JANUARY 2019

SAFARI TELEGRAPH
NOCTURNAL WORLD OF SAFARI
Where to spot the elusive night-time species

EAST AFRICA’S OPEN PLAINS

The greatest wildlife show on Earth

JOURNAL ZAMBIA
From the tranquil wilderness
of North Luangwa to the
thundering Victoria Falls
 January 2019

4
4 
Z AMBIA JOURNAL

Contents W here to go and


what to see

6 WHAT’S NEW
 E xciting safari
experiences for 2019

8  EAST AFRICA’S
GREAT PLAINS
T he Masai Mara
and Serengeti

10  NOCTURNAL AFRICA
15
C reatures of the dark
Published by
SAFARI CONSULTANTS LTD
Africa House, 2 Cornard Mills,
Mill Tye, Great Cornard,
and where to find them

12 O UR TRAVELS
8
Suffolk CO10 0GW
A round up of our
t: 01787 888590
e: info@safari-consultants.com trips this year
w: www.safari-consultants.com

With thanks to
Wilderness Safaris, Dana Allen,
14 M ALARIA-FREE
Mike Myers, Anthony Grote, SOUTH AFRICA
Kyle de Nobrega, Remote Africa
Safaris, Pangolin Safaris, Mashatu Game viewing without
Game Reserve, Shenton Safaris,
Jaci’s Lodges, Richard Costin,
the tablets
Chiawa Camp, Mihingo Lodge,
&Beyond, Nkuringo Bwindi Lodge,
Surefoot Safaris, Kelvyn Derrick,
Okonjima and Sanbona whose
images appear in this newsletter.
15 S EYCHELLES SAFARI
Much more than just an
10
Cover shot
amazing beach destination
Civet by Dana Allen

16 PHOTOGRAPHIC HIDES
A selection of the
very best

16
During 2019 we shall be exhibiting at several shows. Please do pop by our stand for a chat,
and if you’d like to see any of us individually, please call to check which days we will be there.
We look forward to seeing you!
DESTINATIONS London Olympia 31 January – 3 February 2019
THE SUFFOLK SHOW Suffolk Showground Ipswich 29 – 30 May 2019
THE BIRD FAIR Rutland Water 16 – 18 August 2019

2 I Safari Telegraph I Januar y 2019


From the fun and games of GDPR earlier in the year to
the current uncertainty surrounding the future of the
United Kingdom, it is fair to say that 2018 has been an
interesting and at times challenging year to navigate!
Here at Safari HQ we are however in good spirits
and are looking ahead towards a land beyond Brexit,
whatever that may look like! We have welcomed Jenny
and Sam into our administration team, and Annabel
joined us from Botswana to develop our Product and
Marketing channels. We also enjoyed Eloise’s wedding
celebrations in the summer and have been working hard
on our new website, which will go live anytime soon.
Our sales team have criss-crossed Africa and the Indian
Ocean notching up a combined total of over six months
in the field! As always we have been experiencing the
wide range of safari products out there and learning
about the varied regions that are home to Africa’s
extraordinary people and wildlife.
In Africa, the brakes seem to be off when it comes to
investment in the safari industry as a wave of new
properties have emerged and operators compete to
provide the most incredible experiences. We do have
concerns that in many areas the focus has moved away
from the core ethos of a traditional ‘bush adventure’,
to make way for the more vogue ‘luxury in the wild’
philosophy. However, we are seeing some balance
Bill, Rob, Michele, Mary, Josie, Michaela, Frances, Roland, Jane, Eloise, Julia, Joe, Granniae, Jenny, Annabel and Sam
safari consultants safariuk
Welcome
being restored with various new high quality adventure
products becoming established. Exciting stuff! Despite
these developments in Africa, availability is an increasing
challenge in some regions, so please do contact us as
early as possible with your safari plans.
Sightings have been superb too, from migration
crossings and leopard kills to inquisitive elephants and
elusive aardvarks. From gorillas to gallinules, and from
porcupines to pangolins, you have seen it all! On our
website we have our 2018 Gallery which showcases
your wonderful photographs, including our Facebook
‘Photo of the Month’ winners.
We would like to know whether you would like to
continue receiving this newsletter. We have enclosed
a form which includes a pre-paid return card – all you
need to do is ‘tick the box’ and pop the card in the post
back to us. We really would love to share our newsletter
with you in the future, so if you are interested to stay on
our postal mailing list please do return the card!
Many thanks to all of you for your support. We hope you
have a relaxing and fun festive season, and a happy and
successful 2019.
safariconsultantslimited safari consultants
Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com I 3
Zambia
ZAMBIA
Kasanka and Bangweulu – Bill
Looking for the Africa of the early
pioneers? Go no further than the
seldom-visited, tsetse-infested regions
of Kasanka and the Bangweulu
wetlands of northern Zambia – WOW.
Kasanka, a beautiful park of woodland,
plains, lakes, rivers and swamps is one
you’re likely to have pretty much to
yourself, unless you travel during the
bat migration in November. The long
drive north to Bangweulu is one of
those magical African experiences as
you travel through one remote village
after another. Arriving at Bangweulu,
the fishing traps of the local people and
vast herds of black lechwe divide up
the floodplains and you have to explore
deeper into the swamp areas to see the
extraordinary shoebill. Well worth
every effort and although you may not
see the Big 5, this is explorers Africa.
Kafue – Mary
Kafue is one of Africa’s oldest and
largest national parks and is home to an
impressive variety of habitats; riverine
forest bordering the Kafue River and its
tributaries, miombo woodlands, open
grasslands and the seasonal Busanga
floodplains. It is this medley of terrains
that gives rise to an equally impressive
diversity of animals with twenty
4 I Safari Telegraph I Januar y 2019
different species of antelope, including
roan, the full range of predators,
elephants, buffalo, hippo and almost
500 recorded bird species all resident
in the park. For anyone wanting a more
remote wilderness experience, the
sheer scale of the park plus low visitor
numbers makes Kafue a good option for
a second visit to Zambia.
North Luangwa – Michele
The North Luangwa National Park
covers an area of just over 4,500 square
kilometres and offers a rich diversity of
habitat ranging from mopane woodland
and acacia thickets to riverine forest
and open grassland. With a limited road
network the park is best explored on
foot, and due to there being just a couple
of camps in the park, you can spend
days exploring without seeing any other
visitors. The concentrations of wildlife
may not quite compare with those of
the better known South Luangwa, but if
you enjoy walking, remoteness and raw
African wilderness, then it will National Park are rich with wildlife and “A MEDLEY OF
not disappoint! are one of the best places to see leopard
- the mature woodland of sausage and
TERRAINS THAT
winterthorn trees is an ideal habitat GIVES RISE TO
The Lower Zambezi – Frances to search for those large spotted paws AN EQUALLY
On the northern banks of the Zambezi dangling from a branch. The river brings
River, you’ll find one of the most
IMPRESSIVE
with it an array of experiences that only
beautiful game viewing regions in water can provide – astonishing sunsets, DIVERSITY OF
Africa. The plains of the Lower Zambezi kingfishers darting into the water, ANIMALS”
 Zambia

