Black & Decker Complete Home Improvement With 300 Projects and 2,000 Photos PDF

COMPLETE
HOME
IMPROVEMENT
with 300 Projects EXPA
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25Hou
and 2000 Photos
Sp
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Peel-a :
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COMPLETE
HOME
IMPROVEMENT
with300 Projects
and 2000 Photos
CHANHASSEN, MINNESOTA
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INTRODUCTION ........... . 4 BASIC TECHNIQUES . . . . . . 24 Working with PEX Pipe . . . . . . . . .
Working with Plastic Pipe . . . . . . .
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ROUGH CARPENTRY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Working with Galvanized Iron Pipe . . . . . . .88
PROJECT PLANNING ....... 6 Removing Interior Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Removing Exterior Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Working with Cast-iron Pipe . . . . .
Planning New Plumbing . . . . . . . .
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Learning About Your House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Making Temporary Supports . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Building Codes & Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Removing Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 WIRING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Planning with Universal Design . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Building Partition Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Wiring Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Working with Drawings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Framing Curved Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Planning a Wiring Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Getting Help from Professionals . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Framing with Steel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Common Circuit Layouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
Making a Construction Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Framing Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Installing Electrical Boxes & Cables . . . . . .122
Installing Electrical Devices . . . . . . . . . . . .130
PLUMBING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Installing Telephone Lines & Structured
Plumbing Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Media Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
Working with Copper Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
R EMODELING PROJECTS
DOORS & WINDOWS ....146 Installing a Bay Window . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
Installing Glass Block Windows . . . . . . . . .194
Texturing Walls & Ceilings . . . .
Installing Ceramic Wall Tile . . .
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Selecting Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . . . . .148 Installing a Tubular Skylight . . . . . . . . . . . .198 Adding a Wainscot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244
Installing a Prehung Interior Door . . . . . . .150 Installing a Skylight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 Paneling a Ceiling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
Framing & Installing French Doors . . . . . . .152 Patching Exterior Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210 Installing a Suspended Ceiling . . . . . . . . .252
Installing a Pocket Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Installing Ceiling Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256
Installing an Attic Access Ladder . . . . . . . .158 Installing a Metal Tile Ceiling . . . . . . . . . . .259
Removing Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . . . .162 WALLS & CEILINGS. . . . . . . 216 Installing Interior Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
Installing an Entry Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 Installing Fiberglass Insulation . . . . . . . . . .218
Installing a Patio Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168 Soundproofing Walls & Ceilings . . . . . . . . .220
Installing Replacement Inserts . . . . . . . . . .174 Installing & Finishing Wallboard . . . . . . . . .224 FLOOR FINISHES . . . . . . . . . 274
Installing New Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 Installing Cementboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234 Choosing a Floor Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
Installing a Garden Window . . . . . . . . . . .180 Patching Plaster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235 Preparing for New Flooring . . . . . . . . . . .278
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Removing Floor Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . .280
Removing Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284
DESIGNING KITCHENS Installing
Installing
a Kitchen Sink . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508
a Kitchen Faucet & Drain . . . . . .509
Repairing Subfloors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286 & BATHROOMS . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Installing a Water Filtration System . . . . . .511
Installing Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 Installing a Food Disposer . . . . . . . . . . . . .512
Planning Kitchen & Bathroom
Installing Vinyl Flooring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .292
Remodels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408 Installing a Vent Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .514
Installing a Floor-warming System . . . . . .302
Designing Kitchens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .410 Installing an Island Vent Hood . . . . . . . . .518
Installing Ceramic Floor Tile . . . . . . . . . . .306
Installing Laminate Flooring . . . . . . . . . . . .316 Determining Your Needs . . . . . . . . . . .410
Installing Carpet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324 Selecting Kitchen Elements . . . . . . . . .412
Creating Plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .414
REMODELING
The Universal Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . .418 BATHROOMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
CONVERTING Designing Bathrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .422 Plumbing a Half Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .524
BASEMENTS & ATTICS . . 344 Determining Your Needs . . . . . . . . . . .422 Plumbing a Master Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . .526
Planning the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346 Selecting Bathroom Elements . . . . . . .426 Plumbing a Basement Bath . . . . . . . . . . . .534
Evaluating Your Basement . . . . . . . . .346 Creating Plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .428 Installing a Macerating Toilet . . . . . . . . . . .540
Evaluating Your Attic . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348 The Universal Bathroom . . . . . . . . . . .430 Wiring a Bathroom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .542
Stairways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350 Building a Shower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .546
Installing a Bathtub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .549
Dealing with Basement Moisture . . . .351
Planning the Framing . . . . . . . . . . . . .354
REMODELING Building a Custom-tiled Shower Base . . . .554
Adding or Enlarging KITCHENS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 Installing a Whirlpool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .560
Basement Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . .356 Plumbing a Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .436 Installing Bathtub Surrounds . . . . . . . . . . .566
Planning the Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . .357 Wiring a Remodeled Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . .448 Installing Faucets & Spouts . . . . . . . . . . . .568
Designing a Guest Suite . . . . . . . . . . .360 Painting Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462 Installing Vanities & Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . .571
Preparing Basement Floors . . . . . . . . . . . .362 Refacing Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .464 Installing a Toilet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .576
Building Attic Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366 Installing New Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .466 Installing a Bathroom Vent Fan . . . . . . . . .578
Covering Foundation Walls . . . . . . . . . . . .370 Installing Swing-up, Installing Grab Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .582
Framing Soffits & Chases . . . . . . . . . . . . . .375 Glide-up, & Pull-down Shelves . . . . . .478
Building Attic Kneewalls . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 Installing a Post-form Countertop . . . . . . .482
Framing an Attic Ceiling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 Building a Custom Laminate Countertop . . .486 Reference Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .584
Insulating & Ventilating Roofs . . . . . . . . . .382 Building a Stainless Steel Laminate Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .588
Installing a Gas Fireplace . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384 Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .493 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .590
Building a Wet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .391 Making Custom Wood Countertop Edges . .494 Photo Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .595
Adding Recessed Kneewall Shelves . . . . .398 Building a Ceramic Tile Countertop . . . . .496 Contributors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .596
Building Custom Light Boxes . . . . . . . . . .402 Tiling a Backsplash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .504 Additional Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .597
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care and good judgment when following the included with products, since deviating from the directions may void
procedures described in this book. The Publisher and Black & Decker warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels
cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to required: some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and
persons as a result of misuse of the information provided. some may require professional help.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various Consult your local Building Department for information on building
applications. In some instances, additional techniques not shown in permits, codes and other laws as they apply to your project.
this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions
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The Complete Photo Guide to
Home Improvement
With a collection of over 250 popular remodel- steel wall framing and PEX water pipe—
ing projects, the first edition of The Complete which are quickly gaining in popularity due to
Photo Guide to Home Improvement became the their affordability, easy installation, and high
essential do-it-yourself remodeling guide for performance ratings.
more than a quarter-million homeowners. The subsequent sections of the book are
Covering every aspect of home remodeling, loaded with remodeling projects for every
the book has provided expert advice, in-depth room in the house. In addition to the standard
information, and a wealth of resources to help door, window, wall, ceiling, and flooring instal-
homeowners of various skill levels turn their lations, you’ll discover projects for creating
existing houses into the homes of their specialized or custom versions of the basics,
dreams. such as pocket doors, glass-block windows,
So, how could we improve on a remodeling curved walls, and decorative-metal ceilings.
guide as comprehensive as this? The same way You’ll also find a full section on converting
you improve on the quality and comfort of under-used basements and attics into func-
your home—through expansions, additions, and tional, livable spaces, as well as a new section
updated materials. devoted entirely to planning and designing
Put simply, this new edition of The Complete kitchen and bathroom remodels.
Photo Guide to Home Improvement builds upon An important feature retained from the
its solid foundation to give you much more. previous edition and expanded upon here are
Each section contains new and expanded proj- Universal Design sidebars. Where traditional
ects, updated information to meet all national design concepts and guidelines provide a good
codes, as well as new full-color photographs starting point for creating safe and easy-to-use
and illustrations to reflect the changing func- spaces for everyone in your home, universal
tion and style of your modern home. design takes planning one step further to help
As in the previous edition, the first section you create spaces that accommodate people of
of this book, Project Planning, explains the all sizes, ages, and abilities. See page 17 for a
basics of your home’s structural and mechani- list of the universal design topics covered in
cal systems—things you should understand the book.
before starting any project. You’ll also find Home improvement can seem intimidating,
information on building codes and permits, but it doesn’t have to be. Once you understand
developing plan drawings, and working with a few basic design principles and building
professionals. techniques, you’ll find that most remodeling
The next section, Basic Techniques, covers projects are not difficult to accomplish. With
the details of carpentry, plumbing, and wiring. The Complete Photo Guide to Home
There’s background information on the spe- Improvement in hand, you’ll gain the confi-
cific systems and discussions of the tools, dence and know-how to transform any room
materials, and techniques needed for the proj- in your home into the useful and comfortable
ects in the book. You’ll also be introduced to living space you’ve always desired.
innovative new building materials—such as
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P R O J E C T
P LANNING
Learning About Your House . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Building Codes & Permits. . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Planning with Universal Design. . . . . . . 17
Working with Drawings . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Getting Help from Professionals . . . . . . 20
Making a Construction Plan. . . . . . . . . . 22
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A House with Platform Framing Ridge Skylight
board header
Roof sheathing
Learning About
Shingles
Your House
Rafter Remodeling requires examination of your home’s existing structure and
its various systems—plumbing, wiring, and HVAC (heating, ventila-
tion, and air conditioning). For example, before removing a wall, you
must determine whether it is load-bearing and check for service lines
running within it. Understanding your home’s structure and mapping
Header
its systems will help you determine the feasibility of a project and
estimate how much work is involved.
Load-
Jack stud bearing
wall House Framing
King stud The basic structure of a house is made up of four systems that work
Double together to form a solid structure: the roof, the walls, the floors, and
top the foundation. Most houses are built using one of two framing
plate styles—platform framing or balloon framing. The framing style of your
house determines what kind of temporary supports you will need to
Bottom
Header Cripple
plate
install while making any changes to the structural framing and can
studs affect the complexity of a project. If you have trouble determining what
Joist
Wall
studs
Rim
Subfloor
joist Main
beam
Studs
Joist
Rough
sill
Wall shown Bottom

cutaway for Subfloor plate
Foundation clarity
Support
wall posts
Platform framing (photos, left and above) is identified by the floor-level bottom plates and
ceiling-level top plates to which the wall studs are attached. If you do not have access to
unfinished areas, remove the wall surface at the bottom of a wall to determine what kind of
framing was used in your home.
Footing
8 Project Planning/ Your House

