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Evolusi Pantai-Uraian
Evolusi Pantai-Uraian
Definitions and context
Bourail, New Caledonia, M.Garcin 2012
o The coast is the interface between ocean and lands in consequence the
The driving factors of coastal coast is under the influences of
• marine processes Woodroffe 2003
evolution •
•
continental processes
human communities
human communities
Toward a systemic approach
o The coast evolves at different nested
timescales : from geological time scale
M. Garcin
With contribution from (pluri‐millennia), historical time scale
New Caledonia, M.Garcin 2012
G. Le Cozannet (centuries, decadal), event time scale
(few hours to few days) to physical
process (hours, minutes, seconds…)
e.g. Woodroffe 2003, Coco & Murray 2007
Coastal mobility
a response to forcing factors • Climate change does not only
Raiatéa, French Polynesia, M.garcin 2006 affect sea level but others
parameters like :
• If, at least a marine or a continental variable – air and sea temperatures,
evolves, the coast tempts to adapts to this new – atmospheric and oceanic
Coastal retreat
circulations etc.
condition – all these parameters affect the CL0 CL1
cause(s) of this mobility is not trivial • Impact of CC to coastline change
can’t be reduced to a simple
• The present question is: what is (and will be) the mechanistic projection of sea level
impact of climatic sea level rise on coasts ? landward
The question is: Why it’s impossible to directly assign
a new coastline to a given variation of the sea level?
Other External
geodynamics
processes
Biological
processes
Internal
geodynamics
Anthropogenic
actions and
impacts
Forcing Factor: The Climate
processes
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Other External
geodynamics
processes
Erosion of lateritic soils
External geodynamics External geodynamics
Biological
processes
Anthropogenic
Climate change
Coastal
actions and
changes impacts
processes processes
Internal
geodynamics
processes
New Caledonia , M.Garcin 2012
BRGM
• CC can potentially modify winds climate (trade
winds, storms and cyclones) inducing wave • The CC affects also precipitations (pattern, frequency, intensity)
climates change (wave height, orientations, on lands which indirectly modify:
frequency…) which modify: – At the watersheds scale
– the wave energy during “normal” and extremes • Runoff and surficial erosion of soils
Waves generated during the events at coast
TC04B cyclone in Sri Lanka (Dec 2000)
TC04B cyclone in Sri Lanka (Dec. 2000) • Triggering of landslides (impact on frequency and intensity)
Triggering of landslides (impact on frequency and intensity)
– The cross‐shore currents
• => inducing indirectly modification the supply of sediment to the
– The long‐shore drift currents
rivers
High coastal erosion during – => can modify the coastal behaviour (erosion
the Xynthia storm
stability accretion) and the level of coastal – Water and sediment discharges of rivers at outlets
erosion and flooding hazards at which each • => modification of the sediment supply at the coast and thus the
coastal segment is exposed coastal sedimentary budget which can lead to a modification of
– The wave climate changes have an the coastal behaviour and mobility (accretionstabilityerosion)
impact on the coastline position – likely indirect incidence of rainfall changes on the
La Tranche/Mer, France , M.Garcin 2010
coastline position
Other External
geodynamics
processes
The subsidence effect
Biological
processes
Internal geodynamics processes
Anthropogenic
Climate change
Coastal
actions and
changes impacts
Internal
geodynamics
processes
Morton et al. (2004)
Fault Regional
• At coast the relative sea level is climatic sea level rise
• Vertical movements are not necessarily
composed by: Local sea level regression
Uplift / Local sea level at T0
homogeneous at the regional scale or
– the regional climatic sea level Subsidence Local sea level at T1 even at island scales
– vertical movements of ground Regional and local ground movements
– Vertical movements of each site must be
Uplift
characterized
• The
The vertical movements can counteract, compensate or
vertical movements can counteract compensate or
Local sea level transgression • Studying the geological and
amplify the climatic sea level rise giving the local relative sea Local sea level at T1 geomorphological context, neotectonic and
level Local sea level at T0 seismicity
– Vertical movements can be of different origins : • Monitoring the ground movements using
Subsidence
• tectonic (Tuvalu, Alexandrie, Loyalty islands …), GPS, InSAR etc..
• isostatic (isostatic rebound linked to ice sheets melting : Fennoscandia or
Laurentides, hot spot volcanoes…) – Vertical ground movements have consequences for the coastline position
• Thermic and linked to the cooling of volcanoes… and coastal hazards (erosion and flooding)
e.g. Mörner 1976, Peltier 2004, Ballu et al. 2011, Wöppelmann et al. 2013 e.g. Wöppelmann et al. 2013
Climate change
Biological
processes
Coastal
changes
Anthropogenic
actions and
Example of biological factors: Climate change
Biological
processes
Coastal
changes
Anthropogenic
actions and
Example of biological
impacts impacts
Internal
geodynamics
processes
the reefs Internal
geodynamics
processes
factors : the reefs
• Reefs play a crucial role in the evolution of • CC induced also an increase of SST and of the acidity of ocean
tropical islands as a biological resource, a illustration of the response of reefs to variations in
• Reefs are very sensitive to these parameters; exceeding a threshold for
sediment suppliers, and a protective barrier Holocene sea level (Woodroffe 2003, 2012)
one of these parameters leads to a coral bleaching ...and decreases their
against swells and waves during storms and adaptation capacity to accommodate to the sea level rise.
cyclones • => What will be the impact on the reefs (barrier and fringing) of SST,
salinity and acidity changes?
