Almofada de Pescoço

© 2013-16 by eSheep Designs | reproduction in whole or in part without expressed written consent is prohibited
M IY ( Ma k e i t Yo u r s ) B AG
pattern & tutorial
eSheepDesigns.blogspot.com
MAKE IT YOURS BAG by eSheep Designs © 2013-16 by
Introducing the MAKE IT YOURS BAG

Looking for a no-nonsense bag that is uniquely yours and yours alone? Have you made complex bags that didn’t
seem to work out so well for you in actual use? Perhaps you’re looking for a project for gift-giving that’s quick, easy
and won’t break your budget?
I have the solution: the MAKE IT YOURS BAG! So named because you can truly make it
your own by including whatever features you want and doing away with what you don’t
need. With just one basic pattern, you can make a customized “packed to the gills”
version for yourself and then make simple ones to give away or sell. In any event, even
the most complex version of this bag is a fairly easy project for an intermediate sewer (or
an intermediate project for a beginner sewer). Jazz it up as little or as much as you want,
depending on your skill set.
What exactly is so great about the MAKE IT YOURS BAG? It is sophisticated in its
simplicity and stylish in a way that suits anyone for any occasion. Depending on the fabric you choose, it can be
dressed up or down. The bag consists of just one big main compartment that closes with a magnetic snap (or not –
see what I mean about it being your choice?), but it can be made with so many pockets that you will have a place for
everything. It’s also an ideal design for those who carry purse organizers (I have a free pattern for that too), because
having just one main compartment is very user-friendly for dropping in an organizer.
The inside of this bag has two pen pockets, a cell

phone pocket, three vertical card slots (big
enough to hold a package of gum), two loops at
either end for glasses (sun or reading), and a
zippered pocket (on the opposite side).
The bag’s exterior sports two zippered pockets

on one side, and a full-width, full-height “hidden”
slip pocket on the other.
MAKE IT YOURS BAG pattern & tutorial – please do not copy or resell Page 1
Who is This Pr ojec t For?

Well, for you, hopefully.
I designed this for the imaginative, adventurous and slightly rebellious crafter who has, in the past, come to an
instruction in a pattern/tutorial and said, “Well, I don’t want to do that – I can do this instead.” Or, when faced with
fabric constraints, decides that “I am going to make this, but I’ll shorten it up here and do away with this piece!” If
you don’t like a feature or don’t feel like making it, then don’t. This is for the seamstress who knows that no one is
looking over her shoulder, waiting to rap her knuckles for not following the directions. Sewing, after all, is not an exact
science. And craft sewing is all about imagination and inspiration. This is your opportunity to explore the possibilities!
P r er equisit es ?
In case you were wondering, you don’t have to have a whole lot of experience in bag making. You do need to have
sewing experience, but there too, not necessarily years and years. Let’s just say that if know the basics and you’ve
been successful at making one bag with pockets, zipper(s) and a lining while following detailed instructions, then this
will not be overwhelming for you. On the other side of the coin, if you need hand-holding, you won’t get that here.
Above all, this project is meant for someone who wants to have fun while making a bag that will be truly yours. You
get to be in charge of how you want your bag to turn out, and not just in terms of fabric choice.
How often have you thought that only the expert designers could do that?
What’s I ncluded
Within these pages, you will find the following:
Pattern pieces for the MAKE IT YOURS BAG (plus complete measurements for any pieces for which cutting
templates are not provided or that are optional)
Instructions for cutting & interfacing
Considerations for designing your bag
List of fabric & notions requirements (plus tips for searching out unusual sources of fabric)
Sewing & assembly instructions with photos
Tips and hints for customizing your bag
Pattern Pieces Required

The pieces for which you will find cutting templates are shown here: #1 (template for the PLEATED BAG BODY), #2
(template for the PLAIN BAG BODY), and #3 (template for the GUSSET). Each piece has a part A and a part B that are
taped together. Note that the templates sized for actual printing are located at the back of this document.
NOTE: A seam allowance of one half inch (1/2” or 13mm) has been included in the pattern pieces. Unless otherwise
indicated, sew all seams at 1/2” or 13mm. Or not… using a smaller seam allowance will generally result in
a slightly bigger bag, that’s all.
P at tern In str ucti ons

When joining the two parts of each pattern piece, do not overlap anything when you tape them together.
For interfacing, you may want to

draw a line just a little over a 1/2
inch (13mm) from the outside
edges of the required pattern
pieces (as I have done in the
picture here) and use that marking
as your cutting guide. (The point
being that when you have multiple
layers of fusible interfacing and
fleece, it is always easier when you
don’t have to include them in your
seams.)
P ri ntin g th e Pa tt er n P iec es
The pattern pieces have their approximate dimensions written on them, so you can check for accuracy after printing
one of them. PRINT AT FULL SIZE; DO NOT SCALE.
Keep in mind, however, that if your pattern prints out slightly smaller/bigger, your printer will behave consistently on
all pieces, so it doesn’t really matter (other than that the finished bag size will be slightly smaller/bigger too). A little
bit of the unexpected would be in keeping with the spirit of this project!
P a tte r n Pi ec es Wi tho u t Cut ti n g T em pl at es

The pieces described here must be measured and cut out. Print out this page (for each bag that you make) and use
the boxes as labels to identify your fabric pieces. Use the checkboxes to track each individual piece as you cut it out.
You will need #4 and #5 regardless of what version you make; all others are optional. Use the blank box to fill in
whatever else you might need (for example, additional pockets of differing sizes).
#4 – TOP BAND * #5 – STRAPS
14.5” x 3.75” (37cm x 9.5cm) 25” x 5.5” (63.5cm x 14cm)

(go as narrow as 3” or 8cm if desired) (can go as narrow as 4” or 10cm)
Cut 4 Contrasting Fabric Cut 2 Main Fabric