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A House with Balloon Framing
Ridge board Roof

sheathing
Rafters
Shingles
type of framing was used in your home, refer to the original blue- Header
prints, if you have them, or consult a building contractor or licensed
home inspector.
Platform framing is the style used for most houses built after 1930. It
can be identified by its wall studs, which are one story tall and extend
from a bottom plate at the floor (or foundation wall) to a top plate
attached to the joists above. The floor structures are complete platforms Cripple
that extend to the perimeter of the building. Platform framing is easy studs
to alter because the support structure starts at the floor for each story.
Balloon framing, commonly used in homes built before 1930, has
wall studs that extend from the foundation walls to the roof structure. Load-
The first-story floor framing rests on the foundation walls; second- bearing
wall
and third-story floors are supported by 1 × 4 ribbons set into notches
in the wall studs (see illustration, page 10).
With either framing style, the house frame is supported by the foun- Studs
dation walls and a main beam, or girder, in the center of the house; in
turn the framing are supported by the earth around the foundation.
1×4
ribbon King
stud
Wall studs Jack
stud
Joist
Subfloor Sill plate
Rough sill
Bracing
Fireblocks
Main
Joists beam
Subfloor Fireblocks
Floor and
wall shown Support Foundation
cutaway for posts wall
clarity
Balloon framing (photos, right and above) is identified by wall studs that run uninterrupted
from the roof to a sill plate on the foundation. Full-width 2 × blocking installed between the
Footing
floor (and ceiling) joists prevent fire from spreading up through the wall-stud cavities.
Project Planning/ Your House 9

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Project Planning
Floor and Ceiling Framing
Joists
Fireblocking
1×6 Joists
subfloor
Support 2×4
beam studs
run
1 × 4 ribbon through
set into Corner
floors
Blocking Subfloor shown studs stud
cutaway for clarity
Joists carry the structural load of floors and ceilings. The ends of the joists rest on support beams, foundations, or load- Floor joists in balloon-frame houses are nailed to the sides
bearing walls; joists always run perpendicular to their supports. Floor joists typically are 2 × 10 or larger lumber. Ceiling joists, of continuous wall studs. Upper-story joists gain additional
which support only a ceiling finish and sometimes limited storage space, may be 2 × 4 or larger. Blocking or X-bridging is support from 1 × 4 ribbons notched into the studs. Solid
often installed between joists to provide additional support. blocking between the joists provides fire protection.
Roof Framing
Roof Top cord

sheathing
Rafters
Roof sheathing
Joists
Webs
Bottom cord
Rafters, typically made from 2 × 6 or larger lumber, span from the exterior walls to the ridge Trusses, prefabricated frames made from 2 × lumber joined with metal plates or fasteners,
board (or beam) at the peak of the roof. In most rafter-frame roofs, the ceiling joists link the are found in many houses built after 1950. Standard trusses contain bottom and top cords
ends of opposing rafters to create a structural triangle; the frame may also have rafter ties or and interconnecting webs that provide rigidity. Trusses rely on the sum of their parts for sup-
collar ties for additional support (see page 349). Rafters are usually spaced 16" or 24" apart. port and cannot be cut or altered.

Wall Framing
Ceiling (or floor) joists

Ceiling
(or floor)
joists
Single top plate

Double top
plate
Wall studs
Wall studs
Cutaway view Cutaway view
Load-bearing walls carry the structural weight of your home. In platform-frame houses, Non-load-bearing, or partition, walls are interior walls that do not carry the structural
load-bearing walls can be identified by double top plates made from two layers of framing weight of the house. They have a single top plate and can be perpendicular to floor and
lumber. Load-bearing walls include all exterior walls and any interior walls that are aligned ceiling joists but are not aligned above support beams. Any interior wall that is parallel to
above support beams. floor and ceiling joists is a partition wall.
Cripple studs
Header
Header
Jambs
Top Jambs
plate
Top plate
Jack stud
King stud
Bottom plate
Bottom plate Jack stud
Rough sill
King stud
Cripple stud
Door and window frames, called rough openings, are sized according to the dimensions of page 54); some builders use oversized headers, which eliminate the need for cripples. Frames
the door or window unit. In load-bearing walls, the weight from above the opening is borne in non-load-bearing walls may have only a single 2 × 4 for a header. Each end of the header
by the cripple studs, which are supported by a header that spans the opening. A typical is supported by a jack stud that extends to the bottom plate and is nailed to a king stud for
header is made with two pieces of 2 × lumber sandwiched around a layer of 1⁄2" plywood (see support. A window frame has a sill that defines the bottom of the opening.

Project Planning
House Systems
Understanding and mapping your plumbing, Start by drawing a basic map of each of the mechanical or utility room. A crawlspace can
wiring, and heating systems is an essential three main systems. Use the original blue- reveal a lot, too.
step for most remodeling projects. Before you prints of your house or draw new plans for Starting at the systems’ sources—water
cut into a wall, ceiling, or floor, you’ll need to each floor (see pages 18 to 19). The illustra- heater, main service panel, or furnace—follow
know what’s behind the surface. And if your tions here show the major elements of typical the runs of pipe, cable, or duct as they route
plans call for a systems expansion, finding the mechanical systems and demonstrate how between and under floor joists and along
best places to join the new lines to the old smaller lines branch out from the main runs. walls. Note particularly where lines ascend
will influence your design decisions and affect Begin your investigation in the basement, if vertically through walls onto the upper floors.
your budget. you have one. Otherwise, start in the Also note where services enter the house.
Plumbing
Plumbing
Most of the plumbing fixtures in a house are
located near the 3" or 4" drain-waste-vent
(DWV) pipe known as the main stack or the
soil stack, or near an auxiliary DWV stack. The
main stack extends from the basement floor to
the roof and serves as both drain and vent for Main
stack
multiple fixtures.
Auxiliary
Water supply pipes stem from the water DWV stack
meter and the hot water heater and run
together to the various fixtures and appliances.
Because drainpipes rely on gravity to work Auxiliary
properly and must be routed according to DWV stack
strict specifications, it’s best to position new Vent
fixtures near existing drain and vent lines.
Supply pipes, by comparison, use pressure to
feed the system and can be routed almost any-
where.
Follow the steps on pages 92 to 93 to create
Drain
a complete map of your plumbing system.
Water
supply lines
Water
Main heater Water
house
Floor meter
drain
(to sewer) drain
Main
supply line

Wiring HVAC
A home’s electrical system is made up of many circuits, all of which In a forced-air heating system, the furnace feeds a main supply duct,
start from the main service panel, and in some cases, from a subpanel. which connects to branch ducts that supply hot air to the rooms.
Standard electrical cable is slim and flexible and can be routed in Branch ducts servicing the upper floors of the house typically rise
almost any configuration; this can make it difficult to follow the exact straight up through wall-stud cavities. A second system of ducts circu-
route of each circuit but makes it easy to add new circuits. lates cold air back to the furnace.
Mapping your electrical system is easy; simply turn each breaker on To map a forced-air system, follow the ducts back from the supply
and off (or remove each fuse) and find which receptacles, fixtures, and registers and return-air grills to the main ducts in the basement. See
appliances shut down. For a general system map, it’s not necessary to pages 358 to 359 for information on expanding a forced-air system.
locate every individual cable run, but your notes should include all A hydronic (hot water or steam) heating system has a network of
receptacles, fixtures, switches, and hard-wired devices and appliances. pipes that circulates heated water from the boiler to baseboard heaters,
See page 110 for help with mapping your electrical system. convectors, or radiators. Some systems have one pipe that connects to
each fixture; other systems have two.
Wiring HVAC
Branch Floor
supply register
Service duct
head
GFCI
circuit Return-air grill
Return-air duct
Main
supply duct
Standard
lighting and
Electric
receptacle
meter
circuit
Main
service
panel
Main
Dedicated large- return-air
appliance circuit duct
Gas supply Furnace

line

Project Planning
Building Codes
& Permits
Building permits are required for any remod-
eling project that involves a change or
addition to your home’s structure or mechani-
cal systems. Building permits are issued to
ensure your remodeling project meets local
building codes, which establish material stan-
dards, structural requirements, and installation
guidelines for your project. In short, they
ensure that your (or your contractor’s) work is
done properly.
The areas outlined on pages 15 and 16—
room dimensions, exits and openings, light
and ventilation, and fire protection—are
usually covered by general building permits.
If your project involves major changes to
your plumbing, electrical, or HVAC systems,
you may be required to obtain separate per-
mits from the respective administration
departments.
Building permits are required by law, and
getting caught without them can result in
fines from the city and possibly trouble with
your insurance company. Also, work done
without permits can cause problems if you try
to sell your house.
Most local building codes follow the
national codes, such as the National Electrical
Code, but are adapted to meet the demands of Here are some tips to help you prepare for • One set of approved documents is kept by
local conditions and legislation. Keep in mind the permit process: the building official, one set is sent to the
that local codes always supersede national • To obtain a building permit, you must fill applicant, and one set is displayed at the
codes. Always check with your local building out a form from your local building depart- site until the project is completed.
department before finalizing your plans. ment that includes a description of the • Some permits are granted by phase of con-
Before issuing permits, your local building project; your home’s address, legal descrip- struction. After the work for one phase is
department will require plans and cost esti- tion, and occupancy; and an estimate of the completed and inspected, a permit for the
mates for your project. After your plans have project cost. next phase is issued. However, building
been approved, you must pay permit fees, • The building department may require two officials will not guarantee issuance of sub-
which are based on the cost of the project. to four sets of construction documents or sequent permits.
You’ll also learn what inspections are required drawings of your project—including floor • All work is inspected by a building official to
and when you should call for inspections. and elevation plans—to be submitted for ensure compliance with codes and permits.
Once issued, a building permit typically is inspection and approval. • Your project is complete only after the local
good for 180 days. You can apply for an • A building inspector will examine all con- building inspector makes a final inspection
extension by submitting a written request struction plans and stamp or send written and gives approval of your site.
showing justifiable cause for the delay. notification of approval and acceptance.
14 Project Planning/ Building Codes & Permits

