window
screens), but Gladys and Paul, your hosts, will
go out of their way to make you feel at home.
Paul is the leader of the Sinamo community
based in Namatoa, way up in the moun-

ISLAND PROVINCES
Are travellers made to feel welcome? Outsiders may find that Bougainvilleans don’t smile a led by so-called Bougainville Revolutionary tains, and can arrange a hike to Namatoa
lot, but that doesn’t mean they don’t like you; they just need some time and confidence to ex- Army (BRA) diehards (locals prefer to call Crater Lake.
press their feelings. Many people are still traumatised. Despite the sad times they went through, them raskols) south of Aropa. They some- Arawa Women’s Training Centre (%279 9927;
Bougainvilleans are very friendly and hospitable. And they are surprised to see foreigners for it’s times turn foreigners back or ask them for Arawa; s incl 2 meals K100-110) This is a good place to
been such a long time since real tourists last visited the island. whatever money they need. Don’t panic: this recharge the batteries. It’s safe (even for solo
‘checkpoint’ is apparently very occasional, women travellers) and very well maintained,
What are the island’s main drawcards? There’s a lot to see and do, but nobody knows. We and by the time you read this, there should reflected in its tidy rooms and crisply dressed
have superb trekking options across the island. Mt Balbi and Balbi Lake are definite must-sees, be no more checkpoints or roadblocks on the beds. Bathrooms are shared, and electric-
as is Mt Bagana, an active volcano. There’s also fantastic potential for water-based activities, Island. Monitor the news when you arrive ity runs from 8am to 2pm and from 5pm to
including kayaking, snorkelling and diving. Our reefs are absolutely pristine and marine life is in Buka. 10pm. Good, copious meals can be prepared
exceptional. Picnic trips on offshore islands can also be arranged. And, of course, there’s the About 260km south of Buka, Buin really on request (K18) but no alcohol is served.
culture. Travellers can experience a real off-the-beaten-track experience staying in villages and feels like the end of the line. It suffered less Buin has a few basic places to stay, includ-
living with the community. damage than Kieta and Arawa during the ing Kepa Guest House.
conflict. During WWII, Buin hosted a large
What are the plans for the future? Infrastructures are sorely lacking. The next stage is to build Japanese army base and the area has many Getting There & Around
capacity, with a few coastal and mountain resorts, well, small units, such as ecolodges, as well rusting relics. The Japanese had plans to reset- The most convenient way to get around
as community-based guesthouses on the island. We also aim to create a consistent travel route tle a huge number of civilian Japanese at an Bougainville Island is by PMV. There’s only
within PNG that would take in Bougainville, and link it better to the Shortlands in the Solomon area called Little Tokyo. one main gravel road, running down the east
Islands. In this respect, we need to have a proper border post at Buin. And maybe we could Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft wreck is the coast to Arawa and Kieta, and on to Buin to
extend the airstrip so that we could get international flights from neighbouring countries. But area’s most historically interesting wreck. the south. It’s in good condition but not all
we need time! Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, who planned of the rivers are bridged and the road fords
the attack on Pearl Harbour, left Rabaul in several of them. Some sections might be im-
a ‘Betty Bomber’ on 18 April 1943 with a passable for a few hours, even days, after heavy
towering volcanoes, tumbling rivers, azure (1730m). In Wakunai, your best source of protective group of Zeros, not realising that rains; take this into consideration on your way
lagoons, plunging waterfalls, giant caves and information is Suzie Akoitai. US fighters were waiting for him near Buin. back to Buka if you fly out.
impenetrable valleys that slithers into the Continuing further south, you’ll drive past The wreckage of the bomber still lies in the Regular PMVs ply the route between
mountains. More often than not, swirling the infamous Morgan Junction, where you can jungle a few kilometres off the PangunaBuin Kokopau and Buin via Arawa (you might have
banks of cloud add a touch of the bizarre. catch a glimpse of the roadblock that blocks road. It’s signposted, near Aku, 24km be- to stay overnight in Arawa). It costs K60 to
For now, visitors can have the Island pretty access to the ‘no-go zone’ and Panguna (still off- fore Buin. From Buin it’s a skip and a hop Arawa (five hours) and K100 to Buin (eight
much to themselves. There’s huge potential limits at the time of writing). High in the centre to Kangu Beach, the obvious launching pad to to nine hours).
for small-scale tourism, but still nothing in the of the Island, the dormant mine of Panguna
way of organised activities; it’s DIY travel. is one of the world’s largest artificial holes.
Starting from Kokopau, you’ll head due Bougainville Copper Limited was the operator
south and traverse several coastal commu- of the open-cut mine. Copper was discovered at
nities where time seems to have stood still. Panguna in 1964 (see boxed text, p241). There
Why not pull over in picturesque Tinputz, a are talks of re-opening the mine once the situ-
one-hour drive to the south? There’s a friendly ation is fully stabilised. Stay tuned.
guesthouse (see p243). About 10km south of Morgan Junction,
A good base, Wakunai is where you can ar- you’ll reach Arawa and Kieta, which are virtu- © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
range a three-day trek to Mt Balbi (2685m), or ally contiguous. Both were severely damaged restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
follow the Nooma Nooma track that crosses during the conflict (see boxed text, p241).
the Island to Torokina, on the west coast Whole neighbourhoods have been abandoned. only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
(count on a three-day minimum). From Four kilometres northwest of Arawa is Loloho everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Mt Balbi, you can see the active Mt Bagana on Arawa Bay, the port to which the copper the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
246 lonelyplanet.com
History
Solomon Islands See p22 for a run-down of the history of the
Solomon Islands.
Geography & Climate
The third-largest archipelago in the South
Pacific, the Solomons is a scattered double
chain of islands which extends 1667km in a
One of the last South Pacific frontiers, these islands are Melanesia at its most inspiring and southeasternly direction from Bougainville
secretive. Wanting to get off the beaten path? It’s easy: there is no beaten path. Just you, Island in PNG. Some of the islands are rug-
the ocean, dense rainforest and traditional villages; it feels like the world’s end. ged, heavily wooded and mountainous; oth-
ers are tiny, low-lying atolls. The country’s
In this enigmatic archipelago, blessed with a compelling history, intriguing cultures and highest peak, Mt Makarakomburu (2447m)
is on Guadalcanal. Volcanic activity and
natural beauty, opportunities to create your own trail abound. It’s all about eco-travel: climb
earthquakes occur frequently.
an extinct volcano, trek across a mountainous landscape as old as dinosaurs, slog through
The dry season is from May to early
jungle paths to reach secluded waterfalls, and experience the leaf-hut villages where trad- December. Cyclones occur between January
itional culture is alive. Those looking for a bit less swashbuckling and more creature comforts and April. Daytime coastal temperatures
will delight in soothing eco-lodges and the majestic scenery from a tranquil sundeck. vary from 21°C to 32°C.
This is only the beginning. Divers will be in seventh heaven, whether exploring Marovo Culture
Lagoon’s reefs or diving around the fleet of WWII ship and plane wrecks resting on the As in most Melanesian cultures, the wantok
(fellow clanspeople) system exists here.
SOLOMON ISLANDS
seafloor between Guadalcanal and Tulagi. Kayaking, surfing and fishing are also here. Above
Solomon Islanders’ duties to their clan and
the surface, plenty of WWII relics scattered in the jungle will captivate history buffs. village bigman (leader) are eternal and trans-
geographic. Kastom (or traditional ways)
The question, though, is this: after a few years of civil strife, how safe is the country? Thanks
involves dances, songs and storytelling. See
to foreign aid, the Solomons is bouncing back and visitors will feel more than welkam. Yes, you p33 for more information on culture.
can do pretty much whatever you want, and will be limited only by your imagination.
The best part is, there’ll be no crowds to share in the experience. GUADALCANAL
The largest island in the Solomon group,
HIGHLIGHTS
Guadalcanal hosts the national capital,
„ Taking a dip in a natural pool at Mataniko Falls (p258) or Tenaru Falls (p259) Honiara. There’s no iconic calling card but
a host of cultural sights. There are a couple
„ Testing your Indiana Jones side in untamed Weathercoast (p261)
of natural wonders and fantastic diving at
„ Huffing to the top of the mount on Kolombangara Island (p274) to admire the Jurassic Iron Bottom Sound, the famous graveyard
Park–like scenery of WWII’s Battle for Guadalcanal, just off
„ Soothing your chakras at a laid-back resort on Mbabanga Island (p272) the north coast. Outside Honiara, the island
„ Diving and snorkelling in fish soup in Marovo Lagoon (p266)
has the genuine look of a lost world. The
hills behind the capital eventually become
„ Feeling free in an intimate lodge at Langa Kolombangara
Island a mighty mountain range rising to 2400m
Langa Lagoon (p277) New Georgia & that separates the Weathercoast people from
Mbabanga West New Georgia
Island
„ Spotting rusty WWII relics on Guadalcanal Langa Langa those on the northern coast.
(opposite) and west New Georgia (p265) Lagoon
„ Visiting a skull shrine on Vonavona HONIARA
Lagoon (p265)
Vonavona
Lagoon
Mataniko Falls &
Tenaru Falls
Tension, riots? What tension, what riots?
Weathercoast The capital of the Solomon Islands was at
„ Listening to the cacophony of seabirds on
Marovo Guadalcanal the epicentre of civil unrest and ethnic ten-
the mysterious, World Heritagelisted Lake Lagoon
sion from 1999 to 2003. But how things have
Te’Nggano (p279) Lake
Te‘Nggano changed since the arrival of the Regional
Assistance Mission to the Solomon Islands
„ POPULATION: 524,000 „ AREA: 27,540 SQ KM (SEA AREA: 1.35 MILLION (RAMSI) personnel in 2003, who helped
SQ KM) quell internal violence, despite a short-
G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 247
lived election-related uprising in 2006. The
city is now looking optimistically towards
the future.
Considering it’s the first port of call
for most visitors, due to its position as
the hub within the archipelago, it’s hard
not to spend some time in Honiara. It’s
rarely love at first sight – the architecture
wins no prizes and sights are sparse. Don’t
despair! Lift the city’s skin and the place
might start to grown on you. Hang around
the atmospheric wharf, wade through the
shambolic market, grab a few gifts in the
well-stocked souvenir shops and get your
first taste of Melanesian culture by visiting
the museum.
Those who’ve just arrived from several
weeks in the Solomon Islands’ wilds, char-
acterised by rough village life, now feel like
they’ve stepped into Manhattan, with a spat-
tering of epicurean indulgences (hmmm,
thick banana smoothies…), shops heaving
with consumer goods, the odd traffic snarls
SOLOMON ISLANDS
and a modicum of nightlife (yes, nightlife).
It’s also the optimal launching pad for
exploring Guadalcanal’s outdoors and the
various WWII battlefields around the city.
For those who come from Port Moresby,
Honiara might just seem like heaven
on earth.
Orientation
The central area extends from the post office
to Chinatown and can easily be covered in
a 30-minute walk along Mendana Ave, the
backbone of central Honiara, which runs
eastwest parallel to the seashore. In this
precinct, you’ll find the central market, the
port complex, shops, embassies, banks, ho-
tels and restaurants.
The 11km-urban spread along the coast
has the settlements of Rove and White River
to the west, while eastwards are Chinatown
and Mataniko. Beyond are Kukum, Panatina
and Ranadi, which make up the country’s
principal light-industrial zone.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Nautilus (%26105; NPF Plaza, Mendana Ave; h8am-
5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) This German-run gift shop
stocks a few books on the Solomons.
EMERGENCY
Police (%999)
 248 S O L O M O N I S L A N D S lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 249

INTERNET ACCESS Bank South Pacific (%21874; Mendana Ave;

To Anuta I; Fatutaka I;
Tikopia I (See inset)
120 miles

ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ
200 km

There are various internet cafés in the NPF h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) Changes all major currencies

DUFF IS

Vanikoro I
Plaza building. Rates average from S$15 to and travellers cheques.

Fatutaka I
Anuta I
S$17 per hour. You can expect fairly speedy Solomon Post (%21821; Mendana Ave; h8am-

Utupua I
connections, and you can burn CDs and 4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) If there’s nobody at the

OCEAN
Same scale as main map
print documents. Most hotels also offer counter downstairs, go upstairs. Rates are lower, but there

REEF IS
internet access for their guests, and some are no queues.
places have wi-fi. The following outlets are

ὄ
Westpac (%21222; Mendana Ave; h9am-4pm Mon-
Tikopia I

SANTA CRUZ
open on Saturday. Fri) Changes all major currencies except euros in cash, as

PACIFIC
Solosoft (NPF Plaza, Mendana Ave; h8am-7pm Mon- well as travellers cheques (euro-denominated ones are
inset

IS
Fri, to 3pm Sat) Upstairs.

Tinakula I

Santa Cruz I
accepted).

Nupani I
0
0

TM Internet Cafe (NPF Plaza, Mendana Ave;

h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat) Upstairs. POST
Solomon Post (Mendana Ave; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,
SOUTH

MEDICAL SERVICES to noon Sat) Main post office. Sells envelopes and post-

PROVINCE
TEMOTU
In-The-Zone Medical Clinic (%23485; Hibiscus Ave;
h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) This private clinic, just beside
the King Solomon Hotel, has been recommended to us by
expats. After hours, call h25063.
Point Cruz Chemist (%22911; Mendana Ave; h8am-
5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) A well-stocked pharmacy.
cards, and has a philatelic bureau. Also houses a Western
Union counter.
TELEPHONE
Many hotels have phones that their guests can
use to make international phone calls.

Santa Catalina I
Santa Ana I
Telekom House (%21576; Mendana Ave; h8.30am-
THREE SISTERS
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Sells phonecards and
SOLOMON ISLANDS

SOLOMON ISLANDS
MONEY
Sikaiana

A sign that Honiara has embraced mod- prepaid SIM cards. Also offers internet connection.
Atoll

Ulawa I

ernisation: there are now four, shiny 24-

IS

hour ATMs in the centre, and they were all TOURIST INFORMATION
Makira I

ὄὄ PROVINCE
MAKIRA
working when we visited. ANZ and Westpac
have one each; you’ll find two more booths
Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau (SIVB; %22442;
www.visitsolomons.com.sb; Mendana Ave; h8am-
Map (p275)
See Malaita
Province

(also owned by ANZ and Westpac) out- 4.30pm Mon-Fri) There is little printed material, but staff
t
ai
tr

side the post office. They accept Visa and can provide advice and contact isolated lodges and villages
S
Malaita I

l
e

ns
ab MasterCard. ANZ and Westpac can also do (by two-way radio) to make bookings. Ask for Chris or
Auki

See Guadalcanal
Map (pp250–1)

pe Stella. Also sells useful maps of the country (S$60).

cash advances on your credit card. Note that
PROVINCE

s
MALAITA

Te'Nggano

di
In
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
Lake
Rennell

there is also an ANZ-operated ATM and a

Guadalcanal
Ontong Java Atoll

small bureau de change at the airport. TRAVEL AGENCIES

RUSSELL NGGELA

ANZ (%21111; Mendana Ave; h9am-4pm) Changes Guadalcanal Travel Services (GTS; %22586;
HONIARA
IS

GUADALCANAL

guadtrav@solomon.com.sb; Mendana Ave; h8am-

Indispensable
Santa Isabel I

See Rennell Island

Map (p279)

all major currencies and travellers cheques. Has the best

RENNELL &

PROVINCE
BELLONA
PROVINCE

Bellona I

Reefs

rates, but notoriously long queues as well. 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Well-established travel
IS
)
ot
ὄὄ
See Central Province
Sl

Map (p261)

ETHNIC TENSION: IT’S OVER

Vangunu I
he
PROVINCE
ISABEL

(T
Marovo
Lagoon

For years the Gwale people of Guadalcanal resented the fact that their traditional land was being
d

settled by migrants from Malaita.

un

See Western Province Map (p264)

SEA
So

Early in 1999 the Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army (GRA) began to terrorise Malaitan migrants,
SOLOMON ISLANDS

Georgia I

Tetepare I

which led to thousands fleeing back home. The Malaitan Eagle Force (MEF) was formed and soon
a

New
gi

gained the upper hand. Hundreds died in the fighting.

SOLOMON
or
PROVINCE
CHOISEUL

Kolombangara

Following mediation by Australia and New Zealand, the Townsville Peace Agreement was
Ge

Rendova I
SHORTLAND Choiseul I

signed in October 2000. Conflict has ceased, thanks greatly to the Regional Assistance Mission
Lola
New

to the Solomon Islands (RAMSI) presence throughout the whole country, implemented in July
Gizo

Ghizo I
PAPUA NEW

2003. The RAMSI force includes personnel from Australia, New Zealand and Fiji, and is mainly a
GUINEA

Ranongga I

policing project, resulting in law and order returning.

Vella Lavella I

Security was quickly re-established and RAMSI remains in an ongoing role while the country
PROVINCE
WESTERN
Treasury I
Bougainville

IS

rebuilds. The presence of RAMSI means that the Solomons are safe once more, but it doesn’t
look like the personnel will be leaving any time soon.
 ὄ
ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ
250 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 251

0 40 km
GUADALCANAL 0 20 miles

ὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ
ὄ ὄ
Visale To Savo Island To To Savo & To Malaita
Western Tulagi Poposa Pari
Island Komukomutou
Province Island 0 4 km
Vila 0 2 miles
Veuru Cape Espérance Arona Island
Tambea Pupuraka Hill
Paru (200m) Nughu Island
Marovovo Mt Vuvunga Aruligo
(593m) Iron Bottom Sound Round Island
Vilu
Sealark Channel SOLOMON SEA Maruipa Island
Ndoma
Mt Gallego Savekau
i

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Verahue (1070m) an Ruaniu (Bonegi III)
as er Tasivarongo Pt
Panatina
Lengo Channel Marau
Um Riv Hell's Tetere
Sound Marapa Island
Bonegi I & II Ranadi Point Beach New Marere
Mt Tonjili US Sherman Tank White
Mamara River Tetere
Lambi Bay
Bay

ee gi
Mamara Beach Red Wahere

Cr one
Lambi

k
Poha Airport Beach Island
ha Amtracks

B
Kombiloko HONIARA
Cone Peak Po iver Makina Tawaihi
R Japanese Kukum Ruavatu Tavanipupu Island

River
(800m)

R
Valeatu Island
Memorial Tenaru

pono
ava Lelei Betikama Tetere Mbinu Manikaraku Paipai Island
Hoil er Mt Gifu
Bloody
Tiua
Riv Ta n d a c h e h e R i d g e Ridge Kosa Island

Mate
Mataniko Komuniboli Komuninggita Komunimbaimbai Conflict

e
Vungatambu

ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ
Tiaro

Mberand
Falls
Mt Austen Ando Rua Sura Bay
Ghove Falls Lungga Plateau Island Marau Airfield Rauhi Island
(410m)
Rivere

Mataruka
Ghov

er
Solomons Peace

Riv

r
Memorial

Rive
West Cape

ambusu
Suva Pt Guadalcanal Park Tenaru R Nudha Island
u
Waterfall bi

bo
Aola
er are

suna

River
lim Tambusu Pt

kokim
a
Riv ngar

Nggur
Ghoverighi Harbour Ng Old Case

Mbali
Rere Pt
Ta

r
River
r
Mbo

ve
e
Tinomeat Rere

Riv

Ri
Tangarere Mt Vatunjae
Gha Talambirua

re
usav Taluto'o Island

a
Gold Parina

Re
ito
Aol
a Riv v R
Beaufort Bay Ridge ri R ulo

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
mb
er
Nggoinggoi Malukuna Cha Kolochulu
Mb aR

Ko
Mt Mbutahaina o
Cape Beaufort Mt Ngalikama Nuhu Mbumbumaraho nga er
Mbumbunuhu va
Sorovisi Tughuruloki Mt Tambunanggu Ta Riv
iu
Sim
SOLOMON ISLANDS

SOLOMON ISLANDS
Vihona Mt Tatuve Vatupochau Totonga
r Falls (1400m) Falls
ve Mt Vatupochau
er

Ri Chari Mbo'o
iv

Mt Popomanaseu (1419m) R Mbo'o Vata Eo Pt

Cascades
a R
li

(2330m)
Gho

Cape Austen Papara

R
Itin

Mbambanakira

ilia

aR
Airfield Mt Makarakomburu Poposa See Enlargement

gg

Kaok
(2447m)

Sin
Mbambanakira
er

Guadalcanal
Riv

Maruipa
Koloula

ve e
at

Ri alis
Komate Chocho
gh Island

r
Savekau
River
ro

va er

T
Savuna vu Marapa
Ai Riv
No

Ghamosa Pt la Mt Kaichui Island

Mbolonda Viso Choghiri bo er (1920m) Mt Pinggu
Cape Bay Inakola Longgu M Riv New Marere
Hunter Nduindui
Kuma Talise Avu Avu
Airfield

er
Koloula Makina
ta

lu Riv
Pt Avu Avu gia Manikaraku
ng er
Ta Riv Komunimbaimbai

r
Oa Rive
Alua
Haimarao Valahima
Bubuvua Falls

SOLOMON SEA Lauvi Pt Komuvaolu

Makaruka
Korasahalu Island Sukiki Veramakuru
Mbalo
Cape
Henslow

agency. Can arrange tours and bookings for major resorts Sights the atmosphere – there’s always a busy scene NATIONAL MUSEUM & CULTURAL CENTRE
in the Solomons. Ask for the knowledgeable Garedd. Honiara’s attractions are mainly strung along here as copra boats and interisland passenger The modest museum (%24896; Mendana Ave; ad-
the main drag. The main exceptions are White vessels load and unload. mission by donation; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
VISA EXTENSIONS River Village (take a ‘White River’ minibus, has only one room featuring displays and
Immigration Division (%25081; Mendana Ave; S$3) and Skyline Drive (take a cab). NATIONAL PARLIAMENT old photographs on traditional dance, body
h9.30-11.30am & 1.30-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Located in See the conical-shaped concrete building ornamentation, currency, weaponry and ar-
the Department of Commerce, Industries & Employment POINT CRUZ perched on the hill above Hibiscus Ave? It’s chaeology. Behind the main building there
building. Visitor permits (S$50) can be extended for three On 12 May 1568 Mendaña and his men the National Parliament (%28520; Lower Vayvaya are eight traditionally constructed houses,
months. Takes 24 hours. erected a cross at a spot traditionally called Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri). Watching proceedings each from a different province, as well as a
Kua by islanders, renaming it Point Cruz. from the public gallery (take the eastern few boldly carved wooden statues.
Dangers & Annoyances Then they said their prayers and claimed their entrance) can be fun if you happen to be
Relax! You’re not in Port Moresby. The discoveries in the Solomons for Spain. in town at the right time (one-week ses- WHITE RIVER VILLAGE
RAMSI personnel quickly re-established law Since the 1950s this small peninsula has sions are usually held every other month). Betel nut, anyone? This friendly Gilbertese
and order in the capital. It’s now safe to stroll been greatly extended with wharves and copra Inside, the dome boasts a rich tapestry of settlement about 4km west of the centre
around the centre by day, provided you use sheds. Boat services depart from Point Cruz to traditional art, including arching frescoes. is mostly famed for its betel nut market.
your common sense and avoid walking alone the remotest destinations in the archipelago. Opened in 1993, the building was funded Wooden stalls selling the much sought-
in deserted streets. At night, take a taxi. It’s worth spending an hour or two soaking up by the USA. after commodity are lined cheek-by-jowl
ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄ
252 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 253

0 400 m colourful shops but most of them were de-

HONIARA 0 0.2 miles
stroyed. There are plans to regenerate the area

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄὄ
A B C D E F in the near future.
Pt Cruz
Iron Bottom Sound Main
Wharf Activities
1 18 33
44
1
If you’re a diver, be sure spend a few days in
To Coastwatchers (300m);
Raintree Café (2km); 48 3 1 47 the capital – Honiara has probably the best
White River Village (2km);
Bonegi I & II (11km) Mbokona
13
43
36 diving of any capital city in the world, on a

ὄὄὄ
Ashley St
Mendana 4 46
10
Men
Reef Bay
17 Me par with Port Moresby. It has a fantastic col-
nd
dana
Av
e
7
41
an
a
Av
lection of WWII wrecks lying offshore in an
Police e
Headquarters 40
Hibiscus Ave 35 area known as Iron Bottom Sound. Contact
38 37
the following outfits:
Rov

9 30 34
e Cr

0 200 m
Rove Kukutu
St
15 0 0.1 miles Coastwatchers (%21255, 73672; coastwatchers@
eek

St
11
fastmail.fm) About 1km west of the centre, on the road to
i
Tsiliv

14 16

Mud Al
INFORMATION 21 NPF Me
2 ANZ..........................................1 E1 Lenggakiki Hibiscus Ave 8 2
Plaza nd
an
a
2 White River. One-day dive package is US$140. Also offers
12 Av
Australian High Commission.... 2 C2 Rd e snorkelling trips.
Bank South Pacific....................3 E1 27
British High Commission......(see 16)
6 Kua Bay Invader Charters (%23085; www.invadercharters

ee a
See Enlargement t

Cr okom
kS

ve
French Consulate......................4 E1 uc .com.au; Honiara Hotel; 1-/2-shore dives S$500/700,

k
Lenggakiki

us A
Cl

b
German Consulate.................(see 4)
equipment hire S$300) Also has trips to Florida Islands
M
25

i sc
Guadalcanal Travel Services b 22
Hi To Pacific Casino Hotel (2km);
(GTS)....................................5 E1 31
28 19
39
Club 106 (2km); aboard a 30m vessel (A$450 for a weekend package to
In-The-Zone Medical Clinic......6 C2 National Parliament...............22 D2 Panatina (3.5km);
Japanese Embassy.....................7 F1 Solomons Sport Fishing........(see 38)
42 Ritaleven Inn (3.5); Maravagi Resort, p262) and snorkelling trips.
Bula Bar (9km);
Map Sales Division of Agriculture Spirit of Solomons................(see 18)
Ave

Henderson Airport (9km);

& Lands Department........... 8 C2 29 Tenaru (15km)
Tolu
National Government Offices & SLEEPING Vavaea
20
See p60 for more information on diving.
SOLOMON ISLANDS

SOLOMON ISLANDS
Kukum
3 Immigration Department......9 C2
Nature Conservancy...............10 A1
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge.......23
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge 2...24
F4
D3
Nings Bakery..........................37 F2
Nings Coffee Shop...............(see 37) Mataniko
Hwy 3 Tackle bigeye tuna, Spanish mackerel, king-
Rd
Nautilus.................................11 C2 Chester Resthouse.................25 D2 Point Cruz Yacht Club............38 C2 Mbo kon av
era Bridge fish, wahoo and sailfish with Solomons Sport

ver
Ri
PNG High Commission..........12 C2 Honiara Hotel.........................26 F4 Sea King.................................39 F3
Point Cruz Chemist.................13 E1 King Solomon Hotel...............27 C2 Shogun - Casablanca..............40 B2
Fishing (% 95105, 24498; mikehammond@solomon
o

Rd
Post Office (Solomon Post)....14 C2 Quality Inn.............................28 E3 nik .com.sb; full-day S$3500), based at the Point Cruz
ata

ah
24 Chinatown
Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau Solomon City Motel...............29 E3 DRINKING

(SIVB)................................15 C2
Solosoft...............................(see 11)
Telekom House...................... 16 C2
TM Internet Cafe.................(see 11)
USA Consular Agent............(see 44)
Westpac.................................17 F1
4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bilikiki.....................................18 E1
Central Market.......................19 E3
Holy Cross Catholic Cathedral..20 E3
Invader Charters..................(see 26)
National Museum & Cultural
Centre............................... 21 C2
along the main road. Past the market,
there’s the Raintree Café (p255). Ah, the
Raintree Café…
SKYLINE DRIVE
You can still follow this wartime jeep track
for the 5km between Honiara and Valeatu.
As it leaves Honiara, Skyline Dr overlooks
the Mataniko River, providing a breathtak-
ing view of village life below it. Enjoy it from
the US War Memorial, a compound of marble
slabs bearing detailed descriptions of bat-
tles fought during the Guadalcanal cam-
paign. It was unveiled on 7 August 1992,
the 50th anniversary of the US beach land-
ings. It’s a steep 30-minute walk up from
Mendana Ave.
Solomon Kitano Mendana King Solomon Hotel............(see
Mbokonavera
Hotel.................................30 C2 Lime Lounge.......................(see 36)
United Church Resthouse......31 D3 Point Cruz Yacht Club.........(see 38)
Zome Accommodation.......... 32 D3
ENTERTAINMENT
EATING Club Paradise..........................41 F1
Capitana Restaurant............(see 30) Flamingo..............................(see 26)
Club Havanah......................(see 26)
Garden Seafood......................33 E1
King Solomon Hotel............(see 27)
Point Cruz Yacht Club.........(see 38)
Hong Kong Palace..................34 F2
Honiara Hotel......................(see 26)
Hot Bread Kitchen...................35 F1
SHOPPING
DJ Graphics............................42 E3
Le Rendez Vous Restaurant..(see 27) King Solomon's Handicraft......43 E1
Lime Lounge...........................36 F1 Melanesian Handicrafts...........44 F1
CENTRAL MARKET
While there’s no chance of Honiara being
mistaken for Dakar, the busy, bubbling Central
Market (Mendana Ave; hdawn-dusk Mon-Sat) assails
your senses. It’s the country’s principal food
market and covers a whole block between
Mendana Ave and the seafront. It has a huge
selection of fresh produce, especially fruits
and vegetables, that come from outlying vil-
lages along the northern coast and from Savo
island.
Also on sale are traditional crafts such as
Malaitan shell money, souvenir shells and
jewellery. The fish market is at the back – just
follow your nose.
There’s no bargaining, and there’s no has-
sling to buy anything. Utter bliss.
M
27)
32 Old Mataniko
Bridge
Dr
line
Sky
To Mataniko
Falls Trailhead (2km)
TRANSPORT
To US War
Memorial Avis........................................45 F4
(250m) Guadalcanal Travel Services
(GTS)..................................46 E1
MV Pelican Express.................47 F1
MV Solomon Express...........(see 47)
Solomon Airlines.....................48 E1
Zome...................................(see 32)
CHURCHES & RELIGIOUS SERVICES
On Sunday, masses of well-dressed Honiarans
attend morning church services. Most
churches have several services on this day,
usually lasting an hour and conducted in
English, so you have no excuse not to repent
your sins. Visitors are welcome to attend,
but make sure you dress modestly. The most
prominent religious building is the Holy Cross
Catholic Cathedral, perched on a hill to the east
of the centre.
CHINATOWN
What’s left of once-thriving Chinatown?
Sadly, after the riots that broke out in April
2006, not much (see p13). Chinatown’s main
street, Chung Wah Rd, was flanked with
W
un
g Yacht Club.
Ch 45
23
26
Tours
The following outfits can arrange half-/
full-day tours around Honiara, taking in
4 the WWII battlefields, waterfalls and other
sights. They can also organise trips to Savo
and Tulagi. Prices vary according to the
party size.
Destination Solomons Travel & Tours (%23444;
destsolo@solomon.com.sb) Run by Wilson Maelaua.
Guadalcanal Foundation Tours (%38338) Run by
knowledgeable John Innes. Focuses on WWII battlefields.
Tourism Solomons (%27772, 21150; toursol@solo
mon.com.sb) Ask for Ross Hepworth.
Sleeping
BUDGET
All places listed have communal kitchens,
fan-cooled twin rooms and shared facilities
unless stated otherwise.
United Church Resthouse (%20028, 20144; Lower
Vayvaya Rd; per person S$90, r S$200-250) A thong’s
throw from the Chester Resthouse, this tee-
total place features a handful of rooms that
are in sore need of TLC; otherwise the place
is in reasonable condition. Some rooms have
saggy mattresses; others have three beds and
 254 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a
feel cramped. The best assets are the central
location and ample views from the communal
areas. It’s manageable for a day or two.
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge (%28819; Chinatown;
per person S$100) Rooms here are monastically
plain and cleanliness is only just OK in the
bathrooms – wear thongs (flip-flops) and pray
you’re not the last in line to shower. It’s worth-
while if you’re seriously strapped for cash.
Some rooms are windowless, so check out
a few before settling in. The smart Honiara
Hotel is just across the street, so you can make
use of its restaurant and pool. It’s a 10-minute
walk to the market.
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge 2 (%23059; off Skyline Dr;
per person S$100) This is almost a carbon copy of
the original Bulaia: same management, same
nondescript building and samey rooms (albeit
more recent and a bit brighter). Good value if
you can handle a strenuous 20-minute steep
walk from Chinatown.
Chester Resthouse (%26355; mbhches@solomon
.com.sb; Lower Vayvaya Rd; r S$180) May God bless
SOLOMON ISLANDS
you in this neat little number run by Henry,
an assiduous Anglican brother. Location is
tip-top: Mendana Ave is just a few singsing
steps via a shortcut. There’s a comfy commu-
nal area with a polished wooden floor, where
guests slump on couches in front of the TV.
From the veranda, you can contemplate wide
views of the harbour. No alcohol is allowed
on the premises, but there’s a small shop sell-
ing basic foodstuffs downstairs. All in all, it’s
great value, but it’s not perfect: rooms are tiny
and lack intimacy (windows open right onto
the public area and corridors). Optimal for
women travellers.
Solomon City Motel (%24862; Lower Vayvaya Rd;
r S$150-250) Reposed over sloping grounds with
lots of tree and flower coverage, this unpreten-
tious joint is very different in atmosphere from
the alcohol-free Chester Resthouse and United
Church Resthouse. Wanna guzzle a few beers?
No problem, the young manager will be more
than happy to enjoy a few stubbies with you.
The rooms are spartan and claustrophobic
(the fan occupies half the ceilings). An OK
place for unfussy male travellers.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Most places accept credit cards.
Zome Accommodation (%26902; fax 26903; off
Skyline Dr; r S$250-300; a) This little B&B-like oasis
in a quiet neighbourhood is a reliable standby
despite being a bit far from the action, up a
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
steep road. The rooms, some of which come
with private facilities, are compact and lack-
ing in charm but perfectly serviceable. A new
wing was being built at the time of research
and will feature eight air-con rooms when
it’s completed.
Quality Inn (%25150; fax 25277; Lower Vayvaya Rd;
r S$350-680; ai) The linoleum floor should
just be ripped out, the particle-board furnish-
ings need to be replaced and the bordello-red
curtains should be dumped, but the functional
amenities, quiet setting and key location keep
it on the radar screen. Digs are commodious
and cleanish, and come with a balcony over-
looking the harbour.
Honiara Hotel (%21737; reservation@honiarahotel
.com.sb; Chinatown; r S$390-816; ais) This hotel
scores high on amenities, with a restaurant, a
bar, a disco and, joy of joys, an Olympic-sized
pool complete with sunlounges. Deluxe rooms
in the recent wing (Nos 811 to 824 and Nos
831 to 834) are appealing and light-filled; they
come with sea views and a private terrace. The
standard rooms feel outdated and uninspiring
in comparison.
Ritaleven Inn (%22902, 39192; Panatina; r without
bathrooms S$450) A pleasant surprise, this well-
maintained abode feels like a peaceful B&B,
with only three rooms and a kitchen for guests’
use. Top marks go to the shared bathrooms,
which are squeaky-clean, and the thick mat-
tresses. It’s about 4km east of the centre, in the
Panatina district. Minibuses and taxis pass by
on the main road (a mere five-minute walk),
so getting back and forth is easy enough.
Pacific Casino Hotel (%25009; paccashtl@solomon
.com.sb; Panatina; r S$600-1110; ai) Like a phoe-
nix, this place has risen from the ashes after
having been destroyed during the 2006 riots
and had just reopened when we dropped by.
Sad to say, but the two-storey barrack-style
block is an ugly duckling, and the long cor-
ridors could set the stage for The Shining. The
only touch of fancy is in the reception area,
embellished with eye-catching frescoes. On
the plus side, rooms are spacious, well or-
ganised and boast the requisite comforts. The
extensive grounds encompass two restaurants
and, as the name suggests, a casino. It has a
waterfront location but given the odd layout
most rooms have no views (despite what the
brochure says). It’s 2km west of the centre.
King Solomon Hotel (%21205; Hibiscus Ave; r S$825-
1100; ais) Traditional carvings greet you
as you step in from the blazing sun into the
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
vast lobby of this longstanding favourite,
which ticks all the right boxes: professional
staff; a stellar location; a good restaurant; a
congenial bar; and a variety of comfortable,
well-equipped units scattered amid lush green
gardens that carpet a steep hill. A kinky fu-
nicular shunts people between the rooms and
the reception area. It has an inviting pool built
into the hill.
Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel (%20071; reserv@
mendana.com.sb; Mendana Ave; r S$850-1100; ais) If
you want to launch yourself into the heart of
the action, this is your answer. Like most hotels
in Honiara, this one has some bright rooms
and some darker ones, so definitely ask to
see a few before plonking down your money.
A new wing was being built when we passed
through. With any luck, it will be finished by
the time you read this. Flake out in the lounge,
make use of the well-stocked bar and refresh
yourself in the little pool at the back.
Eating
Nings Bakery (%28371; Hibiscus Ave; h6am-7pm Mon-
Fri, to 3pm Sat, to noon Sun) You can gauge the level
of carbohydrate addiction of an expat or local
if they know about this bakery-cum-cafeteria.
Those not in-the-know obviously haven’t sur-
rendered to the delights of the gooey pudding
cake (S$3). Other temptations (though much
more ordinary in taste) include chocolate cake
and buns. Go. Just don’t blame us if you can’t
fit into your wetsuit the next day.
Hot Bread Kitchen (Mendana Ave; h6am-8pm) For
the most flavoursome buns (S$3) in town, take
your sticky fingers to this unassuming outlet
on the main drag. Come early; by noon it is
sold out. Bread is also available.
Nings Coffee Shop (%28371; Hibiscus Ave; mains
S$15-40; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri) Step into this at-
tractive cafeteria-cum-fast-food outlet for
an escape from the dusty streets. With its
wrought-iron-like chairs and colourful
walls, it’s almost trendy by Honiaran stand-
ards. Tuck into marinated pork or beef, chilli
tuna, fried chicken or sandwiches, or keep up
your strength with a decent cappuccino. Small
wonder it quickly fills at lunchtime (takeaway
available). Same location as Nings Bakery, but
separate entrance.
Point Cruz Yacht-Club (%22500; Mendana Ave; mains
S$25-50; hlunch & dinner) Never short of a happy
crowd, this Honiara institution is best known
for its cold Solbrew than for its affordable fare.
It’s a shame, because the dishes are simple and
G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 255
full of flavour. Burgers go down well with the
brews here, but you can also treat your taste-
buds to kingfish steak, sirloin steak or beef
curry. And the seafront lies just beyond the
glass. There are plans to refurbish the place,
so keep your ears to the ground.
Lime Lounge (%23064; off Mendana Ave; mains S$25-
70; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) This
accomplished modern place that seems to
have been imported direct from Oz thinks
it is the snazziest spot in town. One thing is
sure: it’s the meeting point for expats who are
yearning for a satisfying breakfast (muesli!) or
a light meal. There’s everything from palate-
pleasing salads to well-made sandwiches
and devilish banana cakes – and perhaps the
illusion of being back home. The walls are
adorned with paintings by local artists, which
gives the place a splash of style.
Garden Seafood (%22298; Mendana Ave; mains S$35-
180; hlunch & dinner) Here you can fuel up with
Chinese staples such as sweet-and-sour fish
fillet or prawns with nuts. The décor is a bit
SOLOMON ISLANDS
bleak and the food isn’t the best (think gluggy
sauce), but it’s filling, cheap and very central.
oRaintree Café (%22086; White River; mains
S$40-150; h7am-10pm) This suave number run
by a group of ladies boasts one of the most
agreeable settings in Honiara. Picture a lovely
waterfront location and soul-stirring views
of Savo. The tropical décor is easy on the eye,
with wooden furnishings, thatched roof and
candlelit tables – alfresco dining doesn’t come
any better than this (it’s BYO). Choose be-
tween copious breakfasts, a parade of bounti-
ful pizzas (served from 4pm), omelettes, daily
specials chalked up on the blackboard and
melt-in-your-mouth homemade cakes. And
don’t get us started on the fruit salad with
honey and yogurt. Vegetarians should enjoy
the crunchy ‘garden salad’ served in a trad-
itional wooden bowl. It’s such a shame that
the service is so slow. It’s in White River,
about 3km west of the centre. Has wi-fi.
Hong Kong Palace (%23338; Hibiscus Ave; mains
S$40-200; h lunch & dinner) This unmissable
blood-red pagoda on Hibiscus Ave brings
an unexpected dash of orientalism in an
otherwise dull area. Inside, it’s much more
sterile, with neons and tiles, but you’ll be
too busy choosing from the mile-long menu
to notice. Seafood is king of the castle here,
with a wide choice of crab, shrimp, lobster,
fish and squid dishes. The soundtrack is an
odd cacophony that fuses the sizzling woks
 256 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 257

in the kitchen and the blaring TV in the
dining room.
Capitana Restaurant (%20071; Solomon Kitano
Mendana Hotel, Mendana Ave; mains S$50-180; hlunch &
dinner) Oral pleasures (of the Japanese variety)
never tasted so good at this restaurant inside
the Mendana Hotel. Ever heard of yakisakana
(grilled kingfish in ponzu sauce) or yosenabe
(hotpot of seafood, chicken and vegetables)?
It’s time to learn. If you’re feeling conservative,
stick to the sashimi or classic Western dishes.
Another strong point is the wine list, with
a wide selection of Australian tipples (from
S$80). Two minuses: the faded tablecloths and
the elevator soundtrack – nothing’s perfect.
Sea King (%23678; off Mendana Ave; mains S$60-
200; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Ignore the chubby
golden Buddha at the entrance; the stadium-
sized dining room is less clichéd. This place
has garnered high praise for its Chinese dishes
that emphasise seafood.
Le Rendez Vous Restaurant (%21205; King Solomon
Hotel, Hibiscus Ave; mains S$75-180; hlunch & dinner) This
SOLOMON ISLANDS
After having two satisfying dinners here, all
we can say is: vraiment très bon (really very
good). Just one grumble: the big fake fish and
siren at the back are ludicrous.
Drinking
The bar scene is not that dead in Honiara.
There are a few congenial spots where you can
lubricate your gullet in pleasant surrounds.
At the end of the night, take a cab to get back
to your hotel.
Point Cruz Yacht-Club (Mendana Ave; h11am-
midnight) Hands down, this is the coolest spot
in town to sink a Solbrew and the best place to
hear the local goss. It’s the gathering place for
yachties, expats, aid workers and local punt-
ers. The whole place is to be fully redesigned
and it should be completed by the time you
read this. Wi-fi.
Lime Lounge (off Mendana Ave; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri,
8am-3pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun; a) A godsend when it’s
sweltering hot, thanks to industrial-strength
air-con. It’s the premier place to indulge in
VOICES: DOROTHY WICKHAM, BROADCAST RADIO JOURNALIST
Dorothy is a former stringer for various international television networks and one of the leading
journalists in her field in the Solomons. Until recently the country did not have its own national
television station until One News TV was established in June 2006. Coverage is limited to Honiara
but there are plans to cover other islands.
What motivated you to launch One News TV? I found it annoying to see that the coverage of
my country was in the hands of foreign TV crews. This feeling culminated during the Tension,
when I worked as a fixer for foreign TV crews. There was no local angle to what was said about
the Solomons. With the help of Solomons Telekom, I built a small team and launched One News
TV during the Soccer World Cup, to ensure maximum audience.
How have the locals responded to the broadcasts? We broadcast two hours per day, and
people wait for our broadcasts now, which is a no mean feat given that radio has always been
the predominant source of information in this country.
What about media independence? Well, it’s pretty good here, we have freedom and we do
criticise the government. Our editorial integrity is guaranteed. The biggest difficulty was to get
politicians willing to talk in front of a camera; it was so unusual for them at that time. But now
they understand the impact of this medium, and they consider One News as a tool to educate
and inform people.

