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Repairing A Jura Nespresso Machine PDF
Repairing A Jura Nespresso Machine PDF
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Contents
Summary
My story
Buy or build an oval socket
Sources for Nespresso parts
Machine repair stories
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
Summary
My story
A few years ago my family bought me a basic Nespresso espresso machine, which is made by Jura in Switzerland.
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It uses little sealed coffee capsules like this one: The upside to the capsules that that they yield a very nice espresso shot,
with no skill required and no mess on the counter. The downside is that they are only available from Nespresso and as of this
writing cost US$0.55 each plus shipping.
We used the machine for a couple of years, generating a nice recurring revenue stream for Nestlé while making our morning lattes.
But over time the power button became recalcitrant. First it required two pushes to go on, then three pushes, then coaxing with a
pencil eraser, and this got ever worse until I was standing there for the better part of a minute pushing, pushing, pushing while
waiting for the DANGED (ahem) light to start blinking. Naturally it was out of warranty by then, and sending it away for repair
was almost as expensive as a new one. I actually eyeballed a new machine in some mall store where I noticed that the latest
Nespresso models have a simple toggle on-off switch, so I sorta suspect this power-button trouble happened on a lot of machines.
So off to the workbench, where I found that the machine's sides are held in place by four screws recessed about 1 inch. And the
screws have oval heads. I'd never seen anything like that before, and the security-driver kits at Sears had nothing to offer. The deep
recess meant a needle-nose plier would not work. I've never seen a consumer appliance protected this carefully.
A quick web search found a special tool on ebay for $40. Ouch! I didn't know if the machine's brain was bad or what, and $40
seemed like throwing good money after bad, so I let the machine sit on the bench.
A couple weeks (ok I admit it, it was months) later I found leftover capsules in the kitchen and posted a note to Craigslist for
someone to take 'em for free. I grumbled in my note about the funky oval-head screws and offered to give away the machine along
with the capsules.
Enter Dave H., a fellow New Jersey resident who responded to my post. His machine had mouse trouble (don't ask), but he made a
socket out of an old bolt! Look at this:
Even better, he sent me the socket!! Complete kindness to total strangers, I love Craigslist. His remanufactured bolt loosened the
screws on the very first try. The screws only go into plastic so they require very little force to remove. Here's the machine with the
side panel removed for easy access to the power button. The heater is in front (below the drip tray), and the pump is buried in the
middle.
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Here's a close-up of the super secret special swiss oval-head screw (in the middle). I put calipers on it and by comparing it with
drill bits estimate that the head is 1/8" at the narrowest and 5/32" at the widest. (Of course it's probably metric but I don't own
metric drill bits.) Anyhow just 1/32 inch difference is enough. The plain slotted screw I chose as a replacement is on the right.
Well, back to the original problem, turning on the machine. The power switch assembly consists of a small circuit board and a
molded silicon button. I loosened a bracket behind it (the screw required a Torx driver size T-10) and pulled out the circuit board
with the button. Here's a shot of the board and button:
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The inside of the button (showing) touches the circuit board when pressed, and springs back a few mm when released. There is no
clicky or other moving part on the circuit board, it only has two copper areas exposed, an outer area and a circular inner area (a bit
hard to see). Somehow the button completes a circuit when it touches the board. I'm not an EE at all (as has been made very clear to
me at work :-) but silicon conducts power?? The end of the button is black as if it were coated in carbon, maybe that's the secret.
The board didn't look cracked, so I resorted to the obvious: clean everything. I windexed the board and the end of the rubber button,
put them back in place .. and it worked again!! First touch turns on the machine. I was stunned. That's the happy ending.
If you have one of these machines with power button trouble, the hard part is getting the case open. In my machine the apparent
trouble was schmutz blocking a connection. Here's a side view of the bolt so you can get a better sense for the dimensions, along
with the wacky oval-head screw one more time.
Thanks again to Dave H. for making and sharing this little socket. He wouldn't even accept a pack of capsules for his trouble!
You can borrow a socket if you like. As you'll see below, various sockets have circled the globe! If you borrow one, you have to
send me a picture of your machine's guts for this page. :) If there's a queue, you must send it along within a few days. More
commonly there is no queue, which means you'll have to hang on to it for weeks until someone writes me.
You will also need a Torx driver size T-10, it should be easy to buy or borrow locally.
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Need a socket?
Buy a socket!
You can buy a tool to extract the oval-head screws on a Jura nespresso machine:
A 3.5 millimeter, 6 point socket may work. If you don't have a set with this size (I don't either, mine starts at 4mm), try this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26535-Precision-Driver-Metric/dp/B000O5ILYS/
A steel oval-head socket is about US$13 shipped, sold by Peter N, the Jura Capresso Doctor on eBay. This is the one I lend
out, and has been used successfully by many people:
http://myworld.ebay.com/juracapressodoctor
Peter N. fabricates his own steel sockets in Greece and sells them for about $10 on eBay:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav/item.view&id=291262252009&globalID=EBAY-US
1/4 inch bit for oval screw heads from Esprase in The Netherlands, €6.75 plus shipping:
http://www.esprase.nl/product_info.php?products_id=569
Oval Pan Head Security Screw Hand Driver, about US$12 plus $8 shipping. I have not seen this tool and cannot promise it's
the right size. If anyone buys one, please send me a picture.
http://newelectronx.com/proddetail.php?prod=oval-pan-head
Spanner bit (driver) size 10 at Amazon, about US$4 plus shipping, eligible for free shipping. A spanner bit is actually made
with two points for driving a security screw that has the matching two little holes on the screw head face. But the tool has a
gap between the points that's just about right for turning the Nespresso oval-head screw! See below for reports and pictures
about using a spanner bit to turn the oval-head screws.
http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-15442-Spanner-Screwdriver/dp/B000GAQE8Q/
Unfortunately the oval pan-head security screw bit is not supplied in any tool sets that I've found. For example, these sets from
Harbor Freight (links below) look promising, but Gregg L. checked them out in person and reports that the needed bit is not
included.
http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-security-bit-set-93388.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html
Build a socket!
If you already have your machine on the bench and don't feel like waiting for a tool to arrive in the mail, look below for some
advice on building a tool to turn the oval-head screws. Reusing a part from Ikea seems to be the easiest option.
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Need parts?
Peter N, the Jura Capresso Doctor, sells parts for Jura and Jura-Capresso machines, at present thru eBay. But since the
Nespresso machines are made by the same Swiss manufacturer (Eugster-Frismag) that makes the Jura, some of the parts like
internal O-rings may work for Nespresso machines too.
http://myworld.ebay.com/juracapressodoctor
Coffeemaker Spare Parts is a store in Kiefersfelden, Bavaria, Germany with an English-language web site. They sell
Nespresso repair parts and ship worldwide, but the shipping charges outside Germany are really high.
http://www.coffeemaker-spareparts.com/Spareparts-Nespresso:::60.html
Below I've gathered pictures and stories of machine repairs -- some successful, some not. Many machines were opened with a
socket that I've lent out. :)
If you prefer video over text, here's 15 minutes of explanation on opening and repairing a machine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDdAWKuCvhA
Update 30 July 2010: Dave's socket traveled to San Francisco, CA to help Thayne N. repair his Nespresso D90. Success!
Update 27 August 2010: The socket returned to SF, CA to help Jim C. fix a
loose wire in his Jura Ultra. Success number two!
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0:05 / 0:05
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Update 10 December 2010: First visit to England. Tom Q. in Basildon, Essex, UK used the socket to open his Siemens machine.
Unfortunately the fault was not in any obvious places like the switches and he was not able to repair it.
Update 18 December 2010: Back to the U.S., the socket visited Illinois, the Land of Lincoln, where Ivan B. used the socket to
open his Jura F60.
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Update 3 January 2011: Lost. :-( The USPS ripped the envelope that Ivan
used, and the original socket fell out somewhere on the way from Illinois to
Philadelphia. Ivan very generously offered to buy one of the Ebay guy's sockets
to keep this little community going.
Update 10 January 2011: Ivan replaced the home-brew socket that our beloved
USPS dropped on the floor with this shiny new one and sent it on to Philadelphia.
Update 14 January 2011: Sam G. in Philadelphia opened his C100 and began
searching for an elusive leak!
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Update 13 February 2011: First time in Portugal! Paulo P. pried open his machine
and polished away the poop that prevented his push buttons from working
properly! (Forgive me, Paulo :-)
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Update 28 February 2011: Second person in Portugal! Eduardo N. opened his machine
and sent me this picture.
Update 7 March 2011: Next stop was Spain, where Manuel L. in Madrid
reported finding some metal bits inside the socket that made it difficult to turn the
oval-head screws. After some cleanup he was able to open his machine and
diagnose a failed pump.
