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ZZABI
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Contents
Respect the Craft 1 Chicago California Style Global
Chicago Deep-Dish Dough 74 Cal-Italia 149 Barcelona 237
The Master Class
Chicago Stuffed Dough 76 Multigrain Dough 151 München 241
Gearing Up 4 Deep-Dish Tomato Sauce 77 Honey Pie 153 Dubliner 245
Master Class Shopping List 6
Chicago Deep-Dish with Calabrese and Eddie Muenster 157 Parisian 249
Part One: Theory 7 Fennel Sausages 78 Guanciale and Quail Egg 159 Greco 251
Ingredients 11 Chicago Deep Dish with Spinach and Ricotta 81 Campari 163
Fully Stuffed 87 Organic Three Cheese 165 Grilled
Part Two: Practice 21
Day One 21 Cast-Iron Skillet 93 Eggplant and Olive 168 Dough for Grilling 257
Day Two 26 Cracker-Thin Dough 97 Fig, Almond, and Monterey Jack 171 Grilled Pizza Master Recipe 258
Day Three 29 Cracker-Thin with Fennel Sausage 98 Organic Dough 173 Steak Lover’s 260
Cracker-Thin Tomato Sauce 99 Khorasan Dough 176 Insalata 263
Regional American Frank Nitti 101 Einkorn Dough 178 St-Germain BBQ Chicken 265
Italian Stallion 104 Sprouted Wheat Dough 180
Master Dough with Starter 44
Italian Beef 106 Wrapped and Rolled
Tiga and Poolish Starters 46
Italian Beef Sandwich 109 Napoletana Calzone with Meatballs or Spinach 272
Master Dough Without Starter 48
Chicago-Inspired Cocktails 111 Napoletana Dough 187 Mortadella and Cheese Calzonewich 274
New Yorker 51
New York–New Jersey Tomato Sauce 53
Napoletana Tomato Sauce 189 The Bow Tie 276
Sicilian Handmade Mozzarella 190 Pepperoli 278
Sweet Fennel Sausage 54
Calabrese Honey Sausage 55 Sicilian Dough with Starter 118 Wood-Fired Pizza Basics 194 Sausage Rol 281
Casing Sausage 56 Sicilian Dough Without Starter 120 Wood-Fired Oven Baking 197 Two Cool Things to Do with Leftover Dough 283

New Haven with Clams 59 Parbaking Sicilian Dough 122 Home-Oven Broiler Method 202 Meatballs 287
New Jersey Tomato Pie 61 The Brooklyn 125 Margherita 205
Sicilian Tomato Sauce 126 Margherita Extra 207 Focaccia and Bread
Detroit Red Top 63
St. Louis 66 Pepperoni and Sausage 127 Marinara 208 Focaccia 294
Burratina di Margherita 129 Mastunicola 211 Focaccina 297
Purple Potato and Pancetta 133 Ciabatta 298
La Regina 135 Regional Italian After-School Ciabatta Pizza 300
Grandma 139 Lucca 217
Early Girl Tomato Sauce 141 Rimini 219 Baker’s Percentages Chart 302
Quattro Forni 143 Calabrese “Diavola” 222 Measurement Conversion Charts 303
Quattro Anchovy 224
Sardinia 226 Sources 304

