APPENDIX I1

A GLOSSARY OF THE INDIAN TEXTILES EXPORTED TO

SWTH EAST ASIAN COUNTRIES AND ENGLAND

ALLEJEAS, A variety of s t r i p e d c l o t h of mixed w i t h

ALLEGAIS, cotton and s i l k , commonly red, white o r
ALACHA, blue, sometimes flowered and embellished
ALLEJAES, with gold and silv, thread. Length: 16-
ALLEGAES. 17 yards by 1.25 yards of width.
Manufactured i n Western India, South I n d i a
and Bengal.

AMBERTEES A superior quality of white cloth woven i n

Patna area (Bihar). It was in great
demand f o r the London market i n the f i r s t
half of the seventeenth century. Size
about i yard broad and 13 yards long. It
was especially used for the lining of
quilts, and also for re-export.

BAFTAS, This term covered more than one k i n d of

BAFFETAS. cotton goods. Baftas of plain cotton calico
of Gujarat varying i n quality from coarse
to fine. Baftas sent to Europe were
usually white, but for Asian markets they
were commonly dyed red, blue or black.
After the Gujarat famine it was
manufactured i n other parts of India. 15
cubits long.
BEATHILLES, A white muslln made a t Masulipatnam and
BETILLES. Golconda, especially l o the neighbwrhood
of Warangal. The name i s connected w i t h
Portuguese beatilha, 'veil'. It is a
Deccan name f o r muslin. Length varied
from 15 to 25 yards; usually If yards
broad. Dyed in red, and sometimes
striped or flowered with embroidery, in
great demand i n Europe as shawls.

BRAWLES A cheap blue and white striped cotton

cloth patterned i n loom, classified as a
'gulnea-stuff' and i n great demand f o r the
slaves. Manufactured I n Western India.

BYRAMI , The name of a very fine cotton stuff,

BYRAMS, usually dyed i n red, blue, or black f o r
BEIRAME. Asian markets. They were produced
mainly i n Burhanpur area.

CACHCHAI A Loincloth made of coarse cotton.

CANNEKINS, A cheap coarse calico, dyed i n blue o r

CANNIKENS, black. I n Western India chiefly woven a t
CANEQUIMS. Broach and Navsari, and sold i n a l l the
main Asian markets.

CHELAS, I n the seventeenth century records it is

CHILLAES, described as cotton handkerchiefs, usually

CHELLOES. striped blue and white. From Telugu

-
chira or &.
striped and chequered.
A cotton cloth both
CHILLIES, A k i n d of cotton piece goods made i n South
CHELLIES. India. It was cheap checkered sort,
woven mainly i n Madras area and e x p o r t e d
t o Malay Archipelago.

CHINTES, Or m, mentioned in the English

CHINTZ. Factory records t o any painted o r spotted
cotton calico. It had great demand in
Malay Archipelago as sarongs.
Manufactured i n Western I n d l a , Deccan and
on t h e Coromandel coast.

CUTTANEES An important Gujarati export cloth of

mixed wlth silk and cotton with satin
weave, usually striped and sometimes
interspersed with flowerr. In great
demand f o r making of quilts, which were
popular i n England. Produced c h i e f l y in
Ahmadabad and Cambay area.

DERIABADS A good q u a l i t y of p l a i n white calico, often

brought to Broach by the English for
bleaching. Exported t o South East Asian
markets and t o England. Manufactured a t
Daryabad i n Uttar Pradesh. Dimension :
13 to 14 yards long by 3/4 y a r d broad.

DRONGANG MALAYA A k i n d of cotton c l o t h exported from t h e

Coromandel coast: the name may be
connected w i t h the Malay dragsm 'brown o r
very d a r k red! I t was produced on t h e
Coromandel coast as black and r e d , e i t h e r
s t r i p e d o r chequered.
DUNGAREES A p l a i n w h i t e coarse calico w i t h m u l t i p l e
warps and wefts woven mainly on t h e West
coast, usually dyed brown. Exported t o
Malay Archipelago and also t o Europe.