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Update 6 April 2011: Third visit to Portugal, where Adão C. confirmed that the
socket is a bit damaged but still functional. His machine had the same problem as
mine, and after some cleanup it worked again!
Update 1 June 2011: After nearly two months with no requests, David R. of
Chicago wrote me to ask for the socket. He sent me this picture and note: in about 10
minutes the machine was dis-assembled, cleaned, re-assembled!
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Update 14 June 2011: Second stop in Chicagoland to help Gabe S. open and repair
his D290 with excellent results. Gabe reports that he replaced the original screws
with #6 x 1/2 inch stainless-steel sheet metal screws.
I also realized
(rather belatedly,
after earning a
bruised thumb)
that the tool
works much
much better when
it is detached
from the key ring
and used with a
screwdriver
handle
attachment (the
blue object in the
photo). While the
key ring can
provide the
necessary torque
leverage, you
really need a
handle to provide
the needed
pressure to keep
the bit on the
screw head.
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Update 20 July 2011: Ralph ? wrote me from Cyberspace to say he successfully used a
#8 spanner bit to remove the screws in his machine. He reports:
the space in between the prongs on the bit make a very tight fit at exactly the
most narrow diameter of the oval. it takes several attempts, much slipping
off the rounded head, a very good sense of the axial center of the screw, and
a steady hand to get the sufficient friction to get the screw started.
Update 21 August 2011: Gregg L. of Hatfield, PA wrote me about his success with fixing his machine:
Appreciated your suggestions and pictures. Used the idea from Mico N. and drilled out an X-acto handle as described
using a number 31 drill bit with no vise, since I don't have one. Worked perfectly. The Harbor-Freight security bit set
did not have an oval head driver and the bi-slot bit did not work even with some filing. Did use the small Torx bit
from the set however to remove the top shield to make getting to the buttons easier. Had a right hand button that
would not activate. Took it apart cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs. Reassembled it with
4x1/2 zinc pan head screws (they are a better fit than 6x1/2) from Lowes ($1.25), button now works and wife is
happy again.
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Update 28 August 2011: George X. in Shanghai, China opened his machine with
the socket but had some trouble with the internal fasteners.
Update 24 September 2011: Lawrence Sheed of Shanghai sent me a link to detailed instructions on his blog for opening a
Nespresso Cube (Krups XN5005). The oval security screws on that machine are not set deep, and he was able to turn them with
pliers. Check out his pictures!
http://www.computersolutions.cn/blog/2011/09/repairing-a-nespresso-cube-krups-xn5005/
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Update 21 November 2011: Manny C. in Princeton, TX opened his Capresso to fix a leaky hose.
Let the folks know that all the advice was great and it worked
perfectly. Machine fixed in exactly 10 minutes. We replaced the
funny screws with the ones suggested by the blog and now our
cat Frankie can get her morning coffee (without it she's a
MONSTER).
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Update 7 December 2011: Noel L. from Puerto Rico reports the following experience:
I also noticed that if you pinch the soft button from the outside, and pull it out at the same time, it starts working
again. Somehow, accumulated dirt or sulfate is removed by pinching and pulling the button. This is really convenient
especially if you are in a hurry and do not have time to uncover and repair the machine. I hope this helps some
Nespresso coffee lovers out there.
Today, I would like to update the same problem with another experience that will help many friends fix their clogged
buttons without breaking apart the machine:
When pinching the buttons do not do the trick, if you spray a small amount of Silicone Spray on the power on and
cup buttons, while having the machine at a horizontal position, this liquid will penetrate and reactivate the electric
connection again and the machine will start working properly. Silicone acts like a cleaner and conductor and it dries
very quickly. I use it also for my stubborn iphone home button and it works better than alcohol plus lasts longer.
Although I don't think the brand matters, the one I used is Liquid Wrench.
Unfortunately the aluminium one is pretty chewed up and won't work. The brass one will not fit either as there is a
ridge around all of the screws on my machine and the brass tool is too wide.
Update 27 December 2011: Ricardo R. in Mafra, Portugal wrote me about trying to open his Nespresso xn2001:
Although i've already tried to open the Nespresso, but the alluminium socket is very damaged...and the other doesn't
fit...
I told Ricardo to keep these sockets since they don't seem to be of any further use to anyone.
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Peter was kind enough to send me a pair of sockets and screws. I'll
send one to the next person who joins the queue.
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Hello Chris
Just got the tools from Mr. Arena and in 5 minutes got my
problem solve :). Please confirm that it's to send it back to you
or you have someone new in queu.
Thanks a lot
Bruno
Bruno also pointed out that the circuit board can be removed without
pulling out the rubber button.
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Babka and Duka could not use their Nesspresso machine. The
symptom was the power on and off button took more and more
pressure to turn on the machine. The fix was to wipe both
pieces of the switch with a clean Q-tip with 91% alcohol. I
wiped both on/off and start/stop since I had it open. I replaced
all 8 screws with stainless steel #5 Phillips Pan Head screws
1/2inch long. They can be ordered from McMaster.com if they
are not available locally.
I did indeed receive it; opened the machine and only had to
clean the sensor with a piece of cloth and it worked again.
Changed the screws for normal ones and we're very happy
with it.
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For the screws in the shallow holes I just used a pair of small
pliers, and was able to grip the screw heads. I wasn't able to fit
the pliers into the deeper holes, and had to use an extractor.
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Update 1 May 2012: Fausto P. a.k.a. MrWho from Coimbra, Portugal wrote me to report:
I'd like to thank you for sharing your tips on opening up a Jura (here it's a Krups) Nespresso Machine. I succeeded
using the melted BIC pen trick - worked perfectly, cleaned the power button and closed it up again with normal
philips screws. Not bad for a €10 machine I bought from a friend who replaced it with a new machine.
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Everything seems in working order now and my wife can finally turn
the machine on by herself.
Update 12 November 2012: Enzo from Turin, Italy reported his success
with repairing a malfunctioning machine by replacing bad capacitors. He
writes:
The replaced capacitors are the two "blue boxes" in the picture.
The value of each varies from machine to machine (every make
use a different one... here in Italy we can have KRUPS and De
Longhi machine) but is printed on every capacitor. In my case
(KRUPS XN 2105) one was 220nF (nano Farads) and the other
was 680nF. Pay attention to use the same kind of capacitors (X2
MKP 275 VAC).
Update 24 November 2012: Susy P. in Vevang, Norway opened her machine only to discover that the pump had failed, and the
price of the new part was ridiculous. She reports that she jumped at a deal from Nescafe - buy 15 boxes of capsules and the
machine is free! I've never seen that sort of offer in the U.S. Anyhow, no picture (yet) from Susy.
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This way I managed to get a stiffer socket that has the exactly
shape of the screw head (picture attached).
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First of all thank you for your effort in keeping this blog up.
Being only semi-handy I look to the net for advice like this.
Great job. I returned from a few months away to some
absolutely disgusting coffee and a moldy smell in my machine.
Descaled twice, flushed with boiling water and baking soda,
boiling water and vinegar and lots more boiling water. No
luck. Two calls to Nespresso (total of 40 minutes on hold) to
be told there was nothing to do with a 4 year old machine but
replace it. Ordered a new one. Got it. Still curious about my
mold problem so I decided that even if I had to break it open I
wanted to discover the problem.
The melted pen worked on all but one last screw so I broke the
last side panel off and started unscrewing everything I saw.
When I yanked the front nozzle off I found the problem.
YUK!!! Not very happy about the last few coffees I drank
anyway. YUK, YUK!! I'm certainly not an engineer but as far
as I could tell from looking at the construction of the machine
there should not be any water where I found the mold.
You can call this one a success since I got it open (beat the evil
oval screws) and discovered the problem. This was more of an
autopsy rather than an attempted repair. I can't imagine how
long the hold time with Nespresso will be to make a
complaint, considering I waited 20 minutes to buy a new $200
machine. By the way, if you are replacing an older machine
they give you a $49 discount. Only found this out on the
second call- the first person didn't offer it.
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I go:
I'm not counting the failed tests I've done, but what inspired
Mr. Arenas explained as he tried to do, with a screw IKEA, but
it was great for my screws.
The only problem is that as the tube is 5 mm, the oval is left is
6mm x 3.25 mm, but just press a little "side" to use it and that's
it. I send you a picture for you to understand better. Ideally,
keep trying until you gradually adjust
Not quite perfect but made in minutes and above .... works.
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It would be great if you let at least one of the tools circulate so that
we can see how long-lived the steel version is. I expect it to last a
lot longer than the aluminum version.
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this problem?
Can I buy a
part? In the
mean time I
experimented
with a few
epoxys and
couldn't get
enough
strength. I took
a washer and
epoxied it to the
face of the
cracked/repaired
connector. It
seems to have
given me
enough
strength. I still
may order a
new part as
security. I also
used different
screws to put
the machine
back together.
