Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Summer Getaways
Summer Getaways
Summer
Getaways
Easy A long
pedaling weekend
around in Crested
Grand Butte
Junction
Plus: Arts events,
Lakeside dude ranches,
hot springs
camping and a literary
tour of Colorado
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 3
Contents
Country roads provide a spectacular view of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, clouds and sky in the San Luis Valley near Hooper. Joe Amon, Denver Post file
STORIES FEATURES
Easy pedaling around A solo road trip | 4 Giving back | 15
Grand Junction | 8 Sustainable retreats | 12 Northern Utah | 20
Dude ranches | 16 Geologic wonders | 23
A long weekend in Dining along the way |24 Literary Colorado | 32
Roadside attractions | 28 Divine highs
Crested Butte | 34 Pagosa Springs | 40 and devilish lows| 37
The Creative Corridor | 50 Hot springs | 44
Vacation rentals | 45
Lakeside camping Vacation with the arts | 56
Extravagant vacations | 54
Colorado travel bucket list | 60
in Colorado | 46 Casino playground | 59
Calendar | 63
PHOTOS
ON THE COVER:
Tylor Nation enjoys the view from Lookout Mountain. Colorado wildlife | 38-39
Daniel Brenner, Special to the Denver Post Parting shot | 66
4 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
The hot springs border the San Juan River in Pagosa Springs. Amy Brothers, Denver Post file
lonesome cliffs and their melancholy ruins named Retro Inn (2040 E. Main St., 970-565-
sooner. The kivas seem mysterious and 3738, retroinnmesaverde.com). From the
exotic, but the Ancestral Puebloans who fiberglass Elvis to the gleaming laminate
crafted shelter and ceremonial spaces in lobby, this old-fashioned but completely
the sandstone alcoves 1,400 years ago remodeled motel is straight out of “I Love
shared the same struggles we face today. Lucy.” Metal chairs outside each door en-
Scarce resources. The deaths of loved courage guests to enjoy a neighborly chat,
ones. Goblin exes. maybe share a beer or two.
The morning is comfortably overcast, The next morning on this whirlwind
perfect for climbing about the kivas. But tour, I say goodbye ... but only after a bis-
the rains return, and it’s time to move on. cuit-filled breakfast at Pippo’s Cafe (100 W.
The 15-mile drive down to the park en- Main St., 970-565-6039, pipposcafe98.wix-
trance is hairier than the ascent -- espe- site.com/mysite/menu). A locals’ favorite,
cially now that I’m on the outside lane and the diner is run down but homey, with
can see just how far I’d plummet. But friendly service and hearty portions. The
Jethro holds the hairpins, and with deep cop who spared me a ticket last night is
breaths and lots of downshifting we make also eating, and gives me a slow nod of
it out of Mesa Verde. warning. “Yes, officer. And thanks for the
I didn’t choose to spend the night in Cor- recommendation, officer.” The Saab and I
tez just because I heard they have a good depart at a sedate 25 miles an hour.
Thai restaurant, but ... OK I did. Tiny and There are a lot of things to recommend
packed, with a one-hour wait, Thai Cortez solo road trips. One is that you can blast
A kiva dug within the Sun Point Pueblo, along the Mesa Top (1430 E. Main St. Suite D, 970-5643151, thai- Snoop Dogg with zero judgment from a
Loop in Mesa Verde National Park. Joe Amon, Denver Post file cortez.wordpress.com) almost makes this guy who listens to Wagner. Another is that
former Bangkok resident burst into spicy you can yell “Oh my God!” to yourself and
tears of joy. Stuffed with duck curry and swerve every few miles to take photos that
shrimp dumplings, I retire to the aptly in no way capture the majesty of the
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 7
By Nancy Lofholm Special to The Denver Post itself. Along the way you will enjoy riverside A cyclist begins
vistas that will drop, not elevate, your blood the ascent in
You’ve come to the Grand Valley with your road bike to pressure. There are patches of towering cot- Colorado
tonwoods for shade and occasional benches National
tackle the iconic rides: You’ve huffed and sweated over for contemplation. Riding west from Grand Monument, near
Junction brings long stretches with views of
the Colorado National Monument, or maybe granny- the national monument. Add in the short
Grand Junction,
during Ride the
geared the grueling 13-mile climb up Little Park Road. Walter Walker State Wildlife Area loop for good
Rockies.
bird spotting. Riding east is a little more bu-
That was yesterday. Now, how about doing colic, a little less desert-y. You will spin by Callaghan O'Hare,
what the local cyclists do for a day of in-the- cow pastures, grazing horses and a field of Denver Post file
saddle R&R: take a spin on the ever-improv- rusted antique vehicles lined up like museum
ing, paved Colorado Riverfront Trail. Instead of pieces. Around Corn Lake you can check the
trying to get from point A to B with Strava progress of scads of worm-dangling anglers.
goading you to go faster, look at this as a no- Regardless of which way you go, the best
rush, enjoyable ride, with calorie replenish- place to begin is with a stop at Enstrom Can-
ment as a primary goal. dies. Inside the cavernous candy factory in
Simply riding the more than 25-mile-long downtown Grand Junction is a sweet little
trail along the Colorado River is a treat in coffee shop where you can grab a pastry or
10 T H E D E N V E R P O ST SUM ME R GE TAWAYS 201 8
Fruita, with the Book Cliffs in the distance, is seen from the Colorado National Monument, just south of the Colorado River. Thinkstock by Getty Images
PLACES TO GO
Enstrom Candies
enstrom.com. 701 Colorado Ave., Grand
Junction. 970-242-1655. Opens 8 a.m. Satur-
day and weekdays, 10 a.m. Sunday
Coffee drinks, including a righteous cap-
puccino. Try a cinnamon roll, a slab-sized
scone or a well-stuffed breakfast burrito.
