Journal of Natural Fibers

ISSN: 1544-0478 (Print) 1544-046X (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/wjnf20

Studying the Linear Density of Multi-Thread Fancy

Yarn Made from Natural Fibers Using the Design of
Experiments

Malek Alshukur & Alex Fotheringham

To cite this article: Malek Alshukur & Alex Fotheringham (2017): Studying the Linear Density of
Multi-Thread Fancy Yarn Made from Natural Fibers Using the Design of Experiments, Journal of
Natural Fibers, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2017.1354741

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2017.1354741

Published online: 07 Sep 2017.

Submit your article to this journal

Article views: 2

View related articles

View Crossmark data

Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at

http://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=wjnf20

Download by: [Malek Alshukur] Date: 10 September 2017, At: 06:30

 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2017.1354741

Studying the Linear Density of Multi-Thread Fancy Yarn Made

from Natural Fibers Using the Design of Experiments
Malek Alshukura,b and Alex Fotheringhama
a
School of Textiles and Design, Heriot-Watt University, Galashiels, UK; bDepartment of Mechanical Engineering of
Textile Industries and their Technologies, Faculty of Mechanical and Electrical Engineering, Damascus University,
Damascus, Syria

ABSTRACT KEYWORDS
This study aims to define the factors and interaction of factors which affect Fancy yarn; linear density;
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

the average value and variability of the linear density of fancy yarns. A robust, DOE; bamboo fiber; factor
fractional factorial design was used and was repeated five times. It was found interaction
that the core component, the effect component and the supply and delivery 关键词
speeds affected 96.5 % of the linear density value. Further, the binder, the 关键词; l花式纱线;
core, the supply and delivery speeds, and the false twist affected 95% of the 线密度; 能源部; 竹纤维;
linear density variability. The value of this study originates from quantifying 因子的相互作用
the effect of high number of factors and interactions precisely.

摘要
本研究旨在确定影响花式纱线线密度平均值和变异性的因素及其相互作
用。一个稳健的，部分析因设计使用，并重复五次。结果发现，核心部
件、影响元件和供给和输送速度影响了线性密度值的 96.5%。此外，粘结
剂，芯，供应和交货速度，假捻影响 95% 的线性密度变异性。本研究的
价值来源于对大量因素和交互作用的精确量化。

Introduction
The linear density of textile yarns, whether they are ordinary or fancy, is an important yarn property
and it is also an indirect measure of the thickness or the size of the yarn (Goswami, Martindale, and
Scardino 1977). Further, it has a commercial use, in defining the price of the yarn, and also technical
uses, for instance in measuring the specific strength at break (tenacity, N/tex), in defining the gauge,
settings and adjustment of knitting machines or the type, settings and adjustment of weaving
machines, etc.
The linear density of ribbon-like fancy yarns, made on a knitting machine, was estimated and it
was found to be related to the number of plain stitches of the knitted yarn, the stitch length, the
course spacing, the linear density of the input yarn, the wale spacing, and the diameter of the input
yarn (Ričardas Čiukas, Beata Tvarijonavičienė, and Mikučionienė 2006). Using the Mispa FN 64
combined fancy spinning system, bouclé yarns were made and then used to knit single jersey and
(1 × 1) rib fabrics for further testing (Nergis and Candan 2006). The factors studied were the amount
and direction of twist of the binder yarn, the overfeed ratio and the count of input effect yarn. The
authors discussed the influence of the aforesaid factors on the number of bouclé profiles and
maximum height of the profiles. However, although the count of the bouclé yarns was measured,
an analysis and a discussion for the influence of those factors on it was not provided. A similar

CONTACT Malek Alshukur malekshukur@yahoo.com Heriot-Watt University, School of Textiles and Design, Scottish
Borders Campus, Nether Road, Galashiels, TD1 3HF, UK.
Color versions of one or more of the figures in the article can be found online at www.tandfonline.com/WJNF.
© 2017 Taylor & Francis
 2 M. ALSHUKUR AND A. FOTHERINGHAM