hippo’s grunting in the shallows, the

evocative cry of the fish eagle overhead,
gliding silently in a canoe past bee-
eater colonies and elephants swimming
across the channel ahead of your boat.
It is a true African wilderness in an
idyllic setting.

South Luangwa Game

Viewing & Northern Sector
– Julia
With game drives by day and night,
walking, hides and sleep-out options,
South Luangwa has plenty of activities
to offer. It is a beautiful park with
varied habitats and surprises around
every corner. Personally, it is the game
viewing that really blows me away.
Wild dogs chasing leopards up a tree,
and then chasing impala almost into
our vehicle! Hippo squabbling in the
receding pools, lions hunting in the
darkness and elephants crossing the
winding Luangwa River in convoy.
Seeing two male lions on foot was
incredibly exciting too! This is purist
Africa and really delivers on the raw
big game experience.

South Luangwa Walking

& Southern Sector – Jane
I don’t mind admitting that I like my
safaris to be exclusive. A fortnight
with no other vehicles or human-
activity is heaven! Small bush camps
with a cacophony of African sounds
both day and night. The southern
sector of South Luangwa offers that
experience, with an emphasis on
walking. Transferring on foot from
one camp to the next takes you
through beautiful woodland and
hidden lagoons to wide river expanses.
I have a great many memories from
this exclusive corner of Africa! They
include my favourite camp, two
Pel’s fishing owls, my first leopard
sighting and stalking the endemic
Thornicroft’s giraffe.
Liuwa Plains – Rob Upper Zambezi &
How many places in the world can you Victoria Falls – Joe
Main picture: drive off-road for six hours non-stop, The Victoria Falls are one of Africa’s
Buffalo in Kafue without barely a tree to interrupt the great scenic highlights and can be
Above clockwise flat 360 degree horizon, and certainly included in any Zambian holiday
from top left: without seeing another vehicle or itinerary. The falls themselves are
Rob in Liuwa Plains, human being? Liuwa Plains is an majestic and are a year round attraction,
hippopotamus, incredible destination – a vast area of though the volume of water cascading
lion encounter on open grassland, much of which floods over the falls varies seasonally with peak
foot, yellow billed after the rainy season, that is home to a volumes experienced between March
stork, black lechwe significant array of wildlife, including and May. Helicopter ‘flights of angels’
in Bangweulu lion, cheetah and spotted hyaena, a are a memorable way to view the falls
migrating population of approximately from above, whilst swimming in Devil’s
25,000 wildebeest and over 300 bird Pool close to Livingstone Island at the
species. Perhaps not for the uninitiated, very top of the main falls is a wonderful
Liuwa Plains should be a serious experience. Upstream from the falls,
consideration for experienced Africa the tranquil Zambezi River offers game
travellers who enjoy wilderness, birding viewing, relaxation, fishing and birding,
and something just a little bit different! whilst it is also possible to visit local
villages for a more cultural experience.
For more information Numerous excellent properties provide
visit safari-consultants.com an ideal base at either the start or end
or call 01787 888590 of your safari.

Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com I 5

What’s New
Rwanda
The increase in gorilla permits
from US$750.00 to US$1500.00 per
person in Rwanda has not put off the
development of new properties, though
it does seem that most development is
taking place at the luxury end of the
market! Singita have taken over the old
Gorilla’s Nest Lodge and are due to open
their Kwitonda Lodge in August 2019,
whilst Wilderness Safaris have spread
their wings yet again to Akagera National
Park and in March 2019 will open
Magashi Camp, a luxury 12 bed tented
camp overlooking Lake Rwanyakazinga.
In the south of the country, One & Only
have taken over Nyungwe Forest Lodge to
create Nyungwe House, which reopened
earlier in October.
South Africa
In the privately owned Tswalu
Kalahari Reserve in the Northern Cape,
Motse Lodge is undergoing a major
refurbishment and will be re-opening in
July 2019.
Within the Timbavati Private Nature
Reserve (bordering Kruger National
Park) Rockfig Safari Lodge is the newest
luxury addition and opened in November
2018. Accommodation is in six stylish,
stone and thatch suites and game drives
are for just four guests per shared vehicle.
Rob will be visiting in March.
With three private houses in the
Madikwe Game Reserve, The Morukuru
Family have now added a second private
beach house to their portfolio; Morukuru
Ocean House, in the De Hoop Nature
Reserve some three hours east of Cape
Town. The luxury four bedroomed,
exclusive-use property is perfect for
a relaxing coastal experience, hiking,
birding and whale-watching in season.
De Hoop is also a good place to try and
spot a caracal!
6 I Safari Telegraph I Januar y 2019
WHAT’S NEW FOR
Namibia
Namibia continues to boom
with the exciting development of two
new lodges in the remote north-west
of the country. Shipwreck Lodge in the
Skeleton Coast National Park offers
luxury accommodation in the harsh, but
stunning environment. You will have the
opportunity to visit the remnants of the
Suiderkus and the Karimona shipwrecks
and enjoy full day 4x4 drives exploring
the Hoarusib River as well as visit the seal
colony at Mowe Bay.
Inland from the Skeleton Coast in the
Hoanib Valley of Kaokoland is the new
Hoanib Valley Camp, from where you
can search for desert elephant, giraffe,
oryx, springbok and even lions in the
dramatic setting.
Both opened in mid-2018, with Michele
and Frances having just returned from
Hoanib Valley Camp, and Julia and Mary
scheduled to visit Shipwreck Lodge in
May next year.
Zimbabwe
The travel industry continues to
regenerate with several new camps and
lodges opening. African Bush Camps are
set to open Nyamatusi and Nyamatusi
Mahogany in early 2019, located close
together on the Mana Pools shoreline,
whilst on the eastern edge of the park,
Wilderness Safaris have re-opened the
re-built Chikwenya Camp. All three
camps will bring a little extra luxury to
this fantastic wildlife area. Further east,
bordering Mana Pools, the Sapi Wildlife
Area (previously a hunting concession)
has come under Great Plains stewardship
and they have launched their exclusive
Greater Mana Expeditions, a 7 night
safari combining three different camps.
Rob and Michele will be experiencing
these new products in 2019. Main picture: Eland in Mana Pools
Above from left: Mountain gorilla, desert
elephants, walking with Deb Tittle, wild dogs

Zambia
For old-school wilderness and
walking experiences, matched with
expert guiding, Zambia has some superb
new offerings. Deb Tittle, one of South
Luangwa’s most experienced guides, has
established Mapazi Camp in the remote
north-east corner of the park. Deb offers
a bespoke safari with walks tailored
to the ability and interests of each
individual party.
In the Lower Zambezi National Park,
Tusk and Mane Safaris is owner-run
and operated by professional guides
Luke Evans and Kyle Branch. They offer
a mobile camping experience with the
emphasis on walking and canoeing as
much as driving. Mary visited in October
and we are excited to have this option in
the Lower Zambezi.
What’s New
Botswana
In the Khwai Private Reserve,
bordering the Okavango Delta, Pangolin
Khwai Camp is owned and run by specialist
photographic safari company Pangolin
Safaris. The lodge has seven spacious tented
rooms and there are specially designed
photo vehicles, an editing suite with plenty
of charging points and a large screen for
presentations/workshops. Although the
camp is designed with photographers in
mind, non-photographers are also welcome
and well-catered for. Rob stayed in
November and had a great time following
the local wild dog pack!
In Chobe National Park, Pangolin Safaris
also opened Pangolin Lodge in 2018, which
Joe visited in June. This is a great option
for keen photographers visiting the Chobe
River region.
Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com I 7
East Africa Plains

