Professional Documents
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Cook S Country June 01 2018
Cook S Country June 01 2018
Cobbler
This sweet summer treat is a
perfect inish to a backyard supper.
Our step-by-step instructions
make it easy. P A G E 2 4
One-Batch Fried Chicken
All the Crunch, Half the Efort
Plastic Wrap
Which Product Is the Best?
Code Red
Hot Sauce Taste Test
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
$ 5. 9 5 U.S. / $ 6. 9 5 CA N A DA
D I S P L AY U N T I L J U LY 9, 20 1 8
LETTER
FROM THE
Chief Executive Oicer David Nussbaum
EDITOR Chief Creative Oicer Jack Bishop
Editor in Chief Tucker Shaw
Executive Managing Editor Todd Meier
Executive Food Editor Bryan Roof
Deputy Editor Scott Kathan
Senior Editors Morgan Bolling, Katie Leaird, Ashley Moore
Associate Editor Cecelia Jenkins
Photo Team & Special Events Manager Tim McQuinn
Lead Cook, Photo Team Dan Cellucci
Test Cooks Alli Berkey, Matthew Fairman
Test Cook, Photo Team Jessica Rudolph
Senior Copy Editors Jill Campbell, Krista Magnuson
Contributing Editor Eva Katz
Senior Science Research Editor Paul Adams
Hosts & Executive Editors, Television Bridget Lancaster,
Julia Collin Davison
W
H E N I WA S
Associate Editor, Web Ashley Delma
favorite ways to doctor up supermarket macaroni and cheese. You know
the kind—those blue boxes with the powdered cheese mix. Sure, you Creative Director John Torres
could eat it as is, but why not stir in a handful of peas, a can of tuna fish, Photography Director Julie Cote
Art Director Susan Levin
or maybe some cut-up hot dogs? Associate Art Director Maggie Edgar
We were odd children. Senior Staf Photographer Daniel J. van Ackere
Odd or not, I loved these conversations. I was proud to announce that my favorite Staf Photographers Steve Klise, Kevin White
Photography Producer Meredith Mulcahy
add-in was canned green chile peppers. I loved the mild spiciness, the faint sweetness,
and the bold green flecks. They made that bowl of mac and cheese special. It was my Director, Creative Operations Alice Carpenter
mac and cheese. Imaging Manager Lauren Robbins
I’m not sure I realized it then, but these conversations were the first time I’d con- Production & Imaging Specialists Heather Dube,
Dennis Noble, Jessica Voas
sidered that cooking can be open to interpretation. It can be personal. It was a small Test Kitchen Director Erin McMurrer
revelation at the time, but in retrospect, sensing this freedom cemented my love of Assistant Test Kitchen Director Alexxa Benson
home cooking and, perhaps counterintuitively, my love of strict recipes. Test Kitchen Manager Meridith Lippard
Senior Kitchen Assistant Receiver Kelly Ryan
See, Cook’s Country cooks and editors, as you know, go to extraordinary lengths Senior Kitchen Assistant Shopper Marissa Bunnewith
when developing recipes—test after test after test. This diligence leads to recipes that Lead Kitchen Assistant Ena Gudiel
are precise and exacting, and we publish them with the premise (and the promise) that Kitchen Assistants Gladis Campos, Blanca Castanza,
Amarilys Merced, Sujeila Trujillo
if you follow them exactly, you’ll have successful results. The first time I make a new
Cook’s Country recipe at home, I follow it exactly as written because I know there will be Chief Financial Oicer Jackie McCauley Ford
something to learn by doing so. Senior Manager, Customer Support Tim Quinn
But sometimes after that first encounter, I diverge. Not too far, but a little. I may add Senior Customer Loyalty & Support Specialist
Rebecca Kowalski
an extra clove or two of garlic to a recipe such as Grilled Mojo Chicken (page 12) Customer Loyalty & Support Specialist J.P. Dubuque
because I really love garlic. I may add a tablespoon of capers to the Steak Pizzaiola
(page 18) because I love capers’ briny flavor. And I may chop up an extra jalapeño to Chief Revenue Oicer Sara Domville
Senior Director, Events & Special Projects Mehgan Conciatori
stir into the sauce for Jalapeño-Apricot Glazed Pork Chops (page 19) because, well, you
Partnership Marketing Manager Pamela Putprush
Illustration: Ross MacDonald
already know how I feel about chile peppers. Director, Integrated Partnerships & Business
Can I guarantee that customizing things this way will be an improvement every Development Ethan Shelley
time? Nope. It’s always a gamble. But fortune favors the bold, and with techniques I Director, Special Accounts Erica Nye
Sales & New Business Coordinator Britt Radonich
trust and ingredients I confidently love, I’m willing to take the bet. Director, Sponsorship Marketing & Client Services
After all, I’m the one who’s going to be eating it. Christine Anagnostis
Client Services Manager Kate Zebrowski
Cook’s Country magazine (ISSN 1552-1990), number 81, is published bimonthly by America’s Test Kitchen Limited Partnership, 21 Drydock Avenue, Suite 210E, Boston, MA 02210. Copyright 2018
America’s Test Kitchen Limited Partnership. Periodicals postage paid at Boston, MA, and additional mailing oices, USPS #023453. Publications Mail Agreement No. 40020778. Return undeliver-
able Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 875, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A 6P2. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Cook’s Country, P.O. Box 6018, Harlan, IA 51593-1518. For subscription and gift
subscription orders, subscription inquiries, or change of address notices, visit AmericasTestKitchen.com/support, call 800-526-8447 in the U.S. or 515-237-3663 from outside the U.S., or write to
us at Cook’s Country, P.O. Box 6018, Harlan, IA 51593-1518. PRINTED IN THE USA. 22
ASK COOK’S COUNTRY
by Morgan Bolling
Summertime Hues plain and in our Watermelon-Tomato
Is there a flavor diference between Salad (August/September 2016). Over-
yellow watermelon and red water- all, the yellow watermelon had the
melon? same signature juiciness and texture
–Isabelle Spector, Evanston, Ill. that we love in red watermelon, but it
lacked some of the red’s intense melon
While you usually see only red water- flavor. Tasters found it plenty sweet but
melon at the grocery store, there are “more mild” and “dull” compared with
many more varieties of this fruit, of- its red cousin. That said, it still was
fering orange, yellow, pink, and white worth trying, if for nothing other than
flesh. The yellow-fleshed variety is the its interesting appearance.
second most common type, and many T H E B O T T O M L I N E : Yellow-fleshed
supermarkets carry it in the summer. watermelon is juicy and very similar in
To see if there were any flavor or texture to its red-fleshed cousin, but it
R EDDER I S BET T ER texture diferences between red and is milder in flavor than standard sweet
Red watermelon has the best lavor. yellow watermelons, we tasted each red watermelon.
Chocolate Crusts chip, the dark cast-iron surface under- Trimming the Fat
I love chocolate. Can I substitute neath will be exposed. Before cooking What do you mean when you call
chocolate wafer cookies for graham with the pot, be sure to clean it well, as for a “boneless, skinless chicken
crackers in graham cracker crusts you don’t want any more loose enamel breast, trimmed”? Aren’t boneless
and other cookie crusts? to chip of. Once you’ve done that, it’s breasts already pretty clean? What
–Melissa Bowe, Tulsa, Okla. fine to cook with. do you trim away?
T H E B O T T O M L I N E : You can use metal
–Tate Starhill, Jackson, Miss.
We love chocolate, too. So to test this cooking utensils when cooking in
question, we made our standard graham enameled cast-iron pots and pans as Whenever we cook with chicken
cracker pie crust using plain graham long as you do so gently. If you strike parts, we inspect and trim them before
crackers and pitted it against two the pot sharply with metal utensils, the seasoning and cooking. The objective
other crusts: one made with chocolate enamel can crack or chip. is to remove any tough, gristly bits that
wafer cookies and another made with would be unpleasant to eat.
chocolate graham crackers. For good Smoky Seasoning To trim a boneless, skinless chicken
measure, we also made three batches breast, place it on a cutting board with
I’ve seen smoked salt at my grocery
of our Easiest-Ever Cheesecake, which the smooth, rounded side facing up.
store. What is it?
features a graham cracker crust, using Then use a sharp chef’s knife to cut
the same three products. Love chocolate? Our testing showed that
–Kim Walsh, Bethesda, Md. away any white or yellow fat clinging
While tasters liked the “intense” you can replace regular graham crackers Most smoked salt is sea salt that has to its sides, any bloody areas on the
with chocolate grahams in pie crusts.
chocolate flavor of the crust made with been cold-smoked using aromatic outside, or any pieces of tendon that are
chocolate wafer cookies, the textures woods such as hickory, alder, cherry, or sticking out. It’s OK to leave the thin
of the two crusts we made with them apple, each of which imparts a unique white strip running along the smooth
sufered. The unfilled pie crust slid Easy Does It flavor. Other versions are made by side of the breast—it won’t be tough.
down the sides of the pie plate, and I love cooking in my enameled mixing liquid smoke with salt and dry- (Bone-in, skin-on chicken parts usually
the cheesecake version was greasy and cast-iron cookware, especially my ing the mixture. require more trimming.)
soggy. Previous testing has shown us Dutch oven. But I’ve heard that I We never call for smoked salt in our T H E B O T T O M L I N E : Trim boneless,
that crumb crusts containing too much shouldn’t use metal cooking utensils recipes, but your question made us curi- skinless chicken breasts of any visible
sugar or fat slump when baked. The when cooking in it. Is this true? ous. We ordered a few smoked salts and fat and tendons, without cutting into
combined weight of fat and sugar in –Matthew Blondell, Louisville, Tenn. tasted them alone, sprinkled over white the meat, before cooking.
both types of graham crackers is about rice, baked into our Buttermilk Drop
35 percent of their total weight; the The enamel glaze that covers this kind Biscuits, and sprinkled over roast beef.
combined weight of fat and sugar in of cast-iron cookware is similar to the In short, we found a huge variance,
the chocolate wafer cookies is about glaze painted and fired onto pottery. both in flavor and in grain size, among
10 percent heavier. If that kind of glaze is sharply struck smoked salts. Some had pleasing “grill”
On the other hand, the two crusts with something hard, it can crack or flavors, while others were more reminis-
made with chocolate graham crack- chip. The same thing can happen with cent of “stale cigarettes.” Because of this
ers were nearly identical in texture the enamel glaze applied to cast-iron variance in the salts, we don’t suggest
to those made with standard honey cookware. using them as a substitute for table or
graham crackers. But although the We checked in with our equipment kosher salt in recipes. But they can be
chocolate graham crusts had excellent testing team, and they airmed that worth trying as finishing salts. Just be
textures, tasters found their chocolate you can use metal utensils in enameled sure to taste what you buy on its own
flavor a bit muted. cookware as long as you don’t bang the before you sprinkle it over your food.