approach was followed in another study on bouclé yarns to make (2 × 1) and (2 × 2) rib knitted
fabrics by the same authors (Nergis and Candan 2007). They reported that the weight of the bouclé
yarns increased with the overfeed ratio and the number of input effect yarns. In that study, however,
the number of factors that were thought to affect the linear density of the final bouclé yarns was
limited to two factors. In another study, and the researcher manipulate the tension in the twisting
zone and the overfeed ratio to make two-component and three-component fancy spiral (mouliné)
yarns, fancy wrapped yarns, fancy loop (frotté) yarns and fancy loop (bouclé) yarns. Those yarns
were made on the ring twisting system and then were compared amongst each other in terms of the
linear density, the number of wraps, the breaking force, and the strength (tenacity) (Grabowska
2010). It was found that the highest strength was for the spiral yarns, while the loop yarns had lower
tenacity (N/tex) than a single yarn.
When using hollow-spindle spinning machines to make the fancy yarns, several researches were
conducted to study some properties of fancy yarns, including the linear density. However, the factors
included in the studies where only the supply speed of the effect component, the rotational speed of the
hollow spindle and the delivery speed of the final multi-thread fancy yarn. Those studies were
conducted using the Design of Experiments (DOEs) method. In one of these studies, the fancy yarns
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

were studied in terms of their breaking tenacity, the number of the effect profiles and the percentage
ratio of the effect component. A three-level experimental design was used and regression models were
built to predict those fancy yarn properties (Ragaisiene and Petrulyte 2003). Again three levels were
selected for each of those three factors to design another experiment to measure their impact on the
linear density of the fancy yarn, the number of the profiles over the fancy yarn surface, and their height
and width (Ragaisiene 2009). More recently, the influence of the combination between the delivery
speed and the rotational speed on the number of the effect profiles of fancy yarns made of linen threads
was studied (Petrulyte and Petrulis 2014). Regression models and surface plots were presented to show
the way in which the different levels of those factors affected the number of the fancy profiles.
However, the previous studies were limited to only two or three factors, without including the
effect of other important factors; The false-twist, the tension of the core thread and types of input
material are important factors when making multi-thread fancy yarns on hollow-spindle spinning
machines. Therefore, a research was conducted to explore the effect of the false-twist hook, which is
attached to the outlet hole of the hollow spindle, on the structure and quality of multi-thread fancy
yarns (Alshukur and Fotheringham 2014). It was found that the false twist affected the linear density
of the overfed fancy yarns and made them heavier than the case of not using it. With regard to the
tension of the core thread, Alshukur and Sun found that if the core thread was left to move forward
free of tension on the hollow-spindle machines, the structure and quality of multi-thread bouclé yarn
were improved significantly and visually (Alshukur and Sun 2016). This is because the number of
bouclé and bouclé profiles increased significantly, with increasing the stability of the size of the fancy
profiles and reducing its variability. Further, both the Circularity Ratio of Bouclé Profile and the
Fancy Bulkiness of the Bouclé Profiles increased significantly. Furthermore, it was possible to make a
bouclé yarn using only 50% extra supply of one effect thread comparing with the core thread. In
another study, the quality and structural properties of fancy gimp yarns, which were made on the
hollow-spindle spinning system were studied by taking into account seven factors (Alshukur and
Fotheringham 2015). Due to the high number of factors studied, two levels were selected for each
factor, and that study was based on an orthogonal and fractional experimental design. In these
previous three studies, the structure and the quality of the fancy yarns made were tested according to
the methods of assessing the fancy yarns as suggested previously (Alshukur 2013a, 2013b). However,
the influence of individual factors on the linear density of multi-thread fancy yarns may change if the
effect of other factors exists. Further, such an influence may be relatively strong or weak in
comparison with the effects of other factors. Therefore, the study of this article aims to provide a
more comprehensive understanding to multi-thread fancy yarns and their manufacturing process on
hollow-spindle machines, by studying the effects of the same seven factors which were identified
previously (Alshukur and Fotheringham 2015), on the linear density of the final fancy yarns.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 3

