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Training Manual: By: Lorena Viladomat Philip Jones
Training Manual: By: Lorena Viladomat Philip Jones
By:
Lorena Viladomat
Philip Jones
Aquaponics training manual
By:
Lorena Viladomat and Philip Jones
September 2011
We would like to extend our gratitude to all who have helped us during the
development of this manual. Particular thanks go to all at Al Basma Centre, and the
workshop participants; to Lori Bryan, Yassir Hamdan, Chris, Kyle and Tim and the
Bustan Qaraaqa workforce for their assistance
We would like to thank Operation Blessing Middle East, ELSA Mex S.A de C.V, and
our families for much needed financial support and feedback, without which we
would not have been able to proceed with the project and produce this manual.
Contents
CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION 1
WHAT IS AQUAPONICS? 1
TYPES OF AQUAPONIC SYSTEM 3
1) FLOATING RAFT, OR DEEP WATER CULTURE 3
2) FLOOD AND DRAIN 3
3) NUTRIENT FILM (NFT) 5
AQUAPONIC SYSTEM COMPONENTS 6
WHAT CAN GROW IN AN AQUAPONIC SYSTEM? 8
STOCKING PLANTS 32
PLANTING STRAIGHT INTO THE GROWBEDS 32
USING SEEDLINGS 32
TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS 34
Chapter 1:
Introduction
What is aquaponics?
Aquaponics is a water efficient method for growing both fish and plants in a self-contained
system. Aquaponics is a combination of two food production systems – recirculating
aquaculture and hydroponics. The word aquaponics is made up from the words aquaculture
and hydroponics.
Why
aquaponics?
Nutrient-rich fish
Efficiency: waste effluent
Aquaponics is water
efficient:
As it is a closed, recirculating
Clean, filtered
system, water is only added to water
compensate for evaporative
loss and the water taken up
into the plants. Therefore it is
an ideal method of food
production in arid areas of the
world.
Aquaponics is cost
efficient:
The growbed is filled with water from the fish tank, and then drained. During the flood,
water and nutrients are brought into the plant root zone. During the drain, air is drawn into
the plant root zone, and the water returns to the fish tank.
The flood/drain cycle can either be controlled by running the pump on a timer, or by building
an automatic draining device, called an autosiphon into the growbed.
The fish tank should ideally be wider than it is deep. The larger the fish tank (and thus the
total volume of water), the more stable the system will be in terms of temperature, water
quality and biology.
Sump tank: Not all aquaponic systems use a sump tank. However, they can be used to
ensure a constant water depth in the fish tank, and also increase the total water volume in
the system, thus increasing stability. In a flood and drain system, the sump tank must be
large enough to hold all the water in the growbeds should they empty simultaneously, plus a
little more to ensure the pump stays submerged when all the growbeds are full.
A diagram of a flood and drain aquaponic setup with a sump tank, also called a CHOP system (Constant Height One
Pump), constructed from liquid shipping containers called IBCs. Note the siphon standpipes in each growbed. The height
of these determines the maximum water depth in the flooded growbed.
Growbeds: Like the fish tank, the growbeds may be constructed from a wide range of
materials, but again they must be food grade. For flood and drain systems, the total volume
of the growbeds should ideally be double the fish tank volume.
Filter: In a flood and drain system, the growbeds act as the biological and mechanical filter,
as well as providing a support for the plants. In order to perform adequate biological
filtration, flood and drain growbeds should be deep enough to hold 30cm of growing
medium. In NFT and raft systems filtration is normally a two-step process: solids removal
(mechanical filtration) and nutrient conversion (biological filtration) happen in separate filter
units.
7
Pump: The pump is used to move water from the lowest point in the system (e.g. the sump
tank) to the highest point (e.g. the fish tank). The pump should be able to move the entire
water volume every hour. Because the pump has to move water vertically, which reduces the
rate at which it can pump, it is necessary to know both the maximum height difference
(head), and the total system water volume to be able to choose the correct size of pump.
Aerator: An aerator is not always necessary – in some systems the movement of water to
and from the growbeds can provide sufficient oxygenation of the water. It is impossible to
provide too much oxygen, yet too little will cause serious problems. An aerator is an easy
way to ensure adequate oxygenation at all times.
Autosiphon: In flood and drain systems an autosiphon is a relatively easy way to ensure the
growbeds fill and drain correctly. An autosiphon allows the growbed to fill with water up to a
predetermined depth, at which point the water drains out rapidly, to empty the growbed. An
alternative to using an autosiphon is to use a timer switch to run the pump for just long
enough to fill the growbeds, and then switch off the pump while the growbeds drain. The
disadvantage of timer switches is that most pumps are designed for continuous operation.
Repeatedly stopping and starting will shorten their lifespan.
1: Growbed full. Water 2: Airtight bell tube creates 3: … Air is drawn in through
overflows siphon standpipe siphon, which drains all the holes in bell tube, thus
and starts to drain water from the growbed breaking the siphon. The
until… growbed now fills up again
Plumbing: Various pipes, taps and joints are needed to connect the various components.
Wider bore pipes offer lower resistance to the flowing water, and are less likely to get
clogged with fish wastes than narrower pipework.
Growing medium: This is an incredibly important component in the flood and drain
aquaponic system. The substrate medium can be gravel, volcanic rock, broken pottery, or
specialised expanded clay balls. In all cases, the particles must be large enough to allow
efficient drainage (approximately 2cm diameter gravel pieces, for example). Another
consideration is that the substrate should not affect the water pH (see later in this manual),
and so materials such as marble or limestone should be avoided.
8
• Water temperature throughout the year (e.g. trout need cold water; tilapia warm
water, and carp can tolerate a very wide range)
• Tolerance of fish species to fluctuating water quality (tilapia and carp are the most
tolerant)
• Diet preference of fish (e.g. carnivores such as trout and bass, or herbivores such as
carp and tilapia)
• Speed of growth and ease of reproduction (e.g. tilapia are very fast growers and
breed readily)
• Palatability/marketability
Throughout the world, tilapia is probably the most widely cultivated species in aquaponic
systems. This is a result of their extreme hardiness and tolerance of fluctuating water quality,
the ease with which they reproduce, their ability to eat a wide range of foodstuffs, and their
very acceptable meat. In some parts of the world (e.g. Australia, parts of the U.S.A.) it is
illegal to cultivate tilapia, as the very same reasons that make them great for aquaculture
also make them a very serious threat to local environments should they escape into natural
bodies of water.
Plants: Fish waste is predominately made up of ammonia, and so very nitrogen rich;
therefore, nitrogen-loving plants do especially well. All green leafy vegetables and herbs are
ideal for aquaponic production, e.g. lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, spinach, rocket, basil, dill,
coriander, parsley, celery, chard, and kale.
Fruiting plants require slightly different nutrients to leafy crops, but once an aquaponic
system is well established then they also can thrive. Examples of plants that do very well are:
tomatoes, chilli and sweet peppers, cucumbers, melons and watermelons.
9
Chapter 2:
Water quality
monitoring
and cycling
An aquaponic system can be looked at as a living organism, the water acting as its blood. The
pump is the heart of an aquaponic system; the growbeds become the lungs. The continually
flowing water carries away the wastes of the fish and in doing so delivers vital nutrients to
the plants; as the growbeds flood and drain, they “breathe” oxygen into the water, which is
then available to be used by the fish.
For this reason it is important that we understand our water, and learn a little about aquatic
chemistry and biology.
Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are all nitrogen-containing chemicals, which occur naturally in
aquaponic systems. These three chemicals, and the processes that create them and break
them down, make up the “nitrogen cycle”.
Fish food
Plants get eaten
Fish eat
Fish excrete
Plants use nitrate
ammonia (NH3)
for growth
Ammonia (NH3/NH4+)
• Ammonia is excreted by fish, and is by-product of breakdown of excess food
• Ammonia comes in two forms: NH3 (ammonia) is extremely toxic to fish and other
organisms. Ammonium (NH4+), the ionized form of ammonia is much less toxic.
• In a healthy aquaponic system, the ammonia level should be 0ppm (parts per million)
• If ammonia levels rise above 0.02ppm it starts to have harmful effects. Some fish species
can tolerate ammonia levels as high as 0.5ppm for short periods (a few hours).
• Ammonia is the most common cause of mass mortalities when stocking new tanks to
capacity too quickly.
Nitrite (NO2-)
• Produced by Nitrosomas sp. bacteria from ammonia
• Toxic to fish
• In a healthy aquaponic system, nitrite levels should be 0ppm
• Too much (above 0.5 mg/l) can cause “brown blood” disease and fish death
11
Nitrate (NO32-)
• Produced by Nitrobacter sp. bacteria from nitrite
• Fish can tolerate fairly high concentrations of nitrate
• In a healthy aquaponic system, nitrate levels should be around 50ppm
• Nitrate is taken up by plants as they grow
• Too much nitrate means not enough plants!
Living organisms need oxygen (O2) to live. Oxygen is produced by plants via a process called
photosynthesis, and consumed by both plants and animals in a process called respiration.
Oxygen also dissolves in water and this is how it can be available to aquatic life. There are
two sources of dissolved oxygen (DO) in aquatic environments:
Oxygen transfers from air to water by diffusion through the surface. The rate at which
oxygen transfer occurs is dependent on the surface area of the air/water interface. Waves,
ripples or splashing water all serve to increase the surface area, thus increasing the potential
rate of oxygen transfer.
Artificial methods of water oxygenation also focus on increasing the area of the air/water
interface; For example, air pumps that blow bubbles into the water column – each small
bubble creates a comparatively large surface across which oxygen can diffuse.
The amount of oxygen that can dissolve in water depends on the water temperature. Cold
water can have a much higher dissolved oxygen (DO) level than warm water, for example the
maximum DO of water at 0°C is 14.6 mg/l, whereas at 30°C water becomes saturated with
only 7.5mg/l DO.
As aquatic organisms respire, they use up oxygen, reducing DO levels. Therefore, in order for
organisms to remain alive the DO must be continually replenished. In an aquaponic system
we do not particularly want to encourage submerged aquatic plants – it is better that the
nutrients are used instead by the crops we plant – but we still need to ensure adequate
dissolved oxygen (DO) for the fish.
