Training & Development of Supervisors

Assignment 2

Quality Control Program for an

Apparel Manufacturing Unit

Submitted By:
Amrita Mitra
BFT/15/145
BFT-VI
Quality Control program for A.M Apparels
In textile and apparel industry, quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric
construction, color fastness, designs and the final finished garments.

Quality is very important in apparel business. Customers demand and expect is the supreme importance in
garment business because of clothing trends become change with short time period. There are various factors
on which quality fitness of apparel industry is based such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and
perceived quality of the garment.

Quality Control is “The planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that quality
requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled.”

The QC process is used to ensure that a product or services attain the required level, or higher, of quality. No
matter of what product or service the company provides some actions to control the quality is necessary.
Mostly the process involves a thorough examination and testing the product or the result of the service. The
underlying goal is to ensure that the examined and tested product or service reach the specific requirements.

In the apparel industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the
stage of final finished garment. Quality control in garment industry is very complex and lengthy task. There
are several stages to control quality in garment manufacturing. They are given below:

1. Pre-production quality control

2. Quality control during production
3. Final inspection
4. Quality control to developing a sampling plan
5. Post-production quality evaluation

Methodology:
At first all the data are collected from different reports and documents of different garment factories. When
these data become not sufficient, some other data are collected by close observation and over telephone. This
is a descriptive and analytical study. The sample size is 07 (seven). The collected data are processed with
MS Excel and all biased & incomplete data deleted from the data bank.

Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment manufacturing like sewing, colour, sizing, or
garment defects should never be over looked.

Sewing defects
Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non matching threads, missing stitches, improper creasing of the
garment, improper thread tension etc. are some of the sewing defects.

Colour defects
Variation of colour between the sample and the final garment, wrong colour combinations and mismatching
dyes.
Sizing defects
Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of various parts of a garment like sleeves of XL size
for body of L size garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.

Finished garment defects

Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches, different shades within the same garment, dropped stitches,
exposed notches, fabric defects, holes, faulty zippers, loose or hanging sewing threads, misaligned buttons
and holes, missing buttons, needle cuts, pulled or loose yarn, stains, unfinished buttonhole, short zippers,
inappropriate trimmings etc. all can lead to the end of a brand name even before its establishment.

Methods of quality control:

Basically two methods are used for garments quality control –

a) Testing b) Inspection.
Quality Control System is followed by all concerned in the company from piece goods inspection to the
final statistical audit.

(1) Piece goods quality control:

On receipt of fabrics in the ware house, at least 10% are inspection as per “4 Points” system/10 Points
system/2.5 Point system/6.0 Point system. The most commonly used 4 Points system as per below –

SIZE OF DEFECT PENALTY

3 Inches or less 1 Point

Over 3, under 6 Inches 2 Point

Over 6, under 9 Inches 3 Point

Over 9 Inches 4 Point

A maximum of 4 points are changed in one linear yard.

(2) Cutting quality control:

In cutting section quality is insure in two stages.

a) Spreading quality control:

Following the point are checked during spreading

I. Table marking.
II. Ends
III. Tension
IV. Leaning
V. Narrow Goods Counts
VI. Ply height
VII. Remnants
VIII. Fabric flaws
IX. Market placing
 b) After cutting quality control:

After each cutting blocks and bundles are checks on the following points.

I. Mis cut
II. Ragged cutting
III. Pattern checks
IV. Matching Plies
V. Notches

(3) In process quality control (Sewing):

During the swing “In process quality control” is done by the line QC’s through 7 pcs inspection
system. For critical operations 100% process inspection are carried out.
The following parameters are also checked in sewing process –
a) Machine check.
b) Tension.
c) SPI checks
d) Needle check.
e) Cleanness.
d) Table inspection.
f) Inspection before wash.

(4) Washing section

a) Garments handling
b) Wash standard.
c) After wash thoroughly inspection.

(5)Quality control of finishing sections:

Following inspection/audit is done to attain AQL (1.5/2.5/4.0 etc).

 Process inspection: Garments are checked process wise in the finishing section to identify defects and
pass only the passed garments.
 Two hourly audit: Every after two-hours audit is done on finishing lot to attain AQL the required AQL.
 Days final audit: At the end of the day accumulated lot of finished garments are statistically audited to
attain required AQL.
 Lot final audit: On completion of packing of one complete lot of garment, QA manager conduct
statistical audit based on required AQL garments. Garments are offered for final inspection by buyer
clients for shipment only when these are through in this audit.

The following parameters are also checked in sewing process –

 After wash garments must be keep in the box / table covering

 Thread sucking.
  Iron inspection.
 Measurements inspection.
 Poly inspection of top of garments.
 Inspection before cartoning.

(6)Testing (Lab test):

 Shrinkage test
 Colour fastness. Test
 Azo-free test.