Pizza Romana 227 Acknowledgments 306

Romana Dough 232
Index 307
Contents
Respect the Craft 1 Chicago California Style Global
Chicago Deep-Dish Dough 74 Cal-Italia 149 Barcelona 237
The Master Class
Chicago Stuffed Dough 76 Multigrain Dough 151 München 241
Gearing Up 4 Deep-Dish Tomato Sauce 77 Honey Pie 153 Dubliner 245
Master Class Shopping List 6
Chicago Deep-Dish with Calabrese and Eddie Muenster 157 Parisian 249
Part One: Theory 7 Fennel Sausages 78 Guanciale and Quail Egg 159 Greco 251
Ingredients 11 Chicago Deep Dish with Spinach and Ricotta 81 Campari 163
Fully Stuffed 87 Organic Three Cheese 165 Grilled
Part Two: Practice 21
Day One 21 Cast-Iron Skillet 93 Eggplant and Olive 168 Dough for Grilling 257
Day Two 26 Cracker-Thin Dough 97 Fig, Almond, and Monterey Jack 171 Grilled Pizza Master Recipe 258
Day Three 29 Cracker-Thin with Fennel Sausage 98 Organic Dough 173 Steak Lover’s 260
Cracker-Thin Tomato Sauce 99 Khorasan Dough 176 Insalata 263
Regional American Frank Nitti 101 Einkorn Dough 178 St-Germain BBQ Chicken 265
Italian Stallion 104 Sprouted Wheat Dough 180
Master Dough with Starter 44
Italian Beef 106 Wrapped and Rolled
Tiga and Poolish Starters 46
Italian Beef Sandwich 109 Napoletana Calzone with Meatballs or Spinach 272
Master Dough Without Starter 48
Chicago-Inspired Cocktails 111 Napoletana Dough 187 Mortadella and Cheese Calzonewich 274
New Yorker 51
New York–New Jersey Tomato Sauce 53
Napoletana Tomato Sauce 189 The Bow Tie 276
Sicilian Handmade Mozzarella 190 Pepperoli 278
Sweet Fennel Sausage 54
Calabrese Honey Sausage 55 Sicilian Dough with Starter 118 Wood-Fired Pizza Basics 194 Sausage Rol 281
Casing Sausage 56 Sicilian Dough Without Starter 120 Wood-Fired Oven Baking 197 Two Cool Things to Do with Leftover Dough 283

New Haven with Clams 59 Parbaking Sicilian Dough 122 Home-Oven Broiler Method 202 Meatballs 287
New Jersey Tomato Pie 61 The Brooklyn 125 Margherita 205
Sicilian Tomato Sauce 126 Margherita Extra 207 Focaccia and Bread
Detroit Red Top 63
St. Louis 66 Pepperoni and Sausage 127 Marinara 208 Focaccia 294
Burratina di Margherita 129 Mastunicola 211 Focaccina 297
Purple Potato and Pancetta 133 Ciabatta 298
La Regina 135 Regional Italian After-School Ciabatta Pizza 300
Grandma 139 Lucca 217
Early Girl Tomato Sauce 141 Rimini 219 Baker’s Percentages Chart 302
Quattro Forni 143 Calabrese “Diavola” 222 Measurement Conversion Charts 303
Quattro Anchovy 224
Sardinia 226 Sources 304

Pizza Romana 227 Acknowledgments 306

Romana Dough 232
Index 307
Chicago Deep Dish with
Spinach and Ricotta
Makes one 13-inch deep round pizza; 6 large slices

chicago
Along with sausage, spinach and ricotta is the other classic Chicago pizza combo. You’ll
find some recipes—and some pizzerias—that use raw spinach. I start with raw spinach
but I sauté it lightly in a little olive oil until it is just wilted and still green. Then I drain it
in a colander or strainer, pressing it gently to help remove what liquid hasn’t already
cooked off. This approach makes a huge difference because it intensifies the spinach
flavor and reduces the moisture that would result in a wet filling and a soggy crust. I like
to reserve some of the spinach and ricotta to add as a garnish.

1 (27-ounce/765-gram) ball Chicago
Deep-Dish Dough (page 74)
Medium-grind cornmeal, for dusting
2 teaspoons (9 grams) unsalted butter,
at room temperature
9 ounces (255 grams) part-skim
mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
(13 slices)
1 1/2 cups (285 grams) well-drained
Sautéed Spinach (page 83), at room
temperature
Grated Pecorino Romano cheese,
for dusting
1 teaspoon (3 grams) finely
chopped garlic
4.5 ounces (120 grams/1/2 cup)
whole-milk ricotta cheese, preferably
New York–style Polly-O or Ricotta
Cream, page 91, at room temperature
Remove the dough ball from the refrigerator and leave wrapped at room
temperature until the dough warms to 55°F to 60°F. Meanwhile, set up
the oven with two pizza stones or baking steels and preheat to 500°F for
1 hour (see Getting Started, page 29).
Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 12 by 2-inch or 13 by 2-inch
round deep-dish pizza pan.
Dust the work surface with a generous amount of cornmeal, then transfer
the dough to the surface (see Transferring the Dough to the Work Surface,
page 30). Coat both sides of the dough round with the cornmeal and roll
out the dough into a 17-inch round (see Rolling Pizza Dough, page 103).
Working quickly but carefully, lift the dough and lower it into the center
of the prepared pan. Lift the edges of the dough to ease the dough into
the corners. The dough will overhang the rim of the pan (see photo ,
page 79). Press around the edge of the dough to secure it to the pan rim
. Set aside to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Arrange the mozzarella slices in the bottom and slightly up the sides
of the pan , overlapping the slices as necessary. Reserve 1/2 cup
(95 grams) of the spinach and scatter the remaining spinach evenly
over the mozzarella.