For after rides, try an ever-changing menu
of homemade ice creams, or have the
friendly staff whip it into a shake or malt.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 11
Summertime
Riverfront
Biking
Trail tips
• Grab a Riverfront
Trail map at a local
bike shop so you
can navigate a few
tricky sections.
• Leave early
enough in the
morning to avoid
the midday heat,
and bring plenty
of water.
• Mind your
manners. The trail
is not the place for
high speed or to be
frightening
walkers or toddlers
on Striders. Bells
The Peach Street Distillers in Palisade serves up bloody Marys in quart jars bristling with greenery. Denver Post file are a good thing.
• Plan for morning
headwinds
heading into
Bestslope Coffee Company
bestslopecoffee.com. 129 N. Peach St., Fruita. Palisade. It is just a
970-639-8622. Opens 7 a.m. fact of life that
Coffee geeks will think they have just winds funnel down
rolled into heaven. Take your pick here of from the Grand
coffee alchemy: French press, Aeropress, Mesa.
Chemex, Kalita Wave and Nitro brews
with in-house roasted beans. If they aren’t • Follow the trail,
sold out, try the brown-butter chocolate and events along
chip cookies. it, at oneriver
The Palisade Café 11.0 front.org/trails.
palisadecafe11.com. 113 W. Third St., Pali- — Nancy Lofholm
sade. 970-464-2888. Open 8 a.m., Saturday
and Sunday, 11:30 Wednesday-Friday, closed
Monday and Tuesday
True farm-to-table food (even the pottery
dishes are locally made). Try eggs benedict
strata, fancy grilled cheese or torrijas — an
oxymoronic Spanish French toast.
Peach Street Distillers
peachstreetdistillers.com. 144 Kluge Ave.,
Palisade. 970-464-1128. Open 12 p.m.
Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m. Sunday
Try a legendary Bloody Mary, or dive
into a full slate of innovative cocktails and
sodas made with local fruits. Often you
will find a food truck parked alongside the Richard Rose, left, enjoys dinner with friend Mike Pacini and his daughter Charlotte
distillery serving everything from wood- at The Hot Tomato in Fruita. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
fired pizza to fried perogies.
Hot Tomato Pizzeria
hottomatopizza.com. 124 N. Mulberry St.,
Fruita. 970-858-1117. Open 11 a.m. Tuesday-
Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday
Try a creative pie like the Icarus, the
Stinky Deluxe or the long-time favorite
Granny’s Pesto. Or go for the addicting
stromboli, a can’t miss at $3.75 a slice.
Wash it down with an award-winning brew
from the local Copper Club or your favor-
ite New Belgium or Odell hops.
12 T HE D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
Sustainable stays
At the Home Ranch, outside of Steamboat, the on-site organic garden, greenhouse and ranch-raised livestock fuel the chef’s efforts in the kitchen. Don
Tudor, provided by Home Ranch
Arena Games at Sundance Trail Ranch, one of the smallest of the Early morning light hits head wrangler Bill Fisher from the horse
Colorado dude ranches. Provided by Sundance Trail barn at the C Lazy U Ranch. Denver Post file
Adventures in Dinosaurland
The area around Flaming Gorge offers outdoor adventures from mountain biking to whitewater rafting and fishing. Thinkstock by Getty Images
By Kim Fuller Special to The Denver Post Springs a great craft food and beer stop. Wine, beer and
The Den’Var Pils is a refreshing yet full- cocktails are
Let’s be real: The journey to and from Denver on Interstate 70 can flavored choice on draft, but only order available at the
the barrel-aged German Macarthur’s bar at Hovey &
be pretty frustrating if you’re dealing with traffic or weather, so it’s Scotch Ale if you’re a passenger on this Harrison. Provided
trip, because it’s packing a big ABV. Snack by Hovey & Harrison
best to plan on some great food and drink breaks along the way. on the Buffalo Chicken Nachos, topped
If you’re heading out for a mountain with a blue-cheese slaw, or pair a brew
getaway or coming home from a grand with house-made bratwurst on a bed of
adventure, here are some establishments braised red cabbage. 1617 Miner St., 720-
where memorable meals are made and the 502-3121, westboundanddown.com
drinks hit the spot — all the way from
Denver to the Utah border. Jenny’s Restaurant
Empire
Westbound & Down Drivers exit the highway and pass
Brewing Company through the town of Empire when they’re
Idaho Springs coming or going from Winter Park, but
Westbound & Down has made Idaho those who stop in for a full meal or slice of
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 25
Sweet Basil is a
modern
American
restaurant
located in the
heart of the Vail
Village. Scott
Cramer, Provided by
Sweet Basil
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 27
Prosit
Avon (and Frisco)
Bavaria doesn’t feel so far away here.
Prosit is a German-style beer hall serving
imported drafts and authentic sausages. A
stein of the Hofbrau Munchen dunkel with
a elk-jalapeno-cheddar sausage is the per-
fect après-adventure order. Pair it with a
freshly baked Bavarian pretzel and Austri-
an liptauer cheese. Avon: 82 E. Beaver
Creek Blvd., 970-949-7730, einprosi-
tavon.com. Frisco: 313 Main St., 970-668-
3688, prostfinebeers.com
Truffle potato pierogis at The Pullman
Hovey & Harrison in Glenwood Springs. Denver Post file
Edwards
This gem just opened in 2017 and has
already established itself as the new com- on refined American comfort food, draw-
munity hang out. Stop in early for a farm ing its dish inspiration from seasonal in-
breakfast and an order of monkey bread to gredients — served with a dash of deca-
share, or come for an afternoon pick-me- dence. Snacks like pickled bacon deviled
up with a tumeric latte. Wine, beer and eggs with maple gastrique draw attention,
cocktails are also available at the bar, and a along with well done classics like The
full selection of grab-and-go prepared Pullman grass-fed burger. 330 Seventh St.,
food, a produce section and homemade 970-230-9234, thepullmangws.com
bread can make road trips more manage-
able. 56 Edwards Village Blvd., Unit 120, Palisade Brewing Company Returning from Winter Park, Clay Binkley
970-446-6830, hoveyandharrison.com Palisade and Menuela Larsen stop for lunch at
Everything you can drink is in Palisade, Jenny's Restaurant in Empire.
