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IS : 11 - 1987

(Reaffirmed 1997)
Edition 3.2
(1993-03)
Indian Standard
GRADING OF
WOOL FOR EXPORT
( Second Revision )
(Incorporating Amendment Nos. 1 & 2)

UDC 677.31 : 677.027.81 : 382.6

© BIS 2003

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS


MANAK BHAVAN , 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002

Price Group 3
IS : 11 - 1987

Indian Standard
GRADING OF
WOOL FOR EXPORT
( Second Revision )
Wool and Wool Products Sectional Committee, TDC 4
Chairman Representing
SHRI UPENDRA M. PATEL Shri Dinesh Mills Ltd, Vadodara
Members
SHRI J. V. S. S. ANJANEYULU Textiles Committee, Bombay
SHRI P. K. MONDAL ( Alternate )
SHRI A. T. BASAK Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals
SHRI D. K. NANDY ( Alternate ) (Inspection Wing), New Delhi
SHRI G. N. CHATTERJEE Ministry of Defence (R & D)
SHRI S. N. HALDAR ( Alternate )
DR S. K. CHAUDHURI International Wool Secretariat, Bombay
SHRI A. BARMAN ROY ( Alternate )
SHRIMATI ANITA CHAUDHARY Directorate of Marketing & Inspection, Faridabad
DR G. GOPALA RAO ( Alternate )
SHRI A. N. CHOUDHARY Jaya Shree Textiles, Rishra
SHRI K. GOPINATH ( Alternate )
DIRECTOR Wool Research Association, Thane
SHRIMATI G. P. RANE ( Alternate )
LT-COL A. N. GOSWAMI Ministry of Defence (DGI)
DR R. K. SAXENA ( Alternate )
SHRI N. GOSWAMI Directorate of Industries, Government of Haryana,
Chandigarh
SHRI J. S. GREWAL Directorate of Industries, Government of Punjab,
SHRI R. C. VASUDEVA ( Alternate ) Chandigarh
SHRI N. P. GUPTA Central Sheep & Wool Research Institute,
Avikanagar
SHRI THOMAS KOSHY Grasim Industries Ltd, Nagda
SHRI V. N. SRINIVASAN ( Alternate )
SHRI K. C. MEHRA VXL India Ltd (OCM Woollen Mills), Amritsar
SHRI S. MITRA British India Corporation Ltd, Kanpur
MAJ H. O. NANDA (RETD) E. Sefton & Co Pvt Ltd, Mirzapur
SHRIMATI NEENA RANJAN Wool & Woollens Export Promotion Council,
New Delhi
DR G. S. SINGH Raymond Woollen Mills Ltd, Thane
SHRI J. K. BANERJEE ( Alternate )
( Continued on page 2 )

© BIS 2003
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
This publication is protected under the Indian Copyright Act (XIV of 1957) and
reproduction in whole or in part by any means except with written permission of the
publisher shall be deemed to be an infringement of copyright under the said Act.
IS : 11 - 1987
( Continued from page 1 )
Members Representing
SHRI M. V. SIVANANDA Directorate of Industries, Government of Uttar
SHRI S. P. DHAUDIYAL ( Alternate ) Pradesh, Lucknow
DR T. V. K. SRIVASTAVA Office of the Textile Commissioner, Bombay
SHRI J. C. HANSDAK ( Alternate )
SHRI S. N. TOSHNIWAL Government of Rajasthan, Jaipur
SHRI R. I. MIDHA, Director General, BIS ( Ex-officio Member )
DIRECTOR (TEX)