T H E B O T T O M L I N E : Chocolate gra- utensils full-force on the enamel (the T H E B O T T O M L I N E : Smoked salts are
ham crackers are a good substitute for enamel on the lip is especially fragile). meant to impart both salinity and
regular graham crackers in a crust. For a similar reason, you should also smokiness to food. But there’s a lot of
But if you want to make a crust using avoid slamming the lid down on your variance among products, so we don’t Trim the fat Use sharp chef’s knife to
chocolate wafer cookies, use a recipe enameled cookware. suggest using them as a substitute for cut away any obvious bits of fat or gristle
that specifically calls for them. If your enameled cookware does other salts. sticking out, without cutting into meat.
2 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E /J U LY 2 0 1 8
K I TC H E N
S H O RTC U TS If You Grill
Compiled by Cecelia Jenkins
with Charcoal,
You Need
a Chimney
Starter. But
Which One
Should You Buy?
by Hannah Crowley
L I G H T E R F L U I D C AN impart un-
pleasant flavors to grilled food, so we
use a chimney starter to light charcoal.
These simple
EQUIPMENT devices generally
REVIEW consist of a cylin- Charcoal in a chimney is ready for grilling
drical body with when the briquettes are covered with a
Quicker Kebabs fine white ash, like this.
a handle and two stacked chambers:
Nolan O’Brien, Fort Worth, Texas
the top one for charcoal and the bot-
tom one for the fuel used to light the KEY Good +++ Fair ++ Poor +
This only really works for pork tenderloin, but it’s an awesome trick. I start
with two tenderloins and cut each in half lengthwise into two long strips. I charcoal, typically newspaper.
Since our last testing in 2009, our HIGHLY RECO MMENDED
then cut each of those strips in half crosswise, which leaves me with eight
previous winner, the Weber Rapidfire
rectangles. I line up those pieces so their long sides are touching, send in the Weber Rapidire
Chimney Starter, has been slightly
Chimney Starter
skewers from the side, and inally, cut between the skewers. Now I’m ready updated with a more ergonomic Model: 7416
to marinate and/or grill with much less fussy assembly work. handle, so we saw an opportunity to Price: $14.99
retest it alongside other new models.
We rounded up six widely available Comments: Our repeat
winner is sturdy, roomy,
chimney starters, priced from $14.99 and easy to use. And at
Sweet Inspiration to $29.95, and commenced testing. $14.99, it’s also one of the Capacity +++
Elyse Phillips, Charleston, S.C. We lit 3, 6, and 7 quarts of char- least expensive models Ease of Use +++
coal in each starter and poured the we tested.
I take a lot of cream and sugar in
briquettes into diferent formations
my morning cofee, and running to represent the many ways we grill— RECO MMENDED
out of either can cause a crisis. In from quick, high-heat recipes such as
Outset Collapsible
the middle of one such situation burgers to low-and-slow projects such
Camping Grill
recently, I spied a can of sweetened as pulled pork. We timed how long and Chimney Starter
it took to light the briquettes, rating Model: 76356
condensed milk in the pantry and,
each starter on how much charcoal it Price: $19.60
in a it of undercafeinated despera- could hold and on its ease of use.
tion (and thinking about Thai- and Comments: This large,
We downgraded models with square starter it the
Vietnamese-style cofees, both of the following flaws: a too-small fuel maximum amount of coal Capacity +++
which use this product), cracked it (newspaper) chamber that made we required. Its collapsible Ease of Use ++
full ignition laborious, a too-small design was convenient but
open and poured some into my cup. made it feel a bit rickety.
charcoal chamber that couldn’t
Perfect Peeling It worked so well that I used the rest
hold enough briquettes for eicient
Oona Matthews, Montpelier, Vt. of the can in my cofee for the next high-heat grilling, handles that were NOT RECO MMENDED
week—and my husband loves it in uncomfortable or cumbersome to
Trying to peel a whole or halved onion Char-Griller Charcoal Grill
his iced cofee. hold or that got too hot, and a char- Chimney Starter with Quick Release
can be tricky—the papery skin invari- coal chamber that felt rickety or was Trigger, 12-Inch
ably lakes away just when I think hard to pour from with good control. Model: 9586 Price: $24.31
I’ve got a good grip on it. But a friend Our preferred starters also had helper
showed me a better way to peel. I cut handles to facilitate pouring. GrillPro
The Weber Rapidfire Chimney Chimney Style Charcoal Starter
the onion into quarters through the Model: 39470 Price: $14.99
Starter is again our top pick. It has
root end; the points of each wedge
roomy chambers for both newspa-
make it easy to peel back the skin per and charcoal, is easy to light and Charcoal Companion Stainless
Steel Chimney Charcoal Starter
Illustration: Traci Daberko
layer all in one piece. Plus, since the pour from, and has two comfortable Model: CC3026 Price: $23.10
wedges lie lat, they are really easy handles that stayed cool. At $14.99, it
to chop! was also one of the cheapest models
we tested. Go to CooksCountry. Barbecue Dragon
Chimney of Insanity
com/jul18 to read the full testing and Model: BBQD100 Price: $29.95
see the complete results chart.
Philly’s
Other
Illustration: Ross MacDonald; Photos: Courtesy of the Special Collections Research Center, Temple University Libraries (bottom left and center), Ron Hartman (bottom right)
Philly cheesesteak
rivalries are legendary,
Sandwich
but that’s not the only
contested lunch in town.
Both DiNic’s (at right and
above right) and John’s
(below) have rabid fans
who claim that their pre- Text by Bryan Roof; photos by Steve Klise
ferred roast pork sandwich
vendor is the best.
the cashiers, line cooks, and back kitchen become an indelible part of the city’s
I
F YOU’RE ORDERING
house special hot roast pork staf all jammed into a tiny shoebox of cultural fabric.
sandwich at John’s Roast Pork a building. That fabric includes Tommy DiNic’s,
in South Philadelphia, you don’t By contrast, the cavernous Reading a Reading Terminal Market standby
have to wait in line; that deeply satisfy- Terminal Market across town delivers since 1980. DiNic’s draws a huge and
ing sandwich of roasted pork, braised a much bigger, nearly overwhelming reliable lunchtime crowd, weekdays
spinach, and a noticeable kick of black sensory experience with its butchers and and weekends alike. Cooks pile garlicky
and red peppers can be made in short grocers and gift shops and bakeries sell- broccoli rabe atop the thin slices of
order, and you’re allowed to weave ing freshly fried doughnuts. It’s packed seasoned pork, along with sharp provo-
through the lunch-rush crowd and to the brim with a mix of tourists and lone cheese. Fresh bread, crunchy on
up to the counter. You can be out the locals and, despite the neon signs, the outside and soft inside, soaks up the
door while the other guy is still getting there’s an air of antiquity and comfort juices and keeps everything in place.
yelled at for ordering his cheesesteak to the place, a sit-and-stay-awhile kind Most of the time, anyway.
all wrong. (“American wit’ extra” is of vibe.
the way to go [“extra” = onions].) At This is no surprise: The building Go to CooksCountry.com/philly to
midday, John’s is a noisy place, thanks made its debut as a civic marketplace see more pictures from our trip to
mostly to the yelling between the more than 100 years ago and has the City of Brotherly Love.
Roast Pork Sandwiches? Yes. But That’s Not All You’ll Find at the Reading Terminal Market
In 1890, the 1100 block of Market
Street was home to butchers,
produce vendors, and other food
sellers. That year, the Phila-
delphia and Reading Railroad
bought the land for a new sta-
tion, but the vendors refused to
leave. A deal was struck to share
the space; it was a mixed-use
building for decades. The rail
was later rerouted, creating even
more space for the food vendors.
4 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E /J U LY 2 0 1 8
Philly Roast Pork Sandwiches
We went to Philadelphia for the cheesesteak. We stayed for the roast pork sandwich.
by Morgan Bolling
C O L O N E L S A N D E R S F A M O U S LY
touted the “eleven secret herbs and
spices” in his fast-food fried chicken,
but the real secret to its success wasn’t
his flavorings—it was how he cooked
it. Lore of the secret recipe overshad-
owed the little-known fact that Harland
Sanders, the famous bowtied Colonel,
used a covered pressure-frying machine
to consistently produce juicy, deep-fried
chicken in a fraction of the time tradi-
tionally required—a speedy technology
still used today.
While I didn’t have a pressure fryer,
I was excited by the idea of faster fry-
ing. What’s more, I wanted to find a
way to fry a full cut-up chicken (except
the wings): two breasts (cut in half),
two thighs, and two drumsticks in
just one batch. Could I come up with
a method for frying all the pieces to-
gether so they all hit the table, hot and
ready to eat, at the same time? Inspired
by the Colonel’s inventiveness, I went
into the kitchen to be inventive myself.
As we often do with fried chicken,
I started by soaking bone-in chicken
pieces in a mixture of buttermilk and
salt to season the meat and help it
stay moist. Then, using my fingers, I
rubbed a few tablespoons of buttermilk
into some seasoned flour (I’d experi-
ment more with the exact seasonings
later) to create a shaggy coating,
which I knew would fry up into an
extra-crunchy exterior. I let the coated
chicken rest in the fridge for a spell to Working buttermilk into the seasoned flour before dredging the chicken is the secret to an extra-crunchy fried coating.
help the coating adhere.