Trigo Food Co. and it’s made there, too. From wine to ci- Denver Post file
Gypsum der to spirits and beer, this town’s offer-
It’s kind of a secret, but not for long. In ings invites guests to drink up and stay
Gypsum, across from the high school and awhile (maybe even overnight). Wineries Hot Tomato Pizza
in a big orange food trailer, Trigo Food by tend to be the draw here, but don’t miss Fruita
owner and chef Rodrigo Gastelum has the the Palisade Brewing Company for a Dirty Mountain bikers know where to go after
best street tacos on I-70. Try his barbacoa Hippie dark American wheat and a platter an epic ride in Fruita, and travelers on the
and carne asada tacos, and the pork green of house-smoked pulled-pork nachos. Dur- way into Utah know this is a good spot for
chile. 970-331-4232, 500 U.S. 6 ing harvest season, be sure to grab peaches a last bite on a lonely road. Hot Tomato
at a roadside stand on your way out of Pizza has slices, full pizzas, calzones and
The Pullman town. 200 Peach Ave., 970-464-1462, pali- strombolis, along with local beer and wine.
Glenwood Springs sadebrewingcompany.com It’s all good, but you won’t forget the Hot
If you’re on the west side of Glenwood Mess, a pie made with spicy chipotle pesto
Canyon, The Pullman is a must-stop. Lo- sauce, mozzarella, spinach, tomatoes, ba-
cated just a block from The Hotel Denver con, garlic and blue cheese. 124 N. Mulber-
on Seventh Street, the eatery prides itself ry St., 970-858-1117, hottomatopizza.com
28 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
10 off-the-beaten-path
attractions in Colorado
Above, the giant Hercules beetle at the entrance to the May Natural History Museum, off of Colorado 115 outside of
Colorado Springs, has a name: Herkimer. Denver Post file
Creator Jim Bishop broke ground on the A group of artists refurbished a water tank near Rangely for acoustic recording and concerts. RJ Sangosti,
mystical-looking citadel Bishop’s Castle Denver Post file
some 60 years ago. Daily Record file
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 31
A sign welcomes
visitors to the
UFO Watchtower,
an elevated metal
platform offering
a view the skies,
and perhaps
travelers from
outer space. Andy
Cross, Denver Post file
DAY 3
Coffee, again
Head to Camp 4 Coffee (402 ½ Elk Ave.,
camp4coffee.com) for premium roasted
brew and fresh-baked pastries. Don’t fret
about the line at the door — the baristas
inside this intimate shop move with expert
efficiency.
Get your feet wet
It’s not all adrenaline all the time in
Crested Butte. Some of the state’s best
trout fishing can be found in nearby water-
Temple Robertson of Crested Butte takes aim at a 3D target atop Crested Butte ways, drawing anglers from around the
Mountain Resort. Denver Post file world. Book a half or full-day guided tour
with Dragonfly Anglers (rates start at $295
Bakery (21 Elk Ave., theguildcafecb.com) is for a half day, dragonflyanglers.com) and
DAY 2 a must-visit. Need a heartier breakfast? get insider access and tips.
Choose from the wide selection of break-
Pour over and croissants fast burritos, egg sandwiches, quiche and Spice it up
Every good adventure should start with more. Round out your visit with dinner at the
craft coffee made with meticulously roast- Ginger Café (425 Elk Ave., thegingerca-
ed beans and a homemade almond crois- Play hard fe.com), where you’ll find Pan-Asian cui-
sant, which is why the Guild Cafe, home to With so many endorphin-pumping trails sine with a Colorado twist, like the Colora-
First Ascent Coffee and Mountain Oven Organic that climb amidst the myriad peaks sur- do lamb korma.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 37
A curious badger pops its head out of its hole on a ranch near Rifle.
Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
A herd of young male Rocky Mountain Bighorn sheep hang out on a hillside in Basalt.
The sheep’s horns alone can weigh up to 30 pounds. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
A marmot climbs a rock in a talus field near Capitol Lake, below Capitol Peak in the
Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
THE D E NVE R P O ST S UMME R G E TAWAYS 201 8 39
A wild horse grazes on land in the Bureau of Land Management’s Little Book Cliffs Wilderness Study Area
near Grand Junction. Gabriel Scarlett, Denver Post file
Inhabiting
When warm weather arrives in Colorado, streams
burst as the snow melts, wildflowers erupt in mountain
meadows and animals hidden in the winter months
emerge in the sunshine. The annual spectacle delights
visitors of all kinds, from those motoring through Colo-
the wild
rado’s national parks to outdoors enthusiasts wander-
ing into river lands and remote, craggy spaces.
Some animals were there all along: The same gray jay
that wants to snatch the sandwich out of your hand on a
summer hike overwintered high in the forest, diving for
places
snowshoers’ snacks as well. Others, such as black bears,
were invisible through the snowy months.