Cut 2 Fusible Interfacing (at 13.5” x 2.75” or 34cm x 7cm) Cut 2 Fusible Interfacing (at 25” x 2.75” or 63.5cm x 7cm
Cut 2 Fusible Fleece (at 13.5” x 2.75” or 34cm x 7cm) – or half of whatever width you use)
#6 – INTERIOR PATCH POCKET #7 – DUAL ZIPPERED POCKET LINING
9”w x 6”l (23cm x 15cm) 12”w x 14”l (30.5 x 35.5cm)

(feel free to adjust this)
Cut 1 in your choice of fabric
Cut 2 in your choice of fabric
#8 – SINGLE ZIPPERED POCKET LINING #9 – SET OF 3 CARD SLOTS
8.5”w x 12”l (21.5cm x 30.5cm) 3.5”w x 25”l (9cm x 63.5cm)

(width is for a 7”or 18cm zipper) (use 19” for 2 slots)
Cut 1 in your choice of fabric Cut 1 in your choice of fabric
#10 – SUNGLASSES LOOP * Because the top of this bag is so open,
1.5” x 5.5” (4cm x 14cm)

I prefer the look of the top band with the same fabric
both inside and out, but of course, you can use lining
Cut 1 (for each loop) in your choice of fabric
fabric for the two inside pieces if you want.
(depending on fabric, you may want to interface)
Finished bag size (gusseted version) is approximately 14” x 11.5” (tall) x 4”

(35.5cm x 29cm x 10cm), with handle drop of 11.5” (29cm).
Design Your Bag

Because this is a customized project, you will need to make some design decisions before you start cutting.
Ste p 1: Re ad E ver ythi ng!

Again, given the nature of this project, it would be good to read through the whole thing before starting. Custom-
ization hints are scattered throughout, but actually implementing some of them will require advance planning that is
not accounted for in the general instructions.
So if you’re really rebellious and want to jump right in, right now: you’ve been warned.
Ste p 2: Ple ated or No t?

And if you choose to pleat, to what extent will you pleat? A pleated bag looks great, but yes, it does take extra time to
do and the pleats sort of dictate what type of pockets you can add “on top”. For example, if you want a large exterior
zippered pocket, you might choose to pleat the front side
of your bag but leave the back side plain to accommodate
a horizontal zipper. If you pleat both sides of your bag,
installing a single zippered pocket may have to be done
more creatively; i.e., vertically. It’s why this bag here has
two angled zippered pockets, strategically placed between
pleats. (Not to say that it’s impossible to place a
horizontal zipper amid vertical pleats… if you space two
pleats sufficiently far apart, you could conceivably fit a 5”
or 13cm zipper in between.)
Of course, if you don’t care about exterior zippered pockets at all, then go ahead and pleat both sides – it looks nice.
On the other hand, pleats drive some folks crazy, so if you don’t want to bother with them, use pattern piece #2 for
your bag front, back and lining.
Ste p 3: Gusse t or No Gusse t?

I will admit it: making this bag without the gusset is much easier! (The two ends of this particular gusset can be a bit
tricky to sew.) But having it gives you more room inside, provides a base for the bag, and offers a different look,
especially if you use contrasting fabric for the gusset (for example, to match the top band). That said, if you want a
truly simple project – but smaller bag – you can just slap together two front and back panels of your choice (i.e.,
pleated or not pleated) and sew them together…
Go Ah e ad , Ch an ge th e P att er n!
Then again, if you want to omit the gusset and retain the intended finished size of the bag, you can lengthen and
widen the bottom part of the #1 and/or #2 pattern templates before you cut your fabric. Add an additional 1.5” or
4cm along the bottom of the pattern piece, swing it out as wide as you want, and then taper up the side, until it meets
back even with the top
edge. I did a quick
drawing with my
pattern piece #2 here,
to show you what I
mean.
Don’t be afraid to do
this, since the
construction of this
bag without the gusset
is just so simple. All
you need to be
concerned with
afterwards is that the
front and back panels
fit together.
Ste p 4: Wh at Fe at ures?
What pockets and other neat stuff do you want your bag to have? You will need to manage your fabric requirements
around your choices.
E x t e ri o r Co ns i de r ati o ns
If you want to add the hidden slip pocket that covers the whole front “face” of your bag, you will need another of the
#2 pattern pieces. (For the best looking results, use a pleated front panel on top of a plain one.)
The addition of any type of zippered pocket will require a piece of fabric for the lining of the pocket. The good news is
that if you have fabric constraints, you can adjust the size of any pocket quite easily.
I n te rio r Co ns i d er atio n s
The bag shown in the picture on page 1 has a combination cell phone slip pocket/vertical card slots/dual pen pocket
with a finished width of 8.5” or approximately 22cm on one side of the lining. (It is constructed from three pieces, with
the two patch pockets on either side hiding the seams of the card slot assembly.) Aim for no wider than about 9.5” or
24cm in terms of whatever interior pockets you choose to install.
The most common choice would be to put in a zippered pocket on the opposite side of the lining. If zippers aren’t
your favourite thing, however, you could go with slip pockets on both sides.
If you need even more storage, you can always put a second patch pocket on top of a zippered pocket.
Finally, you can add loops to the side seam of the top band to hang your sunglasses. These loops can also be used to
attach a carabineer for keys and such.
B ag Clo s u re O ptio ns
You can choose, of course, to leave the bag open. The standard closure is a magnetic snap. You can also consider
using hook and loop fasteners, adding a weighted flap, or installing a recessed zipper. (Instructions for the latter are
not provided.) Adding a flap or recessed zipper will affect the construction of the bag around the top band pieces.
Ste p 5: Gather Fabric & No tion s

Here’s what you will need to make the MAKE IT YOURS BAG (apart from your sewing machine):
Main fabric* (body panels, straps, gusset)

