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The Denver Post

Summer
Getaways
Easy A long
pedaling weekend
around in Crested
Grand Butte
Junction
Plus: Arts events,
Lakeside dude ranches,
hot springs
camping and a literary
tour of Colorado
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 3

Contents

Country roads provide a spectacular view of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, clouds and sky in the San Luis Valley near Hooper. Joe Amon, Denver Post file

STORIES FEATURES
Easy pedaling around A solo road trip | 4 Giving back | 15
Grand Junction | 8 Sustainable retreats | 12 Northern Utah | 20
Dude ranches | 16 Geologic wonders | 23
A long weekend in Dining along the way |24 Literary Colorado | 32
Roadside attractions | 28 Divine highs
Crested Butte | 34 Pagosa Springs | 40 and devilish lows| 37
The Creative Corridor | 50 Hot springs | 44
Vacation rentals | 45
Lakeside camping Vacation with the arts | 56
Extravagant vacations | 54
Colorado travel bucket list | 60
in Colorado | 46 Casino playground | 59
Calendar | 63
PHOTOS
ON THE COVER:
Tylor Nation enjoys the view from Lookout Mountain. Colorado wildlife | 38-39
Daniel Brenner, Special to the Denver Post Parting shot | 66
4 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

The surprising perks of a


solo journey on open roads

By Cynthia Barnes Special to The Denver Post Visitors tour the


dwellings at Cliff
It was planned as the perfect Rocky Mountain road trip — a fast circle through unexplored parts of the Palace in Mesa
Verde National
state to celebrate my birthday, cement a relatively new romance and shake off a season of almost Park, one of the
unbearable loss. All my German boyfriend has to do is make time in his crazy schedule, show up in his expansive ruins
built under
convertible, and drive. Naturally, we break up two days before departure. After checking rental car rates massive overhangs
on six days and a thousand-plus miles, it’s time to beg on Facebook. “Does anyone have an extra car?” carved from
lonesome cliffs.
“Can you drive a shift? We’ve got an old down from Kenosha Pass, the South Park Joe Amon,
Saab sitting around.” I give thanks to (and valley is green pastures, snow-capped Denver Post file
for!) my generous friends, decide to call summit views, and the perfect place for a
the coupe “Jethro,” buy an America The pit stop. The road widens (slightly) in Jef-
Beautiful Parks Pass at REI, crank AMZY’s ferson, where Pony Espresso (face-
“Sorry Not Sorry” and hit the highway. Let book.com/JeffersonPonyEspresso/) and
the Saab story begin. the adjacent Moose Caboose offer suste-
Denver to Pagosa Springs is five beauti- nance and, if you have a quarter, a porta-
ful hours on U.S. 285, longer if you like to potty. I do not have a quarter, but the baris-
drink a lot of coffee, which I do. Curling ta spots me. Colorado grows good people.
6 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

The hot springs border the San Juan River in Pagosa Springs. Amy Brothers, Denver Post file

lonesome cliffs and their melancholy ruins named Retro Inn (2040 E. Main St., 970-565-
sooner. The kivas seem mysterious and 3738, retroinnmesaverde.com). From the
exotic, but the Ancestral Puebloans who fiberglass Elvis to the gleaming laminate
crafted shelter and ceremonial spaces in lobby, this old-fashioned but completely
the sandstone alcoves 1,400 years ago remodeled motel is straight out of “I Love
shared the same struggles we face today. Lucy.” Metal chairs outside each door en-
Scarce resources. The deaths of loved courage guests to enjoy a neighborly chat,
ones. Goblin exes. maybe share a beer or two.
The morning is comfortably overcast, The next morning on this whirlwind
perfect for climbing about the kivas. But tour, I say goodbye ... but only after a bis-
the rains return, and it’s time to move on. cuit-filled breakfast at Pippo’s Cafe (100 W.
The 15-mile drive down to the park en- Main St., 970-565-6039, pipposcafe98.wix-
trance is hairier than the ascent -- espe- site.com/mysite/menu). A locals’ favorite,
cially now that I’m on the outside lane and the diner is run down but homey, with
can see just how far I’d plummet. But friendly service and hearty portions. The
Jethro holds the hairpins, and with deep cop who spared me a ticket last night is
breaths and lots of downshifting we make also eating, and gives me a slow nod of
it out of Mesa Verde. warning. “Yes, officer. And thanks for the
I didn’t choose to spend the night in Cor- recommendation, officer.” The Saab and I
tez just because I heard they have a good depart at a sedate 25 miles an hour.
Thai restaurant, but ... OK I did. Tiny and There are a lot of things to recommend
packed, with a one-hour wait, Thai Cortez solo road trips. One is that you can blast
A kiva dug within the Sun Point Pueblo, along the Mesa Top (1430 E. Main St. Suite D, 970-5643151, thai- Snoop Dogg with zero judgment from a
Loop in Mesa Verde National Park. Joe Amon, Denver Post file cortez.wordpress.com) almost makes this guy who listens to Wagner. Another is that
former Bangkok resident burst into spicy you can yell “Oh my God!” to yourself and
tears of joy. Stuffed with duck curry and swerve every few miles to take photos that
shrimp dumplings, I retire to the aptly in no way capture the majesty of the
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 7

mountains around you. After much of


both, I make it to Telluride.
That 20 people a day aren’t run over in
the middle of Main Street while gawking at
the grandeur is both a miracle and a testa-
ment to the town’s drivers. Nestled in a
box canyon, the Victorian silver-rush vil-
lage is supervised by Bridal Veil Falls, where
the San Miguel River spills 365 feet
straight down, full of foam and fury. You
can hike or drive to the top, but staring
from the street until someone honks also
guarantees a pretty spectacular view.
I remove myself from the roadway and
check in at the Hotel Telluride (199 Cornet
Lane, 970) 369-1188, thehoteltellu-
ride.com), a boutique beauty with an ele-
gant Alpine feel. There’s an assortment of
magazines in the lobby, including “The
Economist.” This week’s cover story? “The
German Problem.” My loud laugh startles
the concierge.
The hotel’s a great base for exploring
downtown, which ticks off the tourist-lur-
ing boxes: charming architecture, jaw-drop-
ping surroundings, expensive shops, celeb-
rities. Amid the aspens and the columbines,
almost every fence and railing has the same
sign. “NO Bikes. NO Pets. NO Attachments. The view from the penthouse at the Limelight Hotel in Aspen. Provided by the Limelight Hotel
Enforced by The Town of Telluride.” For a
moment, the manic pace and the glorious
surroundings softened the blows of the
previous months: My bike was stolen. My
cats died. Both of them. And also my mom.
Telluride, honey. Relax. I have none of
these things.
I write Telluride an IOU for a return and
swing north to Aspen, at last. I usually stay
in stylish but sleepier Snowmass, but want
some birthday glitz. The Limelight Hotel (355
S. Monarch St., 970-925-3025, limelightho-
tels.com/aspen) does not disappoint, with
sleek rooftop terraces and an après-worthy
lounge. (Bonus: A sister hotel opens in
Snowmass next season.) It’s just a quick
stroll to the new-ish Aspen Art Museum (637
E. Hyman Ave., 970-925-8050, aspenartmu-
seum.org), which delivers on its hype. A
burger and a bloody Mary at the J Bar (in
Hotel Jerome, 330 E. Main St., 970-429-7674, The Aspen Art Museum displays exhibitions of international
hoteljerome.aubergeresorts.com/dining/)? contemporary art. Photo by Michael Moran/OTTO, Provided by Aspen Art
Well, it is my birthday. Museum
The next morning, Aug. 1, is Colorado’s
birthday. I’m strolling downtown, but
mentally already driving back to Denver
when I hear a familiar voice — a fun fling Bridal Veil Falls spills down from 365
from a few years back, still single. Lunch? feet at the end of the box canyon
Oh, all right. Stay in town a while longer? holding the Victorian silver-rush
Well, it is Colorado’s birthday. village, Telluride. Thinkstock by Getty
Repeat this road trip, regardless of rela- Images
tionship status? Most definitely! Does any-
one have an extra car?

The patio of Riff Raff Brewing


Company, which uses geothermal heat
for brewing, in Pagosa Springs. The
brewery calls it “Earth Powered Beer.”
Joe Amon, Denver Post file
8 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Pedal to the next treat


on the Riverfront Trail

By Nancy Lofholm Special to The Denver Post itself. Along the way you will enjoy riverside A cyclist begins
vistas that will drop, not elevate, your blood the ascent in
You’ve come to the Grand Valley with your road bike to pressure. There are patches of towering cot- Colorado
tonwoods for shade and occasional benches National
tackle the iconic rides: You’ve huffed and sweated over for contemplation. Riding west from Grand Monument, near
Junction brings long stretches with views of
the Colorado National Monument, or maybe granny- the national monument. Add in the short
Grand Junction,
during Ride the
geared the grueling 13-mile climb up Little Park Road. Walter Walker State Wildlife Area loop for good
Rockies.
bird spotting. Riding east is a little more bu-
That was yesterday. Now, how about doing colic, a little less desert-y. You will spin by Callaghan O'Hare,
what the local cyclists do for a day of in-the- cow pastures, grazing horses and a field of Denver Post file
saddle R&R: take a spin on the ever-improv- rusted antique vehicles lined up like museum
ing, paved Colorado Riverfront Trail. Instead of pieces. Around Corn Lake you can check the
trying to get from point A to B with Strava progress of scads of worm-dangling anglers.
goading you to go faster, look at this as a no- Regardless of which way you go, the best
rush, enjoyable ride, with calorie replenish- place to begin is with a stop at Enstrom Can-
ment as a primary goal. dies. Inside the cavernous candy factory in
Simply riding the more than 25-mile-long downtown Grand Junction is a sweet little
trail along the Colorado River is a treat in coffee shop where you can grab a pastry or
10 T H E D E N V E R P O ST SUM ME R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Fruita, with the Book Cliffs in the distance, is seen from the Colorado National Monument, just south of the Colorado River. Thinkstock by Getty Images

The Colorado Your culinary tour of the Riverfront


River and the Trail is now complete … unless you opt for
Riverfront Trail one more stop back where it all began:
wind through the Enstrom Candies. There is nothing better
Grand Valley in after a hot summer spin than a dark choco-
late malt. Think of it like this: it’s good for
Palisade on a
your training, because all that eating guar-
sunny summer antees you will need to get back on the
afternoon. bike tomorrow for serious pedaling fueled
Thinkstock by nothing more than a packet of energy
by Getty Images goo. And when you think of your Colorado
Riverfront Trail ride, you will have a lot of
delicious memories.

PLACES TO GO
Enstrom Candies
enstrom.com. 701 Colorado Ave., Grand
Junction. 970-242-1655. Opens 8 a.m. Satur-
day and weekdays, 10 a.m. Sunday
Coffee drinks, including a righteous cap-
puccino. Try a cinnamon roll, a slab-sized
scone or a well-stuffed breakfast burrito.
For after rides, try an ever-changing menu
of homemade ice creams, or have the
friendly staff whip it into a shake or malt.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 11

Summertime
Riverfront
Biking
Trail tips
• Grab a Riverfront
Trail map at a local
bike shop so you
can navigate a few
tricky sections.
• Leave early
enough in the
morning to avoid
the midday heat,
and bring plenty
of water.
• Mind your
manners. The trail
is not the place for
high speed or to be
frightening
walkers or toddlers
on Striders. Bells
The Peach Street Distillers in Palisade serves up bloody Marys in quart jars bristling with greenery. Denver Post file are a good thing.
• Plan for morning
headwinds
heading into
Bestslope Coffee Company
bestslopecoffee.com. 129 N. Peach St., Fruita. Palisade. It is just a
970-639-8622. Opens 7 a.m. fact of life that
Coffee geeks will think they have just winds funnel down
rolled into heaven. Take your pick here of from the Grand
coffee alchemy: French press, Aeropress, Mesa.
Chemex, Kalita Wave and Nitro brews
with in-house roasted beans. If they aren’t • Follow the trail,
sold out, try the brown-butter chocolate and events along
chip cookies. it, at oneriver
The Palisade Café 11.0 front.org/trails.
palisadecafe11.com. 113 W. Third St., Pali- — Nancy Lofholm
sade. 970-464-2888. Open 8 a.m., Saturday
and Sunday, 11:30 Wednesday-Friday, closed
Monday and Tuesday
True farm-to-table food (even the pottery
dishes are locally made). Try eggs benedict
strata, fancy grilled cheese or torrijas — an
oxymoronic Spanish French toast.
Peach Street Distillers
peachstreetdistillers.com. 144 Kluge Ave.,
Palisade. 970-464-1128. Open 12 p.m.
Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m. Sunday
Try a legendary Bloody Mary, or dive
into a full slate of innovative cocktails and
sodas made with local fruits. Often you
will find a food truck parked alongside the Richard Rose, left, enjoys dinner with friend Mike Pacini and his daughter Charlotte
distillery serving everything from wood- at The Hot Tomato in Fruita. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
fired pizza to fried perogies.
Hot Tomato Pizzeria
hottomatopizza.com. 124 N. Mulberry St.,
Fruita. 970-858-1117. Open 11 a.m. Tuesday-
Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday
Try a creative pie like the Icarus, the
Stinky Deluxe or the long-time favorite
Granny’s Pesto. Or go for the addicting
stromboli, a can’t miss at $3.75 a slice.
Wash it down with an award-winning brew
from the local Copper Club or your favor-
ite New Belgium or Odell hops.
12 T HE D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Sustainable stays

By Katie Shapiro Special to The Denver Post Horseback riding


is one of the many
Here’s a new trend to get behind: farm-to-table-to-bed. Recognizing a need to pursue sustainability activities
available at Smith
and conservation awareness, Colorado’s guest farms and ranches are offering everything from argri- Fork Ranch near
focused luxurious escapes to an immersive itinerary on a cattle ranch. Crawford. Greg
Poschman, Provided
by Smith Fork Ranch
The state ranks fourth in the nation for generations, and welcomes guests to what
agritourism — more than 800 farms and it calls a “recreational oasis” where out-
ranches open their doors to visitors for door activities are matched with a health
overnight stays and hands-on programs. and wellness program, cooking classes and
We’ve narrowed it down a bit, but which- sustainability seminars. Stay in one of the
ever you choose, don’t forget to bring an historic, cozy cabins lining the banks of the
open mind about getting down and dirty. Gunnison River or in a tent option that’s
cantilevered directly over the water. Chef
Gunnison River Farms Bill Frantz prepares group meals with a
Austin (near Orchard City) focus on clean eating from the livestock,
For a sweet escape, head for the quaint fruit and vegetables grown and raised on
southwest town that’s grown some of Col- the farm, which also operates an organic
orado’s best peaches for the past century. farm share program, Heirloom. From $200
This working, bio-dynamic orchard is fam- per person per night, gunnisonriver-
ily owned and operated, spanning three farms.com.
14 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