I knew that if I fried it in the usual I covered the pot for the first half dripped of the lid as I lifted it. The due to loss of moisture, so I had more
way—in two batches uncovered on the of the frying time to create a closed bad news? The moisture trapped in room to flip them. I left the lid of for
stovetop in a 6-quart Dutch oven— environment, which, while not the the oil was encouraging the coating the second half of the cooking time to
this chicken would be delicious. But same as a pressure fryer, did echo the to slip of the chicken before it had allow excess moisture to escape and
I wasn’t interested in the usual way. I technology in one regard: It held in set up and cooked through, especially to enable me to watch the chicken’s
wanted speed. the heat. when I went to flip the chicken half- coating set fully into a crunchy, deep
To fit all the chicken pieces into This was a good start. But more way through the cooking time. golden brown.
my pot, I had to significantly decrease chicken in the pot also meant more Adjusting my timing to allow the Hot spots in the pot also posed a
the amount of oil typically used in moisture to deal with. (Nearly all fried chicken to fry mostly undisturbed for problem, but since I didn’t want to
deep frying so it didn’t overflow—just foods release moisture when cooked at least 10 minutes was the key; this move the chicken to alleviate them,
6 cups did the trick. I heated the oil in oil; this is why the oil bubbles.) The enabled the coating to set almost I instead moved the pot, rotating it
and then carefully added the chicken good news? Because there was already entirely around each piece before I 180 degrees on the burner after the
to the pot. It was a snug fit, and with so much moisture in the pot, the disturbed the chicken with my tongs. first 5 minutes of cooking.
so many pieces going in at once, the oil condensation accumulating on the lid What’s more, during this extended With the frying finally settled, I
temperature dropped dramatically. didn’t cause any extra splatter when it up-front time, the pieces shrank a bit started noodling around to create my
6 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E /J U LY 2 0 1 8
own seasoned flour inspired by the 3 pounds bone-in chicken pieces 3. Set wire rack in rimmed baking
Colonel’s famous flavor mix. Rather (2 split breasts cut in half crosswise, sheet. Working with 2 pieces of chick-
than call for a long list of dried herbs, 2 drumsticks, and 2 thighs), trimmed en at a time, remove from buttermilk
I reached for a jar of Italian seasoning 11⁄2 quarts peanut or vegetable oil mixture, allowing excess to drip of,
blend (a mix of dried herbs: oregano, then drop into flour mixture, turning
thyme, basil, rosemary, and sage). COAT ING to thoroughly coat and pressing to
Granulated garlic, ground ginger, and 3 cups all-purpose lour adhere. Transfer to prepared rack, skin
celery salt added lively savory notes, 3 tablespoons white pepper side up. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at
and both black and white peppers 1 tablespoon pepper least 1 hour or up to 2 hours.
produced a pleasant, mild heat. A bit 1 tablespoon celery salt 4. Set second wire rack in second
of baking powder added to the dredge 1 tablespoon granulated garlic rimmed baking sheet and line with
helped ensure a crunchy but not 1 tablespoon ground ginger triple layer of paper towels. Add oil THE
tough exterior. 1 tablespoon Italian seasoning to large Dutch oven until it measures AMERICAN
The final analysis from my tasters? 1 tablespoon baking powder about 1 inch deep and heat over TABLE
While my one-batch technique was 1⁄2 teaspoon salt medium-high heat to 350 degrees. Add
fast and easy enough for a beginner, 6 tablespoons buttermilk all chicken to oil, skin side down in His iconic white suit is part of what makes
the supercrunchy chicken tasted like single layer (some slight overlap is OK) Harland Sanders’s image an indelible
it’d been fried by a pro. 1 . FOR THE BRINE AND CHICKEN: so that pieces are mostly submerged. one in the American food landscape, but
Whisk buttermilk and salt in large Cover and fry for 10 minutes, rotating according to Josh Ozersky’s biography
O N E-BATC H FR I E D C HI CK EN bowl until salt is dissolved. Submerge pot after 5 minutes. Adjust burner, if Colonel Sanders and the American Dream
Serves 4 chicken in buttermilk mixture. Cover necessary, to maintain oil temperature (2012), the Colonel’s original suit was
Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at around 300 degrees. black. “It came with a string tie and was
or more. To take the temperature of least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. 5. Uncover pot (chicken will be golden distinctive enough in its way, but some-
the chicken pieces, take them out of 2 . FOR THE COATING: Whisk on sides and bottom but unset and gray thing about it lacked oomph, panache.”
the oil and place them on a plate; this flour, white pepper, pepper, celery on top) and carefully flip chicken. Con- Eventually, in a bid to portray the image
is the safest way and provides the most salt, granulated garlic, ginger, Italian tinue to fry, uncovered, until chicken is of a “paternal-looking Southern gentle-
accurate reading. seasoning, baking powder, and salt golden brown and breasts register 160 man,” Sanders bleached his beard and
together in large bowl. Add butter- degrees and drumsticks/thighs register changed up the suit; as Ozersky tells it,
BR INE A N D C H I C K E N milk and, using your fingers, rub flour 175 degrees, 7 to 9 minutes longer. “television producers told him the white
2 cups buttermilk mixture and buttermilk together until Transfer chicken to paper towel–lined suit made him stand out, giving him a
1 tablespoon salt craggy bits form throughout. rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Serve. visual signature.”
1. Cut split breasts in half 2. Marinate in salted buttermilk 3. Add buttermilk to seasoned lour 4. Dredge and let sit
You want all the pieces to be roughly the Buttermilk and salt create a brine that sea- The liquid creates small lumps in the lour Chilling the chicken for at least an hour
same size so that they cook evenly. sons the chicken and helps it stay moist. that fry up extra-crispy and crunchy. helps the coating set up and stick.
Photo: (c) Bettmann/Getty (top)
5. Start frying 6. Carefully rotate pot 7. Uncover and lip 8. Drain and let rest
Put all the chicken into the hot oil, cover Spin the pot 180 degrees to ensure equal Some pieces might have “bald” uncooked Paper towels soak up excess oil. Let the
the pot, and fry for 5 minutes. heating; fry for another 5 minutes. tops. Flip all pieces and fry for 8 minutes. chicken rest for 10 minutes before serving.
8 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E /J U LY 2 0 1 8
Roasted Ranch Potatoes
Crispy potatoes dressed with herby, tangy ranch dressing sounded like a hit.
But irst we had to get the ranch right. by Ashley Moore
T O M A N Y , R A N C H dressing invokes The finished potatoes had some CHEESY RAN CH POTATOES Keys to Perfectly
a feeling of nirvana, like what oth- ranch flavor, but my tasters were Serves 4 Browned Potatoes
ers may feel when they lounge on a underwhelmed, as cooking had dulled Be sure to scrub and dry the potatoes
tropical beach or sip vintage Bordeaux the brightness of the fresh herbs. I thoroughly before cutting them.
along the Seine. Heck, I went to did a test with dried dill and cilantro
school with a girl who was so smit- that similarly lacked vitality. The SAUCE
ten that she dipped her pizza in ranch simple solution was to leave the fresh 1⁄4 cup mayonnaise
dressing. And so a recipe for ranch-y herbs out of the seasoning I was ap- 1⁄4 cup sour cream
roasted potatoes seemed like a surefire plying before cooking the potatoes 2 tablespoons milk
crowd-pleaser. and instead sprinkle them over the 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
To figure out how to season potatoes cooked potatoes. 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
with ranch flavor, I ran dozens of tests But my tasters were emphatic in 2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill
to determine the right combination their view that ranch seasoning wasn’t 1 teaspoon granulated garlic
and ratios of herbs and spices. I settled the same as ranch dressing. They 1 teaspoon onion powder
on a carefully calibrated mixture of missed the creamy element. All it took 1⁄4 teaspoon salt
salt, pepper, onion powder, granulated was the addition of a little mayonnaise, 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper Use Plenty of Oil
garlic, fresh cilantro, and fresh dill. I sour cream, and milk to my spice blend After cutting the unpeeled potatoes
tossed chunks of Yukon Gold pota- to create a tangy ranch dressing to POTATOES into chunks, we toss them with sea-
toes—which we preferred to other serve with the ranch-seasoned spuds. 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, sonings and plenty of oil—extra-virgin
varieties for their creamy texture—in A sprinkling of shredded cheddar over unpeeled, cut into 1-inch chunks olive oil in this case. The oil adds lavor
olive oil and my ranch blend and roast- top gilded the lily. 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil and promotes browning.
ed them on a rimmed baking sheet in Are you a ranch enthusiast (or 2 teaspoons granulated garlic
a 400-degree oven until the potatoes a “rancher,” as one colleague calls 2 teaspoons onion powder
were tender and nicely browned, which herself)? Then we have a new dish with 1 teaspoon salt
took about 40 minutes. your name on it. 1 teaspoon pepper
8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese,
shredded (2 cups)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill
Next, I moved on to getting the stick with summer after summer. 24 hours. board and cut in half lengthwise with
wedge-shaped steak cooked evenly 2. FOR THE SOY DRESSING: grain to create 2 narrow steaks. Slice
throughout. Could solving this prob- Our recipe for Grilled Flank Steak with Whisk all ingredients in bowl until each steak thin on bias against grain.
lem be as easy as setting up my grill Basil Dressing is available for four sugar has dissolved; set aside. Transfer steak to shallow platter and
with a cooler side for the thinnest part months at CooksCountry.com/jul18. 3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: pour dressing over top. Serve.
10 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
Grilled Prosciutto-Wrapped
Asparagus
How do you improve Because prosciutto is salty, I found
I didn’t need to add any salt; a little
on grilled asparagus? pepper and a spritz of lemon juice
(after cooking) was all the seasoning
Dress it in a salty, sa- the bundles needed. My tasters loved
vory prosciutto jacket. how such a simple dish could sing with
complex, savory flavors. As we say in
by Cecelia Jenkins
the test kitchen, that’s a wrap.
12 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
Southwestern
Tomato and Corn Salad
One tomato, two tomato,
coals are partially covered with ash,
pour two-thirds evenly over half three tomato, corn.
of grill, then pour remaining coals by Morgan Bolling
over other half of grill. Set cook-
ing grate in place, cover, and open
lid vent completely. Heat grill until IF YOU ASKED me to choose a fa-
hot, about 5 minutes. vorite summertime vegetable, I’d have
6B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn a hard time choosing between toma-
all burners to high, cover, and heat toes and corn. At peak ripeness, each
grill until hot, about 15 minutes. is perfect on its own. But together?
Turn primary burner to medium Even better. If, that is, you don’t
and turn other burner(s) to low. mess with them too much. I wanted a
(Adjust primary burner as needed to simple salad with a subtle southwestern
maintain grill temperature between profile, just right for a relaxed summer
400 and 425 degrees.) supper—preferably outdoors.
7. Clean and oil cooking grate. I started my recipe development
Divide reserved mojo sauce equally process not in the kitchen but at the
between 2 bowls. Remove chicken market. Heirloom tomatoes are great
from zipper-lock bag and place on when you can get your hands on them.
cooler side of grill, skin side up; Juicy and delicate, they usually can’t
discard marinade. Cover and cook withstand shipping, so they’re more
until underside of chicken is lightly likely to be grown locally. But if your
browned, about 15 minutes. Using market’s fresh out at the moment, look
first bowl of mojo, baste chicken, for a tomato that has a strong fruity
then flip chicken and baste second aroma and feels heavy with juice. I
side (use all of first bowl). Cover picked up 1½ pounds of the ripest
and continue to cook until leg-thigh tomatoes I could find and cut them into
joint registers 165 degrees, about bite-size wedges.
