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Sair-E Europe and Safarnama-E Rum-o-Misr-o Shaam
Sair-E Europe and Safarnama-E Rum-o-Misr-o Shaam
“…And just like Maulana Altaf Hussain Hali, not adhering to set rules, breathed fresh
air into Urdu literature, breaking its obsession with love and beauty, for the past forty
years Turkish literature has also faced a revolutionary turn (inqalab-e azeem). They have
accepted realism, discarding archaic thoughts and misconceptions (Purani khayaali aur
vehmi baton ko tark karke)…Hajira is a piece of work, whose reformative substance can
hold its ground against any European novel. And indeed this is how a novel should be.”
Muhammad Hassan Khan, 1911
Late Ottoman and early Republican Turkey loomed large in Indian imagination in the late-
nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Whether it was the Russo-Turkish War of 1876-78, or the
movement to stop the dissolution of the Caliphate in the aftermath of World War I, or the new
Turkish Republic declared in 1922, Indian Muslims debated Turkish affairs with concern and later
with admiration. When the Timurids left, Turkish saw its movement from the language of the
durbar, divan, and diplomatic correspondence between Mughal India, Ottoman Empire and Russia,
Urdu literary figures were constantly looking at Eastern models to emulate and sound a
wake up calls for Indian Muslims; consequently Turkey and its literature presented themselves as
firm example of social and literary modernity that had been ushered into Urdu by the likes of Hali.
The section quoted above is taken from the preface of Adalat Khanum’s novel Hajira, a reformative
novel translated into Urdu by Muhammad Hassan Khan in 1911. He had chanced upon its review in
an English newspaper and found it imperative to illustrate to Indian Muslims what their umma was
doing in other Muslim countries in order to promote women’s education—without which they
wouldn’t be counted among great civilisations (muhazzib qaumon) of the world. Conspicuously, the
discussion was a combination of Turkish social reform, and its literature’s value against
disreputable GW Reynolds’ Mysteries or detective romances that were being constantly translated
into Urdu, often as some sort of a Scottish nautanki, insofar even Munshi Premchand dedicates his
2
first book Asrar-e Ma’abid (Mysteries of Places of Worship) to Reynolds.1 Akif Pasha, Rashid
Pasha, Ahmet Afandi and Akram, Hamid and Kamal Bey were a few names listed, who had freed
Turkish literature from praising beloved’s ensnaring locks (baar-e zulf), her pearly teeth (dur-e
dandaan), devotion to her beauty (chaah zankhandaan), and her slender waist (kamar-mashooq ki
tareef). Hajira, a woman’s work critiquing socio-cultural norms that value social standing above
virtues and moral tahzib-ul akhlaq, written in a realistic, conversational Urdu, and stemming from a
modernising Eastern context, was to be a torch-bearer for the coming of age of Urdu novel—vaqayi
novel aisa he hona chahiye. Clearly there was a need to determine literary tastes that could be
allowed to circulate in the world of Indian Muslims and Urdu, and Turkey as a ‘guest language’ was
Literary exchanges within the Indian Ocean rim were not saddled by the extreme asymmetry
of East-West relations, that are characterised by world system of cores ‘diffusing’ and peripheries
‘receiving.’3 In such superficial, generic and universalist categories of ‘global’ and ‘world,’ South-
South literary relations when looked at from Atlantic shores seem to fallen off Moretti's ‘One but
unequal’ map of world literature. World is instead ‘one among many locally produced concepts,’
grounding virtual and real geographies in a sense of positionality, wherein the late modern Urdu
readership chose to inhabit Istanbul.4 Cosmopolitan voices in Urdu travelogues, novels, drama were
constantly addressing vernacular contexts, locally revenant concerns, blurring differenced between
transnational or cosmopolitan and global networks predicated on European ‘centres’ need to give
way to heterogenous pasts from intra-Asian regions of the world that ‘defy easy classification as
1 Naim, CM. “The “Magic-making” Mr. Reynolds”Dawn, Karachi. July 17, 2015. http://cmnaim.com/tag/gwm-reynolds/
2 Liu, Lydia H. Translingual practice: literature national culture and translated modernity, China, 1900–1937. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press. 1995.
