Professional Documents
Culture Documents
BBCCountryfile July2018
BBCCountryfile July2018
BBCCountryfile July2018
COUNTRY
Britain’s most
PPA CONSUMER MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR
RISE
OF THE
beautiful rivers BEAVER
Your first look at
the UK’s newest
wild colony
Refreshing waterside walks in Yorkshire, Dorset,
Snowdonia, Hampshire, Highlands and more
Kathie’s team in Japan Polly from Brazil Nick’s team in South Africa
www.travellocal.co.uk
+44 (0) 117 325 7898
team@travellocal.com
EDITOR’S LETTER
the Thames – congestion here is something we take for granted today. “Researchers concluded that
translates as a view with more But not that long ago, things were very experiencing the beauty of nature
than one cow in it,” says Ben. different,”
ff reveals Jenny. increases positive emotion.”
www.countryfile.com 03
Contents
12
Spot dragonflies and damselflies
18
Roam the Thames from its source
32
Exclusive access to the latest wild colony of beavers
54
Explore the Dove as it returns to nature
MONTH IN
THE COUNTRY FEATURES
6-13 JULY IN THE COUNTRY 18 DISCOVER THE THAMES: On the 54 WHEN THE DOVE CRIES On the
cover
Cover: Alamy, Corné Van Oosterhout/www.kingfisher.photography Photos: Getty, Alamy, Martin Pope, Oliver Edwards, Naturepl.com
› Identify dragonflies and damselflies. FROM SOURCE TO SPIRE Over an 11km stretch, the beautiful cover
› Dry and display your garden herbs. Starting as a shallow stream, the river Dove is interrupted by no fewer than
› Summer’s wacky racers. widens into a giant that runs through 177 weirs that slow the water. Stroll
British history. Ben Lerwill walks from its its banks while finding out how a
11 A-Z
- OF MINDFULNESS rural beginnings to beautiful Oxford. restoration project is reviving the river.
G – the gardening and growing good life.
32 BEAVER REVOLUTION On the 62 SUFFRAGETTE SWIMMERS On the
14 ADAM’S ANIMALS A new wild colony of these
cover Just a century ago, a wave of bold cover
Half Gloucester Old Spots, half Hamrock, amazing aquatic engineers has appeared female swimmers caused a splash by
the Glamrock pig is a rebel rebel. in Devon – and transformed the joining men in Britain’s waters. Plus
landscape. Fergus Collins investigates. seven top wild swimming spots today.
04 www.countryfile.com
subscribe
today
for unbeatable
money-saving
offers, page 30
42
Canoe Britain’s waterways
68
Paul and Bob go fishing
77
Britain’s most beautiful rivers
On the
cover
www.countryfile.com 05
JULY
IN THE COUNTRY
PICTURES › WILDLIFE › PEOPLE & PLACES › COUNTRY KNOW-HOW › FOOD
must see
A DAMSEL’S GAZE
It would be interesting to understand what an azure damselfly’s
compound eyes actually take in of our world. Clearly it has excellent
sight as it catches small insects in mid-air – clutching them in its feet
– before taking its prey to a perch to devour. It spends much of its
one year of life underwater as a larva, ambushing small creatures.
When ready, it crawls from the pond or river and sheds its outer skin
to reveal the adult insect. After its wings have dried and hardened,
the damselfly takes to the air in search of food and a mate.
8
RAINFOREST FALLS
The Afon Gamlan thunders through a narrow
wooded gorge and over Rhaeadr Ddu (Black
Falls) in Coed Ganllwyd National Nature
Photos: Mike Alexander, Alamy, Naturepl.com
WACKY
RACERS
This summer, competitors vie for the top spot in
some of England’s most unusual rural races
Riverside pubs, quiet cafés and gentle
rambles through open pasture and over
wooded hills – rural England conjures
an image of peace. Yet throughout
the countryside in summer, these sleepy
corners of the country erupt with quirky 1
competitions of unimaginable rules and
splendid colour. Head to Braughing in the
midst of England and heave a wheelbarrow
through the Hertfordshire village on a
400m course, or take on the Oxenhope
Straw Race in Yorkshire, making your way
from pub to pub with, you guessed it, a bale
of straw in tow. In Kent, watch customised
wheelie bins bomb through the streets
of Hernhill, while the Norfolk village of 2
Congham hosts its annual snail race.
don’t Summer
miss “
afternoon – summer
afternoon; to me
those have always
been the two most
beautiful words
Timber Forest Festival in the English
language.
”
In its first year, Timber will be exploring the impact of
forests on people and place. Camp out beneath the
trees and discover Robert Macfarlane’s Wilderness Henry James, author
Tracks, and marvel at Museum of the Moon. 6-8 July.
10 www.countryfile.com
MONTH IN THE COUNTRY
How to...
and Growing
Tips for how to be mindful in nature,
in turn improving physical and
mental wellbeing
The simple process of tilling soil,
creating fertile beds for flowers
and vegetables, is deeply
satisfying. The repetitive manual
labour keeps the mind focused on
the present – and also frees it to
be creative or to work out
problems against a backdrop of
rhythmic weeding and digging.
The magic of planting seeds and
nurturing them as they sprout and
1 Choose the herbs you would like to
harvest – oregano, mint, lavender,
thyme and rosemary work especially
2 Bring your gathered plants
indoors and, using twine/raffia,
tie each herb species into a bunch at
grow can result in a huge sense of well. Cut and gather some of the stems the base of the stems. Use 4-7 sprigs
achievement, even if some are lost with the most luxuriant growth from in each bunch, keeping back 2 or 3
to pests or drought. Few things each of your selected plants. stems from each herb for the posy.
generate a greater sense of
wellbeing than sitting beside your
own productive veg patch or
cottage garden in high summer.
Slow worms
Illustration: Lynn Hatzius. Photos: Getty, Teneight, Emma Mitchell
11
ID guide
12 www.countryfile.com
MONTH IN THE COUNTRY
TEMPTING
TOMATOES
Ruby-coloured, sweet and highly versatile, the
tomato is one of our most popular ingredients.
Make this delicious fruit the star of the table with
a recipe from The Tomato Stall, which grows
tomatoes in Arreton Valley on the Isle of Wight
Method
Preheat the oven to 190°C. Unroll the puff pastry and
1 cut into four equal rectangles. Score a 1cm border
around the edge. Prick the centre of the pastry all over
with a fork, place on a baking sheet and bake in the
oven for 10 minutes.
Spread the pesto over the centre of the pastry, top
2 with the chopped slow roasted tomatoes and then
the halved tomatoes and finally the mozzarella. Countryfile on TV
Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive
3 oil. Return to the oven for 10 minutes. Serve with a
few fresh basil leaves on top.
BBC ONE, SUNDAY EVENINGS
80 years since...
The Mallard speed record 17 June
On 3 July 1938, 4468 Mallard broke the Countryfile will be in Northern
Photos: www.thetomatostall.co.uk, PA, Getty, Alamy, Naturepl.com
world speed record for steam locomotives, Ireland, looking at traditional Lough
reaching 126 mph (203 km/h) at milepost Erne boat building, pine martens
90¼ between Little Bytham and and the life of hymnodist and poet
Essendine in Lincolnshire to overtake Cecil Frances Alexander, 200 years
the previous record (124.5mph), set in after her birth.
1936. During its 25 years of service, the 24 June
165-tonne locomotive covered almost Matt Baker will be in West Sussex,
1.5 million miles before retiring in 1963. ‘gleaning’ fields for food charities,
Mallard can now be found in the National and Steve Brown explores
Railway Museum in York as part of the ‘champing’ – camping in churches.
UK’s National Collection.
www.countryfile.com 13
Adam’s animals
What are Glamrock pigs? Farmer and Countryfilee presenter
Adam Henson heads to a family farm in the Cotswolds and
discovers that this new breed tastes as rocking as it sounds
f you were a music-mad teenager in the 1970s, glam established themselves as enterprising professionals
Glamrock piglets Ask Adam: What topic would you like to know more
about? Email your suggestions to editor@countryfile.com
14 www.countryfile.com
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Root for
TREES
The UK has a rich natural heritage
and its trees play a key role. Here’s
how you can ensure their future
W
hen it comes to conservation, ensuring
the future of the UK’s woodlands is more
important than ever. The Woodland Trust is
working to make sure the nation’s natural
heritage is handed over to the next generation, including
the 1,000 plus woods that it owns and cares for. Our
children and grandchildren deserve to learn about
and connect with nature in just the same way as those
who came before them. That means protecting woods
under threat, restoring damaged woodland and planting
millions of new native trees every year.
Trees not only give you clean air and oxygen to
breathe; they also fill the land with life, colour and
beauty. They help improve your physical and mental
wellbeing by ofering spaces to walk, relax and escape.
But it’s not just what woodlands do for people; they
also support thousands of species of wildlife. Think of
how vital they are in preserving ecological balance,
and maintaining the UK’s diverse native species.
Just one tree in your local park can give thousands
of birds, insects and mammals food and shelter in
its lifetime. Out in the ancient woodlands, mosses,
lichens and fungi cling to the bark of trees, carpets
of bluebells flourish every spring and butterflies
flutter through leaves.
Sara Maitland
Why does water – even the mere sight of it – soothe our tempers and delight our hearts?
Illustration: Lynn Hatzius
www.countryfile.com 17
DISCOVER
SWEET
THAMES,
RUN SOFTLY
Ben Lerwill spends four blissful days
walking the banks of England’s great river,
from source to the city of dreaming spires
DISCOVER
THE SOURCE OF THE MAGIC miles would make it the longest river in the
But back, for now, to that Gloucestershire UK, an honour currently held by the Severn.
field, home to the river’s source and the I don’t suppose Old Father Thames, whose
official start of my walk. This is Trewsbury statue I find reclining at St John’s Lock
Mead, otherwise known as Thames Head, midway along my walk, would concern
www.countryfile.com 21
himself with such trivialities. What’s beyond
any doubt is that the Thames Path itself
begins at Thames Head. It’s a bright
August day and 55 miles stretch ahead of
me. I have a river to follow.
BEAUTIFUL PATH
There are few things more pleasant, in my
experience, than walking a national trail.
They tend to be reassuringly well signed (how
many thousand acorn-adorned fingerposts
must dot the British landscape?) and carry
too a kind of tacit guarantee of quality. As
a walker, you know to expect good things.
I’ve completed two in the past hiking solo,
and although I’m not, on this occasion,
covering the trail’s full length, I still feel I’m
being ushered into familiar arms.