A Quality Control system has the following design:

 Routines & Processes

 Identify Errors & Omissions
 Document, record & archives of all QC activities
QC activities include general methods such as accuracy checks on data acquisition and calculations and the
use of approved standardized procedures for emission calculations, measurements, estimating uncertainties,
archiving information and reporting. Higher QC activities include technical reviews of source categories,
activity and emission factor data, and methods.

Stages
Pre-production quality control
In pre-production quality control, each component of a garment is tested prior to assembling.
Closures, interlinings, sewing threads, and other design elements are tested for their quality and durability.
Fabric with too many defects or closures that do not work properly can be detected prior to construction,
which saves time and money in the long run. Fabric, accessories, closures, interlinings, sewing threads, and
other design elements are all tested prior to the garment manufacturing in the pre production quality
control phase.

Quality control to developing a sampling plan

Although quality has been incorporated into each product up to this point, products are selected for audits
and sorted into acceptable or unacceptable categories prior to shipment to their final destination. There are
many types of samples including random, representative, convenience, stratified, constant percentage, and
systematic samples. A random sample is where every item has an equal chance of being selected.

A representative sample includes a planned variation of items in a ratio that is appropriate. A convenience
sample is made up of items that are easier to inspect over others and not random. A stratified sample is
selecting a sample when a large lot of similar items exist. A constant percentage sample is sampling with a
known constant percentage regardless of lot size to determine the sampling size. A systematic sample
consists of items from equal intervals of time or the same location.
Types of sampling plans include lot-by-lot sampling, lot-by-lot sampling by attribute, skip-lot sampling,
continuous production sampling, and arbitrary sampling.

Post-production quality evaluation

Post-production quality evaluation in the apparel industry includes wear testing for realistic reactions to
everyday scenarios and testing with a simulation study when a consumer’s reliability is in question. In wear
testing, which is sometimes called product testing, the company provides a small group of consumers with
products. Consumers are contracted to wear garments under certain stated guidelines and requirements in
order to determine whether they meet the company’s intended performance criteria. Consumers report back
to the company and identify issues with the product before an entire production lot of garments are
produced.

Fabric quality:
Fabric quality is of utmost importance to the overall quality of apparel and textile products. Regardless of
how well a product is designed or constructed, if the fabric is of poor quality, the product will most likely to
fail with the consumer. Most fabric is comprised of fibers that are spun into yarns and then woven or knitted
into fabric. Support materials like interlinings usually go from the fiber to the fabric stage. Since fibres are
the building blocks of all apparel and textile products, it is important to start with quality fibers regardless if
they are natural, manufactured, regenerated, or synthetic. Fabric should keep the following properties.

 Comfort: Comfort is very important fabric property. It Comfort is studied by looking at fabric in
terms of elongation and elasticity, heat retention and conduction, moisture absorbency, water
repellency, waterproofing, hand and skin contact, drape, and air permeability.

 Colorfastness: Colorfastness relates to appearance retention and can be described as “how

consumersuse textile products and includes factors that may cause colorants to change color
or migrate from one material to another”. Colorfastness is studied by exposing the fabric to different
conditions including acids and alkalis, crocking, environmental conditions, frosting, heat, light,
perspiration, or water.

 Durability: Durability evaluates “how various materials used in a product perform when
subjected to different conditions”. Durability of a fabric is tested until it fails, and both warp and
weft yarns are tested. There are many ways to assess fabric durability, including strength (tensile,
tear, and bursting), abrasion, pilling, snagging, and dimensional stability.
Use of Quality Tool (Check List) for fabric quality checking

Fabric Check List:

Final Inspection-
o It is the last inspection done before the buyer inspection. All the buyer specifications are checked for-
o Form Fit checking
o Sewing- needle damages, sewing defects, assembly defects, quality of seam, placement of labels,
cleanliness , correct trims
o Measurements
o Final handfeel and look
o Packing and packaging
Final inspection can be conducted under the following conditions :
o The quantity in carton boxes must be at least up to 80% of the total shipped quantity.
o The sewing or assembly process must be finished for the balance quantity (20% of the total shipped
quantity).

Types of final inspection-

o No inspection
o 100%inspection-
o spot checking- inspection of random shipments. Some shipments are inspected while others are not
at all inspected
 o arbitrary sampling-a certain percentage of shipment is inspected and the accept or reject decision is
based on the inspection. A major drawback is that either too little or too much is inspected.
o statistical sampling-is a system based on the theory that a given amount of samples drawn at random
from the production lot will reflect the percent defective in the lot with certain tolerance limits for the
percent defectives and within certain limits of probability.

Statistical Quality Control

There are many methods and tools used to perform statistical quality control but famous is using seven tools.

 Flowchart

Flow chart one effective method for defining a process. Flow chart is a simple drawing of a process .It could
be said processing from start to finish the process in a system.

