2018-11-01 Italia Magazine PDF

ITALIA!
ITALIA!
Issue 168 November 2018 £4.99 NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com
TRAVEL CULTURE PROPERTY FOOD WINE PEOPLE

Issue 168 November 2018
TIMELESS SALENTO
48 HOURS IN SALENTO • HOMES IN ABRUZZO • DISCOVER CASTELLO IN VENICE • VILLA BALBIANO • THE LINGOTTO IN TURIN
Discover Lecce, Italy’s ‘Florence of the South’,

with its heritage, traditions and artisan quarter Living
Italia!
Visit Villa Balbiano 14 pages of
travel, prope expert
rty a
legal advice nd
on stunning Lake Como
THE PERFECT CITY ESCAPE

Explore Castello in the
www.italytravelandlife.com
quiet backwaters of Venice

Celebrate the heritage of Turin’s Lingotto JAMIE IN ITALY
The best red wines from Abruzzo
COOK UP A DELICIOUS
AUTUMN FEAST
11
11
2018 £4.99
November
Issue 168
THE UK’S AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY 9 771744 796085

9 771744 796085
W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !
Welcome! We’re holding onto those sunny days

of summer as long as we can here at
Italia!, and while we can’t deny that
the nights are drawing in fast now, the
sunny skies in our travel features
this month are giving us a welcome
top-up of Vitamin D.
When it comes to planning a
holiday, so much of the enjoyment
comes in the anticipation, which is why we have packed the
issue with plenty of inspiration for your next trip to Italy,
whether you’re going this year or next. We were intrigued
to find out about the papier-mâché (cartapesta) tradition of
Salento on our visit to Lecce, the ‘Florence of the South’.
Lake Como is breathtaking whatever the season, and a visit
to Villa Balbiano, now restored to its former opulence, is a
must. We also recall the former automotive glories of the
Penguin Random House © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited (2018 Jamie Cooks Italy), photography: David Loftus
Cover image © Iain Reid; inset cover image by David Loftus from Jamie Cooks Italy by Jamie Oliver published by
Lingotto building in Turin and explore Castello, one of

Venice’s quieter quarters.
We’re delighted to welcome Jamie Oliver to our food
and drink section with his hearty mains from Tuscany and a
delicious lemon tart from Amalfi, while Diana Henry shares
an elegant supper for friends. Mario Matassa shows us what
to do with our leftovers, the thrifty Italian way, and we have
some splendid red wines from Abruzzo and Italian conserves
that will make welcome additions to your store cupboard.
I do hope you enjoy the issue.
A presto,
ON THE
COVER
Street market,
Lecce, Puglia
Amanda Robinson Editor
PS Planning a trip to Tuscany this year? Our brand-new

This image by Kate Tadman-Mourby
132-page Tuscany and Florence Guide 2018 (£9.99 incl p&p)

is now on sale at www.anthem-publishing.com/italia-guides
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tourist hotspots in Castello. Turn to page 40.
THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

Join us on SARA SCARPA travels FLEUR KINSON JAMIE OLIVER
FACEBOOK, to Puglia this month turns her attention has had a long-abiding
search for Italia! to spend a weekend to Abruzzo, an passion for Italy and
magazine in Salento, the unfairly overlooked Italian food. You
slender heel of Italy’s region of Italy, to might have caught
boot. It’s a timeless assess the property him on TV recently
Follow us
place to visit in any prospects for buyers travelling around
on TWITTER
season, with a rich and investors. She Italy discovering new
at @ItaliaMag
heritage, great food is happy to report recipes and revisiting
and an endless coastline. Follow her as she that the region is very much on the up; the old ones with the help of his friend and
Find us on goes from the golden city of Lecce to the quality of life is good and house buying mentor Gennaro Contaldo. You can try some
INSTAGRAM quieter towns, villages and bays of this opportunities abound. Find out more about of these delicious dishes for yourself here in
at @italia_magazine sunny southern region. Turn to page 20. this beautiful place on page 80. Italia! Find Jamie’s recipes on page 54.
November 2018 ITALIA! 3

59
46 80
IN THISNovember
ISSUE 2018
HOLIDAYS
20 48 HOURS IN SALENTO
FOOD & DRINK
54 JAMIE COOKS ITALY
20
Sara Scarpa travels to Salento in Puglia to Cook up a delicious autumn feast with these
discover the ‘Florence of the South’ set in a authentic Italian recipes by Jamie Oliver.
timeless land ‘beyond the sea’.
59 BEFORE THE PASSEGGIATA
40 THE QUIET SESTIERE Sit down with friends and this southern
Adrian Mourby explores the tranquil Italian supper menu by Diana Henry.
backwaters of Venice in the eastern sestiere
of Castello. 66 VERO ITALIANO
In the latest instalment in his series
27 CULTURE
27 FAST CULTURE
Joe Gartman takes the lift to the top of
uncovering the secrets of Italian food,
Mario Matassa turns to leftovers, and the
wonderful things you can do with them.
the Lingotto building in Turin. 75 DRINK ITALIA!

We taste a selection of the best red wines
32 WORKING WITH WOOD
62
from Abruzzo.
Artists Andrea Brugi and Samina Langholz
reveal how a surprise romance led to the
creation of a successful woodcraft business.
PROPERTY
80 HOMES IN ABRUZZO
36 MAKING TRACKS: TO LAKE COMO Spacious and unspoilt, Abruzzo also has some
Twenty years ago Rachael Martin explored of Italy’s best-value property, so it’s little
Italy and dreamed of rooms with a view. surprise that the market is hotting up right
46 VILLA BALBIANO now, says Fleur Kinson.
One of the most iconic historic dwellings on 90 PROPERTY SHOWCASE
36 the shores of Lake Como, Villa Balbiano is a

glorious masterpiece of Renaissance-style
architecture.
Our regular selection of some of the best
house-buying opportunities in Italy.
4 ITALIA! November 2018

IN THIS ISSUE
p46 LAKE COMO
p40 VENICE
p27 TURIN
p32 TUSCANY
p80 ABRUZZO
SALENTO p20
MORE ITALIA! ON THE COVER

8 READERS’ PHOTO COMPETITION 38 PAST ITALIA!
Send us your photographs of your travels Florence’s Piazza della Signoria is
in Italy and win a bottle of premium named after its palazzo, which is now
Villa Sandi prosecco! also known as the Palazzo Vecchio.
10 NEWS & VIEWS 62 BUY ITALIA!
Catch up with all the The Italians certainly
hottest stories from and make jam well, which is
about Italy.
p20
why we are taking a look
17 TOP 5 EVENTS at seven fine examples. p79
What to see and do in 93 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
Italy this month. Our experts are here to
18 VIEWPOINT help with all your queries.
The Amalfi Coast’s ‘Path 97 ITALIA! FLIGHT GUIDE
of the Gods’ stretches from the hilltop
p40
Your handy guide to
town of Bomerano to Nocelle, a frazione all Italy’s major p27 p54
of Positano. international airports.
30 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA! 98 DRIVE ITALIA!
Summer Sale! Try 3 issues for just £3! In the first in our new series on iconic
After that, you’ll pay £11.20 every Italian cars, we take a spin in a classic p75
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CONTRIBUTORS
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THIS MONTH
News, events, the latest book releases, top retail picks – we
bring you the best of Italy in our monthly round-up
Readers’ Photos
Our pick of your Italian snaps
p8
News & Views
What’s been happening in Italy
p10
Italia! recommends
New openings and courses
p14
What’s on in November
The best events and festivals
p17
A rare opportunity to
see Leonardo da Vinci’s
Codex Leicester at the
Uffizi Gallery in Florence
this month. Read the full
story on page 12

A U G U S T I TA L I A !
THIS MONTH
Readers’ Photos
Send us your favourite Italian travel
photos, and each month the best will win
a bottle of Villa Sandi Il Fresco Prosecco
and exclusive bottle stopper!*
THIS MONTH’S WINNER

Nick Board, Reading
“Rose at the Duomo, Florence.”
Susan Perry, Lucca, Italy

“We have finally moved from
Australia to live in Lucca, and after
five months have accumulated SEE MORE OF
many photos taken by me around YOUR PHOTOS ON
OUR WEBSITE
this amazing part of Italy. We italytravelandlife.com
recently attended an “under the
stars” performance of the famous
Puccini opera Madama Butterfly
at the Gran Teatro on the shores
of Torre del Lago. We took a
small boat across the lake to the
Teatro as the sun was setting and
this was the magical vista as we
motored slowly along.”

PR VIL
OS LA W
ECC S
O & AND IN
BO I IL
TTL FR
E S ESC
!
Vern and Trish Pfannenstiel, TO O
PP
Flagstaff, Arizona, USA
ER
“Clearing storm at Varenna on *
Lake Como, October 2016.”
Fiona Collingwood, Shelton Lock, Derby
“The River Arno in Pisa on a lovely October morning. It was
23 degrees and the light was wonderful on the water.”
Joseph York, Northampton

“A floodlit Piazza Maggiore in the
centre of Bologna was a sight for
sore eyes after seeing an enthralling
encounter between Bologna and
Crotone at the Renato Dall’Ara.”
*Prosecco and bottle stopper delivered to mainland UK addresses only. To find out more about Villa Sandi and Bellavita, see May 2017 issue.
Reg Murray, Broughty Ferry, Dundee
“The Senate building in Rome with the head of Caesar
being projected onto it. It was not where the Senate met
when he was assassinated but it makes for a good photo.”
Paul Whittle, Woking, Surrey

“No dashing for a train here. Opposite the station at Venice HOW TO SEND YOUR PHOTOS Please email high-resolution (300dpi) jpegs of your
photos of Italy to italia@anthem-publishing.com or send prints to ‘Reader Photo
the local police are setting up their speed gun!” Competition’ at the address given on page 6. Please include a brief photo description,
plus your name, delivery address and a phone number (for our couriers). You must be
over 18 to enter. If you don’t wish to receive details of future offers and promotions
Natalia Orel, Calgary, Alberta, Canada from Anthem Publishing, Villa Sandi or Bellavita, please state ‘NO INFO’ on your entry.
“I couldn’t resist taking a picture of this colorful fruit stand
READER OFFER London-based Bellavita specialises in premium-quality Italian food and
in Naples last July. It looked so cheerful and inviting!” wines, delivered from Italy right to your door. Italia! readers get a 10 per cent discount
off Villa Sandi wines and all other products online at www.bellavitashop.co.uk until
1 December 2018 by entering the code ‘italia10’ at the checkout.
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N O V E M B E R I TA L I A !
THIS MONTH
News & Views
Florence bans street eating Artemisia

, Self
Any plans to head to Florence soon? Remember to note the city’s new laws on eating in the Gentileschi
it as Saint
street before you start chomping your panino on the pavement. The new ruling came into force Portra
e of
Catherin
in September and means anyone caught eating on certain city centre streets could face fines
Alexandria
of up to €500. The ban is part of an effort to reduce both litter and congestion in the narrow
– and often crowded – streets of the city, where tourists who gather around local food outlets
make access all the more difficult. The four streets that are covered by the ban are Via de’ Neri,
Piazzale degli Uffizi, Piazza del Grano and Via della Ninna, where restrictions will apply across
peak eating times of 12-3pm and 6-10pm at least until the New Year. A bilingual sign has been
created to direct visitors to “respect residents, traders and workers of this street”. Florence isn’t
the only Italian city to have introduced such measures with regard to al fresco snacking – last
year Rome also banned tourists from eating at some of its historic fountains. Florence’s Via della Ninna
Five reasons to visit 2

One of Italy’s largest lakes, Garda boasts
a winning combination of stunning
Italy’s Lakes 1
scenery, great swimming and watersports,
Lake Maggiore is one of Italy’s beloved pretty towns and several islands, such as Isola
northern lakes. The Borromeo family has dei Conigli (‘Island of the Rabbits’).
dominated three islands on the lake since
the 16th and 17th centuries: Bella, Madre and
Pescatori. On Bella wander the sumptuous
palace and pyramid of terraced gardens; on
Madre explore the lush, exotic gardens around
the family’s summer villa; and on Pescatori
enjoy a plate of fried lake fish on the shore of
this working fisherman’s island. Back on land,
the cobbled streets and squares of Stresa hold
their charm from the days of the Grand Tour.

You tell us...
Image © NurPhoto/SIPA USA/PA Images
We asked our Facebook followers their

thoughts on the best place in Italy to spend a
honeymoon. Here’s what they said:
• Rome, without doubt! I’ve been all over Italy
but nothing comes close to the atmosphere.
Jayne Butler
• Our honeymoon was in Taormina. It really
was beautiful. I also think that a cosy
trullo in Puglia or a cave hotel in Matera
Olivia Colman poses with the Coppa Volpi
could be great for a honeymoon.
for Best Actress Award for The Favourite
Carl Hunt
• Stay in Florence with day trips to wine/castle
Best of the fest tours in Tuscany, Venice and St Mark’s Square,
This year’s Venice International Film Festival celebrated its 75th anniversary and enjoyed a
and Cinque Terre. So romantic…
suitably star-studded week premiering movies from across the globe – several of which are
David L Bowman
already being tipped for success when awards season rolls around. Highlights included the
coveted Golden Lion going to Alfonso Cuarón’s Roma, while Olivia Colman took the Best Actress • Beautiful Bellagio. If you could just supply
prize for her role as Queen Anne in The Favourite, and Best Actor went to Willem Dafoe, playing me with a husband then that’d do nicely!
Vincent van Gogh in At Eternity’s Gate. The festival was lauded for its diverse line-up, while its Helen Mack
inclusion of Netflix-produced titles was noteworthy after such titles were pronounced ineligible • On a gorgeous beach with sparkling blue
for awards at Cannes. However, this year’s event in Venice was criticised for a male-heavy bias: water on the island of Sardegna!
just one film by a female director was selected for the official competition (alongside twenty by Marie Powell
male directors). A much-photographed ‘Harvey Weinstein is Innocent’ T-shirt that was sported
by Italian film-maker Luciano Silighini Garagnani, did nothing to help matters…
November subscription offer –

your free book worth £25!
If you love the finer things in life and you’re
looking for Christmas gift inspiration, our latest rdinia
aters of Sa
The blue w
offer is just for you. Take out a subscription for
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page 74 has everything you need to know.) Find us on Instagram at @italia_magazine
Lake images © iStock unless otherwise stated
3 5
Tucked away to the west behind Lake Trasimeno in Umbria is a popular
Maggiore, pretty Orta is the smallest of place to holiday. The area around the
Jane Keightley
the northern lakes and is often deemed lake and its shores is protected, as it
Image ©
the most exclusive. To get the best from is rich in nature, and the landscape around
your visit to this little gem, base yourself in the lake is dotted with historic castles.
exquisite Orta San Giulio, which is packed with
quaint shops and hotels.
4
More tranquil than Garda, but no less
beautiful, and just as popular as a holiday
destination, the banks of Como are also
home to many of the world’s super-wealthy.
The scenery is rugged and towns like Bellagio,
Menaggio and Como are rightly world famous.
(More about Lake Como’s Villa Balbiano on p46.)

THIS MONTH Going up,

News & Views going down...
GOING UP
The Morandi Bridge • There’s great news for Italian food
collapsed in August fans this month as new research
published in the British Journal of
Nutrition has pointed to more
positive effects of
the Mediterranean
diet. The study by
Italian researchers
in Molise focused
on the over-65s and
found that following
the diet can extend
Piano pledges Genoa help a person’s lifespan
Top Italian architect Renzo Piano has offered to help design a new Genoa bridge to replace the and reduce the risk of
Image © iStock
Morandi Bridge, which tragically collapsed on the 14th of August this year. Piano, who designed mortality in elderly people. Please
London’s Shard and the Pompidou Centre in Paris, grew up in Genoa and has also already been pass us the olive oil!
heavily involved in redesigning the city’s Old Port area. He currently lives in Paris but has an • Italy has been voted the world’s
office in Genoa and retains close bonds with the city of his childhood. It is understood that best country in the CN Travel Awards
he has already presented officials with a design for his new bridge. In an interview with the 2018 (something that Italia! readers
Observer, Piano said he felt it was his duty to respond to the disaster in some way, and that have known all along!). The awards,
the design of the new structure will be hugely important: “It must be a place where people can voted by readers
recognise the tragedy in some way, while also providing a great entrance to the city.” of Condé Nast
Traveller magazine,
saw other accolades
Blog of the month for Italy too: Rome

was named best city
for culture and also
Sometimes you have to go away to realise what you have took the runner-up
on your doorstep – and this is exactly why Val, the author spot for best overseas
of My Italian Diaries, began her informative blog about city (pipped to the
Image © iStock
travelling around her home country rather than farther post by Paris), while Vair Spa at
afield. Come with her as she takes a voyage of discovery Puglia’s Borgo Egnazia was runner-up
around Italy – her traveller’s tales are crammed with for best overseas hotel spa.
practical advice and beautiful imagery. Her enthusiasm
for travel around her homeland is infectious and her
itineraries packed with detail. www.myitaliandiaries.com GOING DOWN
• Fragments of tufa rock fell from
the exterior walls of the Passetto
di Borgo (the covered walkway
The Da Vinci Codex from Rome’s Castel San’Angelo to
From the 29th of October until the 20th of January 2019 you’ll the Vatican) in September, seeing
have the rare chance to see Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex Leicester the area temporarily cordoned
at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. This remarkable collection of off by fire teams. Firemen also
handwritten notes and sketches dates from between 1504 and removed some more parts that were
thought to be at risk of falling. The
Image courtesy Bill Gates/© bgC3
1508 and will be shown alongside more of Da Vinci’s remarkable

drawings from this period. The Codex Leicester: Water, Nature’s collapse came hot on the heels of
Microscope has been loaned to the gallery by its owner, Bill other damage to Rome’s ancient
Gates, and thanks to a multimedia tool – the ‘Codescope’ – you structures: the previous week the
will even be able to ‘leaf through’ the work and learn more roof of a church in the Forum caved
about the themes it explores. The exhibition marks the start in, while rocks and earth also fell
Leonardo da Vinci
of celebrations to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Da off the Tarpeian Rock.
Studi sul lume cinereo della Luna
Vinci’s death, in 2019. www.uffizi.it

Christmas markets in Italy
Get in the festive spirit and pick up some unique presents for your loved
ones at the best Christmas markets Italy has to oﬀer in Rome, Florence and
Naples. You can browse the colourful mix of stalls and entertainment, and
enjoy an Italian-style hot chocolate to warm up under the magical fairy lights.
Call our Italy Experts now on 01293 832243 to ﬁnd out how we can help
make your Christmas special, or visit www.citalia.com for inspiration.
ABTA
TA No.V4068
THIS MONTH Italia! recommends
News & Views A deluxe photography week in

Sicily, bespoke Italian catering
and the new Casanova museum
Roast of the town?

While Starbucks is a familiar sight in cities
across the globe, it’s never been something
you’d stumble on during your Italian travels…
Until now. The Seattle-based coffee giant has
just launched its first Italian branch in Piazza
Cordusio in Milan. And it’s no ordinary Starbucks:
this one comes complete with a mezzanine SNAPSHOT IN SICILY
cocktail bar and on-site roastery. While many www.thethinkingtraveller.com
are questioning how the global brand will fare Join award-winning travel and food
in this nation of coffee connoisseurs, the firm insists photographer Øivind Haug and picture
it’s approaching the Italian market in a spirit of “humility and respect”. “This is editor Caroline Metcalfe for a one-week
where Starbucks was born… This city inspired our brand,” claims Starbucks’ chief design officer, Liz storytelling photography workshop
Muller, adding, “I cannot wait to have people come in and see it.” It remains to be seen whether themed around food and travel at The
the coffee-loving Italians will abandon their coffee bar espressos to check it out. Thinking Traveller’s spectacular Sicilian
mansion, Rocca delle Tre Contrade.
PARLIAMO ITALIANO ASKING THE WAY

Essential phrases for getting from place to place
“Dov’è l’albergo / l’ufficio del
turismo / la stazione / la fermata?”
Where is the… hotel / bank /
station / bus stop? PARTY FOOD MADE EASY
www.nifecatering.com
“È lontano?” Is it far from here? Nife Catering produces fabulous food for
“Come si ci arriva?” How do I get there? private and corporate events with the
best seasonal Italian fare, reinventing
”C’è… una banca / un parcheggio / un bancomat… qui vicino?” traditional classic dishes with a stylish
Is there a… bank / car park / cash point… near here? and modern twist. They also provide
professional staff, glassware and crockery
“Questa è la strada per… il centro / l’aeroporto / i negozi / il museo?” so you don’t have to lift a finger.
Is this the right way to the… town centre / airport / shops / museum?
Birthday concert
Image © Iain Reid
Gioacchino Rossini was not just a peerless composer

of opere serie (serious operas) and opere buffe (comic
operas); his enduring influence on the other operatic
composers of the first half of the 19th century as
an accomplished creator of songs and piano music is THE MAN BEHIND THE MYTH
acknowledged to be profound and far-reaching. www.casanovamuseum.com
To celebrate the 150th anniversary of the great In Cannaregio, Venice, a new museum
composer’s death, the Italian Cultural Institute in goes beyond the myth of Casanova,
London will present a free concert at their London telling the true story behind the bright
premises in Belgrave Square. Rossini 150: Piano Music lights of 18th-century Venice with
and Influence will take place on the 13th of November modern multimedia and a stunning
from 7.30-9.00pm. www.iiclondra.esteri.it virtual reality presentation. Adults €13,
To book, visit www.eventbrite.co.uk children €7. Family tickets available.