By its nature, the Thames Path is an
TOP The river springs to life in
almost consistently flat walk. The drop in summer, blooming with thick blue blaze of a kingfisher. By my fourth, I’m
altitude between the source stone and vegetation and banks of flowers watching fairground-lettered narrowboats
Oxford is just 40 metres or so. The views ABOVE The trail runs parallel to the ease past 40-strong flocks of greylag geese.
throughout are deep, rural and largely river for the majority of the walk The route is a sedative one, a world of
untroubled by hills. But forget notions of wheat fields, willows and church spires.
monotony. In its evolution from soggy ditch On the second half of my walk in particular,
to handsome river, the Thames reveals once the river is broad enough to welcome
radically different sides to its character. boats and has a defined towpath, there’s
On my first afternoon I’m walking next to hour after hour of gentle meandering
a shady, overgrown watercourse, its slim through open water meadows. The banks
channel twice lit up – thrillingly – by the are often heavy with sloe-covered
22 www.countryfile.com
DISCOVER
blackthorns and pink, sharp-scented riverside. On each occasion they flap silently, ABOVE LEFT An azure damselfly
profusions of Himalayan balsam. For almost regally, away from the water and back out clings to a head of grass
a full day, I pass only bankside fishermen. across the land, their great grey wings TOP RIGHT With a wingspan of
“Perch – loads of them,” one of them smiles, beating in slow time. about six feet, a grey heron taking
when I ask what he’s catching. “I’m staying a My journey even takes in two different off is a dramatic sight
ABOVE RIGHT A small tortoiseshell
while,” he adds, readjusting his chair. national natural reserves, namely Cricklade
butterfly feeds from Himalayan
There are times when the intrusions of North Meadow, one of Europe’s finest balsam blooms
modern life are inevitable – electricity remaining ancient lowland hay meadows BELOW Colourful kingfishers
pylons, or the high-pitched rumble of (and excellent for snake’s head fritillaries dwell alon g
bypass traffic – but the joy of a walk like this in the spring), and Chimney Meadows,
M walkers in bursts of blue
is that it transports you from the digital age. which I find peppered with bu utterflies: red
The trail leads me past the mouths of admirals, brimstones and com mmon blues.
tributaries with deep-rooted names –
Windrush, Leach, Evenlode – where A TRAIL OF TWO HALVESS
vivid-blue damselflies busy the reeds and The walk to Oxford falls broaddly into two
thistledown plays on the wind. On the halves. Before Lechlade, the Thames
T is
Photos: Oliver Edwards, Getty, Corné van Oosterhout / www.kingfisher.photography
Thames Path, wildflowers trump Wi-Fi. wild, narrow and quiet, a squiggling detail
I pass through little villages such as on the map. From Lechlade it becomes
Ashton Keynes and Castle Eaton, navigable, which means lockss, weirs
snapshots of stone cottages and hand-made and gaily coloured pleasure-ccraft. It
‘hedgehog crossing’ signs, and spend hours now has presence, breadth an nd authority
following the route as it wends among the – it defines the landscape.
ivy-wrapped trunks and reclaimed gravel The locks themselves are unnfailingly
pits of the Cotswold Water Park, its large charming (typical scene: neattly painted
lakes alive with mallards and grebes. steps, lock-keeper tending to camellias,
The birdlife is prolific across all four days. Radio 2 burbling from the lock-side hut) and
There are swallows and house martins, have had eventful pasts. Hugee quantities of
wrens and sedge warblers, kestrels and salt, cheese, wool and Tayntonn stone – a
buzzards. I lose count of the number of high-quality Cotswold limesto one – would all
herons that I inadvertently startle from the have been transported along this stretch
www.countryfile.com 23
Places of historical interest stud the route.
Catherine of Aragon once held the manor
of Lechlade, and renamed its fine church
St Lawrence after a Spanish saint. The site
also inspired Percy Bysshe Shelley’s 1815
poem A Summer Evening Churchyard.
Elsewhere, William Morris’ serene
Kelmscott Manor sits just off the path.
Further downstream I pass what are
reputedly the two oldest Thames bridges
of all. Radcot Bridge is a three-arched span
of Taynton stone dating back to the 1200s,
and the similarly attractive New Bridge is
only a few decades older. Both have been the
site of conflict, during the Wars of the Roses
and the English Civil War respectively.
At times, landowners’ rights mean the
path steers away from the river itself,
sometimes for hours at a stretch, but these
sections are generally pleasant in their own
right. Thankfully, a previously unpleasant
mile-long slog along the A361 just before
Lechlade has now been altered to create an
attractive off-road route following the river.
All told, it is a soul-lifting walk. In a lonely,
golden meadow not far from Newbridge,
I meet a 50-something walker heading the
other way. We stop and talk, watching the
river slide by. “I’ve come from London,” she
says, beaming. “Twelve days so far.” We
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The of the Thames on heavily laden barges, spend a few minutes sharing stories on
tranquil Thames near Castle Eaton, destined for sale in Oxford or London. wildlife and pubs, then continue on our way;
Wiltshire; St Lawrence Church, Aside from the aforementioned villages, she towards the source, I downstream
Lechlade; the 13th-century New the route passes through only a handful among the rushes, stepping minute by
Bridge, one of the two oldest
of other settlements. I split the walk with minute closer to the spires of Oxford. CF
surviving bridges on the Thames
OPPOSITE St John’s Lock, near overnight stops in the towns of Cricklade
Lechlade, Gloucestershire and Lechlade, as well as tiny Newbridge, Ben Lerwill is a freelance writer specialising
covering between 11 and 17 miles a day. in the outdoors. He has spent years living
It becomes a deeply agreeable, unhurried near the Thames, both in London and
routine: long days on the trail, then evenings Oxfordshire, and has travelled the towpath in
to mull them over in the pub. running shoes, hiking boots and cycling kit.
Queen of Scots met her end. Dove and taking in Dovedale Gorge An epic 136-mile journey through Once a disused railway line between
and its stepping stones (see page the English/Welsh borders along the Lincoln and Boston, this 33-mile
Speyside Way 50). Other highlights include the River Wye. Admire broadleaved trail for walkers and cyclists follows
A 65-mile walk between the edge hamlet of Milldale. Finish with woodland, deep gorges and the River Witham. You’ll be treated
of the Grampians and the Moray a cuppa at Beresford Tea Rooms. must-sees such as Tintern Abbey. to plenty of open fenland views.
24 www.countryfile.com
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DISCOVER
NOW GO THERE ›
Where to stop and soak up the surrounds on a tour of the Thames, by Ben Lerwill
2
8
3
Oxford
11
10 6
5 Newbridge
Lechlade-on-Thames 1
7 Radcot
Ashton
Keynes 4
9
Cricklade
LUNCH
Over the walk, places to buy snacks and lunch
provisions are limited, so carry what you need
for the first day, then stock up in Cricklade and
Lechlade. The second half of the walk holds
some excellent pubs for daytime pit-stops:
1 Ye Olde Swan at Radcot.
yeoldeswan.co.uk
2 The Trout Inn at Wolvercote.
thetroutoxford.co.uk
3 The Perch at Binsey. the-perch.co.uk
PLACES TO STAY
4 The White Hart Cricklade large waterside terrace. Rooms are adequate.
A traditional inn with bright hanging baskets in a riverside-lechlade.com
great location on Cricklade’s High Street, where it
has stood since the 17th century. It’s accustomed 6 The Rose Revived Newbridge
to hosting walkers. thewhitehartcricklade.co.uk Upscale accommodation on the river at
Photos Oliver Edwards
www.countryfile.com 27
DISCOVER
UNMISSABLE
7 Church of St John the Baptist,
Inglesham
A remarkable treasure filled with age-old pews,
faded wall paintings and uneven floor slabs.
The church dates to the 1200s and was saved
PILLBOX SPOTTING from ruin by the support of William Morris in
the 1880s.
From Lechlade onwards, you’ll notice squat concrete pillboxes at semi-regular intervals along the
riverside. These defences date to WWII, but thankfully never needed to be used.
ESSENTIAL READING
The Official National Trail Guide, Thames Path in the
Countryy (Aurum Press, 2016) by David Sharp and Tony
Gowers is enlightening, reliable and highly recommended.
9 Cricklade to Castle Eaton 4 miles 10 Lechlade to Radcot Bridge 6.5 miles 11 Oxford to The Trout Inn at
This short walk follows a stretch of the early Experience the rural Thames in full flow, passing Wolvercote and back 6 miles
Photos Alamy, Oliver Edwards
Thames from historical Cricklade through peaceful locks and Kelmscott Manor before reaching A popular there-and-back walk from the city, leading
meadows to the pretty village of Castle Eaton. Radcot, site of the oldest existing bridge over past the ancient expanse of Port Meadow to reach
Either retrace your steps or take a taxi back. the Thames and Ye Olde Swan pub. Return to The Trout Inn, a pub immortalised in Colin Dexter’s
M4 Swindon Taxis quote a price of £20-£23 Lechlade via taxi. CT’s Taxis quote a price of £12-£15 Inspector Morse novels, Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead
(01793 205 800, m4swindontaxis.co.uk). (01367 252575). Revisitedd and Philip Pullman’s La Belle Sauvage.
28 www.countryfile.com
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DISCOVER
DISCOVER
SWEET
THAMES,
RUN SOFTLY spends four blissful days
walking the banks of England’s great river,
from source to the city of dreaming spires
create large, deep pools and canals that the varying in width and depth as the beavers TOP LEFT A partially
beavers use to get around, safe from predators. surmount the challenges of the valley. One dam gnawed tree. Beavers’
They dig their lodges into the pond banks, with section is at least 3m high, another 15m wide. incisors cut impressive
the entrances underwater for added safety. The result is a chaotic series of pools, canals strips of wood with each
Not that they have predators in modern Britain. and boggy areas. Through their logging, the bite and can fell a tree
like this in 30 minutes
My previous experience with beavers was on beavers have opened up areas, allowing light
ABOVE LEFT The animals
the River Otter in east Devon. Here a and life in, and shoots are emerging from each
eat bark, gnawing it
population of unknown origin had made press stump – a natural coppicing process. delicately and leaving
headlines while Natural England and Devon distinctive tooth marks
Wildlife Trust debated what to do with them WHAT OF THE AUTHORITIES? ABOVE Fergus stands
(they are staying but closely monitored). Tony and Tina led me around the valley for with Tina and Tony
The Otter is a large river with enough water three muddy hours. Signs of the animals were Bricknell-Webb on a
for the beavers not to need dams, so on my visit everywhere, from webbed footprints to worn mature beaver dam.