 Check sheet

Check sheet is a form, in which the items to be inspected has been printed on the form, with the intention
that can be collected easily and concisely.
Example of the use of a check sheet to determination of the frequently occurring defects and their frequency:

 Histogram

Histogram is one tool that helps to find variations, and histogram is one method to make a summary of the
data so that the data is analysed, which present the data graphically on how often elements in the process of
emerging.
 Scatter Diagram

Scatter diagram is a useful tool to clarify whether there is a relationship between two variables, and whether
the relationship is positive or negative.

 Control chart

Control chart is a tool in the form of process control charts to determine the upper control limit (upper limit
control) and lower control limit (lower limit control) process performance.

In the quality control of products, often used Quality Control Chart. With chart or a control chart can be
known immediately whether the quality of the goods being processed under or out of control.

Control chart or map control is a graphic comparison of data performance process (test results/observations
of the nature of the product), for calculating limit control which is described as a limit line on the map.

The main objective of Control Chart is to determine whether there uniformities that can be avoided in the
process.

 Pareto diagram

Charts Pareto are used to classify problems according to cause and symptoms . Problems were depicted by
priority or importance, using a bar graph format, where 100% indicates a total loss. The underlying principle
of this diagram is the '80 -20 rule 'which states that "80% of the trouble comes from 20% of the problems'.

 Fishbone Chart

Fishbone diagram (fishbone diagram - because it is shaped like a fish bone) is often called Cause-and-Effect
Diagram. This diagram was developed in 1950 by a Japanese quality expert, ie Kaoru Ishikawa and is one of
the seven basic quality tools (7 basic quality tools). Fishbone diagrams are used to identify and analyse a
process or situation and find possible causes of an issue / problem that occurred.

Procedure
The steps in the procedure to prepare a cause-and-effect diagram are :

 Agree on the definition of the 'Effect' for which causes are to be found. Place the effect in the dark box
at the right. Draw the spine or the backbone as a dark line leading to the box for the effect.
  Determine the main groups or categories of causes. Place them in boxes and connect them through
large bones to the backbone.
 Brainstorm to find possible causes and subsidiary causes under each of the main groups. Make sure
that the route from the cause to the effect is correctly depicted. The path must start from a root cause
and end in the effect.
 After completing all the main groups, brainstorm for more causes that may have escaped earlier.
 Once the diagram is complete, discuss relative importance of the causes. Short list the important root
causes.

In essence this diagram can be used for the needs of the following:

- Helps identify the root cause of a problem.

- Helps generate ideas for solutions to problems

- Assist in the investigation or fact-finding further.

Fault Analysis Card or Chart

Once the faults have been collected they should be written down and recorded on a fault analysis card or chart. These
are also known as FACERAP cards.

FACERAP is a mnemonic for Fault, Appearance, Cause, Effect, Responsibility, Action, And
Prevention.
The information is recorded under the following headings to facilitate teaching: -

 Fault - Correct name/agreed name. So that trainees can report to the

Instructor/Supervisor/Mechanics).

 Appearance - Clear description or an example attached. Trainee cannot take remedial action unless
he can recognize the appearance or feel of the fault.

 Cause - All the main causes, for example: - faulty cutting, incorrect machine setting, machine
breakdown, mistake by operative or previous operatives.

 Effect - Result of the fault, cost of the fault, and weak edges for example: - likely to break away,
scrapped or seconds, loss of incentive pay.

 Responsibility - Which defects are trainees' own fault and which are the responsibility of others. Do
not encourage the passing of blame, similarly, do not blame unfairly.

 Action - What action is to be carried out on discovery of the fault, for example: -

 Reject, unpick and re-sew, report to Instructor/Supervisor/Mechanic.

  Prevention - Any action which can or should be taken to avoid a recurrence of the fault should be
recorded, for example: - check tensions and stitches on every third garment. Ensure edges match
before sewing, etc.

Fault Analysis Card

FAULT APPEARANCE CAUSE EFFECT RESPONSIBILITY ACTION PREVENTION

Split Half stitch or Failure Weak Operative Remove Check each

Stitch part to part in fabric stitch is on a
on Of stitch place seam from constructive
Linking whole which points point when
stitch under and run fabric is run on
on pressure on
point will
break
away

Conclusion
The quality control programme can be summarised as:
 A particular SOP is followed while performing any activity and this SOP is framed by the company
for different sections of the Apparel industry
 Inspection is conducted at all the stages to ensure that quality is maintained throughout.
 When a defect is encountered, there are different tools of quality control which are used to deal with
the defects and reduce their number in further operations.
 The defects which are frequently found in different stages of production are mentioned and the tools
of Quality control which are used for various processes help in maintaining the quality of ther good
produced.
 The 4 point inspection process is followed for inspecting the fabric and the goods.
 AQL of 4.0 is followed while inspection of the final goods.
 The company follows the ISO standards of ISO 9000. It follows the ISO standards to meet the ISO
9000 and ISO 9001 certification.
 The quality control programme is inspired from companies which have a benchmark in quality, such
as J.C. Payne.