12
Alkalinity/hardness
Hardness and alkalinity are important water quality parameters in aquaponics. Basically, they
provide a measure of the pH buffering power of the water. Buffering refers to a solution’s
ability to resist pH change. Water with higher alkalinity is more able to resist changes in pH,
which, assuming the pH is correct, keeps the fish and plants happy.
There are two types of hardness: general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH – also
known as alkalinity). Hardness is expressed in “parts per million calcium carbonate” (ppm
CaCO3), which means that the hardness is equivalent to having that much calcium carbonate
dissolved in the water, though in actual fact the hardness may be caused by other dissolved
ions.
0-75 ppm: soft; 75-150ppm: medium hard; 150-300ppm: hard >300ppm: very hard
General Hardness (GH) is the measure of calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) ions in
the water. Incorrect GH can affect the uptake of nutrients and ability of wastes to pass across
cell membranes.
Carbonate hardness (KH) measures bicarbonate (HCO3-) and carbonate (CO32-) ions.
These ions can both combine with the hydrogen ions (H+) present in acids as follows:
Thus, the amount of carbonate and bicarbonate in the water tells us how much H+ from acid
can be bound up by the water. The total acid binding capacity is called alkalinity. Therefore,
water with a high alkalinity is able to bind up a lot of acid.
In an aquaponic system, the acids resulting from respiration and bacterial processes could
cause the pH to drop rapidly. However, if the water has a sufficiently high alkalinity, then this
acid is simply mopped up by carbonate ions, and the pH does not change.
Again, the water source and choice of growing media can affect the alkalinity. Groundwater
typically has quite high alkalinity; rainwater has low alkalinity. Inert growing media such as
clay beads and volcanic rock have no effect on alkalinity. Limestone or marble chips on the
other hand will act as pH buffers by slowly dissolving to bind with any acids present.
Over time, the buffering capacity of the water is used up, and needs to be increased. Adding
crushed eggshells, snail shells or limestone to the system can achieve this.
14
Temperature
In general, biological processes happen faster at higher temperatures. This stands true in
aquaponic systems. As fish are cold-blooded animals, their metabolic and activity rates
depend on the temperature of the water. In warmer water, fish are more active, eat more
and grow more quickly than in cold water. However, each species of fish has its ideal
temperature range, and if the water is either too hot or too cold then the fish will begin to
experience stress and their growth will slow down significantly. Therefore, the ideal water
temperature for an aquaponic system really depends on the species of fish being grown; for
example tilapia prefer high temperatures, 24-28 °C for optimal growth, whereas trout prefer
15-18°C, and will die if the water temperature rises much above 20°C.
The temperature also affects the bacterial processes in the growbeds. Ammonia removal is
optimized in the temperature range 21-27°C.
A fact to consider is that higher temperatures increase fish and bacterial metabolism –
feeding and growth rates. This in turn increases their consumption of oxygen. However,
warmer water has a lower maximum DO (oxygen content) than cooler water, highlighting the
benefits of additional aeration.
pH 7 6.5 – 7.5
Water quality
Water quality monitoring and cycling
So now that you know what acceptable water quality
The key parameters to watch during
parameters are, how do you measure them?
cycling are ammonia and nitrite. The
following pictures were taken on
Aquarium test kits: These have been specially designed to consecutive days during system
test water quality in fish tanks, and so are ideal for setup, fishless cycling using goat
aquaponic systems. Test kits are relatively inexpensive, can manure and fish food as ammonia
test a range of parameters (Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, DO, source.
pH, GH and KH) and are simple to use – exact instructions
depend on the brand.
Water testing should be carried out every day for the first
two months. Once the system seems to have stabilised, Ammonia (left) almost 0 ppm. Nitrites
then it should only be necessary to test once a week, or (middle) still high.
any time the system is altered or disturbed (such as
stocking or harvesting heavily, overfeeding, water
changing…)
Once an aquaponic system has been constructed, the Ammonia (left) 0 ppm. Nitrites
growbeds filled with growing medium, and the system (middle) 0 ppm. Nitrates (right) 40ppm.
filled with chlorine free water, cycling can commence.
16
The basic process of cycling is that ammonia is added to the system, and then ammonia,
nitrite and nitrate levels are monitored on a daily basis until ammonia and nitrite levels have
both peaked and returned to 0, and nitrate levels start to climb. This shows that both
Nitrosomas and Nitrobacter populations have established themselves, and the ammonia has
been converted first to nitrite then to nitrate. There are two methods for cycling an
aquaponic system:
The most obvious ammonia source is live fish, which excrete ammonia. To cycle with fish add
a small number of hardy, non-valuable fish (goldfish are a good choice!) at a rate of roughly
1g fish per 2 litres of fish tank volume. Feed the fish sparingly, and they will start to produce
ammonia. Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate every day. If ammonia levels exceed 1ppm, stop
feeding until it has dropped again to avoid killing the fish. Ammonia levels will spike and then
drop. A few days later, nitrite levels should spike and drop, and some time after that nitrate
levels will start to rise.
The whole process can take 4-8 weeks depending on water temperature. There is no need to
add bacteria to the system – they are naturally present in water and the atmosphere, and
will happily establish themselves in the growbeds on their own. However, it is possible to
kick-start the bacterial populations by adding a bucket of water from an established system.
Fishless cycling
It is possible to speed up the cycling process to as little as 10-14 days by using a different
source of ammonia and not having fish in the system at all. Ammonia levels can be
maintained at what would be lethal to fish if they were present – up to 5ppm. This means
that there is much more food available for the bacteria from the outset, enabling faster
growth. Alternative sources of ammonia include:
The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels need to be monitored daily, and again the bacterial
populations can be given a boost by adding a bucket of water from an established system.
Once cycling is complete, ammonia and nitrite levels are 0 and nitrate levels are climbing, the
system pH can be adjusted as necessary and then the plants and fish stocked.
17
Chapter 3:
About fish
A fish is an aquatic vertebrate animal that is covered with scales, and equipped with two sets
of paired fins and several unpaired fins. Most fish are "cold-blooded", or ectothermic,
allowing their body temperatures to vary as ambient temperatures change.
Lateral
Eye line
Nostril
Mouth
Gill cover Caudal fin
Pectoral
fin
Pelvic Anal fin
fin
18
6. Broodstock: Selected adult fish of good size and in good condition can be used as
broodstock, to produce new eggs.
19
Temperature: Different fish prefer different temperatures. For example, Tilapia species
prefer warm water, trout need cold water, but carp can tolerate a wide range of
temperatures.
Growth rate: Faster growing fish will reach harvest size sooner, potentially increasing
profitability. A fast growing warm water species such as tilapia has the advantage of reaching
harvest size during the warmer months of the year; cold-tolerant carp may take over a year
to reach harvest size, but can be left in to overwinter.
Diet: Fish can be herbivorous (eat only plants) omnivorous (eat plant and animal based food)
or carnivorous (eat only animal based foods). Omnivorous fish are the easiest to feed, as
they will accept a range of foodstuffs. Herbivores and omnivores can both be easily fed on
home grown food. Carnivores, however, need a steady supply of animal based food, which
can be expensive or difficult to procure.
Water quality requirements: “Easy” species like tilapia are much more forgiving of
inadequate water quality than trout, for example.
Palatability (or marketability if it is a commercial project): Catfish grow fairly quickly, and
tolerate low water quality, but many people just don’t like to eat them!
Ease of reproduction: If you want to be self-sufficient and breed your own next generation,
then you need to choose a species that will breed well in captivity. For example, although sea
bass grow well in fresh water, they only breed in salt water.
Legality: Some fish species can become aggressively invasive if they escape into the wild in
their non-native habitat, and are consequently illegal in some parts of the world. A good
example is tilapia, which is forbidden in Australia and parts of the U.S.A.
20
Species information
Common carp (Cyprinus carpio)
Common carp probably originated in Eastern Europe, in the watersheds of the Black, Caspian
and Aral seas. However, they have been introduced around the world for aquaculture
purposes, starting with the Romans over 2000 years ago. Common carp are now almost
globally distributed.
Temperature: Carp can tolerate water temperature ranging from 0 to 37°C, though 18-24°C
is ideal for fast growth
Growth rate: Depends on temperature. From egg to table size (600g – 1kg) can take 12
months in a warm climate, or over 2 years in a temperate area. Carp can live for up to 50
years, and grow to 50kg
Diet: Carp are bottom-feeding omnivores – they eat bottom dwelling organisms and rotting
vegetation
Water quality: Carp are fairly resilient fish. Ideal parameters are presented below:
Palatability: Carp are one of the most important fish species in aquaculture, and popular in
Eastern European and Middle Eastern cuisine, where they have been farmed for centuries.
Availability: Common carp are so globally distributed that it is usually easy to find a supplier
of fingerlings.
Ease of reproduction: Common carp breed readily in captivity
Legality: Common carp are classed as a dangerous invasive species in parts of the U.S.A and
Australia.
21
Temperature: Tilapia will die in cold water. Although the different species have slightly
different tolerances, anything below 11°C can be considered lethal. 25 - 30°C is ideal for fast
growth.
Growth rate: From egg to table size (600g – 1kg) can take 6 – 12 months. Tilapias rarely
exceed 2kg maximum weight.
Diet: Tilapias are mid-water omnivores that naturally consume zoo and phytoplankton.
Water quality: Tilapias are fairly resilient fish, and are able to grow in both fresh and
saltwater. Ideal parameters are presented below:
Palatability: Tilapia has firm white flesh that is popular with consumers worldwide.
Availability: Thanks to their popularity in aquaculture, tilapia fingerlings are usually easy to
locate in areas where the climate is suitable, and they are not outlawed.
Ease of reproduction: Tilapia will breed prolifically. For this reason it is normal to grow only
males. They are mouth-brooders – the mother incubates the eggs in her mouth, and for
several days after absorbing the yolk sac the advanced fry will take refuge in her mouth.
Legality: Tilapia can become dangerous invasive species and so are illegal in some parts of
the U.S.A., Australia and South Africa.
22
Palatability: Bass have pure white meat; firm but tender with a light, delicate taste.