• Climatic
Climatic parameters like sea level, ocean
parameters like sea level ocean • What will be the impact of reefs evolution on the coastal mobility, on
What ill be the impact of reefs e ol tion on the coastal mobilit on
temperature, salinity and acidity are crucial coastal hazards ?
for coral reef life
– The reefs have been able to accommodate Coral bleaching from 1993 to 2012 (Reefbase Org)
the sea level changes during the Quaternary
as demonstrated by numerous researchers…
– But the remaining question is: what will be
the capacity of coral reefs to accommodate in
the context of higher rate of sea level rise as
predicted in the future decades ?
e.g. Pirazolli et al. 1986, 1988; Bard et al.1990, 1996, 210, Woodroffe 2008, Cabioch 2003, Camoin
et al. 2013
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Other External
geodynamics
processes
Example of biological factors : the
Biological
processes
Biological processes
mangoves Internal
geodynamics
processes
Shells ridge (Mt St Michel France)
Six patterns of mangrove
development in relation • In more temperate seas, biologic
Dumbéa, New Caledonia, M.Garcin 2009 to changes in sea‐level
Woodroffe 2002
productivity of benthos (bivalves,
gastropods…) can be affected by CC
• Important role of the mangroves in the coastline evolution: role in the sedimentation
rates and protection against erosion and waves during extreme events
with incidences on the production of
bioclasts
• Mangroves are influenced by rises of sea level CO2, air and water temperatures,
Mangroves are influenced by rises of sea level, CO air and water temperatures Société Géologique et Minéralogique de Bretagne
precipitation: pattern, frequency and intensity – This modification of bioclasts
production can modify the sedimentary
• All these parameters influence the mangroves evolution, what impact on the mobility Shells ridge detail (Mt St Michel
budget of bioclastic sandy beach and France)
of coastline ?
shells ridges
Identification of least and most vulnerable world’s mangrove forests – Modifications of the beach resilience to
(Alongi 2007)
e.g. Plaziat 1995,
Woodroffe 2002, Gilman
erosion and in consequence to coastline
et al. 2006, Done et al. changes.
2006,
Alongi 2007
Société Géologique et Minéralogique de Bretagne
e.g. Alongi 2007
Other External
geodynamics
processes
Biological
processes
Anthropogenic Groynes
Anthropogenic
Climate change
Coastal
actions and
Direct anthropogenic actions
changes impacts
Internal
geodynamics
processes
Wharf
• Coastal facilities
• Two different types : – Harbours, Wharf,
– Direct actions on the coast Nouméa New Caledonia, M.Garcin 2012
– Embankments for roads, railways,
– Indirect actions which didn't affect the coastal airports….
system but have an impact on it. Groynes St Vincent Bay, New Caledonia, M.Garcin 2009 – Promenades
• Direct and indirect actions have impacts on the Pier
– Sea side urban facilities…
coastal system, wanted or not…sometime at
coastal system, wanted or not…sometime at • The main objective of direct
j Groyne
short time and sometimes at longer timescale actions is to “hold the line”
– Direct anthrophogenic actions =>direct incidence on the
• Coastal defense works (against erosion or Les Aresquiers , France, M.Garcin 2004
coastal evolution and mobility
Mimizan , France M.Garcin 2013 Varna, Bulgaria, M.Garcin 2013
submersion)
Revegetation Railway embankment
– Hard : breakwaters, dykes, groynes, rip rap, levees
Road embankment Promenade, urban
etc. (strategy “hold the line”)
beach
– Soft : revegetation, ganivelles etc…
– Intermediate : beach nourishments (strategy
“advance the line”)
Cap Ferret , France, M.Garcin 2012
Other External
geodynamics
processes
Biological
processes
Indirect anthropogenic actions
Climate change
Coastal
changes
Anthropogenic
actions and
impacts Indirect anthropogenic actions
Internal
geodynamics
processes
o Offshore
Dredging of marine sand and gravel decreasing the shoreface
• The indirect anthropogenic actions sedimentary stock used during the recovery stage of sandy
are various. The feedback effects on Sand extraction coastline
coastal zone were generally not o Onshore/offshore
wanted or even imagined Devon Energy Corporation, 2006
Pumping water (e.g. Manila…), petrol and gaz induce ground
o At the watersheds scale subsidences with impact on the local relative sea level (e.g.