Lining fabric* (body panels, gusset)
Contrast/main fabric* (top band, zippered pocket linings, interior slip pockets)
Approximately 3/4 yard or metre of Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece (or equivalent lightweight fusible fleece)
Approximately 3/4 yard or metre of Pellon 809 Décor Bond fusible interfacing (or equivalent)
Coordinating or contrasting thread
6”, 7” or 8” (15cm 18cm, or 20cm) zipper(s), bias trims, lace, ribbon, buttons (as required)
Optional piece of Pellon fusible Peltex for gusset
Sewing tools (zipper foot, stitch ripper, marking pen, scissors, Fray Check, etc.)
Iron (and pressing cloth if required)
Magnetic snap set (or Velcro if you prefer)
* F a bri c No t es
It is almost impossible to
specify exactly how much
fabric you will need since
how you intend to finish your
bag will influence how much
is required. Generally
speaking, you can make the
bag with 1 yard/metre of 44”
(112cm) wide main fabric
and 3/4 yard/metre of 44”
(112cm) wide lining fabric. I
recommend that you print
out all required cutting templates first, to figure out your personal fabric requirements based on the features you
select.
Cut Fabric & Attach Interfacing

Once you have decided how you want to construct your bag, cut the fabric and attach interfacing where required or
where applicable. (Apply Fray Check if needed to save yourself headaches from seeing your fabric unravel every time
you touch it.) Choice of fabric will dictate whether or not you need to interface all of your exterior pieces. If you use
home décor fabrics, you could conceivably just add fleece to the bag’s lining and be done with it. I tend to stick with
quilting cottons (and sometimes even lighter weight poly-cotton blends), so I interface all of my exterior pieces and
apply fleece to the main body panels.
In terf aci ng & Prep ping

Here are the suggested interfacing requirements for each pattern piece; if not listed here, no interfacing is required.
PIECE INTERFACING FLEECE

#1 – PLEATED BAG BODY YES MAYBE *
#2 – PLAIN BAG BODY YES YES
#2 – PLAIN BAG BODY LINING x 2 NO MAYBE *
#3 – GUSSET YES YES (consider using Peltex if you prefer a
firmer base)
#4 – TOP BAND EXTERIOR x 2 YES YES
#5 – STRAPS YES NO
#9 – CARD SLOTS PARTIAL, IF DESIRED (do so after folding, NO
just under each fold)
#10 – SUNGLASSES LOOP IF NEEDED NO
* It may be difficult to pleat the #1 piece if you apply both standard interfacing and fusible fleece to it, especially if
you leave the interfacing out of the seam allowance as suggested. Two solutions: 1) apply the fleece to the bag’s
lining pieces instead of its outside panels (i.e., the exterior body panels would just have normal interfacing), or 2) cut
both types of interfacing even with the top edge of the exterior fabric piece where the pleats will be made (that is – in
this particular case – it will be easier to fold the pleats if you include the interfacing in the seam allowance).
M ar k M a gn etic S nap Pl ac e m ent

If using a magnetic snap closure, mark the intended placement of the snap assembly on the wrong side of each of the
two interior #4 TOP BAND pieces. Use the “washers” that come with the snap set as a template for the markings.
Sewing Instructions
As I stated earlier, this project is designed for the adventurous and slightly rebellious crafter with previous sewing
experience. You don’t need to have loads of experience, but you should definitely know basic techniques and have
proven success in producing good results by following a detailed tutorial.
With that thought in mind, this is not going to be a detailed tutorial in the way that you might be expecting. I will not
be providing “stich by stich” instructions. For example, you won’t be told to secure your stitching by back tacking at
the start and finish of each bit of sewing, but I assume you know to do so. I also assume that you have appropriate
resources at hand should you need specific, detailed instruction on any specific process. Many, many, many really
great tutorials can be found online that don’t need to be reinvented or repeated.
One more note: given the free-form approach to this project, go ahead and complete your bag in whatever sequence
you choose. Obviously, some steps must be completed in a specific order to make sense, but you get the point. These
instructions will start with the straps and the bag’s exterior, but if you want to begin with the lining, go for it.
Str ap s
The straps for this bag are the simple “no turn” variety (folded like bias tape) that are as easy as pie to make.
(Actually much easier than pie…have you ever made pie? From scratch? I’d much rather make purse straps.)
Ensure that you have fused the interfacing onto the centre of each strap. Fold each strap in half lengthwise and
press; then open it up again.
Fold both sides in towards the centre crease until they almost touch in the middle; press. Fold the whole thing in
half again and press. Clip together to keep everything straight.
Sew down both sides of the straps, close to the edge. Add another row of stitching 1/4" or 6mm away from the
first.
Finish up by adding whatever other sort of topstitching that turns your crank. Then repeat the whole process with the
other strap.
C u s to mi ze I t
TRIM> I had some coordinating bias tape from my fabric source that I
repurposed by sewing it down the middle of these straps, providing visual
interest. You might also try rickrack, lace, or ribbon.
HARDWARE > If you have experience with installing purse hardware, you
could attach the straps to the body of the bag with rings and tabs. (By the
way, your finished straps are roughly one quarter of the width of the fabric
you started out with, so if you use a narrower – say 4”or 10cm – piece of
fabric, you will end up with straps that are approximately 1” or 2.5cm wide.)
P leated B ag Body
Follow this process for each of your #1 PLEATED BAG BODY pieces. For
If you are making a plain body, you
the sake of symmetry, I usually make an even number of pleats, half
can ignore this section.
facing one way and the other half facing the other way. But again, the
point is to make this bag your own, so pleat however you wish. Note that
if you are going to make the full face slip pocket (next section), you should position your pleats more towards the
centre (i.e., away from the edge) to maximize the size of the pocket opening.
Other than that, the only real requirement in this whole process is that you can fit the #1 PLEATED BAG BODY panel
to a #4 TOP BAND piece. An easy way to check your accuracy without actually having to pin your pleated panel to the
band is to lay the pleated piece on top of a #2 PLAIN BAG BODY piece (as I have done in the picture below)… it
should be the same size, particularly at the top where the pleats are.
If you make four pleats roughly 1/2” (13mm) wide, you should come close to making everything fit properly. As this
is mostly a trial and error process, just keep at it until you get the top of the panel to the right width. If you decide
to go with an even number of pleats, fold the whole thing in half, side to side, to check that the placement is
symmetrical.
When you are satisfied with how you’ve