Availability: Bass are not available everywhere, but hybrids are produced in the USA and
Israel, among others.
Ease of reproduction: Hybrid bass are made by crossing two species of bass. The hybrids
themselves may be able to reproduce, but the offspring will not be like the parents, and will
not necessarily be a strong or good strain.
Legality: Hybrid bass are legal in many areas.
23
Palatability: Catfish meat is gaining in popularity around the world; their delicious flavour has
made them one of the most widely cultivated fish in the USA.
Availability: Catfish have been introduced to many countries for aquaculture purposes, and
so are becoming increasingly readily available.
Ease of reproduction: Channel catfish can breed in captivity, though this usually requires
individuals between 3-6 years old.
Legality: Catfish are legal in many areas.
24
Chapter 4:
Fish
management
The total weight of fish that can be kept in an aquaponic system is called the carrying
capacity. Aquaponic systems work best when maintained close to their carrying capacity.
However, the more heavily stocked they are, the more care and attention has to be given to
their management and maintenance. Also, at high stocking levels additional aeration is
essential.
• The growbeds are able to process only a certain amount of fish waste each day.
• Based on the assumption that food in = waste out, the fish can only be fed as much as the
growbeds can process.
• For good growth rates, adult fish should be fed 1-2% of their body weight per day.
• The maximum weight of fish is therefore 50 – 100 times the daily feed weight, depending
on the desired feed rate.
• Different plants and different growbeds require different nutrient levels; for example:
o NFT/floating raft growbeds with solids removal and additional filtration can
process 60g/m2/day fish food if only leafy greens are grown or 100g/m2/day if
only fruiting plants are grown; mixed growbeds need around 80g/m2/day.
25
Locate a reputable source of baby fish (fingerlings), and arrange to buy as many as you need.
Fish need to be transported in oxygenated water. The most common method for oxygenating
water for fish transport is to half filling a strong, plastic fish transporting bag with water,
putting in the fish and filling the rest of the bag with pure oxygen. To seal the bag, twist the
top closed and secure it with rubber bands. The bag should then be placed in a box so it stays
dark – this helps reduce the stress on the fish. Fish should be transported as quickly as
possible, and not allowed to overheat.
Once you have your fish, you need to check them for obvious signs of disease and parasites.
A quick visual inspection will suffice. Look out for open sores, red streaks in the fins and any
suspicious spots or worms on the body.
A good method to reduce the risk of introducing parasites to the aquaponic system is to give
the fish a salt bath before putting them in. The process for this is fairly simple:
• First, float the bag of fish in in the aquaponic fish tank until the water temperatures have
equalized. You can check this by feeling with your finger. Be careful not to let any water
from inside the bag enter the aquaponic system.
• Once the temperatures have equalised, fill a large container with water from the
aquaponic system (40L should be enough for 100 fingerlings).
• Place an aerator in the container to keep oxygen levels high during the salt bath.
• Add salt at a rate of 20g per litre of water. Sea salt is best; if you use other salt it must be
non-iodized.
• Using a net, transfer the fingerlings from their bag to the salt bath.
• Leave the fish in the salted water for 20 to 30 minutes. Watch them carefully – if any
show signs of distress (gasping, floating oddly, not moving) then they should be removed
from the salty water.
• Carefully remove the fish with the net, and add them to the aquaponic system.
• Discard the salty water – do not put it back in the aquaponic system!
27
Remember, the sump tank and fish tank are connected – they are not separate tanks! If the
sump tank has been used for reproduction, and has new baby fish in it, these may be moved
directly to the fish tank with no need for quarantine.
Growth measurement
It is useful to be able to monitor the growth of the fish so that you know when they are ready
for harvest, and so you can ensure you are feeding the right amount.
Chapter 5:
Plants and
seedling
management
Before going into detail about planting an aquaponic system, let’s learn some basic facts
about plants.
Flower
Leaflet, making up
compound leaf
Seeds
Fruit
Cotyledons
Primary root
Lateral root
29
Some plants complete their life cycle – germinate, grow, produce seed and die – within one
year. These are known as annuals, and have to be re-planted every year. Maize, lettuce,
melons, peas and beans are examples of annual crops.
Other plants do not die after one year. They may die back to the ground, but remain alive in
the soil, or just slow down their growth in the winter. In the spring, these plants, known as
perennials, bounce back to life. Perennial plants include aubergine, artichokes and potatoes,
chives, lavender, thyme, oregano, rosemary, mint and sage. Tomatoes and peppers are also
perennials, but are usually grown as annuals and cut down and re-planted every year.
Growbed layout
Before starting all your planting choose wisely which
plants you want to grow. It is a good idea to carefully
design the layout of the growbeds on a piece of paper.
It may take you a couple of days, but it will be worth it.
Some plants produce fruit or leaves that can be harvested continually, or at least for a long
time (e.g. some lettuce varieties, coriander, parsley and basil, tomatoes). With other crops
the whole plant is removed at harvest time (e.g. most lettuces and beetroot).
Therefore, when designing the growbed layout, mix continually harvesting plants and one-off
yield crops. Also, don’t plant everything at once! Staggering planting at weekly intervals
means that the harvests can also be a week apart with crops like lettuces.
30
You can also plant rows of early bloomers like salads between long term crops like peppers.
That way you can harvest the salads before the peppers get big, thus maximising growbed
space.
Some plants take up a lot of space in the growbed – lettuces, for example. Others, like
climbing tomatoes or cucumbers can be trained up and away from the growbed, leaving
more planting space available. Poles or strings are usually employed for climbing plants, but
it is also possible to exploit vertical aspects of plants themselves! Maize grows tall and
straight, and beans like to climb – the beans can be trained to climb up the maize rather than
needing extra poles.
Encourage diversity
Another good reason to encourage diversity is that all plants are susceptible to some kinds of
disease and parasites. Imagine you grow only cucumbers, and they succumb to a fungal
infection. The plants die, and there is nothing to take up the nutrients in the fish waste, so
the fish can also suffer from poor water quality. In a diversely planted growbed, however,
even if all of one species die off from a disease, other plant species will not suffer at all so
there will still be demand for the fish waste.
Companion planting
All plants produce natural chemicals that they release from leaves, flowers and roots. These
chemicals may attract or repel certain insects, or can enhance or retard the growth rate and
yield of neighbouring plants. It is therefore worth being aware of this when designing a
growbed layout – some plants when planted close to each other will benefit each other;
other combinations are best avoided. This is known as companion planting; some of the
known benefits are listed below:
31
Trap cropping or sacrificial crop - Sometimes a neighbouring crop may be selected because it
is more attractive to pests and serves to distract them from the main crop.
Symbiotic nitrogen fixation – Legumes have the ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen for their
own use and for the benefit of neighbouring plants via a symbiotic relationship with the
rhizobium bacteria.
Biochemical pest suppression – some plants exude chemicals from roots or aerial parts that
suppress or repel pests and protect neighbouring plants
Nurse cropping – tall or dense-canopied plants may protect more vulnerable species through
shading or by providing a windbreak.
Beneficial habitats – Companion plants can provide a desirable environment for beneficial
insects and other arthropods, especially ladybirds, lacewings, and hover flies.
When trying to use companion planting, do not worry much about good companions; focus
more on not planting bad companions. Companion planting has been practised for years and
has evolved from historical observation and horticultural science. Do your own observations
and see what works with you. In appendix 1 you will see a companion planting table.
• Make a list of all the plants that you would like to put into your growbeds. Remember
that there are some things that do better than others in aquaponic setups.
• Assess the space requirements of each plant and respect it.
• Use as much vertical space as you can. You can provide support for climbing plants, or
plant climbers next to tall plants like maize. Try to put climbers at the back or in the
corners so that they can be trained away from the growbed.
• Try and accommodate the plants using continual harvest methods.
• Remember that harvest access is very important so try and plant the high crops at the
back and the one-off crops like lettuce at the front, that way you don’t forget to eat
them, and they are accessible for repeated harvesting and re-planting.
• Try to use companion planting to avoid bad plant combinations.
• See appendix 2 for a summary of plant requirements for popular aquaponic crops.
• Be creative!
32
Stocking plants
When stocking the growbed with plants you can do this in different ways. You can plant the
seeds straight into the growbeds, or transplant seedlings that have been germinated
elsewhere; either purchased from a garden centre or grown at home.
To plant straight into a flood and drain growbed you have to make sure that the seed is large
enough that the water movement won’t wash it away. In general, seeds of plants in the
melon or squash family (like butternut squash, watermelon and cucumber) and beans do
fine. It is possible to sow small seeds directly into the growbeds by removing some gravel to
reach the humid layer, laying down a thin layer of cotton wool, sprinkling the seeds on top
and closing with another thin layer of wool and the gravel.
Chive seeds being planted directly into the growbeds using a layer of cotton wool
Smaller seeds are better germinated in a seedling tray and grown on until they are large
enough to be transplanted. Seedlings that have been grown in a seedling tray for easy
transplanting are known as plugs, and are readily available in garden centres.
Using seedlings
1. Fill each hole with moist compost. Press the compost down lightly to firm it up a bit,
make sure that there are no large pebbles blocking the drain hole.
2. Put one seed per hole; if the seed is large enough, place it on its ‘B’ axis (lying down) and
gently cover the seeds with more compost. The seed should be covered with twice its
depth of compost.
3. Place the seedling tray on the plastic tray.
4. Gently water all the newly planted seeds.
5. Place the tray in a nice airy, shady place and ensure that the compost is always moist by
watering gently once or twice a day. Covering the seed tray with plastic or glass to keep
moisture in.
6. Label all the rows of seeds so you don’t get confused when they germinate. Cut long,
thin pieces of plastic (from milk bottles, yoghurt pots) or use plastic knives and wood
sticks to label every row of seeds. Make sure you write with a pencil or permanent
marker! You could also draw a map on a piece of paper.
34
Things to remember
Read the seed package for additional information.
Do not feel bad if not all your seeds germinate, this happens!
Swap seeds with friends.
