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Food and Travel Arabia April 2014 VK Com Englis PDF
Food and Travel Arabia April 2014 VK Com Englis PDF
ITALY
Pasta, pumpkins
COURSES
around the globe
and palaces
Sunday
Float best
your boat Brilliant brunches
New river cruises and lazy lunches
Cit y
escapes
Japan,
USA & Germany
PETAL
POWER
Floral spring breaks
BAKING
Meringues to millefeuilles
RECIPE INDEX
STARTS ON PAGE 116
38
40
70
42
48 48
On the cover
Mantua, Cookery courses, Radishes, Roasts, Patisserie, River Cruises, Sapporo, Philadelphia, Bobby Chinn
Gourmet travels in COOKERY
ITALY COURSES
82 River cruises
around the globe
Pasta, pumpkins
and palaces
Sunday
Float best
your boat Brilliant brunches
New river cruises and lazy lunches
Cit y
escapes
Japan,
USA & Germany
101 City escapes
PETAL
POWER
65 Cookery courses
Taste the experience – experience the taste
Floral spring breaks
Recipes Restaurants Places to Stay Darren Velvick Bobby Chinn Petal power
51
INSIDE
ARRIVALS TRAVEL
7 Hotel news New openings in 58 Spring loaded We round up
Ajman, Dubai, Oman, Ras Al the best breaks for celebrating
22 Khaimah and internationally spring flowers in bloom
The opening of the UAE’s first beachfront Luxury Collection hotel, New York and was known as a place to see and be seen. But if
the AJMAN SARAY, marks Starwood’s debut in the emirate which is relaxing’s more your style, there’s a white sand beach, pools, kids’
aiming to position itself as a haven for international travellers. club and lots more. (waldorfastoria.com)
With 205 luxury rooms and suites offering views of the Arabian Opened in March, the 400-room, five-star SALALAH ROTANA
Gulf, the resort offers a variety of epicurean experiences including a RESORT is the largest free-standing hotel in Oman.
speciality restaurant focusing on authentic Middle Eastern delicacies Set on the pristine Arabian coast just a stone’s throw from the
and a seafood eatery making the most of its coastal position. famous Salalah Beach, each of the resort’s luxury rooms and
There’s also a 1,250-sq-m spa, swimming pool and a range of suites are positioned directly on unique lagoons or nestled around
water sports to work off those Arabic delicacies. (luxurycollection. water features and an elaborate network of manmade waterways
com/ajmansaray). which connect the property to the Indian Ocean.
The new 319-room WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH Inspired by both local culture and the natural beauty of the
exudes the true luxury, world class amenities and sophistication for landscape, the heart of the hotel boasts high ceilings and a
which the brand is known. central internally-lit handmade red clay dome complementing the
Qualified guests are assigned a personal concierge to make sure wooden finishing and decorative mashrabiya latticework windows.
their every wish is met and visitors will be spoilt for choice with The in-room furnishings have been carved from desert rock while
a selection of six restaurants and bars including the New York- Arabesque geometric designs and stone archways, constructed
inspired Social by European chef and author Heinz Beck. using traditional techniques, resemble a cathedral atrium.
Drawing on the brand’s famous history, the centrepiece of the hotel There is a range of restaurants as well as Rotana’s own brand
is Peacock Alley, named after the famous high-society promenade Zen Spa to keep you busy while you’re not out exploring Salalah’s
lounge which connected the original Waldorf and Astoria hotels in monsoon-fed countryside. (rotana.com)
AJMAN SARAY WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH SALALAH ROTANA RESORT
Arrivals
HOTELS
Another cool offering from the same group as Point Yamu is the new
Metropolitan by Como, which shimmers with art deco elegance on
Miami Beach. Oceanic pastels, marble and chrome feature in its 74
rooms, while locally sourced seafood is artfully plated in its restaurant.
A Shambhala spa, rooftop juice bar and hydrotherapy pool keep it
ultra-modern too. Meanwhile, the Maalifushi by Como (opening April)
is surrounded by the crystalline waters of the Maldives’ Thaa Atoll, a
desert island where half the rooms are spread like lily pads over
the water, the other half tucked away amid lush vegetation.
MAALIFUSHI BY COMO
Puerto Portals in Mallorca’s Bay of Palma has long been a ceilings give the hotel a modern feel, while preserving traits
glamour spot, and OD PORT PORTALS (opening this April) fits the of the original 1910-made building. (missclarahotel.com).
retro chic perfectly. The interlocking pattern of its ocean-facing Lying just south of San Francisco in California’s sunny Silicon
balconies appears as a subtler rendition of some of its 1960s Valley, the city of Palo Alto may be something of a tech mecca
neighbours. The theme continues inside, where the light-filled, (having served as the incubator for digital Goliaths such as
long, open-plan lobby is lavishly adorned with nods to mid- Google, Facebook and Apple) but its new EPIPHANY HOTEL is
century design classics. The port and its cluster of high-end more than just a pilgrim’s inn. Located across the road from the
shops, bars and restaurants is only a short sashay away, if you leafy campus of Stanford University, it resonates with creative
can drag yourself from the pool. (od-hotels.com). energy, from a piece of kit that lets you stream media from
Stockholm’s MISS CLARA hotel – in a treasured art nouveau your iPod straight to the room’s 120cm TVs, through to the
building – reopens this April. Leaving subtle hints of femininity dedicated technology concierge and the free high-speed wifi
as a nod to the property’s past as a girls’ school, it puts you found throughout. The hotel is stylish but not at the cost of
on the doorstep of busy boulevard Sveavägen, the capital’s comfort, and the decor is definitely more chic than geek. Illy
most cosmopolitan street. In the dining room, watch the urban espresso machines, work desks with ergonomic chairs and a
buzz while trying executive chef Danny Guest’s reinvention of full-service restaurant, the Hopkins Tract, that offers 24-hour
Swedish classics. The use of Scandinavian materials of rich room service, are all perfect additions for any entrepreneurial
woods and natural leather alongside arched windows and high brains up burning the midnight oil. (jdvhotels.com).
CITY TOUR
DOHA
If you’re transiting
through Doha with
Qatar Airways and
have a stopover
between five and
12 hours, you can
now take a free city
tour courtesy of the airline and
Qatar Tourism.
Lasting around three hours
the tour takes in sites such
as the Museum of Islamic Art,
ON YOUR BIKE Oman
Take the opportunity to explore the Omani countryside with Bike & Hike Oman
Katara Cultural and Heritage
(bikeandhikeoman.com +968 9516 5038) before the weather gets too hot for such
Village (pictured) and Souq
exertions. The company was set up in 2012 with its headquarters at The View hotel in the
Waqif. Passengers can register
small oasis of Al Hamra in the Hajar Mountains from where it offers unique biking tours,
at the Doha City Tour counter
most of which run until the end of April. Distances range from 23km to 60-plus and you’ll
at Doha International Airport
news
need to be pretty fit. Prices start at $109 going in a group of three to ten cyclists and
transit terminal.
there are reductions if you’re staying at The View which has a new look following major
renovations – no more tents. (theview.com +968 2440 0873)
Travel
TIGHT TASMANIAN LINES
As we enter spring, the southern hemisphere moves into autumn – the
perfect time to celebrate a unique Australian anniversary with a new
world-class fishing holiday. Exactly 150 years ago, thousands of brown
trout eggs were transported from Britain to Tasmania, multiplying
profusely in the island’s abundant rivers and lakes. Now Australia’s top
professional fisherwoman, Simone Hackett, has marked the occasion by
launching a six-day break, tailored for both novices and experts, in the
island’s central highlands. Two-week self-drive trip, including fishing,
accommodation and car hire, from $3,262pp. (tasmanianodyssey.com)
Diary
GERMANY
The Walpurgisnacht
dates
CHINA
Po Shui Jie, the
SOUTH AFRICA
A weekend
ABU DHABI
Ferrari World hosts
BRAZIL
Get your fill of
festival sees locals water-splashing packed with all live shows from sausage and
dress up as witches festival in the Yunnan things cheese, around the globe at cassava at the
and warlocks to Province, is a huge the South African World Beats. Comida di Buteco
fend off evil spirits. water fight for all Cheese Festival in Performers include festival. Brazil’s best
Trek up the Brocken ages, where you Sandringham has Japanese ‘Taiko’ bars battle to serve
mountain to dance can splash each rows of eateries and drummers, capoeira the finest appetizers
around the fire and other and cleanse a Ladismith Cheese dancers and musical and beers.
celebrate the glories away the year’s Carving competition. Stomp. Until 6 April. 12 April-12 May.
of spring. 30 April. dirt. 13-15 April. From 26-29 April. (ferrariworldabudhabi. comidadibuteco.
(thisisharz.com) (poshuijie.com) (cheesefestival.co.za) com) com.br
1
letter S. Elsewhere around the world…
In Valencia, the Las Fallas Festival peaks with giant puppets, some April sees ice melt on the Neva river after three
of them portraying politicians, set alight on a bonfire. frozen months. Visit the palace-lined riverbank
at midnight to see the spectacular bridges
Men and women in Central Asia leap over flames in a hot hello to opening so large ships can make the 75km journey
spring – a tradition dating back to fire worship.
to and from the Gulf of Finland. Better still, watch the
Nepalese revellers enjoy a messy seasonal knees-up by chucking spectacle from a boat (st-petersburg.com).
2
generous handfuls of coloured powder into the air.
A new exhibition on Salvador Dalí and Spanish
Mexico witnesses people climbing up pre-Columbian pyramids and
raising their arms to draw energy from the new season’s sun. surrealism, opening in March, celebrates the
250th anniversary of Catherine the Great
founding The State Hermitage Museum (hermitage
museum.org). The museum follows it up with a hotly
anticipated display of Russian royal couture.
3
Spring sees the start of the summer
programme at New Holland, the former naval
dockyard established by Peter the Great in
1720. While its warehouses are part of a multi-
billion-dollar urban renewal project, the space hosts
seasonal exhibitions and installations, a pop-up
NEW FLIGHTS
organic restaurant and free exercise classes.
4
BOSTON Emirates has commenced daily flights to Boston,
You’re in St Petersburg; you will go to the
USA, from its home in Dubai. emirates.com
ballet. The Mariinsky II, the new $743 million
CYPRUS Qatar Airways launches four-times-weekly flights to offspring of the famous old theatre, is a
Larnaca from Doha beginning April 29. qatarairways.com startlingly modern venue, juxtaposed with
neoclassical façades. Get there early for a tipple on
TEHRAN Gulf Air has launched four flights a week to the the stunning rooftop terrace (mariinsky.ru).
5
Iranian capital from its operating hub in Bahrain. gulfair.com
Snooze among epic history at the famous
Hotel Astoria (thehotelastoria.com). A grand
CARBON COUNTING dame since 1912, it has hosted everyone
Inspired by the destinations featured in this issue of Food and Travel Arabia from Lenin and Rasputin to American presidents.
Photography by English Heritage; Spain.info
Feel even better by offsetting your carbon impact when you travel Alongside amazing views of St Isaac’s Cathedral,
Destination Tonnes CO2 Cost to offset an Olga Polizzi facelift has polished up its
Hanover, Germany 1.34 $16.56 atmospheric, heritage-listed interiors.
6
Mantua, Italy 1.28 $15.88
Philadelphia, USA 3.33 $41.20 April means St Petersburg’s days are longer,
Sapporo, Japan 2.22 $27.66 lighter and warmer (although the White Nights
are still two months away). Wrap up well for
Based on return flights to Dubai one of its new rash of alfresco rooftop bars and
restaurants, from Terrassa’s international dining
Offset your carbon emissions at ClimateCare (climatecare.org),
(terrassa.ru) to W Hotel’s chilled cocktails
where you can make a donation to support projects all over the
(wstpetersburg.com) opposite St Isaac’s dome.
world, from rainforest restoration to bio-energy schemes.
Choose CHOIX
When we heard that Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire
had plans to open another venue at the InterContinental Dubai
Festival City we were immediately planning a visit. But our
excitement peaked when we discovered that the new opening
was to be a patisserie and restaurant. CHOIX Patisserie and
Restaurant by Pierre Gagnaire is not only sating the sweet (and
savoury) cravings of diners at breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and
dinner, but has an all-too-tempting take out menu packed with
pastries, breads, biscuits, macarons, cakes, chocolates and more.
Egg CELLENT
High Tea
If it’s a slice of history and high tea that you
enjoy, then look no further than Fortnum &
We can’t deny we’re partial to seasonal confectioneries.
Mason. The newly opened outlet located
Truth be told we’re partial to chocolate and candies adjacent to Dubai Mall and The Address
any day of the week, but holidays are a good reason Downtown has brought its unique heritage (it
for both giving and receiving sweet items. So we was founded in 1707 in London), signature
recommend a trip to Candelite where you can discover offerings and imperious dining style to Dubai.
everything from Easter gift hampers – gourmet and Those looking to fully immerse themselves in
kids, pre-packed or customised – to cookies, fudges the Fortnum & Mason experience can enjoy
and candies. Among our favourites are the gorgeous The Tea Salon or The Ice Cream Parlour,
Maxim’s range – we’re not sure what we like most the before purchasing all manner of tempting
chocolate or the packaging! (candelite.com) delights including its signature Rose Petal
Jelly and Rose & Violet English Creams and
of course a selection of the finest teas.
JASON ATHERTON
DUBAI
Celebrity chef Jason
Atherton will make his
CAVALLI CLUB DUBAI Middle East debut at
the coming
Homemade agnolotti Monferrina
InterContinental Dubai
style, lamb fillet with Sichuan
Marina. Atherton, who
pepper and plum sauce and grilled worked as executive
Master Kobe for two are among chef at Gordon LAO DUBAI
the signature dishes of the Cavalli Ramsay’s restaurant The newly opened LAO is aiming to take diners on an
Club Restaurant & Lounge’s new Verre in 2001, exotic food journey that showcases the best of South East
menu. The vision of chef Ernesto achieved his own Asian cuisine, inspired by a philosophy of good and clean
Tonetto, who has worked in several Michelin star just a living. The culinary team led by chef Mai has united the
Michelin-starred restaurants year after opening his traditional flavours and ideas of South East Asian
around the globe, the dishes are flagship London cooking but transformed them into in a menu that is bold,
restaurant, Pollen innovative and modern. Located at the Waldorf Astoria
news
inspired by the exotic Cavalli
family. (cavalliclubdubai.com)
Street Social, in 2011. Dubai Palm Jumeirah (waldorfastoria.com/dubai), LAO
(intercontinental.com) has been exclusively designed for the property.
