CHAPTER 9

COSMETICS

Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body. They are generally
mixtures of chemical compounds, some being derived from natural sources, many being synthetic.
In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics, defines cosmetics as
"intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering
the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions." This broad definition includes, as well,
any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. All cosmetics are formulated as solids,
semi-solids or liquids. Their formula design is very similar to drug dosage forms.
Classification of cosmetics
1. Skin cosmetics
2. Hair cosmetics
3. Nails cosmetics
4. Oral Hygiene Cosmetics

LIPSTICKS
Lipsticks also termed as lip cosmetics are widely used by women. Lipsticks are basically dispersions of
coloring matter in a base consisting of a suitable blend of oils, fats, and waxes suitably perfumed and
flavored, moulded in the form of a stick and enclosed in a case (Figure 9.1). A lipstick should have the
following characteristics
1. It should cover the lips adequately with some gloss and last for long time.
2. It should make the lips soft
3. The film must adhere firmly to the lips without being brittle and tacky.
4. It should have high retention of color intensity without any change in shade
5. It should be completely free from grittiness and be non-drying
6. It should be non-irritating to the skin of lips
Figure 9.1: Lipsticks

Formulae of Lipstick
Ingredients %w/w
Carnauba wax 3-4
Candelilla wax 4-6
Ozokerite wax 3-4
Beeswax 4-6
Lanolin 6-8
Castor oil 40-60
Isopropyl myristate 4-6
Halogenated fluorosceins 1-3
Lake colors 15-19
Propyl-p-hydroxy benzoate 0.1-0.5
Perfume 0.6-0.8

Method of Preparation
1. The lake colors are first dispersed by mixing with suitable quantity (as 25% w/w) of castor oil.
2. The color paste obtained is passed through a triple roll mill until it is smooth and free from
agglomerates and gritty particles. If titanium dioxide is used in the formula, the same is also made
into a paste similarly and mixed with the color mix.
3. The color mixture is then mixed with the bromo-acid mixture.
4. All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in order of increasing melting point. The
lower melting point fats and waxes are next melted together and mixed with colors and bromo
mixtures at the same temperature. This mixture is re-milled until perfectly smooth.
5. The preservative and antioxidant is dissolved in any remaining oil and added to the mix.
6. The high melting point waxes are now melted and added to the bulk at the same temperature.
7. The perfume is finally added and the mass stirred thoroughly but gently to avoid entrapment of air.
8. The mass should not be melted after the high melting point waxes have been added.
9. Gentle stirring is continued until the mass is homogeneous and it is then poured in lubricated moulds
(Flow Chart9.1)

Lake colors+ castor oil(25%o w/w)

mix them properly

color paste
passed through a triple roll mill lower melting point fats and waxes

mixed with bromo-acid mixture melted together

Mix them properly at same temperature.

Mixture is re-milled

Add preservative and antioxidant

(dissolved in any remaining oil)
Mix them properly
Add melted high melting point
wax’s
Apply gentle stirring

Pour it in lubricated moulds.

Flow Chart 9.1: Manufacturing process of Lipsticks

COLD CREAM
Cold cream is water in oil type of emulsion. Cold cream is called cold cream because breaking up of
emulsion on application to skin leads to evaporation of water giving cooling effect. Cold cream is primarily
used to prevent excessive drying of skin. It has emollient action and prevents dehydration of skin. The key
chemical constituent of cold cream is bees wax (Figure 9.2)

Figure 9.2: Cold Cream

Bees wax, spermacitin, paraffin wax are used as thickening agent and also provide fatty acid soap formation
during the preparation of cold cream. Non-ionic and ionic emulsifiers are also used to supplement borax
bees wax emulsion adding increase flexibility and stability to emulsion.
Example of Emulsifiers that can be used alone or in combination are Sorbitol fatty acid esters and other co-
emulsifier that can be used are glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, phosphate fatty alcohols and
fatty alcohol sulphate.
Since this preparation contains both oil and water. It is susceptible to microbial attack. Hence a cold cream
preparation should also be preserved by adding preservatives (Table 9.1 & Flow chart 9.2)