3 Moretti, 54-68
in multilingual locals,’ referring to ‘a wider conceptual, imaginative and real geographies that texts,
authors and language communities inhabit, produce and reach out to.’6
Although Turkey was more important for Indian Muslim writers, and not so much for Hindi
and Hindu, these literary actors and fields were not in a close-knit hierarchical power relation that
underpin East-West contacts. Turkish cultural, literary and structural reforms were eagerly discussed
and deterritorialised in multilingual Indian qasbas cities like Aligarh, Lahore, Calcutta, as ‘Indian
émigrés’—in other words, writers, imperial officials, nobles, reformist bureaucrats, and moderate
ulema (scholars)—reporting, translating and transcreating from Turkish to Urdu. Steam, railways
and print had made travel easy, and quite often there was a triangulation between Turkey, India, and
the West implicit in fictional and non-fictional writings by Indian authors. Turkish servet-e funun
(Wealth of Sciences, 1896-1901) translated and adapted fin de siècle French works, perhaps then,
these Turkish works provided a mediating model of literary modernity for Urdu readers and writers
much in the same way that Russian authors did for Marathi ones, or Bengali authors for Hindi.
Being ‘modern’ and ‘Eastern’ was being constantly reformed and re-articulated using the
reforming ‘Eastern’ landscape of Turkey, while also being in conversation with European
representations of the land that had chosen to paint it with a harsh stroke. Simultaneously these
safarnamahs were recording combined journeys into the Western parts of Asia and Europe moving
through Anatolia, Istanbul, Smyrna, Egypt, Lebanon, Bombay and illustrating comparisons of
Muslims, their economic status, their educational institutions, and status of women across these
lands. Quite often they were being published as serialised letters in journals and newspapers
5 Conrad 207
Section I:
“The readers who are seeking to read this as a typical ‘travelogue’ will not be able to
enjoy it. But readers who are interested in knowing about day-to-day matters of Muslim
nations will find my descriptions useful.”
Shibli Numani
In 1892, prominent Islamic scholar and religious reformer Shibli Numani (1857-1914)
decided to write a safarnamah that he himself did not consider true to its genre, about his journey
sailing through the port cities of Aden, Cyprus, Beirut, Port Said, and Izmir. Although this was not
the first time he had undertaken a journey beyond Indian shores, having previously traveled to
Mecca for Hajj, the 1892 voyage was his first extensive trip to the wider Muslim world. He wanted
Safarnamah-e Rum-o Misr-o Sham to be a clarion call for spiritual, intellectual and educational
awakening back home as ‘old’ and ‘new’ forms of knowledge clashed in guises of Dar-ul Ulum
Deoband and Aligarh Muslim University. The opportunity had risen quite spontaneously, when his
friend and mentor, British orientalist Thomas Arnold had told him about travelling to Istanbul.
Shibli had had no time to even procure a passport, an obstacle that will feature almost forty years
later in his disciple Sulaiman Nadvi’s Sair-e Afghanistan as he moves from British controlled
Shibli had no intention to write a travelogue. He was compelled by the thought of his close
friends and family’s eagerness to perforate colonial barriers, and learn about social lives and state of
Muslims outside India; his primary objective thus was not to present to his readers with vast
itineraries of historical sights, comely gardens, and hotel reviews. Much like Hajira’s translator
Hassan Khan, he too was perturbed by how limited Indian Muslims knowledge about the
intellectual and imperialistic achievements of their community. Their understanding was more often
7 Lambert-Hurley, 162
5
based on European stereotypes—considering themselves dull bejaan, corrupt ayuub and uneducated
jahil. Hassan while lamenting Indian Muslims’ ignorance (la-ilmi) in his preface, ‘What will they
know of the past when they are unaware of Muslims and their activities, achievements outside India
in the present (jab haal sa vaqif nahi to maazi se unhe kya aagaahi hogi).’ There was a consensus
on the need for usefulness of literature, for it to be purposeful, uplifting and inspire a sense of
dignity and reform in the context of Muslim politics of late nineteenth and early twentieth century
Numani works along the same vein, treating travel-writing as a form of history writing— a
practice, he realised after looking at European scholars’ orientalist accounts, that was not free of its
own biases. He pushes the genre’s contours, choosing to tour major educational institution and
surveying pedagogical systems along his route, with ‘entire pages given over to charts and figures
‘Travelogues usually tell its readers about the country’s administration, system of trade and
law and order, architecture, but I have included no such features. But the state of society’s education
has been recorded, though the analysis could have been more thorough.’9 Early on in the travelogue,
Numani recalls the increase in number of schools in Turkey from 94 to 405, wondering why
European writers chose to ignore such developments. His three months in Turkey before her moved
systems, strengthening military, educational and constitutional reforms. He covers sections on his
encounters with Turkish women, details of Indians living in Istanbul, desolation of fellow Muslims
across his journeys in comparison with Christians and Jews; all interspersed with personal
anecdotes. Traversing business, hygiene, technology, printing, he notes how Muslims fare in each
sector, mindful that his ‘depiction of the entire umma as impoverished is a rhetorical device meant
8 Majcrowicz 200
9 Numani 1
6
to inspire Indian Muslims into action.’10 He constantly drew parallels with India, insisting that
Muslims of Turkey mirrored the state of Muslims in Hindustan. On looking beyond the nobility
(Sultanate), the state of common Muslims was in no way better in Turkey. They had no truck with
industrial growth, and held a very small share in trade, even ordinary shopkeepers are either Jewish
or Christian. Traditional education was below standard, and modern education faced the same
obstructions that it did in India. And old culture and new value systems opposed each other in the
very same way, no middle-ground had been found. Traditional thinkers continue to be unaware of
the pulsating rhythm of the new age, and the modernists (reformers) speak plenty but do little.