continued
«« 81 ««
Chicago Deep Dish with
Spinach and Ricotta
Makes one 13-inch deep round pizza; 6 large slices

chicago
Along with sausage, spinach and ricotta is the other classic Chicago pizza combo. You’ll
find some recipes—and some pizzerias—that use raw spinach. I start with raw spinach
but I sauté it lightly in a little olive oil until it is just wilted and still green. Then I drain it
in a colander or strainer, pressing it gently to help remove what liquid hasn’t already
cooked off. This approach makes a huge difference because it intensifies the spinach
flavor and reduces the moisture that would result in a wet filling and a soggy crust. I like
to reserve some of the spinach and ricotta to add as a garnish.

1 (27-ounce/765-gram) ball Chicago
Deep-Dish Dough (page 74)
Medium-grind cornmeal, for dusting
2 teaspoons (9 grams) unsalted butter,
at room temperature
9 ounces (255 grams) part-skim
mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
(13 slices)
1 1/2 cups (285 grams) well-drained
Sautéed Spinach (page 83), at room
temperature
Grated Pecorino Romano cheese,
for dusting
1 teaspoon (3 grams) finely
chopped garlic
4.5 ounces (120 grams/1/2 cup)
whole-milk ricotta cheese, preferably
New York–style Polly-O or Ricotta
Cream, page 91, at room temperature
Remove the dough ball from the refrigerator and leave wrapped at room
temperature until the dough warms to 55°F to 60°F. Meanwhile, set up
the oven with two pizza stones or baking steels and preheat to 500°F for
1 hour (see Getting Started, page 29).
Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 12 by 2-inch or 13 by 2-inch
round deep-dish pizza pan.
Dust the work surface with a generous amount of cornmeal, then transfer
the dough to the surface (see Transferring the Dough to the Work Surface,
page 30). Coat both sides of the dough round with the cornmeal and roll
out the dough into a 17-inch round (see Rolling Pizza Dough, page 103).
Working quickly but carefully, lift the dough and lower it into the center
of the prepared pan. Lift the edges of the dough to ease the dough into
the corners. The dough will overhang the rim of the pan (see photo ,
page 79). Press around the edge of the dough to secure it to the pan rim
. Set aside to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Arrange the mozzarella slices in the bottom and slightly up the sides
of the pan , overlapping the slices as necessary. Reserve 1/2 cup
(95 grams) of the spinach and scatter the remaining spinach evenly
over the mozzarella.