At the Home Ranch, outside of Steamboat, the on-site organic garden, greenhouse and ranch-raised livestock fuel the chef’s efforts in the kitchen. Don
Tudor, provided by Home Ranch

The sixth- earlier start for seeds to sprout. Come


generation May, when the rustic-meets-luxury get-
Sunfire Ranch in away opens for the season, Chef Marcus
the Crystal River Parrott’s harvest rivals the farm stands in
Valley, nowa nearby Hotchkiss. Chickens and ducks
provide fresh eggs every morning for
lodge and
guests before horseback riding, hiking,
restaurant called biking, fishing and more. In addition to
the Guest House, unlimited outdoor adventures, guests have
opened earlier access to cooking classes, gourmet meals
this year. Provided and an award-winning wine cellar. Hus-
by The Guest House band-and-wife owners Marley and Linda
Hodgson (founders of Ghurka leather
goods) say it best: “farm-to-table isn’t a
trend here — it’s a way of life.” From $625
per person per night (until June 9), $5,100
per person per week (seven-day stay re-
quired until Sept. 2), smithforkranch.com.
Ranchlands Camp
Mosca
The 103,000 acre Medano Zapata Ranch
ranch-raised livestock. Each week, master is owned by The Nature Conservancy and
gardener Allison Mecklenburg and her Great Sand Dunes National Park, with
crew host farm tours, and the farm kitchen Ranchlands managing day-to-day land
fires up an outdoor brick oven for dinner operations. Through the partnership, the
and brunch. For the ultimate experience, 103,000 acre property — cushy accommo-
book the culmination celebration of High dations included — offers an opportunity
Mountain Harvest Weeks (Sept. 2-9) for a to experience life on a working cattle and
weeklong itinerary focused on farming and bison ranch. As one of many workshops
culinary activities. From $8,380 per two led by renowned ranchers, environmental-
persons per week (Sunday-Sunday stay ists, artists, photographers and other ex-
required), homeranch.com. perts throughout the season, Branding
Week (June 10-17) immerses guests in the
Smith Fork Ranch oldest traditions of the wild West. Learn to
Crawford wrestle a calf and vaccinate and ear tag the
Smith Fork Ranch, surrounded by more animals. After enough hands-on experi-
than a million acres of national forest and ence throughout the week, set out on
Chef Jonathan Gillespie creates inventive wilderness, and about midway between horseback to help check fences and water,
Colorado comfort cuisine from the Aspen and Telluride, has just finished an and monitor herd health while moving and
garden, greenhouse and livestock at the expansion project of its organic farmstead. gathering cattle. The finale? A full-day
Home Ranch. Denise Jones, Provided by Home A hothouse was added next to the green- branding session. From $2,950 per person
Ranch house for winter growing, allowing an per week, ranchlands.com.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 15

Travel and give back while having fun


By Rachel Walker
Special to The Denver Post

We play hard here in the Centen-


nial State — to the point that outsid-
ers occasionally look askance at our
Peter Pan lifestyles. But these days,
it’s easier than ever to give back to
good causes. Here’s how.

Ragnar Trail Relay,


Snowmass
Cause: First Descents, a nonprofit
that provides outdoor adventures for
young adults impacted by cancer.
Date: June 8-9, 2018
Details: First Descents is the char-
ity partner for Ragnar Trail Snow-
mass, where teams of eight (or four)
individuals rotate through a series of
three challenging trail loops that
start and finish at “Ragnar Village”
at the base of Snowmass. Over a 24-
hour period, each individual will
have run 14.3 miles and gained 776
feet of elevation. Participants can
join First Descents teams to raise
money for the nonprofit.
Cost/fundraising commitment: Big City Mountaineers runs trips through Summit for Someone up Longs Peak and other mountains, from
Registration is free when you join Washington to New Hampshire. Steve Nehf, Denver Post file
First Descents teams; fundraising
commitment is $500 for individuals
and $4,000 for teams of eight. Summit for Someone
Info: runragnar.com/event-detail/ Cause: Big City Mountaineers
trail/snowmass_co; First Descents Date: Various
contact: Andrew.coulter@FirstDes- Details: Big City Mountaineers is a
cents.org Golden-based nonprofit that gives
low-income youth-in-need outdoor
Climate Ride Colorado experiences. The Summit for Some-
Cause: Climate change, the envi- one program offers guided mountain
ronment and alternative transporta- expeditions throughout the United
tion. States; Climbers register for guided
Date: Aug. 25-30, 2018 expeditions and agree to raise a spe-
Details: Climate Ride’s six-day cific amount of money that will be
inaugural Colorado tour will begin donated to Big City Mountaineers
at the Nature Conservancy’s Car- programming. In 2018 Summit for
penter Ranch, near Hayden. Riders Someone climbs are taking place on
will pedal from there to Steamboat Wyoming’s Grand Teton, Washing-
and through the Yampa River Valley ton’s Mount Baker, Colorado’s Longs
before crossing the Continental Di- Peak, Oregon’s Mount Hood, Califor-
vide through Rocky Mountain Na- nia’s Mounts Whitney and Shasta,
tional Park and eventually ending in and a hut-to-hut Presidential Range
Boulder. Most meals are provided, traverse in New Hampshire. Climb-
and lodging is a mix of camping and ers are responsible for the full fund-
staying in shared lodging (riders can raising commitment for their climb as
opt to stay in hotels every night, and well as other costs and incidentals,
event organizers will help coordi- such as transportation, lodging, per-
nate logistics). The ride is limited to sonal gear and meals that are not cov-
40 people and will also feature talks ered by the guide service or the non-
by prominent speakers over the profit.
course of the tour. Total mileage Cost/fundraising commitment:
over six days: 250 miles. You’ve got There is no cost to register, but
this. climbers are encouraged to donate at
Cost/fundraising commitment: least $50 toward their funds raised;
Registration fee is $150; fundraising fundraising commitment varies by
commitment is $3,200 per person. climb and is between $1,000 and
Info: climateride.org/events/ $3,000. Eric Larsen organizes food for a 11-day, 600-mile trek across Colorado to
Colorado Info: bigcitymountaineers.org/ raise money for Big City Mountaineers.
fundraise/summit-for-someone Cliff Grassmick, Daily Camera file
16 T H E D E N V E R P O ST SUM ME R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Saddle up at these guest


ranches around the state

By Kim Fuller Special to The Denver Post Leo the horse


takes in the view
About an hour from C Lazy U Ranch, we turned on the country music. It wasn’t a long drive from Vail of the Willow
Creek Reservoir
— less than two hours, long enough that the sun had time to slowly dip away from the spacious sky. traveling the
Every mile toward Granby seemed to erase another piece of what had been a hectic week, one I could Wilson Trail with
a group of guests
now leave behind to the tune of “Wide Open Spaces.” from C Lazy U
I felt a little giddy as we drew closer to salad and surf and turf, with strawberry Ranch just West
the ranch, happily wearing the cowboy hat shortcake for dessert. We ate and then of Granby. The
that usually just collects dust on a shelf in cozied up for the night, lulled to sleep by ranch has been
my closet. The dirt road welcomed us first, the crackling flames. tending to guest
followed by trees draped with twinkle I had never been to a dude ranch, and it since 1946. Denver
lights and a warm greeting from ranch had been quite a few years since I’d ridden Post file
hand supervisor Susanna Graybill, who a horse. After a homestyle breakfast of
goes by Suz, as soon as we pulled up to the eggs, sausage and toast, paired with some
main lodge. friendly conversation with fellow guests at
My boyfriend, Bobby, and I checked in our communal table, Bobby and I headed
and headed to our quaint cabin, which was to the barn to get ready to ride.
named Cresta, lit a fire and poured some Many families come to ranches such as
wine. Because of our late arrival, the staff this one for a full week, making a summer
had packaged up a delectable dinner of camp out of the stay: Children often have
18 T HE D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Arena Games at Sundance Trail Ranch, one of the smallest of the Early morning light hits head wrangler Bill Fisher from the horse
Colorado dude ranches. Provided by Sundance Trail barn at the C Lazy U Ranch. Denver Post file

Guests at the Bar


Lazy J Guest C Lazy U Ranch
Ranch Angela and This all-inclusive guest ranch in Granby
Martin Reilly has high-class amenities alongside an au-
nearby visit the thentic country atmosphere. Come as a
family or a couple and enjoy cozy cabins,
Hot Sulphur
hearty meals, daily trail rides, and an array
Springs Resort of outdoor activities throughout the year.
and Spa after a 3- 3640 Colorado 125, Granby, 970-887-
hour horseback 3344, www.clazyu.com
ride. Joe Amon,
Denver Post file Rawah Guest Ranch
Located just south of the Colorado-Wyo-
ming border, this family escape sits at
8,400 feet in the pristine Laramie River
Valley. Activities such as horseback riding,
hiking, fly fishing and a full children’s pro-
gram with counselors are available keep
guests of all ages entertained during their
stay at Rawah.
11447 County Road 103, Jelm, 800-510-
7071, rawahranch.com
Vista Verde Ranch
While the atmosphere of Vista Verde
highlights Colorado’s rustic aesthetic, ac-
commodations and cuisine at this ranch
are on the luxurious side. For those seek-
ing adventure, the ranch launched fat bik-
ing as part of its winter activity line-up,
and has new top-of-the-line mountain
bikes for summer riding.
58000 Cowboy Way, Clark, 970-879-
3858, www.vistaverde.com
Colorado Cattle Company
and Guest Ranch
Boasting the largest herd of riding hors-
es in Colorado, Colorado Cattle Company
is for those looking to live out their cow-
boy dreams. Guests can participate in
Cowboy School and take lessons on skills
like roping.
70008 Weld County Road 132, Raymer,
970-437-5345, coloradocattlecompany.com
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 19
Sundance Trail Guest Ranch
Rocky Mountain views surround this
property, which is one of the smallest of
the Colorado dude ranches. Sundance
Trail is pet friendly and offers guests a
variety of daily activities as well as special
events like murder-mystery weekends.
17931 W. County Road 74e, Red Feather
Lakes, 970-224-1222, sundancetrail.com
Black Mountain
Colorado Dude Ranch
While activities like rafting and camping
are offered at Black Mountain Ranch, the
experience is focused on horseback riding,
along with activities like lassoing and cat-
tle driving. This ranch also offers adult-
only weeks throughout the summer.
4000 Conger Mesa Road, McCoy, 970-
653-4226, blackmtnranch.com
Colorado Trails Ranch
At this ranch outside of Durango, kids
and teens have a lot of activity options,
like “power tubing” on Vallecito Reservoir.
For those looking to explore their inner
artist, a painting workshop is offered here
in the summer.
12161 County Road 240, Durango, 800-
323-3833, coloradotrails.com
Harmel’s Ranch Resort
Nestled in the Gunnison National For-
est, Harmel’s has approximately 1.6 million Local cowboys showed off riding and roping skills to the guest of the Smith Fork Ranch during a cowgirl weekend.
acres of accessible forest around the Denver Post file,
ranch. With 37 cabins on site, the ranch
can accommodate a large number of peo- The common
ple and is one of the more affordable dude room at the
ranch options in the state. Rawah Lodge,
6748 County Road 742, Almont, 970-641- named for the
1740, www.harmels.com rugged and
Bar Lazy J Guest Ranch majestic snow-
capped
Guests can fall asleep to the sound of the
Colorado River at Bar Lazy J. This is an mountains that
all-inclusive ranch for the whole family rise above the
(the weekly schedule notes that you’ll meet ranch. Tyler Hill,
your horse the evening after your arrival), provided by Rawah
but ranch also offers off-site activities, in- Lodge
cluding hot air ballooning, hiking and golf.
436 County Road 3, Parshall, 970-725-
3437, barlazyj.com
Smith Fork Ranch
Those looking for luxury can check into
Smith Fork Ranch. This property prides
itself on seclusion, comfort, hospitality
and five-star farm-to-table cuisine, all
paired with the Western experience.
45362 Needle Rock Road, Crawford, 970-
921-3454, smithforkranch.com A herd of horses
run down the
The Broadmoor’s Ranch entrance road
at Emerald Valley during the
Those who know The Broadmoor can morning jingle.
rightfully assume that this property is go- The ranchers
ing to carry all the same classic comforts. were transporting
Choose from 13 one-, two- or three-bed- the horses to the
room cabins, and then settle in with activi-
barn after
ties like horseback riding and fly fishing,
or simply soaking in an outdoor hot tub or spending the
reading a good book. night in a field at
1 Lake Ave., Colorado Springs, 866-334- the C Lazy U
3693, broadmoor.com/the-wilderness-ex- Ranch.
periences/the-ranch-at-emerald-valley/ Denver Post file
20 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Adventures in Dinosaurland

By Brittany Anas Special to The Denver Post The Green River


flows through
When it comes to road trips, the southern part of Utah tends Dinosaur National
Monument.
to be a siren that lures intrepid types. But if you’ve been there, Thinkstock by Getty
done Moab, it might be worth giving a second look to our next Images

door neighbor’s northern region.