Room Dimensions
• Habitable rooms must be at least 7 ft. wide and 7 ft. deep.
• Ceilings in all habitable rooms, hallways, corridors, bathrooms, toilet
7 ft. 6"
rooms, laundry rooms, and basements must be at least 7 ft., 6" high, min.
measured from the finished floor to the lowest part of the ceiling.
• Beams, girders, and other obstructions that are spaced more than 5 ft.
4 ft. apart can extend 6" below the required ceiling height. min.
• In nonhabitable rooms, such as unfinished basements, ceilings may
be 6 ft., 8" from the floor, and beams, girders, and ducts may be
within 6 ft., 4" of the floor. 50 sq. ft.
• Habitable rooms cannot have more than 50% of their floor area floor space
for kitchens
under sloped ceilings less than 7 ft., 6" high, and no portion of a min.
floor area can be under a ceiling less than 5 ft. high.
• Finished floor is not considered measurable floor area when it is
below sloped ceilings less than 5 ft. high or beneath furred ceilings
less than 7 ft., 6" high. 6 ft. 8"
min. 6 ft.4"
• One habitable room in a home must have at least 120 square feet min.
of gross floor area. Other habitable rooms can have gross floor space
of 70 sq. ft. minimum. Unfinished
• Kitchens cannot have less than 50 sq. ft. of gross floor area. basement
• Hallways must be at least 3 ft. wide.
Exits and Openings

• Sleeping rooms and habitable basements must have at least one
egress window or exterior door for emergency escape. Occupants
must be able to open the exit from inside the home, without a key
or tool.
• An egress window must have a net clear opening of at least 5.7 sq.
ft., with a minimum height of 24" and a minimum width of 20".
• Window sills on egress windows cannot be more than 44" above
the floor.
• Egress windows below ground level must have window wells. If
the wells are deeper than 44", they must have permanent ladders or
steps. The steps can project up to 6" into the well but must be usable
when the window is fully opened. Steps must be at least 12" wide
and project at least 3" from the wall. Ladder rungs must be less
than 18" apart.
• Screens, bars, grills, and covers on emergency exits must open easily
and be removable from inside the home, without tools or keys.
• Exit doors must be at least 3 ft. wide and 6 ft., 8" high. They must
provide direct outside access and operate without special knowledge
or tools.
• Bulkhead enclosures may serve as emergency exits in habitable
basements if they provide direct access to the basement and meet
the dimension requirements for emergency exits.
Project Planning/ Building Codes & Permits 15

Project Planning
Natural Light and Ventilation
• Ventilation includes windows, doors, louvers, and other approved
openings, or mechanical systems.
• Windows must equal at least 8% of the floor area in habitable
rooms. The minimum openable area of a window must equal at
least 4% of the room’s floor area.
• In bathrooms, windows must be at least 3 sq. ft., and at least half
of the window must open.
• Windows must open and operate from inside the room, and they
must exit to a street, alley, yard, court, or porch.
• Window light can be replaced by an artificial light if it produces
6.46 lux from 30" above the floor.
• Mechanical ventilation can replace operable windows. In bedrooms,
ventilation must supply outside air at a rate of 15 cubic ft. per
minute (cfm) for each occupant. In primary bedrooms, the rate is
based on two occupants. In additional bedrooms, the rate is based
on one occupant per room.
• In bathrooms, intermittent mechanical ventilation rates must be
50 cfm, and continuous rates must be 20 cfm. Bathroom ventilation
must exhaust to the outside.
Fire Protection
• All concealed and interconnected spaces, such as soffits, drop and
cove ceilings, stair stringers, and areas around vents, pipes, ducts,
chimneys, and fireplaces must be fireblocked to prevent fire spread.
• Exterior walls must be constructed to resist fire for at least one hour,
with exposure from both sides.
• Batts or blankets of fiberglass, mineral wool, or other approved
material must be secured between wall studs and partitions, at the
ceiling and floor level, and at 10-ft. intervals both vertically and
horizontally.
• Foam insulation installed in interior walls covered with 1⁄2" wallboard
or other approved material must have a flame-spread rating of 75 or
less and a smoke-developing index of 450 or less.
• Other insulation, including facings, vapor barriers, and breather
papers, must have a flame-spread index of 25 or less and a smoke-
developing index of 450 or less.
• Loose-fill insulation mounted with screens or supports must have
a flame-spread rating of 25 or less and a smoke-developing index
of 450 or less.
• Wall and ceiling finishes must have a flame-classification rating of
200 or less and a smoke-developing index of 450 or less.
• Smoke alarms must be installed in bedrooms, in hallways near
bedrooms, and on each full story of a home. Multiple alarms must
be wired together so one activation triggers all alarms.
16 Project Planning/ Building Codes & Permits

U N I V E R S A L D E S I G N
Planning with Universal Design

Universal design is intended for all people. While standard your own retirement years. Considering both your current and
home and product designs are based on the “average” person— future needs is an essential part of a fundamental universal
that is, the average adult male—not everyone fits into that design concept: creating a lifespan home—one that accommo-
category. Some people are short, some tall; some have diffi- dates its residents throughout their lives. A lifespan home
culty walking, while others walk ably but find bending enables your aging parents to live comfortably with you now
difficult. And physical abilities change constantly, as do family and will allow you to stay in your home as you grow older. And,
situations. By incorporating universal design into your remod- while universal design makes your everyday life easier, it will
eling plans, you can create spaces that work better for everyone also make your home more appealing to a wide range of poten-
who lives in or visits your home, regardless of their size, age, tial buyers if you choose to sell.
or ability. The universal design boxes featured throughout this book are
Universal design is simply good design that improves every- full of information that will help you plan more thoughtfully;
day situations. For example, wide doorways make passage use the page listings below for easy reference. Much of the
easier for a person carrying a load of laundry as well as for information provided here comes from universal design special-
someone in a wheelchair; a lowered countertop enables a child ists, kitchen and bath designers, physical therapists, specialty
to help prepare dinner and allows a person who tires easily to builders and manufacturers, and organizations such as the
sit while cooking. More a way of thinking than a set of rules, National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA). Some sug-
universal design can be applied to any area of your home— gestions are ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act)
from room layouts to light requirements; while these
fixtures to door hardware. In generally apply to public
all cases, universal design spaces, they often are used as
encourages independence by guidelines for residential
creating a safe, comfortable design. As always, be sure
environment. that all aspects of your project
Many people take on meet local code requirements.
remodeling projects to For more help with plan-
accommodate changes in ning with universal design,
their households. Perhaps contact a qualified profes-
you are remodeling because sional. Many kitchen and
your aging parents are com- bath designers, home
ing to live with you or your builders, and product manu-
grown children or grandchil- facturers specialize in
dren are coming for an universal design. See page
extended visit. Or you may 599 for a list of additional
be preparing your home for resources.
Framing for Accessibility . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Selecting Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148

Versatile Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Flooring for Safe & Easy Movement . . . . . . . . . . .277
Accessible Box Heights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Designing a Guest Suite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360
Simpler Switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 The Universal Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418
Fixtures for a Lifespan Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 The Universal Bathroom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .430
Adding Phone Lines for Safety & Convenience . .142 Installing Grab Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .582
Project Planning/ Universal Design 17

Project Planning
Working with
Drawings
Drawings are necessary for any remodeling
project that involves construction, enlarge-
ment, alteration, repair, demolition, or
change to any major system within your
home. There are two basic types of con-
struction drawings: floor plans and elevation
drawings.
Floor plans show a room as seen from
above. These are useful for showing overall
room dimensions, layouts, and the relation-
ships between neighboring rooms. Elevation
drawings show a side view of a room, show-
ing one wall per drawing. Elevations are
made for both the interior and exterior of a
house and generally show more architectural
detail than floor plans.

Both floor plans and
elevation drawings pro-
vide you with a method
for planning and recording
structural and mechanical
systems for your project. They
also help the local building
department to ensure your project
meets code requirements.
Before you draw up new plans, check
with your home’s architect, builder, or your
local building department. These places often
have copies of your home’s floor plans on file.
If your home is a historic building, your plans
may be on file at a state or local historic office
or university library. Follow the steps on page 19 to create floor
If you are unable to obtain a copy of your plans and elevation drawings. Keep in mind
home’s floor plans, you can draw your own. that your plans may change as your ideas
Use existing blueprints of your home, if available, to trace
This process provides you with a wealth of develop; until you have worked out all the ele-
original floor plans and elevation drawings onto white information about your home. Drawings let ments of your design, consider your plans to
paper. Copy the measurement scale of the original blue- you see how changes will affect your home’s be drafts. When you have arrived at a plan
prints onto the traced drawings. Make photocopies of the overall layout and feel. They also help you plot that meets your needs, draw up final floor and
traced drawings, then use the photocopies to experiment your ideas, list materials, and solve design elevation plans to submit to your local build-
with remodeling ideas. problems. ing department.
18 Project Planning/ Drawings

To create floor plans, draw one story at a
time. First, measure each room on the story
from wall to wall. Transfer the rooms’ dimen-
sions to 1⁄4" grid paper, using a scale of 1⁄4" = 1
ft. Label each room for its use and note its
overall dimensions. Include wall thicknesses,
which you can determine by measuring the
widths of door and window jambs—do not
include the trim.
Next, add these elements to your drawings:
• Windows and doors; note which way the
doors swing.
• Stairs and their direction as it relates to each
story.
• Permanent features, such as plumbing fix-
tures, major appliances, countertops, built-in
furniture, and fireplaces.
• Overhead features, such as exposed beams,
or wall cabinets—use dashed lines.
• Plumbing, electrical, and HVAC elements.
You may want a separate set of drawings for
these mechanical elements and service lines.
• Overall dimensions measured from outside
the house. Use these to check the accuracy
of your interior dimensions.
To create elevation drawings, use the same Draft a detailed floor plan showing the layout of the area that will be remodeled, including accurate measurements. Show
1
⁄4" = 1 ft. scale, and draw everything you see the location of new and existing doors and windows, wiring, and plumbing fixtures.
on one wall (each room has four elevations).
Include:
• Ceiling heights and the heights of signifi-
cant features such as soffits and exposed
beams.
• Doors, including the heights (from the floor
to the top of the opening) and widths.
• Windows, including the height of the sills
and tops of the openings, and widths.
• Trim and other decorative elements.
When your initial floor plans and elevations
are done, use them to sketch your remodeling
layout options. Use overlays to show hidden
elements or proposed changes to a plan.
Photographs of your home’s interior and exte-
rior may also be helpful. Think creatively, and
draw many different sketches; the more design
options you consider, the better your final
plans will be.
When you have completed your remodeling
plans, draft your final drawings and create a Create elevation drawings showing a side-view layout of windows and doors, as viewed from both inside and outside the
materials list for the project. home. Indicate the size of windows and doors, ceiling heights, and the location of wiring and plumbing fixtures.
Project Planning/ Drawings 19

