WOOL

1.5.1 DEFINITION

Wool is a hair fibre, Wool is the natural growing on the body of animals, Wool
is the protein fibre, The protein present in the wool fibre is known keratin, Wool is the
cellular fibre, Different qualities and grades of wool

The sheep is valuable animal and is found in every corner of the globe. It
provides skin; mutton and wool, there are several breeds of sheep in the world. The
wool is broadly classified as follows;

1. Fine wool (merino),

2. Medium wool,

3. Long wool,

4. Cross bred wool,

5. Carpet wool.

Fine Wool

Fine wool or merino wool represents the finest quality or wool in the market. It is
produced by a breed of sheep known by that name . The principal merino families of
today are Spanish, Australian, American, South American and South African.

The merino wool is noted for fineness: softness (softest wool of all); and crimp or
waviness .it is most pronounced in merino wool. The merino wools have as many as
30 waves to an inch in a fiber.

Most of the merino wool from modern sheep is white or near-white in colour.
Length varies from 2”to5”.the merino wool is superior to other types of wool in
appearance, handle and finish.

Medium wool
 The length varies from 2to 5 inches; count spun from 46 to 60. they are lighter
than merino, less sandy and less greasy. Fineness : quarter to half blood.

Largest percentage o this wool type is produced by breeds in Great Britain.

the important breeds are: south-down, shoeshine, Hampshire, oxford. The breeds are
also found in USA., Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, chile and Canada.

Medium wools are suitable for hosiery and knit goods also used or ladies wear
such as suiting, coatings fine tweeds and men’s worsted suiting serges, flannels, over-
coating and blankets.

Long Wool

The wools are the largest of all breeds their length ranging from 8 to 15”. They
are coarsest wool grown. Fineness: quarter blood.

The important breeds of this type are Lincoln, Cotswold, and leieester. Also
bred in U.S.A., Argentina, Australia, New Zealand and Canada. These breeds can be
classified into two types;

1. Lustre wools;

2. Demi lustre wools.

The lustre wool is often 12” long and is made into lustrous dress fabrics,
buntings, linings etc. The semi lustre wool is shorter and has a less pronounced lustre.
It is made into serges, dress fabrics and curtains.

Cross Bred Wools

The cross-bred sheep serve dual purpose ie; excellent in both meat and wool
production. Sometimes increased resistance to certain adverse local conditions is also
achieved by crossing of the breeds.

Most of the cross breed sheep are the outcome of the crosses between the
merino and one of the English breed. The length varies from 5 to 6”.fineness: quarter
to half blood.
 New Zealand sheep industry is based on cross bred-sheep. Australia and South
Africa also export a great deal of wool produced by cross-bred sheep.

The important cross-bred breeds are:

1. U.S.A; corriedale; Columbia; panama; Romedale; Mondale; targhee

2. AUSTRALIA: Corriedale; Polwerth.

3. NEW ZEALAND: Corriedale

Carpet Wool (Long And Coarse Type Wool)

Carpet wools are produced by sheep which live under primitive conditions in
all parts of the world. A large proportion of the carpet wool comes from Asiatic
countries. Wool is usually 4 to 10” long.

Carpet wools are principally used in the manufacture of carpet and rugs. In the
world trade, Indian wool is known as east India carpet.

Some better qualities are used for making medium grade serges, over coatings,
coarse tweeds, hosiery and other coarse fabrics by mixing with other wools.

1.5.2 MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF WOOL

Grading Of Wools

Commercial grades of wools are based primarily on fineness or diameter of

fibre. Two distinct systems of grading are used in the industry to describe the market
grades of wools.

They have known as the blood or American system and the numerical or
English system. The numerical terms, like 50s, 60s, and 70s are used internationally.