continued
«« 81 ««
Chicago Deep Dish with Spinach and Ricotta, continued
9 ounces (255 grams) provolone
cheese, thinly sliced (13 slices)
5 ounces (140 grams) part-skim
mozzarella cheese, shredded
(11/4 cups)
2 cups (455 grams) Deep-Dish
Tomato Sauce (page 77), warm
Dried oregano, for dusting
Garlic Oil (page 29), for drizzling
Sprinkle with a light dusting of pecorino and the garlic. Arrange the
provolone slices over the top. Run the rolling pin over the lip of the pan
to cut away the excess dough. If the dough shrinks back, use your fingers
to press the dough around the inside of the pan, extending it to the lip.
Place the pan on the bottom stone. Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the
pan 180 degrees, and continue to bake for another 12 minutes, until the
cheese is melted and the crust is a rich golden brown.
Meanwhile, put the ricotta in a pastry bag with a 1/4-inch opening or
plain tip.
If the reserved spinach is cold, warm it in a pan or in the microwave.
Take the pan out of the oven and sprinkle the shredded mozzarella over
the top of the pizza. Place on the top stone for 2 minutes to melt the
shredded cheese.
Remove from the oven and run a long metal spatula around the inside of
the pan to loosen the pizza from the pan. Then, using the spatula, lift an
edge and check the bottom of the crust. It should be browned and crisp.
If it needs more time, return the pan to the bottom stone for 1 minute.
Using the spatula, and being careful not to pierce the bottom of the
crust, lift the pizza from the pan and transfer it to a cutting board. Using
a rocking cutter or a serrated knife, cut the pizza into 6 large wedges,
leaving them in place. Spoon the sauce over the top and spread it to the
edges with a small offset spatula. Pipe quarter-size dollops of ricotta onto
the pizza and garnish with the reserved spinach. Finish with a dusting of
pecorino and of oregano and a drizzle of garlic oil.
«« 82 ««
Sautéed Spinach
Makes 1 1/2 cup (285 grams)
Olive oil, for sautéing Heat a generous film of oil in your largest skillet over medium-high heat.
chicago
1 pound (455 grams) baby spinach
Shake any excess water from the spinach and add several handfuls to the
skillet, leaving enough room to turn the spinach. Sprinkle with a pinch
Fine sea salt and freshly ground each of salt and pepper. As the spinach wilts and room is made, turn the
black pepper
spinach and add more to the skillet. When you have cooked about half of
the spinach, transfer it to a strainer or colander.
Discard the liquid in the skillet, wipe it dry, and heat another generous
film of oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the remaining spinach the same
way and add to the strainer. Drain the spinach well, squeezing it gently
between your hands.
The spinach can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for
up to 1 day.
Pizza Pans
For pizzas baked in pans, my choice is always black Avoid using water or soap. If a pan rusts, pour about
1/4 cup of salt into it and heat it in a 500°F oven for
steel, not stainless or aluminum, which don’t promote
thorough, even browning. I’ve given more specific pan about 30 minutes. Remove it from the oven and let it
recommendations throughout the book in chapters sit until it’s cool enough to handle, then use paper
with pan pizza recipes. towels to scour the pan, with the salt still in it, until
there are no traces of rust.
Treat any steel pan just like you would a cast-iron
skillet. If it’s not preseasoned, wipe it with a thin If you find that the pizza sticks to the pan when you’re
coating of vegetable oil and heat it in a 500°F oven baking it, reseason the pan as follows: scrape it clean
for about 1 hour. and wipe a thin film of oil over the surface. Put the pan
back in the still-warm oven and let it sit until the oven
Clean steel pans by first lightly scraping with a plastic is cool.
dough cutter and then wiping with a paper towel.
«« 83 ««
Chicago Deep-Dish Dough 18 grams (1 tablespoon plus
1 teaspoon) lard, cut into small pieces,
Continue to mix the dough at the lowest speed for about 1 minute, until
most of the dough comes together around the hook. Stop the mixer. Use
at room temperature your fingers to pull away any dough that clings to the hook, and scrape
Makes 27 ounces (770 grams), enough for 1 deep-dish pizza
18 grams (1 tablespoon plus the sides and bottom of the bowl with a bowl scraper or rubber spatula.
1 teaspoon) European-style unsalted