On a jaunt down that proverbial road
less traveled, I found adventurous turf in
northern Utah, which still has the famed
red rocks but also dinosaur tracks, petro-
glyphs, cliff jumping and a super-scenic
mountain bike trail that traces the rim of
Flaming Gorge.
The best way to describe the trip: Sum-
mer camp, adult edition.
Time travel with
dinosaurs in Vernal
The route: The trip from Denver to Ver-
nal, in northeastern Utah, is 215 miles and
takes about six hours. Travel Interstate 70
west to Colorado 9 north, through Krem-
mling, to U.S. 40 west. Steamboat Springs is
a good midway stop. Snag a patio seat next The dinosaur “rock wall” located inside
to Soda Creek at the Creekside Cafe (131 the visitors center contains hundreds of
11th St., 970-879-4925, creekside-cafe.com), fossils. Utah Office of Tourism
which, depending on how early of a start
you got, serves breakfast or lunch.
From Steamboat, U.S. 40 west takes you
22 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

The area around Flaming Gorge offers outdoor adventures from mountain biking to whitewater rafting and fishing. Thinkstock by Getty Images

You can rent a mountain bike for $36 a day


Find adventure or $20 for a half day and explore nearby
in Flaming Gorge Dowd Mountain. The 10.5-mile trail with
The route: It’s just over an hour from single- and doubletrack runs near the
Vernal to the Flaming Gorge National Recre- southwest portion of Flaming Gorge,
ation Area. Follow U.S. 191 north to Flaming flaunting views of the western portion of
Gorge Road in Sweetwater County. the lake. When the skies are clear, you can
Dinosaurland will give you a good dose see well into Wyoming.
of prehistoric history. The Flaming Gorge Another way to take in the scenery of
region, though, is a wonderland for out- the Flaming Gorge area is by whitewater
door adventure, including mountain bik- rafting along the Green River. For a (some-
ing, whitewater rafting and fishing. what) lazy river, enjoy the Dam to Little
Stay here: Rent a cabin from Red Canyon Hole route, which is 7 miles and takes about
Lodge (2450 Red Canyon Road, Dutch John, 3 hours. The mild whitewater with Class II
Utah, 435-889-3759, redcanyonlodge.com) rapids makes for an easy ride while you
where local wildlife like bull moose might take in views of the red cliffs and Pondero-
make cameos and private lakes on the sa Pines. Don Hatch River Expeditions (don-
property are stocked with trout. The hatchrivertrips.com, 435-789-4316), which
lodge’s proximity to the Flaming Gorge has more than 75 years experience leading
and Green River make it an ideal base- rafting trips in Utah, runs routes below
camp for adventure, as do its amenities. Flaming Gorge Dam.

The Green River below Flaming Gorge Reservoir in


Utah is a great place for fishing. Denver Post file
24 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Make your travels


on I-70 more delicious

By Kim Fuller Special to The Denver Post Springs a great craft food and beer stop. Wine, beer and
The Den’Var Pils is a refreshing yet full- cocktails are
Let’s be real: The journey to and from Denver on Interstate 70 can flavored choice on draft, but only order available at the
the barrel-aged German Macarthur’s bar at Hovey &
be pretty frustrating if you’re dealing with traffic or weather, so it’s Scotch Ale if you’re a passenger on this Harrison. Provided
trip, because it’s packing a big ABV. Snack by Hovey & Harrison
best to plan on some great food and drink breaks along the way. on the Buffalo Chicken Nachos, topped
If you’re heading out for a mountain with a blue-cheese slaw, or pair a brew
getaway or coming home from a grand with house-made bratwurst on a bed of
adventure, here are some establishments braised red cabbage. 1617 Miner St., 720-
where memorable meals are made and the 502-3121, westboundanddown.com
drinks hit the spot — all the way from
Denver to the Utah border. Jenny’s Restaurant
Empire
Westbound & Down Drivers exit the highway and pass
Brewing Company through the town of Empire when they’re
Idaho Springs coming or going from Winter Park, but
Westbound & Down has made Idaho those who stop in for a full meal or slice of
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 25

pie à la mode at Jenny’s Restaurant often


rave about this quaint spot. They don’t
have a website, but word of mouth and a
convenient location keeps the seats at Jen-
ny full throughout the year. 4 W. Park Ave.,
720-579-7190
Bread Bar
Silver Plume
If Front Rangers already know Bread
Bar, it might be because its owners (in-
cluding Colorado Sen. Stephen Fenberg)
take turns commuting up to open the bar
and bartend on the weekends at this cool
cocktail hangout. Every drink is named
after a memorable Silver Plume local who
once was: the Clifford Griffin, for example,
is made with rye whiskey, Colorado ama-
ro, lemon and a red-wine float, and honors
a former mine owner who played violin
from a perch above town and literally dug
his own grave. If you’re hungry, Bread Bar
is now offering pot pies from Denver’s The
Long I Pie, if you can get one before
they’re gone. 1010 Main St., 720-722-7323,
breadbarsp.com
Bread + Salt
Frisco
Breakfast and lunch in Frisco can be
found a few minutes off the highway, at
Bread + Salt on Main Street. Seasonal
scrambles please veggie lovers, and you
can’t go wrong with the Classic Benny. 401
E Main St., 970-668-0902, breadandsalt-
frisco.com
Homemade biscuits at Hovey & Harrison in Edwards. Provided by Hovey & Harrison

Sweet Basil is a
modern
American
restaurant
located in the
heart of the Vail
Village. Scott
Cramer, Provided by
Sweet Basil
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 27

The Hot Tomato


combines beer
and bikes in a
friendly
atmosphere in
Fruita. Helen H.
Richardson, Denver
Post file

Prosit
Avon (and Frisco)
Bavaria doesn’t feel so far away here.
Prosit is a German-style beer hall serving
imported drafts and authentic sausages. A
stein of the Hofbrau Munchen dunkel with
a elk-jalapeno-cheddar sausage is the per-
fect après-adventure order. Pair it with a
freshly baked Bavarian pretzel and Austri-
an liptauer cheese. Avon: 82 E. Beaver
Creek Blvd., 970-949-7730, einprosi-
tavon.com. Frisco: 313 Main St., 970-668-
3688, prostfinebeers.com
Truffle potato pierogis at The Pullman
Hovey & Harrison in Glenwood Springs. Denver Post file
Edwards
This gem just opened in 2017 and has
already established itself as the new com- on refined American comfort food, draw-
munity hang out. Stop in early for a farm ing its dish inspiration from seasonal in-
breakfast and an order of monkey bread to gredients — served with a dash of deca-
share, or come for an afternoon pick-me- dence. Snacks like pickled bacon deviled
up with a tumeric latte. Wine, beer and eggs with maple gastrique draw attention,
cocktails are also available at the bar, and a along with well done classics like The
full selection of grab-and-go prepared Pullman grass-fed burger. 330 Seventh St.,
food, a produce section and homemade 970-230-9234, thepullmangws.com
bread can make road trips more manage-
able. 56 Edwards Village Blvd., Unit 120, Palisade Brewing Company Returning from Winter Park, Clay Binkley
970-446-6830, hoveyandharrison.com Palisade and Menuela Larsen stop for lunch at
Everything you can drink is in Palisade, Jenny's Restaurant in Empire.
Trigo Food Co. and it’s made there, too. From wine to ci- Denver Post file
Gypsum der to spirits and beer, this town’s offer-
It’s kind of a secret, but not for long. In ings invites guests to drink up and stay
Gypsum, across from the high school and awhile (maybe even overnight). Wineries Hot Tomato Pizza
in a big orange food trailer, Trigo Food by tend to be the draw here, but don’t miss Fruita
owner and chef Rodrigo Gastelum has the the Palisade Brewing Company for a Dirty Mountain bikers know where to go after
best street tacos on I-70. Try his barbacoa Hippie dark American wheat and a platter an epic ride in Fruita, and travelers on the
and carne asada tacos, and the pork green of house-smoked pulled-pork nachos. Dur- way into Utah know this is a good spot for
chile. 970-331-4232, 500 U.S. 6 ing harvest season, be sure to grab peaches a last bite on a lonely road. Hot Tomato
at a roadside stand on your way out of Pizza has slices, full pizzas, calzones and
The Pullman town. 200 Peach Ave., 970-464-1462, pali- strombolis, along with local beer and wine.
Glenwood Springs sadebrewingcompany.com It’s all good, but you won’t forget the Hot
If you’re on the west side of Glenwood Mess, a pie made with spicy chipotle pesto
Canyon, The Pullman is a must-stop. Lo- sauce, mozzarella, spinach, tomatoes, ba-
cated just a block from The Hotel Denver con, garlic and blue cheese. 124 N. Mulber-
on Seventh Street, the eatery prides itself ry St., 970-858-1117, hottomatopizza.com
28 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

10 off-the-beaten-path
attractions in Colorado

By Dylan Owens The Denver Post What may be the


world’s largest
When we get bored in our own backyard, our eyes wander to distant lands. You think: Maybe the rub- private key
collection makes
ber tree forest in India could break up the monotony of all of Colorado’s evergreen forests. Surely Turk- the Baldpate Inn
menistan’s maniacal Land of Fairy Tales amusement park would beat another day at Elitch Gardens. unique among
Estes Park lodges.
Loveland Reporter-
Take it from James O’Neill, the chapter quirkiest side, including a “macabre,
Herald file
head of Denver’s branch of Atlas Obscura, strange” historic drinking tour of Denver
a database of the world’s most curious and gazing at the stars overnight at the UFO
attractions: You don’t have to fly halfway watch tower in the southwestern Colorado
across the world to get off the beaten path. town of Hooper (population: 103).
“Denver is one of the most diverse cities However, for as much as Atlas Obscura
(for obscure attractions),” O’Neill, 35, said. wants Coloradans to get off of their com-
“In the same day, you can see Buffalo Bill puter and into the state’s weird expanse,
Cody’s grave and then go to a silo that’s O’Neill also considers himself a gatekeeper
been converted into a recording studio.” for the state’s most secret secrets. So, when
Through Atlas Obscura, O’Neill hosts I asked him about the most off-the-beaten-
events every month to showcase Colorado’s path attraction in Colorado, he demurred.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 29

“I can’t tell you,” he said. “I don’t want


everyone to know about it.”
To find out that secret, you’ll have to get
tight with Atlas Obscura’s Denver chapter.
But O’Neill did leave us with a few of rec-
ommendations for plotting your own
course around Colorado’s fun house of cu-
rios. Find those among our round up of 10
roadside attractions around the state below.
Herkimer the Beetle
Take a pit stop in southwest Colorado
Springs to get a load of Herkimer, the
state’s favorite giant beetle. It was built in
the 1950s as a way to get curious passersby
to swing through the town’s tropical bug
museum/mausoleum, the May Museum of
the Tropics.
710 Rock Canyon Road, Colorado
Springs, 719-576-0450 coloradospringsbug-
museum.com
Major keys
If you lose your keys while staying at
Estes Park’s Baldpate Inn, maybe check
the ceiling. The cozy mountain hotel is
festooned with thousands of keys from
visitors around the world, a practice in-
spired by the 1914 mystery novel “The Sev-
en Keys of Baldpate,” from which the hotel
takes its name.
4900 S. Colorado 7, Estes Park, 970-586-
6151,baldpateinn.com

Above, the giant Hercules beetle at the entrance to the May Natural History Museum, off of Colorado 115 outside of
Colorado Springs, has a name: Herkimer. Denver Post file

Creator Jim Bishop broke ground on the A group of artists refurbished a water tank near Rangely for acoustic recording and concerts. RJ Sangosti,
mystical-looking citadel Bishop’s Castle Denver Post file
some 60 years ago. Daily Record file
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 31

A sign welcomes
visitors to the
UFO Watchtower,
an elevated metal
platform offering
a view the skies,
and perhaps
travelers from
outer space. Andy
Cross, Denver Post file

Giant in a Sombrero sold for scrap in 2013. Thanks to a group of


If you’ve seen Washington, D.C.’s “The citizens who saw it was more than just a
Awakening,” which depicts a giant strug- rust bucket, it’s now the Tank Center for
gling to unearth himself, pay a visit its Sonic Arts. What does that mean? It means
folksy unofficial brother tucked away in you should swing through — Saturdays
Bear Creek Park, a part of Denver’s Fort from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. without an appoint-
Logan neighborhood. A boot, a blue- ment — and hear for yourself.
jeaned knee and a tipped-down sombrero 233 County Road 46, Rangely, 970-368-
— which doubles as a slide — suggest 2657, tanksounds.org
there’s a massive cowboy sleeping just
underneath the surface. Dig him up at your Bishop’s Castle
own risk. Turns out, Colorado has not one but two
3550 S. Raleigh St., Denver, 720-913-1311, Step through the doors to Colorado tanks turned state treasures. It only took
denvergov.org Gators Reptile Park and the first thing 47,000 tons of concrete, rock, metal and
they hand you is a young alligator. Jeff wood to make a water tank in Rye into
Colorado Gator Reptile Park Neumann, The Denver Post Bishop’s Castle. Creator Jim Bishop broke
Home to massive sand dunes, a UFO ground on the mystical-looking citadel
watchtower and a cluster of Buddhist mon- some 60 years ago. Initially conceived as a
asteries, the San Luis Valley is home to one Dunes National Park. There, you’ll find way to impress his wife, his life’s work has
of Colorado’s most interesting pockets of Judy’s (that’s the owner’s name) UFO grown into one of our state’s most curious
civilization. Case in point: The Colorado Watchtower. The set up is little more than attractions.
Gator Reptile Park, in the sub-1,000-person some scaffolding and a dome but has sup- 12705 Colorado 165, Rye, 719-564-4366,
town of Mosca. Learn how to wrestle ga- posedly hosted dozens of UFOs in its de- bishopcastle.org
tors, or let the staff handle it. Just make sure cades of history. Whether or not you be-
you heed visiting hours, lest you run afoul lieve it, thanks to its total lack of light pol- Fork in the road
of its photo-worthy caution sign: “Warning! lution, it at least has a clear line of sight to There’s a time in every road trip when
Trespassers will be delicious!” whatever’s up there. you come to a fork in the road — but never
9162 County Road 9 N, Mosca, colorado- On Colorado 17, 3 miles north of Hoop- one this size. The world’s largest fork — a
gators.com er, 719-378-2296, ufowatchtower.com 40-foot-long, 800-pound chunk of alumini-
um — resides in Creede, along Colorado
UFO Watchtower The Tank 149. It’s a useful pit stop if you’re looking
If Colorado’s mountains and rivers bore If you find yourself on the Western for a leg stretch while driving from, say,
you, well, you’re a weirdo. And in that Slope with a song in your heart, there’s a Hogback Mountain to McClellan Moun-
case, all the more reason to turn your eyes silo in Rangely that’s dying to hear it. Once tain, or have just come into possession of
to the skies over Hooper, a town of around discovered as an acoustic wonder in the the world’s largest bowl of spaghetti.
100 just short drive west of Great Sand ’70s, the one-time water tank was nearly 981 La Garita St., forkcreede.com
32 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Worthy stops on a literary tour