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My favourite THIS MONTH

hotel in Italy Our Top 5 Events
Le Pleiadi,
Forte dei Marmi
1
November in Italy kicks off with ALL SAINTS’ DAY on the 1st. This
festival represents a religious and national holiday so most shops
TONY BASSETT, TUSCAN SECRETS,
will be closed for the day. It is followed by All Souls’ Day, on the
www.tuscansecrets.com
2nd of November, which is a chance for people to remember deceased
loved ones by taking flowers to graveyards and laying a place at the table
for relatives who have passed away.
1 & 2 November
My favourite
2
hotel is the If you love Italy’s
‘white diamonds’
30-bedroom,
Image © iStock
then November is the
3-star, family perfect time to enjoy a taste
owned and run Le Pleiadi in at the various Italian events
that celebrate the white
Forte dei Marmi in Tuscany. truffle. At the SAN MINIATO
Half the rooms overlook the WHITE TRUFFLE FESTIVAL
wonderful garden and pool, in Tuscany you can buy fresh
truffles and other delicious
whilst rooms at the back regional delicacies. November
is white
on
have a view of the Apuan truffle seas
10-11, 17-18,
mountains. The hotel is only 24-25 November, www.
sanminiatopromozione.it
300 metres from the beach
3
and a 20-minute walk to the In Venice, the FESTA DELLA MADONNA DELLA SALUTE (Festival of
the Madonna of Health) is one of the city’s most beloved festivals,
centre of the town. and it’s a great time to visit. A temporary bridge crosses the Grand
Canal to allow participants in this procession to access the church of the
Madonna della Salute. And, of course, local vendors are on hand with stalls
Family-run favourite selling souvenirs and tasty treats. 21 November
on Tuscany’s coast
4
Music lovers should head for Parma in Emilia-Romagna in November,
as the BAREZZI FESTIVAL takes place this month. Named after
Giuseppe Verdi’s patron (Antonio Barezzi), the event celebrates
all sorts of music, from soul and pop to electronic jazz and trip-hop.
Expect plenty of fantastic performances.
21-24 November, www.barezzifestival.it
5
Get your running shoes ce, run!
Run Floren
on (or simply cheer from
the sidelines) if you’re
in Florence at the end of the
month. The 35th FLORENCE
MARATHON promises to be
as exciting as ever – following
a route that starts and finishes
at the Piazza Duomo and takes
in myriad iconic sights along
the way. 25 November,
The pool at Le Pleiadi
www.firenzemarathon.it

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
VIEWPOINT
The Amalfi Coast’s breathtaking ‘Path of the Gods’ stretches from
the hilltop town of Bomerano to Nocelle, a frazione of Positano
The ‘Path of the Gods’ – Il Sentiero degli

Dei – is an eight-mile walk over some
of the finest views the Amalfi Coast
has to offer. You can walk it either way,
though travelling from east to west (from
Bomerano to Nocelle) will give you the
best views; and, if you head off early
enough in the morning, it will also mean
that the sun will be behind you on your
walk, and that you can look forward to a
well-deserved lunch in Positano.

Clockwise
from top left:
Impromptu
fresh fruit and
vegetable market
at Porto Cesareo;
visitors and locals
enjoying the sea
views at Otranto;
one of the many
antiques and flea
street markets in
lively Lecce; the
typical delicacy
of sea urchins
are found in
Porto Badisco;
travelling by
Appeta in
Otranto; Lecce
back street with
the typical silky
smooth Levantine
stone paving; bike
hire on the beach
at Gallipoli; a
Cinquecento in
Lecce; Sunset over
la Spiaggia della
Purità (Purity
Beach), Gallipoli

48 HOURS IN…
Images by Iain Reid unless otherwise stated
Salento
Sara Scarpa travels to Salento in Puglia and
discovers a timeless land ‘beyond the sea’
P
uglia, the iconic and much loved ‘boot heel’ of Italy, is a
large and varied region that has been a crossroads for several
civilisations and cultures over the centuries. Salento, possibly
the best known area of Puglia, covers the bottom part of the
heel: the peninsula dividing the Ionian and Adriatic seas. (Just
draw an imaginary line from west to east on the map from Taranto to
Brindisi, and Salento covers approximately all the area from this line to
the southernmost point at Santa Maria di Leuca.)
Ancient Salento belonged to Magna Graecia, the part of southern Italy
settled by the Greeks in the 8th century BC, and its original inhabitants
were the Messapians. There is a strong imprint of antiquity in Salento,
but the peninsula has been ruled by so many different waves of conquerors
during the centuries since the Greeks that its history is now complex and
mixed. It boasts incredible culture, offering great archaeological heritage,
beautiful art and craftsmanship, fascinating ancient traditions, stunning
landscapes, dreamlike beaches and excellent gastronomy.
THE FLORENCE OF THE SOUTH

A 20-minute train journey from Brindisi takes you to Lecce, the largest
city in Salento. Locals we had talked to during our trip around the northern
part of Puglia had recommended it highly, proudly referring to it as the
‘Florence of the South’. On reaching the historical centre it was clear as
to why the Leccesi are so passionate about this city.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE, LECCE 1
Via Umberto I, 3 – 73100 Lecce
•
☎ +39 0832 241957
The Basilica di Santa Croce is one of the
finest examples of Baroque architecture in
Salento. The façade has incredibly detailed
stone decorations that are thought to be
connected to the celebration of the victory
in Lepanto (1571). The interior, on the
Latin cross plan, has beautiful paintings
and the magnificent altar of San Francesco
The crystal waters of Porto Badisco
di Paola.
CAVA DI BAUXITE DI OTRANTO 2
Contrada Le Orte, 73028 Otranto
• Parco Naturale Pizzo Baroque detail in Lecce –
Located near Otranto, not far from the just one of many
Punta Palascia lighthouse, is this disused
bauxite quarry discovered in the 1940s
and active until 1976. Although it is not
particularly easy to reach without a car,
this is a natural wonder definitely worth a
visit; the emerald green of the water and of
the intense vegetation contrasting with the
deep red soil is an incredible sight.
PORTO BADISCO 3
73028 Otranto
•
Located only a few kilometres south of
Otranto, this secluded bay is perfect for
snorkelling. According to Virgil, it was the
place Aeneas first landed after his escape
from Troy. On your way to the beach I
would recommend stopping for a quick,
casual lunch at Bar Alimentari Tabacchi “Da
DON’T MISS During the day, the city’s stone and shaping the scene at many of
Carlo”. Da Carlo is a shop and a bar – you LE FRISELLE (or is a striking yellow that turns into its bars, restaurants and other
can choose fresh food from the counter FRISE), Typical an incredible pink after sunset. hangouts. It also has its boutiques,
and enjoy it outdoors. While we were there produce of Seeing Lecce’s wonderful sandstone artisan makers, antique, flower, food
a father and son were busy cleaning fresh Salento, friselle palaces and structures throw off the and flea markets, large bookshops
are twice-baked most warming glow as the sun sets and art galleries. The city certainly
sea urchins, a typical delicacy that is very
ring-shaped
popular in this area.
hardened breads
in the evening, we couldn’t wait to provides plenty to see and do.
SAIL FROM PORTO CESAREO 4 •
Choose one of the many organised boat
that are soaked
in cold water
get immersed in this city.
Strolling through the cobbled
The Baroque churches, palaces
and balconies are adorned with
tours in Porto Cesareo. You will be able for less than a streets you’ll notice how smooth decoration, so make sure you look
to visit some of the most beautiful coves, minute, then the Levantine stone pavement is, up! Saints, cherubs, human and
pressed slightly gleaming and silky like it had just animal figures, heads and gargoyles
beaches and islands of the Ionian coast,
and drizzled
such as Porto Selvaggio, Santa Caterina been meticulously polished. With are in abundance. Everywhere you
with extra-
and Punta Prosciutto. If you fancy it virgin olive oil
its monumental entrances, grand look there is some odd creature
you could even snorkel in an underwater and topped with centro storico, Piazza Sant’Oronzo, or other staring back at you. The
archaeological site. diced tomatoes, impressive Roman amphitheatre and Basilica di Santa Croce, with its
CYCLE FROM GALLIPOLI TO BAIA VERDE 5
Along the route, stop at one of the many
• salt, pepper and
oregano. They
majestic Baroque churches on every
corner, what really stands out is how
lavishly decorated façade, represents
the apex of this Baroque decoration
are usually made completely different Lecce is from – a mind-blowing explosion of
beaches to sunbathe and enjoy the
with wholegrain
wonderful landscape. The coastline of Punta barley and
the small coastal towns and inland stone figures. At the centre of this
Pizzo, just south of Baia Verde, is one of durum flour. villages of Puglia. Yet although allegorical feast stands the famous
our favourite spots in Puglia, offering a Legend has it Lecce is large and there is so much Romanesque rose window with its
peaceful beach surrounded by nature. that the Trojan to see and take in, the city does not ring of laurel leaves and berries.
hero Aeneas feel ostentatious and the atmosphere We walked to the elegant
CYCLE FROM PORTO CESAREO TOWARDS
•
brought them is relaxed. Piazza del Duomo at the junction
TORRE LAPILLO 6 over to Italy.
The beaches along this stretch of coast are of Via Giuseppe Libertini and Via
just incredible. Our favourite spot, Tabù, CREATIVE CITY LIFE Vittorio Emanuele II. Enclosed on
only 5km from the centre of Porto Cesareo, Lecce is also a vibrant university the other three sides, the piazza is
is a fantastic sandy beach with dunes and city with a young generation completely surrounded by Baroque
clear blue water. injecting vitality into its streets buildings: the Cathedral, Bishop’s

WHERE TO EAT
OSTERIA DEL VICO 7 •
Via Vico Mercato, 1 – 73014 Gallipoli
☎ +39 0833 266186
Friendly Federico and his mother run this
lovely restaurant in the centre of Gallipoli.
The menu offers traditional local dishes
with a modern twist. Try the matriciana
di pesce spada and the parmigiana di
frutti di mare. If you opt for the menu
degustazionale dello chef you will be able to
Marco Epicochi’s traditional
try a wide selection of delicious dishes.
The ornate architecture of Lecce papier-mâché art
●
€●€
OSTERIA DA ANGIULINO 8 •
Via Principi di Savoia, 24 – 73100 Lecce
☎ +39 0832 245146
This unpretentious osteria in the heart of
Lecce offers lovely simple dishes and is full
of locals. It is always incredibly busy so you
must book in advance.
●
€
VICO DEL GUSTO 9 •

Via dei Fieschi, 14 – 73100 Lecce
☎ +39 0832 246931
www.ilvicodelgusto.it
This elegant restaurant in the heart of
Lecce near the Basilica di Santa Croce offers
exquisite dishes. I recommend the tartara
di tonno con mousse di sedano (tuna tartare
Porta Napoli, Lecce Amphitheatre at Lecce with celery mousse) and the pannacotta con
zafferano (pannacotta with saffron).
DON’T MISS ●
€●€●
€
Palace, Seminary and the soaring the expression of the artist. Marco
bell tower. On the left side of learnt this art by working alongside PASTICCIOTTI Con
the square you will find Marco his grandfather and he still uses crema, pistacchio,
Epicochi’s Laboratorio della Cartapesta traditional methods. marmellata
(papier-mâché workshop), www. di ciliegie o
cartapesta-lecce.it. Papier-mâché MORE TO EXPLORE mandorle – local
pastries filled
has been famous in Lecce since the Not only should Lecce itself be
with cream,
17th century and the importance of the must-see during your stay in pistachios, black
this ancient art to the city is so great Puglia, it is also the perfect starting cherry jam or
there is a museum dedicated to it in point to reach many of the heavenly almond. The best
we had were CLASSE 80 10•
Lecce’s stone has a striking yellow glow that from Vecchio
Ingrosso, a small
Via Guglielmotto d’Otranto, 35
73028 Otranto
turns into an incredible pink after sunset

bar/bakery in
☎ +39 0836 801730
Gallipoli, located
Located near the castle, this restaurant
on the Riviera
Cristoforo
managed by friendly Giuseppe, Oronzo,
the Charles V castle. Known as the beaches that are scattered along Colombo. Davide and Alberto offers a great selection
‘poor man’s marble’, take home a the coastline. Although there is a of fresh fish from Salento and excellent
local wines for you to enjoy after your
piece of cartapesta art or try a class to well-established, inexpensive and
sightseeing exploits.
learn more about this noble craft. reliable bus service (Salento in
●
€●€●
€
When we went to Marco Bus) that interlinks many of the
Epicochi’s workshop, he was
intently working on restoring an
beach and coastal destinations, I
would recommend hiring a car as
LE DUE SORELLE 11 •
Piazza Salvo D’Acquisto
ancient religious piece. His small the journeys by coach can become ➤ KEY TO 73026 Torre Dell’Orso, Melendugno
studio is bursting at the seams with crowded. We stayed in Lecce for five RESTAURANT PRICES ☎ +39 393 866 7657
(full meal per This small, family-run friggitoria located in
his art; statues representing holy nights in one of the excellent rooms
person, not the main square near the stunning beach.
subjects, professions and peasants at Le Bifore Charming House and including wine) It offers delicious dishes created with fresh
are all on display. The detail of used that as a base before moving to ●€ Up to €25 local produce (all the fish is bought daily
his craft is fascinating, with the Gallipoli for a couple of nights and ●€●€ €26-€50
from the nearby fishmonger).
garments seeming to flow, such is finally on to Porto Cesareo. ●€●€●€ More than €50
●
€

St Peter’s Church, Otranto The wedding driver in Otranto Pescoluse: the famous ‘Maldives’ of Salento
Not far from Punta Palascia

lighthouse is a natural wonder
definitely worth a visit: the
emerald green of the water
and the intense vegetation
contrasting with the deep red
soil is an incredible sight
Dancing tarantella in Taranto Ceramic souvenirs The Two Sisters

in Otranto

WHERE TO STAY
9
8 1 12 LE BIFORE CHARMING HOUSE, LECCE 12
Vicolo Fieschi, 73100 Lecce
•
6 ☎ +39 0832 183 0991
www.lebiforelecce.it
4 11 Located in the heart of Lecce, this B&B has
13 an elegant interior and luxurious suites.
1015 Breakfast is fantastic: homemade cakes and
16 pasticciotti. We were so lucky to stay in the
2 junior suite Sarah, a spacious room with a
14 7 3 living area and mezzanine.
Map data © 2018 Google
ACQUAMARINA B&B 13 •
Via Silvio Pellico, 18 – 73010 Porto Cesareo
The beaches and translucent sea port to the eastern shores of the DON’T MISS
that are a short distance from Lecce Adriatic Sea. During our visit an ☎ +39 333 121 0636
LA TARANTELLA www.bedacquamarina.com
really are special. An example of extravagant wedding was taking In the piazze Excellent B&B run by a friendly family
these is the fabulous beach of Torre place in the Castello Aragonese, of Apulia there right in the centre of Porto Cesareo, with
dell’Orso (located in the Marina the impressive 15th-century fortress are often fantastic views over the harbour. Two big
di Melendugno, in the province of that today hosts exhibitions and opportunities terraces, a very nice restaurant and clean,
Lecce) which is only about half an cultural events. The entrance was to enjoy a modern bedrooms will make your stay here
hour’s drive from Lecce. This is a adorned with flowers and outside performance
very enjoyable.
of tarantella,
thin stretch of white sand (around
1km) with crystalline blue water,
the chauffeur was waiting in his
smart car alongside many locals
particularly
in summer.
RELAIS CORTE PALMIERI 14 •
Corte Palmieri, 3 – 73014 Gallipoli
particularly transparent thanks to who were eagerly waiting for the The tarantella ☎ +39 0833 326 5318
currents of the Canale d’Otranto. It newlyweds to appear. is a couples www.relaiscortepalmieri.it
is surrounded by calcareous rocks This old town is small but folk dance
This historic house in the heart of the old
full of interesting caves and has a beautiful, boasting a labyrinth of characterised
town centre dates back to the 18th century.
by quick steps
lush pine forest as its backdrop. narrow streets, a dazzling 11th- and flirtatious
It has elegant interiors and beautiful
This lovely bay is known for century cathedral with magnificent movements, terraces with citrus trees and prickly pears
being home to the famous twin rock mosaic floors and the tiny frescoed usually where you can enjoy a breakfast buffet or
stacks called the Due Sorelle, the Two church of San Pietro, which is one accompanied by a drink.
Sisters. Also nearby in Roca Vecchia,
you will find the picturesque Grotta
of the best examples of Byzantine
buildings in Puglia. Beyond
tambourines.
Its origin is
RELAIS VALLE DELL’IDRO 15 •
Via Giovanni Grasso, 4 – 73028, Otranto
connected with
della Poesia (the Cave of Poetry) – the old town there are bars and ☎ +39 0836 804427
tarantism, a
form of hysteria www.otrantohotel.com
The old town of Otranto is small but associated with

the bite of
4-star hotel on a hill 1km from the centre
of Otranto and 8km from Porto Badisco.
beautiful, with a labyrinth of narrow streets the tarantula Superb views over Otranto, elegant rooms
spider – the with modern comforts, a roof garden with
frenzied dancing solarium and jacuzzi, and a wellness centre.
•
is supposed to
one of the most beautiful natural restaurants overlooking the curved have curative TENUTA CENTOPORTE 16
pools in the world and very popular bay, providing some lovely alfresco effects for bite Via Vecchia Otranto Giurdignano,
for diving. According to an ancient dining options. victims. Località Montibianchi, Otranto
legend this is the location where a Just over an hour’s drive from ☎ +39 0836 801886
beautiful princess used to bathe, and Lecce, towards the southern end of www.tenutacentoporte.it
it has inspired many a poem. the region, you will find the Marina If you can drive and do not mind not
di Pescoluse. It is in this area on being in the centre of town, this is the
ANCIENT OTRANTO the Ionian coast, 10km from Santa ideal setting for a relaxing luxury holiday.
Immersed in the countryside between
Around 30 miles southeast of Lecce Maria di Leuca, between Torre Vado
Otranto and Giurdignano, the Tenuta has
is Otranto, a very ancient town of and Torre Pali, that the famous a beach club with VIP loungers and straw
Greek origin. In Roman times it Maldives of Salento are located. The umbrellas where you can enjoy relaxing
was important for being the nearest coastline is low and sandy and the days in perfect privacy.

sea appears to increase in vibrancy the Spiaggia della Purità and

the closer you get to Pescoluse. the pretty harbour.
Just over half an hour’s drive Our next stop was to nearby
south west from Lecce you will Porto Cesareo, still on the Ionian
reach Gallipoli, which is a city of coast, slightly to the north. This is
two parts. After passing through the a tranquil village with a beautiful
modern part of the city, which lacks port and a fish market. A long
any real ambience, we finally reached stretch of beach (17km) faces an
the old centre. Old and new stand archipelago of islands that forms a
face to face, with the castle standing protected bay. Porto Cesareo belongs
right in front of a huge, anonymous to the Protected Marine Area and
modern building. Crossing the to the Regional Nature Reserve
ancient bridge connecting new to Palude del Conte e Duna Costiera,
old, the feel of the place completely one of the largest in Italy. With its
changes. This old city is well shallow, calm and translucent sea
preserved, and although the original this is definitely one of our favourite
city design was aimed at confusing beaches in Puglia.
and delaying invaders, you can now We cycled from the centre of the
safely navigate the maze-like streets, village to Torre Chianca and Torre
cobbled alleys and pretty courtyards. Lapillo. These stone watchtowers
were built in the 16th century
SCENES OF LOCAL LIFE to protect the coast from Saracen
Gallipoli offers typical southern attacks. If you are fitter than us and
Italian scenes, with clothes hanging can resist stopping on the way to
Fishing boats line the harbour at Gallipoli
outside windows and across narrow gorge on focaccia, you can probably
streets, elderly men making fish nets venture all the way to Punta
and weaving crab pots and animated Prosciutto (Ham Point), a dreamlike
The Baroque splendour of Gallipoli‘s women who are either arguing or beach with Caribbean-style water –
Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata merely chatting intently – it’s hard and a rather unusual name!
to tell! Many of the houses have
their doors open through which you GETTING THERE
catch a glimpse of local life – TV
on, kids doing homework and the ➤ BY PLANE
Brindisi airport has seasonal flights to
aroma of delicious meals wafting Heathrow (BA) and Gatwick (easyJet),
out into the streets. and year-round connections with
The nightlife is lively with Stansted and Manchester (Ryanair).
numerous bars and restaurants, and ➤ BY TRAIN
street stalls selling natural sponges There is a railway mainline that runs
are open late into the night. Dotted from Milan to Bologna to Rimini, and
around the centre are some beautiful then all the way down Italy’s Adriatic
churches and you must not miss the coast as far as Lecce.
cathedral. If you’d rather cycle than ➤ BY ROAD
a walk around the city, there are Driving all the way to Salento would be
an adventure in itself, but hiring a car
lots of hire shops along the sea walls, while you are there is advised.
where you can also enjoy views over
Typical ceramics on sale The beach at Porto Cesareo

at Porto Cesareo is part of a nature reserve

FA S T C U LT U R E
Up on the Roof
The building is the

Lingotto, the legendary
Fiat automobile factory,
designed by Giacomo
Mattè Trucco in 1916