Restaurant
S
The island kingdom’s award- ince opening in Dubai International Financial Centre in 2009,
winning Japanese eatery has Japanese restaurant and lounge, Zuma has attracted a stream of
taken the bold step of appointing regular clientele and a host of awards. Now diners in the UAE
Bahraini woman Noor Murad as capital have the opportunity to experience the restaurant’s exquisite
development chef to help update cuisine, which includes a host of exemplary sushi, sashimi and robata
and add fusion to the menu. dishes, as Zuma has opened at The Galleria, Sowwah Square on Al
Chef Noor, who first worked at Marayah Island, Abu Dhabi.
Bushido during its Ramadan Zuma founder Rainer Becker had reportedly been eyeing a venue in Abu
transformation to Bushra says: Dhabi since 2009 and tasked interior designer Noriyoshi Muramatsu of
‘Born into a family with an English Studio Glitt with the challenge of creating a unique restaurant space utilising
mother and Bahraini father, I’ve the four core materials – stone, glass, wood and steel – that are evident in
always felt that I have a good all Zuma venues.
grasp on both Eastern and The expansion into Abu Dhabi is being led by Ajaz Sheikh, managing
Western cultures. This in turn has director for Zuma Middle East and Turkey and he has selected the line-up
made me very open to new for the Abu Dhabi restaurant, which includes general manager, Ilir Caushi,
concepts, ideas, people and executive chef, Reif Othman, who extends his current role running the Zuma
places.’ (Bushido.com.bh) Dubai kitchen, Pawel Kazanowski as head chef and world-beating bartender
Jimmy Barrat also expanding his role to become regional bar manager.
P R E M I U M E V E R Y D AY
confidential
Dubai Creek is getting nostalgic over garlic
Kitchen
What I’m cooking with...
I love wild garlic, which is just starting butter with a twist of pepper and salt… ‘Wild garlic
to come into season in the UK now Lovely! In the restaurant I try to create
(April). It has a short season so it’s a vegetarian dishes with the wild garlic to
is so tender
crime for chefs not to use it. As it just showcase its flavour. now, full
comes into season it is full of flavour I love purple sprouting broccoli, of flavour
so for a chef there’s really not much to asparagus and nettles which are also
do apart from treat the ingredient with just starting to come into season in the and not too
the respect it deserves and cook it UK now. Again, lovely produce that woody and
nicely. Wild garlic should not be need very little doing to them when in its subtle
overpowered with too many other their prime.
flavours, just let it do its job and allow In Dubai I can basically get any flavour really
its natural flavour to dominate the dish. ingredient imported, however I try to adds a lovely
Wild garlic is so tender now, full of use local produce where possible but
mild garlicky
flavour and not too woody, and its it is quite limiting. I do believe things are
subtle flavour really adds a lovely starting to improve in the UAE and flavour to
mild garlicky flavour to pasta, rice farmers are starting to add more to the pasta, rice
and soup. range, which I find very exciting and
I tend to source the wild garlic from impressive in this heat.
and soup.’
the UK; it goes crazy in the spring
time. I remember as a child walking Who I’m using...
through our local forest and the whole I have a few great suppliers, but
floor would be covered with wild garlic Lootha is great for the special items
What’s in
and the smell was so strong. If only I from the UK and France.
knew what to do with it then… A Ingredients can be quite expensive
chef’s dream! from the high import costs from all
When at home I would just simply my suppliers, and I’m still trying to
Radishes
Pink, purple, red – whatever their outer shade, these small root vegetables are
cruncy and punchy on the inside, and fresher than spring itself, says Clarissa Hyman
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY; PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES
Wit& wisdom
It is the presence of mustard oil in
radishes that gives them a pungent kick.
Radishes contain raphanol, which
promotes the emptying of the gall
bladder, hence they are helpful for
passing gallstones.
A ‘radish communist’ used to
describe someone who claimed
communist beliefs but was not really
committed to them – that is, a red
appearance but a white core.
A
re you sitting comfortably? Then, I’ll are not necessarily all they seem has Food historian Alan Davidson notes there are
begin. Once upon a time there was stayed with me. Maybe it’s because their a number of pictures and written references
a little Chinese boy who planted a beautiful, flushed fuchsia shading and to radishes in archeological findings; an
radish seed. It grew and grew until it was creamy white never really prepare you for account by the ancient Greek historian
the size of a ping-pong ball, then a rice bowl their peppery bite. They are, perhaps, the Herodotus suggests the slaves who built
and finally as big as the little boy himself. first introduction many children have to the pyramids were given rations of radishes,
He tugged and tugged at the leaves but gardening, since they are easy to cultivate onions and leeks. Mention of cultivation
couldn’t pull it up: one by one he asked his from seed and mature quickly, sometimes in China dates back a mere 2,000 years
mother, father, grandparents, sisters and in less than a month. Successive sowings by comparison, and by the 16th century,
brothers, the dog, cat and mice to help, will provide a constant supply throughout radishes were commonplace throughout
until at last they all pulled together and the the summer, although they must be lifted the New World, having been taken to the
enormous radish burst out of the ground. young. Gardener-cook Sarah Raven says Americas by the Spanish and Portuguese.
This popular fable is meant to teach the you don’t even need a garden to grow Radishes – Raphanus sativus – vary
virtues of mutual help in accomplishing them: simply sow them in plastic guttering greatly in colour and size: they are related
a task – although the first time I heard and place on a window ledge or doorstep. to turnips and to horseradish, hence their
it, I dreamt of being squashed flat by a The radish, a member of the Brassica peppery taste. We are most familiar with
terrifying, giant, rampaging radish. Well, I family, was probably first cultivated by the ‘table’ radishes, which have small, reddish-
was only six. But the thought that radishes ancient Egyptians, over 5,000 years ago. pinky-purple roots and crisp
Wit& wisdom
Peter Rabbit famously ate a
radish variety known as Long
Scarlet in the Beatrix Potter book.
In Oaxaca, Mexico, every 23
December – known as Night of
the Radishes – local craftsmen
carve impressive figures out of
giant radish specimens.
The word ‘radish’ comes from
the Latin word radix for root.
white flesh, and are at their best from or light-green exterior reveals pleasantly pods are juicy and snappy but with the
April to June. Hot, dry weather generally pungent, bright pink flesh, hence its name. same peppery bite as the root. Dorothy
makes for a spicier radish. In contrast, Growing radishes may be child’s play Hartley noted in Food in England (1954) that
hydroponically grown, year-round radishes but their taste is decidedly grown-up. The the pods make a good, lively pickle. As she
mostly taste bland and watery. French know how best to eat them: raw, lyrically described, ‘The clear green pods in
For flavour and texture, Sarah Raven with their perky green tops still on, slathered a dish of pellucid pickled onions make a jade
recommends that home gardeners seek with good butter and sprinkled with sea and pearl symphony that belies its potency.’
out the round Cherry Belle, which look salt, together with slices of fresh baguette Radishes can also be stir-fried, braised,
like fruit gobstoppers, although the more to temper their sharpness. And it is très steamed and roasted, although cooking
widely available French Breakfast have an snob to serve them as a pre-dinner nibble reduces some of their spiciness. Winter
interesting oblong shape. A winter varietal along with quail’s eggs and celery salt. radishes are generally too big to serve
that stores well is Black Spanish Round Although there is much to be said for whole, and have a coarser skin, so can
(though it is rarely seen in Spain), shaped the classic French approach, radishes do be peeled and cut into chips or slices, or
like a fat beetroot with rough, dark skin. pair well with either creamy or salty sheep’s grated. Daikon is used in a variety of ways
Even larger are some Asian radishes such milk cheeses as well as with citrus fruit and – in curries, as the basis for pickles, in
as the giant cylindrical white daikon, or nutty grains. They can also add a satisfying Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches and even
mooli, which can grow a foot in size and bit of crunch when finely chopped in a in Korean kimchi. Sliced wafer-thin, they are
have a fairly mild flavour. Rat’s Tail radishes potato or tuna salad. Translucent slices add delicious in clear noodle soups or in oriental
are grown for their edible seed pods. delicate grace to a green leaf salad. salads with a sesame dressing. If you run out
An unusual heirloom variety is the Every part of the radish is edible: small, of ideas, you could always teach yourself the
Watermelon radish (aka Chinese Red Meat fresh, homegrown leaves can make a art of Thai vegetable carving. Just don’t try it
or Beauty Heart): when cut, the white surprisingly good pesto, and the seed with one the size of the little Chinese boy’s.
W
hen I arrive in Mantua, it’s wrapped in a blanket of fog. Clockwise from top
Muted shades of terracotta and ochre from the city’s left: torta delle rose at
noble palazzi emerge in pools of light from lamps along its Panificio Freddi; try
winding, medieval streets. Sheltering under their arched porticoes, the local charcuterie
I take refuge in the buzzing Bar Venezia and order a glass of at a salumeria;
Palazzo Ducale’s
grape and a plate of local salami.
Hall of the Rivers;
A poster displays a Leonardo da Vinci portrait of Isabella d’Este, 16th-century ‘ideal
the city’s Renaissance ruler. Her marriage in 1490 to Francesco II city’ Sabbioneta;
Gonzaga, Marquess of Mantua, when she was just 16, heralded the Mantua’s colourful
city’s cultural golden age. Highly educated, the brilliant Isabella farmers’ market; an
came from the nearby city-state, Ferrara. In Mantua she grew into informal osteria on
one of Italy’s most influential and inspiring humanists: her patronage the main square; its
of the period’s cutting-edge artists, architects and musicians made local salami with
Mantua’s court – and banquets – the envy of Europe. mostarda; artisan
One Renaissance writer described a ‘meat and fish’ banquet for brew at the farmers’
market; Mantua’s
104 guests that Isabella attended in 1529 at her father’s palace in
duomo; Aquila Nigra’s
Ferrara. It featured 25 sugar sculptures depicting the trials of agnoli; duck at Dal
Hercules, and a list of courses that runs over five pages: 2,000 Pescatore and its
oysters, 25 stuffed peacocks, fried turbots and roasted goats, 125 dining room
eels, a dozen songbirds per person and enough animals, birds and
fish to fill a zoo, plus rare fruits and nuts, spices and sweetmeats.
There were theatrical and musical interludes, and after dinner guests
danced until dawn. This was entertaining on a grand scale.
The Gonzagas’ 500-room palace complex, Palazzo Ducale, is as
big as seven football pitches and dominates Piazza Sordello, the
city’s main square. It houses remarkable works by Mantegna and
Rubens, the court’s official painters, and by Pisanello and Giulio
Romano. The most famous room, and a mecca for art pilgrims, is
Mantegna’s ‘Camera degli Sposi’, an intimate chamber covered
completely in illusionistic frescoes depicting the artist’s
Travel information
Italy is one hour ahead of GMT. Currency is the euro. Mantua is situated
in the northern Lombardy region, 40km southwest of Verona. April
temperatures are mild, with an average high of 18°C and average low
of 7°C. The hottest month is July, with an average high of 28°C. The
city is a 45-minute train ride from Verona, or two hours from Milan.
GETTING THERE
Emirates (emirates.com) flies direct from Dubai to Milan Malpensa daily,
with a journey time of six hours 45 minutes.
Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) flies direct from Doha to Milan
Malpensa, with a journey time of six hours 25 minutes.
RESOURCES
Mantova Tourism (mantovatourism.it) is the city’s official tourist portal,
featuring itineraries on the city and its surrounding province.
FURTHER READING
The Art of Mantua: Power and Patronage in the Renaissance by
Barbara Furlotti and Guido Rebecchini (Getty Publications, $84.66).
Mantua’s history is inseparable from that of the Gonzagas, the family that
ruled from 1328 to 1708. This book covers different chapters in the
city’s life, and is filled with beautiful photographs and illustrations.
Left to right: Nadia Santini and son Giovanni of Dal Pescatore; setting the scene at Il Cigno Trattoria dei Martini; pumpkins at Dal Pescatore
Nigra, a fine, traditional restaurant near Palazzo Ducale. When I visit, Food glossary
she’s baking pumpkin for her filling. ‘Some leave out the amaretti but Anatra Duck
that hint of almond bitterness complements the sweet pumpkin and Asino/Somarina Donkey
the salty Grana Padano we grate on top,’ she says. And that’s Cotechino Sausage, served hot
what’s so great about Italian food: cooks, instead of cluttering Grana Padano A PDO cheese made
dishes with too many ingredients, keep each recipe focused on its in the Po valley
central flavours. Vera rolls out her sfoglia (pasta sheet) thin enough Luccio River pike
for the orange filling to show through, folding the pasta over Lumache Snails
tablespoonfuls of pumpkin paste and cutting it deftly into plump Rana Frog
squares. She boils them quickly then serves them in a shallow Saltarei Freshwater shrimp
bowl, with melted butter and a grating of cheese. Salumeria Delicatessen that
I’m feasting on pumpkin tortelli for lunch and dinner. They’re on specialises in charcuterie
every menu and it’s fascinating to see how each woman varies the Secondi Second or main courses
theme. Yes – each woman. For I’ve discovered that the best Sfoglia Pasta sheet from which
restaurants in Mantua are in the hands of female chefs. They cook noodles or tortelli are cut
in traditional – if lighter – ways: this is not the city for avant-garde Zucca Pumpkin
manipulations or food play. I’m not sure I’d want my tortelli
deconstructed, anyway. I like them just as they are: a comforting VERA BINI’S SBRISOLONA
serving of soul food that’s firmly rooted in Mantua’s cultural history. MANTOVANA DESSERT
‘Mantova has always been una terra di buongustai – a land of RECIPES START ON PAGE 116
epicures,’ a scholarly diner at the next table tells me proudly as
we discuss our primi piatti. ‘Michelangelo drew tortelli on a
pictogram he made for his deaf cook to illustrate what he wanted
for lunch.’ It was thought that pumpkin tortelli were a Renaissance
dish, but recent research pushes their roots back to the Middle
Ages, if not earlier.