I saw a few gnawed trees but no engineering. paths between the pools. But despite staying Here many plants have
What I saw in west Devon was different:
ff up late and then a dawn start, I didn’t see the established themselves,
possibly the most astonishing wildlife animals – defeated by the unseasonal wind binding the structure
further with their roots
spectacle I have ever witnessed in Britain. and rain that kept the beavers in their lodges.
In five years, the beavers have been busy. I was full of questions – how many beavers
Working at night, they have cut down dozens are working here and how on earth has this
of small to medium ash and alder trees along
the stream, eating the uppermost shoots and
twigs and using larger branches as the bases IMPACT OF BEAVERS ON WATER
for their dams. The wood isn’t laid willy-nilly. From studies by Exeter University at a controlled site on the River Tamar:
The beavers place larger pieces as struts • During storms, peak flows of water are 30% lower leaving the site than
against the flow of the water, then weave entering. There is a constant flow even during drought ht.
smaller lateral branches to create a mesh. Mud • Beaver dams and ponds filter the water. Every litre enntering the site
is balled and wedged into the gaps, creating a contains an average of 112mg of silt, 3.35mg nitrogen
Photos: Justin Foulkes, Getty
solid bank. They keep raising the dam until the (fertiliser) and 0.1mg phosphate (fertiliser) but only 40
water reaches a depth they like. Water can still mg, 2.19mg and 0.02mg respectively leave site per litree.
leak through the dam and seems to emerge as • Of organic carbon, 5.11mg enters, while 11.87mg
a sheet, rather than a narrow channel. leaves, as beavers add organic carbon to water.
But there is not just one dam, but at least 15,
www.countryfile.com 35
It’s in your
HANDS
Bread is surprisingly bad for waterfowl like ducks and
swans, but luckily there’s a food alternative that’s
good for both animals and the environment
F
eeding bread to the ducks is a due to the high starch content of white
fond pastime for many of us, bread, and sandwiches cause even more
reminiscent of happy childhood problems. “Swans are vegetarian, so meat
trips to the local park. But did you in sandwiches – like ham, for example –
know that bread actually poses a danger can lead to botulism poisoning, which has
to birds, as well as the environment? the potential to be fatal,” explains Caroline.
Sadly, eating it can cause our feathered As for the environment, rotting bread
friends to develop a condition called Angel at the bottom of ponds, rivers and lakes
Wing, which is when high amounts of causes harmful changes to the natural
starch found in bread makes their muscles ecosystem, such as algae growth, and can
grow too quickly. As a result, their wings breed a mould called aspergillus, which
drop open and they lose the ability to fly. has the potential to kill ducks if it gets
“Angel Wing can be remedied if we into their lungs. It also spreads disease
reach birds before it has developed too and attracts pests like rats, whose
severely,” says Caroline Simpson, a trustee droppings reduce the water quality.
of UK charity Swan Lifeline, which has It’s not all doom and gloom, however.
rescued and treated more than 30,000 According to Swan Lifeline, 2018 has
birds over the last 20 years. “Otherwise so far seen a reduction in birds dying
the repercussions can be dire – such as from bread-related illnesses –
amputation of the wing.” Adult swans and you have the power
can also develop gut and heart disease to continue this.
escaped the attention of the authorities that has visited but, as the escape is confined to
licence reintroductions, in this case Natural the Bricknell-Webbs’, nothing has been done.
England? What effect are all these dams As the hotel is gaining a name as somewhere
having on fish and other wildlife? And how do to see unusual wildlife, the Bricknell-Webbs
farmers feel about the beavers in their valley? have welcomed their new tenants. Natural
Fortunately, after the unsuccessful dawn England told me it is: “working with the
attempt at seeing the animals, we were joined landowner to contain the beavers at
by Derek Gow himself. He admitted that Coombeshead and reduce the risk of
badgers had dug into his beavers pens, environmental impacts caused by the
allowing a small number to break out, but he animals, such as tree damage.”
had no idea how many
are at large now. WILDLIFE
Some farmers have “The open pools and EXPLOSION ABOVE A froglet. On a
expressed disquiet And what about the
about losing land on marshes were great landscape,
fenced beaver project on
the River Tamar, clumps
the edge of the stream environment and
as the rising water for invertebrates wildlife? Derek
of frogspawn have risen
from 10 to 580 following
levels in the pools explained that the the introduction of the
created marshy and birds” open series of lightly beavers, leading to an
fringes. But most wooded pools and increase in grass snakes
people in the immediate vicinity like to see marshes are great for birds and invertebrates and herons
these extraordinary animals in the wild. Derek – certainly more welcoming than the dark, TOP, CLOCKWISE FROM
admitted that if the beavers were to spread, narrow drainage ditch that had been there. MAIN Tony and Tina
there are likely to be landowners downstream Tony has noticed a massive increase in clumps Bricknell-Webb, editor
Fergus and beaver
who would not want beavers on their land. On of frogspawn.
expert Derek Gow stand
the River Tay in Scotland, where there are And what about fish? Some angling groups, in the water below a new
some 400 wild beavers, many landowners are led by the Angling Trust, oppose beaver beaver dam; new shoots
angry about how the animals have punched reintroductions, arguing that their dams spring from a beaver-
holes in flood protections and productive land impede fish movement. “Nearly all fish gnawed tree stump; a
has been lost. Some animals have been shot. species, not just trout and salmon, need to Coombeshead beaver
But what about the authorities? Natural migrate up and down rivers in order to
England, which licenses all reintroductions, complete their life cycle and the addition of
www.countryfile.com 37
beaver dams would only increase the number
of obstacles that fish have to overcome,” said
Mark Lloyd of the Trust.
Derek Gow disagrees: when the stream was
in spate, enough water poured over the tops
and sides to allow trout to move between the
pools. “That there are any fish this high up the
stream is entirely due to the beavers. Fish
primarily need water and beavers provide it.”
He and Tony offered
ff anecdotal evidence that
the trout are more numerous and larger than
before due to increased food and security
provided by “underwater complexity” created
by the beaver. This is backed by preliminary A beaver explores a lily
results from studies on the River Tay by the pond in Knapdale, Argyll
University of Southampton, suggesting that
trout are larger and more abundant in beaver-
modified habitats compared to very similar
river habitats with no beavers.
BRITAIN’S
“WE SHOULD WELCOME BEAVERS” BEAVER
But that’s not the end of the story. I spoke to
Alan Puttock of Exeter University, who has POPULATIONSS 2
been studying the impacts of the beavers’ 1
There are wild populations
activities on water flow and quality. The small
of beavers in five known
streams in this area carry a huge load of water
locations and several
after heavy rain, which often contains silt and
enclosed beaver projects.
agricultural run-off ff and results in flooding
further down. He has found that, compared to
similar sized streams, this tributary had a far 1 KNAPDALE, ARGYLL
steadier year-round flow, delaying the impact of Beavers reintroduced in
heavy rain on the stream and keeping water 2009 and now permitted
9 3
flowing upstream in summer. In the closely to stay in the wild.
8
monitored Tamar project, hard evidence shows
that the dams allow silt to settle, and act as 2 TAY CATCHMENT, FIFE At least 57 6
4
partial filters for fertilisers and other chemicals 400 wild beavers of unknownn origin.
(see box, page 35).
Derek Gow is strident, even angry, in his 3 COTSWOLD WATER PARK, 7 COOMBESHEAD, DEVON
support for the beavers. “Much of this landscape WILTSHIRE Captive beaver project. Small wild population.
is ecologically dead. We have spent decades,
and billions, promoting the destruction of our 4 CORNWALL BEAVER PROJECT, 8 RIVER STOUR, KENT Small wild
biodiversity through CAP payments to farmers. LADOCK A captive beaver project led beaver population of unknown origin.
The beavers bring life back into our countryside by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust.
and we should welcome them.” 9 LYDBROOK, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
I was disappointed not to see the animals and 5 RIVER TAMAR, DEVON Captive A Forestry Commission plan has
made immediate plans to return. But in many beaver project with Devon Wildlife Trust. been approved to release beavers into
ways, the impact of the beavers is more an enclosure.
important. They have utterly changed a 6 RIVER OTTER, DEVON A small
landscape, blending land and water to create a wild population of unknown origin.
haven bursting with life. Arguments will rage
about the positive and negative impacts of
beavers for years to come but, for me, this felt VISIT PERCY’S COUNTRY HOTEL :
like the beginning of a wildlife revolution. CF Access to the Coombeshead beavers is
restricted but if you stay as a guest of Tina and
Photos: Justin Foulkes, Alamy
38 www.countryfile.com
WILD PEOPLE: JEROME K JEROME
idden in the folds of humorous travelogue Three Men in a The genius of Three Men in a Boat is
40 www.countryfile.com
WILD PEOPLE
www.countryfile.com 41
Seeking the
soul
of the river
Nature writer Matt Gaw
thought he knew rivers, until
he paddled down the Stour
in a home-made canoe. Now
he urges all of us to explore
our waterways this way
Photos: Martin Pope
42
6043
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The quietude of the canoe allows
unparalleled access to wildlife, which isn’t disturbed by the
craft; sand martins are a familiar sight; the rhythmic splash of a
paddle has a lulling charm; Matt carries the canoe out of the water
given myself to it, never allowed myself
to sense its timeless flow.
It was, and still is every time I get in a
canoe, a strange experience: one of
complete engagement with a landscape
that has previously been hidden. It is as
if rivers are veins beneath the skin of
the land with the power to take me into
the wild and watery heart of things.
I think it was on this first small trip – a
wet run to test the canoe – I found that
I didn’t know this country after all.
“In the canoe we are free to
Over the next few months I travelled wander, alone and unchecked,”
by canoe whenever I could, both with writes Matt of the lure of the water
James and alone. We explored the
familiar – the Lark, near our home of
Bury St Edmunds, the Colne, the Alde are not a journalist, a father, an artist my perspective, it also ushered me
and the Granta – but also ventured or a friend. The salesman is drowned, into the wild. Aside from the fact that
across the UK, seeking new rivers, new the doctor turned to bubbling foam, it is impossible to follow most rivers on
waterscapes. On our quiet adventures, office walls overcome in a surging flood. foot, the quietness of the canoe (even
we paddled along everything from the For me, part of the pull of the river is with the most rookie strokes) brought
smallest tributaries to stent-straight a sense of escape, of adventure. Rivers me within touching distance of wildlife.
canals and broad-backed flows are often borders, both to counties and We glided close enough to herons to
hurrying towards the sea. Over chalk, see the burning
gravel, clay and mud. Through fields, gold of their eyes,
woodland, villages, towns and cities. “We glided close enough glimpsed the
that allows landowners to seek damages or an injunction. aable to enjoy our rivers seems little more than a pipe dream.
www.countryfile.com 45
The trips revealed how stunning the
UK’s diverse waterways are. Sleepy
lowland flows with bosky banks;
places where the world becomes six-
dimensional, trees above and reflected
below; lively water that surges through
gorges and the wild expanse of Scottish
lochs as dark and as deep as space.