The factors studied, the experimental design, and the experimental procedure
The Fancy yarns were made on a hollow-spindle spinning machine type Gemmill & Dunsmore 3 (UK).
The number of factors for this experiment was k = 7 and they were assigned to symbols as follows: Factor
A for the linear density, type and form of material of the core component of the fancy yarns. Factor B for
the linear density, type and form of material of the binder of the fancy yarns. Factor C for the linear
density, type and form of material of the effect component of the fancy yarns. Factor D for the supply
speed of the effect component (m/min). Factor E for the rotational speed of the hollow spindle (rpm).
Factor F for the delivery speed of the yarns yarn (m/min). Factor G for the false twist hook that is attached
to the outlet hole of the hollow spindle. The experiment was based on a fractional factorial design of
seven factors and two levels each. This fractional factorial design was an orthogonal array and had the
general form which is provided in Table 1. The eight trials (or runs) of this experimental design were
randomized to minimize relation bias. Furthermore, the same experimental design was repeated five
times (i.e., to obtain five replicates) while conducting the experiment in the same random order of the
first experiment and within three successive days. Since it was a fractional factorial design, the general
alias structure for the main effects and two-level interactions in such a design were as follows:
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

A = B*D = C*E = F*G. B = A*D = C*F = E*G. C = A*E = B*F = D*G. D = A*B = E*F = C*G.
E = A*C = B*G = D*F. F = A*G = B*C = D*E. G = A*F = B*E = C*D.
Six specimens were randomly selected from each fancy yarn of each trial (of each replicate) of the
experiment (i.e., 6 specimens × 8 trials × 5 replicates), then measured to calculate the arithmetic
average and the standard deviation of the linear density. The grand average value and the grand
standard deviation for the five replicates were then calculated from the previously calculated
averages. Therefore, there were 6 specimens × 5 replicates = 30 specimens for each trial of the
main experiment. The fancy yarns samples were preconditioned then conditioned in accordance
with the British Standard BS EN ISO 139:2005 and the determination of the linear density was
accomplished according to the British Standard BS EN ISO 2060:1995. The results were analyzed
statistically and presented using two response tables (Lochner and Matar 1990) and a software
package “Minitab 15.” To assess the stability of the manufacturing process, the coefficient of
variation CV% of the process as a whole was used. To calculate the value of the CV% of the process,
the authors depended on the average values of the response tables of the grand averages and that of
the grand standard deviation. The process was considered stable when the value of the CV% did not
exceed 5% for which it was not important to search for the source of variability, as it might be only
random variation. If, however, the value of the CV% exceeded 5%, it was important to identify the
sources of variability of that property and to attempt to reduce the variability or eliminate it.

Selection of levels of the factors

Since useful designing of an experiment requires a careful defining for the factors included in the
experimental design, and still more a cautious selection of the levels of the factors, the levels of the
factors were selected by considering the following criteria:

Table 1. The fractional factorial design.

Factors of the experiment
Randomised order of the trials Standard order of the trial A B C D E F G
5 1 −1 −1 −1 1 1 1 −1
2 2 −1 −1 1 1 −1 −1 1
4 3 −1 1 −1 −1 1 −1 1
1 4 −1 1 1 −1 −1 1 −1
6 5 1 −1 −1 −1 −1 1 1
7 6 1 −1 1 −1 1 −1 −1
3 7 1 1 −1 1 −1 −1 −1
8 8 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
 4 M. ALSHUKUR AND A. FOTHERINGHAM

● Material type, i.e., natural, regenerated, or man-made, etc.;

● The form of such materials whether they are staple-spun, multi-filament (normal or textured),
high-bulk, self-twisted, wrap-spun, core-spun or even a fancy yarn;
● The construction of the core component, whether it is a singles yarn, a ply yarn (folded), a
cable yarn, a composite yarn, or a twist-less multi-filament;
● The number of yarns used for each component. The core component could be one yarn (the
minimum), two yarns (most common), or three yarns (rarely). The effect component could be
one, two, or three yarns. However, the binder is always one thread.
● The capability of the machine and the maximum speed of production as recommended by the
manufacturer. Exceeding the maximum speed may cause high levels of vibration that may
negatively affect the product quality and the machine lifetime.
● The productivity of the machine. This is because running any machine at low levels of speed
reduces the productivity while increases the product cost.
● The overfeed ratio (η%) of the effect component. This is because the supply speed of the effect
threads must be set in accordance with the delivery speed of the final fancy yarn to produce
fancy yarns at a specific overfeed ratio.
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

● The levels selected for the delivery speed were always smaller than those selected for the supply
speed. A good output of this choice was preventing any awkward combination between those
two factors which may happen when a level of the delivery speed is greater than that of the
supply speed, in other words, facing negative overfeed ratios. Such a case is impractical and
implies the act of drafting or stretching the effect component, which is a yarn in this research,
and can break it continuously.
● The rotational speed must be set according to the delivery speed to define the number of wraps
of the binder.
● The minimum speed at which the time period available to the intermediate product is sufficient
to allow the machine to form the desired fancy profiles or projections on the fancy yarns. The
intermediate product forms within the spinning zone that is located between the supply rollers
and the deliver rollers.

