International Journal of Oceans and Oceanography

ISSN
© Research India Publications http://www.ripublication.com

Wave Tranquility On The Breakwater Design

Consideration In The Pangandaran Port
Regi Nugraha 1, Eka Oktariyanto Nugroho2, Cipta Riyana3, Yati Muliyati1
National Insitute of Technology, Bandung, Indonesia.

Abstract
The wave tranquilty is a study that analyzes the tranquility of a wave propagation.
This study is intended to determine a location can be said to calm down with a limit
of wave height that occurs due to wave propagation. Pangandaran port is a place
that made to increase the potential of Pangandaran district area. A problem which
face in Pangandaran port is a high wave that caused by the location of Pangandaran
port itself that placed in the south area of the sea, that condition can disturb the
tranquility of the basin. To keep the tranquility of the basin, a plan to solve this
problem had been proposed. To determine the wave condition occurred in the basin,
the scientist did a numeric model study in order to transform a wave with help by
MIKE 21 software. The study that have been done was to compare the condition of
wave in the basin before and after the installation of the breakwater. The primary
purpose of this study is to evaluate the wave tranquility in the basin, it became a
reference to predict the amount of the day that ships could operate and this study
done to know how optimal the breakwater keep the wave tranquility.
Keywords: Wave tranquility, wave height, breakwater

1.0.INTRODUCTION
Port construction is very important to consider the environment condition which
happened in development plan location. Functional and operational requirement from
the port must be fulfilled too. Considering the parameter of environment, the layout of
the port must be in such a way in order to maintain the wave tranquility. Numeric
modeling is a suitable way in order to determine the condition of port based on layout
that have been planned.

In earlier studies it was mentioned that for wave tranquility analysis must have a
limitation that determines the calmness of the location due to a wave height that occurs.
In the study “Wave of Tranquility and Littoral Studies for Development of a Mini
Fishing Harbor (K.H.Barve, 2015)” analyzes the calm waves that occur in the harbor
basin using the wave height 0.3 m. The waves occurring in the basin are obtained from
2 Regi Nugraha, et al

wave propagation using numerical modeling, the modeling results will determine the
proposed port layout to be fully operational.

In the study "Wave Agitation Criteria for Fishing Harbors in Atlantic Canada" analysis
by determining the wave height value in various seasons for ship operations with the
purpose of port operations can be avoided from extreme circumstances. The way in
which is done by daily observation on seasonal wave events, measurements using bouy
that can measure wave height in shallow waters in order to obtain new criteria for fish
harbor.

In this study will be conducted wave tranquility analysis at port of Pangandaran.

Pangandaran Port built because of the government’s desire to increase the potential of
Pangandaran district area. The location of Pangandaran port has a high wave condition
because of the beach itself still in the South Beach area which disturbs the tranquility of
the basin. This condition became a background to build a breakwater in the harbor
location in order to optimize the processes of the ship’s operation and berthing.
Considering the factors mentioned before then numerical model study is done to
determine the wave height of the basin, became a reference to predict the amount of the
day that ships could operate and this study done to know how optimal the breakwater
keep the wave tranquility.

A. Methodology
The wave data near the port usually unavailable then the wave data retrieved from
hindcasting calculation using wind data near the shore. MIKE 21 SW model in located
port done to determine the wave condition in the basin with wave height transformation
in the deep sea. Wave transformation involve comprise refraction, shoaling, reflection,
diffraction and the other factor which affect the wave transformation. The modelling
done by comparing the wave height transformation result before and after the
breakwater installation. The wave height limit used is 0.5 m for the wave height criterion
is said to be calm, the limit determines how many days the ship can operate with the
wave height that occurs in the harbor basin and how optimal the proposed layout
breakwater performance is.
Wave Tranquility On The Breakwater Design Consideration In The Pangandaran Port
3

Fig. 1. Flowchart of Studies Wave Tranquility

4 Regi Nugraha, et al

2.0 PROJECT DESCRIPTION

A. Site
Pangandaran port is located in Bojong Salawe, Kalangjaladri, Parigi, Pangandaran, West
Java. The location include in Pantai Selatan area which have high wave height (Fig.2).