EAST AFRICA’S
PLAINS MASAI MARA & SERENGETI
The greatest wildlife show on earth

W
hen describing Africa’s
most iconic landscape
and best game viewing
region, it is hard to know
just where to start. Straddling south-
west Kenya and northern Tanzania, the
open savanna plains of East Africa are
simply a marvel to behold. Covering a
vast 30,000 square kilometres or so, the
endless plains are home to 1.5 million
migrating wildebeest, vast herds of
gazelle and zebra and a high density
of big cats – lion, leopard and cheetah.
Almost all strains of African wildlife
are found here, from wallowing hippo
and hungry crocs in the Mara River,
to stately giraffe wandering the plains
and secretive black rhino hiding in the
thickets. At night the nocturnal species
come out, from caracals and servals to
aardvark and aardwolf. The scenery is
magical, with huge vistas of golden grass
interspersed with rocky kopjes, rolling
hills, riverine woodland and thickets.
In Kenya, the Masai Mara offers the
most concentrated game viewing in
Africa. Made up of two adjoining public
reserves (the Masai Mara National
Reserve and the Mara Triangle) which
border Tanzania to the south, and a
series of private conservancies to the
north and east of the reserve (principally
Mara North, Olare Motorogi and
Naboisho), the Masai Mara offers
incredible game viewing wherever
you stay and whenever you visit. The
private conservancies are without doubt
preferable if you enjoy an exclusive
game viewing experience, and it is in
these regions you can also enjoy a more
varied experience with night drives,
walking safaris and village excursions
all possible. However, to experience
one of the greatest wildlife highlights
on this planet, you need to venture into
the official Mara Reserve where the
Mara River bisects the open plains and
creates a croc-filled obstacle for tens of
thousands of wildebeest who cross the
river to find fresh grazing. Where the
banks are steep and the waters strong, a
‘crossing’ can be an extremely dramatic
event, and large crossings can take place
over several hours. As the herds run
the gauntlet, often in seemingly blind
panic, the predators lie in wait, not just
crocs in the water but lion and leopard
on the banks too, hoping to strike
during the chaos.
River crossings can also be viewed in
Tanzania’s Serengeti, as the Mara River
snakes its way south-west across the
northern section of the park
(there are more than 10
identified crossing points
along this section of the river).
The Serengeti is far larger than the
Masai Mara and stretches to the
west and south to form a safari
park the size of Wales. Bordering
the Serengeti are the Grumeti Reserves,
Maswa, Mwiba and Loliondo game areas
(a mixture of community, conservation and
hunting areas), whilst to the south-east
is the huge Ngorongoro Conservation
Area which is home to the stunning
Ngorongoro Crater.
The famous migration, which includes
gazelles, zebra and wildebeest, is a
continual cycle driven by the desire to
find fresh grazing and water. Between
December and April the herds congregate
on the southern Serengeti plains where
the grasses are short and the plains wide
open. At this time of year water is plentiful
after the short rains, and the plains are
“Lion dominate the perfect place for the animals to calve,
the plains, which usually takes place in early February.
From May onwards the long rains promise
while leopards fresh grazing to the west and north, where
move stealthily permanent water can also sustain the herds
through the through the long dry season ahead. Moving
first west into the area known as the
riverine Western Corridor, and then northwards up
woodland” through the Serengeti, the migration herds

8 I Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com


follow ancient routes and usually enter
Kenya’s Masai Mara in July. With the
Mara River and her tributaries to sustain
them, the herds remain in the northern
Serengeti and Masai Mara throughout
the dry season, until late October when
they are lured back south by the short
November rains and the promise of the
succulent green grass plains.
Given the amount of prey on show, it
is no surprise that the Mara/Serengeti
ecosystem is a top spot for viewing the
predators of Africa. Lion dominate the
plains, while leopards move stealthily
through the riverine woodland. Spotted
hyaena are so numerous in places that
you can only wonder at their success and
worry about the effect it could have on
other predators. Cheetah thrive in the
open landscape where smaller prey such
as Thomson’s gazelles are plentiful – they
just need to avoid the lion and hyaena
that plague their existence. Up until the
early 1990’s wild dogs were common
across the East African plains, but soon
after they were almost totally wiped out
by distemper and ‘pest control’. Today
however it is great to hear regular reports
of wild dogs being seen, predominantly
around the fringes of both the Masai
Mara and the Serengeti.
One cannot talk about the Masai Mara
and Serengeti without mentioning the
charismatic Maasai people who inhabit
the land as pastoralists with their cattle
and goats. It is almost impossible to
safari in East Africa without seeing the
splendid red colours of the traditional
East Africa Plains
Maasai ‘shukas’ – in fact your guide is
quite likely to be wearing one. Whilst
the official parks are sanctuaries for the
wildlife alone, the various conservancies
and community areas that border the
parks are home to the Maasai (usually
the land is owned by them) and in
these areas wildlife and humans live
together. Perhaps not always in total
harmony, but on balance with a huge
degree of mutual respect. In the private
conservancies bordering the Masai Mara
it is easy to arrange a village visit and it
is not uncommon to see Maasai children
tending their goats and cows around the
fringes of the conservancies (which at
certain times of year operate rotational
grazing). To the south of the Serengeti
it is also possible to encounter the
lesser known Hadzabe, one of the last
remaining genuine hunter-gather tribes
in Africa. A morning spent walking with
them as they forage for food is an eye-
opening experience.
Many safari travellers head to the
Masai Mara or Serengeti for a short and
intensive game viewing experience.
Much of the time they can avoid the
crowds and enjoy a degree of exclusivity,
though in some areas it is difficult to do
this. We believe that the Masai Mara
and Serengeti are so good that it is easily
possible to visit two or three different
camps and regions in one trip, possibly
including ‘out of season’ areas which you
will have virtually to yourself. It is also
possible to combine both the Masai Mara
and Serengeti in one trip that covers quite
diverse sections of this epic eco-system.
Main picture:
Masai Mara
Above clockwise
from top left:
Leopard in a tree,
cheetah, Hadzabe
hunter-gatherer,
lionesses,
wildebeest crossing
Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com I 9
Nocturnal Species
‘I see eyes’ said the lady behind me as our vehicle
slowed to a halt and our guide purposefully switched
off his spotlight for a moment before re-engaging with
the small animal sitting in the grass about 75 metres
to our right. ‘It looks like a serval’, the guide said, ‘can
you see through your binoculars?’ Through binoculars
the face and distinctive ears of the serval were clearly
visible, staring back at us. Seemingly relaxed, the
beautiful small cat resumed hunting and we watched
fascinated as it carefully and silently stalked a rodent
in the long grass and eventually pounced. About 15
minutes earlier we had been incredibly lucky and seen a
very shy caracal, another small but beautiful cat, which
had been sitting in the middle of the track ahead of us
optimistically watching some impala grazing nearby.
Night drives in Africa are not always action packed, and
as with all game viewing there is a strong element of
luck, but they do often throw up something different or
exciting. Leopards are often seen at night, occasionally
stalking game or eating from a fresh carcass, whilst
lions and spotted hyaena are also nocturnally active.
However, there is a much wider array of interesting
nocturnal animals which are difficult species to see on
safari, so here is run down on where you have the best
chances of finding them.
10 I Safari Telegraph I Januar y 2019
Serval
Serval are beautiful spotted cats with long legs and large ears, and
thankfully, are much easier to find than caracal! They love grassland areas,
especially around the fringes of waterways. For daylight viewings, the
Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti in Tanzania, the Masai Mara in Kenya
and the Nyika Plateau in Malawi all offer superb chances. For nocturnal
sightings, Botswana’s Okavango Delta and Linyanti region are hard to
beat. However, they can be found in most wildlife areas across East and
Southern Africa.
Aardvark
Though widespread, the aardvark is a naturally shy
creature that often emerges late at night to feed on
ants and termites. Whilst you could get lucky almost
anywhere, over the years a few areas have emerged
where chances are higher, such as the Lower Zambezi
in Zambia (especially from Old Mondoro Camp – 43
sightings this season, one every 5 days on average) and
the Makgadikgadi Pans region in Botswana. However
for the best chances, visit the Samara Reserve in the
Karoo Desert of South Africa, or the Tswalu Kalahari
Reserve in the Northern Cape of South Africa. In winter
time at Tswalu it is even possible to see aardvark
foraging in the late afternoon.
Caracal
Though very rare to see, caracal are a successful and
widespread cat that exist throughout Africa and can
be seen by day as well as by night. Grassland areas
such as Kenya’s Masai Mara, Tanzania’s Serengeti
and Botswana’s Kalahari, Okavango and Linyanti all
offer a fair chance. Joe in the office is the ‘our’ caracal
king having seen two on his recent trips to Africa - in
Amboseli (Kenya) and Ruaha (Tanzania)! However
South Africa is probably the destination where sightings
are most regular, especially in a few specific areas such
as De Hoop Nature Reserve on the south coast, West
Coast National Park in the Western Cape, the private
game reserves of the Eastern Cape and the Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park in the Kalahari Desert of the
Northern Cape.
 Nocturnal Species