A deer passes through the backcountry near From high plains to canyon country to the tundra
Medano Pass at Great Sand Dunes National above treeline, Colorado teems with life in the summer,
Park. Joe Amon, Denver Post file and each year, Denver Post photographers seek out
places to capture a moment in the life of our state’s wild
inhabitants. Here are a few images to inspire your own
breathless seconds trying to capture a photograph — at
a distance, please — of our state’s amazing animals.
the cold water to reset your thermostat. excuse to get out of the car and work those Jagged peaks in
Pools are marked by temperature; test them legs. Yes, you can see it from the parking the Weminuche
and find the perfect one for you. Being a lot, but you’ll want to take the short walk Wilderness create
hotel guest comes with perks, like 24-hour right up to the base of these 100-foot falls. a dramatic
access to the springs and a quieter, adults- In Pagosa, dirt roads around town fan out backdrop for the
only area. In the morning, you’re likely to into a wonderland of routes for mountain
hike to Fourmile
have a pool to yourself for a sunrise soak. biking or ATV runs. But for a spectacular
The resort has a range of rooms in three hike, head into the Weminuche Wilderness, Falls, outside of
lodge buildings (the newest has a bar), so which encompasses the dense forest and Pagosa Springs.
there’s something for everyone. rugged peaks looming north of Pagosa Jenn Fields, The
pagosahotsprings.com, 165 Hot Springs Springs. A suggested hike: From the Fourmile Denver Post
Blvd., 970-264-4168 Trailhead (up Fourmile Road), take the 3.5-
mile (one-way) hike to a towering waterfall
Hike careening down a precipitous cliff. Get close
For those making the trek in to Pagosa enough to feel the spray, then watch for
Springs from the east, the short hike to summer birds, such as Western Tanagers,
Treasure Falls, on the west side of Wolf on the return hike.
The short hike to Treasure Falls, just off Creek Pass along U.S. 160, is a welcome Congrats, you’ve earned that nighttime
Wolf Creek Pass, is a good place to get soak in the hot springs.
out of the car and walk during a road
trip. Jenn Fields, The Denver Post
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 43
Visitors line up at Kip’s Grill and Cantina, an area favorite in Pagosa Springs. Joe Amon, Denver Post file
Riff Raff Brewing Company bartender and server Sydney Aragon pours pints of the pub’s “Earth Powered
Beer.” Joe Amon, Denver Post file
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 45
Teal
Campground
sites have
gorgeous views
of Williams
Creek Reservoir
and the San Juan
mountains
beyond. Joshua
Berman, Special to
The Denver Post
Haviland Lake
North of Durango
Haviland Lake is an attractive destina-
tion, and it’s a short drive from Durango,
so it’s a convenient stopover on the famed
Million Dollar Highway. The lake is
stocked and practically lined with kids
fishing with powerbait and hauling out
trout. It’s a good lake for fly-fishing and a
beautiful place to paddle a canoe. There’s
a short interpretive trail for hikers. This is
a modern, well-designed facility. There
are four interlaced gravel loops on a hill-
side overlooking the lake. The sites are
terraced and have large pull-ins, so they
work well for tent camping and RVs. Most
of them are screened by aspen, so even
when the campground is full, it’s easy to
find privacy.
If you go: 43 sites for tents and RVs up
to 45 feet. Some sites and all facilities are
wheelchair accessible. Reservations ac-
cepted at 26 of the sites, at 877-444-6777
and recreation.gov. $20 per night, plus an
additional $16 for electricity and premium
lakeside sites. San Juan National Forest,
Columbine District, 970-884-2512,
The author’s daughter admires the view of East Beckwith Mountain from Lost Lake www.fs.usda.gov/sanjuan
Campground. Joshua Berman, Special to The Denver Post
Arapaho Bay
On Lake Granby
Bear Lake If you go: 15 boat-in sites for tent camp- Arapaho Bay is the most remote and
West of Yampa ing. No hookups. Fire rings provided. Vault attractive of the four campgrounds on
Up the Bear River valley, not far from toilets available at sites 1, 2 and 5-10. Trash Lake Granby. It is located on the eastern
the Flat Tops Wilderness area, the second- must be packed out. Reservations are rec- tip of the long arm of the lake, beneath the
largest wilderness in the state, this lake is ommended at www.larimercamping.com magnificent Indian Peaks Wilderness. The
enclosed by the volcanic cliffs of the Flat and 800-397-7795. $20 per night. Campers Roaring Fork, Monarch Lake and Straw-
Tops, and the valley is lush with aspen, must also purchase a daily Larimer County berry Lake Trails begin near the camp-
spruce and fir. The area is managed jointly pass ($7) or an annual pass. Larimer Coun- ground and connect with the Buchanan
by Medicine Bow-Routt National Forests ty Department of Natural Resources, Pass, Cascade Creek and Continental Di-
and the Division of Wildlife, so the trout 970-679-4570, www.larimer.org/ vide trails. Anglers can fish for mackinaw
fishery has an excellent reputation. Bear naturalresources or kokanee salmon from the shore or by
Lake is open to electric and hand-powered boat.
boats, and there is a boat ramp on Yamco- Teal If you go: 84 sites for tents and RVs up
lo Reservoir for larger boats. The Mandall North of Pagosa Springs to 40 feet, on three loops. No hookups.