made your pleats, baste them in place at
the top using a 1/4” (6mm) allowance.
For a different look, sew along the edge of
the pleats to secure them vertically. I did
this for one side of my bag, sewing down
from the top edge for about 2.5” or 6.5cm
on each pleat.
If you have chosen to pleat both sides of your
bag, repeat the above process with your second
#1 piece.
C u s to mi ze I t
There is no requirement for the pleating to be the same on both
sides even if you choose to pleat both sides. I intentionally made
my bag not to have any specific “front” to it so that I can carry it
facing either way. In that same vein, you may want to make a
whole different set of pleats for the other side of your bag. At left
is a panel with a set of six pleats.
F u ll Face Sli p Poc ke t − O pti on al

With just the one main compartment, this front slip pocket is definitely a useful
addition to the MAKE IT YOURS BAG, since it is as big as the bag itself.
To make this pocket, you will attach either a prepared #1 PLEATED BAG BODY
piece or a #2 PLAIN BAG BODY piece to the top of another #2 PLAIN BAG BODY
piece. (The upcoming photos show a pleated panel as the top piece.)
The first step is to fold back and pin in place the two corners of the top piece,
as shown below in front and back views:
Lay the piece on top of the #2 PLAIN BAG BODY piece to check that everything is even on both sides (put aside
the #2 piece after you have done this).
At where you folded the corners under, roll the raw edge of the fabric underneath itself a few times to create a long
narrow enclosed seam. (Do this on both sides.) Repin & press.
Choose which side you want to access the pocket from and sew closed the above seam on that side.
Now lay the piece back on top of the #2 piece (both pieces right side up facing you) and pin along all edges as
shown below. IMPORTANT: Ensure that the opening for the pocket (i.e., where you see the cell phone) is wide
enough for your hand to reach into, once the top and sides are sewn together with a 1/2” (13mm) seam
allowance! (If need be, roll the seam again to make it bigger.)
Baste the two pieces together along the top and then the bottom, using a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance. Run your
stitching off into the seam allowance when you approach both the real pocket opening as well as the faux pocket
opening on the other side.
On the faux pocket opening, sew down the length

of the rolled enclosed seam to secure, using an
approximate 1/8” (3mm) allowance.
You now have a full “bag-sized” slip pocket assembly.
This pocket really is quite handy to have, since it is

generally not obvious to casual observers, thereby
keeping your contents safe. And because it is so deep
and so big, nothing is ever in danger of falling out.
C u s to mi ze I t
LINING > If it bothers you that this pocket isn’t lined,
you can definitely use more fabric and cut another #2
piece (or even just part of one) to create a lining or
partial facing.
SIZE OF OPENING > Depending on how you space your pleats, you can make a more substantial fold at the corners to
expose a greater amount of the contrasting fabric beneath (if you have chosen to use a contrasting fabric under-
neath). This will also allow you to create a bigger opening for the pocket if you want to be able to shove a wallet or
something like that inside.
DOUBLE ENDED POCKET > You can make this pocket accessible from both ends if you want; i.e., instead of sewing
closed the opposite “faux pocket”, you can create a second opening to facilitate easier access.
TWO POCKETS > Finally, you can make this same pocket on both sides of your bag, creating even more storage
possibilities!
Ex terior To p B and
The next step is to attach your #1 and/or #2 BAG BODY panels to the exterior #4 TOP BAND pieces. (These are the
pieces that are “fleeced”.)
Begin by placing one of the #4 pieces face down (i.e., right sides together) on top of one of your body panels, as
shown.
Pin all the way around, easing to fit. IMPORTANT: If you have decided to customize with a flap closure, make it
now and enclose the end of the flap, centered, between the back bag body panel and the top band here.
Sew together using a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance.

Turn over and press the seam upwards. Finish by topstitching close to the seam along the bottom of the band.
Repeat the process with your other body panel and fleeced top band piece.
C u s to mi ze I t
PIPING > Do you “pipe”? Adding contrasting
piping where the top band meets the bag
body would be a nifty touch.
BUTTON TRIM > For a simple touch to make it

uniquely yours, pick out some interesting
buttons (or costume jewels) and sew them
onto the band like I did. (I have a matching
wallet for this bag that closes with the same button.)
Ex terior Zi ppered Poc ke t(s) − Opt ion al

You can add two basic styles of zippered pockets to the outside of your bag: a regular horizontal one that is best
placed on a #2 PLAIN BAG BODY panel, and one or two angled pockets designed for the #1 PLEATED BAG BODY
panel.
Assuming that you have had previous experience in putting in a zippered pocket, I won’t describe the process in
painstaking detail. The following discussion and photos will follow the construction of a set of angled pockets. If you
don’t want to bother with two zippers, you can also make a single large pocket that is accessed by just one zipper.
Lay the #7 DUAL ZIPPERED POCKET LINING piece (right side down) on
top of the pleated #1 PLEATED BAG BODY piece (right side up) to which Leave at least 1.5” (4cm)
you will be adding the pockets. Pin in place. between the top of the pocket
Establish the desired placement for the zipper openings on the #7 DUAL fabric and the top of your line
ZIPPERED POCKET LINING piece by drawing two lines – about 5.25”
(13.5cm) long – to mark the positions. You should be able to find suitable
markings. (That is, leave a bit
locations for your zipper openings between the pleats that you made on the more space than I show in this
#1 panel. Start by drawing one line and then “mirror” it on the opposite side. photo!)
Draw a box* around your lines and add triangles at the top and bottom ends
to finish your zipper
placement markings.
* For regular zippers, a box
width of approximately 1/2”
(13mm) is adequate. If you
use heavier duty zippers,
adjust accordingly (i.e., make
your box wider) to accommo-
date larger zipper teeth or
wider zipper tape.
Ensure that you are satisfied with how the #7 piece is