Instead of courage, dignity, strength, the whole qaum (community) was engulfed with hopelessness,
His decision to pen a ilmi safar and give special attention to education institutions, came
from a point of evaluation. His journey very shortly preceded the establishment of Nadvat-ul Ulama
Madrasa in Lucknow in 1894, where he hoped to implement a pedagogical approach that would
provide a middle ground combining the modernising drive of Aligarh Muslim University and the
traditional Islamic scholarship of Dar-ul Ulum. A modern British education would help one secure
administrative position in colonial bureaucracy but lacked mazhab and qaumiyat. And a traditional
system of education where training involves only rote-learning of classical texts would destroy
every acumen in its pupil—what he notes to be the case in Al-Azhar Madrasa where he felt futures
of the twelve thousand students from all over the world were being destroyed.
Shibli felt that in the face of colonial restrictions of travel that came with an imposed British
nationality, and deprived of a balanced narrative of the Islamic heartlands, Indian Muslims had
10 Majchrowicz, 202
11 Shibli 4-5
7
resorted to reading novels, short-stories, and poetry that presented the images of ‘lascivious’ turks
as ‘historical’ facts. This mis-education was spread by impatient (be-sabr) Europeans who were
keen on establishing an incomplete whole with half baked truth (juziyat se kulliyat qaim karna).12
So a reader’s prejudice about Turkey is imperative, like ‘sleeping after consuming sedatives.’13 He
compares it to European travellers’ and commentators’ analysis of India, insisting that lapses of
judgements about a civilisation and its peoples are more among them. On spending a few weeks in
Hindustan they manage to extensively publish on it, as if civilisational knowledge has miraculously
Shibli’s safarnamah worked with a triangulation, that constantly critiqued the state of Indian
Muslims through his commentary on those of Turkey, while highlighting how Europe had
‘significant geography’ he embeds Turkish horizons into the multilingual local cultural matrix of
Urdu readership. His text was at once a literary, pedagogical and historical ‘corrective’ native.
Section II
“There’s a strange mixture of old and new hear, that is beyond the bounds of understanding//
Yahan ajeeb magma purine aur naye khayal ka hai, jo hamari naqis aqlon mein samata
nahi”15
Begum Nazli Rafia Sultana Hassanally (1874-1968) traveled to Istanbul and Anatolia with
her husband, Nawab of Janjira, Sidi Ahmad Khan and her siblings, in the year 1908 when the Young
Turk Movement had successfully restored the Ottoman Constitution of 1876. It had been one of her
last stops while leaving Europe, moving through London, Paris, Austria, Hungary and Switzerland.
She wrote her observations as letters to her sister Zehra Fyzee, with the intention of getting them
12 Numani 3
13 Numani 2
14 Numani 3
15 Fyzee, 258
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published in a woman’s journal for a reform oriented Urdu readership. It was later compiled as a life
narrative called Sair-e Yurope for her ‘muslim brothers and sisters’ as something to ‘think about.’16
It is one of the earliest accounts to be written by a women in Urdu, and covers Istanbul’s hospitality,
‘There is nether eloquence (ibarat arayi) nor rhythm (qafiya peymayi) in this.’17 Moving
beyond a traditional safarnama, Nazli’s epistolary travelogue covers community life, progress
(tadbir-ul manazil), political affairs, trade, artistic endeavours, culture, education et al. And she too
begins her narrative with bemoaning about a lulling ignorance among Indian Muslims about their
esteemed writers, intellectuals—and here too, only solution in sight is women’s education.18 Hers is
a critical gaze that insists on wanting to meet Turkish ladies finds it too difficult owing to strict
Turkish customs, expressing wonder at their strange dual life that was at once more liberated than
Indian Muslim women’s and also worse. She takes Turkish society to account over its archaic
reservations against women’s mobility,19 prohibitions restricting their entry into hotels, lack of
etiquette of receiving people in large gathering because women had been confined to private
quarters for far too long, and the francophone sections obsession with European fashion and the
french language, but no care for knowledge of the world. ‘We have transformed her attires
according to our time’s need, if it were in Turkish women’s hands they would assume their
traditional attires with necessary changes, but that’s impossible here because authentic Turkish