15 minutes longer. To add corn to the mix, I tried
8. Slide chicken to hotter side of blanched, sautéed, and raw kernels that
grill, keeping skin side down, and I’d cut from a fresh, perfect cob. The
cook (covered if using gas) until blanched version required two extra
skin is well browned, 3 to 5 min- dishes, and the kernels lost some of
utes. Flip chicken and continue to their signature crunch. The charred
cook until leg-thigh joint regis- flavor in the sautéed corn distracted
ters 175 degrees, about 3 minutes from the fresh, vibrant taste of the
longer. Transfer chicken to platter tomatoes. Surprisingly, our favorite
and spoon remaining mojo sauce was also the easiest: raw kernels. They
from second bowl over top. Tent added little bursts of sweetness, a
with aluminum foil and let rest for welcome complement to the deeply
5 minutes. Serve. flavorful, juicy tomatoes. Plus, it takes
little efort to remove them from a cob.
I tossed the components with vin-
The Beneit aigrettes made with a range of ratios, A bright vinaigrette—bumped up with shallot and jalapeño—plays of the sweetness of produce.
of Slashing starting with 3 parts extra-virgin olive
oil to 1 part acid (in this case, lime SOUTHWESTERN TOMATO 1. Cut tomatoes into ½-inch-thick
juice) and working my way down. AN D CORN SALAD wedges, then cut wedges in half
Eventually, I arrived at a ratio of 6 parts Serves 4 crosswise. Arrange tomatoes on large,
oil to 1 part lime juice, which gave me If queso fresco is unavailable, you can shallow platter, alternating colors.
bright-but-not-sour flavor without substitute farmer’s cheese or a mild feta. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
obscuring the star ingredients. Sprinkle corn over top.
I was taking this salad in a south- 11⁄2 pounds ripe mixed tomatoes, cored 2. Whisk oil, shallot, jalapeño, lime
western direction, so I added a little Salt and pepper juice, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon
minced jalapeño for heat and a sprin- 1 ear corn, kernels cut from cob pepper together in medium bowl.
Use a boning knife to make several kling of mild queso fresco for just a bit 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Spoon dressing evenly over tomatoes.
deep cuts through the chicken skin and of richness. A few leaves of cilantro Sprinkle with queso fresco and cilan-
Illustration: Jay Layman
The salt and sugar in our seasoning blend help give the grill-smoked salmon a silky texture.
GR EEN APPLE
Adds a sweet-tart element
to the crunchy carrot
and celery slaw
Illustration: Traci Daberko
14 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
ON THE ROAD
T W A S 7 : 3 0 a.m. and Jim Ruddell’s large, cabinet-style electric smoker was filled
I with dozens of salmon fillets. Alder sawdust burned in a small tray in the bottom of
the smoker, its temperature constantly monitored and adjusted by Ruddell. The fish
had been smoking slowly for hours and was approaching completion; overcooking is
the worst crime, so Ruddell’s sharp eye and keen attention were essential.
In a flash he grabbed the sawdust tray with a mitted hand, slid it out of the smoker,
and charged at me with an urgent “SCOOT!” I scrambled to safety—not easy in the
250-square-foot Ruddell’s Smokehouse. He dumped the ashes in a bin outside, waved hi
to a passerby, and then reentered the kitchen to reload the tray with fresh sawdust.
Ruddell first started smoking fish in his backyard in Los Angeles. “My neighbor would
call the cops on us all the time for fire code violations. So I became really good friends
with the code guy, and he recommended I check out Cayucos.” Soon Ruddell was smok-
ing over 700 pounds of fish and shrimp per week and surfing every day.
The smokehouse, just yards from the sand of Cayucos State Beach, enjoys a spectacular
view. Next to the small prep table and flattop griddle where Ruddell prepared tacos and
sandwiches for the coming crowds is a large picture window through which he’d gaze
The stunning stretch
onto the crashing waves and the endless blue Pacific horizon. “Every morning, I watch the of coast attracts
dawn and think ‘I live like a king,’” he said. “People pay me to make tacos on the beach. locals and tourists
I’m probably the richest guy I know. I mean, this is my oice, man!” alike; many take their
tacos across the
Jim Ruddell died in February 2018. I feel lucky to have had the chance to meet this
street for a picnic on
man, whose views—of the ocean and of life—inspired me. the beach.
SM O K E D FI S H TACOS TACOS spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet. needed to maintain grill temperature
Serves 4 to 6 1⁄2 cup mayonnaise 3. Remove salmon from sugar mix- between 250 and 275 degrees.)
Hickory wood chips are widely avail- 1⁄4 cup spicy brown mustard ture; discard sugar mixture. Rinse 5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Brush
able and work fine in this recipe. 2 teaspoons lemon juice excess sugar mixture from salmon and tops and sides of salmon fillets evenly
However, we prefer the flavor that 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cumin pat salmon dry with paper towels. with apricot mixture. Place fillets,
applewood chips (if you can find 1 small Granny Smith apple, Whisk preserves and water together in skin side down, on cooler side of grill,
them) impart to the fish. To ensure peeled and chopped ine small bowl; microwave until mixture is with thicker ends facing fire. Cover
even cooking, we prefer to purchase a 1 small celery rib, chopped ine fluid, about 30 seconds. grill (position lid vent over salmon
whole center-cut salmon fillet and cut 1 small carrot, peeled and shredded 4 A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: if using charcoal) and cook until
it into four equal pieces. Note that the 12 (6-inch) lour tortillas, warmed Open bottom vent completely. Light centers of fillets register 135 degrees
seasoned fillets must be refrigerated 3 ounces (3 cups) mesclun large chimney starter one-third filled (for medium-well), 28 to 35 minutes.
for at least 4 hours before grilling. If with charcoal briquettes (2 quarts). Transfer salmon to plate, tent with foil,
desired, you can serve the salmon as 1 . FOR THE SALMON: Combine When top coals are partially covered and let rest for 5 minutes. (If skin sticks
whole fillets rather than as a flaked sugar, ¼ cup salt, and granulated gar- with ash, pour evenly over half of to cooking grate, insert fish spatula
taco filling. Smucker’s makes our lic in bowl. Cut salmon crosswise into grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. between skin and fillet to separate and
favorite apricot preserves, and our 4 equal fillets. Transfer salmon and Set cooking grate in place, cover, and lift fillet from skin.)
favorite brown mustard is Gulden’s sugar mixture to 1-gallon zipper-lock open lid vent completely. Heat grill 6. FOR THE TACOS: Meanwhile,
Spicy Brown Mustard. bag. Press out air, seal bag, and turn until hot and wood chips are smoking, whisk mayonnaise, mustard, lemon
to evenly coat salmon with sugar mix- about 5 minutes. juice, and cumin together in bowl.
SA L MO N ture. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours 4 B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Remove Combine apple, celery, and carrot in
1 cup packed brown sugar or up to 24 hours. cooking grate and place wood chip second bowl.
2 . Just before grilling, soak wood packet directly on primary burner. 7. Remove and discard salmon skin.
Illustration: Ross MacDonald
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon granulated garlic chips in water for 15 minutes, then Set cooking grate in place, turn all Flake salmon into bite-size pieces and
1 (2-pound) center-cut, skin-on salmon drain. Using large piece of heavy-duty burners to high, cover, and heat grill season with salt to taste. Divide salmon
illet, about 11⁄2 inches thick aluminum foil, wrap soaked chips until hot and wood chips are smok- evenly among tortillas, about ⅓ cup per
1 cup wood chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make ing, about 15 minutes. Turn primary tortilla. Serve, topping each taco with
2 tablespoons apricot preserves sure chips do not poke holes in sides burner to medium and turn of other desired amounts of mesclun, mayon-
1 tablespoon water or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as naise mixture, and apple mixture.
IT HAD BEEN six years since we last our least favorite option was among
reviewed flour tortillas, so we gathered the thickest (2.18 millimeters) and the
six top-selling products priced from heaviest (36.78 grams). Higher-ranked
$1.99 to $2.72 per tortillas were generally thinner and
PRODUCT package, including lighter (our favorite was about 1.4
TASTING our previous win- millimeters thick and 23.7 grams), and
ner from Old El tasters described them as “airy.” These
Paso. We sampled them plain, in tacos, “delicate” tortillas had “distinct layers”
and cooked in mini cheese quesadillas. when we cooked them for quesadillas.
Flavor diferences were minor, with When we examined the ingredient
tasters describing most of the tortillas as lists, we saw that the lowest-ranked
“neutral” and “plain.” We didn’t mind; product was low in fat, containing
their “mild” flavor allowed the taco and about 1.7 grams of fat per 32-gram
quesadilla fillings to shine. serving. Every other tortilla contained
All the tortillas were sturdy enough 2 to 3.1 grams, and our winner is at the
to hold cheesy, juicy fillings without high end of that range. That extra fat
falling apart, but we didn’t like ones that contributes richness and flavor. We also
were too stif. Lower-ranked tortillas preferred products with at least 220 mil-
were oddly slick, with tasters likening ligrams of sodium per 32-gram serving.
them to “compressed supermarket white Our previous favorite came out on
bread.” Other tortillas were “dense” and top again. Old El Paso Flour Tortillas
“not especially tender.” We also noticed for Soft Tacos and Fajitas were the
that some products stuck together. The thinnest and lightest in our lineup but
best tortillas were sturdy yet also “very were still sturdy enough to contain
tender” and “soft” and could be easily hot, melty cheese and juicy pulled
removed from their packaging. pork without tearing or getting soggy.
To get a handle on size, we measured More good news: Old El Paso’s larger,
Homemade lour tortillas are amazingly good— the tortillas (using samples from two burrito-size tortillas are made using the
bags to get an average). Sure enough, same recipe.
and easier than you think. by Bryan Roof
RECOM M ENDED TASTERS’ NOTES
H O M E M A D E TACO - SI Z E into 6-inch circle on lightly floured
F LO U R TO RT I LLAS counter. Transfer to parchment Old El Paso Flour Tortillas Our previous winner, the thinnest
Makes 12 (6-inch) tortillas square and set aside. Repeat with re- for Soft Tacos and Fajitas tortilla in our lineup, impressed us
Lard can be substituted for the short- maining dough balls, stacking rolled Price: $2.49 for 10 tortillas again with its delicate and tender
($0.25 per tortilla) texture. Served warm, these tortillas
ening, if desired. The warm water tortillas on top of each other with Fat: 3.1 g Sodium: 222.6 mg had a “light, laky texture.” In quesadil-
makes the dough easier to roll out. parchment squares between. Average Thickness: 1.4 mm las, they became “crispy,” “like a cross
4. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet between a tortilla and phyllo dough.”