FA S T C U LT U R E
I
n a little modernist fantasy of a penthouse,
atop a huge commercial building in
southern Turin, you’ll find an art museum
like no other. It’s called the Pinacoteca
Giovanni e Marella Agnelli, and the
penthouse is known as the Scrigno – “jewel box”
or “treasure chest”. The collection is small – just
25 pieces – but the quality is astonishing. Among
the paintings are six superb views of Venice by
Canaletto, masterpieces by Giambattista Tiepolo,
Manet, Renoir and Matisse, and even two pictures
by Picasso. Modigliani’s famous Reclining Nude
Renzo Piano’s Bubble conference centre
is there as well, along with a couple of statues on top of the Lingotto building
by Canova. My first visit there was just before
Christmas last winter.
I rode the escalator from the building’s The Agnelli Pinacoteca, an art
ground-floor entrance to the first floor, walked museum like no other
down a wide corridor lined with shops, found
a rather obscure side passage leading to a small
lift, and pushed the button for the top floor.
When the door opened at the Scrigno, I paid €10
for entry to the Pinacoteca; and then, without
taking even a passing glance at the artworks,
walked out of the penthouse onto the roof.
I meant no disrespect to Tiepolo, Matisse, et
al., of course; but I had come to see first-hand
another extraordinary work of art, or at least one
spectacular part of it. Because the entire building
was, when it was first made, the embodiment
of everything the Futurist artists of the time
worshipped: modern industrial might, assembly-
line production, power, and speed. In fact, having
left the jewel box, I was now standing on a roof-
top automobile race-track, an oval test course over
a kilometre long. There, I ignored the lingering
winter snow on the road surface and imagined
newly-minted automobiles accelerating through
the thrilling, elegantly banked curves at the
corners of the track.
The building is the Lingotto, the legendary
Fiat automobile factory, designed to allow raw Don’t lean over the edge!
materials to enter the structure at the ground
floor and emerge as completed vehicles on the
roof, ready for a spin around the track. Designed
by the engineer Giacomo Mattè Trucco in 1916,
the factory produced 80 different car models from
1923 to 1982, including such automotive icons as
the Fiat 500A, the Topolino. The last car to emerge
onto the roof was a Lancia Delta.
Created a few years before the Fascist takeover
of the Kingdom of Italy, the Lingotto survived
Mussolini, World War II (during which it was
bombed by the RAF and the USAAF several
times), and the abolition of the Italian monarchy.
It lasted through the post-war economic recovery,
the massive migration of workers from the south
to northern industries like Fiat, the creation of
huge new urban neighbourhoods to house them,
labour unrest, riots, government scandals, and
terrorism from groups like the Red Brigades. By
the early 1980s, though, most of Fiat’s automobile

production had long been moved to Turin’s
Images © Patricia Gartman
Mirafiori plant, and the Lingotto’s assembly

lines were officially closed. But the grand old
structure could not be allowed to become derelict,
of course, and an international debate on possible
uses for the factory began.
It was called the Venti Progetti, because twenty
famous architectural studios participated in
the discussion. Predictably, no single project
was chosen, so in 1985 Fiat commissioned the
Genovese architect Renzo Piano to convert the
Lingotto to a modern, multi-use urban facility.
Banked turns of the Lingotto
building’s test track
It was Piano who crowned the roof with the
Scrigno, as well as a glass-globe conference centre
called “The Bubble”. (The Scrigno is topped with
British readers might recognise this from the film The Italian Job a wide, flat, high-tech sunshade, which makes
the gallery, silhouetted against the sky, look a bit
like the Starship Enterprise.) Inside the Lingotto,
where for six decades an army of up to 12,000
workers tended the assembly lines, there is now a
modern shopping mall, a couple of hotels, a 2000-
seat music auditorium, an indoor sports arena, an
exhibition hall, offices, and a tropical garden.
While I was musing on the absorbing story
of the Lingotto’s life, my wife joined me on the
roof to take some photos. Soon the wind began
to blow the snowdrifts apart, and we scurried
back into the Scrigno to bask in the warmth of the
brilliant paintings in the gallery. The marvellous
richness of the collection is explained by the
fact that it represents the cream of the artworks
collected by Giovanni Agnelli and his wife
Marella. Giovanni, the grandson and namesake of
Fiat’s founder, and himself a long-time chairman
of the company, was the richest man in Italy when
he died in 2002. He and Marella were both fashion
icons, and noted for their taste in art.
This way for the lift to the top The shopping centre
And then, after admiring the masterpieces,
we did what almost everyone visiting the Lingotto
nowadays does: we went shopping. The shops were
Lobby of the NH Hotel gaily decorated for the holidays, and I was happy
to see that the great building was still full of life.
But best of all, I thought, there are the
memories. Piano wisely let the structural bones
of the grand old edifice remain; and, of course,
he left the race track on the roof, although some
safety-minded spoilsport has studded the surface
with yellow bollards and speed bumps. I don’t
know who they are intended to control, unless,
when all the visitors have left the Scrigno, and
there’s no one else around, the ghosts of Topolinos
past have been racing recklessly in the twilight.
ABOUT THE WRITER

JOE GARTMAN writes about travel,
history and culture, and divides
his time between the southwest
US and Europe. Learn more at
www.joegartman.com

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Artists Andrea Brugi and

Samina Langholz reveal
how a surprise romance
changed their lives
WORKING
for ever and led to the
creation of a successful
woodcraft business born out
of their rustic lifestyle in
WITH WOOD
rural southern Tuscany
A Tuscan love story
T
he unspoilt views of the olive and it was a chance meeting while she was
groves surrounding the beautiful on holiday in Italy in 2004 that brought the
Tuscan village of Montemerano couple together. “I was on a short holiday
are a constant source of visiting a friend. I met Andrea after 18 hours
inspiration to wood artists and my short stay turned into a more than
Andrea Brugi and Samina Langholz. To three-week vacation. Andrea didn’t speak a
them, a gnarled piece of wood is a thing word of Danish or English and I didn’t know
of beauty that they will transform into a one single word in Italian,” she laughs.
Samina and Andrea in
unique and desirable hand-made and signed Was it love at first sight? “I think very
the workshop at their
17th-century Tuscan home
object to grace any home. close to… Definitely love at second sight!”
Born in Montemerano, Andrea has lived
all his life in the picturesque mountain THE SIMPLE THINGS OF LIFE
village. Although he trained as a land Growing up in an olive grove, surrounded by
surveyor, he has always worked with nature and the simple things of life in a village
his hands, whether it be rebuilding of artisans, working with wood was second
and restoring the village’s old houses nature to Andrea. “I guess my real passion
or creating items out of wood as a for wood started when I was helping my dad.
hobby. Samina grew up in Denmark, He was an electrician and was always helping
someone who needed a hand in our village.
I fell in love with the old houses, how they
were constructed, and all the little quirks that
were made or repaired over the years. Today
we live in one of those 17th-century houses.
It was built in 1678 and we have renovated
every square metre with our bare hands.”
person needs in their home: a piece you
Images by Ditte Isager

enjoy using and that gets more beautiful
the more you use it. Without doubt, each
finished item has its own distinctive character.
As you are working with natural wood you
will never achieve a polished, perfect result.
Every piece is unique in its own way. Two
chopping boards of the same size and shape
will never be exactly the same.
“This unique expression is in stark contrast
to that achieved by advanced technology
and mass production, which automatically
generates perfect, identical products. And
we believe this is our good fortune. The
proliferation of new technology has created
When they first met Andrea was making a new need in people: an obsession for the
chopping boards purely as a hobby; whenever opposite; a strong desire for something
he found a beautiful piece of wood that imperfect, warm and human – something that
inspired him he would create a board and use will add that final, personal touch to their
it as a gift. Samina treasures the first chopping modern home. In a way, the imperfect has
board Andrea made for her when he visited her become the perfect and there is now a new
in Denmark for the first time after they met: pursuit for true craftsmanship.”
“That piece will always represent something Wood is a huge part of their life, says
special to me,” she says. Samina: “It has become our partner in our
It was while they were restoring some life.” Olive is obviously close to Andrea’s
antique furniture over Easter 2005 for their heart, with his life-long connection, but he
future home that they realised how well they also works with oak, chestnut and poplar.
worked together. “When we met we never Each has its own characteristics and qualities,
made a conscious decision to go into business,” but, he says, “I only do what the wood tells
explains Samina. “As we started restoring me to do. I never force a design on the wood.
we just slowly got to know each other. We It is the wood that decides the shapes and
learned that what we do together is simply the design; I just listen to it. Each piece
special. We never made a business plan; we has to be treated with respect.”
are still learning every day. It’s never easy,
and it’s never boring.” DESIGN AND DRAWING
They are very much free spirits in Samina always had a passion for design
the approach to their craft. Neither has a and drawing, but was working as a TV
background in design but their passion and producer when she took her life-changing
the challenges a piece of wood brings are trip. “I guess I needed a short break in my
reflected in the one-off, hand-made and signed life,” she explains. “I definitely was not
pieces, be they rustic egg cups or a dining looking for a man, and definitely never
table carved from a 200-year-old Tuscan oak thought I was going to marry an Italian!
door. Samina has also created a décor line I guess they are right when they say, it
from Andrea’s wood remnants, turning them happens when you are least expecting it…
into stars, trees, hanging mobiles and the “I used to be the old-fashioned girl in
like, so nothing is ever wasted. Copenhagen, on my bike, enjoying the flea
Situated in the Maremma area of southern markets, collecting antiques and just loving
Tuscany, approximately 300 metres above my home with crystal wine glasses, colourful
sea level, and exactly placed between the oil paintings and oriental rugs from floor to
Mediterranean Sea and the Mont Amiata ceiling. Then we met, in Andrea’s beautiful
mountains, Montemerano has the perfect medieval village, and this genuine, authentic
Left to right,
climate for the 400- to 1,000-year-old olive craft slowly took us over. The life here is very from main image:
trees that grow all over its surrounding simple. And it has always been that way.” Samina and Andrea
slopes and valleys. They relish their simple life – quiet in their workshop;
Here Andrea and Samina collect wood Sundays relaxing working together in the a decorative slice
from the ancient groves and craft it in their workshop, long walks looking for wild of tree trunk with
studio using traditional methods to create asparagus in April, porcini mushrooms a ‘wedge’ handle
makes a beautiful
very desirable contemporary pieces. “We like in October and November, for the pasta cheese board; the
to keep things simple; we don’t like to overdo dishes they love to cook with lots of seasonal couple out collecting
an idea,” says Samina. “Andrea has always vegetables and their own, handpicked virgin wood for their
felt that our work should be something every olive oil. “Andrea is a very good cook, but projects

like many men he mostly cooks when we

have friends over,” says Samina. “I’m more
the everyday cook, covering a good risotto, a
simple pasta dish…”
VINTAGE TREASURES
In the hot summer months they escape with
their six-year-old daughter, Gloria, to a little
wooden house in Denmark, where they spend
every Saturday at a local flea market selling
the vintage treasures they have collected
during the Tuscan winter.
Their love of flea markets and antiques is
reflected in their home – “It is hard to keep
it simple!” – a mix of Danish classics, oil
paintings, many, many lamps, oriental rugs
and, of course, their own designs, including
the first dining table they made together
from two huge planks of solid poplar on a
construction of vintage iron scaffolding.
They love to travel and are inspired by art,
fabrics, ceramics and old tools that they might
come across. (“Everything that is handmade
is interesting, isn’t it?” says Samina.) But
the husband and wife team would never live
anywhere else. “Living in a village with 350
people might seem boring or uninspiring,
but for Andrea it is all about the nature, the
smells, the past, the stories that inspire him.
He is a product of his village. He wouldn’t
work as he does, think as he does, or be who
he is if he had been born anywhere else.”
They now have a worldwide following,
have collaborated with leading furniture
designers and have exhibited at Milan’s
prestigious Salone del Mobile interiors show

(which unfortunately they missed this year). Main image: “We keep
The Gardens
and Towns
But on their return from this summer in the bark on these
Denmark they started on a project designing small, rustic egg cups
to bring a natural,
and decorating a new restaurant in Rome. personal touch to
of Tuscany
the breakfast table.”
PASSION FOR THE CRAFT Clockwise from top
Recently they spent a year working on an left: Two leather
inspiring book, published this spring, in straps and a driftwood
which they share their passion for the craft branch make a stylish
alternative clothing
and show readers how they too can make
rail; copper or brass
beautiful wood objects for the home from nails are hammered
twenty simple carpentry projects. into place on the
Included are an egg cup made from a clothes rail leather
reclaimed beam and broom handle and a straps; Samina and
chopping board featuring a hand-carved Andrea selecting wood
“butterfly”, an old trick for stabilising a from the surrounding
Montemerano hills
crack. With easy step-by-step instructions,
and photographed on location in Tuscany, the
projects are suitable for all levels of expertise –
even the complete beginner!
What advice would Samina give to a
Woodworking –
Traditional Craft Tour
Tourbegins
begins19th
19thMay
May2019
2019
novice embarking on one of the designs for Modern Living
is written by Tuscan
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thegardens
gardensand
andtowns
townsofof Tuscany,
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Samina Langholz
answer? I think our first advice would be and Andrea Brugi, and
andthe theBoboli
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Lucca,Pistoia,
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to get the techniques right. Perhaps practise photographs and
andthe
theVilla
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GardensatatMarlia.
Marlia.
a couple of times before you start with the by Ditte Isager,
perfect piece of wood, and then follow your published by Jacqui
heart. There is no such thing as a perfect Small at £20.00,
result. When you are happy with your work available from www.
amazon.co.uk. Their
it is perfect. We are making a big effort with
handmade and
this book to explain how important it is to signed pieces are
us to embrace the non-perfect.” available worldwide
Whether you are inspired to reach for the through Goop,
carpentry tools or not, the book is a reminder Eataly, and their
of the beauty of the natural world – and the online shop https:// Guests
Guestswill
willstay
stayatatthe
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MAKING
TRACKS
Down by the
lakeside at Colico
Lecco, a town made

famous by a novel
Travelling through Mandello del Lario

the mountains
Moving on up the lake

Images by Rachael Martin
Lierna, en route
Ice cream in Colico for Varenna

Two decades ago Rachael Martin arrived in Italy, exploring the country by rail
and dreaming of rooms with a view. Twenty years, one Italian husband and two
kids later, she still has the memories of those first voyages of discovery…
Part Three – To Lake Como Spagna against a backdrop of the mountains of the
Valtellina and stop at Piona, famous for its abbey
that’s home to Cistercian monks.
I start off in Lecco, at the southern tip Lake Como has many moods; moods that change
of Lake Como’s eastern leg, the part with the weather, moods that convey certain sadness;
of the lake that is known as both Lake and colours that change accordingly. Virgil called it
Lecco and Lake Lario. The setting is “our greatest lake”. Byron, Shelley, Rossini, Stendhal
spectacular, a whole town framed by the and others all visited and loved it. Today it’s windy,
dolomitic Grigne mountain range with slightly cloudy, but when the sun’s out it’s hot. A
Colico station its two peaks – Grignone, or Grigna settentrionale, and brown, utterly uninspiring apartment block is a
Grignetta, or Grigna meridionale – and most distinctively reminder that Lake Como is more than the sum of its
by Mount Resegone, with its saw-like profile that celebrities, desirable holidays and picture-postcard
towers over the town. blue skies. Varenna station may wear its very best, yet
Lecco is a town that offers many opportunities for forgotten stations such as Dervio are covered in graffiti.
climbing and its Lecco Spiders mountaineering group The lakeside square in Colico is wide, open and
is internationally renowned. It’s also the setting for windy, with a small marina. “There aren’t many tourists
Alessandro Manzoni’s The Betrothed, the famous 19th- this year,” I’m told at the gelateria. “Fewer than last
century novel describing the love story of Renzo and year. But then I suppose there isn’t much here. It’s not
Lucia, and compulsory high-school reading for many as if there’s a golf course.” No, it’s just as it is, and it’s
an Italian teenager. beautiful – although that doesn’t help the local people.
I take the regional train to Sondrio, although I’ll A table of men are whiling away their afternoon behind
be getting off at Colico. The train is old and rather me over coffee and possibly Braulio, the local digestif.
noisy and I have to pull the window down to take I order a coppa di gelato with a lakeside view and syrupy
photos. We’re travelling above the lake, past Abbadia Amarena cherries on top.
Lariana (literally, the Abbey of Lake Lario), named The train going home is one of the fast ones, with
after its Benedictine abbey. The abbey has gone now just a few stops and then straight on to Milan. A young
Across the carriage are two girls and a boy; they are working
out what they’ve spent and who owes what to whom. They are
in their early twenties, the age I was when I first came to Italy.
but there’s a long, white, stony beach that attracts woman sits opposite me. “Sorry if I’ve put my feet up.
plenty of holidaymakers and locals out for the day. My legs are killing me. I’ve got veins already, and I’m
On we go along the mountainside, into tunnels and only twenty eight. I’m a waitress.” She tells me she’s
out of tunnels, rejoining the views of the lake below; a from a small village above Morbegno, in the Valtellina,
view of cypresses, red-roofed houses, church bell towers, that she has moved to Switzerland and is hoping for a
clusters of yellow and ochre-coloured buildings and better future, “although I’m already twenty eight.”
villas with fine gardens. We pass stations with their Across the carriage from us are two girls with long
station houses, their doorways and windows emphasised dark hair and a boy with a head of peroxide blonde; they
in a darker shade of ochre brick, and the familiar blue are working out what they’ve spent and who owes what
station signs with their white writing. to whom. I would say they are in their early twenties,
There’s Mandello del Lario, home to Moto Guzzi the age I was when I first came to Italy. In those days I’d
since 1921. Then Olcio, Lierna, Fiumelatte, Varenna and get the train up the lake and sit and eat ice creams
its tourists – or rather Varenna-Esino Perledo as the train in cafés. I could barely speak any Italian – none when
station is actually slightly above Varenna in the village I first arrived. I hadn’t yet learned this language that
of Perledo; and Esino comes from Esino Lario, which lies attracted me with its sounds and gestures, or developed
A railway journey above in the Northern Grigna Regional Park. my own identity within it.
along the shores of A woman in colourful African dress and carrying We travel back towards Lecco, past people on
Lake Como brings
back memories of early
two huge bags gets off the train at Bellano and goes beaches under umbrellas. We stop once more at Varenna,
days in Italy enjoying to wait at a bus stop. A girl on the train continues to where Japanese ladies with sun-protective headwear
ice creams and views read the book on her knee. A few people get on with join us, along with tourists with suitcases, while other
and the sound of a
language not yet rucksacks and walking sticks, along with a mother tourists get off and make their way towards hotels, guest
understood. and her children. We move onto the plain of Pian di houses, stereotypes and their own dreams.

PA S T I TA L I A !

PIAZZA DELLA
SIGNORIA
Florence’s Piazza della Signoria is named after its
palazzo, which is now also known as the Palazzo Vecchio
T he Duomo may be the more famous Florence landmark,

but the Piazza della Signoria has at least as much
historical importance to the city. The Signoria was the
government of Florence at the dawn of the Renaissance, and
this was their seat; large and imposing, and built to withstand
military assault. Here the nine men of the Signoria would live
together for the two months of their tenure, emerging only
to put their proposals to the throng gathered in the square.
Here too, Cosimo de’ Medici was once imprisoned, able only to
watch the plebiscite from the window of his cell.