My repair job
on the coupling
didn't work but
Peter the
nespresso
doctor sent me a
new part and
my machine is
working great.
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I found your blog a few days ago while looking for information on
how to open Nespresso machines ; and especially their very odd
screws. For the record, I tried the bic trick that worked for 2 but my
hapiness stopped when I melted th pencil badly in the third cavity. I
then decided to for something I can easily do with what I had. I came
up with another variant of the tool (I attached the picture, as I've not
seen something similar). It's made out of a standard bit , nearly plain
octogonal, in which I grinded a slot of about 3mm (damn, you're
probably in inches so the shorter dim. of the oval).
A quick word to let you know that my machine is up and running again
:-) Thanks to your blog and especially to Alvaro whose capacitors are
doing a great job !!
Update 21 August 2013: Ray K. from Denville, NJ wrote to ask for advice on
diagnosing his machine's pumping problem:
I have a D300 which I put into storage in my cellar about 5 years ago
when I got my first Keurig. Did not have room for both on my counter.
So, being an engineer I was determined to get inside the machine and
see what was wrong. I was really stumped by these oval looking
screws and searched high and low on the internet for help. I finally
came across your blog after googling "nespresso tools." At last --
some enlightenment as to how to open the machine. Bought the key-
ring device from Neil of ebay for $12.95. It worked great.
I ordered the machine and now am stumped. All connections are solid
and the hoses are tight, but the machine will not draw water from the
reservoir. It stays in the first few inches of the clear feed tube. There
are lots of hoses, some for the stem operation.
Update 11 September 2013: Craig S. from Rimini, Italy sent along his
success story about repairing his machine's pumping problem:
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Update 23 September 2013: Jonathan L. from Los Angeles used the steel
socket to open his D290, but a solution to its blinking lights eluded him:
Update 26 September 2013: Markus H. from Mainz, Germany sent in this advice about repairing Nespresso buttons:
I find it worth mentioning, that The black paint at the back of the silicon buttons is graphite. I used graphite spray to
renew this and the buttons worked like a charm again.
Update 10 October 2013: Frank van B. from the Netherlands sent me a note about sources for information and parts:
I found your Jura blog when I did a search for a Krups Nespresso eachine and I enjoyed reading the whole thread
from 2010 on, it's great and much appreciated ! Since the patent has expired the Nespresso cup machines have
become more popular in Europe as now coffee cups from other brands are available and often way more cheap as the
Nespresso ones, some of these newbie coffee cups do very well here.
I'm from the Netherlands and find it a challenge to solve problems with goods that seem to be designed to be replaced
after (minor) errors and the Nespresso coffee machines are one of these, a repair costs at least 75 euro and at that
same price (or even less) a new machine can be ordered online, what a waste of money and good materials that is as
they mostly end up in the rubbish !
During my searches for parts and manuals I found a couple of interesting sites and for the blog this English source is
a good start for parts and a workshop manual that few have access to:
http://www.buyspares.co.uk/krups/coffee-makers/catalogue.pl?shop=krups&path=561166
Regarding the inferior capacitors these are the correct links at the moment:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-X2-Polyproplene-safety-capacitor-0-22uF-275VAC-
K-/221206003779?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3380e7c043
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-X2-Polyproplene-safety-capacitor-0-68uF-
275V-/221205996384?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3380e7a360
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See picture. That little glass bead is the actual sensor. It was
potted with some epoxy into the brass housing, which was
then threaded into the thermoblock/heater unit in the machine.
It looked like the epoxy had expanded over time, and in doing
so had broken one of the wires to the sensor. I guess the way
the controller works is if it doesn't 'see' a temperature change -
hard to do with out a working sensor - it shuts the unit down
and blinks an error code.
Update 22 November 2013: After six weeks en route the steel socket
finally reached Ricardo V. in São Paulo, Brazil who wrote:
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Update 23 May 2014: Sasha L. from Israel wrote me to ask about a part:
Thank you for repairing blog of JURA coffee maker. I bought this Oval head
key Repair Tool ant it is perfect and cheap:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oval-head-key-Repair-Tool-for-Jura-Krups-AEG-
Nespresso-/181305075389?pt=Small_Kitchen_Appliances_US&
hash=item2a369fe6bd
maybe you can help me with buying this part which I can't find... or maybe
you can tell me which wire goes to the switch and which to the led?
Update 25 May 2014: Onno M. from The Netherlands dropped me a line about his experience repairing his recalcitrant
Nespresso buttons -- remarkably similar to mine :) -- and I'm happy to add a link.
http://www.glowbug.nl/oddsNends/KrupsXN2001.html
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Update 3 June 2014: Dušan M. from Brno, Czech Republic completely reworked his ES 80
machine's switches and sent me details about the result.
Now i had free hands to make anything.... I going back in to years 1990's and
make the Nespresso with "hand steering ". Only new pieces :
On-Off button for 1. heat circuit with thermostat 90 C
Control light
On-Off button for Pump/Kofee
On-Off buton for 2. heat circuit with 120 C Thermostat for steam
Update 23 June 2014: Brenda C. from Chicago reported success with her repair of a
Citiz+Milk:
First of all, thank you for posting all of your repair stories to your blog. I would
have never attempted to fix my machine without reading everyone else's
experiences. I can't stress enough my appreciation.
Here's my update:
A friend of mine was going to toss out her Citiz+Milk machine and I took it
instead to see if I could do something with it. The espresso machine made noise
like it was working but it was leaking from the bottom of the machine. Nothing
was coming through the top. I started my project to locate the leak by trying to
take it apart. I found your blog immediately when I attempted to get those evil
oval screws off to no avail. Wow. Was that annoying.
I used the bic pen trick and three pens later I got all the screws off. I
manhandled the rest of the machine to get to the guts of it and found 2 parts
totally cracked, the "elbow fluid connector" AND the "air valve apd cpl mount"
(the air valve is pictured below). Here is some good news and bad news: Both
parts are available in the UK via buyspares.co.uk and partsmaster.co.uk (yea!),
the elbow is available for shipping to the USA, HOWEVER the airvalve is
ONLY available for purchase by EUROPEANS (wha???). Seriously. In my
case, I have a friend in the UK, shipped the parts to her and she brought them
with her to the US on her last trip home and delivered them to me. (Yes, I know
this is impossible for most people, but I wanted to share this story anyway). I
tried to find a work around to get something shipped over here, but I never
found an option other than the "I have a friend in europe" scenario.
I replaced the parts and threw out the other ones, but still had a leak. Turns out
that each part has an o-ring at the connection (some red, some black) and I
didn't see one of them attached on the damaged part and I threw it away without
checking closely. That was pretty dumb on my part. Instead of paying $15 to
ship an o-ring from the UK, or wait until Christmas for my friend to come back
home, I found a replacement at HomeDepot (pictured below). HomeDepot did
not have silicone o-rings (I think silicone o-rings are red and are more high
temperature resistant), but so far the regular black rubber is doing the job on the
elbow connection, also, the size should be metric, but the imperial ones fit fine
and are not leaking. Lastly the #4 sheet metal screws to replace the Evil Ovals
works very well also.
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To sum up:
Pro-tip: Hold onto all damaged parts until you are absolutely sure you're done
with them - inspect all damaged elements for additional working parts that you
might need.
I was just looking through your blog on deconstructing Nespresso machines, and just thought I'd let you know that I'd
had great success using a Dremel with a thin cutting wheel, and just converting the screws into flatheads. It works
well, and allows for reuse without having to replace the screws. If thin enough a file could also be used.
Update 9 August 2014: Demetrios B. from Cleveland, Ohio sent this question that I was not able to answer:
I have a Nespresso D290 machine that has served me admirably for several years. 3 days ago the yellow light began
blinking and the machine would no longer brew. After several attempts of pushing the on and brew buttons
simultaneously I was able to get the machine to power on and I descaled the machine. It worked for the rest of the
day but was making an intermittent clicking noise. I turned the machine off, but have not been able to get the
blinking yellow light to stop. .. I have partially disassembled the machine and the capacitors look good. I would like
to test the thermal fuses but coul use a real disassembly manual. Can you help?
Update 27 August 2014: Luke R. in Auckland, New Zealand wrote to borrow the socket and get capacitors:
I have stumbled across your blog on the Jura made nespresso coffee machine! I have a flashing light issue where the
lights blink continuously and I can not get the machine to respond to anything ... Now I can't for the life of me
remove these screws and I was wondering if there was one of tools floating about that could be posted to me here in
New Zealand? ... Also Avaro mentioned he had some capacitors available, how could I get in contact with him?