Lakes Trail begins opposite the camp- Teal campground is on the western Reservations accepted at 877-444-6777
ground and climbs onto the Flat Tops Pla- shore of Williams Creek Reservoir and and www.recreation.gov. A single site
teau. Several more trails begin at Stillwater features dramatic views of the San Juans costs $19 per night, and a double site costs
Reservoir. This is the best campground in towering above the lake. Cimarrona Peak $38 per night. Vehicles must also have a
the valley for families and RVs. It’s divided and Chief and Toner mountains dominate daily pass ($5) for the Arapaho National
into two wooded loops. the horizon to the north. To the east, Rock Recreation Area. Arapaho National For-
If you go: 43 sites for tents and RVs up to Mountain juts out of the surrounding est, Sulphur District, 970-887-4100,
30 feet, including four double sites, one slopes. Behind the campground, the slopes www.fs.usda.gov/arp
triple site and two walk-in tent sites. No are covered in aspen groves. The 343-acre
hookups. Reservations not accepted. $10 reservoir has good trout and kokanee May Queen
per night for a single site, $20 per night for a salmon fishing in early summer. Small Turquoise Lake
double, $30 per night for a triple. Medicine sailboats, canoes and kayaks are frequent- May Queen is the only campground at
Bow-Routt National Forests, Yampa Dis- ly on the lake. Hikers can drive to the near- the west end of Turquoise Lake, at about
trict, 970-638-4516, www.fs.usda.gov/mbr by Williams Creek and Cimarrona trail- 10,000 feet. Hike into the Holy Cross and
heads. The campground has two loops. Mount Massive wilderness areas, or on the
Horsetooth Reservoir Boat-in The right loop has just five sites, all with Colorado Trail, which passes by the camp-
West of Fort Collins excellent views and lots of shade. The left ground entrance. Many people bring ca-
There are 15 boat-in only sites tucked loop has 11 sites close to the lake. Sites 6-12 noes or kayaks, which they carry down to
into the coves on the lake’s western shore. overlook the water. These sites are closer the lake (the nearest boat ramp is 6 miles
Horsetooth is also a popular fishing desti- together and have less shade, but you are away, though). Most of the sites are widely
nation for white bass and walleye (but also allowed to walk your tent down and distributed away from the road in a conif-
check with Colorado Parks and Wildlife pitch it in small clusters of pines. erous forest; you’ll find the most privacy at
about mercury levels before consuming If you go: 16 sites for tents and RVs up to the walk-in sites.
any fish). Dixon Cove, Quarry Cove and 35 feet. No hookups. San Juan National If you go: 17 sites for tents and RVs up to
the main shore (sites 1-8) are most popular Forest, Pagosa District, 970-264-2268, 32 feet and 12 walk-in tent sites. No hook-
with families. South and North Eltuck www.fs.usda.gov/sanjuan ups. Reservations accepted at 877-444-
Coves (sites 11-14) have a reputation for 6777 and www.recreation.gov. $20 per
being the party coves. The northern camp- night. Pike and San Isabel National For-
sites (9-15) offer access to hiking and bik- ests, Leadville District, 719-486-0749,
ing trails in Lory State Park. www.fs.usda.gov/psicc
50 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
Paddlers navigate
the Arkansas
River above
Salida. Lou Visual,
Provided by Badfish
Vintage furniture
and bold floral
wallpaper earn
The Biker & The
Baker points for
ambiance. Jenny
Folman, Provided by
The Biker & The Baker
Salida’s downtown is lined with studios, galleries and locally owned eateries, many in The Biker & The Baker has an ever-changing dessert menu.
charming Victorian-era buildings. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file Jenny Folman, Provided by The Biker & The Baker
Salida Walk (June 21-24) will include local art- Where to eat: Satiate your sweet tooth
The Arkansas River cuts through Salida’s ists, musicians, street performers and at The Biker and The Baker (123 W. First St.,
downtown, drawing rafters and kayakers, artist demos, plus an event dedicated to 719-207-4001, thebikerandthebaker.com)
and the nearby Collegiate Peaks are a draw the culinary arts. For a unique stay, the which has an inventive and ever-changing
for those looking to upward to the nearby Mountain Goat Lodge (9582 U.S. 285, 719- dessert menu. (Think: Peanut butter and
fourteeners. But Salida is much more than 539-7173, mountaingoatlodge.com) is a bacon chocolate cake or blueberry poppy-
an outdoor-lover’s paradise. Its down- bed and breakfast just outside of town seed creme brûlée). The dessert shop also
town is lined with studios, galleries and with friendly resident goats that provide sells wine, beer, cheese and charcuterie.
locally owned eateries, many in charming the milk for the lodge’s breakfasts and Vintage furniture and bold floral wallpa-
Victorian-era buildings. This year’s Art cheese-making classes. per earn it an “A” in ambiance.
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 53
Jim and
Elaine Brett
of Bowie
enjoy an
evening glass
of wine on
the porch
that
overlooks the
vineyards at
Leroux Creek
Inn and
Vineyards.
Denver Post file
The Ridgway Reservoir is a great place to camp, swim, paddleboard and sail. Dan
Wyner, Provided by Colorado Parks and Wildlife
Paonia
Paonia has a large share of organic farms,
orchards and vineyards, making it the con-
summate host for farm-to-table meals and
winemaker dinners. For a sample, pick fruit
and do a hard cider tasting at Delicious Or-
chards (39126 Colorado 133, Hotchkiss, 970-
527-1110, bigbs.com). In town, Grand Ave-
nue is idyllic, with turn-of-the-century
buildings housing local shops and restau-
rants, art galleries, a movie theater and a
radio station.
Where to eat: Try a five-course wine-
maker dinner at Leroux Creek Inn and Vine-
yards (12388 3100 Road, Hotchkiss, 970-872-
4746, lerouxcreekvineyards.com). The din-
ners are classic French cuisine and use
local produce, meat or fish from the organ-
ic farms and ranches in Delta County.