For those reasons, a wide range of yarns can be selected for each of the core, the binder and the
effect components. Since this study is concerned with fancy yarns that have multiple-thread
structure, the levels of the components were as follows: level (−1) of the effect component was a
ply, ring-spun, regenerated, bamboo yarn, Ne = 24 s/3 (Ttex = 3 × 24.6 tex), whereas level (+1) was a
ply, ring-spun, cotton yarn, Ne = 30 s/3 (Ttex = 3 × 19.7 tex). Level (−1) of the core component was a
ply, combed cotton yarn, Ne = 30 s/2 (Ttex = 2 × 19.68 tex), while level (+1) was two parallel, open-
end, rotor-spun, singles cotton yarns, Ne = 20s (Ttex = 29.5 tex). For the binder, level (−1) was a
textured polyester multi-filament, 167/34 (dtex/filaments), while level (+1) was a regular nylon
multi-filament, 145/77. Since the polyester multi-filament was textured, it had a greater diameter
than the nylon multi-filament. Levels (−1) and (+1) of the supply speed (factor D) as set at 85 and
95 m/min, respectively. Levels (−1) and (+1) of the rotational speed (factor E) were set at 16000 and
21000 rpm, respectively. Levels (−1) and (+1) selected for the delivery speed (factor F) were 60 and
70 m/min respectively. Factor G has only two levels, that is, level (−1) when this hook was not used,
so no false twist was given to the fancy yarn structure, and level (+1) when this hook was used, so
false twist was given to the fancy yarn structure.

Results and analysis

The results of applying the experimental design are given in Table 2. Each value presented in this
table for the replicates was already an arithmetical average of six measurements. The values of the
grand average and grand standard deviation were calculated from averages of the replicates.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 5

Table 2. The results of the five replicates for the linear density of the fancy yarns.
Replicate Replicate Replicate Replicate Replicate Grand Grand standard
Standard order of trials (vs the 1 2 3 4 5 average X deviation SD
randomized order) (tex) (tex) (tex) (tex) (tex) (tex) (tex)
1 (5) 188.78 189.60 189.86 188.42 188.31 188.99 0.70
2 (2) 181.14 179.43 178.49 180.40 180.44 179.98 1.03
3 (4) 190.38 193.47 192.06 189.12 191.30 191.27 1.65
4 (1) 151.34 149.91 149.67 152.69 150.65 150.85 1.22
5 (6) 153.97 153.74 155.89 155.40 154.94 154.79 0.92
6 (7) 146.36 144.98 146.49 144.34 145.83 145.60 0.92
7 (3) 180.35 177.82 178.20 177.99 179.13 178.70 1.05
8 (8) 137.18 137.15 138.93 137.85 139.08 138.04 0.93

Those grand values were analyzed using response tables (Lochner and Matar 1990) for the average
value and the standard deviation of the linear density. The results of such analysis are given in
Table 3 which shows the estimated effects of the factors on both the average value and the standard
deviation of the linear density of the fancy yarns. Table 3 also gives the values of the process
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

constant, regarding the average value and the standard deviation of the linear density, i.e., 166.03 and
1.05 tex, respectively.
The absolute values of the estimated effects of the factors given in Table 3 were presented in the
Pareto chart shown in Figure 1 because the signs of the values, i.e., positive or negative, are not
relevant for Pareto Analysis. Figure 1 shows that the factors which had the major influence on the
linear density were factors C, A, F, and D because they were responsible for 96.5% of the changes
which occurred to the values of the linear density. Therefore, the weak factors were G, E, and B. The
week factors cannot be involved in any significant interaction (Lochner and Matar 1990), and
therefore they were deleted from the main alias structure mentioned above. Consequently, this
alias structure was reduced into A, C, D, and F.
The overfeed ratio η% is a structural parameter of multi-thread fancy yarns and the higher the
overfeed ratio the higher the linear density of the resulting fancy yarns. In the case of hollow-spindle
machines, the overfeed ratio is related to the combination of the supply speed and the delivery speed.
Therefore, based on the previous factorial design, the alias structure of it is η = D*F = A*C. Since the
overfeed ratio is not related to the linear densities of the input threads of the core and effect
components, the interaction A*C is not real. Instead, using heavier core and effect components
brings about heavier linear density for the fancy yarns.
Minitab 15 was used to obtain a regression model for the linear density the fancy yarns, and the
regression equation was:

Linear density of fancy yarnðtexÞ ¼ 341  4:70A  12:4C þ 1:08D  1:57F (1)

where A and C were the English Counts Necc for the core and the effect input threads respectively,
while D and F were the supply and the delivery speeds respectively, (m/min).