By Emilie Rusch
Special to The Denver Post

Let’s get the bad news out of the


way first, book lovers: There is no
Holt, Colorado. The small Eastern
Plains town that forms the backdrop
of the great Kent Haruf’s “Plain-
song,” “Eventide,” “Benediction” and
“Our Souls at Night” is fictional.
And James Michener’s Colorado
epic didn’t take place in the suburb
south of Denver. That “Centennial”
is fictional, too.
But the state is home to plenty of
real-life literary destinations worth a
stop on your next trip.
Woody Creek Tavern
Hunter S. Thompson’s widow an-
nounced plans a few years back to
open a private museum and writer’s
retreat at Owl Farm, the 42-acre
property outside Aspen that the gon-
zo journalist and author of “Fear and
Loathing in Las Vegas” called home
until his death in 2005. It hasn’t
opened yet, but you can belly up to
Thompson’s favorite bar just down
the road: Woody Creek Tavern. The
unassuming, cash-only spot has been
around since 1980 and is known for
its margaritas and its walls — the Shep Harris, the former owner of Woody Creek Tavern, in the bar in 2005. It was the favorite bar of “gonzo
former strong and the latter papered journalist” Hunter S. Thompson, who lived up the road. Hyoung Chang, Denver Post file
in photos and Thompson memora-
bilia, its most famous regular never
far from sight. The story goes, he Voisin C28 Ambassade that Dirk
once walked in and set off a smoke drove across the Sahara Desert in
bomb, emptying the place for hours. “Sahara,” and the 1953 Allard J2X
2858 Upper River Road, Woody that he raced in “Shock Wave.” 14959
Creek; 970-923-4585; woodycreek- W. 69th Ave., Arvada, 303-420-2795,
tavern.com cusslermuseum.com
Bookstore pit stop: Explore Book-
sellers, an Aspen institution since The Stanley Hotel
1975, was saved from closure in 2015 Horror fans know the story: Ste-
when it was purchased by a national phen King and his wife spent a night
network of nonprofit organizations. at The Stanley Hotel in Estes Park
21 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-925-5336, and the experience inspired his 1977
explorebooksellers.com book “The Shining.” Today, Room
217 is the historic hotel’s most re-
Cussler Museum quested room. Stay a night anywhere
Adventure writer Clive Cussler in the original 1909 building on a
has published close to 80 books, but blustery night, though, and even
it’s his equally impressive collection non-believers may begin to under-
of classic cars that’s celebrated at the stand why as they lie in bed listening
Cussler Museum in Arvada. Cussler to the creaking and whistling wind.
owns more than 100 automobiles, You can get a taste of the hotel’s
ranging in year from 1906 to 1965, spirited side without spending a
and 60-65 of them are on display night, too. Public tours are offered
every year from May 1 through Sept. daily and they’ve even added a hedge
30. Fans of his Dirk Pitt series will maze out front, in a nod to fans of
recognize some of the cars, too — the Stanley Kubrick film adaptation.
the fictional marine explorer hap- And if ghost stories aren’t your
pens to share the same soft spot for thing, you can always check out a Eileen Richardson and Stephen Shoup read books from the Rocky
classic cars and more than a dozen concert in the hotel’s new indoor/ Mountain Land Library after an event inside the old Puritan Maid Pie
vehicles from Cussler’s beautifully outdoor amphitheater. 333 Wonder- Factory Building on Champa Street, where the library hopes to have an
restored collection have appeared in view Ave., Estes Park, 970-577-4000, urban location to match its planned ranch in South Park. Helen H. Richardson,
the books, including the 1936 Avions stanleyhotel.com Denver Post file
34 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Crested Butte: Play hard


at the end of the road

By Rachel Walker Special to The Denver Post Lost Lake


campground near
Nestled in an iconic valley carved by the Slate River through the Elk Mountains, Crested Butte is a Crested Butte
provides
high alpine hamlet, elevation 8,850 feet, located at the end of Colorado 135. Here, time seems to stand breathtaking
charmingly still. The Victorian storefronts on Elk Avenue remain as bright and elaborate as they were views of the Ruby
Mountain Range.
when first constructed around the turn of the 19th century. Stop signs reign supreme (traffic lights are The wildflowers
for bigger, less mythical destinations). Miner’s “shacks” still make up the bulk of the town’s housing, in this region are
phenomenal
and the cruiser bikes and friendly dogs long associated with the Crested Butte vibe proliferate. If you
during mid July
haven’t yet seen it for yourself, it’s time. and early August.
Joshua Berman,

DAY 1 in time for fresh red chile tamales from


Teocalli Tamale (311 Elk Ave.; 970-349-2005).
Special to The Denver
Post
Food and shelter Then check into your lodging. Crested
Butte has options for every budget, all con-
After a roughly four-hour drive from the veniently located to town and the out-
Front Range (pro tip: take the route over doors. Choose from the Crested Butte Hostel
Cottonwood Pass to experience Colorado’s (bunk rooms start at $25; cbhostel.com);
full mountain grandeur), roll into town just the historic Elk Mountain Lodge (rates start
36 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

A mountain biker rounding Crested Butte, it might be tempt-


flies over the trail ing to skip the famous 401 Trail west of town
at Evolution Bike that starts at the top of Schofield Pass.
Park. Dave Don’t. Depending on where you start, the
Kozlowski, Provided
climb is relatively short (to make it longer,
by Crested Butte
ride from town), and the descent will trans-
Mountain Resort
port you — physically and metaphysically
— to another plane. Wildflowers that come
up to your seat are par for the course, and
the flow of the trail will make you fall in
love with mountain biking all over again.
And, if you don’t ride, it’s a great trail run.
Pick up local trail maps from the friendly
folks at Big Al’s Bicycle Heaven (207 Elk Ave.,
bigalsbicycleheaven.com) and learn more
about the area’s mountain biking at
Crested Butte Mountain Bike Association
(crestedbuttemountainbike.com).
Refuel
Grab lunch at The Divvy at the base of
Crested Butte Mountain Resort (thedivvy-
cb.com), which offers a range of healthful
salads, traditional comfort foods and
eclectic sandwiches.
Play harder
Test your downhill bike mettle at Evolu-
tion Bike Park (bike.skicb.com), lift-served
downhill mountain biking for every ability
level. Opening day this year is June 9, and
the bike shop on site rents downhill gear.
(Or, go back to the bakery for more of
their goods. No judgment!)
Colors of summer explode after heavy Crested Butte looms in the background
rain for several days near Crested Butte. at the Upper Loop trailhead.
Dinner
Andy Cross, Denver Post file Denver Post file No trip to Crested Butte is complete
without a slice of ‘za from the Secret Stash
Pizza (303 Elk Ave., secretstash.com). This
irreverent CB institution has pizza combos
you’ve never even thought of, along with
salads, a wide variety of sides, pasta and a
solid selection of adult beverages. Follow
up with a scoop (or three) from Third Bowl
Homemade Ice Cream (201 ½ Elk Ave., third-
bowl.com), which makes small-batch fro-
zen treats.

DAY 3
Coffee, again
Head to Camp 4 Coffee (402 ½ Elk Ave.,
camp4coffee.com) for premium roasted
brew and fresh-baked pastries. Don’t fret
about the line at the door — the baristas
inside this intimate shop move with expert
efficiency.
Get your feet wet
It’s not all adrenaline all the time in
Crested Butte. Some of the state’s best
trout fishing can be found in nearby water-
Temple Robertson of Crested Butte takes aim at a 3D target atop Crested Butte ways, drawing anglers from around the
Mountain Resort. Denver Post file world. Book a half or full-day guided tour
with Dragonfly Anglers (rates start at $295
Bakery (21 Elk Ave., theguildcafecb.com) is for a half day, dragonflyanglers.com) and
DAY 2 a must-visit. Need a heartier breakfast? get insider access and tips.
Choose from the wide selection of break-
Pour over and croissants fast burritos, egg sandwiches, quiche and Spice it up
Every good adventure should start with more. Round out your visit with dinner at the
craft coffee made with meticulously roast- Ginger Café (425 Elk Ave., thegingerca-
ed beans and a homemade almond crois- Play hard fe.com), where you’ll find Pan-Asian cui-
sant, which is why the Guild Cafe, home to With so many endorphin-pumping trails sine with a Colorado twist, like the Colora-
First Ascent Coffee and Mountain Oven Organic that climb amidst the myriad peaks sur- do lamb korma.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 37

Destinations named for


divine highs and devilish lows
By Brittany Anas
Special to The Denver Post

A telltale sign you’ve arrived in a


special place is when the name is
peppered with religious references.
Maybe it’s a geologic landform so
miraculous its name compares it to
the heavens. Or a trail so rugged and
recreationally indulgent it could be
the devil’s own handiwork.
Throughout Colorado, weekend
getaways are beckoning you to
choose your own destiny: Ascend to
the heavens or dance with the devil.
Either way, a good time is guaranteed.
Garden of the Gods
In 1859, when a poetic land survey-
or, Rufus Cable, came across the
dramatic, crimson rock formations
jutting 300 feet into the sky, he ex-
claimed: “Why it is a fit place for the
Gods to assemble. We will call it the
Garden of the Gods.” It stuck. To-
day, the park boasts 15 miles of trails,
free guided nature walks and spots
to rock climb.
At the park’s Geo-Trekker Theater,
visitors can learn about the dinosaurs The rustic but luxe Devil’s Thumb Ranch is a retreat packed with outdoor adventure, including ziplining. Provided
that once wandered the park and how by Devil's Thumb Ranch Resort & Spa
erosion and other geological forces,
over millions of years, converted
sand dunes into the now-iconic sand- The watering hole is formed by the
stone fins. (Sorry, but absent from Roaring Fork River, which pours
the story is any mention of Zeus or into the natural rock bowl. With 20-
Aphrodite.) For those fixated on the foot-high rock formations, it’s a pop-
beauty, book a stay at Garden of the ular spot for cliff diving — though be
Gods Collection, a resort nestled at forewarned, taking those plunges
the base of the park. The resort’s can be dangerous and the waters can
west-facing rooms show off the red be unpredictable. A safer way to
rocks, and a heated infinity pool is enjoy the area is by hiking one of the
the ideal spot to watch a sunset. nearby trails.
Garden of the Gods: 1805 N. 30th Together, North Apostle, Ice
St., Colorado Springs, 719-634-6666, Mountain and West Apostle make up
Gardenofthegods.com the Three Apostles in the Sawatch
Garden of the Gods Collection: Range. We’re mixing metaphors
3320 Mesa Road, Colorado Springs, here, but the Three Apostles is locat-
800-923-8838, Gardenofthegod- ed in Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, a
sclub.com nod to the Ivy League peaks also in
the area (such as mounts Harvard,
Devil’s Thumb Ranch Yale and Princeton). The apostles
Let Berthoud Pass lead you themselves are technical climbs. For
straight to temptation: Devil’s The Three Apostles, seen from Lake Ann Trail in the Sawatch Range are something more moderate, follow
Thumb Ranch, a hedonistic retreat technical climbs. Dean Krakel, Special to The Denver Post the Lake Ann Trail (6.6 miles round-
filled with outdoor adventure. Zi- trip) to the aquamarine lake sur-
plining, mountain biking, horseback rounded by the rugged peaks of the
riding and stand-up paddleboarding eral salts followed up by a full-body Devil’s Thumb Ranch: 3530 County Three Apostles.
are all activities bidding for atten- massage. We should clarify: Heck’s Road 83, Tabernash, 970-726-5632, Strap on your hiking boots and
tion at this rustic but luxe ranch Tavern on the property didn’t make devilsthumbranch.com experience the thrill of crossing Dev-
that’s just north of Winter Park. (The any deals with the devil. The tav- il’s Causeway, a narrow ridge that’s
Devil’s Thumb itself is a nub of rock ern’s name, rather, is a nod to geom- Other heavenly and hellish desti- near Yampa. Its scary stats: The
in the mountains east of the ranch.) etry: It’s housed in a hexagonal nations in Colorado: ridge is 11,800 feet high and just 4
After a day of adventure, repent room and is a replica of The Tim- When it’s hot as hell, cool off near feet wide in some places. Once you
at the spa with a Remedy Soak and berline Lodge, a national monument the Devil’s Punchbowl, which is south- make it to the other side, you’re
Massage that includes sinking into located at the base of Mount Hood east of Aspen in the White River spoiled with panoramic views of
an oversized copper tub with min- in Oregon. National Forest, off of Colorado 82. mesas and valleys.
38 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

A curious badger pops its head out of its hole on a ranch near Rifle.
Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file

A herd of young male Rocky Mountain Bighorn sheep hang out on a hillside in Basalt.
The sheep’s horns alone can weigh up to 30 pounds. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file

Avifauna is plentiful in the national wildlife refuges in the San Luis


Valley near Hopper. Joe Amon, Denver Post file

A marmot climbs a rock in a talus field near Capitol Lake, below Capitol Peak in the
Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
THE D E NVE R P O ST S UMME R G E TAWAYS 201 8 39

A wild horse grazes on land in the Bureau of Land Management’s Little Book Cliffs Wilderness Study Area
near Grand Junction. Gabriel Scarlett, Denver Post file

A coyote pup comes out of its den


on ranch land near Rifle.
Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file

Inhabiting
When warm weather arrives in Colorado, streams
burst as the snow melts, wildflowers erupt in mountain
meadows and animals hidden in the winter months
emerge in the sunshine. The annual spectacle delights
visitors of all kinds, from those motoring through Colo-

the wild
rado’s national parks to outdoors enthusiasts wander-
ing into river lands and remote, craggy spaces.
Some animals were there all along: The same gray jay
that wants to snatch the sandwich out of your hand on a
summer hike overwintered high in the forest, diving for

places
snowshoers’ snacks as well. Others, such as black bears,
were invisible through the snowy months.
A deer passes through the backcountry near From high plains to canyon country to the tundra
Medano Pass at Great Sand Dunes National above treeline, Colorado teems with life in the summer,
Park. Joe Amon, Denver Post file and each year, Denver Post photographers seek out
places to capture a moment in the life of our state’s wild
inhabitants. Here are a few images to inspire your own
breathless seconds trying to capture a photograph — at
a distance, please — of our state’s amazing animals.