www.allitebooks.com
Project Planning
Getting Help from Professionals

Many do-it-yourselfers hire professionals to expensive, so it’s wise to do some planning of Interior designers work with every room of
plan or complete the more complex or special- your own before contracting their services. your home to create a specific style. Designers
ized aspects of their home remodeling projects. Hourly rates, plus a percentage of materials or sometimes work with building contractors and
Tradespeople are available for planning, total budget, are the most common billing home centers at a lower rate.
designing, managing, building, or finishing arrangements. Architects are licensed professionals who
work. Remodeling professionals generally fall Kitchen and bath designers specialize in design and prepare detailed construction plans
into a few main categories: design profession- designing two of the most important areas of for homes and buildings. Their services are
als, general contractors, and subcontractors. your home. They can provide you with expensive but warranted and sometimes
detailed help or act as general contractors for required for major remodeling projects.
Design Professionals your project. Look for certification by the Building designers are similar to architects.
Design professionals help you at the planning National Kitchen and Bath Association They usually have extensive experience in con-
stages of your project. They are experts at tak- (NKBA), and the initials CKD (certified struction and design but less background in
ing ideas and turning them into project plans kitchen designer) or CBD (certified bath engineering.
and blueprints. These professional services are designer). Design/build firms offer the services of both
designers and general contractors to see a proj-
ect through from start to finish. These firms
generally charge one flat fee.
General Contractors
General contractors manage all aspects of a
remodeling project. They hire, schedule, coor-
dinate, and supervise the activities of all the
professionals working on a job. Good contrac-
tors typically charge a percentage of the total
budget, and many will take on only major
construction projects.
Subcontractors
These professionals provide you with hands-
on help. Subcontractors include all the
professionals in the various building trades,
such as carpenters, plumbers, electricians, and
HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air condi-
tioning) specialists. These subcontractors can
be hired for specific aspects of a project or to
help with planning and problem-solving.
Most subcontractors are good at what they do,
but it’s important to spend some time to find
the right people for your project.
Finding Reputable Contractors

Begin your search for a qualified contractor
with friends and relatives. Word of mouth is
powerful advertising. When you get a referral,
ask what type of work the contractor provided,
whether there were any problems, if the finished
20 Project Planning/ P rofessionals

Call Your Building Inspector
Building inspectors review your project at
various stages to ensure it meets local
building code requirements. And although
inspectors aren’t paid as consultants, they
are experts in their respective fields and
can be excellent resources for specific
questions about building, electrical, or
plumbing applications.
Inspectors are busy, so keep your questions
short. Also request pamphlets or local
code summaries, when available.
product was satisfactory, and whether they

would hire the contractor again.
You can also find quality contractors by con-
tacting kitchen and bath design centers,
design/build firms, builders’ associations, local
trade guilds, or by talking to your local lum-
beryard or home center manager. Yellow
Pages, home shows, and the Internet are other
sources. In general, any contractor you con-
sider should be located close to your home,
have at least five years’ experience with your
type of project, and have license and insur-
ance, endorsements or certifications.
Once you have a list of prospective contrac-
tors, narrow the field with phone interviews.
Tell prospects where you live and what
you want done. Then ask whether they are
interested in the project. If the contractor Once you’ve made a selection, meet with the • Start and completion dates, as well as
seems like a good candidate, schedule a home contractor again to make final arrangements acceptable reasons for delay.
interview. and agree on a contract. • Final inspection and “make good”
A meeting at your home gives you the arrangements.
opportunity to gather information from the Signing Contracts • Amount and due date of each payment
contractor, such as estimates or price quotes, A good contract protects both you and the (usually 1⁄3 to 1⁄2 as the down payment, with
license numbers and insurance information, contractor. It spells out the work to be done, another payment at the project midpoint,
and suppliers and references. It also lets you the payments to be made, and the responsibil- and the last 15% or more paid after the
evaluate the contractor’s demeanor and work ities of each party. A contract can be written work passes your final inspection).
style. Ask when the job can begin, how many to include any pertinent details, but it should • Change-order clause, specifying provisions
people will be on the job, and who will take include the following information: and charges for changes made during the
care of permits. Also discuss the work you will • Description of the work at the specified project (a markup of 10%–15% is considered
do yourself. address, including any work that you will reasonable).
Before you hire a contractor, check refer- complete. • Cleanup, indicating who is responsible for
ences—including a project currently under • Itemization of the building permits required refuse collection and removal.
way, if possible. and who is responsible for obtaining them.
Project Planning/ P rofessionals 21

Project Planning
Making a Construction Plan

The best way to prepare for a remodel project typical construction sequence. Your plan may work you plan to do yourself. In some states,
is to create a construction plan. Having a differ at several points, but thinking through plumbing, electrical, and HVAC work must be
complete construction plan enables you to each of these steps will help you create a com- done by licensed professionals. Also determine
view your entire project at a glance. It helps plete schedule. what types of drawings you’ll need to get per-
you identify potential problems, provides mits and whether you’ll need engineer’s
sense of the time involved, and establishes a 1. Contact the building department drawings and calculations.
logical order of steps. Without a construction To avoid any unpleasant—and expensive—
plan, it’s easy to make costly mistakes, such as surprises, discuss you project with a building 2. Create your drawings
closing up a wall with wallboard before the official. Find out about the building codes in Make your floor plans and elevation drawings
rough-ins have been inspected. your area and what you’ll need to obtain the (see pages 18 to 19). This step also involves
The general steps shown here follow a applicable permits. Explain how much of the most of the design work for your project; you
may want to get help from a professional for
this phase (see pages 20 to 21).
3. Get the permits

Have your final plans reviewed by the building
inspector, and make any necessary adjustments
required to obtain all of the permits for your
project. This is also the time to schedule
inspections. Find out what work must be
inspected and when to call for inspections.
4. Hire contractors
If you’re getting help with your project, it’s
best to find and hire the contractors early in
the process, as their schedules will affect yours.
It may be necessary for some contractors to
obtain their own work permits from the build-
ing department. To avoid problems, make sure
all of the contractors know exactly what work
they are being hired to do and what work you
will be doing yourself. Always check contrac-
tors’ references and make sure any contractors
are licensed and insured before hiring them.
This is also the time to order materials and
arrange for delivery.
5. Complete the framing and major

mechanical changes
Begin the construction work with any major
structural or mechanical changes. Move
mechanical elements and reroute major service
lines. Complete any rough-ins that must
happen before the framing goes up, such as
22 Project Planning/ Const r uction Plan

Add vapor barriers as required by local code.
Make sure everything is in place before you
cover up the framing, then finish the walls and
ceilings. If you’re installing wallboard, do the
ceilings first, then the walls. Tape and finish
the wallboard. Install other finish treatments.
Texture, prime, and paint the wallboard when
it’s convenient. If you are installing a sus-
pended ceiling, do so after you finish the walls.
8. Add the finishing touches

Install doors, moldings, woodwork, cabinets,
and built-in shelving, and lay the floor cover-
ings. The best order for these tasks will
depend on the materials you’re using and the
desired decorative effects.
Install any new plumbing fixtures you have
chosen for bathrooms, and complete the drain
and supply hookups. Make electrical connec-
tions, and install all fixtures, devices, and
appliances. Get a final inspection from the
building inspector.
adding ducts, installing under-floor drains, or

replacing old plumbing. Complete the new
framing. Build the rough openings for win-
dows and doors, and install the windows.
6. Complete the rough-ins

Run drain, waste, and vent (DWV), water,
and gas supply lines. Install electrical boxes,
and run the wiring. Complete the HVAC
rough-ins. Jot down measurements of pipes
and locations of wiring, for future reference.
Have the building inspector approve your
work before you close up the walls. Install any
fixtures that go in during the rough-in stage
(others will come after the wall surfaces are
installed).
7. Finish the walls and ceilings

After your work has passed inspection, insu-
late the walls, ceilings, and pipes. Install
fiberglass insulation used as fireblocking.
Make sure protector plates for pipes and
wires running through framing are in place.
Project Planning/ Const r uction Plan 23