Transplanting seedlings
Now transplant the plugs according to the layout that you designed. Make a hole in the
gravel deep enough to completely cover the roots, place the seedling in the hole, and
carefully put the gravel back around it - just like planting in soil! It will take a week or so for
the roots to establish and the plant to acclimatize to its new home before it really starts to
grow.
Remember to look after your plants and to give them lots of love!
35
Chapter 6:
Fish food
The only major input to an aquaponic system is the fish food. The quality and nutritional
makeup of the fish food is very important therefore, as it not only feeds the fish, but also
provides the nutrients for the plants and ultimately ends up feeding you. There are two
options regarding fish food – purchasing manufactured feeds, or making your own.
Manufactured feed
Commercially manufactured fish food is a high protein (30-50%) foodstuff that has been
developed to provide fish with the nutrients they require to be healthy and grow quickly.
Manufactured feed usually comes in pellet form, and the pellets are available in different
sizes for different sizes of fish. Small pellets designed for very young fish might even have a
slightly different nutritional composition to pellets designed for adult fish, reflecting the
different nutritional needs of fish at different stages of their life. However, it is also possible
to crush or crumble large pellets so that they become bite-sized to tiny mouths.
• The manufacture and transport of pellet feed is heavily reliant on fossil fuels, again
demonstrating the unsustainability of this source of fish food.
• Pellet feed decays very quickly if left uneaten in the fish tank, and produces a lot of
ammonia. Therefore it is important to know the correct quantity to feed the fish, and
remove uneaten feed after about 3 minutes.
• It costs money and can be difficult to find in the quantities required.
Home-made feed
The healthy, organic, economic and sustainable option is to give the fish home-made, or
rather home-grown, food.
Duckweed (Lemna sp.) and Azolla sp. are tiny floating plants that make excellent food for
omnivorous or herbivorous fish; they contain a good range of nutrients, including a high
protein content of around 25-45%.
Both duckweed and azolla fern are very easy to grow, and in the right conditions they can
grow very quickly – doubling the population in 24 hours. Duckweed grows best in still water
over 20°C, so even if the fish are not eating much, harvest as regularly as you can to store it
for the colder months. Duckweed can be dried or frozen to preserve it.
To feed duckweed to fish, simply throw a handful into the fish tank. If you over-feed, the
duckweed simply remains on the surface and will get eaten later. As it is still alive, there is no
danger of it rotting and giving off ammonia.
All that is needed to grow this excellent fish food is a container of standing water with a large
surface area, such as an old bathtub, which is placed in a moderately sunny spot. Throw in
some fertiliser such as a handful of animal manure, and then throw in a handful of
duckweed. Once the surface is covered with duckweed, remove half to three quarters to
either feed directly to the fish, or to freeze for later.
Black soldier fly larvae (BSF) are a great source of high-protein fish food that can be easily
grown at home. Unlike duckweed, these make suitable food for carnivorous fish as well as
omnivores.
BSF larvae grow in kitchen scraps, leftover food, garden waste - they eat anything organic -
and the best thing is they harvest themselves! Black soldier flies are only active in warmer
weather – from about April onwards – but once they have started to hatch the larvae can
consume a phenomenal amount of food waste every day, turning it into excellent fish food
and good quality compost for the garden.
Worms
Worms, like black soldier fly larvae, can also grow on food scraps, converting waste into
compost and fish food (worms). Worms make great food for larger carnivorous or
omnivorous fish. To feed them to small fish, the worms may have to be chopped up.
While BSF larvae will eat fresh household waste, worms prefer things that have already been
partially digested – animal manures or slightly older compost. Worms also need a fairly cool,
dark and moist environment in which to live.
A simple worm farm can be constructed from a plastic bucket with drainage holes in the
bottom. The bottom is then lined with wet cardboard, and suitable worm food added on top
(compost from a BSF harvester, horse manure or partially rotten kitchen scraps) to a depth of
about 30cm. The pile is topped with more wet cardboard or newspaper, and the bucket
covered with a lightproof, but not airtight, lid. To maintain the worm farm add food
periodically, and check that it is moist every day. Pour in some water if necessary. Worm
farms should be constructed in shaded spots, maybe even slightly dug into the ground to
keep the temperature more stable.
The worms can be harvested by sifting through the pile, or by gently watering the top – they
should rise to the surface. Every so often, the compost should be removed and given to
garden plants to make space for new food.
Fish can be also be fed on grains and domestic scraps – rice, barley, oats, leftover salad
leaves and bread, for example. However, this is not ideal for two reasons:
• Feeding the fish with something you could eat yourself is quite wasteful.
• It is hard to accurately gauge the amount of food when feeding irregularly produced
domestic scraps – better to convert the scraps to BSF larvae or worms!
• Provides the complete nutritional requirements for both fish and plants
• Provides the fish with a diet closely resembling what they would eat in nature
• You know exactly what the fish are eating
• Completely sustainable – no need for fishmeal or fossil fuels
• Uneaten natural foods do not immediately start to decay and produce ammonia –
they can be left in the fish tank, and the fish simply given less food given next time.
• Reduces domestic waste production
39
Chapter 7:
Fish health
Like all animals, fish can get sick. Due to the fairly high stocking densities used in aquaponic
systems, illness can spread rapidly between fish, potentially risking the whole harvest. The
good news is that in the majority of cases diseases and health problems can be avoided
simply by maintaining the fish in a healthy and stress-free environment.
Maintaining good water quality is very important for fish wellbeing. Good water quality
means well oxygenated, filtered water - the parameters must be well within the safe range
for the fish species being cultured. Prevention is always better (and easier) than cure. A
cycled aquaponic system with well-stocked growbeds and adequate aeration should not
encounter many water quality problems. However, care should be taken when re-stocking
fish or harvesting plants. Also, it is important to be aware of seasonal temperature changes
and check water quality regularly. Overleaf is a summary table of key water quality
parameters, the safe range of each parameter and actions to be taken to prevent or treat
problems should they arise.
40
Stress
Just as in humans, stress is an important factor in fish wellbeing. Although stress may not kill
fish directly, a stressed fish has an impaired immune system, and so becomes more
susceptible to parasites and illnesses.
Stress can be caused by a range of factors, and can be classed either as acute or chronic.
Acute stress could be caused by a sudden change in pH or temperature. Chronic stress may
be caused by prolonged exposure to elevated, but not lethal, ammonia levels. Both types of
stress are dangerous to fish.
Sources of stress:
Water quality problems (see above)
Excessive handling or fish tank disturbance
Insufficient hiding places/shade (or too much light)
Imbalanced diet or overfeeding
Transportation of fish
Overcrowding
Unless fish can be produced on site, they must be transported from hatcheries to the
aquaponic system. Transportation is always stressful to fish as it involves netting and
handling, sudden changes of water, overcrowding, high ammonia levels and low oxygen
levels. Transportation stresses increase as the size of the fish increases. It is not unusual to
suffer mortalities during, or just after transporting fish. To reduce transportation stress, try
to move only small fish and ensure adequate oxygenation en-route, ideally by using pure
oxygen. On arrival, it is important to maintain high filtration and high aeration in the fish
tank.
In general, it is better to prevent stress than to cure it. However, the steps necessary to
prevent and cure stress are almost the same:
1) Identify and remove sources of stress (e.g., improve water quality; stop handling fish)
2) Ensure adequate aeration in the fish tank
3) Ensure adequate filtration – check that the growbeds are flooding and draining
correctly
4) Shade the fish tank, and provide refuges for the fish
42
Many commercially available medicines and treatments will have a detrimental effect on the
health of the microbial communities in the growbeds and on the plants, and so it is always
important to select the most appropriate treatment method for sick fish.
Prevention is always better than cure. Most diseases and parasites can only take hold when a
fish’s immune system is suppressed due to stress or poor water quality. Infectious organisms
can also be introduced as new fish are stocked, and so it is important to quarantine new fish
effectively.
Parasites
The mature parasite (trophont) leaves the fish, and settles on the bottom where it produces
a gelatinous cyst (tomont), and divides and reproduces. Eventually this cyst breaks open
releasing up to 1000 new individuals (tomites)
into the water, which must find a host within
24-48 hours. The whole life cycle takes 2 -14
days depending on water temperature.
Treatment
Performing adequate quarantine procedures on new stock should prevent the introduction
of white spot. Also, a fish’s natural defences should be able to ward off infection if the fish is
not stressed and the water quality remains good.
There are several commercially available medicines for treating white spot. It is also possible
to use formalin, potassium permanganate or salt if the fish will tolerate raised salinity.
However, all these treatments are detrimental to aquaponic growbeds, and so the fish tank
must be isolated, or the fish removed to a separate hospital tank to be treated.
All of the treatment options are only able to kill the free-swimming tomite stages, and so
treatment must last for several days, allowing time for tomonts to release tomites. Infected
fish can be given a salt bath (20g per litre for 20-30 minutes) and returned to a hospital
tank/isolated fish tank containing salt at 1-2g per litre for 1 week. During this time, any
tomites emerging in the aquaponic setup will fail to find a host in time, and will also die.
Anchor worm is actually a copepod crustacean and not a worm at all. It can infect many
species of freshwater fish, on which it parasitizes mainly the skin, particularly around the
bases of the fins.
Anchor worm can cause stress to the infected fish, and secondary infections may establish in
the wound caused by the head.
44
Only the adult female anchor worm is visible; all other life stages are very small and
planktonic – including the males. The life cycle, from egg to mating, takes about 25 days at
20°C. If the free-swimming larvae do not find a host within a few days, then they will die.
Both eggs and mature females on a host can overwinter. Reproduction does not occur in
water below 15°C.
Treatment
Anchor worm are fairly resistant to many chemical treatments, and so eradication is difficult.
However, performing adequate quarantine procedures on new stock should prevent their
introduction. Also, a fish’s natural defences should be able to ward off infection if the fish is
not stressed and the water quality remains good.
Salt water can kill anchor worm. Unfortunately, in an aquaponic system salt water will also
kill the plants. However, anchor worm are large and thus easy to see and remove.
Net all the fish and visually inspect each one, removing any visible anchor worm with
tweezers. Then treat the fish to a salt bath (20g non-iodized salt per litre for 20 to 30
minutes) to help clean the wound and prevent secondary infection. Repeat every couple of
days. As this process removes mature females and eggs, then over time it should be possible
to eradicate the infection.