I make all of my Chicago doughs with Ceresota flour, an unbleached, unbromated
all-purpose flour made from hard red winter wheat. (It is branded Ceresota in Illinois
and elsewhere but is sold under the brand name Heckers in the Northeast; see Sources,
page 304). It’s a relatively low-gluten flour in the 12 percent range that is the traditional
choice of Chicago pizzerias. It’s also the flour I specify when training and certifying
pizzaiolos in Chicago pizza at my school. If you can’t find it, substitute another good-
quality unbleached all-purpose flour for Chicago doughs.
Some Chicago pizzas use cooked potato or semolina in the dough and no cornmeal,
but my flour-and-cornmeal dough is my favorite way to go. It’s made without a starter,
and, unlike most pizza doughs, its flavor and texture come more from fat than from
yeast, making it a bit like a cross between a pizza dough and a pie crust. I’ve found that
equal parts butter and lard make for the best flavor and texture. Note that this dough
needs to proof for at least 24 hours; it will be even better if left for up to 48 hours.
butter, preferably 82 percent
butterfat, cut into small pieces,
at room temperature
202 grams (3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoon)
ice water, plus more as needed
9 grams (2 teaspoons) fine sea salt
For baker’s percentages, see page 302.
chicago
Add the salt and mix on the lowest speed for 1 minute to combine.
Check the bottom of the bowl for any unincorporated flour. Turn the dough
over and press it into the bottom of the bowl to pick up any stray pieces.
Stop the mixer, pull the dough off the hook, and scrape down the sides
and bottom of the bowl. If there is still unincorporated flour at the
bottom of the bowl, sprinkle with a very small amount of water and mix
for 1 minute.
Use a bowl scraper to transfer the dough to an unfloured work surface,
then knead it for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth (see Kneading the Dough,
page 24). Cover the dough with a damp dish towel and let it rest at room
temperature for 1 hour.
Use a dough cutter to loosen the dough and move it to the scale. You will
need 27 ounces (770 grams) of dough. You may have a little extra dough.
Form the dough into a ball (see Balling the Dough, page 26) and set it on
a half sheet pan. Wrap the pan airtight with a double layer of plastic wrap,
sealing the wrap well under the pan. Put the pan in a level spot in the
refrigerator and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

Note on Making Vegetarian Deep-Dish Dough: You can substitute 18 grams

4.5 grams (1 1/2 teaspoons) active
dry yeast
70 grams (1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon)
warm water (80°F to 85°F)
430 grams (3 1/2 cups) all-purpose
flour with 12 percent protein,
preferably Ceresota
23 grams (2 1/2 tablespoons)
medium-grind cornmeal
9 grams (1 tablespoon) diastatic malt
Put the yeast in a small bowl, add the warm water, and whisk vigorously vegetable shortening for the lard.
for 30 seconds. The yeast should dissolve in the water and the mixture
should foam. If it doesn’t and the yeast granules float, the yeast is “dead”
and the mixture should be discarded. Begin again with a fresh amount
of yeast and water.
Combine the flour, cornmeal, and malt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the dough hook. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, add
the lard and butter and mix for 1 minute.
Pour in most of the ice water, reserving about 2 tablespoons, followed
by the yeast-water mixture. Pour the reserved water into the yeast bowl,
swirl it around to dislodge any bits of yeast stuck to the bowl, and add
to the mixer.

«« 74 «« «« 75 ««
Chicago Deep-Dish Dough 18 grams (1 tablespoon plus
1 teaspoon) lard, cut into small pieces,
Continue to mix the dough at the lowest speed for about 1 minute, until
most of the dough comes together around the hook. Stop the mixer. Use
at room temperature your fingers to pull away any dough that clings to the hook, and scrape
Makes 27 ounces (770 grams), enough for 1 deep-dish pizza
18 grams (1 tablespoon plus the sides and bottom of the bowl with a bowl scraper or rubber spatula.
1 teaspoon) European-style unsalted

I make all of my Chicago doughs with Ceresota flour, an unbleached, unbromated
all-purpose flour made from hard red winter wheat. (It is branded Ceresota in Illinois
and elsewhere but is sold under the brand name Heckers in the Northeast; see Sources,
page 304). It’s a relatively low-gluten flour in the 12 percent range that is the traditional
choice of Chicago pizzerias. It’s also the flour I specify when training and certifying
pizzaiolos in Chicago pizza at my school. If you can’t find it, substitute another good-
quality unbleached all-purpose flour for Chicago doughs.
Some Chicago pizzas use cooked potato or semolina in the dough and no cornmeal,
but my flour-and-cornmeal dough is my favorite way to go. It’s made without a starter,
and, unlike most pizza doughs, its flavor and texture come more from fat than from
yeast, making it a bit like a cross between a pizza dough and a pie crust. I’ve found that
equal parts butter and lard make for the best flavor and texture. Note that this dough
needs to proof for at least 24 hours; it will be even better if left for up to 48 hours.
butter, preferably 82 percent
butterfat, cut into small pieces,
at room temperature
202 grams (3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoon)
ice water, plus more as needed
9 grams (2 teaspoons) fine sea salt
For baker’s percentages, see page 302.
chicago
Add the salt and mix on the lowest speed for 1 minute to combine.
Check the bottom of the bowl for any unincorporated flour. Turn the dough
over and press it into the bottom of the bowl to pick up any stray pieces.
Stop the mixer, pull the dough off the hook, and scrape down the sides
and bottom of the bowl. If there is still unincorporated flour at the
bottom of the bowl, sprinkle with a very small amount of water and mix
for 1 minute.
Use a bowl scraper to transfer the dough to an unfloured work surface,
then knead it for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth (see Kneading the Dough,
page 24). Cover the dough with a damp dish towel and let it rest at room
temperature for 1 hour.
Use a dough cutter to loosen the dough and move it to the scale. You will
need 27 ounces (770 grams) of dough. You may have a little extra dough.
Form the dough into a ball (see Balling the Dough, page 26) and set it on
a half sheet pan. Wrap the pan airtight with a double layer of plastic wrap,
sealing the wrap well under the pan. Put the pan in a level spot in the
refrigerator and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