Pasta here comes two ways: wet and dry. Thumbnail-sized agnoli
are stuffed with lightly spiced meat paste and served in bowls of
steaming meat or chicken broth, in brodo. For extra punch, try
agnoli in sorbir, where a splash of sparkling red grape is added to
the broth at the table – but make sure it’s good quality or the result
can be sour. Fettuccine noodles, ravioli and tortelli are mostly
presented ‘dry’ on their plates, with just a sauce or melted butter.
Other primi include the unusual rice dish riso alla pilota, whose
cooking style leaves the rice granular rather than creamy.
There are many types of fresh pasta at Panificio Freddi, a large,
lively bakery and pasta shop, which produces Mantua’s best
breads and cakes, including la torta di tagliatelle, bathed in liquor
and topped with sweet noodles and almonds. It also bakes a fine
version of Mantua’s favourite dessert, la torta sbrisolona. You’ll find
this flat, almond-studded cake in every bakery and on
‘Isabella d’Este was one of Italy’s most influential humanists: her patronage of the period’s
every menu; it’s best eaten with the hands by breaking off chunks, a lot like beef. The city’s aqueous origins are also reflected in some
like knobbly shortbread. And if pumpkin’s not your thing, fear not. of its key dishes, from frogs and pike to duck.
Mantua’s cuisine is mainly meat driven. The best place to buy seasonal vegetables and rub shoulders
Horses were venerated in courtly circles, as the magnificent Sala with the locals is the Saturday farmers’ market, set up along the
dei Cavalli reveals. Painted in the 1520s by Giulio Romano in narrow canal, Lungorio IV Novembre. It’s a great scene, with many
Palazzo Te, the Gonzagas’ pleasure palace on the other side of food artisans hawking their wares, from honey to home-cured
town, the lofty salon’s frescoes feature life-sized, full-body portraits salami. To learn how to cook like a Mantuan, Le Tamerici holds
of the family’s steeds. The other must-see room here is the frequent cooking classes in English and Italian from its mostarda-
Camera dei Giganti, in which careering 3D giants seem to be making workshop outside town. It also has a well-stocked shop for
bringing the whole building down on our heads. preserves and other quality foods.
Despite this reverence for their four-legged friends, the Italians Il Cigno restaurant is decorated with 20th-century art and has a
are less sentimental about animals than some nations. So, if you’re pretty garden for summer dining. Here the modest Sandra Martini
squeamish, steer clear of another Mantuan favourite, brasato di cooks wonderful, pared-down Mantuan food from her 16th-century
somarina or stracotto d’asino, otherwise known as stewed donkey. kitchen. A warm rabbit salad is livened up with pistachios, pine
It’s cooked in a hearty grape sauce, served with polenta and tastes nuts, redcurrants and juniper berries. Her large pumpkin tortello
comes alone, like a roomy cushion, and contrasts the almond’s
Where to shop bitterness with the faint piquancy of homemade apple mostarda.
A fine-boned shoulder of Apennine kid is cooked in butter and
Gastronomia Il Tagliere This small shop stocks the best assortment of served with artichokes. ‘We want to maintain Mantua’s food culture,’
authentic artisan cheeses and salamis, with some ready-cooked foods explains her dapper husband, Gaetano, as he pours the grape.
and all the trimmings. Perfect for picnics and presents. Via Principe ‘There’s a risk these ancient recipes will die out if diners keep
Amedeo 22, 00 39 0376 321200, iltaglieremantova.com clamouring for fast food and modern dishes.’
La Maison du Chocolat et… A fantastic gelato and chocolate shop. A short drive from Mantua – and a must for lovers of high
Indulge. Via Oberdan 8, 00 39 0376 321081 gastronomy – is Ristorante dal Pescatore, an elegant country
Panificio Freddi Breads, pastas, cakes: this is where the locals shop. restaurant whose chef, Nadia Santini, was lauded as World’s Best
Don’t miss the sbrisolona crumb cake – a Mantuan speciality. Female Chef in 2013 at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards.
Piazza Cavallotti 7, 00 39 0376 321418, panificiofreddi.it Nadia and her family also hold the Italian record for
Where to stay
Broletto Very centrally located, recently refurbished three-star,
close to the shops and cafés. Doubles from $123. Via Accademia 1,
00 39 0376 326784, hotelbroletto.com
Casa Museo Palazzo Valenti Gonzaga This historic palazzo offers
three B&B suites with original frescoes and antique furnishings.
Sleep in the room of a princess or a cardinal. Doubles from $171.
Via Pietro Frattini 7, 00 39 0376 364524, valentigonzaga.com
Casa Poli Modern-style, four-star hotel in the city centre, halfway
between the two big Palazzi, Ducale and Te. Doubles from $161.
Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 32, 00 39 0376 288170, hotelcasapoli.it
Hotel Rechigi If you crave a design hotel with modern art, this four-
star in the city centre is your best bet. Doubles from $163. Via Calvi
Pietro Fortunato 30, 00 39 0376 320781, rechigi.com
Palazzo Arrivabene A handsome 15th-century private palazzo
offering three spacious rooms. Doubles from $163. Via Fratelli
Bandiera 20, 00 39 0376 328685, palazzoarrivabene.net
Palazzo Castiglioni Just five rooms but my they’re grand. Period
furnishings and piazza views. Doubles from $217. Piazza Sordello
12, 00 39 0348 8034576, palazzocastiglionimantova.com
‘Mantua was originally surrounded by water. Seen from the far bank, the city resembles
a crown, with crenelated towers and cupolas rising above its encircling walls’
Main: sugar cane workers in the Pinar del Rio region, west of Havana; mangos are harvested; a worker at Alamar Agroponico; farms in the
‘If pumpkin’s not your thing, fear not. Mantua’s cuisine is mainly meat driven. Its aqueous
origins are also reflected in some of its key ingredients, from frogs and pike to duck’
Don’t miss
‘The handover to the younger generation is key in Italy’s restaurants Boat trip on the Mincio river This waterway flows from Lake Garda
if we want to give our children a chance,’ says Antonio. ‘Architecture through Mantua towards the Po and the sea, and is a wild bird and
and art may be frozen in time but our culinary culture needs to be nature sanctuary. Boat cruises leave from Grazie, near Mantua, and a
revitalised – in keeping with tradition – if it’s to survive.’ Such an two-hour trip costs $13. Grazie, 00 39 0376 349292, fiumemincio.it
approach bodes well for the future of one of the most delicious, Cooking lessons at Le Tamerici This artisan company produces
beautiful and unspoiled parts of Italy. Mantua’s traditionalism is its mostarda from many fruits and vegetables and offers Mantuan cooking
best selling point – go there and taste for yourself the authentic, classes in English and Italian. Via Romana Zuccona 208, San Biagio di
satisfying soul food that generations of women have been preparing Bagnolo, 00 39 0376 253371, letamericisrl.com
with love from Isabella d’Este’s time to the present day. Sabbioneta Situated 30km south-west of Mantua, this magnificent
16th-century ‘ideal city’ was the brainchild of Vespasiano Gonzaga
Carla Capalbo and Stefano Scatà were both guests of Mantova Colonna and is today a Unesco World Heritage Site. Its splendid
Tourism (mantovatourism.it). architecture includes the first purpose-built theatre of the modern world.
Above: Mincio Natural Park is a green oasis near Mantua. Below: fishermen ply their trade on the Mincio river, and show off one of their carp
Delicate
DESIRES For sweet bites that are bound to impress, try this light, luxurious
patisserie selection – small yet big on flavour. Serve your favourites
after dinner or spread out for an afternoon tea with an exclusive edge
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES
PASSION FRUIT
AND RASPBERRY
MILLEFEUILLES
40
22 FOOD && TRAVEL
FOOD TRAVEL
Arrivals
DRINKS
APRICOT, WHITE
CHOCOLATE
AND HAZELNUT
AND HAZELNUT
AND HAZELNUT
F&T WINE
MATCH Ripe
and round
American viognier
( McManis Family
Vineyards, 2011)
Delicate
CHILLI
CHOCOLATE
ALMOND TARTS
ESPRESSO SUCCES
Delicate
MINI ROSE ECLAIRS
S U N DAY B E ST
A lazy brunch or lunch of pure indulgence adds a wow factor to the weekend. Marcus Verberne,
head chef of Roast at London’s Borough Market, picks some of the best for you to try this Easter
to
shows us how to add
an inspired modern
twist to recipes
handed down through
the generations
WEST
SPAGHETTI COOKED IN MILK
T
POTATO AND ARISH BALLS
RECIPES START ON PAGE 116 WORLD FOOD
FOOD
FOOD && TRAVEL
TRAVEL 53
23
MIDDLE EASTERN LAMB DUMPLINGS
RECIPES START ON PAGE 116
WORLD FOOD
1
BITE OF THE CHERRY, USA
Swap April showers for cherry blossom along the east coast of the
States, where the pretty petals fall like confetti – a spectacular
spring spectacle without heading all the way to Japan, the home of
the cherry blossom tree. Start in New York, where Brooklyn Botanic
Photography by Antonio M Rosario; Assessorato Turismo Regione Siciliana; Authentic Adventures; © NBTC
Garden (bbg.org) has over 200 cherry trees from 42 Asian species.
Philadephia’s Subaru Cherry Blossom Festival (subarucherryblossom.
org) runs 2-13 April, while Washington DC’s festival runs until 13 April
1
(nationalcherryblossomfestival.org), celebrating the 1912 gift of 3,000
cherry trees from the Mayor of Tokyo.
2
RUNNING RIOT, SICILY
It’s not often that artists spend days lovingly crafting their work,
only for it to be destroyed. However, every third week in May, the
Infiorata di Noto in the baroque city of Noto sees just that. Locals and
visitors alike take over Via Nicolaci, creating colourful floral mosaics
that look like a procession of stained-glass windows. The show comes
to an abrupt end as delighted children are invited to run riot over the
displays in an age-old tradition symbolising growth and renewal.
3
TULIP MANIA, NETHERLANDS
It would be a cardinal sin to visit the Netherlands in April
without seeing the world’s largest tulip garden. Ripe with over
7 million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths, Keukenhof is a feast for the
3
eyes and the nose. To add a little Dutch magic to your garden you can
even order bulbs to be delivered in the autumn (keukenhof.nl). Branch
out from here by car on the Bollenstreek Route. At its peak, this
series of roads leads you from Naaldwijk to Haarlem via the densest
concentration of flower fields in bloom. Don’t miss the Bulbflower
4
Parade (30 April to 4 May, bloemencorso-bollenstreek.nl), a procession
of floral floats that makes this 40km trip in exuberant style.
4
ISLAND HOPPING, GUERNSEY
Perfect for families, the annual Floral Guernsey Spring
Festival takes place this year from 26 April to 4 May. Featuring
open gardens, heritage walks, Tiny Tots planting workshops and a
special Children’s Story Garden, there will be something for everyone
at this vibrant celebration of island flora. floralguernsey.co.uk
5
FLORAL FIESTA, SPAIN
If you were thinking about visiting Córdoba, best to
go in April or May, when the days will be charged with
celebration. Thousands flock to this Andalusian city for
festivals like La Batalla de las Flores (Battle of the Flowers),
which takes place on the last Sunday in April. The ‘battle’
consists of floats decorated with paper blooms, from which
its passengers douse the crowds in bucketloads of carnation
petals. The event is closely followed in mid-May by the Patio
contests. Opening their wrought iron gates up to the public
since 1918, the locals reveal their traditional courtyards,
festooned with mosaics, fountains and floral displays. A trip
will be sure to make you yearn for a Mediterranean patio of
your own. english.turismodecordoba.org
6
6
GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT, SPAIN
For some chefs, good old black pepper just isn’t enough.
Sit down for a meal at La Calèndula in Girona (pictured,
lacalendula.net), where Iolanda Bustos uses wild herbs and flowers
in every dish. Hibiscus, calendula (marigold) and rose are all on the
menu, so expect your palate to be delighted by dishes such as herb
and mixed flower salad served with salmon and balsamic vinegar.
Girona itself will be swaddled by the annual Temps de Flors
‘Flower Season’ festival from 10-18 May (gironatempsdeflors.net).
The heritage of this Catalan city comes to life as flowers and art
take over squares, buildings and monuments. Over in the UK,
2
Pascal Aussignac is another chef who indulges his love of flowers,
at Club Gascon in London’s Smithfield. The Michelin-starred
man from southwest France creates such botanically inspired
7
dishes as primavera tulips and gladiola petals. clubgascon.com
7
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, MALTA
Vibrant spreads of wild flowers crop up amid the dramatic
cliffs, sunken valleys and unusual rock formations of Gozo
island, Malta. Authentic Adventures runs week-long treks with
flower experts who take you to ancient temples, fortifications
used by the Knights of St John and caves along the way. Seven
nights from $1,762pp, including most meals and transfers, but
not flights. authenticadventures.co.uk
8
ENGLISH GARDEN, WEST SUSSEX, UK
Father of the English flower garden, William Robinson left a
fine legacy at Gravetye Manor (above, right, gravetyemanor.
co.uk), where the borders flourish over 100 years on. Staying in
the 16th-century house is the best way to enjoy the estate with its
April and May colour, thanks to the abundance of azaleas in the
Flower Garden and thousands of daffodils in the Wild Garden.
When tulips arrive they take centre stage, set off by euphorbias,
forget-me-nots, lupins and alliums. Nearby, visit gardens like
Wakehurst Place, Borde Hill and Pashley Manor, with its tulip
festival and bluebell walk; take a flower-arranging course at The
10
Sussex Flower School (above, thesussexflowerschool.co.uk); or
ride the classic Bluebell Railway (bluebell-railway.co.uk).
9 11
HIMALAYAN HEAVEN, NEPAL
You’re not quite climbing Everest, but if you are inspired
by nature in bloom then the Himalayas put on a dazzling
display at this time of year. The mountains boast the greatest
diversity of rhododendron species in the world, ranging from
lively reds through to pinks and whites, and exploring the flower-
filled trails is a rare and unforgettable experience. An 11-day
Annapurna Trek is great for beginners – a route that leads you
through friendly Hindu villages and oak and rhododendron
forests. You’ll be walking between campsites, leaving plenty of
time to take in the stunning landscapes across terraced fields
with a backdrop of the imposing Annapurna peaks. In contrast
with nature, the trip also gives you the chance of a short stay in
the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu. From $1,731pp departing
until 20 April, including camping, meals and transport/transfers.
