DIY Oxygen Absorber For Caching Food Storage

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02-01-2009 #1
Join Date: Jul 2008

Pat Posts: 168
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DIY Oxygen Absorbers
DIY Oxygen Absorbers
Most commercial oxygen absorbers are nothing more than fine iron powder mixed with a polymer grain to
allow air circulation thru the powder - the rusting of the iron powder does the oxygen scavenging of the
containers contents. Its that simple. Its also very easy to replicate that process.
Materials;
*Steel Wool '0000' superfine (don't use "SOS" pads)
*Salt (table salt is fine)
*Paper towels
*Stapler (a cheap "TOT" kids stapler works too)
Pending on the container size take a wad of steel wool and lay it on a open paper towel, sprinkle table
salt over the steel wool and work it into the fibers, fold the towel over and staple in an envelope shape.
That's it !
The salt's acidity activates corrosion of the fine steel wool and the rusting of the steel absorbs oxygen in
the container. Just leave a wad of steel wool outside overnight to see this process in fast forward ... you
don't even need the salt for that experiment.
Keep all your unused DIY Oxygen Absorbers in air-tight freezer bags until you need them.
BTW, for 5 gallon containers I use two DIY Ox Absorbers the size of a fat legal letter envelope, one at the
bottom and one on top of the contents. You can use paper lunch bags too, as long as they are porous - no
waxed bags.
Make sure to use mylar bags in those buckets !
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1 of 7 19/03/2009 08:55
DIY Oxygen Absorbers - Gold & Silver Forum http://goldismoney.info/forums/showthread.php?t=344835
Last edited by Pat; 02-01-2009 at 10:27 AM..
02-01-2009 #2
Join Date: Feb 2008

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Maxine
Registered User
Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers
Thanks, that is a good tip.
02-01-2009 #3
Join Date: Jan 2004

Posts: 2,002
Merlin
*Gold Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat

The salt's acidity activates corrosion of the fine steel wool and the rusting of the steel absorbs
oxygen in the container. Just leave a wad of steel wool outside overnight to see this process in
fast forward ... you don't even need the salt for that experiment.
I'm not a chemist. So I don't know the answers to my questions. Perhaps you do.
First of all, I never heard anyone refer to salt as an acid, especially in the context of dry salt.
In the absence of water or any humidity, would this O2 absorber work? I know that if I leave steel wool
outside overnight that it will rust -- condensation and all that.
But, in the presence of dehydrated food and the remaining air in your storage container, is there enough
moisture to enable removal of all the oxygen in your preps?
Just asking. All you chemists out there, speak up :)
02-01-2009 #4
Join Date: May 2005

RealityCheck Posts: 2,688
The question is will it pull a tight vaccuum using mylar? If it does it should work fine in a pinch. I doubt I
would ever do it that way unless O2 absorbers were no longer available, but still nice to know assuming it
actually works.
02-02-2009 #5
Join Date: Jul 2008

Pat Posts: 168

2 of 7 19/03/2009 08:55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin
Salt absorbs moisture and increases conductivity of the ion exchange of iron/steel and water (moisture).
Quote:

In the absence of water or any humidity, would this O2 absorber work?
In the absence of water the standard reduced iron powder oxygen absorbers won't work either. That's
why you need to keep them in a sealed container prior to use, the powder combines with the moisture in
the air and starts the chemical reaction - RUST.
Corrosion occurs in the presence of moisture. For example when iron is exposed to moist air, it reacts
with oxygen to form rust,
------------------------------------------------------------
Fe2O3 - X H2O
The amount of water complexed with the iron (III) oxide (ferric oxide) varies as indicated by the letter
"X". The amount of water present also determines the color of rust, which may vary from black to yellow
to orange brown. The formation of rust is a very complex process which is thought to begin with the
oxidation of iron to ferrous (iron "+2") ions.
Fe -------> Fe+2 + 2 e-
Both water and oxygen are required for the next sequence of reactions. The iron (+2) ions are further
oxidized to form ferric ions (iron "+3") ions.
Fe+2 ------------> Fe+3 + 1 e-
The electrons provided from both oxidation steps are used to reduce oxygen as shown.
O2 (g) + 2 H2O + 4e- ------> 4 OH-
- Wiki
02-03-2009 #6
Join Date: Nov 2006

Posts: 1,946
Conk
Silver Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat
Fe2O3 - X H2O
The amount of water complexed with the iron (III) oxide (ferric oxide) varies as indicated by the
letter "X". The amount of water present also determines the color of rust, which may vary from
black to yellow to orange brown. The formation of rust is a very complex process which is thought
to begin with the oxidation of iron to ferrous (iron "+2") ions.

3 of 7 19/03/2009 08:55
Fe -------> Fe+2 + 2 e-
Both water and oxygen are required for the next sequence of reactions. The iron (+2) ions are
further oxidized to form ferric ions (iron "+3") ions.
Fe+2 ------------> Fe+3 + 1 e-
The electrons provided from both oxidation steps are used to reduce oxygen as shown.
O2 (g) + 2 H2O + 4e- ------> 4 OH-
- Wiki
Well, when you put it like that anyone can understand it.
__________________
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02-03-2009 #7
Join Date: Jan 2004

Posts: 2,002
Merlin
*Gold Member
Well, I understood it. I took high school chemistry, after all (45 years ago.)
My only question is: if you're storing dehydrated foods, which have little to no moisture, is there enough
humidity in the air inside the jar to absorb the oxygen contained in that air? But that question applies
equally to commercial O2 absorbers.
02-03-2009 #8
Join Date: Feb 2004