BA
T E C H N
S I C
I Q U E S
Rough Carpentry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Removing Interior Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Removing Exterior Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Making Temporary Supports. . . . . . . . . . . 36
Removing Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Building Partition Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Framing Curved Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Framing with Steel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Framing Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Plumbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Plumbing Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Working with Copper Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Working with PEX Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Working with Plastic Pipe. . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Working with Galvanized Iron Pipe . . . . . 88
Working with Cast-iron Pipe. . . . . . . . . . . 90
Planning New Plumbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Wiring Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Planning a Wiring Project . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Common Circuit Layouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Installing Electrical Boxes & Cables . . . . 122
Installing Electrical Devices . . . . . . . . . . 130
Installing Telephone Lines &
Structured Media Systems . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Basic Techniques: Rough Carpentry
Rough Carpentry
Rough carpentry includes the demolition and framing work that changes
the shape of your house: removing old walls, building new ones, and
expanding or adding openings for doors and windows. For finish car-
pentry projects, such as installing paneling and trim, turn to the Walls
& Ceilings section of this book (page 216).
Many remodeling projects actually begin with demolition, and the
basic procedures are the same whether you’re working with door and
window framing on exterior walls or altering interior walls. The first
step is to determine how your house was framed (see pages 8 to 11).
This will dictate the proper steps for creating wall openings or removing
walls altogether.
After inspecting the walls for hidden mechanicals and rerouting any
utility lines in the project area, you’re ready to remove the interior wall
surfaces (see pages 27 to 31). If you’re replacing old windows and doors,
now is the time to remove them as well (see pages 146 to 163). Where
necessary, you can also remove exterior wall surfaces (see pages 32 to 35),
but don’t remove any framing members yet.
The next step will depend on the nature of your project. If you’re
removing a load-bearing wall or creating a new or enlarged opening in
one, you’ll need to build temporary supports to shore up the ceiling
while the work is being done (see pages 36 to 39). Keep in mind that all
exterior walls are load-bearing. Temporary supports are not necessary for
removing non-load-bearing (partition) walls.
With the supports in place, you can safely complete the framing work
for the project.
Lead Paint
Before removing any surface in a home built before 1980, test for lead,
a hazardous substance. (Lead paint additives were banned in 1978,
but supplies on hand were sold and used beyond that time.) You can
find inexpensive test kits at hardware stores and home centers. If tests
indicate lead, get expert advice. Most paint stores and the paint
department in larger home centers carry free brochures on what’s
known as “lead abatement procedures.” You can also find information
at www.epa.gov.
26 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry
Removing Interior Surfaces Cutaway view
Before you tear into a wall with a hammer or power saw, you need to Second
story
know what lies inside. Start by checking for hidden mechanicals in the
project area. Wiring that’s in the way can be moved fairly easily, as can
water supply pipes and drain vents. If it’s gas piping, drain pipe, or
ducting, however, you’ll probably have to call a professional before you
can move to the next step.
It’s also a good idea to locate all of the framing members in the proj-
ect area. Marking all of the studs, plates, and blocking will help guide
your cuts and prevent unpleasant surprises.
When you’re ready to begin demolition, prepare the work area to help First Project
story wall
contain dust and minimize damage to flooring and other surfaces—
tearing out wallboard and plaster creates a very fine dust that easily finds
its way into neighboring rooms. Cover doorways (even closed ones) and
openings with plastic sheeting. Tape plastic over HVAC registers to pre-
vent dust from circulating through the system. Protect floors with
cardboard or hardboard and plastic or drop cloths. Also, carefully remove
any trim from the project area, cutting painted joints with a utility knife Basement
to reduce the damage to the finish.
Check for hidden plumbing lines, ductwork, wiring, and gas pipes before cutting into a wall.
As an added precaution, turn off the power to all circuits in the work
To locate the lines, examine the areas directly below and above the project wall. In most cases,
area, and shut off the main water supply if you’ll be making cuts near pipes, utility lines, and ductwork run through the wall vertically between floors. Original blue-
water pipes. prints for your house should show the location of many of the utility lines.
Disconnect
wiring here
after shutting
off power
Cutout area
Path of circuit
Disconnect electrical wiring before cutting into walls. Trace the circuit back to a fixture out- Locate framing members using a stud finder or by knocking on the wall and feeling for solid
side the cutout area, then shut off the power and disconnect the wires leading into the cutout points. Verify the findings by driving finish nails through the wall surface. After finding the
area. Turn the power back on and test for current with a circuit tester (inset) before cutting center of one stud, measure over 16" to locate neighboring studs.
into the walls.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces 27

Removing Wallboard
Wallboard is easy to remove. For most jobs, it’s merely a matter of mak-
ing cuts at the edges of the planned opening, then smashing up the
board in between. Keep in mind that wallboard seams are covered with
Sheathing paper tape and wallboard compound. To make a clean break between
panels, cut through the center of the joint with a utility knife (this is
especially important at corners).
Insulation Remove enough wallboard to make plenty of room to install new
framing members. When framing for a window or door, remove the
Vapor wallboard from floor to ceiling and all the way to the first wall studs on
barrier either side of the planned rough opening. If the wallboard was attached
with construction adhesive, clean the framing members with a rasp or
Wallboard an old chisel.
Before you start, shut off the power and inspect the wall for wiring
and plumbing (see page 27).
Tools: Protective eyewear, dust mask, stud finder, chalk line,

circular saw with demolition blade, utility knife, pry bar, drill
or screwgun.
A typical wall consists of wallboard, vapor barrier, insulation, and sheathing. Wallboard in
houses typically is between 3⁄8" and 5⁄8" thick, with 1⁄2" the most common for walls.
Tips for Removing Wallboard
Rough
Rough opening
opening width
8" or width
more
less
than 8"
First stud
First stud beyond beyond rough
rough opening opening
Mark the width of the planned rough opening on the wall, and locate the first stud on VA R I AT I O N : If the rough opening is less than 8" from the next stud, you will not have
either side of the opening. If the rough opening is more than 8" from the next stud, use a room to attach an extra stud. Use a chalk line to mark the cutting line down the center of
chalk line to mark a cutting line on the inside edge of the stud. During framing, an extra stud the wall stud. The exposed portion of the stud will provide backing for the new wallboard.
will be attached to provide backing for the new wallboard (see page 225).
28 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces

Removing Wallboard
A B
Make cutting lines (see page 28). Set a circular saw to the thickness of the wallboard, then Insert the end of a pry bar into the cut, near a corner of the opening. Pull the pry bar until
cut from floor to ceiling along both cutting lines. Use a utility knife to finish the cuts at the the wallboard breaks, then tear away the broken pieces. Take care to avoid damaging the
top and bottom and to cut through the taped horizontal seam where the wall meets the ceil- wallboard outside the planned rough opening.
ing surface. Always wear eye protection and a dust mask when cutting wallboard with a
power saw.
C D
Strike the wallboard with the side of a hammer, then pull it away from the wall with the pry Remove nails, screws, and any remaining wallboard from the framing members, using a pry
bar or your hands. bar or a drill (or screwgun). Remove any vapor barrier and insulation.

Removing Plaster
Plaster removal is a dusty job, so always wear eye protection and a dust
mask during demolition, and use sheets of plastic to protect furniture
Plaster Sheathing and to block open doorways. Also cover the floors well; plaster contains
Wood sand and is very abrasive underfoot. Plaster walls are quite brittle, so
lath work carefully to avoid cracking the plaster beyond the area to be
removed.
If the plaster you’re removing covers most of the wall surface, con-
sider removing the whole interior surface of the wall. Replacing the
Insulation
entire wall with wallboard is easier and produces better results than
trying to patch around a project area.
Before you start, shut off the power and inspect the wall for wiring
and plumbing (see page 27).
Tools: Protective eyewear, dust mask, work gloves, chalk line,

straightedge, utility knife, reciprocating saw or jig saw, avia-
tion snips, pry bar.
Materials: Masking tape, scrap 2 × 4.
Plaster walls usually consist of three layers: plaster surface, wood lath, and insulation.
Sometimes these walls include a layer of metal lath over the wood lath (see variation, page 31).
Removing Plaster
A B C
Mark the wall area to be removed by following the directions Score each cutting line several times with a utility knife, using Beginning at the top of the wall in the center of the planned
on page 28. Apply a double layer of masking tape along the a straightedge as a guide. The lines should be at least 1⁄8" opening, break up the plaster by striking the wall lightly with
outside edge of each cutting line. deep. the side of a hammer. Clear away all plaster—from floor to
ceiling—within 3" of the cutting lines.
30 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces

D E
Break the plaster along the edges by holding a scrap piece of 2 × 4 on edge just inside the Cut through the lath along the edges of the plaster, using a reciprocating saw or
scored lines, and rapping it with a hammer. Use a pry bar to remove the remaining plaster. jig saw.
Metal
lath
VA R I AT I O N : If the wall has metal lath laid over the wood lath, use aviation snips to clip Remove the lath from the studs, using a pry bar. Pry away any remaining nails, and remove
the edges of the metal lath. Press the jagged edges of the lath flat against the stud. The cut any vapor barrier and insulation.
edges of metal lath are very sharp; be sure to wear heavy work gloves.

Removing Exterior Surfaces
Exterior surfaces must be removed when you create or enlarge an
opening for a door or window in an exterior wall. Determine the
best method for your project based on the exterior surface you
have and the type of door or window unit you plan to install.
Wood siding can be cut in place or removed in full pieces to
expose the area for the door or window opening. For doors and
windows with brick molding, you can temporarily set the unit in
Insulation place, trace around the brick molding onto the wood siding,
Insulation then cut the siding to fit exactly around the molding. This
method is shown on pages 164 to 165.
An alternative method is to remove the brick molding from
the door or window unit, then cut the siding roughly flush with
Lap the framed rough opening. After the unit is installed, temporar-
siding ily set the molding in place and trace around it onto the siding.
Building
paper Cut the siding, then permanently attach the molding to the unit
Fiberboard frame. Use this method to install a window with nailing flanges,
sheathing Sheathing but be sure to remove enough siding during the initial cut to
Building provide room for the flanges.
paper Stucco Metal With vinyl or metal siding, it’s best to remove whole pieces of
lath
siding to expose the opening, then cut them to fit after the unit
and molding are installed. Be aware that vinyl and metal siding
Anatomy of a Anatomy of a typically require special trim around openings. Check with the
Sided Wall Stuccoed Wall siding manufacturer before cutting anything, to make sure all of
the necessary pieces are available.
Stucco surfaces can be cut away so that brick molding is
recessed into the wall surface and makes contact with the
sheathing. Or you can use masonry clips (see page 179) and
Nailing flange install the unit with the molding on top of the stucco. (See
pages 214 to 215 for more information on stucco construction.)
If you’re installing a door or window in a new framed opening,
don’t remove the exterior surface until the framing is complete.
Always shut off the power and reroute utility lines before cutting
into a wall. To protect the wall cavities against moisture, cover
new openings as soon as you remove the exterior surface.
Tools: Protective eyewear, stapler, flat pry bar, zip tool,

drill, chalk line, circular saw, reciprocating saw, masonry
chisel and hammer, masonry-cutting blade, masonry bit,
aviation snips.
Materials: Building paper, nails, 1 × 4.
Brick molding comes preattached to most wood- For windows and doors attached with nailing
frame window and door units. To remove the flanges, cut or pry loose the siding material, then
molding, pry along the outside of the frame to remove the nails holding the unit to the sheath-
avoid marring the exposed parts of the jambs ing.
and molding.
32 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces

Tips for Removing Siding
Remove whole pieces of siding to expose the area around a Patch-in building paper after removing siding. Loosen the To remove a piece of wood siding, start by prying up the
door or window opening. Siding is installed in a staggered building paper above the patch area, slip the top of the piece above, using a flat pry bar near nail locations. Knock
pattern so that joints between successive rows do not line up. patch underneath, and attach it with staples. Use roofing the top piece back down with a hammer to expose the raised
Number the siding pieces as you remove them to simplify rein- cement to patch small holes or tears. Do not leave any nails, then pull the nails. Insert spacers between the siding
stallation. sheathing exposed to the elements. and sheathing to make it easier to access work areas. Use a
hacksaw blade or a cold chisel to shear any difficult nails.
Siding shown
cutaway for
clarity
Vinyl and metal siding pieces have a locking J-channel that Board and batten siding is removed by prying off the bat- Shakes and shingles are best removed from large areas with
fits over the bottom of the nailing strip on the piece below. tens from over the boards. Use a pry bar or cat’s paw to a roofing shovel. Use the shovel to pry the siding away from
Use a zip tool (inset) to separate the siding panels. Insert the loosen the battens and nails. the wall. Once the siding is removed, use the shovel or a ham-
zip tool at the overlapping seam nearest the removal area. mer to pull out remaining nails.
Slide the zip tool over the J-channel, pulling outward slightly,
to unlock the joint from the siding below. Remove nails from
the panel, then push the panel down to unlock it. CAUTION:
Metal siding will buckle if bent too far.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces 33

