Stitch

Prepared By :

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir

ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013)
Department : Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh
©right
 Stitch:

Stitch:
Stitch is a Unit or Loop in a seam. Which is produced by three principle Inter looping,
Intra looping, Inter lacing.

Inter looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of another thread.

Intra looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of same thread.

Inter Lacing: One thread passes over another thread.

Stitch:
 Stitch types of designation

Textile stitch types-classification and terminology, stitches are catalogued into six classes (as
per BS3870/ASTM D-6193/ISO 4915:1991). The international and standardization uses the
identical numbering.

Stitch quality
Stitch quality is measured with stitch size (stitch length, width, and depth) tension, sequence,
elongation, elasticity, resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance, abrasive strength.

Class 100:
is chain stitch type, is formed with one or more needle threads introduced from one side of
the material only.
 chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled;
 particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.
 Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching.
Class 200:
is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the material to the
other in successive needle penetrations.
 a slow process and need huge manpower to finish bulk order.
 Used for handwork.
 Stitch types of designation

Class 300:
is a lock stitch type, is formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of
the material, interlacing with an under thread
 supplied from a bobbin on the other side.
 low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion resistance
 Poor elasticity, non ravel
 limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread.
 for seams requiring stretch.

Class 400:
is multi thread chain stitch type, is formed with two/more groups of threads having general
characteristic of interlacing interloping of the loops of the two groups.
 non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to cause seam pucker due to
structural jamming
 good seam stretch
 does not need to wind bobbin
 lower resistance to runback and have increased bulk under the seam
Stitch classes
Stitch classes are designated and identified by the first digit of a “3 digit numeral system”.
Type of stitch within each class are designated and identified by 2nd and 3rd digit.
 Stitch types of designation

Class 500:
is over lock over edge stitch type, is formed with one or more needles and/or
loopier threads with at least one thread passing round the edge of the material
being sewn.
 Excellent stretchable good recovery
 Seam or edge neatening
 suitable for many types of fabric
 subject to fraying or slippage.

Class 600:
is formed with two or more groups of threads, has for a general characteristic that
two groups of thread cover surfaces of the material.
 High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, Bulk, Fast
machine speed
 No need of Bobbin
 Greater thread consumption
 Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be used to join
two raw edges, suitable for knitted garments.
 Types of Stitch:

Types of Stitch:

1. Stitch Class- 100 (Single thread chain stitch).

2. Stitch Class- 200 (Hand Stitch).

3. Stitch Class- 300 (Lock Stitch).

4. Stitch Class- 400 (Multi thread chain stitch).

5. Stitch Class- 500 (Over lock stitch).

6. Stitch Class- 600 (Covering chain stitch).

 Stitch Class-100 (Single thread chain stitch):

Stitch Class-100(Single thread chain stitch):

1. In this stitch -one loop passing through another loop of same thread.
2. Security of this seam is poor/not satisfactory.
3. Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch.
4. It is also used blind stitch purpose.

Subclass:
Stitch Class 103 (Blind Stitch); use in Heming.
Stitch Class 103 (Blind Stitch); use in Heming.

Usages:
Hemming, button attaching, button holing, gathering and temporary positioning of
garment component and purpose.
 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-100

Sub-Class- 101:

Uses: It is used for blasting (temporary stitching). e.g. Blazer components

joining before final sewing to cooperate sewing.

Sub-Class-103: Blind Stitch.

Feature:
One side is invisible and other side is like chain.

Use: Bottom hemming of dress pants.

 Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch)
Stitch Class-200(Hand Stitch):
 This stitch is produced for longer length sewing.
 Use for costly garments.
 Need more time and skilled operator.

Sub-Classes:
Sub-Class-202: This type of stitch is formed by hand.
Sub-Class-209: This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’.

Uses: Lapel of Blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc.