Secretary
SHRI O. P. KHULLAR
Joint Director (Tex), BIS

Wool Subcommittee, TDC 4 : 1


Convener
AGRICULTURAL MARKETING ADVISER Directorate of Marketing and Inspection,
TO THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA Faridabad
Members
SHRI S. C. AGARWAL VXL India Limited (Digjam Woollen Mills),
SHRI R. S. GUPTA ( Alternate ) Jamnagar
SHRI JAYANTILAL K. ANJARIA Walker Anjaria & Sons Pvt Ltd, Bombay
SHRI KISHORE ANJARIA All India Wool Trade Federation, Bombay
SHRI P. T. BANERJEE Punjab Woolcombers Ltd, Ludhiana
SHRI A. T. BASAK Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals
(Inspection Wing), New Delhi
SHRI K. C. BOTHRA Bikaner Woollen Mills, Bikaner
DR S. K. CHAUDHURI International Wool Secretariat, Bombay
SHRI A. BARMAN ROY ( Alternate )
SHRI S. K. CHOPRA Central Sheep & Wool Research Institute,
Avikanagar
DIRECTOR Wool Research Association, Thane
SHRIMATI G. P. RANE ( Alternate )
SHRI B. K. GARG Directorate of Industries, Government of Punjab,
SHRI J. S. GREWAL ( Alternate ) Chandigarh
SHRI V. N. KAUL British India Corporation Ltd, Kanpur
SHRI K. C. MEHRA VXL India Ltd (OCM Woollen Mills), Amritsar
SHRI S. K. MUKHERJEE Woolcombers of India Ltd, Calcutta
SHRI DEEPAK RAJ NATH Raj Woollen Industries, Panipat
MAJ U. S. PAINTAL Ministry of Defence (DGI)
SHRI D. K. SRIVASTAVA ( Alternate )
SHRI M. V. SAPRE Government of Rajasthan, Jaipur
DR G. S. SINGH Raymond Woollen Mills Ltd, Thane
SHRI J. K. BANERJEE ( Alternate )
SHRI J. N. VOHRA Punjab State Hosiery and Knitwear Development
Corporation Ltd, Ludhiana

2
IS : 11 - 1987
Indian Standard
GRADING OF
WOOL FOR EXPORT
( Second Revision )
0. F O R E W O R D
0.1 This Indian Standard (Second Revision) was adopted by the
Bureau of Indian Standards on 6 July 1987, after the draft finalized by
the Wool and Wool Products Sectional Committee had been approved
by the Textile Division Council.
0.2 This standard has been revised to include the grading of scoured
wool, and to modify the requirements of yield and vegetable matter of
various grades on the basis of experience gained during the use of the
standard. Opportunity has also been taken to align this standard with
AGMARK specification on ‘Grading of wool for export’.
0.3 This edition 3.2 incorporates Amendment No. 1 (July 1990) and
Amendment No. 2 (March 1993). Amendment No. 1 is being issued to
delete the reference of Boxed Wool Fibre Colour Standards for
assessing the colour of the wool to be graded since these are not being
maintained by the Directorate of Marketing and Inspection, Ministry
of Agriculture, Government of India. Side bar indicates modification of
the text as the result of incorporation of the amendments.
0.4 For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this
standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated,
expressing the result of a test, shall be rounded off in accordance with
IS : 2-1960*. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off
value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.
1. SCOPE
1.1 This standard prescribes the requirements of different grade
designations (types) of raw wool intended for export.
2. TERMINOLOGY
2.0 For the purpose of this standard, the following definitions shall apply.
2.1 Clipped Wool — Wool obtained from the body of sheep by
shearing with a pair of hand shears or a shearing machine.
2.2 Pulled Wool — Wool removed from the pelts of slaughtered sheep
by pulling out the fibres with or without the aid of salt, depilatory
solutions, etc.
*Rules for rounding off numerical values ( revised ).