Cutting Wood Siding
A B C
To cut wood siding to expose a framed opening, start from Now from the outside, measure the distance between the Nail a straight 1 × 4 flush with the inside edge of the right
inside the house. Drill through the wall at the corners of the nails to make sure the dimensions are accurate. Mark the cutting line. Sink the nail heads with a nail set to keep them
framed opening. Then push nails through the holes to mark cutting lines with a chalk line stretched between the nails. from scratching the foot of the saw. Set the depth of the cir-
their locations. For round-top windows, drill holes around the Push the nails back through the wall. cular saw blade so it will cut through the siding and
curved outline. sheathing only.
D E F
Siding to
be removed
Siding to
be removed
Rest the saw on the 1 × 4, and cut along the line, using the Reposition the board, and make the remaining cuts. To make Complete the cuts at the corners with a reciprocating saw, jig
edge of the board as a guide. Stop the cuts about 1" short of the final cut, position the board on the outside of the cutout. saw, or chisel. Remove the cutout wall section. If you wish,
the corners to prevent cutting into the framing members. Drive the nails within 11⁄2" of the inside edge of the board, remove the siding pieces from the sheathing and save them
because the siding under this area will be removed to make for future use.
room for the door or window trim.
34 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces

Removing Stucco
A B
Drill corners and mark cutting lines with a chalk line (see page 34). Measure out from the Make straight cuts using a circular saw and masonry-cutting blade. Make several passes with
chalk line the same distance as the width of the molding on the window or door unit. Make the saw, gradually deepening the cuts until the blade just cuts through the metal lath, caus-
a second set of lines at the outer marks (the added margin will allow the brick molding to fit ing sparks to fly. Stop the cuts just ahead of the corners to avoid damaging the stucco past
tight against the wall sheathing). Score the stucco surface around the outer lines, using a the cutting line; complete the cuts with a masonry chisel.
masonry chisel and hammer. The scored grooves should be at least 1⁄8" deep.
C D
Variation: For round-top windows, mark the outline on the Break up the stucco with a masonry hammer or sledgeham- Outline the rough opening on the sheathing, using a
stucco, using a cardboard template. Drill a series of holes mer, exposing the underlying metal lath. Use aviation snips straightedge as a guide. Cut the rough opening along the
around the outline, using a masonry bit. Complete the cut to cut through the lath around the opening. Use a pry bar to inside edge of the framing members, using a circular saw or
with a masonry chisel. pull away the lath and attached stucco. reciprocating saw. Remove the cut section of sheathing.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces 35

Making Temporary Supports

If your project involves removing more than
one stud in a load-bearing wall, you’ll need to
build temporary supports before making any
changes to the framing. To identify a load-
Temporary
top plate bearing wall, see page 11. The techniques for
making temporary supports vary, depending on
whether your house is built with platform
framing or balloon framing.
Platform framing is found in most homes

built after 1930. To make temporary supports,
use hydraulic jacks (see page 37) or a tempo-
rary stud wall (see page 38). The stud-wall
method is a better choice if the supports must
Bottom plate remain in place for more than one day.
(found only If the ceiling and floor joists run parallel to
in platform the wall you are working on, use the method
framing)
shown at the bottom of page 38.
Balloon framing is found in many homes

built before 1930. To make temporary supports
in a balloon-frame house, use the method
Hydraulic shown on page 39. The project shown involves
Temporary bottom plate jacks building a support structure for an exterior
wall on the first floor of a balloon-frame
Temporary supports for a platform-frame house must support the ceiling joists, since the ceiling platform carries the load
house. Consult a professional if you want to
of the upper floors. Platform framing can be identified by the bottom plate to which the wall studs are nailed.
make changes to an interior load-bearing wall
or an exterior wall on an upper floor of a
Braces balloon-frame house.
Whaler
Some remodeling jobs require two tempo-
rary supports. For example, when making a
large opening in or removing an interior load-
bearing wall, you must install supports on both
sides of the wall (see page 42).
NOTE: Load-bearing walls longer than 12 ft.
should be removed only by professionals.
Planned
rough
opening Tools: Protective eyewear, circular saw,
hydraulic jacks, level, drill and 3⁄16" bit
and spade bit, ratchet wrench.
Materials: 2 × 4 lumber, 10d nails,
Temporary supports for a balloon-frame house support the wall studs, which carry the upstairs load. The temporary sup-
3
⁄8 × 3" and 3⁄8 × 4" lag screws, cloth,
port header, called a whaler, is anchored to the wall studs above the planned rough opening, and is supported by wall studs tapered wood shims, 2 × 8 lumber, 2"
and bracing adjacent to the rough opening. Balloon framing can be identified by long wall studs that pass uncut through wallboard screws, nailing plates.
the floor to a sill plate resting on the foundation.
36 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Temporar y Supports

Supporting Platform Framing with Jacks (joists perpendicular to project wall)
A B
Measure the width of the planned rough opening and add 4 ft. so the temporary support will Set the hydraulic jacks on the temporary bottom plate, 2 ft. in from the ends. (Use three jacks if
reach well past the rough opening. Cut three 2 × 4s to that length. Nail two of the 2 × 4s the opening will be more than 8 ft. wide.) For each jack, build a post by nailing together a pair
together with 10d nails to make a top plate for the temporary support; the remaining 2 × 4 of 2 × 4s. The posts should be about 4" shorter than the distance between the ceiling and the
will be the bottom plate. Place the temporary bottom plate on the floor, 3 ft. from the wall, top of the jacks. Attach the posts to the top plate, 2 ft. from the ends, using countersunk 3"
centering it on the planned rough opening. lag screws.
C D
Direction
of joists
Cover the top plate with a thick layer of cloth to protect the ceiling from marks and cracks, Adjust the support structure so the posts are exactly plumb, and raise the hydraulic jacks
then lift the support structure onto the hydraulic jacks. until the top plate just begins to lift the ceiling. Do not lift too far or you may damage the
floor or ceiling.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Temporar y Supports 37

Supporting Platform Framing with a Stud Wall (joists perpendicular to project wall)
A B C
Joists
Build a 2 × 4 stud wall that is 4 ft. wider than the planned Raise up the stud wall and position it 3 ft. from the project Slide a 2 × 4 top plate between the temporary wall and the
wall opening and 13⁄4" shorter than the distance from the wall, centered on the planned rough opening. ceiling. Check to make sure the wall is plumb, and drive
floor to the ceiling. Space the studs about 16" on-center. shims under the top plate at 12" intervals until the wall is
wedged tightly in place.
Supporting Platform Framing with Jacks (joists parallel to project wall)

A B Joists
C
Top plate
2×4
Brace bottom plate
Follow the directions on page 37, except: build two 4-ft.-long Place a 2 × 4 bottom plate directly over a floor joist, then set Adjust the support structure so the posts are exactly plumb,
cross braces, using pairs of 2 × 4s nailed together. Attach the hydraulic jacks on it. For each jack, nail together two 2 × 4s, and pump the hydraulic jacks until the cross braces just
cross braces to the double top plate, 1 ft. from the ends, using 8" shorter than the jack-to-ceiling distance. Nail these posts begin to lift the ceiling. Do not lift too far or you may dam-
countersunk 3" lag screws. to the top plate, 2 ft. from the ends. Cover the braces with age the ceiling or floor.
thick cloth, and set the support structure on the jacks.
38 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Temporar y Supports

Supporting Balloon Framing
A Whaler
B
Nailing plate
Planned
rough
opening
Remove the wall surfaces around the rough opening from floor to ceiling (see pages 27 to 31). Cut two lengths of 2 × 4 to fit snugly between the bottom of the whaler and the floor. Slide
Make a whaler by cutting a 2 × 8 long enough to extend at least 20" past each side of the the 2 × 4s into place at the ends of the whaler, and attach them with nailing plates and
planned rough opening. Center the whaler against the wall studs, flush with the ceiling. Tack 10d nails.
the whaler in place with 2" wallboard screws.
C D
Drill two 3⁄16" holes through the whaler and into each stud it spans. Secure the whaler with Drive tapered shims between the bottom of each temporary 2 × 4 and the floor to help secure
3
⁄8 × 4" lag screws. the support structure.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Temporar y Supports 39

After
Header made
from two pieces Post
of MicroLam
Post
Spacing
blocks
Spacing
blocks
Before
Nailing strip
Removing a wall can open up a room, join two rooms, or add usable living space. A load-
bearing wall must be replaced by a header and posts to carry the weight once borne by the
wall. You may have to remove the wall surface to determine if the wall is load-bearing.
NOTE: Load-bearing walls over 12 ft. long should be removed only by professionals.
40 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Wall Removal