is not the most romantic spot for a rendez-
vous, but it has a reputation for fine food
and an airy setting with funky wooden tables
and chairs under a thatched roof. The menu
covers enough territory to please most palates,
with such classics as chilli garlic prawns, beef
eye fillet, burgers and fish of the day. Good
fruit platter too.
Shogun – Casablanca (%28632; Mendana Ave; mains
S$90-180; hdinner) One venue, two restaurants;
it’s perfect if you’re undecided. The Alps meet
the Pacific at the Casablanca. There’s a good
range of pasta dishes and hit-and-miss pizzas.
Steaks, fish and lobster plump up the menu.
Too bland for you? The refined interior of the
Shogun puts you in the right mood for well-
prepared Japanese dishes. There’s a breezy
terrace for alfresco dining.
oClub Havanah (%21737; Honiara Hotel,
Chinatown; mains S$110-180; hdinner) Expats and the
local glitterati saunter here for upper-crust fare
with a strong French accent thanks to Georges,
the French chef, who can be seen through the
glass, working his magic in the kitchen. The
pages of its menu are a gateway to wonder.
Whet your palate with cracking petits gris far-
cis au coeur d’ail (snails with garlic), wolf down
a lip-smacking médaillons de boeuf aux trois
sauces (beef medallions with three sauces) and
finish off your meal with, say, nougat glacé au
miel et amandes (frozen dessert with candied
fruit, almonds, honey and whipped cream).
chilled liquid treats such as bush lime, juices
and smoothies. Good coffee, too. Wi-fi.
Raintree Café (White River; h7am-10pm) Enjoying
a sunset beverage in this wonderfully mellow
place in White River is escapism at its best.
Spiffing setting, right by the seashore. Luscious
smoothies and vitamin-packed juices, as well
as award-winning coffee. Wi-fi.
Hotel bars are open to non-guests and are
a good place to hook up with expats. The in-
house, pub-like bar at King Solomon Hotel
was the most lively when we researched. Also
try the bar at Mendana Hotel.
Entertainment
There are a few hotspots that deliver earbusting
tunes and hot-and-sweaty dancing. They are
rather naff by Western standards but after a few
weeks spent in other provinces, you’ll find them
almost happening. Friday and Saturday are the
liveliest nights but sometimes it can be pretty
quiet for no apparent reason. Music-wise, ex-
pect an eclectic mix of island and Western hits.
Entrance fees are S$10 to S$20.
The best places to showcase your à la John
Travolta (or Olivia Newton-John) dance style
include Flamingo (Honiara Hotel, Chinatown, p254); Bula
Bar (Airport Motel, Henderson), close to the airport;
Club 106 (Pacific Casino Hotel, Panatina, p254); and the
more recent dance hall at the King Solomon
Hotel. They are safe for women travellers –
there’s security – but steer clear of inebriated
patrons. The very raucous Club Paradise (Mendana
Ave), right in the centre, is best avoided.
King Solomon Hotel has a karaoke night on
Friday and a twice-weekly traditional dance
show. Honiara Hotel puts a dance show on
Friday night. Live bands play at Point Cruz
Yacht Club (opposite) on Friday.
Shopping
Honiara is a good place to pick up souvenirs.
Why not bring back a nicely carved nguzu
nguzu (no, it’s not a penis gourd) for jealous
friends at home? There are a few prominent
stores with better-than-average crafts on or
around the main drag, including Melanesian
Handicraft (%22189; www.melanesianhandicraft.com.sb;
Point Cruz) and King Solomon’s Handicraft (Mendana
Ave). The NPF Plaza shopping mall hosts a few
good stores. It’s also worth considering the
gift shops at the Solomon Kitano Mendana
Hotel (p255) and King Solomon Hotel, as well
as the shop at the National Museum (p251).
For shell jewellery, head to the central mar-
ket (p251). For T-shirts, postcards, CDs of
local music and other souvenirs, DJ Graphics
(%22011; Mendana Ave) is the best bet.
Getting There & Away
AIR
International flights land at Honiara’s
Henderson Airport, and all domestic routes
SOLOMON ISLANDS
begin and end in Honiara. See p306 for de-
tails of international flights. Guadalcanal
Travel Services (p249) is an agent for Solomon
Airlines, Our Airline, Air Niugini and Air
Pacific. Solomon Airlines (%20031; www.solomonair
lines.com.au; Mendana Ave; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30-
11.30am Sat) main office is in the centre of town.
BOAT
Most shipping companies have offices near
Honiara’s main wharf. Getting around by
freighter is a slow process.
The most reliable service is offered by the
two passengers boats MV Pelican Express (%28104;
Komi Fera Bldg, Point Cruz; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri,
to noon Sat) and MV Solomon Express (%28064; Komi
Fera Bldg, Point Cruz; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri). Both
run once a week between Honiara and Malaita
(Auki, S$160), and between Honiara and
Western Province (Mbunikalo, S$240; Seghe,
S$300; Noro, S$340; Gizo, S$380). Tickets can
be bought on board.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The taxi fare from the airport into town is
S$50. It’s an 11km ride.
CAR
The following companies rent cars (from
S$550 per day):
 258 G UA D A LC A N A L • • A r o u n d H o n i a r a
Avis (%24180; qcmotors@solomon.com.sb; Chinatown)
Zome (%26902; fax 26903; off Skyline Dr)
MINIBUS
Honiara’s minibuses are cheap, frequent (in
daylight hours) and safe. The flat fare around
town is S$3.
TAXI
There are taxis everywhere in Honiara. They
don’t have meters but charge per kilometre
(S$5).
AROUND HONIARA
Traversing peaceful settlements where time
moves at a crawl, you wouldn’t think the area
outside Honiara was the centre stage of battles
between rival factions during the Tension.
Fear not, it’s now perfectly safe.
There are excellent places within a day’s
travelling of Honiara. Even if visiting bat-
tlefields doesn’t usually float your boat, you
can’t help but be moved by the poignant sites
SOLOMON ISLANDS
around Honiara that played a crucial role dur-
ing the Pacific war.
Exploring the north coast by public trans-
port is feasible but it’s not really convenient.
Most sights are not signed and are not easy
to find without a knowledgeable guide. We
suggest taking an organised tour with one
of the reputable tour operators in Honiara
(see p253).
East of Honiara
This side of Honiara is more built-up than the
western side, with much development along
the coastal road. Once you get inland to the
central foothills, you’ll get a back-to-nature
feel. Most of the WWII battlefields are in the
vicinity of Henderson Airport.
The road is surfaced as far as the Mberande
River, and gravel from the Mberande River to
Aola (Map pp250–1), the prewar capital of
Guadalcanal, 76km east of Honiara. The road
ends here and this is as far as motor vehicles
can travel. Only footpaths and logging tracks
continue beyond.
The following sights are listed in a geo-
graphical order, from west to east except for
the grouped WWII sights.
MATANIKO FALLS
If you need to cool off, these little cascades
beckon. The hike starts in Lelei village with
a steep ascent to a ridge (without shade),
lonelyplanet.com
followed by an easier stretch amid mildly
undulating hills from where you can enjoy
smashing views of Henderson and the
Guadalcanal Plains. Then you’ll tackle the
final section: a gruelling descent on a slippery,
muddy path to reach the floor of the little
canyon where the Mataniko flows. You can
float all the way back to Lelei if there’s enough
water. It can be a lot of fun. It’s roughly a two-
hour return trip to do this walk, and a guide
is required. Your best bet is to go through a
tour operator (see p253) in Honiara. Good
shoes are essential.
MT AUSTEN ROAD
The road to Mt Austen begins in Kukum and
climbs up to the historical sites where Japanese
troops doggedly resisted the US advance.
The Solomons Peace Memorial Park, about
3.5km from the main coastal road, has a large,
white memorial. It was built by Japanese war
veterans in 1981 to commemorate all who
died in the WWII Guadalcanal campaign.
Enjoy the sweeping views over Honiara and
towards Savo and the Nggelas.
Continuing south for about 3km, the
thick bush opens to reveal an elevated clear-
ing about 200m west of the road (it’s now
partly occupied by a school). This is the site
of the Gifu, named after a Japanese district by
its wartime Japanese defenders. Very fiercely
defended, it was the Japanese forward com-
mand post, important in their efforts to cap-
ture Henderson. It finally fell to the USA in
mid-January 1943 after its starving defenders
were wiped out making a final banzai attack.
You’ll find a more detailed description of the
battle on a plaque at the turn-off.
About 2km south of the Gifu is the summit
of Mt Austen (410m). A dirt track leads to a
former Japanese Observation Point. Americans in
WWII dubbed this spot Grassy Knoll. There’s
a plaque that explains the strategic importance
of Mt Austen during WWII.
BETIKAMA
About 6.5km from Honiara and 200m before
Lungga Bridge, you’ll reach the turn-off for
the Betikama Seventh-Day Adventist Mission
(SDA), 1.6km to the south. The sprawling
property comprises a large handicraft shop,
Betikama Carvings Shop (% 30223; h 8am-
noon & 1-5pm Sun-Fri), specialising in Western
Province products and stylish modern cop-
perware. Much of the carving is done by
lonelyplanet.com
school children who’ve come to Betikama
(Map pp2501M03D) from SDA villages in the New
Georgia Islands.
Just outside the craft shop there’s a small
WWII museum with an outdoor collection of sal-
vaged material (mostly US aircraft), two small
Japanese anti-tank guns and a well-preserved
British Bren gun carrier. Inside, at the rear of
the shop, is a collection of WWII photographs
and memorabilia.
WWII SITES
Outside the Henderson Airport entrance, it’s
worth having a look at the small Memorial
Gardens that honour US forces and their
Pacific Islander allies. In front is a Japanese
anti-aircraft gun. About 100m to the west
of the buildings is the scaffolding-style
WWII control tower, disused since the
early 1950s.
A track running either side of the airport
leads south to an area called Bloody Ridge (Map
pp2501M03E), or Edson’s Ridge, after Edson’s
Raiders. Commanded by Colonel Merritt
Edson, they defended the ridge against the
Japanese in 1942 in their determined but
unsuccessful attempts to seize the airfield.
There’s a little US war memorial on the ridge.
About 1km beyond Bloody Ridge, you’ll come
across a Japanese war memorial that honours
the 2000 or more Japanese killed during these
actions. There’s a S$20 kastom fee.
Back to the coast, you’ll find a marble mon-
ument surrounded by long grass at Hell’s Point
(Map pp2501M03F), about 50m east of Alligator’s
Creek. This is a poignant site for Japanese
visitors. The Japanese Colonel Kiyono Ichiki
and his 800 men ‘died with courage’ here on
20 August 1942 after a banzai attack from the
eastern side of the creek against US machine
guns and artillery mounted on its western
bank. There’s also a deserted black-sand beach
where you can lay your towel. It’s about 2km
west of the airport.
On this long sandy Red Beach (Map
pp2501M034), a lonely, very rusted Japanese gun,
placed here by US veterans, points forlornly
out to sea. This is the only reminder of the US
landings here in 1942.
A few metres before reaching the shore of
Tetere Beach (Map pp2501M0341), a dirt track to the
west leads to 30 or more abandoned amtracks.
Many of these rusty relics are shielded by
prickly thorns, which adds to the poignancy
of the site. There’s a S$25 kastom fee.
G UA D A LC A N A L • • A r o u n d H o n i a r a 259
TENARU
About 4.5km past the airport, a road heads
inland and follows the west bank of the Tenaru
River. After 1.5km there’s Marine Hospital No
8, the first wartime hospital in Guadalcanal.
It’s in the grounds of St Joseph’s School, in
Tenaru Village (off Map pp2523M0342). Many of
the old WWII buildings and the concrete
base remain.
The Tenaru Falls make for an ideal plan
B if you don’t feel fit enough to tackle the
Mataniko Falls. It’s a fairly easy four-hour
walk (return) from a tiny settlement about
2km south of Tenaru Village. It’s flat and
shady all the way. The path follows the floor
of the river valley and cuts across the river’s
many bends, crossing and recrossing a dozen
times before reaching the falls. The water’s
usually not more than calf-high. The truth
is, at 63m, these waterfalls are much, much
higher and more spectacular than the dimin-
utive Mataniko Falls. They thunder down
into a deep natural pool where you can take
SOLOMON ISLANDS
a refreshing dip – an instant elixir after all
that exertion.
A guide is required. Your best bet is to go
through a tour operator (p253) in Honiara.
West of Honiara
Life becomes very sedate as one heads west
through some of the north coast’s delicious
scenery. Urban life is left behind once the road
traverses White River and crawls its way along
the scenic coastline to Lambi Bay.
At the time of writing, the tarred section
ended shortly after Ndoma, but the road
should be surfaced up to Visale by the time
you read this guide.
The area boasts a high historical signifi-
cance. The seas between Guadalcanal’s north-
western coast and Savo island were the site of
constant naval battles between August 1942
and February 1943. By the time the Japanese
finally withdrew, so many ships had been
sunk it became known as Iron Bottom Sound
(Map pp2501M034).
It’s worth stopping in Poha to take a
peek at a Japanese memorial, with three mar-
ble slabs. There’s also a rusty tank behind
the memorial.
Popular with locals and expats at weekends,
Mamara Beach has black sand and is OK for
swimming and bathing.
About 12km from Honiara, Bonegi (Map
pp2501M0345) is music to the ears of divers. Two
 260 G UA D A LC A N A L • • E a s t e r n G u a d a l c a n a l
large Japanese freighters sank just offshore on
the night of 13 November 1942 and make for a
magnificent playground for scuba divers, who
call them Bonegi I and Bonegi II. As the upper
works of Bonegi II break the surface, it can be
snorkelled. For more information on diving
these sites, see p253 and p60. There’s also a
black-sand beach that is suitable for a picnic
or a snooze under the swaying palms. There’s
a kastom fee of S$25 per person.
Just past the Bonegi II site, at Tasivarongo
Point, there’s a bush track that heads inland
and runs about 400m to a well-preserved US
Sherman tank called Jezebel which was used for
wartime target practice once the Guadalcanal
campaign was over.
At Ruaniu (also known as Bonegi III), about
4.5km west from Bonegi II, there’s a 6500-
tonne Japanese transport ship, believed to
be the Kyushu Maru, that just lies offshore –
another superb playground for divers.
VILU OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
SOLOMON ISLANDS
About 25km from Honiara, a turn to the
south from the coastal road brings you
within 1km to the Vilu Open-Air Museum (S$25;
hdawn-dusk). There are US and Japanese
memorials, four large Japanese field guns
and the remains of several US aircraft, in-
cluding a Wildcat fighter whose wings
can still be folded as they were for naval
carrier-borne operations.
NDOMA
Continue about 1km to Ndoma. The main rea-
son to stop here is to dive the wreck of the US
B17 Flying Fortress bomber which lies 100m
off the dark-grey sand beach (see p60).
CAPE ESPÉRANCE
Named by the French explorer D’Entre-
casteaux in 1793 after the Espérance, it was
from here that the Japanese successfully
evacuated most of their 13,000 starving men
at the end of the Guadalcanal campaign in
January and February 1943. They assembled
on a hill just behind the cape to await evacu-
ation, and were then given one hour to board
the waiting ships.
About 2km to the west is the settlement
of Vila, which is a good place to find a shared
canoe ride to Savo (see p262). About 1km
further west (and 40km from Honiara) is
Visale, a timeless hamlet blessed with a ma-
jestic setting – it’s wedged between the sea
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
and a soaring, velvet-green hill. Soak up the
rural atmosphere and visit the large Roman
Catholic mission.
VEURU
About 42km from Honiara, the Japanese I-
class submarine I-23 is 350m from the shore
on a nearby reef. It’s a renowned dive site
(see p60).
EASTERN GUADALCANAL
Eastern Guadalcanal’s trophy piece is Marau
Sound (Map pp2501M0347). This lagoon at the east-
ern tip of the island features a bewitching
blend of islands, fringing reefs, shoals and
coral gardens.
The only settlement of consequence is
Manikaraku, with a few government offices,
stores and a clinic. The region’s star attrac-
tion is the mellifluous-sounding Tavanipupu
island.
Sleeping & Eating
oTavanipupu Island Resort (%22586 in Honiara;
Tavanipupu island; s incl 3 meals A$250) If you’ve ever
dreamed of having your own island paradise,
this idyllic retreat has all the key ingredients –
exclusivity, seclusion, atmosphere. Digs are
in six tastefully decorated, spacious bunga-
lows with hardwood furnishings. They are
scattered in a well-tended coconut grove that
overlooks the beach, and beds are possibly the
most comfortable in the Solomons. There’s no
electricity, but kerosene lamps are provided.
The restaurant utilises the freshest seafood,
including lobster, and does good desserts.
Snorkelling is excellent (gear provided) and
you can work your tan on sandy beaches. In
case you tire of looking at the sea, there’s a
library and board games. Bookings are made
through Guadalcanal Travel Services (p249)
in Honiara. Rates include boat transfers
and meals.
Tawaihi Island Retreat (%24634, 94127 in Honiara;
Tawaihi island; s incl 3 meals S$460) Peter, an Australian
citizen, and his wife Dee, a Solomon Islander,
go the extra yard to please visitors. On Tawaihi
island, facing the mainland, three cheerfully
ramshackle bungalows are equipped with firm
beds, functional bathrooms and a veranda
overlooking the sea. The beach is average
but you can snorkel, bushwalk or fish. Book
through Peter’s contact in Honiara, Solomon
Airlines or SIVB. Boat transfers from Marau
airfield are included.
lonelyplanet.com
Getting There & Away
Solomon Airlines has a twice-weekly flight
to Marau (S$910 return). This very scenic
flight takes you over the rugged mountain-
ous interior.
It’s a 20-minute boat ride from the airfield
to Tavanipupu island, and a 10-minute boat
ride to Tawaihi island.
THE WEATHERCOAST
And now Guadalcanal’s forgotten corner. A
void on the travel radar, it tugs at the adven-
turer within. Travelling here is like a treas-
ure hunt: the jewels have to be earned. The
southern shore’s poor weather conditions
have discouraged human settlement, and
there’s only a sprinkling of sparsely populated
villages along the coast, including Tangarere,
Mbanbanakira (equipped with an airstrip),
Komate, Kuma and Avu Avu.
Fast-flowing creeks tumble down the steep
sides of tall, jagged mountains, some in a
continuous chain of small cascades. Ridges
covered in thick, green bush fall abruptly to
the shore. With very rustic (but acceptable)
facilities and not another foreigner for miles,
this is somewhere to wind down a few gears.
The biggest problem (or advantage, de-
pending on your perspective) is accessibility.
Roads? Regular boats or flights? Dream on!
You’ll have to blaze your own trail – literally –
on foot or by boat, or combining both. Making
a journey on foot around the Weathercoast is
testing, awe-inspiring and full of surprises,
but it’s a journey that you’ll never forget. It’s
a four- to six-day coastal trek from Lambi Bay
to Kuma, with splendid scenery all the way.
The three- to four-day walk from Kuma to
Marau Sound follows the most stunning part
of the island’s southern coast. If you want
ὄὄ ὄὄ
to shorten your trip, you can arrange canoe
rides between villages. There’s no formal
accommodation, only village stays. A guide
is mandatory.
CENTRAL PROVINCE
To Western
Province
RUSSELL IS
SOLOMON SEA
Pavuvu I
Yandina
Wernham
Mbanika I
Kuila
Cove
C E N T R A L P R O V I N C E • • N g g e l a I s l a n d s 261
Another option is to fly to Marau Sound
(see opposite) and start your trip from
there. Solomon Airlines also has a weekly
flight to Avu Avu, but don’t count on it for
it’s frequently cancelled. It’s also possible
to do cross-island treks starting from the
northern coast.
The best source of information on hiking
in the Weathercoast is Treks and Adventures
in The Solomon Islands (March 2007), a 67-
page guide written by a group of Australian
expats. They provide very detailed descrip-
tions of the treks as well as invaluable tips
and contacts. It can be downloaded from the
SIVB website (www.visitsolomons.com.sb).
CENTRAL PROVINCE
Lucky Honiarans. They don’t have to ven-
ture very far before the outside world starts
to feel a long, long way away. A two-hour
boat ride transports them (and you) to yet
SOLOMON ISLANDS
another world either in the Nggela (Florida)
group or on Savo.
Central Province also comprises the
Russell Islands. Only the Nggela group and
Savo have tourist infrastructure.
NGGELA ISLANDS
Sipping a cold beverage at the Point Cruz
Yacht Club (p256) or Raintree Café (p255)
in Honiara you may well wonder what
islands the rugged silhouettes looming ma-
jestically on the northern horizon are. They
form the Nggela group, or Florida Islands,
between Guadalcanal and Malaita.
The two main islands are Tulagi and Nggela
Sule. They have fairly rugged interiors, con-
voluted coastlines, long white-sand beaches
(they look great from the air on the Honiara–
Auki flight) and mangrove swamps.
The Nggelas’ main draws? Diving, snorkel-
ling and an ultrachilled atmosphere.
0 20 km
0 12 miles
Buena Vista I
In
di
sp
Mangalonga (Mana) I NGGELA
e ns
(FLORIDA) IS ab
le
Sandfly I Rara
S
Nggela Sule I
tr
Sandfly Siota
a
Passage
it
Tulagi Salesape
Savo I Tulaghi I
Nggela
(484m) Iron Bottom Pile I Toa
Sound
Tanatau Cove
 262 C E N T R A L P R O V I N C E • • S a v o
Mangalonga (Mana)
Tranquillity reigns supreme on this small
island near the northern end of the Nggela
group. Come here for total isolation and
decompress at Maravagi Resort (%/fax 29065;
r A$50), which has an exceptional location –
believe us, you’ll never forget your first glimpse
of the gorgeous coral pinnacles that extend
just off the dining room. Be sure to bring your
snorkelling gear. The bungalows, while hardly
posh, are clean and comfortable and feature
private bathrooms, breezy terraces, mozzie
nets and electricity. Avoid the six charmless
adjoining rooms at the back. Food (meals per
day A$47) is tasty and copious. There’s not
a great deal to do on the island apart from
spending time in the water, but village visits
and snorkelling trips to Sandfly Passage can
be arranged. Boat transfers from Honiara cost
a whopping A$182 for two people (A$276 for
four). Credit cards are accepted.
Sandfly Passage
SOLOMON ISLANDS
The Sandfly Passage is famous for one thing:
the year-round presence of manta rays, which
can easily be seen while snorkelling. It’s truly
amazing. See p61.
Tulagi
In the middle of the Nggelas, on Tulaghi
island, Tulagi was the Solomons’ former capi-
tal; it was also a Japanese base during WWII.
This laid-back town, where time moves at a
crawl, has a few useful services for travellers,
including a post office, an ANZ ATM (but
bring cash in case it gets wobbly), a Telekom
office and a couple of places to stay. Boat
building and the administration of provincial
government are its main activities. There’s a
beach on the western side of the island, but
don’t expect powdery sand. It’s a leisurely
two-hour walk following the 9km gravel track
around the island.
There’s fabulous diving off Tulagi, including
world-class wrecks (see p61). Based at Vanita
Motel, Tulagi Dive (%32131, 32052; www.tulagidive
.com.sb) is a highly professional dive shop run
by Australian Neil Yates, who adheres to strict
safety procedures for deep dives. Top marks
for its excellent gear, too. Prices start at S$350
for a reef dive (S$450 for a deep dive). Gear
hire is S$400, and transfers from Honiara cost
S$500 return.
Most divers bunk down at Vanita Motel
(%32074; fax 32186; r without bathroom S$180, r with
lonelyplanet.com
bathroom S$230-250), next door to Tulagi Dive.
It’s a no-frills place with bog-standard two-
bed rooms, but it’s clean, quiet and affordable;
perfect if you want to save your bucks for
the lovely diving. Food (meals from S$30)
is average.
Women travellers who’d like to interact
with local women can stay at the friendly
Mothers’ Union & Women Resource Centre (%32116,
32113; r without bathroom S$150), a surprisingly
well-kept house on the other side of the
island. There are six fan-cooled rooms with
laminate floors and a kitchen for guests’ use.
Meals can be arranged on request. No alcohol
is allowed.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Boats link Tulagi with Honiara (S$60,
about 1½ hours). In Honiara, they leave
from the little beach near Point Cruz Yacht
Club. The duration of the crossing is very
much weather-dependent.
SAVO
If you’re a reality-TV show producer, re-
joice: Savo has the ideal setting for your next
shooting of Survivor, with a laid-back tempo,
a couple of welcoming accommodation op-
tions and yes, wild, wild scenery. Though
lying just 14km north of Guadalcanal, Savo
is a world away from the capital, which will
seem like a bustling metropolis once you’ve
made it here. It’s an active volcano with a pair
of dormant but potentially dangerous craters,
one enclosing the other. Much of the island is
fringed by coconut groves and a narrow strip
of grey-sand beach.
The island has a number of hot springs and
thermal areas containing boiling mud pools.
The most easily accessible are Reoka hot
springs, which can be reached after a one-hour
walk following the course of the Kolika River
upstream – a very scenic walk in a tropical
setting. The final stretch is a bit tricky; you’ll
have to clamber in parts. The water bubbling
up is hot enough to poach an egg.
Make sure you see the megapode field which
extends for around 400m along the beach, to
the northwest of Savo. During the night, hun-
dreds of female birds come to the field and dig
down to about 90cm, where the temperature is
ideal to incubate their eggs. Come very early
as the birds fly off once the villagers come
to harvest the eggs, which are considered a
local delicacy.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Savo is one of the most dependable loca-
tions in the Solomons to spot pods of dolphins,
which usually congregate off the west coast
and can be seen frolicking around boats: a
magical experience.
Sleeping & Eating
Book your lodging through Solomon Islands
Visitors Bureau in Honiara (p249). The fol-
lowing places are in Kuila village on the west
coast. They can arrange dolphin watching as
well as guided walks to hot springs and to the
megapode field (S$30 to S$80 per person).
Kuila Village Stay (s incl 3 meals S$150) Four
seriously rustic rooms in a house made
from wooden planks, right in the village.
Shared facilities.
Sunset Lodge (%21213 in Honiara; s incl 3 meals S$230)
Owned by former Prime Minister and current
MP Sir Allan Kemakeza, this is your best bet if
you’re in search of a relaxing getaway without
being too disconnected from the trappings of
modern civilisation. It features 20 tidy rooms,
some with private bathrooms, in a fairly drab
concrete building on a hillside. Be sure to ask
for a sea-facing room upstairs (downstairs
rooms are pretty dark). Food is a definite plus,
with copious meals using local ingredients,
including (you guessed it), megapode eggs.
Hmm, fluffy omelettes. It’s a 10-minute walk
south of Kuila Village Stay.
Getting There & Away
Tour operators in Honiara (p253) organise
full-day trips to Savo but we recommend
staying at least two days to soak up the at-
mosphere. Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau
in Honiara (p249) can also organise transfers
(from S$500 charter one-way).
Another option is to hook onto a shared boat
ride from Vila (northwest of Guadalcanal) or
Honiara (S$80, about 1¾ hours). In Honiara,
inquire at the little beach near the Point Cruz
Yacht Club.
RUSSELL ISLANDS
Lucky you! If you read this section, this
probably means you’re going to do a cruise
on a live-aboard dive boat such as the MV
Bilikiki (Map pp2523M034C) or the MV Spirit of
Solomons (Map pp252-3; www.bilikiki.com), the only
outfits that schedule regular trips around
the Russell Islands. This is a famous dive
destination, with exciting underwater to-
pography and prolific marine life. For in-
W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • W e s t N e w G e o r g i a 263
formation on diving in the Russell Islands,
see p61.
There are two main islands in the Russells
group, Pavuvu and Mbanika, plus 70 smaller
islets. Yandina is the only town of consequence.
The archipelago has lots of hidden treasures:
traditional cultures, lovely white-sand beaches,
prolific reef growth, sapphire-blue waters and
a pristine environment. Surprisingly, despite
its phenomenal tourist potential and its prox-
imity to Honiara, this gem of an archipelago
hasn’t been developed – yet. Things might
change in the near future, though; the Russell
Islands is earmarked for development by local
tourist authorities and investors.
Meanwhile, if a dive cruise is beyond
your financial means, you can always fly
from Honiara to Munda (or Gizo) over the
Russells. On a clear day, the views you’ll
get of the archipelago will be forever etched
into your memory. Just be sure to get a
window seat!
SOLOMON ISLANDS
WESTERN PROVINCE
The Western Province hosts much of the
Solomons’ tourist industry, and it’s no won-
der. It has everything in spades. Rejoicing
begins with the diving. With prolific fish
life, a dramatic seascape and scores of pris-
tine reefs (except for a few stretches that
were destroyed by the 2007 earthquake), it’s
heaven on earth for a diver. The Western
Province also has much to offer above the
surface: from WWII relics to skull shrines,
and challenging hikes to village visits. Then
there’s simply the visual appeal, with scenery
reminiscent of an Indiana Jones or Tarzan
flick: tall volcanic islands, croc-infested
mangroves, expansive lagoons, white-sand
bars, inky-blue seas, tropical islets and soar-
ing mountains that pierce the sky. It’s not
just a movie here, it’s real life.
Gizo, Munda and Marovo Lagoon are the
three unmissable destinations in ‘The West’.
Thanks to reliable inter-island boat and
plane services, they can easily be combined
and toured at a comfortable, leisurely pace.
WEST NEW GEORGIA
In the seduction stakes, the island of New
Georgia and its western neighbours, including
Vonavona, Kohinggo, Rendova and Tetepare,
seem to have always played second fiddle to
 ὄ
ὄὄ ὄ ὄ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
264 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • W e s t N e w G e o r g i a

WESTERN PROVINCE 0
0
lonelyplanet.com

60 km
40 miles
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) offers a wide range of excur-

sions into Roviana and Vonavona Lagoons
W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • W e s t N e w G e o r g i a 265

an ‘industrial’ feel to it, being home to the

large government-owned Soltai fish can-

ὄ
To Shortland Islands
(see inset) Santa (including Skull Island), to Holupuru Falls, nery and it’s the fastest-growing town in
Isabel I and various WWII sites (especially the relics the Solomons. There’s no reason to stop in
N e w
G e o at Enoghae, Baeroko Bay, Kohinggo and Vila Noro, unless you want to see the fish can-
r g ISABEL
Vella Lavella I
i a PROVINCE Point). Prices start at S$450 for two people nery. Noro Lodge (% 62138; Noro; d S$130-200)
S o
Vonunu
Sosolo NEW GEORGIA IS u n
d
(half a day). caters mainly to fishery workers and has a
Vella
Mt Kolambangara
( T licensed restaurant.

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Gulf h
Sielezavanga Kolambangara I
Kula Mt Mase
e SLEEPING & EATING In Baeroko Bay you’ll see the Casi Maru, a
ait Ramata I
o Str Iriri Gulf (843m) S
l Agnes Lodge (%62133; www.agneslodge.com.sb; s A$16- sunken Japanese freighter near the shore. Its
Giz Ghizo I Ringgi o
Gizo Kohinggo I
New Georgia I
Ramata
t ) 22, d A$38-132, ste A$155-190; a) New Zealander rusty masts protrude from the water. It was
Ranongga I Mbabanga I Noro Munda
Airport
Airfield
and owner Don Croft ensures everything runs bombed as its crane was loading cargo on
Marovo Lagoon
Vonavona I Viru
Harbour
smoothly at this long-established venture right to an adjacent barge. Enoghae, at the jutting
Simbo I Vonavona Munda
on the waterfront (no beach). You’ll meet an northern lip of the bay, has several large
B
Lagoon Arara
la
Lola Seghe Vangunu I Japanese WWII anti-aircraft guns still hidden in

ὄὄὄ
Roviana
interesting mix of people staying here, such
n
Island Lagoon h To Central Province
c

e Gatokae
PAPUA NEW B Rendova I
C
ha
Seghe
Airfield Mt Vangunu
Airfield as RAMSI personnel divers and Taiwanese the scrub.
ou

GUINEA nn (1123m) businessmen. There is a variety of rooms for

ga

el Nggatokae
Bougainville
Roviana Lagoon
in

I all budgets, from fan-cooled, two-bed rooms

vi

See Marovo Lagoon

lle

Fauro I
Tetepare I Map (p267)
to self-contained units. The restaurant serves Extending 52km eastwards from Munda to
Mborokua I
St rai

up excellent food, including a sensational Kalena Bay, Roviana Lagoon has many small
Roviana lobster (S$110), and the convivial idyllic islets formed from coral shoals. The
t

SHORTLAND
Korovou
IS Kavachi Submarine
Volcano
bar is the most happening place in town. It’s best way to appreciate its visual splendour is
Shortland I a short walk from the airstrip. Credit cards to join a lagoon tour. Contact Go West Tours
SOLOMON ISLANDS

SOLOMON ISLANDS
are accepted. (opposite) in Munda or Zipolo Habu Resort
Mono I
(below) on Lola island. Due south of Roviana
SOLOMON SEA
TREASURY GETTING THERE & AWAY Lagoon, Rendova is home to about 3000 peo-
IS
Stirling I Same scale as main map The minuscule airport terminal has a Solomon ple. Climbing Rendova Peak (1063m) takes a
Airlines (%61152) counter. Solomon Airlines two-day return trip.
connects Munda with Honiara (from S$750, Four kilometres east of Munda, Nusa Roviana
the better-hyped Ghizo Island area or Marovo SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES daily), Gizo (from S$395, daily) and Seghe is of strong historical significance. Notorious
Lagoon. But we say: no longer! West New There’s not much to see in Munda (and no (from S$395, daily). Flights go twice-weekly headhunter Ingava ruled from a coral-walled
Georgia has its fair share of idyllic spots, as real beaches), but it’s worth taking a 20- to Ramata (from S$395). fortress built on the island until it was de-
well as attractive accommodation options and minute walk from Agnes Lodge (opposite) Go West Tours (%62180), based at Agnes stroyed in 1892. His tribe had a dog, Tiola, as
a hatful of historical sights. And divers take to Kia, where you’ll find the US Dump (S$20), Lodge, has a shuttle service to Gizo (S$140, its totem. Remains of the Stone Dog and 500m
note: the coral reefs are flabbergasting, with which features a pile of WWII material rust- two hours, three weekly) stopping at Noro of coral walls are still visible.
the added thrill of regular shark action. ing in the bush. On the main road above and Ringgi on Kolombangara en route. It
the US Dump, Bolton Lizu operates a small departs Munda at 7.30am. The MV Pelican Vonavona Lagoon
Munda museum of WWII relics. Express (%28104) doesn’t pull into Munda on Wow! This lovely lagoon extends for 28km be-
New Georgia’s largest settlement, the lit- Munda is a destination of choice for de- its Sunday HoniaraGizo route, but does stop tween the tiny islets of Blackett Strait and the
tle town of Munda, on New Georgia itself, manding divers, who have the pick of lots at nearby Ughele (from Honiara S$320) on long, sandy island of Nusaghele. Within this
makes a convenient, if not glamorous, base of superlative dives (see p61). Diving is run Rendova and at Noro (from Honiara S$340), area are many islets, ringed by coral-encrusted
for exploring the area’s many attractions. by the very professional Dive Munda (%62156; from where you can easily find transport shallows interspersed with deeper seas.
It has the airport terminal, government of- www.mundadive.com), based at Agnes Lodge. Two to Munda. The MV Solomon Express (%28064 You’ve probably seen the image of Skull
fices, a police station and a well-equipped morning boat dives will set you back A$150 in Honiara) does the same route on Friday Island on enough websites and leaflets. It’s time
hospital. The post office (h8am-noon & 1-3.30pm with tank and weights, or A$180 with all (same fares). to check out the real thing, on a tiny islet at
Mon-Fri) is in the centre, as is the Bank South equipment. An open-water course costs the tip of Kundu Point on Vonavona Lagoon.
Pacific (%62177; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri), where about A$630. At most dive sites, snorkelling Around New Georgia A truly spooky sight, it’s the final resting
you can change cash and travellers cheques. (A$45) is possible, offering good visibility and Fancy a dip? Head to the 10m Holupuru Falls, place for the skulls of countless vanquished
The ANZ branch, inside the post office, plenty to see. just north of the bridge over the Mburape warriors, as well as a shrine for the skulls of
can do cash advances on your credit card River, east of Munda. If you’ve got itchy feet, Rendovan chiefs. The skull house is a small,
(Visa and MasterCard), and an ATM ought TOURS you can hike up Mt Bau, about 9km inland. triangular-shaped casket which also contains
to have been installed just outside the post The easiest way to get a broad look at the You’ll need a guide to show you the way (ask the chiefs’ clam-shell-ring valuables.
office by the time you read this. Check delights around West New Georgia is to take at Agnes Lodge, above). On Lola island, about 20 minutes by boat
your emails at Telekom (per hr S$48; h8am-noon a half- or one-day tour. Based at Agnes Lodge Here’s a surprise: Noro, 16km northwest from Munda, Zipolo Habu Resort (%62178; www
& 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri). (opposite), Go West Tours (%62180; h7am-5pm of Munda up the Diamond Narrows, has .zipolohabu.com.sb; s without bathroom A$70, d without bath-
 266 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n 267

room A$100-140, deluxe A$180) satiates the white- of beautiful small islands, most of which are 0 12 km
sand beach, coconut-palm, azure-lagoon covered by coconut palms and rainforest and
MAROVO LAGOON 0 7 miles

To Mavo Tatama I
fantasy and corners the market in castaway surrounded by coral. Lodge (40km) A B C D
Avavasa I
chic, with six spacious, fan-cooled bungalows. The main gateway to Marovo Lagoon, Ne
The recently finished deluxe unit boasts pri- Seghe, is strung along the Njai Passage, Uepi I w
Ge
Inavo I
vate bathrooms and unobstructed views over which links Noro Lagoon to Marovo Lagoon. 1
Charopoana I o r
g i
9
the lagoon. The restaurant (meals per day Most of the islands’ villages are dotted along 2 Karikana I a
Lumalihe I
A$60) gets rave reviews, and the beer is always the coast. S
o
u

ὄ
cold. This place offers village tours, lagoon Despite its sexy proportions, Marovo is Marovo Lagoon
Sambulo I n
d
Matiu I
excursions, hiking, sportfishing and surf char- far from being the gin-stained Edenic para- New Georgia I MINDEMINDE (
T
IS
ters. Divers can be picked up at the resort by dise that’s often touted on posters or web- Sasaghana
Marovo Chea Telina Village
Telina Island
h
I

e
Dive Munda. Credit cards are accepted. sites. A few notable things may leave you Chumbikopi
Cheke
On Kohinggo island, there is a wrecked US disillusioned. First, the island shorelines Chemoho

S
3 Porepore I
Michi I

l
o
Laghemba Nggasini
Sherman tank at Tahitu, on the northern are heavily wooded – it’s more mangrove- Mt Reku Falls

t
)
(520m) 5

ὄὄ
ὄ
shore. It was lost in action in September fringed coastal swamps than sweeping 2
Nazareth
Patutiva
Mbatuna Mbatuna
1943 when US marines overran a Japanese stretches of sand. Then there are the strains 7 Seghe Airfield

strongpoint. on the environment. Years of intense logging Noho

Seghe
Airfield Kuba I
Njapuana I
Njai
on New Georgia Island and Vangunu have Lagoon
Passage Vangunu I Varusu I
Tetepare Island left their scars literally. The side effects? Nono Manambusu
Pt
KARUNJOU IS
Tetepare is a dream come true for ecotourists. Run-off both discolours the lagoon water Lagoon Ng
gev
ala
No logging companies. No human pressures after rains, which changes from aqua blue Sanihulumu I