Ridgway
Artist Russ Chapman plays Paonia Town Park. Courtesy of JT Thomas More than 10 percent of the 900 residents
of Ridgway call themselves artists. Here’s a
snapshot: Billings Artworks makes Grammy
Crested Butte Purple Mountain (714 Gothic Ave., 970- Awards, and Panji Bags makes eco-friendly,
Crested Butte’s artistic credentials in- 349-5888, purplemountainlodge.com) is a hardcover cases for instruments. The re-
clude more than 70 creatives in town, bed and breakfast (plus beer!) that serves stored historic Sherbino Theater (604 Clin-
including metal workers, photographers, a select Colorado craft beer complimen- ton St., 970-318-0892, sherbino.org) offers
plein-air painters and ski manufacturers. tary to guests. live music, poetry readings and lectures
Take a self-guided tour of the galleries in Where to eat: The Secret Stash (303 Elk and the town does full-moon artist studio
the Elk Avenue historic district. Or, come Ave., 970-349-6245, secretstash.com) tours, setting its art walks apart.
for one of Crested Butte’s many festivals, serves wildly creative pizzas, including Where to eat: Provisions (616 Clinton St.,
including the Crested Butte Music Festival, one with a Thai peanut and coconut-curry 970-626-9861, provisionschef.com) is a Eu-
which runs in July and August or the Film base that’s finished with a sweet Thai chili ropean-style cafe with community-style
Festival that plays out Sept. 27-30. The sauce and chopped peanuts. tables inside an old barber shop.
54 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
By Ray Mark Rinaldi Special to The Denver Post new brand makes it easier to locate the The New York
operation, and the change has served to Philharmonic
High culture booms in Colorado’s high-altitude towns dur- energize the programming, now under the performs at
artistic direction of former Opera Colora- Bravo! Vail. The
ing the summer as museums, dance troupes, opera compa- do associate conductor Andres Cladera. orchestra joins
The official season is conveniently com-
nies and art festivals of every kind take advantage of a sur- pact, Aug. 9-11, but includes an impressive
The Philadelphia
Orchestra and the
plus of tourists and put on their best shows. variety of operatic styles, ranging from
Dallas Symphony
Mozart’s ancient “Don Giovanni” to Mil-
There are some constants in those hills, ton Granger’s newish “The Proposal.” Orchestra with
stalwarts like the Aspen Music Festival Insider tip: If you are looking for more mini-residencies
and Central City Opera, but each season culture in Steamboat during August, see this year.
unexpected options emerge and familiar what’s on stage at the nearby Strings in the Denver Post file
ones find a way to renew themselves. Mountains.
Here are some promising stops for 2018. Location: To be announced. Info: oper-
asteamboat.org
In Steamboat Springs,
opera reawakens In Breckenridge,
Opera Steamboat is the latest reincarna- a music fest with history
tion of the company that started out in The Breckenridge Music Festival traces
2002 as Emerald City Opera and never its playing back to 1980 and its annual clas-
quite found the audience it deserves. The sical concerts are one reason Breck has
58 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
EXTREME BUCKET
LIST: Fly down a
zipline. Keith
Kirchner enjoys
the ride on one of
the ziplines on the
course at Royal
Gorge Zip Line
tours. Helen H.
Richardson, Denver
Post file
ART BUCKET LIST: Find your favorite mural in the city. Denver artist Hollislana paints
“Experience” at Denver’s River North Art District. Hyoung Chang, Denver Post file
• Take the road to the sky, Mount Evans Street in Boulder or in Old Town Fort
Scenic Byway, the highest paved road in Collins Sports
North America • Visit a local dispensary • Cheer on the Rockies at Coors Field
• Traverse Rocky Mountain National Park • Dream of getting out of town at Denver’s • Kick it at a Rapids game or U.S. Soccer
via Trail Ridge Road Union Station match
• All aboard a historic railroad • Get up close and personal with your favor-
Food and drink • Go back in time at the Molly Brown ite Bronco at training camp
• Indulge in different cuisines at a food House • Discover the wildest part of your Western
hall • Be exactly a mile high on the steps of the side at a rodeo
• Raise a drink on a patio state Capitol or in Coors Field • Perfect that golf swing with a gorgeous
• Appreciate a craft beverage at a brewery • Dress the part with Rockmount Ranch view
or a taproom Wear or another local shop • Compete in a road race, or cheer others on
• Take a stance in the Colorado vs. New • Take a risk at Black Hawk, Central City • Ride in a bike race, or just watch
Mexico green chile rivalry or Cripple Creek • Play in a recreational sports league or
• Learn why Colorado has more than beer: compete with friends in a park
Tour a winery or distillery Animals • Root for one of Colorado’s minor league
• Eat Rocky Mountain Oysters (extra • Take a horseback ride teams
points for video) • Feed an animal at the Cheyenne Moun- • Speed things up by checking out a local
• Savor a classic Colorado summer treat tain Zoo race track
(for example: Palisade peaches, Rocky • Find an animal from a different continent
Ford cantaloupe or Olathe sweet corn) at the Wild Animal Sanctuary Extreme
• Shop at a farmers market • Choose a butterfly in your favorite color • Fly down a zipline
• Eat from a food truck at the Butterfly Pavilion • Make all your friends jealous by skydiv-
• Catch your own dinner • Reenact the same pose as an animal at ing
the Denver Zoo • Look down on Colorado from a hot air
Colorado only • Let your pet take you hiking balloon
• Get spooked at the Stanley • Hang out with a feline at a cat cafe • Ski or board down snow or sand
• Treat yourself at the Broadmoor or • Take a selfie with wildlife (from a safe • Raft through white waters