Excludes international flights. worldexpeditions.com
10
DANCING DAFFODILS, CUMBRIA, UK
‘I wandered lonely as a cloud, That floats on high o’er
vales and hills, When all at once I saw a crowd, A host
of golden daffodils’ – whether you go walking in solitude or with
the family in tow, be sure to make like Wordsworth and discover
the Lake District’s bountiful offering of golden-faced flowers.
Start your day with a visit to Wordsworth House and Garden, the
poet’s former home, before discovering fine Georgian buildings
in his hometown, Cockermouth, and more of the well-trodden
paths of the Cumbrian countryside. nationaltrust.org.uk
11
POP TO THE PELOPONNESE, GREECE
The Peloponnese combines archaeological sites with
splendid hill walking and rugged coastal landscapes. In
spring, its wild flowers put on a fine display, with anemones and
orchids contrasting with ancient olive groves and pine-shaded
paths. New Experience Holidays offers self-guided seven-day
trips to the outer Mani peninsula covering coastal merchants’
routes, gorge and hill walking and mountain trails. You walk from
village to village mostly following the 1,000-year-old mule paths
called kalderimis. Package from $1,040 includes accommodation
and daily baggage transfers. newex.co.uk
14 12
NATIONAL TREASURE, COTSWOLDS, UK
Gloucestershire is also perfect for an afternoon
ramble. Take yourself over to Batsford Arboretum in
the Cotswolds, which holds one of the largest private collections
of trees in the UK, as well as the National Collection of Japanese
flowering cherries. Take a walk along the fresh-scented trails and
marvel at the oaks, cherries and backdrop of beautiful magnolia
cultivars. If you’re inspired by what you find on the 23-hectare
estate, the well-stocked plant centre offers myriad herbaceous
plants, shrubs, fruit and ornamental trees, as well as imported
Mediterranean species. batsarb.co.uk
13
SPANISH ORANGES, MALLORCA
Winding its way from the historic town of Palma to
the valley of Sóller, the Orange Blossom Express is
Mallorca’s answer to the Bluebell Railway. This vintage tram
has been making its 27km commute through the Tramuntana
mountains since 1912. For the budding photographer, the snow-
like falling of vibrant orange blossom is an opportunity not to be
missed. Once you have been chugged merrily into Sóller, be sure
Photography by Nicola Croom/WE; Thomson;
© Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent
to visit the botanic garden before winding your way back down
the orange groves and into Palma. Thomson offers a one-day
excursion that includes the tram for $96pp. thomson.co.uk
14
FOLLOW THE VAN, LONDON, UK
Van Gogh’s Sunflowers are popping up in London
again. The National Gallery already holds one from the
van Gogh Foundation)
series of five, but will now be joined briefly by a second from the
Netherlands – so you can enjoy them side by side for the first time
in 65 years. The paintings were originally intended for Paul
Gauguin’s bedroom, when the artists worked together in the South
of France. Free, until 27 April. nationalgallery.org.uk
15
BALKAN BLOOMS, SLOVENIA
Do you know your Siberian iris from your purple colt’s
foot, your erect clematis from your pink cinquefoil?
Budding botanists will love Slovenia’s Julian Mountains, where
spring brings myriad blooming flowers. Naturetrek runs an
eight-day Flowers of Lake Bohinj & the Julian Alps trip, which
leads you on daily ambles around alpine, forest and meadow
habitats in search of birds, butterflies and plant species. From
$1,881 excluding flights, 19-26 June. naturetrek.co.uk
16
GOOD IMPRESSION, FRANCE
Does life imitate art? Or art imitate life? You’ll find
out on a two-centre Monet-inspired break in France.
Firstly, forget the great outdoors and head to Paris and the Musée
de l’Orangerie, to stroke your chin in front of Claude Monet’s
famous depiction of water lilies, Les Nymphéas. Then, suitably
impressed, travel to Giverny, 80km northwest. It’s home to
the great man’s flower-strewn pink house, swaddled by divine
grounds embracing two gardens: Clos Normand, a riot of flowers,
and, more importantly for your research, a Japanese-inspired
water garden that Monet constructed in 1893. Alongside its
famous wooden bridge frescoed with wisteria, weeping willows
and bamboo woods, it boasts the fabulous nymphaea that bloom
throughout the summer. It was the first time a painter had
crafted his natural subject to this extent, before immortalising
it on canvas – and it continued to be an inspiration for over 20 ‘You’ll know you’re approaching
years; two decades of art imitating life. fondation-monet.com
17
Morocco’s Festival of Roses long
COMING UP ROSES, MOROCCO before you arrive in El-Kelaâ
Follow your nose. Quite literally. You’ll know you’re
M’Gouna – its flowering hedgerows
approaching Morocco’s Festival of Roses, a celebration
of the local sweet-scented harvest, long before you arrive in El- provide an intoxicating scent’
Kelaâ M’Gouna. Its flowering hedgerows provide an intoxicating
scent, belonging to the Persian rose – also known as the cabbage
18
DYNAMIC DUO, FRANCE
I say Jekyll, you say… Lutyens. It was a partnership of
visionaries – architect Sir Edwin Lutyens and garden
designer Gertrude Jekyll together created some truly stunning
properties. Considered by many as their greatest collaboration,
Le Bois des Moutiers in Varengeville-sur-Mer, Normandy, hosts
the spring flowering of species from blue azaleas to andromedas
from March to May. Situated near the port of Dieppe, the house
is incredibly easy to get to, so there is no excuse not to visit this
‘lovechild’ of the wonderful duo (boisdesmoutiers.com).
Right: hunting
for Lionfish is
encouraged on this
trip. Below, left to
right: Iguazu Falls;
favela kids; Vitória,
Brazil, one of the
volunteering bases
19
19
URBAN OASIS, LONDON, UK
Walk into Petersham Nurseries and it will be hard to
believe you’re in the Big Smoke. Tucked away from
the hustle and bustle, Richmond’s hidden gem is a lesson in being
in touch with nature. Particularly the restaurant, whose dishes
are assembled with ingredients from the kitchen garden – like
nasturtium flowers for a salad or ripe quinces to be served with
a game bird. Or just pop in for a stroll around, a slice of cake from
the tearoom or an antique from the shop. petershamnurseries.com
20
POPPY APPEAL, ITALY
Think of poppies and you’d be forgiven if Italy wasn’t
the first place to spring to mind. However, the rolling
17
hills of Umbria are a wonderful host to the iconic flowers. Carpets
of poppies exist peacefully alongside narcissi, yellow tulips and
rare orchids. Ramble through the technicoloured fields on ATG
Oxford’s Flowers of Umbria tour (18-25 May), on which you
will be led to medieval towns, including the walled Norcia in the
valley of Monti Sibillini. Build up a healthy appetite for the local
truffles, meats and salamis, as well as prized grapes from Spoleto
and Orvieto. From $4,022pp, including hotels, meals, transfers
and guided tours. Excludes flights. atg-oxford.co.uk
Photography by Hands Up Holidays; Belize National Tourist Board; tional
COOKING
CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA AUSTRALASIA MIDDLE EAST
NORTH AMERICA ASIA MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA AUSTRALASIA
AUSTRALASIA NORTH AMERICA NORTH AMERICA ASIA MIDDLE
ASIA MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA
NORTH AMERICA ASIA MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA AUSTRALASIA
CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA AUSTRALASIA MIDDLE EAST
Words by Clarissa Hyman and Alicia Miller. Jordan photography by Martin Thompson
markets, farms and orchards, plus time to explore the Rose City,
float in the Dead Sea and visit Mount Nebo from which Moses
viewed the ‘Promised Land’. holidayonthemenu.com
‘In Valparaíso, sample dishes you are likely to learn include caldillo de congrio, a
rich fish and vegetable soup, razor clams on the half shell and corn and beef pie’
A TASTE OF PERU FOR FOODIES, LIMA & CUSCO, PERU BELCAMPO, BELIZE
If Peru had only given us the ceviche, it would suffice – but by A plush jungle lodge and organic farm set in the hills over a
the end of this seven-day trip, participants will understand 4,855-hectare nature reserve in southern Belize, Belcampo is
exactly how and why Peruvian cuisine has become increasingly a seriously seductive hideaway. There are a number of culinary
appreciated and fashionable. Based in Lima and Cusco, the experiences on offer but sign up for the bean-to-bar class to learn
course is a good balance of hands-on cooking, demonstrations, how to transform cacao into chocolate, then that chocolate into
tasting menus and excursions. It takes in native, ‘criolla’ and the likes of a Mayan choco pud. belcampobz.com
traditional foods and ingredients, from the Andes to the Amazon,
as well as new-style Peruvian cooking and the unique Peruvian- THE INTERNATIONAL KITCHEN, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
Japanese fusion cuisine. There are various farm visits, including Grilled beef and local grape, empañadas and local grape, pasta
a special lesson on potatoes. And, if you come back without and local grape, chimichurri sauce and... well whatever the dish,
knowing how to make the world’s best pisco sour, well… you’ll Argentina has the perfect grape to match. Visits to some of the
simply have to go back again. activegourmetholidays.com numerous Maipú vineyards and bodegas just a few miles from
the park-and-plaza-filled city of Mendoza are included in a five-
DIEGO RUETE, MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY night package, as well as two cooking classes and a spectacular
When in Uruguay, and Montevideo in particular, chances are high mountain tour. One of the small hands-on classes focuses
you’ll be going big on beef. Which is partly why a cookery course on traditional Mendocinian cooking; the other, at the Finca
with chef Diego Ruete is so refreshing; he’ll teach you to cook Adalgisa Boutique Hotel & Winery, uses freshly harvested,
lots of vegetable-rich local dishes too, imparting his wisdom on homegrown ingredients cooked in a clay oven and over an open
Uruguayan culture and traditions along the way. cook-o.com fire with the farm’s Arauca olive oil. theinternationalkitchen.com
end of a course at Chilean Cuisine, you’ll be an expert mixologist of Mexican) in small groups; sign up for several days and work
(for this cocktail, at least). Valparaíso is a glorious Unesco World your way through the roster of staples including pepián (stew),
Heritage city with a vibrant food culture, and Chilean Cuisine chiles rellenos (stuffed chillies), hilachas (shredded beef and
offers a flexible plan so you can ‘customise’ your cooking holiday, potato) and frijoles colorados (red beans with meat). frijolfeliz.com
spending either a day, a few days or a week cooking traditional
Chilean dishes from a daily changing menu of your choice. SKY KITCHEN, LIMA, PERU
Hands-on classes start with a market trip to buy fresh, local, Eating a meal on an open rooftop in the beating heart of Lima
seasonal ingredients with your teacher, and have a minimum of is an experience in itself, even if you haven’t cooked the food.
two and maximum of eight to ten participants. Sample dishes But all the better when you have – and at Sky Kitchen, which
you are likely to learn include caldillo de congrio, a rich fish and is held in chef Yurac’s home, you’ll be preparing a minimum of
vegetable soup, razor clams on the half shell and corn and beef three typical dishes under chef’s watchful gaze. Master the all-
pie. You can also combine one of the day’s classes with a visit to important ceviche, or opt for the Andean delicacies course for a
the vineyards of Casablanca Valley. cookingclasseschile.cl taste of some lesser-known Peruvian classics. skykitchen.pe
‘The region of Oaxaca stands out on the Mexican culinary map for its mouthwatering
moles and pre-hispanic roots… among its many unexpected twists are pan-fried
grasshoppers, iguana meat, giant topped tortillas, exotic fruits and chocolate’
SHERMAY’S, SINGAPORE
Singapore’s virtual smorgasbord of culinary traditions makes it a
great place to try your hand at various cuisines. Half-day classes
at Shermay’s specialise in a rainbow of culinary traditions, with
themes including Southeast and South Asian breads (dosas, naan
and roti among them) or Cooking with Lard (much better than
it sounds – think about perfecting Chinese pastry, yam paste or
frying techniques). shermay.com
HONG KONG
SEOUL
FOOD & TRAVEL 79
ASIA
cookery schools
Indian cuisine is
incredibly varied,
so dive in with a
cookery course
in situ to show
you the way
‘Expect the likes of Keralan chicken stew, duck curry and egg roast – all
washed down at the end of the day with a glass of “toddy”’
Keeping
left to right: an Aria
suite; Yagua Indian
chief; Queen Violeta;
G-Adventures takes
you off exploring
CURRENT
New floating palaces, jam-packed itineraries
and awe-inspiring routes – Gabriella Le Breton
gets the lowdown on the latest in river cruising,
spanning waterways from Burma to Peru
82 FOOD &
YANGTZE, CHINA
A cruise down the Yangtze river is like a voyage to a different world:
its emerald banks shrouded in myth and legend, and landmarks
such as the epic Three Gorges set to take your breath away. The
engineering feats are equally awe-inspiring. With so much to take
in, you need a floating hotel that will be a proper sanctuary. Cue
Century Paragon, a new five-star ship launching this year on the
Yangtze. Uniworld is offering a trip that includes this cruise, as
part of a voyage from Shanghai to Beijing. The 398-passenger
Century Paragon is packed with facilities such as a cinema, library,
spa, pool and boutique. It also offers cultural classes and events
including Tai Chi, folk dancing and Chinese calligraphy, as well
as two restaurants serving local and international cuisine. The
perfect partner to the splendour of Shanghai, Xi’an’s Terracotta
Army and Beijing’s Forbidden City.
THE DETAIL Uniworld’s (uniworld.com) 12-day Treasures
of China and the Yangtze cruise and tour from $4,249pp,
departing from April. Includes accomodation, most meals and
guided excursions.