Civet
Civet (cover shot) tend to favour woodland and thickets where there
is also easy access to water. They are omnivorous, feeding on rodents,
reptiles, insects, berries and fruits, and being active early in the evening
they are quite frequently encountered on night drives. Whilst widespread
across Africa, some of the best places to see them include South Africa’s
private reserves (especially bordering the Kruger), Zimbabwe’s Hwange
and Mana Pools, and Zambia’s South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi.

Brown Hyaena
Brown hyaena exist across southern Africa and seem most at home in
arid regions such as Namibia’s Skeleton Coast and Botswana’s Kalahari
Desert. Along the Skeleton Coast they can be seen on foggy mornings
scavenging around seal colonies, whilst in the Kalahari the best place
to see them is around Makgadikgadi Pans. Other good places include
Erindi in Namibia and Madikwe in South Africa. Somewhat surprisingly,
a brown hyaena den in the Kwando Concession of northern Botswana
has recently been providing wonderful sightings of the pups, though the
mother is rarely seen!

Honey Badger
Honey badgers are widespread and have adapted to
most habitats, though they tend to be seen mostly across
Southern Africa. Whilst predominantly nocturnal, they
can also be seen during the day, especially in Botswana’s
Central Kalahari where they forage around the edges of
the open vlei areas. The main safari regions of Zambia,
Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa all offer fair
chances of spotting them.

Aardwolf
Aardwolf are also widespread but quite rare to see.
Looking similar to a hyaena, but lighter in build and
colouration, aardwolf tend to prefer grassland areas
such as the Mara/Serengeti ecosystem in East Africa, or
more sandy-soil habitats such as the Kalahari regions
of northern South Africa and Botswana (including the
Okavango and Linyanti areas), and the Karoo Desert
regions of southern South Africa.

Pangolin
The elusive pangolin, one of the hardest animals to see and quite frankly, impossible to predict!
Safari Consultants guests have recently spotted them in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi, Zimbabwe’s
Hwange and Kenya’s Masai Mara, but the only place to throw up remotely regular sightings is
the Tswalu Kalahari Reserve in South Africa.

Zorilla
Also known as a striped polecat, and associated with skunks due to their size, shape, colour
and ability to emit a defensive spray, the zorilla is one of Africa’s most secretive creatures and
incredibly rare to see. This small, nocturnal carnivore lives a solitary life and is found across
East and Southern Africa, but it is impossible to predict where one may pop up!