Brown Palace distance) • Climb a rock wall
• Watch a street performance on Pearl • Proudly pose with a fish you caught • Cliff jump into water (from a safe spot)
(kissing optional) • Learn the difference between a stalactite
• Volunteer and make an animal’s day at a and stalagmite in a natural cave
shelter • Attempt to balance along a slackline
• Cruise down a mountain on a bike
Music
• See a show at Red Rocks (duh) Outside the box
• Dance to outdoor music in a park • Have a close encounter at the UFO
• See a show at Mishawaka Amphitheatre Watchtower
and camp nearby • Watch a cliff diver at Casa Bonita
• Take it up a notch with classical or opera • Shoot your own horror flick at Tiny Town
• Check out the local scene at the Under- • Celebrate Christmas in July at Santa’s
ground Music Showcase Workshop near Colorado Springs
• Make music around a campfire • Be the only person left in a ghost town
SPORTS BUCKET LIST: Discover the wildest • Crowd surf at a concert • Channel your inner paleontologist with
part of your Western side at a rodeo. The • Discover new talent at an open mic something dinosaur-related
Colorado State High School Rodeo • Ask to join a group jamming in a local • Find a famous grave
Association held the 2004 rodeo finals at park or on the street • Be the king or the queen of an actual cas-
the Jefferson County Fairgrounds. Helen • Embarrass yourself and others at karaoke tle
H. Richardson, Denver Post file • Check out the Movie Manor
THE D ENVER P O ST S U MME R GE TAWAYS 201 8 63
May
May 25-27
MeadowGrass Music Festival. Get an
early start on the musical festival scene
with MeadowGrass, which prides itself
on bringing eclectic musical acts to Colo-
rado. In addition to listening to more
than 20 national and local artists, you
can camp under the stars, practice yoga
and attend music workshops. There are
activities for kids, too, so go ahead and
bring the little ones along for the week-
end. La Foret Conference & Retreat Center,
6145 Shoup Road, Colorado Springs, mead-
owgrass.org
May 26-27
People fly through the air at the Boulder Creek Festival. Cliff Grassmick, Daily Camera file
Denver Arts Festival. The Denver Arts
Festival will celebrate its 20th anniversa- al Park, Manitou Springs, manitousprings
ry with artwork from more than 100 .org/calendar/manitou-springs-colorado-
Colorado artists and several national wine-festival
artists. Though admission and parking June 2
are free, organizers expect 50,000 people Cocktails on the Rocks. If mixed drinks
to attend over Memorial Day Weekend are more your thing, you’ll want to check
so you might want to get their early to out this event, which highlights more
nab a parking spot. Stapleton Conservato- than 150 Colorado-made spirits from
ry Green, 8304 E. 49th Place, Denver, local 30 distilleries. This event raises
denverartsfestival.com money for the Posner Center, a nonprofit
May 26-28 that supports international develop-
Boulder Creek Festival. For more than 30 ment. T.E.V. Edelweiss, 18022 Colorado 8,
years, this free three-day festival has Morrison, cococktailsontherocks.com
been ushering in the start of summer in June 7-10
Boulder. Kids will love the carnival rides, Parker Days. Parker Days feels more like
the fishing derby and the wildly popular a three-day party than a festival. There’s
rubber duck race, which raises money for a massive carnival with tons of rides and
programming for people with disabili- games, plus three stages for musical
ties. There will also be tons of live music, entertainment. Trace Adkins is the head-
performances by local dance troupes and liner for the festival’s 41st anniversary.
several beer gardens. Running the Bolder Admission is free. Downtown Parker,
Boulder on Memorial Day? Hit up the parkerdaysfestival.com
festival afterwards in your running gear. June 14-16
Located near Broadway and Canyon
The Parker Days Festival runs June 7-10 this year. Colorado BBQ Challenge. If your idea of a
Boulevard, Boulder, bceproductions.com/ Provided by Paul D. Weinrauch good time is eating mounds of barbecued
boulder-creek-festival ribs, brisket, chicken, pork and other dish-
May 26-27 May 26-28 June es, this is the festival for you. Taste deli-
Water World opening weekend. Dust off Territory Days. Take a trip back in time to June 2 cious barbecued meats and side dishes as
your family’s swimsuits and goggles. If the 1860s, when Colorado was just a terri- Manitou Springs Wine Festival. Colora- more than 70 teams compete to create
you’re looking for a relaxing day at the tory. This three-day street festival fea- do’s burgeoning wine scene is on display the best ‘cue in the Rockies. If you feel like
pool, take a float down the lazy river or tures live blacksmithing demonstrations, at this festival, where you can enjoy sweating out all that barbecue, there’s an
relax in your own private cabana. Want gunfight reenactments and gold panning, generous tastings from 30 local wineri aptly named Bacon Burner 6K race, too,
something that will get your heart rac- just like they did in the old wild West. es. Stroll through beautiful Memorial complete with bacon along the course.
ing? Plunge down the Zoomerang in an Admission is free. Old Colorado City, Colo- Park, with Pike’s Peak in the background, Main Street between Madison and Sixth
inner tube with the entire family. rado Avenue between 23rd and 27th streets, while sipping a glass of chardonnay or avenues, Frisco, townoffrisco.com/play/
8801 Pecos St., Federal Heights, Colorado Springs, pro-promotions.com/ merlot, made from the two most widely colorado-bbq-challenge/general-info/
waterworldcolorado.com pro-events/territory-days planted wine grapes in Colorado. Memori-
64 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
Aug. 17-19
Rocky Mountain Folks Festival. Pack a
picnic, grab a blanket and mellow out
during this low-key folk music festival.