Marketed Cold Cream products are

i. Pond’s Cold Cream
ii. Charmis Cold cream
iii. Nivea Cold Cream

Cold Cold Cold Cold Cold

Cream Cream Cream Cream Cream
Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5
Qty inQty inQty inQty inQty in
Ingredients
Gms Gms Gms Gms Gms
Bees wax 14 - 4 18 30
Cetyl alcohol 2 4 - - -
Stearyl alcohol 2 2 - - -
Mineral oil 53 53 18.5 60.5 46
Lecithin 2 - - - -
Borax 1 - 0.25 1 1
Water 26 20 37 - 6
Olive Oil - 8 20 - -
Lanolin - 4 37.5 - 6
Grycerylmonostearate- 1 - - -
Sodium
- 1 - -
lauralsulphate
Spermacitin - - 1 - -
Oleic acid - - - - 1
Triethanol amine - - - - 1
Stearic acid - - - - 6.5
Glycerin - - - 10 1
 Cold Cold Cold Cold Cold
Cream Cream Cream Cream Cream
Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5
Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity
Perfume
Sufficient Sufficient Sufficient Sufficient Sufficient
Methyl paraben 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18
Propyl paraben 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02

Table 9.1: Different formulas of making cold Cream

Triethanol amine Bees wax, lanolin, speramacitin wax,

Oleic acid, paraffin wax

Dissolve in water and heated to 70 o c Dissolve in mineral oil and heated to 70 o c

Aqueous phase of the cold cream oily phase of cold cream

Both the phases are mixed and stirred at 70 o c

Water in oil type of emulsion

Add perfume to above emulsion

Pack the finished product in suitable containers.

 Flow chart 9.2: Steps to Make Cold Cream

Method of Preparation
Step 1: Triethanol amine was weighed according to formula and dissolved in given quantity of water and
heated to 70 degree Celsius in a suitable pharmaceutical grade container. This would make the aqueous
phase of the cold cream.
Step 2: Bees wax, lanolin, speramacitin wax, oleic acid, paraffin wax are next weighed as per formula and
then dissolved in mineral oil and heated to 70 degree Celsius. This makes the oily phase of cold cream water
in oil emulsion.
Step 3: Now this is the most important step and requires experience and skill to execute. At 70 degree
Celsius, Both the phases are mixed and stirred to form water in oil type of emulsion. It is important to stir
continuously while adding aqueous phase to the oily phase to get stable water in oil emulsion. Keep stirring
till the temperature comes down to room temperature.
Step 4: Sufficient quantity of perfume is added before packing the finished product to suitable wide mouth
labeled containers.

ISOLATED KEY POINTS

 Cosmetics arise from a greek word kosmeticos which means adorn. If any material used for
beautification or improvement of appearance is known as cosmetics. In other words they may be
applied to skin , hair and nails for the purpose of covering colouring , softening , cleansing ,
nourishing , setting and protection.
 Classification of cosmetics Cosmetics Skin Hair Nail Hygenic Powder compact Creams lotion
colourants Hair remover, Hair conditioner Shampoos Hair dyes, lotion Eyelash (Mascaras) Eye brow
pencils Eyelid inside (Kohls) Face Powder Compact powder Body powder Prickly heat powder Cold
cream Vanishing cream All purpose cream Cleansing cream Foundation cream Emollient cream
Astringent lotion Lipsticks Rouges Nail lacquers Lacquer removers Nail polish Cuticle removers
DENTAL Powders Paste dentifrices Lotion Mouth wash BATH Soap bath
Skin is the heaviest single organ of the body combine with the mucosal lining of the respiratory,
digestive and urogenital tract. A square centimeter of skin covers 10 hair follicles, 12 nerves, 15
sebaceous gland, 100 sweat gland . PH of the skin varies from 4 -5.6
 Function of the skin: Protection from external stimuli like chemicals. light , heat and cold , radiation
It regulate the body temperature It controlling blood pressure It acts as a barrier for invasion of
various microorganism It has bactericidal, fungicidal activities due to presence of sebum secretion It
has important role in the synthesizes of Vit D3 – Calcitriol
 The Human Skin consist of mainly three layers i.e Epidermis, Dermis & Subcutaneous
  Epidermis It is multilayer It varies in thickness depends on cell size & area Soles ,palm – 0.8 mm
Eye lid -0.06mm The epidermis comprise 5 distinct layers Stratum corneum ( horny layer) Stratum
lucidum Stratum granulosum(granular layer) Stratum spinosum (prickly cell layer) Stratum
germinativum(basal layer)
 Stratum corneum : It consist of epidermal cells lipophilic nature The membrane provides about 10 -
15 layers of flattened keratinized dead cells It is 10 um when it is dry. But It can take up moisture up
to 15 -20 % When occlusive dressing / cream applied over the skin prevent the evaporation of water
It plays a role in controlling the percutaneous absorption of chemical substance
 Stratum lucidum: It is thin translucent layer Stratum granulosum : It is consist of keratin protein
Stratum spinosum : It consist of flattened polygonal cells Stratum germinativum : It consist of
melanocytes
 Dermis /corium It consist of dense network of structural protein fibres – collagen
Mucopolysaccharide –ground substance It is about 0.2-0.3mm thickness It contains blood
vessels,lymphatic vessels, nerve ending
 Sub cutaneous It consist of fat rich areolar tissue It is otherwise called as superficial fascia It is quite
elastic Large arteries and vein are present
 Lipgloss is a sheer form of lipstick that is in a liquid form.
 Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner, lip primer, and lip boosters. Lip
stains have a water or gel base and may contain alcohol to help the product stay on the lips. The idea
behind lip stains is to temporarily saturate the lips with a dye, rather than covering them with a
colored wax. Usually designed to be waterproof, the product may come with an applicator brush or
be applied with a finger.