Black-footed Cat
The black-footed cat is Africa’s smallest cat and is the hardest of all to see. They are found
across the arid regions of Botswana, Namibia and South Africa, predominantly inhabiting the
Kalahari and Karoo Desert regions. Nocturnal and solitary, they enjoy grassland areas and
feed predominantly on rodents. They are known to be fierce for their size having to defend
themselves against other desert predators such as jackals and foxes.

Other Species
Other nocturnal species that can be encountered across East and Southern Africa include
porcupine, white-tailed mongoose, genet, scrub hare, spring hare, bushbaby, African wild cat,
bat-eared fox, Cape fox, striped hyaena and various owls and owlets, including Giant Eagle,
Pel’s, Spotted Eagle and Scops.

Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com I 11

Our Travels
THE TEAM REPORT BACK FROM THEIR AFRICAN ADVENTURES
This year at Safari Consultants has brought
me a real variety of experiences and started
with a week in Mauritius!
It’s a beautiful tropical island and the pink
skies of the sunsets, the early morning swims
in the warm inviting water and the palm
trees swaying in the gentle breeze were only
made better by the amazing service at the
various properties.
My travels started in South Africa in
April/May. After visiting the coastal town
of Hermanus and the Cape Winelands, I
was joined by Julia and we set off eastwards
through the Little Karoo and along the
famous Garden Route before finishing in the
game reserves of the Eastern Cape. It was
a very busy trip, seeing 75 properties in 13
nights, but very worthwhile exploring the
different areas in depth.
In June I then departed for Botswana, via
Victoria Falls where I visited properties in
Zambia and Zimbabwe and had time to
enjoy a brisk walk around the Falls, getting
drenched on my way! I continued to Botswana,
an incredible country offering winding
waterways, beautiful scenery, fantastic
exclusivity and exciting game viewing. The
diversity of the trip was incredible too, with
each concession and game viewing area
offering contrasting landscapes, activities
and wildlife sightings. I travelled in shoulder
season and was treated to some excellent game
viewing, in addition to enjoying the Okavango
Delta in full flood, illustrating the value of
travelling at this time of year.
12 I Safari Telegraph I Januar y 2019
In May I set off to South Africa with my
overexcited Dad. We hired a car and spent
ten days driving round northern South Africa
visiting the Waterberg region, the northern
Kruger and the Tuli Block in Botswana. Dad got
to see his first leopard at Mashatu and I adored
our walking safari in the Pafuri region of South
Africa – approaching elephant, buffalo and
hyaena on foot.
As this newsletter goes to print, I have just
returned from an epic self-drive trip around
Namibia, from the towering dunes of the
Namib Desert to the incredible wilderness of
Kaokoland and shimmering expanse of Etosha
Pan. Just amazing!
One of my highlights was spending a couple of
nights wild camping up in the Hoarusib River
Valley in Kaokoland with Caesar Zandberg
from Kunene Safaris. The landscape was breath-
taking, remote and constantly changing, the
camping was very comfortable with a little edge
of excitement with news of desert lions nearby,
and Caesar’s guiding was brilliant – such a
memorable experience.
Later in the year I explored southern Tanzania.
The Selous Game Reserve offered good general
game viewing and amazing birding on the
fantastic waterways of the Rufiji River and the
five lakes in the reserve. I then headed further
west to the Ruaha National Park – an awesome
park which offered wonderful big game as
well as a raw wilderness experience. Dotted
with doum palms and vast baobab forests, the
landscape is spectacular and with 579 bird
species, it is a birders paradise too!
In April Joe and I went to South Africa
and drove east from Cape Town along
the famous R62 scenic route, over the
Swartberg Pass and down the Garden
Route, ending with an Eastern
Cape safari.
There were scenic mountain passes with
incredible rock formations contrasting
with the vast open desert of the Little
Karoo and the lush forests, rugged
heads and long white beaches of the
Garden Route. On safari, we experienced
wonderful up-close game viewing.
My next trip in June was to Zambia,
where I explored the stunning Lower
Zambezi National Park by vehicle, boat,
canoe and on foot. I love having a variety
of activities on offer on safari as each type
of experience helps you appreciate the
bush and landscapes in a different way.
In South Luangwa we came across lion
whilst walking and my game drives were
rewarded with wild dogs, leopard and my
first Pel’s fishing owl!
In October I was back in northern
Tanzania, revisiting Tarangire and the
Serengeti. Tarangire is such a beautiful
park with ancient baobab trees dotting
the landscape and plenty of game,
particularly huge herds of elephant. In
the northern Serengeti I was VERY lucky
to see the wildebeest migration herds
and two river crossings! It has been a
fantastic year!