While the canoe unlocked a secret
window into this new sparkling world,
it was also a means to see degradation
and neglect. The river, once revered
and sacred, a place of nymphs, spirits
and gods, had been trammelled by
Matt paddles past King’s College on the River Cam in Cambridge concrete, blocked by weirs and even
buried alive. On nearly every waterway
Otter in Devon. Sitting on a river that swollen state of the upper Thames, I paddled there were signs of sewage
had turned silent with the night, I promptly sank. If it were not for the outflows, litter, pollution and
watched in awe as a wild beaver swam kindness of a stranger who helped us, sometimes hardly any water at all.
past me to graze on a thicket of willow. I don’t know what we would have done. But for all the problems, I couldn’t
The moment endures partly due to my Without wishing to be too dramatic, help falling for the rivers’ spell. As
surprise. I’d assumed that beavers, so I’m not sure if we would have survived. I paddled they travelled through me,
heavy and ungainly out of water, would The sinking was genuinely terrifying. shaping me as surely as any bank.
blunder and splash, but this creature It was also a vital wake-up call about I’m often asked if I have a favourite.
was the epitome of grace. Her black how we approached our journeys. In truth, I couldn’t choose between
squash-ball of a nose cut through the Rivers and waterscapes are not there them – each has been special, each
water like a speed boat’s prow. to be conquered; they are encountered has offered up its own secrets. CF
Being on the water was a learning and respected. The water itself doesn’t
curve. When we set out, neither James care if it runs over gravel, mud, flesh or Matt Gaw is a writer and journalist.
nor I knew anything about canoeing bone. We learnt the hard way but His first book, The Pull of the River: A
and during those early trips we fell in, gradually we became able to read the Journey Into the Wild and Watery Heart
careered into trees and banks, and rivers as they opened up to us. We went of Britain is out now (Elliott & Thompson,
after ignoring warnings about the with the flow. £14.99). Find him tweeting @MattGaw
46 www.countryfile.com
YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME
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COUNTRYFILE ISSUES
JOHN CRAVEN
RURAL COMMUNITIES TOAST THE NHS AT 70
wo things that we turn outpatient’s department for the
T to instinctively when
our health, or that of
those we know or love,
is threatened are the
NHS and a nice cup of tea. So,
in a neat twist, scores of
independent charities that
hospital’s new radiotherapy unit
at a cost of £1.75m. Until now,
hundreds of patients have had to
travel to Poole for treatment,
which can involve a round-trip of
100 miles or more. “This takes its
toll,” said Rachel. “Sometimes
support the health service are patients are forced to make the
organising fund-raising tea difficult decision to refuse
parties across the nation early radiotherapy treatment entirely
in July to celebrate its 70th as it is too difficult to get there.”
anniversary. For many, the new centre in
Many will be in rural areas that Dorchester will be much nearer.
have been badly affected
ff by The charity has also funded
cut-backs – but that won’t stop £160,000 to provide more
people putting out the teacups, haemodialysis at home, so kidney
Villages across the country will be hosting a NHS Big 7Tea,
sandwiches, scones and cakes to to raise funds for charities that support the health service patients don’t have to spend
show gratitude to the doctors three days a week in hospital.
and hospital staff ff who battle on Said one: “This has been life-
with whatever resources they changing for me. I’m in charge of
have – and to the charities that
help them. The events, under
“Teacups and cakes my life again.”
Dorchester will be throwing a
the banner of the NHS Big 7Tea,
will invite those taking part to
will be put out to show Big 7Tea party at the hospital
and the charity, like others, is
decide where their money will go
– and there are more than 250
gratitude to doctors urging local businesses and the
public to organise their own
charities to choose from.
Backtrack to 5 July 1948,
a ”
and hospital staff parties with friends, at work, or
in the local community centre
when Labour’s health secretary or village hall.
Aneurin Bevan launched the bus services and fewer cars, an I’ll certainly be raising a cuppa
NHS at a Manchester hospital. older population and the to the NHS on its big day because
For the first time, he said, health centralisation of services in over the years the Craven family
care would be free to everyone at towns and cities. Which is why have been regular ‘customers’,
the point of delivery and the rural NHS charities can bring from routine visits to the doctor
annual budget (in today’s terms) much comfort. I’ve been looking to minor emergencies and major
was £15 billion. The concept is at the work of just one of them – operations. The system is far
still much the same (though the Dorset County Hospital from perfect and every day it
prescription, dental and optical Charity in Dorchester. makes headlines, often negative
charges now apply) but the cost “Our aim is to provide support ones, but where would we be
has rocketed to £143 billion. above and beyond the NHS without it?
budget,” said Rachel Cole, one of
DISTANT CURES its three-strong staffff In the last For more information on how you can
The problems facing patients financial year, it did this thanks hold a tea party go to
www.nhsbig7tea.co.uk
and providers in urban areas to an income of nearly £1m from
are magnified in the countryside donations, events and legacies. Watch John on
Photo: Getty
because of longer distances to Its latest mission has been to Countryfilee on Sunday
surgeries and hospitals, poorer build a cancer and haematology evenings on BBC One.
www.countryfile.com 49
“If you start losing farms in a
rural community, you are
in danger of losing the school
and the shop.” Sue Hayman
Catch up
If you missed
our interview with
Environment Secretary Looking east from Carreg Cennen
Michael Gove, find it at
countryfile.com Castle over hill farmland toward
the Black Mountain, Wales
SUE HAYMAN
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW
SUE HAYMAN
Labour’s election manifesto pledged to halt the badger cull and the party says it will
not allow Brexit to dilute environmental standards. But what is its vision for the
countryside? Mark Rowe speaks to Shadow Environment Secretary Sue Hayman
MR: Do you have any personal SH: From my mother’s sheep farm, I am
connections to the countryside? personally aware of the challenges that face
SH: I consider myself grounded in the the hill farm sector. If you start losing farms
countryside. Apart from university, it’s where in a rural community, then you are in danger
I have always lived. My mother’s family were of losing the school and the shop.
hill sheep farmers in Wales and we now have
a smallholding in Cumbria [Hayman is the MR: Do you worry that farming will be
MP for Workington] that farmers put their traded off in any Brexit and wider trade
cattle and sheep on. It’s part of an SSSI, we deals? It’s often said that farming
have a couple of beehives there and we’re contributes just 0.7% of UK GDP.
working with the Rivers Trust to improve SH: You can look at statistics in different
and encourage wildlife. I enjoy walking in the ways– you could also say that food and
fells and taking the dog walking in Scotland. drink production and exports are worth a
I feel I am a country person. great deal. It’s incredibly important that
experts in farming and different farming
MR: It’s been said that Labour is an organisations are involved [in the
urban party and it doesn’t really negotiations]. Farmers feel that they are
understand the countryside. You will constantly ‘done to’. It’s important they
disagree with that perception – but and as to how we replace CAP. We need to become part of the conversation. In my
how do you go about changing it? ask how we can support farmers who do the constituency, farmers feel out of the loop.
SH: We are always looking to work closely most public good. We have farmers in the During floods they see experts come from
with other [shadow] departments to ensure Lake District who are being really London, but the farmers have been here
that we have a rural perspective in our productive and doing good for the for generations, they know the land better
policies and that rural issues, such as environment at the same time. It’s the than anyone and why it floods. Farmers
schools and bus services, are integrated farmers who have created the lovely need to be listened to more.
with our wider strategies. We have got landscape of the Lake District, which was
some good people in the party who recently designated a World Heritage Site. MR: How would you ensure that wildlife
understand that. Farmers are doing a huge amount for the and environmental standards are not
environment and that needs to be watered down after Brexit?
MR: A lot of people were taken by recognised. We need to look at the farms SH: We put forward an amendment to the
surprise by how many farmers voted for that are doing well in this area and roll that Withdrawal Bill with respect to both the
Brexit. Why do you think they did? out. We just need to make sure that we Habitats and Birds Directives, that both
SH: Many of them have said to me that the don’t undermine the farming industry. should be brought back entirely into English
Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) hasn’t One of the problems we have is that law. We certainly don’t want them watered
always been that popular. They just feel profitability is too dependent on direct down. It’s also important that civilians retain
there could be a better way of working. payments. If you just hand over money, you the right to challenge the Government on
are not helping farmers to stand on their environmental rights.
MR: Do you see Brexit as an opportunity own feet. The question is, how do we make
to rethink how we farm, and how farming more resilient? MR: What about food and animal welfare
farmers are subsidised? What do we standards?
do with the £3bn that UK farming MR: Incomes of many hill farms are SH: Farmers are very, very concerned
Photo: Alamy
receives at the moment? incredibly low – surely we will have to that we don’t get overwhelmed by cheap,
SH: There are huge challenges to get it right continue to subsidise such farms? substandard food in any post-Brexit
www.countryfile.com 51
LEFT Sue Hayman with Max on Low Fell,
overlooking Crummock Water in the
Lake District
52 www.countryfile.com
The difference is clear
with a Thomas Sanderson
Conservatory Care valet
Before After
54 www.countryfile.com
O
www.countryfile.com 55
he river runs louder now, a leads, straining to be let off and back
56 www.countryfile.com
RIVER DOVE
Photos Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
made by a young girl who then threw project is now underway to begin to will park at Milldale and walk down
herself from the top, distraught at the take them out. Paintings of Dovedale towards the stepping stones. But if you
loss of her lover in the Napoleonic Wars. dating to the 1700s are being used to like your countryside quieter, it is well
Most of the features for which the inform the restoration plan. worth walking upstream of Milldale
valley is renowned have their stories, Keep on the path upstream and an towards Wolfscote Dale, where the
not least the weirs – there are an hour or so of walking will find you at
amazing 177 of them along the 11km Milldale. The ancient packhorse
between the stepping stones and bridge here crosses to a hamlet with a
upstream to small café that
Wolfscote Dale. can provide a
As perfect as “It is easy enough to welcome drink
it may look, all and snack
is not well with find some shade through a hatch
the river – the
valley is under an alder tree in the wall.