3
IS : 11 - 1987
2.3 Tannery Wool (Limed) — Wool removed from the pelts of
slaughtered sheep with the aid of slaked lime paste as a depilatory.
2.4 South Indian Tannery and Aden Type Wool — Wool removed
from the pelts of unimproved, muttonbreed sheep from southern states
of India and Aden*, by pulling out the fibres from skins which have
been pasted with or soaked in a depilatory solution of slaked lime.
2.5 Mixed Wool (Clipped-Carded) — Clipped wool with an
admixture of carded wool up to 25 percent.
2.6 Mixed Wool (Clipped-Pulled) — Clipped wool with an
admixture of pulled wool up to 25 percent.
2.7 Hill ( Pahari ) Wool (Clipped) — Clipped wool obtained from
the body of sheep from the hill districts in the Himalayan region.
2.8 Hill ( Pahari ) Wool (Pulled) — Pulled wool obtained from the
pelts of slaughtered sheep (in the same manner as in pulled wool) from
the hill districts in the Himalayan region.
2.9 Ginned Wool — Short wool fibres recovered from burrs (scissored
out from burry raw wool) by passing them through a ginning machine.
2.10 Carded Wool — Wool which has been subjected to the process of
carding for getting rid of burrs, sticks, etc.
2.11 Processed Wool — Wool which has been subjected to a
chemical or mechanical process of manufacture or pre-manufacture
except carding and ginning done for cleaning purposes.
2.12 Scoured Wool — Wool which has been subjected to mechanical
scouring with a detergent in a scouring plant.
2.13 Lot — The quantity of wool of one definite grade designation,
delivered to one buyer against one despatch note.
3. SAMPLING
3.1 Sample to determine the various characteristics of raw wool in a
lot shall be selected so as to be representative of the lot.
3.2 Sample drawn in compliance with an agreement between the
buyer and the seller to evaluate the various characteristics of raw wool
shall be held to be representative of the lot.
3.3 In case there is no agreed method of drawing a representative
sample, the sample to determine the various characteristics of raw
wool shall be drawn as detailed in 3.3.1 and 3.3.2.
*These skins are imported from Aden and wool is removed before the process of
tanning.

4
IS : 11 - 1987
3.3.1 Type and Colour — Sample to determine type and colour of wool
shall be drawn by taking 8 to 20 pickings, each about 500 g, from
different parts of the lot. The pickings so drawn shall be thoroughly
mixed to form uniform fibrous mass. This shall constitute the gross
sample. The gross sample shall be reduced in size by the process of
random halving till a final test sample of about 250 g is obtained. This
shall constitute the test specimen.
3.3.2 Yield and Vegetable Matter, Percent — Sample to determine yield
and vegetable matter, percent shall be drawn as prescribed in
IS : 1349-1964*.
4 GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
4.0 The wool of grade designation given in 4.1 to 4.9 shall be free from
bleached and processed wool, moth infested or burnt wool, wool waste
or any animal fibre other than that of sheep, and also free from
vegetable or synthetic fibre. This shall also be reasonably free from
burrs, thorns, sticks, sand, dust or any other extraneous matter. The
wool shall be dry in feel and homogeneous in character.
4.1 Clipped Wool — Shall be free from pulled, carded, ginned and
limed wool.
4.2 Pulled Wool — Shall be free from clipped, carded, ginned and
limed wool.
4.3 Tannery Wool (Limed) — Shall be free from pulled, clipped,
carded and ginned wool.
4.4 South Indian Tannery and Aden Type Wool — Shall be free
from clipped, pulled, carded and ginned wool.
4.5 Mixed Wool (Clipped-Carded) — Shall be free from pulled,
ginned and limed wool. This shall not contain an admixture of more
than 25 percent of carded wool.
4.6 Mixed Wool (Clipped-Pulled) — Shall be free from carded,
ginned and limed wool. This shall not contain an admixture of more
than 25 percent of pulled wool.
4.7 Hill ( Pahari ) Wool (Clipped) — Shall be free from ginned,
carded, pulled, limed and plains or clipped wool.
4.8 Hill ( Pahari ) Wool (Pulled) — Shall be free from ginned, limed
carded, plains, pulled or clipped wool.
4.9 Ginned Wool — Shall be free from carded, pulled and limed wool.

*Methods for determination of wool fibre content of raw wool ( revised ).

5
IS : 11 - 1987
4.10 Scoured Wool — Shall be free from animal fibre other than
sheep, and vegetable and synthetic fibres. The wool shall be dry in feel
and homogeneous in character.
5. SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS
5.1 Grade Designation — Wool of specified grade designation shall
conform to the applicable requirements prescribed in Tables 1 to 10.