84
86 FOOD & TRAVEL
RIVER CRUISES
Above: Yangon Shwedagon Pagoda in Burma. Below, left to right: AmaPura and suite; Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda; Irrawaddy Explorer and suite
IRRAWADDY, BURMA
Burma is one of the world’s most mysterious and fascinating Austrian-based Lüftner Cruises, best known for its
places, and has long been one of its most elusive. However, with sophisticated Amadeus ships on Europe’s rivers, is also launching
tourism starting to grow – as the country transitions away from a new ship in Burma: the 56-passenger, colonial-style Irrawaddy
a military government – its architectural and cultural splendour Explorer. On the Mysterious Myanmar cruise, the voyage will
now await your discovery. The best way to explore this land of start in Prome, northwest of Yangon, and take in picturesque
temples, pagodas and colonial treasures is by river, meandering villages such as Yandabo and Mingun, with its eerie clusters of
gently through its heart along the Irrawaddy. AmaWaterways unfinished pagodas. Other highlights include Bagan, Mandalay
China photography courtesy of Uniworld
is launching two voyages aboard the new AmaPura later this and Amarapura. In addition to its Burma programme, Lüftner
year. With just 28 contemporary suites, all featuring balconies, will be launching voyages on the Mekong and Ganges this
autumn aboard the Mekong Navigator and Ganges Voyager,
Boutique River Cruise Collection
‘Sailing from New Orleans, you can follow the history of one of America’s biggest rivers,
MISSISSIPPI, USA
Photography by American Cruise
Sailing from New Orleans, you have the opportunity to follow ship will be calling in at places such as Mississippi’s first capital,
the history of one of America’s biggest rivers, the Mississippi; the Natchez, vibrant Baton Rouge and cotton fields before returning
route lined with gracious sugar cane plantations, quintessential to the ‘Capital of Jazz’. The Queen of the Mississippi evokes the
Southern towns and historic battlefields. American Cruise luxury of grand antebellum mansions, offering passengers the
Lines; Steve Orino
Lines’ Queen of the Mississippi has changed the face of cruising largest staterooms on the river, a magnificent dining room, well-
here, being the first new vessel built for the river in nearly 20 stocked library and chart room, six lounges and a putting green.
years. With her classic tiered decks and red paddlewheel, she THE DETAIL American Cruise Lines’ (americancruiselines.
blends 21st-century maritime technology and mod cons with com) eight-day round-trip from New Orleans, from $4,162pp,
the grandeur of classic American riverboats. On a round-trip, the full board; price excludes shore excursions and flights.
as you call at sugar plantations, quintessential Southern towns and historic battlefields’
the surface of a selection of destinations. off once you set foot on dry land. Sailing aboard Inspire, you are
Tourist Office/Himsl/Hahn F
Meanwhile, family-owned travel company Tauck is launching able to follow the Rhine as it winds from Basel all the way to
a new class of river cruise ship this year, with the Savor operating Amsterdam – some of its calling points being Heidelberg Castle,
on the Danube and the Inspire on the Rhine and Moselle. The Cologne and the 2,000-year-old town of Koblenz, .
new vessels will raise the bar in terms of space per passenger on THE DETAIL Emerald Waterways’ (emeraldwaterways.com)
river ships, accommodating up to 130 guests, whereas current eight-day Danube Delights voyages from $2,225pp full board,
ships of a similar size host up to 190. The pair will each feature 67 including port charges and excursions. Tauck’s (tauck.co.uk)
cabins, of which eight will be ‘loft’ designs, which feature a raised eight-day Romantic Rhine from $3,989pp, including most meals,
platform seating area by virtually double-height picture windows. shore excursions, and transfers; excludes flights.
RHONE AND SAONE, FRANCE Photography by Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection
Boutique river cruise line Uniworld is already celebrated for Sample the cuisine of Lyon with Viking River Cruises, which
its six-star luxury fleet, the only cruise ships to have received lays claim to the world’s largest river cruise fleet. By the end of
a Zagat rating for dining, but it has set a new benchmark with the year, it will have launched a record 30 new ships within just
the launch of its latest ship, SS Catherine. At 135m long, SS three years. Many of these are Viking Longships: 190-passenger
Catherine is one of Uniworld’s largest ships yet she carries ships with clean, Scandinavian-style interiors and hybrid diesel-
just 159 passengers – the additional space affords spacious electric engines, which reduce environmental impact, noise
staterooms, five suites of 28 sq m and, the pièce de résistance, and vibration. Other innovative touches include an indoor/
the 38 sq m Royal Suite. Gracing the Rhône and Saône, SS outdoor ‘Aquavit Terrace’, an organic herb garden and Explorer
Catherine will usher you from Avignon to Lyon, travelling Suites – the largest river cruise suites in Europe. Two brand
through some of France’s best countryside, taking in Burgundy new Longships, Viking Buri and Viking Hermod, will launch on
and Provence. the Saône and Rhône this spring, sailing from Chalon-sur-
This trip boasts a choice of 14 excursions, so you’ll be able to Saône to Avignon over eight leisurely days.
soak up the culture of Arles, synonymous with Van Gogh, see THE DETAIL Uniworld’s eight-day Burgundy & Provence
imposing Tarascon Fortress and pay a visit to the twin cities of cruise departing April to November from $3,399pp. Viking River
Tournon and Tain -l’Hermitage, famed for its wonderful Côtes Cruises’ (vikingrivercruises.co.uk) eight-day Portraits of Southern
du Rhône grape. France voyages from $2,810pp full board and shore excursions.
in the
created a unique blend of cultures and cuisines. Rosemary Barron
crown
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GARY LATHAM
Bedouin tents and magnificent Roman ampitheatres, Jordan’s eclectic history has
takes a closer look at this spectacular and most liberal of Middle Eastern kingdoms
Enticing aromas draw you to the market herbalists with sacks full of dried lemons, hibiscus
flowers, geranium and sage, perfumed za’tar and trays of giant, dried sunflower heads
T
he Bedouin – proud desert nomads whose way of life has Amman (Ammon, in antiquity) is the site of one of the largest Stone
captured our imaginations for generations – are certainly at Age settlements so far discovered in the Middle East. Remnants
one with their environment. Their waterproof, woven goat- have been unearthed, too, from the early Bronze and Iron Ages when
hair tents allow the slightest breeze to enter so they can adapt their present-day Jordan was composed of many small states. Then
daily culinary tasks to the relentless summer heat. For celebrations, came the Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians and Greeks before the
Bedouins prepare mansaf, a glorious dish made with a whole lamb Romans re-named Ammon Philadelphia – one of the Decapolis,
and ingredients that are easily transported – rice, spices, nuts, dried or ten cities with allegiance to Rome – and built Al-Qal’a, the
laban (yoghurt), and flour. If lucky enough to be invited into their magnificent citadel whose ruins still dominate the skyline. The link
company, you’d join everyone sitting on the floor, their magnificent between these groups was their interest in the area’s importance as
platters of food displayed almost ceremoniously in the centre. a trade route. And curious visitors can readily discover the influences
Mansaf is a feast that’s made to share. Many Jordanians consider this eclectic history has had on Jordan’s modern food story.
it their national dish – an apt and altruistic choice in a country where The Romans also discovered well-trodden routeways here
visitors are greeted with the words, ‘We welcome you’. In the kitchen between the ancient empires of Egypt, Persia and Assyria. As
of Iraq Al-Amir Women’s Cooperative Society, cooks Amena, Nwer, they occupied the area they found skilled farmers, well-equipped
Latifa and Sabah prepare mansaf with chicken: ‘First, I tear shirak kitchens, olive groves, orchards, vegetable gardens and an array
(bread, stretched into thin rounds by hand and lightly baked) into of spice shops. With such a rich source of local foodstuffs and
pieces and spread these over a large tray, like this,’ demonstrates skilled labour the Romans thrived, building massive markets in the
Amena, ‘then I pour over chicken stock that we made earlier. Last shadows thrown down by their imposing citadels.
night we soaked dried laban in water, to bring it back to life; then this In Amman today, your nose will guide you from the breathtaking
morning we prepared one of our chickens, cleaning and jointing it Roman Theatre, its ampitheatre built to seat 6,000 people, to the
before cooking it in the laban with spices.’ small shops and narrow streets of the Spice Souk. Then it’s on
Over the bread she heaps rice, this too cooked in stock and spices to the noisy, well-stocked Downtown Souk nearby. Here, stalls
and, on top, the chicken pieces; over all she scatters parsley and are stacked high with seasonal produce – tomatoes, cucumbers,
almonds fried in samneh, clarified butter. Before taking it to the table, melons, peppers, apples, plums, peaches – that startle in their
Amena covers the mansaf with a round of shirak, the same size as vivid colours and intense flavours, the result of being grown with
the tray, to infuse everything beneath with the spicy steam. Lemon less water. Enticing aromas draw you, too, to the market herbalists.
wedges, bowls of rich, deep-gold stock and handfuls of fresh rocket With sacks full of dried lemons, hibiscus flowers, geranium and
accompany this treat. Later, Anam Al-Abbadi, who oversees the co- sage, perfumed za’tar, fuul (dried fava beans) and trays of giant,
operative, joins us for coffee, made gloriously aromatic with ground dried sunflower-heads heavy with seeds, your senses will be
cardamom pods and poured piping hot from a flask into small overwhelmed with the scents and sights of their distinctive wares.
cups. Coffee plays an important role in traditional society: if you’re Traders cry out, advertising their trinkets, olives and fresh herbs –
accepted, you’re served coffee – a moment of relief, no doubt, for huge bundles of mint, coriander, parsley and purslane to name
many a desert traveller passing through in the past. just a few. And, nearby, stop to enjoy some sugar cane juice with
Jordan is a relatively young country with a complex history. In 1921, the knowledge that the sweet drink has been used to refresh the
following the collapse of the Ottoman empire and Arab Revolt, the people of the Jordan Valley for over two thousand years.
French assumed influence over Lebanon and Syria; the British over To the north of Amman are more superb Roman ruins. Gadara or
the Palestinian territories, encompassing the Emirate of Transjordan Umm Qais – once described by a classical poet as ‘New Athens’
(east of the River Jordan) and the British Mandate for Palestine (west – is a place of wonder. Wander through its beautiful, colonnaded
of the river). In 1946, the emirate gained independence as The main street, taking in the stunning black-basalt theatre and carved
Hashemite Kingdom of Transjordan, with Amman as its capital (it black sarcophagi. And just over an hour away, great Jerash is a rival
was renamed The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan in 1949). Modern to the splendour of Pompeii. This is a land celebrated
To the north of Amman are more superb Roman ruins. Gadara, or Umm Qais with its colonnaded main street
and black sarcophagi – and once described as the ‘New Athens’ by a classical poet – is a place of wonder
in both the Bible and the Koran, where the forested hills and rich,
fertile valleys induce a feeling of blissful timelessness. To share a
family’s food in such a place is an extraordinary privilege. Travel information
In nearby Ajlun, host Mohamad Dwekat is justifiably proud of the The official currency is the Jordanian Dinar (JD). You can change money
beautful array of dishes that his wife, Maysoon, has cooked and in hotels and banks. Jordan is two hours ahead of GMT. The climate is hot
arranged on the courtyard table. The centrepiece, makmoora, is a Mediterranean in the west and north-west; very short, but occasionally chilly
local speciality – a delicious pie of stacked olive oil-baked pastry winters; short and distinctive springs and autumns; long, hot summers and
rounds separated by layers of both spicy meat and chicken. high summer daytime desert temperatures with no rain. Visitors will benefit
Surrounding it are bowls of lentil soup, yoghurt balls in olive oil known from cooler nights towards the south and in the east.
as labneh, warak enab or tiny stuffed vine leaves and moujadara
(lentils and rice with onion slow-cooked in olive oil and sumak). GETTING THERE
Maysoon has also prepared baba ghanoush (mashed aubergine), Royal Jordanian Airlines (rj.com) flies daily from Qatar to Amman.
Arabic salad (diced tomatoes and cucumber with parsley and tart- Emirates (emirates.com) flies daily from Dubai to Amman.
tasting sumac) and purslane (a nutrient-packed wild green that’s Gulf Air (gulfair.com) flies daily from Bahrain to Amman.
appetisingly acidic in flavour) in a yoghurt and olive oil sauce. Tea is
flavoured by sage that Mohamad plucks from a nearby bush, and RESOURCES
dessert grapes are taken straight from the courtyard vine. Jordan Tourism Board (visitjordan.com) has
Olive oil is known locally as Roman oil, giving some clue as to useful advice to help you plan your trip.
the age of some of the dignified, gnarled trees in the olive groves Wild Jordan (+962 6461 6523, rcsn.org.jo) For general ecological
that cover this region. Its flavour imbues the local cuisine as do information, maps and bookings.
dishes favoured by Palestinians, now a large proportion of Jordan’s
population. Kitchens here are simple, with a few essential tools FURTHER READING
– a large, stone mortar and pestle for kibbeh (a dish often used Jordan by Carole French (Bradt Travel Guides, $28.11). A guide to take
informally to measure the skill of a household’s cook) and a small you through the exotic mix of old-fashioned bazaars, tiny streets, desert
brass one, for herbs and spices. There’s a heavy-bottomed pan for treks and religious sites.
yoghurt-based sauces and for making samneh, and a large, round, A New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden (Penguin, $41).
shallow pan for pastries. Store-cupboard necessities include fine Reproduce some of the wonderful, exotic and wholesome foods of this
and coarse burghul or cracked wheat, tahini paste, dried beans, history-rich region in your own kitchen.
chick peas, dried mint, za’tar and rose-flower water. Jordan: Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs and Canyons by Di Taylor and
Greek-speaking and predominantly Christian Byzantium (now Tony Howard (Cicerone Press, $28.13). For the more adventurous traveller
Istanbul) had a profound effect on this land. In Madaba, south of this guide will lead you through the wonderful landscapes of Ajloun, the
Amman, there’s a stunning 6th-century mosaic map, which is the Dead Sea Hills, Dana and Wadi Rum.
oldest known depiction of the Holy Land. The surrounding area is as
richly productive now as it was back in Byzantine times – with olive
groves, fruit orchards and vineyards sweeping the landscape and
the production of forest honey in full swing.
Zumot’s Saint George grapes benefit from the unique local
growing conditions. Their distinctive characters are derived from
grapes grown as close as possible to the desert so they can take
advantage of the big fluctuations in day and night temperatures.