positioned on top of your pleated panel (i.e., make sure the
proposed zipper openings aren’t sitting crooked). Repin if
necessary.
Sew along the outside lines of the box on both of the zipper
markings. This now secures the pocket lining to the front of
your pleated body panel.
Use a stitch ripper
and scissors to
open up the box.
Cut along the main
centre line and also
along the triangle
markings through all
layers, being careful
not to cut into the
stitching.
S ep a ra te th e Po c kets & I ns t all Zi p pe rs

You may have wondered why I used one big ol’ pocket lining when I was making two pockets. It’s just easier to
achieve symmetrical results doing it this way.
Cut the lining in half to separate the pockets. After you do that, push the fabric pieces through the two zipper
openings to the other side, as shown below.
Give the openings a good press with an iron to facilitate easier zipper installation.
Position and pin your zippers in place on the underside of the openings. (Use 6” zippers if you can get them, but
you can always cut away extra length on longer zippers.)
Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, sew your zippers into place. Cut away any excess when you are
done.
If you haven’t sewn many zippers before, the idea is to sew as close to the zipper teeth as you can while staying
straight. When you get close to the zipper pull and realize that it is in your way, lower your needle into the fabric,
raise the zipper foot and pull the zipper open past where you are sewing. Then lower the zipper foot and continue.
If you’re wondering, the distance between the top of the zipper stitching and the bottom of the band is 1.5” or 4cm.
F inis h Pock ets

Pin and sew…all that remains now is to fold the bottom of the pocket linings up to meet their respective top edges
and sew shut the three open sides. (Just be careful not to catch the body panel of your bag in your stitching.) There
you go, you now have zippered pockets!
Some might point out that you
can arrange the pocket lining so
that the open seam is on the
bottom of the pocket rather than
the top (and maybe easier to sew
together). I get that, but I don’t
like the increased probability over
time that the seam at the bottom
of the pocket – because it carries
the weight of the pocket’s
contents – might come apart.
C u s to mi ze I t
For a change of pace, you can make
these same pockets without zippers.
When you mark the lines, make the
box for the opening less than 1/4"
(6mm) wide. This will result in a a
narrower opening (than for
installing a zipper) after you push
the lining through to the other
side, and will better secure the
contents of your pockets during actual
use. Press, sew around the opening as you would for a zipper and then complete the pocket as usual. Depending on
what fabric you use for your pocket lining, you can end up with an interesting line of contrast at the pocket entry.
O uter Bag As semb ly

You should now have most of the pieces ready to complete the outer shell of your bag. Check to see that you have
attached all of your desired exterior pockets to your front and back panels and that the top band has also been
attached to both panels.
If you are not using the GUSSET

A tt ac h G u s s e t & F i ni s h S i de S e a ms
piece, you can ignore this section.
Now comes the part where a little patience is required: attaching the #3
GUSSET piece. Before you do so, fold it in half (the same way it was originally cut) and mark the midpoint in the seam
allowance on the wrong side of the fabric. (On the opposite edge of this piece, mark the midpoint on the right side of
the fabric; this will be handy for when you attach it to the second panel later.)
Take your completed front or back panel and also fold it in half, marking its midpoint along the bottom seam
allowance, on the right side of the fabric. Position the two pieces right sides together and – matching the
marked midpoint on the wrong side of the #3 GUSSET piece – pin, easing to fit where required.
Sew together with a 1/2” (13mm) seam

allowance. Clip and notch the curves at both
corners of the seam to finish.
Take the other panel and fold and mark its
midpoint also, this time on the wrong side of
the fabric, where it will be easier to see.
With right sides together, match the centre
of the gusset – which is now attached to a
body panel – to the centre of the second panel
and pin, easing to fit.
Pin carefully or you may encounter
problems with puckering when you sew.
When you get to the end point of the
gusset, fold it over as shown at left (the
yellow arrow indicates how you should
later sew the seam).
I recommend that you do not stitch

together just yet, however. To ensure
that the top of your bag will be even
where the top band joins together at the
side seams, you may want to proceed in
two steps: sew down one side to the
midpoint of the bottom and then sew
from the other side down to the midpoint
of the bottom.
When you get to the end point of the gusset, sew over the folded seam as shown in the picture. Continue sewing
the seam down to the middle of the bottom edge.
Sew the other side seam in the same fashion, to join up with your previous sewing at the bottom centre of the
gusset.
Notch and clip corners again.
Turn your bag right side out when you are done.
F i ni s h S i d e S e a ms ( * * * No G u s s et V er s i o n * * * )
If you are making the bag without the #3 GUSSET piece, pin your two front and back panels right sides together and
sew from the top of one side down to the midpoint of the bottom. Then sew from the top of the opposite side down to
meet your stitching at the bottom.
Turn your bag right side out when you are done.
A tt ac h St ra ps
Pin your straps to the top band of the bag’s exterior as shown in the photo, ensuring that they are straight and that
both sides match. Extend the ends of the straps at least a 1/2" (13mm) above the top of the band. I positioned them
2” (5cm) in from the side seams, but that’s totally up to you. Note that if you have added trim, the outside of the
strap (the side that will show when you carry the bag) is face down right here.
Sew in place with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Reinforce by sewing back and forth over each strap several times.
In st al l M agnet ic Sn ap
You can do this part just before you attach the lining
to the exterior of your bag (as I had to do because I
actually forgot about this), but the pieces are easier
to handle if you do it now. Note that you should have
already made placement marks on the wrong side of
the #4 TOP BAND lining pieces (ones without fleece)
when you originally cut and prepared your fabric.
Again, I assume that you have done this at least once