This year’s lineup features Indigo Girls,
Jeff Tweedy, Los Lobos and more than a
dozen other artists. Lyons, bluegrass.com/
folks/lineup.html
Aug. 24-Sept. 3
Colorado State Fair. Celebrate our great
state’s agricultural roots at this annual
event featuring concerts, a carnival, rodeo
events, monster trucks and livestock exhi-
bitions. Of course, every experienced fair-
goer knows you can’t leave until you’ve
had some fried food on a stick. Pueblo,
coloradostatefair.com
Aug. 31-Sept. 2
Four Corners Folk Festival. Relax among
the ponderosa pines as you jam out to
Nahko and Medicine for the People, Amy
Helm, We Banjo 3 and tons of other folk,
bluegrass and Americana artists. Pagosa
Springs, folkwest.com
Aug. 31-Sept. 2
Jazz Aspen Snowmass’ Labor Day Experi-
ence. The folks at Jazz Aspen Snowmass
have put together a pretty incredible line-
up for this end-of-summer music festival.
Headliners include Lionel Ritchie, Jack
Johnson, Zac Brown Band, Michael Franti
& Spearhead and Fitz and the Tantrums.
Snowmass, jazzaspensnowmass.org
September
Sept. 1-3
A Taste of Colorado. This end-of-summer
festival has it all: delicious food from
more than 50 vendors, carnival rides,
Heather Morton-Burtness of Morton’s Orchards in Palisade helps customers during the Lafayette Peach Festival. musical performances and an arts and
Cliff Grassmick, Daily Camera file crafts marketplace. You’ll truly get a sam-
pling of everything Colorado has to offer.
July 28-Aug. 11 Even better? Admission is free. Civic Cen-
Vail Dance Festival. Treat your eyes and ter Park, Denver, atasteofcolorado.com
ears to more than a dozen dance perfor- Sept. 1
mances and events during this two-week Wild West Air Fest. Bring your whole
festival. Immerse yourself in performanc- family out for a day filled with aerobatics,
es ranging from contemporary ballet to formation flying demonstrations and
tap dancing. Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater, other aviation activities in Steamboat
Vail, vaildance.org Springs. If you’re feeling gutsy, you can
even schedule your own private plane ride
August while you’re there. Steamboat Springs,
Aug. 3-5 steamboatchamber.com/signature-events/
Leadville Boom Days. Head to Leadville to labor-day-weekend/wild-west-air-fest
for a weekend full of burro races and min- Sept. 6-9
ing competitions in celebration of this Longs Peak Scottish-Irish Highland Festi-
tiny mountain town’s history. There’s also val. Break out your kilt because there’s
a car show, a parade, gunslingers and, of room for every clan at this festival. Expect
course, more than 100 food and craft traditional Scottish athletics, jousting,
booths. Admission is free. Leadville, Celtic dancing, bagpipe competitions and
leadvilleboomdays.org even a dog parade. And, of course, deli-
Aug. 4-5 cious Scottish and Irish food and drink.
Bluegrass & Beer Festival. Bluegrass, beer Estes Park, scotfest.com
and mountains — need we say more? Sip Sept. 8
beer from more than 40 craft breweries Snowmass Septemberfest and Cider Festi-
while you jam to more than 14 national val. Back for its second year, September-
and regional bluegrass artists. There’s also fest celebrates all things fall with music,
a kids’ zone for your little ones. Keystone, wine and sake tastings, food and kids’
keystonefestivals.com/festivals/ Shayne Snyder of Delta hugs her lamb before presenting him for bidding activities. New this year is a cider festival
bluegrass-and-beer/ during the Junior Livestock Sale at the Colorado State Fair. Her lamb went featuring hard ciders from more than 25
Aug. 4 cideries all over the country. Snowmass,
Olathe Sweet Corn Festival. How could
for $2,100. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file gosnowmass.com/event/snowmass-
you go wrong with an event dedicated to septemberfest
sweet corn? You can’t. For more than 25 Sept. 14-16
years, this festival has celebrated the an- fect for a hot, late-summer afternoon and cycling into one giant party. Catch the Downtown Boulder’s Fall Fest. Wave good-
nual harvest with big-name musical acts, snack. This festival celebrates the glorious start and the finish of the Colorado Classic bye to summer (and say hello to autumn!)
adult beverages, arts and craft vendors Palisade peach with four days of food, pro cycling race, as well as several criteri- at Downtown Boulder’s Fall Fest. Before the
and all the free sweet corn you can eat. entertainment, running races, orchard um races. There’s also a bike expo, activi- leaves start to change, wander up and
Olathe, olathesweetcornfest.com tours, contests and kids’ activities. Pali- ties for kids and, oh yeah, a sweet musical down Pearl Street Mall sipping craft beer,
Aug. 16-19 sade, palisadepeachfest.com lineup featuring Glass Animals, Cold War listening to live music, watching street
Palisade Peach Festival. Everyone knows Aug. 17-19 Kids, Vince Staples, Matt and Kim and performers and perusing the artisan offer-
that Palisade peaches are some of the best Velorama Festival and Colorado Classic other artists. Denver, axs.com/ ings from vendors at the Firefly Handmade
in the world — it’s not even a contest. Pro Cycling. This young festival, which is events/332178/velorama-festival-tickets marketplace. Admission is free. Boulder,
They’re juicy, intensely flavorful and per- in its second year, brings together music boulderdowntown.com/events/fall-fest
66 T H E D E N V E R POST SUMM E R GE TAWAYS 201 8
Parting shot
Capitol Peak outfitters Jared Wester, in front, and Connor Quezada, in back,
lead a couple on a horseback day trip along Upper Capitol Creek Trail in the
Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wildernes. Capitol Peak, in the background, reaches
14,131 feet at its summit. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
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079144 Broadmoor • Close To Home_Denver Post BC • 10" x 11.5" • 4/25/18