Removing Walls
Removing an existing wall dramatically changes a room. The project is
not complicated, but it may involve serious structural considerations.
The first step is to determine whether the wall you want to remove is Header Sizes
The recommended header sizes shown here are suitable for projects where a full story
load-bearing or non-load-bearing (see page 11). You’ll also need to and roof are located above the rough opening. This chart is intended for rough esti-
check for mechanical lines in the wall and decide whether the lines can mations only. For actual requirements, contact your local building department.
be moved (see page 27).
If the wall is non-load-bearing, you can simply tear it out once the Rough Opening Width Header Size & Construction
mechanicals are dealt with. If it’s load-bearing, you must build a tempo- Up to 3 ft. 1
⁄2" plywood between two 2 × 4s
rary support on both sides of the wall to carry the floor joists above 3 ft. to 4 ft. 1
before removing the wall (see pages 36 to 39). With the wall gone, 4 ft. to 6 ft. 1
you’re ready to install a permanent beam, or header, to span the new
6 ft. to 7 ft. 1
opening. A typical header is 31⁄2" wide—the same as standard wall
framing—and is supported on both ends by posts made from two 7 ft. to 8 ft. 1
2 × 4s. The posts are hidden inside the adjacent walls; the header remains 8 ft. to 12 ft. See Header Materials, below
visible, but covering it with wallboard helps it blend with the ceiling.
Sizing the header (width) for your project is critical: it’s based on the
length of the header, the material it’s made from, and the weight of the Tools: Protective eyewear, dust mask, stud finder, chalk line,
load it must support (the number of floors above). circular saw with demolition and standard blades, utility knife,
In the projects that follow, you’ll see how to remove a wall and install pry bar, drill, reciprocating saw, hydraulic jacks, ratchet
a permanent header to replace a load-bearing wall in a platform-frame wrench, level.
house. The procedures for removing a load-bearing wall in a balloon- Materials (for installing a header): 2 × dimension lumber,
frame house are quite different, and you should consult a professional ⁄8 × 3" lag screws, cloth, MicroLam framing members, 10d com-
3
for help with that type of project. mon nails, wood glue.
Header Materials
Beam made from 2 × 12s and = ouble 91⁄2" MicroLam beam:
D Double 113⁄8" MicroLam beam: 12" Glue-lam beam: 12-ft.
plywood: 8-ft. maximum recom- 10-ft. maximum recommended 11-ft. maximum recom- maximum recommended span.
mended span. span. MicroLam framing mended span. Glue-lam beams are made from
members are made from thin layers of dimension lumber
layers of wood laminate laminated together.
glued together.
Wood beams for headers can be made in a variety of ways. Manufactured beams are stronger and more durable than those made from dimension lumber, and they can carry more weight
in smaller sizes. Consult your local building department or a qualified contractor when choosing materials and sizes for a header.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Wall Removal 41

Removing a Wall (platform framing)
A B
Turn off power and water to the area. Prepare the project site. Remove or reroute any wiring, Remove enough of the surface of the adjoining walls to expose the permanent studs.
plumbing lines, or ductwork. Remove the wall surfaces (see pages 27 to 31).
C D E
Determine if the wall being removed is load-bearing (see Remove the studs by cutting them through the middle with Remove the final stud on each end of the wall. If the wall
page 11). If the wall is load-bearing, install temporary sup- a reciprocating saw and prying them away from the bottom being removed is load-bearing, also remove any nailing studs
ports on each side (see pages 36 to 39). and top plates. or blocking in the adjoining walls directly behind the
removed wall.

F G H
Make two cuts through the top plate, at least 3" apart. Remove the remaining sections of the top plate, using a Cut out a 3"-wide section of the bottom plate. Pry out the
Remove the cut section with a pry bar. pry bar. entire bottom plate. If the removed wall was load-bearing,
install a permanent header (see pages 44 to 45).
Tips For Removing a Section of Wall
3" 11⁄2"
When removing wall surfaces, expose the wall to the first Leave a small portion of exposed bottom plate to serve as the base for posts. In a load-bearing wall, leave 3" of bottom
permanent stud at each side of the opening. plate to hold the double 2 × 4 post that will support the permanent header. In a non-load-bearing wall, leave 11⁄2" of exposed
bottom plate to hold one extra wall stud. Remove the top plates over the entire width of the opening. (See Tip, page 45).

Installing a Permanent Header (platform framing)
A B C
Planned
post
Subfloor
Blocking
M
= ain beam or load-
bearing wall
Subfloor
shown cutaway
for clarity
Mark the location of the planned support posts on the bottom If necessary, cut and install double 2 × blocking between Build a support header to span the width of the removed
plate. Drill through the bottom plate where the support posts joists. (You may need to cut into a finished ceiling to gain wall, including the width of the support posts. (See page 41
will rest to make sure there is a joist directly underneath. If access to this space.) The blocking should be the same size for header recommendations.) In this project, the header is
not, install blocking under the post locations (step B). lumber as the joists. Attach blocks to the joists with 10d nails. built with two lengths of MicroLam joined with 10d nails.
D Temporary E F
supports
not shown
for clarity A
First ceiling joist B
Lay the ends of the header on the bottom plates. Find the Make support posts by cutting pairs of 2 × 4s to length and Measure the thickness (A) and width (B) of the top plate at
length for each support post by measuring between the top joining them side by side with wood glue and 10d nails. each end, then notch the top corners of the header to fit
of the header and the bottom of the first ceiling joist in from around the top plates, using a reciprocating saw (inset).
the wall.

G H I
Lift the header against the ceiling joists, then set the posts Toenail the posts to the header with 10d nails. Check each post for plumb with a level. Adjust the post if nec-
under the ends of the header. If the header will not fit due to essary by tapping the bottom with a hammer. When the post
sagging ceiling joists, raise the joists by jacking up or shim- is plumb, mark a reference line on the bottom plate, and toe-
ming the temporary supports (see page 37). nail each post to the bottom plate.
J K Temporary
supports
not shown
for clarity
Wall surface and studs

shown cutaway for clarity
Cut 2 × 4 nailing strips and attach them to each side of the Cut and toenail spacing blocks to fit into the gaps between T I P : When removing a section of a wall, endnail the wall
post and header with 10d nails. Nailing strips provide a sur- the permanent studs and the nailing strips. Remove the tem- studs to the header with 10d nails (top) and attach the posts
face for attaching new wallboard. porary supports. Patch the wall and, if desired, finish the to the wall studs with countersunk lag screws (bottom).
header with wallboard (see pages 224 to 233).

Building Partition Walls

Wall studs Cripple stud Partition walls are non-load-bearing walls used to define many of the
rooms in your house. While interior load-bearing walls are always per-
Top
pendicular to floor joists, partition walls can run perpendicular or
plate parallel to joists. Partition walls are typically built with 2 × 4 lumber but
can also be built with 35⁄8" steel studs (see pages 52 to 53). Walls that
Header
will hold larger plumbing pipes can be framed with 2 × 6 lumber. For
basement walls that sit on bare concrete, use pressure-treated lumber for
Jack the bottom plates. Partition walls need only support their own weight,
stud
but they must be installed over joists or be supported by blocking
King between joists.
stud This project involves building a wall in place, rather than framing a
complete wall on the floor and tilting it upright, as in new construction.
The build-in-place method allows for variations in floor and ceiling
levels and is generally much easier for remodeling projects.
If your wall will include a door or other opening, see pages 54 to 56
before laying out the wall. Check the local building codes for require-
ments about fireblocking in partition walls. And after your walls are
framed and the mechanical rough-ins are completed, install metal
protector plates where pipes and wires run through framing members
(see page 225).
Bottom Tools: Protective eyewear, chalk line, circular saw, framing

plate square, plumb bob, powder-actuated nailer, T-bevel.
Materials: 2 × 4 lumber, blocking lumber, 16d and 8d common
nails, concrete fasteners, wallboard screws.
A typical partition wall consists of top and bottom plates and 2 × 4 studs spaced 16" on-
center. Use 2 × 6 lumber for walls that will hold large plumbing pipes (inset).
Variations for Fastening Top Plates to Joists

2×4
blocking
Joist
Joist
Blocking
Top Wall
plate stud
Wall
stud Top Top
Joist
plate plate
When a new wall is perpendicular to the ceiling or floor joists above, attach the top plate When a new wall falls between parallel joists, install 2 × 4 blocking between the joists
directly to the joists, using 16d nails. every 24". The blocking supports the new wall’s top plate and provides backing for the ceil-
ing wallboard. If the new wall is aligned with a parallel joist, install blocks on both sides of
the wall, and attach the top plate to the joist (inset).
46 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Partition Walls

Variations for Fastening Bottom Plates to Joists
Bottom
Bottom plate
plate
Bottom
Subfloor plate
2 × Blocking
Joist
Joist
Joist
If a new wall is aligned with a joist below, install the bottom plate directly over the joist or If a new wall falls between parallel joists, install 2 × 6 or larger blocking between the two
off-center over the joist (inset). Off-center placement allows you to nail into the joist but pro- joists below, spaced 24" on center. Nail the bottom plate through the subfloor and into the
vides room underneath the plate for pipes or wiring to go up into the wall. blocking.
Framing a Partition Wall

A B
16"
16"
48"
15 1⁄4"
Mark the location of the leading edge of the new wall’s top plate, then snap a chalk line Set the plates together with their ends flush. Measure from the end of one plate, and make
through the marks across the joists or blocks. Use a framing square, or take measurements, marks for the location of each stud. The first stud should fall 151⁄4" from the end; every stud
to make sure the line is perpendicular to any intersecting walls. Cut the top and bottom plates thereafter should fall 16" on center. Thus, the first 4 × 8-ft. wallboard panel will cover the first
to length. stud and “break” in the center of the fourth stud. Use a square to extend the marks across
both plates. Draw an X at each stud location.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Partition Walls 47

Framing a Partition Wall (cont.)
C D
Position the top plate against the joists, aligning its leading edge with the chalk line. Attach To position the bottom plate, hang a plumb bob from the side edge of the top plate so the
the plate with two 16d nails driven into each joist. Start at one end, and adjust the plate as point nearly touches the floor. When it hangs motionless, mark the point’s location on the
you go to keep the leading edge flush with the chalk line. floor. Make plumb markings at each end of the top plate, then snap a chalk line between the
marks. Position the bottom plate along the chalk line, and use the plumb bob to align the
stud markings between the two plates.
E F G
Fasten the bottom plate to the floor. On concrete, use a Measure between the plates for the length of each stud. Cut Install the studs by toenailing them at a 60° angle through
powder-actuated nailer or masonry screws (see pages 371 to each stud so it fits snugly in place but is not so tight that it the sides of the studs and into the plates. At each end, drive
372), driving a pin or screw every 16". On wood floors, use bows the joists above. If you cut a stud too short, see if it will two 8d nails through one side of the stud and one more
16d nails driven into the joists below. fit somewhere else down the wall. through the center on the other side.
48 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Partition Walls

Tips for Framing Corners
B
B
A
End
B stud
L-corners: Nail 2 × 4 spacers (A) to the inside of the end stud. T-corner meets stud: Fasten 2 × 2 backers (A) to each side of T-corner between studs: Fasten a 1 × 6 backer (A) to the end
Nail an extra stud (B) to the spacers. The extra stud provides the side-wall stud (B). The backers provide a nailing surface stud (B) with wallboard screws. The backer provides a nailing
a surface to attach wallboard at the inside corner. for wallboard. surface for wallboard.
Framing an Angled Partition Wall in an Attic