The Alta Acqua

bookshop has a
seat where you
can read as the
canal water laps
into the shop

THE QUIET
SESTIERE
Adrian Mourby explores the tranquil backwaters
of Venice in the eastern sestiere of Castello
I
t’s the sestiere that Venetians call truly Venetian. But Castello is also full of beautiful churches,
The neighbourhood of Castello consists of the palazzi and scuole. Venice’s mighty Arsenale rises like
same narrow lanes, broad campi and monumental a gigantic Gothic fortress at its eastern end, where
churches as the other five sestieri, but it lacks it’s guarded by the island of San Pietro di Castello
the crowds and the tourist-trap trattorias. In (from which the sestiere takes its name). Two of the most
Castello it’s rare to find a waiter standing in the street imposing churches in the whole of Venice, San Francesco Clockwise from far
left: The sestiere of
urging you inside. You’re more likely to find that your della Vigna and the Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo,
Castello is full of
chosen restaurant – modest, despite its excellent reviews are just half a kilometre apart in the northern corner quiet nooks where
– is located next to the local chemist or a shop selling of the sestiere. you will rarely see
washing-machine parts. another tourist;
Castello exerts a slow charm but it’s probably the A FAVOURITE WALK Zanipolo, Venice’s
easiest sestiere in which to feel at home. Teenagers come I have a favourite walk every time I visit. It’s good to most beautiful
charging out of the Liceo Scientifico on Fondamenta di check that not too much has changed in this, the largest church;
the incomplete
Santa Giustina, the cloisters of Chiesa San Lorenzo have of Venice’s sestieri. I start on Riva degli Schiavoni, Chiesa di San
been turned into the supermarket and the Alta Acqua outside Santa Maria della Pietà. This tall, mid-18th- Lorenzo; San
bookshop has steps made out of old magazines and a seat century church was built on the site of the Santa Maria Zaccaria, gateway
where you can read as the canal water laps into the shop. della Pietà for which Vivaldi composed so much music. to Castello
Images by Kate Tadman-Mourby
Not surprisingly, daily performances of his Four

Seasons are advertised in the portico.
Next door is the Metropole Hotel, whose bar
contains columns from the original orphanage where
Vivaldi once taught violin. Unwanted girl babies
were abandoned in a niche cut into the side wall of
what is now the hotel.

This page, below and

WHAT TO SEE AND DO bottom: Canaletto’s
Turning left towards the Arsenale, the broad
view of the entrance Schiavoni quayside stretches into the distance, broken
QUERINI STAMPALIA
to the Arsenal – up only by marble bridges over small canals and the
Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5252
little has changed tables and chairs of cafés that exploit the wonderful view
☎ +39 041 271 1411 since he painted this
www.querinistampalia.org across to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore. In Vivaldi’s
scene in 1732; the time this quayside was full of traders from all over the
After the Querini family died out in 1868 Bucintoro, the Doges’
their palazzo – and all its art works – was transport, on display
Venetian empire. Now it is full of vaporetto stops and
turned into a museum featuring paintings in the Museo Storico stalls selling carnival masks, but plaques on the wall of
by Bellini, Tieplo and the Longhis. Navale old warehouses and hostels record where the poet Dante,
the scientist Christian Doppler, and the Cabots, father
ALTA ACQUA
Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa, 5176/b
and son explorers, lodged.
☎ +39 041 296 0841
Turning into Via Garibaldi (one of the canals that
Luigi Frizzo runs this eccentric bookshop Napoleon filled in to create a street) I usually nip down
with books stacked in an old gondola and the sotoportego (an alleyway under a building) that leads
a bath, and cats sleeping on the till. You to Calle del Forno, weaving round some blind corners to
may not find the book you want but you reach the Arsenale. This back route has the advantage
certainly won’t get bored. of bringing you to the very spot on which Canaletto
painted his serene View of the Entrance to the Arsenal in
Luigi Frizzo
SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Calle Seconda de la Fava, 5263
The irregular Campo Santa Maria Formosa is
dominated by its titular church, which has
two distinct façades. The one facing the
canal is High Renaissance; the other, facing
into the campo, is baroque.
SCUOLA DEGLI SS GIORGIO E TRIFONE
Castello, 3259/a I usually nip down the
☎ +39 041 522 8828
www.scuoladalmatavenezia.com sotoportego that leads to Calle
Inside this 15th-century meeting house
built by Slav merchants (Schiavoni) are del Forno to reach the Arsenale
many paintings depicting the lives of
the saints by Vittore Carpaccio. Over the
entrance is a relief of St George and the
Dragon by Pietro di Salò; above it, a Virgin
enthroned with Saints.
CHIESA SAN ZACCARIA
Campo San Zaccaria, 4693
☎ +39 041 522 1257
There’s an atmospheric, waterlogged crypt
containing the mortal remains of eight
doges in this majestic church, but also
a delightful Madonna and Child with Saints
by Giovanni Bellini.
MUSEO STORICO NAVALE
Riva San Biasio, 2148
☎ +39 041 244 1399
www.marina.difesa.it
From the Doges’ Bucintoro to Italian
torpedo mini-subs from World War II, this
compact museum provides various insights
into Venice’s long and unique relationship
with the sea.

WHERE TO STAY
DANIELI
Riva degli Schiavoni
% +39 041 522 6480 4196
www.danielihotelvenice.com
The oldest commercial hotel in Venice and
one of the grandest, with superb views of
Bacino San Marco.
PALAZZO SANT’ANTONIN
Fondamenta dei Furlani
% +39 041 523 1621
www.hotelsantantonin.com
Small, family-run palazzo with a large
garden and friendly staff. Less than ten
minutes from Riva degli Schiavoni.
LIASSIDI PALACE HOTEL
Ponte dei Greci
% +39 041 520 5658
www.liassidipalacehotel.com
15th-century palazzo arranged around an
attractive modern courtyard with rooms
overlooking the Fondamenta San Lorenzo.
LONDRA PALACE
Riva degli Schiavoni
% +39 041 520 0533
www.londrapalace.com
Tchaikovsky’s favourite Venetian hotel
is located behind the statue to Vittorio
Emauele II on Riva degli Schiavoni.
PALAZZO SCHIAVONI
1732. It looks remarkably unchanged. There’s a small
Fondamenta dei Furlani
maritime museum here with boats, including a ducal
% +39 041 241 1275
transport, and across the wooden bridge that Canaletto www.palazzoschiavoni.com
depicted so clearly, a number of carved lions that were A series of self-catering apartments near
seized by Venice’s fearsome trading fleet on its travels the Scuola degli SS Giorgio e Trifone with
and left here. The tallest, called the Piraeus lion has the luxury of breakfast delivered to your
some Viking runes carved on its flank. room in the morning.
RARELY VISITED BY TOURISTS Palazzo Schiavoni

Walking along the canal that encircles the Arsenale
brings me to Chiesa di San Martino, which has the
Arsenale’s military chaplain as its minister. It also
contains the funeral monument of a 17th-century doge,
Francesco Erizzo, and a portrait of the Madonna in Sorrow
by Palma il Giovane. The prolific Sansovino designed
the current structure and yet it’s rarely visited by
tourists. It’s always just me and a few old ladies.
More weaving through narrow lanes and under
sotoportegi brings me to Campo Bandiera e Moro.
Its name commemorates the Bandiera brothers and
their companion Domenico Moro, who were executed
by an Austrian firing squad in 1844 during the
Risorgimento. The brothers were sons of Baron
Francesco Bandiera, whose home, Palazzo Soderini This page, top
stands in this campo. Also on this square is the church of and above: Chiesa
San Giovanni in Bragora, where Vivaldi was baptised in di San Martino HOTEL LA RESIDENZA
1678. A copy of his birth certificate is on display inside. was designed by
Campo Bandiera e Moro
the great Jacopo
From here I head west through an area of Castello Sansovino; San % +39 041 528 5315
where many Greek traders used to live, as indicated by Giorgio dei Greci has
www.venicelaresidenza.com
names like Salizada dei Greci, Calle dei Greci and Corte a leaning tower to The former Palazzo Badoer Gritti sits on the
dei Greci. The Church of San Giorgio dei Greci has rival Pisa’s campo where Vivaldi was baptised.

Clockwise from
left: Street art
near San Francesco
della Vigna; Londra
Palace and the
Paradiso restaurant;
inside the Ospedale
Civile, the Chapel
of San Lazzaro
dei Mendicanti;
the monument to
the doges inside
Zanipolo
This is Castello after all,

where every day the sublime
rubs shoulders with the grimy
a wonky, leaning campanile to rival Pisa’s, seemingly Now I turn left, heading north past a wall that is –
lurching into the canal below. On the bridge opposite, surprisingly – a riot of colourful graffiti, to cross over to
close to Crazy Bar Venezia, gondoliers congregate, the massive San Francesco della Vigna. This, along with
hoping for trade. I’ve said hello in the past but have Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, is one of two Franciscan
always been put off by the board that explains how churches in Venice. It was designed in sober Renaissance
much they charge. In any case I’m walking today all the style by Jacopo Sansovino in 1554 but given a splendid
way along Fondamenta di San Lorenzo to the huge brick façade by Palladio, who was brought in to bestow some
Chiesa di San Lorenzo itself. This 16th-century church of his customary panache in 1562. Sadly you can never
never received its marble façade and has been under get far enough away from the façade to see it properly.
restoration – still incomplete – for decades. There is a An old gasometer intrudes on one side onto the campo on
rumour that Marco Polo was buried inside, but actually which the church stands. This is Castello after all, where
it’s more likely he was buried at the no longer extant every day the sublime rubs shoulders with the grimy.
Church of San Sebastiano. Inside, the church has a severity befitting the
Franciscans but its chapels, pre-sold in the 16th century
PINK MARBLE FLAGSTONE to aristocratic families in order to fund the building
Skirting the church and crossing another canal I come
to the Corte Nova Shrine, which is located under a
sotoportego that leads to this courtyard of apartments.
Set into the pavement there is a pink marble flagstone
which locals touch for good luck. An inscription tells
that an image of the Virgin and St Jerome in this very
passageway saved the neighbourhood from a devastating
plague of 1630. It has allegedly continued to save
lives ever since, including during the Austrian aerial
bombing of 1917 and 1918.
From here I pass a row of shops selling fruit and
vegetables and wine from casks – just bring your own
plastic bottle for €4 worth of prosecco. Now I turn
right, passing Palazzo Contarini della Porta di Ferro.
This is one of many palaces built for the Contarini
family, who also financed Ca’Doro on the Grand Canal.
This palazzo is 14th-century and looks semi-derelict
from the streets. Deceptively, behind its iron gate it’s
clear it has been turned into luxury apartments.

WHERE TO EAT
AL VECIO CANTON
Ruga Giuffa
☎ +39 041 528 7143
www.veciocanton.it
Hearty taverna rising over two floors in
Castello’s old Armenian neighbourhood with
a good line in pizza and house wine.
COVINO
Calle del Pestrin
☎ +39 041 241 2705
www.covinovenezia.com
A tiny, 16-seater corner restaurant with
a fixed €40 menu for three courses that
features local specialities re-imagined.
The name is a pun on “little cave” and a
place with wine.
AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO
Salizada Zorzi
☎ +39 041 528 5332
project – are full of votive art. Works by Palma il www.algiardinetto.it
Giovane, Veronese, Negroponte, Tiepolo, Pellegrino The main restaurant is inside a 14th-
and Paolo Veronese are crammed into these recesses. century family chapel but most people
An hour in this church is not wasted, but if you only come to eat in the 200-seater garden which
have a short time, look for the Bellini in the Cappella grows its own grapes for a sweet red wine.
Santa which Ruskin grumpily claimed was the only
reason to visit San Francesco. Al Giardinetto
da Severino
SCULPTURES OF GIANTS
Nearing the end of my morning walk, I pass the
Church of Santa Maria dei Derelitti which has been
deconsecrated and is now used for concerts. Its façade
was decorated by Baldassarre Longhena and contains
extraordinary sculptures of giants by Giusto Le Court.
Once again I find myself wishing I could get further
back to appreciate their monumental muscularity.
I end up at Venice’s most beautiful church (forget
San Marco). Known locally as Zanipolo but officially PARADISO
as Chiesa di SS Giovanni e Paolo, this is a lofty Gothic GETTING THERE Riva degli Schiavoni
masterpiece and contains funerary monuments to ☎ +39 041 520 6644
25 doges, each more spectacular than the previous. ➤ BY PLANE
British Airways offers return flights Friendly waiters serve a good-value lunch
The Chapel of the Rosary contains a dramatically carved from Heathrow, Gatwick and London City here on the ground floor of the Hotel
ceiling featuring three paintings by Veronese. Another airports from £62. Savoia & Jolanda. People come for the view
hour can be happily expended here and nearby there British Airways Holidays (www.
of San Giorgio Maggiore and, for once, are
are coffee shops next to the statue of Bartolomeo britishairways.com) offers three nights not overcharged for it.
Colleoni, Captain-general of the Republic of Venice, at the Danieli in Castello from £499pp. OSTERIA OLIVA NERA
when you need a break. Price includes return flights.
Calle Seconda de la Fava
Finally I’ll walk into the hospital – yes, Venice’s The cheapest way to transfer from Marco ☎ +39 041 522 2170
modern hospital is entered through the beautiful Scuola Polo airport to Castello is by taking the www.olivanera.com
Grande di San Marco. No hospital reception in the Venice Airport Express (www.atvo.it/ Isabella serves excellent seafood in this
it-venice-airport.html) followed by a
world can compare. Once inside, signs to Oncologia and cosy, informal restaurant in Castello’s old
vaporetto from Piazzale Roma to San
Radiografia rub shoulders with ancient cloisters and Zaccaria. The fastest way to transfer is
Greek neighbourhood.
the most wonderful chapel, which was part of an old by water taxi (www.motoscafivenezia LOCAL
leper hospital that once stood on this spot. How many .it) which costs €110 for a maximum four Salizada dei Greci
hospitals can boast Tintoretto’s Saint Ursula and the people if booked in advance.
☎ +39 041 241 1128
Eleven Thousand Virgins on its wall? ➤ BY TRAIN www.ristorantelocal.com
We are now at the northern border of Castello. Railbookers (☎ 0203 780 2222) offers One of the best trendy new restaurants in
Across the next bridge I’ll be into bustling Cannaregio. three nights at the Londra Palace in Castello, housed in an old shop opposite
But what an extraordinary neighbourhood Castello is. Castello, including all trains, one night Chiesa di Sant’Antonin. The innovative chef
in Geneva en route and a return flight from Murano places great emphasis
Nowhere else does Venice so effortlessly combine the from £1,189pp.
mundane and sublime. on sourcing local produce.

Villa Balbiano
Italian Opulence
on Lake Como
One of the most iconic historic dwellings on the shores of Lake Como,
Villa Balbiano is a glorious masterpiece of Renaissance-style architecture
V
illa Balbiano has been reborn. Its rooms eminent artists and writers. The warm and intimate
have regained their stately magnificence atmosphere of these encounters is still palpable today.
and its decorations harmonize beautifully The library leads to the Sala dell’Arco di Tito, with
with its timeless setting – luxuriant splendid mural paintings by Torricelli on all four walls
vegetation and the limpid expanse of and the ceiling. This richly coloured room provides
water encircled by mountains. access to one of the newly invented spaces created in
Text © Rubens Modigliani. Images © Bruno Ehrs from Villa Balbiano: Italian Opulence on Lake Como, Flammarion 2018.
An ideal itinerary for discovering the villa begins the project: an indoor swimming pool looking out onto
on the ground floor – the original and oldest part of the garden through plate-glass windows installed in
the villa – in the rooms and halls painted with mural archways. The vaulted ceiling was inspired by the aviary
paintings by renowned 18th-century Italian artists such at Villa Borghese in Rome. The two blank walls at
as Giovan Antonio Torricelli and his school. The Sala either end are adorned with enchanting landscape scenes:
delle Colonne, the heart of the villa, features splendid an imaginary veduta of Lake Como on the opposite wall
late 17th-century frescoes by Giovan Paolo and Raffaele as you enter, while behind you is a panorama of Sorrento
Recchi, and four late 18th-century frescoed busts by including Villa Astor, which also belongs to the owners
Francesco and Gaetano Cartosio. of Villa Balbiano, based on a 19th-century painting of
Entering the villa, the eye is immediately drawn the villa. The other ground-floor wing contains a very
to the Sala Durini, special and intimate
so-named because View from the gardens of Villa space: Durini’s
of the coat of arms Balbiano across Lake Como chapel. Damaged
of Cardinal Durini and stripped bare
emblazoned on the over the centuries,
ceiling. Originally it has now been
the study, it has brought back to its
now become the original form and
library. Three meditative peace.
beautiful bookcases The paintings
are filled with on the walls and
historical volumes ceiling are the only
that transport us surviving elements
back in time; indeed, from the original
this was where the chapel, while all
erudite cardinal the furnishings –
liked to receive paintings, icons,

The pool, with its rich carpet of water lilies, occupies
the centre of an oval created in the 17th century.
The owners made sure it was preserved and restored,
along with the 18th-century fountain at its centre

The villa features many Chinese artefacts,

such as this 18th-century porcelain vase
in the centre of the Sala delle Colonne

The master bedroom is dressed in red
and includes a gilded Louis XIV stool
The master bedroom still features its original décor,

though it is difficult to determine its historical period
the tabernacle, a bas relief – were acquired grand staircase leading up to the second floor.
specifically by the owners to recreate its special Here you enter a beautiful gallery featuring
spiritual atmosphere. 17th-century stucco eagles made by Agostino
The other spaces of note on the ground Silva di Morbio. They were the object of
floor are the richly muralled dining room and painstaking work to reveal the full splendour
the patio, particularly prized by the owners of their plumage, surrounding leaves, and all
for its romantic atmosphere, blending the other details that had become obscured over
warm colours of stone with the purple of time. Layers and layers of paint filling in the
the wisteria blossoms. It is a peaceful area, a hollows of the bas relief were also removed. The
natural extension of the villa to the outdoors. master bedroom, accessed from the gallery, still
The salon looking out onto the lake features a features its original décor, though it is difficult
Louis XIV table and Marie Enter the villa into Sala del Durini,
Antoinette armchairs in the once an office and now a library
peaceful Sala del Tempietto

In the muralled dining room,

the silverware is laid on the
carved and gilded mahogany
and bronze table from the
late Louis XVI period

to determine its historical period. Characterised by a
large scarlet damask bed and richly coffered ceiling,
the bedroom is separated from the bathroom by an
open-plan dressing room, where we find a door leading
to a romantic terrace on the roof over the indoor pool,
offering unparalleled views of the lake.
The central room on the second floor is the music
room, featuring a double-height ceiling and a grand
piano. There is also a large stone fireplace, above which
is a sculpted coat of arms. The third level and the attic
balcony railings are original. A door on the other side
of the music room leads to a second suite dominated
by an impressive wardrobe. Theatrically ornate with
its Coromandel lacquerware panels, it acts as a screen
between the dressing room and the bathroom. The
third-floor landing opens onto a suite whose original
wooden door symbolizes its unique character. Its views
We find a door to a romantic The elegant black wood Régence desk
terrace offering views of the lake (1720-1725) in the master suite
of the lake are the most breathtaking of any in the villa Louis XVI polished steel and gilded
and its bathroom is the only one with white fixtures. bronze andirons around the fireplace
The interior motif in the bathroom is based on its
historical white Carrara marble bathtub and was used as
the model for all the others. These immense bathrooms
are faced in marble of different colours from various
sources. The master bathroom is distinguished by its
amazonite interior scheme with sinks, custom made by
a French artisan, set upon massive vintage sculpted and
gilded wooden consoles, and 19th-century mirrors.
Inspired by the eclectic nature of the Italian
Renaissance – a taste for the old and a yen for the new
– the owners and designers succeeded in striking a
perfect balance between the history and heritage of Villa
Balbiano and the most advanced technology, creating
a comfortable dwelling of the rarest elegance that is a
paean to the art of living.
Warm stone and pale violet wisteria

on the patio create a natural outdoor
extension of the villa
Villa Balbiano:
Opulence on Lake
Como With text by
Ruben Modigliani,
photography Bruno
Ehrs. Published by
Flammarion, £55.