Jordan has been home to biblical-style plagues so I asked vigneron
Omar Zumot how he was able to grow organic grapes in such an
environment. He explained, ‘We see pests – which are plentiful –
not as something to destroy but, instead, as part of the
Outside in the
courtyard, two
Where to eat hammocks are
piled high with
Prices are per person for three courses, with mint tea, unless
otherwise stated.
just-picked
mallow, drying
Haret Jdoudna Ottoman building transformed into a series of delightful naturally in the
indoor and outdoor dining areas, a few minutes’ walk from the Mosaics
Map of the Holy Land. An array of good mezze – try the tiny cheese pies, sun before being
the baba ghanoush and fresh salads. The restaurant also serves Jordanian stored for winter
wines and beer. From $17. Adel Jumean
Street, Madaba. 00 962 5324 8650/1, haretjdoudna.com
Hashem Tiny café overflowing into an alley serving delicious and
inexpensive hummus, falafel and fuul, served with bread, chilli
pickles and piping hot mint tea. From $3. Al-Amir Mohammed
Street, downtown, Amman
Jafra Café Large, first floor café for non-acoholic drinks (try the
lemon-mint tea and fruit beers) and light meals. Popular with water-pipe
(shisha)-smokers. The balcony overlooking the street is a good
place to soak up the atmosphere of downtown Amman. From $10.
downtown Amman, opposite the main Post Office, 00 962 6462
2551, jafra-group.com
Jerusalem (Al-Quds Restaurant) Well-known for mansaf, the Bedouin
dish of meat and rice, and popular with Jordanians. This is a good place
to learn how to eat mansaf properly (with your right hand only, form each
scoop of food into a ball with thumb and two fingers and gently toss it into
your mouth, without letting your fingers touch your mouth). Large,
high-turnover restaurant that’s inexpensive and boasts a good array of
sweets and pastries. From $8. Al-Malek al-Hussein Street (downtown),
Amman 00 962 6463 0168
Sufra Sufra, meaning ‘when the meal is ready’, is an ideal spot to rest
and refresh, away from the bustle of Al-Rainbow Street. Serves Jordanian
dishes from throughout the country. Booking recommended. From
$30. Rainbow Street (corner of Uthman Bin Affan Street), Amman,
00 962 5461 1468/9 sufrajordan.com
Umm Qais Resthouse Enjoy a refreshing lemon-mint drink or a light meal
in spectacular Gadara, a Roman antiquity overlooking the Jordan Valley and
Tiberias Lake (The Sea of Galilee). From $12. Site Touristique de Gadara,
Umm Qais, 00 962 2750 0555, romero-group.com
life-cycle here. Our pigeon towers bring these birds to the area. pickle. But the Druze also enjoy their own specialities such as fatet
They have taken care of the large numbers of wasps and we’ve batinjan (baked aubergine, bread and tiny meatballs in yoghurt sauce
also planted aromatic herbs between the vines to attract aphid- with almonds) and shish barak (small pastries generously filled with
devouring small birds.’ ground lamb and onion made the Druze way using samneh, not olive
History here can be roughly measured in blocks of a few hundred oil, in a spicy, pale-ochre yoghurt sauce).
years. It wasn’t long before the Byzantines were overrun by the Outside, in the courtyard, two hammocks are piled high with just-
Ottomans and, at intervals, other followers of Muhammad – seeing picked mallow (melochia), drying naturally in the sun before Abu
Muslims replace Christians as the dominant religion. Amer or his wife store them away for their winter casseroles (the
This was a time of movements (and scatterings) of people. On the dried leaves will turn a slow-cooked sauce velvety rich).
edge of the great Eastern Desert, in Azraq, near the fortress that was Jordan’s Desert Castles fire the imagination. They’re built in places
once the headquarters of Lawrence of Arabia, Abu Amer bids us to it’s almost impossible to believe man can survive. Yet the inner walls
enter his fan-cooled house. Inside his wife, Um Amer, has prepared of 8th-century Qasr Amra – a Unesco World Heritage Site set amid
a true feast. As members of Jordan’s small Druze community (who sand dunes and miles from anywhere – are covered with murals
are also found in neighbouring Syria and Lebanon), their culinary depicting hunting and feasting. Then there’s the majestic form of
repertoire includes dishes found commonly elsewhere in Jordan – Qasr Al-Kharrana, a caravanserai (a type of inn with a courtyard for
kibbeh, moujadara, fattoush (a salad of bread, tomatoes and herbs), travellers) that rises out of the desert that can’t help but enthral.
kabsa (spicy rice with chicken and fried almonds) and green pepper You may also catch a glimpse of some
Below, from left: mint tea, Druze community; perfume shop, Amman; sunflowers; trader, downtown market, Amman
Hanover
Travel time 9 hrs
48 Sapporo
HOURS
Although rebuilt as a city custom-fit for the car, Hanover’s charm is probably best uncovered on foot. Stroll the regal
gardens of Herrenhausen, have lunch amid the bustle of the Markthalle, where locals mingle among the delis, market
stalls and coffee bars, then head to the picturesque Maschsee river, where you’ll also find the impressive Sprengel
Museum of modern art. As the cherry blossom bursts onto the scene, stroll in Odori Park, tuck in at the wide array
of casual restaurants along Ramen Alley, and become a connoisseur of the region’s fine beverages. The seafood is
sensational here – coming in fresh to the market each day – as are the views from Mount Moiwa, best seen at night
as the city twinkles. Sapporo may be located far north on Hokkaido island, but it’s a corner of Japan you must visit. In
Philadelphia, eat your way around the city via belly-busting cheesesteaks, pizza wedges and pretzels. Perfect fuel for
sightseeing, with the likes of Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell reminding you this was the birthplace of America.
World-class art galleries like Barnes Foundation and urban murals prove this city is bursting with creativity too.
HANOVER
Leine Palace with its
pretty bridge; grand
designs at the gardens
of Herrenhausen; bars
and bites around town
The capital of Lower Saxony, this city was redesigned for the motor car. Equally easy
to explore on foot, its parks, palaces and lakes are royally good, says Alex Allen
Why go? More manageable than Munich, greener than Hamburg high-quality about them, with leather lounge chairs, chrome
and with royal connections Frankfurt can only dream of, Hanover Hansgrohe fittings and soundproof windows. You’ll nod off while
is the misunderstood middle child of Germany’s urban centres. gazing at photographs of the city that look down from the ceiling.
Art, theatre and some grand historic architecture bring colour and The breakfast buffet has the regular fare, but is unusually good.
creativity to this bustling business hub. The brew’s not bad either. At Kastens Hotel Luisenhof (00 49 511 30440, kastens-luisenhof.
What to do You may be vaguely aware of a royal connection between de) rooms are luxuriously decorated, with thick-pile carpets and
the UK and Hanover somewhere down the line. The source of the tasteful colours. Leos bar is all dark wood and red leather – perfect
link in fact lies down a different kind of line – northwest out of the city for either a nightcap or just watching the world go by.
centre by tram. The jaw-dropping grounds of Herrenhausen palace Where to eat and drink? The food in Hanover largely reflects
are on a scale to rival those of Versailles, and the royal gardens the personality of its citizens; honest, loyal to tradition and best
were the dream of Sophia of Hanover, mother of King George I. accompanied by a stein of hops. That last trait may not be true of
(For 123 years, the Kingdoms of Great Britain and Hanover were all, but is certainly so at restaurant and brewery Meiers Lebenslust.
ruled by a single monarch, and 2014 marks the 300th anniversary.) Its copper fermentation tanks are polished like the engine parts of a
A set of golden gates lead out to baroque labyrinths, Greek showroom Porsche, and the small list of hops include a chocolate-
statues throwing poses, and fountains that shoot clear above hued brew that is a perfect match for the overnight-roasted duck,
the treetops. After a look around the new museum, take which is both wonderfully crispy and tender (meiers-lebenslust.
the Stadtbahn back into town – you’ll surface at Kröpcke, de). In the shadow of the striking market church, one of the few
the near-geographic centre, and heart of the shopping and pre-war buildings to have survived largely intact, is the market hall.
snacking district. A couple of pretzel-fuelled paces away you’ll Nicknamed ‘The Belly of Hanover’, it’s where butchers, bakers,
find Hanover Opera House, a 19th-century neoclassical theatre cheesemongers and grocers line up alongside coffee bars, hops
that also hosts ballet, concerts and musicals (oper-hannover. stands and food stalls, serving everything from fresh-baked pizza
de). From here, either head west to the old town, where to paella, from seafood to sausages. It’s great value, so be sure to
Bavarian-style brauhauses (brew pubs) adorn the cobbled streets, arrive hungry. On the other side of the church, Broyhan Haus (00
or south to lake Maschsee. While in the depths of winter you 49 511 323919, broyhanhaus.de) is sticking with tradition, serving
may find the surface of the Maschsee populated by skaters, in up hearty regional classics in cosy, oak-timbered surroundings.
the summer its grassy shores are perfect for picnicking. Looking If you’re after something a little more chic, Clichy (00 49 511
across it, the Sprengel Museum houses one of Germany’s largest 312447, clichy.de), in the cute Leine neighbourhood, is a good bet.
collections of modern art (sprengel-museum.com). The river Leine Time running out? Take the sloped elevator up to the dome
also makes for a waterside escape, and on its banks the pretty of the New Town Hall (with its elegant Gartensaal bistro, pictured)
Leine Palace was once the seat of Hanoverian kings. for views that stretch to the Harz mountains.
Where to stay? Located opposite the central station, Grand Hotel Trip tip: NextBike is a great scheme available throughout
Mussmann (00 49 511 36560, grandhotel.de) occupies Hanover’s Germany, and with cycle lanes provided along almost every street,
top spot for seeing the city. Its spacious rooms have that German Hanover is well suited for two-wheeled tourists. (nextbike.net)
Travel information
Currency is the euro. Hanover is one hour ahead of GMT. Resources
Travel time is 9 hours. German National Tourist Board (germany.travel) offers useful
online guides and advice for planning a trip.
Getting there Visit Hannover (hannover.de) is the city’s own tourist office.
Photography by Hannover Tourismus
SAPPORO
downtown Susukino
has a buzzing nightlife;
deciphering the menus;
the TV tower; fresh
seafood; Susukino
Festival in summer
Beautiful spring cherry blossom, bustling ramen joints and world-class seafood make
the main city of Japan’s Hokkaido island worth the trip up north, says Michael Booth
Why go? During winter, the capital of Japan’s northern island of range of high-end Japanese hotel facilities, including a gym,
Hokkaido is a mecca for winter sports enthusiasts – its slopes less shopping mall and several restaurants.
than an hour away by bus from the city centre. When the season Where to eat and drink Sapporo has its fair share of fine dining
changes, around April, cherry blossom brightens up the streets establishments – such as legendary ‘kaiseki’ (multi-course)
and parks. Japanese also travel to Sapporo, Japan’s fourth most- restaurant Nakumi (00 81 11 210 6858), or Sushi Tanabe (00
populous city, just to taste the super-fresh crab or the legendary 81 11 520 2202, sushi-tanabe.com) – but it does casual that
miso ramen – and to escape the summer heat in Tokyo. much better. Hokkaido salmon is famous in Japan and some
What to do Gastronomy is where Sapporo excels, so start of the country’s best sushi can be found in Sapporo. Its other
your visit at Curb Market near Nijuyonken subway, which is the specialities are crab, Mongolian barbecue and ramen. Renowned
public part of the wholesale market. Wander around 60 stores crab restaurant Kani-Honke in Susukino (00 81 11 222 0018,
selling Hokkaido produce, including its famous melons and kani-honke.jp) offers delicate snow, hairy and king crabs. Ramen
seafood. Miyanomori International Museum of Art (miyanomori-art. Alley in Susukino is an accessible way into the local soup-noodle
jp) is housed in a shiny white building and displays a range of late scene, with 17 different ramen joints. Make sure you go to the
20th-century art from Japan and around the world. The landmark older, original half of the Alley – which is bisected by a road – as the
Sapporo TV Tower is located in Odori Park, a mile-long promenade first half, in the ground floor of an office block, is less atmospheric.
in the city centre where locals meet and stroll. There are plenty of Hokkaido is the home of miso ramen, one of the most addictive
festivals held here in warmer months too. For a blast of Sapporo substances on Earth, and the butter-corn ramen is good too.
nightlife, the central Susukino district offers pretty much all the fun Don’t miss the locally caught sea urchin and salmon roe at the
of Tokyo. great-value seafood restaurants in 100-year-old Nijo fish market
Where to stay Sapporo offers generally much better value hotels near Odori station. Jingisukan (Genghis Khan), the Japanese
than Tokyo, though many are somewhat staid in comparison. Cross answer to the Mongolian barbecue, is another Hokkaido favourite,
Hotel (00 81 11 272 0010, crosshotel.com) is the city’s trendiest in which mutton is cooked over a domed hot plate, along with
option. Located a few minutes’ walk from Odori Park, Susukino fresh vegetables. It gets pretty smoky, as do your clothes. Mini-
and the main railway station, it boasts a contemporary Japanese chain Jingisukan Daruma Rokuyon has a few of these restaurants
design. Also central, and more personal, Nakamuraya Ryokan is a located around the Susukino district (00 81 11 533 8929).
traditional B&B with tatami rooms and dinner served in your room Time running out? Mount Moiwa, 531m up, is where locals and
(00 81 11 241 2111, nakamura-ya.com). The city’s flagship hotel, tourists gather to marvel at Sapporo by night. The peak boasts
in business since 1934, is the four-star Sapporo Grand (00 81 11 incredible panoramic city views and can be reached by cable car.
261 3311, lwhhotels.com/hotels/SapporoGrand). It is connected Trip tip A few words of Japanese will really help: the residents
Travel information
Currency is the yen. Sapporo is nine hours ahead of GMT. Resources
Sapporo is approximately 12.5 hours from Dubai. Vanilla Air Japan National Tourism Organisation (jnto.go.jp) has a range
(vanilla-air.com) offers inexpensive domestic flights from Tokyo. of itineraries and information on festivals and events.
