Ee an Patterns of Fashion The cut and construction of clothes for men and women ¢1560-1620Patterns of Fashion The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620 Contents Photographic Acknowledgements. page 1. Introduction and Acknowledgements. page 2 The art and erat of the tailor. page 3. Portraits and other visual sources with photographs of original garments showing stitching, fabrics and trimmings. page 14 Drawings and patterns taken from original specimens. page 53, Measurements and metric conversions. page 124 Using the patterns for full-scale work. page 126. ‘Table of measurements. page 127. Select bibliography. page 127 “Fe filonng ce prez ind ot ed rc th js ria ‘Dako Huriueh und Gurentbery, RY in Ter Sent Sa: Daweh Cale Galley. 1; Garmenuthes Nattnalmeumy Nusa 28a fers Ho, 3. i 4 pw awe ale ‘Mr 9 ia 331 Nita Petit Gr adn 35,30, 88, 57 ss a Hi Cn oo fees ar i Ca, Pc Yar an Al ow Written and illustrated by Janet Arnold ‘Patterns, drawings and photographs taken from original specimens " indietes burial clothes 1, +1682, Suit. Sain doublet with paned tranchose in velvet and satin, warm by Don Garin de’ Mech, Paso Pit arene pattern, page 54 drawing, page 53, photographs 74-0 sp pases 1415. 12 “E1562, Velvet bonnet mora by Don Guia dedi Polszo Plt, Florence pattern, page 86, drwwing. page hotographe RO? on page 15 8. “V15t4 Satin doublet worn by Cosimo I déMedil, Palaeo Pt, Florence. patter, page 86, drawing age 6 ‘hatngraphe RST on page 1S 4. "Niger Sui. Velvet dale with plerhose i wleot und alk, worn by Sante Sure. Upaala Cathedral pater, ‘ae 58, drsings page 57 snd 59 photograph 88-82 on page 16 ss “Sipe Suit Velvet doublet with pladerhne i velvet and alk worn by Bik Sure. Uprale Cathedral pater, page ‘6, drawings pages 60 and 62. photographs 94-9 om page 17 a. ison sul Lonter doublet with pladerbore in wcvet ned wool camlet, worn by Nils lute. Uppata Cathedral Pattern, gon 64, 68 and Ge ad drawings pages 63,65 and 6, hotographs 96 and 90-105 on pages 17-18 E1960 Youth's inked and eat lather erin: Museu of London. pattern, pane 6, drawings, page 9, photographs 10914 on page 19 & 4500, Red matin doublet Hever Castle, Kent pattern, page 71, drawing, page 70, photograph 117-121 un page 20, ‘8 c1620 derkin in grou aed gold brcatlle. Lox Angele County Museum of Art. pater, page 1. drawing, pase 7 ‘photagraphs 128-4 on page 20. 10, CiSio" 1610 Embroidered leather doublet. Stdbert Muscur, Florence. pattern, page 73, drawings, page 72 Photographs 125 aod 127-190 on page 21 11, CHSOE6 1008 Youth's doublet neat snd uncut velvet Kosmmuscum, The Hague. patter, page 73 drawings page 72, photographs 132-7 am pages 21-2 12, ETHt0- 8, But Doublet ad tran hone with anions, in dare mulberry uncatvelvet on vided satin ground ‘Grimtharpe and Drummond Conte Trt Lid. om loan to the Victoria ond Albert Maaco London. ptr, page 76, drawings pages 74, 76 a 7, photographs 140-4 on pages 22-4 18 1008710, Cut and pinked geen satin doublet with padded pone belly. Germanuches Ntinalmusur, Nurniers. pattern page 78 drawing, page 78, poingraphs 146-52 on pages 23-4 14, c1800-Te00 erin in blak sti, su and decorated with couched cord io reumble interlaced strapwork,Hessaches LLendevmaseum, Darmstadt pattern, page 72, drawings, page BD, photographs 158-8 on page 24 15, lblO.Puded doublet of hot silk Germanischer Natonalmuseum, Narmberg, pte, page 8 drawings, pe 80, ‘photographs 158-84 on page 25, 1, E1610: Youths padded leather doublet. probably for fencing. Germaniacher Nationlmaseum. Norberg pattern ‘re 8, drawings, paweR2 photographs 166.8 en page 25 17, EU6I0. Youths ped leather doublet, probably fr fencing. Royal Scotish Museum, Blnburgh pattern, page 8, Atrsving, page Bz, photographs 168-72 0n page 26 1th, HO15 £0, Double a plaked tain, Heutaches Landeamuteu, Dermot, pater, page 8b drawing, page 4 Dhotograhs 174-8. page 26 19, E1618 20 Sik dae Lord Midleton