— The Denver Post photo staff


40 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Hot springs, cool rivers and


great hikes in Pagosa Springs

By Jenn Fields The Denver Post Tami Schlienan of


Conifer and Lilla
Ahhh, Pagosa. Lazy days on the San Juan River, cool nights at the hot springs. A long weekend here Szoke chat in the
Aspen pool at The
can be a breath of fresh air, and you won’t even mind that it’s sulfur-tinged in some places around this Springs Resort &
mountain town. After all, that’s part of the appeal. Spa Pagosa
Springs. Joe Amon,
Denver Post file
Pagosa Springs is just far enough away Take a long weekend and soak it all up.
from the Front Range to weed out the big This is mountain relaxation at its most chill.
crowds of weekend visitors. The vacation-
ers are still around, and you might en- Stay (and soak)
counter a mini traffic jam right at the hot- The Springs Resort is right in the middle of
test spot in town, where a bend in the road the action. From here you can walk to
curves around Town Park, The Springs breakfast, lunch and dinner, and even hoof
Resort and a collection of shops and res- it to rent a tube to float on the San Juan. But
taurants that draw folks out of their tubes the real reason to stay at The Springs is the
on the river. But north of town, in the thermal pools themselves. The resort’s ter-
Weminuche Wilderness, it’s easy to get races of spring-fed pools cascade down to
away from civilization — fast. the river, making it convenient to hop into
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 41

the cold water to reset your thermostat. excuse to get out of the car and work those Jagged peaks in
Pools are marked by temperature; test them legs. Yes, you can see it from the parking the Weminuche
and find the perfect one for you. Being a lot, but you’ll want to take the short walk Wilderness create
hotel guest comes with perks, like 24-hour right up to the base of these 100-foot falls. a dramatic
access to the springs and a quieter, adults- In Pagosa, dirt roads around town fan out backdrop for the
only area. In the morning, you’re likely to into a wonderland of routes for mountain
hike to Fourmile
have a pool to yourself for a sunrise soak. biking or ATV runs. But for a spectacular
The resort has a range of rooms in three hike, head into the Weminuche Wilderness, Falls, outside of
lodge buildings (the newest has a bar), so which encompasses the dense forest and Pagosa Springs.
there’s something for everyone. rugged peaks looming north of Pagosa Jenn Fields, The
pagosahotsprings.com, 165 Hot Springs Springs. A suggested hike: From the Fourmile Denver Post
Blvd., 970-264-4168 Trailhead (up Fourmile Road), take the 3.5-
mile (one-way) hike to a towering waterfall
Hike careening down a precipitous cliff. Get close
For those making the trek in to Pagosa enough to feel the spray, then watch for
Springs from the east, the short hike to summer birds, such as Western Tanagers,
Treasure Falls, on the west side of Wolf on the return hike.
The short hike to Treasure Falls, just off Creek Pass along U.S. 160, is a welcome Congrats, you’ve earned that nighttime
Wolf Creek Pass, is a good place to get soak in the hot springs.
out of the car and walk during a road
trip. Jenn Fields, The Denver Post
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 43

Visitors line up at Kip’s Grill and Cantina, an area favorite in Pagosa Springs. Joe Amon, Denver Post file

Kip’s Grill (121 E. Pagosa St., 970-264-3663,


kipsgrill.com) has long been an apres-ski
favorite for skiers and snowboarders mak-
ing the trek back from Wolf Creek. But
summertime calls for fish tacos and moz-
zarella-stuffed Hatch green chiles, too.
(Proximity to the New Mexico border has
a distinct influence on what you’ll eat in
Pagosa.) Whatever you order, you’ll want
to wash it down with a house margarita.
Riff Raff Brewing (274 Pagosa St., 970-264-
4677, riffraffbrewing.com) is quite literally
tapped into the town’s hot spring. Geo-
thermal water heats the building, includ-
ing the kitchen and brewhouse, and the
hot water they use to make their ales. Grab
a table out front, order some excellent pub
grub and an El Duende green chile ale —
like everything else in Pagosa Springs,
there’s just the right amount of heat there
to enhance your feelings of total chill.

Riff Raff Brewing Company bartender and server Sydney Aragon pours pints of the pub’s “Earth Powered
Beer.” Joe Amon, Denver Post file
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 45

Rentals to write home about:


Try out a tiny home or stay on 50 acres
By Dylan Owens
The Denver Post

Even if you’ve lived in the state


your whole life, odds are you haven’t
truly experienced what it’s like to live
in all of Colorado’s wonderfully var-
ied environs. While you’re probably
grateful that you haven’t spent a
month living in the Englewood Chuck
E. Cheese, there are oodles of week-
end destinations that could enrich
your perspective on living here.
What’s it like to wake up in a 19th
century mining cabin next to a pri-
vate hot spring, for example? Or in a
tiny home fashioned after the Hobbit
houses in “The Lord of the Rings”?
These are important questions, and
we found some answers.
Below are five prime Colorado
staycation rental locations. Try
them out for a weekend (if you can
get a booking) and you might just
see our state in a new light.
Wee Casa
If you’ve held a soft spot for those
cozy Hobbit neighborhoods in “The
Lord of the Rings,” consider packing
a bindle and hiking up to Lyons this
summer. The homes in the Wee Casa
community are humble — they range Some of the small house “cabins,” including a round-door hobbit hut, at Wee Casa in Lyons. Provided by Wee Casa
from 135-365 square feet — but like
the folks of the Shire, they’re big on
personality. If you think we’re play- stay inside, right? This cabin does gathered from the property for a
ing this Frodo stuff up too much, one have a roof on it if that’s your bag — rustic feel, and outfitted with Blue-
of the property’s homes is literally and a study with wifi, if duty calls — tooth speakers that are perfect for
called the Hobbit Home. It’s outfitted but its enveloping sprawl over 50 bumping TLC’s “Waterfalls” while
with a circular door and a knotty, acres has more amenities outdoors watching the spring trickle off its
wooden interior. If Hobbits don’t do than in. Lay out on the spacious edge. In the lounging community,
it for you, check out one of the other deck, powwow in the gazebo, curl up we call that the best of both worlds.
22 uniquely-designed homes in the around the fireplace, take a dip in In Buena Vista, airbnb.com
village, just a stroll away from just the pool or sweat out in the sauna. (search: “Holloway Cabin on Creek
about everything in Lyons. Whether you do all that before or & Private Hot-Springs”); up to six
501 W. Main St., Lyons, 720-460- after you explore the property is up guests, $350 per night
0239 or weecasa.com; up to four to you.
guests In San Luis, glampinghub.com Camp getaway
(search: “Tranquil Cabin Rental on Sometimes, you have to get lost so
More than a cozy cabin 50 Acres of Pristine Land in San you don’t lose yourself. Enter this
If you’re looking for a ritzy spot to Everything you need for a cabin Luis”); up to four guests, $133.75 per two-person get-away in Livermore.
crash during one of the Telluride vacation is packed into a small night Tucked away in 16,000 acres of
music festivals — or spare no ex- space at Wee Casa in Lyons. Provided property, it’s an ideal spot to hunker
pense while you get away from it all by Wee Casa
A hot springs to yourself down and read for the weekend,
— check out this 12-guest “cabin” in They say that happiness unshared explore the area via mountain bike
the mountains near Ophir. Set below ine a tiny “Game of Thrones” inn, can’t truly be called happiness. But a or cast a line (a tributary of the Pou-
the Palmyra and Silver Peak moun- and you’ll have a good idea of what hot spring unshared? That’s a differ- dre River runs through the land). It’s
tains, this home cuts a stunning fig- to expect. ent story. In Buena Vista, there’s a just big enough for two, so bring
ure in the wilderness, and is one of In Ophir, glampinghub.com (search restored 1800s log cabin that agrees. along the beau if he or she fancies a
the few in the U.S. that’s perched “Stunning Colorado Cabin Rental An updated wooden bridge takes star-gazing retreat. Another bonus:
11,000 feet above sea level. It’s also near Telluride”); up to 12 guests, $963 you across Cottonwood Creek, It’s just 15 miles from Fort Collins, so
probably one of the prettiest, boast- per night, minimum two night stay which is feet away from the colorful, if you two get in a fight, the bus sta-
ing stain glass windows, gorgeous semi-modern homestead. But its tion isn’t light years away.
wooden construction and the kind of You need some space other water feature is the real kicker: In Livermore, airbnb.com (search:
stone work that’d make the manliest You didn’t book a weekend rental an odorless, infinity-pool-style hot “Mountain Log Cabin-sauna, hot
of men weep with admiration. Imag- in the mountains of Colorado just to spring nook. It’s inset with rocks tub”); up to two people, $215 per night
46 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Nine lakeside retreats

By Joshua Berman Special to The Denver Post The author’s


daughters go
You wake up early, crawl out of your tent, and behold the layer of thick, white mist covering the wa- exploring around
Bear Lake
ter’s surface. The rising sun makes the moisture glow, and it’s already beginning to evaporate as you Campground,
push off your canoe and float, weightless, over the unbroken surface of the water. south of Yampa.
The campground
Such is the magic of lakeside camp- Byway, you can drive up to Lost Lake from is between the
grounds. At their best, they are isolated, either Paonia or Crested Butte. Both ways Upper Stillwater
quiet escapes, with trails around their cir- take you through some of the most mas- and Yamacolo
cumference, and nobody but a few anglers sive, stunning aspen groves in the world. Reservoirs,
and moose along their shores. At their Lost Lake itself sits in a cirque at the base delivering double
worst, they are crowded, speedboat- of East Beckwith Mountain, between the the lakeside love
choked playgrounds. Following are some Raggeds and West Elk wilderness areas. for your money.
of favorite, most remote campgrounds. The campground is in a healthy forest of Joshua Berman,
Most of them only allow wakeless boats aspen, spruce and fir on the north shore of Special to
and feature immediate access to nearby the lake, and many of the sites have views The Denver Post
wilderness areas and national forests. of the Beckwith Mountains. Campers fish
Tie on that canoe, and happy camping. and boat on the lake, and also hike and
bike the Three Lakes Trail, a 2.1-mile loop
Lost Lake around Lost Lake with views of the Ruby
West of Crested Butte Range. There is an adjacent cluster of
Located on the West Elk Loop Scenic equestrian sites for horse owners.
48 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Teal
Campground
sites have
gorgeous views
of Williams
Creek Reservoir
and the San Juan
mountains
beyond. Joshua
Berman, Special to
The Denver Post

Pearl Lake State Park


North of Steamboat Springs
Tucked into a narrow north-south valley
at the base of Farwell Mountain, this camp-
ground offers scenery and first-rate fishing.
On an early summer morning, you might
wake up to tendrils of mist curling over the
lake, a dusting of snow on the ridgelines,
and the sounds of 18-inch trout leaping out
of the water. Pearl Lake is managed in con-
junction with Steamboat Lake to the north,
but it is much smaller and attracts a quieter
family crowd. The lower loop (sites 24-38)
is lakeside, so these sites are most popular,
but there is not a bad site in the park. The
upper loop (sites 1-23) is located on a gentle
hill that is just 200 yards from the lake.
There is a short trail to the dam, which con-
nects with the 6-mile Coulton Creek Forest
Service trail, as well as a boat ramp at the
south end of the lake.
If you go: 36 sites for tents and RVs up
to 55 feet, two yurts available by reserva-
tion only. Many sites are pull-through, but
there are no hookups. Site 35 and Yurt 6
are wheelchair accessible. Reservations
accepted at 800-678-2267 and colora-
dostateparks.reserveamerica.com. $18 per
night. The yurts sleep six and cost $70 per
night. Campers must also purchase a vehi-
cle pass ($7) or an Annual Parks Pass
($70). 970-879-3922, cpw.state.co.us
Below, a family enjoys one of the lower-loop sites at Pearl Lake State Park, north of Steamboat. Joshua Berman,
Special to The Denver Post
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 49