PRACTICE QUESTIONS
LONG ANSWER TYPE QUESTIONS

Q1. What do you understand by the term cosmetics? Elaborate in detail about the applications of cosmetics
in the healthcare systems?
Q2What do you mean by the word “Lipsticks”? How you will prepare it. Write in detail about the
precautions taken while manufacturing Lipsticks?
Q3 Write the ideal formula to prepare the Lipsticks?
Q4What do you mean by the term “Cold creams”? Discuss its role in cosmetology.
Q5 Define Cold creams? Discuss its manufacturing process with the with the help of suitable flow charts.
Q6 Cold cream is o/w or w/o type emulsion? Explain with the formula.
Q7 How vanishing creams are different from cold creams?
Q8 Define shampoo? Explain its manufacturing process?
Q9 Discuss in brief
 a) Clear Liquid shampoo
b) Gel shampoos
c) Oil shampoos
d) Antiseptic/Antidandruff shampoo
Q10 Write in detail about the role of dentifrices?

SHORT ANSWER TYPE QUESTIONS

1. Substances which are intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions are called
as ……………………….
2. There are various layers of cells within the epidermis, the outermost layer of skin is called as
…………………………..
3. Vanishing cream are …………. type emulsion, As name indicates these creams get………………..
after applied and rubbed on to the skin.
4. …………………contain fragrance, but they also block the pores to stop the discharge of perspiration
while ………………..allows the release of perspiration, but prevents odor by combating it with
antiseptic agents, which kill odor-causing bacteria.
5. Hair ………………… are used after shampooing the hair, to render the hair more lustrous, easy to
comb, and free from static electricity when dry
6. Which of the following is false in context to function of skin
1. Protects the body against physical injury and microbes
2. Homeostasis
3. Provides protection from UV light.
4. Vitamin E synthesis and biotransformation of some chemicals.

7. Cold cream is

1. w/o emulsion
2. w/o/w emulsion
3. Provides protection from UV light.
4. Forms a dry layer on skin.

8. To remove the makeup and foundation bases cream used is

1. Vanishing cream
2. Cleansing cream
3. Moisturizer
4. Cold cream
9. Which of the following is not the function of hair
1. Hair on the head protects the scalp from ultraviolet light, cushion round the head and insulate the
skull.
2. Eyebrows protect the eye from small foreign particles and insects.
3. Body hair helps in bio chemical synthesis of vitamins..
4. The hairs, guarding the entrances to nostrils and external ear canals filter the air and help prevent the
entry of foreign Particles.

10. Which of the following is not an oral hygiene cosmetic

1. Dentifrices
2. Tooth Paste
3. Gargle
4. Mouth Wash

Answers
1- Cosmetics, 2- stratum corneum (or horny layer), 3- o/w, disappeared, 4-Antiperspirants, Deodorant, 5-
Conditioners, 6-4, 7-1, 8- 2, 9-3, 10-3