Note on Making Vegetarian Deep-Dish Dough: You can substitute 18 grams

4.5 grams (1 1/2 teaspoons) active
dry yeast
70 grams (1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon)
warm water (80°F to 85°F)
430 grams (3 1/2 cups) all-purpose
flour with 12 percent protein,
preferably Ceresota
23 grams (2 1/2 tablespoons)
medium-grind cornmeal
9 grams (1 tablespoon) diastatic malt
Put the yeast in a small bowl, add the warm water, and whisk vigorously vegetable shortening for the lard.
for 30 seconds. The yeast should dissolve in the water and the mixture
should foam. If it doesn’t and the yeast granules float, the yeast is “dead”
and the mixture should be discarded. Begin again with a fresh amount
of yeast and water.
Combine the flour, cornmeal, and malt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the dough hook. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, add
the lard and butter and mix for 1 minute.
Pour in most of the ice water, reserving about 2 tablespoons, followed
by the yeast-water mixture. Pour the reserved water into the yeast bowl,
swirl it around to dislodge any bits of yeast stuck to the bowl, and add
to the mixer.

«« 74 «« «« 75 ««
Chicago Stuffed Dough
Makes 41 ounces (1174 grams), enough for 1 Fully Stuffed pizza
This dough is the same one I use for deep-dish pizza, but I’ve given you the proportions
you’ll need to make one and a half times as much of it, so you will have enough for both
the bottom and the top crust.
6.8 grams (2 1/4 teaspoons) active
dry yeast
92 grams (1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
warm water (80°F to 85°F)
645 grams (5 1/3 cups) all-purpose
flour with 12 percent protein,
preferably Ceresota
34 grams (1/4 cup) medium-grind
cornmeal
13.5 grams (1 1/2 tablespoons)
diastatic malt
27 grams (2 tablespoons) lard, cut into
small pieces, at room temperature
27 grams (2 tablespoons) European-
style unsalted butter, preferably
82 percent butterfat, cut into small
pieces, at room temperature
316 grams (1 1/3 cups) ice water,
plus more as needed
13.5 grams (2 3/4 teaspoons)
fine sea salt
For baker’s percentages, see page 302.
Deep-Dish Tomato Sauce
Makes 2 1/4 cups (510 grams)
chicago
It’s best to make this uncooked sauce when you make your dough and then refrigerate it
overnight so the flavors can come together.
6 ounces (170 grams/2/3 cup) tomato Combine the tomato paste, ground tomatoes, oregano, salt, and oil in a
paste, preferably Saporito Super Heavy deep bowl or other deep container and puree with an immersion
Make the dough as directed for Chicago Deep-Dish Dough (page 74) Pizza Sauce
blender. Stir in the crushed tomatoes.
up to the point where you have kneaded the dough. Then weigh out one
27-ounce (765-gram) piece of dough and one 14-ounce (400-gram) piece 3 ounces (85 grams/1/4 cup plus
2 tablespoons) ground tomatoes,
The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days before using.
of dough. Cover both pieces with a damp dish towel and let rest at room
preferably 7/11 or DiNapoli
temperature for 1 hour.
3/4 teaspoon (.5 grams) dried oregano
Form the pieces into balls (see Balling the Dough, page 26), set the balls
3 inches apart on a half sheet pan, and wrap the pan and refrigerate as Pinch of fine sea salt
directed for Chicago Deep-Dish Dough. 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 grams) extra virgin
olive oil
Note on Making Vegetarian Deep-Dish Dough: You can substitute 18 grams
vegetable shortening for the lard. 9 ounces (255 grams/1 1/3 cups)
hand-crushed tomatoes (see page 28)
«« 76 «« «« 77 ««
Chicago Deep Dish with Spinach and Ricotta, continued
9 ounces (255 grams) provolone