before, so I will just highlight the general process.
Snip a couple of small squares of fusible

interfacing and iron them over your markings on each of the #4 pieces. (You might want to touch up the placement
markings on top of the interfacing pieces afterwards to see them more clearly.)
Take a couple of small squares of scrap fabric and draw the same markings on them.
On the scraps and the #4 pieces, use a stitch ripper to open up the tiny vertical slits for the prongs to go through.
Thread the prongs from one half of the fastener set through the holes (from the right side). Push the scrap fabric
squares down onto the exposed prongs. Finish by placing the washer piece on top.
Put the whole thing on top of a solid surface and use a mallet or hammer to press down the prongs, one on top of
the other towards the middle. (Do not spread the prongs outwards.)
Repeat with the other half of the fastener set. (If you like, fuse a protective layer of interfacing on top of each half of
the fastener after it has been attached.)
C u s to mi ze I t
HOOK & LOOP TAPE > If you don’t have or want to put in a magnetic snap closure, you can also sew on some hook
and loop tape (AKA Velcro).
HIDDEN, WEIGHTED FLAP > Prefer a weighted flap closure? Cut a simple rectangular pattern template 9” long by 3.5”
(23cm x 9cm) wide. Round off the edges at one end (use a juice glass or something similar to trace around). Use the
pattern to cut two fabric pieces; apply interfacing to both. Pin the two pieces right sides together and sew all the way
around with a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance, leaving the straight end open for turning. Trim seams down to 1/4” (6mm)
and turn right side out. Throw in a 2” (5cm) or larger metal washer and topstitch all the way around, closing the
opening at the end of the flap by folding the seam allowance inside.
DECORATIVE WEIGHTED FLAP > Two other ways of adding weight to a flap: 1) cover a 2” (5cm) or larger washer
with bias tape or ribbon and then attach the whole item to the outside of the flap, or 2) hang an embellished weight
“door knocker style” from the end of a (shortened) flap.
As for installing any flap to this bag, the best option is to catch it in the seam between the top band pieces.
RECESSED ZIPPER > Some people like the security of having everything zipped up tight, so another option is to
install a recessed zipper closure. I am not going to provide instructions for this (again, excellent tutorials available
online) but will say that if you go this route, I would suggest reducing the width of the #4 TOP BAND pieces to 3”
(7.5cm).
In teri or T op Band
Take the lining #1 or #2 body panels and pin them to the lining #4 TOP BAND pieces, easing to fit.
Sew as you did for the external body panels.

Finish by pressing the seams upwards and topstitching close to the edge.
C u s to mi ze I t
If you want to add a D ring to attach keys or whatnot, you
might want to do it here before sewing these pieces
together. Make a slightly shorter (and wider) loop similar to
the sunglasses loop, thread a D ring through it and put it
between the top band and the lining panel. (The little ring
shown here is for attaching some bag bling.)
NOTE: If you want to construct a recessed zipper closure for your bag, you will need to attach your zipper casings
here before you sew the body panels to the top bands.
Z ip pered Poc ket − O pti on al

This zippered pocket is a simple, straight-forward version of a zippered pocket found inside most bags. Once again, I
assume you have done this before.
Take your pattern piece #8, one of your lining #2 pieces and with right sides together, follow the same basic process
as described for the exterior zippered pockets from page 17.
The photos on the next page will guide you through the same process of cutting the zipper opening, feeding fabric
through to the opposite side, positioning and sewing the zipper, and then closing up the pocket lining.
Remember to press well after you cut the opening and feed the fabric through to the other side.
C u s to mi ze I t
As previously suggested, you can make the opening
narrower and omit the zipper altogether for a different
look!
The distance between the top of the
zipper stitching and the bottom of
the top band is 1.5” (4cm).
Di vided Sli p/Patch P ocke t − Op ti onal

If you are making this bag for your own use, take the time to size your patch pocket compartments into whatever
dimensions suit you best. My cell phone pocket was sized for my particular phone in both width and depth. For
general purposes, you might want to divide the pocket into two main large compartments with a pen pocket in
between. (As a guideline, use a 1” (2.5cm) width for a pen pocket.)
Of all the pocket types, a patch pocket is arguably the easiest to make. Start by putting your two pieces of #6 fabric
right sides together and pin.
Sew all the way around, leaving a gap of about 3” (7.5cm) along one long edge for turning.
Trim seams to 1/4” (6mm) and clip corners.
Turn and press. Press the seam allowance to the inside where you have left the turning gap.
Run a row or two of topstitching along the top of this pocket assembly,
within 1/4” (6mm) of the top edge. Smartphones are getting
Place the pocket assembly on top of one of your #2 bag body lining outrageously big and are therefore
pieces (both pieces right side up) and pin where desired (I positioned
outgrowing normal sized phone
the top of the pocket 1.25” (3cm) down from the bottom edge of the top
band). Ensure that the partially open side (i.e., where the gap was left
pockets. I don’t know if any studies
for turning) is on the bottom. have been done on whether
Sew all the way around the two sides and the bottom, stitching 1/8” women prefer the larger models,
(3mm) from the edge. You will end up closing up the turning gap when
but a bigger pocket is something
you do this.
to keep in mind if you are making
All that remains is to draw some lines for your pocket division(s). Sew one or
this bag for someone else. Make
two rows of stitching along each line to create individual compartments. If
the compartment of the patch
you need less depth in any of the pocket divisions – as I did for my cell
pocket big enough for a 3”
phone (you should be able to see it in the previous photo) – run a row of
(7.5cm) wide phone.
horizontal stitching across the pocket at the desired depth to make it
shallower.
C u s to mi ze I t
If you want to make a combination slip pocket/card slot assembly like I show in the photo, make the card slot
assembly first (see next section). Then measure its length and cut your fabric for the accompanying slip pockets
according to that measurement. When you put everything together, use the two slip pockets to hide the seams of the
card slot assembly.
An easier alternative – if you have no issues with the amount of fabric that you use – is to attach the card slot
assembly to the top of this patch pocket, and then use bias tape or ribbon to cover the raw edges of the card slots.
Credit Card Sl ot s − Opt ion al