Ricardo V. sent the socket and Alvaro G. sent capacitors, thanks guys for your quick responses! After a long, long trip down
under, on 28 September Luke wrote again:
The socket arrived this weekend! I have now opened my machine and much to my delight their was no water damage
in sight! ... I am now trying to work out the issue, I have 2 thoughts, possible air block in the system ( but then again
this wouldn't cause my lights to blink) ... Orr the capacitors, so I will await their arrival and get them changed!
This is perfect timing, after a long wait on parts I finally fixed up my nespresso this Sunday and all is back together! I
shall post the tool on to Chris D in the UK tomorrow morning and will also send over my before and after shots of
my fix to you Chris L! I will also include the two capacitors that i replaced on my nespresso machine with similar
flashing light issue in a hope that this speeds up Chris D's repair. (very easy soldering jobby).
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Update 29 August 2014: Vic from cyberspace shared instructions and pictures
for fashioning a tool from an X-acto knife handle:
1. Use an xacto knife with a slim handle. It must fit into the
screw hole.
2. If the tip of the handle is curved, file it down flat. It helps to
use a vise. See photo.
3. Drill a 5/32 in. hole in the center of the handle--mine was not
exactly in the center; no matter. It helps to use a C-clamp and
a drill press. See photo.
4. Use a hammer and tap lightly on one side of the hole and
then the other to change the shape of the hole from a circle to
an oval. See photo.
5. Test the tool. If the fit is not right keep hammering a little at
a time until the tool fits. Don't try to adjust too much at one
time.
6. Be sure to remove the blade before using the tool.
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Thank you very much for all the information on your blog
about repairing a Nespresso machine. I had the same power
button problem, and successfully fixed it, with the help read on
your site. I wanted to fix it right now, so could not wait. My
solution was using a cocktail spoon I found in my kitchen right
after I gave up fixing it right away, and some flat wire. It
worked for me, and I could fix the power button. You need to
press a bit hard while using it, but it worked for me.
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Update 6 October 2014: Pedro A. of Lisbon, Portugal sent his thanks for
helping him repair his Nespresso XN2001:
I could not let my day finish without thanking you for the
Nespresso oval screws hack :)
Five minutes (or less) to get to know where the silicone button
had gone (literally gone...) after half an hour trying to access
the screws with pliers.
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I want to thank you for your special blog about repairing a nespresso
machine. I live in Thessaloniki, Greece and I own a tool and die
machine shop.
In the mean time I searched the eBay tool and saw that it is for sale
and that maybe I could sell mine back. My design is simpler and more
compact. Although I own a cnc in my machine shop I made it by hand.
So I realized that I could beat the price and sell it a little cheaper.
After a few days someone ordered my tool! And then I made a few
more that they are also sold!
Update 19 November 2014: Bob B. of Toulouse, France wrote me that he used instructions sent by Eros to fix a similar problem
on his machine:
Dear Chris,
I red your blog about Nespresso repair, and I wanted to thank you, and thank Eros (from Italy), for the post of
October 13th 2014, explaining with great detail sthe way to repair an insidious leakage due to ageing of the
mechanism, with a part of a used capsule.
I applied the procedure, and it works ! Again, many thanks, you are great !
Best regards,
Bob
Update 10 December 2014: Boldizsar BENCSATH of Budapest, Hungary wrote me about his success in replacing the capacitors
on his Nespresso C100 machine:
Hello Chris,
boldi
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Update 13 December 2014: Chris D. of Surrey, UK borrowed the steel socket and
repaired a failed solder joint on his machine's circuit board. He reports:
Hi Chris,
Just to say that thanks to your blog and the trusty globe-trotting socket tool, I
have now fixed my Krupps XN 2100 Nespresso machine.
Once opened and the covers removed from the main PCB logic board, it was
fairly clear to me what the problem was. There had at some point been a small
leak (a one off I suspect) and coffee had rolled down the LED/button wires
and caused a bunch of corrosion on the PCB and solder joints. Once
diagnosed as "dry-joints" (hence the intermittent problem initially), I colour
coded the wires RGB with a marker, de-soldered them from the PCB and
proceeded to use some isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds to clean up the
corrosion and connectors on board and the wires themselves.
Once this was all done I simply re-soldered the wires back to the PCB,
making sure that there was an ample flow of solder in the joints so as to
ensure a good connection; put everything back together and hey presto, all in
ship-shape condition again and tested multiple times to make sure I had got
both the diagnosis and the fix correct.
I've attached a zip file with a few photos showing the corroded joints for your
blog, and I have the socket tool here with a bunch of the old screws and the
capacitors that Luke sent me from New Zealand as I did not use them. All is
ready to be shipped either back to you or to the next person in need; let me
know what you want me to do.
Chris D.
Happy New Year! I wanted to write you after reading your blog about the
oval screws in the Jura Nespresso machines. I hope you'll find my story
interesting and unique...
... all we had to do was bring half a dozen tubes of Nespresso capsules. As
soon as I had a free moment, I plugged in the machine, filled the reservoir,
opened the lever knowing I would have to prime the pump, and fully
expecting it to work, pressed the button... Almost all the normal sounds
occurred, except no water came out. I pressed it again, moving the lever,
checking the reservoir was seated properly, etc. After numerous
adjustments, checking etc. I was dismayed and dejected that I couldn't get it
to work.
So I figured I would try to repair it by taking it apart (no usual problem for
me). I was fearful that sitting at this beach hotel for 11 months, the pump or
valves were rusted or some seals had failed. But figured I would try anyway.
I happened to have a hex key set and seeing a few Torx screws figured I
could take it apart. But as you know that doesn't get you far. I looked at the
oval-head screws and figured those couldn't be screws - they must be rivets!
Damn Nespresso (Jura)! I guess they figured the machines are cheap enough
and force you to buy new rather than repair. I then decided to google
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What a goldmine! I was astonished to find that I could actually remove the
(previously thought of as) rivets/screws! However I needed a tool today!
Ordering one, machining one, getting one passed on were all non-options as
I am on vacation with almost no tools and there is no home cheapo here or
anything like it. However, reading about the bic pen, I thought, well maybe
I'll give it a shot. Turns out the little shop up the road actually sold them so I
bought 3 (knowing it took one guy 3 tries). I was hoping that it was a stuck
check valve and not something more serious and figured if I could get the
cover off it was worth a try.
Suffice it to say I melted a pen, set it on a screw to get the shape and bingo,
IT WORKED! Like a charm! I was incredulous and ecstatic. I then had to
figure out how to get a bamboo skewer (in a small town in Mexico). I
looked around our hotel room, and after trying a few small screwdrivers and
such that I keep in my dop kit, realized that the ink insert I had removed
from the pen was the perfect size tool!
Inserted it gently, replaced the hose, put the tank on, plugged it in, and
BINGO, water started flowing out the dispenser.
Suffice it to say, my wife repeated that's why she married me, and we now
have espresso again every morning. Thanks to you. Didn't even need to ask
you to have Chris D. forward the tool to me.
I've attached a photo in case you want to use my story (hopefully edited for
length) showing that all you need for this repair is a 70-cent pen and some
fire. One thing to note that might be helpful to future readers using this
method is that the pen needs to be melted quite sufficiently that the orifice
melts small or closed and is well melted and you have to hold it onto a
screw without moving until it sets hard (probably 15 whole seconds). If you
do that, the shape of the inset/socket (as you can see from the photo) will be
pretty perfect.
"Here you are, it's fixed, just try not to keep it on for long, just
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in case"
Wrongo! Like the other Krups tales of woe, there was a pair of oval-
head tamper proof screws at the bottom of 3/8" diameter, 1 inch deep
recesses in the base plate of my coffee maker interfering with my
simple repair. I googled for "Krups coffee maker oval screws", and I
was fortunate enough to find your blog. Before trying to machine a
metal tool, I decided to give the melted plastic pen technique a whirl.
Finding one from my local credit union, I held the end in front of a
MAPP torch flame. After a few seconds I could see a nice blob of
molten plastic at the end of the pen. Plunging this into one of the bores
till it bottomed out, I waited a few minutes, then tried turning the
plastic barrel. I have to admit, I was not optimistic. I was surprised,
then elated, when I easily turned the first screw out. Separating the
screw from my pen tool, I easily removed the second screw. FYI ...
using a caliper, I measured the screw head ovals to be 5 mm x 5.7 mm
I couldn't find this switch any place in other than lots of 50 or more, so
I settled on a $7 GSW-42 Gardner Bender switch that I could Amazon
Prime to my home. It took a little whittling with a utility knife on the
hole in order to make the new switch fit. I also had to cut off the three
3/16" spade connectors in my coffee maker and replace them with 1/4"
connectors. Just got through putting the whole thing back together
with, of course, two new sheet metal screws! Have attached pictures of
the plastic tool with defeated tamper-proof screws, and the inside of
the coffee maker with the original switch.