TABLE 1 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN CLIPPED WOOL
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )

GRADE COLOUR YIELD


DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)

A Above 80
Clipped White B White Above 85
C Above 90
 A Above 77
 B Above 80
Clipped Tinged White  Tinged White
 C Above 85
 D Above 90
 A Above 74
Clipped Pale Yellow  B Pale Yellow Above 77

or  C or Above 80
Clipped Yellow  D Yellow Above 85

 E Above 90
A Above 70
Clipped Coloured B All Coloured Above 75
C Above 80

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IS : 11 - 1987

TABLE 2 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN PULLED WOOL
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )
GRADE COLOUR YIELD
DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)
A Above 80
Pulled White B White Above 85
C Above 90
 A Above 77
 B Above 80
Pulled Tinged White  C
Tinged White
Above 85

 D Above 90
 A Above 74
 B Above 77
Pulled Pale Yellow  C
Pale Yellow
Above 80

 D Above 85
Pulled Yellow A Yellow Above 90
A Above 70
Pulled Coloured B All Coloured Above 75
C Above 80
NOTE — Pulled wool does not include limed pulled wool.

TABLE 3 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN TANNERY WOOL (LIMED) OTHER THAN SOUTH INDIAN
TANNERY AND ADEN TYPE
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )
GRADE COLOUR YIELD
DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)
 A Above 75
 B Above 80
Limed White  C
White
Above 85

 D Above 90
Limed Tinged White  A Tinged White Above 72.5
or  B or Above 75

Limed Pale Yellow  C Pale Yellow Above 80
or  D or Above 85

Limed Yellow  E Yellow Above 90
 A Above 65
 B Above 70
Limed Coloured  C
All Coloured
Above 75

 D Above 80

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IS : 11 - 1987

TABLE 4 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


SOUTH INDIAN TANNERY AND ADEN TYPE WOOLS (LIMED)
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )

GRADE COLOUR YIELD


DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)
 A Above 60
 B Above 65

Tannery White  C White Above 70
 D Above 75

 E Above 80
 A Above 60
 B Above 65

Tannery Tinged White  C Tinged White Above 70
 D Above 75

 E Above 80
 A Above 60
 B Above 65

Tannery Pale Yellow  C Pale Yellow Above 70
 D Above 75

 E Above 80
 A Above 60
 B Above 65

Tannery Yellow  C Yellow Above 70
 D Above 75

 E Above 80
 A Above 55
 B Above 60
Tannery Coloured 
 C All Coloured Above 65
 D Above 70

 E Above 75
NOTE — South Indian tannery and Aden type wool shall be marked as ‘South Indian
tannery wool’ or ‘Aden type wool’ as the case may be.

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IS : 11 - 1987

TABLE 5 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN MIXED WOOL (CLIPPED-CARDED)
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )

GRADE COLOUR YIELD


DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)

Mixed (Clipped-carded) A Above 80


White B White Above 85
C Above 90
Mixed (Clipped-carded)  A Above 74

Tinged White
Tinged White or B Above 77
 or
Mixed (Clipped-carded)  C Above 80
 D Pale Yellow Above 85
Pale Yellow or 
 E or Above 90
Mixed (Clipped-carded)
Yellow
Yellow

Mixed (Clipped-carded) A Above 70


Coloured B All Coloured Above 75
C Above 80
NOTE — A lot containing more than 25 percent of carded wool shall be marked as
‘Carded’.

TABLE 6 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN MIXED WOOL (CLIPPED-PULLED)
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )

GRADE COLOUR YIELD


DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)

Mixed (Clipped-pulled) A Above 80


White B White Above 85
C Above 90
Mixed (Clipped-pulled)  A Tinged White Above 74
Tinged White or  B Above 77
 or
Mixed (Clipped-pulled)  C Above 80
Pale Yellow or  Pale Yellow
 D Above 85
Mixed (Clipped-pulled)  E or Above 90
Yellow Yellow

Mixed (Clipped-pulled) A Above 70


Coloured B All Coloured Above 75
C Above 80
NOTE 1 — Pulled wool excludes limed pulled wool.
NOTE 2 — A lot containing more than 25 percent of pulled wool shall be marked
‘Pulled’.