PHILADELPHIA
girl prepares
pretzels; hoagies are
a fast-food staple;
Spring Gardens; fine
dining at R2L; time-
honoured buildings
Travel information
Currency is the US dollar. Philadelphia is five hours behind GMT. Resources
Travel time is 17.5 hours. Philadelphia CVB (discoverphl.com) provides detailed
R Kennedy and J Varney for Visit Philadelphia
I
t has taken almost 20 years of cooking but I have recently With a good ganache needing plenty of time to cool and solidify,
discovered a surprising passion for baking so the chance to pick chef showed us all how to heat the cream and pour it over the
up a few tips from a pastry chef with 30 years’ experience was an chocolate. Gently slicing the dome off the cake, I learned my first
opportunity to be jumped at. mind-blowingly simple trick to make cake decorating easier; turning
Chef Mohammed Qasim is a third generation pastry chef and five the cake upside down for a perfectly flat and smooth icing surface.
of us in the class makes for a friendly and intimate group as we Slicing it into three layers, it was time for trick number two; painting a
gather round an impressive array of top quality ingredients, to learn thin layer of sugar water syrup over each layer before spreading the
to make a delicious chocolate cake for Mother’s Day. Going back to ganache and adding another layer. Trick number three involved
basics, we were making this cake almost exclusively by hand and putting a big dollop of ganache on top and spreading it outward and
after donning gloves, which chef informs us should always be worn down the sides with a small palett knife. Putting the finishing touches
for cracking eggs to minimise the risk salmonella, we separate eggs to the cakes, we smoothed out the sides and formed little peaks of
and our first arm work-out begins with whipping butter, icing sugar ganache on top before dusting with a generous helping of cocoa
and egg yolks, one at a time, into a light and fluffy paste. Setting that powder. And voila, one deliciously rich and decadent but surprisingly
aside, it’s time to give our arms a break as we melt sugar into water, light chocolate cake.
before pouring it over deliciously aromatic cooking chocolate. Adjoining Saveur restaurant, the classroom is also directly
Next we settled into a whipping frenzy of egg whites and sugar opposite the Kempinski’s T-Spoon café, with a luscious wide
before sieving flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and high variety of mouth-watering cakes, appetising pastries and delectible
quality cocoa powder and folding it into the butter mixture, adding biscuits. And after a hard morning of cake baking, what better way
vanilla essence and the melted chocolate, before pouring it all into to end the experience then by sampling some of the goodies on
baking pans ready for the oven. offer? MH. $47.77. kempinski.com
Restaurants
This month, we visit a Bahrain favourite, sit up to South American in Lima, and enjoy a
British classic in Dubai. And there’s always time for brunch…
Masso Bahrain
C
hef Susy Massetti is the kind of convivial host every restaurant should have: always
smiling, abundantly welcoming and veritably fizzing with excitement about both her
eatery and her food.
Sitting beside The Palace Boutique Hotel, this gourmet treat was the first stage of a refurbishment
that’s seen the, once tired, venue emerge as a bijou go-to. The décor very much matches the
Provencale cuisine, pale woods and scented lavender abound and though the big-table dining
experience much loved of Southern Europe is on offer, you can also sit cosily at a table for two or
enjoy the outdoor garden.
Food-wise, you cannot visit Masso without sampling the civiche, some of the best we’ve tasted, made
with a selection of local catch and with a warming chili kick which can take the uninitiated by surprise.
We’d also highly recommend the pumpkin ravioli, home made pasta in a rich tomatoey sauce topped
with shaved parmesan. Want to try it all? Go for the brunch which at $66++ per person offers a
selection of taster portions from the main menu. LO. +973 1772 1061 massorestaurant.com
Live jazz, mouth-watering dishes, A mainstay in the brunch scene, there are Anise’s light, bright and spacious layout
impeccable service and a vibrant, lively numerous reasons Spectrum on One creates an instantly inviting ambience,
atmosphere – all the ingredients for a remains not only one of the most popular, enhanced by the welcoming staff. The
perfect Friday brunch. The Ivy offers either but also one of the most lauded. With restaurant features eight live international
a three-course table d’hôte menu or a eight different culinary stations – including cooking stations (representative of the
signature eight-course degustation feast. Japanese, Indian, Arabic and European – eight points of the star anise) and chefs
Favourites such as The Ivy Full English, diners can embark on an international food also conjure up dishes to be delivered to
and fish and chips pepper the three- journey. New dishes are regularly added to diners’ tables – Peking duck pancakes,
course menu; bursting with flavour and an extensive offering which includes a raw succulently cooked meats and al dente
moreish to the end. On the extensive bar ice-packed with fresh seafood; pasta dishes being just a few of the
culinary journey you’ll find dishes including tempuras, satays, roasts and more. Staff options. Sushi, seafood, an extensive
scallop cerviche with sweet potato crisp, are attentive and helpful, and the cheese selection and a delectable dessert
and hot smoked salmon with horseradish restaurant’s intimate design makes for a counter complete the experience. ZR.
potatoes and beets. ZR. +971 4 319 vibrant atmosphere. ZR. +971 4 311 +971 4 701 1127,
8767, theivy.ae 8316, thefairmont.com/dubai ihg.com/intercontinental/hotels
Tried&Tasted
check-out Anise; the
timeless classics at
Rivington Grill; offerings
from Amaz
EAT
-
S
A plate of giant river snails isn’t necessarily what
ituated just a stone’s throw from the ever-busy Dubai Mall in the
you’d expect in sophisticated Lima, but Peruvian
Arabian themed shopping and dining hub that is Souk Al Bahar,
chefs are bent on pushing the envelope in their
Rivington Grill has firmly established itself as a bolthole for
native land. While others have taken Nikkei and
perfectly executed ‘back-to-basics’ British cuisine. The restaurant is the
Chifa – the Japanese and Chinese fusion cuisines
very antithesis of the fussy formalities so often associated with fine
of the capital – to the limit, others have been
dining. Instead it is a buzzing, vibrant and yet intimate space. Funky
exploring the hinterland, from the Andes to the
80s’-style neon lights punctuate the white walls providing pops of
Amazon and beyond. Pedro Miguel Schiaffino
colour and adding to the relaxed and casual vibe. Waiters dressed in
didn’t get into The World’s 50 Best Restaurants
jeans and open-necked shirts speed around, in time to the up tempo
by holding back, and having made his name in
music keeping apace with the kitchen that produces hearty, homely
Lima with Malabar, he has gone all-out to
dishes of the highest quality and with the utmost efficiency.
introduce the capital’s sophisticates to jungle
The menu is filled with the kind of crowd pleasing classics that have
food at Amaz. In the muted dining room, above
you loosening your belt buckle before you’ve even ordered. Favourites
and behind a bright, airy bar, where giant wicker
such as Welsh rarebit, beef Wellington, fish & chips, grilled Dover sole,
shades and sludge-green walls offer a nod to
apple & blackberry crumble and sticky toffee pudding are an instant
the menu’s regional origins, the churos – giant
draw to the eye. And you can’t help but raise a smile as you cast your
snails, drizzled with chorizo oil – are the thing to
eye over the dessert section and spot knickerbocker glory and banana
order. Carefully gathered by tribal folk in Iquitos,
split on the bill. Closer inspection of the menu reveals more intricate-
they are earthy and delicious, if a little terrifying
sounding dishes such as watercress lane scotch duck egg
to behold; tapioca pearls reinforcing the textural
accompanied by homemade piccalilli and sautéed chicken livers with
challenge the diner must face in tackling this
green lentils. But Rivington Grill’s success lies not in conjuring up
signature dish. The chonta, or heart of palm,
complex combinations but in delivering simple dishes packed with
salad is an easier swallow, as are the green
flavour and finesse. Its ‘pie of the day,’ in our case cottage pie, which in
bananas, served in combination with fish. But
its very essence is just minced meat and mashed potato, is delivered
don’t expect Amazonian ceviche – ‘I’ve still to
piping up to our table and has both gutsiness and depth of flavour yet
find a river fish I’m happy to serve raw,’
evokes a sense of comfort and warmth on a plate. The confit of duck
confesses Schiaffino. The experience is no worse
(another daily special) was equally bold in its flavour profile and
off for it. AG. 00 51 221 9393, amaz.com.pe
demonstrated a refined cooking technique that ensured the bird
remained tender and melt-in-the-mouth. Breaking through the crunchy
top layer of the fruity crumble revealed seasonal fruits carefully cooked
to release their sweetness and with just the right amount of bite, whilst
the sticky toffee pudding delivered in equally good measures of moist
sponge, thick, gooey sauce and guilty pleasure.
A constant influx of diners streamed through the restaurant, yet
tables were turned in a seamless fashion and our service throughout
remained attentive, efficient and unobtrusive. ZR. +971 4 423 0903,
rivingtongrill.ae
Spa lies nestled within rolling dunes and date palms in the encounter with Arabian oryx or gazelles but nature walks, wildlife
225 sq km Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, just 65km drives and desert safaris offer a more engaging insight into desert
from Dubai. Casting more than a passing nod to its heritage, life. It’s fair to say this journey into nature isn’t cheap, but what price
the resort is designed in the style of a Bedouin settlement. for an unforgettable Arabian adventure. ZR. Doubles from $1,497.
But there is no sense of roughing it here; the 42 suites are al-maha.com
to stay
CULINARY STYLE
Fairmont Bab Al Bahr,
Abu Dhabi
Abu Dhabi is promoting arts, culture
and design and with its striking
Dubai, frolicked at a French château near Limoges; contemporary design and prime
mecca and discovered culinary diversity in Abu Dhabi location at the mainland gateway to
the UAE’s capital, the Fairmont Bab
Al Bahr fits easily within this remit.
The clean, sharp lines of its exterior
give way to modern styling in the
vast, glass-fronted and high-
ceilinged lobby. The guest rooms
Québécois queen and suites, 369 in total, also abound
HOTEL GAULT, MONTREAL, CANADA with a luxuriant and contemporary
In the historic Old Montreal district, there’s no
elegance, with any crisp lines
shortage of trendy shops and hip restaurants,
diffused by curvaceous sofas and
with equally hip places to stay. Hotel Gault is one
tables. But the hotel’s design is not
of the best. Minutes from Montreal’s most popular
the only element that can be
sights and encased in the shell of a 19th-century
described as distinctive. With an
textile importer, there are 30 chic, spacious
executive chef, Cladys Magagna,
rooms, many preserving original wrought-iron
who was crowned Executive Chef of
columns or exposed brickwork. Some suites
the Year at Abu Dhabi Gourmet
boast balconies and moveable divides that allow
2014 and a restaurant line up
you to configure the space. Sip a coffee by the
including Frankie’s and Marco Pierre
lobby fireplace; this area segues seamlessly into a
White Steakhouse & Grill, the
cocktail bar as evening approaches. Sleep deep
culinary offering from the hotel
on mattresses custom made in Quebec, then rise
leaves a lasting impression too. ZR.
to a breakfast of pancakes drenched in maple
Doubles from $258. fairmont.com/
syrup. AM. Doubles from $164, hotelgault.com
abu-dhabi/
Books
This month we leaf through an offally good
book on tripe, sail the high seas, cook Chinese
from Manchester and make our own yoghurt
Book of Tripe by Stéphane Reynaud Sweet Mandarin Cookbook by Helen and Lisa Tse
While many of us are quite happy to eat offal in the safety of a restaurant, It is a too-often quoted food cliché that every dish tells a story, but in
where it’s prepared by an experienced chef, making it at home is another Helen and Lisa Tse’s case, it really does. Having made a home, and set
matter. But it is all those ‘other’ bits – gizzards and kidneys, brains and up their Sweet Mandarin restaurant in Manchester, UK, as the third
feet – that are the subject of French chef Stéphane Reynaud’s latest generation of a line of passionate female cooks, each of their recipes is a
cookbook. Reynaud has a real passion for animal anatomy, and writes small evolution of the one that was passed down to them. There are
about offal with an infectious enthusiasm. Besides recipes – which range many recipes in here that you’ll recognise – sesame prawn toasties,
from tripe salad or roasted tails to lamb brains meunière and cow udder crispy aromatic duck and chicken chow mein, and many more that you
with sauce gribiche – the book offers solid background information on might not, including winter melon and wolfberry soup, celebration lobster
various forms of offal, including where to buy and any important noodles and asian-style beef burger. Whatever the dish though,
preparations for cooking. AM. Murdoch Books, $33.16. memories make up the key ingredients. AA. Kyle Books, $31.48.
The Creamery Kitchen by Jenny Linford Down to the Sea in Ships by Horatio Clare
So you make your own jam? Big deal. Ambitious home cooks are now Horatio Clare is a man enraptured by the sea – and the variety of people
branching out into making their own dairy products – and Jenny Linford’s who have long inhabited this vast and uncertain place. A guest aboard
book is the perfect introduction to the art. Linford lays out the essentials two Maersk container ships – the first from Felixstowe to Los Angeles via
in making your own butter, sour cream, yoghurt, mascarpone and more – Suez, the second from Antwerp to Montreal – the ‘writer in residence’
and once you taste how good the fresh stuff is, you’re likely to be opens more than a porthole on the shipping industry, whose (mostly)
hooked. Best of all, most of it is so simple, you’ll wonder why you’ve not men battle storms, pirates and sheer boredom to sustain those on dry
done it before. Naturally, Linford has also included a number of recipes land. But this is no lumbering albatross – copper, cars, diamonds, even
that allow your freshly made dairy to shine – including buttermilk-fried narcotics… remember, it all goes by sea. And with an obsessive
chicken, yoghurt gelato, cream cheese and olive parcels, and fig and attention to detail, Clare captures the tales, trials and musings of mariners
honey ricotta cheesecake. AM. Ryland Peters & Small, $28.17. that would otherwise be lost to the tides. JW. Chatto & Windus, $33.16.
In season – Radishes
pages 20-25
water in a medium saucepan over sugar then add the butter. Put on
a low heat. When the sugar has a high heat to melt the butter and
dissolved turn up the heat and when bubbles just start to appear
boil for about 5 minutes to a rich remove from the heat and shoot
caramel. Take off the heat, carefully in the flour from the parchment
add the cream, stir well and cool all in one go. Stir vigorously with
for 5 minutes. Take the gelatine out a wooden spoon until all specks
of the soaking water, squeeze and of flour have gone but just until
stir into the hot liquid. the mixture is smooth. Leave to
Put the cream cheese in a cool for 5 minutes before beating
bowl and whisk in the vanilla in the eggs, about a quarter at
bean paste until smooth. Add the a time, with a wooden spoon.
caramel mixture, stir well and leave Make sure before you add more
to cool for 30 minutes. Pour into egg that the mixture is very stiff
the square pans and put in the and the previous eggs completely
Salted caramel and fridge overnight to set. Mini rose éclairs incorporated. (You can use an
hazelnut cheesecakes To assemble, up to a maximum MAKES ABOUT 28 electric whisk if you prefer.) You
MAKES 16 of 45 minutes before serving, might find you don’t need to add
line a large tray with foil and put While 28 éclairs may sound like all the last portion of egg if the
You can buy the mini square a cocktail stick in each hazelnut. a lot, any less dough isn’t worth mixture is already stiff and glossy.
pans online, including from Alan Un-mould the cakes and place embarking on. But, you can make Line a baking sheet with baking
Silverwood (code 12284). them on a wire rack. Have a sink larger éclairs from this recipe parchment and fit a piping bag
full of cold water ready to dip the instead, if wished. We’ve iced half with a plain 1.5cm nozzle. Pipe
For the bases base of the pan into to stop the the éclairs in caramel topping, and approximately 28-30 x 5cm
150g plain digestives, finely caramel going too dark. half in fondant. lengths diagonally onto the
ground Put the sugar and 4tbsp of prepared sheet. Using a finger
85g butter water in a small saucepan and For the choux pastry tip dipped into the remains of
1tbsp light brown sugar, sifted dissolve the sugar over a low 60ml full-fat milk the egg, smooth the tops of the
heat. Increase the heat and boil 2tsp caster sugar choux. Bake for 15 minutes. Open
For the cheesecake layer for approximately 5 minutes to get 70g butter, cut into small cubes the oven door briefly to let some
200g caster sugar a golden caramel. Dip the base 100g plain flour, sifted onto a of the steam escape and bake
½tsp sea salt flakes of the pan in the cold water for sheet of baking parchment for a further 5-10 minutes until
300ml double cream a second. Pour a little caramel 2 large eggs, lightly beaten the éclairs are firm and golden.