ὄὄ
ὄ
Mt Vangunu Riv
on the environment. No electricity. Just leath- to brownish, and chokes up the reefs. The 4 (1123m)
er
Tambapaeva I Mbili
erback and green turtles, dugongs, hornbills, contentious logging issue discouraged the Tachoava I 8
SOLOMON ISLANDS

pygmy parrots and other rare wildlife. This
large rainforest island is one of the Solomons’
conservation jewels.
The best thing is that travellers can enjoy
this slice of untouched paradise. The Tetepare
Descendants’ Association (%62163 in Munda; www
.tetepare.org; s incl 3 meals S$250), which manages the
island, welcomes visitors in its simple yet gen-
uinely eco-friendly three-room leafhouse (no
air-con, shared facilities). This place plans to
build another two bungalows. A host of activi-
ties are available (from S$50). Why not assist
rangers in tagging marine turtles, measuring
coconut crabs or counting birds? Or enjoy a
rainforest walk with a knowledgeable guide?
Or snorkel around pristine reefs in a protected
area? Or learn about customary plant usages?
Or simply chill out on a secluded beach? Food
is delicious too. No alcohol is available, but it’s
BYO. One downside: one-way transfers cost
a steep S$1000 per boatload from Munda or
Seghe and last two hours.
MAROVO LAGOON
Here’s the province’s trophy piece. The ge-
ography says it all: on New Georgia’s eastern
side, Marovo Lagoon is the world’s finest
double barrier–enclosed lagoon, bordered by
the mysterious, volcanic New Georgia and
Vangunu Islands on one side and a double line
of long barrier islands on the other. It’s rife
with dramatic scenery, including hundreds
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Matikuri I
proponents of listing Marovo Lagoon as a 3
Mbopo Minjanga I
Mbunikalo
World Heritage site. Nineveh Tenggomo I
Chalu I Gatokae
Mbale Hotoanivena I
Information Airfield
Sombiro
There are no phones. Bookings for the Mt Mariu
6
Kingguru I
resorts and lodges can be made through Penjuku
(887m) Anchorage
Mbulo I
Kavolavata
SIVB in Honiara (p249), through Solomon 10
S O L O M O N S E A Nggatokae I
Airlines (p257) or the main tour operators Peava 1
Male To Kicha
Island
in Honiara (p253). The most upmarket Male I
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mbiche
resorts have satellite phones and email ac- 4 Solomon Dive Adventures........... 1 D4 Rogosakena Lodge.......................5 C2
cess. There’s no bank; bring a stash of cash. SLEEPING
Ropiko Lodge..............................6
Seghe Rest House........................7
D3
A2
Wilderness Lodge and Uepi Island Resort Charapoana Lodge.......................2 B1 Tibara Lodge............................... 8 D3
accept credit cards. Kajoro Sunset Lodge....................3 C2
Matikuri Lodge............................4 A3
Uepi Island Resort.........................9
Wilderness Lodge...................... 10
B1
D4
Sights & Activities
Here is where you can visit villages where across a gem of a beach, shoot us an email. in Peava (South Marovo Lagoon). It pays
nothing happens in a hurry, be in awe of Take note that Marovo Lagoon is strongly off to dive with each dive shop to maxim-
tambu (sacred) sites, clear your conscience at Seventh Day Adventist, so you can’t do much ise your diving experience during your stay
a Sunday church service, picnic on a deserted on Saturday. in Marovo:
island, take a lagoon tour or a fishing trip, Solomon Dive Adventures (satellite %8816 315
play sardines on the strand, hear the myths DIVING & SNORKELLING 63887; www.solomondiveadventures.com; Peava) Opened
and legends of the islanders, meet master Oh to have a few more hours in the day to in 2007, this newish operation run by ebullient Lisa
carvers or read a book in a hammock – squeeze in more dives! Marovo Lagoon pro- Roquette is conveniently based in Peava, a 10-minute
it’s a tough life at Marovo, isn’t it? For the vides superb dives for both experts and nov- walk from Wilderness Lodge (p269). She runs dive trips
actively inclined, there are a few fantastic ices. Channels, caves, drop-offs, coral gardens, to Mbulo, Kicha and Male Male Islands. Fun dives cost
options too. Tours and activities can be ar- bommies and clouds of technicolour fish (and from US$40 to US$55, and gear rental is an extra US$55
ranged through the resorts. yes, sharks are part of the package) – what per day.
A word about beaches: Marovo is not a more could a diver hope for? See the diving Uepi Island Resort (www.uepi.com; Uepi island) One of
beach holiday destination. Truly idyllic chapter (p62) for more information. the best dive centres in the Solomons. Grant and Jill offer
stretches of sand are as scarce as needles in Marovo Lagoon has two state-of-the-art stunning dives (from A$60) throughout North Marovo La-
a haystack. Expect dense, green foliage kiss- dive centres. One is based at Uepi Point goon. Caters mainly to the resort’s guests but non-guests
ing the ocean instead. Should you come (North Marovo Lagoon), the other is located are welcome, space permitting.
 268 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n
The live-aboard dive vessels MV Bilikiki (see
p263) and the MV Spirit of Solomons usually
include the South Marovo Lagoon into their
nine- and 12-day cruises.
With hundreds of lovely sites scattered
throughout the lagoon, snorkelling is equally
impressive. Lodges can organise lagoon tours
and snorkelling trips, which cost anything
from S$20 to S$100 per person depend-
ing on distance and duration. Bring your
own gear.
KAYAKING
Diving is king in Marovo, but kayaking can
be very rewarding too. Uepi Island Resort
(opposite) can arrange multiday kayaking
trips, overnighting in lodges along the way –
an excellent way to discover the lagoon at a
leisurely pace.
SPORTFISHING
Mavo Lodge (right) specialises in fishing trips.
Go Tours Travel (%07-5527 9855 in Australia; www.go
SOLOMON ISLANDS
tours.com.au), based in Queensland, Australia,
offers fishing packages to Mavo Lodge.
WALKING
If you’ve got itchy feet, it’s easy to indulge
in a bushwalking bonanza. There are vari-
ous half-, one- or two-day walks through
gardens, rainforest and friendly villages.
Most lodges will be happy to provide a guide
and help you organise your walk. Suggested
walks include the two-day trek to Mt Mariu
(887m) on Nggatokae, the two-hour walk
to the hill that lords over Chea Village on
Marovo island and the half-day walk to Mt
Reku (520m) on Vangunu. Don’t forget
your camera – the views over the lagoon
are heavenly.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a fairly good network of eco-lodges
in the lagoon. These low-key establish-
ments (‘lodge’ is a loose term) are built in
the traditional style using local materials
and are great places to experience an au-
thentic cultural experience. There are few
frills (read: foam mattresses, a rudimentary
ablution block at the back of the property,
cold showers) but a few tourist comforts
are considered (such as a sit-down toilet
if you’re lucky and mozzie nets). Kerosene
lamps are used for lighting. Meals are simple
but wholesome.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
If you’re after solid amenities, opt for Uepi
Island Resort (opposite) or Wilderness Lodge
(opposite).
All places have a seafront location, but few
have a beachfront location – we can’t stress
it enough.
MATIKURI
Matikuri Lodge (s/d S$60/120, per bungalow S$125) This
charming little place at the western arc of
Marovo Lagoon grows on you quickly, with
three island-style, well-proportioned bunga-
lows that face the sea. Relaxing on your private
terrace with a fruit juice in hand, you begin to
think you must be a millionaire to be able to
afford such a privileged existence. For budget-
eers, there are four adjoining rooms in the
main house, with walls that don’t quite make
it to the ceiling (not so hot for honeymoon-
ers). The dining area (meals per day S$100)
has a large deck on stilts. Benjamin and his
wife Jilly can arrange guided walks and village
visits on Vangunu as well as trips to Bareho, a
Seventh-Day Adventist carving centre (from
S$50), lagoon tours (S$200 plus fuel) and vis-
its to Seghe’s market on Tuesday. There are
canoes for hire (from S$50). Boat transfers
to Seghe airstrip (20 minutes) are S$50 plus
fuel. Bookings can be made through Solomon
Airlines (p257), or you could try emailing the
following address: seghe@pipolfastaem.gov
.sb, FAO: ‘Benjamin Kaniotoku’.
SEGHE
Seghe Rest House (s/d S$75/150) There’s abso-
lutely no reason to stay here unless you get
stranded in Seghe. Rooms are ultrabasic and
the attached ‘bar’ is the focal point for a boozy
crowd, seemingly any time of the day. It’s just
across the airstrip.
RAMATA
Mavo Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$300) Located at North
Marovo Lagoon, beside the Ramata airstrip,
this well-regarded lodge specialises in fish-
ing trips. Snorkelling excursions and cultural
tours are also available. The three-bedroom
house looks onto the open ocean.
UEPI & CHARAPOANA
Charapoana Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$290) Just across
the passage from Uepi island, this rustic place
exudes a Melanesian family atmosphere.
Amiable owner Katrey and his family accom-
modate guests in a large, well-built bungalow
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
with four rooms overlooking a narrow strip
of beach (aim for the room that’s the closest
to the lapping waves). Food is copious and
surprisingly varied. The ‘mangrove toilet’, if
not exactly eco-friendly, is something to be
used to be believed (watch your bum, dar-
ling…). Various activities are on offer (from
S$150), including village visits, bushwalks,
snorkelling and picnic trips. You can dive at
Uepi Island Resort (below) if it’s not full – it’s
a two-minute boat ride away. Return boat
transfers to Seghe airstrip cost S$500.
oUepi Island Resort (www.uepi.com) This
extremely well-run resort is very popular
with Australian divers, who stay here to get
thrilled by the sensational dive sites right on
their doorstep. Snorkellers will also get a buzz
on the house reef that spreads from the end
of the short jetty where the island falls away
30m to a deep tidal channel. The best thing
is that it also appeals to honeymooners and
families. The key to its success: a laid-back,
uncomplicated yet well-organised approach.
A series of spacious bungalows is scattered
amid lovely bush gardens, spider orchids and
coconut palms. They are more functional than
luxurious (no air-con, ordinary furnishings).
Meals are served in a breezy dining room
with superb views. Perks include a bar, a
library-cum-book-swap facility, and a DVD
player in the common area. The resort has
a full dive shop and there’s a good activity
programme, with traditional dance, overnight
kayaking trips, snorkelling excursions and
village tours. Compared with other places in
Marovo, it feels much more Westernised, de-
spite the fact that staff are local (apart from
the Australian owners).
VANGUNU
Avoid Kuba Island Resort (on Kuba Island,
an islet just off Vangunu), which is a meeting
point for loggers in search of ‘entertainment’ –
you get the picture.
Kajoro Sunset Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$200) John
Wein, the ebullient (some might opt for ‘in-
tense’) owner, is a kind of local Che Guevara.
He’ll be more than happy to explain every-
thing you ever wanted to know about the
wrongdoings of local logging companies.
Other favourite, but less contentious, topics
include tribal history and local legends. He’s
also a renowned master carver and has a little
‘showroom’ where beautiful carvings are dis-
played. Digs are in a rustic bungalow with two
W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n 269
simple rooms facing the lagoon (no beach).
Various tours and village visits can be organ-
ised, including a trek up to Mt Reku (520m).
Rogosakena Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$250) Run
by Ralph and his wife, who keep the place
shipshape, this place eases you right into the
peaceful lifestyle of Vangunu. The veranda
overlooking the lagoon was rated as ‘the best
reading balcony in Marovo’ by expat guests –
we agree. Take a snooze in a hammock and
throw your cares to the wind. The two rooms
are simply designed, but welcoming. Ask for
the room that faces the sea. The provided
meals are average. There’s no beach, but
snorkelling trips to nearby islands can easily
be arranged. If you happen to be there on a
Thursday, the owners will take you by boat to
Mbatuna market.
NGGATOKAE
Tibara Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$180) This venue run
by chief Luton is a hit-and-miss affair. Some
travellers rave about the location and the snor-
SOLOMON ISLANDS
kelling potential of the lagoon that girths the
island’s northern tip, but we found the two
bungalows a bit derelict when we stopped
by; probably due to a lack of recent traffic,
which is an acceptable excuse. The wreck of
a USAAF B24D bomber lies crumpled in the
nearby bush.
Ropiko Lodge (ronsypiko@yahoo.com; s incl 3 meals
S$300) The two bungalows here are a bit worn
out, so you’ll get to stay in the main house
overlooking the lagoon, and there is a coconut
grove as the backdrop. A wrecked Japanese
Zero fighter lies at the back of the property.
Good snorkelling on the nearby reef.
o Wilderness Lodge ( % satellite in the
Solomon Islands +61 145 125 948; www.thewilderness
lodge.org; s incl 3 meals A$120) A more friendly
place you’ll be hard-pressed to find. Corey
is Australian, his wife Waelinah is from
Nggatokae, and you’ll get the best of both
worlds. The two rooms are immaculately
maintained, the shared bathrooms are in
top nick, the food is healthy, there’s 24-hour
solar-generated electricity, the house reef is
sensational, there are lovely swimming and
snorkelling spots just offshore and the at-
mosphere is delightfully chilled out. We can’t
think of a better recipe for paradise. Another
strong point is the host of sea- and land-
related excursions available, including div-
ing (there’s a full-service dive centre nearby),
crocodile-spotting, ‘coconut crabbing’, river
 270 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d
tours, village visits and trekking Mt Mariu.
One grumble: with only two bungalows,
it quickly fills up (but two more units are
planned). Terrific value. See you there…
Getting There & Away
AIR
There are two mains gateways to Marovo:
Seghe (for North Marovo Lagoon) and
Nggatokae (for South Marovo Lagoon). A
third gateway is Ramata (for Mavo Lodge,
p268, and North Marovo Lagoon in case of
bad weather at Seghe). Flights connect Seghe
to Honiara (from S$666), Munda (from S$495)
and Gizo (from S$465) six days a week. Take
note that Solomon Airlines is fickle and flir-
tatious with Seghe’s little airstrip, and flights
are regularly rerouted through Ramata, espe-
cially in bad weather. Nggatokae is serviced
from Honiara (from S$617, three weekly) and
Seghe (or Munda, three weekly).
BOAT
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Both MV Pelican Express (%28104) and MV Solomon
Express (%28064 in Honiara) stop at Mbunikalo
(S$240, 20 minutes from Nggatokae), Nggasini
(in central Marovo; S$280) and Seghe (S$300)
on their way to Gizo. The MV Pelikan Express
plies this route on Sunday (return on Monday)
while the MV Solomon Express runs on Friday
(return on Sunday).
GHIZO ISLAND
Mother Nature was profoundly unkind to
Ghizo. The island was close enough to the
epicentre of an underwater earthquake to have
suffered a severe punch from the April 2007
tsunami. The southwest coast was worst hit,
leaving Gilbertese villagers between Titiana
and Saeraghi homeless. Unfortunately this sad
event brought negative media attention to the
area, affecting the local businesses including
those geared towards tourism. However, Ghizo
Island is on the mend. Enough aid workers
have arrived to kick-start an economy catering
to NGOs, and travellers, especially divers, are
trickling in. Sure, rebuilding of homes has been
slow but, all things considered, the destruction
was fairly limited – nothing to be compared to
the 2004 disaster in Asia.
Little Ghizo Island is a dwarf next to its
neighbours, but it has the Solomons’ second-
biggest ‘city’, Gizo (pronounced the same,
spelt differently), the most developed area
outside the capital.
lonelyplanet.com
Gizo
Gizo is the hub around which the Western
Province revolves. The 2007 tsunami did give
Gizo a good licking, but the town fared better
than the rest of the island and benefited from
the presence of international aid organisa-
tions; its status of provincial capital helped.
Sprawled along the waterfront with its steep
hills behind, Gizo is not bereft of appeal, al-
though the architecture is charmless. There is
a smattering of buildings gently rusting away
under the tropical sun. Most places of impor-
tance are on the main street. Apart from the
bustling market on the waterfront, there are
no specific sights. The main reason to come
here is (you guessed it) diving.
INFORMATION
Antech Computer Ltd (Middenway Rd; per hr S$50;
h8.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri, 2-6pm Sun) Quick
connections.
ANZ Bank (%60262; Middenway Rd; h9am-3pm
Mon-Fri) Has an ATM (Visa & MasterCard).
Bank South Pacific (Middenway Rd; h8.30am-3pm
Mon-Fri) Changes cash and travellers cheques.
Hospital (%60224; Middenway Rd)
Immigration Office (h8am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-
Fri) Behind ANZ Bank. Can issue a visitor’s permit if you
proceed from Bougainville (PNG) and the Shortland Islands.
Police (%60966)
Telekom (Middenway Rd; per hr S$48; h8.30am-4pm)
Sells phonecards. Internet access is available too (one
computer only).
SIGHTS
Apart from a few churches and a handful of
mildly interesting memorials, there’s little to
see in Gizo. Go to the market (%Mon-Sat) and
soak up the atmosphere. Villagers from neigh-
bouring islands (and even from the Shortland
Islands) arrive each morning by boat to oc-
cupy their little stands under the shade of
tall trees. The only place that could qualify
as a sight is World Fish Centre (%60022; Nusatupe
island; admission S$20; hby reservation), on Nusatupe
island (Gizo’s airstrip). This clam farm and
research centre run by a New Zealand couple
accepts visitors. There’s a small visitor centre
with information on research programmes.
It’s a good spot if you want to snorkel over
giant clams of up to 1m long in the lagoon.
ACTIVITIES
Gizo has made a name for itself in diving,
diving, diving (and maybe some snorkelling);
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
GIZO
A B
19
1
7
Mid
13
de
nw
ay
Rd
3 SLEEPING
To Titiana (3km);
Pailongge (7km);
15
Saeraghi (14km)
2 Football
3 To Paradise Tim
pala
Lodge (1km)
Rd
it’s a first-rate dive destination in the
Pacific. Sure, it lost some of its appeal
thanks to the 2007 tsunami and its impact
on several high-profile sites, but you won’t
leave disappointed after visiting here. At
the time of writing, there was only one
operational dive centre, Dive Gizo (%60253;
www.divegizo.com; Middenway Rd), at the western
end of town (there’s also a sales office be-
side the Gizo Hotel, p272). A solid profes-
sional outfit, it’s been run by Danny and
Kerrie Kennedy since 1985. They also oper-
ate Dive Munda in Munda (p264). They’ll
meet you at the airport or wharf and drive
you to your digs. You’ll pay A$140 for a
two-tank dive, including picnic (add an
extra A$20 for gear rental). An open-water
certification is A$630. We love their two-
tank dive organisation; you spend your
surface interval picnicking on a secluded
island or having lunch at Fatboys (p272), a
winning formula.
Most dives are less than a 20-minute
boat ride from Gizo and include wrecks
and reef dives. See p63 for more informa-
tion on diving.
W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d 271
0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
C D
To Nusatupe Island (1.5km) Hospital.................................4 C2
Immigration Office.................5 B2
Japanese
Telekom.................................6 B2
Sea Plane SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Dive Gizo...............................7 A1
Dive Gizo.............................(see 1)
Ghizo Harbour Market...................................8 B2
18
St Stephen Cathedral.............9 B2
Japanese
Zero Fighter
Solomon Watersport............(see 1)
Main
17
16 8
20
Wharf Gelvinas Motel.....................10 B2
10
Gizo Hotel...........................11
Nagua Resthouse.................12
C2
C3
6
2 5
11
1 Nello's Villa..........................13 A1
21 Phoebe's Resthouse.............14 C3
Field
4
Rekona Moamoa Lodge.......15 A2
Customs
9
EATING
Daily Bread Kitchen..............16 B2
Gizo Nest Restaurant...........17 B2
Malakepavi Lamasa.................................18 B1
Market(eat).........................(see 8)
Nuzu Nuzu Restaurant.......(see 11)
12 PT 109.................................19 A1
DRINKING
Gizo Hotel (d)....................(see 11)
14 PT 109(d)..........................(see 19)
SOLOMON ISLANDS
ENTERTAINMENT
INFORMATION Bamboo ............................(see 11)
Antech Computer Ltd............1 C2
ANZ Bank..............................2 B2 TRANSPORT
Bank South Pacific..................3 B2 Gizo Hotel Jetty...................20 C2
Dive Gizo...........................(see 11) Solomon Airlines..................21 C2
Another dive shop, Solomon Watersport
(%60646; Middenway Rd), had temporarily closed
down when we visited. It normally oper-
ates from the Gizo Hotel (p272). It’s run by
Hans Mergozzi, who also owns Sanbis Resort
(p272). Travellers should know about the
bitter feud (but not take sides) between the
two outfits.
There’s no shortage of snorkelling spots on
the lagoon, including Kennedy Island, just off
Fatboys. Take the shuttle to Fatboys (S$50),
hire snorkelling gear (S$50) at the resort and
snorkel to your heart’s content.
What’s quite new to the Solomons is surf-
ing, and we’re not complaining. Here, you
can be guaranteed almost virgin waves.
There’s excellent point surfing off Pailongge,
on Ghizo’s southern coast. The October-to-
April swell rises to 2m or more. There’s a great
left-hander nearer Titiana village, with a long
paddle out to the reef’s edge, and a right at
Pailongge. Dive Gizo (left) employs a local
surfer who’s finding new breaks all the time.
Bring your own boards.
If island life is making you a little claustro-
phobic, you can stretch your legs on a walk
 272 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d
around Ghizo Island. Walks of various dura-
tions (anything from one to 10 hours) can
be tackled. Ask at Dive Gizo (p271) for more
details. If you’re a hiking fiend, we’d unhesitat-
ingly recommend the climb up Kolombangara
(see p274).
SLEEPING
In Gizo
Phoebe’s Resthouse (%60161; s S$60) On a hill
overlooking the town, this is the best place
in town to meet crimson-faced British medi-
cal students who work at the hospital as part
of their studies. Phoebe’s is one of their fa-
vourite ports of call, and they seem happy
with the basic (read spartan) two-bed rooms
with shared bathrooms. This place gets bonus
points for its breezy veranda affording effort-
lessly picture-perfect views over the ocean and
the neighbouring islands.
Paradise Lodge (%60024; s without bathroom S$77,
d S$198-275) Call a psychotherapist! This wel-
coming abode obviously suffers from exces-
SOLOMON ISLANDS
sive self-esteem, but offers commanding views
over the sea (with Simbo and Rendova islands
seen on the horizon). It’s perched on a hill in
a quiet area, a 30-minute walk from down-
town Gizo (S$20 by taxi). Bathrooms are in
good shape. The budget rooms downstairs are
cramped and a bit sombre; it’s worth shelling
out for the more expensive rooms upstairs,
as they have private facilities and sea views.
You won’t have to venture outside after dark;
homemade meals can be provided (S$40 to
S$55). Credit cards are accepted.
Nello’s Villa (%60446; r without bathroom S$165-200)
‘Villa’ is a pompous description for a simple
house with ordinary rooms, but it’s a safe
bet for thrifty divers (it’s almost next door
to Dive Gizo, p271). Cheapest rooms have
shared bathrooms. The wood-panelled din-
ing room upstairs wouldn’t be out of place
in Scandinavia.
Rekona Moamoa Lodge (%60368; r S$180-350)
Another budget option, with OK rooms. It
was quite crowded when we visited; the three
houses were occupied by the prison guards
and their families, whose houses were washed
away by the tsunami. It should be back to
normal when you read this. The dearer rooms
have private bathrooms.
Nagua Resthouse (%60012; s without bathroom
S$110, r S$330-440) A short (uphill) walk from
town, this family-run guesthouse features
plain, functional but well-scrubbed rooms
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
(the more expensive ones have good views).
If you get up at night for a glass of water in
the communal kitchen you might well come
across, er, a few critters of varying sizes but
hey, this is the tropics. Overall the whole
place is decently maintained, linen is fresh
and the staff is friendly. Prayers are held every
Wednesday evening in the kitchen; join the
ceremony. Amen.
Gelvinas Motel (%60276; Middenway Rd; s/d S$300/
350; a) An honest-to-goodness outfit lo-
cated right in the centre. It features spacious
and quite comfortable rooms with access to
a small balcony overlooking the main drag.
Noisy? Yes, in the morning.
Gizo Hotel (%60199; www.gizohotel.com; Middenway
Rd; r S$550-715; ais) A classic, well-managed
establishment, this is a perennial favourite for
its central location, salubrious yet unflashy
rooms and professional service. Popular with
expats, aid workers and businesspeople, it
can’t quite shake that just-a-motel feeling,
despite a swimming pool at the rear. Its trump
card is its wide array of facilities (wi-fi, air-
con, gift shop, bar and restaurant). Credit
cards are accepted.
Mbabanga Island
A mere 10-minute boat ride south of Gizo,
this island has a brochure-esque appeal, with
an expansive lagoon and a string of white-
sand beaches.
Sanbis Resort (%66313; relax@sanbisresort.com;
i) A place of easy bliss. The lagoon is
turquoise, the six bungalows are creatively
designed with a mix of blond-wood and dark-
wood materials, the views of the ocean and
Kolombangara will take your breath away,
the beach is attractive, the meals are tasty
and the whole place is genuinely eco-friendly.
So, what’s wrong with this delightful retreat?
Nothing, but the atmosphere is a bit staid
and the owner, Hans Mergozzi, had plans to
sell the property at the time of research, so
things might change anytime soon. Check
while you’re there. Wi-fi.
oFatboys (%60095, 66346 in Gizo; www.fat
boysgizo.com; r S$750-850) Look at the homepage on
the website; there’s no photoshopping tricks –
it’s truly like this. This oh-so-mellow resort
is all about epicurean indulgences: relax in
your tastefully designed bungalow (they blend
tropical hardwoods, traditional leaf and high-
quality furniture), enjoy a sundowner on your
private terrace, snorkel over sensational reefs
lonelyplanet.com
just offshore, snooze in a hammock, treat
yourself to a healthy meal at the wonder-
fully laid-back over-the-water restaurant or
kayak over translucent waters. Proprietor
Grant Griffiths is a good guy who ensures
that there’s a positive ambience. Beach-wise,
it’s a bit less overwhelming – you’ll have to
do with a narrow strip of sand. One thing is
sure: after several days here, your mission to
relax accomplished, you’ll find it difficult to
pack up and leave.
EATING
Daily Bread Kitchen (Middenway Rd; h6am-6pm
Mon-Fri, to noon Sun) Parisian baguettes it won’t
deliver, but the bread is fresh.
Gizo Nest Restaurant (Middenway Rd; mains S$20-65;
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Come here for a
bellyful of chicken or beef dishes with a Chinese
bent, or tuck into acceptable sandwiches that
won’t blow your budget. With its frilly curtains
and naive murals, the décor is laughably naff.
Lamasa (Middenway Rd; mains S$25-35; hlunch Mon-
Fri) Blink and you’ll miss it. That’s how discreet
Lamasa is, with its unobtrusive façade and
inoffensive décor. It’s nothing more than a
few tables but it’s hygienically kept and the
fish ’n’ chips are brilliant value. No alcohol.
Too bad it’s closed on weekends.
PT 109 (Middenway Rd; mains S$40-90; hlunch Mon-
Fri) Named after John F Kennedy’s WWII
patrol boat that sank off Gizo, and situated
in a great waterfront location, this place has
relaxed vibes. A blackboard displays a few
simple dishes, such as local fish or chicken.
Sometimes it’s open for dinner.
Fatboys (% 66346 Gizo, 60095 Mbabanga island;
mains S$45-120; hlunch & dinner) What a sensa-
tional setting! The dining room is on a pier
that hovers over the turquoise waters of
Vonavona Lagoon. Feast on anything from
fish ’n’ chips to crayfish or chicken salad tor-
tilla, that’s if you can take your gaze off the
extraordinary view. There are billiard tables,
DVD screens and a reading library. After
your meal, rent snorkelling gear (S$50) and
swim over sandy shallows that extend onto
Kennedy Island. Fatboys is only accessible
by boat from Gizo; take the daily shuttle at
11am (S$50 one-way). It’s best to reserve,
but not mandatory.
Nuzu Nuzu Restaurant (% 60199; Gizo Hotel,
Middenway Rd; mains S$90-135; hbreakfast, lunch &
dinner) This is the most atmospheric spot to
dine. The breezy open-air dining room is suit-
W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d 273
ably exotic, with wood-carved posts, wooden
tables and wicker seating. Food-wise it’s a bit
more conservative, with well-executed fish
and meat dishes as well as daily specials. The
Friday evening barbecue is popular.
Hmm, sweet bananas… For organic
fruits and vegetables, as well as fresh fish,
nothing can beat the market (hMon-Sat) on
the waterfront.
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
The best drinking dens include the bar at
the Gizo Hotel (opposite) and PT 109 (left).
During the day, nothing can beat a frothy
tropical cocktail at Fatboys.
If you want to relive Saturday Night Fever
island-style, try Bamboo (Middenway Rd; hFri & Sat),
which is part of the Gizo Hotel (opposite),
which also has a karaoke evening on Friday, or
PT 109 (left), which can get wild on weekends
(those naughty medical students…).
SHOPPING
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Dive Gizo (p271) and Gizo Hotel (opposite)
have a rather wide selection of stone- and
woodcarvings.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
The Solomon Airlines (%60173; Middenway Rd;
h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) office is near the police
station. The airfield is on Nusatupe island
(canoe transfer S$20). Daily flights link Gizo
to Honiara (from S$840), via Munda (from
S$395) or Seghe (from S$465) or both. From
Gizo you can also fly to the Shortland Islands
and Choiseul.
Boat
The MV Pelican Express (%28104 in Honiara) and MV
Solomon Express (%28064 in Honiara) are an excellent
alternative to flying. The 12-hour HoniaraGizo
trip costs S$380 (S$420, 1st-class upstairs seat-
ing). MV Pelican Express leaves Honiara’s main
wharf at 7am on Sunday, returning on Monday;
MV Solomon Express leaves Honiara on Friday
and returns on Sunday.
Go West Tours (%62180; Agnes Lodge, Munda p265)
runs a shuttle boat connecting Gizo to Munda
via Noro (S$140, two hours, three weekly).
Around Gizo
The main road out of Gizo skirts the shore
to Saeraghi at the island’s northwestern end.
You’ll cross Titiana and Pailongge, which were
 ὄὄὄὄὄ
274 MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d 275

0 30 km
HIKING IN KOLOMBANGARA
MALAITA PROVINCE 0 20 miles

ὄὄ
ὄ
To Ndai (55 km); To Sikaiana Atoll (212km)
Growing weary of water activities? Consider climbing up to the crater’s rim on Kolombangara (Map Ontong Java Atoll (330km) Maana'oba I
Mbasakana I Haleta
p264). It’s an exhilarating two-day/one-night hike. You depart from Iriri village, on the western Fulifo'oe
Sisolo
side of the island, where you arrange guides and porters (avoid Saturday, as it’s a Seventh- Malu‘u
Kwalo'ai I
Mbita'ama
Day Adventist village) and pay kastom fees. The first section follows a logging road. You then
continue walking up through the thickly wooded forest to a clearing called Professor’s Camp, Sulione
Scotland I
Foula
where you sleep overnight. The next morning, be ready for an early start to reach the top be- Sisifiu Lau Lagoon

ὄὄὄ
Sulofoloa
fore the clouds set in. The scenery is surreal, trees are covered in moss; as one hiker told us, it
feels like you’re entering the set of Lord of the Rings. From the summit, views over Vonavona
Manu Pt Manu
Lagoon and the crater are mesmerising. Take note that it’s a strenuous walk, so you’ll need to
be fit. Dive Gizo (p271) can arrange logistics (about S$1000 per person, including transfers from SOUTH
Gwaunaru'u Airfield Nunulafa
Gizo). Fiu PACIFIC
River Atori Leli I
Auki
OCEAN

ὄ
Riba Cave
Langa Langa Ngongosila I
Kwaibala
severely hit by the 2007 tsunami. Saeraghi has arrange excursions to Simbo, Ranongga and Lagoon Waterfall Uru Harbour
lovely beaches. Kolombangara islands. Laulasi I
Serah's Lagoon Atoifi
Sinalanggu Harbour
Hideaway
Busu I Sinalanggu
Bina
ISLANDS AROUND GHIZO Alite I Malaita I

MALAITA PROVINCE
Mbuma
Olomburi
A perfect cone-shaped volcano that rises

I
to 1770m, Kolombangara looms majestically

n
ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ
Maoa
Welcome to a secretive and fascinating

d
on the horizon, due east of Ghizo Island. Afutara
Manawai Harbour

world. Despite its huge potential, tourism

i
It’s a two-day hike to the top and back (see Airfield
SOLOMON ISLANDS

SOLOMON ISLANDS
Su‘u

s
above). It rises from a 1km-wide coastal plain is yet to take off in this quiet province that Anuta Paina I

p
through flat-topped ridges and increasingly sees only a small stream of adventure travel- Ai'ura I

e
steep escarpments to the rugged crater rim lers. In the main destinations (Auki, Malu’u

n
Kiu
Maasupa
of Mt Veve. Logging has been a major activ- and Langa Langa Lagoon) there’s enough

s
Rohinari

ὄὄὄ ὄὄ
infrastructure to travel safely on your own.

a
ity, with Ringgi being the main settlement, Wairokai
Raroi

b
on the south coast. WWII Japanese relics are Elsewhere it’s virtually uncharted territory. See Guadalcanal Map (pp250–1) l 'A
re
'A
Su‘u
Lagoon
e
scattered around the island. Vila Point was an The population is all Melanesian except Ruavatu Hunasi

re
La
important WWII Japanese base and you can for approximately 2000 Polynesians who

goo
Rua Sura I
S
still see guns in the bush. live on the faraway atolls of Ontong Java Haarumou

n
Aola t Malau I
Maramasike I
At Sepo island, a lovely retreat just 15 min- and Sikaiana. Rere
Nudha I r
a Maka Hugnoli
utes from Gizo, in a beautiful traditional Mbulo
i Apio Mapo Harbour
Guadalcanal GUADALCANAL t
house (entirely rebuilt after the 2007 tsunami), MALAITA ISLAND PROVINCE Rockera
Weihii

is Oravae Cottage (%66621, 66619; naomibaea@gmail
.com; cottage incl 3 meals S$1000).
Definitely worth a visit is Simbo island for
its megapode hatcheries and its volcano that
can easily be climbed. There’s also a sulphur-
covered crater lake.
Mountainous Vella Lavella is dominated by
the dormant volcano Mt Tambisala and it is
noted for its bird life.
Unfortunately the reefs off Ranongga,
which were once ranked among the most
spectacular in the province, were uplifted
during the tsunami in 2007 and lost much
of their appeal.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The islands around Ghizo have no regu-
lar boat services. Your best bet is to find a
shared ride at Gizo market. Expect to pay
from S$40 to S$60. Dive Gizo (p271) can
Easily reached from Guadalcanal, Malaita is
a hauntingly beautiful island with narrow
coastal plains, secluded bays and a rugged
highland interior that rises to 1303m at Mt
Kolovrat. As well as a host of natural fea-
tures, Malaita has an equally fascinating eth-
nic heritage. It’s both an adventure island
and a stronghold of ancient Melanesian tra-
ditions and rich cultures. Malaitans are said
to cling more tenaciously to their customs
than other Solomon Islanders, and their
varied cultural life has fascinated many an-
thropologists; no doubt it will cast its spell
on you too. Some Malaitans from the central
and eastern parts of the island still worship
ancestral spirits. The artificial islands in the
Langa Langa and Lau Lagoons are another
distinctive feature of Malaitan life, and the
tradition of shell-money making is omni-
present in Langa Langa Lagoon.
Cape Hartig
Kaoka Cape Zele'e
Malaitan people have long migrated to enormous natural beauty sound like the
other parts of the Solomons, particularly to things you’re looking for, you’ve come to
Guadalcanal. Even today, in the post-tension the right place.
era, Malaitan people dominate Honiara and
are over-represented in Solomons’ business, GETTING THERE & AWAY
politics and power. It was resentment towards The Solomon Airlines (% 40163; Auki; h 8am-
these successes and incursions that led to the noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat, 2-5pm Sun) has
ethnic tensions of the late 1990s (see p249). flights from Honiara to Auki (S$437, once
Unlike in Guadalcanal and the Western to twice, daily). It also flies to Atoifi (S$500,
Province, which are endowed with lodgings twice weekly).
specifically geared towards foreigners, de- On Friday MV Pelican Express (%28104 in
velopment of tourism is still in its infancy. Honiara, 38165 in Malaita Island) runs from Honiara
There’s not even a dive centre (sniff!). If to Auki (S$160) and returns on Saturday. MV
your idea of a great holiday includes fully- Solomon Express (%28064 in Honiara) runs from
fledged resorts, shops, restaurants and Honiara to Auki (S$160) on Tuesday, and
animation programmes, you may leave dis- onwards to Afio near Malaita’s southern tip
appointed. But if real Melanesian life and (S$220), returning on Wednesday.
 276 MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d 277

GETTING AROUND major currencies and travellers cheques. Kwaibala River (S$20); from there, 25 min-
Auki’s airfield is 10km from town. A ride into There’s also a little post office (h8am-noon & utes’ walk will bring you to the falls. Niagara- ARTIFICIAL ISLANDS
town costs S$10 on the Solomon Airlines bus 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri). Get online at Telekom (per hr S$48; like thundering falls they ain’t; expect modest One of Malaita’s features is the large
that meets every flight. h8.30am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri). cascades with a few pools where you can take number of artificial islands, particularly
From Auki, there’s a daily bus service to a bracing dip. in Langa Langa and Lau Lagoons. Some
Malu’u (S$50) to the north and daily trucks to SIGHTS You’ll need a guide to visit Riba Cave and of these islands date from the 1550s and
Atori across the island (S$40 to S$60). To get Auki is more a place to experience than a suc- Kwaibala Waterfall, which are on private new ones are built each year. Stones and
to Langa Langa Lagoon (for Serah’s Lagoon cession of tourist sights, but there’s actually land and difficult to find. Contact Silas Diutee dead corals from the lagoons are piled on a
Hideaway, p278) from Auki, you can either a smattering of natural sights outside town Malai (%40389), a freelance guide who charges sand bar or reef, then sand is spread around,
take a taxi (S$200), as there’s a gravel road, or that will keep you entertained. One definite S$200 for Riba Cave, S$200 for Kwaibala houses are built and coconut palms are
charter a boat (S$300). For all other places, must-see is the friendly fishing village of Waterfall and S$100 for Osi Lake. Make sure planted. The islands serve a dual purpose:
you’ll have to charter boats to hop between Lilisiana, about 1.5km from the centre. With that kastom fees are included in the prices protection from head-hunters and freedom
coastal villages. If you’re lucky, you’ll find its traditional-style houses raised on stilts over he quotes. He can also arrange cross-island from mosquitoes. The largest islands exceed
shared rides. the shore, it’s photogenic to boot. Lilisiana’s treks and ‘river drifting’ on a tyre down the 1 sq km in size and can be very crowded;
peaceful beach (off Map p276) is a narrow, Fiu River. some are surrounded by a coral wall. Most,
Auki long, golden sand spit beside coral shallows. however, are tiny.
Curled around a wonderfully shaped bay It’s immediately to the north of the village and SLEEPING & EATING
and surrounded by jungle-clad hills, laid- is the closest one to Auki. Beside the beach is Auki Motel (%40014; fax 40059; Loboi Ave; r S$110-440;
back Auki is a delight to approach by sea. Osi Lake (off Map p276). With its murky water, a) There are three good reasons to stay in but the dishes are fresh and copious. The
Otherwise Auki is a nondescript little port it’s not really a place to don your swimming this little number: it has the best facilities poached fish in coconut cream sauce does a
town, with a few low-slung buildings that kit and get wet, but it’s a nature-lover’s para- in town (which is not saying a lot, given the good job of satisfying your hungry tummy.
aren’t going to capture many hearts on their dise, home to colonies of seabirds. You might lack of competition), bathrooms are in good The vaguely barn-like surrounds ooze a
own. Luckily the sea lapping its shores and be asked to pay a kastom fee of S$25. nick and it features a range of rooms to suit ramshackle charm.
SOLOMON ISLANDS

SOLOMON ISLANDS
houses on stilts offer something to please the An hour’s walk east of Auki is Riba Cave (off all budgets. Oh, and it’s central. Downstairs Two new lodging options will be opera-
eyes. Wandering its quiet streets, you wouldn’t Map p276; S$25), but you can make it shorter by rooms are a tad cramped but have private tional by the time you read this book, which
guess it’s the Solomons’ third-largest town; taking a taxi (S$20) then walk the final stretch bathrooms and shared air-con (the air-con will be a small guesthouse beside Rarasu
everything moves slowly except at the lively (about 20 minutes) down to the entrance. unit is in the corridor). Pity about the flimsy Restaurant and a 20-room motel owned by
market and the bustling wharf, at the town’s It’s a haunting cave, with stalagmites, several mattresses in the cheaper, three-bed rooms MP Charles Dausabea, tucked away in the
southern end. large subterranean chambers and an under- upstairs (our backs still ache!), but you’ll sur- hills overlooking the bay. Both places were still
ground river. Caveat: it’s very slippery. Take vive if you pile up two mattresses. The menu building sites when we passed through.
INFORMATION a powerful torch (flashlight) and wear sturdy at the restaurant (mains S$30 to S$45; open
An ANZ (%40160; off Loboi Ave; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) walking shoes. breakfast, lunch and dinner) varies accord- Langa Langa Lagoon
with an ATM (Visa and MasterCard) and a If you need to refresh yourself, nothing ing to what’s available, but usually includes Scene: Langa Langa Lagoon at dusk. Close up:
Bank South Pacific (%40484; off Loboi Ave; h8.30am- can beat Kwaibala Waterfall (off Map p276), fish fillet, chilli squid, chicken drumsticks you’re sipping a glass of bush lime on your
3pm Mon-Fri) are in the town centre and change about 3km from the centre. Take a taxi to the and ice creams. And let’s not forget the private terrace at Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway
hefty breakfasts. No alcohol is allowed on (p278), while a small fleet of traditional ca-
AUKI 0 400 m the premises. noes is gliding past on the calm waters just in
0 0.2 miles
Golden Dragon Motel (%40113, 40166; Loboi Ave; front of your bungalow. Soundtrack: haunt-
To Airfield To Riba Cave
A B C D r without bathroom S$143, r S$210-320; a) This isn’t ingly beautiful chants resonate from nearby
Rd

(10km)

really the place to pop the question to your villages. Paradise.