Table 3. Results of the response tables.

The average value of the linear density of the fancy The variability of the linear density of the fancy
yarns (tex) yarns (tex)
Factor Level −1 Level +1 Effect of factor Level −1 Level +1 Effect of factor
Process constant — — 166.03 — — 1.05
A 177.77 154.28 −23.49 1.15 0.96 −0.19
B 167.34 164.71 −2.63 0.89 1.21 0.32
C 178.44 153.62 −24.82 1.08 1.02 −0.06
D 160.63 171.43 10.80 1.18 0.93 −0.25
E 166.08 165.97 −0.10 1.06 1.05 −0.01
F 173.89 158.17 −15.72 1.16 0.94 −0.22
G 166.04 166.02 −0.02 0.97 1.13 0.16
 6 M. ALSHUKUR AND A. FOTHERINGHAM
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

Figure 1. The Pareto chart of the factors affecting the linear density of the fancy yarns.

Table 4. The results of the statistical study of the regression model of the linear density.
P-values of the The accuracy of the p-value of the
Predictor Coefficient t-test regression line ANOVA testing
The constant of the regression model 341.42 0.000 0.001
Factor A: the core component −4.698 0.001 SE = 2.14505
Factor C: the effect component −12.41 0.000 R2 = 99.6%
Factor D: supply speed 1.08 0.006 R2 (adj) = 99.0%
Factor F: delivery speed −1.572 0.002

The statistical study of this regression model was also provided by Minitab 15 as shown in
Table 4. The effect of factors A, C, D, and F on the linear density was all significant because the
p-values of the t-test for these factor were all smaller than the significance level α = 0.05. Further, the
overall significance of the model was secured because the p-value of the ANOVA testing was smaller
than α. Since the p-value of ANOVA testing was 0.001 < α = 0.05, subsequently, this regression
model did explain that a significant portion of the variation in linear density of the gimp yarns was
due to the variations in the four input factors (i.e., factors A, B, C, and F) considered all together.
The values of the Coefficient of Determination R2 and the adjusted R2 were high and close to 100%
which indicate a strong relationship between linear density and the factors included in the model.
Additionally, they confirm the high applicability of the model in determining the variation in linear
density. When comparing the value of the Standard Error of Estimate (SE), 2.14 tex, with the average
value of linear density of the process (i.e., 166.03 tex) as given in Table 3, it is concluded that this
error was extremely low. In summary, the theoretical accuracy of such a regression model was high.
Since the CV of the process was small, i.e. (1.05 tex/166.03 tex)×100 = 0.63%, and indicated a high
level of stability for the manufacturing process, finding the source of the variation was not necessary.

Discussion
The effects of the factors on the linear density of the final fancy yarn
The values of the effects as estimated in Table 3 indicate the individual contribution of each factor to
the linear density, when its value change from level (−1) to level (+1). The signs of the estimated
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 7
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

Figure 2. Main-effect plots of the factors affecting the fancy yarns linear density.

effects show the way in which each factor affected the linear density. Positive values indicated
increases in the linear density whereas the negative values referred to reductions in the linear density.
The main-effect plots shown in Figure 2, as obtained using Minitab 15, simplified such analysis.
Depending on Figure 2 and Table 3, the followings were inferred