DUPATTA A garment used like wrap, Ilterally a

cloth i n two widths. Manufactured on t h e
Coromandel coast exported to the Malay
Archipelago.

DUTTEES, A very coarse and strong cloth, from

DUTTIES, which dhotie were apparently made. It i s
DHOOTIES. very well known from its use as loin
cloth. The records make i t clear that
Duttees wc-e strong coarse cloth used
mainly for sails and as a packing
material. Manufactured i n Western India.
Usually sold i n length of 12 t o 15 y a r d s
and 1 yard width. W-ven chiefly at
Dolkha i n t h e Western I n d i a .

ECKBARIES Plain white cloth, measurement more than

36 inches, often brought for making i n t o
chintz and quilts and sometimes sent to
Ahmadabad for ordinary dyeing.
Manufactured i n Uttar Pradesh. They were
sold I n a l l t h e main markets.

GINGHAMS Pure cotton cloth woven of dyed y a r n w i t h

stripes and checks. Produced on the
Coromandel coast and in Bengal. They
were e x ~ o r t e d to South East Asfen
 covntrles from Masulipatnam. Later Bengal
Ginghams were extensively exported to
Europe fn the second half of the
seventeenth century. Length usually 21
yards.

GUINEA-STUFFS, The general te-m for a wide range of

GUINEA-CLOTH. cheap, brightly coioured Indian calicoes,
mostly striped or chequered and very
popular among negroes. Exported t o South
East Asian markets and Guinea f o r sale.
Manufactured i n Western India.

GULDARS, Persian gul-dar, 'spotted or flowered'. A

GULDAREES. name for fine muslin turban cloths
ornamented at the ends i n gold or s i l v e r
thread. Burhanpur was the centre f o r
manufacture. It was 12 yards long and 30
inches broad.

GUNNIES A strong coarse calico used for sacking and

as covering for bales; also sent t o England
as piecegoods. Woven mainly i n Rajapur
end Karwar areas and t o a lesser extent a t
Broach.

IZAREES, Manufactured on the North Coromandel.

IZZAREES. From Telugu istree, 'pressed'. Hence
Longcloth or glnghams
implies that the cloth was finished w i t h a
very srnmth surface.
JECKANDAMES, The name g i v e n to a particular sort of
YECKANDAMES. palnted cotton dopatta mainly t o send t o
Slam.

KAINGULONG , From Malay 'Kain', "cloth material", and

CAINGOULONG , gulong, 'rolled'. A variety patterned in
CAINGOULONS. loom and usually incorporated with gold
thread. The term i m p l i e s t h a t t h e y were
exported in rolls. Manufactured on the
coast and chiefly intended into Malay-
sarongs and Java g i r d l e s ( w a i s t c l o t h ) .
KERYABADS A good q u a l i t y p l a i n w h i t e calico, i n great
demand for the English home market on
account of its exceptional length and
breadth. Manufactured at Kairabad in
Uttar Pradesh.

LONGCLOTH The ordinary staple cotton cloth of

Coromandei, very famous in Europe on
account of its length of 37 yards and
w i d t h o f 1.25 yards. I t varied widely i n
q u a l i t y and p r i c e . E a r l i e r i t was woven
in Golconda but later It was produced
mainly in Madras area. It was usually
exported white but it could also be in
blue o r brown colours.

LUNG1 a waist c l o t h .

MEDAPHONS A s t r i p e d c l o t h woven c h i e f l y i n Golconda

and Madras and exported to Malay
Archipelago.
MERCOOLEES, A good p l a i n w h i t e callco, woven I n Jalpur
MERCULEES. and i n Lucknow area. Exported t o South
East Asia and London i n large quantitles.
Sometimes bought for transforming into
chintz. Usually length was 15 yards.

