The Dish

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E DIS

STIRRING
THE POT
DOWN ON
THE FARM

From left: Sam McPherson, Potlikker Farm Cultivator; Zack Gowen, Owner of Potlikker Farm
and Georgia Sea Grill; and Tim Lensch, Executive Chef at Georgia Sea Grill

WORDS BY ANNA MARTIN


PHOTOS BY ELIOT VANOTTEREN that pay tribute to our core principles working on a South Georgia farm, Sam
of community and connection to one’s gained experience through his and his

Y
homeland paint a picture of who we wife’s organic produce cooperative,
ou are what you eat. We’ve
are as Southerners. It is upon this ground connecting him with Zack. Today, they
all heard the old adage
that the newest tradition was planted work together to fulfill Sam’s dreams of
that our bodies are made
on Blythe Island: Potlikker Farm. operating a farm and Zack’s desire to
up by what we consume.
bring locally sourced produce to Geor-
But we aren’t just what we
Sam McPherson, cultivator of Potlikker gia Sea Grill. Though in its early stages,
eat — we are where and by whom the
Farm, sustains our Southern culture in his the team at Potlikker is producing kale,
food is grown, too. It is becoming ever
production of local harvest that current- tomatoes, peppers, arugula, spinach,
more crucial to know where our food
ly supplies St. Simons Island’s Georgia lemongrass, rosemary, mint, Thai basil,
originates and its cultivation processes.
Sea Grill with the freshest ingredients. lettuce, and the popular Potlikker red
Further, we are how it is prepared: what
Inspired by summers spent working in his peas, a historically significant staple
ingredients and expertise are combined
great-grandfather’s garden in Nashville, crop. Marigolds and sunflowers adorn
for the end product. Finally, we are with
Georgia, Sam brings personal devotion Potlikker as well and can be found
whom we share our meals. From farm
and antiquity to the legacy of Potlikker beautifying tables at the Grill.
to kitchen and ultimately to the plate
Farm. “The idea is to use proven old-
presenting a fresh, refined meal upon
school techniques with a few modern The vision for Potlikker Farm is simple: to
which we toast in celebration with our
ideas to grow local, clean produce fill an underserved market with local,
neighbor, we are what we eat.
that has a huge significance to people clean, sustainable produce. Eventually,
It is an art and careful practice to take that love the food and traditions of the the goal is to sell to the public, donate
the Earth’s bountiful produce and cre- Golden Isles,” he says. to schools, and be involved with other
ate an edible masterpiece that inspires community-supported agricultural ven-
both the creator and consumer. This is Potlikker once operated as a vegetable tures. For now, Sam supplies Georgia
the story of Potlikker Farm and Georgia farm until about 40 years ago, when Sea Grill Executive Chef Tim Lensch,
Sea Grill. goat farming took its place. Fast forward under Zack’s direction, with fresh
to 2018: Georgia Sea Grill owner Zack ingredients that Tim combines with his
In the South, the staged develop- Gowen had just finished reading “The provisional expertise to create colorful,
ment of meal preparation has been a Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the delicious meals served nightly. Each
deep-rooted tradition: a lens to explore Modern South” by John T. Edge when, participant in this process, including the
Southern identity. To be part of the as he describes it, “a happy accident” guests that enjoy these culinary works
process, whether by farming, cooking, occurred. One week later, he discovered of art, can celebrate this expression of
or enjoying, is to understand our history the 6.5-acre lot on the Blythe Island street Southern heritage and take pride in
at a deeper level; not just of Southern named “Potlikker’s Place.” Sometimes the locally sourced, historically based
food, but the heritage and traditions we just need a sign. For Zack, this was it. cuisine found at Georgia Sea Grill. For
that stand as an exceptionally relevant here, there is no need to worry when
history of the South itself. The customs Along with skills he learned as a boy someone says, you are what you eat.

40 GOLDEN I S LES
Sam with Potlikker red peas

POTLIKKER
PEA SALAD
FROM GEORGIA SEA GRILL’S
EXECUTIVE CHEF TIM LENSCH
2 cups Potlikker red peas
3 Bay leaves
2 Tbsp. hot sauce, to taste
1 Tbsp. minced parsley 
1/2 cup small diced sweet onion
1 cup small diced green tomato,
peeled is optional
1/2 cup small diced red pepper
1 jalapeño minced without seeds
Juice from half a lemon
1 Tbsp. olive oil 
Salt and pepper to taste
Rinse the peas and place into a me-
dium-sized pot. Fill with water — you
want to cover the peas by about 2
inches. Salt the water to taste. Add
a shot or two of your favorite hot
sauce. Add 3 bay leaves. Using me-
dium high heat, bring to a boil. Once
at a boil, turn down to a simmer and
let cook until soft. Turn off the heat
once done and let them soak for
a half an hour. Drain, remove bay Antique Silver | Jewelry | Architectural Details | Furniture
leaves, cool, and mix with the rest of Porcelains | | Books | Etc.
ingredients. Serve over rice, fish, grits, 1601 Newcastle St, Brunswick, GA 31520 | 912 . 2 6 5 . 3 6 6 6 | Monday-Saturday 10-5
or anything else you can think of.
M A RCH / A P RI L 2019 41

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