● An alteration in the linear density of the input effect component by about 14.7 tex (from
3 × 24.6 tex to 3 × 19.7 tex) caused a higher obsolete alteration in the linear density of the final
fancy yarns by about 24.82 tex (from 178.44 tex to 153.62 tex), i.e., 24.82/14.7 ≈ 1.7 times the
change in the linear density of the input effect component.
● The linear density of the fancy yarns decreased by 23.49 tex (from 177.77 tex to about 154.28
tex) when the linear density of the core component was reduced by 19.64 tex from
29.5 × 2 = 59 tex to about 2 × 16.68 = 39.36 tex, i.e., about 23.49/19.64 ≈ 1.2 times the change
in the linear density of the input core component.
● In terms of percentage ratios, the changes in the linear density of the final fancy yarn ([(153.62–
178.44) × 100/178.44] = −13.9%) was affected by the percentage change in the linear density of
the effect threads ([(59.1–73.8) × 100/73.8] = −19.91%) more than the core threads ([(39.36–
59) × 100/59] = −33%). The reason for this is that the effect threads are much longer than the
core threads because of the overfeed ratio.
● Further, when the supply speed increased by about [(90–80) × 100/80] = 12.5%, the linear
density of the final fancy gimp yarns increased by [(171.43–160.63) × 100/160.63] = 6.7%.
Therefore, raising the supply speed of the effect component yielded heavier fancy yarns. This is
because high supply speeds mean high overfeed ratios for the effect component to make the
same length of the final fancy yarn in comparison with low supply speed. Accordingly, the
fancy yarns may have more and larger fancy projections.
● However, when the delivery speed increased by about [(70–60) × 100/60] = 16.66%, the linear
density of the final fancy yarns dropped by about [(158.17–173.89) × 100/173.89 = −9%. This is
because increasing the delivery speed leads to reductions in the overfeed ratio. Therefore,
shorter lengths of the effect component will be used to make the final fancy yarns. Further, the
fancy yarn structure will have a fewer number of smaller fancy profiles in comparison with the
case of higher overfeed ratios. Subsequently, the linear density of the fancy yarns decreases.
 8 M. ALSHUKUR AND A. FOTHERINGHAM

The effects of factor interactions on the linear density

Interactions between two factors (or more) happen when a level or more of one factor affects the
response value resulting from the other factor. The interaction pattern of this study is shown in
Figure 3 which was obtained using Minitab. This figure shows parallel lines, which indicate that
there were no interactions between the main factors A, C, D, and F regarding the linear density.
However, interactions may happen in the case of other properties of the fancy yarns (Alshukur and
Fotheringham 2015).
Technologically, both the supply speed (factor D) and the delivery speed (factor F) define the
overfeed ratio of the fancy yarns. This means that, they act in unison and may exceptionally be called
interacted. However, this does not mean that they are statistically interacted. Figure 4 shows the
surface plot of the effect of both factors F and D (i.e., the overfeed ratio) on the linear density. The
effect of the overfeed ratio is understood as follows:

● The minimum value of the linear density resulted when the supply speed was at its lowest level,
whereas the delivery speed was at its highest level (i.e., the interaction D−1 and F+1). For this
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

case, the overfeed ratio was η = 100 × (85/70) = 121% while the value of the linear density of
the final fancy yarn was: Ttex = (D−1 and F+1)/2 = (160.63 + 158.17) /2 = 159.4 tex.
● The opposite case happened when these two factors were set at the opposites levels, i.e., D+1
and F−1. The overfeed ratio for this case was η = 100 × (95/60) = 158% whereas the linear
density was Ttex = (D+1 and F−1)/2 = (171.43 + 173.89)/2 = 172.66 tex.
● When those two factors were set at their highest levels (D+1 and F+1), the overfeed ratio was η
% = 100 × (95/70) ≈ 136% and the linear density was Ttex = (D+1 and F+1)/
2 = (171.43 + 158.17)/2 = 164.8 tex.
● When those two factors were set at their lowest levels, D−1 and F−1), the overfeed ratio was η
% = 100 × (85/60) = 141% and the fancy yarns was heavier than the previous case, Ttex = (D−1
and F−1)/2 = (160.63 + 173.89)/2 = 167.26 tex.

The relationship between the overfeed ratio and the linear density of the final fancy yarns was
linear as shown in Figure 5 and given in the following equation.

Figure 3. Interaction plots for the main factors regarding the linear density.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 9
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

Figure 4. Surface plot for the linear density and the overfeed ratio.

Figure 5. Relationship between the overfeed ratio and the linear of multi-thread fancy yarn.

Linear density of fancy yarnðtexÞ ¼ 116:0 þ 0:3603  the overfeed ratio (2)
This relationship was significant at a significance level α = 0.05 because the p-value of the
ANOVA testing was 0.002. Figure 5 also gives the values of R2, adjusted R2 and SE.