Other parasites
There are several other parasites that may infect fish skin and gills – lice, flukes, Costia
(Ichthyobodo) and Trichodina. Aside from lice, it is not uncommon for fish to host these
parasites in small numbers throughout their lives. However, if a fish becomes stressed, or
water quality deteriorates, then the fish’s immune system can no longer control the parasite
numbers, and they can become a problem. As they are so small, accurate diagnosis is only
possible with a microscope. In general, salt bath treatments can be used to treat other
suspected parasite infections.
Disease
Bacteria
Bacteria are naturally present in aquatic ecosystems. Indeed, some are essential for
biofiltration and the conversion of ammonia to nitrate. However, some bacteria can become
pathogenic to fish, and cause health problems. Bacterial problems generally appear if the
fish’s immune system has been compromised in some way (e.g. through stress). Also,
wounds caused by abrasion or parasites could become infected by bacteria.
Accurate diagnosis of bacterial disease requires laboratory analysis. Typical signs of bacterial
disease are listed below, though these signs are not exclusive to bacterial disease and could
instead be indicative of other conditions from poor water quality to parasites:
• Red and inflamed areas on the body and fins, raised scales, skin ulcers, exophtalmos
(pop-eye), dropsy (swollen abdomen), fin rot. Additionally, affected fish may be
lethargic and anorexic
• Internally there may be lesions or haemorrhages in internal organs and/or a build-up
of often-bloody fluid in the abdomen (ascites).
Treatment
The first step in treating bacterial disease is to identify the causes – most probably stress and
water quality problems – and rectify them. This means that the fish’s immune system will be
better placed to fight the infection on its own. It is possible to give fish baths in potassium
permanganate solution to “shock” the bacteria, giving the fish’s immune system more
chance to work.
For serious infections it may be necessary to feed medicated food to the fish, or inject
antibiotics. Alternatively, the infected fish may be euthanized using clove oil:
Fungus
Water moulds (Saprolegnia) normally feed on dead organic matter – fish wastes, uneaten
food etc., however, they can also act as opportunistic parasites and colonise damaged or
stressed fish.
Fish mucus contains fungicides that, under normal circumstances, prevent fungal growth.
However, if the fish have open wounds or are stressed then this ability is weakened. Fungus
can also attack fish eggs. On a fish, fungus appears as grey/white patches, later developing
into cotton wool like tufts. As it spreads, healthy tissue can be destroyed and fungal infection
can be fatal if not treated efficiently.
Treatment
Treatment of fungal infections is difficult, and fungus can never be eliminated from a system.
It is important, therefore, to ensure that optimal conditions are maintained during and after
treatment, and that any predisposing factors (e.g. parasite infection) are treated at the same
time.
Fungus can be treated with salt baths (up to 20g per litre for up to 30 minutes every other
day, or in a hospital tank salted with 1-5g/l until the fish’s health improves)
Alternatively, potassium permanganate baths can be used (3-4mg/l for up to 4 hours) every
4th day. In severe cases, potassium permanganate can be made into a paste and rubbed into
the lesion.
47
Chapter 8:
Plant health
Light and air: Plants use light energy to change raw materials - carbon dioxide from the air
and water - into food substances (sugars). This process of food production is called
photosynthesis:
Respiration, the reverse process of photosynthesis, uses sugars and oxygen to generate
energy. Plants respire to generate the energy they use for growth. Plant respiration is higher
overnight, when there is no light available for photosynthesis.
Water: is essential to all life on earth. No known organism can exist without water. Plants use
water to make sugars during photosynthesis, and also to carry nutrients from the roots to the
leaves, and sugars from the leaves back down to the roots and fruits.
48
Space: Plants must have space in order to grow; don’t forget that the roots need space too! If
there is not enough space, the plants will be small and stunted. Large plants need a large
space for their roots and branches. Therefore it is important to think about the space needs
of each plant when designing growbed layouts.
Nutrients: Plants need many different nutrients to grow and develop healthily. Those needed
in the largest amounts, and which form the largest fraction of plant tissue, are referred to as
macronutrients. Plants also need trace nutrients or micronutrients. Trace nutrients are not
major components of plant tissue, but, for example, make up key components of vitamins. If
plants suffer a shortage of any nutrient in particular, it is called a nutrient deficiency. Signs of
deficiencies of different nutrients are often very similar and hard to diagnose accurately.
There are many parasites and diseases that can attack plants; just as with fish, stressed
plants are far more susceptible to these problems. The first step in combating plant disease
therefore, is to ensure they receive the correct nutrition and environmental conditions. In an
aquaponic system, the pH is of paramount importance, as will be discussed below.
Plants and pH
A very high or very low pH will affect the plant’s ability to take up nutrients, even if the
nutrients are present in high concentrations. This is called nutrient block-out and will cause
the plants to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. It is important to note that not all plants
have the same pH preference, but the ideal range is between 5.0 and 7.0. Very few plants
can tolerate a pH higher. If your pH is too high or too low, the first thing that you should do is
correct it (see chapter 2: water quality). Some issues associated with incorrect pH include:
• Toxic Sodium levels: Alkaline soil (high pH) collects salt and sodium carbonates, which
affect a plant's ability to develop roots. Stunted plant roots have difficulty absorbing
nutrients and water.
• Mineral deficiencies: Iron and manganese react in highly alkaline soil, changing into
forms that make them unavailable for plant use. Plants with insufficient iron and
manganese produce fewer and poorer crops.
• Inaccessible Phosphorous: With high pH, the phosphorous (P) in soil becomes an
insoluble solid, which is unusable to plants. In order for P to be available for plants,
soil pH needs to be in the range 6.0 to 7.5. If pH is lower than 6, P starts forming
insoluble compounds with iron (Fe) and aluminium (Al) and if pH is higher than 7.5 P
starts forming insoluble compounds with calcium (Ca).
49
Macronutrients
Nitrogen (N)
• Nitrogen is part of all living cells and is a necessary part of all proteins, enzymes and
metabolic processes involved in the synthesis and transfer of energy.
• Nitrogen is part of chlorophyll, the green pigment of the plant that is responsible for
photosynthesis.
• Helps leaf and stem growth, increasing seed and food production.
Deficiency signs: Yellowing of old leaves; new leaves and stem often pale green.
Phosphorus (P)
• Phosphorus is also an essential part of the process of photosynthesis.
• Encourages root growth and germination.
• Involved in the formation of all oils and sugars.
• It aids with the transformation of solar energy into chemical energy.
Deficiency signs: Leaf tips look burnt, followed by older leaves turning a dark green or
reddish-purple.
Potassium (K)
• Aids with the production and transportation of sugars, building proteins, ripening of fruit
and reduces diseases.
Deficiency signs: Older leaves may wilt and look scorched. Interveinal chlorosis begins at the
base, scorching inward from leaf margins.
Calcium (Ca)
• Is an essential part of plant cell walls which strengthen the plant, it also contributes to
root development, primarily that of the root tips.
Deficiency signs: New leaves (top of plant) are distorted or irregularly shaped. Causes
blossom end rot.
Magnesium (Mg)
• Magnesium is part of chlorophyll and essential for photosynthesis.
• Activates many plant enzymes needed for growth and a healthy leaf structure.
Deficiency signs: Older leaves turn yellow at edge leaving a green arrowhead shape in the
centre of the leaf.
Sulphur (S)
• Essential for production of protein, chlorophyll, enzymes and vitamins.
• Improves root growth and seed production.
• Helps with vigorous plant growth and resistance to cold.
Deficiency signs: Younger leaves turn yellow first, sometimes followed by older leaves.
51
Micronutrients
Boron (B) Aids production of sugar and carbohydrates.
• Helps in the use of nutrients and regulates other nutrients
• Essential for seed and fruit development
Deficiency signs: Terminal buds die, witches’ brooms form.
In aquaponic systems, the best way to ensure that plants do not suffer from nutrient
deficiencies is to maintain the correct pH (7-7.5), and to feed the fish a diet containing a full
nutrient spectrum such as soldier fly larvae and duckweed. If plants still show nutrient
deficiencies then it will be necessary to add the missing nutrients. This may be achieved
either inorganically (for example, phosphorous can be added in the form of phosphoric acid
(used to lower pH), and iron can be added in the form of chelated iron); or organically in the
form of a foliar feed, compost tea or worm castings (see below). It is also possible to use
inorganic, micronutrient-laden plant fertilizer, but first check that it contains no ingredients
that could be harmful to the fish, and add it gradually to the system.
53
Aquaponics-safe fertilisers
Plant based liquid/foliar feed
A homemade liquid feed is a very good way to boost plant health. It is usually applied as a
spray to the leaves, in which case it can be called a foliar feed. Foliar feeds can also help in
pest control, both by boosting plant health, and acting as a deterrent to pest organisms.
Molasses spray
Spraying molasses
Compost tea
Compost tea is not just a fertiliser. In fact, it is a soup of beneficial microbes that work with
the plants to protect them, and to help them take up all the nutrients they need. Compost
tea can be applied as a foliar feed or a liquid feed. It would also be beneficial to add compost
tea while cycling an aquaponic system.
How to make it: Take a few handfuls of well-rotted compost, and tie it in a mesh bag
weighted with a rock. This provides the source of beneficial microbes. Suspend this bag in a
20L bucket full nearly to the top with de-chlorinated water. Take a small aquarium air pump
and position the air stone underneath the mesh
bag so that the bubbles agitate the contents. The
aeration is very important to prevent anaerobic
fermentation occurring, which could produce
harmful microbes. Add 2-3 tablespoons of
molasses, a food supply that allows the
beneficial microbes to grow and multiply rapidly.
Leave the mixture to brew for 2-3 days, making
sure that the air pump is always on. Stir/squeeze
the bag every so often to keep things well mixed.
To use, first strain the liquid through a fine cloth
and then apply either as a foliar feed or liquid
fertiliser to plant roots.
Brewing compost tea
55
Worm castings
Worms provide us with one of the best sources of plant nutrition known to man – their
castings (excrement). In fact, worm castings stimulate plant growth more than any other
natural product available.