Posts: 4,622
shades2
Registered User
You want it powdered or in small chunks if possible as this massively increases the surface area, just like
the real O2 absorbers.
I'd also use plastic bags, perforate those first then put the tissue envelope in. Just in case the tissue
deteroriates over time and you end up with steel wool or particles all through your nice food. I'd use tape
to make the envelope but that's just me...
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4 of 7 19/03/2009 08:55
02-03-2009 #9
Join Date: Feb 2004

Posts: 4,622
shades2
Registered User
Quote:

I'm not a chemist. So I don't know the answers to my questions. Perhaps you do.
Just asking. All you chemists out there, speak up :)
Not a chemist, but I'm pretty sure from memory that in chemistry basic salts were just referred to as
salts. Dissolving a salt in water would create an ionic solution.
Table salt (ignore the iodine content):
NaCL = Na+ Cl- ions in solution.
Not exactly an acid, but something that can react with other elements or chemicals placed in solution. A
corrosive effect does not necessarily make something an acid as far as I'm aware. Very basic solutions
(alkaline) ones can cause massive damage and they are effectively the opposite to an acid.
__________________
_____________________________________________
I believe that a simple and unassuming manner of life is best for every one, best both for the body and
the mind. — Albert Einstein (1879-1955).
This post is Copyright (C) 2007. Only GIM and it's non-Government agency afiiliated members are permitted to read, utilise or store this message, unless
prior consent is given by the author. Any other entity is hereby specifically denied from doing so.
02-05-2009 #10
Join Date: Feb 2008

Posts: 1,612
Agamemnon
Registered User
I think he means that salt increases conductivity of water and that increases ion exchange of the steel
wool and moisture.
I'm sure it works on that same principals as the commercial units.
02-05-2009 #11
Join Date: May 2008

SLV>GLD Posts: 2,857

5 of 7 19/03/2009 08:55
Concerning operation on dehydrated foods: Maybe a small drop of water placed on the absorber prior to
packing with the food is prudent in order to start the chemical reaction? I would think that unless you are
working super duper quick that the reaction will have begun from exposure to the moisture in the same
air you're breathing and working in, though.
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02-05-2009 #12
Join Date: Nov 2008

Posts: 577
CrufflerJJ
Silver Member+
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLV>GLD

Concerning operation on dehydrated foods: Maybe a small drop of water placed on the absorber
prior to packing with the food is prudent in order to start the chemical reaction? I would think that
unless you are working super duper quick that the reaction will have begun from exposure to the
moisture in the same air you're breathing and working in, though.
Pat wrote" Keep all your unused DIY Oxygen Absorbers in air-tight freezer bags until you need them."
NOOOOOOO. Normal freezer bags are just thin LDPE/HDPE (low/high density polyethylene), which just
plain SUCKS as an oxygen barrier material. I guess it's better than nothing, but it's not much of a
barrier. Ever notice how peanuts go rancid when stored in the normal grocery store "freezer bags"????
Even the nylon/LDPE laminate bags (Foodsaver, et al) are not anywhere near as good as mylar as oxygen
barriers.
While this thread may be useful in a SHTF situation, where you happen to have plenty of
degreased/oil-free steel wool pads, for now I'll stick to "real" oxygen absorbers. They're cheap enough
through the ldscatalog.com where I don't feel any need to experiment with my food preps.
For now at least, there's no need to fiddle around with putting drops of water on your homemade oxygen
absorbers. Use the real thing.
02-06-2009 #13
Join Date: Jul 2008

Pat Posts: 168
I didn't realize this thread could go on forever ... its not that complex.
The steel wool is used for furniture restoration, like sandpaper, local hardware store variety, no grease or
oil in it.
It "rusts" (oxidation) combines with oxygen.
Its not rocket science.
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Join Date: Jul 2008

DIY Oxygen Absorbers

DIY Oxygen Absorbers

*Steel Wool '0000' superfine (don't use "SOS" pads)

*Salt (table salt is fine)

*Stapler (a cheap "TOT" kids stapler works too)

Make sure to use mylar bags in those buckets !

PDF Created with deskPDF PDF Writer - Trial :: http://www.docudesk.com

Last edited by Pat; 02-01-2009 at 10:27 AM..

Join Date: Feb 2008

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Thanks, that is a good tip.

Join Date: Jan 2004

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Originally Posted by Pat

Just asking. All you chemists out there, speak up :)

Join Date: May 2005

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Join Date: Jul 2008

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Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Originally Posted by Merlin

Originally Posted by Merlin

Fe+2 ------------> Fe+3 + 1 e-

O2 (g) + 2 H2O + 4e- ------> 4 OH-

Join Date: Nov 2006

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Originally Posted by Pat

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Fe+2 ------------> Fe+3 + 1 e-

O2 (g) + 2 H2O + 4e- ------> 4 OH-

Join Date: Jan 2004

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Join Date: Feb 2004

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

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Join Date: Feb 2004

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Originally Posted by Merlin

Just asking. All you chemists out there, speak up :)

Table salt (ignore the iodine content):

NaCL = Na+ Cl- ions in solution.

Join Date: Feb 2008

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

I'm sure it works on that same principals as the commercial units.

Join Date: May 2008

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Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Join Date: Nov 2008

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

Originally Posted by SLV>GLD

Join Date: Jul 2008

Re: DIY Oxygen Absorbers

It "rusts" (oxidation) combines with oxygen.

Its not rocket science.

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