5 sheets leaf gelatine, soaked in onto one end of the foil-lined tray Tip onto a wire rack and cool
water for 5 minutes and tip so it spreads out thinly For the pastry cream filling completely. Store in an airtight
350g cream cheese for the shards. Use some of the 50g caster sugar container and use within 2 days
1tsp vanilla bean paste remaining caramel to drizzle the 2 large egg yolks so they remain crisp.
cakes in a zig-zag pattern with a 2½tbsp cornflour To make the pastry cream
For the topping pointed spoon. 4tsp rose water filling, beat the sugar, egg yolks,
16 lightly roasted skinned Sit the pan at an angle so the 100ml full-fat milk cornflour and rose water in a bowl
hazelnuts caramel doesn’t set on the base 150ml double cream until smooth. Put the milk and
200g caster sugar too quickly. Dip the hazelnuts one 100ml of the cream in a saucepan
at a time and let the excess drip For the caramel topping and bring up to the boil on a low
16 x 5cm mini square pans off, leaving a tail. Hold it for long 125g caster sugar heat. Mix half this liquid into the
16 cocktail sticks enough to harden then snip off the 4tbsp apple and raspberry juice egg mixture; stir well and pour
excess with scissors so they are 1½tsp grenadine back into the pan. With a wooden
To make the bases, heat the oven about 5cm long. Lay them on the 1tbsp rosewater spoon stir continuously on a low
180C°/350°F/Gas 4. Put the finely tinfoil while you do the rest. If the heat until turning lumpy, take off
ground biscuit crumbs in a bowl. caramel hardens too fast in the For the fondant topping the heat to stir until smooth. Then
Put the butter and sugar in a small pan hold at an angle over a low 100g white fondant icing put back on the heat and keep
pan and melt together. Pour over heat to melt again. 2tsp rosewater stirring to cook out the cornflour.
the biscuit crumbs and mix well. Pull the cocktail stick out of Add the remaining cream (50ml)
Put 4tsp of the mixture into the hazelnuts and sit one on top 80g tub of crystallised rose and stir over the heat for another
each individual square pan and of each cake. Break the hard pieces minute. Transfer to a clean bowl
press down to fill and flatten caramel off the foil into shards and and immediately cover the surface
the mixture to the edges. Bake stick them alongside the hazelnuts. piping bag with 1.5cm nozzle with cling film. Leave to cool
for 8 minutes and leave to cool completely before using.
completely. Wrap under the base To make the choux, preheat the To make the caramel topping,
and up the outsides of the mould oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 5. Put put the sugar, juice, grenadine and
with cling film. the milk, 100ml cold water, sugar rosewater in a small pan over a
To make the cheesecake filling, and a pinch of salt in a medium low heat to dissolve the sugar to
put the sugar, salt and 4tbsp of saucepan, stir to dissolve the a syrup. Bring to a boil on a high
25g pistachio nibs, finely ground 1tbsp of the juice in a bowl with Espresso succès to the egg whites a little at a time,
1tbsp icing sugar, sifted half the sugar, the eggs, cornflour MAKES 12 whisking between additions until
1tbsp freeze-dried strawberries, and potato flour and whisk. Put stiff and glossy, then fold in the
very lightly chopped the rest of the juice, sugar, and These layered almond meringue ground almond mixture. Put the
the zest in a saucepan over a gateau are a twist on the French meringue in a piping bag fitted
20cm square cake tin, low heat and bring to a simmer classic. It is important to use with the 1cm plain nozzle and use
buttered and lined with baking for 2 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes instant espresso powder (or a dot of any remaining meringue in
parchment then pour through a sieve onto else, freeze-dried instant coffee the bowl to secure the sheets of
16 x 5cm round cylinder moulds the egg mixture. Pour back into granules blitzed in a spice grinder). parchment onto the baking trays.
(see introduction note) the pan and cook on a very low You can buy a 16-piece set of Starting just inside the traced
heat stirring continuously with a 5cm (2inch) cylinder moulds from circles, pipe around towards the
To make the orange almond wooden spoon until very thick. Alan Silverwood (code 12384). centre to make flat discs. Bake
sponge, preheat the oven to Tip into a cold bowl and cover for about 30 minutes until they are
175°C/350°F/Gas 4. Cream the with cling film and leave to cool For the meringues crisp and come off the parchment
butter and sugar together until completely for 40 minutes. 75g icing sugar cleanly. Loosen them all and leave
pale and fluffy. Whisk in the eggs a Whisk the cream just until soft 50g ground almonds to cool. Once cool, take 1/3 of the
little at a time. In a separate bowl, peaks form and mix into the 2tsp cornflour discs and push them upwards
sift the flour and almonds together. orange mixture. Spoon or pipe 1tsp instant espresso powder into the base of 12 of the cylinder
Add to the mixture and stir to equal amounts of the orange 2 egg whites moulds. If some of the discs are
combine. Add the orange extract. cream over the ganache, to pinch cream of tartar too large, shave with a knife so
Spoon the mixture into the lined tin come above the strawberries by they fit well. Put the rest of the
and bake for 30-35 minutes until a centimetre. Place the rest of the For the meringue buttercream discs to one side.
firm to the touch and golden. sponge circles into each mould, filling To make the meringue
Cool for 10 minutes, then pressing very gently to position. 150g caster sugar buttercream, put 125g of the
remove from the tin with the Chill in the fridge overnight. 2 large egg whites sugar with 50ml water in a small
baking paper. Cool on a wire rack Up to a maximum of 3 hours pinch cream of tartar saucepan and dissolve the sugar
before peeling off the paper. When before serving assemble the 175g butter, cubed, left to over a low heat. Increase the heat
cooled completely stamp out 16 fraisiers. Whizz the pistachios with soften at room temperature a little and boil the syrup until a
circles using one of the cylinder the icing sugar in a spice grinder 1tsp instant espresso powder temperature of 121°C/248°F is
moulds as a cutter, then slice or mini processor to a fine powder. 2tsp coffee liqueur reached on a thermometer.
each circle in half horizontally so Take the moulds out of the fridge Meanwhile, put the egg whites
you have 32 sponge pieces. Push and leave for 10 minutes. Press For the topping and cream of tartar in a large bowl
half the sponge circles upwards downwards on the top layer of 1tbsp instant espresso powder and whisk until soft peaks form.
into the bottom of the moulds. sponge gently to unmould. Dust 1-2tsp icing sugar Whisk in the remaining 25g of
Cover the rest. the tops with the pistachio mixture, coffee-flavoured chocolate sugar, half at a time until stiff.
Cut the stem ends off the add some dried strawberries to beans With your whisks rotating
strawberries and slice lengthways the centre of each top and return carefully pour in the hot syrup,
into 4. Arrange the strawberry to the fridge to chill until serving. 12 x 5cm round cylinder moulds avoiding the beaters, and continue
slices around the sides of each (see introduction note) to whisk until cold.
mould with the point of the large piping bag with 1 x Whisk the soft butter, espresso
strawberry upwards, pressing 1cm-nozzle and 1 x 1.5cm and liqueur together then whisk a
gently so they stay in place. nozzle little at a time into the meringue.
Put in the fridge. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with
To make the ganache, put To make the meringues, begin by a 1.5cm plain nozzle.
the cream and chocolate in lining 2 baking trays with 2 sheets Pipe half the quantity of
a bowl over a pan of barely of baking parchment each. Mark meringue buttercream into the
simmering water (don’t let the out on the top sheets 36 circles prepared moulds and top with
base touch the water) and leave in total using one of the cylinder another meringue disc. Pipe the
to melt for 2 minutes. Remove moulds as a template. Turn the remainder into the moulds and
the bowl from the heat, and stir baking parchment over to avoid top with another disc. Chill for a
to combine completely. Cool the pencil marking the meringues minimum of 1 hour or overnight.
until just spoonable. Spoon the (you should be able to see the Up to a maximum of 3 hours
ganache into the centre of the drawn circles through). before serving, unmould by
sponge circles without disturbing Preheat the oven to warming the sides of each cylinder
the strawberries, and chill for 10 150°C/300°F/Gas 2. mould in your hands and gently
minutes until set. Sift the icing sugar into a small pushing downwards. For the
To make the orange filling, put bowl. Sift the ground almonds, topping add a chocolate bean
cornflour and espresso powder to each and mix the espresso
into another small bowl and mix. powder and icing sugar together
Put the egg whites and cream before sifting over each gateau.
of tartar in a large bowl and whisk
to soft peaks. Add the icing sugar
Sunday best
pages 46-51
1 bay leaf
2tbsp plain flour
500ml hot lamb or beef stock
150ml double cream
80g capers
a small bunch of flat-leaf
parsley, chopped
300g spaghetti
60ml olive oil
300g skinless chicken breast
fillet, cut into thin strips
1 brown onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2tsp freshly grated nutmeg Scallops and basturma
1tsp ground cinnamon drizzled with pomegranate
1 litre full-fat milk butter
1tbsp cornflour mixed with SERVES 6
250ml water
Also known as Armenian air-dried
30cm x 18cm x 6cm non-stick beef, basturma is a cured meat
baking pan coated in a blend of dried herbs,
garlic and spices, which varies
Cook the spaghetti in salted according to the origin of its
boiling water until al dente, creator. It should not be confused
following the packet instructions. with pastrami, which is cured and Shredded pastry with pan from the heat and set aside
Drain in a colander and rinse smoked. chocolate cream to cool at room temperature.
under cold water to stop the SERVES 4 Refrigerate for at least 4 hours
strands sticking together. 125ml vegetable oil to allow the chocolate cream to
Meanwhile, heat 1tbsp olive oil 6 x 5mm thick slices aubergine, Kataifi is a finely shredded pastry thicken and cool completely.
in a medium frying pan over high cut in half that looks similar to vermicelli Preheat the oven to 210°C/
heat, add the chicken strips and 2tbsp olive oil noodles, but has a beautiful 410°F/Gas 7. Line a baking tray
cook for 5-8 minutes, tossing to 12 fresh scallops, roe removed crunchy texture when cooked. with baking paper. Pull the kataifi
seal. Set aside. 12 slices basturma apart by hand to make it workable.
Preheat the oven to 300g kataifi pastry Ensure you are in a cool space,
210°C/410°F/Gas 7. Heat 1tbsp For the pomegranate butter 50g butter, melted without any breeze to dry out the
olive oil in a large saucepan over 80g butter, diced and softened 80g hazelnuts, crushed pastry. Pull off a small handful
medium heat, add the onion at room temperature 150ml ater (sugar syrup) of the pastry and loosely work it
and garlic and cook for about 1tsp pomegranate molasses between your palms to the size of
5 minutes or until golden. Add ¼tsp crushed garlic For the chocolate cream a tennis ball. Place the ball on the
the chicken, then the nutmeg, 1tsp lemon juice 600ml thickened cream baking tray and gently press down
cinnamon, 1tbsp salt flakes and 250ml milk to flatten it into a disc shape.
½tsp freshly ground black pepper To make the pomegranate butter, 250g milk cooking chocolate, Repeat with the remaining pastry
and stir to combine. Increase the mix all the ingredients in a food broken into pieces to make 20 discs.
heat to high and pour in the milk. processor, along with ½tsp freshly 2tbsp orange blossom water Using a pastry brush, lightly
Cook, stirring, for about 7 minutes, ground black pepper until combined. 50g cornflour blended with brush the discs with melted butter,
then add the cornflour mixture and Set aside at room temperature. 60ml milk to make a paste then place in the oven and bake
stir constantly to stop any lumps Heat the vegetable oil in a for 20-25 minutes or until golden.
forming. When the mixture starts medium frying pan over medium Start by making the chocolate Remove from the oven and allow
to thicken, reduce the heat to heat, add the aubergine and cook cream. Place the cream and to cool completely.
low and add the spaghetti to the until golden brown on both sides. milk in a medium heavy-based For each serving, place a
pan. Simmer gently for about 5 Remove and drain on paper towel. saucepan over medium heat and kataifi disc on a serving plate and
minutes, stirring from time to time Heat the olive oil in a small frying bring to just below the boil. Add top with 2tbsp of the chocolate
to stop it sticking to the pan. pan over medium-high heat and the chocolate and stir constantly cream. Spread the cream out
Pour the mixture into the baking cook the scallops for 2 minutes on until melted. Add the orange evenly, then gently place another
dish and even out the surface with each side to seal. Take care not to blossom water, then the cornflour disc on top. Sprinkle lightly with
a spoon. Drizzle the remaining overcook them. Set aside. paste and whisk vigorously to the crushed hazelnuts and serve
olive oil evenly over the top and To assemble, start with the stop any lumps forming. (If you with sugar syrup on the side so
bake for 20 minutes or until the basturma at the bottom, followed do not have a steel whisk, use a everyone can help themselves.
top starts to turn golden brown. by the eggplant and then the wooden spoon, but reduce the
Remove from the oven and rest scallops. Finally, place a small heat to low.) When the cream
for about 10 minutes before dollop of pomegranate butter on has thickened to the consistency
serving. Try serving with green top of each scallop and allow it to of pouring custard, remove the
beans dressed in olive oil. melt. Serve immediately.
BobbyChinn
The New Zealand-born, Egyptian-Chinese chef and TV cook has just opened his first restaurant
in London, The House of Ho. He speaks to Alicia Miller about eating his way around the globe
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