How-to Making Sense of Pattern Grading

The term pattern grading may conjure visions of complicated measurements and fancy rulers, but
once the concept is understood, the process of grading is easy, especially using this method.
You—the home sewer, custom dressmaker, or independent designer—can do just as good a job
as Vogue, BurdaStyle, Calvin Klein, or Donna Karan.

Pattern grading 101

Why grade? The purpose of grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a
pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance, and scale of style details (dresses shown are an
original design).

I’ll explain the thought process behind grading and touch upon the three different methods used
in the industry today. Then I’ll take you step-by-step through a simple cut-and-spread grading
method and provide the measurements and formulas you’ll need to get started. Whether you
want to take a beloved pattern up (or down) a size or two or you want to create a small line of
clothing, pattern grading is an important tool. Once you understand it, you’ll be able to take your
sewing to the next level.

The basic concept

Historically, the science of grading went hand-in-hand with the advent of commercial patterns
and the mass-production of pattern-built clothing some 150 years ago. To properly fit a pattern to
a range of sizes, each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or
decreased. Today, pattern companies and apparel manufacturers take a middle-sized pattern
(typically a size 12) and grade it up for larger sizes and grade it down for smaller sizes (see One
pattern, three sizes).
One pattern, three sizes

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A base size 12 pattern (top illustration) can be graded up to a size 16 (center) using the cut-and-
spread method, and similarly graded down to a size 6 (bottom) by cutting and overlapping along
specified cut lines.
Methods of grading
There are three basic methods of grading: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and computer grading.
No one method is technically superior and all are equally capable of producing a correct grade.

Cut-and-spread: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two methods, is to cut the
pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down.
No special training or tools are required—just scissors, a pencil, tape, and a ruler that breaks 1
inch down to 1/64.

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Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern
by moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right, (using a specially designed
ruler) and redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the cut-and-spread method.
Computer grading: The most recent development is the fastest method, but it tends to be an
investment only larger manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated home computer
software is becoming affordable.

Grading vs. alteration: What’s the difference?

Grading is used to increase or decrease a size, based on an average difference between sizes.
Alteration is used to make a particular size conform to an individual’s figure.

It’s important to remember that grading only makes a shape larger or smaller and isn’t intended
to change a shape. Grading also reflects the fact that individuals of different sizes are
proportionately different, not uniformly different. When we grade up or down, we don’t merely
make everything equally larger or smaller. Instead, we take into account that different body parts
increase at different and proportional amounts.

Pattern vs. body measurements

The first step in any grading exercise is to accurately measure your base pattern. Sometimes you
can find the key measurements you need (bust, waist, and hip) on the pattern envelope. Or you
can measure the pattern itself.

To determine the actual measurements of the sewn garment rather than the size of the paper
pattern, keep two things in mind when measuring a pattern. First, account for all design details. If

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a garment has a bust dart that extends to the waist, then omit the dart area when you measure the
waist; similarly, omit the volume given to pleats and gathers. Second, measure the pattern from
seamline to seamline, not cutting line to cutting line.

Once you’ve gleaned the key measurements from the pattern, you can address the difference
between the pattern measurements and body measurements. To establish your body’s bust, waist,
and hip measurements, you can measure yourself or refer to the Quick reference for cut-and-
spread pattern grading. To measure yourself, wear undergarments that fit well, and hold a
measuring tape snugly (but not tightly) around your waist, the fullest part of your bust, and at hip
level (9 inches below the waist). Before you record your measurements, be sure to add the
amount of ease the pattern includes (or the ease you’d prefer for that style of garment).

Establish the grade

Once you have the bust, waist, and hip measurements from the pattern and your body, you can
address the basic grading dilemma: “How much do I grade up if the pattern is too small? Or, if
it’s too big, then how much do I grade down?” To establish the overall grade, or the total amount
needed to make the pattern larger or smaller, simply calculate the difference between the pattern
and the body measurements. There are two types of overall grades: an even grade and an uneven
grade.