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EatITALIA!
It’s time for autumn flavours and hearty recipes, plus
robust red wines from Abruzzo to go with your dishes
CookITALIA!
Jamie Cooks Italy
Cook up a delicious autumn feast
with Jamie Oliver
p54
Before the Passeggiata
A southern supper to make for
family and friends
p 59
Vero Italiano
Making the most of leftovers,
Italian-style
p 66
DrinkITALIA!
We taste top Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo wines
p75
21 pages
of fabulouds
Italian foo
and drink

C O O K I TA L I A !
Gentle slow cooking ensures

a meltingly tender Stracotto
Photography by David Loftus

JAMIE COOKS ITALY
Cook up a delicious autumn feast with these authentic Italian recipes by Jamie Oliver
Stracotto
Beautiful slow-cooked beef ragù This is about getting right to
➤ SERVES 8
the heart of the Italian kitchen
➤ TOTAL TIME 4 hours and frankly, celebrating the
A Tuscan family favourite: think the emotion of Bolognese utter joy of great Italian food.
on the familiarity scale, but with a whole new level of
comfort. It’s inspired by Nonna Miriam from Panzano, and
this simple cooking process gives you what she calls a ‘rich
plate’ – she likened it to the moment you know you’ve got
a winning hand in poker. To serve, it’s traditional to enjoy
the rich sauce with freshly cooked tagliatelle as a primo,
serving the rest of the sauce with the meat as a secondo,
teamed with steamed greens, oozy polenta, mash or
whatever you fancy!
• 1kg piece of beef chuck, sinew removed

• olive oil
• 2 red onions
• 2 carrots
• 2 cloves of garlic
• 2 sticks of celery
• 1 bulb of fennel
• ½ a bunch of fresh rosemary (15g)
• ½ a bunch of fresh sage (15g)
• 250ml Chianti red wine
• 2 tablespoons tomato purée
• 1.5 litres organic meat or veg stock
1 Place the meat in a fairly snug-fitting casserole pan on a

medium-low heat with 2 tablespoons of oil, turning with
tongs, while you peel the onions, carrots and garlic, trim the
celery and fennel, then roughly chop it all to make a soffritto
– it cooks low and slow so there’s no need to be too precise.
Stir into the pan, tie the rosemary and sage together and
add, then season with sea salt and black pepper. Cook for 20
to 30 minutes, or until starting to caramelize, stirring the
veg and turning the meat occasionally.
2 Turn the heat up to high, pour in the wine, stir in the tomato
purée, and let the wine cook away. Pour in the stock, bring
to the boil, then place a double layer of scrunched-up wet
greaseproof paper on the surface. Reduce to a low heat and
cook for around 3 hours, or until the meat is meltingly
tender, turning and basting occasionally. Season to
perfection.
3 Lift the meat out on to a board, carve it into thin slices, and
spoon over enough of that incredible sauce to keep the meat
nice and juicy. Toss the rest of the sauce (reduce on the hob,
if needed) with freshly cooked tagliatelle, and finely grate
over a little Parmesan, to serve. Double win.
CALORIES FAT SAT FAT PROTEIN CARBS SUGAR SALT FIBRE
360kcal 20.6g 7.2g 30.6g 8g 6.2g 0.7g 2.6g

Amalfi lemon tart

White wine, olive oil &
vanilla pastry
(For image see page 58)
➤ SERVES 10-12
➤ TOTAL TIME 2 hours, plus chilling
This wonderful, rather delicious baked lemon tart is

fresh but comforting and just a stone’s throw away
from a baked cheesecake. It’s great served with ice
cream, and really nice with seasonal berries, such
as raspberries or strawberries. If you’re feeling the
Italian vibe, a little slice for breakfast with a black
coffee is a real treat.
PASTRY
• 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
• 50g icing sugar, plus extra for dusting
• 75ml olive oil

Panissa rice
• 75ml Greco di Tufo white wine
• ½ tsp vanilla bean paste

Smoked pancetta, cured meats, borlotti beans,
FILLING
• 5 large lemons
tomatoes & red wine
• 500g quality ricotta cheese ➤ SERVES 4
• 150g caster sugar ➤ TOTAL TIME 55 minutes
• 2 large free-range eggs
Panissa is risotto’s frumpy but very, very tasty cousin. The way the difference was
1 To make the pastry, put the flour and icing sugar into a explained to me by Rosa, who taught me, is that there’s simply more in panissa so
large bowl with a good pinch of sea salt. Make a well in it’s considered more of a whole meal than risotto is. You know it’s ready when it’s
the middle, then add the oil, wine and vanilla paste. thick enough for your spoon to stand up in the middle – how cool is that?
Use a fork to whip up the wet mixture, gradually bringing
the flour in from the outside until it comes together as a • 50g piece of higher-welfare smoked pancetta
ball of dough. • 50g quality salami
2 Tip on to a lightly floured surface and knead for just a • 2 onions
couple of minutes, then wrap in clingfilm and place in • 2 sticks of celery
the fridge for 30 minutes. • 1 litre organic meat stock
3 On a flour-dusted surface, roll out the pastry to about • 1 bunch of fresh rosemary (30g)
3mm thick. Loosely roll it up around the rolling pin and • 300g Arborio risotto rice
unroll it over a 25cm loose-bottomed tart tin, easing and • 250ml Barbera d’Asti red wine
pushing it carefully into the sides. Trim off any excess, • 1 x 400g tin of quality plum tomatoes
patch up any holes, then prick the base with a fork, • 1 x 400g tin of borlotti beans
cover with clingfilm, and chill in the freezer for 1 hour • 4 sprigs of fresh flat-leaf parsley
30 minutes.
4 Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Gas Mark 4 . When the time’s 1 Chop the pancetta and salami into 1cm chunks, place in a cold casserole pan and put it on
up, bake the pastry case blind for 25 minutes, or until a medium-high heat to let the fat render out. Stir occasionally while you peel the onions
lightly golden. Meanwhile, finely grate the zest of 1 lemon and celery, then chop both into 1cm chunks. Stir the veg into the pan and cook for 10
and put aside. Squeeze all the lemons to give you 150ml of minutes, or until soft, stirring regularly. In a separate pan, simmer the stock and rosemary.
juice, then whisk with the rest of the filling ingredients 2 Stir the rice into the veg to toast for 2 minutes, then pour in the wine and let it cook
until smooth, by hand or in a food processor. Pour into the away. Scrunch in the tomatoes through your clean hands, then start adding the stock, a
tart case and bake for 30 minutes, dusting with icing sugar ladleful at a time, letting each one cook away before adding more. Keep a close eye on it
and sprinkling over the lemon zest for the last 5 minutes. and stir constantly for 20 minutes, or until the rice is cooked but still retains its shape.
Transfer to a wire rack to cool – it will have a slight Drain the beans and stir into the pan with the last ladleful of stock. When your spoon
wobble, but will set as it cools. Dust with extra icing stands up, it’s done. Taste, and season to perfection with black pepper. Finely chop and
sugar, then slice and serve. stir in the parsley leaves, then tuck on in.
CALORIES FAT SAT FAT PROTEIN CARBS SUGAR SALT FIBRE CALORIES FAT SAT FAT PROTEIN CARBS SUGAR SALT FIBRE
323kcal 14.4g 4.9g 8.5g 41.5g 22.8g 0.2g 08g 545kcal 11.3g 3.9g 22.4g 82.6g 9.4g 1.4g 8.5g

There’s simply more in
panissa so it’s considered
more of a meal than risotto.
Panissa rice is a hearty

and tasty one-pot wonder

Jamie Cooks Italy

Jamie Cooks Italy by Jamie Oliver is published by Penguin Random House
© Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited (2018 Jamie Cooks Italy), photography: David Loftus
by Jamie Oliver
is published by
Michael Joseph,
£26. Photography
by David Loftus.
Amalfi lemon tart,

for recipe see page 56
If you’re feeling
the Italian vibe,
a little slice for
breakfast with
a black coffee is
a real treat.

Before the Passeggiata
Sit down with friends and this southern
Italian supper menu by Diana Henry
Burrata with fennel,

roast peppers, anchovies
and capers
Burrata con finocchio, peperoncini
arrosto, acciughe e capperi
➤ SERVES 2 ➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes ➤ ROASTING 30 minutes
Burrata oozes lactic sweetness. It’s also the perfect focal point
for a dish that requires few other ingredients: start with good
burrata and there isn’t much that can go wrong. Here, the
saltiness of anchovies and capers and the sweetness of peppers
are excellent counterpoints. The fennel isn’t just for its aniseed
flavour, but also for crunch.
• 4 red peppers, halved and deseeded

• regular olive oil
• sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium fennel bulb
• about 4 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
• small handful of basil leaves, roughly torn
• about 12 mint leaves, torn
• 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
• 275g burrata
• 12 anchovies in olive oil (use a good-quality brand, such as
Ortiz), chopped
• 2 tbsp capers, rinsed and patted dry
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C/Gas Mark 5. Place the pepper halves in

a roasting tin, drizzle with regular olive oil and season. Roast for
30 minutes, until soft and slightly scorched. Leave to cool, then
cut into strips. (You can peel the skin off the peppers if you like,
but I rarely bother.)
2 Trim the tips of the fennel, then halve the bulb lengthways. Cut
the core out of each piece and remove any tough or discoloured
outer leaves. Put about 3 tablespoons of the lemon juice in a
bowl. Either shave each piece of fennel on a mandoline, or slice it
very finely with a sharp knife. You want to end up with wafer-thin
slices. Toss in the lemon juice to stop it discolouring.
3 Mix the herbs together with the extra-virgin olive oil, ½ tbsp of
the lemon juice and some seasoning. Taste and adjust the
seasoning, adding more lemon juice, if you want. Lift the burrata
Images © Laura Edwards
out of its liquid and carefully set it on kitchen paper to drain a

bit, otherwise the milky liquid seeps into the olive oil.
4 Put the burrata on a serving plate with the pepper and fennel
alongside. Scatter on the chopped anchovies and the capers, then
spoon on the herb dressing. Lightly dress the burrata with more
extra-virgin olive oil and serve immediately.

Spaghetti and shellfish al cartoccio

Spaghetti con frutta di mare al cartoccio
➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes ➤ COOKING 30 minutes
This might seem a hassle, but the paper 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. each with a little extra-virgin olive oil.
parcels aren’t just for show. The pasta, Clean the mussels: remove any beards and Lightly oil 2 roasting tins, too.
which cooks with the seafood, becomes barnacles (scrape the latter off with a 5 Parboil the pasta in lots of boiling, lightly
wonderfully flavoured with the fish. The table knife) and wash the shells. Tap each salted water for 7 minutes. Drain and
aroma as you open the packets is great, against the sink as you go and discard moisten it with extra-virgin olive oil. Heat
too: pure Mediterranean seaside. It’s any that are open and don’t close. the remaining ½ tbsp of extra-virgin olive
really worth doing (though hard to pull 2 Heat 2 tbsp of the extra-virgin olive oil in oil in a frying pan and quickly sauté the
off for more than four diners). a pan large enough to hold the mussels. prawns, just long enough to get a very
Add the onion and cook until soft but not pale pink colour – they will continue to
• 1kg mussels coloured. Add the garlic, chilli and cook in the parcels. Season.
These recipes
• 2½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus tomatoes, increase the heat a little and 6 Divide the pasta between the parcels,
have been taken
more for the parcels and pasta cook for another 3 minutes. Add the putting it in the middle. Add the prawns
from How to
Eat a Peach by
• 1 small onion, peeled and very finely alcohol and bring to the boil. and mussels with their sauce. (Don’t add
Diana Henry, chopped 3 Reduce the heat to medium, add the so much sauce that it starts to run across
published by • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced mussels and cook for 2 minutes, or until the paper; it should cling to the pasta
Mitchell Beazley, • ¼ tsp chilli flakes they open, shaking the pan a couple of and seafood.) Season, then douse each
RRP £25. Imagery • 6 large tomatoes, peeled, deseeded times and throwing in the parsley for the portion with a little extra-virgin olive oil.
by Laura Edwards. and chopped last 30 seconds or so. When the mussels 7 Carefully pull the 2 longer edges of each
• 200ml dry white vermouth are cooked, remove and discard any which parcel together, turning them over to seal
• 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf haven’t opened. Take half the mussels (don’t roll it up so the parcel is tight, you
parsley leaves out, remove the meat from the shells, want to make a kind of tent). Now seal
• 425g spaghetti return the meat to the pan and cover to each parcel by turning over the ends as
• 600g raw shelled king prawns, keep warm. well. Carefully move them to the roasting
deveined 4 Put together 4 double rectangles of tins and bake for 7 minutes. Transfer the
• sea salt flakes and freshly ground greaseproof paper (for extra strength), parcels to plates – again, be very careful
black pepper each about 44x26cm. Brush the centre of – and serve.
“The aroma as you

open the packets is pure
Mediterranean seaside"

“Making ice cream without a
machine is more fun than it
sounds – as long as you don’t
forget to turn it!”
Ricotta, candied lemon and

pistachio ice cream
Ricotta, limoni caramellati e
gelato al pistacchio
➤ MAKES about 1 litre
➤ PREPARATION 1 hour, with an ice cream machine
• 500g ricotta, preferably fresh rather than UHT

• 50ml whole milk
• 200ml double cream
• 150g caster sugar
• finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon,
plus the juice of 1½ lemons
• 25g candied peel, plus more to serve (optional)
• 20g shelled unsalted pistachio nuts, roughly chopped, plus
more to serve (optional)
1 Mash the ricotta in a bowl and gradually add the milk and cream,
whisking with a fork or a balloon whisk so that everything mixes
together well. Add the sugar and zest, stirring to help the sugar
dissolve. Cover and put in the fridge to chill.
2 Add the lemon juice and churn in an ice cream machine, or
transfer to a shallow container and put in the freezer. If you’re
using the latter, manual method, take the ice cream out and
churn it – either using electric beaters or by putting the mixture
in a food processor – 3 times during the freezing process. Do this
first after about 1 hour, when the mixture is setting around the
edges, then at two-hour intervals. Cover with a lid, or with cling
film or greaseproof paper, between each churning; and also when
you store it.
3 While the ice cream is still a little soft, mix in the candied peel
and pistachio nuts. Freeze until needed, then serve sprinkled with
more candied peel and pistachio nuts, if you like.

B U Y I TA L I A !
ITALIAN JAMS
There’s nothing like a fruity conserve for brightening breakfast time –
and beyond! The Italians certainly make them well, which is why we are
indulging in a taste of the sweet life with seven fine jams this month
I
talian fruit jams never fail to satisfy a sweet tooth. Generally made quite
simply from fruit and sugar – and without the water content that bulks out
many mass-produced jams – artisan jams from Italy are known for their rich
and intense fruit flavours and natural sugar content. This mouth-wateringly
sweet spread is worth keeping in your larder at all times, and not just for your toast
at breakfast time – Italian jams and conserves have many more tasty uses, from
livening up panini and making sweet tarts to using as a glaze on tender cuts of meat
for a unique sweet and savoury combination, or eating with a strong hard cheese.
Figs, berries, cherries and plum are all firm favourites with the Italians, but there
are a host of other exciting jam flavour combinations out there, a few of which we
have sampled in the course of this feature, notably carrot and orange, liquorice and
prickly pear, along with more familiar (but no less flavoursome) ingredients.
DITOR
NOV
LIA! E
’S CHO
EDITOR’S CHOICE 2018

ITALIAN CHERRY ICE ITA
CONSERVE
From Crosta & Mollica
www.crostamollica.com
Price £2.25 for 240g
We featured these
deliciously sour
Amarena cherries from
Emilia-Romagna a few 1
issues ago in a rich
sugar syrup. This time
they are to be found
in Crosta & Mollica’s
sweet, fruity conserve.
The label declares that
the jar contains 65g of 1 FIOR DI FRUTTA 2 ALPA ORGANIC
cherries per 100g, and ORGANIC WILD CARROT AND
it is indeed packed to BLACKBERRY JAM ORANGE JAM
the brim with tender From Nife is Life From Sous Chef
chunks and whole juicy www.nifeislife.com www.souschef.co.uk
fruit. It has the soft set Price £4.50 for 250g Price £4.50 for 200g
typical of a conserve and One of Italy’s most popular These organic ingredients,
you definitely taste the brands, this fruity choice is grown in Calabria, combine
freshness of the fruit bursting with the flavour of to create a delicious spread.
and a slight sour tang. It wild blackberries. Sweetened The zesty orange brings out
is sweet without being with apple sugar and natural the natural sweetness of the
sticky, which makes it pectin, it was a hit with our carrots to deliver a balanced
feel rather indulgent but light at the same time – our kind of jam! They also have Fig, sweet-toothed testers. flavour in a delicious texture.
Peach and ACE (after the vitamins in its orange, lemon and carrot ingredients) which
we can’t wait to try. Find them in major supermarkets and online at Ocado. VERDICT ★★★★ VERDICT ★★★★
A non-Italian option is the This a jam with so many
VERDICT ★★★★★ ultimate peanut butter and possibilities, sweet and
Certainly this jam is so much more than a luxurious breakfast spread. Stir into jelly sandwich, but try it savoury. Use it to fill a
mascarpone or yoghurt, use to fill a crostata or as an accompaniment to duck. with cheeses or stirred into carrot cake or as a glaze
fresh plain yoghurt. for duck or chicken.

2 3 4
5 6
3 FIASCONARO 4 NATURE MED 5 VIS BIO DELIZIA 6 PARADISO DEI

FICHI D’INDIA JAM LIQUORICE & APPLE APRICOT JAM GOLOSI CEDRO JAM
From Sous Chef From Vorrei From Something Italian From Vorrei
www.souschef.co.uk www.vorrei.co.uk www.something-italian.co.uk www.vorrei.co.uk
Price £5.95 for 360g Price £5.99 for 230g Price £5.50 for 330g Price £4.50 for 250g
Made in Sicily from the The world’s finest liquorice A solid consistency is The cedro is a member of
ubiquitous prickly pear, this comes from Calabria, which the first impression you’ll the citrus family, not so
adventurous conserve has is where this organic jam is get from this gluten-free well known outside Italy.
a great consistency with a produced. Rich and dark it’s conserve from Vis. The With a subtly refreshing
fairly smooth texture and sweetened with apple and apricots are certainly there in bitter tang, this soft set
fresh, juicy flavour. Certainly woody with liquorice – we abundance (there is a really marmalade has a pleasing
a talking point at tea time were bowled over by the good fruit content) and the texture with just the right
with a unanimous thumbs up! intense depth of flavour. flavour is deep and fruity. balance of sweetness.
VERDICT ★★★★ VERDICT ★★★★ VERDICT ★★★★ VERDICT ★★★★

Try this unusual conserve This intriguing sweet/ With its firm set and Packed with tender chunks
over gelato, or how about savoury combination is chunks of soft apricot, of peel (the fruit is 70%
in a freshly baked Victoria quite addictive – try it this jam has a pleasing rind), this bitter-sweet
sponge layered up with with a strong cheese or tang for those early marmalade is the perfect
fresh cream? over vanilla ice cream. morning breakfasts. breakfast spread!

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Vero Italiano
LEFTOVERS
In the next part of his series uncovering the secrets of Italian food, Mario Matassa
turns to the subject of leftovers. Economical, quick to cook, and packed with flavour,
Italian leftover recipes are the perfect way to make the most of what you have.
F
or Italians, using up leftover food is a virtue, It’s the same principle when it comes to risotto
and one that has been transformed into an or polenta. While both can be time-consuming dishes
artform. The Tuscans in particular are a to prepare in their own right, by making more than
shining example of this tradition. They have you need you are effectively getting two or more meals
invented more ways of using leftover bread for the effort of one.
than they have of using it fresh! One of Italy’s most More than any other store cupboard ingredient,
iconic dishes, the humble ribollita, is in fact nothing however, bread epitomises the Italian knack for culinary
more than a clever guise for leftover soup that has been invention. We all shop for our bread here on a daily
re-boiled and garnished with bread that has seen fresher basis and it would be unthinkable to sit down to a meal
days. Tuscans know only too well that twice-cooked without having fresh bread to accompany it. This means
vegetables concentrate the flavours and, in fact, this that at the end of the day there always seems to be a
dish tastes so good that restaurants today often charge surplus in the bread bin. Yet, in all the years I’ve been
exorbitant prices for their not-so-humble ribollita. living here, I’ve never seen anyone throw away bread.
Today’s use of leftovers in the Italian kitchen stems There are endless variations on the uses for old bread.
from a time when food was scarce and the idea of It can be ground into fine breadcrumbs and combined
The truth is that some of our favourite and most famous

dishes were originally conceived as ways of using up leftovers
throwing anything away inconceivable. Such was the with a little egg to coat chicken or veal escalopes. It
importance of using leftovers that in 1916, Olindo can be broken into pieces, soaked in milk, then used
Guerrini, a writer and poet, published L’arte di utilizzare to soften polpette (meatballs). For an economical sweet
gli avanzi della mensa (The Art of Using up Leftovers), treat, it is soaked in a liqueur to make a bread cake
a comprehensive collection of regional recipes he had (similar to the British bread and butter pudding).
gathered over many years. The work was very influential However, it is probably best known for making the
and many of the recipes in the book are still cooked in countless varieties of bruschette and crostini. It’s not even
homes across the country today. necessary to have a topping: in its most simple form
Italians no longer face the same hardships they it is just toasted or grilled and then anointed with
did, but they haven’t lost sight of their roots; leftovers a rub of garlic and a drizzle of olive oil.
still feature in every family’s weekly menu. The However you go about using up your leftovers,
truth is that some of our favourite and most famous they need not be faced with dread. Some of my most
dishes were originally conceived as ways of using up cherished and lingering food memories have involved
leftovers. Take, for example, the ubiquitous spaghetti leftovers. On Tuesday afternoons I remember coming
with red sauce. Personally, on Sundays I always make home from school to find my mother or grandmother
more spaghetti than I am going to need that day. This mashing up polenta with potatoes and cheese. Then, like
means that the next day I can throw it into a pan, add a conveyor belt, my mother would begin forming small
a splash of oil, fry it up, and have the perfect meal patties and then frying them. My siblings and I would
in minutes – and everyone fights over the crunchy make short work of this treat. And as soon as our plates
‘burnt’ bits at the bottom. It’s a habit I picked up from were clear another helping would arrive.
Italians eat bread childhood. Every Sunday at noon we would cross town The recipes that follow are all simple, economical
with every meal,
and this means that
to my grandparents’ house for lunch, and every Sunday and healthy. What’s more, they are the best choice in
however well you evening we would return home with a large bowl of cold comfort food, and are things that will always remind you
judge it there will spaghetti in our arms. There were no prizes for guessing of good home-cooking. What could possibly be better
always be leftovers what we were going to have for lunch on Mondays! on a cold autumn evening?