Callen, Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham. patter, page 8 “rawing, page 4, photographs 181-4 on page 2. ‘20, [1618-25 Double in pile satin. Bayortacker Naianalmaseum, Munich pater, page 87, drawing, page 86, ‘hotograghe 1HB-8 on paige 26 a1, 1616-20 Breechos oe venetian in strped velvet. GermenischesNationalmuscum, Number. pattern, ane 87 wn, page Bs photographs 18-9 on page 28 {is Sut. Deublet and trnk-hose wih enon 2 lace and pink satin, worn by Sit Richard Caton Victor and Albert Museum, London. patern, page 89, drawing, page 88, phtograps 191-7 on pages 28-9. ‘24. c18LS-20 Suit Doblat and runkhowe in atin wth applied leather co in a decorative pattern. Museo Parmigianin, Regrio Bia. paltere, page 9 drawings, pages 90 and 92, photographs 202-10 on page 90. sau, "'186T Bonnet of thick felt wih uted wot pie, Upaata Cathedral pater, poy 93, photographs 212 17 on page a, 25, 1565-1600, High crwned ot hat with tuft sik ple. Germanacho Nationalmusum, Nurnberg. paler, page ‘9, photagraphe 205 on page 328 see Sh REE BR £10, Moran belnet ato el, cverod with embroidered stk, Germanischer Notianalmancu. Narnbing ge 93, otograpis 227-30 on pages 523 1526-1600, Brown pleted alk hat with pinked Natband.Germanincher Notonamaseum, Nirers aterm, 4 pagraphe 222 40m page 3 160-10. High crowned hati rh pak velve. Germaniches Nationalmustum, Narnberg. pater, page Platgeaphs 237-40 on page 34 "600-10. Hard lather hat, embroidered with slver thread, GermonischesNationalmusurs, Nurnbery. patton, age 94 photographs 241-3 om pe J {IS6H-80"Crimuon velvet crula compas lak; embroidered with mld thread. Germania Nathnalmcu, ‘Nurnbert pattern. page 98, potagraphs 248-9 un page 35. 1600-20 Had satin nectar cask with am applied design in yellow satin, Germanichos Nationalmuscum, Nurnberg. pattern, pe 98, tng 254-1 on ae 8, ‘1960-90 Cloak tn pane in dep rd cutee. linear pater formed by Ue voided cream stk gro, with “tv epolied design in yell satin tnd couched cord. Vito and Albert Museu, London, pattern, page 96, ‘hotoraph 252 0 page 36 "e010. Red alin sem-cincular cloak, embroidered with gd thread and coloured ike. Victoria and Albert ‘Museum, Landon. pater, page 96, pootograph 253 on page 26. ‘1570-80, Chak in ream wl, mnbroiered in dk Brown won, wih a hood Germanischer Natioalmuseu [Murnberggnter poge 7, photographs 250 61 on page 7 (1610-20 Pinked and cu plet aquamarine sain serial lak, enoidere in yellow alk Victoria and ‘Alber Museum, London pater pane 9. photographs 262-4 on Poe {600-10 Ewe goon inch, deep wie satin, ined with wine velvet. The National Tras, Handuick Hall Derbyshire pattern, page 9 drwneus, page 9, phitraph 265 on pau 3 ‘1o0e-15 Purple nik daman ome powm ith hanging seven, ned wi geo shag, traditionally Frames Verney. Sir Ralph Verny,Caydon House (he National Tras), nar Apetbuy: pattern pa 108, drawing, pe 9. potoraph 267-7Lon ae 38 {1600-10 G's lowe gow in at and unc velvet, Nodicho Muse, Stctholm.plietn, page 101 drawing, page 102, photograph 2724 on pe 38 [1SUN- 1600. A pir of ermson satin padded sleees, inked and wtiched for decoration. Germanichos tanalmusoum, Narnbers paler, age 10, photographs 275-8 on page 38 ‘1515-8 Embradered green velvet foepart. Muses Pamigianan, Regge Emo. pater, page 101, photographs 270-82 on page 40. “1, Satin own and velvet baie ur "odie wor by Elanora of Tole, wife of Casino {dM Places Pat, Florence: pattern, page 104, drawings pages 102-3, photographs 286 and 288-81 on pages 40-1 “ia Velvet gown with hanging leven morn by Gein Katharina rar Lipp, aged ae Lapparhes Landewniscur, Detild. pater, page 106, drains, page 105, photograph 207 501 en page 42 ‘1585, Womars double in embroidered black velvet with large seve rll. Germantahrs Natonabmuseun ‘Marnbere pattern age 108 drawings, page 107, photographs 804-9 on page 4, ‘15z0- Kite ivory sk wth embroidered front panel and detachable slaeves.Germamickes Nationals ‘Marnbrt