An even grade means that the bust, waist, and hip measurements change the same amount from
one size to another. For example, if a pattern measures 35-27-37 and the body measures 37-29-
39, then the difference between each measurement is 2 inches, and the overall grade is an even 2
inches. Sizes of commercial patterns and apparel always follow an even grade.

If the differences between these measurements aren’t equal, then it’s an uneven grade. This
changes the shape of a garment, as well as its size, so strictly speaking, uneven grading isn’t
really grading. “Uneven grade” is synonymous with “pattern alteration.” An even grade is the
type of grade I will discuss because it’s straightforward and easy to understand. Once you master
the even grade, applying the methods to the uneven grade is the next step. See “Four ways to
address an uneven grade” below for more information.

Grade the pattern using the cut-and-spread method

After you’ve determined that you have an even grade, the mechanics of cut-and-spread grading
are easy. You will use your measurements to do some easy calculations, create the cut lines on
your pattern, then spread/overlap at each cut line the calculated amount. I’ve provided step-by-
step instructions for this process, and listed the necessary formulas in the grading chart, as well
as precalculated values (no math needed) for three different overall grades (1 inch, 1-1/2 inches,
and 2 inches).

The cut-and-spread method can even be used when grading large amounts up or down, for
example a size 4 to a size 18. The large gaps at the cut lines tend to be awkward, so I recommend
grading incrementally instead (first grade the size 4 to a size 12 and then the size 12 to a size 18).

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Insider tip (industry secrets and know-how)
There are no standard sizes in the garment or pattern industry. Each manufacturer sets its own
base pattern measurements and grading conventions based on a specific customer base.
Size-to-size grades for patterns or garments usually differ within a company’s product line.
Smaller grades, 3/4 or 1 inch, are associated with smaller numerical pattern or garment sizes.
That is, a size 4 may only be graded down 3/4 inch to produce a size 2. Intermediate grades, 1-
1/2 inches or 2 inches, are typical of middle numerical sizes. Larger grades, 3 inches or more,
separate larger sizes. This is why one company’s size 8 can be different from another’s (i.e.,
different base pattern measures) and why the difference between a size 8 and 10 vary from one
company to the next (i.e., different grading rules).

Four ways to address an uneven grade

When you have an even grade, the process of grading is straightforward. Home sewers and
dressmakers often, however, encounter uneven grades, when, for example, a dress needs to be
graded up 2 inches at the bust, but 4 inches at the hip. If the grade is uneven, there are four ways
to use grading to alter the pattern:

1. If the grade is uneven and you’re sizing up, then you can use an even grade equal to the value
of the largest measurement difference. If you’re sizing down, then use an even grade equal to the
value of the smallest difference. This will get the pattern close to the general size you need, then
you can make minor adjustments as needed.
2. My favorite method allows for a more exact fit and is the best way to address fit problems for
pear- or triangle-shaped women. Just separate the pattern at the waist, and grade the top and
bottom individually. Then rejoin the pattern, and blend the new lines at the waistline.
3. You can address an uneven grade based solely on the difference between the bust
measurement of the pattern and the body. Because the bust is the hardest part of the body to fit,
many patternmakers evenly grade the pattern to fit the bust, then alter as necessary at the waist
and hip.
4. This method is specific to a common grading challenge that occurs when a body has changed
in width or height, but not both. With a client who’s gained weight, for example, just grade for
circumference and forget about grading for length. Or for a teenage daughter who’s grown 6 in.
taller but hasn’t filled out otherwise, ignore circumference and only grade for length.
Take it to the next level
When you first try grading, start with a basic bodice front and back, skirt front and back, and
sleeve, then graduate to more complicated designs. Remember that any pattern, no matter how
“designed,” is based on one or more of the five basic pieces. Even a strapless top began life as a
basic bodice, so place the strapless bodice pattern over the basic bodice pattern and transfer the
cut lines. A dress is simply a bodice joined to a skirt, so the cut lines and spread/overlap amounts
remain the same. Just match up the vertical lines on the bodice with those on the skirt.