I noticed that you've added a Jan 2015 entry to your blog, so reasoned
that you may still be taking on new material. If you judge my little
narrative to be of any value, please feel free to add. I've spent more
effort on this repair than the coffee maker may have been worth, but it
was gratifying to extend the life of a perfectly usable appliance in an
otherwise disposable society.
Update 10 January 2015: Nick G in Hong Kong sent a short note about his machine problem & repair:
Thanks to your great blog, I managed to fix my Nespresso Essenza in a matter of 20 minutes. I had the same power
switch problem that you had.
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Fabricated my oval screw tool from a Bic biro (only one required), opened up the sides, switch out, windex the
contacts and reinstate. Good as new.
Update 14 January 2015: Nicoloas P. of Valeyres-sous-Montagny, Switzerland wrote me with advice on building a socket to turn
oval-head screws:
I am not sure if the related blog contains this simple way to 'build' a socket for the oval screws:
Looking for a pipe or cylinder to be transformed to have an oval end, I eventually got across a 'pipe' with a M5 thread
cut into it. This might be called 'bush', 'screw collar' or 'threaded sleeve'.
Update 17 January 2015: Kevin L. of Newcastle, NSW, Australia gave details of his battle with
roaches in his friend's Nespresso machine:
Whilst tearing my hair out trying to find a way of opening a friend's leaking Nespresso
Citiz, I stumbled upon your blog.
The melted ball-pen trick worked magically, but as you say, melt it down to a round blob
at the end to get a strong and solid tool.
The cause of the leak became rapidly clear. Our local roaches, A. periplaneta and B.
germanica, love the mouth-feel of silicone rubber, and if they get water at the same time,
even better! Did I mention they also like warm and dark?
As a local repairman said to me, they are what keep us in business, because the ones that
don't chew pipes and insulation short out the electrics.
The cause of the problem is clear, you can even see the chew marks.
As these are all at the low pressure end, I'll replace the damaged segments. All else is
OK.
Have repairing essenza machines for some time now, but I just found
your page, sadly not earlier.
Mainly I got essenzas with the broken elbow joints, and essenza
automatics because of the blown capacitors, but I figured out those
myself. Also I have found earlier the spanner bit opening for those
f#@&#&n oval heads (but I always change them to standard screws).
This time I write you because of a 'failure' because I got the damn
thing to work, but another two error surfaced, and it is really
interesting, just wanted the community to know.
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and anything looks good. Until today when I arrived home to see a
huge amount of water flowing from the machine. No broken joints,
and based from the amount of the water it must be on the low-pressure
side. Thought of the flowrate meter, because it was wet and yes, it was
not that watertight. After disassembly (rotate the head) I changed the
old O-ring and used some piston grease to be sure. It was good, but
water keeped to flow so I drained all the water from the machine
putted it to a clean surface and puted the full watertank back, and voila
(see the last picture) the compressor was leaking from the low pressure
joint, and from under the plastic joint. Nothing to see up till now, but it
can't be worse, I will somehow dismantle the thing to see what can be
done.
Update 31 January 2015: Harry E. of Amersfoort, The Netherlands had to replace fuses AND
capacitors to get the caffeine flowing again, he writes:
I got the Krups XN2125 defective from someone. It was dead as "a pier" and
nothing helped. After a struggle of 1 hour the machine was open en indeed one
thermic fuse was blow, after replacing it (€3,50) there was again life to discover but
suddenly (after 2 coffee) the two switches were blinking rapidly as it shouldn't be.
After replacing the 2 capacitors (680nF and 220nF, €4,50) the Nespresso works
again as it should be.
I did replace all the damned screws with normal 3.5x12mm and now no problems
anymore with opening and closing.
The picture shows the fuse location, i used a connect block to test if it was really
the fault fuse.
Update 1 February 2015: Jaco van der L. of The Netherlands reported a new
source for an oval-head tool, and also success with fixing a leak (but I couldn't
show all of his pictures):
[The source] is a Dutch site, but I don't think that will be an issue:
http://www.esprase.nl/product_info.php?products_id=569
Including delivery cost (within Holland) it was 8,88 euro.
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Update 1 February 2015: John P. of Athens, Greece also repaired a faulty thermal fuse:
I own a Krups XN2120 for a few years. During a cold day of the winter, I
opened my machine and saw the lights fading strangely. After 2 minutes my
machine died.
I decided to try and open it up before throwing it away, so I did some googling
while trying to open the tricky screws, so I managed to craft a tool by drilling a
bolt, took me about 2 hours or so.
Then I got my electrical testing screwdriver and found out that the power of the
machine stopped right after the thermal fuses. After searching about the fuses I
found your blog, so, I called a few shops with electronic equipment and found
the fuses at a very cheap price (10 pcs - 5.90€) and replaced both of them.
Finally, I replaced the screws with typical screws [3mm diameter, 16mm
length] for future cases!
I'm sending you two pictures with the fuses locations on the boiler, and the
screws I used to replace the originals.
Update 9 February 2015: Cam B. of western Canada sent an update about his 2013 repair adventure which also relied on the
kindness of strangers:
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I finally had someone in the UK purchase the temperature sensor I needed from a UK website and ship it to me. The
website wouldn't ship to North America, so this random internet user from Reddit's /r/coffee userbase was kind
enough to purchase it and ship it on. So I installed that part, and powered the unit back up, and... it still wouldn't
make coffee! So then I dug into the power flow to see what was going on, and discovered the thermofuse on top of
the boiler was open. I replaced that with a $3 part from a local service supply. Put everything back in place and
switched it on. Success! It filled the boiler, heated the water, and pumped it out of the discharge port. A coffee soon
followed. The unit has been running flawlessly since.
Update 9 March 2015: Ian G. of the Isle of Man sent a snapshot showing his superior
soldering skills :)
I have a Krups XN2120 which had displayed the flickering buttons problem a
couple of times but had corrected itself when turned off and left for a few
minutes. Then a few days later the machine was dead. I expected to have to
throw my machine away but found your blog, made a tool and took the
machine apart; one thermal fuse had blown so I replaced it along with the two
rectangular capacitors and it is back to functioning perfectly. Thank you for
collating all of the Nespresso information -it has saved me the cost of a new
machine. I have attached pictures of the new parts in situ and of the tool I
made.
Update 24 March 2015: Mary M. of Wollongong, Australia found a way to fix an air-locked Nespresso machine. She reports:
I found your blog by chance as I've had problems with Nespresso N95 and was going to ask if your tool would find
its way to Australia but first decided to try the "melting the bic pens method" for those horrible oval screws. Took a
few goes but it worked!!! Thanks so much for your blog.
Only problem is now not sure how to fix Machine now.. Machine turns on fine but when I press the button to make
coffee it's making motor noises but not pumping water at all. Was hoping it was a loose hose but they all seem ok.
Turned out I didn't need to take it apart at all. Apparently the internal pump gets air locked if machine not used for a
while... found answer here. http://www.whichpodcoffee.com/nespresso-problem-water-coming/
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Update 1 April 2015: Jaap H. of The Netherlands reported that a standard 3.5mm socket
will turn the oval-head screws:
Hi Chris, I read your site on the special tool to open up a krups nx 2105 I
was a bit surprised to read it took you all so long to find one. I used a small
3,5mm size metric socket. One of those that sit on the end of watchmakers
screwdriver type tool. 5 dollars for a complete set. It slips nicely over the
screws. Had it open in a minute.
Update 11 April 2015: Micah R. of Park City, Utah got his yard-sale-find Le Cube
working again with the traveling socket:
Thank you so much for arranging to have the socket wrench sent to me. It
worked like a charm, after trying multiple different variations on the theme
including trying to melt several bic pans, trying a needle nose pliers, trying a
soft aluminum screw hole bent to fit.
I have a new espresso Le Cube. My wife picked it up at a yard sale for $30.
My problem was that the button for the small cup only produced a few
drops, and the button for the large cup produced way too large of a cup and
just didn't stop going. I'm not sure exactly what the problem was. I opened
up the machine, made sure everything was clean, made sure all of the
buttons and levers were adjusted properly, took off oneof the hoses to make
sure that the O-ring was not worn out, reconnected it, put the whole thing
back together, and it works fine. I suspect that the problem might have been
the hose connection, or just that it was not clean enough.
I am happy to forward the socket wrench to the next frustrated self repair
man. Just let me know.
Update 27 April 2015: Tim W. of Melbourne, Australia sent a note about his capacitor repair:
Thanks to your blog my nespresso essenza is back in business. We also had rapid
flashing lights then total failure. I opened the case with a #10 spanner bit, found one of
the thermal fuses had blown. Found replacement fuses and caps on ebay and waited...
with the final part arriving tonight I can report the surgery was a success. Pics show
new yellow caps and 2 green lights!