Rarasu

INFORMATION
Rd

Power
Station
sweetheart, but the bare-bones rooms will This is undisputedly one of Malaita’s high-
la

ANZ.......................................1 C2
ita

Bank South Pacific..................2 B2

Ta

do for a night’s kip. The dearer rooms have lights. Extending from 7km to 32km south of
La

1 Post Office.............................3 C2 Prison

eek

ree

To Kwaibala Waterfall
Telekom................................4 C2 air-con and private bathrooms. It’s upstairs Auki, the lagoon is famous for its artificial
r

nT
e C

Trailhead (1km)
La
tto

above some stores; if no-one’s around ask at islands, particularly Laulasi, Alite and Busu.
ita

u
Co

SLEEPING
af
Sik

k
Loboi

Langa Langa Lagoon is a strong centre for

Lo

Auki Lodge............................5
Auki Motel.............................6
C2
B1
Molou the Auki Store opposite.
6
Auki Lodge (%40079; Batabu Rd; s/d S$336/400; traditional activities, especially shell-money
Ave

Golden Dragon Motel............7 B2 Kelak

wai R Football
Ba
New Guesthouse...................8 C2 d tab Field
2
5
1 4
u
Rd a) This is distinctly unimpressive for the making. It’s also renowned for shipbuild-
price; even ‘Lodge’ sounds pretentious for ing. The only thing that might mar the ex-
Lalitaba Rd

EATING 3 Provincial
Government Kw
Rarasu Restaurant..................9 C2 aib
Ma
Court Offices
House
ala what you get. Think uninspired architec- perience is occasional dynamite fishing in
ve

River
asin
7
the lagoon.
sA

TRANSPORT ture, rooms with very ordinary interiors and

Rd

a Rulu
iscu

Pde
Solomon Airlines..................(see 1)
2 lackadaisical service. One proviso: if you expect Bora Bora-esque
Hib

Fisheries
la

Development
Rarasu Restaurant (%40280; off Maasina Rulu Pde; lagoons, you’ll leave disappointed. Waters
a

8
aib

Centre Auki
Market 9
are more chocolate than bright turquoise,
Kw

Kombito mains S$30-45; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner Sun)

Wharf
To Lilisiana; Beach;
To Auki Island (1km); To Langa Langa
The only independent restaurant in town and you won’t find stunning beaches to sun
Osi Lake (1.6km)
Auki Harbour Langa Langa Lagoon Lagoon (16km) is a good surprise. Choice is very limited, yourself on. No, rather people come here for
 278 MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R E N N E L L & B E L L O N A P R O V I N C E • • R e n n e l l 279

Central & Eastern Malaita Island Geologically they are rocky, uplifted-
GO TO THE KWAIO, YOUNG MAN There’s a road across the mountainous in- coral atolls.
Ready for a culture shock? Consider visiting the traditional ‘bush’ Kwaio, who live in eastern-central terior to the east coast around Atori that is This province is largely untouristy, but
Malaita’s mountainous interior. This area is very seldom visited by Westerners and the 1000 Kwaio washed out in the midyear wet season. The it has a few solid accommodation options.
people who live in the mountains near Atoifi and Sinalanggu have rejected the modern world route begins near Dala, and its most scenic Infrastructure was pretty poor when we vis-
in favour of the traditional life and religion of their ancestors. These Kwaio, as opposed to the spot is at Nunulafa, where it crosses over the ited (there was not even a bank) but moder-
Christian ‘coastal’ Kwaio, believe the ancestral spirits are omnipresent, and they practise magic Auluta Gorge. nity is slowly rearing its head. Mobile phones
and sorcery. Unmarried girls and women go naked and smoke pipes, while married women wear From Atori, you can take a dinghy to Atoifi and an ATM should have made their mark
minute T-pieces. This is not your average ‘cultural experience’; you do have to come prepared to and Sinalanggu, the main centres for Kwaio during the lifetime of this book. Eastern
avoid cultural faux pas with potentially serious consequences. people who have left the bush and have em- Rennell has been a World Heritagelisted
We met Ronnie Butala, a ‘modern Kwaio’ (he worked in New Zealand as an environmentalist braced Christianity. Sinalanggu is the main site since 1998 but, despite the locals’ hopes,
for a few years) who can organise two- to three-day guided trips to meet the bush Kwaio. ‘I only launching pad for visits to the traditional the listing hasn’t brought flocks of travellers
take a limited number of guests to limit our impact on these communities. I suggest you arrive Kwaio people (see opposite). to its famous Lake Te’Nggano.
in Auki, from where we take a truck to Atori. Then we take a boat to Sinalanggu and overnight
there. The next day we hike up in the mountains for about three hours to the first Kwaio village. RENNELL
You’ll feel you’ve stumbled onto an alternative universe. There are strict rules: never laugh; never
snap photographs without consent; always urinate at designated places; women must be entirely
RENNELL & BELLONA Rennell is a Shangri-la for eco-tourists. At 130
sq km, Lake Te’Nggano, in the southeast, is the
naked when entering a Kwaio village and are not accepted if they have their period; toilet paper
is forbidden. Things can turn nasty if you infringe a tambu. Anyway, you can’t turn up alone.
PROVINCE South Pacific’s largest expanse of freshwater
and feels like an untouched paradise. The lake
I employ a team of knowledgeable porters and interpreters. If you’re lucky, you might attend What a change. A mere one-hour flight is the old lagoon floor and the tall cliffs that
from Honiara will transport you to yet an- surround it are the old reef. Its western end

ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
impressive rituals, such as the turning of the dead or the sacrifice of pigs. Everyday we move to
another village, because I don’t want to overburden the Kwaio. If you want to make gifts, bring other world. Life in this region is so differ- has 200-odd coral islets and swamps. Four vil-
lighters, knifes, razor blades or flashlights.’ ent from that in the rest of the Solomons lages lie along the shore, including Te’Nggano,
SOLOMON ISLANDS

SOLOMON ISLANDS
One thing is sure: a visit to the Kwaio is a life-altering experience. ‘I remember Westerners that you could easily feel you’re in another the subprovincial headquarters. It’s famous
crying after this trip; they said it was so overwhelming. They even ended up questioning their country. Both islands are Polynesian out- for its abundant bird and marine life, includ-
values, the meaning of life’, adds Ronnie with a smile. liers, sharing similar languages and cultures. ing tilapia, giant eels and sea snakes.
Wanna question your own way of life? Contact Ronnie Butala (%81745; rbutala@yahoo.com;

ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
Auki) or Destination Solomons Travels & Tours (p253). Ronnie Butala charges S$400 per person RENNELL ISLAND 0
0
20 km
12 miles
(per day), including guides and food. Transfers from Auki cost extra (S$50 for the AukiAtori
truck ride, S$2000 return for the boat ride between Atori and Sinalanggu). Give a minimum of
To Bellona (24km)
two weeks’ notice.
Mangga Utu

ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
the laid-back tempo. And the magical setting. Northern Malaita Island
And the supremely relaxing Serah’s Lagoon The ‘north road’ leaves Auki and follows Senggena Tupuake Rennell Airfield
(Tinggoa Airport)
Kaanggua
Hideaway (%40344, 72344; s incl 3 meals S$100-160). the coast from Sisifiu to Sisolo, providing Tinggoa
Tahanuku SOLOMON SEA
Moreno Guesthouse
This aptly named retreat is run with grace lovely sea views. Long stretches of white- Nuku Ma'anu Nggonggona
Hatangua
and flair by Serah Kei. There’s one bungalow sand beach line the shore. The welcoming Niupilesi
on stilts embellished with a few feminine subprovincial headquarters of Malu’u is an
touches as well as a four-room house. The obvious stop between Auki (four hours over

ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ablution block is tiptop with, joy of joys, 82km of passable road) and Lau Lagoon Matangi
High Cliffs Lavanggu
a proper shower and flush toilets. Sunset? at the ‘head road’ two hours away. You
Abataihe
Quick, get your camera ready and enjoy can spend the night at Malu’u Lodge (s S$100), Mangga One
Kanggava
your own lagoon show from your private which has fan-cooled rooms, a kitchen and Tebaitahe
Kiakoe
Lakeside Lodge
terrace, complete with traditional dug-out shared facilities. Vanggu Pt
Neitasi Lodge

canoes passing by the silhouette of coconut And now, Lau Lagoon. This 35km-long Satan Pt Niupani
Tengano Lodge

ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
Tuhungganggo
palms. The meals are memorable, too; make lagoon contains more than 60 artificial Te‘Nggano Lake
sure you try the ‘mangrove fruit soup’. Your islands. There’s no formal accommodation, Tuangonga
Te'Nggano Octopus Cave
host can also arrange lagoon tours as well but you can arrange your stay in a village; Bay Hutuna Bird I
(Sanginganggito I)
as cultural shows, such as grass-skirt mak- ask the chief.
ing, a demonstration of shell-money mak- For the fit and the adventurous, various Lower Cliffs

ing and leaf sawing (from S$200). There are customised trekking options in northern
also a selection of intricate carvings on sale. Malaita can be arranged through Makario
Call Serah and she will arrange transfers Tagini (%22911, 28089 in Honiara, 75227 in Auki) who
from Auki. works as lawyer in Honiara.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
280 R E N N E L L & B E L L O N A P R O V I N C E • • R e n n e l l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com R E N N E L L & B E L L O N A P R O V I N C E • • B e l l o n a 281

an email address (via an internet connection
PUSHING THE FRONTIERS: THE REST OF THE SOLOMONS at nearby Niupani village). This guesthouse
If, after visiting Malaita, Guadalcanal, Central and Western Provinces, you still feel the urge for more has been upgraded and features a three-room
off-the-beaten-track adventures, and if time is really no object, consider travelling to the other house with shared facilities (flush toilets and
provinces, where travellers are an absolute rarity. You’ll need plenty of DIY spirit to surmount the clean shower). The strong point is the lush
logistical challenges (erratic flights or boats, basic accommodation, no telephones etc). property. Canoe transfers from the head road
(15 minutes) are free.
„ One of the least-visited provinces in the Solomons, Choiseul has two airfields, on Taro island
Kiakoe Lakeside Lodge (Lake Te’Nggano; s incl 3 meals
and in Kagau.
S$290) Located on the northern shore, which
„ Like Choiseul, the Shortland Islands are culturally closer to Bougainville in Papua New is a short boat ride away from the head road,
Guinea, which lies only 9km to the north. There’s one airstrip, on Ballalae, infrequently serv- this ‘lodge’ is the best organised of the lot.
iced by Solomon Airlines from Gizo. Digs are in a house perched on a hillside;
„ An untouched world located only one hour from Honiara is Makira-Ulawa. Kirakira is the it’s a shame that room 1 is the only one with
main gateway. You’ll find basic accommodation in Kirakira, Star Harbour and Santa Ana. a lake view (other rooms are at the back).
There’s sensational surfing off Star Harbour. The island is famous for its Spear Fighting There are clean, flush toilets and a functional
Festival, which is held late May on Santa Catalina island. shower. Two bungalows were being con-
„ Fall off the end of the earth in Temotu Province, which lies at the Solomons’ most easterly
structed when we visited, and they looked
promising. The owner, Lence, is MP for the
point. Lata, the provincial capital, on Santa Cruz island, is the main launching pad for outlying
provincial assembly and a bon viveur. If you
islands, such as Reef Islands, Utupua and Vanikoro. Lata has a few guesthouses, including
want variety in your meals, ask for lobster
Luelta Resort and Fresh Point Resthouse, and the province’s only airfield. One recommended
(excellent), coconut crab (good), cormorant
guesthouse on Pigeon Island (Reef Islands), Ngarando Faraway Lodge (contact Ross Hep-
(barely acceptable) and, for the daring, flying
worth at Tour Solomons in Honiara, p253) is well worth the three-hour boat ride from Lata.
fox (no comment). Canoe transfers can be
SOLOMON ISLANDS
S$400. Rennell airfield is at Tinggoa, to the
west of the island. Moreno Guesthouse (op-
posite) acts as the Solomon Airlines agent.
Getting Around
Getting to Lake Te’Nggano is a bit of a chore.
The 50km of poor road between the Tinggoa
airport and the lake runs through rainforest
and takes at least three hours by 4WD (longer
by truck).
The only ‘regular’ transfer service is or-
ganised by the people from Kiakoe Lakeside
Lodge (left), who meet most flights to collect
cargo, and charge S$100 if it’s a shared ride
and S$500 if it’s charter.
BELLONA
Small yet densely populated Bellona has a lush
interior and is encircled by forest-covered
cliffs rising 30m to 70m. The cliffs are mostly
easy to climb unlike Rennell’s cliffs.
Bellona is pockmarked with caves; many of
them the scene of island fables.

SOLOMON ISLANDS
„ A province that is a castaway’s dream come true is Isabel, especially if you can make it to arranged from the head road (S$80 one-way, You can stay at Suani Resthouse (Tangakitonga; s incl
the Arnarvon Islands, the province’s diamond tiara, off the northwestern tip of Isabel. It’s five minutes). 3 meals S$170). On Bellona’s east coast, Aotaha Cave
a conservation area and one of the world’s largest nesting grounds for the hawksbill turtle. Resort (s incl 3 meals S$210) comes recommended for
There’s phenomenal snorkelling too. There’s one basic guesthouse run by the rangers. Trips Getting There & Away its enchanting setting. It’s set around caves at
to Arnarvon Islands can be arranged through Nature Conservancy (%20940, 28095 in Honiara; From Honiara, Solomon Airlines (p257) flies the cliffbase, and some of the beds are in the
tncdpm@solomon.com.sb; www.nature.org), whose office is across the road from the police head- to Rennell (S$630, twice weekly) via Bellona cave itself! Both places can arrange bicycle hire
quarters. The gateways to Isabel are Buala and Suavanao, both serviced by boats and flights or vice versa. The BellonaRennell sector costs and hiking and snorkelling trips.
from Honiara.

Guesthouses at Lake Te’Nggano can or-
ganise excursions on the lake. Regular stops
include Octopus Cave, a spooky cave on the
north shore, and a visit to Bird island, where
hundreds of cormorants, boobies and frig-
ates nest year-round. It’s a fascinating sight.
Your guide might well climb up a tree to
catch a cormorant or two for your dinner
(not for the squeamish). Lake Te’Nggano is
not really a suitable place to get wet. There’s
no beach, and only Brits could don their
swimming suits and bathe in the milky,
pea-green waters. The only place that’s suit-
able for a dip is Octopus Cave, which has
limpid waters.
Sleeping & Eating
The island has a few simple resthouses which
can be booked through Solomon Islands
Visitors Bureau in Honiara (p249). Don’t ex-
pect airs and graces; it’s a bit rough around the
edges, but it can be fun. Base yourself at Lake
Te’Nggano. The only good reason to stay in
Tinggoa, 50km west of Lake Te’Nggano, is if
you have an early-morning flight departure.
Lake excursions can be arranged through your
guesthouse. Plan on S$400 for two persons,
fuel included.
Nuku Ma’anu (Tinggoa; r without bathroom S$150)
This place is based on Tinggoa’s outskirts.
There are five simple rooms in the main house
and two stand-alone, dinky bungalows. Meals
cost S$110 per day.
Moreno Guesthouse (Tinggoa; r without bathrooms
S$150) This is a clean place with 17 bare
rooms and it’s located near the airstrip.
The meals (S$130 per day) are good.
Neitasi Lodge (Lake Te’Nggano; s incl 3 meals S$160)
Just beside the ‘head road’, at the ‘entrance’ of
the lake. A rustic yet very atmospheric house © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
on stilts, entirely built from natural materials,
directly over the water. Has lots of ramshackle restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
charm – perfect for re-enacting Swiss Family only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Robinson fantasies. everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Tengano Lodge (Lake Te’Nggano; jhkaituu@yahoo.com
.au; s incl 3 meals S$190) There’s no mistake: it has the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB 282 lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 283

DIRECTORY
Directory PRACTICALITIES

Newspapers
PNG has two daily English-language newspapers: the Post Courier (www.postcourier.com
GST), and all prices in this book are inclusive .pg), majority owned by Rupert Murdoch’s News Corp, and National (www.thenational.com
CONTENTS of tax. In PNG, the VAT situation is more am- .pg), owned by Malaysian logging giant Rimbunan Hijau. Both are critical and quite aggressive
biguous for cheaper lodges and guesthouses – where issues such as corruption and waste are concerned, however many people are criti-
Accommodation 282 those that turnover less than K100,000 a year
Activities 285 cal about the National’s coverage of PNG’s controversial logging industry. Both can be read
aren’t required to collect the VAT so they on the web and they’re available in most provincial capitals. The Wantok daily newspaper is
Business Hours 290 won’t add it to your bill. More importantly,
Children 290 written entirely in Tok Pisin; reading it will help familiarise you with the local language. The
if you book and pay for your PNG accommo- weekend Sunday Chronicle, PNG’s only locally-owned newspaper, was launched in 2006.
Climate Charts 290 dation in advance from outside the country it
Customs Regulations 291 is VAT-exempt – a good way to save money In the Solomons, the English-language Solomon Star (www.solomonstarnews.com) is pub-
Dangers & Annoyances 291 on your accommodation costs. lished five days a week in Honiara. It’s delivered around the country on the Solomon Airlines
Discount Cards 293 Booking ahead is also a good idea, especially flights and thus may be a day or two (or more) out of date by the time it’s available in the
Embassies & Consulates 293 for moderately priced hotels and guesthouses provinces. The Solomons also has two twice-weekly newspapers – the National Express and
Festivals & Events 294 and especially at festival times, when every- the new Island Sun which was launched in November 2006. The Solomon Times Online (www
Food 294 thing is packed. Apart from festival weekends .solomontimes.com) was launched in April 2007, and is a web-only news service.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 294 (see p294) and national holidays (see p295),
Holidays 295 tourists make up such a small percentage of Radio
Insurance 295 hotel guests that there is no clearly defined PNG has two government-funded national radio stations: Karai on the AM band and Kalang
Internet Access 295 high or low season. on FM. National commercial stations include NauFM (Now) broadcasting in English and
Legal Matters 295 Don’t expect to save money by bargaining. YumiFM (You-me) broadcasting 24 hours in Tok Pisin. BBC World Service can be heard in Port
Maps 296 You can ask about weekend rates, which can Moresby on 106.7FM. There are numerous local radio stations mostly devoted to local pop
Money 296 offer some savings. In the bigger corporate- music.
Photography 297 style hotels it might be worthwhile flashing In the Solomons, national broadcaster SIBC can be heard on MW (1035kHz) and SW
Post 298 your frequent-flyer card – it can’t hurt. Hotels (5020kHz). The Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) is at 630kHz MW.
Shopping 298 will often give free transfers between the air-
Solo Travellers 299 Short-wave frequencies for Radio Australia include 6080kHz or 7240kHz. For BBC see www
port; especially useful where there’s no public
Telephone & Fax 300 .bbc.co.uk/worldservice/schedules. Shortwave reception is often poor in PNG.
transport. Breakfast is usually included in the
Time 301 room tariff, and when all meals are included, For a full list of stations and frequencies in PNG and the Solomon Islands, see http://radio
Toilets 301 ‘all-inclusive’ or ‘including three meals’ is stationworld.com.
Tourist Information 301 shown in the accommodation listings.
Travellers with Disabilities 301 TV
Visas 302 Camping EmTV is the only local station in PNG. Most of its programming comes from Australia’s Nine
Volunteering 303 Camping is not a traditional part of Network. The Solomons launched its first national TV service in 2006 – One News broadcasts
Women Travellers 304 Melanesian culture. Travellers are welcomed 7am to 8am and 9pm to 10pm in English in Honiara only (for now). In both countries most
Work 305 into whatever dwelling is available, and re- places with ‘cable’ (actually satellite) can pick up CNN and BBC World plus a range of stations
fusing such hospitality in favour of pitching from rural Australia.
ACCOMMODATION a tent can be quite offensive. All land has a
Papua New Guinea offers poor value in terms traditional owner somewhere and you would Electricity
of accommodation. When compared with the need to seek permission to camp – finding the Electricity, when it exists and is flowing, is 240V, AC 50Hz and uses Australasian-style plugs.
cheap-as-chips places of nearby Indonesia landowner could take a while, and chances
and the rest of Southeast Asia, or even with are that when you do they’ll offer you room Weights & Measures
the developed-world prices of neighbouring in a hut anyway. So unless you’re planning
Both PNG and the Solomons use the metric system. On the Sepik River fuel for motor-canoes
Australia, it makes grim reading. The Solomon on doing some seriously off-the-beaten-track
is bought by the gallon and trade boats in some parts fuel up by the gallon too.
Islands, thankfully, is not as bad. trekking, don’t bother bringing a tent.
Overall the quality is reasonable but in
most towns options are limited. Where there Hotels & Resorts Discounts for singles (where they exist) are Top-end places are fewer and prices can get
is enough accommodation to warrant it, we’ve The vast majority of hotels fall into the usually small. You can expect a room with up as high as K1000 for a plush suite. You’ll
divided our reviews into budget, midrange midrange and top-end categories. In the bathroom, cable TV, phone and air-con, and usually have access to a swimming pool, the
and top-end categories (see boxed text, p284). midrange category, prices and quality some will include one or more of fridge, tea- internet or a business centre, and the usual
In both PNG and the Solomons there is a 10% vary greatly, ranging from about K150 to and coffee-making facilities, breakfast and range of pricey bars and restaurants. Service
value added tax (VAT, but sometimes called K400 a night for a twin or double in PNG. free transport. is usually pretty good, as you’d expect.
DIRECTORY 284 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n
A BED FOR THE NIGHT
Prices for a twin or double room fall into
the following categories:
Papua New Guinea
Budget Up to K150.
Midrange K150 to K400.
Top end More than K400.
Solomon Islands
Budget Up to S$200.
Midrange S$200 to S$400.
Top end More than S$400.
There are a few wonderfully indulgent
resorts scattered around. Rather than being
dedicated solely to sand and sun they usually
boast some other attraction: diving, fishing,
trekking and watching wildlife, or a combina-
tion. Some of the better resorts:
Madang Resort Hotel p143.
Tawali Resort (Alotau%641 1167; Tawali%641 0922;
www.tawali.com) In Milne Bay Province; see p114.
Tufi Dive Resort (Port Moresby %323 3462; Tufi %275
3200; www.tufidive.com) In Oro Province; see p108.
Uepi Island Resort In the Solomon Islands; see p267.
Walindi Plantation Resort In West New Britain; see p227.
There are also several resorts operated by
Trans Niugini Tours (www.pngtours.com) includ-
ing Ambua Lodge (p174) in Tari, which is
regularly patronised by David Attenborough.
Rates are usually quoted in Australian or US
dollars and are often more than A$200 per
person, including meals.
Wherever you head, don’t forget to ask
about specials, and corporate and weekend
rates.
Missions, Hostels & Guesthouses
The cheapest accommodation options are usu-
ally the region’s many mission guesthouses,
community-run hostels and private guest-
houses. These can be good value for money.
Mission guesthouses are mainly for church
types, but the lodgings are generally clean,
homely and open to travellers. Quality var-
ies and the cheaper ones have no air-con and
share bathrooms. And you’ll have to put up
with a few rules – drinking and smoking are
discouraged (or banned) and you can expect
to hear grace before meals. But the managers
are usually pretty interesting people and great
lonelyplanet.com
sources of information – best described as
Bible-handlers rather than bashers. The clien-
tele can be interesting too, as it’s often made
up of mission workers, NGOs, aid workers
and students who’ve often been to some pretty
interesting and remote parts of PNG and the
Solomons and have some great stories to tell.
There are also a number of places run by
women’s associations. Men are usually al-
lowed to stay, but some YWCA establish-
ments only take women.
These types of lodgings are found in many
towns and cities, and in rural areas missions
can be the only official accommodation
around. Prices vary, but a bed (or sometimes
a whole room) will usually be between about
K70 and K130 per night with meals provided
in the communal dining room. Among the
missions, the Lutheran guesthouses are
consistently good.
Rental Accommodation
Large numbers of expats come and go from
PNG and the Solomon Islands and there is no
shortage of long-term rental accommodation.
Much of it is attached to midrange and, more
often, top-end hotels, but there are some less
expensive alternatives. The formula is simple
enough: provide large walls, plenty of security
guards and the facilities of a hotel, and peo-
ple will come. Weekly, monthly and yearly
rates are very attractive when compared with
hotel prices. Check www.pngbd.com/forum/f74s
.html on the Papua New Guinea Business
Directory. Alternatively, contact some of the
volunteering organisations in PNG and the
Solomon Island (see p303). Or you could try
the diplomatic representatives of your country
in Port Moresby or Honiara – both cities have
large, gated enclaves of expat workers.
Village Accommodation
One of the great experiences of travelling
in PNG and the Solomons is taking the
BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE
For more accommodation reviews and rec-
ommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
check out the online booking service at
lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true, insider
lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews
are thorough and independent. Best of all,
you can book online.
lonelyplanet.com
opportunity to stay in a village. Village accom-
modation comes in all manner of guises. It
might be a basic haus win (open-air structure)
in the Solomons; a tiny thatched stilt house
in the Trobriand Islands; or one of the simple
village guesthouses on the Huon Gulf coast,
or around Tufi, Milne Bay, the Sepik or New
Ireland. It might not be a village house at all,
but a spare room in a school, space in a police
station, in a church house or just about any
building you see. Just ask.
Village accommodation can be pretty rough
but it’s the cheapest way to see the country, and
in most villages you’ll find a local who’ll put
you up. You must pay, and K40 to K50 is a fair
amount to offer a family providing you a roof
and kai (food). But ask locals before you head
out of town what might be appropriate com-
pensation – a live kakaruk (chicken) might be
the go. But a live kakaruk can be a hassle to lug
around, so maybe a sack of rice, or some bully
beef, salt, tea or sugar might be better. In some
instances a carton of beer is good currency, but
alcohol can be a very sensitive issue in some
communities, so proceed with caution.
In some villages couples might be asked to
sleep in separate buildings to observe local
custom. Most rural villages have a men’s
house and these spaces often function as
domiciles for elderly or widowed men and
young male initiates, as resthouses for male
guests and as places where men practise ‘the
arts’. Men’s houses are tambu (forbidden) to
women – female travellers will be enthusi-
astically ‘adopted’ by the village women and
quickly engaged with the muliebre affairs of
the community. In some villages there’s a haus
kiap – a village house set aside for travellers
to stay in. These were originally erected for
accommodating visiting kiaps (government
patrol officers) and some remain today. You
might be asked to stay in one of these, but
it’s more enjoyable to stay with a family in a
traditional house than sleeping by yourself.
High schools are often quite isolated and
all have boarding quarters, so you could get
lucky and find a spare bed. You might have
to sing for your supper or at the very least do
a lot of talking! Police stations around the
country almost always allow you to stay, for
no charge, if they have a spare room.
ACTIVITIES
Travel to PNG and the Solomons Islands is
all about being outdoors in the elements and
D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 285
DIRECTORY
part of the natural environment. (Let’s face
it, there’s precious little shopping and very
few galleries and museums!) Offshore you
can angle for monster-fish, be the first to surf
remote breaks and enjoy what some say is the
most spectacular diving and snorkelling on the
planet. Onshore, PNG’s trekking is both chal-
lenging and rewarding, the caving is extreme
and the bird-watching attracts hard-core or-
nithologists from all around the globe.
Bird-Watching
PNG and the Solomons are home to thou-
sands of species of flora and fauna and see-
ing some of it, especially the rich bird life, is
becoming easier as local guides learn what
birders want.
Birders report that in a three-week trip
you’ll see about 300 species. A small number
of local guides are well-worth seeking out.
You can plan and execute your trip with these
guys for a fraction of the cost of a tour. Samuel
Kepuknai (p206) is the man in remote Western
Province, while former hunter Daniel Wakra
of Paradise Adventure Tours (p319) knows the
sites around Port Moresby very well. Paul Arut
is the expert at Kumul Lodge (p169) in Enga
Province. Steven Warili from Warili Lodge
(p174) in Tari is a passionate bird-watcher,
lovely fella and reputable guide.
In the Highlands and the Sepik several
lodges, such as Ambua Lodge (p174) at
Tari, have programmes specifically for bird-
watchers. You’ll find similar tours on the
Sepik River, around Madang and at Bensbach
in Western Province.
Most of the main tour operators (see p311
and p319) have bird-watching trips.
Also look at these specialist companies:
Eagle Eye Tours (www.eagle-eye.com) US-based group
with one or two tours per year.
Field Guides (www.fieldguides.com) Texas-based
company that does specialist birding tours of PNG.
Sicklebill Safaris (www.cassowary-house.com.au)
Regional birding expert Phil Gregory’s company.
Some books and websites on birds (you can
find the books at www.abe books.com):
Birds of New Guinea By Bruce M Beehler et al.
www.birdingpal.com Find a local birder for the latest
information.
www.camacdonald.com/birding/papapua
newguineahtm.htm Excellent links to trip reports,
lodges, and other PNG-specific birding sites.
www.papuabirdclub.com Birding in West Papua.
DIRECTORY 286 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s
Boating
Few roads. Lots of rivers. More islands. It’s a
combination that makes boating in one form
or another almost inevitable in PNG and the
Solomons. And many of the forms qualify as
far more of an experience than simply a mode
of transport from one place to the next. The
one ingredient you need for almost every
boat trip is time, not just to reach the jour-
ney’s end, but most often to get the journey
underway! Local dinghies and motor-canoes
seem to take an eternity to get their cargo
loaded up – cartons of beer, margarine, rice
and Kundu crackers – and then, of course, the
boat’s pilot must be found (who’ll be asleep
under a tree somewhere) and his cousin’s
sister who’s catching a ride… Nothing will
test your patience like catching a local boat –
don’t leave home without it! Prices vary
wildly depending on the level of comfort you
require (if comfort is even an option). For a
guide, see p315.
RIVER JOURNEYS
PNG has some of the world’s largest and
most spectacular rivers. The Sepik is often
compared to the Amazon and Congo Rivers,
while the Sepik Basin is an artistic and cul-
tural treasure house. Local people use rivers
(including the Sepik, the Ramu, the Fly and
many rivers that flow into the Gulf of Papua)
as highways. On these rivers, there is often
an assortment of craft, ranging from dugout
canoes to tramp steamers.
For travellers there are a number of pos-
sibilities. If you’re hard core (insane) you
could buy your own canoe from a villager and
spend weeks paddling along the Sepik fending
off natnats (mosquitoes), baking under the
relentless midday sun and getting nowhere
fast. People on the riverbanks would probably
laugh at you, calling you longlong (crazy).
Or you could pay your way travelling from
village to village using PMV boats (unsched-
uled, intervillage, motorised, dugout canoes).
But most people charter a motor-canoe and
guide/driver on the river, or take a tour boat,
including luxury cruise ships (see p315).
SEA JOURNEYS
If you don’t own a cruising yacht (and when
you see PNG’s islands and harbours you’ll
wish you did), there are four alternatives: use
the regular coastal shipping; take a tour; char-
ter a boat; or crew a yacht. For more on these
lonelyplanet.com
options see p315. With time, ingenuity and
luck you can travel anywhere by boat.
With a dense scattering of beautiful islands,
PNG is a great place for sea kayaking. Milne
Bay Magic Tours (p111; www.toursmilnebay-png.com/) in
Alotau has four kayaks that were originally
paddled from Cairns. Trans Niugini Tours (www
.pngtours.com) offers guided sea-kayaking tours
around Madang on the north coast of PNG.
Southern Sea Ventures (www.southernseaventures) of-
fers an amazing 11-day guided sea-kayaking
voyage from Rabaul to Alotau. Apart from
these, it’s BYO everything, and be sure to take
plenty of food and water.
Caving
Caves in the limestone regions of the Southern
Highlands may well be the deepest in the
world, but actually getting into them requires
something approaching a full-scale expedi-
tion. The Mamo Kananda in the Muller Range
(near Lake Kopiago) is reputed to be one of the
longest caves in the world at 54.8km. There are
also caves around Bougainville (Benua Cave
is thought to be the world’s biggest cavern at
4.5 million cubic metres), Pomio (East New
Britain Province) and Manus Province.
While there are no tour operators offering
caving as an activity, caving expeditions from
the UK, USA and France have been exploring
PNG caves in recent years, including one for
the National Geographic Society in January
2006 which explored the remote river caves of
the New Britain’s Nakanai Mountains.
Diving & Snorkelling
PNG and the Solomons offer some of the most
interesting, exciting and challenging under-
water activities on earth. Many divers rate
the region more highly than the Red Sea, the
Caribbean or the Great Barrier Reef.
Those who like diving on wrecks will find
literally dozens of sunken ships – either as a
result of WWII or the maze of spectacular
coral reefs. And the reefs are not only for
divers – excellent visibility and an abundance
of fish make them perfect for snorkellers, too,
who can have much of the fun for a fraction
of the cost.
PNG is the muck-diving capital of the world
and Milne Bay is at its epicentre. Anyone who
can swim can witness the extravagant coral,
fantastic tropical fish and the detritus of his-
tory side by side underneath the Samarai piers
(see p115); a truly unforgettable experience.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 287
DIRECTORY
Other locations worth heading for include owners, you could easily get yourself into
Alotau, Kavieng, Kimbe, Lorengau, Madang, trouble. It’s obviously a lot easier to arrange
Rabaul and Wuvulu Island. In most of these your fishing via a tour company or lodge.
places, dive operators offer courses, equip- Some lodges and specialist fishing charters
ment and tours. worth looking at:
The best time to dive varies depending on Baia Sportfishing Lodge (p227; www.baiasportfishing
the location. As a rough guide, Milne Bay is .com) In Open Bay, West New Britain
best from October to March, when the winds Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (p208; www.pngtours.com
are lightest. Head to Kimbe and Kavieng from /lodge5.html) On the Bensbach River near the border of
April to September, though it’s possible to Indonesian Papua, Western Province
dive these two most of the year. Laelae Charters (p253; www.lalae.com.sb) Moored at
There are several good live-aboard dive Point Cruz Yacht Club in Honiara, Solomon Islands
boats available for charter in PNG and these Lindenhafen Fishing Lodge (www.lindenhafen.com)
allow you to enjoy a range of locations dur- In West New Britain
ing a single trip. Prices vary, but at several Zipolo Habu Resort (p265; www.zipolohabu.com) In
hundred US dollars a day none of them is Vonavona Lagoon, Western Province, Solomon Islands
cheap. The years of diving experience on
board, however, is usually worth it. For a Most major towns have fishing clubs affiliated
listing of live-aboard dive boats, dive resorts with the Game Fishing Association of Papua New
and good diving operators see the Diving Guinea (www.gfa.com.pg). The excellent website
chapter, p55. has lots of information on events and compe-
titions including some major fishing-charter
Fishing companies not listed here.
Fishing, and particularly sportfishing in PNG’s
many river estuaries, is one of the country’s Surfing
major tourist drawcards. There are dozens There’s something very cool about surfing in
of virtually untouched rivers brimming with PNG and the Solomon Islands. The tropical
fish, including species such as barramundi, water is warm and crystal clear, the breaks are
mangrove jack and the legendary Papuan remote and you can be among the first people
black bass. And off the coasts of PNG and to surf them. There’s absolutely no surf-rage,
the Solomons there’s no shortage of big fish no surf-nazis and no stoner-guys bongin’ on
either. Yellowfin tuna, mackerel, sailfish and in the Kombi in the carpark. How cool is that?
blue, black and striped marlin are just some of Gnarly dude, way cool, wicked and fully sick!
monster fish hooked by die-hard anglers that It’s possible to surf year-round in one part
come here from all over the world. of PNG or another, and in the Solomons
You can’t just get in a boat and go. too. The southern coast of the PNG main-
Everything and every piece of PNG is owned land gets swell from June to September
by someone, including streams and reefs, and when Hula Beach (p90), 100km east of Port
unless you have permission from traditional Moresby, gets 1m to 2m waves. Big swells
BUSH BOARDS
For years the local surfers of Vanimo have been making their own surfboards, not from foam
and epoxy resin like the orthodox method, but by hacking them out of giant exposed tree roots
with machetes. The right root of a specific tree has a gentle curve in it to form the nose-end of
the surfboard. It’s shaped, sanded and left to dry out for a week before it’s varnished. It’s not
just that Lido villagers can’t afford commercially made boards, there are no surf shops in PNG.
Over the years visiting surfers had donated a few boards to the surf club, but there were never
enough to go around.
In February 2007 Mark Davis did a report on Lido village’s Sunset Surf Club for the Dateline
current affairs programme on the Australian SBS TV network. SBS started a campaign where
people could donate boards – new and used – to their Sydney offices for the Vanimo surfers.
The response was amazing. Air Niugini flew 40 boards to Vanimo free of charge, and, of course,
there was a follow-up story on SBS.
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hit Guadalcanal’s remote Weathercoast in of the ecologically sound Nusa Island Retreat
the Solomons, but we don’t know anyone (www.nusaislandretreat.com.pg) off Kavieng (see p232) JUNGLE TREKKING TIPS
who’s surfed there. and World Surfaris (www.worldsurfaris.com). Trekking through the jungle tracks of PNG can be a highlight of any visit. But to the uninitiated each
The best waves are during the monsoon In the Solomons, the same October-to-April step can become a new experience in discomfort. The following tips will help limit the pain.
season from late October to April along the monsoon swell brings excellent waves near
Practise climbing before you leave home, as it’s the climbs and ascents that hurt most.
north coast and in the islands. Beach, point- Gizo (p63) at Pailongge, Titiana and Makuti
and plenty of reef-breaks are out there, and Island, as well as several breaks near Zipolo On overnight trips bring two sets of clothing: one for hiking and one for wearing at night. Keep
reaching them is becoming easier. You’ll only Habu Resort on Lola Island (p265). At Maravagi your night clothes in a plastic bag, as everything in your bag will be wet from rain or sweat.
need one good all-round board, and a vest to Resort (p261) on Mangalonga Island in the In dense vegetation wear long pants with your sturdy boots. Otherwise, shorts and a T-shirt
keep the sun off. Nggelas there are several breaks, and there are will do.
In PNG the best places to head are Kavieng said to be waves at Poro on Santa Isabel and
Carry talcum power and/or Lanoline to nip chaffing in the bud; or better, wear no underwear
(p229) and the western end of New Ireland, Tawarogha and Star Harbour at Makira.
at all.
Wewak (p179) on the northern coast of Contact the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau
the PNG mainland and, the pick of the lot, (%22442; www.visitsolomons.com.sb) for more infor- Carry and drink plenty of water. Oral rehydration salts are a must, especially if you sweat a lot.
Vanimo (p185) on the north coast near the mation on surfing in the Solomons. Have your glasses treated with an anti-fog solution before you leave.
border with Indonesian Papua. At Vanimo Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about wildlife and the environment – or take
you will soon become acquainted with the Trekking a guide to do that for you.
laid-back guys of the Sunset Surf Club at PNG is a trekking paradise. The country is
Lido village (see boxed text, p287), who’ll crisscrossed with tracks, many of which have
be happy to show their new wantoks (clans- been used for centuries by the local popula- A number of tour companies offer trekking. you leave home to make sure it has the maps
people) the best breaks. The reef-break off tion, and it is rarely more than a day’s walk Organised treks are not cheap but are worth you want; see also p296.
Ahus Island (p239), north of Manus, is re- between villages. Some of the walks are tough considering if you have limited time. For tour Even with a map, it’s best to employ a
puted to host a 3.6m-high swell and be a life- but, especially on the coast, it’s possible to companies see p311 and p319 . guide. Maps can’t speak local languages,
and-death event. There is accommodation avoid the steep ascents and descents charac- The Kokoda Track (p96) is the most and they don’t know shortcuts. Guides
of varying standards available at or near all teristic of PNG. popular trek in PNG. Mt Wilhelm (p162) (hopefully) do.
these places, and if you find a wave you just In the bush your expenses plummet. Your is climbed reasonably frequently, and some
can’t bear to leave you can always stay in a major costs will be paying for guides, where people then walk from there down to Madang Wildlife-Watching
nearby village. they are necessary, or buying petrol for out- (p163). The Highlands are full of interesting Among PNG’s exotic animal species is the
The reef-breaks tend to be a long paddle boards on rivers. Expect to pay a guide K50 per treks of varying durations. Among the more tree-kangaroo, which is probably the best-
from the shore, but if you have access to a day. You’ll also have to provide or pay for their notable is Lake Kopiago to Oksapmin (p174). known of PNG’s mammal species but can be
boat you can find plenty of waves. These reef- food. The best way to find a reliable guide is to Apart from the Kokoda Track, the Black Cat very difficult to spot in the wild. There are
breaks aren’t for the inexperienced. ask around the local expat population – they Track (p137) and the Bulldog Track (p137) also countless insect and butterfly species.
The Surf Association of Papua New Guinea (%326 will usually be able to put you in touch with will appeal to those with a military or histori- The famous Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing but-
0884 in Port Moresby; www.surfingpapuanewguinea.org.pg) someone who knows someone. All of the tour cal bent…and a wide masochistic streak. terfly, for example, is only around at certain
has a decent website with links to surfing tours. companies can provide guides or at least infor- In the Solomons intrepid types can organ- times of the year. And your chances of seeing
Other websites worth looking at include that mation on where you might procure one. ise some amazing walks on Guadalcanal to exotic stick insects are very slim without a
the Weathercoast, on Malaita around the ar- good guide. For the best places to go wildlife
tificial islands of Lau Lagoon and the Kwaio watching, see p53.
SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR TREKKING region of the eastern coast, and around Vella Most of the main tour operators have
Before embarking on a trek, consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable Lavella or New Georgia Islands in Western wildlife-watching trips.
experience: Province. You will need to take a guide and Also look at these specialist companies:
Pay any fees and possess any permits required by local authorities.
be well prepared. Eagle Eye Tours (www.eagle-eye.com) US-based group
The website of the Solomon Islands Visitors with one or two tours per year.
Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable walking for a sustained period. Bureau (www.visitsolomons.com.sb) has a link to an Eco-Tourism Melanesia (www.em.com.pg)
Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions along your excellent PDF document (written in March
intended route. 2007) called ‘Treks and Adventures in the Windsurfing
Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about wildlife and the environment.
Solomon Islands’. It has comprehensive The lagoons of PNG and the Solomons are
notes on trekking, and some information ideal for windsurfing. There are many shel-
Trek only in regions, and on tracks, within your realm of experience. on surfing. tered harbours and strong winds between
Be aware that weather conditions and terrain vary significantly from one region, or even from June and August. One of the best and most
one track, to another. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any track. These differences MAPS accessible places to head is Hula Beach (p90),
influence the way trekkers dress and the equipment they carry. If you want topographic maps you’re strongly about 100km southeast of Port Moresby,
Ask before you set out about the environmental characteristics that can affect your trek and advised to contact the National Mapping Bureau though don’t head there alone. If you don’t
how local, experienced trekkers deal with these considerations. (NMB; %327 6223; www.lands.gov.pg/Services/National have your own board, ask around the yacht
_Mapping_Bureau; Melanesian Way, Waigani) well before clubs and resorts.
DIRECTORY 290 D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s
BUSINESS HOURS
Opening and closing times can be erratic, but
you can rely on most businesses closing at
noon on Saturday and remaining closed all day
Sunday. In this book, hours will accord with
the following lists unless stated otherwise.
Papua New Guinea
Banks (h8.45am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8.45am-4pm Fri)
Government Offices (h7.45am-12.30pm & 1.45-
4.06pm Mon-Fri)
Post Offices (h8am-4pm Mon-Fri & 8-11.30am Sat)
Private Businesses (h8am-4.30pm or 5pm Mon-Fri,
8am-noon Sat)
Restaurants (hlunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm or
7pm-10pm or whenever the last diner leaves)
Shops (h9am-5pm or 6pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon Sat)
Solomon Islands
Banks (h8.30am or 9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Government Offices (h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Post Offices (h9am-5pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon Sat)
Private Businesses (h9am-4.30pm or 5pm Mon-Fri,
8am-noon Sat)
Restaurants (hlunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm or
7pm-10pm or whenever the last diner leaves)
Shops (h9am-5pm or 6pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon Sat)
CHILDREN
People who bring their pikininis (children)
to PNG or the Solomons are often over-
whelmed by the response of local people,
who will spoil them mercilessly given half a
chance. Child-rearing in Melanesian culture
is a communal village activity and just when
you’re starting to fret about your missing
two-year-old he/she will turn up being car-
ried on the hip of a six-year-old girl. Kids are
quickly adopted by village children – the art
of child’s play transcends all language barri-
ers – and women coo over pale-skinned kids
(and especially those with blonde hair!).
Practicalities
There are few really child-friendly sights –
no theme parks or carousels – but the prac-
ticalities of travelling with children aren’t too
bad. Take a child into PNG or the Solomons
and people are falling over themselves to
help you. Top-end and midrange hotels
should have cots, and most restaurants
have high chairs. You’ll be lucky, however,
to find dedicated nappy-changing facilities
anywhere, and forget about safety seats in
taxis – working safety belts are a novelty.
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As you’d expect in a country where bare areas of northern Australia, the wet is short dead animal. Kundu drums would make fine
breasts are everywhere, breast-feeding in pub- and sharp and followed by long, dry months. souvenirs – they’re light, robust and relatively
lic is no problem. A limited range of nap- Elsewhere, rainfall can vary from a little over compact. Ah, but that’s lizard skin stretched
pies and baby formula is available in larger 2000mm, in Rabaul or Goroka for example, across the drum-head, and that’s a no-no with
towns. There are no daycare centres catering to over 4500mm in Lae. In extreme rainfall Australian quarantine authorities. Bukaware
to travellers, though larger hotels can usually areas, such as West New Britain Province or itself is fine, but small bugs love to hide in
recommend a babysitter. the northern areas of the Gulf and Western the weaving, so spray your basket thoroughly
For more on family travel, read Lonely Provinces, the annual rainfall can average with fly spray and give it a good thump on the
Planet’s Travel with Children. more than 8m a year! ground before you board your flight out of
The island provinces and the Solomons PNG or the Solomons.
CLIMATE CHARTS have a more steady climate, with the ‘dry’ Anything created before 1960, including
The wet and dry seasons in PNG are not season from December to late May having traditional stone tools, certain shell valu-
as black and white as elsewhere in Asia. milder temperatures (about 21°C to 28°C dur- ables and any item incorporating human re-
In practice, for most places the wet just ing the day) and infrequent, light rainfall. mains or bird of paradise plumes, cannot be
means it is more likely to rain, the dry that The heat and humidity rise during the ‘wet’ exported. If you are uncertain of what your
it’s less likely. Temperatures rarely get too monsoon season, from late May to December. purchases are made of, get them checked at
hot but the humidity is always high and can However, other parts of the Solomons are the National Museum in Port Moresby (p75)
be oppressing. affected by their own microclimates, such as or Honiara (p250).
Rainfall is generally heavy but varies Honiara (with the heaviest rainfall occurring If anything you are carrying is deemed to
greatly. In dry, often dusty Port Moresby, the between December and April and fairly sta- be a quarantine risk you’ll have to pay to have
annual rainfall is about 1000mm and, like ble temperatures year-round). Cyclones can it irradiated, a process that can take several
blow between January and April. For more days. This can be done by Australian customs
Average information, see p15. officials, but if you have a same-day onward
HONIARA 55m (180ft) Max/Min
connecting flight you can kiss your artefacts
°C
40
Temp °F
104
in
24
Rainfall mm
600
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS goodbye. Places such as PNG Arts (p81) in
Visitors to both PNG and the Solomons are Port Moresby or the Melanesian Arts Gallery
allowed to import 200 cigarettes (or 50 ci- (p133) in Lae can arrange (for a fee) fumiga-
30 86 16 400
gars or 250g of tobacco), 2L of alcohol and tion and certification, but Australian customs
perfume not exceeding 1L or 1000g, duty- officials won’t take any notice of these docu-
20 68 8 200 free. In addition, visitors to PNG can bring ments and will want to either confiscate or
in new goods to the value of K1000 with- fumigate your goods to their own exacting
10
J F MAM J J A S O N D
32 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0 out paying customs duty. Exceed this K1000 standards – better to save your money! Post
threshold, however, and things get ugly – the is a good alternative. Be sure to choose your
customs duty plus GST will make your shiny, artefacts carefully so that you don’t fall foul of
Average
LAE 8m (25ft) Max/Min new video camera that you bought duty-free the Australian Customs Service and feature in
°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm at Brisbane airport much more expensive a border-security reality-TV programme.
40 104 24 600
than you anticipated. One shifty way to get
around this is to ditch the packaging before DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
30 86 16 400 you board the PNG-bound plane and act as It’s very difficult to get the balance right
if the goods are not new when you disembark about dangers of travelling in PNG and the
20 68 8 200 at Jackson’s Airport. Solomons. If you believed the hype then
Since most people fly into and out of PNG you’d never go and you’d never understand
10
J F MAM J J A S O N D
32 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0 and the Solomons from Australia, the cus- that Melanesians are by nature among the
toms and quarantine restrictions that apply most gentle, hospitable and generous peo-
in Australia are particularly pertinent. Most ple in the world. While urban drift has un-
Average
PORT MORESBY 35m (115ft) Max/Min travellers will want to bring home some sou- doubtedly caused ‘law and order’ issues in
°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm venirs from PNG or the Solomons – a bilum, both PNG and the Solomons, it’s not like
40 104 24 600
Sepik mask or Trobriands carving perhaps. the Wild West where gun-law rules and
Problems can arise when you go through stepping outside is to put your life in danger.
30 86 16 400 to Australian customs with anything con- That’s just the perception perpetuated by a
taining animal parts, such as skin, teeth or lazy Australian media, which provides this
20 68 8 200 feathers. As a rule, polished wood won’t cause region’s information to international media.
much alarm, but anything with bark on it The Australian media doesn’t report on any
10 32 0 0 will need to be treated, or confiscated. The feel-good, warm-and-fuzzy stories from this
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
same goes for feathers or any other bits of part of the world.
DIRECTORY 292 D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • D i s c o u n t C a r d s 293