pattern pe 110, drawing, page 108, phoigeaphe 311-17 on page {1570-80 ack velvet louse gowm with srt sleeves, Germanachs Natonelmuseumy Nurnberg pater page 112 ‘eaieus pages 109 and 111, photographs 21-8 on pages 4-6, “1598 Try separ of bolle oreo, worn by Pagan Dorthen Sabina yn Newbury Bayersches [Netionalmascum, usich pattern. page 112, draeings, page 113, photograph 327-8 om page 45 51508: Veet trained pon wit sat ined hanging loees ad atin ude leven, worm by Diagram Darthes Sabina von Neabury Beyerache Nafonelmuseum, Munich gaer, page 118, deuwings, pase 118 phutgeaphe 34-0 on page aT 41699, Gown f 1620-30 n cut and uncut velvet simulating interlaced atrapmork, wor by Dfseran Darth, {Maria von SulshachMayersches Nauionlmascum, Munich patera, page 115, ewig, pee 118. phtosraghs 0-2 on page a 1600-19" A pair of sleeves in sf olden own ulin, embridred with sliver sep. Germantichor [Natonsinuseum, Nurmi pattern, page 118 photographs 348-1 on page 8 1SH0 85 vary amped stn forepart ebredered with plyehreme kx, Musso Parmigianio, Reggio Rit patter, page 115, photographs 347 on page 48 EiGis 0 Hmbrsdered nd pnked black natin air or pti, Kine with pink ik, Nationals, Copenbagen fittorn age 117, dreings, pags 16, photographs 361-2 on page 40 1O10"15: Lee gown a sao ilk Yitoris and Albert Mesum, London. pater, page 119, drawing, page 116, ‘photographs 356-50 on page 30 {LGIO-IS, White linen jet embroidered in pyehrome sila; worn by Margaret Laton, Pris colltion, on bth tothe Visoria amd Albert Musca, Landon. ptr, page 121 photographs B54 on page 5 ‘AG15-18, Whie linen Jacket, eobroidered in palehreme sil Burl Calton, Glan pattern, pa 12, Botgrapbs 0-9 om pe Bt. 610-2 Gia alivereen plush velvet lone gown. Vitor and Aber Museum, London pater, page 121 ening, page 120, potograph 70-3 on page 2 {LETO-ID Nowe gown tn toy et and neta Vina Albert Mums Lon ater 120, rungs, pge 122, phagraphy 375-8 on page 82 Introduction and Acknowledgements "This the festa na sere onthe et nd contraction of ates for th men and waren covering periads of varying length between the Middle Agee und. the twentieth century lat we portrait ad otber a ‘ures It is entiation ofthe work tart ny tre Intradvtory vlumes of Putter of Fahion. whieh dealt ‘nly with women slthex The formato he see hae then piverned by Uhe need Le sonveyinsemelion I he ove fiat ptorn degra, The carl sty af indies of lating nd tuilrig eehniques ear help texte eomservator a Archeologist pcg taper trazents fom fveavatons. Ica alo aut ar hrs working with Inavly restored paintings Unfortunately dese ers ‘cleaning and eileraion wore mt eps inte pat eral ‘metimes mich ofthe gia top lave opin hs en fremaved Traces of textile signs mtrtonal fenton Ua anther rimings may efor be detected ond wi in identifying the subject ofa pte a well a blping dite The beak la peace guide acting period couture It nn intended to complete cory of {ahiontetieen 560 ae 180 and she Be used wih the hooks a atl sted on pages 127-8. 1 hope i i) ‘brow useful to students af wn age with an terete the story of dees and the tales era fer people who find ‘aking model dlls a dressing ther per costume: Atv enjyable hobby and for tone working in the amateur {and professional theatre re brs gern ip Gv ra a ‘latest ad enry screctxalhceatuie ard amor al fare fae othe pont of stmegration Sot hi ix Ade exposure t strong light o ron mann tack ‘ye slowly fing the cleth Ta ater cane the cathe were easily wor orginally hen sed ain Sr fay Arescim the ninteenth entry. when perspirt dd Turther damage The garments deserted nd strated! i thane ptt dont given eprsenatve survey of the {tions between c1S40 and 1620 they are spl lange number of the ol exstcice Eating tem his ‘pertad whch spe the ins of Elnabeth Tad fumes 1 Inland. Thee clothes are the werk of he aller the svar of the seamatroe shirt, mors, rls and her eekwear~ will appea in the ext vole ‘My original intention