Saddle Stitch: A special type of stitch which is formed by Pique Stitch Machine using
Thick thread. It is used in Cowboy Jeans.
 Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch)

This type of stitch is formed with one thread. It is a machine made version of
traditional hand stitching sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch.
 Stitch Class-300 ( Lock Stitch):

Stitch Class-300(Lock Stitch):

1. Both Sides are same.
2. Less extensibility.
3. Bobbin capacity is less.
4. High Security.
5. It requires two types of sewing thread.
6. More compact.
7. It is widely used in garments factory.

Subclass: 301, 304.

Usages:
Lock stitch is extensively used for joining fabrics collar, cuff, pocket, facing etc. Top
stitching is used for button holing, attaching, blind stitching etc.
 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-300

Sub-Class-301:
Use: Top stitching in garments.

Sub-Class-304:
Uses: Elastic attaching, lace attaching etc.
 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-300

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one

needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B). A
loop of thread (A) is passed through the material
and interlaced with thread (B). Thread (A) is then
pulled back so that the interlacing is midway
between surfaces of the material or materials
being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1
ratio of needle to bobbin thread.

The 304 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Lockstitch. To produce the
zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed. This type of stitch is
formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B). A loop of thread
(A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B). Thread (A) is then pulled
back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material or materials being
sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.
 Stitch Class- 400 (Multithread chain stitch)

Stitch Class- 400(Multithread chain stitch):

1. Security is higher than lock stitch.
2. One or more thread is used.
3. One group is called upper thread and another group is called looper thread
(under thread).
4. Higher production than lock stitch due to use large package.
5. It is widely use for making knitted garments.

Hemming: Hem is the end of the garment and the process of making hem is called
hemming
 Stitch Class- 400 (Multithread chain stitch)

Subclass:
401(1n+1l); Use in Jens.
406(2n+2l); Use in T-Shirt (Heming). (Flat Lock).
407(3n+1l) Use in Brief’s. (Flat Lock).

Usages:
This type of stitches is used foe sewing lace, braid and elastic. Stitch type-401 is used
in jeans and trouser.
 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400

401: 1Needle + 1Looper Upper side

Uses: Inseam and out seam of jeans.

Bottom side

406: 2Needle + 1Looper

Uses: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt.

407: 3Needle + 1Looper

Uses: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt &

Polo-shirt.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400

This type of stitch is formed with two threads:

one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B).
Loops of thread (A) are passed through the
material and interlaced and interlooped with
loops of thread (B). These interloopings are
drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply
of the material being sewn.

The 404 stitch formation is commonly referred to

as the Zig-Zag Chainstitch. Its formation is similar
to the 401stitch. To produce the zig-zag
appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the
material is fed. This type of stitch is formed with
two threads: one needle thread (A) and one
looper thread (B). Loops of thread (A) are passed
through the material and interlaced and
interlooped with loops of thread (B). These
interloopings are drawn up against the underside
of the bottom ply of the material being sewn.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400

This type of stitch is formed with three

threads: two needle threads (A & A1) and
one looper thread (B). Loops of the needle
threads (A & A1) are passed through the
material and interlaced and interlooped with
loops of thread (B). These interloopings are
then drawn against the underside of the
material being sewn.

This type of stitch is formed with fourthreads:

three needle threads (A, A1 & A2) and one
looper thread (B). Loops of the needle threads
(A, A1 & A2) are passed through the material
and interlaced and interlooped with loops of
thread (B). These interloopings are then
drawn against the underside of the material
being sewn.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 400

This type of stitch is formed using five threads;

two needle threads (A & A1), two looper
threads (B & B1) and one Top covering thread
(C). This stitch is two rows of 401 two thread
chainstitch with a top covering thread laid on
the upper surface of the material being sewn.
Loops of the threads (A & A1) are passed
through the material and interlaced and
interlooped with loops of threads (B & B1). The
top covering thread (C) is laid between and
around the needle threads on the surface of
the material The interloopings of the neeedle
and looper threads are drawn up against the
underside of the bottom ply of the material
being sewn.
 Stitch Class- 500 (Over Lock Stitch)
Stitch Class- 500(Over Lock Stitch):
1. To prevent fraying out of loss yarn.
2. Use to make knitted garments.
3. Also use for decorative purpose.

