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Car Theft Handbook
Car Theft Handbook
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Why do such evil scum people steal cars you ask? Well, there it’s usually one of four reasons...
TRANSPORTATION - In which case it’s usually dumped after it’s served some short term function
PARTS - Meaning the car is striped and the parts are then sold
CONVERSION - Changing the numbers to match some other car, then selling it to some poor chump
INSURANCE FRAUD - (Ya!) Taking the car with owners permission to not only make money from parting it
out, but the insurance claim as well. Also known as ‘Friendly Thefts’
For the most part, you’ll probably be stealing them for conversion, or maybe transportation, but parting a car
out usually means you have alot of people around town that will pay good money and ask very few
questions. Also you not only need the tools to take the car apart, but a place to do it, and then a place to
dump the frame and whatever else is unused.
WORTH
Ok, the WORTH CR/BK area means the worth for CARS and BIKES. The liquid Freon is one thing I didn’t
touch on, but it’s really simple. All you do is spray it on those little mercury switches, and it will disable them
for around 30 to 60 seconds, more then enough time to diable the alarm (also take into account the +15
secs it takes to reset!).
One note on all the mailorder locksmith companies, almost NONE of them accept Visa or MC, so forget
about carding from them. They also will sell only to locksmiths... “That sucks!” you say? Well, not really,
since they have no way to check if you really are what you say you are. Just rent a PO Box from a place like
Mailboxes, Etc and call it Jimbo’s Lock Service, 1234 Generic Ln Suite #120, Loserville, WY. They won’t
even think twice. Remember that picking locks on cars is COMPLETELY different from picking normal home
locks, so it’s usually wise to pick up books from these places to learn how (believe me, no gfile is going to
teach you shit unless it’s like 100k and filled with nice .GIF pics for you to refer to!).
VEHICLE CONVERSION
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In most cases, what you do is swap the VIN and engine number with those of an identical make/model that
was wrecked. Ok, first off you go to a big Auto wrecking yard, and ask for that specific make and model.
Most good places will have a part-line if they don’t have it, and usually can get it for you within 48 hours.
Since it really doesn’t matter what shape the car is in, try to get the most trashed one you can (since it will
most likely be quite a bit cheaper). Then, when you take possesion of the frame and whatever else remains,
they give you the pink slip to the piece of trash. In your hands you’re holding the pink slip to the car you just
stole. Now go through the car and swap the VIN’s with the numbers off of the other car.
If you’re lucky, the other car will still have the origional VIN on the dash and you can just cut it off and epoxy
(don’t glue it) to the dash. Make sure to use a cooping saw of something like that in order to cur it, soas not
to damage the sides or the tops of the rivets. This is the most important thing, because if you get pulled
over, and for SOME reason (it’s never has happened to me (or at least not with cars)) they check the VIN’s
they will only look at that one, and it will check out. Boom, you just scored a new car.
Now I know that in California (one of the hardest), when you take your car in they do what’s called a Vehicle
Verification, and they have this nice little paper they fill out. Now, registration is not the only time that you
need to get a VV done... Some insurance companies require you to go to the DMV and get one as well. This
is your key to forging whatever you want.
First go inside, and request some blank ones (get like 5), then leave and drive your car over by where
people take tests. Now wait for a DMV loser to come out and check your vehicle. After they go through (take
note of where all the VIN’s were located) get the VV and go home. Now you have a copy the way it
SHOULD be filled out, so just fill out one of the blanks with the info you want and submit it, believe me, no
questions will be asked at the ever-busy DMV.
I personally would register it under a fake name, and then either sell it to someone, or make a phony sale to
your real identitiy, thus covering up any trail that might have pointed to you.
• All of the vehicles involved in the accident are taken to the same shop to be repaired.
• The accident is major, but there are no subjectively diagnosed injuries. o The collision is
minor, but the repair costs are high.
• Although the vehicle could not have been driven away from the scene of the accident,
according to the police record and the vehicle was not at scene of the crime; with no towing
fees.
• Bodyshop employee’s or owner discourage an insurance appraiser from looking at a vehicle
involved in the accident.
Medical fraud may be suspected when:
• All medical injuries are those called subjective diagnosed, including headaches, whiplash,
and muscle spasms.
• The medical bills submitted are photocopies, especially third or fourth generation.
• The collision is minor, but the injuries, especially subjectively diagnosed injuries, are
excessive.
• The medical bills submitted to not itemize office visits and treatments.
• The submitted employment information is from a small business, especially a business with
a post-office box as an address.
• When the business phone number given to the claim is called, it is an answering machine or
service. o The claimant started the job just before the accident.
• The statement of lost earnings was not typed up on the company letterhead.
• The lost earnings statement has items which do not concur with elements of the claim; for
example, the income earned my not be appropriate to the neighborhood listed.
• This list is by no means complete, but it gives you a general idea of what is going to make
an investigator look twice. Be causious, since I know for a fact that some insurance
companies hire people to watch you 24 hours a day for MONTHS! This may seem extreme,
but realize this, one bust deters a hundred people from attempting it (at least).
• If the bike is locked, use a slidehammer, screw it into the ignition, slam it out, put a
screwdriver in the hole and turn to the right. This will unlock and start the bike.
• If the bike is unlocked, force a screwdriver in the keyhole, and turn to the right.
• If the bike is unlocked, and you buy a ignition system for this model, disconnect the real
ignition system, plug in yours and turn the key. The leads should be right behind the
instrument cluster and relatively easy to gain access to...
Now the parts you would be smart to buy beforehand are the following:
• A new instrument cluster (price $150 and up). This will give the bike a new mileage.
• A key ignition set (price $200 and up). This will replace all the locks in the bike with new
ones (which you have the key for). o New farings (price $1400 and up). Sell the origional
farings for the same year different color scheme. Most bike manufacturers make 2 to 3
different color bikes.
• An instruction book on the specific bike (price $20 and up). These damn books aren’t
cheap, but they will give you a good overview of the bikes security, plus the location of the
VIN’s.
The biggest negative factor in stealing bike is this (just as your life was getting easy):
The also check the Motor Number when registering it. This is a real bitch to change, and is usually easier to
just forge the paperwork on. A cop will never check this when you get pulled over (although they will
sometimes do spot checks on the VIN’s). Wait at least two months before you try to sell it (if you aren’t going
to part it out), believe me, all owners will recognize their bikes and will be looking for them. Most people
don’t have insurance that covers theft, so they’re out of luck. Whatever you do, don’t sand down the faring
and spray-paint it... Not only does this FUCK the value, but every cop in the world knows thats what losers
do when they steal bikes.