Styleitaliano

Endodontics - Shadeguides
Rubber Dam Perforations UPDATED

13 Nov 2015

Rubber dam perforation templates are numerous and different between diverse manufacturers.

Many rubber dam brands, at least those considered “suitable for aesthetic dentistry” have usually two kind of surfaces, the
front (which is opaque and/or textured) and the back (which is glossy and shiny in order to be more slippery). Traditionally,
rubber dam is marked in the front, making it sometimes to look dirty or stained from the clone stamp ink once the rubber dam
is in place.

We would like to propose you 4 alternatives either to build your own clone stamp or to print a paper pattern.

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Fig. 1 1.- Stamp the BACK: Styleitaliano proposes a ‘mirrored’ template to actually mark this pattern in the ‘back
sideÂ’ of any rubber dam sheet to keep it clean for documentation purposes. In this FREE design, perforations
are inverted to be used from the back, every perforation has its own tooth number and the suggested size of the
perforation (XL, L, M, S, XS), which helps very much to obtain even better and cleaner field isolation: XL=extra
large, L=large, M=medium, S=Small, XS=extra small. The holes near the centre are suitable for unique tooth
perforations as it is commonly done in endodontics.

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Fig. 2 2.- Mark the FRONT: When marking the rubber dam from the front side, we use this template, but not as a clone
stamp, this design delivers too much ink, is better to have a punched template with this design so the rubber dam
can be marked from the front, that way only a little mark will be visible and then it will disappear after the rubber
dam punch. Numbers are positioned normally, not mirrored. The assistant or doctor will use the cardboard or
printed pattern as reference for using the right punch size.

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Fig. 3 3.- FRONT or BACK: Alternative version with no teeth numbers but with sizes, delivers less ink. Is still more
suitable for stamping in the back, but can be used sideways and in both versions clone stamp or cardboard.

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Fig. 4 4.- UNIVERSAL: Only the hole position for the expert operator. Can be used front or back and in both versions.

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Fig. 5 Instructions to build your own clone stamp: 1.- Download the desired image and resize to 15cm x 15cm. 2.- The
image measurements must match your rubber dam box measures (15 x 15 normally) but is suggested to measure
it yourself. If it is not a match, reduce or increase the CANVAS size of the image in Photoshop (do not increase or
decrease size). 3.- In specialized StationerÂ’s shop, ask for a clone stamp construction according to this file, and
ask for a base (wood or plastic) with the dimensions of your box. 4.- Once the clone stamp is ready, stamp your
rubber dam sheets inside the box. Be sure to place them accordingly to where you need the stamp, font or back.
5.- Buy a big ink pad, to be able to impregnate all the clone stamp. Do not abuse ink quantity or pressure,
otherwise the mark will be too strong and useless.

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