“Walking with the bushmen
in the arid Central Kalahari,
exploring the crystal waterways
of the Okavango Delta and being
one of only two vehicles present
when tiny wild dog puppies
emerged from their den
for the first time...”
My first trip of 2018 took me back to
northern Tanzania where I travelled
through Tarangire National Park, the
Ngorongoro Highlands and on to the
southern plains of the Serengeti. The
landscapes were breathtaking and the
density of game was impressive but it was
the chance to get out of the vehicle and
walk that really enhanced the trip. The
early morning climb up to the Ol Moti
crater was particularly enjoyable, even if
it left me a bit breathless!
In late May I travelled to Botswana and
was once again blown away by the sheer
diversity of landscapes and activities.
Walking with the bushmen in the arid
Central Kalahari, exploring the crystal
waterways of the Okavango Delta and
being one of only two vehicles present
when tiny wild dog puppies emerged
from their den for the first time were
all highlights.
In October I spent four days visiting some
new lodges and some old favourites close
to Victoria Falls, in both Zimbabwe and
Zambia, before heading to Zambia’s Lower
Zambezi and Kafue National Parks. In
both parks I was able to enjoy some ‘old
school’ style safari staying in owner run
and guided mobile camps in remote areas,
where the quality of game viewing and
guiding was equally matched by the warm
and personal welcome.
Our Travels
My first trip of the year in late March was
with my family to Kenya and Seychelles. The
Masai Mara in Kenya was beautiful and green
after early rains, and finding Fig the leopard
was a real highlight, as was the hospitality at
the Kicheche camps.
The Seychelles were as spectacular, and as hot,
as ever. Staying on Praslin, Silhouette and Mahé
Islands we enjoyed exploring by catamaran,
on foot and by bicycle, whilst my boys were
introduced to snorkelling, scuba diving and
deep-sea fishing. Such a brilliant combination of
adventure and relaxation for families! The year ended with 9 nights exploring new
areas in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. The
In May I visited the Western Cape region of Okavango is a very special wilderness destination
South Africa, attending a specialist travel show and it is always a pleasure to return, though
in Cape Town before exploring the West Coast, this trip was made even more memorable by the
Winelands, De Hoop Coastal Reserve and inclusion of a couple of wonderful helicopter
Hermanus on a whirlwind tour. Despite the transfers. An early morning low-level flight up
limited water supply at the time, the hospitality the stunning Gomoti River is an experience I
was superb. shall never forget.
The highlight of my safari travels this
year must be the Offbeat hospitality in
Kenya. From our greeting at the airstrip
to a tearful farewell 100 miles later, having
ridden on horseback across the Masai
Mara, everyone put in 120% effort. The
horses were fit, enthusiastic and beautifully
turned out. Tristan, who pioneered these trips
two decades ago, would have been proud of
his crew, who moved the camp between four
contrasting locations. The first was magical,
Olare Lamun (rhino salt lick) in a grove of
Acacia trees. Next, overlooking a bend in
the Olare Orok River, then high-up on the
escarpment looking out over the plains, and
finally right on the banks of the Mara River
itself. Each day got better and better, just as
each and every safari should.
This time last year Frances and I were in And very recently Frances and I have just returned
South Africa self-driving the KwaZulu Natal from a wonderful, but hot, two week self-drive
region. From snow-capped Drakensberg around Namibia, where we visited the key
Mountains to chilling Zululand Battlefields, highlights of the country as well as undertaking
big game reserves and remote beaches, the some wild camping in the remote northern region
diversity is fantastic. of the country. To describe Namibia as scenically
stunning is an understatement.
In March I returned to Uganda, a destination
which blew me away several years ago and did
not disappoint again. The gorillas are without
doubt a highlight, and nothing beats that
exhilarating feeling of seeing a gorilla in the
wild. However, the country has so much more
to offer with exceptional birdlife throughout
and good wildlife opportunities in Queen
Elizabeth National Park and Murchison Falls.
Northern Tanzania was my next stop in July.
I covered the Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire
and northern Serengeti. Game viewing was
superb even though I did not get to see a
wildebeest crossing!
Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com I 13
Malaria-Free South Africa
MALARIA-FREE
W
orried about malaria or thinking
of taking the kids on an African
safari? Over the last 30 years
or so, the malaria-free reserves
in South Africa have really developed into
excellent safari areas. Purists might argue that
they are fenced and too managed, but for seeing
the wide range of wonderful African animals,
that’s the real plus.
Two major non-malarial regions are located in
the northern part of the country, within easy
reach of Johannesburg. The Madikwe Game
Reserve lies on the border with Botswana and
covers a huge area – about 75,000 hectares of
fenced bushveld. The reserve, started in the early
1990s out of vast cattle ranches, contains more
than 60 species of mammal and over 300 species
of birds. There is a wide range of accommodation
to choose from, including family friendly lodges
and exclusive honeymoon retreats.
The Waterberg Mountains, just three hour’s
drive north of Johannesburg, are a designated
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and cover an
area almost twice the size of Madikwe. Unlike
Madikwe, it’s a loose association of private
game reserves, the largest of which is the Big 5
Welgevonden Game Reserve. Most of the other
smaller reserves don’t boast Big 5 game viewing
but offer instead wonderful opportunities to get
out of a vehicle, exploring on foot or horseback,
mountain biking, river swimming, fishing and
camping out under the stars. These slightly
14 I Safari Telegraph I Januar y 2019
softer safari experiences are ideal for families
with younger children and include a bit more
cultural exposure too, from the ancient rock art
of the San people to the village life of today.
A further selection of private reserves, and the
Addo Elephant National Park, can be found
within the Eastern Cape, in the southern reaches
of the country. These malaria-free areas are very
accessible to those contemplating a visit to Cape
Town, the wine country and the Garden Route.
The oldest of these reserves is the well-known
Shamwari Game Reserve, though our first choice
is the impressive Kwandwe Game Reserve.
Kwandwe covers an area of around 22,000
hectares along the Great Fish River and, to our
mind, offers the best safari experience in the
region. The reserve offers luxury accommodation and look for aardvark by night, whilst just three
in two small lodges and three, even smaller hours’ drive from Cape Town is Sanbona, a huge
villas/homesteads which can be booked reserve along the Warmwaterberg mountains.
exclusively – the perfect way to introduce Africa Sanbona is still evolving, but will give you
to your family and friends. upwards of 20 species and accommodation is
extremely comfortable.
Alternative properties in the Eastern Cape,
such as Pumba, Lalibela and Kariega, offer more In the Kalahari wilderness of the Northern Cape,
affordable options while still giving you a great the excellent Tswalu Kalahari Game Reserve
opportunity to see the major African species offers one of the most exclusive safaris in Africa.
including lion, black and white rhino, elephant, Spanning over 1,000 square kilometres on the
buffalo and a wide range of antelope. edge of the vast Kalahari, the reserve is home
to a wide range of species (notable exceptions
The Karoo Desert is home to Samara Game include elephant, hippo and buffalo) and is
Reserve on the edge of the Camdeboo perhaps the best area to offer regular sightings of
Mountains, a good place to track cheetah on foot aardvark, pangolin and the diminutive meerkats.