Nobody
designated as
an SSSI and the
and watch the quiet knows quite
how old that ART OF THE DOVE
Photos Phil Sproson, Alamy, Buxton Museum and Art Gallery
river is failing to
reach the life of a river unfold” packhorse
bridge is, but it
Dovedale is one of the most depicted
scenes in English art, with paintings
required is mentioned in and drawings dating to the 1700s.
standards. The reason is all these Izaak Walton’s book The Compleat Together with an extensive photographic
weirs – they are stopping the river from Angler, first published in 1653, and it survey conducted in the 1920s, these
flowing as it should, starving it of wasn’t new then. This book marks the depictions are helping to inform the
oxygen and causing it to silt up, which beginning of the Dove’s long ‘Letting the Dove Flow’ restoration
is not good for wildlife. Most of these association with fly-fishing. project, as conservationists try to return
weirs were put in by angling clubs in the Most people will park at Dovedale the river to a more natural state.
1920s and 30s, and a river restoration and walk up towards Milldale. Others
www.countryfile.com 57
Hazel dormice are in
danger of dying out.
Please sponsor a dormouse house for just £5 and help us save the vulnerable
hazel dormouse from extinction. Go to ptes.org/house-a-dormouse
www.ptes.org | enquiries@ptes.org | 020 7498 4533
People’s Trust for Endangered Species, 3 Cloisters House, 8 Battersea Park Road, London SW8 4BG
river changes character, becoming “It is quite hard to get your head
smaller and more intimate. around, because it does look lovely,”
Through Milldale, I take the steps says Julie as we walk along its banks.
back down to the river from the lane, “But if you look at it closely, the river is
emerging in a working landscape. Here in a kind of straightjacket.”
the Staffordshire
ff bank is grazed and Natalie is interested in documenting
one is likely to find sheep ahead. the removal of the weirs, keeping in
The path then takes me through old mind that Dovedale is as much about its
woodlands of ash, elm and oak. I stand people as it is about its natural history.
for a moment, watching the sunlight “Although you might think, ‘it’s just a
flickering through leaves on to the TOP Author Andrew Griffiths fishing the weir, why is it important?’, it is a part of
moss-covered boulders strewn down famous Pike Pool on the River Dove a history of the park,” says Natalie. “The
the slope of the valley. A tree, away ABOVE Julie Wozniczka (left) of the Trent Peak District has a huge time depth to
from the path, catches my attention Rivers Trust and archaeologist Natalie Ward it, with each generation leaving its mark
– it is so old that its trunk looks like of the Peak District National Park – not sweeping away everything that
stone. Ivy stems as thick as a child’s went before, but changing and adding
arm are petrified around it. They may look attractive but, over the to it. These weirs are part of that story.”
decades, they are suffocating
ff the river. Volunteers are being trained to
WEIR SCIENCE I walk a while with Julie Wozniczka, document the weirs as they’re removed,
For the first couple of miles the weirs project manager from the Trent Rivers so the record of their presence is not
are all intact and frequent, described Trust, and Natalie Ward, senior lost for future generations.
rather coyly as ‘cascades’ in the guide conservation archaeologist with the
books. There is something mythical Peak District National Park. The river NATURAL ADAPTION
about these weirs. They look so pretty, restoration project, ‘Letting the Dove Walk beyond the neat order of the
Photo Phil Sproson
but the flow of the river is noticeably Flow’, has the tricky job of persuading maintained weirs and the structures
slower here and this is the barb everybody connected with the river start to break down again, with time as
concealed in their beautiful embrace. that pulling out the weirs is a good idea. the engineer, no help needed from us.
www.countryfile.com 59
RIVER DOVE
Photos Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Near the head of Wolfscote Dale, the
river is really breaking free of its
straightjacket, and is dotted with
moss-covered stones and islands of
butterbur. Here, in places, it achieves
one fine definition of a stream – a good
run-up and you could jump it. Above,
you might be lucky enough to see a
peregrine swooping from the clifftops.
ff
I walk through into Beresford Dale
to find the quiet intimacy of Pike Pool,
mentioned in The Compleat Angler, HIGHLIGHTS OF THE UPPER DOVE
where Izaak Walton fished with his Dovedale is renowned for its limestone rock eat your sandwiches, prepare to have a
friend Charles Cotton, and modern fly formations and caves, so characteristic of brazen duck sitting on your foot.
fishing was born. In the 10 miles or so the geology of this region. The Dove Holes Don’t neglect the river upstream of
from the stepping stones at Dovedale to are two impressive caves, while Ilam Rock Milldale. For the adventurous, take the 442
Wolfscote Dale and on to Beresford and Pickering Tor are striking rock bus from Buxton to Tissington, walk the two
Dale, I have experienced one of the formations. There is also the huge limestone miles through to Dovedale and the length of
most beautiful valley walks in England. arch known as Reynard’s Cave, and the the river to Beresford Dale and Pike Pool,
It is a valley of contrasts, all threaded limestone promontory, Lover’s Leap. one of the most famous angling locations in
together by the historic River Dove. CF Viator’s Bridge, an old packhorse bridge the world. Climb over the hill to Hartington
mentioned in Izaak Walton’s Compleat and pick up the 442 back to Buxton again.
Andrew Griffiths writes about fly Angler is breathtakingly narrow and still Allow a leisurely summer’s day for this – it is
fishing and the environment. He fly fishes stands at Milldale. Cross the bridge for a one of the prettiest bus journeys in England.
for wild brown trout and offers specialist snack from the café there. But be warned: (Check timetables for latest information.)
Photos Alamy
guiding services on the River Dove and if you rest on the bench beside the river to highpeakbuses.com/442
other historic rivers in the English North.
60 www.countryfile.com
INCLUDING
TWO GRAIN
FREE RECIPES
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THE SUMMERTIME?
OW ITS EASY TO DO THE RIGHT THING
Steeve Jenkinson, advisor to the Kennel Club and TV presenter, Jules
Huudson discussed the Microscopic Menaces inside dog poop.
Leeaving poop is very dangerous to sheep and cattle, costing farmers
millions. Steve said “When you make it easy for people to do the
right thing, it works!” The Dicky Bag is an airtight, lightweight,
sooft, robust, neoprene portable bin, that’s machine washable. The
bag attaches to you or the dog using the karabiner, belt loop or
velcro strap. You can’t see it, you can’t smell it, leaving your hands
free to enjoy your Idyllic dog walk.
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SUFFRAGETTE
SWIMMERS
Just a century ago, Britain’s rivers, lakes and pools were the
domain of male swimmers only. It took a generation of pioneering
Photos: Getty, Science & Scoiety, Alamy
60
062
0 www.countryfile.com
o o
CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN Enthusiastic
participants dive in to the annual Kew to Putney
ladies’ swimming race in the Thames, London,
1926-1927; fun and frolics in Folkestone, 1913;
the famous ‘lady swimmer’ Agnes Beckwith
w
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SWIMMING WOMEN
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT An illustration
depicting women
splashing in the sea in the
1820s; girls paddling in
the waves by a bathing
machine in the 1900s;
an elaborate swimming
outfit from 1849
one pool in London, one morning a week, and so It was unheard of, for girls to do such a thing.
our story inches forward. Class politics loomed When teenage Emily Parker did a similar river
www.countryfile.com 65
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT Swimming costumes
in the one-piece style
introduced by Annette
Kellerman; Gertrude
Ederle, the first woman
to swim the Channel,
smashing the men’s
record; the British 1912
women’s Olympic freestyle
relay team, who brought
home the gold medal in
the first staging of the
event against Germany,
Austria and Sweden
66 www.countryfile.com
SWIMMING WOMEN
www.countryfile.com 67
FUNNY FISHERMEN
The series offers a charming mix of
beautiful landscape, footage of the pair
angling and entertaining exchanges as
they perch on the banks. It has a
relaxed, genial pace, featuring the
contemplative calm of the fishing
and the evident rapport between
Paul and Bob. Natural comics, their
conversations veer from the sublime
to the ridiculous at the drop of a hat,
with silly accents and quick-fire retorts
peppering deeper philosophical
discussions. “None of it is scripted, it’s
just us talking rubbish,” says Paul.
Paul’s favourite episode is where
they fish for barbel on the River Wye in
Herefordshire, where he and his Dad
on the river
fish; they’re strong and magnificent.”
Bob was so taken by the lifestyle of
the fish he observed that he’d happily
switch places with one. “If I were a
Catchphrases are so last decade. Instead, comedians British wild animal, I’d have to be a
tench. It lives a lovely, lazy life at the
Paul Whitehouse and Bob Mortimer have teamed up bottom of the lake, seemingly sleeping
a lot and taking the odd gulp of food
to catch something far more elusive – Britain’s fish that may pass by.”
By Maria Hodson How did Paul find travelling with Bob?
“It was an absolute joy,” he says. “He’s
his summer Bob Mortimer very funny; his mind is so strange.”
chance to have one last adventure having had three stents fitted himself. celebration of ageing, childhood, the
together before we snuff it was “The series isn’t a contrivance – I’d countryside, fishing and friendship.” CF
irresistible,” says Bob. started taking him fishing anyway,”
“I sold it to Bob by saying fishing is notes Paul. “We thought, ‘this is quite
Mortimer and Whitehouse: Gone
long periods of boredom punctuated funny – two old gits who could drop Fishing starts in June on BBC Two.
by short, sharp periods of incredibly dead at any minute’. The jeopardy You can also catch Paul and Bob at
intense boredom,” says Paul. “As a element is what TV people like.” Countryfile Live this August (see over).
68 www.countryfile.com
“Fishing is diverting – you
forget about the world and
immerse yourself in nature”
Paul Whitehouse
BBC Countryfile Live 2018
The Countryfile Experience
At this year’s spectacular country show, all fans of Countryfilee can go behind the scenes to
meet the team and find out how episodes are made, says producer Rebecca Hanmer
his year at BBC Countryfile the team’ and find out exactly who answers to these questions and more
explore how this once-smallscale from mountain and dale to coast and For anyone who loves Countryfile and
Sunday morning rural affairs
ff moor, and discover the realities of a wants a genuine peek behind the
programme has gone from strength to Countryfile shoot. How long does it scenes, this is the experience for you.
strength since it started in July 1988. take to film one programme? Who
The Countryfile Experience will give does what when the crew is out in the Next month!
you direct insight into how the field? And how do we battle through Don’t miss our full preview of
programme is made, as you can ‘meet the Great British weather? Find out the BBC Countryfile Live
70 www.countryfile.com
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
SUMMERTIME
There is a lot of fun to be had this summer, for most of us it’s the best time of the year for
exploring the countryside. Turn the page for inspiration on the very best summertime
events, days out, food and much more...