was to make recomtrutins and sive patorn diagrams of lex which hal nt surived, Used on thee doped in porte, to Allin the gaps However, fer collecting together material on surving specimens patterns, drawings apd photograps i ‘eamc aparest the there a arody es mecha could ‘be printed in one solume at a pice which would make i Feaciy avaiable to sdnte He sesmned more sell to ‘ein ths information a tod, within the Hii of ‘vale pace tham watt prepare lege vlume Srl ld tne bce eseenely eneaae Tae Teconsructions wil be Included nl volume covering the eat and constriction of clothes rm e130! to 15, ‘veriapping with this bok, tether with material which 1 hope to ice from the Eiabeth Day MeCrmich ‘allction at Heston Museum of Fine Art, the Hitches “Muceum in Dresden and the Metrapalitan Museum, New ‘York Unfortunately 1s anale to study Yo thee ‘allections when {vised them a al the ene mere ochedweny hil slrerons wer biog redecrted and new eupiards bul ‘evan af the pater ee hav leedy been pubed tn eteon Costume, Weffn-wnd Kasttmbande and The Parkngon Magazine, bt have bee inde ko mae he ‘trey au Completes publ. twa ike to thank the fit then journal Dr A Sunder Dr tava von ‘Wilekens an hr Nil MacGregor or Ky alow me {a ue therm again have retred to gd wed ser ved throughout. As George Winall Digby pots wt in Btacbahan Bmivokery. me secortly le thread always aver git ba seems unmaeeary int on thin rather alae expres tw erery aoe Mant gold lor sve ltv and sve head connie et thin strip of metal wend ru ¢ who nen oe Strip “Taking pers and making etd drowns ore Many ofthe armen ar fae that they arly be ted tn ume coe abi ened decnr hae ‘iowa dsiategrated a as then many ur to srt Aut theirongnal spenrine ns devine The whe fret has boon undertaken wth the gener a of LvertulmeFetonship inthe Deparment ef Oram ad ‘Testre Suna Riyal Hallowny Calege: University of ldo. Some othe rest wor trl vr tn eas tenth West Sev Cla Ar and Di Farnham withthe help of «Wins Chae anti Fellowship for chee monte in 1871 The called met Sista ange numberof art galeria and sau Franco, Germany. lay Spain and Seton, 1 would ike to thank th Dinars: Curators ant ‘Alsaants of the museums st gleres andi tellectons which I vated hile cmpling the materi fe this book fr all heir kind adhe. Tse ey rata the stats ofthe Brinn Library, the Natal {Art Library atthe Viclra an Albert Masur and he ‘Westminster nd Bristal Cntral Reference Liars fr their amstance {have received enraged lp from mang peli sme case this rang rt carrying cup ots up numerous figs uf tar and teasing sy poston ou chairs ul tplaer wile ‘aking photograph of inaccessible on ur por Interesting dscumions cn vars tects of tenth Had tarlysevencentetturyclathing There ie mat enah tgece te nection very bat sould particularly Mae thank Dr Ellen Anderon. Miss Jane Apple Lar Aster, [Dr W, Bel. Miss Gunpel Bersuven. Dr loge Bergan, ‘Miss Anna Berggren, Prfesor Gea Brant, Dr Mar Westerman Bulgarels the late Dr Lone! Butler, Nise Pamela Clabburn, Mas Gudrun Eland, Dr loger Estham, Mr Jeremy Farrel, Mss Annemarie Feeley [Mrs Karen Finch OBE, Me Chrtoher Foley, te Hae Frocg the late Profesor Gir Ge, Mra det Hh ‘Mow Zillah Hall Dr Wilhelm Hansen, Mos Avi Hat “Miss Wondy Metord, De Cat 8 Helle Ms Jean nnt Moe Mie as Dy May te Jang Me Jo Kerala, Mic Santina M, Levey, 4 Bo Last ist Sarie Maver, Mis Ella Mela, Me and Mrs Michael, Morgan, Dr Sigrid Malle Christensen, Mn Ante “Murray, Mise Moni Murray, Mr Hevel Ody. Dr Kirton ‘Anchengreet Pace, Mie Suita Prong, Mr ‘Stan Rarson, Mia Natae Rehaei, New Thoey Schornholer Mr Ken Smale, Miu Ray Santen Mine ‘Annee Stier, Mi ilar Tan, Inger Laven (es. Mrs WinfedUndermend Angela lke. Mise Erte Weiland, Mos Norma Whitard, ss Margit Wiklund, De Leonie vow Wilkens, Mis Lorene, ‘Williams, Mies Sarah Wimbash and Proenar Katharine ‘Worth: Finally I would ike to hank my mother und Me Tas Robinson and Me Robert Upderall t Macon