– Hydraulic works within the rivers : ex. Mexico Gulf…)
Dams trapping sediments
– Extracting sand and gravels in the rivers
Extracting sand and gravels in the rivers Tontouta New Caledonia M Garcin 2009
Tontouta, New Caledonia M.Garcin 2009
o The effects of anthropogenic actions can
h ff f h
– Changes in the land use and land cover be summarized as follow :
inducing some modification of erosion
processes ex. : Open cast mining
– Modification of coastal sedimentary dynamics
» Deforestation, reforestation, crops and fluxes
development, urbanization… – Degradation of the functioning of the coastal
» open cast mining etc. systems
» => Modification of the sedimentary – … all these changes lead frequently to :
fluxes in the rivers outlets modifying – a loss of coastal resilience to the extreme events…
the coastal sedimentary budget Depths and locations of oil platforms in the Gulf of Mexico
Poro, New Caledonia M.Garcin 2012
– a modification of the coastal hazards …
» modification of coastal sedimentary (Swordpress in Deep Seas News)
budget => potential coastline changes – coastline changes
e.g. Paskoff & Clus‐Auby 2007, Morton et al. 2004, 2007, Garcin
et al. 2013 Morton et al. 2004, 2007
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Port‐la‐Nouvelle ,
France 2006
• The number of interacting factors playing a role on
g p y g
the coastal dynamics and coastline mobility is largely Cap Breton , France, M. Garcin 2013
enough to explain why the coastal change is highly
variable, and why this will remain so...
Kogalla beach, Sri Lanka M.Garcin 2009
• Moreover, the forcing factors and parameters act on
coasts with highly variable characteristics… THE COASTAL VARIABILITY
Erosion of dune toe,
Huge sand stock counteracting
Sandy beach
• 2 main types of coast : accumulating coasts or ablating coasts
• Accumulating coasts
– Beaches, marshes, estuaries, deltas, reefs…
– The behavior of a coastal strip can be variable (erosion, stability, accretion)
according to season, year or decades Welligama, Sir Lanka , 2006 M. Garcin
evolution of the sedimentary budget
Muddy Tidal flat Urbanized sand spit
Accretion, stability or erosion
Arcachon , France, 2012 M. Garcin
Shaldon UK 2013 M. Garcin M. Garcin
Sandy beach, beach rock and coral pinnacles Beaches with montaneous hinterland and estuary
Geomorphological contexts
• Ablating coasts : rocky Stability or erosion
coasts and cliffs
– Irreversibility of coastline
Hikaduwa, Sri Lanka ,M. Garcin 2007
Tautira , French Polynesia M.Garcin 2005
retreat
Sandy beach and dune erosion
– Importance of the
Estuary
lithology, fracturation,
weathering (humidy and
frost) in the evolution of
rocky coasts
– Sensibility to wave action
Thio, New Caledonia , M.Garcin 2012
Esposende , Portugal M.Garcin 2010
and sea level
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Guetary Senix , France, M.Garcin 2006
Biarritz, France M.Garcin 2006
• Same forcing factors applied to different geomorphological and
g pp g p g
Chalk Cliff (heterogeneous soft rock, Cliff instabilities and engineering works geological contexts:
karstic, fracturated)
– Various and different effects
– Each coastal type have is own resilience and adaptive capacities to
evolution of forcing factors like sea level changes
– For evaluating the impact of cc on coasts it is necessary to realize a
typology the coast taking into account the local geomorphological
and geological context
– The analysis of past evolutions on each type of coast to a changing sea
La Veulette/Mer, France, 2012 G. Le Cozannet
level is a key for understanding the future behaviour of the coasts
Biarritz , France, M.Garcin 2006
Simplified scheme of processes
affecting the shoreline in a
Polynesian atoll
SOME EXAMPLES FROM SOUTH
PACIFIC ISLANDS…
Erosion, accretion,
transport...
External
Schematic of a high island
geodynamics
processes
Pluviometry
Simplified systemic graph of
Sea Level
Change,
Biological
winds, processes
storms,
pluviometry...
Climate Coastline
Anthropogenic
coastline mobility of an atoll (New Caledonian example)
change actions and
mobility impacts
Sea defense,
Cyclones / Lagoonal dykes,
wave climate, embankments...
Climate dependant tropical storms
hydrodynamics
intensity or
External frequence
geodynamics Coastal
lagoonward
Barrier reef erosion
Biological Wind accomodation processes
Internal geodynamics
Coastline
Anthropogenic Bioclastic sand Sedimentary
OffshoreWave mobility
from reef budget
climate
erosion
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Erosion, accretion,
transport...
External
Sea Level
Change,
Pluviometry
Biological
geodynamics
processes
Simplified systemic graph of coastline The caledonian estuaries
processes
mobility of a high island
example
winds,
storms,
pluviometry...
Anthropogenic
Climate Coastline
change actions and
mobility impacts
Thanks