Fig.2. Location Map

B. Condition
The data analyzed are wave height for the past last 10 years generated from
hindcasting calculation of wind data retrieved from BMKG Cilacap Observatory.
Observed the wave which considered was the most influenced through the basin with
saw the environtment condition are from East, Southeast, and South. Wind speed data
was deliveres in windrose shape (Fig. 3) and the high wave data in waverose shape
(Fig. 4)

Fig. 3. Windrose Cilacap 10 year

Wave Tranquility On The Breakwater Design Consideration In The Pangandaran Port
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Fig. 4. Waverose Pangandran 10 year

Wave height and period in the sea for 10 years was collected and made a chart
relationship H and T this chart produced a simple equation Y= [5,4065x] ^0,4204 or
can be write T = [5,4065H] ^0,4204. The equation and chart can be seen on (Fig. 5).

Fig. 5. Chart H & T

Discussion
Repeated period just can be done through H value, meanwhile for T obtained from
equation T= [5,4065H] ^0,4204. High and wave period for the maximum high sea wave
with re-period 1-200 years. For input of data MIKE 21-SW which used was the result
of repeated period wave data 1 and 25 years for the significant of sea high wave in Table
1 and maximum high wave in Table 2.
6 Regi Nugraha, et al

Table 1. Input Wave Maximum Condition for MIKE21-SW Model.

Re-Periode Maximum Wave Height (meter) Wave Periode (second)

Year E SE S E SE S
1 1.3 1.6 2.5 6 6.6 8
25 4.9 5.7 5.8 10.5 11.2 11.3

Table 2. Input Wave Significant Condition for MIKE21-SW Model.

Re-Periode Significant Wave Height (meter) Wave Periode (second)

Year E SE S E SE S
1 0.8 0.5 1.2 5 4.2 5.8
25 2.5 4.3 3.7 7.9 10 9.4

3.0 WAVE MODEL SIMULATION

Wave modeling done in previous condition that installed and after installed the
breakwater with 3 input high wave scenarios, maximum high wave and significant high
wave. The result of the previous wave before installed the breakwater (Fig.6) and after
installed breakwater (Fig.7).

Fig. 6. Simulation wave without breakwater for Wave Tranquility studies

Wave Tranquility On The Breakwater Design Consideration In The Pangandaran Port
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Fig. 7. Simulation wave with breakwater for Wave Tranquility studies

The result from those modelling above obtained in port pool that has a high sea wave.
Determination of a lot of cases that many of ships can anchored is one of the result from
sea wave data transformation from 1 year from pool to the port, this data was presented
in recapitulation of calculations format and the presentation of ships that can berthing
are in Table 3, Table 4 and Table 5.

Table 3. The calculation of ship berthing without breakwater layout.

Deep Water Shallow Water

Berthing/
Month Height Period Height Events Event
Direction Berthing Month
[m] [second] [m] [day] [percent]

East 3.50 8.30 0.2-0.6 13 13.95% No

January - South East 2.00 7.60 0.2-0.3 5 5.38% YES
Berthing
March South 4.30 9.70 0.2-0.8 5 5.30% No
Calm 68 75.37% YES
East 3.60 8.40 0.3-0.7 29 32.00% No
South East 5.00 10.20 0.2-1.2 15 16.80% No Not
April – Jun
South 3.00 8.60 0.2-0.6 21 23.20% No Berthing
Calm 26 28.00% YES
East 3. 6 8. 4 0.2-0.6 3 2.90% No
South East 3.60 8.40 0.2-1.4 10 11.00% No Not
July –
South 3.40 8.30 0.2-0.8 29 31.20% No Berthing
September
Calm 51 54.90% YES
East 3.70 8.50 0.2-0.6 6 6.60% No
October – South East 5.40 10.40 0.2-1.6 8 8.90% No
Berthing
December South 5.00 10.20 0.2-0.8 21 22.78% No
Calm 56 61.72% YES
8 Regi Nugraha, et al

Table 4. The calculation of ship berthing with breakwater layout.

Deep Water Shallow Water

Berthing/
Month Height Period Height Events Event
Direction Berthing Month
[m] [second] [m] [day] [percent]

East 3.50 8.3 0.1-0.4 12 13.00% YES

January - South East 2.00 7.6 0.0-0.1 5 5.60% YES
Berthing
March South 4.30 9.7 0.00 4 4.90% YES
Calm 69 76.50% YES
East 3.60 8.4 0.1-0.4 27 29.70% YES
South East 5.00 10.2 0.0-0.1 15 15.80% YES
April – Jun Berthing
South 3.00 8.6 0.00 20 21.70% YES
Calm 30 32.80% YES
East 3. 6 8.4 0.1-0.2 3 2.90% YES
South East 3.60 8.4 0.0-0.1 11 12.00% YES
July – Berthing
South 3.40 8.3 0.00 29 32.00% YES
September
Calm 49 53.10% YES
East 3.70 8.5 0.1-0.3 6 6.20% YES
October – South East 5.40 10.4 0.0-0.1 8 8.30% YES
Berthing
December South 5.00 10.2 0.00 20 22.10% YES
Calm 58 63.40% YES