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DISCOUNT CARDS France (Map p75; %321 5550; 12th fl, Pacific Pl,
DANGER, WILL ROBINSON… Air Niugini offers a 25% discount to students Champion Pde, Town)
For the latest travel warnings and advice you can log onto the following (overly cautious) under 26 who have a valid International Indonesia Consulate (%857 1371; fax 857 1373;
websites: Student Identity Card (ISIC) and university Vanimo); Embassy (Map p77; %325 3544; fax 325 0535;
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade (www.dfat.gov.au/travel) ID. This discount applies to the full fare only, Kiroki St, Waigani)
Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs & International Trade (www.voyage.gc.ca/dest/index and with Air Niugini’s new excursion fares Japan (Map p75; %321 1800; 1st fl, Cuthbertson House,
.asp) it may well be cheaper to use one of those – Cuthbertson St, Town)
German Federal Foreign Office (www.auswaertiges-amt.de/www/de/laender infos/reise_warnung see p306. New Zealand (Map p75; %325 9444; nzhcpom@
_html) The very occasional sight in PNG offers dg.com.pg; Magani Cres, Waigani)
Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mofa.go.jp/anzen) student discounts – Port Moresby’s Botanical Solomon Islands (Map p75; %323 4333; Unit 3, GB
Netherlands Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.minbuza.nl/default.asp?CMS _ITEM=MBZ Gardens is an example. House, Kunai St, Hohola)
458731) UK (Map p75; %325 1677, emergency 683 1627; www
New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade (www.mft.govt.nz/travel) EMBASSIES & CONSULATES .britishhighcommission.gov.uk/papuanewguinea; Kiroki
UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk/travel) St, Waigani)
Papua New Guinea USA (Map p77; %321 1455; ConsularPortMoresby@
USA Department of State/Bureau of Consular Affairs (www.travel.state.gov) A round of belt-tightening a few years
state.gov; Douglas St, Town)
back saw many of PNG’s foreign missions
If you use your common sense, especially those same expats: so how many times have closed. Diplomatic representation abroad
in larger towns, the chance of encountering you been robbed? include the following: Solomon Islands
the notorious raskols (bandits) is small. In It’s pretty simple – in the main areas where SOLOMON ISLANDS EMBASSIES &
all the years we’ve been travelling in PNG travellers are likely to go in the daytime with PAPUA NEW GUINEAN EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
and the Solomons we’ve never been mugged people around you are highly unlikely to CONSULATES Solomon Islands diplomatic representation
or robbed. That said, when things do go encounter any trouble. The mantra is com- Australia Canberra (%02-6273 3322; www.png includes the following:
wrong in PNG and, to a much lesser extent, mon sense. Fortunately, common sense is not canberra.org; 39-41 Forster Cres, Yarralumla); Brisbane Australia High Commission, Canberra (%02-6282 7030;
in the Solomons, it can be pretty frightening. rocket science, but here are some tips: (%07-3221 7915; pngcg@kundubne.org; Level 11, Suite http://solomon.emb.gov.au; JAA Bldg, 19 Napier Close,
Violent crime is not unusual, but the victims Don’t flaunt your wealth – wear unre- 8, 320 Adelaide St, Brisbane, Qld 4001) Deakin, NSW, 2600); Melbourne (%03-8531 1000; fax 03-
are rarely tourists. markable clothes and keep your cam- Belgium (%02-779 0609; kundu.brussels@skynet.be; 8531 1955; 1 Southbank Blvd, Melbourne, Victoria 3006);
So what does this mean for the traveller? era hidden. Carry a bilum rather than a Av de Tervuren 430, 1150 Brussels) Sydney (%02-9361 5866; fax 02-9361 5066; Level 5, 376
Most importantly, don’t be paranoid. We’ve daypack. Fiji (%330 4244; kundufj@connect.com.fj; PO Box 2447, Victoria Rd, Darlinghurst, NSW, 2010)
heard from travellers who’ve had bad experi- Always keep at least K50 ‘raskol money’ Government Bldgs, Suva) EU (%02-732 7085; 106255.2155@compuserve.com; Ave
ences, but the vast majority of feedback (in- in your pocket to appease any would-be Indonesia Jakarta (%021-725 1218; kundujkt@cbn.net Edourd 17, 1040 Brussels, Belgium)
cluding from lone women) is overwhelmingly thief. Hide the rest of your money in a .id; 6th fl, Panin Bank Centre, Jalan Jendral Sudirman 1, Japan (%03-5275 0515; fax 222-5959 5960; 16-15
positive. Of course, what’s dangerous to one money belt or your shoe. Jakarta); Jayapura (%967-531250; kundudjj@jayapura Kirakawa-cho, Z-Chome, Shyoda-ku, Tokyo)
person is everyday to another, and each trav- Speak to people rather than being aloof. .wasantara.net.id; Jalan Serui No 8, Jayapura) USA (%212-599 6192; 800 Second Ave, Suite 8008,
eller will decide for themselves what is safe Be especially careful on the fortnightly Japan (%03-3454 7801; fax 03-3454 7275; Mita Kokusai New York)
and what is not. Those who have travelled Friday pay nights when things can get Bldg, 3rd fl, 313, 4-28 Mita 1-Chome, Minato-Ku, Tokyo)
to developing countries in the past probably pretty wild. Malaysia (%03-4257 5405; fax 03-4257 6203; 11 EMBASSIES & CONSULATES IN THE
won’t be overly concerned. But for inexperi- If you get held up, as in this situation Lingkunga Thant Ampang, Kuala Lumpur) SOLOMON ISLANDS
enced travellers the lack of structure and the anywhere, stay calm. Most robberies are New Zealand (%04-385 2474; pngnz@globenet.nz; All foreign embassies and consulates are in
number of unemployed standing idly around fairly unsophisticated affairs. 279 Willis St, Wellington) Honiara.
the cities can be intimidating. Philippines (%02-811 3465; kundumnl@pdw.net; Australia (%21561; fax 23691; Mud Alley St)
Bear in mind that everything is much Apart from crime, the main annoyance is the Corinthian Plaza, Paseo de Rozas Cnr, Makati) EU (%22765; ecsol@solomon.com.sb; City Centre Bldg,
more relaxed outside Port Moresby, Lae zillions of mosquitoes. Solomon Islands (%20561; fax 20562; PO Box 1109, Mendana Ave)
and Mt Hagen. Tribal fighting is still com- Honiara) France & Germany (%22588; fax 23887; Tradco office,
mon deep in the Highlands, and while this Scams UK (%0207-930 0922; 14 Waterloo Pl, London SW1R 4AR) City Centre Bldg, Mendana Ave)
can make things unpredictable it rarely em- There aren’t many actual scams in PNG or USA (%202-745 3680; www.pngembassy.org; Suite 805, Japan (%22953; fax 21006; NPF Bldg)
broils outsiders. In villages people quickly the Solomons. However, in the few PNG 1779 Massachusetts Ave, NW, Washington DC 20036) New Zealand (%21502/21503; fax 223777; nzhicom@
get to know you and you rapidly lose the cities that have taxis there’s a chance you’ll solomon.com.sb; City Centre Bldg, Mendana Ave)
anonymity that makes a stranger a target. encounter one of the developing world’s EMBASSIES & CONSULATES IN PAPUA Papua New Guinea (%20561; fax 20562; Anthony
Expats will tell you not to ride the buses and favourite cons: ‘Sorry, no change’. If you’re NEW GUINEA Saru Bldg, Ashley St)
PMVs, but that’s just silly. They’ll regale you waving anything more than K10 or K20 All embassies are in Port Moresby. UK (%21705; bhc@solomon.com.sb; Telekom House,
with stories of rape and pillage and plun- around, then it might not be a scam at all. Australia High Commission (Map p77; %325 9333; Mendana Ave)
der (even murder), but these tales are often But if you only need K5 or K7 in change, www.embassy.gov.au/pg.html; Godwit St, Waigani); USA Consular Agent (%23426, mobile 94731; fax
urban legends that can have very tenuous for example, they will almost certainly Honorary Consul (Map p75; %472 2466; Trukai Industries, 27429; jmporras@bjs.com.sb; BJS Agencies Limited,
connections to real events. It’s worth asking have it. Mataram St, Lae) Honiara)
DIRECTORY 294 D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Most shows and festivals are held on week-
ends, so the dates change from year to year,
but usually only by a few days. Many smaller
singsings (celebratory festivals), however, are
local affairs with no fixed yearly schedule, so
you’ll have to depend on word-of-mouth to
find them. And even some of the bigger events
on the yearly social calendar sometimes move
from month to month (just to keep us on our
toes!). Check www.pngtourism.com and www
.visitsolomons.com.sb for more precise dates.
See also Holidays (opposite) for other dates
worth watching out for.
March
Ambunti Crocodile Festival (PNG) Cultural groups from
the Sepik region perform to promote community tourism
and crocodile conservation.
April
National Fishing Titles (PNG) First week of April.
Reelin’ in the big ones off Port Moresby.
Gogodala Canoe Festival (PNG) Late April. Balimo, on
the vast floodplains of the Aramia River in Western Prov-
ince, hosts this annual event with canoe races and feasting.
May
Brisbane-to-Gizo Yacht Race (SI) Early May. This was
cancelled for some years after the ethnic tensions but
resumed in 2006.
Vakatepe Festival of the Sea (SI) Mid-May. Timed to
coincide with the first boats arriving in Brisbane-to-Gizo
yacht race.
Spear-Fighting Festival (SI) New moon in May. A two-
day event on Santa Catalina Island in Makira Province.
Whit Monday (SI) Eighth Monday after Easter – May/
June. Celebrated all over the Solomons with marching,
dancing and singing.
June
Tufi Cultural Show (PNG) Early June. Singsings, feasting
and dancing.
Wahgi Cultural Show (PNG) Early June. The first of the
Highlands shows in the calendar year.
Port Moresby Show (PNG) Mid-June. Traditional and
modern events.
Gulf Mask Festival (PNG) Mid-June. Spectacular display of
traditional masks in Toare Village near Kerema.
July
National Mask Festival (PNG) Mid-July. Masks from all
over the country are displayed in Rabaul.
Malagan Festival (PNG) Mid-July. A rare opportunity to
see striking Malangan art displayed en masse in Kavieng.
lonelyplanet.com
Warwagira Festival (PNG) First two weeks of July.
Dukduks and tumbuans (masked forest spirits) come out of
the sea from canoes at dawn to dance. At night, Baining
fire dancers perform. Takes place in Kokopo or in Rabaul.
August
International Orchid Spectacular (PNG) First week-
end in August. The grounds of Port Moresby’s Parliament
Haus come alive with thousands of orchids.
Mt Hagen Show (PNG) Late August. The first really big
gathering of Highlands clans for the year. A spectacular event.
September
National Garamut & Mambu Festival (PNG) Early
September. Wewak hosts this colourful event of traditional
music and dance.
Bargam Agricultural Show (PNG) First week of Septem-
ber. Harvest celebrations on the coast north of Madang.
Goroka Show (PNG) Mid-September. This is the big
Highlands singsing and well worth adjusting your travel
plans around. A huge gathering of clans in traditional dress
and bilas (finery).
Hiri Moale Festival (PNG) Mid-September. This festival in
Port Moresby celebrates the huge Papuan trading canoes.
Kalam Culture Festival (PNG) Third week of Septem-
ber. The festival at Simbai, a tiny Highlands outpost, is
a traditional event featuring male initiation rites, nose
piercing and bride-price payments.
October
Kundiawa Simbu Show (PNG) Early October. Traditional
singsing and agricultural show.
Morobe Show (PNG) Late October. This, the final big
singsing of the year, goes off in Lae.
November
Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Festival (PNG) First week-
end in November. A spectacular festival with sailing canoes
from the province and beyond racing to Alotau.
FOOD
For information on eating and eateries in
PNG and the Solomons, see p64.
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
It’s quiet noticeable that gay men in recent
years have been more prepared to express
themselves. These days you do see effeminate
Melanesian men and while they may not be
strident or provocative about it, there’s noth-
ing ambiguous about their sexual orientation.
And that’s pretty gutsy – homosexuality is
illegal in both PNG and the Solomons, al-
though the law is rarely, if ever, enforced. Talk
to Melanesian men and their homophobia
lonelyplanet.com
is quite palpable (unlike in Polynesia where
there are strong traditions of trans-genderism
and homosexuality). We’ve not seen any
local women prepared to ‘fly the flag’ in
public, but there must be some around.
Any local ‘gay scene’ that exists is closeted
and underground.
Homosexuality is far from a topical issue in
Melanesian society. This is hardly surprising
given that the churches have been reinforc-
ing the idea that homosexuality is morally
reprehensible for years.
You’ll see many local people hold hands
as they walk down the street – women with
women and men with men. But don’t mis-
understand – this is simply an expression of
friendliness and affection that’s common and
quite natural in Melanesian societies.
HOLIDAYS
In addition to the national holidays listed
here, each province has its own provincial
government day (usually a Friday or Monday)
and there is usually a singsing to mark the
occasion. Like anywhere, accommodation
is harder to find during holiday times, par-
ticularly Christmas and Easter. The following
national holidays apply to both PNG and the
Solomons unless otherwise stated.
New Year’s Day 1 January
Easter March/April, variable dates. Includes Good Friday
and Easter Monday.
National Remembrance Day 23 April (PNG only)
Queen’s Birthday Second Friday of June
Solomon Islands Independence Day 7 July (SI only)
PNG Independence Day 16 September (PNG only)
Christmas Day 25 December
Boxing Day 26 December
INSURANCE
Especially in PNG and the Solomons, where
help is often an expensive helicopter ride
away, a travel insurance policy to cover theft,
loss and medical problems is essential. There
is a wide variety of policies available and travel
agents often know which is most suitable.
Read the small print to check it covers po-
tentially ‘dangerous activities’ such as diving
and trekking.
You might prefer a policy that pays doctors
or hospitals directly rather than you having to
pay on the spot and claim later. If you have
to claim later make sure you keep all docu-
mentation. Some policies ask you to call back
(reverse charges) to a centre in your home
D I R E C T O R Y • • H o l i d a y s 295
DIRECTORY
country where an immediate assessment of
your problem is made.
Check that the policy covers ambulances or
an emergency flight (medivac) home.
INTERNET ACCESS
PNG and the Solomons are two of the least
internet-aware countries around, though the
Solomons is at the forefront of an innova-
tive shortwave internet. Like pretty much all
infrastructure there is no internet outside the
major cities and a few expensive hotels and
resorts. In more and more places if you’re
carrying your own laptop you can get internet
access with an RJ-45 cable (via a LAN con-
nection) in a hotel. Honiara’s main Telekom
office even offers wi-fi by the hour, as do a few
of the better hotels and trendy cafés in Port
Moresby, Honiara and Gizo. But even with
these concessions to the 21st century your
experience of the information super highway
will likely be a frustrating one with mind-
numbingly slow connections and drop-outs.
Broadband is finally being rolled out to some
of the major towns.
Honiara has far more internet café termi-
nals than Port Moresby does, and seems a lit-
tle further advanced in internet ideology. Port
Moresby does not have the viral proliferation
of internet cafés you’d expect for a city of its
size, but slowly more are opening up.
In PNG, the one or two internet cafés in
each major town charge anything between
K15 to K40 per hour. All top-end hotels and
a growing number of midrange places have a
computer you can use to get online.
In the Solomons, internet cafés (often just
a terminal in the local Telekom office) charge
about S$18 to S$30 per hour. The Solomons
has been at the forefront of an innovative
internet technology that digitally interprets
shortwave radio signals. The People First
Network (www.peoplefirst.net.sb) provides text-only
internet connectivity. With a solar-powered
laptop computer and a short-wave radio at-
tached to a modem the most remote parts
of the Solomon Islands – some of the most
isolated communities on the planet – can stay
connected to the whole world.
LEGAL MATTERS
Visitors to PNG have little reason to fear trou-
ble with police. The occasional after-dark road
block shouldn’t be a concern and aside from
that there’s no reason why you’ll be stopped.
DIRECTORY 296 D I R E C T O R Y • • M a p s
COMING OF AGE
For the record:
The legal voting age in PNG and the
Solomons is 18.
You can drive legally at age 18 (to rent
a car you must be 25).
Heterosexual sex is legal at age 16 in
PNG and 15 in the Solomons.
To legally buy alcohol you must be 18.
If by chance you are, you’re unlikely to be
asked for a bribe and shouldn’t offer one, at
least not until you’ve refused several times
and there seems to be no other option. Always
be deferential.
Unfortunately, however, while most po-
lice are courteous enough (even friendly!)
don’t expect them to do much about any
crime perpetrated against you. For years po-
lice have been out-numbered, out-gunned
and out-motivated by gangs of raskols, and
the number of crimes solved is piteously low.
Police frustration is common, and don’t be
surprised to hear of swift justice being ap-
plied when a raskol is caught. If you need the
police to go anywhere you might need to pay
for their fuel.
Travellers could attract unwanted attention
by buying marijuana, which has become much
more prevalent in the last decade. The govern-
ment takes its anti-drug stance very seriously,
and has even managed to convince much of
the public that raskols do their thing because
they have been whipped into a violent frenzy
by smoking too much weed!
MAPS
There are two maps of PNG that should be
available to purchase online, if not necessarily
at your local bookstore. Hema Maps’ Papua
New Guinea (1:2,600,000) 2nd Edition (1992)
is the most common, and is readily available
in PNG as well. More recent is ITMB’s Papua
New Guinea (1:2,000,000). This is probably
the pick of the two.
If you’re planning on trekking, or just want
more detailed maps, you’re advised to contact
the National Mapping Bureau (NMB; %327 6223; www
.lands.gov.pg/Services/National_Mapping_Bureau; Melanesian
Way, Waigani), order the maps you want and then
collect them from the office in Port Moresby
when you arrive. The topographic maps
lonelyplanet.com
range in scale from 1:2000 through 1:50,000,
1:100,000 and 1:250,000. They have the whole
country covered though they’re often out of
stock, out of paper or out of date. Some of
the provincial Lands and Survey departments
also sell these maps but the helpful office in
Port Moresby is your best bet. When reading
old maps be aware that villages in PNG and
the Solomons tend to move around over the
years. If you are planning to walk the Kokoda
Track, the NMB’s Longitudinal Cross Section
of the Kokoda Trail (1995) is very useful. It’s
been reproduced many times and is available
at the Kokoda Track Authority (Map p77; %325 1887;
kokodatrackauthority@global.net.pg, 1st fl, Brian Bell Plaza,
Boroko; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri).
Hema Maps publishes Solomon Islands
(1:1,200,000), and ordinance survey maps
of the Solomons are available at Ministry of
Lands & Housing offices; the Honiara branch
(Map pp252-3; %21511) has most of them.
Finally, the Ex Kiap website (www.exkiap.net/other
/png_maps/index_png_maps.htm) has maps covering
the whole country.
MONEY
Perhaps appropriately for such a diverse
country, travelling in PNG requires a diverse
approach to money. Cash, credit cards and
travellers cheques will all be useful, and it pays
not to put all your eggs in one basket. Credit
cards are increasingly accepted, but you don’t
need to go too far off the track before you’re
fully reliant on cash.
Both the PNG kina and the Solomon
Islands dollar have seen a steady decline in
value against major currencies. But expect
inflation to take prices of goods and services
up to the same rate as the local currency falls.
Since almost everything is imported, the slide
in the local currency just means that things
cost more.
Traditional currencies, such as shell money
and leaf money, are still occasionally used.
You’ll see women in the Trobriand Islands
carrying doba (leaf money), which is dried
banana leaves with patterns incised on them.
See the Quick Reference (inside front
cover) for exchange rates. Oanda (www.oanda
.com/convert/classic), the online currency con-
verter, is useful for calculating up-to-date
exchange rates, but be aware that you won’t
get the Interbank rate with banks in PNG
or the Solomons. You’ll be selling your local
currency for kina or Solomon dollars at the
lonelyplanet.com
‘typical cash rate’ which is some increments
less attractive.
ATMs & Credit Cards
PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Credit cards are accepted in most top-end and
many midrange hotels, and in a few restau-
rants and stores in Port Moresby and other
larger cities. Visa and MasterCard are the
favourites, with Amex, JCB and Diners Club
not so widely accepted. Credit-card payments
often incur an additional charge.
ATMs are fairly common in cities, but
only those at ANZ (www.anz.com/png/importantinfo
/atmlocations.asp) and Westpac (www.westpac.com.au)
branches allow you to withdraw cash against
your Visa or MasterCard. ANZ has many
more ATMs than Westpac, and in our expe-
rience these machines are far more likely to
issue cash. Both ANZ and Westpac machines
are linked to the Cirrus, Maestro and Plus
networks, though it is dangerous to be rely-
ing solely on getting money this way. If the
machines are broken, head inside and you
should be able to get a cash advance against
your credit card over the counter.
Bank South Pacific (BSP) has plenty of
ATMs, but they’re still not linked to interna-
tional networks.
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Major credit cards are accepted in larger ho-
tels and most restaurants and stores that see
tourists. There are ATMs at the ANZ and
Westpac banks in Honiara’s main strip, as
well as Auki, Gizo and Noro. At the time of
writing ANZ ATMs were being installed in
Tulagi, Munda, Kira Kira, Taro and Buala,
with Rennell next off the blocks.
Cash
PAPUA NEW GUINEA
PNG’s currency is the kina (kee-nah), which
is divided into 100 toea (toy-ah). Both are
the names of traditional shell money and this
connection to traditional forms of wealth is
emphasised on the notes, too. The K20 note
features an illustration of that most valuable
of village animals, the pig. Most banknotes
are plastic and look very similar to Australian
banknotes – the colours are even the same.
In remote areas, having enough small bills
is important. People are cash-poor and won’t
have change for K50. You’ll need cash for
small purchases and PMV rides and it won’t
D I R E C T O R Y • • P h o t o g r a p h y 297
DIRECTORY
hurt to give a child a kina for showing you
that WWII relic.
SOLOMON ISLANDS
The local currency is the Solomon Islands’
dollar (S$). As in PNG, be sure to have
plenty of small notes for when you leave the
bigger towns.
International Transfers
The easiest way to transfer money to PNG is
by Western Union. For a list of Bank South
Pacific branches that are Western Union
agents, see www.bsp.com.pg/personal_bank
ing/per_western_union.htm.
Western Union’s one money-exchange
facility in the Solomons is a counter in the
Honiara post office (%24474; Mendana Ave; h8am-
noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-11.30am Sat).
Taxes
There is a 10% value added tax (VAT, and
sometimes called GST) on top of most trans-
actions in both PNG and the Solomons. It’s
worth asking your hotel whether this is in-
cluded in the quoted rate, as quite often it
is not.
Tipping
Tipping is not customary anywhere in PNG or
the Solomons. The listed price is what you’ll
be expected to pay.
Travellers Cheques
You can change travellers cheques in every
major town in PNG, although chances are
it will take ages. It will cost a bit too, with all
the banks (in typical Australian-bank fash-
ion) applying hefty charges for changing your
cheques. For the Solomons, use Visa, Amex
and Thomas Cook.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands
are pretty close to a photographer’s nirvana.
The stunning natural colours and locations
are just the start, and shooting a cultural show
could end up a career highlight. You could
easily burn dozens of rolls of film, or gigabytes
worth of memory. Negative film (about K17
for a roll of 36 in PNG) is widely available
but you’ll need to bring your own slide film.
If you’re shooting digital it’s worth bring-
ing some sort of portable storage device, as
you’ll have a hard time finding an internet café
DIRECTORY 298 D I R E C T O R Y • • P o s t
(or the like) where you can download images
and burn to a CD. Also bring batteries, cables
and, most importantly, a cleaning kit and a
large, sturdy plastic bag big enough to hold
all your gear when it starts pissing down with
rain. Silica gel sachets are handy for soaking
up excess moisture.
Divers should consider giving themselves
a series of uppercuts if they arrive without an
underwater camera, preferably with a light.
Enough said.
Use higher ISO ratings on your digital
still camera (or use faster film – ISO 400 or
greater) if you’ll be anywhere in the jungle,
where it can be pretty dim. Photographing
dark-skinned people also requires some dif-
ferent rules: a flash is almost an imperative,
otherwise the contrast with a light-coloured
background can cause underexposure – black
featureless faces.
You’ll find people are generally happy to
be photographed, even going out of their way
to pose for you, particularly at singsings. But
be careful nonetheless, and ask permission
before shoving a camera in someone’s face,
especially around the markets of the bigger
cities – Port Moresby, Lae and Mt Hagen – as
people can get a little testy about this. It’s
better to buy something at a market and then
ask the vendor to pose for a picture. If you’re
shooting on digital you’ll get a great reaction
when you show people the images you’ve just
taken of them.
Some people, usually men dressed in tradi-
tional style, might request payment if they are
photographed – K10 is a popular price. People
are aware that Western photographers can
make money out of their exotic photos and see
no reason why they shouldn’t get some of the
action. If you’ve gone ahead and taken a photo
without getting permission and establishing
a price, you may well find yourself facing an
angry, heavily armed Highlander demanding
K20 or more in payment. It would take some
nerve to argue.
Never take a photograph of, or even point a
camera in or at, a haus tambaran (or any other
spirit house) without asking permission from
a male elder. For more tips see Lonely Planet’s
Travel Photography.
POST
Papua New Guinea
PNG has an efficient postal service and you
can usually rely on your mail or parcels get-
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ting home, even if it takes quite a while. There
is poste restante in most post offices, though
the larger ones will be more reliable. An in-
ternational aerogram costs K2.60. Letters or
cards up to 50g cost K3.35 to Australia and
the Pacific, K5.35 everywhere else; a 5kg pack-
age costs surface mail/airmail K135/158 to
Australia, ranging up to K200/351 for other
countries. You might’ve been feeling impul-
sive and impetuous when you bought that
20kg skull rack, but you’ll be thinking long
and hard about the cost of posting it home –
K290/313 to Australia, K540/585 to the UK
and USA, and K540/841 to most of the rest
of the world. Allow at least three months for
surface mail to the USA or Europe.
Note that there is no postal delivery in
PNG, so everyone and every business has a
PO Box. Hence when you look in the phone
book all addresses are listed as PO Box some-
thing, rather than a street address. The same
applies in the Solomons.
Solomon Islands
In the Solomons aerograms cost S$3. Letters
under 50g cost S$1.90 to Australia and New
Zealand, S$2.60 to the USA and S$3 to
Europe. The Solomons postal system is reli-
able but slow – a letter takes about two weeks
to reach Australia.
SHOPPING
You’re not coming to PNG or the Solomons
to buy a hi-tech new camera or kit yourself
out in the latest designer outfits (except,
perhaps, for a handsome koteka; see boxed
text, opposite), but there is no shortage of
wonderful artefacts and craft objects to
take home. The best advice to shoppers
is to buy one good piece you really like –
it might even cost several hundred kina –
rather than armfuls of small inferior carvings
and artefacts. Bilums and Highland hats are
easy to get home in your luggage, but lug-
ging more than one or two unwieldy artefacts
around the country is going to be a hassle.
The style of carving and artefacts varies so
widely that general rules are hard to establish
but look for the carver’s deft touches and see
how well the recesses are finished. Look at
the details and feel the weight in the timber –
sometimes inferior timbers are blackened and
passed off as high-quality ebony.
There are good stores in Port Moresby
(p81), Lae (p133) and Wewak (p183), but
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DIRECTORY
BIZARRE SOUVENIRS
You can see it now… ’Gee Bill, that’s a mighty fine skull rack you’ve got there. Which village did
that come from?’ The skull rack, fashionable in homes around the Gulf country as a convenient
and practical way to display the skulls of your ancestors and vanquished enemies, would definitely
be a trendy addition to your interior décor back home. But they’re heavy and hard to find.
Perhaps you’d prefer a cassowary thigh-bone dagger, etched with traditional Sepik tribal mark-
ings? But you know how it is these days with lethal weapons and carry-on luggage. A Solomons’
canoe prow with a traditional nguzunguzu carving? Big and unwieldy and hard to fit in your lug-
gage. A traditional mask with real boar’s teeth and tusks? It would frighten small children.
No, we reckon you shouldn’t leave PNG without a koteka. Koteka are traditional penis gourds
still worn by many Highland men. They’re light, readily available in most traditional artefact shops
and come in all manner of sizes, so if you’re buying one for personal use you can try a few on
before deciding which to buy.
buying direct from the artist is usually cheaper we like to wrest back that element of surprise
and not only gives you a fuzzy feeling, but also and pay the seller the higher price! (What’s a
a good story. few kina? The guy might be able to buy shoes
See Customs Regulations, p291 for infor- for his kids.)
mation about getting PNG and Solomons Elsewhere in society, taxi drivers in PNG
artefacts through Australian customs. are used to haggling to a limited extent
(though not in Honiara in the Solomons,
Bargaining where they’re very honest indeed), and you
There is no tradition of bargaining in could try your luck in hotels, but not in
Melanesian culture so don’t expect to be able village accommodation.
to cut your costs much by haggling. Bargaining
is, however, starting to creep into some aspects SOLO TRAVELLERS
of society, souvenir shopping being one. It’s Travelling alone in PNG and the Solomons
a rather grey area and impossible to give de- is potentially a risky business, but we get
finitive advice, but if you tread sensitively you letters from travellers who describe incred-
should be OK. For example, artists who are ible journeys that they undertake all on
used to dealing with Westerners (eg at Port their own. Parts of PNG and the Solomons
Moresby’s markets) will have experienced bar- are extremely remote – they see literally no
gaining to some degree so will probably not be travellers and can be weeks away from the
too offended if you make a lower bid for their nearest medical help. If you get into trou-
work. But forget about the old ‘offer one third ble in some of these places it could take a
and work up to a half’ maxim, it’s more like long time to raise an alarm. That said, there
they ask K300, you offer K200 and you get the could be no greater adventure for someone
piece for K250. Maybe. Some artists are used well prepared to drop out, go feral for a few
to being asked for a ‘second price’, and might months and discover communities that may
even come at a ‘third price’ if asked. What you never have seen an outsider. Expats will tell
should never do is demean the quality of the you that in cities such as Port Moresby, Lae
work in an effort to reduce the price – this is and Mt Hagen the golden rule is ‘safety in
highly offensive. numbers’, but with some traveller smarts
Having had to recently come to terms with even these places can be safe enough for the
this ‘modern’ idea of bargaining some art- solo traveller.
ists will explain at the outset that an item Outside the cities this sort of travel can be
you’re interested in has two prices – one high especially rewarding for male travellers and
one and one lower one. This is an interesting rambling from village to village is a great way
strategy when negotiating a price and cer- to get around. Assuming you’ve got your head
tainly gives the seller the element of surprise. screwed on and take the usual common sense
Perhaps it means that the high price is what precautions you should be fine.
they’d like to receive and the low price is what Women don’t have it quite so good. For
they’d be prepared to accept. Where we can more information, see p304.
DIRECTORY 300 D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e & Fa x
TELEPHONE & FAX
Papua New Guinea
Telecommunications in PNG can be very un-
reliable and in the more remote parts of the
country a working telephone line is pretty
rare. The complex networks of relay stations
that link many towns and villages are also pre-
carious. In larger centres there’s no guarantee
of getting a line. There are no area codes in
PNG. Dialling out of PNG can be problematic
as the limited number of international lines
fills quickly – the automated voice says ‘please
try again later.’
In 2001 there were moves afoot to privatise
the government-owned PNG Telikom. In July
2004 an agreement was reached with Econet
Wireless, a South African telecommunica-
tions company. In December of that year,
after much vacillation, the PNG government
reneged on the agreement and, after a drawn-
out legal battle, paid Econet Wireless unspeci-
fied millions of kina to go home to South
Africa. The PNG government decided that
PNG Telikom would remain a government-
owned entity after all. Then things got
really kooky in 2005 when the government
issued two licenses for mobile phone carriers
(see below).
FAX
Kwik piksa leta (fax) is still pretty big in PNG,
where email is still in its infancy. You can
send faxes from post offices for a few kina and
they can be a useful way of making accom-
modation bookings. Fax numbers are listed
in telephone directories. The cost of sending
a fax from a post office within PNG is K5 for
one page, K6 for two pages (and so on). To
send a one-page fax to Australia/Pacific/rest of
the world costs K8/9/10 with each additional
page costing a further K2.
MOBILE PHONES
The situation regarding mobile telephony in
PNG is total shemozzle. In 2005 Digicel and
GreenCom were issued licenses as mobile
phone carriers. GreenCom is yet to start op-
erations. Digicel (www.digicelpng.com), however,
moved quickly, launching in early 2007 and
offering cheap handsets and call rates. The
take-up was enormous. For the first time
grassroots people (in the major centres at
least) could afford mobile phones. The cost of
a PNG Telikom B-Mobile (www.pacificmobile.com.pg)
start-up kit was K335 while Digicel introduced
lonelyplanet.com
a K89 start-up kit. B-Mobile started slashing
its prices only to find subscribers complain-
ing in the letters pages of the newspapers that
they’d obviously been ripped off until now.
In July 2007 the government revoked the
operating license it granted to Digicel and
tried to kick it out of the country. At the time
of writing Digicel officially had no operating
license but a huge market share, and the feel-
ing was that if the government moved against
Digicel there would be a massive outcry from
the people, including huge numbers of first-
time mobile-phone users.
In an attempt to unseat Digicel, PNG
Telikom rendered its fixed-line and mobile
networks uncommunicative with the Digicel
mobile network. That is, a Digicel (‘Expect
More, Get More’) handset could not ring a B-
Mobile (‘Feel the Buzz’) handset or a landline
number within PNG. Nor could a B-Mobile
phone dial a Digicel phone. A Digicel hand-
set could only ring other Digicel mobiles or
make overseas calls. As a consequence, when
we were in PNG many people were carrying
two mobile phones – one Digicel handset and
one B-Mobile.
Resolving this ridiculous situation was seen
as one of the most immediate challenges for
the Somare government returned in the July
2007 elections.
There’s mobile-phone coverage in all the
major centres in the PNG provinces with cov-
erage being expanded as we speak.
PHONE CODES
There are so few phones in PNG that there
are no local telephone codes for long-distance
domestic calls. PNG’s international code is
%675. Some other codes:
Dialling outside PNG %05
International directory assistance %0178
PNG directory assistance %013
Reverse charge calls from other phones %016
Reverse charge calls from payphones %0176
Ships at sea %300 4646
To call a HF radio phone %019
For a full list of phone codes, see the front of
the PNG phone book.
PHONECARDS & TELIKAD
Most PNG cities have phonecard public
phones, but people rarely buy a phonecard
that needs to be inserted into a phone. Almost
everyone has a Telikad. The Telikad has a
lonelyplanet.com
12-digit code on the back and comes in de-
nominations of K5, K10, K20 and K50, but
the K5 card is hard to find.
Telikads are widely available and easy
to use. Just dial %123 from any fixed-line
phone, including any type of public phone,
then 1 for English, your 12-digit code and
then your number. Telikads are great for using
in hotels, but only for long-distance calls as
most hotels will still charge you K1 for the call,
even though you’re paying for it.
The phonecard system has all but super-
seded the last of the coin-operated pay phones
around PNG.
SATELLITE PHONES
In PNG and the Solomons there are two
functioning networks: Iridium (www.iridium
.com), which is worldwide and uses a Motorola
phone; and Aces (Asia Cellular Satellite; www.acesinter
national.com) which only covers parts of Asia.
The compatible phone is made by Ericsson.
Aces is a fair bit cheaper, but less reliable.
Solomon Islands
Public phones are reasonably common in
larger centres and phonecards widely available;
Solomon Telekom is the most reliable supplier.
Cards come in denominations of S$10 and are
the same as the PNG ‘punch-in-the-number’
variety; the cheapest way of making an inter-
national call is from a public phone using a
phonecard. Faxes can be sent internationally
via Telekom offices. Your hotel might do it
cheaper. Telekom will also receive faxes, but
they must be collected by the customer.
The Solomons IDD code is %677. To ring
out of the Solomons simply dial %01 + coun-
try code. All international calls are charged at
S$7.50 per minute regardless of where the call
is connected through to.
Solomon Telekom offers its ‘Breeze’ GSM
mobile phone service in Honiara, Gizo and
Auki, with new with poles and relays being
erected all the time.
There are no area codes in the Solomon
Islands. For information on satellite phones,
see above.
TIME
The time throughout PNG is 10 hours ahead
of UTC (GMT). When it’s noon in PNG it
will be noon in Sydney, 9am in Jakarta, 2am in
London, 9pm the previous day in New York
and 6pm the previous day in Los Angeles. There
D I R E C T O R Y • • Ti m e 301
DIRECTORY
is no daylight saving (summer time) in PNG.
See World Time Zones, pp350-1. Time in the
Solomon Islands is 11 hours ahead of UTC.
You will inevitably encounter ‘Melanesian
time’ at some point, the habit throughout
Melanesia (and all the South Pacific) of
putting a low premium on punctuality.
TOILETS
Most toilets are ‘thrones’, though often what
you’re sitting on is far from gold-plated. In
remote villages you might find a long-drop
consisting of a pit with a hollow palm trunk
on top, and a toilet seat on top of that. And
that’s relatively extravagant. If you’re in a vil-
lage and can’t spy the loo, be sure to ask some-
one. Even if there’s no throne, there will be a
place where people usually defecate; if you
accidentally take a crap in the village garden
the locals might get shitty.
TOURIST INFORMATION
In both PNG and the Solomons there is not
much in the way of organised, Western-
style tourist offices that hand out maps and
brochures. Instead, the best information is
almost always gathered by chatting with the
locals; be it in the street, a PMV, a hotel
or guesthouse, a bar – anywhere. Most are
genuinely happy to point you in the right
direction; sometimes they’ll drop everything
and take you there!
There are, of course, a few tourism offices
around. Among the more useful:
Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau (%852 3302)
Milne Bay Tourism (%641 1503; www.milnebay
tourism.gov.pg)
Morobe Tourism Bureau (%472 7823; www.tourism
morobe.org.pg)
PNG Tourism (%320 0211; www.png-tourism.com)
This is the all-new website of the PNG Tourism Promotion
Authority. It’s well designed and informative.
PNG Tourism Promotion Authority (%320 0211;
www.pngtourism.org.pg) Focuses on marketing cam-
paigns, but the website has useful info and links. A few
international offices can be accessed from the website.
Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau (%22442; www
.visitsolomons.com.sb)
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
PNG and the Solomons have little infra-
structure to cater for the needs of disabled
travellers. Access ramps are virtually nonex-
istent and only the most upmarket hotels are
likely to have lifts (elevators).
DIRECTORY 302 D I R E C T O R Y • • V i s a s
For general information check out the fol-
lowing websites:
Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com)
Radar (www.radar.org.uk)
Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (www
.sath.org)
VISAS
Visitors must have a valid passport or interna-
tionally recognised travel document valid for
at least six months beyond the date of entry
into PNG or the Solomon Islands.
In PNG there are heavy penalties for over-
staying any visa.
Papua New Guinea
TOURIST VISAS
Far and away the easiest and cheapest way
to get a 60-day tourist visa is to apply on
arrival at the airport. The process is simple
enough: once inside the terminal change
money to get your K100, fill out a form, take
your cash and one passport photo to the
immigration desk and Bob’s your aunty’s
live-in lover. Note that on weekends or at
random other times the exchange bureau
inside immigration can be closed, and you’ll
be sent into the arrivals hall (without your
passport or luggage) to change at the Bank
South Pacific. This process can be fraught
however if you have a same-day connecting
flight out of Port Moresby into the prov-
inces – the queues can be very long and the
process can take hours. So, far and away
the most reliable and stress-free way to get
a 60-day tourist visa is to apply at PNG
diplomatic mission (see p293). In Australia
the cost of a tourist visa is A$35 (see
www.pngcanberra.org/visas/visitor.htm).
At the time of writing the PNG Tourism
Promotion Authority was advertising its in-
tention to waive the fee for tourist visas in an
effort to promote tourism. However, when
we inquired, the PNG High Commission in
Canberra, Australia, was as yet under no in-
structions to change its procedure of collect-
ing fees for tourist visas. Watch this space.
Wherever you apply, be sure to ask for the
full 60 days, as extending is a nightmare. You
might need to show onward ticketing and
adequate funds to support yourself.
People coming in by yacht pay K200 for
a visa (which must be obtained in advance)
and a K300 customs clearance fee when
they leave.
lonelyplanet.com
WORKING VISAS
Applying for a business visa requires all man-
ner of letters from home (including letters of
invitations from businesses) and PNG, as well
as details of your business. Approval can take
months, so start early. A Business Short-Term
Multiple-Entry visa is valid for 12 months and
allows stays of up to 60 days each time and
costs A$220. If you are seeking an employ-
ment visa, you must provide certain medical
results, details for a police clearance, a copy
of your employment contract and a copy of a
Work Permit issued by the PNG Deparment
of Labour & Employment.
Church and aid volunteers can enter on a
special A$25 visa (plus A$50 ‘transmission
fee’) but the issuing authorities are required to
wait for special immigration department ap-
proval. Researchers, filmmakers and journal-
ists must submit their visa applications with
a special application form from the National
Research Institute (%326 0300; fax 325 0531; PO Box
5854, Boroko). They cost A$25 (visas for journal-
ists cost A$220).
VISA EXTENSIONS
Tourist visas can be extended once only, for
one month, for a K200 fee. To do it yourself,
go to the Department of Foreign Affairs’ immi-
gration section (%323 2010; ground fl, Moale Haus, Wards
Strip, Waigani; h9am-noon Mon-Fri), where you’ll bat-
tle hordes of agents who are on first-name
terms with the staff. Extending a visa takes
one to two weeks, though occasionally travel-
lers do it faster.
Stories abound of travellers trying to extend
visas by mail from other parts of the country
and having, after weeks of waiting, to trek
back to Port Moresby to retrieve their pass-
ports. Don’t bother.
If money is not too tight, using an agent will
save you a lot of grief. Agents can be found in
the Yellow Pages under ‘Visa Services’.
VISAS FOR INDONESIA
Visas for Indonesia can be bought in Port
Moresby or Vanimo (see p293). For the low-
down on crossing the Vanimo–Jayapura bor-
der see p310.
Solomon Islands
In theory, entry visas are not required as
a three-month visitors permit is granted
upon arrival to most nationalities, and espe-
cially to Commonwealth, US and most EU
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • V o l u n t e e r i n g 303
DIRECTORY
passport-holders. However, the guidelines the Solomons. These are often in remote com-
are ambiguous for nationals from former or munities, so this sort of work is not for those
continuing communist countries, the Indian who will faint at the sight of a spider.
subcontinent, Nauru and Kiribati. Nationals Activities range from teaching and medi-
from these countries should seek advice from cal assistance to advisory roles with local
a Solomon Islands embassy (p293) before area councils. Most are either associated
travelling. If you do need a visa and there’s no with the churches or with international
Solomon Islands embassy around (pretty good volunteer organisations.
chance of that), head for a British embassy. Lonely Planet’s volunteering website (www
Visitors permits can be extended for a .lonelyplanet.com/volunteer) has excellent resources
further three months at the immigration office for those interested in making a contribution
(%25081; Mendana Ave, Honiara; h9.30-11.30am & 1.30- to PNG or the Solomon Islands.
3.30pm Mon-Fri) in the Department of Commerce, Most of the organisations listed here have
Industries & Employment building. It takes projects in both PNG and the Solomons.
24 hours and costs S$50. Australian Business Volunteers (www.abv.org.au)
Australian Volunteers International (AVA; www
VOLUNTEERING .australianvolunteers.com)
There are several organisations operating Canadian University Service Overseas (CUSO; www
volunteer projects in PNG, and a couple in .cuso.org)
VOICES: RAE SMART, VOLUNTEER
Rae Smart, aged 64, has lots of experience in volunteering, especially in PNG where she worked
for 15 years as a teacher, both in Bougainville (which she had to evacuate from in 1990) and
in Port Moresby. She is now a business development and eco-development director and runs
Australian Business Volunteers (www.abv.org.au). We met her in Rabaul during the Warwagira
Mask Festival, which she’s eager to promote abroad.
You volunteered in various countries. What makes volunteering in PNG different from
volunteering in other destinations? I must say volunteering in PNG is often a challenge, which
implies a physical challenge. Take the Sepik area for example: amenities are scarce and life’s tough.
But the rewards are huge. The culture is so diverse and so distinct from anywhere else that it
does get under the skin like no other place on earth – even if you don’t want it to!
In the minds of many people, PNG has a fairly negative image. Is it a dangerous country
to be a volunteer in?
Some aspects of this bad publicity are true. Crime and lawlessness are a problem. But it’s equally
true to say that people in PNG are incredibly kind-hearted; whatever they have they share it
with you – especially true for women. Don’t be shy of these people, getting to know them is
very rewarding.
What are the main voluntary programmes in PNG? There are lots of possibilities: health ed-
ucation, AIDS awareness, poverty reduction, agriculture, fisheries, peace and reconciliation in
Bougainville, business development, among others. There’s something for everybody.
Is PNG a safe place for women volunteers? It depends on where they go. Rapes and attacks
are not uncommon in this country, and it can be quite daunting. It’s preferable to avoid cities.
As a rule of thumb, the deeper you go into the bush, the safer it is. Rural areas are much safer
because the community looks after you and values you.
Then it’s a matter of etiquette and behaviour. My tips: act confidently; find out what the taboos
of the local culture are; dress modestly; don’t swim in bikinis, and cover your knees; don’t walk
on your own and try to take a local guide to accompany you; make friends with women; in cities,
don’t go out of your hotel with anything you don’t want to lose. Whatever the hardships, all I
can say to potential women travellers and volunteers is: don’t hesitate to go to PNG.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
DIRECTORY 304 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o r k 305