Text, recipes and images by Mario Matassa
The secret to these recipes is

that you don’t need to be too
precise about ingredients –
just use your imagination

Virtually any pre-cooked

vegetable, leftover meat, rice
or even pasta can be added
to a frittata

FRITTATA
The frittata is simply an Italian
version of the omelette. It’s a no-
fuss dish and there are no hard and
fast rules when it comes to adding
ingredients to the frittata. It’s the
ultimate ‘let’s open the fridge and
see what’s in there’ meal. In fact, the
possibilities are endless. Virtually
any pre-cooked vegetable, leftover
meat, rice or even pasta can be added
to a frittata. The real trick is finding
a selection of ingredients that
complement each other.
A mix of vegetables and perhaps
some spicy Italian sausage is always
a popular combination, but in the
recipe that follows, I’ve opted for
a vegetarian frittata. I had some
leftover asparagus from a starter,
and who doesn’t always have a few
roast potatoes left over after Sunday
lunch? A little cheese always adds a
greater depth of flavour to a frittata POLPETTE
(it doesn’t matter how stale it is). Polpette – small, round patties – can be made from meat, fish or vegetables, and can either
Apart from that all you need is a be cooked in a tomato sauce or fried. Traditionally they were prepared from leftovers,
few fresh free-range eggs to bind although their popularity today is such that they are also made with fresh ingredients.
everything together. What’s common to all polpette is that they are flavoured with a healthy handful of grated
cheese and bound together with an egg.
Living in Emilia, a Sunday favourite is meat-stuffed ravioli in a freshly-made chicken
Italian omelette and beef broth. It’s a bit of a laborious enterprise because the broth should be made the day
before, leaving time for it to cool overnight so that any excess fat can be skimmed off the
Frittata top. However, your efforts are rewarded, and any extra broth can be recycled in risottos,
minestrone and stew. As for the boiled meat, known as bollito in Italian, some people enjoy
➤ SERVES 2
this after their pasta. Personally, I find it bland like that and prefer to leave it to cool and
➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes
➤ COOKING 10 minutes
use it the next day. The meat is then cleaned from the bone, chopped, flavoured with
herbs, seasoned well, then breaded and fried as polpette. Children love polpette and, served
• 2 free-range eggs with greens and boiled potatoes, they make for a healthy meal.
• a handful of cooked asparagus stalks,
roughly chopped
•
•
a few cooked roast potatoes, chopped
30g Parmesan, grated Meatballs
•
•
1 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper Polpette
1 Place the olive oil in a frying pan, add the
roast potatoes and cook over a low heat, • 350g leftover boiled or roast meat 2 In a separate bowl, add the stale bread
until warmed through. Add the asparagus and (chicken, turkey or beef) and a few tablespoons of milk. Leave for
cook for 1-2 minutes. • 2 slices of day-old bread a few moments, until the bread has
2 Into a large bowl, crack the eggs; season • a few tablespoons of milk softened. Add the cheese, egg, bread,
them and beat well. Pour the eggs into the • 80g Parmesan, grated herbs, seasoning and lemon zest to the
frying pan and cook over a medium heat until • 1 free-range egg meat and mix together well. The mix
they set. Place onto serving plates and • a sprig of rosemary and sage, chopped should be a consistency that allows you
sprinkle generously with Parmesan. This can • salt and freshly ground black pepper to mould small meatballs with your
be eaten hot or cold. • grated zest of ½ an unwaxed lemon hands. If it is too wet, add a few dry
• olive oil, for frying breadcrumbs; if it is too dry, add a little
TIP When it comes to frittata, measurements milk. Form meatballs from the mixture,
are almost superfluous. It depends on what 1 Put the meat in a food processor and until the mixture is all used up.
and how much of each leftover item you have whizz it up for a minute, until it has 3 Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan,
in the fridge. Here I have used asparagus and been finely chopped. Or you could chop then fry the meatballs over a medium
roast potatoes, but you could add a handful of it by hand if you like. Place the chopped heat on all sides, until browned and
peas or broad beans as well, or instead. meat in a large bowl. cooked through.

Rice balls
Arancini
➤ SERVES 4
➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes
➤ COOKING 15 minutes
• 2 free-range eggs, beaten

• 50g fine breadcrumbs
• 350g cooked risotto
• 125g fresh mozzarella, chopped into
small cubes
• a few tablespoons of leftover meat ragù
(optional)
• 3 tbsp olive oil, for frying
1 Good preparation is key for this recipe.

Make sure that before you begin
assembling the balls you have placed the
beaten eggs in a bowl, the breadcrumbs
in another large bowl, and have a large
plate or tray ready for the finished
arancini balls to rest on.
2 Begin by placing a large tablespoon of
rice in the palm of your hand and flatten
it out slightly. Place a cube of cheese in
the centre of the ball, then add about a
teaspoon of ragù, if using. Fold the rest of
the rice around the filling and, using both
hands, shape it into a ball.
3 Dip the ball into the egg, then roll in
FRITTELLE DI POLENTA the breadcrumbs. Once done, set aside
Polenta is perhaps the most humble of all Italian staples. When first cooked, it is eaten on the plate or tray and continue to
‘wet’. In this form it can be enjoyed on its own or as an accompaniment to a stew, as polenta make the balls until all the rice has been
concia (dressed with cheese and either lard or pancetta), or cooked with ingredients such as used up. If your hands begin to get too
sticky and the rice difficult to work with,
potatoes, chestnuts, greens or other vegetables. Alternatively, ‘wet’ polenta can be placed in an
just wash your hands, but don’t dry them
ovenproof dish with alternating layers of ragù or mushrooms and cheese, then cooked in the as wet hands make the mixture much
oven to create polenta pasticciata. easier to work with.
Once cold, leftover polenta firms up and can be sliced and fried, then eaten as an 4 Finally, heat the olive oil in a frying pan
accompaniment to a main dish, layered with sauce and cheese and gratinated in the oven, or and, when hot, add the arancini balls and
the fried slices can be topped with any number of sauces. It is also often used instead of bread cook until golden and hot all the way
as the base for crostini. It can also be thinly sliced or cubed, fried in butter and dusted with through. Serve hot or cold.
icing sugar and cinnamon. This method is especially popular in the mountainous areas of
Friuli as an after-school snack or breakfast for children. TIP I must stress that the success of this
dish relies on using cooked risotto rice: its
sticky consistency is perfect for holding the
Polenta fritters round ball shape. The size of the balls is

entirely up to you – you could make small
Frittelle di polenta balls (the size of a large walnut) or, as I

prefer, larger balls (the size of an orange).
• 2 large floury potatoes with your hands. Finally, add the cheeses
• 200g leftover polenta to the bowl.
• 75g Taleggio cheese, chopped 3 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Form
• 30g Parmesan, grated small, flat patties from the polenta
• a few tablespoons of olive oil mixture and add to the pan. Fry them on
• leftover tomato ragù, for serving each side over a medium to high heat for
around 3-4 minutes, until golden and
1 Peel the potatoes, chop into chunks and crispy. Serve topped with a few spoonfuls
boil in a pan of salted water, until soft. of leftover tomato ragù.
2 Place the leftover polenta in a large bowl
and break it up roughly with your hands. TIP I’ve used Taleggio and Parmesan in this
Add the cooked potatoes while they are recipe, but you can use any cheese you
still warm and mix them together roughly have lying around.

As a child I would look
forward to the weekly risotto
because I knew what would
follow the next day
ARANCINI BALLS
I’ve always wondered why arancini balls are especially popular in the
south of Italy, despite the fact that risotto is a northern speciality. Arancini
balls are the south’s answer to a great bar snack – in Naples they could be
classified as street food.
Their origins remain uncertain, although it is most likely that they
were first made either in Campania or Sicily, where they always have been
and still are most popular. Small balls of leftover rice are filled with either
a spoonful of meat ragù or chopped chicken and a cube of mozzarella, then
coated in egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fried until crispy on the outside
and meltingly tender on the inside.
My family comes from Lazio, and arancini balls were a regular treat.
As a child I would look forward to the weekly risotto because I knew what
would follow the next day. To this day, whenever I make risotto I make
more than I need because, like me, my sons are firm fans of arancini.

PANE PERDUTO CON Panettone pudding

PANETTONE Pane perduto con panettone
Whether it’s a ciambella on the sideboard for the
grandchildren after school, or a pandoro or panettone ➤ SERVES 2 ➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes ➤ COOKING 5 minutes
to enjoy over the Christmas season, you will almost • 1 large free-range egg
always find a slice of cake to hand in the Italian • 2 tbsp single cream
household. And after Christmas, once the enthusiasm • 2 thick slices of stale panettone
for yet another slice of panettone finally begins to • 25g unsalted butter
wane, there are many ways to transform it into • 125g fresh strawberries
something special. • 1-2 tbsp icing sugar
Panettone is often substituted for bread in an
Italian version of bread and butter pudding (although 1 Beat the egg in a large, flat-bottomed dish and stir in the cream.
the panettone should never be buttered). Stale ciambella Dip the slices of panettone into the egg mixture and turn them
several times so they are thoroughly coated.
can be used for the base of zuppa inglese (which is like
2 Once the egg mixture has been completely absorbed, heat the
a trifle) or instead of biscuits in a tiramisù – in both butter in a frying pan and, once hot, add the slices of panettone.
cases the cake is briefly dipped in alcohol or coffee Cook the panettone until golden and crispy on one side, then
first. Having said that, the simplest and perhaps best flip it over and cook for another few minutes on the other side,
way to eat a slice of cake that has gone a little past again until crisp.
its best is to simply dip it in a glass of Vin Santo and 3 Once cooked, arrange the panettone slices on a serving plate
enjoy it for what it is! with the strawberries and dust generously with icing sugar.
Serve immediately.

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D R I N K I TA L I A !
MONTEPULCIANO
D’ABRUZZO
RED WINES
Abruzzo is perhaps an overlooked region, and the same
could be said (unfairly) about its wines. We examine the
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape to see what it has to offer
T he standing of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines has become more

significant on the international stage over the past decade, but they
are still seriously underrated outside Italy. It is a fascinating variety,
offering something for everyone: drink it young and enjoy the light, cherry
flavours, or savour the dark complexity of the more mature examples. The
origins of the Montepulciano grape variety are relatively unknown; the name
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is capable of

greatness, delivering rich, warming reds
is the same as the Tuscan town but should not be confused with Vino Nobile
and Vino Rosso di Montepulciano, made using the Sangiovese grape variety.
This wine has a noble history, though, with accounts of its consumption by
the soldiers of Hannibal’s army on their march through Italy.
As well as the younger styles we can now buy from the supermarkets,
easy-drinking and light; the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape is capable
of greatness, delivering rich, warming reds best laid down for a good two
to three years before drinking, as they need time to mellow and mature.
This month, we’re sampling wines from both ends of the Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo spectrum. Turn the page to see how we fared.

D R I N K I TA L I A !
MONTEPULCIANO ALTA QUOTA GRAN

DISCOVERY OF D’ABRUZZO DOC, SASSO DOCG 2012
LA PIUMA 2017 From Liberty Wines
THE MONTH From Waitrose www.libertywine.co.uk
MONTIPAGANO ORGANIC www.waitrose.com Price £21.99
MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC 2017 Price £7.99 Gran Sasso wines are made
From Great Western Wine This lively Montepulciano by Valentino Sciotti and his
www.greatwesternwine.co.uk d’Abruzzo from Waitrose team. All their wines have a
Price £10.95 continues to delight with freshness and vivacity that
Made from organically grown Montepulciano d’Abruzzo its excellent quality at an sets them apart from many in
grapes, this award-winning wine is bright ruby in the glass, affordable price. The bouquet the premium Montepulciano
and has a delightfully fruity ‘summer’ bouquet – think of black cherry and damson d’Abruzzo production zone of
strawberries and red plums. On the palate, it’s smooth and makes way for abundant forest Colline Teramane (the Teramo
medium-bodied with even more fruit, rich with damson and fruits with a hint of warming Hills). This violet-hued wine
mulberry. Long and satisfying on the mellow finish. spice aromats on the palate. has an intense nose of dark
Definitely one to try, this wine fruit, spice and a hint of
is mellow and medium-bodied chocolate. Robust and spicy,
with smooth tannins, so you’ll with plenty more ripe dark
find it eminently drinkable fruit, it has a smoky, dark
whether you pair it with food chocolate finish. An elegantly
O
ISC VE or simply serve as your party balanced wine with good
NT D NOV
RY F T
red wine this season. structure and fine tannins.
2018
H
O
HE MO
GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH…

Serve with pleasure and slices of rare roasted beef, Pasta with tomato-based Grilled pork chops with
a hearty venison casserole or slow-cooked lamb sauces or a slice of classic rosemary or pasta with
Margherita pizza a beef ragù

LE VIGNE DI FARAONE MAJESTIC LOVES UMANI RONCHI NEXT MONTH IN
EatITALIA!
MONTEPULCIANO MONTEPULCIANO MONTEPULCIANO
D’ABRUZZO D’ABRUZZO DOC 2017 D’ABRUZZO ‘JORIO’
DOC 2015 From Majestic Wines DOC 2015
From Berry Bros & Rudd www.majestic.co.uk From Great Western Wine
www.bbr.com Price £6.99 (or £5.99 each www.greatwesternwine.co.uk
Price £18.75 for a case of six) Price £13.50
The Faraone family have
produced their Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo since the 1970s and
This bright and breezy
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
is from the ‘Majestic Loves’
Umani Ronchi is based in Le
Marche, although they do
also have vineyards across
CookITALIA!
you can taste their expertise entry-level range of wines the border in Abruzzo, where
in this well-balanced wine,
almost purple in the glass,
from the company. With
flavours of ripe plum, red
this wine is produced. Made
with grapes from a single
Just Desserts
with heady aromas of cherry, and a subtle herby vineyard, this is a full-bodied Italian dolci with a difference
blackberry and black cherry. note on the palate, this wine of distinction. A plum, for your Christmas celebrations
More fruits of the forest with straightforward wine is full of herb and red cherry bouquet
notes of tobacco and liquorice fruit and easy to drink. With a gives way to deeper flavour
follow on the palate, while lower ABV than some bottles on the palate with damson Taste the Rainbow
silky-smooth tannins and a here, you have a light-bodied and earthy liquorice. With Carmela Sereno’s coloured
refreshing acidity ensure a wine with subtle character firm, smooth tannins from
long, pleasing finish. Even and gentle tannins on the ageing in oak, you’ll savour pasta masterclass
better in a few years’ time. satisfying finish. Drink young. the wine’s ample finish.
Vero Italiano
Game on! We sample the
delights of the wild
Image © Lauren Bamford and Jesper Hede 2017. Taken from Lisa Valmorbida’s Pidapipó, published by Hardie Grant Books. Contents may be subject to change.
DrinkITALIA!
Fine Italian wines for the
festive season
GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH…

Slow-roasted lamb, or a From pizza to pan-fried Drink with a good fillet
bowl of pasta, tomato liver or a warming plate of steak, or how about the
sauce and meatballs herby salsicce and polenta earthiness of porcini?

QUICK
CONVERTER
We know that many of you may prefer to use imperial
or US weights and measures to cook our recipes – use
Images © iStock
our handy conversion tables to translate from metric
WEIGHT SIZE OVEN TEMPERATURES

10g ¼oz 3mm in Celsius Fahrenheit Gas Description
15g ½oz 5mm ¼in 110ºC 225ºF ¼ cool
25g 1oz 1cm ½in 130ºC 250ºF ½ cool
50g 1¾oz 2cm ¾in 140ºC 275ºF 1 very low
75g 2¾oz 2.5cm 1in 150ºC 300ºF 2 very low
100g 3½oz 3cm 1¼in 170ºC 325ºF 3 low
150g 5½oz 4cm 1½in 180ºC 350ºF 4 moderate
175g 6oz 5cm 2in 190ºC 375ºF 5 moderate/hot
200g 7oz 6cm 2½in 200ºC 400ºF 6 hot
225g 8oz 7cm 2¾in 220ºC 425ºF 7 hot
250g 9oz 8cm 3¼in 230ºC 455ºF 8 very hot
275g 9¾oz 9cm 3½in For fan-assisted ovens reduce temperature by 20˚C (35˚F)
300g 10½oz 10cm 4in
350g 12oz 12cm 4½in AMERICAN CUPS VOLUME
375g 13oz 15cm 6in Butter 1.25ml ¼ tsp
400g 14oz 17cm 6½in 1 cup 225g 8oz 2.5ml ½ tsp
425g 15oz 18cm 7in Flour 5ml 1 tsp
1 cup 130g 4½oz
450g 1lb 20cm 8in 15ml 1 tbsp
White sugar
500g 1lb 1oz 23cm 9in 30ml 1fl oz
1 cup 200g 7oz
700g 1lb 6oz 24cm 9½in 50ml 2fl oz
Dried pasta
750g 1lb 7oz 25cm 10in 1 cup 100g 3½oz 100ml 3½fl oz
1kg 2lb 2oz 30cm 12in Liquid 150ml 5fl oz ¼ pint
1.25kg 2lb 8oz 35cm 13½in 1 cup 250ml 8fl oz 200ml 7fl oz pint
1.5kg 3lb 3oz 40cm 15½in ½ cup 120ml 4fl oz 300ml 10fl oz ½ pint
2kg 4lb 4oz 500ml 18fl oz
2.25kg 5lb 600ml 20fl oz 1 pint
2.5kg 5lb 5oz 700ml 1¼ pint
3kg 6lb 6oz 850ml 1½ pints
3.25kg 7lb 2oz 1 litre 1¾ pints
3.5kg 7lb 7oz 1.2 litres 2 pints

Living ITALIA!
Look no further for expert property advice, your questions
answered, plus our handy Flight Guide to Italy
Homes ITALIA!
Homes in Abruzzo
This unspoilt region has
excellent homebuying prospects
p80
Property Showcase
Our round-up of top properties
for sale in Italy this month
p90
Ask ITALIA!
Our experts answer your
burning questions
13 pages p93
of expert
advice and
guidance

L I V I N G I TA L I A !
Homes in
Abruzzo
Spacious and unspoilt, with mighty highlands and gleaming beaches, Abruzzo is
a nature-lover’s paradise. It also has some of Italy’s best-value property, and so
it’s little surprise that the market is hotting up right now, says Fleur Kinson.
H
alfway down the eastern side of the inaccessible sort of place; the region has good, well-
Italian leg, Abruzzo confidently unfurls maintained roads and transport connections, and is easily
between the high Apennines and the reached via direct flights between the UK and regional
blue Adriatic. This is a region of wild, capital Pescara. And for all Abruzzo’s sense of space, you
majestic landscapes where modest- won’t feel cut off here. Socially, as you might imagine,
sized settlements sit surrounded by vast expanses of communities are warm and supportive; people help their
the natural world. Indeed, this is known as Italy’s neighbours, and outsiders are warmly embraced into
‘greenest region’ and a full third of Abruzzo’s land area the fold. The pace of life is slow and gentle, and there’s
is protected national parkland. always time to stop and chat. Abruzzo’s crime rate also
The region’s far west provides an arresting, celestial is rock-bottom, which only adds to the overall sense of
backdrop of mountain peaks, while the east meets the ease and peace that suffuses this place.
warm sea with more than eighty
miles of clean, golden beaches. The snowy peaks of the Gran Sasso UNCULTIVATED BEAUTY
And the distance between these are just a short drive from the sea Abruzzo might not have quite the
two extremes is not so great. historical significance, exquisite
As Christine Purdie of Abruzzo architecture or cultured air of
Property Italy points out, Italian regions such as Tuscany
“Abruzzo is the only place in or Umbria, and it might lack
Europe where you can look at the slick modernity or romantic
the sea while you are skiing. It fantasticality of some of Italy’s
is just one hour from the beach northern regions, but it definitely
to the slopes, which means that has a raw, uncultivated beauty
on a warm day in April you can all its own. If you love wild and
be skiing in the morning, have wholly unspoilt natural spaces, if
a tasty lunch in town and be you love kind and friendly people
sunbathing in the afternoon.” with a strong sense of community
Between the peaks and the and an instinct for hospitality,
beaches, lush green hills and then this is a part of Italy that’s
valleys cradle charming villages likely to appeal to you very
and small towns. Abruzzo is strongly. A lesser-known region
thinly-populated, which helps in a well-visited country, Abruzzo
keep it wonderfully quiet and offers a real sense of exploration
unspoilt, but it’s not a remote or and discovery.