Worm castings contain a highly active biological mixture of bacteria, enzymes, remnants of
plant matter and animal manure, as well as worm cocoons (while damp). The castings are
rich in water-soluble plant nutrients and minerals that are essential for plant growth, such as
concentrated nitrates, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, calcium, manganese, copper,
zinc, cobalt, borax, iron, carbon and nitrogen. The minerals in worm castings are in a form
that is immediately accessible to plants; animal manures and chemical fertilisers first have to
be broken down in the soil before plants can absorb them.
How to use them: There are several ways to benefit from worm castings in an aquaponic
system. The first (and simplest) is to add a handful of worms to each growbed. This ensures
that the fish wastes and old plant roots get swiftly converted back into nutrients that plants
can absorb. Worms also help to distribute nutrients evenly within the growbed.
To get extra benefit from worm castings, they may be used as a foliar or liquid feed for
plants. Take 1 cup (250ml) of worm castings, and add them to 4 litres of water. Mix well and
leave for one week. Strain the liquid through a fine cloth before spraying on plants. It is also
possible to brew “worm casting tea” using the same technique as for compost tea.
56
Soft pesticide
Pest control recipes
As we have seen before, in an aquaponic system the fish, All the following recipes are for
bacteria and plants all live in a symbiotic relationship, meaning foliar sprays. To use, spray
that they all depend on each other in order to live. Aquaponics liberally onto the affected plants.
is all about creating a healthy ecosystem, and so it is normal to Remember to pay attention to
have a range of insects and spiders living amongst the plants the undersides of the leaves, and
too. However, there are some organisms that are plant to spray in the evening to
parasites, and can cause serious problems. If any pest organisms prevent leaf-burn (caused by
appear in an aquaponic garden, then it is important to strong sunlight striking droplets
remember all the beneficial organisms that keep the system on leaves).
alive – chemical pesticides, insecticides or fungicides must not
be used, as they will also kill off the beneficial organisms! Garlic spray 1: Put 4-5 cloves of
Thankfully there are many effective alternatives that can be garlic in a food processer with
used not just in aquaponics, but also in soil gardening and some water, and blend until they
farming. have been completely pulverised.
Make up to one litre with fresh
water, and strain through a fine
sieve to prevent clogging the
General control strategies
plant sprayer.
Quarantine and Inspection - Carefully
Garlic spray 2: Put 4-5 chopped
inspect new bought plants for any pest
cloves of garlic in a small bottle
activity. It may be worth quarantining
of olive oil, and leave in the sun
new plants until you are sure that
for at least a week. Then, add 1-
there are no pests present. Also,
2 teaspoons of garlic infused oil
inspect all plants regularly as early
to a litre of water. Shake well
detection of any pest is important. A
before use.
good way to detect and limit flying
pests like whitefly is to use sticky
Essential oil spray: Add 3-4 drops
yellow traps.
of the essential oil (e.g. neem oil)
to a litre of water. Shake well
Sticky trap before use.
Manual Control – Treat all susceptible plants at the same time.
Soap spray: Dissolve 1-2
Trim, bag and remove heavily infested leaves and discard highly
teaspoons of soft liquid soap in a
infested plants. Periodically hose small plants with a strong
litre of water.
spray. Wipe leaves of larger plants with a soft, damp cloth.
Physically remove large pests (e.g. grasshoppers) and feed them
to the fish. Reapply these treatments regularly so that you can
keep the pest under control.
57
Biological Control - Predators There are numerous insects like lacewings, predatory thrips,
bug eyed bugs and ladybirds that prey on plant pests. You can buy them or catch them from
the wild. When buying make sure that the predator does prey on the type of pest that you
have, as some predators are very specific.
If predators are used, be very careful if you want to also apply soft pesticides or foliar feeds
as they could kill the predators as well as pest organisms.
Spider mites, as their name suggests, are closely related to spiders. They are very small
(0.4mm long when adults), have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single oval body region.
They produce very fine silk webbing. Their colours range form red and brown to yellow and
green depending on the species; there are approximately 1,600 species. They generally live
on the under sides of leaves of plants. They can cause damage by puncturing the plant cells
to feed. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles. When many of these feeding spots occur
near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant
becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely. Heavily infested plants may be discoloured,
stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk,
which collects dust and looks dirty. Spider mites are known to feed on several hundred
species of plant.
Spider mite and eggs (left) and typical spider mite leaf damage and web (right).
Spider mite species seem to be warm weather active pests. All spider mites go through the
same stages of development. They can develop rapidly during this time, becoming full-grown
in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen
eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead
to extremely rapid increases in mite populations. Most spider mite activity peaks during the
warmer months.
Control strategies
Manual control: Wash plant; remove and destroy infested leaves.
Biological control: Predatory mites Phytoseiulus persimilis, Neoseiulus californicus and
Mesoseiulus longipes
Chemical control: Neem oil, garlic oil, soap solution, molasses spray
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Thrips
Thrips are very small, slender insects, about 1-2mm long. They are usually tan or dark
coloured. Immature thrips are white, yellow, or orange. They are difficult to see without a
hand lens, but may appear as threads on the plant. Adults can fly, jump, or run quickly.
Thrips have six life cycle stages including egg, larvae, pupae and adult. They prefer warm
temperatures and dry conditions; thundery weather can trigger their swarming.
Control strategies
Manual control: Wash plant; remove and destroy infested leaves, particularly silvery areas
where eggs are present.
Biological control: Predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris and predatory bug Orius laevigatus
Chemical control: Neem oil, garlic oil, soap solution, molasses spray.
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Whitefly
Adult whiteflies are white and moth-like and are just over 1mm long. Their wings and bodies
are covered with powdery wax. Whiteflies usually remain on the undersides of leaves and in
growing tips where they suck the sap of the host. When disturbed they flutter around in a
characteristic and noticeable way. The small, flat, oval nymphs, often called scales, also
inhabit the undersides of the leaves where they too suck sap. The nymphs are colourless and
virtually transparent until they pupate into thicker, white, wax-covered pupae.
Signs of whitefly infestation are yellowing and mottling of the foliage followed by stunting,
wilting and death if the plants are heavily infested. Sooty moulds and specks of honeydew
that the larvae excrete over the leaves make the plants unsightly. By the time that these
symptoms are apparent the plants will already be colonised by several generations of
whitefly.
Whiteflies generally reproduce by parthenogenesis (females lay eggs without being fertilised
by a male). Females lay about 200 - 250 eggs during a lifespan of 3 - 6 weeks. The total period
from egg to adult is about 27 days. Whiteflies hibernate over winter on any plants until the
following season.
Control strategies
Manual control: Washing
Biological Control: The white fly predator Encarsia formosa
Chemical control: Neem oils, plant oil extracts, molasses spray. At least three applications
sprayed once every 5 days are usually necessary.
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Aphids
Aphids are easy to see. They are usually small (1-2mm long) with pear-shaped, soft-bodies,
conspicuous legs, and antennae. Aphids can be green, black, brown, grey, yellow, red, or
purple. Aphids tend to cluster on stems just below flower buds or on newly opening leaf
buds, as well as on flowers and the undersides of leaves. Aphids pierce plant tissue, suck sap,
and excrete sticky honeydew.
There are 4,400 species of aphid worldwide, of which 250 are classed as serious agricultural
pests. They can migrate great distances – some life stages are winged, and can fly or
passively ride the wind to find new plant hosts. Some species of aphid will only parasitize one
plant species; others can parasitize a wide range of different plants. Aphid infestation can
stress plants hugely by extracting a large quantity of vital nutrients from the plant. In
addition, aphids can transmit potentially lethal plant viruses to the host plants.
Aphids reproduce both sexually and asexually via parthenogenesis. They are viviparous,
giving birth to live young. They typically live for 20 to 40 days, and in some species the
parthenogenetic viviparous female has a daughter inside her, which, even before being born,
is already parthenogenetically producing her own daughter. Thus, one female hatched in
spring can produce many billions of descendants in a season.
Control options
Manual control: Washing, physical
removal/crushing.
Biological control: Aphid predators
include ladybird larvae and adults,
hoverfly larvae, parasitic wasps,
lacewings, aphid midge larvae and crab
spiders.
Chemical control: soap, neem oil, plant
Ladybird adult (left) and larva (right) preying on
oil extracts, molasses spray.
aphids.
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Chapter 9:
Constructing
an aquaponic
system
As highlighted previously, aquaponic systems differ primarily in the type of growbed used for
the plants. In this chapter we shall look at how to build a simple, domestic scale, CHOP flood
and drain system. The flood and drain aquaponic system has many factors which make it
ideal for first time and small scale setups, not least its ease of construction and maintenance.
For water to travel from the fish tank to the growbeds then
to the sump tank by gravity then there must be a height Vertical growbeds – great
gradient. The fish tank water surface should be about for strawberries!
15cm higher than the surface of the growbeds, and the
bottom of the growbeds should be about 15cm above the
surface of the sump tank. To achieve this, either construct
a support to raise the growbeds up from the ground, or
build the growbeds at ground level and excavate a hole for
the sump tank.
Tank volumes and • Fish tank sides should extend at least 10cm above the
growbed areas maximum water level to prevent fish jumping out.
• Growbeds should be deep enough to hold 30cm of
the growing medium.
Imagine that you have: • Calculate 40% of the total growbed volume – this is
3 Growbeds
the maximum amount of water that they can hold
1m x 1m x 30cm each
simultaneously. The sump tank needs to be able to hold this
Total volume = 3x1x1x0.3 =
volume of water PLUS the minimum depth needed to keep
0.9m3
the pump submerged.
Calculate fish tank volume:
Remember that the general ratio of total growbed volume to
Growbed to fish tank volume
fish tank volume is 2:1. For example: a fish tank of 0.5m3
ratio: 2:1, so fish tank volume is
(500L) would require a total growbed volume of 1m3(1000L).
0.9 ÷ 2 = 0.45m3 (450L)
As the growbed is 0.3m (30cm) deep, then the total growbed
area should be 3.33m2. An aquaponic setup may use either
Calculate sump tank size:
Water volume held in growbeds one large growbed or several smaller growbeds to achieve
40% of 0.9m3 is 0.36m3, or 360L the desired area. It is the growbed area that determines the
total weight of fish that the system can hold; refer to chapter
Sump tank must hold: 4 to calculate carrying capacity based on growbed area.