German Development Service (DED; %325 5380;
www.ded.de)
Japan International Co-operation Agency (JICA;
%325 1699; www.jica.go.jp/png)
Voluntary Service Overseas (British VSO; %852
1924; www.vso.org.uk)
Volunteer Service Abroad (NZ VSA; %325 4136;
www.vsa.org.nz)
Some other useful websites that have details
for those interested in volunteering:
Global Volunteers (www.globalvolunteers.org)
Volunteer Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com)
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Plenty of women travel to PNG and the
Solomons and while doing so with a man, or
a friend, is usually safer than doing so alone,
quite a few solo women have written to us with
glowing reports of their trips. Lone women
can find PNG trying, but if you’ve travelled
to developing countries by yourself in the past
(Africa, the Middle East, Indonesia…) you
probably won’t find PNG or the Solomons par-
ticularly difficult. Of course, lone women need
to be more aware of where they go, what they
wear and how they act. There are common-
sense precautions outlined in Dangers &
Annoyances (p291).
We haven’t heard of any women travel-
lers being sexually assaulted, but women are
raped with disturbing regularity in PNG so
you should avoid any situation where you’re
alone with a man you don’t know well. At
night, don’t go anywhere alone, and avoid
secluded spots at any time.
Men sometimes assume you’re fair game
if travelling alone and it’s not uncommon to
DIRECTORY
experience some low-level harassment, such PNG and the Solomons have many strong WORK
as whistling, hissing etc. Ignore it. beliefs about women and their menstrual cy- There are about 20,000 expats living in PNG
It can sometimes be difficult for women to cles, and in some parts women are considered and they work in just about every facet of the
have a normal conversation with a man with- to be dangerous to men during menstruation – economy. Mining, logging, financial services,
out being misinterpreted as a flirt. Similarly, if it’s that time of the month it’s better not to aviation and tourism are full of expats, often
a Western man who attempts to initiate a mention it. In some parts, the Sepik for exam- earning quite good money. At the other end
conversation with a local woman can cause ple, women are thought to have powerful en- of the spectrum, aid agencies and projects
embarrassment and confusion. ergies that can be harmful to men. It is tambu in PNG and the Solomons attract volunteer
You need to think about what you wear, in many places for a woman to pass over a workers (see p303).
but not too hard. Three-quarter-length pants man – to step over a seated man’s outstretched Potential employees will need to get a
and T-shirts are common and you can get legs or even over his possessions, and a man work permit/visa, which can be a convoluted
away with shorts if they’re not too far above mustn’t swim under a woman in a canoe. process (see p302).
the knee – showing thighs is considered
sexually provocative.
Skimpy tops, however, should be avoided.
You won’t see local women in Western-style
swimwear, and unless you’re at a resort it’s
best to use a laplap (sarong) as a wrap. Take
your cue from local women.
Public displays of affection are almost
unknown, and a Western couple making
physical contact in public – even holding
hands – is regarded as an oddity and, espe-
cially in traditional rural societies, may be
regarded with contempt. This can put the
woman in danger. In villages you’ll notice
a distinct difference between the way local
people see themselves and how they expect
Westerners to see them. Women will cover
their breasts as soon as you arrive, a hang-up
from the time of the conservative mastas (co-
lonial white adult males) and their haughty
attitudes towards locals.
Many towns have women’s groups (which
sometimes have guesthouses) and these are
good places to meet local women and learn
about their lives. Usually it’s OK for men to
go as well, but check first.

SOLO WOMEN TRAVELLERS Lina Abirafeh

The country and its cultures differ dramatically depending on where you are. The strongly patri-
archal culture of the Highlands can make it difficult for solo women travellers. Violence in this
part of the country is common and men may be more aggressive towards women. Road travel
in the Highlands is also risky, where hold-ups and ambushes can lead to sexual violence. It’s not
uncommon for women travellers to use armed escorts on the Highlands Hwy.
On the other hand, people in some of the coastal regions, such as Milne Bay Province, live in
matrilineal societies and they’re very receptive to solo women travellers. Generally, the coastal
and islands regions are safer for women and get more tourists.
Women are warmly received if they make the effort to wear a meri blaus (a top worn by local
women) or other local attire. Local women appreciate the gesture and men acknowledge that
this is a sign of respect for their local cultures and customs. This is highly recommended for lone
women travellers. Meri blauses can be purchased in local markets.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
306
Transport
PAPUA NEW GUINEA
CONTENTS The national airline is Air Niugini (%1300 361
380 in Australia; www.airniugini.com.pg). It and Airlines
Getting There & Away 306 PNG (%1300 764 696 in Australia; www.apng.com) are
Entering the Region 306 the only carriers that operate scheduled
Air 306 services to PNG. Qantas (www.qantas.com) has
Land 310 a code-share agreement with Air Niugini
Sea 311 that awards Qantas Frequent Flyer points
TRANSPORT
Tours 311 on international flights. Qantas sells seats
Getting Around 312 on flights between Australia and PNG,
Air 312
but Qantas planes no longer fly to PNG:
Bicycle 315 Air Niugini carries Qantas passengers.
Boat 315
Air Niugini flies to Cairns, Brisbane and
Car & Motorcycle 317 Sydney in Australia, and Tokyo, Manila,
Hitching 318
Singapore and Honiara. At the time of re-
Local Transport in Urban Areas 318 search, Cairns and Brisbane were the only
Pmv 318
cities from which you could fly to PNG
Tours 319 with Airlines PNG.
Walking 319
Jackson’s Airport (POM) located in Port
Moresby is, for the time being, the only in-
GETTING THERE & AWAY ternational airport in PNG. For years there
has been talk of Mt Hagen and Alotau
ENTERING THE REGION reopening for international flights – if
Most people can enter both Papua New Guinea they do, flights will probably be to/from
and the Solomons with nothing more than a Cairns only.
passport with six months’ validity, an onward There’s an Air Niugini office (%327 3396) at
ticket and enough money to support them- Jackson’s Airport where you can buy domes-
selves. Make sure you have at least some cash tic and international tickets.
on you to pay for your visa. For details, see
p302. There is a departure tax of S$40 in the SOLOMON ISLANDS
Solomon Islands while in PNG the departure Solomon Airlines (% 20031; www.solomonairlines
tax is incorporated into your ticket price. .com.au), the national carrier, is vying for
the title of least reliable airline on earth,
though to be fair its international serv-
AIR ices are better than the domestic flights.
The vast majority of visitors to PNG and the From its base at Henderson Airport (HIR),
Solomon Islands will arrive by air.
Airports & Airlines THINGS CHANGE...
The good thing about flying into either PNG The information in this chapter is particu-
or the Solomons is that you don’t have to larly vulnerable to change. Check directly
shop around too much looking for a ticket. with the airline or a travel agent to make
In the past routes into both PNG and the sure you understand how a fare (and ticket
Solomons were almost exclusively control- you may buy) works and be aware of the
led by the national airlines of the respective security requirements for international
countries. Recently there’s been some new travel. Shop carefully. The details given in
competition that, thankfully, has brought this chapter should be regarded as pointers
down airfares. But, even though prices have and are not a substitute for your own careful,
come down, airfares into PNG and the up-to-date research.
Solomons are still expensive.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 307
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL
Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben-
efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.
Flying & Climate Change
Pretty much every form of motor travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced climate
change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer distances
they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere.
The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will
contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity consump-
TRANSPORT
tion over a whole year.
Carbon Offset Schemes
Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow jetsetters to offset the
greenhouse gases they are responsible for with contributions to energy-saving projects and
other climate-friendly initiatives in the developing world – including projects in India, Honduras,
Kazakhstan and Uganda.
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry,
supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff
and author travel.
For more information check out our website: lonelyplanet.com.
11km east of Honiara, Solomon Airlines
flies four or five days a week to Brisbane.
Almost all flights to Honiara go via
Australia or Fiji. So if you’re coming from
At the time of research this Honiara– Europe, Asia or anywhere in between – head
Brisbane service was looking shaky – for Australia. From North America, also
its plane was grounded and it had chartered look at Air Pacific (www.airpacific.com) or anyone
an Ozjet plane to service this route. It also else flying to Fiji.
has one or two flights weekly to Nadi in Fiji
and Port Vila or Santo in Vanuatu. Asia
Formerly Air Nauru, Our Airline (%+677 22586 There are no flights between PNG and
in Honiara, 1300 369 044 in Australia; www.airnauru.com.au) neighbouring Indonesia. Garuda Indonesia
flies weekly on a Thursday from Brisbane to and a couple of Indonesia’s new budget
Honiara, overnights in Honiara, then flies airlines do fly to Jayapura, just across the
Friday Honiara–Nauru–Tarawa (Kiribati) border from PNG; travel agencies in Jakarta
and back. and Denpasar can help, otherwise you have
Air Pacific (%+679 672 0888 in Fiji, 1800 230 150 to fly via Singapore or Cairns.
in Australia; www.airpacific.com), Fiji’s national car- Air Niugini has weekly flights between
rier, flies weekly from Nadi with good con- Manila and Port Moresby on Tuesday,
nections to Brisbane, all over the Pacific Wednesday and Thursday. There are
and beyond. also flights from Singapore on Monday,
Air Niugini (%+677 20336 in Honiara; www.airniugini Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, and Tokyo
.com.pg) flies twice weekly between Honiara on Saturday and Sunday.
and Port Moresby. Air Niugini was flying a From anywhere else in Asia you’ll need
direct route between Tokua (Rabaul, PNG) to first get to one of the cities listed here or
to Honiara a few years ago. It’s possible that somewhere in Australia.
this route may be resurrected. An agency worth considering is STA
Travel (Bangkok %02 236 0262; www.statravel.co.th;
Tickets Singapore % 6737 7188; www.statravel.com.sg; Tokyo
If you buy your flight to PNG with Air %03 5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp). Another re-
Niugini you qualify for discounts on the source in Japan is No 1 Travel (%03 3205 6073;
airline’s domestic services. www.no1-travel.com). Schenker Travel (%2545 1033;
 308 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r R o u t e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 309

www.schenker.com.hk), in Hong Kong, is efficient with a Nadi–Port Moresby or Nadi–Honiara

60 miles
100 km

Auki
Malaita I
and reliable. flight with Air Pacific (www.airpacific.com), Air

Rennell I
Niugini or Solomon Airlines.

Tinggoa
Solomon Airlines

264
Australia & New Zealand Some reliable agencies:
Airlines PNG
446
Air Niugini

Fares are one-way exclusive of

Air Niugini operates code-share services with

Solomon Islands prices are in

Solomon Island dollars (S$)

HONIARA
416

PNG prices are in Kina (K)

Guadalcanal

Bellona
Bellona I
surcharges and GST
Qantas between Australia and PNG. There FRANCE
are a range of fares and some complex dis- Anyway (%0892-893 892; www.anyway.fr in French)

192
486
count structures (see www.airniugini.com.pg Nouvelles Frontières (%0825-000 747; www

588
0
0

for details) and it pays to book ahead. The .nouvelles-frontieres.fr in French)

Seghe
Ramata

8
following prices are for the full-fare/cheapest OTU Voyages (www.otu.fr in French) This agency special-

66
284
discounted return seats including taxes and ises in student and youth travel.

215

Munda

215
charges: Sydney (A$2670/810, twice weekly);

Choiseul
Brisbane (A$2225/805, daily); and Cairns GERMANY
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
345

Gizo

SOLOMON
ISLANDS
(A$1463/534, daily). Promotional fares must Just Travel (%089-747 3330; www.justtravel.de)

215
5
Bougainville 34 be paid for within 24 hours of booking. You Lastminute (%01805-284 366; www.lastminute.de

Ballalae
can book at either Qantas or Air Niugini of- in German)
fices online (the Air Niugini website calculates
Buka

fares in kina) or through a travel agency. OTHER COUNTRIES

PACIFIC

OCEAN

To the Solomons, a 30-day Solomon Airfair (%020-620 5121; www.airfair.nl in Dutch) In

Airlines return airfare to Honiara from the Netherlands.
Brisbane costs A$1080; it flies at least four Barcelo Viajes (%902-116 226; www.barceloviajes

NEW GUINEA
3
29

times per week. World Aviation Systems (%07

PAPUA
.com in Spanish) In Spain.

Misima I
Rabaul/Tokua

Sea

3407 7149 www.worldaviation.com.au) are agents in CTS Viaggi (%06-462 0431; www.cts.it in Italian)
Australia for Solomon Airlines. Agencies Italian agency, specialising in student and youth travel.
Solomon
Ireland

worth looking at include Flight Centre (%133

New

Kiriwina I

133; www.flightcentre.com.au) and STA Travel (%1300 The Pacific

$2370
Losuia

733 035; www.statravel.com.au). For online bookings, Air Pacific operates from Nadi to Honiara
Kavieng

K875/S
343
Britain

43
New

2 try www.travel.com.au or www.zu ji.com. (S$3184 one-way including taxes), from

39

335
2

From New Zealand to PNG, connect with where Air Niugini flies to Port Moresby.
0

Alotau
70

an Air Niugini flight in Australia. Flights to Alternatively, Air Niugini flies Nadi to Port
Gurney
Hoskins

Australia can be very cheap if you plan ahead. Moresby return for K1623 (valid for 14 days).
1

STA Travel (%0508 782 872; www.statravel.co.nz) has

Tufi
53

The only other way of getting to PNG from

477

1
55
branches throughout the country and www the Pacific is via Australia.
624
Popondetta
311

Bismarck

.travel.co.nz is a good online source.

9
Solomon Airlines flies weekly to Honiara
581

51
351
335
Sea

from Port Vila in Vanuatu. A 30-day return

Kokoda

381
Woitape

177

Continental Europe fare costs S$4060. From Nadi the return

Lorengau

112

201

The easiest and probably the cheapest way Solomon Airlines fare is S$3401.
MORESBY
Lae

279 314 from Europe to PNG is to put together a

PORT

382
Sea
Manus I

ticket to Singapore or Australia and then on The UK & Ireland

2

377 to Port Moresby on an Air Niugini flight. Flying via Australia is the obvious way to get
39
Madang

Kerema

Coral

There are millions of deals to Australia or to PNG from the UK and Ireland, and is es-
569

396
Goroka

9
83
Singapore, some of the cheapest with air-
6

2 pecially attractive given the plethora of cheap

38

39
61 212

lines such as Gulf Air (www.gulfairco.com), Emirates deals on offer. Return tickets from London
MAIN ROUTES & FARES

988

Kundiawa

47 9

572

1
31

43 (www.emirates.com), Qantas (www.qantas.com) or Eva

7

to Australia can cost as little as UK£680

1
8
810

62

Air (www.evaair.com), costing from €1100 re- including taxes; or you could consider a
2
26

turn including taxes. Most round-the-world

52

round-the-world ticket taking in Australia

2
Kikori

64
Mendi

525
tickets take in Singapore and Australia; and starting at about UK£850. You would
Mt Hagen

819
295

you could tack on a flight to PNG or the then have to tack on flights to the PNG, but
AUSTRALIA
Wewak

Balimo

Solomons. The Singapore option is obviously if you make your way to Cairns these are
Moro

Daru
Tari

shorter, but coming via Australia gives you relatively cheap.

253

9 6
5

93 80
36
572

far more dates (more than a dozen flights The other option is flying to Singapore,
495

86
8 per week versus two from Singapore to then on to Port Moresby. Again, there is al-
Kiunga
Vanimo

Suki

Port Moresby). ways some sort of deal to Singapore – Emirates

Tabubil

2
16
297
Alternatively, you could fly return to Fiji and other Middle Eastern airlines have some
Obo

with Korean Air (www.koreanair.com) and hook up

INDONESIA
great offers.
 310 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d
To get to the Solomons, make your way to
Australia and take a flight from Brisbane.
In the UK, advertisements for many travel
agencies appear in the travel pages of the
weekend broadsheet newspapers, in Time Out,
the Evening Standard and in the free magazine
TNT. Also check out the following:
Bridge the World (%0870-444 7474; www.b-t-w
.co.uk)
STA Travel (%0870-160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) For
travellers under the age of 26.
Trailfinders (%020-7938 3939; www.trailfinders.co.uk)
Travel Bag (%0870-890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk)
TRANSPORT
The USA & Canada
There are a couple of options from North
America: fly to Australia, then on to Port
Moresby; or fly to Narita (Tokyo), Manila or
Singapore, then on to Port Moresby. Deals be-
tween a number of US and Canadian cities and
Australia’s east coast are common and a good
return flight to Australia is about US$1150.
From North America you could fly to the
Solomons via Brisbane or, if you coordinate
with Solomon Airlines’ infrequent flights, travel
via Nadi in Fiji or Port Vila in Vanuatu.
The via-Asia options might prove cheaper,
but with only one or two flights to PNG a week
they can be inconvenient. Deals to Narita can
be particularly good (US$570 from the west
coast, US$730 from New York), and if you’re
flying from the east coast, might cut out a
couple of stops. Some agencies recommended
for online bookings:
www.cheapflights.com
www.expedia.com (www.expedia.ca in Canada)
www.orbitz.com
www.travelocity.com (www.travelocity.ca in Canada)
In Canada there’s also Travel Cuts (%800-667-
2887; www.travelcuts.com), the country’s national
student travel agency.
LAND
Border Crossings
The only land border crossing in either PNG
or the Solomon Islands is between Vanimo
in Sandaun Province and Jayapura in Papua
Province (West Papua), Indonesia. At the
time of research this border (PNG h9am-5pm,
Indonesia h8am-4pm) was open and operating
pretty smoothly, but it has a history of closing
at short notice so check Lonely Planet’s Thorn
Tree (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com) bulletin board
before making plans.
lonelyplanet.com
Leaving PNG for Indonesia is relatively
straightforward although it can take all day
to cross between the two countries. If you
haven’t already got an Indonesian visa in
Port Moresby (p293) you’ll need to get one
at the Indonesian Consulate (%857 1371; fax 857 1373;
h9am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) in Vanimo. It takes
24 hours to issue a 30-day or 60-day visa and
only the 30-day visas can be extended inside
Indonesia. You’ll need K70, two photos, a
completed application form (which you get
there) and a passport valid for at least six
months. It’s best to say you’re heading for
Bali or Manado as they are less controversial
destinations than anywhere in Papua.
Locals travel by PMV to the market on the
Indonesian side of the border to stock up on
cheaply made goods. Immigration officials
turn a blind eye to shopping day trippers
although this courtesy is seldom extended
to foreigners. PMVs to the border (K10, 1½
to two hours) leave around 8am from the
main roundabout every weekday. Failing that,
Visser Enterprises Ltd (p187) will drive you
there for K154.
Formalities on the PNG side are easy,
however Indonesian immigration isn’t able
to stamp you into their country. Instead, you
must go directly to the immigration office once
you get to Jayapura (opposite the Dafonsoro
Hotel), fill out a form and present your pass-
port and 50,000Rp. The staff here like to keep
you waiting but if you don’t get the stamp
you will have dramas exiting. If you plan on
travelling elsewhere in Papua you will need a
Surat Keterangan Jalan (SKJ), or travel permit.
This is issued by the provincial police office in
Jayapura for a small fee and two photos.
Back at the border you will need to catch
a shared taxi (16,700Rp or 350,000Rp for the
whole car) into Jayapura or hitch.
Entering PNG you must first get a visa
in Jayapura (or any other PNG mission; see
p293). This is fairly straightforward, but will
take at least a couple of days. Remember you
must get stamped out of Indonesia at the
immigration office in Jayapura, not at the
border itself. You’ll need to pay a 50,000Rp
fee and you must leave within 24 hours of
the date of your stamp. The office is open
(or can be opened) most of the time and if
the staff tell you that your passport can be
stamped at the border hold your ground be-
cause the border officials will insist that you
return to Jayapura!
lonelyplanet.com
The occasional bus (1½ hours) leaves
for the border. You might need to change
buses a few times. If you’re in a hurry con-
sider hiring an ojek (motorbike), or per-
haps two (to help with luggage) to take you
straight there.
SEA
There are plenty of boats plying the waters
around PNG and the Solomons, but very
few are actually scheduled services to other
countries. For information on travelling be-
tween Bougainville and the Solomon Islands,
see the boxed text, p314.
Papua New Guinea
Unless you are a Torres Strait Islander, it
is illegal to island hop between Thursday
Island (known as TI to locals) and PNG.
You can exit Australia from TI but you must
go directly to PNG, usually Daru, where you
can pass through immigration if you already
have a visa.
PRIVATE BOATS
PNG and the Solomons are popular stop-
ping points for cruising yachts, either heading
through Asia or the Pacific. In PNG you can
clear immigration at Alotau, Daru, Kavieng,
Kimbe, Lae, Lorengau, Madang, Misima
Island, Port Moresby, Rabaul, Samarai and
Vanimo. You must get a visa before you arrive.
See www.noonsite.com for a full rundown.
CRUISE SHIPS
There is no shortage of ‘Pacific island para-
dises’ in PNG and the Solomons, but finding
one of the huge trans-Pacific cruising vessels
that calls in is nigh impossible. Samarai Island
in Milne Bay Province used to see one or two
ships a year, but not anymore.
On a slightly smaller scale North Star Cruises
(%+618 9192 1829; www.northstarcrusies.com.au) of-
fers cruises aboard the True North which is
limited to 36 passengers who depart from
Cairns in Australia on a Dash 8 aircraft and
land in Alotau. The luxury boat plies through
the Louisiade islands in Milne Bay Province,
Tufi, New Britain, the Duke of Yorks and
onto Kavieng from where passengers fly back
to Cairns.
The Orion (%1300 361 012 in Australia; www.orion
cruises.com.au) has a cruise that leaves Auckland
in New Zealand, and travels through New
Caledonia, Vanuatu before visiting Santa Ana,
G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • S e a 311
the Nggelas and Gizo in the Solomons, and
Rabaul in PNG.
The Coral Princess (%+617 4080 4080; www.png
holidays.com.au) plies a route from Cairns to
Alotau, through the Trobriands, New Britain,
the Sepik, Madang and Tufi to Port Moresby.
For something smaller and more bou-
tique try the SV Imajica II (www.theimajica
experience.com) that does charters, surfaris,
diving and exploratory cruises through the
waters of PNG.
Solomon Islands
TRANSPORT
The Solomons is similarly popular with
private yachties but, like PNG, doesn’t see
much in the way of big boats. Places where
you can complete immigration formali-
ties include Honiara, Gizo, Graciosa Bay
(Ndende Island, Santa Cruz), Noro and
Yandina. Boats can stay in the Solomons for
three months and this can be extended to a
total of six months. For a swathe of detail
see the excellent www.noon site.com.
It might be possible to crew on a yacht par-
ticipating in the newly re-established Brisbane
to Gizo Yacht Race held annually in May (it
was cancelled in 2007 because of the April
tsunami). For more information contact the
Gizo Yacht Club (www.gizoyacht club.com.sb).
TOURS
The three main PNG-based inbound tour
operators are Melanesian Tourist Services,
Trans Niugini Tours and Niugini Holidays.
They offer a wide variety of tours but prices
are usually disconcertingly high. As with
tours anywhere, taking this option should
give you a pretty smooth trip, but you can do
much the same thing for about half the price
if you’re prepared to send a few emails and
organise it yourself. For smaller operators, see
p319. For Kokoda Track tours, see p93.
Dick Lang’s Desert Air (%08-8264 7200, 1800 004
200, both in Australia; www.dicklang.com.au) Operates
all-inclusive air safaris. A unique option, visiting some
off-the beaten-track places. Itineraries are usually timed
around the Goroka and Mt Hagen shows.
Eco-Tourism Melanesia (%323 4518; www.em.com
.pg) Locally owned and operated, Eco-Tourism Melanesia
focuses on village-based tours and cultural, wildlife,
bird-watching and trekking trips. Highly recommended,
but not cheap.
Field Guides (www.fieldguides.com/png.htm) Well-
organised but expensive bird-watching tours, focusing on
birds of paradise. US-based.
 312 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r 313

Melanesian Tourist Services (%675-311 2050;
www.mtspng.com) Operates several high-end resorts,
which you’ll stay at on its tours. Runs diving and Sepik
tours.
Niugini Holidays (%1300 850 020, 02-9290 2055,
both in Australia; www.nghols.com) Probably the biggest
range of tours, from specialised family tours through surf-
ing, fishing, diving, trekking, war-veterans tours and more.
Trans Niugini Tours (%675-542 1438; www.png
tours.com) Based in Mt Hagen, these guys operate the
Sepik Spirit (see p315) and several luxury lodges. There are
general tours, wildlife tours, treks, cruises and tours of the
cultural shows.
TRANSPORT
ubiquitous balus (aeroplane). About 2000
airstrips have been cut out of the bush or
into hill tops and coral islands during the
last 80 years or so and the aeroplane has be-
come almost symbolic of the way technology
has intruded so successfully into what was
a loose collection of hunter-gatherer socie-
ties. Less than a quarter of these airstrips are
regularly used today, but many involve the
sort of hair-raising landings you won’t easily
forget. The pilots are extremely skilful – keep
telling yourself this as you approach flat-
topped ridges masquerading as airports.
Outside Port Moresby and Honiara you can
forget about X-rays and metal detectors.
For lighter aircraft, not only is your baggage
weighed (16kg is the limit but 20kg is usually
accepted), so are you – this can be embarrass-
ing if you’ve been indulging in too much kaikai
(food) and bia (beer). Excess-baggage charges
are reasonable but can add considerably to
your travel costs if you’re lugging around a
weighty Sepik carving that you bought in a
moment of pique. Some remote strips have
no facilities at all – sometimes just a guy with
a two-way radio who meets the flights, and at
A 30-day Port Moresby to Honiara return
flight with Air Niugini costs K1449 (K2206
valid for six months).
Airlines in the Region
While Air Niugini operates larger planes to the
larger centres, the smaller second- and third-
level airlines service everywhere else. Airlines
PNG (formerly called Milne Bay Air) is the
main secondary airline in PNG, with North
Coast Aviation, covering destinations out of
Lae, and MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship)
dealing with the smallest communities, and

TRANSPORT
Aircraft are often small and strips can be many of these remote strips you’ll have to buy doing it pretty well. In theory, tickets on Air
almost unrecognisable if you don’t know to your ticket direct from the pilot – cash only. Niugini and Airlines PNG can be booked at
GETTING AROUND look for them. Some of the more remote strips
you land on might look and feel more like
Outside the main centres don’t rely on
being able to pay for anything on credit. Even
any travel agency linked into the international
computer reservations network.
AIR rally tracks, and others have slight bends to in big towns there’s no guarantee. Air Niugini Following is a list of airlines operating
PNG and the Solomon Islands are probably negotiate during take off and landing! The refused our plastic at Jackson’s Airport in Port scheduled flights in PNG and the Solomons.
more reliant on air transport than any other strip at Wau is on a nine-degree slope. All of Moresby because ‘the phone lines are down’ – Local offices are listed on the airline websites
country on the earth. The population is scat- them are great fun! a common problem. or under the relevant destinations in the re-
tered, often isolated in mountain valleys and Aviation in PNG and the Solomons will Unpredictable weather combined with me- gional chapters; the websites also have up-
on tiny islands, but even the most remote probably prove more informal than you’re chanical problems and complex schedules can to-date fare tables. Other airlines do charter
villages now have some familiarity with the used to (alert: understatement of the year!). frequently lead to delays, or cancellations. services; see the Yellow Pages.
It’s not unheard of for passengers to stand Air Niugini (%327 3444; www.airniugini.com.pg)
around scanning the horizon all day. In the Airlines PNG (%325 0555; www.apng.com)
THOSE MAGNIFICENT MEN & THEIR FLYING MACHINES Solomons your domestic flight has about a MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship; %325 2668; www
50% chance of arriving on the right day. So .maf.org.au)
The development of the Wau and Bulolo gold fields in the 1920s launched aviation in New
have a book (or two) handy, and make friends North Coast Aviation (%472 1755; norco-lae@global
Guinea. Cecil John Levien realised the gold fields would never be successful as long as getting
with the locals. .net.pg)
men and supplies up from the coast involved a long, hard slog across difficult terrain populated
Flying in this part of the world is far more Solomon Airlines (%20031; www.solomonairlines
by unfriendly tribes. So his Guinea Gold company set up Guinea Airways.
than just getting from A to B and provides .com.au)
Its pilot, ‘Pard’ Mustar, had to do far more than just fly the first DH-37 biplane. First he ar-
some of the most memorable moments of
ranged for an airstrip to be constructed at Lae (the local jail provided prisoners to build it), then
he walked from Salamaua to Wau to supervise the airstrip construction there. Next, he had to
your trip (or your life). It would be even more Fares & Discounts
of a joy if it wasn’t so damned expensive. Airlines PNG doesn’t offer any discounts on
travel back to Rabaul where the DH-37 had arrived in pieces as sea cargo, assemble it and fly
The PNG domestic air scene is currently in its domestic sectors, so a return fair is sim-
to Lae – a 650km journey, much of it over sea and unexplored jungle, in a single-engine aircraft
a period of dramatic change. Popular third- ply twice the price of a one-way fare, all year
of dubious reliability.
level airline Airlink went broke in mid-2007 round. One-way flights within PNG are a
In April 1927 Mustar took off on his first flight to Wau – and couldn’t find it! He returned
after being grounded for a period over trans- little cheaper with Airlines PNG than with Air
to Lae, took more directions and advice and tried again with an equal lack of success. Finally,
gressions of safety regulations. Airlink was the Niugini, so if you’re only travelling one way it’s
on his third attempt, and with an experienced guide on board, he made the first of many
only flyer servicing many remote airstrips in better to fly with Airlines PNG. If, however,
50-minute flights.
PNG – many barely profitable with the cur- you can arrange your itinerary around return
Mustar quickly realised the need for more capacity and reliability, and before the end of 1927
rent cost of aviation fuel – so it remains to be flights then it’s better to fly with Air Niugini.
he went to Germany to buy a Junkers W-34 at the astronomical cost of UK£8000. It may have
seen exactly if or how this hole will be filled. Air Niugini has a bag full of discounts – no-
been expensive, but at the time it was the latest thing in cargo aircraft and could lift over a ton.
At the time of writing, Airlines PNG had body pays the full fare on Air Niugini domestic
A second W-34 soon followed, and with these aircraft Guinea Airways operated a service that
‘suspended indefinitely’ since June 2007 its flights – and its discounts apply to return jour-
proved the real possibilities of air transport just as convincingly as the much better publicised
services to all but its major destinations. neys. To benefit you must arrange your flights
flights of Lindbergh or Kingsford-Smith. Wau became the busiest airfield in the world and more
After the collapse of Airlink this created as a series of return journeys. So if you want
air freight was lifted annually in New Guinea than in the rest of the world put together!
further isolation for people around the to fly Port Moresby–Rabaul–Kavieng–Port
Mustar left New Guinea but in 1929 was called back to attempt a scheme that, to many people
remote airstrips. Moresby, rather than buying three one-way
at the time, must have seemed like something in the realms of science fiction. He had to find
Following stiff competition from Airlines flights, buy a Port Moresby–Rabaul return,
a way of flying gold dredges weighing 3000 tons into the gold fields. Mustar’s answer was to
PNG for both its main international and do- and a Rabaul–Kavieng return.
dismantle the dredges and buy another Junkers, the G-31, a three-engine, all-metal monster that
mestic routes, Air Niugini revised its fares in The ‘See PNG Fare’ offers a 20% discount
cost UK£30,000 and could lift three tons. In the early 1930s a fleet of these aircraft carried not
2007. Air Niugini domestic fares were reduced on all advance purchases of domestic tick-
just gold equipment but also workers and even the first horses ever to be transported by air.
by an average of about 10%. ets to non-PNG residents who can produce
 314 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B i c y c l e 315