The coastline of Chieti province is famous
for its wooden jetties, or trabocchi

The Lago di Barrea is an artificial

lake in the far southwest of Abruzzo
Among its other charms, taking from €50,000. And from this Monia Di Guilmi of Abruzzo
Abruzzo offers lots of extremely price up to €100,000 there is a very Rural Property concurs. She says,
good-value property. This is perhaps wide choice of country properties. “In 2018 we received more foreign
the single most affordable of all Buyers with a budget of between visitors – and sold more properties –
the central Italian regions, thanks €150,000 and €200,000 would be than ever before. In February,
in part to its very late arrival on able to buy themselves a large villa I was informed by the property
the foreign-buyer scene, just before ready for immediate use. Prestigious web portal Rightmove that interest
the international financial crisis of seaside locations are always going in Abruzzo properties had increased
2008 rather paralysed the whole to be at the higher end of the price by 192% compared to the previous
buying-abroad shebang for several scale, but the value for money on the year. Prices are still very low, but
years. Today in Abruzzo, you might coast is still very good. I think they will slowly increase
get a two-bedroom townhouse in a It seems that overseas buyers because there is so much demand.
charming locale half an hour from have recently woken up to all that In the past it was easier to find old
the sea for just €35,000. Plenty of Abruzzo has to offer them, and the country houses with land; nowadays
habitable homes are yours for the last two years have seen a much it is getting harder because many
Most of the National Park of Abruzzo,

Lazio and Molise lies in Abruzzo
Abruzzo is perhaps the single most affordable
of all the central Italian regions
greater number of buyers here than have already been sold. The few
at any point since the international that remain on the market have
financial crisis began about a therefore a higher value. And
decade ago. Tracey Nicholas of another thing I’ve noticed in 2018
the estate agency Abruzzo Reality is that Abruzzo is getting more
says “Our best two years, over the popular with American buyers.”
past ten years, have been this year
and last year. We don’t think the ON THE UP
market will decline. We hope it Clearly, Abruzzo is on the up right
will carry on increasing. Americans now, but where is a good area to
seem more interested now as well. focus your search for a home here?
There have been articles in various Let’s consider the long seaside,
magazines such as Forbes about the hills behind it, and the high
living in Abruzzo, particularly Città mountains in the west.
Sant’Angelo. We hope that the Abruzzo’s lovely coast, which
British market will improve again ranges from family-friendly beach
too, once Brexit has been resolved.” resorts to gloriously undeveloped

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Sulmona was here before the Romans
expanses of sand, has the region’s

highest property prices, but still Prices become very low indeed once you reach
areas fifty minutes or more from the sea
offers great value for a coastal
location in central Italy. Note that
the regional capital, Pescara, in the
middle of Abruzzo’s coast, is the great views of mountains in one Still, wild open spaces far from
region’s priciest spot. As elsewhere direction and of the sparkling blue towns and traffic might be exactly
in Italy, property prices drop the Adriatic in the other. what you’re looking for. If you
further you move inland and increase Property prices become very don’t mind a much longer travel
your elevation. Thus a canny option low indeed once you reach areas time from the airport to reach
would be to go for a property fifty minutes or more from the your rustic retreat, Abruzzo’s
situated about half an hour from sea, but these high-elevation areas mountainous parts can certainly
the sea, in hilly countryside. This generally offer fewer amenities and provide all the space, quiet, super-
would give you the advantages infrastructure. Plus, as in most fresh air and inspiring vistas you
of low buying price, short travel mountainous areas, the weather can might want. Note that the otherwise
times, good amenities and, usually, be changeable and unpredictable. lovely stretch between L’Aquila and
Loreto Aprutino, where olive oil and wine The fertile hills of Atri produce some of
production are the major industries the best food in the region

Sulmona is a seismic risk zone due Lisa and Mickey enjoying a trip to the coast
to a network of geological fault-
lines. Prices are very low across this
narrow area, and if you choose to
buy here, be absolutely certain that
your property employs all the clever
earthquake-proofing tricks and
devices that are required by law.
Image courtesy of Lisa Tomlin and Mickey Ward

Other areas, and especially those
nearer the sea, present very little
seismic risk. (But note that Italian
law still requires quake-proofing
to be in place in all the nation’s
new and restored properties. Quite
rightly, the national approach is:
why take a risk when you don’t
have to?) The Teramo province
in Abruzzo’s northern coastal
hinterland and the Chieti province
in the southern coastal hinterland
are both highly recommended
areas with good value for money
homes, good roads, attractive OUR LIFE IN ABRUZZO
L
hilly scenery, and plenty of golden
beaches within easy reach. isa Tomlin and Mickey Ward from Surrey own a two-bedroom
property half an hour from the sea in the hilly countryside of
PRECISE LOCATIONS southern Abruzzo. They intend to enjoy several weeks there every
Now that you know in general summer and make shorter visits at other times of the year.
how the land lies, do estate agents What drew them to Abruzzo? “I’ll confess we didn’t really know much
specialising in Abruzzo have about Italy until recently,” Lisa admits. “My older sister Margret was the
any specific tips and suggestions traveller in our family, and it was her who put us onto Abruzzo. We came
for precise locations you might out a few years ago and loved it – the outdoor life, the sense of space. We
consider? Christine Purdie of went hiking in the mountains and stayed in tiny village B&Bs in houses that
Abruzzo Property Italy says, “Most were hundreds of years old. They had vaulted stone ceilings and were deeply
of our clients are searching for atmospheric and beautiful. It felt like we were in another world. Then we
a property within easy access of spent a few days exploring the coast, where we found some perfect, pristine
the coast and close to an historic beaches that had hardly anyone on them, even in the middle of the summer!
village or town with shops, bars Sure, we also found buzzing resort-towns with lots of people and bars, but
and restaurants. The towns that we never felt that anywhere was actually jam-packed or overcrowded, which
made everything so much more relaxing and enjoyable for us.
“When my sister decided that she was going to buy a holiday home
in Abruzzo, she found a house in the country that could easily be divided
into two small properties and she asked if Mickey and I might like to share
in the project. We did some research, found out that Abruzzo seemed to
be a pretty good place to invest because its prices were low but its tourist
popularity was growing, and we decided to take the plunge. So now Margret
owns one side of the building and we own the other. The two properties are
completely self-contained with their own entrances. We bought at the end
of 2017, had the minor building work done in the early spring, and took
our first holiday there in Easter this year. Next year we are going to start
offering holiday rentals.
“Staying in our own place when we’re on holiday is a fantastic feeling.
It’s like we’re visitors but also locals. The people here are almost ridiculously
friendly, and they already greet us like old friends when we go shopping in
the village, even though we still struggle to communicate in Italian. We’re
both taking evening classes in England now, and I really look forward to
eventually being able to build up a network of Italian friends out here and
talk to them with ease. The lifestyle here is wonderful. Beautiful weather
and amazing food, really nice people and so many gorgeous places to visit.
I’ll always be grateful to my travel-savvy sister for pointing us towards
Abruzzo. We might never have heard of this place without her!”

ABRUZZO REGIONAL GUIDE
3
1
INTRODUCTION You should remember, however, that this

Santo Stefano di Sessanio is
a hilltown on the high plains
region is situated squarely in Italy’s most
The central Italian region of Abruzzo is one of active earthquake zone. As is true anywhere in
Italy’s least populated, and around a third of Italy, when buying a home in Abruzzo the first
its land area is given over to nature reserves and most important thing you need to do is to
and national parks. To the west, the Apennine ensure that the property meets all earthquake-
mountain range runs north to south along proofing legal standards, of which there
the region’s border with Lazio, while along are many. There were, of course, four major
its eastern edge is a long sweep of Adriatic earthquakes affecting Central Italy in January
coastline. If you’re looking for an Italian 2017, one of which affected Abruzzo, and prior
base with an abundance of natural beauty to that, an earthquake in 2009 caused severe
punctuated by charming towns and villages, damage to a smaller area around L’Aquila. The
with long, empty beaches to lounge around on recovery process after such events is slow, not
in summer and blissful snowy mountain peaks only in the areas that have been badly hit but
to venture into in winter, you won’t go far also to the region as a whole as visitors tend
wrong in Abruzzo. to stay away in the aftermath of such events.

L’AQUILA Scanno has been a muse
for photographers
•1 L’Aquila, the region’s capital, is
a city of around 70,000 inhabitants
situated on a hill in a narrow valley
flanked to the north by the mountains
of the Gran Sasso, with the main
Apennine range to the west. The
Province of L’Aquila that surrounds it
is the largest, most mountainous and
least densely populated of the region’s
four provinces. The main industry
here is sheep farming, but the city
of L’Aquila itself is by no means short
on high culture: it has a university, a
repertory theatre, a fine-arts academy,
a state conservatory and a film
institute. The pretty medieval centre
of L’Aquila was severely damaged by
the 2009 earthquake (which also took
the lives of 309 people) and although
the 2016 and 2017 earthquakes in
Central Italy did not directly affect
the city, the rebuilding process has
been long and painstaking as strong
efforts are being made to preserve
the character of the areas that were
damaged or destroyed.
TERAMO
•2 The northern province of Teramo

reaches from the 3,000m high region’s largest city, Pescara. This CHIETI
mountains of the Gran Sasso to the is home to Abruzzo’s international
Seven Sisters beaches of the Adriatic
coast – and what is extraordinary
airport, which has become a key
destination for budget airlines. As
•4 Southwest of the city of Pescara
is the smaller city of Chieti, capital
about this particular part of Italy well as attracting sunseekers from of the region’s fourth province. Chieti
is that it only takes you about one northern Europe, Pescara is also a is one of Italy’s most ancient cities –
hour to drive between the two. favourite holiday destination for legend has it that it was founded in
Your route takes you through the Italians. The beach here is 16km long, 1181 BC by the Homeric hero Achilles,
Colline Teramane (the Teramo Hills), and you’ll find elegant boutiques and who named it after his mother, Thetis.
an important area of olive oil and pleasant restaurants and cafés in That may or may not be true, but
wine production – if you have ever town. Understandably, the area around Chieti was certainly an important city
enjoyed a nice glass of Montepulciano Pescara is the region’s most expensive, in Roman times, when more people
d’Abruzzo DOCG (see p75), this is especially along the coast itself, but lived here than do today. Other towns
where it came from. A good part the excellent motorway connections in the province include Ortona, which
of Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga and amenities ensure significant has several pleasant beaches, and
National Park is in Teramo province. visitor numbers all year round. Vasto, further south, which has built
The main towns are Teramo (now more upon its Roman remains to carve itself
accessible thanks to the Gran Sasso Pescara has become a a niche as a tourist destination. Pretty
tunnel and the A24 motorway link), holiday hotspot hill-town Loreto Aprutino is a tranquil
Civitella del Tronto and Atri. town set among olive groves with a
medieval castle, beautiful palaces,
PESCARA mansions and churches. Yet further
inland and further south is Sulmona, a
•3 There has been a good deal of
investment in Abruzzo’s coastline in
small town with a charming medieval
centre, although its origins also go
recent years, particularly around the back beyond Roman times.

Colledimezzo, in the
Province of Chieti, looks
over the Val di Sangro
are most popular include the likes

of Vasto and San Vito Chietino in Abruzzo may be one of Italy’s lesser-known
regions, but visitor interest is definitely growing
Chieti; Penne, Città Sant’Angelo
and Loreto Aprutino in Pescara; and
Atri and Colonnella in Teramo.”
Monia Di Guilmi of Abruzzo
Rural Property highlights several minutes’ drive from the coast. The And what of holiday rental
key towns and their surrounding average price for a two-bedroom prospects? Might you be able
areas. She says, “The area of Palmoli townhouse in Palmoli is €35,000. to cover some of your costs by
in Chieti province is very popular. For a country house, prices vary offering short lets on your home in
There is a large expat community depending on the house’s condition Abruzzo? In a word, yes. Abruzzo
there, but property prices are still and the amount of land, but there’s a may be one of Italy’s lesser-known
affordable. The town has all facilities wide range of countryside properties regions, but visitor interest in the
,such as shops, restaurants, bars, a for less than €100,000. The area place is definitely growing. An
post office, bank, a 24-hour doctor, around Bomba and Colledimezzo increasing number of foreign owners
etc. In addition, it’s just twenty-five tends to be slightly more expensive are offering holiday lets on their
because of the proximity of the Abruzzo home, and an increasing
The view over the Marina lake. Roccaspinalveti is a cheaper number of visitors to the region
at San Vito Chietino option, but the town is situated fifty are enjoying such properties. As
minutes’ drive from the coast.” you might expect, the best summer
holiday rental prospects are generally
RESTORATIONS to be had on the coast, with the
The consensus view is that it’s a bit Pescara area and the beautiful tourist
more expensive to restore an old town of Vasto particularly strong.
building in Abruzzo right now than But houses in the hills rent very
it is to buy one which has already well too, especially if they have a
been restored. That said, buyers tranquil location, a pool and
who fall in love with an old a lovely view. Higher mountain
tumbledown home with charming areas will generally have fewer
period features certainly shouldn’t clients, although a wintertime
discount the idea of restoring it. The ski market does exist.
satisfaction of restoring, plus having
your ideal home as an end result,
USEFUL CONTACTS
can make the overall cost worth it
for many buyers. In Abruzzo, as www.abruzzopropertyitaly.com
elsewhere in Italy, the quality of www.abruzzoreality.com
building work and craftsmanship is www.abruzzoruralproperty.com
usually very high.

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¤250,000-¤500,000 ¤250,000-¤500,000
CASA VOSTRA CASA TESORO
A big (240sqm) comfortable, beautifully located and lovingly restored An opportunity to treasure… Casa Tesoro. Restored 1870s farmhouse
stone farmhouse with all amenities. Its owners live there full-time and it with big views, minutes from the elegant town of Servigliano. Just
shows. You feel instantly welcome in its spacious open plan layout. The 35 minutes to the beach, 35 minutes to the mountains. 3 bedrooms,
house delivers 4 or 5 bedrooms depending on your needs. Lovely views 3 bathrooms, swimming pool and terraces. Excellent rental history.
and close to the town of Loro Piceno. The 10x5m pool has a deep end and Immaculately maintained by the current owner. Now outstanding value
postcard-like panoramic views. Have it all with full day sun coverage and a for money at €329,000.
classic loggia to provide welcome shade. The plot boasts 30-plus olive trees Price €329,000
and a variety of fruit trees. Casa Vostra is yours for just €480,000! Contact Kevin Gibney
Price €480,000 Contact Kevin Gibney ☎ +39 347 538 6668 ☎ +39 347 538 6668
info@propertyforsalemarche.com info@propertyforsalemarche.com
www.propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com
¤250,000-¤500,000 ¤100,000-¤250,000
CASA BELLAVALLE LA STORICA
Casa Bellavalle is a classic… Classic in terms of how it looks, how it Your chance to own a real piece of history. La Storica is a one-of-a-kind
was restored, the town that’s a short walk away and, of course, the property that dates all the way back to the 1400s. It’s that rare type of
amazing valley it overlooks. Casa Bellavalle is a right-sized house of property where you will feel connected to a house where you’re the latest
around 200sqm (of currently habitable space) that was restored keeping in a very long line of people who’ve called this place “casa”, or home. It’s
true to the character of the original farmhouse. The house currently has a simple 2-bedroom, 1-bathroom house with a very unusual form, replete
three bedrooms and there’s upside in the form of cantina space and an with garden and stone terrace, within comfortable walking distance to
outbuilding to restore. Privacy, peace and personality give Casa Bellavalle lively Sarnano, yet surrounded by peace, quiet and beautiful views. This
high marks for those seeking a classic, restored Marche farmhouse. is your very own piece of living history, and it becomes available at a very
Price €359,000 modest price.
Contact Kevin Gibney ☎ +39 347 538 6668 Price €139,000 Contact Kevin Gibney ☎ +39 347 538 6668
info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com

¤250,000-¤500,000 ¤1,500,000-¤1,750,000
CASA LUNGIARÜ VILLA, LAVENO-MOMBELLO
Apartment at 1,400m in the village of Longiarù (Lungiarü in Ladin) just Prestigious villa at Lago Maggiore near the centre of Laveno with lake view.
5km from the ski slopes of Kronplatz. Enjoying a beautiful view over the A beautiful Lombard villa from around 1900 completely renovated in 2000.
mountain slopes, this elegant apartment of 130sqm consists of a living Ground floor: entrance, living room with fireplace, open kitchen and dining
room with tiled stove, a kitchen, loft, two bedrooms, two bathrooms, two room, TV room, laundry room and bathroom with shower. First floor: three
balconies, basement and a garage. This apartment is arranged over the two large bedrooms, two with access to the balcony, a study and a bathroom.
top floors of a small building of only four units. It has central heating and Attic: bedroom with double bed. The property includes double garage,
is sold fully furnished. Ideal for those who love tranquility and contact swimming pool and a well-kept, sunny garden. Malpensa 40 mins, Milan
with nature in one of South Tyrol’s most beautiful valleys. 60 mins. Train station at Laveno 3 mins. The ferry at Laveno-Mombello
Price €500,000 guarantees access to the other shore of Lago Maggiore.
Contact ItaliaCasa % +39 339 101 9042 Price €1,700,000 Contact ItaliaCasa % +39 339 101 9042
info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net
£500,000-£750,000 £500,000-£750,000
VILLA VETERE VILLA AZZURRA
Ostra Vetere, Le Marche. Spacious, detached house restored to a high San Felici, Umbria. Villa Azzurra. Almost every room in this light and airy
standard in 2003. Near an authentic and cosy Italian town yet offering villa has spectacular views of the lake where Umbria meets Tuscany. Just
peace and privacy. Ground floor: entrance with stairs to upper floor, living a 5-minute walk to the lake and its beaches, bars and restaurants. This
room, bathroom, kitchen with covered terrace, utility room, detached stunning villa (200sqm over two floors) has 3 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms,
double carport with storage. First floor: hall, master bedroom with terrace, a lovely kitchen with breakfast bar, open plan sitting/dining room with
2 guest bedrooms, bathroom. 6.5 x 13.5m swimming pool. Landscaped balcony, which leads out into the generous panoramic loggia. There is
and fully fenced garden of 5,800sqm. 3 hectares of agricultural land. All also a second living room, store room and boiler room downstairs. The
technical facilities, including underfloor heating. Ancona airport is 30 landscaped garden (800sqm) is surrounded by beautiful olive groves
minutes away. A turn-key object for perfectionists! tumbling down to the lake. The garden also features an infinity pool.
Price €640,000 Contact ItaliaCasa % +39 339 101 9042 Price €570,000 Contact ItaliaCasa % +39 339 101 9042
info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net

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A S K I TA L I A !
QUESTIONS
This pasta and bean stew
is an Italian classic
& ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help with all your questions about Italy.
This month we find a favourite Neapolitan recipe, go cycling in
Italy and ask about Americans buying property there…
FAVOURITE RECIPE herbs, pancetta, chilli or sometimes a different
Q I’m looking for a recipe for pasta fazool.