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Update 26 June 2015: Tal H. of Israel wrote me about replacing the flaky
rubber button in his machine:
The last time the button was not working I sent it for repair at
Nespresso. For a significant amount of money and a lot of
effort on my part, I accept service rather dubious - I guess they
just opened and cleaned the button.
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Update 19 August 2015: Graham S. wrote from London about repairing a Krups XN2800
machine:
I found your blog a few days ago when I was looking for info on a faulty Krups
XN2800 Nespresso machine that I'd come across.
I replaced both caps although possibly only one was faulty. However, as they only cost
me £1 for the two I couldn't be bothered fussing with changing just one then the other
if necessary.
In 2012 here was a chap called Patrick d'H. from Cape Town asking about a unit that
switched itself off when the coffee button was pushed, the same fault that my one
exhibited. I can confirm that replacing both the 220nF and 470nF capacitors has fixed
the fault for me.
Great blog!
Update 13 November 2015: João B. of Lisbon, Portugal took his Krups Nespresso on the
high seas:
Starting September 2014 I crossed the Atlantic in a 42 feet sailing boat, from
Lagos, Portugal to St Lucia in the Caribbean, via the Canary Islands and the Cape
Verde Islands. As you know the first is a Spanish region, while Cape Verde is a
former Portuguese colony where the official language is Portuguese.
A nice and peaceful trip that started in mid September and ended in the beginning
of December with a total of 30 sailing days.
The problem was: Boats up to 50 feet normally do not have a 220VAC generator.
They all have a 12VDC system and for such a trip almost all have small inverters
12VDC to 220VAC to charge computers, mobile phones, shaving machines, etc,
etc.
But my Krups Nespresso is rated 1260 Watts. Big problem. Not enough 220VAC
power onboard.
However: 4 people, minimum 4 coffees per day times 30 days = 480 coffees.
That deserved some investigation.
To the great disappointment of my wife I borrowed our coffee machine from the
kitchen, having promised her that I would return it in good working condition.
That was in mid August 2014 and I forgot to tell her when I would return the
machine.
Test with a power meter showed that the heating part of the machine, the one that
heats the water to approximately 85 deg C, consumed 1200 Watts and the pump
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I disconnected the wire that powers the heating resistor. Green circle shows tip of
power wire (with red insulation tape covering the female connector). Red circle
shows male connector on heating element
I disconnected the temperature detector (see green circle). The machine would
not start. I measured the resistance of the temperature detector and connected a
variable resistor of a slightly bigger resistance (see upper red circle) to the
temperature detector input (see lower red circle). The variable resistor was
adjusted. When it reached 6.85 kohm the machine started operating. Good
I heated water to boiling temperature in the gas cooker and filled the water
container. Then took three cups of water (without coffee) to heat the body of the
electric water heater and then took the four coffees in a quick succession to keep
the water hot enough. Quality of the coffees was as good as with the machine
before the modifications.
However when disconnected from the mains and connected to the output of a
12VDC to 220VAC inverter that I had at home the machine would not work. I
thought that the only reason for that was the wave form of the cheap inverter I
had at home. These inverters are good enough to power computers, mobile
phones, etc but the microprocessor in the Krups machine is clever enough to
block operation when it sees a square wave instead of a sinusoidal wave.
Fortunately the boat had a good quality sine wave (or quasi sine wave) inverter
and when I tested it in the boat the machine operated 100%. Bingo.
Warning: Boiling water and transferring it to the coffee machine in a sailing boat
is a dangerous operation and should not be attempted unless you have calm or
moderate seas and with great caution. The last thing you want to have is a boiling
water burn in the middle of the ocean. I saw it happening to a crew mate some
years ago. It was not nice. Fortunately we were less than two days from the
nearest harbour.
The machine operated quite well during the ocean crossing and all the crew
enjoyed their espressos every day after lunch and dinner.
The boat only returned to Portugal this Summer and I just got the machine a
week ago. After some reverse engineering it is working in my kitchen, some15
months after it left it,
Update 18 January 2016: Mark M. wrote from Perton, Wolverhampton about repairing a Krups XN-2009 machine:
I had an unusual request to repair a Krupps XN-2009 nespresso machine. It was dead - however, I would not have
been able to open it without the info in your blog. Thanks!
Anyway, I quickly made an oval socket (hand drilled an M6 bolt, with a 3mm drill - and just opened it up sideways -
worked a treat!). As a way of thanks - I thought I would share my repair info:
There is a 220uF electrolytic capacitor on the control board. In my case, this was short circuit - preventing the PIC
microcontroller from powering up. Replaced the 220uF cap, and it works fine.
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Update 21 January 2016: Jason from Hong Kong sent advice about turning those
pesky screws:
Greetings from Hong Kong! Just wanted to thank you for your website
on removing the annoying oval screws and notify you and anyone else
having trouble of another method I found to work for a Jura S9
Avantgarde. I tried quite a few of the suggestions including making a
tool from a tube and the Bic method, I was going to buy the tool but
(un)fortunately, Amazon won't post them here, and other sites wanted
US$100 for post!
Update 25 January 2016: Niklas K. from Freiburg, Germany related his story
about a DeLonghi cube:
Thanks for the time you take updating and maintaining a blog that is
resourceful, impressive and has undoubtedly been a priceless database
for this world's fix-it-yourself community.
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Update 28 January 2016: Tomer B. from Haifa, Israel sent me a note about a
machine rescued from the curb:
Update 29 January 2016: Robert C. from Bahrain sent me a question about a C90 that I could not answer:
Very interesting blog, I was happy to find so many people interested in keeping their Nespresso Machines running.
I'm living out in Bahrain and just had my work nespresso machine (C90) stop working the other day. It'll turn on and
go through the heating cycle, but once the coffee button stops flashing and I start making coffee, the machine stops
and turns off. I managed to get it apart and made sure the check valve wasn't stuck causing it to trip off. Have you
seen anything similar or have any ideas? Thanks in advance for any help.
As I continued my troubleshooting, I hooked up the pump directly to 220V (Its a european machine) and the pump
works fine. So I'm led to believe the electronics are the cause. I'm more of a mechanical type, so any help getting
through the electrical troubleshooting would be great! Thanks again.
Frequent reader Ádám H. of Százhalombatta, Hungary spotted Robert's question here and sent tips on 1 Feb:
I have two (three) tips, but I think the known capacitor problem is the thing here, there is possibility they
cannot withstand the extra heat after start (barely working). The C90 is the manual essenza, so all the
main parts are identical that of the automatic ones, so he can try the change of the 220nF and 470nF
capacitors. The second tought is the triac driving the heater unit (the 3 legged chip with heatsink on it)
but if the heater is heated up correctly I don't think that it should be the problem. On third the elecrical
grid at Bahrain, as I read, it is like at continental Europe (230V 50Hz) with a formerly GB plug type, but
I cannot get information about the frequency tresholds, with the nespresso IC-s are really sensitive of,
which also can cause this if the capacitors are worn, so we are back at the first point. Other then this I
don't really have ideas that can cause the machine to shut down when the pump is initiated (the pump's
capacitor is the 220nF one). Of course if the machine is dismantled already clean the buttons, they
cannot cause this problem, but if it is already in pieces...
So I replaced the small capacitor a couple of weeks ago since that one was available in Bahrain, but the
machine still had all the same symptoms. Now I just got the big capacitor in and it seems to have solved
all the issues. So I would say for this problem you're probably ok just changing out the big capacitor.
Thanks for the help and keeping up the blog.
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Update 30 January 2016: Gilles M. from Vernon, France customized his machine with an extra set
of (working) buttons, and also created the awesome nespresso world tour visualization!
I found your blog and I must admit that I loved the travel stories of the tools !
After reading all the entries, I tried to build my own wrench, first with my 3D printer
(what are they for, if not repairing stuff ?) then using the 'drill-a-bolt' method, since my
ABS-printed wrench was too soft to unlock the screws.
Seeing some people reported a recurring issue, I decided to to the full makeover :
cut the heads of the oval headed screws so a regular screwdriver would be enough
for next time (or at least for reassembling the parts)
replace the silicon buttons by standard temporary push buttons
Since the push buttons I had on hand were too small to fit the holes, I kept the silicon
buttons as 'labels' with their power and coffee icons, placed a new green LED inside the
coffee silicon button, rewired everything, and drilled two additional holes for the push
buttons. I had to cut some silicon and part of the original PCB to have my push button
go through, but it keeps the buttons nice and fit into the original holes. Look at the last
picture to see how it looks in the end !