2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose lour over medium heat until shimmering.
1¼ teaspoons salt Wipe out skillet with paper towels, Guerrero Tortillas de Harina Although they’re thicker, we liked
5 tablespoons vegetable shortening, leaving thin film of oil on bottom. Caseras these “very tender and soft” tortillas
Price: $2.72 for 20 tortillas almost as much as our winner. They
cut into ½-inch chunks Place 1 tortilla in skillet and cook
($0.14 per tortilla) are high in fat, which adds tenderness
2⁄3 cup warm tap water until surface begins to bubble and Fat: 3 g Sodium: 240 mg and richness, and relatively high in
1 teaspoon vegetable oil bottom is spotty brown, about 1 min- Average Thickness: 2.18 mm lavor-enhancing sodium.
ute. (If not browned after 1 minute,
1. Combine flour and salt in large turn up heat slightly. If browning Mission Flour Tortillas A “soft and chewy” texture earned
bowl. Using your fingers, rub too quickly, reduce heat.) Flip and Price: $1.99 for 8 tortillas these thick, “sturdy” tortillas high
shortening into flour mixture until cook until spotty brown on second ($0.25 per tortilla) marks. Although they contain slightly
mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir side, 30 to 45 seconds. Transfer to Fat: 2 g Sodium: 260 mg less fat than our favorites, they had
Average Thickness: 2.39 mm some nice “lakiness.” These tortillas
in warm water until combined. plate and cover with clean dish towel. were the thickest in our lineup and
2. Turn out dough onto counter and Repeat with remaining tortillas. “held together well” in tacos.
knead briefly to form smooth, cohe-
sive ball. Divide dough into 12 equal TO MAK E AHEAD La Banderita Flour Tortillas These tortillas were fairly thin, and we
portions, about 2 tablespoons each; Cooled tortillas can be layered Price: $2.49 for 10 tortillas liked that they had noticeable “laky
roll each into smooth 1-inch ball between parchment paper, covered ($0.25 per tortilla) layers.” Quesadillas were pleasantly
Fat: 3 g Sodium: 160 mg “crispy and airy.” Their relatively low
between your hands. Transfer dough with plastic wrap, and refrigerated sodium level meant that they were
Average Thickness: 1.87 mm
balls to plate, cover with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days. To serve, discard “not superlavorful.”
and refrigerate until dough is firm, at plastic, cover tortillas with clean dish
least 30 minutes or up to 2 days. towel, and microwave at 50 percent Visit CooksCountry.com/jul18 to read the full testing story and see the expanded
3. Cut twelve 6-inch squares of power until heated through, about results chart, including two “Recommended with Reservations” products from
parchment paper. Roll 1 dough ball 20 seconds. Chi-Chi’s and Ortega.
16 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
GETTING
TO K N OW
Acid
In the test kitchen, we talk a lot about bal-
ance. For savory dishes, this means having
appropriate ratios of fat, salt, and acid. Like
salt, acid competes with bitter lavor com-
AC I DI C DAI RY
Buttermilk, yogurt, pounds in foods, reducing our perception of
sour cream, and even them and brightening other lavors. We often
Parmesan cheese all bring
season dishes not just with salt and pepper
We taste acidity as acid to the table as part of
their lavorful charm. but also with acid before serving. Sometimes
brightness or sharpness. you want to taste the acid, such as when you
squeeze lemon over a piece of ish. Other
WI NE
With too much acid, pH 4 times the efect is more subtle, as acid can
balance a dish and tease out other lavors
we pucker; with too A SPLAS H
without calling attention to itself: Just a dash
O F WH I T E
little, foods taste lat. While red wine is
also acidic, it lacks
of vinegar added at the end of cooking, for
BU T T ER M I LK instance, brings the lavors in a pot of soup
by Scott Kathan the clean lavor (and pH 4.5
color) of its white into sharper focus.
cousin. We use just a
tablespoon or two
of acidic dry white
wine to brighten
up sauces.
TO M ATO
DI L L P IC K L ES 4
pH 3.4 PARMIGIANO
VI NEGAR REGGIANO
pH 2 pH 5
YOGURT pH 4.4 MOLASSES
TO M ATO pH 5.5
pH 4
CO FFEE
pH 4.5
LEMO N pH 2
H O N EY pH 3.9
SOU R C R EAM
pH 4.6
L E M ON AN D VI NEGA R CREAM NATURAL
Cooks the world over turn to What Do pH Numbers Mean? OF TARTAR pH 5 COCOA
these sour, acidic ingredients to pH 5.6
enhance their recipes. We love
to cook not just with lemon juice
but with the fragrant yellow zest, 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Acids in Baked Goods
too. There are dozens of types of Acid Water Alkali Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)
vinegar, but potent distilled white (pH neutral) produces carbon dioxide when
is the most neutral-tasting.
activated with acidic liquids such as
The foods in the photo above fall into the pink-shaded area of the pH spectrum.
buttermilk or yogurt; this gas causes
batters to rise, and the heat of the
Acid in Marinades: oven then sets the risen batter. Baking
Don’t Do It Acid: Not Just About Flavor powder is a combination of baking
When meat is marinated in Tidier Poached Eggs Spud Supporter Buttermilk Browning Blocker soda and an acid salt (such as cream
acidic ingredients (such as Poaching eggs in Cooking cut pota- Substitute Rubbing cut avoca- of tartar), so it needs only moisture to
Italian dressing or barbecue acidulated water toes in acidulated Don’t have buttermilk dos, apples, or pears activate and produce carbon dioxide.
sauce), the acid can “cook” (water with vinegar or water helps the pota- on hand? Add 1 table- with lemon or lime
the meat’s exterior (in much lemon juice added) toes hold their shape spoon of lemon juice juice helps prevent
makes for neater as they soften. to 1 cup of milk and them from turning Funky Ferments
the same way that citrus
whites. We use a let it sit for 10 min- brown. Foods such as sauerkraut,
juice “cooks” ceviche),
ratio of 1 tablespoon utes to “clabber.” kosher dill pickles, kimchi, and
turning it mushy. We prefer
distilled white vinegar (This works with soy kombucha get their acidic tang
to season foods with acid
to 6 cups water. milk, too.) from natural fermentation. Over
after cooking, often via a
time, natural and healthy bacte-
postcooking marinade or a
ria convert sugar in the raw in-
Illustration: Jay Layman
lavorful sauce.
gredients into lactic acid, which
then “pickles” the food. Humans
have been preserving food via
fermentation for millennia.
18 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
Sweet and Tangy Pork Chops
by Ashley Moore
20 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
Milk Chocolate Revel Bars
This three-tiered cookie bar looked like it required three times the work.
We gave it a second look. by Katie Leaird
R E M E M B E R T H AT O AT M E A L the cookie bar. But with the added
cookie bar of your childhood? The one insurance from my wonder product,
with a creamy milk chocolate center? sweetened condensed milk, neither
One of our copy editors does. As soon of these concerns surfaced. The thick
as I described the three-layer treat that fudge layer did not leak through the
some call “revel bars,” she closed her crust, and I found that it could with-
eyes and traveled back to her Midwest- stand extra time in the oven, so I could
ern roots. “My mom made those when build all three layers at once and bake
I was a kid.” That’s all I needed to them together.
hear. I committed to creating a recipe My colleague was delighted with the
for this nostalgic favorite. chewy, sweet, oaty results, and so were
Making a three-layer cookie bar can the rest of my sweet-tooth tasters, but
be trying. Usually, the project involves I wanted one more thing: almonds.
assembling and baking the dessert in Adding a cup of chopped almonds
stages, probably juggling a few hot to the oat dough was an easy way to
pans along the way. I wanted some- boost flavor.
thing I could put together all at once With a cookie bar this good, I
and bake in one go. A standard trick decided to experiment with a couple
for this kind of cookie bar is to make of easy swap-in variations. Bittersweet
one dough work double duty. You can chips gave me a slightly less sweet
use part of the dough for a sturdy base version, and I created a third version
and then use the rest to create a crum- with butterscotch chips. I set all three
bly topping. I just needed to create the out for a final tasting . . . but before I
right dough. could tally the results, all three kinds
Intrigued by a recipe I found in our of bars had disappeared.
expansive cookbook library, I tried
grinding oats in the food processor MI L K CHO CO LATE REVEL BARS
before incorporating them into the Makes 24 bars
dough. This made tasty, oat-flavored If all you can find is an 11.5-ounce bag
cookies, but we missed the familiar of chocolate chips, there’s no need to
texture imparted by whole oats, so we buy a second bag to make up the extra
stuck with those. ½ ounce. Either light or dark brown
Most recipes for revel bars call for sugar may be used in this recipe.
semisweet or bittersweet chocolate,
but after consulting with my tasters, I 3 cups (9 ounces) old-fashioned
decided to go with crowd-pleasing milk rolled oats
chocolate. I started making the milky 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose lour
fudge filling on the stovetop, but once 11⁄2 cups packed (101⁄2 ounces)
I realized that the chocolate merely brown sugar
needed to melt, not cook, I moved to the 1 cup almonds, chopped
microwave. Instead of adding sugar and 1 teaspoon baking soda Brown sugar, almonds, and condensed milk give these chewy bars plenty of richness.
cream, I reached for a can of sweetened Salt
condensed milk. This thick, creamy 16 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, 2. Combine oats, flour, sugar, almonds, sprinkle pieces evenly over chocolate
product is milk that has had 60 percent plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter baking soda, and 1 teaspoon salt in large mixture. Bake until topping is golden
of its water removed and a hefty dose 2 large eggs bowl. Whisk melted butter, eggs, and brown, about 30 minutes. Transfer pan
of sugar added. It’s gently heated at 2 teaspoons vanilla extract vanilla together in second bowl. Stir to wire rack and let bars cool until set,
the factory to smooth out any graini- 2 cups (12 ounces) milk chocolate butter mixture into flour mixture until about 6 hours. Using foil overhang, lift
ness and make it resistant to curdling. chips dough forms. Set aside 1½ cups dough bars out of pan. Cut into 24 squares
Gently melting the butter, chocolate, 1 cup sweetened condensed milk for topping. Press remaining dough into and serve.
and sweetened condensed milk in the even layer in bottom of prepared pan.
microwave gave me a filling that was 1 . Adjust oven rack to middle position 3. Microwave chocolate chips, con- BUTTERSCOTCH REVEL BA RS
easy to incorporate and both sliceable and heat oven to 350 degrees. Make foil densed milk, ¼ teaspoon salt, and Substitute butterscotch chips for milk
and fudgy once baked and cooled. sling for 13 by 9-inch baking pan by remaining 2 tablespoons butter in bowl chocolate chips.