DAYS OUT/EVENTS
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A JOYOUS CELEBRATION
OF ‘MERRIE ENGLAND’
his summer, Barrie Rutter is bringing the rarely
performed ‘The Two Noble Kinsmen’ to Shakespeare’s
Globe. Inspired by the play’s Morris language and
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River Thames.
Written by John Fletcher and William Shakespeare, ‘The
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DAYS OUT/EVENTS
WINDSOR
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sightseeing bus tour or river trip.
See some of Windsor’s most talked about sights, learn
interesting facts about the town and be entertained by
an action packed live commentary before the sensational
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river taking in breath-taking views of Windsor Castle is not
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It’s tremendous fun for all ages, young and old. Whether
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friends, a special celebration or even a trip with that
special someone.
Private hire is available. Why not plan a school trip with us or
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Daily public tours run 7 times a day, 7 days a week in
peak times. With a choice between our Mallard (50:50
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Opposite The Theatre Royal Windsor, SL4 1PS at the base
of Windsor Castle. A short 5-10 minute walk from both of
Windsor’s train stations.
All commentaries are presented in English by a live tour guide.
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DAYS OUT/EVENTS
SUMMER GETAWAYS
PRODUCTS
HAYMAX
Great
days out www.countryfile.com/walks
www.countryfile.com/walks 77
CONTENTS WALK: River Wharfe and Bolton Priory, North Yorkshire
Your handy guide to this
month
month’ss Great Days Out DELUGE IN THE DALES
Anthony Burton walks the sylvan banks of a Yorkshire river, from the dramatic
ruins of a 12th-century priory to the grandiose arch of an old stone bridge
p84
p91
he River Wharfe is escarpments; picturesque village of Bolton Abbey: the
a waterway of great Kettlewell and Grassington name is a bit of a misnomer as
p78 contrasts and beauty, that seem to epitomise there has never been an abbey
p95
rising high up in the hills rural peace; and vast areas here, only the Priory From the
p87 that separate Dentdale of flanking moorland dotted village, the route is signposted
p88
from Wharfedale as a busy with the remains of a once- to the entrance of the estate
p92
p82
little steam, burbling over thriving lead mining industry. and the priory ruins.
a series of flat limestone The river itself is unpolluted The Priory was founded by
ledges. It’s an area of peace and famous for its brown trout. the Cistercians in the middle
DELUGE IN THE DALES and quiet and a good spot to As the water flows to the of the 12th century and was
River Wharfe sit and watch dippers diving east, the countryside changes. gradually extended over the
North Yorkshire, p78 for insect larvae. The limestone-topped hills years. Like all the great monastic
Hemmed in by hills, the river are replaced by the dark buildings of England, it fell
WATERSIDE WAGTAILS flows through Langstrothdale, lines of gritstone, marking the victim to the great dissolution
River Plym and Meavy past the villages of Yockenwaite edge of Ilkley Moor and Otley ordered by Henry VIII, and vast
and Hubberholme and into Chevin. The river turns north swathes of the estate around
Devon, p82
Wharfedale. Although broader to Wetherby then south again Wharfedale disappeared.
and calmer than it is further to reach the brewery town of As you walk through the
FOREST FALLS upstream, the Wharfe still has Tadcaster, before eventually grounds, you can see hollows
River Braan its dramatic moments, such as flowing into the River Ouse. that were once well-stocked
Perthshire, p84 the surging waterfalls at Linton. fish ponds. The actual Priory
The surrounding scenery is 1 STEPPING STONES church was more fortunate –
LAND FROM just as special: hills topped by The walk begins half way along much of it remains as a
THE WATER the pale outlines of limestone the course at the car park in the magnificent ruin, and the
nave was retained as the
River Nene parish church, as it still is
Northamptonshire, p87 THE ROUTE today, though much restored.
6 MILES | 3 HOURS | MODERATE The former gatehouse,
GORGE-OUS WYE meanwhile, was bought by
River Wye the Earl of Cumberland who
Herefordshire, p88 5 transformed it into the very
grand Bolton Hall that still
RIVERBANK FORTRESS stands close to the Priory.
4 From the church, a path
River Coquet leads down to the river bank,
Northumberland, p91 where walkers have a choice:
if they are feeling adventurous,
CHALK STREAM LIFE they can cross on the stepping
Marshcourt River stones; if they don’t fancy
Hampshire, p92 risking spending the rest of
3 the day with wet feet, they
THUNDER CASCADE can take the footbridge.
Afon Cynfal 2 RIVERSIDE WOODS
SCAN HERE
Gwynedd, p95 to access this
route on your Here the river is dominated
mobile device
2 by a dramatic rock face that
RIVERSIDE B&BS 1 IN ASSOCIATION WITH falls vertically into the water.
Top 7 Turn left across the bridge
Nationwide, p96 to follow the river upstream.
78 www.countryfile.com/walks
OS map image: ©Crown copyright Ordnance Survey Photo Getty GREAT DAYS OUT
www.countryfile.com/walks 79
The Dales Way runs alongside the River Wharfe
through Strid Wood, home to roe deer, otters,
kingfishers and great spotted woodpeckers
A pleasant path leads refreshments, now or on the 4 THE STRID 5 EASTERN BANKS
across grassland, following return. The route turns right to The River Wharfe reaches This brings you to a handsome
a line of trees at the foot continue through Strid Wood. a climax at The Strid itself. castellated stone bridge where
of the hill to reach a stile. The footpath stays close Here, the water is forced a glance upstream explains
Once across, there is a short to the river’s edge as the into a narrow channel why it is so grand: it can be
climb up a hillock to reach strong scent of the forest between the rocky sides, seen from nearby Barden
the entrance to the riverside proliferates through the through which it rushes Tower The original fortified
woods. The mixed woodland air. The river now becomes at great force. The gap tower was built in the 11th
contains holly and sycamore very turbulent, racing round has tempted many to leap century and fell into disrepair
but is dominated by the sessile a large jumble of rocks. across – and for countless before being restored by Lady
oak, easily distinguished from it has ended Anne Clifford
ff of Skipton Castle.
its stouter and more familiar in tragedy, Today it is largely in ruins again
relations by its elongated
leaves and stalkless acorns.
WALKERS WHO ARE sucked beneath
the churning
but has lost none of its grandeur.
This is the turning point of
The route, interlaced with FEELING ADVENTUROUS water to an the walk. You don’t need to
roots, is something of a unfortunate retrace your steps – a number
switchback, taking you up CAN CROSS THE RIVER death. of colour-coded nature trails
to the top of the hill and the
edge of the wood before ON STEPPING STONES” A narrow path
leads back from
have been laid out in Strid
Wood, so you can choose
coming back down again. The Strid to the one of these to make your
The main stream disappears main trail, rising above the river way back to Cavendish
3 TURBULENCE temporarily behind an island, with views down to the rocky Pavilion. From here, instead
Where the path emerges by emerging on the far side gorge and, as the trees begin of crossing the river, continue
the road, turn left and make moments later as a more to thin, a wider panorama of on the east bank along easy
your way over the stream placid waterway, the colour moorland up ahead. The path paths back to Bolton Priory.
either by the ford or the of molasses. The scenery then descends to the water.
footbridge. Immediately after, becomes ever more dramatic Cross a small stream over Anthony Burton is
turn left to cross the river by as the valley suddenly narrows a footbridge and, beyond a freelance writer and
the Cavendish Pavilion, an and boulders scatter the that, take the stile on to the the author of a number
attractive place to stop for forest floor. riverside path. of walking guides.
80 www.countryfile.com/walks
GREAT DAYS OUT
How to use
OS Maps
We’ve partnered with
Ordnance Survey,
Great Britain’s National
Mapping Agency.
to statues of the Virgin Mary. The riverside The former south-west tower is now a access to our routes while
walk forms a short part of the long-distance hotel. This is splendid walking country you’re out and about.
Southern Upland Way. with the Offa’s
ff Dyke Path close by.
www.countryfile.com/walks 81
GREAT DAYS OUT
82 www.countryfile.com/walks
WALK: River Braan, Perthshire
RUMBLING FOREST FALLS
Keith Fergus follows the River Braan’s white water through a fabled woodland of giant
Douglas firs, fairy-tale bridges and an ancient oak immortalised by Shakespeare’s Macbeth
espite appearing As a result, the woods became creating the artificial Ossian’s one mile to another fork. Turn
2 CONIFER TO DECIDUOUS
were planned by the Dukes and JMW Turner. Douglas fir, at 201 feet, is the
of Atholl in the 1700s. Cutting Also around this time, fourth tallest tree in Britain. Veer left to another junction
the forest in two are the the Scottish poet James then go right and follow a
gorgeously clear waters of Macpherson declared that 1 BURN AND BEYOND forestry track, signposted Inver
the River Braan, where a he had discovered the ancient Take Birnam Glen Road Car Park. Soon after, bear right
series of cascades descend poems of the Gaelic bard (signposted Inchewan Path) on to a track and descend
to Black Linn waterfall before Ossian and translated them from Birnam, under the A9, to an intersection. Take the
flowing into the River Tay into English. Although it is now past Dunkeld/Birnam Railway Braan Path to Rumbling
near Dunkeld. accepted that Macpherson Station. At a crossroads, keep Bridge and then climb to
In the 18th century, a small wrote the poems himself, the straight on then go right at the Inchewan Braan Path.
viewing platform was built at Dukes of Atholl exploited the a fork into woodland. Climb The trail meanders through
The Hermitage above the story by renaming the viewing gently south-west alongside deciduous woodland, passing
raging torrent of the Black Linn. platform Ossian’s Hall and the Inchewan Burn for about to the south of Dundonnachie
84 www.countryfile.com/walks
GREAT DAYS OUT
cottage. Keep left at a track 5 BENEATH THE TRACKS The bottom three metres of the
into open countryside and walk Follow the path away from famous Birnam Oak are hollow
south-west, passing a house at The Hermitage, keeping the
Tomgarrow w to reach a junction. Braan to the right. Once under
a railway arch, walk through a
3 RUMBLING BRIDGE car park. Just before the A9
Turn right and descend a turn right and follow a narrow
narrow road to the A822. road past Inver,r turning left at a
Cross the road and take the Forestry Commission car park.
woodland path to a viewpoint Continue to a bridge spanning
high above Rumbling Bridge the River Braan then take this
and the River Braan – this under the A9.
spot greatly impressed Queen
Victoria when she visited in 6 GIANT OAK
1865. At the next fork go right, Turn left on to a path and walk
continue to a narrow road, turn to the confluence of the River
right and walk across Rumbling Braan and the Tay. Go right and
Bridge with the Braan’s torrent follow the Tay, soon passing the
of white water rushing below. huge Birnam Oak k – thought
to be the last remnant of
4 BLACK LINN FALLS the ancient Birnam Wood,
When the road sweeps left, immortalised by Shakespeare
go right through a gate where in Macbeth. Beyond the tree,
a path drops gently downhill. turn right up steps on to a path
When it splits, keep right that bears right to the road.
and walk through glorious Follow this back to the start.
woodland alongside a section
of the River Braan all the way Keith Fergus lives in
to the impressive Ossian’s Glasgow and escapes
Hall and a breathtaking view to the Highlands
of the Black Linn falls. whenever he can.