MATAFONS, A low-grade chequered calico b ~ g h tf o r

MITTFOONES, t h e Malay Archipelago. Woven mainly a t
MUTTFOONS. Cambay.

MOREES, One of t h e categories of staple cotton c l o t h

MURIS. woven on t h e Coromandel coast. Usually
of superior q u a l i t y and much i n demand i n
Europe as a substitute for linen c l t o h . It
was also used f o r making chintz. Muris
were blue cloths. Pulicat and
Masulipatnam were traditional centres of
manufacture but l a t e r i n t h e century i t was
also woven i n Madras area. Dimensions
usually 9-10 yards long and 1 yard 8
inches wide o r 15i t o 16 covads.

NICANEES, A cheap s t r i p e d calico, patterned i n loom.

NICKANEES. Bought mainly for the slave markets.
Chiefly woven at Broach and Baroda.
Dimension usually 1 4 t covads long and
1 1/8 covads broad.

PALAMPORE, A hand-painted or block-printed cloth,

PALLAMPORES, produced i n Gujarat c h i e f l y a t Ahmadabad.
PALAMPOSH. A high q u a l i t y c l o t h used as bed-cove-.
PATOLA, Well known Gujarat and Coromandel piece-
PATOLAS. goods of s i l k cloth. The warp and weft
being tle-dyed before weaving according t o
the pre-determined pattern. Patolas were
exported mainly t o t h e Malay Archipelago,
measurements v a r l e d accordlng t o t h e need
of different markets. The longer slzes
were specially commissioned. Chief centre
of patola weavlng were patan, in the
north-east of Ahmadabad and Masullpatnam.

PATTA. A cheap dyed cotton cloth, usually

striped, but varying i n s t y l e according t o
the particular local market f o r which It
was Intended. Manufactured in South
India.

PERCALLAS, A high grade p l a l n cotton c l o t h , especially

PERCALLAES, noted f o r fineness, texture and d u r a b i l i t y .
PARICALS. They were woven i n Madras and Golconda
areas and were the k i n d of calico best
suited f o r chintz. Dimensions were about
8 yards of length and 1 y a r d of width.
Mostly produced in white colour but
occasiwlally i n red.

PINTADOS. Painted cloths with full of figures great

and small, pretilly representing smdry
trades and occupations of t h e Indians w i t h
t h e i r habits.

PITCHARIES. Manufactured i n Western India. They were

coloured urllcoas, exported mainly t o t h e
Malay Archipelago.
RUMBATTEENES, A c l o t h procured a t Nagapatnam.
RAMBOETYNS. The name may be due t o some resemblance
i n t h e pattern t o t h e r e d h a i r y f r u i t of
the Malay 'rambutan' tree.

SAILCLOTH A plain whlte, coarse cloth. Narrow

serihas of double thread having a length
of 20 covads i n Gujarat.

SALAMPORES, The Javanese name for the Coromandel

SALAMPURIS, calico known to the English merchants as
SALAMPOURIES. 'Salampore' . One of the categories of
staple cotton cloth. Woven on t h e coast
varying widely in quality and price.
Made out of pure cotton ranging from
coarse t o very fine, either p l a i n white,
blue o r brown. The usual dimensions were
16 yards long and 1 y a r d wide. Exported
i n large quantities to England from Madras
and Masulipatnam.

SARASSA, ~ d r a s s amans, 'superior' , multi-coloured

SARASSAGOBARS. petterned cloths, much i n demand i n Malay
Archipelago as a waist cloth, and i n Japan
for other uses. The pattern could be
either painted o r woven, such as sarassa
patolas could be sithi- cotton or silk.
Manufactured in South India chiefly at

SEALAS. A material f o r turbans, Interwoven w i t h

gold.
SEMIANOES Good p l a i n and s t r i p e d calico, especially
liked for its breadth, whlch was
sometimes as much as 14 yards. Because
of the size, they were saleable in
England. Manufactured at Samana and
Patiala. Length was about 12 yards.