Composition Of Wool

Basically wool, like all other hairs, animal horns, and finger –nails, is composed
of a special protein called keratin, which differs from others on account of its high
sulphur content. Raw wool contains 30 to70% of impurities.
 Keratin – 33%

Dirt - 26%

Suint - 28%

Fat - 12%

Mineral Matter - 1%

Wool scouring wool is usually scoured before processing into yarn so as to

remove grease, sweat, and mineral impurity. Lower grade qualities used for carpet
and blankets. The scouring process can be carried out in following ways,

1. Emulsion scouring

2. Desuintage

3. The solvent system

4. The Duhamel system

Emulsion Scouring

It is a steeping process used for removing the heavy sand particles and dirt
materials. Heated water, soap and alkali or other detergent are the scouring agent
used to assist by agitation from the mechanical arrangement.

Wool Drying

The wool leaving a washing set contains about 50% of moisture which must be
removed before further processing. Drying by hot air is popular today. This is based
wet wool contact with heated air.

Wool Carbonizing

Vegetable matter such as burrs, seeds and straw can be removed from wool
either.

1. Mechanically: Just before and / or during carding

 2. Chemically : Immediately after wool scouring or during cloth finishing.

1.5.3 MECHANICAL METHOD

Burrs and other vegetable matters can be removed by passing the wool
through heavy crushing rollers before the intermediate stage of carding so that the
vegetable matters can be removed as a powder in subsequent carding.

1.5.4 CHEMICAL METHOD

The chemical process burr extraction is known as Carbonisation. The method

is based vegetable matter is cellulose and can be converted into a black brittle
hydrocellulose by treatment with certain mineral acids or some their salts. This
process is known as “carbonizing”.

Felting Of Wool

The process of felting a woolen cloth is to give it a desired finish called milling.
During milling considerable shrinkage take place. The amount of wool felting can be
determined by the measurement of shrinkage.

More felting takes place at pH less than 3 and greater than 9. Minimum felting
occurs at pH 3-9.pH above 10 affects the chemical of wool.

1.5.5 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOL

1. Microscopic appearance:

Longitudinal view -- Rodlike with scales on surface,

Cross-sectional view -- Nearly circular,

2. Length: 1-3” in woolen, 3-8” in worsted,

3. Diameter: 0.005to 0.0015 inches,

4. Colour: yellowish, but may be brown to black,

5. Lustre: Bright with gum out,

6. Strength: 1-1.7 grams per denier,

 7. Elongation: will stretch 25-35%before break,

8. Conductivity of heat: Poor,

9. Moisture regains: 15-18%,

10. Capillarity and penetrability: Has both,

11. Composition of fibre: Keratin, contains carbon, O2, H2, N2 and S2 amino
acid compounds.
12. Method of preparation: scouring to remove natural Contaminations, such
as wool grease and Perspiration
13. Specific gravity: 1.3 to 1.32.

1.5.6 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOL

1. Effect of light: Changes chemical structure, increase Affinity of dye stuff

2. Mildew: Attacked if left damp for too long Period

3. Heat: At 275.F dry heat, begins to yellow Decompose, 21.F wet heat becomes
plastic.

4. Water: boiling reduces lustre and strength Promotes shrinkage

5. Mineral acids (H2SO4, HCL, HNO3 ): Dilute acid don’t damage even at,

boil. Concentrated destroy wool.

6. Volatile organic acids (Formic acid, acetic): No damage

7. Non volatile acid (Oxalic, tartaric, citric): No injurious I washed out

8. Strong alkalis (NaOH, Na2CO3): weakened by strong solution, dilute Cold

solution not injurious if Neutralized

9. Metallic salts: Has affinity,

10. Affinity for dye stuff: Good,

 11. Classes of dyestuffs in common use: Acid some basic dyes and direct,

12. Effect of insects: Consumed by larrae of carpet beetle And clothes moth.

Uses

Wool’s resilience, bulk and care in handling make it most appropriate in

knitting goods. Also woolen and worsted fabrics can be produced by weaving.

Both woolen and worsted fabrics can be used in men’s and women’s suiting,
overcoat, sweaters, upholstery fabrics and blankets.