Finicky fillings and cookie doughs folding 2 long sheets of aluminum foil; at 50 percent power until chocolate
often have conflicting schedules; more first sheet should be 13 inches wide and chips are melted and mixture is fully DARK C HOCOL AT E REVE L BARS
delicate fillings curdle in the time it second sheet should be 9 inches wide. combined, 2 to 3 minutes, stirring Substitute bittersweet chocolate chips
takes the crust to fully bake, so you Lay sheets of foil in pan perpendicular occasionally. (Mixture will resemble for milk chocolate chips.
generally bake the crust and let it cool to each other, with extra foil hang- thick fudge.)
before adding the other layers. If the ing over edges of pan. Push foil into 4. Transfer chocolate mixture to pan Go to CooksCountry.com/milkchips
fudge is thin, it permeates the raw corners and up sides of pan, smoothing and spread evenly over crust to sides to read the full results of our tasting
crust and creates a soggy bottom on foil flush to pan. Grease foil. of pan. Crumble reserved dough and of milk chocolate chips.
22 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
M A L ASA DAS Key Steps to Flufy, Soft, Tender Malasadas
Makes 12 malasadas
This dough is very wet and sticky; be
sure to grease your hands to make it
easier to work with.
THE
AMERICAN
TABLE
If you’re in New Orleans, Rio de Janiero, or Venice, you’ll celebrate Mardi Gras
each February. But if you’re in Hawaii on that same pre-Lent Tuesday, you’ll
celebrate Malasada Day. Portuguese immigrants began arriving in Hawaii in
the 19th century. Because they were observant
A Well-Traveled
Catholics, the lead-up to Lent involved ridding their
Doughnut
homes of temptations such as lard and sugar. But
rather than toss them into the trash bin or lock them up out of sight, home
cooks would set to work cooking batch after batch of malasadas.
Soon enough, these sweet, soft, simple doughnuts—sometimes square or
Illustration: Ross MacDonald
Blueberry Cobbler
Dessert doesn’t have to be difficult to make. We top this simple summery cobbler
with lufy stir-and-drop buttermilk biscuits. by Katie Leaird
SUMMER BLUEBERRY COBBLER combine. Transfer berry mixture to 8-inch
Serves 8 square baking pan or ceramic dish.
You can substitute unthawed frozen blue- Place pan on prepared sheet and bake
berries for fresh berries, but increase the until illing is hot and starting to bubble
baking time in step 3 to 40 minutes. around edges, about 25 minutes. Transfer
sheet to wire rack and gently stir berry
BI SCUI T TOPPI NG mixture. Increase oven temperature to
11⁄2 cups (71⁄2 ounces) all-purpose lour 475 degrees.
5 teaspoons sugar 4. Once oven reaches 475 degrees, add
11⁄2 teaspoons baking powder buttermilk mixture to lour mixture and
1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda stir with rubber spatula until just incorpo-
1⁄2 teaspoon salt rated. Using greased 1⁄4-cup dry measuring
3⁄4 cup buttermilk cup, drop 9 scant scoops of dough, evenly
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, spaced, onto hot berry illing. Sprinkle tops
plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter with remaining 2 teaspoons sugar.
5. Bake until biscuits are golden brown
FI LLI NG and toothpick inserted in center biscuit
3⁄4 cup (51⁄4 ounces) sugar comes out clean, 12 to 14 minutes. Melt
1 tablespoon cornstarch remaining 1 tablespoon butter and brush
11⁄2 teaspoons grated lemon zest plus over biscuits. Let cobbler cool on wire
1 tablespoon juice rack for at least 30 minutes. Serve.
Pinch salt
30 ounces (6 cups) blueberries
Buying Blueberries
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and Our recipe calls for fresh blueberries,
heat oven to 375 degrees. Line rimmed but frozen are cheaper and work well
baking sheet with parchment paper. here, too (see recipe headnote). In
2. FO R TH E BISCUIT TO PPING: summer, some markets carry small
Whisk lour, 1 tablespoon sugar, baking wild blueberries, which have outsize
powder, baking soda, and salt together in lavor and are fantastic eaten out
large bowl; set aside. Stir buttermilk and of hand. But we don’t like to bake
melted butter together in 2-cup liquid with them, as their small size means
measuring cup (butter will clump; this is they break down more easily, result-
OK); set aside. ing in a illing with a homogeneous
3. FO R TH E F IL L ING: Combine sugar, texture. We recommend sticking with
cornstarch, lemon zest, and salt in large cultivated, full-size blueberries for
bowl. Add blueberries and lemon juice most baking applications.
and mix gently with rubber spatula to
Step by Step
1. Prepare oven and sheet 2. Mix dry ingredients 3. Mix buttermilk and butter 4. Make blueberry illing 5. Bake berries
Adjust the oven rack to the middle Whisk the lour, sugar, baking Stir the buttermilk and melted Combine the sugar, cornstarch, Transfer the berry mixture to a
position and heat the oven to 375 powder, baking soda, and salt butter together in a 2-cup liquid lemon zest, and salt. Add the square baking pan. Place the pan
degrees. Line a rimmed baking together in a large bowl; set aside. measuring cup; set aside. blueberries and lemon juice and on the prepared sheet and bake
sheet with parchment paper. Why? The biscuits need to be Why? Mixing melted butter into mix gently. until the berries are hot and start-
Why? The parchment protects stirred together at the last minute cold buttermilk creates clumps Why? Cornstarch thickens the ing to bubble around the edges.
the baking sheet (and the oven) in later in the recipe, so we prepare of butter that melt in the oven, illing without creating a starchy Why? We prebake the illing to
case the illing bubbles over. the dry ingredients ahead of time. creating steam that produces a texture; lemon helps balance the ensure that it is hot when we add
laky, light interior. sweetness with a touch of acidity. the biscuit topping.
24 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
Test Kitchen Tips for Making Any Fruit & Biscuit Cobbler Q&A
Bake the Fruit First Mix Biscuits at the Last Minute Can I bake this cobbler
It’s important that the fruit is hot Wait until just before baking to mix the in a glass dish?
when you drop the biscuit batter on premeasured wet and dry biscuit ingre- No. Be sure to use an 8-inch square
top—otherwise the bottoms of the bis- dients. This ensures that the leaveners ceramic dish or metal baking pan for this
cuits will be undercooked and gummy. (which are activated by liquid) will be at recipe. Do not use a Pyrex (or other glass)
full strength, contributing to a light and dish, as it is not safe at the 475-degree oven
lufy topping. temperature we call for.
Pro Baker’s Trick
When portioning batter or cookies Bake on a Rimmed Baking
with a measuring cup, greasing the Sheet Lined with Parchment
cup irst makes for an easy release. Add Lemon to the Filling Cobbler illing can bubble over and
We like to grease measuring cups with Lemon enhances the fruit’s lavor make a mess of your oven. Baking the
vegetable oil spray, but an even smear and balances the sweetness in cobbler on a rimmed baking sheet is
of vegetable oil or butter works, too. virtually any fruit dessert. good; covering the surface of the sheet
with parchment paper is even better.
CHOOSE WISELY
Our winning square baking pan is the
Williams Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick
Better Butters 8-Inch Square Cake Pan ($21.00) .
Our recipe testers sometimes ask us why
we use unsalted butter in recipes (as we What if I don’t have buttermilk?
do in our biscuit recipe here). The reason If you don’t have buttermilk on hand, the
is simple: Diferent salted butters contain test kitchen has two options for you. The
diferent amounts of irst option is to substitute clabbered (or
salt, so by calling for acidulated) milk for the buttermilk. To
unsalted butter, we make clabbered milk, stir 1 tablespoon of
can control the salt (preferably fresh) lemon juice into 1 cup
level to make sure our of milk (we don’t recommend skim milk
recipes work. In ad- here, but all other types will work just
dition, salted butters ine). Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes
almost always contain Clumpy Batter Leads to Steam (and Flufy Biscuits) to thicken. For a second, nondairy option,
more water than un- Traditional biscuit recipes call for cutting cold fat (butter or shortening) into the you can substitute soy milk or oat milk for
salted butters, and the lour before adding the liquid. Drop biscuits—including the ones we top the cob- the regular milk (note that clabbered soy
extra water can make for baked goods that bler with here—are easier: Just stir all the ingredients together, drop, and bake. milk will thicken like regular milk but oat
are a bit gummy. Our favorite “fancy” (and But some drop biscuits can turn out dense and compact, without the lakiness milk will not).
expensive) supermarket unsalted butter is and lightness we want in a biscuit. To create light and laky drop biscuits, we add
Plugrá European-Style, and Land O’Lakes melted butter to cold buttermilk. When combined with the cold buttermilk, the Go to CooksCountry.com/
Unsalted Sweet Butter is our favorite butter forms clumps. As those clumps of butter melt during baking, the water in parchment to learn about our
everyday option. the butter evaporates and creates steam, which lightens the biscuits. favorite parchment paper.
6. Stir berries and turn up oven 7. Stir together biscuit dough 8. Scoop and drop biscuits 9. Sprinkle with sugar and bake 10. Brush with butter
Transfer the sheet to a wire rack Once the oven reaches 475 de- Using a greased ¼-cup dry Sprinkle the tops with sugar and Melt the remaining butter and
and increase the oven tempera- grees, add the wet ingredients to measuring cup, drop nine scant bake until the biscuits are golden brush it over the biscuits. Let the
ture to 475 degrees. Stir the berry the dry; stir until just incorporated. scoops of dough, evenly spaced, brown and a toothpick comes out cobbler cool on a wire rack for
mixture while the oven heats. Why? Baking soda is activated as onto the hot berry illing. clean, 12 to 14 minutes. 30 minutes. Serve.
Why? The biscuits need a hotter soon as it’s mixed with liquid, so Why? The residual heat from Why? A inal sprinkling of sugar Why? Brushing the biscuits with
oven to rise and brown. We gently it’s best to wait until just before baking the berry illing helps cook before the cobbler goes into the a little melted butter while they’re
stir the berry mixture to even out baking to combine the buttermilk the biscuit dough through from oven creates crispy, craggy, hot keeps them moist and adds
its overall temperature. mixture and the lour mixture. the bottom up. golden-brown tops on the biscuits. extra buttery lavor.