Grading can be as complicated or as simple as you want it to be. So when you first approach any
pattern, always start with these basics. Figure out your needs as a sewer, dressmaker, or designer;
then map out your course, and grade, one step at a time.

How-to Quick Reference for Cut-and-Spread Pattern Grading

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To grade a pattern so it will fit different sizes, refer to the illustrations and
instructions below and the two charts that follow. For a general explanation
of pattern grading, see the article Making Sense of Pattern Grading.

Making the cut

There are five basic pattern pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt or pants
front, skirt or pants back, and sleeve. Each pattern piece has several vertical
and horizontal cut lines, which correspond to measurements on the pattern
grading chart at the bottom of this post.

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These illustrations show where to cut a pattern so that it can be graded for
both circumference (vertical cuts) and length (horizontal cuts). A few simple
calculations determine how much to spread/overlap at each cut line.

These standard cut lines are placed in approximate locations where the body
“grows” or “shrinks.” Vertical cut lines are always parallel to CF or CB (or
sleeve’s grainline), and horizontal cut lines are perpendicular to CF or CB (or
sleeve’s grainline). A cut line may pass across a dart but shouldn’t intersect a
dart lengthwise (this changes size of dart, thereby altering garment’s overall
shape).

Making the grade

1. Establish overall grade (difference between pattern’s measurements and
body measurements).
2. Divide overall grade by 4 to get allocated grade. This distributes overall
grade among four parts of body or pattern (left and right front, and left and
right back).
3. Divide allocated grade among the cut lines on the pattern piece (see
illustrations above) by following cut line’s formula in pattern grading chart
on the bottom of this post. Calculate it yourself, or use the calculated amounts
for commonly used grades.
4. Slash along cut lines and spread or overlap by the required amount along
each cut line.
5. Blend gaps if the pattern was spread; split the difference if overlapped.
Trace the graded piece onto clean paper, and transfer the grainline and
notches.
Example:
Overall grade: 8 inches
Allocated grade: one-quarter of 8 inches = 2 inches
Formula for line 1 (one-quarter of allocated grade): one-quarter of 2 inches =
1/2-inch spread
Garment size chart
This chart represents a consensus of pattern company and apparel
manufacturer sizing. If you aren’t fitting a specific person, you can use it as a
guide for grading up or down.

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Size 4
Bust 32
Waist 24
Hip 34
Size 6
Bust 33
Waist 25
Hip 35
Size 8
Bust 34
Waist 26
Hip 36
Size 10
Bust 35-1/2
Waist 27-1/2
Hip 37-1/2
Size 12
Bust 37
Waist 29
Hip 39
Size 14
Bust 38-1/2
Waist 30-1/2
Hip 40-1/2
Size 16
Bust 40-1/2
Waist 32-1/2
Hip 42-1/2
Size 18
Bust 42-1/2
Waist 34-1/2
Hip 44-1/2
Size 20
Bust 44-1/2
Waist 36-1/2
Hip 46-1/2

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Pattern grading chart
On this chart you’ll find the location of each cut line shown in the illustrations
above, along with the amount to spread/overlap at each for a 1-inch, 1-1/2-
inch, or 2-inch overall grade. In the formula column you’ll see the portion of
the allocated grade (AG) distributed to each cut line.

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 How to Grade a Pattern Up or Down a Size (or Two)
Have you fallen in love with a pattern, only to find that it doesn’t come in your size? A few ladies told
me that Itch to Stitch’s patterns don’t come in their sizes – some are smaller and some are larger
than the measurements. Perhaps you have a tween who is not quite big enough to wear adult sizes,
but too big for kid’s patterns. Perhaps you have a paper sewing pattern whose size range is just
outside of yours (paper patterns come with one size range in an envelop, e.g., 6-8-10-12-14 in one
envelop and 14-16-18-20-22 in another).

There’s no need to despair. With a little time and some effort, you could grade the pattern up or
down.