Discounted tickets must be paid for in full Boat Charter

FROM BOUGAINVILLE TO GIZO – THE GUN RUN Markus Arnold & Win Schumacher within 24 hours of booking. For more details Many dive operators charter their boats, some
The route between the Solomon Islands and Bougainville was for years the main thoroughfare see www.airniugini.com. for extended cruises. A cheaper alternative,
for smuggled guns for the Bougainville Revolutionary Army (BRA) and contraband for the people Flexisaver Fares At 30% off the normal economy round- if you’re not looking for comfort and the
of Bougainville which was blockaded during the secessionist war. Today, the route is once again trip fare, Flexisaver Fares have no minimum stay and a chance to dive, is to try to charter a work
open to civilian traffic, although ‘open’ is something of an overstatement – the crossing is illegal 90-day maximum stay. boat. Chartering is definitely possible in Milne
and there is no PNG immigration post in Bougainville so you can’t get an exit stamp in your Fully Flexi Fares At 15% off the normal economy Bay, Lae and the islands – for a group of five
passport. However it’s possible to slip into the Solomons and get to Gizo, either by plane (from round-trip fare, Fully Flexi Fares can be upgraded to full or six, it isn’t ruinously expensive. For more
Ballalae airstrip, infrequently serviced from Gizo) or by motor-canoe. economy class. on dive boats, see p55.
We met two intrepid German travellers who did the Bougainville–Shortlands–Gizo crossing Supersaver Fares These are 45% off the normal
in a 10m motor-canoe: economy class round-trip fare. The same conditions apply Cruise Boats
‘Initially we wanted to get to Buin, to the southern tip of Bougainville, where we had planned on these tickets as on the Wantok Fares (though they may Melanesian Travel Services (MTS; www.mtspng.com),
be available when Wantok Fares are not). owners of the Madang Resort Hotel, Malagan
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
to share a boat ride to the Shortlands (on Saturday, which is market day), but the Arawa–Buin
road was blocked due to a landslide. Luckily we found a motor-canoe in Sirawai, a few kilometres Wantok Fares These are the cheapest at 60% off the Beach Resort et al, sold their popular cruise
from the landslide. The crossing to the Shortlands took three hours, along Bougainville’s amaz- normal economy class round-trip fare. Passengers must boat MTS Discoverer in November 2006. They
ing coastline. We registered at the police station in Lofung, to the east of Shortland Island. The stay away at least one Sunday (if they fly out on a Sunday plan to build another cruiser soon.
policemen were truly surprised to see two foreigners but did not make any fuss about our arrival they must stay away at least one week). There’s a 30-day For the time being, that leaves only the
by boat from PNG. We spent the night near Korovou. maximum stay. Sepik Spirit, run by Trans Niugini Tours (www
The next morning we had an early start (3am) to tackle the second crossing, due south to .pngtours.com), cruising PNG waters full-time. It
Gizo. What a crossing! The first hour was nightmarish – the sea was so rough (think 3m swells) These fares may not be available at all can accommodate up to 18 people in its nine
that we had to take shelter in the lagoon south of Fauro Island. When the sea calmed down times, and must be issued on Air Niugini luxury rooms and does mainly Sepik River
a bit, we started off again, this time in the open ocean. We tried to forget all those stories of ticket stocks – you must buy them from cruises, usually packaged with the company’s
capsized boats in these waters… Apart from a few showers, the sea remained fairly calm. The an Air Niugini office. Be certain of your luxury lodges in the Highlands and on the
boat made a few stops, at Vella Lavella and other smaller islands. Around noon the silhouette travelling dates as changing them incurs river. It’s not cheap – all inclusive four-day/
of Mt Kolombangara became visible on the horizon. The crossing of Gizo Strait was a bit nerve- a K110 penalty. Cashing them incurs a three-night Sepik cruise costs about US$1740
racking due to huge swells. We arrived in Gizo at 2pm, exhausted but relieved to have covered K165 penalty. per person, twin share.
this stretch without any incident. The ride cost us S$200. We went to the Immigration Office Solomon Airlines has no discounts on its
and got stamped in without fuss’. domestic fares. Large Boats
There are definitely some risks involved in this crossing, but here are a few words of wis- Sailing from one exotic locale to the next,
dom for the intrepid who’d like to travel by boat between the Shortlands and Gizo as safely Air Passes via who-knows-where, on a slowly rolling
as possible: Air Niugini offers an excellent-value four- freighter has a certain Joseph Conrad–style
coupon ‘See PNG Pass’ that allows visitors to romance to it. And while cargo boats gen-
„ Preferably test your seaworthiness beforehand, eg by taking a boat ride on shorter routes,
such as Rabaul–Duke of York Islands or Kavieng–New Hanover.
travel four domestic sectors for US$375 (not erally don’t take travellers, it’s worth trying
including taxes and charges). The pass must your luck. Lae on the north coast is the main
„ It’s best to have previous experience of the open ocean. Being out at sea with no landmarks be purchased prior to arrival in PNG. shipping hub in PNG, and it’s the best place
is quite intimidating. Between the Shortlands and Gizo, there’s a one- to three-hour period
of time (depending on the weather conditions) when you can really feel that sense of empti-
to look; ask around the port to see what’s
ness. You need to be self-confident.
BICYCLE going. You’ll almost always have more luck
In the odd town or island, such as New Ireland, getting on a freighter by talking directly to
„ Choose a boat in good shape, equipped with a powerful engine (minimum 40Hp, but it’s possible to rent a bike (about K20 per day), the ship’s captain (and perhaps investing in
preferably 60Hp), and with two drivers. but don’t expect anything flash. a few SP Lagers) rather than the office people.
„ Avoid boats that are overloaded – risks of capsizing are greater. Accommodation is usually in a spare cabin
„ Check the equipment on board: ask about the number of lifejackets (one per person). BOAT and you should ask about food and water
Island hopping through PNG and the (you’ll probably have to BYO). Bring plenty
„ Be sure to register at the police station in Lofung and let them know your whereabouts.
Should something go wrong during the crossing, at least some officials will know about it.
Solomons is a pretty cool way of travelling, to keep yourself entertained as freighter
especially if you have no concern for time. ‘schedules’ are unreliable due to delays in
„ Never do this crossing in bad weather. Unless you take a cruise, the only certainties loading/unloading cargoes. If freighters load
„ Bring waterproof bags to secure your passport, money and camera gear, as well as a raincoat. of travelling this way are that you’ll have a (or expect to load) dangerous cargo such as
The boats that ply this route have no roof so you’re exposed to the elements. truly memorable, exotic experience, and you’ll petrol, they will not accept passengers.
„ Bring water, food and sunscreen. spend a lot of time sitting under palm trees If you don’t have time to sit around waiting,
waiting for your freighter, banana boat, luxury there are regular passenger services linking
yacht or outrigger canoe to finally set sail. But the island provinces with Lae and, to a lesser
their international ticket (so don’t forget Following is a summary of other deals. hey, life could be worse. extent, Madang.
it). This is the only discount available if If these tickets are purchased outside PNG The main ways of getting around by sea Several boats have recently started sched-
you’re buying the ticket outside PNG; it’s they’re GST-exempt. Some are not applicable are by large boats, small boats, charters and uled services to the islands of Milne Bay (see
valid year-round. at peak times such as Christmas and Easter. yacht crewing. p113), making those more accessible than they
 316 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t
have been for years. There are no passenger
vessels linking the north and south coasts or
any running along the south coast.
The main operators along the north coast
and to the islands are Lutheran Shipping (%472
2066 in Lae, 852 2577 in Madang, fax 852 3641; luship.madang
@global.net.pg) and Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships;
%982 1070/1071, fax 982 1955 in Rabaul; rabship@star
ships.com.pg). Based in Lae, Lutheran Shipping
has a virtual monopoly on passenger shipping
along the north coast. Boats run at least once
a week from Lae to Oro Bay, Finschhafen,
Madang, Kimbe and Rabaul. From Rabaul
TRANSPORT
there are regular boats to Kavieng and
Manus. Schedules are released at the end of
the month for the following month, and you
can only make a booking once the sched-
ule is out. Even then, the departure is far
from guaranteed.
Some boats carry cargo and passengers and
have tourist class (air-conditioned seats and
berths) and deck class (air-vented seats and
berths). Deck class can get crowded; both
classes have video ‘entertainment’ and it’s
worth avoiding bunks near the video. There
sometimes are simple snack bars which might
be just someone with soft drinks in a cooler
and a carton of kundu crackers. Students are
sometimes entitled to discounts.
In the Solomons cargo ships leave Honiara
in all directions and it’s best to ask at the
wharf or check at the Marine Office (%21609)
to see what’s going. Wings Shipping (%22811 in
Honiara) services Western Province and Malaita,
Transwest Shipping (%60240, fax 60421 in Gizo) goes
to Western Province and Choiseul, and Isabel
Development Corporation (%22126, fax 22009 in
Honiara) goes to Santa Isabel.
Passenger Boats
In the Solomons two relatively new vessels –
fast, clean and efficient – are making a big dif-
ference to inter-island travel and for the first
time ‘Sol Air’ has some competition. The MV
Pelican Express and MV Solomons Express (%28104,
28064; elite@solomon.com.sb) have bucked the trend
of the slow and smelly diesel freighters that
have been sailing between Solomons’ waters
for ages. They run between Honiara, Malaita
and Western Province.
Small Boats
In addition to the freighters and passenger
boats, local boats and canoes go literally every-
where. For these you have to be in the right
lonelyplanet.com
place at the right time but, with patience, you
could travel the whole coastline by village
hopping in small boats.
Trade boats – small, wooden boats with
thumping diesel engines – ply the coast, sup-
plying trade stores and acting as ferries. They
are irregular but if you’re prepared to wait,
they can get you to some off-the-track places.
Don’t expect comfort, bring your own food
and make sure the operator is trustworthy
before you commit yourself to a day or two
aboard. If you’re in a major centre, such as
Alotau, ask around the port and at the big
stores, which might have a set schedule for
delivering supplies to the area’s trade stores.
Negotiate the fee before you leave.
For shorter distances, there are dinghies
with outboard motors, often known as speed-
ies or banana boats. These are usually long
fibreglass boats that leap through the waves
and are bone-jarringly uncomfortable. The
cost of running outboard motors makes them
expensive if you have to charter one, but there
will often be a PMV boat (a public transport
boat; see p318) with reasonable fares – about
K20 to K30 per hour’s travel. Note, banana
boats are no fun at all when the wind picks
up and the open seas should be avoided. And
the wind can pick up with little warning. We
did a trip once returning from the Duke of
Yorks back to Kokopo. The weather looked
fine when we left but pretty soon the boat’s
pilot was zigzagging around the crests of 3m
waves and we were wet to the bone – it was
genuinely terrifying! People die reasonably
frequently in open-sea banana-boat crossings;
try to stay within sight of shore.
For shorter distances, such as from Tufi to
the surrounding villages, you might take an
outrigger canoe and will be expected to assist
with the paddling.
Yacht Crewing
While there are thriving yacht clubs located
in Port Moresby (www.rpyc.com.pg), Lae (%472
4909; laeyacht@global.net.pg), Wewak (%856 2708),
Rabaul (%982 1299; rabaulyc@global.net.pg), Honiara
(%22500) and Gizo (%76004; (www.gizoyachtclub
.com.sb), in practice it’s very hard to get a crew-
ing berth on a yacht even if you have some
experience. Yachties are sometimes looking
for people to share costs and for the com-
pany. You could try contacting the yacht
clubs directly or try the bulletin boards at
www.noon site.com.
lonelyplanet.com
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Driving yourself around PNG and/or the
Solomon Islands is not really a viable way of
travelling. PNG really only has one road – the
Highlands Hwy – that connects two or more
places you might want to visit, and in the
Solomons you need no more explanation than
the ‘Islands’ part of the country’s name.
In PNG it’s pointless bringing your own
vehicle as even a dirt bike would need to be
shipped between many locations due to the
lack of roads. The same applies to buying a
vehicle; it’s not worth the hassle.
You could, however, hire a car or 4WD in
Lae or Madang for the trip up the Highlands
Hwy, or perhaps to drive around New
Ireland. All the major cities have an array of
car-hire companies.
Driving Licence
Any valid overseas licence is OK for the first
three months you’re in PNG. International
driving permits are accepted in the Solomons,
as are most driving licences. People drive on
the left-hand side.
Fuel & Spare Parts
Fuel can be hard to find and is expensive. In
PNG a litre of petrol costs K3.30, while diesel
is K3.90 per litre in cities, but expect prices to
rise dramatically once you leave town. As for
spare parts, start praying.
Hire
Four-wheel drives can be hired in most PNG
cities, including on the islands, and in Lae
and Port Moresby you can hire a plain old car.
You must be 25 to hire a car and have either a
credit card or K2500 cash as a deposit. Hiring
anything will cost you an arm and probably
both legs, and the rates are even higher when
you add the per-km charges, insurance and
tax. For example, a compact car (the cheapest
option) costs from K175 per day, plus K0.80
per kilometre, plus 10% VAT, plus any fee for
personal insurance. A 4WD is about K250
per day plus K1.35 per kilometre. Probably
the cheapest way of hiring is with an accom-
modation and car-rental package; Coral Sea
Hotels (www.coralseahotels.com.pg) and Budget do
some good deals.
One-way rentals are available at locations
along the Highlands Hwy. The following com-
panies have offices around PNG; see destina-
tion chapters for details.
G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e 317
Avis (%324 9400; www.avis.com.pg)
Hertz (%302 6822; sales@leasemaster.com.pg)
Travel-Car (%323 9878; queenemmalodge@daltron
.com.pg)
The Solomon Islands has less than 1500km
of roads. Cars can be hired in Honiara, but
nowhere else.
Insurance
Most hire companies supply full insurance as
standard in their rental agreements, but be
sure to ask before you drive off. This is par-
TRANSPORT
ticularly important as some travel insurance
policies don’t cover driving off-road.
Road Conditions
Perhaps the most pertinent point about the
roads in PNG is that there aren’t very many.
Port Moresby, for example, is not linked by
road to any other provincial capital except
Kerema, and that road is subject to seasonal
difficulties. The most important road is the
Highlands Hwy, which runs from Lae to Lake
Kopiago, via Goroka, Mt Hagen and Tari.
Madang is also connected to the highway
via the Ramu Hwy. In 2008 the long-antici-
pated Southern Highlands Gulf Highway will
connect Kikori in the Gulf Province to the
Highland Highway near Mendi.
The road conditions are variable, to say
the least. Many are full of potholes and only
passable by 4WD, and only then in the dry.
Others are recently sealed all-weather affairs.
If you’re planning on getting out of the towns,
a 4WD is a necessity.
Road Hazards
Roads in PNG come with a range of hazards.
There is the deterioration factor: many are
becoming almost impassable due to lack of
maintenance. There’s the wet-season factor:
it rains, you get bogged. And then there’s that
one you can’t do much about: the raskol (ban-
dit) factor. Your chances of being held up are
admittedly quite slim, but it’s worth reading
the Dangers & Annoyances section (p291) for
tips on what to do if it happens to you.
Bear in mind the tourist office’s recom-
mendations if you are involved in an accident:
don’t stop, keep driving and report the acci-
dent at the nearest police station. This applies
regardless of who was at fault or how serious
the accident (whether you’ve run over a pig
or hit a person). Tribal concepts of pay back

318 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g
apply to car accidents. You may have insur-
ance and you may be willing to pay, but the
local citizenry may well prefer to take more
immediate and satisfying action.
Road Rules
Cars drive on the left side of the road. The
speed limit is 60km/h in towns and 80km/h
in the country. Seat belts must be worn by the
driver and front-seat passengers. Most cars
won’t have seat belts in the back.
HITCHING
TRANSPORT
Hitching is an important part of travelling in
the region. The lack of scheduled transport
means jumping onto a bus, truck, tractor,
outrigger, freighter, plane – or whatever else
is going your way – is a time-honoured way
of getting around. You’ll often be expected to
pay the equivalent of a PMV fare. If your bag
is light, it’s also sometimes possible to hitch
flights at small airports.
Keep in mind that hitching is never entirely
safe in any country. Travellers who decide to
hitch are taking a small but potentially serious
risk, and solo women should absolutely not
hitch in PNG or the Solomon Islands. People
who choose to hitch will be safer if they travel
in pairs and let someone know where they are
planning to go.
LOCAL TRANSPORT IN URBAN AREAS
Local transport is not particularly sophisti-
cated in PNG and the Solomons. The vast ma-
jority of trips are made by minibuses known
as PMVs (public motor vehicles), though in
a few places you’ll find more exotic means of
transport, such as outrigger canoes for getting
around Tufi or dugout canoes for paddling
between villages on the Sepik River. They op-
erate on the same principal as a PMV; they’re
cheap and leave when full.
A few (and only a very few) towns and
islands rent battered bikes to travellers for a
few kina a day.
Minibus (PMV)
In most urban areas a fleet of minibuses,
universally known as PMVs, provides pub-
lic transport along a network of established
routes. Stops are pre-determined and are often
indicated by a yellow pole or a crowd of wait-
ing people. You can’t just ask to be let off
anywhere. The destination will be indicated
by a sign inside the windscreen or called out
lonelyplanet.com
by the driver’s assistant, aka ‘conductor’, in a
machine-gun-style staccato.
PMVs have a crew of two: the driver, who
usually maintains an aloof distance from the
passengers; and the conductor, who takes fares
and copes with the rabble. On most occasions,
the conductor sits in the seat nearest the door,
so when the PMV stops, he’s the man to ask
about the destination. If it’s heading in the
right direction and there’s a centimetre or two
of spare space, you’re on. Don’t be surprised if
you have to wait for your change; it will come
when the conductor gets his change sorted.
If you tell the conductor where you want
to go he’ll let the driver know when to stop.
In town, PMVs usually cost 70t per trip,
irrespective of length.
Taxi
Considering PNG’s reputation for noctur-
nal danger, it’s surprising there are not more
taxis. Port Moresby and Alotau have plenty
and there are two in Vanimo. That’s it. Lae,
Wewak, Madang, Popondetta, Goroka and
Mt Hagen have no taxis, making it difficult to
get around after dark when you don’t want to
be walking. To fill the gap, hotels often have
minibuses that will run you around.
If you do manage to get a taxi you’ll find
most of them are complete clunkers – wind-
screens that look like road maps, broken
seats, smelly drivers, no radios. Prices aren’t
excessive (starting at about K5 and averag-
ing about K2 per kilometre) but you’ll have
to negotiate the fare before you get in, and
don’t expect to be offered change when you
get out. The one shining exception is Scarlet
Taxis (%323 4266) in Port Moresby, where the
cars and drivers are (mostly) clean and well-
kept, there is a radio dispatch network and
the meters work.
In the Solomons, Honiara has plenty of
taxis and Gizo and Auki have a few.
PMV
PMV is the generic term for any type of public
transport and wherever there are roads, there
will be PMVs. Whether it’s a dilapidated mini-
bus, a truck with two facing wooden benches,
a tractor in the Solomons, a pick-up with no
seats whatsoever but space in the tray, or any
other means of transport (boats are also re-
ferred to as PMVs), the PMV is one of the keys
to travelling cheaply in PNG. It’s also one of
the best ways to meet local people.
lonelyplanet.com
There’s no real science to using PMVs; just
turn up at the designated departure point
and wait for it to fill up. Many rural routes
have only one service a day so ask around
a day ahead for the intelligence on when
it leaves and from where (usually the local
market). It might also save you waiting for
hours as most PMVs start in one town very
early in the morning, drive to another (usu-
ally larger) town, then wait a couple of hours
while the morning’s passengers go to market
before returning.
Out of town you can assume that anything
with lots of people in it is a rural PMV. The
conductor will tell you where it’s headed and
take your money, usually at or just before the
end of the trip. If you want to get off before
the end, just yell ‘stop driver!’. Market days
(usually Friday and Saturday) are the best days
for finding a ride. On secondary roads, traffic
can be thin, especially early in the week.
Most of the time, travelling in a PMV is
perfectly safe; your fellow passengers will be
most impressed you’re with them and not in
some expensive 4WD. There is, of course, a
risk of robbery, especially on the Highlands
Hwy. Lone women travellers are also at greater
risk and should think twice about travelling
by PMV. If you do, find a vehicle with women
passengers and get a seat nearby.
Costs
PMVs are refreshingly cheap. For example,
from Lae to Madang costs K40; from Madang
to Goroka is K40 and Mt Hagen to Madang
is K60. Remember that oil price fluctuations
affect the whole world…not just the price of
fuel in your home town.
TOURS
From rough-and-ready village tours to
luxury-lodge and cruise-boat affairs, there
is a PNG tour to suit almost everyone. Of
© Lonely Planet Publications
G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T o u r s 319
particular interest are the specialist tours
catering to those with a penchant for watch-
ing wildlife, bird-watching, trekking and
village-based tours. Smaller operators are
usually cheaper and offer a more personal
experience, though not necessarily a better-
organised trip – try to contact them before
coming to PNG and allow a couple of weeks
organisation time.
The following companies have good repu-
tations. For tours of the Kokoda Track, see
p93, and for bigger companies, see p311.
Paradise Adventure Tours (%542 1696; www
TRANSPORT
.paradisetours.com.pg) This Mt Hagen-based operation has
had good feedback on its Highlands, Sepik and bird-
watching tours. Good value.
PNG Frontier Adventures (%856 1584/1400; www
.pngfrontieradventures.com) These guys are Sepik experts.
They can provide everything from a single guide to a full-
blown tour. Recommended.
PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; png.gold@global
.net.pg) A range of Highlands tours organised by the
friendly Norman Carver, including climbs of Mt Wilhelm.
PNG Trekking Adventures (%325 1284; www.png
trekkingadventures.com) This operator offers the usual
Kokoda Track fare, but also some interesting guided treks
up Mt Wilhelm, the Wilhelm–Madang walk, the Black Cat
Track and a Milne Bay War History walk.
Sepik Adventure Tours (%856 2525; www.ambunti
lodge-sepiktour.com.pg) Alois Mateos has vast experience
and knowledge of the Sepik and can arrange all manner of
tours. A genuinely nice guy.
WALKING
The best and cheapest way to come to grips
with PNG is to walk (see p288). With a judi-
cious mix of walks, canoes, PMVs, coastal
ships and the odd plane, PNG can change
from a very expensive country to a reasonable
one. Accommodation and food is normally
available in the villages – meaning floor space
and sago or sweet potato. See p284 for infor-
mation on staying in villages.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
320
Health Dr Michael Sorokin
CONTENTS
Before You Go
Insurance
Recommended Vaccinations
Medical Checklist
Internet Resources
Further Reading
In Png & Solomon Islands
Availability & Cost of Health Care
Infectious Diseases
Traveller’s Diarrhoea
Environmental Hazards
Traditional Medicine
With sensible precautions and behaviour, the
health risks to travellers in Papua New Guinea
and Solomon Islands are low. Mosquito-
transmitted disease is the main problem. The
countries share two serious health hazards:
HEALTH
malaria and saltwater crocodiles. The region
is rabies-free.
Both countries lie in the tropics and are
under-resourced in terms of medical in-
frastructure. Although steadily improving,
overall standards of health and healthcare
are not good.
BEFORE YOU GO
Prevention is the key to staying healthy while
abroad. See your dentist before departing,
carry a spare pair of contact lenses and
glasses, and take your optical prescription
with you. Bring medications in their origi-
nal, clearly labelled, containers. A signed and
dated letter from your physician describing
your medical conditions and medications,
including generic names, is also a good idea.
If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to
have a physician’s letter documenting their
medical necessity or obtain a prepared pack
from a travel health clinic.
INSURANCE
If your health insurance doesn’t cover you
for medical expenses abroad, consider sup-
plemental insurance. Find out in advance
if your insurance plan will make payments
directly to providers or reimburse you later
for overseas health expenditures. (In PNG
and Solomon Islands, most doctors expect
320 payment in cash.)
320 Check whether your insurance covers
320 evacuation to the nearest major centre (eg
320 Brisbane) – the extra premium is not usually
321 inordinately expensive.
321
321 RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
321 The World Health Organisation (WHO)
322 recommends that all travellers be covered
323 for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps,
324 rubella and polio, regardless of their destina-
326 tion. Since most vaccines don’t produce im-
munity until at least two weeks after they’re
given, visit a physician at least six weeks
before departure.
MEDICAL CHECKLIST
It is a good idea to carry a medical and first-
aid kit with you. Following is a list of items
you should consider packing.
acetaminophen (paracetamol) or
aspirin*
adhesive or paper tape
anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen)
antibacterial ointment (prescrip-
tion only, eg Bactroban) for cuts and
abrasions
antibiotic plus steroid eardrops (pre-
scription only, eg Sofradex, Kenacort
otic)
antibiotics (prescription only), eg cip-
rofloxacin (Ciproxin) or norfloxacin
(Utinor, Noroxin)
antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg loperamide)
antihistamines (for hay fever and allergic
reactions)
antigiardia tablets (prescription only, eg
tinidazole)
antimalaria pills
bandages (including a long compression
bandage), gauze, gauze rolls, waterproof
dressings
DEET-containing insect repellent for the
skin
iodine tablets (for water purification)
oral rehydration salts (eg Gastrolyte,
Diarolyte, Replyte)
lonelyplanet.com I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • Av a i l a b i l i t y & C o s t o f H e a l t h C a re 321
Permethrin-containing insect spray for
clothing, tents and bed nets
pocketknife**
scissors, safety pins, tweezers**
steroid cream or hydrocortisone cream
(for allergic rashes)
sun block
syringes and sterile needles, and intra-
venous fluids if travelling in very remote
areas
thermometer
*Aspirin should not be used for fever; it can
cause bleeding in cases of dengue fever.
**Not in carry-on luggage.
If you are travelling more than 24 hours away
from a town area consider taking a self-di-
agnostic kit that can identify, from a finger
prick, malaria in the blood.
INTERNET RESOURCES
There is a wealth of travel health advice on
the internet. For further information, the
Lonely Planet website (lonelyplanet.com) is a good
place to start. The World Health Organisation
publishes a superb book called International
Travel and Health, which is revised annually
and is available online at www.who.int/ith at
no cost.
Other websites of general interest are MD
Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), which pro-
vides complete travel health recommendations
for every country, updated daily, also at no
cost; the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
(www.cdc.gov); Fit for Travel (www.fitfor travel.scot.nhs
.uk), which has up-to-date information about
outbreaks and is very user-friendly; and
www.traveldoctor.com.au, which is a similar
Australian site.
It’s also a good idea to consult your govern-
ment’s travel health website before departure,
if one is available:
Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/)
Canada (www.hc-sc.gc.ca/pphb-dgspsp/tmp-pmv/pub
_e.html)
UK (www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/index.htm)
USA (www.cdc.gov/travel/)
FURTHER READING
Good options for further reading in-
clude Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children
by Cathy Lanigan, and Healthy Travel
Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific by Dr
Isabelle Young.
IN PNG & SOLOMON
ISLANDS
AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE
The quality of health care varies over the
region and within each country. In the main
centres – Port Moresby and Lae (PNG) and
Honiara (Solomon Islands) – you can expect
primary care of a high standard that is limited
by the lack of access to sophisticated labora-
tory and radiological procedures. Specialists
in internal medicine, surgery and obstetrics/
gynaecology are also available in these centres,
while in Port Moresby there are also paediat-
ric, orthopaedic and psychiatric specialists.
In secondary centres, eg Madang (PNG)
and Gizo (Solomon Islands), the quality
of service can be lower – often because of
lower-quality diagnostic and treatment
facilities. Small hospitals, health centres
and clinics are well-placed throughout
these centres but staffing and facilities will
vary. Intergovernmental or church mis-
sion aid and doctors may be in some of
HEALTH
these facilities.
Private medical practitioners will usually
expect payment in cash. Consultation fees
for a general practitioner are often slightly
less than those charged in a Western country.
Where hospital facilities (government or
private) exist, a cash deposit will be re-
quired. In the Solomons, payment by credit
card to a government institution may not be
accepted. Public hospital outpatient services
are free or of negligible cost, but apart from
serious emergencies waiting time can be
very long.
Commonly used drugs, including oral
contraceptives and antibiotics, are available
in the main centres where there are private
pharmacies, but do not expect large supplies.
If necessary, special drugs can be flown in.
For diabetics, it may not be possible to ob-
tain exactly the type of insulin preparation or
drug that you are using and, although alterna-
tives will be available, it is much safer to have
enough of your own supply. The more up-to-
date antiepileptics and antihypertensives may
also be hard to find.
Tampons and pads can be easily ob-
tained in major centres. In smaller centres
they may have been sitting on the shelf for
some time.
 322 I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a 323

Private dentists practice in Port Moresby.
Elsewhere, limited government dental serv-
ices may be available.
Medical help will be available within a
day’s journey. Self-medication for minor
skin infections or cuts and for simple di-
arrhoea is reasonable. In the case of fever
in a malarious area it is always best to try
and rule malaria out. If you don’t have a
diagnostic kit (which is not foolproof any-
way), almost all clinics will have the ability
to do a blood-smear check. Your medical
adviser may have decided to prescribe self-
treatment medication for malaria rather than
preventive antimalarials, in which case you
should still try to get an accurate diagnosis
and certainly get to a major medical centre
for treatment.
The region is generally not an ideal
holiday destination for a pregnant woman.
Malaria can cause miscarriage or premature
labour and prevention cannot be guaranteed
even when taking antimalarials. As far as
vaccinations are concerned, the three rec-
ommended ones (for hepatitis A, hepatitis
HEALTH
INFECTIOUS DISEASES
Dengue Fever
Dengue fever is spread through mosquito bites.
It causes a feverish illness with headache and
severe muscle pains similar to those experi-
enced with a bad, prolonged attack of influenza.
There might also be a fine rash. Mosquito bites
should be avoided whenever possible – always
use insect repellents. Self-treatment includes
paracetamol, fluids and rest. Danger signs are
prolonged vomiting, blood in the vomit, and/or
a blotchy dark red rash. Dengue fever is not a
danger in the Highlands.
Filariasis
Also known as elephantiasis, filariasis (found
only in the Solomon Islands) is another
mosquito-transmitted disease. It can cause
a fever with lymph gland enlargement, and
prolonged exposure (over a period of months)
can lead to chronic limb swelling. Though
rare, it hasn’t been eliminated and is another
reason for anti-mosquito precautions. It’s
treated with the drugs albendazole or iver-
mectin. These drugs are used by governments
avoidance of alcohol. The vaccine is almost
100% protective.
Hepatitis B
Like hepatitis A, hepatitis B is a virus causing
liver inflammation, but this virus is more seri-
ous and often progresses to chronic liver dis-
ease and even cancer. It is spread, like HIV, by
mixing body fluids through sexual intercourse,
contaminated needles and accidental blood
contamination. Treatment is complex and spe-
cialised but vaccination is highly effective.
HIV/AIDS
HIV infection is on the rise in the whole
region of West Melanesia. Government re-
ports usually underestimate the extent of the
problem, so when the international confer-
ences discuss the incidence reaching epidemic
proportions you can take it that the danger of
unprotected sex is huge. Condom use is essen-
tial. If you require an injection for anything
check that a new needle is being used or have
your own supply.
DRINKING WATER
To prevent diarrhoea, a sensible precaution
is to avoid tap water unless it has been
boiled, filtered or chemically disinfected
(with iodine tablets) and to steer clear of
ice. The municipal water supply in capital
cities in both countries, and in the majority
of towns in PNG, can be trusted. If you’re
trekking, drink only from streams at a higher
altitude than nearby villages – local guides
know which water is safe.
ical insect repellents, knockdown insecticides
and, where necessary, bed nets impregnated
with permethrin) and taking antimalarial
drugs before, during and after risk exposure.
No antimalarial is 100% effective.
Malaria causes various symptoms but the
essence of the disease is fever. In a malarious
zone it is best to assume that fever is due to
malaria unless blood tests rule it out. This ap-
plies up to a few months after leaving the area
as well. Malaria is curable if diagnosed early.

Japanese B Encephalitis

HEALTH
B and typhoid fever) do not contain live in periodic mass-treatment campaigns, and
organisms so are not a problem, but the long-stay expats who are offered this would This disease, found in the southern region of Typhoid Fever
mumps/measles/rubella vaccine does con- PNG including Port Moresby, but excluding Sporadic in the region, typhoid fever is a bac-
be wise to accept.
tain live virus material and should not be the Highlands, is a serious virus transmitted by terial infection acquired from contaminated
given during pregnancy. Also, because of mosquitoes. Early symptoms are flu-like and food or water or both. The germ can be trans-
Hepatitis A this is usually as far as the infection goes, but mitted by food handlers and flies, and can be
possible allergic reactions, Japanese B en- Hepatitis A is a virus causing liver inflam-
cephalitis vaccination is not recommended sometimes the illness proceeds to cause brain present in inadequately cooked shellfish. It
mation. Fever, debility and jaundice (yellow causes fever, debility and late-onset diarrhoea.
during pregnancy. colouration of the skin and eyes, together with fever (encephalitis), which has a high death
rate. There is no specific treatment. Effective Untreated it can produce delirium and is oc-
Travel with children can present special dark urine) occur and recovery is slow. Most
vaccination is available (involving three costly casionally fatal, but the infection is curable
problems. In tropical climates, dehydration people recover completely over time but it
inoculations over a month). Allergic and sensi- with antibiotics. Vaccination is moderately
develops very quickly when a fever and/or can be dangerous to people with other forms
tivity reactions to the vaccine, though rare, can effective but care with eating and drinking is
diarrhoea and vomiting occur. Malaria is of liver disease, the elderly and sometimes to
occur. Vaccination is usually recommended for equally important.
much more dangerous to children than to pregnant women in their third trimester. It is
adults, as is dengue fever. Insect repellents spread by contaminated food or water. Self- anyone staying more than a few weeks and/or
are essential. going to work in villages. Yaws
treatment consists of rest, a low-fat diet and This is a bacterial infection found in Solomon
Malaria Islands that causes multiple skin ulcers. It was
Malaria, found in all areas of PNG below thought to have been eliminated, but there
REQUIRED & RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS 1000m, and in the Solomon Islands (except has been a recent resurgence. The infection
When travelling to PNG and the Solomon Islands, vaccination for yellow fever (and the certificate the outlying atolls and Honiara), is a parasite spreads via direct contact with an infected
to prove it) is required if you are entering from a yellow fever-endemic country. Vaccinations are infection transmitted by infected anopheles person. Treatment with penicillin produces
also recommended for hepatitis A, hepatitis B and typhoid fever. For PNG, it is also recommended mosquitoes. While these mosquitoes are re- a dramatic cure.
that some visitors are vaccinated against Japanese B encephalitis. garded as night feeders they can emerge when
All vaccinations can produce slight soreness and redness at the inoculation site, and a mild light intensity is low (eg in overcast conditions TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA
fever with muscle aches over the first 24 hours. These are less likely with hepatitis A inoculations under the jungle canopy or the interior of dark Diarrhoea is caused by viruses, bacteria or
and a little more common with hepatitis B and typhoid inoculations. Japanese B encephalitis huts). Both malignant (falciparum) and less- parasites present in contaminated food or
vaccine has been associated with allergic reactions that require an antihistamine. Yellow fever threatening but relapsing forms are present water. In temperate climates the cause is
vaccine is dangerous for anyone with an allergy to eggs and in about 5% of cases causes a flu- here. Since no vaccine is available you’ll have usually viral, but in the tropics bacteria or
like illness within a week of vaccination. to rely on mosquito-bite prevention (including parasites are more usual. If you develop di-
exposing as little skin as possible, applying top- arrhoea, be sure to drink plenty of fluids,
 324 I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s
preferably an oral rehydration solution (eg
Diarolyte, Gastrolyte, Replyte). A few loose
stools don’t require treatment, but if you start
having more than four or five stools a day, you
should take an antibiotic (usually a quinolone
drug) and an anti-diarrhoeal agent (such as
Loperamide). If diarrhoea is bloody, persists
for more than 72 hours or is accompanied
by fever, shaking, chills or severe abdominal
pain, seek medical attention.
Giardiasis
A parasite present in contaminated water,
giardia produces bloating as well as a foul-
smelling, persistent, although not ‘explo-
sive’, diarrhoea. One dose (four tablets) of
Tinidazole usually cures the infection.
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
Acute Mountain Sickness
Areas of PNG’s Highlands higher than
2500m, including Mt Wilhelm (4509m), are
high enough for acute mountain sickness
(AMS), or altitude sickness, to be a risk. Lack
of oxygen at high altitudes affects most peo-
HEALTH
ple to some extent. Less oxygen reaches the
muscles and the brain, requiring the heart
and lungs to compensate by working harder.
The major risk factor in AMS is the speed
with which you make your ascent. AMS is
a notoriously fickle affliction and can affect
even trekkers accustomed to high altitudes.
AMS has been fatal at 3000m, although
3500m to 4500m is the usual range.
Acclimatisation is vital and usually takes
from one to three days. Once you are accli-
matised to a given height you are unlikely to
get AMS at that height, but you can still suc-
cumb when you travel higher. If the ascent
is too high and too fast, your body’s com-
pensatory reactions may not kick into gear
fast enough.
Mild symptoms of AMS usually develop
during the first 24 hours. They tend to
be worse at night and include headache,
dizziness, lethargy, loss of appetite, nau-
sea, breathlessness, difficulty sleeping
and irritability. More serious symptoms
include breathlessness at rest, a dry irri-
tative cough (which may progress to the
production of pink, frothy sputum), severe
headache, lack of coordination (typically
leading to a ‘drunken walk’), confusion, ir-
rational behaviour, vomiting and eventually
unconsciousness.
lonelyplanet.com
TREATMENT
Treat mild symptoms by resting at the same
altitude until recovery, usually a day or two.
Take paracetamol or aspirin for headaches. If
symptoms persist or become worse, however,
immediate descent is necessary – even 500m
can help. The most effective treatment for se-
vere AMS is to get down to a lower altitude as
quickly as possible – any delay could be fatal.
The drugs acetazolamide (Diamox) and
dexamethasone are recommended by some
doctors for the prevention of AMS. However,
their use is controversial. While they can re-
duce the symptoms, they may also mask warn-
ing signs; severe and fatal AMS has occurred
in people taking these drugs. Drug treatments
should never be used to avoid descent or to
enable further ascent.
Bites & Stings
LAND CREATURES
Snakes (eg the death adder or highly venom-
ous taipan) seldom attack humans without
reason, so when walking in areas in PNG
where visibility is not clear (such as long grass,
leaf-covered ground or at night), be alert and
careful. Compression by pad and bandage
over the bite and immobilisation of the limb
with any form of splint is the first-aid treat-
ment. Victims should stay still unless there’s
no other option. Antivenins are usually avail-
able from major medical centres.
The redback (jockey spider) is a distinc-
tive small spider (known for the orange-red
stripe on its back) that can cause a very painful
bite with occasional generalised poisoning
heralded by marked sweating of the affected
limb, severe pain, weakness and vomiting.
An ice pack is useful as a first-aid measure.
An antivenin is available – check with local
village clinics.
Leeches are present in swampy jungle areas
and easily fix themselves onto skin. They aren’t
dangerous except to the rare person who may
be allergic. Liberal application of insect repel-
lent to skin, clothing and boots will prevent
leech infestation. Pulling a leech off the skin
may result in bleeding – it is better to induce
the leech to remove itself by applying an insec-
ticide (or burning it with a cigarette tip!).
MARINE CREATURES
Saltwater crocodile attacks, though rare, are
well recorded. Crocodiles can swim into tidal
rivers; heed local warnings.
lonelyplanet.com I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s 325
The notorious box jellyfish (seawasp) has
been recorded in the waters of the Torres
Straits, but much more common are the
whip-like stings from the blue-coloured Indo-
Pacific man o’ war. If you see these floating in
the water or stranded on the beach it is wise
not to go into the water. The sting is very
painful and is best treated with vinegar or ice
packs. Do not use alcohol.
Poisonous cone shells abound along shal-
low coral reefs. Stings can be avoided by han-
dling the shell at its blunt end and by using
gloves. Stings mainly cause local reactions,
but nausea, faintness, palpitations or difficulty
in breathing are signs that flag the need for
medical attention.
Sea snakes may be seen around coral reefs.
They are extremely unlikely to attack and their
fangs will not penetrate a wetsuit.
Coral Ear
This is a common name for inflammation of
the ear canal. It is caused by water entering the
canal activating any fungal spores that may be
lying around predisposing to bacterial infection
and inflammation. It usually starts after swim-
ming but can be reactivated by water dripping
into the ear canal after a shower, especially if
long, wet hair lies over the ear opening.
It can be very, very painful and can spoil a
holiday. Apart from diarrhoea it is the most
common reason for travellers to consult a
doctor. Self-treatment with an antibiotic plus
steroid eardrop preparation is very effective.
Stay out of the water until the pain and itch
have gone.
Coral Cuts
Cuts and abrasions from dead coral cause
similar injuries to that from any other sort
of rock, but live coral can cause prolonged
infection. Never touch coral. If you do happen
to cut yourself on live coral, treat the wound
immediately. Get out of the water, clean the
wound thoroughly, getting out all the little
bits of coral, apply an antiseptic and cover
with a waterproof dressing.
Diving Hazards
Because the region has wonderful opportu-
nities for scuba diving it is easy to get over-
excited and neglect strict depth and time
precautions. Few dives are very deep but the
temptation to spend longer than safe amounts
of time at relatively shallow depths is great and
is probably the main cause of decompression
illness (the ‘bends’). Early pains may not be
severe and may be attributed to other causes,
but any muscle or joint pain after scuba diving
must be suspect. Keeping well hydrated helps
prevent the bends.
At the time of writing, privately run com-
pression chambers could be found at Port
Moresby and in Honiara, but transport to a
chamber can be difficult. Supply of oxygen
to the chambers is sometimes a problem.
Novice divers must be especially careful.
Even experienced divers should check with
organisations like Divers’ Alert Network (DAN;
www.danesap.org) about the current site and sta-
tus of compression chambers, and insurance
to cover costs.
Food
Only eat fresh fruits or vegetables if cooked or
peeled; be wary of dairy products that might
contain unpasteurised milk. Eat food that is
hot through and avoid buffet-style meals. Food
in restaurants that are frequented by locals is
not necessarily safe but most resort hotels have
HEALTH
good standards of hygiene, but individual food
handlers can carry infection. Food that is pip-
ing hot is usually safe. Be wary of salads.
Heat
This region lies within the tropics so it is hot
and for the most part humid.
Heat exhaustion is a state of dehydration
associated with salt loss. Natural heat loss
is through sweating so it is easy to become
dehydrated without realising it. Thirst is a late
sign. Heat exhaustion is prevented by drinking
at least 2L to 3L of water per day and more if
you’re very active. Salt-replacement solutions
are useful, as muscle weakness and cramps
are due to salt as well as water loss and can
be made worse by drinking water alone. The
powders used for treating dehydration due to
diarrhoea are just as effective when it is due to
heat exhaustion. Apart from commercial so-
lutions, a reasonable drink consists of a good
pinch of salt to a half-litre (pint) of water. Salt
tablets can result in too much salt being taken,
and can cause headaches and confusion.
HEAT STROKE
When the cooling effect of sweating fails,
heat stroke ensues. This is a dangerous and
emergency condition characterised by muscle
weakness, exhaustion and mental confusion.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
326 I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • T r a d i t i o n a l M e d i c i n e
Skin will be hot and dry. ‘Put the fire out’ by
cooling the body with water on the outside
and with cold drinks for the inside, then seek
medical help.
Sunburn
Exposure to the ultraviolet rays of the sun
causes burning of the skin with accompany-
ing pain and misery and the danger of skin
cancer. Cloud cover does not block out UV
rays. Sunburn is more likely a problem for
those taking Doxycycline as an antimalarial.
The Australian ‘slip, slop, slap’ slogan (slip on
a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat) is
a useful mantra. Treat sunburn with cool, wet
dressings. Severe swelling may respond to a
cortisone cream.
HEALTH
lonelyplanet.com
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
Treatments involving local herbs, roots and
leaves have evolved over centuries, with each
village having their own traditional healers.
Some of these folk remedies have effective
ingredients, and governments and research
institutions are researching many of them.
Claims such as AIDS cures and aphrodisiacs
can be ignored. Tree-bark concoctions for
fever are like aspirin. Chinese herbs are avail-
able in all of the main towns.
Buai, or betel-nut chewing is widespread
in PNG and Solomon Islands. It has an
astringent effect in the mouth but claims
about other healing properties remain
unproven. Prolonged use predisposes to
mouth cancers.