5 1
2
SCAN HERE
to access this
route on your
mobile device
3
Photos Alamy
www.countryfile.com/walks 85
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GREAT DAYS OUT
canoe and homemade raft. resting in the reeds, fluttering energising tiring arms. Eastern England.
www.countryfile.com/walks 87
WALK: River Wye, Herefordshire/Gloucestershire/Monmouthshire
88 www.countryfile.com/walks
GREAT DAYS OUT
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The River Wye flows from Plynlimon in the Cambrian Mountains, between Herefordshire’s tree-topped limestone gorges
(above) and into the Severn Estuary; the Biblins suspension bridge; bear and hyena bones were found in King Arthur’s Cave; Symonds Yat hand ferry
Photos Alamy
www.countryfile.com/walks 89
GREAT DAYS OUT
www.countryfile.com/walks 91
DAY OUT: Marshcourt River, Hampshire
THE LIFE OF A
CHALK STREAM
This small stretch of river in southern England
abounds with creeping water rails, singing warblers
and shimmering brown trout, says Kevin Parr
ngland is home to and the wildlife that thrives
92 www.countryfile.com/walks
GREAT DAYS OUT
“ SWATHES OF WATER
CROWFOOT SWING WITH
THE RIVER’S CURRENT”
www.countryfile.com/walks 93
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E-Mail: africanqueen@btconnect.com
Explore the best
Contact Bonny Cowley 07774917389
riverside walks
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GREAT DAYS OUT
slopes and then suddenly water appear to stand on top of scoured black walls around writer and walker.
www.countryfile.com/walks 95
TOP SEVEN
RIVERSIDE
B&BS 2
6
Idyllic views, comfy beds and
5
peaceful walks – here are seven of 3 7
4
Britain’s best bed and breakfasts 1
by the river. By Kelsey Rees
1
1 THE BOATHOUSE, BATH
This quiet little country house
on the banks of the River Avon
5 CRAIG-Y-DDERWEN,
BETWS-Y-COED
Found in the heart of Snowdonia
offers nine delightful rooms on the banks of the River Conwy
with modern amenities. It’s is Craig-y–Dderwen country
perfect for a peaceful escape house. This pet-friendly
from the city, but still within a lodging is well placed to explore
comfortable walk of Bath Abbey the many wonders of the
and The Jane Austen Centre. famous national park, and
boathouse-bath.co.uk offers rooms that combine
modern facilities (such as hot
96 www.countryfile.com/walks
GREAT DAYS OUT
5 6
7
Photos Alamy
www.countryfile.com/walks 97
READER IMAGES
YOUR GREAT DAYS OUT… IN PHOTOS
Share your best photos of the British countryside with us and you could see your image
in print or online and win a great prize. Send your images to Your Photos, BBC Countryfile
Magazine, Tower House, Fairfax Street, Bristol BS1 3BN or email photos@countryfile.com
Photo
of the
month
HIGHLAND VIEW
THE PRIZE By: Malcolm Gray
This month’s winner
Where: Loch Ericht
receives a 32oz Wide
Mouth Drinking Bottle “I took this at the southern
(£34.95) and a 16oz end of Loch Ericht with
Coffee Flip Cup (£21.95) Rannoch Forest behind me
from Hydro Flask. and Ben Alder on the left
TempShield insulation while we were walking
keeps water icy for up through the Highlands.”
to 24 hours and tea
toasty for up to six RIOT OF COLOUR
hours, so whether By: Debbie Neilson
you’re hiking or heading Where: Bo’ness
to the allotment
nt,
Foreshore, Falkirk
you’ll have
refreshment “All the wildflowers were
at your flowering at their best and
fingertips. growing close together,
hydroflask. which made for a lovely
com image. I loved the stunning
colours and natural beauty.”
98 www.countryfile.com/walks
GREAT DAYS OUT
ON THE UP
By: Iain Fazackerley
Where: Mere Sands Wood
reserve, Ribchester,
Lancashire
“I was fortunate enough to
get incredibly close to this
little tree creeper.”
SETTING STONES
By: Harry Feather
Where: Winskill Stones, nr
Settle, North Yorkshire
“This lovely pink light started
to catch the limestone as the
day was coming to a close.”
www.countryfile.com/walks 99
Located next to the magnificent Humber Bridge
on the south bank of the river, the Humber Bridge
Country Hotel is a haven of tranquillity adjacent
to The Lincolnshire Wildlife Trust - one of the
UK’s largest Nature Reserves. Enjoy a whole
host of activities on your doorstep including
birdwatching, walking and cycling. Don’t forget
your 4-legged friends – we’re dog friendly!
www.hbcountryhotel.com
Lazy days
TV › BOOKS › RADIO › LETTERS › MATT › PUZZLES
Reviews editor: Maria Hodson
www.countryfile.com 101
book
of the
month
BOOK a new job full of stress, Helen acquires as a beekeepers, it won’t suit those who prefer
A HONEYBEE HEART gift, a swarm of bees, and subsequently their facts in manuals. But if you care for
HAS FIVE OPENINGS learns how to keep them. What she finds – the wellbeing of bees and planet and for
HELEN JUKES, SCRIBNER, £14.99 (HB) about bees, hives, ecology and beekeeping the state of the human heart, then this
– is clearly presented and, due to being book, with its deft and beautiful prose, is
“Dark points of agitation fly up, integrated into her own life story, easily for you. It weaves in compelling information
away from the hive or straight for digested. This is classic modern nature- about neonicotinoids, habitat loss and the
us, and my gauze mask thuds as writing; a synthesis of scientific learning, use of artificial insemination; antibiotics,
one hits and holds, buzzing. I can’t observation and the author’s response. cross-continental transport and the culling
see them separately anymore; can only As such, A Honeybee Heartt is as much of live bees within the commercial honey
feel the size of the disturbance spreading, about Helen as about her bees, with the industry. And like all good nature writing,
a hot low pulsing that swells until it twin narratives constructed into an it also – quietly, clearly and insistently
surrounds us, and then we are inside it...” intricate, delicate and symbiotic plot. While – requires us, too, to respond.
With a house that is not yet a home and offering
ff important information for Julie Brominicks, outdoors writer
with a young family is igniting Hart’s desire although a wealthy background points to hard with it, knowing that all things can be
for more space and light, in all senses. privileges that have allowed him to pursue bright and beautiful.
Selling up in London to buy a house in rural his garden design dreams. But his past Jude Rogers, journalist and music critic
102 www.countryfile.com
LAZY DAYS
www.countryfile.com 103
Cruise in England
Your countryside
HAVE YOUR SAY ON RURAL ISSUES
Letter
of the
month WALK THROUGH THE PAIN
Having been ‘forced’ into early to go down, my knees
retirement for health reasons, my completely collapsed. Every
husband, Colin, and I embarked on a step back to the car park from
Grand Trek in July 1998. We had always there was agony.
wanted to walk the entire coast of There followed two years of
mainland Britain. We lived in Bognor ineffective
ff treatment. But in
Regis at the time so we walked down to January 2017, I had my right
the seafront from our home and turned knee replaced, a conventional
left. Then we just kept on walking. knee replacement because the
Since 1998, Colin has had three hardware in my right ankle – put there I walk normally, and with enjoyment,
operations on his bladder, and I have after an encounter with black ice in though a trifle slower than before. Just
had five operations on my legs. But we 1999 – was not in the way. don’t get behind me in the queue for
still keep going! In June 2017 we restarted the coastal airport security, that’s all!
We walked to Dover, then up the trail at Abercastle, and by the end of the Rosemary Fretwell
east coast, all round Scotland, down summer we had got to Milford Haven. Worcestershire
the west coast to Wales until we got to In August 2017, exactly two years after (My blog is called Turn Left at Bognor
Abercastle on the Pembrokeshire I had collapsed on Sugar Loaf, we went Pierr leftatbognor.blogspot.com)
Coast. There, in July 2015, my knees back and did the self-same walk. I was
finally told me they would take me no by then 72 years old, and Colin was 75. Editor Fergus Collins replies:
further. We completed the walk successfully, Thank you for sharing your incredible
In August 2015, now living in Malvern, and with great enjoyment. journeys with us – I’m gobsmacked by
we planned a six-mile walk in the nearby I have, to date, buried in my legs: your courage and humour through
Brecon Beacons, taking in a small • One stainless steel pin such a series of traumas. Well done
mountain called Sugar Loaf. We got to • One titanium plate for keeping at the walking and we
the top of Sugar Loaf okay, and stopped • A total of eleven screws look forward to hearing about your
to admire the views. But as we started • And two new knees next mission.
THE PRIZE
This star letter wins two lovely books about the outdoors: There’s Always the Hills by Cameron McNeish (Sandstone Press, £19.99)
and The Walker’s Guide to Outdoor Clues and Signs by Tristram Gooley (Sceptre, £20).
TICKED OFF at least a week, twice a year. Also, we’re organised. Dogs like and
I hate the clocks changing (Sara having had dogs for about 55 years, appreciate a regular routine.