When I first made this bag, I had a couple of leftover pieces of fabric that – when sewed together – was just the right
length for making three card slots. So that’s what I did with it. If I had had enough for four slots or only two, that’s
what I would have made. That is the idea of this project: make do with what you have.
If you search online for tutorials on “how to sew card slots”, you’ll find all kinds of detailed and often confusing
instructions on how to measure fabric for these slots. I do not like to be so structured about the whole thing
(surprise, surprise). My process was to take a strip of
fabric (mine was 3.75” or 9.5cm wide), some old cards,
and then I “folded and arranged” until I got what I
needed.
You can do this folding process with cards stacked

horizontally or vertically. I prefer vertical for the extra
security along the inside of a bag (as opposed to an
enclosed wallet); the contents are a little less likely to slip
out. You can easily also make vertical slots wider to
accommodate other items, such as a pack of gum or
laminated cards that may be slightly larger than standard
issue cards.
Take 1/2” (13mm) of the top edge of your strip of

fabric and fold it underneath to create a “hem”. Lay a
card down on top, approximately 1/4" (6mm) down
from the top folded edge. (Fig. #1)
Bring up the remainder of the fabric strip and fold it
down on top of the card, leaving about 1/2" (13mm) of
the top edge of the card exposed. (Fig. #2)
Put down a second card, approximately 1/4" (6mm)
down from the previous folded edge. Repeat until you
have the required number of slots folded; pinning as
you go. (Fig. #3)
When you are done, fold the bottom underneath to
create another hem.
If you are planning to attach patch pockets on either side of this card slot assembly, measure the entire length of this
piece so that you can determine your fabric requirements. Adjust the top and bottom hems if needed to arrive at an
even measurement. (Mine is 5.25” (13cm) here; I cut pieces that were 6.25” (16cm) long to make the accompanying
pockets).
Remove your cards and carefully press the entire assembly with an
iron. (If your fabric requires interfacing, do so now. Cut the pieces
just big enough to fit into the folds that lie on top of each card.)
Topstitch close to the edge of each folded slot. Do not sew the
“hems” at either end; they will be closed when you attach the
entire piece to your bag’s lining (or to a patch pocket, depending
on how you choose to finish).
Baste along the sides with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
You have at least a couple of finishing options: 1) install patch
pockets on each side, hiding the raw edges of the card slot assembly
when you sew them down, or 2) attach this to the top of a patch
pocket and sew bias tape or ribbon down the side seams to hide
them (then finish and install the patch pocket as desired).
Lining Assembly
Now that everything that you need or want for the inside of your bag has been “attached” to your satisfaction, it’s
time to put together the bag’s lining.
A tt ac h G u s s e t & F i ni s h S i de S e a ms
If you are not using the GUSSET
Follow the same steps to attach the #3 GUSSET lining piece to each of
piece, you can ignore this section.
your two lining panels as you did for the exterior of the bag. Remember to
fold the pieces in half and mark the midpoints to help you get even results.
Pin right sides together and sew the gusset to one body panel lining first.
Next, pin together the remaining body panel lining to the completed gusset with attached body panel (right sides
together again). IMPORTANT: If you are adding loops for your glasses, they need to be positioned within the side
seams at the top band here! (See separate heading for Sunglasses Loops.)
Sew together the side seams of the lining, starting at the top band and ending at the tip of the gusset (where you
should run the stitching off into the seam allowance).
If required, reposition and re-pin the gusset to the bottom of the body panel.
The next instruction would usually tell you to sew along both sides towards the bottom, leaving a 4” (10cm) gap for
turning. If you pin really well (i.e., with no puckering), go ahead and do it like that. Alternatively, you can also use this
technique, in which you sew the entire seam all the way:
Mark the beginning and end of the 4” (10cm) gap for turning.
When you get to one of the above marks, back tack your stitching several times to secure.
Adjust your stitch length to a basting stitch and continue sewing until you get to the second mark.
Adjust your stitch length back to normal and back tack your stitching once again to secure.
Once you finish sewing the entire seam, use a stitch ripper to open up the turning gap. Doing it this way ensures that
when you close up the gap, it will not pucker.
Keep your lining wrong side out for final bag assembly.
F i ni s h S i d e S e a ms ( * * * No G u s s et V er s i o n * * * )
With right sides together, pin your completed front and back lining panels together. Mark a 4” (10cm) turning gap
along the bottom. IMPORTANT: If you are adding loops for your glasses, they need to be positioned within the side
seams at the top band here! (See separate heading for Sunglasses Loops.)
Sew from the top of one side down to the turning gap mark at the bottom. Repeat on the other side to finish at the
other turning gap mark.
Keep your lining wrong side out for final bag assembly.
Su ngl as s es L o o ps − O p tio n al
These are merely tiny little “no turn” straps. (Fold in
half lengthwise, press, open up, fold sides inwards to
almost meet in the centre, press, fold in half again and
press. Stitch closed; add topstitching on opposite side.)
They go in when you finish the side seams of the lining.