Language
CONTENTS
Who Speaks What Where? 327
Pijin (Solomon Islands) 327
Tok Pisin (PNG) 328
WHO SPEAKS WHAT WHERE?
After the national pidgins of Papua New
Guinea and the Solomons, English is the
most universally understood language, but
while it’s quite common in the cities and
large towns, in rural areas you’ll need some
basic pidgin in order to communicate.
Pidgins
Pidgins are very easy for English speakers
to get a handle on, and Solomons Pijin is
even easier in this regard than PNG Pijin.
The Solomons was a British territory and
their Pijin is derived solely from English,
whereas PNG Pijin has elements of German
and various tok ples (native tongue, literally
‘talk of your place’). PNG Pijin is closer to
Bislama (of Vanuatu) than it is to Solomons
Pijin, and Tok Pisin speakers are easily
understood in Vanuatu.
This language guide only includes phrases
in the pidgin of PNG, Tok Pisin, as it is
similar enough to Pijin for you to get by.
Listen closely to what people say, use your
English inventively, and you’ll find it easy to
communicate in both PNG and the
Solomons.
Papua New Guinea
More than 800 languages are spoken in
PNG – a whopping 12% of the world’s in-
digenous languages. Linguists divide these
languages into 14 major groups. Austro-
nesian languages are spoken by a sixth of
PNG’s people and dominate in the islands
and around the coast. Enga is spoken by
about 165,000 speakers in the Highlands
region, and is the most predominant spo-
ken native language (tok ples) in PNG.
Kuanua, spoken by East New Britain’s Tolai
people, has about 61,000 speakers.
© Lonely Planet Publications
327
Many Austronesian languages can be un-
derstood by non-native speakers (ie speak-
ers of other Austronesian PNG languages).
A disticntive feature of these languages is
that they usually have a number system
based on five. Various dialects in the High-
lands and Sepik regions are closely related,
non-Austronesian languages that can be
broadly understood across old clan bound-
aries.
In the early days of British New Guinea
and then Australian Papua, the local lan-
guage of the Port Moresby coastal area,
Motu, evolved into Police Motu, and was
spread through Papua by the native con-
stabulary. It’s still widely spoken in the
southern Papuan part of PNG and you can
easily pick up a Motu phrasebook in Port
Moresby. Motu are Polynesian descend-
ents, related to other Polynesians from else-
where in the Pacific.
Solomon Islands
Officially, there are 67 listed indigenous
languages and about 30 dialects in the Solo-
mon Islands. It is quite common for people
from villages separated by only a few kilo-
metres to speak mutually incomprehensible
languages. As a result, the national language
of the Solomons is Solomon Islands Pijin,
or Pijin for short.
PIJIN (SOLOMON ISLANDS)
LANGUAGE
Early 19th-century sailors stimulated the
evolution of Pijin. The recruitment of labour
(including Solomon Islanders) from the
1860s to 1900s to work in mines, and in
Oceanic canefields and plantations, spread
the language all over the Pacific. By the
1930s, Pijin was being spoken by mission-
aries in many areas, helping to spread it
further. While English is now the official
language of the administration, many
government staff use Pijin in everyday
conversation.
Solomon Islands Pijin – like similar
languages in PNG, Vanuatu, West Africa
and along the old China coast – has been
condemned by all and sundry, including
the UN. It has been called ‘baby talk’, a
‘bastard language’ and a ‘mongrel lingo’.
 328 L A N G UA G E • • T o k Pi s i n ( P N G ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • T o k Pi s i n ( P N G ) 329

Pijin speakers use two versions. One is a Note that p and f are virtually inter- Conversation & Essentials
simplified form used by islanders to their BILONG BLO HUSAT? changeable in both spelling and pronuncia- Hello. Gude.
English-speaking employers. The second is In PNG the possessive word bilong is used in tion, as are d and t, j and z. The combination Goodbye. Lukim yu.
the true Pijin, which they use among their almost every sentence. These days In every- kw represents the English ‘qu’. Vowels and Yes. Yes.
fellow countryfolk. Since the 1970s, lin- day usage it’s truncated to a simple ‘blo’ in diphthongs are pronounced clearly, even No. Nogat.
guists have been treating this version with both spoken and common written forms. when unstressed and at the end of a word. Please. Plis.
respect. ‘Bilong’ is still technically correct, but it’s Excuse me/Sorry. Sori.
rapidly becoming an archaic form. a as in ‘art’ Thank you (very Tenkyu (tru).
TOK PISIN (PNG) e as in ‘set’ much).
Tok Pisin (or as it has also been called, New i as in ‘sit’ How are you? Yu stap gut?
Guinea Pidgin English, Tok Boi, Neo- expressive language used in all areas of o as in ‘lot’ I’m well. Mi stap gut.
Melanesian) has its origins in the Pacific daily life, including the PNG parliament, u as in ‘put’ What’s your name? Wanem nem bilong yu?
labour trade. Between 1880 and 1914, education, churches and the media. It has ai as in ‘ais;e’ My name is ... Nem bilong mi ...
thousands of New Guineans worked for been a written language since the 1920s, au as the ‘ou’ in ‘house’ Where are you from? Ples bilong yu we?
periods of three years or more on the Ger- and although an official writing system ex- oi as in ‘boil’ I’m from ... Ples bilong mi ...
man plantations of Samoa, where Pidgin ists (used in the Nupela Testamen and What’s your job? Wanim kain wok bilong yu?
English had developed as the working lan- Wantok newspaper), non-standard spell-
Avoiding Confusion I’m (a/an) ... Mi ...
guage of a multicultural and multilingual Be wary of words that may sound similar to I (don’t) understand. Mi (no) save.
ings still abound. The most widely written
workforce. On returning to New Guinea, English but have a different meaning in More slowly please. Yu tok isi isi plis.
and spoken variety of Tok Pisin is that of Pidgin. For instance, kilim just means to hit
they took with them knowledge of this lan- the Madang region. Can you draw a map? Inap yu wokim/droim map?
guage. Pidgin English also became the lan- (hard); to kill somebody or something you I need help. Mi laikim sampela halp.
Most Tok Pisin words are of English have to kilim i dai.
guage of the plantations the Germans origin, but many words referring to local
established in coastal New Guinea and the Be careful of the sexual phrases – pusim
phenomena originate in local languages man/woman man/meri
islands of the Bismarck Archipelago, where means to copulate with, not to push. And
such as Tolai (spoken around Rabaul). Tok child pikinini
young men from the more remote interior while you can ple tenis (play tennis), ple is
Pisin speakers are tolerant of variation and relative wantok
and the Highlands were employed. Until also a euphemism for intercourse. A man’s
visitors will find the language invaluable trunk or suitcase may be a bokis, but a sister susa
very recently, the majority of Tok Pisin when they move away from the towns and brother brata
woman’s bokis is her vagina, and a blak
speakers had acquired their knowledge of want talk to Papua New Guineans socially. a little liklik
bokis is not a black suitcase but a flying fox
the language as part of their work experi- For a more detailed guide to the pidgin big bikpela
or bat!
ence away from their home village. languages of Oceania, including Solomon You’ll love the standard reply to ‘how far forbidden tambu
Tok Pisin has grown into a language with Islands Pijin and Tok Pisin, get a copy of is it?’: longwe liklik. It doesn’t actually mean
many functions, and is now learned as a Lonely Planet’s Pidgin Phrasebook. a long way or not a long way – it translates Directions
second language in most villages. For a The best places to look for books in Tok more like ‘not too near, not too far’. Where is ...? ... i stap we?
growing number of children in the big Pisin are the Christian bookshops in PNG; Straight ahead. Stret.
towns, it has become creolised (adopted as there is usually one in every town and they Accommodation Turn left/right. Tanim lep/rait.
their first language). The simple plantation have all sorts of literature, including, need- Do you have a single/double room? How far is it? Em i longwe o nogat?
language of the 1920s and 1930s has
LANGUAGE

Is transport

changed into the national language of inde-
pendent Papua New Guinea, and as such is
used regularly by more than two million
speakers, not only in former German New
Guinea, but also in former Papua.
The spread of Tok Pisin is due not so
much to deliberate policies (in fact both the
German and Australian governments op-
posed its use for quite some time), but its
perceived usefulness as a common language
in a country where more than 800 lan-
guages are spoken. Tok Pisin is the major
lingua franca of PNG, and even in very re-
mote villages it’s rare not to find someone
who speaks it.
Much maligned as a broken English,
bastard language or comic opera talk in
colonial days, Tok Pisin is a vibrant and
LANGUAGE
less to say, a Pidgin bible. Yu gat rum slip long wanpela/tupela man? I gat bas, teksi samting?
It is worthwhile buying the Wantok How much is it per night? available?
weekly newspaper, written entirely in Tok Em i kostim hamas long wanpela de?
Pisin. As well as being a decent newspaper, Can I see the room? behind bihain long
reading it is a good way to learn the lan- Inap mi lukim rum pastaim? in front of ai bilong
guage. There are also comic strips, which I like this room. near klostu
are easy to follow even for beginners. EmTV Mi laikim (tru) dispela rum. far longwe
broadcasts many programmes in Pidgin, Is there a mosquito net?
which will also help you pick it up. I gat moskita net i stap? Numbers
Where’s the toilet? 1 wan
Pronunciation Haus pekpek i stap we? 2 tu
Only a small number of Papua New Guin- I want to stay ... day(s). 3 tri
eans speak Tok Pisin as their first language Mi laik stap ... de. 4 foa
(about 100,000) and they are mainly in I’d like to check out today/tomorrow. 5 faiv
towns or non-traditional settlements. Sec- Mi laik bai mi lusim hotel tede/tumora. 6 sikis
ond language Tok Pisin speakers are often 7 seven
influenced in their pronunciation and Is there a ...? I gat rum ...? 8 et
grammar by the conventions of their bath/shower waswas (i stap) 9 nain
mother tongue. laundry bilong wasim (ol) klos 10 ten
 © Lonely Planet Publications
330 L A N G UA G E • • T o k Pi s i n ( P N G ) lonelyplanet.com

11 wanpela ten wan the market maket/bung

12 wanpela ten tu the police polis stesin
13 wanpela ten tri
14 wanpela ten foa Time & Dates
15 wanpela ten faiv When/At what time? Wanem taim?
16 wanpela ten sikis What time is it? Wanem taim nau?
17 wanpela ten seven It’s (eight) o’clock. Em i (et) klok.
18 wanpela ten et
19 wanpela ten nain morning moningtaim
20 tupela ten afternoon apinun
21 tupela ten wan evening (7 – 11) nait
22 tupela ten tu night (11 – 4) biknait
30 tripela ten today tede
40 fopela ten tomorrow tumora
50 faivpela ten yesterday asde
60 sikispela ten Sunday Sande
70 sevenpela ten Monday Mande
80 etpela ten Tuesday Tunde
90 nainpela ten Wednesday Trinde
100 wan handet Thursday Fonde
Friday Fraide
Shopping & Services Saturday Sarere
I’d like to buy ...
Mi laik baim ... Transport
How much is it? How much is it to ... ?
Hamas long dispela? Em i hamas long ... ?
What’s that? How long is the journey?
Wanem dispela? Hamas taim long go long ... ?
I’m just looking.
Mi lukluk tasol. I’d like a ... ticket Mi laik baim tiket long ...
That’s very cheap. to ...
Pe/Prais i daun (tru). one-way i go long tasol
Is that your lowest price? return go na i kambek
I gat seken prais?
I’ll take it. What time does Wanem taim ... i kamap?
Bai mi kisim. the ... arrive?
LANGUAGE

What time does the Long wanem taim neks ... i go?
I’m looking for ... Mi painim ... next ... leave?
a bank haus mani/benk boat bot
the church haus lotu bus bas
the hospital haus sik plane balus

Also available from Lonely Planet:

Pidgin Phrasebook
 © Lonely Planet Publications
331

Glossary
arse tanket – a bunch of tanket leaves stuck into a belt kumul – bird of paradise
to cover a man’s backside; also called arse gras (Highlands) kunai – grass, grassland
kundu – hourglass-shaped drum covered with lizard or
bagarap – broken; literally ‘buggered-up’ snake skin
bagi – red shell necklace used for trade in the kula ring kwik piksa leta – fax; literally ‘quick picture letter’
islands
balus – aeroplane laplap – sarong
banana boat – trade boat or dinghy liklik – small
baret – artificial channel or canal constructed across loops liklik haus – toilet; literally ‘small house’
in a river (Sepik) loloi – rolls of shell money strung on lengths of cane (East
bigman – important man, a leader New Britain)
bikpela – big, great lotu – religious service, worship
bilas – jewellery, decorations, finery lusim – to leave
bilum – string bag
boi – boy malangan – ritual of making totemic figures (also called
BRA – Bougainville Revolutionary Army (Solomon Islands) malangans) to honour the dead; also known as malagan
buai – betel nut masalai – spirit of the bush or water; a devil (East New
buk tambu – the bible Britain and New Ireland)
bukumatula – bachelor house (Trobriand Islands) masta – white adult male (colonial)
bekim moni – ‘payback’ or compensation money mausgras – beard, moustache, whiskers
buli – tinned (bully) beef MEF – Malaitan Eagle Force (Solomon Islands)
meri – wife, woman
dewel – devil misis – European woman
dim dims – white people missinari – missionary
diwai – wood moga – ceremony surrounding the giving away of goods
doba – leaf money (Milne Bay Province) to display one’s wealth (Highlands)
dobu – long house Motu – the indigenous people of the Port Moresby area;
dukduk – spirit and ritual costume the language spoken by these people
garamut – drum made from a hollowed log mumu – traditional underground oven
GRA – Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army (Solomon Islands) mwala – decorated armlets made from cone shells used
for trade in the kula ring islands
haus – house
haus sik – hospital nambawan – number one, the best
haus tambaran – spirit house natnat – mosquito
haus win – open-air structure like a gazebo; literally
‘house of wind’ OPM – Organisasi Papua Merdeka, or Free West Papua
Movement
inap – enough
payback – compensation paid for a wrongdoing, but in
kai bar – cheap takeaway food bar reprisal more than revenge
kaikai – food pikus tri – fig tree
karim leg – courting ceremony involving crossing legs pinis – finish
with a partner; literally ‘carry leg’ (Highlands) pis – fish
kastom – custom pisin – bird

G L OT AS BS A5 R Y
kaukau – sweet potato pitpit – wild sugar cane
kiap – patrol officer (of colonial origin) PMV – public motor vehicle
kina – unit of PNG currency; large shell traded from the pukpuk – crocodile
coast as an early form of currency
kokomo – hornbill bird raskol – bandit, criminal or thief
kula ring – ring of trading islands in Milne Bay Province ria – volcanic fjord, as found near Tufi
 332 GLOSSARY

rokrok – frog toea – unit of PNG currency (100 toea = 1 kina); a shell
saksak – sago necklace also used as currency
salvinia – (Salvinia molesta) weed found in many Tok Pisin – the Pidgin language
waterways Tok Ples – local language; first language; pronounced
save – understand, think ‘talk place’
singsing – celebratory festival/dance Tolai – the main inhabitants of East New Britain’s Gazelle
solwara – ocean, sea Peninsula, pronounced ‘tol-eye’
spia – spear tumbuan – large, feather-draped body mask
story board – narrative carving done on a wooden board tupela – two, both
susu – milk, breast turnim het – a courting ceremony involving rubbing
faces together, literally ‘turn head’ (Highlands)
tambaran – ancestral spirit; also called tambuan,
tabaran or tabuan voluntia – volunteer
tambu – forbidden or sacred; shell money (Tolai)
tapa – beaten bark cloth wantok – fellow clanspeople, kith and kin; literally ‘one
taro – tuberous root vegetable similar to a sweet potato talk’ or ‘one who speaks the same language’
tasol – that’s all, only
tee – ceremony where men give away goods to display yam – tuberous root vegetable similar to a sweet
their wealth (Enga) potato
GLOSSARY

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 © Lonely Planet Publications
340 Index (B-D) 341

Buin 245 Riba Cave 276 Umboldi Cultural Show 149

Index Buka 242-3

Buka baskets 47, 241-2
Buka Island 242-3
skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172
caving 286
cell phones 300
Wahgi Cultural Show 294
culture 33-47
ancestor worship 36
Buka Passage 242, 242 cemeteries bigmen 34, 35
See also GreenDex pp348-9. Aronis 147 bird-watching 207, 285 Bula Falls 135 Bagail Cemetery 229 bride price 36
ABBREVIATIONS artefacts 42, 47, 298-9, see also Bensbach 208 Bulldog Track 137 Bita Paka War Cemetery 218 initiation rites 36, 197
A ACT Australian Capital carvings Galahi Island 116 Bulolo 139-40 Bomana War Cemetery 83 Southern Highlands 170
Territory
Abel, Reverend Charles 86, 117 bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 Kimbe Bay 226 Buna 106 Lae War Cemetery 129-30 wantoks 37
NSW New South Wales
accommodation 282-5, see also Buka baskets 47, 241-2 Kiunga 206, 207 Bundi 149 Madang Cemetery 142 customs, food 66
NT Northern Territory
individual locations Highland hats 47, 81, 159, 167 Los Negros Island 239 bushwalking, see trekking, walking Peter ToRot’s cemetery & customs regulations 291
Qld Queensland
village stays 122, 235 masks 46, 228, 294, 7 Manus Island 239 business hours 290 memorial church 219 cycling 236, 315
SA South Australia
activities 285-9, see also individual nguzunguzus 46 Mt Hagen 169 Butaweng waterfalls 138 Centennial Hill 89
Tas Tasmania
activities pottery 45, 145-6, 198 Rennell 279 butterflies 51, 54, 105, 147 Central Province (PNG) 88-90, 86-7 D
Vic Victoria
acute mountain sickness 324 storyboards 45-6, 177, 198 Samarai Island 116 Butterfly Ranch 139 history 86-7 Dalom 236
WA Western Australia
Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft tapa cloth 44-5, 47, 137 Tari 173-4 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146 Central Province (Solomon Islands) Dampier, William 25, 150
wreck 245 arts 41-7, see also individual arts tours 173-4, 206, 285 Bwetalu village 122 261-3, 261 dance 43-4
agriculture 22-3 books 45 Tufi 108 Chambri Lakes 198-9 dangers 291-2
Ahus Island 239 Asaro mud men 159-60 Varirata National Park 83 C children, travel with 290 diving 325
Aibom 198 Aseki 140 Bita Paka War Cemetery 218 Calvados chain 123 Chimondo 198 hitching 318
air travel ATMs 297 Black Cat Track 137 camping 282 Chinatown 253 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296
airfares 308 Auki 276 blackbirding 26, 87, 227-8 cannibalism 23, 25 Choiseul 280 darts 156
airlines 306-7 Australian War Memorial (Alotau) 110 Blackwater Lakes 199 Anga people 201 Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201 Daru 205
airports 306-7 Avu Avu 261 Blue Lagoon Lookout 218 China Strait 116 Christmas Island 242 Daugo Island 76
history 312 boat travel 286, 315-16, see also laughing disease 161 Christopher Robinson Memorial 115 Daulo Pass 160
INDEX

INDEX
to/from PNG & Solomon Islands B canoes, rafting, sailing New Britain 212 cinema 42-3, see also films David Suzuki Trail 136
307-10 Baeroko Bay 265 Sepik River 191-3 New Ireland Province 228 climate 15, 290-1 de Bougainville, Louis 24-5
within PNG & Solomon Islands Baining people 213, 215 to/from PNG 311 canoes 316 global warming 53-4, 307 de Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro 23-4
312-15 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 to/from Solomon Islands 311 Cape Espérance 260 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142 dengue fever 322
Aitape 187 Bandit 149-50 Bobongara 138 Cape Moem 183 Connolly, Bob 42 D’Entrecasteaux Islands 116-18
Alexishafen 147 bandits, see raskols Bogia 147 Cape Wom International Memorial consulates 293 diarrhoea 323
Alotau 109-13, 110 Bargam 147 Bol 236 Park 183 coral cuts 325 disabilities, travellers with 301-2
Amboin 199 Basilisk Passage 76 Bolubolu 118 car travel 317-18 coral ear 325 diving 55-63, 286-7, 55, 5
Ambunti 194 baskets 47, 241-2 Boluminski Hwy 235-6 cargo cults 33, 34 cormorants 280 Gizo 63, 270-1
Amron 147 bathrooms 301 Bomana War Cemetery 83 Carteret, Captain Philip 24 costs 15-16 Guadalcanal 60
ancestor worship 36 bats 49, 142 Bonegi 259 carvings 45 crafts, see artefacts hazards 325
Anderson, Robin 42 Battle of Milne Bay 88 books 16, 17 buying carvings 298 Crater Mountain Wildlife Management Honiara 253
Anga people 127, 201 Battle of Wau 125 arts 45 Gogdala 46 Area 160 internet resources 62
Anganmai 199 Bau 137 birds 48, 49 Malangan 46, 228 credit cards 297 Kavieng 59, 230-1
Angoram 197-8 Beehives, the 219, 223 Bougainville 30 master carvers 46, 122, 191, 269 cricket 39, 121, 6 Kimbe Bay 59, 226
animals 48-52, see also individual Bellona 281 food 66 Sepik, the 177, 183, 195, 7 crocodiles 48, 208, 324 Kokopo 214-15
species Bellona Province 279-81 Kokoda Track 28, 103 Trobriand Islands 122 Crocodile Festival 194 live-aboard boats 57, 115
books 50, 51 Bensbach 208 travel 16 Wewak 183 cruises 315 Madang 56-7, 142-3
wildlife-watching 53, betel nut 35 wildlife 50, 51 cassowaries 48-9 Crystal Rapids 84 Marovo Lagoon 62-3, 267-8
289 Betikama 258-9 WWII 28 caves cults 33, 34, 36, 120 Milne Bay 58
April (Wara) River 198 bicycle travel, see cycling border crossings 310-11, 314 Benua Cave 241 cultural shows 10, 294, see also muck diving 57, 58, 107, 116, 286-7
Arawa 244 Bilbil 145-6 Botanical Gardens 129 burial caves 140 festivals Munda 61-2, 264
architecture 44 bigmen 34, 35 Bougainville 243-5 Kalopa Cave 120 Bargam Agricultural Show 147 Port Moresby 57, 76
area codes 300, see also inside front bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 books 30 Kantobo 172 Cameron Cultural Show 111 Rabaul 58, 220
cover Bird island 280 itineraries 20 Keu Caves 162 Goroka Show 158 Russell Islands 61
Arnarvon Islands 280 birds 48-51, see also individual Bougainville Revolution Army 29, 241, Loniu Cave 239 Hagita Cultural Show 111 Samarai Island 116
species 245, 314 Manubyai Cave 147 Kundiawa Simbu Show 294 Tawali 115
000 Map pages birds of paradise 50-1, 129, 173, Boulay, Franck 61 Octopus Cave 280 Morobe Show 131 Tufi 57, 107
000 Photograph pages 206, 207 Brahmin 149 Oketemp Cave 188 Mt Hagen Show 166 Tulagi 61, 262
books 48, 49 British East India Company 25 Oksapmin 188 Tufi Cultural Show 107 WWII sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253
 342 Index (D-H) Index (H-L) 343

documentaries 42 International Orchid Spectacular 76 Goilala region 90 Honiara 247-58, 252-3 Kaip village 169 Kokopo 213-18, 214
Doini Island 116 Kalam Culture Festival 149 golf accommodation 253-5 Kairiru Island 184 Koliwan, Moses 244
drinks 65 Mabarosa Festival 143 Lae 131 attractions 250 Kaisiga 120 Kolombangara 274
driving 317-18 Malagan Festival 231 Madang 143 diving 253 Kambaramba 198 Komate 261
Duke of York Group 224, 225 Milamala Festival 119 Port Moresby 76 drinking 256 Kambot 198 Konogogo 237
Dutch East Indies Company 24 Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Wewak 181 entertainment 256-7 Kamiali Wildlife Management Area Konos 236
Festival 111 Gona 106 food 255-6 136-7 Kontu 237
E PNG Coffee Festival 158 Goodenough Island 118 travel to/from 257 Kamina 204 Korogo 194
Earhart, Amelia 26, 128 Warwagira Festival 215 Goroka 156-9, 157 travel within 257-8 Kaminabit 196 Krangket Island 145
East Cape 113-14 yam festivals 184 Govermas 199 Hoskins 225 Kanabea 204 kula ring 117
East Islands 234-5 filariasis 322 Green Island 238 hotels 282-4, see also individual Kanganaman 195 Kuma 261
East New Britain Historical & Cultural films 17, 41, 42, see also cinema Green River 193 locations kangaroos, tree 50, 150 Kundiawa 161-2
Centre 214 Finschhafen 138-9 Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 Hula beach 90 Kangu Beach 245 kundu drums 43
East New Britain Province 213-25 First Contact 27, 42, 153 diving 60 Huli people 170, 173 Kantobo 172 kuru 161
East Sepik Province 178-85 fishing 287 Guinea Airways 312 Huli wigmen 173 Karavia Bay 218 Kwaibala Waterfall 276
Eastern Highlands Province Alotau 111 Gulf Province 201-4, 202-3 Huon Gulf coast 135-8 Karawari River 199 Kwaio people 278
156-61 Baia 227 gun run 314 Karkar Island 150-1 Kwato Island 116
Eastern Island Groups 238 Bensbach 208 Gwado 135 I Kau Rainforest Museum &
economy 12, 36-8 Daru 205 Gwale people 30, 249 Ialibu 171-2 Conservation Area 147 L
ecotourism 54 Honiara 253 Ihu 203-4 Kauage, Mathias 41, 45 Lababia 136
GreenDex 348-9 Kavieng 231 H Indabu 195, 198 Kavieng 229-34, 230 Labi Island 121
electricity 283 Kikori 204 Hansa Bay 148 independence 29 diving 59, 230-1 Labu Lakes 135
elephantiasis 322 Lae 131 Hanuabada 73 initiation rites 36, 197 kayaking 286 Labu Tali Conservation Area 135-6
embassies 293 Marovo Lagoon 268 haus tambarans 36, 44, 195 insurance Kavieng 229, 231 Lae 128-35, 130
emergencies, see inside front cover Ramata 268 headdresses 46 health 320 Loloata Island 90 accommodation 132-3
INDEX

INDEX
Enga Province 168-9 Flannery, Tim 48 head-hunting 23, 201, 228, travel 295 Marovo Lagoon 268-9 attractions 129
Enhanced Cooperation Program 13 Fly River 201, 204, 206 277 internet access 295 Kennedy Island 63, 271 festivals 131
Enoghae 265 flying foxes 49, 52, 140 health 320-6 internet resources 16-18 Kennedy, John F 27, 273 food 133
environment 48-54 Flynn, Errol 16, 22, 87 insurance 320 diving 62 Keram River 198 travel to/from 134
environmental issues 52-4 food 64-7, 294, see also individual internet resources 321 health 321 Kerema 202-3 travel within 134-5
global warming 53-4, 307 locations hepatitis A 322 music 43 Kieta 244 Lae War Cemetery 129-30
Marovo Lagoon 266 books 66 hepatitis B 323 WWII 27 Kikori 204 Laiagam 169
mining 52-3 customs 66 Hermit 240 Isabel 280 Kimbe 225-6 Laing Island 148
Sepik, the 177 football 39 Highlands, the 152-74, 154-5 Island Provinces 209-45, 210-11 Kimbe Bay 226 Lake Govermas 199
ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, 247, 249 Free West Papua Movement 30, 176 Eastern Highlands Province 156-61 itineraries 19-21 diving 59, 226 Lake Kopiago 174
events, see cultural shows, festivals frogs 50, 52 Enga Province 168-9 Kiriwina Island 119-23, 119 Lake Kutubu 172
exchange rates, see inside front fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106 Simbu Province 161-3 J Kitava Island 121 Lake Rau 169
cover Southern Highlands Province Jacquinot Bay 224 Kiunga 206-7 Laloki River Gorge 83
expatriates 38-9 G 169-74 Jais Aben 146-7 Kohinggo island 266 Langa Langa Lagoon 277-8
Gagidu Station 138 Western Highlands Province 163-8 James, Keith 231 Koitabu people 69 Langemack Bay 138
F Galahi Island 116 hiking, see trekking, walking Japanese B Encephalitis 323 Koki 73-4 language 327-30
fax services 300-1 garamuts 43, 45 Hiritano Hwy 84, 89-90 Japanese Barge Tunnels 218 Kokoda 105 food glossary 67
Feni Island 238 Garamut & Flute Festival 181 history 22-32, see also Kokoda Track, Japanese bases 106, 274 Kokoda Buna Historical Foundation Summer Institute of Linguistics
Fergusson Island 118 gay travellers 294-5 WWII Japanese Memorial Peace Park 180 106 160
festivals 294, see also cultural shows Gazelle Peninsula 212, 220, blackbirding 26, 87, 227-8 Japanese Observation Point 258 Kokoda Track 27, 91-105, 92-3, Lapita people 22, 212
Biang Ngayam Cultural Festival 218-19 German settlement 25 Japanese Peace Memorial 220 94-5, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, Lau Lagoon 278
131-2 geography 48 independence 29 jellyfish 325 103, 104 laughing disease 161
Crocodile Festival 194 German New Guinea Company 125, WWI 26 jewellery 46-7 books 28, 103 Lavongai (New Hanover) 234
Enga Festival 168 138, 176, 212, 240 hitching 318 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 history 27, 98-100 Leahy, Mick 27
Garamut & Flute Festival 181 German settlement 25 Hiti people 24 Kokoda Challenge 101 leatherback turtles 135, 136
Hiri Moale Festival 76 Ghizo Island 270-4 HIV/AIDS 323 K maps 93 leeches 324
giardiasis 324 holidays 295 Kaibola village 120 planning 91-5 legal matters 295-6
000 Map pages Gifu 258 Holupuru Falls 265 Kaileuna Island 120 travel to/from 95-6 Lelet Plateau 237
000 Photograph pages Gizo 270-3, 271 Holy Cross Catholic Cathedral 253 Kainantu 160-1 trekking companies 93-5 lesbian travellers 294-5
diving 63, 270-1 Hombrum Bluff Lookout 83 Kaintiba 204 Kokopau 244 Libba 236
 344 I n d e x ( L- N ) Index (N-S) 345

Lido 187 maps 296 Mt Bau 265 National Parliament 251 Popondetta 105-7 Rossel (Yela) Island 123
Lihir 238 Kokoda Track 93 Mt Bosavi 172-3 Ndoma 260 population 38-9 Rouna Falls 83
literature, see books Marau Sound 260 Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park 160 New Britain 212-27, 218-19 Port Moresby 68-84, 70-1 Roviana Lagoon 265
live-aboard boats 57, 115 Mariama 199 Mt Hagen 164-8, 164 East New Britain Province 213-25 accommodation 78-9 Ruaniu 260
logging 52, 54, 185, 266 markets Mt Kis Lookout 158 West New Britain Province 225-7 activities 76 Russell Islands 263
Lola island 265 Gizo 270 Mt Lamanai 118 New Ireland Province 227-38 attractions 73-6 diving 61
Loloata Island 90 Goroka 159 Mt Lamington 29, 106 newspapers 40, 283 Boroko 77
Loloho 244 Honiara 252 Mt Lunaman 130-1 Nggela Islands 261-2 diving 57, 76 S
Long Island 150 Koki 73 Mt Tambu 136 Ninigo 240 drinking 79-80 safe travel 291-2
Los Negros Island 239-40 Kokopo 214-15 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, 222, Nobonob 146 Ela Beach 75 diving 325
Louisade Archipelago 123 Mt Hagen 167 223, 8 Normanby Island 117-18 entertainment 80-1 hitching 318
Lutheran Mission 125 Port Moresby 81 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224 Noro 265 festivals 76 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296
Wewak 182-3 Mt Wilhelm 162-3 Northern Malaita Island 278 food 79-80 Saidowai village 118
M Marovo Lagoon 266-70, 267 muck diving 58, 286-7 North Solomons Province shopping 81 Saigara 137
MacGregor, Sir William 26 diving 62-3, 267-8 Samarai Island 116 240-5 tours 76 sailing 231, 234, 315
Madang 140-5, 141 masks 46, 228, 294, 7 Tufi 57, 107 Nusa Roviana 265 travel to/from 81-2 Sal Island 242
diving 56-7, 142-3 Mataniko Falls 258 mud men 159-60 travel within 82-3 Salamaua 136
Madang Province 140-51, Matupit Island 223 Munda 264 O Waigani 77 Salemben 147
126-7 May (Iwa) River 198 diving 61-2, 264 Obweria village 122 postal services 298 Salvinia molesta 177
history 125 Mbanbanakira 261 Murik Lakes 198 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146 pottery 45, 145-6, 198 Samarai Island 115-16
Madehas Island 242 McDonald’s Corner 83 Muschu Island 184 Ok Tedi Mine 205 printmaking 44-5 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178
Magendo 198 measures 283, see also inside front museums Oksapmin 174, 188 PT boats 108 Sandfly Passage 262
Magi Hwy 90 cover Betikama WWII museum 259 Omarakana 120 Putput 235 Sandline Affair 30, 241
magic practice 34, 35, 41, 278, see medical services 321-2, see also health East New Britain Historical & Ona, Francis 29, 30, 241 Sapeahora 204
also witchcraft Mekeo people 89 Cultural Centre 214 opening hours 290 Q Savo 262-3
INDEX

INDEX
Magiya 147 Mendam 198 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 Oro Bay 107 Queen Emma’s house 214 sea-kayaking 286
Maio 193 Mendi 170-1 Kau Rainforest Museum & Oro Province 105-8, 86-7 Sepik region 175-88
Makira-Ulawa 280 Menyamya 140 Conservation Area 147 history 86-7 R carvings 177, 183, 195, 7
Malaita Island 274-9 Messi 237 Madang museum 142 Rabaul 219-23, 220 East Sepik Province 178-85, 178
Malaita Province 274-9, 275 metric conversions, see inside front Munda WWII museum P diving 58, 220 environmental issues 177
Malalaua 204 cover 264 Pagwi 194 Rabaul Nakaia 224 initiation rites 197
Malangan 46 Milne Bay Province 109-23, 86-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) painting 44-5 radio 40, 283 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178
malaria 323 diving 58 75-6 Palambei 195 rafting 221, 224 Sepik River 188-99, 8
Malay people 23 Mindimbit 196 National Museum & Cultural Panguna 244 Rainforest Habitat 129 Lower Sepik 197-8, 196-7
Malinowski, Bronsilaw 118, 120 mining 36, 52 Centre (Honiara) 251 Paradise beach 89 Ramu River 148 Middle Sepik 194-7, 196-7
Malmaluan Lookout 219 Bougainville copper mine 12 New Guinea Club & Rabaul Parliament Haus 74-5 Ranongga 274 planning 189-90
Malolo 147 Ok Tedi Mine 205 Museum 219 passports 306 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, tours 181, 193
Malom 236 Panguna mine 241 Vilu open-air museum 260 Pema 137 296 tributaries & lakes 198-9
Malu’u 278 Porgera mine 168 Wabag cultural centre 168 Peter ToRot’s cemetery & rats 51 Upper Sepik 193-4
Mamara Beach 259 Mioko Island 224 music 43 memorial church 219 Raun Raun Theatre 157 Sepo island 274
Mameri 199 Misima Island 123 Mustar, Pard 312 Phantom, the 34 Reef Islands 280 Seremi village 106
Mana 262 mobile phones 300 phonecards 300 refugee detention centre 239 Sewa Bay 117
Manam Island 148, 151 moga ceremony 171 N photography 297 Regional Assistance Mission to the shark calling 237
Maneba 138 Moim 198 Nagada Harbour 146 Pigeon Island 280 Solomon Islands 13-14, 249 sharks 237
Mangalonga 262 money 15-16, 293, 296-7, see also Nagam 198 Pijin 327-8 religion 40, see also cults, magic shopping 298-9
Manikaraku 260 inside front cover Namatanai 236-8 planning 293, see also practice, witchcraft Shortland Islands 280
Manta Ray Cleaning Station 116 Moresby, Captain John 69 Nateara Reef 76 itineraries ancestor worship 36 Siar Island 145
Manubada (Local) Island 76 Morgan Junction 244 National Botanic Gardens 76 plants 49, 51, see also individual plants Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201 Simbai 149
Manus Island 239 Morobe Province 127-40, 126-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) PMVs 318-19 Rendova 265 Simbo island 274
Manus Province 238-40 mosquitoes 178, 322, 323 75-6 Poha 259 Rennell 279-81, 279 Simbu Province 161-3
Maprik 184-5 Moti, Julian 14, 31 National Museum & Cultural Centre Point Cruz 250 restaurants 65-6, see also individual Simpson Harbour 219
motorcycle travel 317-18 (Honiara) 251 politics 12-14, 30-2 locations Sinasi Reef 76
000 Map pages Motu people 69 national parks 52 ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, Ringgi 274 skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172
000 Photograph pages Mt Austen Rd 258 Lake Kutubu 172 247, 249 ringtail possums 50 Skull island 265
Mt Balbi 244 Varirata National Park 83 Polynesian people 23 Robinson, Christopher 115 Skyline Drive 252
 © Lonely Planet Publications
346 Index (S-W) I n d e x ( W - Y ) 347

Smart, Rae 303 Tembin 237 Tulagi 262 tours 163, 172 Western Province (Solomon Islands) Battle of Wau 125
snakes 50, 324 Temotu Province 280 diving 61, 262 Varirata National Park 83 263-74, 264 books 28
snorkelling, see diving Tenaru 259 turtles 135, 136 Wamol village 168 Wewak 179-83, 180 Bulldog Track 137
Sogavare, Manasseh 13 Teptep 150 TV 42-3, 283 wantoks 37 White Island 242 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142
Sogeri Rd 83-4 Tetepare Island 266 typhoid fever 323 war memorials White River Village 251-2 dive sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253
Sohano Island 242 textiles 47 Australian War Memorial (Alotau) Wickham, Dorothy 257 fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106
solo travellers 299 theatre 43-4 U 110 wigmen 173 internet resources 27
Solomon Islands 246-81, 248 Raun Raun Theatre 152 Uepi 268-9 Australian war memorial wildlife 48-52 itineraries 21
Bellona Province 279-81 Timbunke 196 Ukarumpa 161 (Popondetta) 106 books 50, 51 PT boats 108
Central Province 261-3, 261 time 301, 350-1 Uluputur 237 Cape Wom International Memorial wildlife management areas 52 tours 221, 253, 265
culture 33, 247 toilets 301 Upper Ramu Project 161 Park 183 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 WWII sites & relics
Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 Tok Pisin 328-30 Utupua 280 Japanese war memorial (Aitape) 187 Crater Mountain Wildlife Alexishafen 147
history 22 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Japanese war memorial (Poha) 259 Management Area 160 Buin 245
Malaita Province 274-9, 275 207-8 V Memorial Gardens 259 Kamiali Wildlife Management Buka 242
Rennell 279-81, 279 Tore, Tony 74 vacations 295 US war memorial 252 Area 136-7 Buna 106
Western Province 263-74, 264 tourist information 301 vaccinations 320 Waramo 187 Kantobo 172 Cape Moem 183
Solomons Peace Memorial Park tours 319, see also village tours Vanikoro 280 Waria Valley 137-8 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Guadalcanal 259
258 Amboin 199 Vanimo 185-7 Wasi Falls 172 207-8 Kiriwina Island 120
Somare, Sir Michael 13, 32 bird-watching 173-4, 206, 285 Varirata National Park 83 Watam 148 wildlife-watching 53, 289 Kolombangara 274
Songitin eternal flame 188 cultural tours 174, 268, 279 Vella Lavella 274 water 323 Willaumez Peninsula 226 Kokopo 218
Southern Highlands Province 169-74 cycling tours 236 Veuru 260 water hyacinth 177 windsurfing 289-90 Matupit Island 223
souvenirs 299, see also artefacts Goroka 158 village stays 122, 235 Wau 139-40 witchcraft 109, 116, see also magic Salamaua 136
spirit houses 36, 44, 195 Honiara 253 village tours Wawela 120 practice Talasea 226
sports 39, see also cricket Kavieng 231 Amboin 199 weather 15 Wogamush River 198
Stone Dog 265 kayaking 286 Jais Aben 147 tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Wom 198 Y
INDEX

INDEX
string bags 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 Kokoda Track 93-5 Madang 143 Weathercoast 261 Wombun 198 Yabob 145
Suapmeri 194-5 Kwaio people 278 Marovo Lagooon 269 weaving 47 women in PNG 40-1 Yalaka village 122
Summer Institute of Linguistics 160 Lae 129, 131 Mt Hagen 165 websites, see internet resources women in Solomon Islands 40-1 Yambon 193
sunburn 326 Madang 143 Putput 235 weights 283, see also inside front women travellers 304-5 Yamok 194
surfing 21, 287-8 Milne Bay 109, 111 Vilu open-air museum 260 cover work 305 yams 35, 65, 120
itineraries 21 Mt Hagen 165-6 visas 302-3, see also passports West New Britain Province 225 Wuvulu Island 240 Yandina 263
Kavieng 229 Mt Wilhelm 162 volcanoes West New Georgia 263-6 WWI 26 Yaws 323
Los Negros Island 239 Port Moresby 76 Karkar Island 150-1 Western Highlands Province 163-8 WWII 21, 27-8, see also cemeteries, Yentchen 195
Manus Island 239 Rabaul 221 Manam Island 148, 151 Western Province (PNG) 204-8, 202-3 Kokoda Track, museums, war Yessan 193
Vanimo 186 Sepik River 181, 193 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, culture 201 memorials Yip 198
Swagup 193 walking tours 163, 172 222, 223, 8 history 201 Battle of Milne Bay 88 Yule Island 89-90
West New Georgia 264-5 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224
T wildlife-watching 289 Savo 262
Tabar 238 WWII sites 221, 253, 265 volunteering 303-4
Tabubil 205-8 traditional medicine 326 Vonavona Lagoon 265
Talasea 226 tree kangaroos 50, 150 Vulcanology Observatory 220
Tambanum 196-7 trekking 17, 288-9, see also walking
Tami Island 138 Black Cat Track 137 W
Tanga Island 238 Bulldog Track 137 Wabag 168-9
Tangarere 261 jungle tracks 289 Wagawaga 114
Tari 173 Kokoda Track 91-105 Wagu Lagoon 198
Tavanipupu island 260 Kolombangara 274 Wahgi Valley 168
Tawali 115 Ramu River 149 Waigani 77
taxis 318 tribal art 191 Wakunai 244
Telefomin 188 Trobriand Islands 118-23 walking 319, see also trekking
telephone services 300-1 carvings 122 Ialibu 172
Tsoi Island 234 Madang, to 163
000 Map pages tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Marovo Lagoon 268
000 Photograph pages Tufi 107-8 Mt Wilhelm 162
diving 57, 107 Rabaul 224
 © Lonely Planet Publications
348 G r e e n D e x 349

Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles National Parks Board Huts SOLOMON ISLANDS
GREENDEX

GREENDEX
(Bol) 236 (Mt Wilhelm) 163 CENTRAL PROVINCE

GreenDex Puroro Guest House (Lelet

Plateau) 237
Treehouse Village Resort
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
PROVINCE
activities
MV Bilikiki (Russell Islands) 263
Tulagi Dive (Tulagi) 262
(Putput) 235 accommodation
The following attractions, activities, tours and accommodation have been selected by Lonely Planet Tsoi Lik Lagoon Guesthouse Ambua Lodge (Tari) 174 GUADALCANAL
authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism. Some places are run locally or by (Tsoi Island) 234 Kiburu Lodge (Mendi) 171 accommodation
a community (eg a women’s group or church) and profits remain in the community. Some are activities Pentecostal Guesthouse Tavanipupu Island Resort
also unintentionally very ‘green’; they may have no electricity, and grow or catch their own food. Adventures in Paradise Yacht (Mendi) 171 (Tavanipupu Island) 260
Compared to consumption in the West, these places are very economical with resources. We’ve also Charters (Nusa Lik Island) Tari Women’s Guesthouse Tawaihi Island Retreat (Tawaihi
included ecolodges that are upmarket compared to the local village guesthouse, and offer ecotours 230 (Tari) 174 Island) 260
(such as bird-watching), which allow communities to make a living from the natural environment, Kavieng Surf Club Tubo Eco-Tourism Lodge
and provide an alternative to selling up to mining and logging companies. (Kavieng) 230 (Lake Kutubu) 172 MALAITA PROVINCE
We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content. If you think we’ve omitted someone Scuba Ventures Warili Lodge (Tari) 174 accommodation
who should be listed here, or if you disagree with our choices, contact us at www.lonelyplanet (Kavieng) 231 Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway
.com/contact and set us straight for next time. For more information about sustainable tourism WEST NEW BRITAIN (Langa Langa Lagoon) 278
and Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel. ORO PROVINCE PROVINCE
activities accommodation WESTERN PROVINCE
Tufi Dive Resort (Tufi) 108 Walindi Plantation Resort accommodation
PAPUA NEW GUINEA MADANG PROVINCE Kamiali Training Centre & (Kimbe Bay) 227 Fatboys (Mbabanga Island)
CENTRAL PROVINCE accommodation Guesthouse (Lababia) 137 SEPIK, THE attractions 272
accommodation Anua Negu Lodge (Bogia) 148 Labu Tali guesthouse (Labu Tali accommodation Mahonia Na Dari Conservation Matikuri Lodge (Marovo Lagoon)
Loloata Island Resort (Loloata CWA Guesthouse (Madang) 143 village) 135 Ambunti Catholic Mission Centre (Kimbe Bay) 226 268
Island) 90 Kalam Guest House (Simbai) 149 Lutheran Guesthouse (Lae) 132 (Ambunti) 194 Oravae Cottage (Sepo island)
Keki Eco-Mountain Lodge Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse Ambunti Lodge (Ambunti) 194 WESTERN HIGHLANDS 274
EAST NEW BRITAIN (Salemben) 148 (Lae) 132 Auong Guesthouse (Muschu PROVINCE Sanbis Resort (Mbabanga Island)
PROVINCE Krangket Island Lodge (Krangket Salamaua Guesthouse (Salamaua) Island) 184 accommodation 272
accommodation Island) 145 136 Karawari Lodge (Amboin) 199 Wahgi Guesthouse (Wahgi Valley) Tetepare Descendants’ Association
Kabaira Beach Hideaway Siar Island Guesthouse (Siar Salamaua High School (Salamaua) Toheyo Guesthouse (Wasui 168 (Tetepare Island) 266
(Kabaira Bay) 224 Island) 145 136 Lagoon) 198 tours Uepi Island Resort (Marovo
Koki Women’s Guesthouse Teptep Guesthouse (Teptep) 150 Tami Guesthouse (Tami Island) 138 tours PNG Eco-Adventure Tours (Mt Lagoon) 269
(Jacquinot Bay) 224 Tugutugu Guesthouse (Karkar Tulip Guesthouse (Bau) 138 Chris Karis (Wewak) 192 Hagen) 165 Wilderness Lodge (Marovo
Pisiua Guesthouse (Jacquinot Island) 151 Unu Guesthouse (Mt Unu) 138 Joseph Konai (Ambunti) 192 Trans Niugini Tours Lagoon) 269
Bay) 224 activities Wau Ecology Institute (Wau) 139 Steven Buku (Wewak) (Mt Hagen) 165 Zipolo Habu Resort (Vonavona
activities Aquaventures PNG (Jais Aben) 142 activities 192 Lagoon) 265
Rapopo Dive (Kokopo) Momahi Tours (Lae) 131 WESTERN PROVINCE activities
215 MILNE BAY PROVINCE Village Development Trust (Lae) SIMBU PROVINCE accommodation Dive Gizo (Gizo) 271
tours accommodation 129 accommodation Bensbach Wildlife Lodge Solomon Dive Adventures (Marovo
Kabaira Beach Hideaway Bweka Village Resort (Trobriand Wau Adventures (Wau) 139 Betty’s Place (Kegsugl) 163 (Bensbach) 208 Lagoon) 267
(Kabaira Bay) 221 Islands) 121 East Kegsugl Guesthouse (Kegsugl) Ekame Lodge (Kiunga) Uepi Island Resort (Marovo
Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 112 NEW IRELAND 163 207 Lagoon) 267
EASTERN HIGHLANDS Napatana Lodge (Alotau) 112 PROVINCE
PROVINCE Saidowai Guesthouse (Normanby accommodation
accommodation Island) 118 Island Escapades (Tunung Island)
PNG National Appropriate Ulumani Treetops Lodge 234
Technology Centre (Mt (Wagawaga) 114 Lissenung Island Resort (Lissenung
Gahavisuka Provincial Village Birth Attendant Centre Island) 232
Park) 160 (Trobriand Islands) 121 Malom Guesthouse (Malom
activities village) 236
ENGA PROVINCE Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 109 Mansava Adventure Lodge (Tsoi © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
accommodation Boto Island) 234 restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Kumul Lodge (Mt Hagen) 169 MOROBE PROVINCE Nusa Island Retreat (Nusa Lik
attractions accommodation Island) 232
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Kaip Village Lifestyle Model Bula Falls Guesthouse (Gwado Panafilla Village Guesthouse everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
(Kaip Village) 169 village) 136 (Bol) 236 the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’