SERRIBAFFS Good quality, fine muslin from Khandesh

and Daccan, sometimes dyed r e d o r blue.
Exported mainly t o West Asia.

SERIHAS, A cheap strong calico, either p l a i n br

SERYAS, striped. Demanded I n Europe f o r making
SERIJAS, napkins and sometimes flags and sailcloth.
SEARES. Produced i n Western India.

SHASH A turban cloth, usually of fine quality,

and sometimes embroidered or brocaded.
I n great demand in west Asia. Mostly
woven i n the Deccan.

SUCATOONS Striped or chequered fabric of silk or

mixed cotton and silk. Manufactured in
Eastern India. Usually one yard in
breadth, and varied from 10-20 yards in
length, Exported t o t h e South East Aslan
countries.

TAFFETA, A silk cloth with a wary lustre,

TAFFATIE , manufactured i n Bengal.
TAFFETY.
TAPE-CHINDS The name for several combinations of
TAPPE, various piece-goods. Derived from the
TAPE-CHINDAES. Javanese t a p i , 'a s k i r t ' or 'border' and
Hind1 chint 'chintz'. This term indicates
a type of garment, decorated with
patterns. Gujarat specialised in these
goods and later imitated i n other p a r t s of
India. Exported t o Malay Archipelago.

TAPIKACHIL , Multicoloured skirts, decorated with

TAPIPULANG , patterns.
TAPISARASSAS.

TAPSEELS, Cheap striped stuff of mixed silk and

TOPSEILES, cotton (broad and narrow) patterned in
TAFFICILAS. loom, much in demand in the Malay
Archipelago. Woven in the Cambay,
Ahmrdabad and Sind areas.

TUCKERYES, Striped silk piece-goods. Manufactured

TUCKREES. near Patna.
 APPENDIX 1x1

VOLUME OF TRADE
INTRA - ASIAN
A) EXPORTS FROM INDIA TO SOUTH EAST ASIA

Value of Cargo Value of Cargo Total

........
Year From West Coast
E
=..
From East coast1
=.=.....EEE====ll
Value
E

NOTE : This mark indicates the non-availability of data on the

volume of trade throughout this study.
 0) IMPORTS FROM SOUTH EAST ASIAN REGIOI

= . * - . = = 5 1 = . = i D I = . E . = = = = I I I ~ ~ = = ~ = i i

Year Items of Cargo Destination Total

--.
-- ===..;.. .........1s15=1..==~..=
Value i n

37
1616 Pepper 6,1081 cattes.
Japan *
Wax 6,106 cattes.

1617 Sapan wood, hides, Deer

Japan 5,05~%
skins, spices etc.

-- Brimstone 3 tayles, Coromandel coast. 0

tamphor 5 tayles, rawsilk
120 tayles coconut o i l
39
for lamps.

1623 Benzion, camphor, tutenague 40

nutmegs, sandalwood, copper Masulipatnam 8,635
and sllverolate.

1625 Cloves, sandalwood, alum, 41

Masulipatnam 13,583
and r i a l s of eight.

1626 Cloves, sandalwood, turtle- 42

shells, Japan plate and Masulipat~m 13,OW.l
money.

1627 Pepper, cloves, sandal

Surat
wood. etc.

1628 Spices, and other

Surat
natural products.

1630 Gold, r i a l s of elght, lead, Coromandel 45

spices and other goods. coast 12,130
1634 Cloves, tortoise shells,
and other natural products

-- Spices, gpld coins, r l a l 47

of eight i n silver. Masulipatnam 10,925

48
1641 Various items Surat 4,604

49
1644 Many Cornmodltles Madras 2,364

1647 Pepper, brimstone, turtle-

50
shells, long pepper, Madras 9,250
cassialignum and parrots.

Cargo value 7,965 Surat 17,215~

1648 Different sorts of

commodities. Madras

52
1650 Varlous commodities Surat 6,250