Omelets
Our simple, no-fuss method takes the fear out of
making omelets. by Ashley Moore
B R E A K F A S T, B R U N C H , L U N C H , Sometimes a cheese omelet is just
dinner, even as a midnight snack—no the thing, but other times you want
matter when you eat them, omelets are something more. For one variation, I
quick, filling, and satisfying. But many relied on the tried-and-true combina-
cooks are intimidated at the prospect of tion of chopped ham steak and melty
making them at home—no one wants to American cheese. For a simple but
eat a rubbery or, worse, soupy omelet, flavorful variation, I added crumbled
and there’s always the fear of mangling feta cheese and chopped fresh dill; the
one. I wanted to soothe nerves and briny cheese and the grassy herb made
find an easy way to make tender, flufy a perfect pairing. Most diners ofer a
omelets with customizable stir-ins that Tex-Mex omelet, so for my version
required little to no cooking time. I added some grated Monterey Jack
Which kind of omelet was best here? cheese, tangy pickled jalapeños, and
A French omelet is lightly cooked; fresh cilantro. As a nod to a clas-
is very moist, pale, and smooth; and sic brunch ofering, I added smoked
is typically rolled into a cylinder. An salmon, softened cream cheese, and
American omelet is chunkier and more capers to my final version.
rustic; is cooked until lightly browned, Whichever variation you choose, Our Easy Cheddar Omelet finishes cooking—including melting the cheese—off the heat.
and is commonly served in a half-moon these omelets are easy to make and
shape. What I like best about the come together quickly—perfect for any
American style, though, is that it’s more time of day.
forgiving and less fussy. I was aiming for
somewhere in the middle: light and a bit E ASY CHEDDAR OMELET
refined but also sturdy and easy to make. Makes 1 omelet
You can’t make a proper omelet Spraying the skillet with vegetable oil
without the right pan, and a 10-inch spray adds an extra layer of insurance
nonstick skillet is the right tool for the to prevent your omelet from sticking.
job. A proper omelet should be cooked
in butter—it’s part of the flavor pro- 3 large eggs
file—but I found that coating the skillet 1⁄8 teaspoon salt
with vegetable oil spray before adding 1⁄8 teaspoon pepper
the butter provided extra insurance 1⁄2 tablespoon unsalted butter
against sticking and tearing (the fears 1 ounce cheddar cheese, shredded
of every omelet maker). And a rubber (1⁄4 cup) EASY HAM AN D CHEESE OMELET E ASY F E TA AND D IL L OME L E T
spatula is both firm enough to move the Decrease salt to pinch. Substitute 1 slice Decrease salt to pinch. Substitute 1⁄4 cup
eggs around the pan and gentle enough 1 . Whisk eggs, salt, and pepper in bowl deli American cheese, torn into 1-inch crumbled feta cheese for cheddar and
to not cause harm while doing so. until eggs are thoroughly combined and pieces, for cheddar. Add 2 ounces ham add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
After several days of experimenting mixture is pure yellow. Spray 10-inch steak, rind removed, cut into 1⁄4-inch before covering skillet in step 4.
(and my fair share of ruined omelets), nonstick skillet with vegetable oil spray. pieces, before covering skillet in step 4.
I landed on a solid technique. I began 2 . Melt butter in skillet over medi-
by heating a thick pat of butter in the um-high heat, swirling to coat skillet
sprayed skillet over medium-high heat. bottom. When foaming subsides, add
After whisking three eggs with a bit of egg mixture and cook, gently stirring
salt and pepper, I added them to the and scraping bottom of skillet with
skillet. I gently stirred with a rubber rubber spatula in circular motion until
spatula until large curds began to form, large curds begin to form and bare
and then I tilted the skillet to direct any spots are visible on bottom of skillet,
uncooked egg into the gaps I’d created. about 20 seconds.
After a gentle swipe of any cooked egg 3. Tilt skillet so uncooked eggs fill bare
that had climbed up the pan’s sides, I let spots. Run spatula around edge of skillet
the eggs sit undisturbed for 30 seconds, and push cooked eggs down of sides.
until they were just set. Then I took the Let cook, undisturbed, until bottom of
skillet of the heat, added some grated omelet is just set but top is still slightly
cheddar cheese, covered the skillet, and wet, about 30 seconds.
let the residual heat melt the cheese and 4. Remove skillet from heat. Sprinkle EASY TEX-MEX OMELET E ASY S MOKE D SAL MON OME L E T
finish cooking the omelet. cheddar over half of omelet. Cover and Substitute shredded Monterey Jack Decrease salt to pinch. Substitute 1 ounce
After a quick fold, my omelet hit the let sit until cheese has melted, about cheese for cheddar and add 1 tablespoon crumbled, softened cream cheese for
plate hot, golden brown, and perfectly 1 minute. Fold unfilled half of omelet minced pickled jalapeños and 1 table- cheddar. Add 1 ounce chopped smoked
cooked. The quick cooking time means over filled half to create half-moon spoon minced fresh cilantro before cover- salmon; 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and
that you can make several in a row to shape. Holding plate in 1 hand, tilt ing skillet in step 4. minced; and 1 tablespoon minced fresh
feed everybody at the table. skillet to slide omelet onto plate. Serve. chives before covering skillet in step 4.
26 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
COOKING FOR TWO
28 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
SLOW COOKER
Pork Posole
This hearty, comforting, lively Mexican soup deserves a wider audience.
by Matthew Fairman
Plastic Wrap
Using plastic wrap can be an exercise in frustration. Could we ind a stress-free version? by Miye Bromberg
30 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
P R O D U C T TA S T I N G
Hot
Sauce
Which all-around sauce
strikes the best balance RECOM M ENDED TASTERS’ NOTES
between ire and lavor? Frank’s RedHot Original Our favorite hot sauce had a thick texture
Cayenne Pepper Sauce and “vibrant” lavor that was “tangy” and
by Emily Phares Price: $3.49 for 12 oz “not too hot.” When used in our Bufalo
($0.29 per oz) Wing Sauce, it created a “good coating”
Pepper Type: Aged cayenne on chicken wings; it was “full-lavored,”
peppers with a “hint of sweet” on grits. Tasters
THE HOT SAUCE market is, well, In addition to varying heat levels, SHU: 690 even liked it plain, praising its “assertive”
hot. While hot sauces haven’t caught our lineup featured an array of tex- Sodium: 190 mg lavor that left a pleasant aftertaste.
up to mayonnaise or ketchup, the tures, from thin and watery to viscous
top-selling condiments in America, and gritty. But as with our response Original Louisiana Brand This “thin” sauce’s “hard-hitting heat”
they reached more than $538 million in to heat levels, we didn’t have a clear Hot Sauce was “bold” but balanced by a “fruity,”
sales in 2017—an increase of more than texture preference; tasters found even Price: $1.29 for 6 oz “sweet” lavor. There was a “good amount
30 percent since 2012. These sauces are the “gritty” product perfectly accept- ($0.22 per oz) of burn,” as its Scoville rating indicates,
Pepper Type: “A special blend of aged but we liked its “depth” and “layers of
traditionally made of peppers, vinegar, able in all applications. Our favorite peppers” lavor.” Tasters also thought it clung nicely
and salt, and we use them to liven up hot sauce was on the thicker side, while SHU: 1,700 to chicken wings.
dishes ranging from eggs to wings. the runner-up was relatively thin. Sodium: 200 mg
In a previous tasting, we declared What mattered most was hot sauce
Huy Fong Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce our that wasn’t just heat. Tasters preferred Tapatío With the highest SHU rating in the lineup,
favorite. But since then, we’ve come to complex flavor; our favorite sauces were Hot Sauce this sauce had “lots of heat,” which “builds
Price: $2.19 for 10 oz and lingers,” with some tasters noting that
think of Sriracha as a separate category tangy and sweet, with discernible heat. it was “sweet at irst, then spicy.” It had
($0.22 per oz)
of hot sauce. It typically includes sugar By contrast, our lowest-ranked sauce Pepper Type: Not disclosed “a lot of complexity,” with a “fruity and
and is more garlic-forward, with less was deemed hot but flavorless—or, as SHU: 3,000 smoky” lavor that our panel thought was
of a vinegary tang. Plus, traditional one taster put it, “all pain, no gain.” Sodium: 110 mg “delicious.” Its “thick,” “gritty” texture was
noteworthy but inofensive.
hot sauce and Sriracha often produce The top two products in our lineup
noticeably diferent results when used listed peppers as their first ingredient,
in large amounts. So we set out to find meaning they had a higher ratio of Texas Pete We especially liked this “tangy,” “peppery”
a new traditional hot sauce winner, with peppers to other ingredients. Addition- Original Hot Sauce sauce plain, with its “smooth, buttery
plans to publish the results of a Sriracha ally, both products’ labels specified Price: $2.19 for 12 oz texture” and “good balance of heat and
($0.18 per oz) vinegar.” It tasted a bit “sweet” on grits,
sauce tasting in a future issue. that the peppers had been aged. Our Pepper Type: Proprietary blend and we liked its “mild heat” on chicken
We selected the seven top-selling science editor explained that the natural of cayenne peppers wings: It “builds slowly” toward a “good
nationally available North American fermentation that happens during this SHU: 710 spice inish.”
hot sauces based on sales data from IRI, aging process (the salted pepper mash is Sodium: 90 mg
Pickled
Watermelon
Rind
RECIPE INDEX FIND THE ROOSTER!