Subclass:
British Standard:
503(1n+1l); Use for edging.
504(1n+2l); Use for edging & light seaming.
514(2n+2l); Use edging & Heavy seaming.

American Standard: Combination Stitch

515(401 + 503); Use for edging & sewing.
516(401 + 504); Use for edging & sewing.

Usages: This stitch type can be used to make a decorative edge.

 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500
Sub-Classes:

503: 1Needle + 1Looper

Use: Only for edging.

504: 1Needle + 2Looper

Uses: For edging & light seaming.

514: 1Needle + 2Looper

Uses: For edging & heavy seaming.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed with two threads:

one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B).
Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through
the material and brought to the edge where they
are interlooped with thread (B). The loops of
thread (B) are extended from this interlooping to
the point of needle penetration of the next stitch
and there are interlooped with thread (A).

This type of stitch is formed with three threads:

one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread
(B), and one upper looper thread (C). Loops of the
needle thread (A) are passed through the material
and
interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of
penetration on the underside of the material.
The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge
of the material and there interlooped with loops of
the upper looper thread (C).
 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed with three threads:

one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread
(B), and one upper looper thread (C). Loops of
the needle thread (A) are passed through the
material and interlooped with loops of thread
(B) at the point of penetration on the underside
of the material.
The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped
with loops of the upper looper thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are extended from this
interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, they are
interlooped with thread (A).
Stitch type 505 is very similar to stitch type 504. The main difference is that in stitch type
505 the lower looper thread (B) Is tighter and the needle thread (A) is looser than in stitch
type 504. Stitch type 505 is a three thread version of stitch type 503.
 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two

needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B)
and an upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle
threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and
interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of
penetration on the underside of the material.
The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with
loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the
needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped with thread (A).

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two

needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B)
and an upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle
threads (A & a1) are passed through the material
and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point
of penetration on the underside of the material. The
loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the
material and there interlooped with loops of thread
(C).
Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the
next stitch and there, interlooped with threads (A & A1).
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing

one row of stitch 401, using threads (A & B), a
specified distance from the edge of the material, and
one row of stitch type 503 using threads (A1 & B1) on
the edge of the material.
 Stitch Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)

Stitch Class-600(Covering Chain Stitch):

1. At least three (1n+2l) set of thread are use.
2. This stitch is use in undergarments to attach lace, braid or elastic.
3. This Stitch is also use to join side by side of fabric without increasing
thickness.

Subclass:
602; Use for decorative purpose.
605; Use for decorative purpose.
406; Use for T-Shirt/ Polo shirt heading.

Usages:
This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid elasticity.
 Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-600

Sub-Classe-602: 2Needle + 2Looper

Use: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt & decorative purpose.

Sub-Classe-605: 3Needle + 2Looper

Uses: For decorative purpose & elastic attaching of under garments.

Sub-Classe-606: 4Needle + 5Looper

Uses: Not used in our country.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-600

This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads:

two needle threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper
thread (B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of
thread (A) and (A1) are passed through loops
of thread (C) already cast on the surface of
the material, and then through the material
where they shall be interlooped with loops of
thread (B) on the underside.

This type of stitch is formed with 5 threads: three

needle threads (A), (A1) & (A2) ; one looper
thread (B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of
thread (A), (A1) and (A2) are passed through loops
of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the
material, and then through the material where
they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B)
on the underside.
Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-600

This type of stitch is formed with six threads: four

needle threads (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3); one
looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C).
Loops of thread (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3) are
passed through loops of thread (C) already cast
on the surface of the material, and then through
the material where they shall be interlooped with
loops of thread (B) on the underside.
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