Haviland Lake
North of Durango
Haviland Lake is an attractive destina-
tion, and it’s a short drive from Durango,
so it’s a convenient stopover on the famed
Million Dollar Highway. The lake is
stocked and practically lined with kids
fishing with powerbait and hauling out
trout. It’s a good lake for fly-fishing and a
beautiful place to paddle a canoe. There’s
a short interpretive trail for hikers. This is
a modern, well-designed facility. There
are four interlaced gravel loops on a hill-
side overlooking the lake. The sites are
terraced and have large pull-ins, so they
work well for tent camping and RVs. Most
of them are screened by aspen, so even
when the campground is full, it’s easy to
find privacy.
If you go: 43 sites for tents and RVs up
to 45 feet. Some sites and all facilities are
wheelchair accessible. Reservations ac-
cepted at 26 of the sites, at 877-444-6777
and recreation.gov. $20 per night, plus an
additional $16 for electricity and premium
lakeside sites. San Juan National Forest,
Columbine District, 970-884-2512,
The author’s daughter admires the view of East Beckwith Mountain from Lost Lake www.fs.usda.gov/sanjuan
Campground. Joshua Berman, Special to The Denver Post
Arapaho Bay
On Lake Granby
Bear Lake If you go: 15 boat-in sites for tent camp- Arapaho Bay is the most remote and
West of Yampa ing. No hookups. Fire rings provided. Vault attractive of the four campgrounds on
Up the Bear River valley, not far from toilets available at sites 1, 2 and 5-10. Trash Lake Granby. It is located on the eastern
the Flat Tops Wilderness area, the second- must be packed out. Reservations are rec- tip of the long arm of the lake, beneath the
largest wilderness in the state, this lake is ommended at www.larimercamping.com magnificent Indian Peaks Wilderness. The
enclosed by the volcanic cliffs of the Flat and 800-397-7795. $20 per night. Campers Roaring Fork, Monarch Lake and Straw-
Tops, and the valley is lush with aspen, must also purchase a daily Larimer County berry Lake Trails begin near the camp-
spruce and fir. The area is managed jointly pass ($7) or an annual pass. Larimer Coun- ground and connect with the Buchanan
by Medicine Bow-Routt National Forests ty Department of Natural Resources, Pass, Cascade Creek and Continental Di-
and the Division of Wildlife, so the trout 970-679-4570, www.larimer.org/ vide trails. Anglers can fish for mackinaw
fishery has an excellent reputation. Bear naturalresources or kokanee salmon from the shore or by
Lake is open to electric and hand-powered boat.
boats, and there is a boat ramp on Yamco- Teal If you go: 84 sites for tents and RVs up
lo Reservoir for larger boats. The Mandall North of Pagosa Springs to 40 feet, on three loops. No hookups.
Lakes Trail begins opposite the camp- Teal campground is on the western Reservations accepted at 877-444-6777
ground and climbs onto the Flat Tops Pla- shore of Williams Creek Reservoir and and www.recreation.gov. A single site
teau. Several more trails begin at Stillwater features dramatic views of the San Juans costs $19 per night, and a double site costs
Reservoir. This is the best campground in towering above the lake. Cimarrona Peak $38 per night. Vehicles must also have a
the valley for families and RVs. It’s divided and Chief and Toner mountains dominate daily pass ($5) for the Arapaho National
into two wooded loops. the horizon to the north. To the east, Rock Recreation Area. Arapaho National For-
If you go: 43 sites for tents and RVs up to Mountain juts out of the surrounding est, Sulphur District, 970-887-4100,
30 feet, including four double sites, one slopes. Behind the campground, the slopes www.fs.usda.gov/arp
triple site and two walk-in tent sites. No are covered in aspen groves. The 343-acre
hookups. Reservations not accepted. $10 reservoir has good trout and kokanee May Queen
per night for a single site, $20 per night for a salmon fishing in early summer. Small Turquoise Lake
double, $30 per night for a triple. Medicine sailboats, canoes and kayaks are frequent- May Queen is the only campground at
Bow-Routt National Forests, Yampa Dis- ly on the lake. Hikers can drive to the near- the west end of Turquoise Lake, at about
trict, 970-638-4516, www.fs.usda.gov/mbr by Williams Creek and Cimarrona trail- 10,000 feet. Hike into the Holy Cross and
heads. The campground has two loops. Mount Massive wilderness areas, or on the
Horsetooth Reservoir Boat-in The right loop has just five sites, all with Colorado Trail, which passes by the camp-
West of Fort Collins excellent views and lots of shade. The left ground entrance. Many people bring ca-
There are 15 boat-in only sites tucked loop has 11 sites close to the lake. Sites 6-12 noes or kayaks, which they carry down to
into the coves on the lake’s western shore. overlook the water. These sites are closer the lake (the nearest boat ramp is 6 miles
Horsetooth is also a popular fishing desti- together and have less shade, but you are away, though). Most of the sites are widely
nation for white bass and walleye (but also allowed to walk your tent down and distributed away from the road in a conif-
check with Colorado Parks and Wildlife pitch it in small clusters of pines. erous forest; you’ll find the most privacy at
about mercury levels before consuming If you go: 16 sites for tents and RVs up to the walk-in sites.
any fish). Dixon Cove, Quarry Cove and 35 feet. No hookups. San Juan National If you go: 17 sites for tents and RVs up to
the main shore (sites 1-8) are most popular Forest, Pagosa District, 970-264-2268, 32 feet and 12 walk-in tent sites. No hook-
with families. South and North Eltuck www.fs.usda.gov/sanjuan ups. Reservations accepted at 877-444-
Coves (sites 11-14) have a reputation for 6777 and www.recreation.gov. $20 per
being the party coves. The northern camp- night. Pike and San Isabel National For-
sites (9-15) offer access to hiking and bik- ests, Leadville District, 719-486-0749,
ing trails in Lory State Park. www.fs.usda.gov/psicc
50 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

“Creative Corridor” brings


artists into the foreground

By Brittany Anas Special to The Denver Post Eli Pettet looks at


the Powers Art
Mountain towns excel at being eclectic delights, and recognizing and embracing that, five Center’s water
display, which
Colorado destinations have come together to form a “Creative Corridor” to showcase their greets patrons as
wide-ranging arts and cultural offerings. they enter. AAron
Ontiveroz, Denver
Post file
Of course, in true Colorado fashion, the was developed a couple of years ago to
circuit also shines the spotlight on outdoor draw visitors to Colorado’s bubbling, au
adventure — a nod to Mother Nature, the naturel hot tubs. All of the destinations in
skilled artist responsible for painting the Creative Corridor are Colorado Cre-
Crested Butte with vibrant wildflowers in ative Districts, a designation for the state’s
the summer and gifting Carbondale with most art-focused communities, which are
its the mighty monolith, Mount Sopris. brimming with galleries, artists in resi-
The Creative Corridor spans 331 miles, dence and special arts events.
and organizers hope it will help curate Here are the stars of the new Creative
itineraries for visitors this summer. It’s Corridor, as well as some ideas for what to
akin to the Historic Hot Springs Loop that see, do and eat when visiting.
52 T HE D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Paddlers navigate
the Arkansas
River above
Salida. Lou Visual,
Provided by Badfish

Vintage furniture
and bold floral
wallpaper earn
The Biker & The
Baker points for
ambiance. Jenny
Folman, Provided by
The Biker & The Baker

Salida’s downtown is lined with studios, galleries and locally owned eateries, many in The Biker & The Baker has an ever-changing dessert menu.
charming Victorian-era buildings. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file Jenny Folman, Provided by The Biker & The Baker

Salida Walk (June 21-24) will include local art- Where to eat: Satiate your sweet tooth
The Arkansas River cuts through Salida’s ists, musicians, street performers and at The Biker and The Baker (123 W. First St.,
downtown, drawing rafters and kayakers, artist demos, plus an event dedicated to 719-207-4001, thebikerandthebaker.com)
and the nearby Collegiate Peaks are a draw the culinary arts. For a unique stay, the which has an inventive and ever-changing
for those looking to upward to the nearby Mountain Goat Lodge (9582 U.S. 285, 719- dessert menu. (Think: Peanut butter and
fourteeners. But Salida is much more than 539-7173, mountaingoatlodge.com) is a bacon chocolate cake or blueberry poppy-
an outdoor-lover’s paradise. Its down- bed and breakfast just outside of town seed creme brûlée). The dessert shop also
town is lined with studios, galleries and with friendly resident goats that provide sells wine, beer, cheese and charcuterie.
locally owned eateries, many in charming the milk for the lodge’s breakfasts and Vintage furniture and bold floral wallpa-
Victorian-era buildings. This year’s Art cheese-making classes. per earn it an “A” in ambiance.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 53

Jim and
Elaine Brett
of Bowie
enjoy an
evening glass
of wine on
the porch
that
overlooks the
vineyards at
Leroux Creek
Inn and
Vineyards.
Denver Post file

The Ridgway Reservoir is a great place to camp, swim, paddleboard and sail. Dan
Wyner, Provided by Colorado Parks and Wildlife

Live music during the day is a huge draw


to Paonia’s Mountain Harvest Festival.
Courtesy of Ben Lehman

Paonia
Paonia has a large share of organic farms,
orchards and vineyards, making it the con-
summate host for farm-to-table meals and
winemaker dinners. For a sample, pick fruit
and do a hard cider tasting at Delicious Or-
chards (39126 Colorado 133, Hotchkiss, 970-
527-1110, bigbs.com). In town, Grand Ave-
nue is idyllic, with turn-of-the-century
buildings housing local shops and restau-
rants, art galleries, a movie theater and a
radio station.
Where to eat: Try a five-course wine-
maker dinner at Leroux Creek Inn and Vine-
yards (12388 3100 Road, Hotchkiss, 970-872-
4746, lerouxcreekvineyards.com). The din-
ners are classic French cuisine and use
local produce, meat or fish from the organ-
ic farms and ranches in Delta County.
Ridgway
Artist Russ Chapman plays Paonia Town Park. Courtesy of JT Thomas More than 10 percent of the 900 residents
of Ridgway call themselves artists. Here’s a
snapshot: Billings Artworks makes Grammy
Crested Butte Purple Mountain (714 Gothic Ave., 970- Awards, and Panji Bags makes eco-friendly,
Crested Butte’s artistic credentials in- 349-5888, purplemountainlodge.com) is a hardcover cases for instruments. The re-
clude more than 70 creatives in town, bed and breakfast (plus beer!) that serves stored historic Sherbino Theater (604 Clin-
including metal workers, photographers, a select Colorado craft beer complimen- ton St., 970-318-0892, sherbino.org) offers
plein-air painters and ski manufacturers. tary to guests. live music, poetry readings and lectures
Take a self-guided tour of the galleries in Where to eat: The Secret Stash (303 Elk and the town does full-moon artist studio
the Elk Avenue historic district. Or, come Ave., 970-349-6245, secretstash.com) tours, setting its art walks apart.
for one of Crested Butte’s many festivals, serves wildly creative pizzas, including Where to eat: Provisions (616 Clinton St.,
including the Crested Butte Music Festival, one with a Thai peanut and coconut-curry 970-626-9861, provisionschef.com) is a Eu-
which runs in July and August or the Film base that’s finished with a sweet Thai chili ropean-style cafe with community-style
Festival that plays out Sept. 27-30. The sauce and chopped peanuts. tables inside an old barber shop.
54 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Win the lottery? These are the six


Colorado vacations you’ll want to take
By Katie Shapiro
Special to The Denver Post

While Colorado has endless free


options for getaways in the great
outdoors, our state also is teeming
with over-the-top, extravagant es-
capes. From a downtown Denver
presidential suite to a private heli-
copter tour to a remote fishing
lodge, here’s where to go if you sud-
denly find yourself with a travel bud-
get where the sky’s the limit.
Taylor River Lodge
Almont
Now with seven remote locations
around the world (an eighth is
scheduled to open in Chile later this
year), Crested Butte-based Eleven
Experience is leading the charge in
luxury experiential travel. Tucked
away in the woods in nearby Al-
mont, Taylor River Lodge is a fly
fisherman’s dream, where six rus-
tic-yet-chic cabins lie steps away
from a stocked trout pond. Guests
are armed with personal guides for
bespoke float and wading trips on
the Taylor River and up through the
“Gunni.” Off the water, it’s a sum-
mer-camp-style utopia of hiking,
biking, kayaking, horseback riding, Tucked away in the woods in Almont, Taylor River Lodge is a fly-fisher’s dream. Provided by Taylor River Lodge
archery and more — with gourmet
meals and an impressive wine and
cocktail program. For the most epic
vacation of all time, round up a full
entourage of friends and family for
a full buyout of the property
($22,040/night based on 24 guests).
All inclusive, from $1,950/night,
elevenexperience.com
The Little Nell
and Sentient Jet
Aspen
No jet card, no problem when
you’re a guest at Colorado’s crown
jewel of five-star hotels. Of course
Aspen Snowmass has an official pri-
vate-aviation partner, and as a Ski-
Co-owned property, The Little Nell
is exclusively able to offer guests
Sentient Jet’s standard rates without
a year-round commitment. Starting The Taylor River Lodge features an Just four miles downriver from its sister property, Dunton Hot Springs,
at $5,272 per hour, the perks include indoor pool. Provided by Taylor River Dunton River Camp is an off-grid getaway that takes glamping to the next
guaranteed availability, access to a Lodge level. Provided by Dunton River Camp
premier network of aircraft and a
dedicated on-demand client-man-
agement team to make any wish maker is taking your average distill- of how grains are grown, harvested birds-eye-view of the Marble Quarry
their command. From $497/night, ery tour to new heights with a private and eventually returned as livestock and historic Crystal Mill. The experi-
thelittlenell.com chopper ride in partnership with As- feed. Following a overview of Marble ence culminates with a tour, tasting
pen Heli Charter. Winding along the Distilling Co.’s whiskey-aging pro- and lunch at Marble Distilling Co.
Marble Distilling Co.’s Crystal River Valley and surrounding gram and philosophy — tasting Main Street, with an overnight stay at
“Distilled Flight” areas, the day-long program starts straight out of the barrel is includ- the Distillery Inn upstairs. Price
Carbondale with a visit to Nieslanik Beef’s farm ed— guests take flight over majestic available upon request, marbledis-
Carbondale’s sustainable spirits and Flying Dog Ranch to see the cycle high-mountain valleys to Marble for a tilling.com.
56 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

Nine places to celebrate


the arts in Colorado

By Ray Mark Rinaldi Special to The Denver Post new brand makes it easier to locate the The New York
operation, and the change has served to Philharmonic
High culture booms in Colorado’s high-altitude towns dur- energize the programming, now under the performs at
artistic direction of former Opera Colora- Bravo! Vail. The
ing the summer as museums, dance troupes, opera compa- do associate conductor Andres Cladera. orchestra joins
The official season is conveniently com-
nies and art festivals of every kind take advantage of a sur- pact, Aug. 9-11, but includes an impressive
The Philadelphia
Orchestra and the
plus of tourists and put on their best shows. variety of operatic styles, ranging from
Dallas Symphony
Mozart’s ancient “Don Giovanni” to Mil-
There are some constants in those hills, ton Granger’s newish “The Proposal.” Orchestra with
stalwarts like the Aspen Music Festival Insider tip: If you are looking for more mini-residencies
and Central City Opera, but each season culture in Steamboat during August, see this year.
unexpected options emerge and familiar what’s on stage at the nearby Strings in the Denver Post file
ones find a way to renew themselves. Mountains.
Here are some promising stops for 2018. Location: To be announced. Info: oper-
asteamboat.org
In Steamboat Springs,
opera reawakens In Breckenridge,
Opera Steamboat is the latest reincarna- a music fest with history
tion of the company that started out in The Breckenridge Music Festival traces
2002 as Emerald City Opera and never its playing back to 1980 and its annual clas-
quite found the audience it deserves. The sical concerts are one reason Breck has
58 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