cheese, thinly sliced (13 slices)
5 ounces (140 grams) part-skim
mozzarella cheese, shredded
(11/4 cups)
2 cups (455 grams) Deep-Dish
Tomato Sauce (page 77), warm
Dried oregano, for dusting
Garlic Oil (page 29), for drizzling
Sprinkle with a light dusting of pecorino and the garlic. Arrange the
provolone slices over the top. Run the rolling pin over the lip of the pan
to cut away the excess dough. If the dough shrinks back, use your fingers
to press the dough around the inside of the pan, extending it to the lip.
Place the pan on the bottom stone. Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the
pan 180 degrees, and continue to bake for another 12 minutes, until the
cheese is melted and the crust is a rich golden brown.
Meanwhile, put the ricotta in a pastry bag with a 1/4-inch opening or
plain tip.
If the reserved spinach is cold, warm it in a pan or in the microwave.
Take the pan out of the oven and sprinkle the shredded mozzarella over
the top of the pizza. Place on the top stone for 2 minutes to melt the
shredded cheese.
Remove from the oven and run a long metal spatula around the inside of
the pan to loosen the pizza from the pan. Then, using the spatula, lift an
edge and check the bottom of the crust. It should be browned and crisp.
If it needs more time, return the pan to the bottom stone for 1 minute.
Using the spatula, and being careful not to pierce the bottom of the
crust, lift the pizza from the pan and transfer it to a cutting board. Using
a rocking cutter or a serrated knife, cut the pizza into 6 large wedges,
leaving them in place. Spoon the sauce over the top and spread it to the
edges with a small offset spatula. Pipe quarter-size dollops of ricotta onto
the pizza and garnish with the reserved spinach. Finish with a dusting of
pecorino and of oregano and a drizzle of garlic oil.
«« 82 ««
Sautéed Spinach
Makes 1 1/2 cup (285 grams)
Olive oil, for sautéing Heat a generous film of oil in your largest skillet over medium-high heat.
chicago
1 pound (455 grams) baby spinach
Shake any excess water from the spinach and add several handfuls to the
skillet, leaving enough room to turn the spinach. Sprinkle with a pinch
Fine sea salt and freshly ground each of salt and pepper. As the spinach wilts and room is made, turn the
black pepper
spinach and add more to the skillet. When you have cooked about half of
the spinach, transfer it to a strainer or colander.
Discard the liquid in the skillet, wipe it dry, and heat another generous
film of oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the remaining spinach the same
way and add to the strainer. Drain the spinach well, squeezing it gently
between your hands.
The spinach can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for
up to 1 day.
Pizza Pans
For pizzas baked in pans, my choice is always black Avoid using water or soap. If a pan rusts, pour about
1/4 cup of salt into it and heat it in a 500°F oven for
steel, not stainless or aluminum, which don’t promote
thorough, even browning. I’ve given more specific pan about 30 minutes. Remove it from the oven and let it
recommendations throughout the book in chapters sit until it’s cool enough to handle, then use paper
with pan pizza recipes. towels to scour the pan, with the salt still in it, until
there are no traces of rust.
Treat any steel pan just like you would a cast-iron
skillet. If it’s not preseasoned, wipe it with a thin If you find that the pizza sticks to the pan when you’re
coating of vegetable oil and heat it in a 500°F oven baking it, reseason the pan as follows: scrape it clean
for about 1 hour. and wipe a thin film of oil over the surface. Put the pan