attires have been lost forever.’20 She searches for Islamic intimacy and affection in every
interaction, while remarking on their emulation of European clothes, house decor, hairstyles and
jewellery. There is less talk of Indian ‘backwardness’ and more of the new constitutional
16 Fyzee, 1
17 Fyzee, 1
18 Fyzee, 1
19 Fyzee, 251. She notes that before the Constitutional government, women were not allowed out of their carriages in Dolma Garden,
20 Fyzee, 260
9
governments’ efforts to make women’s assemblies, open up avenues for their interaction with
politics, a sense of purpose and camaraderie.21 The impacts of westernisation on the Turkish society
are discussed throughout, while also highlighting whether the liberated men of Turkey were willing
to accept women's rise in the public sphere. Conspicuously missing is any mention of women as
Nazli and Atiya Fyzee were ‘one of the first elite Muslim women in India to appear in public
unveiled—a social positioning that allowed them not only to circulate in mixed society but also to
write for it,’ and ‘this awareness of writing for men as well as women—whether Muslim, Hindu, or
account is consequently filled with details of her husband’s private and public interactions with
Turkish ministers, the Ottoman Grand Vizier, British Ambassador Gerald Lowther, the Chief
Dragoman of the British Embassy Gerarld Fitzmaurice. Unlike her male counterparts, she is not
busy decrying what Europe has thought and declared of Turkish women, and how exalted they are
in comparison. Rather she chooses to present the difficulty of knowing when segregation and male-
oriented and religiously motivated segregations are to an extreme, disallowing women to voice
themselves and form an opinion. No where is the mention of women’s education as a necessity for
becoming comely wives, or their responsibilities as mothers—but a tussle between old and new,
between freedom and appropriate freedom, that plays out in her depiction of their mobility, outward
Conclusion
The aim of these travelogues and the characterisation of Turkey as a ‘significant geography’
is not to replace Europe with a nation from the Islamic heartland. Industrial revolution remoulded
these westward journeys, that had already been a part of Muslim imagination of themselves in the
21 Fyzee, 261
22 Lambert-Hurley, 162
10
Subcontinent and beyond. Steam and railways facilitated rapid travels, and print and post made
these experiences available for a vast audience in an almost ‘real-time’ format, since these are not
conceptualisations of journeys to the Muslim public. Muslim ideations of history, geography, time
and space changed as they confronted a Muslim past and a European present, hovering around new
concepts of progress (taraqqi) and the Muslim world (al-alam al-Islami).23 Numani and Fyzee’s
travelogues refashioned Turkey as a space of debating Indian Muslims, and not a mere ideal to be
passively emulated. Deracinating Turkey was necessary to expand Muslim print sphere’s world,
mediated through a learned gaze and produced for its audience as a politicised expression of
change. ‘And it was in the age of industrialised communications that the Muslim world was
made.’24
Works Cited
Conrad, Sebastian. What Is Global History? Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2016.
Fyzee, Nazli Rafia. Sair-e-Yurop: Safar-e Yurop ka Ruznamcha. Lahore: Union Steam Press.
1908. Print.
Green, Nile. “Spacetime and the Muslim Journey West: Industrial Communications in the Making of
the ‘Muslim World.’ The American Historical Review. 118.2. 3013: 401-29.
Khanum, Adalat. Hajira. Tr. Muhammad Hassan Khan. Agra: Mufid-e Aam. 1911. Print.
Laachir, Karima, Sara Marzagora and Francesca Orsini. “Multilingual Locals and Significant
Geographies: For a Ground-up and Located Approach to World Literature”. Modern Languages
Open. 2018 (1): 19, pp. 1–8. Web. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3828/mlo.v0i0.190.
Lambert-Hurley, Siobhan. “To Write of the Conjugal Act: Intimacy and Sexuality in Muslim Women’s
Autobiographical Writing in South Asia”. Journal of the History of Sexuality. 2014 (23): 2. pp.
155-181. Web. DOI: https://muse.jhu.edu/article/542473.
Majchrowicz, Daniel. “Travelling for Reform: Shibli Numani’s Journey to Constantinople”. Ed. S.
Mandal. Journeys: Indian Travel Writing. New Delhi: Creative Books. 2013. Print.
Moretti, Franco. “Conjectures on World Literature”. New Left Review 1, January- February 2000:
54-68
23 Green, 403
24 Green, 429
11
Numani, Muhammad Shibli. Safarnamah-e Rum-o Misr-o Sham. Azamgarh: Ma’arif Press, Shibli
Akademi. 2008. Print.