chamber ensemble and a series of well-


planned, smaller concerts in homes, natu-
ral settings and community stages
throughout Vail.
Insider tip: Vail is such an adult affair,
but families should consider some of the
free fare offered around town, like the kids
concert and “instrument petting zoo,” set
for July 12.
Location: Most concerts take place in
the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater. Info at
bravovail.org.
In Carbondale, a Jasper Johns
surprise
The Powers Art Center was established
in 2014 as a place to house art collected by
the late, and wildly successful, business-
man John G. Powers, who died in 1999.
Powers was a big fan of 20th century great
Jasper Johns and spent considerable time
and money assembling complete sets of
his prints. Few museums specialize so pre-
cisely in a single artist, and even fewer are
dedicated to works on paper. It’s a rare
establishment.
Insider tip: The hours are limited to 10
a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Thursday.
Plan your mountain journey so you pass
through Carbondale during that time.
Aspen Santa Fe Location: 13110 Colorado 82, Carbon-
Ballet dancer In Colorado Springs, a major ad- dale. Info: powersartcenter.org.
Katherine
dition to the state’s cultural land-
scape In Ignacio, native art and arti-
Bolanos. The facts
company’s The new Ent Center for the Arts opened
just this January on the campus of the Uni- The Southern Ute Museum welcomes
summer
versity of Colorado in Colorado Springs. It everyone to the reservation, located about
performances (on promises to shake up the status quo in a 30 minutes from Durango, to learn about
July 7 and Aug. 10- part of the state not known for the fine the tribe’s culture. The in-house collection
11) will bring arts. The place has four theaters and a siz- is heavy with relics from more than 1,000
ultra- able art gallery, and the programming is years of Colorado-area history and empha-
contemporary top-notch. The venue will serve as the new sizes artful objects, like musical instru-
ballet to home of the stage company Theatreworks. ments, ceremonial costumes and tradition-
Colorado. Rosalie Insider tip: Get to the Ent Center before al baskets and pottery. The building itself,
O’Connor, Provided July 21 and see the Gallery of Contempo- sleek and modern, is worth a look on its
by Aspen Santa Fe rary Art’s “Lazy Stitch” exhibit curated by own.
Ballet of-the-moment Santa Fe artist Cannupa Insider tip: Check the schedule online.
Hanska Luger. The special events, animating long-held
Location: 1420 Austin Bluffs Parkway, customs, make the place lively.
Colorado Springs. Info: uccs.edu/vapa. Location: 503 Ouray Drive, Ignacio.
Info: southernute-nsn.gov.
In Estes Park, subtle sounds at
Rocky Ridge Music Center In Aspen, a ballet company re-
After serving for 75 years as a successful makes itself
music camp for students near and far, Aspen Santa Fe Ballet has gone through
Rocky Ridge Music Center is a national The Vail Dance Festival blends multiple a transition in the past few years as veter-
institution in the education field. As a local dance genres into variety shows of an dancers, collected over the two decades
presenter, it remains a bit of a secret. But movement. Erin Baiano, Provided by Vail it has been in business, have aged off of the
the center’s annual season of afternoon Dance Festival stage. That means the company’s summer
faculty concerts are a rare treat: classical performances (on July 7 and Aug. 10-11)
music, reasonably-priced, in a super casual will be full of fresh faces who bring their
venue, surrounded by amazing views of In Vail, the kings of classical unique talents and renew the company’s
the mountains. The place is a little remote It’s hard to find any other place — in the mission of bringing ultra-contemporary
— but that’s part of the magic. entire country, really — that offers the ballet to the Colorado and New Mexico.
Insider tip: Plan to hang out a while powerhouse classical lineup of the Bravo! Insider tip: Aspen Santa Fe Ballet has
after the concerts, where patrons are often Vail music fest. Three of the world’s best also emerged as an important presenter,
invited to mingle with the musicians. The orchestras — the New York Philharmonic, bringing top companies to the region, like
season runs June 3 to Sept. 2. The Philadelphia Orchestra and the Dallas this year’s performances by Hubbard
Location: 465 Longs Peak Road, Estes Symphony Orchestra — all take up mini- Street Dance Chicago on July 21 and Pi-
Park. Info: rockyridge.org. residencies. Their big-stage performances lobolus on July 28.
are rounded out by appearances by Lon- Location: Aspen District Theater. Info:
don’s Academy of St Martin in the Fields aspensantafeballet.com.
60 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

2018 Summer Bucket List

By The Know Staff OUTDOORS BUCKET


LIST: Stand up on a
Come for the winters; stay for the summers. If you’re a Colorado transplant, you may have heard paddleboard.
Dozens of people
that a time or two. If you’re a native, there’s a pretty good chance you’ve said it. Whether cele- enjoy learning
brating at the top of a fourteener or sitting on a sun-soaked brewery patio with friends, it is unde- how to use a
stand-up
niable that summers in Colorado are unlike any other. But they can also be overwhelming. We’re paddleboard
talking serious FOMO (fear of missing out) here. during the South
Platte RiverFest at
That’s where we come in. We have put achieve bucket-list glory. Confluence Park.
together a list of 99 of the coolest ways to What’s more, we want to actually see Helen H. Richardson,
celebrate the warmest season of the year you achieving peak summer. Swinging Denver Post file
in Colorful Colorado. You don’t like to through on a vacation? Snap that perfect
hike? That’s OK; there are other things to Insta and boom! Bucket list check.
do. You like weird, outside-the-box stuff? Lived here your whole life? Maybe you
Hey, we’ve got you covered, too! just tried something new. Pics or it didn’t
So, how well do you actually #knowCO- happen.
summer? We have set up our bucket list as Here’s how it works:
a quiz. As you achieve more items, swing Snap a sweet Instagram of you achieving
back through, check them off and see if one of the bucket list items.
your score changes. Post it, tag @thknwco and add #Know-
You can also print the list off here to COsummer and the category for which
keep it handy on all your road trips, adven- you’re submitting: #arts, #outdoors,
tures and even visits to the farmers mar- #roadtrip, #animals, #foodanddrink,
ket. You never know when you can #sports, #music, #extremeCO, #onlyinCO,
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 61

FOOD AND DRINK


BUCKET LIST: Shop
at a farmers
market. Christian
Toohey greats a
new customer at
the Toohey & Sons
Organic tent at the
Union Station
Farmers Market at
Union Station.
Denver Post file

• LOL at a comedy show


• Find your favorite mural in the city
• Pose with something architecturally in-
teresting
• Buy a book from a local bookstore and
read it somewhere outdoors
Outdoors
• Explore a national park
• Climb, drive or ride up a fourteener
• Walk at least a step of the nearly 500-
mile-long Colorado Trail
• Bust a yoga move somewhere crazy
• Stand up on a paddle board
• Soak away all your cares in a natural hot
spring
• Strike a pose in front of a waterfall
• Watch the sunset with a mountain back-
drop or lie under a beautiful starry sky
• Fly high in a gondola
• Cruise downhill on something unusual
ANIMALS BUCKET LIST: Feed an animal at the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. Ty Liverman (no cars, no feet)
feeds a giraffe at the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo during a field trip.
Denver Post file
Quality car time
• Stand in four places at once at the Four
Corners
#weirdCO. • Stand on both sides of the Continental
We will be collecting and posting your Art Divide
amazing photos through the summer, all • Walk through a First Friday event in an • Gawk at the scenery along the San Juan
the way through Labor Day. art district or museum Skyway
The Denver Post photo team will select • Learn about a new culture at a museum, • Kick it into four-wheel drive traveling
100 of their favorite photos. Then it’s up to gallery, art show or festival along the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway
you and your friends to vote on the best • Stop and smell the roses at Botanic Gar- • Escape into the trees of the Grand Mesa
one to be crowned “The Best Colorado dens Historic Byway
Summer Instagram of 2018.” • Buy local at an artisan market • Relive the adventure of heritage travelers
The winning Instagram is also eligible • Stare up at a marquee public art sculp- along the Santa Fe Trail Scenic Byway
for a number of gifts from our sponsors. ture. (For example: Big Blue Bear, Sculp- • Watch for flora and fauna along the
Now it’s time to get out there and get ture Park, etc.) Guanella Pass Scenic Byway
snapping — those photos won’t take them- • Give a standing ovation after a stage per- • Twist and turn up Phantom Canyon
selves! formance Road
62 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

EXTREME BUCKET
LIST: Fly down a
zipline. Keith
Kirchner enjoys
the ride on one of
the ziplines on the
course at Royal
Gorge Zip Line
tours. Helen H.
Richardson, Denver
Post file

ART BUCKET LIST: Find your favorite mural in the city. Denver artist Hollislana paints
“Experience” at Denver’s River North Art District. Hyoung Chang, Denver Post file

• Take the road to the sky, Mount Evans Street in Boulder or in Old Town Fort
Scenic Byway, the highest paved road in Collins Sports
North America • Visit a local dispensary • Cheer on the Rockies at Coors Field
• Traverse Rocky Mountain National Park • Dream of getting out of town at Denver’s • Kick it at a Rapids game or U.S. Soccer
via Trail Ridge Road Union Station match
• All aboard a historic railroad • Get up close and personal with your favor-
Food and drink • Go back in time at the Molly Brown ite Bronco at training camp
• Indulge in different cuisines at a food House • Discover the wildest part of your Western
hall • Be exactly a mile high on the steps of the side at a rodeo
• Raise a drink on a patio state Capitol or in Coors Field • Perfect that golf swing with a gorgeous
• Appreciate a craft beverage at a brewery • Dress the part with Rockmount Ranch view
or a taproom Wear or another local shop • Compete in a road race, or cheer others on
• Take a stance in the Colorado vs. New • Take a risk at Black Hawk, Central City • Ride in a bike race, or just watch
Mexico green chile rivalry or Cripple Creek • Play in a recreational sports league or
• Learn why Colorado has more than beer: compete with friends in a park
Tour a winery or distillery Animals • Root for one of Colorado’s minor league
• Eat Rocky Mountain Oysters (extra • Take a horseback ride teams
points for video) • Feed an animal at the Cheyenne Moun- • Speed things up by checking out a local
• Savor a classic Colorado summer treat tain Zoo race track
(for example: Palisade peaches, Rocky • Find an animal from a different continent
Ford cantaloupe or Olathe sweet corn) at the Wild Animal Sanctuary Extreme
• Shop at a farmers market • Choose a butterfly in your favorite color • Fly down a zipline
• Eat from a food truck at the Butterfly Pavilion • Make all your friends jealous by skydiv-
• Catch your own dinner • Reenact the same pose as an animal at ing
the Denver Zoo • Look down on Colorado from a hot air
Colorado only • Let your pet take you hiking balloon
• Get spooked at the Stanley • Hang out with a feline at a cat cafe • Ski or board down snow or sand
• Treat yourself at the Broadmoor or • Take a selfie with wildlife (from a safe • Raft through white waters
Brown Palace distance) • Climb a rock wall
• Watch a street performance on Pearl • Proudly pose with a fish you caught • Cliff jump into water (from a safe spot)
(kissing optional) • Learn the difference between a stalactite
• Volunteer and make an animal’s day at a and stalagmite in a natural cave
shelter • Attempt to balance along a slackline
• Cruise down a mountain on a bike
Music
• See a show at Red Rocks (duh) Outside the box
• Dance to outdoor music in a park • Have a close encounter at the UFO
• See a show at Mishawaka Amphitheatre Watchtower
and camp nearby • Watch a cliff diver at Casa Bonita
• Take it up a notch with classical or opera • Shoot your own horror flick at Tiny Town
• Check out the local scene at the Under- • Celebrate Christmas in July at Santa’s
ground Music Showcase Workshop near Colorado Springs
• Make music around a campfire • Be the only person left in a ghost town
SPORTS BUCKET LIST: Discover the wildest • Crowd surf at a concert • Channel your inner paleontologist with
part of your Western side at a rodeo. The • Discover new talent at an open mic something dinosaur-related
Colorado State High School Rodeo • Ask to join a group jamming in a local • Find a famous grave
Association held the 2004 rodeo finals at park or on the street • Be the king or the queen of an actual cas-
the Jefferson County Fairgrounds. Helen • Embarrass yourself and others at karaoke tle
H. Richardson, Denver Post file • Check out the Movie Manor
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 63

Summer fun, all over the state


By Sarah Kuta
Special to The Denver Post

We might be best known for our


snowy ski slopes, but Colorado also re-
ally knows how to do summer. Drinks
on the patio, hiking, camping, fishing,
wildflowers — you get the idea. Across
the state, there’s an eclectic mix of fes-
tivals and events highlighting Colora-
do’s history, food, craft beer, spirits,
wine, artists, musicians, agricultural
staples and more. From rodeos to con-
certs, we’ve rounded up some of the
best Colorado has to offer during the
warmer months. Grab your calendar
and a pencil because you’re going to
want to start planning your epic sum-
mer now.

May
May 25-27
MeadowGrass Music Festival. Get an
early start on the musical festival scene
with MeadowGrass, which prides itself
on bringing eclectic musical acts to Colo-
rado. In addition to listening to more
than 20 national and local artists, you
can camp under the stars, practice yoga
and attend music workshops. There are
activities for kids, too, so go ahead and
bring the little ones along for the week-
end. La Foret Conference & Retreat Center,
6145 Shoup Road, Colorado Springs, mead-
owgrass.org
May 26-27
People fly through the air at the Boulder Creek Festival. Cliff Grassmick, Daily Camera file
Denver Arts Festival. The Denver Arts
Festival will celebrate its 20th anniversa- al Park, Manitou Springs, manitousprings
ry with artwork from more than 100 .org/calendar/manitou-springs-colorado-
Colorado artists and several national wine-festival
artists. Though admission and parking June 2
are free, organizers expect 50,000 people Cocktails on the Rocks. If mixed drinks
to attend over Memorial Day Weekend are more your thing, you’ll want to check
so you might want to get their early to out this event, which highlights more
nab a parking spot. Stapleton Conservato- than 150 Colorado-made spirits from
ry Green, 8304 E. 49th Place, Denver, local 30 distilleries. This event raises
denverartsfestival.com money for the Posner Center, a nonprofit
May 26-28 that supports international develop-
Boulder Creek Festival. For more than 30 ment. T.E.V. Edelweiss, 18022 Colorado 8,
years, this free three-day festival has Morrison, cococktailsontherocks.com
been ushering in the start of summer in June 7-10
Boulder. Kids will love the carnival rides, Parker Days. Parker Days feels more like
the fishing derby and the wildly popular a three-day party than a festival. There’s
rubber duck race, which raises money for a massive carnival with tons of rides and
programming for people with disabili- games, plus three stages for musical
ties. There will also be tons of live music, entertainment. Trace Adkins is the head-
performances by local dance troupes and liner for the festival’s 41st anniversary.
several beer gardens. Running the Bolder Admission is free. Downtown Parker,
Boulder on Memorial Day? Hit up the parkerdaysfestival.com
festival afterwards in your running gear. June 14-16
Located near Broadway and Canyon
The Parker Days Festival runs June 7-10 this year. Colorado BBQ Challenge. If your idea of a
Boulevard, Boulder, bceproductions.com/ Provided by Paul D. Weinrauch good time is eating mounds of barbecued
boulder-creek-festival ribs, brisket, chicken, pork and other dish-
May 26-27 May 26-28 June es, this is the festival for you. Taste deli-
Water World opening weekend. Dust off Territory Days. Take a trip back in time to June 2 cious barbecued meats and side dishes as
your family’s swimsuits and goggles. If the 1860s, when Colorado was just a terri- Manitou Springs Wine Festival. Colora- more than 70 teams compete to create
you’re looking for a relaxing day at the tory. This three-day street festival fea- do’s burgeoning wine scene is on display the best ‘cue in the Rockies. If you feel like
pool, take a float down the lazy river or tures live blacksmithing demonstrations, at this festival, where you can enjoy sweating out all that barbecue, there’s an
relax in your own private cabana. Want gunfight reenactments and gold panning, generous tastings from 30 local wineri aptly named Bacon Burner 6K race, too,
something that will get your heart rac- just like they did in the old wild West. es. Stroll through beautiful Memorial complete with bacon along the course.
ing? Plunge down the Zoomerang in an Admission is free. Old Colorado City, Colo- Park, with Pike’s Peak in the background, Main Street between Madison and Sixth
inner tube with the entire family. rado Avenue between 23rd and 27th streets, while sipping a glass of chardonnay or avenues, Frisco, townoffrisco.com/play/
8801 Pecos St., Federal Heights, Colorado Springs, pro-promotions.com/ merlot, made from the two most widely colorado-bbq-challenge/general-info/
waterworldcolorado.com pro-events/territory-days planted wine grapes in Colorado. Memori-
64 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8