F
or most people the Seychelles
archipelago represents the epitome
of tropical relaxation. Located just
south of the equator in the heart of
the Indian Ocean, the 115 islands that make
up the Seychelles offer an endless variety
of beautiful, sandy, palm-fringed beaches
sloping gently down to clear, turquoise
waters. These islands therefore offer a
perfect paradise and are the ideal place
to relax and unwind, especially after a
dusty safari.
All this is true, but with 42.1% of its
territory given over to conservation (8th
highest proportion worldwide – UK are
24th), the Seychelles are much more than
just an exclusive beach destination.
The first thing that the Seychelles are
known for in wildlife terms is bird-
watching. Over 270 species of birds have
been recorded, which is a staggering
amount given the limited land mass of the
archipelago. Some are rare and protected,
such as the Black Parrot (their national
bird) or the Seychelles White-eye, whilst
others gather in vast numbers to breed,
such as Sooty Terns on the aptly named
Bird Island. Frigate birds soar high over the
ocean, using their 2 metre wing-span to
stay aloft for weeks at a time, whilst white-
tailed tropic birds glide majestically over
the verdant forests. It is therefore entirely
possible to visit the Seychelles purely
for a birding holiday, though of course
it helps if you enjoy the paradise setting
and are happy to do a little relaxing too!
Keen birders should consider visits to the
protected Cousin and Aride islands, and be
sure to spend some time on Mahé Island
with renowned guide Perley Constance.
The Seychelles are also home to giant land
tortoises – slow, graceful movers that easily
outlive their human counterparts – some
have been estimated at over 150 years old.
The tortoises are widespread throughout
the islands and are a particular delight
to children. Numerous beaches in the
Seychelles are also preferred nesting sites
for Hawksbill and Green turtles, who drag
themselves up the beaches to lay their
eggs, between September and January for
Hawksbill and from January onwards for
Green. Hatching takes places two months
later, when the baby turtles run the
gauntlet down to the water.
Seychelles
But it is perhaps in the ocean where
the Seychelles ‘safari’ is most amazing.
Whether snorkelling, scuba diving or
fishing, the waters around the Seychelles
are full of life, from colourful parrot and
trumpet fish to moray eels, turtles, rays,
sharks and dolphins. Some of the best
scuba diving is found around the outer
atolls of Denis, Desroches and Alphonse,
where the sea bed plunges away into
the depths. Watching a majestic eagle
ray circle gracefully in the crystal clear
water is a special experience comparable
to most big game sightings in Africa,
as is floating through huge schools of
colourful reef fish or watching a pod of
dolphins cavort effortlessly around you.
Sharks are the apex predators of the
ocean, and many can be seen in the
shallow waters around the islands –
primarily white tip, silver tip, grey reef
and nurse. Further out to sea dolphin,
sailfish and marlin cruise the open
waters in search of food, whilst if you
are lucky you may catch a glimpse
of a gentle whale shark or a gigantic
humpback whale breaching in the
morning light.
Main picture: Idyllic white sand beach
Below from left: Giant land tortoise,
white (fairy) terns, orbicular batfish
Januar y 2019 I safar i-consultants.com I 15
There is seldom a dull moment
on safari but for those with
a little more patience, using
some of the amazing wildlife
hides or photoboats can
produce some of the most
memorable experiences anyone
can have, whether you’re a
photographer or not.

Find your next hide safari

experience in Mashatu,
Madikwe, Chobe (including
specialist photoboats),
Hwange, South Luangwa,
Zimanga, Chyulu Hills,
Samburu, or the Masai Mara.

Main picture:
Interested in a photographic Elephants in Savuti
workshop in Africa? Have a look at: Above clockwise
from left:
www.richardcostin.com Curious hyaena,
shooting from
www.naturesphotos.co.uk water level,
www.photographersonsafari.com seasonal hide,
photoboat, golden
www.howephotography.co.uk breasted bunting

SAFARI CONSULTANTS LIMITED

Africa House, 2 Cornard Mills, Mill Tye, Great Cornard, Suffolk CO10 0GW
tel: 01787 888590 email: info@safari-consultants.com
web: www.safari-consultants.com