CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES

All the textiles fibres are classified into two main divisions depending on the
sources and the chemical nature of the fibres namely natural fibres and manmade
fibres.

1.2.1 NATURAL FIBRES

Natural fibres are obtained from natural origin. The main base materials are
the cellulose. Some natural fibres are cotton, silk, flax, linen, wool, jute, hemp.

1.3 COTTON
 Cotton is the hair is attached to the seed of the cotton plant, or the species of
plant known as gossipium. Cotton is the oldest fibre used for textiles purposes, it is
3000 years ago which mentions the “Rig Veda”.

Now cotton is cultivated in almost every country in the world having a mild
climate, suitable for cotton cultivation.

Cotton is a fibre that grows from the surface of seeds on the pods or bolls. It is
composed basically o a woody substance called as “cellulose”.

The important cotton growing areas are as follows:- Argentina, brazil, china,
Colombia, Greece, Egypt, India, Mexico, Pakistan, Peru, Russia, Spain, turkey, U.S.A,
west Indies,

TYPES OF COTTON

Different varieties of cotton are grown in various parts of the world,

1. Sea-island cotton,

2. Egyptian cotton,

3. South American cotton,

4. American cotton,

5. Indian cotton,

6. China cotton,

Composition Of Cotton

Cellulose - 85.5%

Oil & wax – 0.5%

Pectin, pectose,

Colour matter – 5.0%

 Mineral matter- 1.0%

Moisture- 8.0%

1.3.2 MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF COTTON

Soil Condition

Cotton grows well in black brown soil. In India the area in which the cotton is
cultivated is divided into three regions:-

1. Black brown soil- Bombay, north Hyderabad, Bihar, sourashtra, etc.

2. Red soil – Tamilnadu, Orissa, and east Hyderabad,

3. Alluvial sand,

Cultivation Of Cotton

Cotton can be cultivated in only warm places. Cotton requires about 6 months
of continuous warm whether with adequate moisture and sunlight.

The ground must be thoroughly ploughed and the soil pulverized, carefully
selected cotton seeds are planted in rows, usually in march or April approximately
35 days pass before the seeds develop.

The plants are generally thinned out and weeded when they are from 5 to 7
inches to tall. The young plants develop creamy white flowers in June then turn pink
and reddish purple.

The cotton ball grows to full size by august a month and a half to two months
after the flowers first appeared. When fully grown the cotton plant may be from 3 to
6 feet in height. When the seeds are nearly ripe the pod bursts open and the cotton
hair project.

Harvesting
 Not all cotton balls are open at the same time. Only those that burst, thus
exposing the fibre, are ready for picking consequently, a handpicked cotton field
must be gone ever several times.

When mechanical pickers are used the balls are left on the plant until they are
all mature. The full ripe balls are then picked by machine, one or two rows at a time

1.3.3 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON

1. Microscopic Appearance : Flat tube, Spiral twists

2. Length of fibres : ¾” to 1 ½” and more

3. Diameter : 0.0005 inch to 0.0009inch

4. Colour: yellowish or cream; may be clean White

5. Luster : Not pronounced

6. Strength : Single fibre, 2 to 5 grams/denier

7. Elasticity: Lower than silk or wool; spiral Structure makes it better than
linen

8. Conductivity to heat : Fair

9. Reign or hydroscopic moisture : 8%

10. Capillarity and penetrability: Has capillarity

11. Composition: 87-90% cellulose, 4-6% gums, Protein, etc. 5-8% water.

12. Specific Gravity: 1.50 to 1.58

1.3.4 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES COTTON

1. Effect of light: Weakness

2. Mildew: Readily Attacked

3. Heat: with stands well; can be heated to 150 C with no damages scorches at
245C and burns.
 4. Water: Even boiling water has no action

5. Mineral acids: Concentrated acids destroy H2SO4, HCL, HNO3, HF

6. Volatile organic acids: No damage (Formic acid, acetic)

7. Non volatile acid: will tender slightly if not removed, (Oxalic, tartaric,
citric) especially I heat is applied

8. Strong alkalis (NaOH, Na2CO3): No injury- concentration Shrink –

mercerized cotton with Concentration
9. Metallic salts: Has practically no affinity,

10. Affinity for dye stuff: Less than that of silk and wool.

11. Reduction bleaches: No injury if controlled,

Uses

Cotton is extensively used for apparel fabrics, House hold fabrics like bed
sheets, kitchen fabrics, Rugs, carpets, towels, Cotton can be also used in industrial
application, tyre cords, in bags Shoes and medical application and other medical
equipments.

Microscopic Appearance Of Cotton

LONGITUDINAL VIEW CROSSSECTIONAL VIEW