June 14-17 June 22-24


FIBArk Whitewater Festival. Spend Fa- Colorado Brewers’ Festival. Love Colora-
ther’s Day weekend in Salida cheering on do craft beer? Of course you do. The Colo-
competitors as they navigate the rapids rado Brewers’ Festival, held every year in
of the Arkansas River, which will be downtown Fort Collins, plays host to
roaring from spring runoff. In between more than 40 Colorado breweries serving
races, be sure to check out the carnival, up more than 90 craft beers. The festival
concerts, food, beer and arts and crafts. also has tons of live music and a beer
This annual event, originally named school, where you can learn the tricks of
“First in Boating on the Arkansas,” has the trade from local brewers. If you’re
been going on since 1949. Admission is into rare beers, hit up the festival on
free. Salida, fibark.com Friday night for a special selection of
June 15-17 one-night-only brews. Washington Park,
Vail Craft Beer Classic. Though we’re Fort Collins, downtownfortcollins.com/
used to drinking craft beer in Vail as an events/colorado-brewers-festival
apres-ski drink, we can totally get on June 29-July 1
board with visiting this gorgeous Colora- Colorado Lavender Festival. Take a deep
do mountain town in the summer for breath and head to Western Colorado for
even more brews. You’ll get your fill — this annual festival honoring the calm-
and then some — at this beer fest featur- ing purple plant, which loves the dry
ing more than 300 beers, wine and spir- climate and lean soils found in Grand
its. Vail, vailcraftbeerclassic.com Junction, Palisade and the surrounding
June 15-17 areas. Palisade, coloradolavender.org/
Strawberry Days. As the name suggests, annual-lavender-festival.html
there are strawberries galore at this free
Glenwood Springs festival, which has July This year’s Telluride Bluegrass Festival starts June 21.
been an annual tradition for more than July 6-8 Dylan Langille, Denver Post file
120 years (hey, they must be doing some- Cherry Creek Arts Festival. This free
thing right). There’s a fashion show, the festival makes it easy to add a little
crowning of Miss Strawberry Days, an culture to your weekend. Check out
arts and crafts fair and a carnival. But exhibits from more than 200 juried
one of the highlights of this festival is visual artists, live music, delicious food
the annual parade, after which everyone and beverages and activities for kids.
eats free strawberries and ice cream. Denver’s Cherry Creek North Shopping
Glenwood Springs, strawberrydays.com District, cherrycreekartsfestival.org
June 21-24 July 6-15
Telluride Bluegrass Festival. Every year, Crested Butte Wildflower Festival. Crest-
thousands of people — “festivarians” — ed Butte is absolutely breathtaking in
flock from all over the world to the tiny July, when Mother Nature’s most vibrant
mountain town of Telluride for this four- colors are on display. You can participate
day music festival. And why shouldn’t in more than 200 events celebrating
they? The festival is held in a large Crested Butte’s wildflower bloom at this
grassy meadow surrounded by Tellu- 10-day festival, including photography
ride’s iconic mountains. In addition to classes, art workshops, garden tours,
listening to twangy bluegrass music to guided hikes, cooking classes and back-
your heart’s content, you can camp out country Jeep tours. Crested Butte,
under the stars. Telluride, bluegrass.com/ crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com
telluride/ July 12-15
June 22-July 4 High Mountain Hay Fever Festival. Lis-
Greeley Stampede. Break out your cow- ten to more than a dozen bluegrass art-
boy boots for this 10-day festival that ists at this small-but-mighty festival Dane Jackson spins in the FIBArk freestyle kayak contest as his father,
pays homage to Colorado’s western roots. overlooking the Sangre de Cristo Moun- kayaking legend Eric Jackson, looks on.
Check out the professional rodeo and tains. You can also meet the artists and Jason Blevins, Denver Post file
bullfighting events, the demolition der- learn more about bluegrass during a
by, the carnival or the many big-name series of workshops. Located near Main
country music acts that come to Greeley Street and Adams Boulevard in Westcliffe,
every year. This year’s confirmed head- July 19-22 expanded to include a car show, a golf
highmountainhayfever.org Telluride Yoga Festival. Center yourself tournament, mutton busting, live music
liners are Dustin Lynch, Darius Rucker, July 13-15
Roots & Boots and Aaron Watson. and get away from all the hustle and and a parade through town. Golden,
Slow Food Nations. Back for another bustle during this four-day yoga festival. buffalobilldays.com
Greeley, greeleystampede.org year in Denver, this three-day festival You’ll find a little something for every July 27-29
blends delicious food and beverage tast- yogi on the schedule, including medita- Mountain Fair. Since 1972, Carbondale
ings with serious policy discussions. tion, music, hiking, social gatherings, has been showcasing the creations of
Hear from experts, farmers and chefs food and stand-up paddleboard yoga. local artists at this three-day festival. It’s
about topics such as food waste, regener- Telluride, tellurideyogafestival.com a high-energy gathering that also fea-
ative agriculture, sustainability and July 20-22 tures non-stop live entertainment and
more. Don’t worry if all that talking Movie at the Symphony: “Harry Potter quirky contests — see you stack up in
about food makes you hungry — there’s and the Goblet of Fire” in Concert. If pie-baking, wood-splitting and limbo.
also an entire open-air marketplace you’re still waiting for your Hogwarts Admission is free. Carbondale,
where you can eat and drink to your letter to arrive, you’ll want to check out carbondalearts.com/mountain-fair/
heart’s content. Admission is free, this unique event in the meantime. July 28-29
though some events require tickets. Watch the full-length version of “Harry Colorado Dragon Boat Festival. Teams
Larimer Square, slowfoodnations.org Potter and the Goblet of Fire” while the from all over the country come to Denver
July 14-15 Colorado Symphony performs every note to compete in this free festival’s dragon
Hot Air Balloon Rodeo and Art in the of the music from the movie live. boat races, which honor a 2,000-year-old
Park. Together, these two festivals are Boettcher Concert Hall, https:// Chinese tradition. In between races, you
sure to be a feast for your eyes. Witness tickets.coloradosymphony.org/single/ can watch martial arts demonstrations,
brightly colored hot air balloons taking PSDetail.aspx?psn=4669 Chinese fan dances and other performanc-
flight and participate in fun contests, July 26-29 es showcasing different aspects of Asian
Barrel rider Christy Loflin, of such as dipping into Bald Eagle Lake. Buffalo Bill Days. In the 1940s, members culture. Be sure to attend the “Awakening
Franktown, rides to a winning Then, peruse works from more than 150 of the Buffalo Bill Saddle Club started an the Dragon” ceremony, a spiritual ritual
artists. Admission to both festivals is free. annual tradition of riding their horses up featuring a colorful, 75-foot dragon.
short-run at the Greeley Bald Eagle Lake, 35565 S. U.S. 40, Steam- Lookout Mountain to visit Buffalo Bill’s Sloan’s Lake, Denver, cdbf.org
Stampede. Courtesy of Dan Hubbell, boat Springs, steamboatchamber.com/ grave. Since then, the free event has
Hubbell Rodeo Photos signature-events/hot-air-balloon-rodeo
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Aug. 17-19
Rocky Mountain Folks Festival. Pack a
picnic, grab a blanket and mellow out
during this low-key folk music festival.
This year’s lineup features Indigo Girls,
Jeff Tweedy, Los Lobos and more than a
dozen other artists. Lyons, bluegrass.com/
folks/lineup.html
Aug. 24-Sept. 3
Colorado State Fair. Celebrate our great
state’s agricultural roots at this annual
event featuring concerts, a carnival, rodeo
events, monster trucks and livestock exhi-
bitions. Of course, every experienced fair-
goer knows you can’t leave until you’ve
had some fried food on a stick. Pueblo,
coloradostatefair.com
Aug. 31-Sept. 2
Four Corners Folk Festival. Relax among
the ponderosa pines as you jam out to
Nahko and Medicine for the People, Amy
Helm, We Banjo 3 and tons of other folk,
bluegrass and Americana artists. Pagosa
Springs, folkwest.com
Aug. 31-Sept. 2
Jazz Aspen Snowmass’ Labor Day Experi-
ence. The folks at Jazz Aspen Snowmass
have put together a pretty incredible line-
up for this end-of-summer music festival.
Headliners include Lionel Ritchie, Jack
Johnson, Zac Brown Band, Michael Franti
& Spearhead and Fitz and the Tantrums.
Snowmass, jazzaspensnowmass.org

September
Sept. 1-3
A Taste of Colorado. This end-of-summer
festival has it all: delicious food from
more than 50 vendors, carnival rides,
Heather Morton-Burtness of Morton’s Orchards in Palisade helps customers during the Lafayette Peach Festival. musical performances and an arts and
Cliff Grassmick, Daily Camera file crafts marketplace. You’ll truly get a sam-
pling of everything Colorado has to offer.
July 28-Aug. 11 Even better? Admission is free. Civic Cen-
Vail Dance Festival. Treat your eyes and ter Park, Denver, atasteofcolorado.com
ears to more than a dozen dance perfor- Sept. 1
mances and events during this two-week Wild West Air Fest. Bring your whole
festival. Immerse yourself in performanc- family out for a day filled with aerobatics,
es ranging from contemporary ballet to formation flying demonstrations and
tap dancing. Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater, other aviation activities in Steamboat
Vail, vaildance.org Springs. If you’re feeling gutsy, you can
even schedule your own private plane ride
August while you’re there. Steamboat Springs,
Aug. 3-5 steamboatchamber.com/signature-events/
Leadville Boom Days. Head to Leadville to labor-day-weekend/wild-west-air-fest
for a weekend full of burro races and min- Sept. 6-9
ing competitions in celebration of this Longs Peak Scottish-Irish Highland Festi-
tiny mountain town’s history. There’s also val. Break out your kilt because there’s
a car show, a parade, gunslingers and, of room for every clan at this festival. Expect
course, more than 100 food and craft traditional Scottish athletics, jousting,
booths. Admission is free. Leadville, Celtic dancing, bagpipe competitions and
leadvilleboomdays.org even a dog parade. And, of course, deli-
Aug. 4-5 cious Scottish and Irish food and drink.
Bluegrass & Beer Festival. Bluegrass, beer Estes Park, scotfest.com
and mountains — need we say more? Sip Sept. 8
beer from more than 40 craft breweries Snowmass Septemberfest and Cider Festi-
while you jam to more than 14 national val. Back for its second year, September-
and regional bluegrass artists. There’s also fest celebrates all things fall with music,
a kids’ zone for your little ones. Keystone, wine and sake tastings, food and kids’
keystonefestivals.com/festivals/ Shayne Snyder of Delta hugs her lamb before presenting him for bidding activities. New this year is a cider festival
bluegrass-and-beer/ during the Junior Livestock Sale at the Colorado State Fair. Her lamb went featuring hard ciders from more than 25
Aug. 4 cideries all over the country. Snowmass,
Olathe Sweet Corn Festival. How could
for $2,100. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file gosnowmass.com/event/snowmass-
you go wrong with an event dedicated to septemberfest
sweet corn? You can’t. For more than 25 Sept. 14-16
years, this festival has celebrated the an- fect for a hot, late-summer afternoon and cycling into one giant party. Catch the Downtown Boulder’s Fall Fest. Wave good-
nual harvest with big-name musical acts, snack. This festival celebrates the glorious start and the finish of the Colorado Classic bye to summer (and say hello to autumn!)
adult beverages, arts and craft vendors Palisade peach with four days of food, pro cycling race, as well as several criteri- at Downtown Boulder’s Fall Fest. Before the
and all the free sweet corn you can eat. entertainment, running races, orchard um races. There’s also a bike expo, activi- leaves start to change, wander up and
Olathe, olathesweetcornfest.com tours, contests and kids’ activities. Pali- ties for kids and, oh yeah, a sweet musical down Pearl Street Mall sipping craft beer,
Aug. 16-19 sade, palisadepeachfest.com lineup featuring Glass Animals, Cold War listening to live music, watching street
Palisade Peach Festival. Everyone knows Aug. 17-19 Kids, Vince Staples, Matt and Kim and performers and perusing the artisan offer-
that Palisade peaches are some of the best Velorama Festival and Colorado Classic other artists. Denver, axs.com/ ings from vendors at the Firefly Handmade
in the world — it’s not even a contest. Pro Cycling. This young festival, which is events/332178/velorama-festival-tickets marketplace. Admission is free. Boulder,
They’re juicy, intensely flavorful and per- in its second year, brings together music boulderdowntown.com/events/fall-fest
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Parting shot
Capitol Peak outfitters Jared Wester, in front, and Connor Quezada, in back,
lead a couple on a horseback day trip along Upper Capitol Creek Trail in the
Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wildernes. Capitol Peak, in the background, reaches
14,131 feet at its summit. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
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079144 Broadmoor • Close To Home_Denver Post BC • 10" x 11.5" • 4/25/18

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