back in the still-warm oven and let it sit until the oven
Clean steel pans by first lightly scraping with a plastic is cool.
dough cutter and then wiping with a paper towel.
«« 83 ««
Sausage, continued Steak Lover’s, 260–61 Quattro Forni, 143–45
Italian Stallion, 104–5 Steels, 5 St. Louis, 66–67
La Regina, 135–37 Stones St. Louis Tomato Sauce, 67
Meatball Calzone, 272–73 cleaning, 38 Sausage Pizza, 30
Meatball Gigante, 289 on the grill, 267 Sicilian Tomato Sauce, 126
Meatballs, 287–88 steels vs., 5 Tomato Sauce, 64
Mortadella and Cheese Calzonewich, 274–75 Stuffed pizza wood fire–roasted cherry, 206
New Yorker, 51–52 Chicago Stuffed Dough, 76 Copyright © 2014 by Tony Gemignani
Pepperoni and Sausage, 127 Fully Stuffed, 87–91 V Photographs copyright © 2014 by Sara Remington
Pizza Romana, 227–29 making, 84–85 Vasconcelos, Thiago, 51
St. Louis, 66–67 Syrups Veal All rights reserved.
Sausage Pizza, 30 Campari Syrup, 163 Fully Stuffed, 87–91
Sausage Roll, 281–82 Simple Syrup, 67 Meatball Calzone, 272–73 Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random
suggestions for, 57 Meatball Gigante, 289 House LLC, New York, a Penguin Random House Company.
Sweet Fennel Sausage, 54 T Meatballs, 287–88
www.crownpublishing.com
See also Pepperoni Tiga, 46 Vermouth
Sewell, Ike, 67 Tomatoes, 17–18 The Made Man, 111 www.tenspeed.com
Sicilian pizza After-School Ciabatta Pizza, 300
The Brooklyn, 125 Barcelona, 237–39 W Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC.
Burratina di Margherita, 129–31 The Brooklyn, 125 Water, 12
definition of, 116 Burratina di Margherita, 129–31 Watercress
Grandma, 139–40 Calabrese “Diavola,” 222–23 Fig, Almond, and Monterey Jack, 171–72
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
history of, 115–16 Cast-Iron Skillet, 93–95 The Wise Guy, 112
La Regina, 135–37 Chicago Deep Dish with Calabrese and Wood-fired pizza, 194–201 Gemignani, Tony.
making, 116 Fennel Sausages, 78–79 The pizza bible : the world’s favorite pizza styles, from Neapolitan, deep-dish, wood-fired, Sicilian, calzones and focaccia
parbaking dough for, 122–24 Chicago Deep Dish with Spinach and Ricotta, Y
Pepperoni and Sausage, 127 81–83 Yeast to New York, New Haven, Detroit, and more / Tony Gemignani.
Purple Potato and Pancetta, 133–34 Cracker-Thin Tomato Sauce, 99 activating, 23 pages cm
Quattro Forni, 143–45 Cracker-Thin with Fennel Sausage, 98–99 types of, 12–13
1. Pizza. I. Title.
Sicilian Dough without Starter, 120 Deep-Dish Tomato Sauce, 77
Sicilian Dough with Starter, 118–19 Detroit Red Top, 63–64 Z TX770.P58G45 2014
Sicilian Tomato Sauce, 126 Early Girl Tomato Sauce, 141 Zucchini 641.82’48—dc23
tips for, 117 Focaccina, 297 Greco, 251–52
Simple Syrup, 67 Frank Nitti, 101–2 2014015999
Smokevitch, Jeff, 63 Fully Stuffed, 87–91
Spinach Grandma, 139–40 Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-605-8
Chicago Deep Dish with Spinach and Ricotta, hand-crushed, 28 eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-606-5
81–83 La Regina, 135–37
Frank Nitti, 101–2 Lucca, 217–18
Sautéed Spinach, 83 Margherita, 205–6 Printed in China
Spinach Calzone, 272–73 Margherita Extra, 207
Squash Marinara, 208 Design by Janet Mumford
Greco, 251–52 Meatball Marinara, 290
Starters Napoletana Tomato Sauce, 189 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Bran Starter, 175 New Jersey Tomato Pie, 61
handling, 47 New Yorker, 51–52
making, 13 New York–New Jersey Tomato Sauce, 28, 53
First Edition
Poolish, 47 Pepperoni and Sausage, 127
Rye Poolish, 152 Pepperoni Pizza, 30
Tiga, 46 Pizza Romana, 227–29
using, 13 Prosciutto and Arugula Pizza, 38

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