We had it on holiday in Naples and it was
deliciously different! I have been online, but there
kind of bean. Here is our own version for you.
This recipe will serve four people and take
about an hour to prepare.
are so many interpretations. I thought you might
be able to help with a more authentic recipe. • 300g dried cannellini/borlotti beans, or
equivalent canned cannellini/borlotti beans
A Pasta fazool is the Neapolitan dialect

name for pasta e fagioli, the thick
pasta and bean soup popular all over
•
•
75g fatty pancetta or prosciutto (optional)
3 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 If using canned beans, drain and set aside. If
using dried beans, soak overnight in cold water,
Italy and which has a thousand different • 1 large carrot, chopped then drain and rinse. Boil quickly in water for
interpretations! There are so many recipes • 1 large celery stick, chopped 10 minutes to remove the natural toxins, then
for this soup as each and every region of Italy • 1 litre good meat or vegetable stock drain and rinse again. Cover with fresh water and
seems to have its own take on it. Basically, • 150g small soup pasta simmer gently until tender, which will take about
however, the recipe is always more or less • sea salt and freshly milled black pepper 40 minutes.
the same, with a few variations such as the • extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling 2 Having prepared the beans, fry the pancetta and
addition of tomato purée, other vegetables, • Parmesan cheese for sprinkling olive oil with the onion, carrot and celery until
the vegetables are all soft. Add the beans and stir
thoroughly. Add the stock and simmer slowly until
Image © Alex Moling
the beans are almost falling apart. Add the pasta

and cook until tender.
3 Season to taste and serve warm, drizzled with a
little extra-virgin olive oil and with a light
sprinkling of freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Amanda Robinson, Italia! Magazine
CYCLING HOLIDAYS
Q We are a couple of keen (but not ‘sporty’)
cyclists who would like to cycle in Italy on
holiday, both around and outside cities, but so far
we have been put off by the prospect of having to
cope with the high mountains in the country and
also by fears our friends have sown about how
dangerous Italian roads can be. Would you advise
You simply wouldn’t be
able to get here by car
cycling there? And if so, how do you think we
should go about it?
THIS MONTH’S EXPERTS
ITALIA! ITALIA!
Amanda Robinson, our editor, Jon Palmer, our sub-editor,
has a wealth of experience in worked on cycling magazines
preparing for and dealing with for several years in the 2000s
travelling in Italy, and enjoying the local food! Though and has made two cycling trips to Italy this year. He gave
she is kept busy with the magazine she still makes regular up his car in 2010 and is currently looking to purchase an
trips to the Peninsula. Email Amanda with your queries at e-bike, to make life easier for himself. Email Jon with your
amanda.robinson@anthem-publishing.com queries at jon.palmer@anthem-publishing.com

A S K I TA L I A !
A I certainly wouldn’t advise, for example,

trying to tackle the main thoroughfares RESIDENTIAL PROPERTY IN ITALY ITALIA!
legal
of Rome on a bicycle on your first day there.
That would be mad. Even the locals don’t do
that. You’ll see bikes in Rome in the smaller
Q Do you have to be a citizen of Italy or the EU in order to own residential
property in Italy? If not, what “status” must a person hold in order to own
such property? How does a US citizen obtain such status?
expert
backstreets in the older parts of the city, but I
can’t recall seeing anyone trying to negotiate
Mussolini’s main roads on two wheels (unless
A Generally speaking, entitlement to purchase residential properties in
Italy is recognized to citizens of countries that allow Italian citizens to
invest in real estate properties in their territory.
those two wheels had a 150cc engine between While this entitlement is automatically recognized to citizens of EU Member
them – and even that looks a bit scary to me). states and of EEA Countries (Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway), it also originates
Florence is a little different – perhaps from other factors such as bilateral agreements between Italy and other countries in
because it doesn’t have as many main roads in matters promoting and protecting investments.
the city centre; and there are MoBike sharing Non-European citizens wishing to travel to Italy (and generally in the Schengen
schemes there, and in Milan, Turin, Bologna Area) must apply for a short-term Schengen tourist visa. Depending on the visa
and other northern cities (https://mobike.com). issued they may be allowed to enter once or multiple times and stay for no longer
Cities like Mantova, Ferrara and Verona, lying than three months/90 days within a given six-month period.
as they do on the flatlands of the Po Valley, Under the current applicable rules, US citizens who spend more than three
would be ideal places to set out from to explore months in Italy each year are considered residents. This includes people visiting Italy
the countryside – and indeed there’s a very for work or those wishing to visit the country for a longer period.
good network extending north from Verona As regards tax liabilities strictly connected to the purchase of a property in Italy,
to Lake Garda and the Valpolicella (www. these apply to all private individuals and corporate entities entitled to invest in real
veronagardabike.com). estate property in Italy, regardless of whether their country of origin is an EU member.
I went there this summer, for the second The current applicable stamp duty rate is 9 per cent of the official value of the
time (I was there five years ago), and the property for non-resident buyers and 2 per cent of the official value of the property
network is developing well. There’s now a real for resident buyers who purchase the property as their main home. When the
initiative, especially across the north of Italy, to purchase is subject to VAT instead, the applicable rates are 10 per cent of the price
make cycling friendly, fun and accessible to all, for non-resident buyers and 4 per cent for resident buyers who wish to purchase the
locals and visitors alike. property as their “main home”.
As for road safety, I haven’t felt more Laura Protti, LEP Law
vulnerable in Italy than in the UK (though
the fact that you’re travelling on the other side
Americans are
of the road, on roads you don’t know, perhaps entitled to buy
makes you more careful) but in general (and a home in Italy,
this is just my impression) while Italian road just as Italians
traffic can seem more chaotic, there’s not as are entitled to
much aggression; people don’t seem to be in so buy a home in the
much of a hurry. The things to watch out for are United States
distracted drivers and people not respecting
your priority.
As for the mountains, you have two options:
avoid going to the mountains; or get an e-bike.
You can do that through Verona Garda Bike, and
EMAIL
there’s another very good system in Alta Badia – US WITH YOUR
which is of course about as mountainous as you QUESTIONS:
italia@anthem-
can get (www.altabadia.org). It’s in places like this publishing.com
or write to us at our
where you understand just how well a bike will usual address on
get you to places you would otherwise not have page 6.
access to. (Read more in a forthcoming issue.)
Jon Palmer, Italia! Magazine
Laura Protti is the founder of

LEP Law. She is dual-qualified as
an Italian avvocato and English
solicitor, and specialises in
assisting British and Italian clients with matters relating
to Italian law. Visit her website at www.leplaw.co.uk for
more information.

NEXT MONTH IN
ITALIA!
FESTIVE ITALY
Travel, recipe and gift inspiration for a truly Italian Christmas
ROAD TRIP FROM ROME KRAMPUS PARADE

Discover Lazio’s prettiest villages A South Tyrol tradition
CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE PLUS Property and legal advice for
travellers and homebuyers, recipes,
Presents for friends and family what’s on, your photos and more…
Want to guarantee your next issue of Italia! and save money? Then turn to page 30 to subscribe
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FLIGHT GUIDE EMAIL
US WITH YOUR
Our indispensable guide to Italy’s main international AIRPORT TIPS:
● italia@anthem-
airports: where they are and, most importantly, how 2
●
3
publishing.com,
or write to us at our
to get from them to where you are really going… ●
5
usual address on
page 6
1 ROME
●
6
to Porta Nuova; in the summer, they
www.adr.it go up to Lake Garda. There is a fourth
●
4
Rome-Fiumicino, aka Leonardo international airport at Trieste.
da Vinci, is Italy’s busiest airport ●
11
by far, though with facilities like 4 TUSCANY & UMBRIA

touchscreen information terminals www.pisa-airport.com
it’s all negotiable. It is linked to the www.aeroporto.firenze.it
central railway station, Termini, by www.airport.umbria.it ●
1
the ‘Leonardo Express’. Returns depart Pisa’s ‘Galileo Galilei’ Airport is the
from track 24 (buy tickets before main point of arrival for visitors not ●
7
you get to the platform or they’re only to Pisa but also to Florence.
●
10
more expensive). Terminal B is for There’s a shuttle train into Pisa, from
international flights; Terminal C for where you can get a train to Florence ●
9
transatlantic. The Terravision shuttle after you’ve seen the Leaning Tower.
bus is cheaper but takes twice as long. But, if you’re dead intent on heading
Ciampino, which in the days of straight for the Renaissance City, why ●
12
Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn was not just jump on a bus? Buy tickets
the city’s main airport, also has regular at the Information Desk (leave the
flights to the UK and is closer to town, arrivals hall and turn right).
though there is no rail link. There is Alternatively, you can (for a price)
talk of a third airport. fly straight into Florence from London ●
8
City. Further south, San Francesco

2 MILAN d’Assisi Airport lands you smack in the
www.airportmalpensa.com centre of Umbria, Italy’s ‘Green Heart’.
www.orioaeroporto.it
www.milanolinate-airport.com 5 PIEDMONT & LIGURIA and Alibus as ways of getting into flights in summer than there are in
Milan already has three airports, if you www.aeroportoditorino.it town – though the taxi ride along the winter. In high season, book ahead.
count Orio al Serio, which is actually www.airport.genova.it tangenziale is much more fun. Your
just outside Bergamo, about 45km from A train will take you from Turin-Caselle driver will offer a fixed rate for any 10 PUGLIA
Milan. But even Bergamo has frequent Airport to Dora Railway Station in 20 main destination. Easyjet has a new www.aeroportidipuglia.it
coach services into Milan; these take minutes. There are buses too, but the route for 2018 from Belfast. Bari and Brindisi are both largely
about an hour and cost only around €5 train is cheaper and faster. Buy tickets domestic airports, though there are
per person each way. After Fiumicino, from the Ricevitoria in the arrival hall. 8 SICILY regular connections with the UK. These
these are Italy’s next three busiest Genoa ‘Cristoforo Colombo’ Airport is www.aeroporto.catania.it can, however, be in high demand,
airports, and there are year-round built on an artificial peninsula to the www.palermo-airport.com especially in season, so book ahead.
direct links to cities all over Europe west of the city centre. Until this year www.aeroportodicomiso.eu Public transport to and from both
and, from Malpensa, to the USA. Stansted (Ryanair) and Gatwick (BA) Catania-Fontanarossa, aka Vincenzo airports can be a bit patchy.
were your only options, but Easyjet has Bellini, is Sicily’s busiest airport. A
3 VENICE & THE VENETO announced new routes for 2018 from shuttle bus takes foot passengers into 11 LE MARCHE, ABRUZZO & MOLISE
www.veniceairport.it Bristol, Luton and Manchester. Catania, while most hire cars head for www.aeroportomarche.it
www.trevisoairport.it the nearby A19 autostrada, which links www.abruzzoairport.com
www.aeroportoverona.it 6 EMILIA-ROMAGNA Catania with Palermo. Italy’s scenic east coast is still not very
www.aeroporto.fvg.it www.bologna-airport.it Falcone-Borsellino is a capital city well served by international airlines.
Venice Marco Polo connects to cities www.parma-airport.it airport with a provincial feel an hour From the UK, your only options used
across Europe and, seasonally, to the The Marconi Express monorail is still by shuttle bus from Palermo’s Quattro to be Ryanair from Stansted to Ancona
USA. From the airport, ATVO (www. under construction. Meanwhile, the Canti; Easyjet has new routes for 2018 or Pescara. This year there are two new
atvo.it) runs non-stop shuttles to Aerobus-BLQ shuttle bus (www.aerobus. from Liverpool and Luton. Comiso has routes: Stansted to Rimini with Ryanair,
Piazzale Roma. The ACTV bus (www. bo.it) takes 20 minutes to reach recently been converted from military and Gatwick to Ancona with Easyjet.
actv.it) and the Alilaguna boat (www. Bologna’s central railway station. use to serve Sicily’s southeast.
alilaguna.it) stop along the way. For Emilia-Romagna’s second airport 12 CALABRIA & BASILICATA
water taxis, see the airport website. is at Parma. Your shuttle bus service 9 SARDINIA www.lameziaairport.it
Venice’s second airport is at Treviso. here is provided by Andromeda (www. www.aeroportodialghero.it If you thought the people of Le
An ATVO from here takes 70 minutes. andromedasbus.it). www.cagliari-airport.com Marche were poorly catered for with
Verona Villafranca, aka Valerio www.olbiaairport.com international air connections, spare
Catullo, is two hours by train from 7 NAPLES Sardinia is served by three a thought for Calabria – or, for that
Venice, but is really for people with www.aeroportodinapoli.it international airports, at Alghero, matter, Basilicata. To get to Lamezia
more Shakespearean pursuits… ATV‘s The publicly-run Azienda Napoletana Cagliari and Olbia. What they all have Terme, we have no choice but to first
Aerobus 199 (www.atv.verona.it) runs Mobilità (www.anm.it) offers bus 3S in common is that there are a lot more head for lovely London Stansted.

THE FINAL WORD
DRIVE #01
ITALIA! FIAT 500
CINQUECENTO
Tiny, iconic, cheap to run and
chic, this is the cheeky small
city car everyone loves…
Sixty years ago,
T
few would have
expected this hink of those classic
diminutive city car
to have survived 1950s Italian street scenes
so long. Practical, and inevitably the image
cheap and instantly that springs to mind will
recognisable, include the quintessential Fiat city
small is definitely
beautiful!
car: the iconic 500.
Designed by Dante Giacosa
and launched as the Nuova 500 in
mid 1957, as the successor to the
cute 500 Topolino (little mouse),
this little city car measuring only
2.97 metres from nose to tail could
accommodate Pappa, Mamma, two
bambini and their luggage. The
design included a simple fabric
sunshine roof – not as a luxury but
to save on metal!
Originally powered by a 479cc
two-stroke, air-cooled engine and
with ‘suicide doors’, the 500 is
considered one of the first purpose-
built city cars. Spares could even be
bought at the local corner shop!
Produced between 1957 and
1975, the tiny car changed little
from initial concept to final run-
out, although the suicide doors
were dropped for safety reasons
and there was a modest increase
in horsepower. The only downside
at the time was with the car’s
popularity, which came at the
expense of a good slice of the Italian
motorbike industry.
Firmly cemented as part of
today’s classic car scene, a clean,
original 500 of any vintage will
command a decent price, with
avid interest. Find a well cared for,
rust-free example and enjoy the
simple, modest thrills of motoring,
seemingly long forgotten with
today’s modern equivalents. It won’t
even take much garage space!

curated tours for the culturally curious®
Jan van Eyck to Hieronymus The Dutch Golden Age in The Pre-Raphaelites and
Bosch: Early Netherlandish Amsterdam, Haarlem the Arts & Crafts Movement
Magnificence, 12-15 March and The Hague, in the Cotswolds and
2019 from £1,185pp. Single 26-30 March 2019 from Beyond, 3-7 April 2019
supplement £190 with £1,775pp. £200 single from £1,250pp. £150 single
Georgina Trevelyan-Clark supplement. supplement.
This tour takes in the most magnificent of early The Dutch Golden Age was one of the most This tour will visit some of the finest examples of
Netherlandish artworks; the Ghent altarpiece. exciting and intensely creative periods in the artworks produced by the Pre-Raphaelites, the
The van der Paele altarpiece, Memling’s St history of art. It was a time of unprecedented Arts and Crafts and the Aesthetic movement,
John triptych and the diptych of Maarten change; socially, economically and culturally. including paintings, houses, textiles and stained
Nieuwenhove. Artworks by other early Flemish This tour starts with lunch cruise on a private glass. Some of the places visited include
masters, Jan van Eyck, Petrus Christus, Rogier boat along Amsterdam’s canals. We visit the Owlpen Manor, Rodmarton, , Wightwick Manor,
van der Weyden, Dieric Bouts and Hieronymus Rijksmuseum to see work by artists including The Oxford Union, The Wilson Cheltenham, The
Bosch will be seen in the museums and churches Rembrandt, Frans Hals and Vermeer; the Ashmoleum, and the Birmingham Museum and
of Bruges, Ghent and Brussels. Stay at the 4 star Rembrandt House and the Frans Hals museum. Art Gallery.
Hotel Acacia in Bruges.
Jewels of Northern Tuscany Glasgow & Edinburgh: Paris: Impressions of a City,

from Pisa to Prato, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, 5-8 May 2019 from
12-16 April 2019 from The Glasgow Boys & The £1,295pp. £155 single
£1,695. £200 single Gluepots, 30 April - 4 May supplement.
supplement. 2019 from £1,275pp. Single
supplement £175.
Lucca, Pistoia and Prato lie liked jewelled links in This tour will include trips to see the This four-day tour to Paris and Giverny provides
a chain between Pisa and Florence. All three have architectural gems of Charles Rennie Mackintosh significant insight into French Impressionism
fine churches, palaces and houses that provide us and eclectic artworks and designs produced by and the painters themselves, including Monet,
with a cohesive survey of styles and developments the Glasgow School. It will also feature iconic Pissarro, Manet, Degas and Renoir. We view their
from the Romanesque to the late Renaissance. Scottish artworks, for example, Raeburn’s art in Paris’ outstanding museums and galleries;
Accommodation is in a 4-star hotel within the ‘Skating Minister’ in Edinburgh, and key hidden gems such as the Musée de l’Orangerie. A
medieval walls of Lucca. European paintings such as Salvador Dali’s visit to Monet’s house and gardens at Giverny is
‘Christ of St. John of the Cross’. a special highlight.
Madrid: The Art and Brescia & Bergamo, 4-8 Verona Opera & Art,
Architecture of the Spanish June 2019 from £1,595. 26-30 June 2019
Capital, 20-25 May 2019 £175 single supplement. with Clare Ford-Wille
with Thomas Abbott from from £2,625. Single
£1,995. Single supplement supplement is £250
£200.
Madrid is renowned for its rich repositories of The northern Lombard cities of Bergamo and The atmospheric setting of the Arena di Verona
European art, including the Prado Museum’s Brescia were fought over by the two mighty plays host to an annual opera festival harking
works by Goya, Velázquez and other Spanish powers of northern Italy; Milan and Venice, back to 1913 when an opera was held to celebrate
masters. The heart of old Hapsburg Madrid is with Venice emerging triumphant. Bergamo’s the centenary of Verdi’s birth. We will attend
the portico-lined Plaza Mayor, and nearby is the Accademia Carrara houses 1,800 paintings three operas during our 5-day visit to Verona;
baroque Royal Palace and Armoury displaying from the 15th to the 19th centuries by artists Aida, La Traviata and Il Trovatore. During the
historic weaponry, including that of Charles such Raphael, Bellini, Botticelli, Canaletto, and day, we will explore the impact the early rulers
V. A day is spent in Toledo, the “Imperial City” Pisanello. Brescia’s historic centre is full of of Verona had on the city, from Roman times
for having been the main venue of the court of impressive monuments: one of the oldest Roman through to Venetian.
Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor. sites in Italy, the Capitolium.
Book now or request a brochure.

Tel: 0800 086 9778 or email enquiries@sapienzatravel.com
www.sapienzatravel.com

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ITALIA!

Issue 168 November 2018 £4.99 NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com

TRAVEL CULTURE PROPERTY FOOD WINE PEOPLE

Discover Lecce, Italy’s ‘Florence of the South’,

THE PERFECT CITY ESCAPE

quiet backwaters of Venice

THE UK’S AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY 9 771744 796085

Welcome! We’re holding onto those sunny days

Lingotto building in Turin and explore Castello, one of

Amanda Robinson Editor

PS Planning a trip to Tuscany this year? Our brand-new

132-page Tuscany and Florence Guide 2018 (£9.99 incl p&p)

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

November 2018 ITALIA! 3

the Lingotto building in Turin. 75 DRINK ITALIA!

36 the shores of Lake Como, Villa Balbiano is a

4 ITALIA! November 2018

p46 LAKE COMO

MORE ITALIA! ON THE COVER

November 2018 ITALIA! 5

PUBLISHER Sally FitzGerald

PRIZE DRAW TERMS AND CONDITIONS

All content copyright Anthem Publishing

November 2018 ITALIA! 7

THIS MONTH’S WINNER

Susan Perry, Lucca, Italy

8 ITALIA! November 2018

Joseph York, Northampton

Paul Whittle, Woking, Surrey

November 2018 ITALIA! 9

Florence bans street eating Artemisia

Five reasons to visit 2

10 ITALIA! November 2018

We asked our Facebook followers their

November subscription offer –

Lake images © iStock unless otherwise stated

November 2018 ITALIA! 11

THIS MONTH Going up,

Blog of the month for Italy too: Rome

1508 and will be shown alongside more of Da Vinci’s remarkable

12 ITALIA! November 2018

THIS MONTH Italia! recommends

News & Views A deluxe photography week in

Roast of the town?

PARLIAMO ITALIANO ASKING THE WAY

Gioacchino Rossini was not just a peerless composer

14 ITALIA! November 2018

ORDER NOW anthem-publishing.com/backissues

My favourite THIS MONTH

November 2018 ITALIA! 17

The ‘Path of the Gods’ – Il Sentiero degli

18 ITALIA! November 2018

20 ITALIA! November 2018

THE FLORENCE OF THE SOUTH

November 2018 ITALIA! 21

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

22 ITALIA! November 2018

VICO DEL GUSTO 9 •

turns into an incredible pink after sunset

November 2018 ITALIA! 23

Not far from Punta Palascia

Dancing tarantella in Taranto Ceramic souvenirs The Two Sisters

24 ITALIA! November 2018