PI CK L ED WATERMELON RIN D
A tiny version of this rooster has been
Makes about 1 quart Main dishes hidden in the pages of this issue. Write to
Depending on the size of your jar, you Grilled Flank Steak with Soy Dressing 10
us with its location, and we’ll enter you in
may have extra brine. The important Grilled Mojo Chicken 12
a random drawing. The first correct entry
thing is to make sure the rind is fully Grilled Strip Steaks with Green Rice
drawn will win our favorite plastic wrap, and
submerged. You can experiment and and Cilantro Sauce RC
each of the next five will receive a free
add diferent combinations of spices to Italian Sausages with Balsamic
one-year subscription to Cook’s Country.
the brine. Stewed Tomatoes RC
To enter, visit CooksCountry.com/rooster
Jalapeño-Apricot Glazed Pork Chops 19
by July 30, 2018, or write to Rooster JJ18,
2 pounds watermelon rind Korean Sizzling Beef Lettuce Wraps RC
Cook’s Country, 21 Drydock Avenue, Suite
1⁄2 cinnamon stick Lemon-Herb Pork Tenderloin with
210E, Boston, MA 02210. Include your name
11⁄4 cups cider vinegar Green Beans RC
This recipe was buried in a recipe box and address. Pam Bonham of Squaw Valley,
11⁄4 cups sugar One-Batch Fried Chicken 7
California, found the rooster in the
that belonged to my grandmother. She 11⁄2 teaspoons salt One-Pan Crab Cakes with Roasted Corn
February/March 2018 issue on page 18
grew up at a time when pickling pro- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns and Old Bay Fries 28
and won our favorite kitchen tongs.
duce wasn’t done for fun but to ensure a 1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds Pan-Seared Chicken with Arugula
1 teaspoon coriander seeds Pesto Farfalle RC
full winter larder. These crunchy little WEB EXTRAS
Roasted Chicken Thighs with
bites are full of flavor and fun to eat. 1 . Using vegetable peeler, remove green Giardiniera Relish RC Free for four months online at
—TUCKER SHAW
skin from watermelon rind; discard. Shrimp and Green Bean Stir-Fry for Two 27 CooksCountry.com
Editor in Chief Using spoon, scrape any remaining pink Slow-Cooker Pork Posole 29 Grilled Flank Steak with Basil Dressing
flesh from white rind; discard. Cut rind Smoked Fish Tacos 15 Tasting Canned Tomatoes
into 2 by ½-inch strips. Steak Pizzaiola 18 Tasting Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
2 . Combine rind and cinnamon stick Tasting Flour Tortillas
in 1-quart glass jar with tight-fitting Side dishes Tasting Lemon Curd
lid. Combine vinegar, sugar, salt, pep- Cheesy Ranch Potatoes 9
Tasting Milk Chocolate Chips
percorns, mustard seeds, and coriander Grilled Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus 11
Tasting Supermarket Prosciutto
seeds in small saucepan. Bring to boil Kentucky Red Slaw 8
Testing Chimney Starters
over medium-high heat. Pour brine Pickled Watermelon Rind 32
into jar, making sure all rind pieces are Testing Nonstick Skillets
submerged. Let cool completely, about Sandwiches Testing Parchment Paper
1 hour. Open-Faced Chicken, Bacon, and
3. Aix jar lid and refrigerate for at Cheddar Melts RC
least 2 hours before serving. (Pickles Philadelphia Pork Sandwiches 5
will keep, refrigerated, for at least
1 week.) Salads
Southwestern Tomato and Corn Salad 13
We’re looking for recipes that you treasure—the ones that have been handed down in your Vegetarian Cobb Salad RC
family for a generation or more, that always come out for the holidays, and that have earned
a place at your table and in your heart through many years of meals. Send us the recipes that Breakfast
spell home to you. Visit CooksCountry.com/recipe_submission (or write to Heirloom Recipes, Easy Cheddar Omelet 26
Cook’s Country, 21 Drydock Avenue, Suite 210E, Boston, MA 02210) and tell us a little about Feta and Dill 26
the recipe. Include your name and mailing address. If we print your recipe, you’ll receive a free Ham and Cheese 26
one-year subscription to Cook’s Country. Smoked Salmon 26
Tex-Mex 26 READ US ON IPAD
Peach Cofee Cake 20
COMING NEXT ISSUE Download the Cook’s Country app for
iPad and start a free trial subscription or
Summer is road trip season, and this Accompaniment
purchase a single issue of the magazine. All
year we’re headed to Texas, where Homemade Taco-Size Flour Tortillas 16
issues are enhanced with full-color Cooking
we’ll uncover the secrets to making
Mode slide shows that provide step-by-step
superjuicy Smoked Brisket at home. Sweets
instructions for completing recipes, plus
We’ll turn north to learn about Chicago Frozen Lemonade Cake
expanded reviews and ratings. Go to
Thin-Crust Pizza, a cracker-crust pie INSIDE BACK COVER
CooksCountry.com/iPad to download our
with cheese sprinkled all the way to the Malasadas 23
app through iTunes.
edge. Blueberry Cornbread from North Milk Chocolate Revel Bars 21
Carolina and a Virginia Peanut Pie Butterscotch 21
round out the menu. Come along for the Dark Chocolate 21
ride in our August/September issue! Summer Blueberry Cobbler 24
RC=Recipe Card
32 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 8
Grilled Strip Steaks with Roasted Chicken Thighs
Green Rice and Cilantro Sauce with Giardiniera Relish
1 (16-ounce) jar giardiniera, chopped, plus 1 tablespoon brine 3 cups fresh cilantro leaves and stems, chopped coarse
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1⁄4 teaspoon red pepper lakes Salt and pepper
8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed 1⁄4 teaspoon red pepper lakes
Salt and pepper 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup long-grain white rice
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. 2 (1-pound) strip steaks, trimmed and halved crosswise
Combine giardiniera and brine, 1⁄4 cup oil, parsley, and pepper lakes in
bowl. Set aside. 1. Pulse cilantro, vinegar, garlic, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper,
2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. and pepper lakes in food processor until inely chopped, about 12 pulses.
Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high Transfer to bowl and stir in 1⁄2 cup oil; set aside.
heat until just smoking. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook until well 2. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add rice and
browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip chicken and transfer skillet to oven. Cook 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until rice is tender, about
until chicken registers 175 degrees, about 15 minutes. Transfer chicken 12 minutes. Drain rice in ine-mesh strainer and return it to saucepan.
to platter and top with relish. Serve. Stir 3 tablespoons cilantro sauce into rice. Cover and set aside.
3. Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Brush steaks with remaining
TEST KITCHEN NOTE: Serve with roasted potatoes or crusty bread. 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over hot ire until
meat registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 4 to 8 minutes per side.
Serve with rice and remaining cilantro sauce.
TEST KITCHEN NOTE: California Olive Ranch Everyday Extra Virgin Olive
Oil is our preferred supermarket extra-virgin olive oil.
11⁄2 pounds Italian sausage 1 English cucumber, halved and sliced thin
1 large onion, halved and sliced 1⁄4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
1⁄4 cup white wine 1⁄4 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons Sriracha sauce
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons soy sauce
Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
11⁄2 pounds plum tomatoes, cored and chopped 4 garlic cloves, minced
1⁄4 cup fresh basil leaves, torn 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
11⁄2 pounds 85 percent lean ground beef
1. Combine sausages, onion, wine, 1 tablespoon oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 head Bibb lettuce (8 ounces), leaves separated
1 tablespoon water, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper in 12-inch
nonstick skillet and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook 1. Combine cucumber and vinegar in bowl; set aside. Combine mayon-
until sausages are gray and onion is tender, about 8 minutes. naise and Sriracha in second bowl; set aside. Combine soy sauce, sugar,
2. Uncover and increase heat to medium-high. Continue to cook until garlic, and oil in third bowl.
sausages are browned and register 160 degrees, about 3 minutes longer. 2. Cook beef in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until any juices
Transfer sausages to platter. have evaporated and beef begins to fry in its own fat, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Add tomatoes, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and remaining 1 table- Add soy sauce mixture to skillet and cook until nearly evaporated, about
spoon vinegar to skillet. Cook until tomatoes begin to break down and 2 minutes. To serve, ill lettuce leaves with beef mixture and top with
sauce has thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in basil and season with salt pickled cucumbers and Sriracha mayonnaise.
and pepper to taste. Pour tomato mixture over sausages. Serve.
TEST KITCHEN NOTE: Rice also makes a great accompanying illing for
TEST KITCHEN NOTE: Serve with crusty bread or polenta. these lettuce wraps.
Frozen
Lemonade
Cake
For a refreshing, all-American summer dessert, we start with a crisp animal-cracker
crust and layer on lemonade-lavored ice cream and sweet-tart lemon curd. by Katie Leaird
TO MAKE THIS CAKE, YOU WILL NEED: 30 seconds. Add melted butter and pulse whipped topping in separate bowl until
until combined, about 8 pulses. Transfer combined. Spread lemon curd
5 ounces animal crackers crumb mixture to greased 9-inch spring- mixture in even layer over frozen ice cream
3 tablespoons sugar form pan. Using bottom of dry measuring layer. Return pan to freezer until irm,
Pinch salt cup, press crumb mixture irmly into bot- about 1 hour. Let remaining half of ice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted tom of pan. Bake crust until fragrant and cream mixture soften, then spread over
2 pints vanilla ice cream, softened beginning to brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Let frozen lemon curd layer, smoothing top
16 ounces Cool Whip Whipped cool completely, about 30 minutes. with ofset spatula. Freeze cake until fully
Topping, thawed irm, at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours.
1 (12-ounce) container frozen FO R T HE CAKE: Stir ice cream,
lemonade concentrate, thawed 2½ cups whipped topping, and lemonade TO SERV E: Remove side of pan. Trans-
2 (10.5-ounce) jars lemon curd concentrate in bowl until combined. Pour fer cake to cake plate or pedestal. Smooth
1 teaspoon yellow gel food coloring half of ice cream mixture into cooled crust sides of cake with ofset spatula. Dip 1-inch
and smooth top with ofset spatula. Trans- paintbrush in remaining ½ teaspoon food
FOR TH E C RUST: Adjust oven rack to fer pan and bowl with remaining ice cream coloring and lightly drag across top of
middle position and heat oven to 325 de- mixture to freezer and freeze until irm, cake, painting straight yellow stripes 2 to Go to CooksCountry.com/curd to
grees. Process crackers, sugar, and salt in about 1 hour. Stir lemon curd, ½ teaspoon 3 inches long, refreshing brush with food ind out which jarred lemon curd was
food processor until inely ground, about food coloring, and remaining 2½ cups coloring as needed. Slice and serve. our tasters’ favorite.
INSIDE THIS ISSUE
RC Korean Sizzling Beef Lettuce Wraps RC Sausages with Stewed Tomatoes 5 Philadelphia Pork Sandwiches 28 One-Pan Crab Cakes with Corn 11 Grilled Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus
13 Southwestern Tomato and Corn Salad 23 Malasadas 10 Grilled Flank Steak with Soy Dressing 15 Smoked Fish Tacos RC Roasted Chicken with Giardiniera
27 Shrimp and Green Bean Stir-Fry 12 Grilled Mojo Chicken RC Chicken, Bacon, and Cheddar Melts 26 Easy Ham and Cheese Omelet 29 Slow-Cooker Pork Posole
20 Peach Cofee Cake 19 Jalapeño-Apricot Glazed Pork Chops RC Vegetarian Cobb Salad 21 Milk Chocolate Revel Bars 18 Steak Pizzaiola
RC Strip Steaks with Green Rice 7 One-Batch Fried Chicken 8 Kentucky Red Slaw RC Lemon-Herb Pork Tenderloin 9 Cheesy Ranch Potatoes