360L + pump depth
When designing the system layout, be sure to consider access
to all parts of the growbeds and plumbing so that repairs and
Pump is 10cm high:
And the sump tank measures maintenance can be carried out easily.
1m x 1m, so the pump needs
100L of water to remain 3: Gather and prepare materials
submerged.
Go shopping! If you choose to use
Total sump volume recycled containers such as
Must be at least 460L plastic tanks and barrels, be sure
(360L+100L) to clean them thoroughly before
use – any contamination in them
Sump depth will end up in your food!
Assuming the sump tank
measures 1mx1m, the minimum The growing medium must be
sump tank depth is rinsed before use. This removes
0.46m3 ÷ (1m x 1m) = 46cm. fine clay and silts that may
Growbeds made from white otherwise clog the system and
tanks, or IBCs suffocate plant roots.
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The growbed can now be put into place, and the growbed
drainpipe connected to the vacant side of the L bend. This
drainpipe must run horizontally from the siphon standpipe
to the sump tank.
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Drill a hole in the fish tank wall at the desired water surface
level. Put a wall connector through this hole and use a pair of
L bends on the outside to bring the pipework lower than the
outlet level. The pipe should then run horizontally, with as
few bends as possible, for the length of the growbeds. Each
growbed is supplied via a T-junction from this pipe.
Growbed supply pipe detail
On the inside of the fish tank, attach a T-junction to the wall connector (not an L bend, or all
the water will siphon from the fish tank!) with a pipe extending vertically almost to the
bottom of this fish tank. This is so that the water going to the growbeds will be drawn from
the bottom of the fish tank, drawing with it any solid waste. It is a good idea to screen this
pipe to prevent small fish being sucked up into the plumbing. An easy way to do this is to cap
the end, and drill a lot of 8mm holes in the cap and bottom few centimetres of the pipe.
Pump
Make sure that the pump is the right capacity for your system –
measure the total height difference from the floor of the sump
tank (where the pump will sit) to the top of the fish tank (where
the water will discharge). This height is the head. Now estimate
the total volume of water the system will hold – this is the
volume the pump should be able to move every hour. Check
that your pump’s flow rate at the given head is sufficient to
cycle the whole water volume every hour.
Place the pump into the sump tank and connect it to a pipe
leading to the fish tank. It can be useful to put a T-junction and
ball valve in this pipe to enable direct water return to the sump
tank. In this way, the flow rate to the fish tank can be controlled. Pump, pipe to fish tank
Again, use as wide a bore pipe as is possible, and try to avoid and ball valve for water
sharp direction changes; this helps to minimise resistance, thus return to sump tank.
increasing the pump’s efficiency and lifespan.
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Once the construction is finished you are ready to fill the system with growing medium and
water. Whichever growing medium you choose to use, it is important to rinse it well first so
as to avoid introducing fine silts to the system. Put the washed medium into the growbeds to
a depth of 30cm, making sure that the siphon pipes do not get dislodged (putting a brick on
top of the pipes helps). Then fill the system up with fresh water.
Make sure that the electric connections are located in such a way that they will not get wet,
plug in the pump and switch it on.
8: Check everything
With the pump running, check the system for leaks, ensure the siphons function correctly,
and adjust flow rate as necessary using the ball valves feeding the growbeds and returning to
the sump/fish tank.
It is normal for the water to run a bit cloudy for the first few days – you can never rinse all
the dirt from the growing medium.
“Cycling” is the term used for getting an aquaponic system biologically ready to hold fish and
plants. Please refer to chapter 2 for details.
Chapter 10:
System
operation
and
maintenance
Once an aquaponic system is up and running, the day-to-day operation and maintenance is
pretty straightforward and should not be too time consuming. In fact, it can be as simple as a
quick daily inspection while feeding the fish and harvesting any plants that are ready.
Obviously to maintain the system in good health it is important to invest a bit more time
every so often, but with a well planned activities schedule, operation of an aquaponic system
does not need to place excessive demands on your time or energy.
• Visual inspection – check that the pump and aerator are working; check that water is
flowing properly into each growbed; check that the sump tank water level is OK;
check that the autosiphons are flowing properly (either siphoning or stopped – not
trickling for more than a minute or two).
• Feed the fish – make sure not to overfeed. If feeding pellets, then remember to
remove uneaten food after three minutes. It is best to feed twice a day – morning and
evening.
• Check the plants for pests and diseases – just a quick look. If you find any large pests
like crickets, catch them and feed them to the fish!
• Harvest anything that is ready
• Check and record water pH
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Weekly tasks
Once a week, try to devote a little more time. Perform all the daily tasks a little more
thoroughly than normal, and in addition:
• Harvest, prune and support plants as necessary.
• Transplant seedlings to replace whole plants harvested (e.g. lettuces removed).
• Plant new seeds to replace seedlings transplanted.
• Check and record all water quality parameters (including pH and KH).
• If necessary, add acid or base to modify pH.
• Harvest fish as necessary.
• Top up aquaponic system if necessary.
• Apply foliar feed or safe pesticides such as molasses spray to all plants if necessary.
Basil harvest
Monthly tasks
Once a month it is a good idea to clean the plumbing, as otherwise plant roots and biofilms
can develop inside the pipework, increasing resistance to the flow of water, this
compromising the pump’s efficiency.
• Check siphon shroud pipes for plant roots, and if necessary clean them by running a
knife around the inside.
• Clean all the pipework (growbed supply pipes, pump to fish tank pipe). To clean the
pipes, remove them and pull a large bottlebrush through them. Rinse them off and
re-assemble. The gunk that you clean out makes great fertiliser for your garden!
• Net some fish for a visual health check.
• Stock new fish if necessary.
• Check buffering medium (eggshells etc.) if used, and add more if necessary.
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Troubleshooting
PROBLEM: Pump not running.
CHECK: That it is plugged in, and that the electricity cable is also connected to the mains.
Check that there is not a power cut. If the pump is broken, buy a new one immediately. The
pumps are not very expensive in comparison to the value of all the food being grown, and so
it could be a good idea to buy a spare pump to use in emergencies.
PROBLEM: Growbeds not filling; pump not running or running very slowly.
CHECK: Is the water level in the sump tank too low for pump to operate? If so, top up
immediately with stored water. To top up with exactly the correct amount, remove siphon
bell tubes and let each growbed fill right up. Once every growbed is full with water, top up
sump tank with enough water to completely submerge the pump plus a little bit more;
replace siphon bell tubes, leaving a few minutes between each one to stagger flood/drain
timings. If water level was ok, check pump and plumbing for obstructions; clean pump and
pipework to restore flow rate.
Chapter 11:
Fresh fish
skills
Now that you have your very own fish farm, you need to know how to deal with the fish; i.e.
how to kill, clean, prepare and store fish ready for eating. This chapter details a few useful
techniques for preparing fish for eating or storing. It is always preferable to eat the fish right
away, but if you choose to store it then store it in the form that you will eat it – i.e. if you’ll
want fillets next month, fillet the fish and freeze the fillets.
Killing fish
Once you have chosen the fish that you would like to eat, you should catch and kill it without
delay. It is important to kill fish swiftly and humanely to minimise bruising of the flesh and to
prevent a build-up of stress hormones in the fish, which can alter the flavour. The most
effective and humane way to kill a fish is by striking it across the head with a solid stick - it
can be wood, metal or solid plastic - something like a broomstick, rolling pin or steel pipe, for
example.
Grab the fish with a towel – to avoid slipping – and place it on a hard, firm surface, then
strike it over the head as if you were hammering a nail. One strike should be sufficient, but if
you miss then do the second strike as fast as possible. The fish may flap for a few moments; if
it continues to do so for more than half a minute then another good strike is needed!
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Remove the gills from both sides of the head – you can use
some scissors or a sharp knife. You should see the blood
starting to flow out from the gills almost immediately.
Descaling
If you would like to eat the skin of the fish then you will need
to remove its scales. Scales grow in overlapping rows from
head to tail. To remove them just scrape the fish firmly from
A set of filleting knives tail to head. There are tools specially designed for this or you
can use the blunt side of a knife or make your own fish scaler.
See sidebar for some pictures.
Remember that it is
easier to descale a
fish when it is at its
freshest! Do not
Fish scaler leave it in the fridge
for days, as the
mucus tends to dry
and can glue the
scales together.
To descale or not:
• Keep the scales on if you want to take the skin off
• Keep the scales on if you intend to barbecue your fish or
bake it in salt crust
• Take the scales off if you want to eat the skin
Fish net
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Filleting fish
The main aim of filleting a fish is to get the
most substantial portions of a fish from its
skeleton. Remember that you can use all the
rest of fish for a wonderful fish stock. Filleting
a fish is not an easy job, so be patient and
keep on practising!
First fillet
1. Remove the head: Cut diagonally from just behind the gill to the top of the head.
2. To make the first cut, place the tail of the fish pointing towards you, hold the knife
parallel to the worktop and start the cut where the top of the head was. Slide the
knife from the top end all the way down to the tail, just above the dorsal fin. This cut
does not need to be very deep - about 2cm is usually fine - it is just a guide to start
locating the spine.
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Second fillet
6. Turn the fish over and this time start your cut from the tail of the fish to the head.
Make the cut along the back on the upper side of the dorsal fin. It will be easier if the
head is pointing towards you.
79
7. Detach the tail of the fish in the same way as step 4, and proceed around the ribcage
in the same way as with the other fillet.
8. You now have your two fish fillets! Take a look at them and do the last trimmings;
maybe there are some spiny bones left which you can remove with tweezers.
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Storing fish
The best way to store your fish is to eat it straight away! There is nothing nicer than fresh
fish. If you do want to store it, you can put it in the fridge or freeze it. Never leave your fish
out in the heat for long and always cover from flies or other animals.
Fridge
Freezing
Defrosting
Do not rush the defrosting process of your fish. Do not use warm water or hot air to defrost,
if you do these the outer layer will defrost and ‘cook’ slightly while other parts of the fish are
still frozen.