Table 5. Recapitulation of the calculation and the percentage of ships berthing

Berthing Not Berthing

No. Condition Month Events Events Events Events

[days] [%] [days] [%]

(January - March) 22 24% 68 74%

(April - June) 66 73% 26 28%
Without
1 (July - September) 41 46% 51 55%
breakwater
(October - Desember) 35 39% 56 61%
Average 41 46% 50 55%
(January - March) 0 0% 90 100%
(April - June) 0 0% 92 100%
Within
2 (July - September) 0 0% 92 100%
breakwater
(October - Desember) 0 0% 91 100%
Average 0 0% 91 100%

Discussion

Recapitulation of presentation ships above shows that the previous condition before
breakwater installed was average in just 55% the possibility many ships can increase
each month was less optimal, meanwhile for the condition after installed breakwater the
possibility of ships can increase to 100%.

The result of port pool modelling with the maximum of high wave and significant
high wave before installed breakwater could be seen in Table 6 and Table 7.
Wave Tranquility On The Breakwater Design Consideration In The Pangandaran Port
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Table 6. Wave Height at Harbor Without Breakwater

Significant Wave in Deep Sea Wave in Around Harbor
Wave Height Wave Periode Heigth
Direction Re-
Effect Effect
Waves Periode 𝑯𝑺 𝑯𝒎𝒂𝒌𝒔 𝑻𝒔 𝑯𝑺
𝑯𝒔 𝑯𝒎𝒂𝒌𝒔
Coming [year] [m] [m] [second] [m]
[m] [m]
East 1 0.8 1.3 5 6 0.6-0.7 1.0-1.13
South East 1 0.5 1.6 4.2 6.6 0.4-0.5 0.5-0.6
South 1 1.2 2.5 5.8 8 0.6-0.7 1.0-1.4
East 25 2.5 4.9 7.9 10.5 2.1-2.15 2.1-2.3
South East 25 4.3 5.7 10 11.2 2.1-2.6 2.5-3.0
South 25 3.7 5.8 9.4 11.3 1.2-1.7 1.3-1.7

Table 7. Wave Height at Harbor Without Breakwater

Maximum Wave in Deep Sea Wave in Around Harbor
Wave Height Wave Periode Heigth
Direction Re-
Effect Effect
Waves Periode 𝑯𝑺 𝑯𝒎𝒂𝒌𝒔 𝑻𝒔 𝑯𝑺
𝑯𝒔 𝑯𝒎𝒂𝒌𝒔
Coming [year] [m] [m] [second] [m]
[m] [m]
East 1 0.8 1.3 5 6 0.01-0.02 0.05-0.06
South East 1 0.5 1.6 4.2 6.6 0.01-0.02 0.04-0.05
South 1 1.2 2.5 5.8 8 0.01-0.04 0.01-0.03
East 25 2.5 4.9 7.9 10.5 0.06-0.07 0.11-0.12
South East 25 4.3 5.7 10 11.2 0.05-0.07 0.06-0.07
South 25 3.7 5.8 9.4 11.3 0.01-0.05 0.01-0.04

CONCLUSIONS
Transformation of sea wave study which done and the result can know the condition
of tranquility in sea wave. The result of sea wave transformation shows that must of
sea wave directions are to the East, Southeast and to the South. The conclusions
obtained from the wave modeling are as follows.

• The result of numeric modelling for wave tranquility in basin after there was a
transformation of the inside of sea wave. From the high that allowed 0.5 m
obtained in the condition after breakwater installed wave height in the basin are
calmer.
• First scenario with data of sea wave height from 1 year was produced the average
presentation about 55% in the condition without installed breakwater and the
average presentation about 100% for the condition with breakwater installed.
• Second scenario with the significant wave height from 1 year repeated constantly
period produced the wave height with the higher result was between 0.6-0.7 m for
the condition without breakwater, meanwhile for the condition with there was a
breakwater in there was less than the limit 0.5 m
10 Regi Nugraha, et al

• Third scenario with the maximum wave height from 1 year repeated constantly
period produced the higher wave between 1.0-1.4 m for the condition without a
breakwater, meanwhile for the condition with a breakwater in there less than limit
0.5 m
• Tranquility sea wave study shows that port wave in the port pool was more calmly
in the sea wave condition after installed a breakwater, so the further planning for
installed a breakwater must be do.

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