This method is a pretty safe bet to change up to two sizes.

The caveat is that the pattern must be evenly graded.

Evenly Graded?
What does “evenly graded” mean? It means at any specific point (let’s say, the waist), the
measurements between sizes are the same.

Here’s an example (hypothetical numbers):

SIZE 00 SIZE 0 SIZE 2 SIZE 4 SIZE 6

Waist 64 cm 66 cm 68 cm 70 cm 72 cm

You see that each waist measurement is 2 cm larger than the previous size.

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However, it doesn’t mean that every point on the pattern must increase by the same amount. In fact,
it’s likely that it doesn’t grow by that same absolute amount. Think about when a person gains or
loses weight, some part of her body would increase/decrease more than others. And no matter how
much weight she gains or loses, she wouldn’t be taller or shorter.

Here’s the example:

SIZE 00 SIZE 0 SIZE 2 SIZE 4 SIZE 6

Waist 64 cm 66 cm 68 cm 70 cm 72 cm

Neck to Waist Length 35 cm 35.25 cm 35.5 cm 35.75 cm 36 cm

In the example, while the waist still grows 2 cm per size, the neck to waist length only grows by 0.25
cm per size.

This is typical of women’s patterns. The “big guys,” such as Burda, Vogue, McCall, Butterick and
Simplicity, all have evenly graded patterns. The indie pattern companies, such as Jalie and
Silhouette also evenly grade their patterns, although some patterns have huge size ranges, so they
may evenly grade only within a sub-range. For example, misses 8 to 16 are evenly graded, and
women’s 18 to 24 are evenly graded. As long as there are three or more sizes graded evenly in a
pattern, you can still deploy this method.

You don’t have to study very hard to discover whether a pattern is evenly graded. You can pretty
much recognize it at the first glance. (This is the Vienna Tank.)

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Some of Itch to Stitch’s patterns are not completely evenly graded across all the sizes. For example,
in Lisbon Cardigan, the larger sizes have increasingly longer bodice, whereas the smaller sizes
have the same bodice length. However, because there are more than 3 sizes in one range, you
could still use this method to grade up or down.
So maybe this is an unnecessarily long-winded explanation. Most of the time, you can use this
method anyway.
Let’s get started.
How to Grade
(Click to see larger images.)
Step 1: Determine how many sizes you need to go up or down.
This is body measurement table for most of Itch to Stitch’s patterns.

Notice that for each size, the bust is increased by 1 3/8″ (3.5 cm), the waist by 1 3/8″ (3.5 cm) and
the hip by 1 3/8″ (3.5 cm). These figures happen to be the same, but they don’t necessary have to
for other patterns.
So if there are two sizes bigger and two sizes smaller, the measurements would look like these:

Are you grading one size smaller/larger? Or two sizes?

Step 2: On the pattern, draw a straight, guiding line to connect the “corner points”.

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Step 3: Measure the amount between sizes along each line. If you don’t have too strong of an
aversion to the metric system, I think it’s easier to use millimeter (smaller unit is easier). But either
way would work. I am going to use millimeter here.

Step 4: Plot the next size (or next two sizes) using the measurements.

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The same logic applies with grading down.

Step 5: Repeat step 2, 3 and 4 along curves. More plots along the curves make it easier for you to
connect them smoothly and accurately. There is no absolute number of lines that you need to follow.
You can do it sparingly but enough to make you comfortable with drawing the curve. Try to have the
straight guiding lines perpendicular (the right word is probably “tangent”) to the pattern lines but you
don’t have to be insanely precise (we are increasing/decreasing one or two sizes). You don’t need to
draw more straight guiding lines along the straight part of the pattern lines; those are easy to
connect.
In the following example, I am going to continue on increasing one size only, but you get the drill of
increasing two sizes or decreasing a size or two.

Step 6: Connect the dots as smoothly as you can.

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 After you draw all the dots and connect all of them,
it will look like this:

Repeat for each pattern piece and there you go!

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