The best way to defrost a fish is to put it in the fridge overnight. To do this take the fish out
of its bag and place it in a colander inside a large bowl or on a tray so that it doesn’t absorb
the melted water. Another good way is to immerse the fish completely in cold water. If you
use this method, keep the fish completely sealed inside a plastic bag, don’t expose the flesh
to the water or it will start to absorb it and will become soft and fragile.
81
82
Family: Alliaceae
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
pH: 6 - 7
Plant spacing: can be sown densely
Temperature: 15 – 35°C
Notes: Native to Europe, Asia and North America.
Chives are hardy bulb-forming perennials, growing up
to 30–50 cm tall. The bulbs are slender, conical, 2–
3 cm long and 1 cm broad, and grow in dense clusters
from the roots. Chives are easily propagated by seed;
to sow directly in an aquaponic system it is best to
sow the seeds on a thin layer of cotton wool as the seeds are quite small. Chives are also
easily propagated by division after the first signs of growth in early spring. In cold regions,
chives die back to the underground bulbs in winter, with the new leaves appearing in early
spring. Chives starting to look old can be cut back to about 2–5 cm. When harvesting, the
required number of stalks should be cut to the base. During the growing season, the plant
will continually regrow leaves, allowing for a continuous harvest.
Family: Amaranthaceae
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
pH: 6 - 7
Plant spacing: 40 – 50 cm
Temperature: 5 - 20°C
Notes: Believed to have originated in ancient Persia. Spinach
is an annual plant (rarely biennial), which thrives in cooler
weather. It can take hot weather as long as there is some
moisture and shade. Spinach grows to a height of 30 cm; the
leaves are from 2 –30 cm long and 1 – 15 cm broad. The
leaves taste better if the spinach is grown at a fast pace and
harvested young. Spinach should give a continual harvest for
most of the year as long as the plant is never allowed to flower. To plant spinach, sow seeds
into the growbeds. Do this weekly to ensure continual harvests.
84
Family: Apiaceae
Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
pH: 6 – 7.5
Plant spacing: 15 – 20 cm
Temperatures: 10 - 25°C
Notes: Native to southern Europe, North Africa to
south-western Asia, coriander is a hardy annual
herb. Coriander is a soft, hairless plant growing up
to 50 centimetres tall. It bolts (produces flowers)
in very hot weather, if plants are too close
together or transplanted. For this reason we
recommend sowing straight into the growbed. It is
best sown at intervals to ensure a continuous
harvest and to get bolting at different times.
Family: Asteraceae
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
pH: 6 - 7
Plant spacing: 15 – 30 cm
Temperature: 15 – 20°C
Notes: There are many varieties of
lettuce, but most thrive in cooler weather,
so this is one of the crops you can plant
early in the year. Lettuce is generally an
annual crop. They are half-hardy plants
and will tolerate light frosts. Leaf lettuces
are best grown in the early season
because they like cool weather, while
head lettuce can tolerate more heat. In
warmer climates try to give your lettuce plants partial shade during the day. Hot, sunny, or
dry conditions may cause the plants to turn bitter and bolt. Be sure to give the plants plenty
of room - “head” varieties of lettuce require more room than “leaf” varieties. Many types of
lettuce will continue to produce for months, as long as you keep harvesting a few leaves from
each plant.
Family: Brassicaceae
Plants in the Brassicaceae family have a tendency to bolt in hot weather.
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Cucurbits have separate male and female flowers, and so the female flowers require
pollination to set fruit. Normally this is performed by insects but to guarantee fruit
production it is best to do it manually. This is especially important if you are growing several
varieties of cucurbits – they will easily cross-pollinate, producing bizarre fruit combinations.
Preferably plant only one species in a bed. Symptoms of inadequate pollination include fruit
abortion and misshapen fruit. Partially pollinated flowers may develop fruit which are green
and develop normally near the stem end, but pale yellow and withered at the blossom end.
Cucurbits are very susceptible to fungal infections if their delicate roots are damaged, so it is
better to plant them straight into the growbed. They are also highly susceptible to pests like
aphids, whitefly, and grasshoppers.
Family: Chenopodiaceae
Mangold/Swiss chard/Chard (Beta vulgaris)
pH: 6 – 7.5
Plant spacing: 15 - 20 cm
Temperature: 10 – 30°C
Notes: Probably originated in the Mediterranean, Asia
Minor, the Caucasus, and the Near East. Chard is an annual
hardy leafy green that can survive hard frosts but requires
full sun in order to thrive (at least 6 hrs daily). Chard has
shiny green ribbed leaves, with stems that range from white
to yellow to red, depending on the cultivar. It has a slightly
bitter taste. You can start harvesting chard’s leaves (can be
eaten when small or large) and stems (can be steamed and
eaten like asparagus) at any time after the leaves form. This
is usually in the summer, though you may also be able to harvest chard in the autumn if they
did not overheat during summer (if they did, you can also replant in summer for an autumn
harvest). You can choose to cut the entire plant about 8 cm above the ground or just the
large outer leaves. By cutting just the large outer leaves, you leave the smaller leaves to
develop for future harvests. Raw chard is extremely perishable.
Family: Fabaceae
Peas (Pisum sativum)
pH: 5.5 – 6.5
Plant spacing: 13 – 18 cm
Temperature: 12 – 26°C
Notes: There are many different species of pea. Wild peas are
native to the Mediterranean basin and the Near East. Pea is an
annual, hardy plant that can survive hard frosts. The pea is a
green, pod-shaped vegetable, widely grown as a cool season
vegetable crop. They do not thrive in the summer heat of
warmer temperate and lowland tropical climates. Peas can
easily be grown from seed planted straight into the growbed.
Plan according to the variety because there are vining and bush
varieties; vines generally giving a higher yield. Peas’ harvest
time depends on the variety, but in general, peas left on the
vine longer will have a thicker texture; peas picked earlier will
be more tender. Harvest peas regularly to increase production.
Pea may be affected by the following pests: aphids, nematodes, spider mites and thrips.
Diseases: root rot and damping off, ascochyta blight.
90
Family: Lamiaceae
Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
pH: 5.5 -6.5
Plant spacing: 25 -35 cm
Temperature: 18 – 30°C
Notes: Native to India and tropical regions of Asia.
There are over 160 named cultivars available and
more new ones every year. Most common varieties
of basil are treated as annuals; some are perennial
in warm, tropical climates. Basil grows between 30–
130 cm tall, with opposite, light green, silky leaves
3–11 cm long and 1–6 cm broad. Basil is very
sensitive to cold, with best growth in hot, dry
conditions. It behaves as an annual if there is any chance of a frost. Harvest the young tender
leaves. Avoid flower production by pinching off any flower stems before they are fully
mature as, if left to flower, foliage production stops, leaves become more bitter and stem
becomes woody. Picking the leaves off the plant helps "promote growth", largely because
the plant responds by converting pairs of leaflets next to the topmost leaves into new stems.
Basil can also be propagated very reliably from cuttings, with the stems of short cuttings
suspended for two weeks or so in water until roots develop.
Family: Malvaceae
Okra/Lady’s fingers (Abelmoschus esculentus)
pH: 6 – 7.5
Plant spacing: 45 – 60 cm
Temperature: 21 – 35°C
Notes: Being native to Africa, okra likes a warm
temperate climate. The species is an annual or
perennial, growing to 2 m tall. The leaves are
10–20 cm long and broad, palmately lobed with
5–7 lobes. It has beautiful flowers from 4–8 cm
diameter. The fruit is a capsule up to 18 cm
long. The seed is quite big, so you can sow okra
straight into the growbeds. Okra should be
harvested when young, when the pods are
about as long as your finger. If pods are left on the vines too long, they become stringy. Cut
the pods with a sharp knife or clippers and handle them gently, as they bruise easily. Be sure
to harvest regularly so that production doesn't stop.
Family: Poaceae
Maize (Zea mays)
pH: 5.5 – 7.0
Plant spacing: 20 – 25 cm
Temperature: 15 – 35°C
Notes: Native to the Americas and cold
intolerant, maize has a shallow root system and
is therefore highly dependent on soil moisture,
making it perfect for aquaponics! There are
many different varieties of maize; the most
commercially grown has been bred for a
standardized height of 2.5 metres. The lower
leaves are like broad flags, generally 50–100 cm
long and 5–10 cm wide. Under the leaves and
close to the stem grow the ears, which contain seeds called kernels. The ears are female
inflorescences - clusters of flowers arranged on a stem that is composed of a main branch or
a complicated arrangement of branches. The ears are tightly covered
over by several layers of leaves such that they do not show themselves easily until the
emergence of the pale yellow silks which are stigmas (cornsilk). The apex of the stem ends in
the tassel, an inflorescence of male flowers. When the tassel is mature and conditions are
suitably warm and dry, anthers on the tassel release pollen. Maize pollen is wind dispersed.
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Each silk may become pollinated to produce one kernel of maize. It is important to bear this
in mind when planting maize - it is recommended to plant in blocks not just lines. To plant
you can just put the seed straight into the growbed. When the maize is 10 cm high, you could
also add a pea seed. The peas will climb on the maize stem. Harvest the maize while the
stigmas are still tender and the ears have completely filled out.
Family: Rosaceae
Strawberries (Fragaria sp.)
pH: 5 – 6.5
Plant spacing: 30 – 70 cm
Temperature: 15 – 25°C
Notes: Today's strawberries are the result of a
cross made in France 250 years ago between
fruits from North and South America.
Strawberries are hardy, perennial plants that will
survive hard frosts. If you do grow them from
seed, they can be transplanted into containers or
in a bed after they have grown three leaves.
Flowers must be removed in the first year to
ensure that all nutrients are directed towards the fruits after the plant is established. When
growing strawberries, do your best to avoid getting the fruits wet. It is very easy to plant
them at the edges of the growbeds and get the strawberries to just hang naturally.
Family: Solanaceae
Most crops in the Solanaceae are perennial, but often treated as annuals – particularly in
cooler climates. They are susceptible to pests and diseases such as aphids, whitefly and
spider mites. They have complete flowers – meaning they have male and female parts – and
are usually self-pollinating.