Pin or clip them between your side seams as shown until
you are ready to sew the seams.
On this bag, I positioned the loops at the bottom edge of the top band, but I moved them up to the middle of the
band on a subsequent version. (Easier to access the glasses this way.)
B ag Assemb ly
We’ve come to that exciting “almost done” stage of the bag making process. Ensure that the lining is wrong side out
and the exterior of the bag is right side out. (And one last chance – it you want to add any embellishments to the
band, do so now!)
Drop the exterior of the bag into the lining. Ensure that the ends of the straps are pointing upwards as shown
below.
Pin in place all the way around the

top, matching the side seams. My top band pieces were all cut from the same fabric and were not
Sew together using the usual 1/2" interfaced at the seam allowance, so it did not matter from what side I
(13mm) seam allowance. sewed. If you have one side where the fabric is thinner and/or is not
You’re now ready to flip your bag right
interfaced, keep that side underneath – i.e., against the feed dogs –
side out! Carefully pull the bag’s exterior
when you sew. (It’s a trick I learned early on that undoubtedly saved
through the turning gap in the lining.
me from several hair-pulling experiences.)
Once you’ve done that, close the opening at the bottom of the lining before you push it down into the bag.
Give the top band area a good press.
Pin or clip the top seam together to keep it

straight and then run a row of topstitching all
the way around the top, about 1/4" (6mm)
from the edge.
Great, you’re finished!
DID YOU HAVE FUN?

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR CREATIONS… SEND
ME PICS OR POST THEM TO YOUR CRAFTSY
ACCOUNT!
Finished Project Photos
MAKE IT YOURS BAG Pattern Piece #1A
this piece is approximately 7” x 9 3/4” (at longest point)
© 2013-16 by eSheep Designs
this piece is approximately 8” x 7” (at widest point)
MAKE IT YOURS BAG Pattern Piece #1B
this piece is approximately 8 5/8” x 3 1/4”
(at widest point)
MAKE IT YOURS BAG
Pattern Piece #2B
this piece is approximately 8”
x 4” (at widest point)
© 2013-16
by eSheep Designs
MAKE IT YOURS
BAG Pattern
Piece #3B
this piece is
approximately
2 1/8” x 4 3/4”
© 2013-16 by
eSheep Designs

this piece is approximately 8 1/4” x 4 3/4”
(at longest point)
TERMS OF USE
Happy sewing! Feel free to make and sell as many
MAKE IT YOURS BAGs
as you care to…
I only ask that you credit eSheep Designs
and reference my blog at
eSheepDesigns.blogspot.com
by attaching the following tag to all items.
If you have any questions or feedback about this pattern, or just want to show me what you’ve made with it,
email me at info@eSheepEnterprises.com (don’t post questions to Craftsy if you want a response quickly).
Thanks for supporting my “designer” dream!
— Rochelle
Check out my other patterns here… https://www.craftsy.com/profile/esheep-designs

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© 2013-16 by eSheep Designs | reproduction in whole or in part without expressed written consent is prohibited

Introducing the MAKE IT YOURS BAG

The inside of this bag has two pen pockets, a cell

The bag’s exterior sports two zippered pockets

Who is This Pr ojec t For?

Pattern Pieces Required

P at tern In str ucti ons

For interfacing, you may want to

P a tte r n Pi ec es Wi tho u t Cut ti n g T em pl at es

#4 – TOP BAND * #5 – STRAPS

14.5” x 3.75” (37cm x 9.5cm) 25” x 5.5” (63.5cm x 14cm)

Cut 4 Contrasting Fabric Cut 2 Main Fabric

#6 – INTERIOR PATCH POCKET #7 – DUAL ZIPPERED POCKET LINING

9”w x 6”l (23cm x 15cm) 12”w x 14”l (30.5 x 35.5cm)

#8 – SINGLE ZIPPERED POCKET LINING #9 – SET OF 3 CARD SLOTS

8.5”w x 12”l (21.5cm x 30.5cm) 3.5”w x 25”l (9cm x 63.5cm)

#10 – SUNGLASSES LOOP * Because the top of this bag is so open,

1.5” x 5.5” (4cm x 14cm)

Finished bag size (gusseted version) is approximately 14” x 11.5” (tall) x 4”

Design Your Bag

Ste p 1: Re ad E ver ythi ng!

Ste p 2: Ple ated or No t?

Ste p 3: Gusse t or No Gusse t?

Ste p 5: Gather Fabric & No tion s

Main fabric* (body panels, straps, gusset)

Cut Fabric & Attach Interfacing

In terf aci ng & Prep ping

PIECE INTERFACING FLEECE

M ar k M a gn etic S nap Pl ac e m ent

When you are satisfied with how you’ve

F u ll Face Sli p Poc ke t − O pti on al

On the faux pocket opening, sew down the length

This pocket really is quite handy to have, since it is

Sew together using a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance.

BUTTON TRIM > For a simple touch to make it

Ex terior Zi ppered Poc ke t(s) − Opt ion al

Ensure that you are satisfied with how the #7 piece is

S ep a ra te th e Po c kets & I ns t all Zi p pe rs

F inis h Pock ets

O uter Bag As semb ly

If you are not using the GUSSET

Sew together with a 1/2” (13mm) seam

I recommend that you do not stitch

Again, I assume that you have done this at least once

Snip a couple of small squares of fusible

Sew as you did for the external body panels.

Z ip pered Poc ket − O pti on al

Di vided Sli p/Patch P ocke t − Op ti onal

Credit Card Sl ot s − Opt ion al

You can do this folding process with cards stacked

Take 1/2” (13mm) of the top edge of your strip of

They go in when you finish the side seams of the lining.

Pin in place all the way around the

Give the top band area a good press.

Pin or clip the top seam together to keep it

Great, you’re finished!

DID YOU HAVE FUN?

Finished Project Photos

MAKE IT YOURS BAG Pattern Piece #3A

Check out my other patterns here… https://www.craftsy.com/profile/esheep-designs

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