Update 13 February 2016: Chris C. from Mallorca, Spain asked for help
with finding a replacement for a cracked resistor on his Essenza's circuit
board:
Thanks for your blog and what you are doing for us Nespresso
owners. After reading your blog I managed to open my
machine (small strip of aluminium with a V cut in the bottom
did the job). I was wondering if you can share the attached
photo from my Esenza and ask if any of the community can
identify the big (cracked) resistor at the front. I make it 100m
ohm, which is huge, and I can't find any that look any like that,
so I was hoping another user had come across the same
problem, and had a solution.
Update 22 February 2016: Ernest K. from Roslyn, NY asked for help with his
D290:
Thank you for your great blog. I am searching to find a solution for
my d290 problem. The machine turns on but the green lights for the
cup symbol and the steam symbol never turn on. The machine does
nothing but sit there with the red "on" light illuminated.
The heater gets hot. The red "on" button behaves abnormally. It should
come on flashing until unit warms up and is ready. Should then go
solid along with the green cup buttons and steam button. Mine comes
on solid immediately and green buttons never light up.
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Update 29 March 2016: Eduardo C. from Lisbon, Portugal reported a successful repair of his
D120:
Many thanks on having that repair a jura nespresso machine blog with some shared
stories, since I was able to repair my nespresso machine.
I don't know if you are still updating with new stories but I've decided to share mine
so it can help others.. I've placed some pictures and videos in the following link
during the repair: https://goo.gl/photos/DEM1MeE3kGJW3JZy7
I had a water leak from the bottom of my nespresso D120 and no coffee came out..
Went to a nespresso store to get it repaired and they would charge me 65€ fixed
price per repair, whatever the problem might be. It seemed a little bit excessive for a
leak so I tried to repair on my own. For the oval socket I've used some sugestions in
your blog and make my own from a bolt. The bolt was long enough to be able to
unscrew the bolts with my hands without making much strenght..
One video shows where the leak was. The retainer spring had brake and the pipe
wasn't able to keep in place due to the water pressure. I used a hair pin to replace the
spring retainer and cut it to fit the socket. A second video shows the machine
working properly with the hair pin securing the pipe. I hope it holds until i buy the
retainer spring which I found for about 0.65€:
http://www.coffeemaker-spareparts.com/Jura-Spareparts/Pump-fluid-system
/Retainer-spring-for-Jura-AEG-
Krups::3625.html?XTCsid=d4ac13517b80d862c83e1c418969b1f1
Update 31 March 2016: Ruud R. from The Netherlands posted a video of his
XN5005 Cube's bad behavior, rapidly flashing its two little-cup & big-cup brew
lights. Then he sent me a picture and explained how he repaired the machine:
I've read your blog entirely and perhaps is my problem with the
alternating flashing buttons the same as the rapidly blinking lights on
the jura machine? https://goo.gl/photos/2b9AUjK7zoGkdFBK6
you can add a new succes story to your blog! I have replaced the two
caps with new ones and the Cube is giving coffee again! The screws
are replaced with normal pozidrive ones. Tnxs for keeping your blog
alive!
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Update 26 April 2016: Trevor A. from down under in Sydney, Australia crafted an oval-
head socket from an old bolt and sent me a picture:
Many thanks for your Blog. I have a DeLonghi EN 90.M Nespresso machine,
where the power button was taking more and more presses to power on.
After reading your really interesting blog and all the suggestions, I made
myself a tool to remove the dreaded oval head screws, by using the suggestion
(by Dave H. at beginning of blog) of drilling an oval shaped hole in the end of
and old steel bolt. I was able to remove a non-recessed oval head screw using
long nosed pliars, and used this screw to continually test the recess I was
drilling in the end of the bolt, drilling a little at a time, starting with a centre
hole, and then extending it sideways with a slightly smaller drill bit, till the
screw head fitted. I was then able to remove the sides of the machine using the
tool on the four recessed screws underneath the machine. Then removed three
more torx screws to remove the plastic top casing of the machine. I could then
easily remove the circuit board and power button. I cleaned the "contacts" on
top of the circuit board and the bottom of the switch with methylated spirits,
reassembled the whole machine, and power button worked first time!
Again, it was the plastic elbow coming off the top of the high
pressure pump. Initially i tried changing the O-ring but I
realised the elbow itself was the fault. Both terminals to the
HP pump were corroded too and there was evidence of a lot of
leakage, but it cleaned up OK.
The o-ring between the elbow and the HP pump was not in the
best shape so I ordered metric 4x2mm (4mm internal diameter,
2mm cross section) nitrile from a supplier for a few British
pounds. This was a perfect fit and seems better than the
imperial equivalent 5.28x1.78 shown in the service manual.
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All for fixed for £20. And I hope she goes on for many more
happy years!
The green LEDs seemed quite dim, and flashed slowly as the water
heated up, then faster as it neared the correct temperature. When I
pushed either of the cup size buttons, the pump buzzed on/off
/on/off intermittently, taking several minutes to half fill the cup. I
only had two 220n capacitors and one 330n (recycled from old wall
socket power supplies), so replaced the 220n first with the same
results. The 220n was not the faulty capacitor.
Update 16 Sep 2016: For those who like to play with fire, Kym L. from Adelaide,
South Australia offered instructions on crafting sockets from molten metal:
If you can't remove any of the fasteners; Find a small, clean Allen
head screw and check that the head of the screw (the area that the
Allen key normally fits into) will fit into the coffee machine's fastener
recesses, and also over the oval head fastener itself with a little bit of
clearance.
Make sure that the oval head fastener is clean and in a clean recess in
the base of the machine. Invert the machine if possible. Now dab the
oval fastener with a paint brush/Q-tip moistened with a little WD-40
or similar. Mix up a tiny amount of JB Weld and fill the recess in the
Allen head fastener with this. Don't over-fill! Now, squish it over the
oval head fastener and leave it in place for a day or so. If you do it
right, the WD-40 will allow the cured JB Weld to release from the oval
fastener, meaning you are left with a molded JB Weld 'socket' that is
easily strong enough to remove all of the oval head fasteners in one of
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If you can remove one oval head fastener and you like fire and melting
things; Again, this relies on using a small Allen head socket. The
different here is that we are going to use heat, so you'll need a butane
burner at the very least as a heat source. Now get your hands on some
aluminium brazing rod (hardware stores) or at a pinch, some solder.
Have a couple of pairs of needle nose pliers or a vice on hand.
You will need to have removed just one of the oval head fasteners
from your machine, intact.
Now, ideally, gently place the Allen head fastener, head upwards and
level, in your vice. Heat with your butane burner until very hot. Now
melt your aluminium brazing rod or solder (the brazing rod is better
and tougher) into the recess where the Allen key would normally fit
until you have filled the recess with liquid metal.
Next step, while holding the oval head fastener with pliers, carefully
plunge the oval head into the liquid metal and hold it there. In just a
few seconds the liquid metal will set hard. Allow to cool. The oval
head fastener should now pull out of the mould fairly easily. You now
have a 'lifetime' oval socket removal tool. (Just hold the threaded part
with pliers to turn).
Just thought I'd share these methods for anyone who is a bit stuck.
Needless to say I take no responsibility for anyone glueing themselves
together or burning their shed down.
Pic 1: Used an old 5mm socket and 'cast' the oval head using JB Weld
as in the first methd I described. It's a little rough around the edges but
it is easy, cheap and anyone could do it.
Pic 2: Here's a pic of a (shiny) Allen head fastener as well as the (dull)
fastener that I've used to cast the oval head using Aluminium brazing
rod. It looks rough but believe me, the oval head impression is actually
very good and the tool (held in pliers) would last forever. If I could get
more motivated I'd weld the fastener to a screwdriver to make it easier
to use. I'll get there eventually.
Pic 3: And here's a pic of the fastener full of melted solder ready to
'cast' the oval head screw. Solder melts at a lower temperature than the
aluminium brazing rod, but it doesn't set instantly - once you dunk the
oval head of the fastener into the pooled solder, you'll need to walk
away for 5 minutes or so while it hardens properly.
Update 10 October 2016: Jeroen v.V. shared a question about his Le Cube machine:
Thanks a lot for your website! Found your weblog while looking for some information on the Le Cube pcb while
repairing and modifying my Le Cube nespresso machine.
I first removed the oval screws two years ago with plyers and brute force slightly damaging the back plastic (but it's
flat against the wall so fortunately it doesn't show). Found out that the cause of the malfunctioning device where two
thermofuses I replaced. A month ago I noticed a leak inside the central brewing unit where my (cheaper) capsules
would leak into the waste container. Happens to be the same problem Eros C (13-10-2014) described. Fortunately he
also had a fix and following his description solved that problem.
At the moment I am looking for a steady 5v power supply from the PCB I can use to power an mini ESP8266 wifi
module which can already trigger the coffee maker (and detect when the machine is heating up). Still haven't found it
yet but when I start working on it again I'll mail you some photo's.