Maitland, April issue). Although I I find I am unable to explain to them Barbara Goodyear
have been retired from work for a that their feeding time has changed Louth, Lincolnshire
few years, one still has to conform to by an hour – I usually have to start
the clocks – even if it’s only for on the Friday evening before the SOCIAL WALKERS
hospital or doctor’s appointments! changeover and do it in 20-minute I can’t believe that Sara Maitland
It seems to upset my equilibrium for stints so that by Sunday evening finds it hard to speak to other
www.countryfile.com 105
LAZY DAYS
of the other dog-related issues Romans. It is correct to say though, adaptations of these.
106 www.countryfile.com
Why
have a
when you can have
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ƚŽ ďĞĐŽŵĞ ƚŽŽ ŵƵĐŚ Ă ^ƚŝůƚnj ĚŽŵĞƐƚŝĐ ůŝĨƚ ǁŝůů
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around the house now or are thinking ahead
ĂŶĚ ĨƵƚƵƌĞ"ƉƌŽŽĨŝŶŐ$ ƚŚĞƌĞƐ ŶĞǀĞƌ ďĞĞŶĂďĞƚƚĞƌ
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quietly and uses less energy than a toaster!
• Quick and easy to install
• Advanced safety features
• Small footprint
UE
UNIQ OOR
• /ŶŶŽǀĂƟǀĞ ƚƌĂǀĞů ƐLJƐƚĞŵ
-FL
THRU TEM
• ĂƩĞƌLJ ďĂĐŬ ƵƉ
1 2 3 4 SYS • Economical to use
• &ůĞdžŝďůĞ ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶŝŶŐ ŽƉƟŽŶƐ
• tŚĞĞůĐŚĂŝƌ ŵŽĚĞů ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ
• ŽŵƉƌĞŚĞŶƐŝǀĞ "ŶŽ ƋƵŝďďůĞ$ ŐƵĂƌĂŶƚĞĞ
• ŽƐƚ%ĞīĞĐƟǀĞ ĂŶĚ ĂīŽƌĚĂďůĞ
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• Install in a day*
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ďƵƚƚŽŶƚŽƐƚĂƌƚůŝĨƚ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚĨůŽŽƌ
“ƚŚĂƚI looked at moving costs and worked out
Ă ^Ɵůƚnj >ŝŌ ǁŽƵůĚ ďĞ ĐŚĞĂƉĞƌ dŚĞ ůŝŌ
“
ŚĂƐ ĂůƌĞĂĚLJ ŵĂĚĞ ƚŚŝŶŐƐ ŵƵĐŚ ĞĂƐŝĞƌ
/ƚƐďĞĞŶƚŚĞďĞƐƚĚĞĐŝƐŝŽŶ Ms. Turner, Hereford
ΎĂƐĞĚŽŶŝŶƐƚĂůůŝŶŐĂƵŽ,ŽŵĞůŝŌ;ĂƐƐŚŽǁŶŝŶƉƌĞƉƌĞƉĂƌĞĚĂƉĞƌƚƵƌĞ
TrailB
Bridgeedale, £16.49,
bridgeedale.com
Thesee socks from
Northhern Irish firm
Bridggedale do your
feet a lot of favours.
Cush hioned at the heel
and inn a band around the
base of the toes for extra
comffort and protection,
they aare thinner
elsew
where to let your
feet b
breathe. Ribbing at
the annkle keeps them
closee-fitting, so they
won’t rub. The fabric is
31% mmerino wool, which
keepss odours down,
blendded with durable
man-made fibres. JP
108 www.countryfile.com
Pacer Capri trousers
(women’s), Rohan, £69, SUN HATS
rohan.co.uk
You’re never going to
regret stuffing these
lightweight ¾-length
trousers in your
rucksack in the hope of
hot weather. Designed
for heat, they feature
UPF 40+ sun protection, TH9 Melanie Hempp
but are easy to roll above Hat, Tilley, £70
the knee. They wick Stylish women’s hat made
away moisture, are easy from a hemp fabric that
to wash, dry quickly feels cool but filters out UV
and are made from rays. A wicking headband
fabric that is tough
g and keeps your brow dry. JP
hard-wearing. JB tilley.com/uk
Nima Tee (men’s), Sherpa, £35
sherpaadventuregear.co.uk
The Nia Tee is made of ‘drirelease’ fabric, whichh
feels like cotton but dries four times faster. Its
moisture-wicking properties allow sweat to be
pulled through the shirt for easier evaporation on
high-energy hikes – which keeps it feeling
relatively dry. It is a functional top – lightweightt,
breathable e and stain-resistant – and looks go ood
too.
too Wear as a single layer in hot weather (it has a
UPF rating of 20) or a base layer in winter. DG Lookout Hat,
Sunday Afternoons, £57.99
Traditional-looking waxed
canvas hat with leather
strap and brass details.
Two adjustable sizes. JP
snowandrock.com
www.countryfile.com 109
Country puzzles
RACK YOUR COUNTRYFILE BRAIN WITH THESE WILD AND WONDERFUL GAMES
110 www.countryfile.com
LAZY DAYS
COUNTRYSIDE CROSSWORD
CROSSWORD SOLUTIONS
by Eddie James
JUNE
ACROSS: 8 Heligan
ACROSS 10 Athlone 11 ATV 12 Worms
1 Bird now farmed in the UK (7) 13 Teifi 14/25 Cader Idris
5 Boris confused about a 15 Starlings 16 Renfrew
weather map line (6) 19 Godrevy 21 East Devon
9 Small, dabbling duck ... in 24 Copse 26 Rotor 27 Sap
remote Alderney (4) 29 Nowhere.
10 A large country house style,
it’s said (5) DOWN: 1 Whoa 2 Clevedon
122 Peak District village mail 3 Snarls 4 Garstangg
organisation (4) 5 Whittled 6 Motion
13 Clean beach award (4,4) 7 Devils Dyke 9 Gower
14 Symbol on Pendle’s Way – 14 Cerne Giant 17 Radishes
might enchant you (5) 18 Waverley 20 Exposure
16 Plant’s lateral root forming 22 Sprawl 23/30 Nature
new plant ... to counterbalance reserve 24 Cores 28 Pier.
(6)
18 Acrobatic sorts of pigeons? MAY
(8) ACROSS: 1 Froghopper
20 Former home of Astor DOWN 15 Major wildlife site on Norfolk 7 Cobs 9 Plant 10 Low
family, on Thames Path Trail (8) 2 Scotland’s second highest, Broads – houses nerdy Water 11 Flea 12 Reeks
222 Like the palmate feet of e.g. single drop waterfall – tall as eccentric (6,5) 14 Pack 15 Scythes
geese (6) fells, maybe (6,5) 17 Little Edward ... is to spread 17 Oundle 18 Orchid
24 Stretches of beach in Wales 3 Big waves, used to flatten turf! new-mown grass for drying (3) 20 Boreray 22 Char
and Scotland (5) (7) 19 Gull’s cry – initially muffled 23 Sated 25 Gaff
26 Mountaineers might get sick 4 Cornish river trail – with one entering water (3) 27 Blorenge 29 Water
of this! (8) or two humps? (5) 21 Town on the IOW Coastal 30 Gnaw 31 Pond-skater
28 Young deer (4) 6 Small insectivore – from the Path (7)
30 Like a sickly plant, or area left side of a Shropshire town! (5) 23 Whose market-stall was a DOWN: 2 Repel 3 Granary
overgrown with lots of them? (5) 7 English port at end of Severn shamble in e.g. York? (7) 4 Otter 5 Pullets 6 Raw
31 Sound of a Canada goose (4) Way (7) 25 Scattered seed and 7 Crampon 8 Bletchley
322 Step out – east after famous 8 Partly approach island in embroidered, it’s said (5) 13 Spoor 15 Sarn Helen
River Wharfe feature (6) Morecambe Bay (3) 27 Aromatic herb (5) 16 Hides 19/26 Hardraw
33 Lancashire’s county flower 11 Secretive nocturnal songbird 29 Jack or Jenny in Force 20 Bittern 21 Regatta
(3,4) (11) gymkhanas, surprisingly (3) 24 Downs 28 Nip
We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, please visit Jan-Dec 2017
Photos: Getty
www.countryfile.com 111
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Harrison
veteran, who was suffering
ff with positive emotion, leading to
PTSD and isolated in a civilian helpful behaviours. In another
world that couldn’t understand experiment, participants looking
that he missed the battlefield and up at a tall tree showed
a band of brothers. At his lowest Nature has the power to measurable increases in awe and
point he was suicidal. But he had a
weekly appointment with nature:
heal the human spirit approached moral dilemmas
more ethically than participants
going to woodlands with others who spent the same amount of
who understood, to make a fire, time looking up at a high building.
crafts and simply be outdoors. Historically, our instinct to To get the most out of nature, it
After a while, with his tree associate with other forms of life helps to show up. Being ‘present’
knowledge, he got a job walking makes perfect sense for human makes an even bigger difference.
power line paths to assess risks survival. But in our modern world Last year, I went on a two-hour
from branches. He liked that he with cheap food everywhere, why silent walk with 20 strangers.
could do it alone. He said that does nature have such a powerful That’s not normal for me, usually
being in nature had saved his life. impact? My theory is that blathering on with a bird-botherer
There was a woman in her 30s humans haven’t evolved fast and a camera crew in front. It was
who had been through an awful enough to adapt to our modern a deliberate exercise in meditation
trauma. Nobody knew what it was lives. Only a few hundred years and being fully in the moment.
and she couldn’t share it – she ago, we were animals of the land By the end, we all stood in silence
wouldn’t speak to anyone or even – not long enough to adapt well to looking out on to a river with the
make eye contact. Instead she being creatures of technology. As rain and wind whipping our faces.
communicated with gestures and a result, we now suffer
ff via our While normally I find that
written notes. After working jobs, commutes, screens (which irritating, making me cold and
outdoors with the Wildlife Trust force us to make unhealthy smearing my filming makeup,
just six times, she was speaking to comparisons with strangers) and instead in that moment I felt an
her peers, laughing and making the feeling of not having enough. overwhelming comfort, a message
art, using wire. The first piece she It’s why we endure chronic from the universe that nature was
created was given to the ranger as stress. Acute stress is not a rising to meet me
Photo Oliver Edwards
Watch Ellie on
a gesture of thanks. I know dozens problem for our Palaeolithic Countryfilee on and connecting
of these stories, of people who bodies: we are physiologically Sunday evenings me to the
have been made well by nature. good at being chased by a on BBC One. natural world.
122 www.countryfile.com
Discover
Woburn Abbey and Gardens
NEW EXHIBITION
Humphry Repton: A r t & Nature for
the Duke of Bedford
w w w.woburnabbey.co.uk