The effect of the factors on the variation in the linear density

The binder (factor B) was responsible for the largest share (26.7%) of variability of the linear density.
Table 3 shows that using a polyester binder was better than a nylon binder because the former was
 10 M. ALSHUKUR AND A. FOTHERINGHAM

associated with smaller level of variability. Furthermore, Table 3 indicates that higher variability
resulted from using two single yarns for the core of the fancy yarn (factor A) instead of one, similar
ply yarn.

Conclusions
The main factors and interactions, which affected the linear density of multi-thread fancy yarns,
made on hollow-spindle spinning machines, were identified using the Design of Experiments
(DOEs) method. It was found the changes in the linear densities of the input core threads and the
input effect threads, the supply speed and the delivery speed were together responsible for approxi-
mately 96.5% of the changes in the linear density of the fancy yarns. Further, approximately 13%
change in the linear density of the fancy yarns was obtained by either making 19.9% change to the
linear density of the effect threads or 33% change in the linear density of the core threads. A
significant, strong linear relationship was found between the linear density of the final fancy yarns
and the linear densities of the core threads and the effect threads, the supply speed and the delivery
speed. Further, a significant, strong linear relationship was also found between the linear density of
Downloaded by [Malek Alshukur] at 06:30 10 September 2017

the fancy yarns and the overfeed ratio. The variability of the linear density of the fancy yarns as
resulted from the manufacturing process was low. Furthermore, using one ply thread for the core
helped reducing the variability more than using two loose single yarns. This study was useful to give
a comprehensive understanding to the effect of seven factors on the linear density of fancy yarns.
Similar studies may be conducted on the other fancy yarn properties using the Design of
Experiments.

References
Alshukur, M. 2013a. The quality of fancy yarn: Part I: Methods and concepts. International Journal of Textile and
Fashion Technology 3 (1): 11–24.
Alshukur, M. 2013b. The quality of fancy yarn: Part II: Practical experiments and application. International Journal of
Textile and Fashion Technology 3 (1): 25–38.
Alshukur, M., and A. Fotheringham. 2014. Role of false twist in the manufacturing process of multi-thread fancy yarn
on hollow spindle spinning machines. Journal of the Textile Institute 105 (1): 42–51. doi:10.1080/
00405000.2013.810367.
Alshukur, M., and A. Fotheringham. 2015. Quality and structural properties of gimp fancy yarns using the design of
experiments. Journal of the Textile Institute 106 (5): 490–502. doi:10.1080/00405000.2014.927126.
Alshukur, M., and D. Sun. 2016. Effect of core thread tension on structure and quality of multi-thread bouclé yarn.
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 41 (4): 367–72.
Goswami, B. C., J. G. Martindale, and F. L. Scardino. 1977. Textile yarn: Technology, structure, and applications. New
York, NY: John Wiley & Sons.
Grabowska, K. E. 2010. Comparative analysis of fancy yarns produced on a ring twisting system. Fibres & Textiles in
Eastern Europe 18 (1): 36–40.
Lochner, R. H., and J. E. Matar. 1990. Designing for quality: An introduction to the best of Taguchi and Western
methods of statistical experimental design. London, UK: Chapman and Hall.
Nergis, B. U., and C. Candan. 2006. Performance of Bouclé yarns in various knitted fabric structures. Textile Research
Journal 76 (49): 49–56. doi:10.1177/0040517506059210.
Nergis, B. U., and C. Candan. 2007. Performance of Rib structures from Boucle yarns. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern
Europe 15 (2): 50.
Petrulyte, S., and D. Petrulis. 2014. Influence of twisting on linen fancy yarn structure. Journal of Natural Fibers 11 (1):
74–86. doi:10.1080/15440478.2013.842512.
Ragaisiene, A. 2009. Interrelation between the geometrical and structural indices of fancy yarns and their overfeed and
twist. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 17 (4): 26–30.
Ragaisiene, A., and S. Petrulyte. 2003. Design of fancy yarns with worsted and elastomeric covered components.
Materials Science 9 (4): 414–18.
Ričardas, Č., B. Tvarijonavičienė, and D. Mikučionienė. 2006. Estimating the linear density of fancy ribbon-type yarns
and the structure indices of fabrics knitted from them. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 14 (4(58)): 41–43.