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Update 19 Oct 2016: Daniel V. from Barcelona, Spain reported a successful capacitor swap
on a Krups machine:
this is Daniel Vila from Barcelona (Catalonia/Spain). This is just to thank you for
your valuable blog collecting lots of information very useful when trying to repair
our Krups.-
In my case I suffered the typical 'two-leds mad blinking problem' and replaced
both blue capacitors for new yellow ones (you can see the attached picture). Now
it works again. Perfect!
hope this info can be useful to others and you can update the page with this email.
by the way, I used a cooper tube , a little bit bend, to extract the f. screws...
Update 2 November 2016: Rene v.d.W. from Zoetermeer, The Netherlands sent a
note and picture about her Krups XN5005:
Thank you for sharing all the Nespresso information in your blog.
Just finished the repair of a Krups XN5005 for the second time. After
the first attempt, replacing the capacitors, it was working fine for half
an hour but died again with a nasty smell.
The thermal fuses had gone, again, and there was an extra surprise in
the form of a completely burned out relay.
After cleaning the soot and replacing the relay all is working well
again.
Seems that I will enjoy my Krups a bit longer than the manufacturer
intended, so thank you from the Netherlands.
Update 8 Jan 2017: Dan L. from Chicagoland shared his Citiz story:
That long blog posting you do about the oval screws for Nespresso machines - wow what a fantastic thread. Thank
you so much for doing that.
It started leaking coffee into the base. It got really bad the day I brought home a brand new Breville Creatista
machine. The machine was jealous, I guess. The oval screws, amazing. I ended up with a pair of needlenose pliers
and was able to get all 6 screws off. On the Citiz they are not recessed, so it wasn't too hard.
What was almost impossible though, was disassembling the machine. Whoa, all those plastic clips and weird
construction. Even with the service manual http://www.olino.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09
/MagixmixManual4Pro.pdf and two videos of people taking one apart, it was still really difficult. Hate to mention
this video, but it was the only one where the person actually takes the thing apart https://youtu.be/-MiH0MiNVxU
Turned out, the capsule clamp just needed to be really cleaned out. It was full of dried coffee.
Replaced the screws with #4 Philips head 1 inch screws with #4 stainless steel washers.
Without your blog thread, I would have never been able to get inside that machine and fix it. Thank you so much.
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Update 25 April 2017: Mary A. of Saratoga, California solved an air-lock problem in her
Nespresso:
Thank you for your blog on repairing a Nespresso machine! I'm not at all
handy, but it gave me the confidence to order the key off of eBay and try a
couple of things rather than sending the unit to the landfill. In the end I figured
out that I just needed to get rid of the air by doing this:
http://www.whichpodcoffee.com/nespresso-problem-water-coming/
I figured this out thanks to Mary M's post from March 24, 2015.
Appreciate you keeping this site going as I'm sure I'll run into one of these
problems some day!
What I immediately realized is that the problem lied on the two MKP
X2 capacitors, which had to be replaced. And, reading the long story
in your blog, I understood that the main issue is with the weird screws
used on those machines.
I will describe to you how I got off those weird screws. Firstly, I
managed to unscrew one of the smaller and shallower front screws
with a suitable hex socket. I would use this screw as a guide to make a
suitable wrench. I happen to have a mini lathe, so it was easy for me to
make an initial hole on a piece of brass rod. The diameter of the hole
was the small distance of the ellipse of the head of the original screw. I
also happen to be a dentist, so I have a lot of burs. I found a suitable
straight cylindrical bur with which, by trying continuously on the head
of the screw, I managed to shape an elliptical form for the wrench.
After that, I made a slot on the other side and it was a piece of cake to
take out all the other screws.
I just want to thank you for your great help. Without the hints and
information provided in your blog, my attempt to repair my Nespresso
would be much more difficult. So, keep up the good work!
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I just want to say thank you for the good info found on your blog
that helped me to fix an old Nespresso Krups XN2008
I got a bit crazy with the screws but the tool in the picture saved
my day
I replaced the capacitors with new ones (80 cents well spent) of
equal value, but just a little different in shape (the big blue bubble
you see in the picture below)
The smaller one of 220nF is a bit longer (the gray one in the
picture below) but the circuit board has a second hole linked with
the original one that allow to mount it seamlessly
Thanks again
Update 13 Nov 2017: Henry K. of Maputo, Mozambique asked about the erratic behavior
of his Magimix M100, but all I could suggest was gunk blocking the flow:
We have a second hand Magimix M100 that we don't use often enough. When I
went to make a coffee yesterday, it went gbrr and nothing came out. Not one
drop. As though it was blocked.
A bit of googling and watching of videos later, and having realised I needed to
deal with those infamous oval screws, I stumbled on your website. Amazing!
How the internet used to be!
I had resigned myself to paying too much for a special tool and it taking ages to
arrive. After perusing your blog, I first thought of trying the long nosed pliers
option and popped to the hardware store this afternoon. When passing down the
school supplies aisle, the bic solution you wrote about sprung to mind so I
picked up a couple of bics just in case. So, the first two screws came out easily
with the pliers. However the others were too deep. Given how easily they had
turned this gave me the courage to try the bic solution. First time and good for
four screws! Thanks to the DIY genius who thought that up!
Case opened, water flows through - but not well. No air blocking pipes.
But the pump is still temperamental/blocked. I keep pushing the coffee button:
it whirrs and then a drop or a stream comes out. It then needs turning on again.
(Same problem as Patrick in Cape Town - did he ever fix his?) I thought it was
the button, but I took that apart, wiped with cotton bud, and couldn't see
anything wrong with it. (Do I need a special cleaning solution?) Pressing
hundreds of times, I have managed to fill four tea cups with boiling water.
Occasionally a few bits of gunk/dried coffee come out. It is improving. But it is
not getting better in a predictable way. Sometimes nothing; sometimes 1-2
seconds of flow. Any thoughts? I think I need some DIY descale tips. Or has
something gone wrong with the little circuit board? Re-reading your blog, it
looks like we might be in capacitor territory... :(
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Repairing a Jura Nespresso Machine https://www.maultech.com/chrislott/blog/20100627_nespresso.html
Update 9 Feb 2018: Paulo F. of Portugal reengineered the buttons on his Krups
nespresso after using a spring-steel grooved dowel pin to remove the oval-head screws:
Her's my fix on the buttons on the nespresso. Here are the buttons i've used
since the silicone ones are terrible.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2PCS-10MM-Mini-Metal-Button-
Switch-3Pin-Momentary-Self-Released-Not-Locking-Power-Push-Button-
Flat/32828588124.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.262.Htqota
I've added a Led and made a hole for it. Her's some pictures, with the
overall look, of it.
Regarding the key to open the machine and remove those screws: Since the
screw heads are oval you only have to buy a steel pin that fits the head.
These kinds of pins
https://ever-hardware.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Parallel-pin-
spring-grooved-dowel-pins-tension-sellock-roll-black-galvanizing.jpg
https://szinsail.en.made-in-china.com/productimage/nSjEJlQOacVg-
2f1j00rFDQczmdCpkf/China-Stainless-Steel-Grooved-Spring-Pins.html
These pins are very hard and will break before bending. They are also very
cheap, you'll have to buy one that fits the top of the screw. In case they
break , you can easely replace it.
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Update 27 May 2018: Erica C. of Toronto, Canada borrowed the socket and cured
her machine of an airlock problem. She writes:
I hope you are doing well. I am reaching out because I found your
blog on the internet about the Jura Capresso machine repairs. I
recently found mine (an Essenza C100) in a closet when we were
moving, and didn't think about it (we have been serious french-press
coffee makers!). When I went to try it of course it didn't work. It is
warming up, the pump is trying to work, etc etc... but no water.
Anyway, we tried the Bic pen technique and got 4 out of 6 screws out
of the machine... the shallow ones came out right away, and the two on
the left also came out fairly easily (my tip - when you melt the pen,
leave it on the screw for the 30 second wait time... it really cements
them into the plastic and makes getting them out fairly easy. I guess
you have to make sure you don't meld it to the actual coffee machine
though.
The last two screws, the deep ones on the right, are fully stuck in there
though. To the point where my pen actually broke under pressure
before the screw loosened. After the success with the first screws, I
don't know how these others have gotten themselves so jammed. It is
both the screws on the one side, I tried them both.
I spent last night opening it - the final screw put up a good fight. I
managed to clear out the air (it was fully airlocked) by using a baby
syringe filled with water. Good news is that there don't seem to be any
other problems with the machine and it has run through several rounds
of water perfectly!
Thank you so much, it was well worth the wait - the bic pen just
couldn't get that last screw out!
Where in the world are the sockets? A steel socket is with Erica C. in Toronto, Canada.
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