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IS : 11 - 1987

TABLE 7 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN HILL ( PAHARI ) WOOL (CLIPPED)
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )

GRADE COLOUR YIELD


DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)
 A Above 60
Hill White or  B White or Above 65
Hill Tinged White  C Tinged White Above 70

 D Above 75
 A Above 55
 B Above 60
Hill/Coloured  C
All Coloured
Above 65

 D Above 70

TABLE 8 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN HILL ( PAHARI ) WOOL (PULLED)
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )

GRADE COLOUR YIELD


DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)
Pulled Hill White  A Above 60
or  B White or Above 65
 C Tinged White Above 70
Pulled Hill Tinged 
White  D Above 75

 A Above 55
 B Above 60
Pulled Hill Coloured  C
All Coloured
Above 65

 D Above 70

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IS : 11 - 1987

TABLE 9 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN GINNED WOOL
( Clauses 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 )

GRADE COLOUR YIELD


DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)

A Above 80
Ginned White B White Above 85
C Above 90
 A Above 77
 B Above 80
Ginned Tinged White  C
Tinged White
Above 85

 D Above 90
 A Above 74
 B Above 77

Ginned Pale Yellow  C Pale Yellow Above 80
 D Above 85

 E Above 90
A Above 70
Ginned Coloured { B All Coloured Above 75
C Above 80

TABLE 10 GRADE DESIGNATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF


INDIAN SCOURED WOOL
( Clauses 5.1 and 5.2 )
GRADE COLOUR CORRECTED MASS,
DESIGNATION PERCENT
(1) (2) (3)
Scoured White White Above 95
Scoured Tinged White Tinged White Above 95
Scoured Pale Yellow Pale Yellow Above 95
Scoured Yellow Yellow Above 95
Scoured Coloured All Coloured Above 95
NOTE — The corrected mass of raw wool shall be obtained by adding 17 percent of its
oven dry mass.

5.2 Colour — The colour of wool of the various grade designations


prescribed in Tables 1 to 10 shall be in accordance with the applicable
requirements of the tables.

11
IS : 11 - 1987
5.2.1 If the colour of the test specimen is found to be deeper than pale
yellow, the colour of the fibre in the lot shall be taken to be yellow. If
the test specimen cannot be classified under any of the above colour
groups, it shall be taken to be all coloured.
5.2.2 The colour of the test specimen shall be determined visually or as
agreed to between the buyer and the seller.
5.3 Yield, Percent — The yield percent of wool of the various grade
designations prescribed in Tables 1 to 9 shall be in accordance with the
applicable requirements of the tables.
5.3.1 The yield percent of wool shall be determined on the basis of
scoured yield (including vegetable matter) by the method prescribed in
IS : 1349-1964*.
5.4 Vegetable Matter — The vegetable matter, present in wool of the
various grade designations prescribed in Tables 1 to 10, shall not be
more than 5.0 percent.
5.4.1 The vegetable matter percent of wool shall be determined on the
basis of scoured bone dry mass by the method prescribed in 7.4 and
7.5.2 of IS : 1349-1964*.
6 PACKING
6.1 The wool shall be press packed in bales in conformity with the
procedure laid down in IS : 2156-1962†.
7 MARKING
7.1 Each bale shall be attached with a label giving the following
information:
a) Serial number;
b) Place and date of packing;
c) Grade designation;
d) Colour;
e) Yield, percent;
f) Vegetable matter, percent; and
g) Net mass.

*Methods for determination of wool fibre content of raw wool ( revised ).


†Code for packing raw wool for export.

12
Bureau of Indian Standards
BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 to promote
harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of
goods and attending to connected matters in the country.
Copyright
BIS has the copyright of all its publications. No part of these publications may be reproduced in any
form without the prior permission in writing of BIS. This does not preclude the free use, in the course
of implementing the standard, of necessary details, such as symbols and sizes, type or grade
designations. Enquiries relating to copyright be addressed to the Director (Publications), BIS.
Review of Indian Standards
Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also
reviewed periodically; a standard along with amendments is reaffirmed when such review indicates
that no changes are needed; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for
revision. Users of Indian Standards should ascertain that they are in possession of the latest
amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of ‘BIS Catalogue’ and ‘Standards : Monthly
Additions’.
This Indian Standard has been developed by Technical Committee : TDC 4

Amendments Issued Since Publication


Amend No. Date of Issue
Amd. No. 1 July 1990
Amd. No. 2 March 1993

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS


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