Top plate
Blocking
Rafter
Kneewall
T-bevel
Rafter Bottom
plate
Studs
Full-size attic partition walls typically run parallel to the rafters and have sloping top plates to transfer the stud layout marks from the bottom to the top plate. To find the proper angle
that extend down to knee walls on either side. To build one, cut the top and bottom plates, for cutting the top ends of the studs, set a level against the top plate (or rafter) and hold it
and mark the stud locations on the bottom plate only. Nail the top plates in place, and use plumb. Then, rest the handle of a T-bevel against the level, and adjust the T-bevel blade to
a plumb bob to position the bottom plate, as with a standard wall. Use the plumb bob again follow the plate. Transfer the angle to the stud ends, and cut them to length.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Partition Walls 49

www.allitebooks.com
Framing Curved Walls

Curved walls have obvious appeal and are surprisingly easy to build. track product made of light-gauge steel has made the construction
Structurally, a curved wall is very similar to a standard non-load-bearing much easier (see page 599 for supplier information). Using the steel
partition wall, with two key differences: the stud spacing, and the mate- track, frame the wall based on a layout drawn onto the floor. Shape the
rials used for the top and bottom wall plates. track to follow the layout, screw together the track pieces to lock in the
Traditionally, plates for curved walls were cut from 3⁄4" plywood—a shape, then add the studs.
somewhat time-consuming and wasteful process—but now a flexible The best stud spacing for your project depends upon the type of fin-
ish material you plan to use. If it’s wallboard, contact the manufacturer
to learn the bending properties of their product. Keep in mind that
wallboard bends more easily when installed with its length perpendicu-
lar to the framing (horizontally), rather than parallel (vertically). Most
wallboard manufacturers offer a “flexible” panel designed for curved
walls (see page 599). If you will be covering the wall with plywood,
space the studs at 2" per foot of outer radius. For example, a wall with a
36" (3 ft.) outer radius should have studs spaced 6" on-center.
By virtue of their shape, curved walls provide some of their own
stability, so that half-walls with pronounced curves may not need addi-
tional support if they’re secured at one end. If your wall needs
additional support, look for ways to tie it into the existing framing, or
install cabinets or other permanent fixtures for stability.
Tools: Framing square, chalk line, marker, aviation snips, drill,

2-ft. level.
Materials: Flexible metal track, masking tape, 7⁄16" type S pan-
head screws, 2 × 4 lumber, 11⁄4" coarse-thread wallboard screws.
2"
4" min.
of strip at
each end of
curve
Steel strip
As a substitute for flexible track, use standard steel track (see page 52). Along the curved
portion of the wall, cut the web and flange on the outside of the curve at 2" intervals. From
the web of a scrap piece, cut a 1"-wide strip that runs the length of the curve, plus 8". Bend
Flexible steel track makes it easy to build walls of almost any shape. Tracks come in 10-ft. the track to follow the curve, then screw the strip to the inside of the outer flange, using 7⁄16"
lengths and fit 2 × 4s or 35⁄8" steel studs. type S screws. This construction requires 12" of straight track at both ends of the curve.
50 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Cur ved Walls

Framing a Curved Wall
A B
Studs
Chalk lines
Radius
Existing wall
Center point
Draw the wall layout. Mark straight portions with parallel chalk lines representing the outside edges of the wall track. Use a Position the track along the layout lines, following the curve
framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicular to the adjoining wall. At the start of the curve, square off from the exactly. Mark the end of the wall onto the track, using a
chalk line and measure out the distance of the radius to mark the curve’s Center point. For small curves (4 ft., or so), drive a marker, then cut the track to length with aviation snips. Cut
nail at the Center point, hook the end of a tape measure on the nail, and draw the curve using the tape and a pencil as a the top track to the same length.
compass; for larger curves, use a straight board nailed at the Center point.
C D E
Strap
Flange
Reposition the bottom track on the layout, then apply mask- Fasten the bottom track to the floor, using 11⁄4" wallboard Fit the top track over the studs and align them with the lay-
ing tape along the outside flanges. Secure the track by screws. Mark the stud layout onto both tracks. Cut the studs out marks. Fasten the studs to the top track with one screw
driving a type S screw through each flange and into the to length. Install the studs one at a time, using a level to on each side, checking the wall for level and height as you
strap. Screw both sides of the track. Set the top track on top plumb each along its narrow edge, then driving a 11⁄4" screw work. Set the level on top of the track, both parallel and per-
of the bottom and match its shape, then tape and screw the through the flange or strap and into the stud on both sides. pendicular to the track, before fastening each stud.
top track.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Cur ved Walls 51

Framing with Steel
Steel framing is quickly becoming a popular wallboard, but 20-gauge results in a some- the tracks and studs together while screwing
alternative to wood in residential construction what sturdier wall. Use 20-gauge studs for the steel framing together.
due to the rising cost of lumber and the walls that will receive cementboard. • Even pressure and slow drill speed make it
advantages that steel offers. Steel framing is With a few exceptions, the layout and fram- easy to start screws. Drive the screws down
fireproof, insect proof, highly rot-resistant, and ing methods used for a steel-frame partition tight, but be careful not to strip the steel.
lightweight. But the most significant advan- wall are the same as for a wood-frame wall. Do not use drill-point screws with 25-gauge
tage is that steel, unlike lumber, is always For more information on framing partition steel, which can strip easily.
perfectly uniform and straight. walls see page 46; see pages 375 to 377 for • Most steel studs have knockouts for running
Steel studs and tracks (plates) are com- help with framing soffits. plumbing and electrical lines through the
monly available at home centers and Here are a few tips for working with steel: framing. Cut each stud to length from the
lumberyards in 15⁄8", 21⁄2", and 35⁄8" widths. • Steel framing is fastened together with same end to keep the knockouts lined up.
25-gauge and 20-gauge steel framing is suit- screws, not nails. Attach steel tracks to • The hand-cut edges of steel framing are
able for most non-load-bearing partition existing wood framing using long wallboard very sharp; wear heavy gloves when handling
walls and soffits that will be covered with screws. Use locking C-clamp pliers to hold them.
E
D
C
F
B
G
A H
Steel framing tools and materials include: plastic spacers (A), locking C-clamp pliers (B), aviation snips (C), 25-ga. track Run electrical and plumbing lines through the stud punch-
and studs (D), and drill or screwgun (E). Use self-tapping screws (inset) to fasten steel components. To install moldings and outs. Building codes require that metal plumbing pipe and
casings, use a type S trim-head screw (F). To fasten wallboard, use a type S bugle-head wallboard screw (G). To fasten studs electrical cable be run through a plastic spacer in each
and tracks together use a 7⁄16" type S pan-head screw (often called a framing screw) (H). punch-out—to prevent galvanic action and electrification of
the wall. Install wood blocking where needed for hanging
decorative accessories or wainscoting.
52 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Steel Framing

Tips for Framing with Steel
Fastening
tab
Web
Flange
Cut steel tracks and studs to size with aviation snips. Cut Install the studs by clamping them to the track with locking Frame door openings 3" wider and 11⁄2" taller than normal,
through the side flanges first, then bend the waste piece back C-clamp pliers. Then, drive a screw through the track into the then wrap the openings with 2 × 4s to simplify hanging the
and cut across the web. stud. Drive one screw at the top and bottom of each side of door. Use track for the steel header piece: Make fastening tabs
the stud. by cutting the flanges and bending down the ends at 90°.
A
A B
Slip stud
Slip stud
Build corners using a slip stud: A slip stud is not fastened until the wallboard on one wall is in place. Form L-shaped cor- Join sections of track with a spliced joint (A) or notched joint
ners (A) by overlapping the tracks. Cut off the flange on one side of one stud, removing enough to allow room for the (B). Make a spliced joint by cutting a 2" slit down the center
overlapping track and wallboard. Form a T-shaped corner (B) by leaving a gap between the tracks for the wallboard. Secure of the web of one track. Slip the other track into the slit and
each slip stud by screwing through the stud into the tracks—and stud, with L-shaped corners—of the adjacent wall. Also secure them both with a screw. Make a notched joint by cut-
screw through the back side of the wallboard into the slip stud, if possible. Where there’s no backing behind the slip stud, ting back the flanges of one track and tapering the web so it
drive screws at a 45° angle through the back corners of the slip stud and into the wallboard. fits into the other track; secure both with a single screw.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Steel Framing 53

Framing Doors & Windows
Cripple stud
The projects that follow show you how to
Top plate build door frames in new partition walls and
new frames in existing exterior walls for both
Header Header platform- and balloon-frame houses. You’ll
also see how to build a window frame in an
exterior wall. The window project shown
Jack involves platform framing; if your house is
stud balloon-frame, follow steps A through I on
pages 58 to 60 to install the header for your
King window. (Consult a professional to install a
King
stud stud window on the second story of a balloon-
frame house.)
Because exterior walls are load-bearing,
Jack their door and window frames must have
stud headers at the top to carry the weight from
Sill
above. For standard doors and windows, con-
struct the header using 2 × lumber and
plywood—called a built-up header. Consult
the chart on page 41 for the recommended
size of lumber required for your header.
When planning the placement of a win-
dow, remember that the bottom of an egress
Bottom window can be no higher than 44" from the
Bottom plate finished floor (see page 15), and windows
plate Cripple
stud lower than 24" may require tempered glaz-
ing. See page 55 for more layout
considerations.
Door frames (above left) have king studs attached to the All of the projects include frames for pre-
Built-up Header wall plates, and jack studs that support the header. Cripple hung door and window units, meaning the
studs transfer the load from above onto the header, and are doors or windows are already mounted in
placed to maintain the stud layout. The dimensions of the their jambs. To lay out and build a door or
2× framed opening are called the rough opening. window frame, you’ll need the exact dimen-
Angled 16d
common Window frames (above) have full-length king studs, as well as jack
sions of the door or window unit. If you
nails don’t have the unit on hand, contact the
studs that support the header. They also have a sill (often a double-
sill) that defines the bottom of the rough opening. manufacturer to get the exact dimensions.
Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for
rough opening size when framing a window.
Tools: Protective eyewear, circular saw, The listed opening usually is 1" wider and
handsaw, 4-ft. level, pry bar, reciprocat- 1
⁄2" taller than the actual dimensions of the
Construction ing saw, nippers, plumb bob, window unit.
adhesive combination square.
1
⁄2" plywood Materials: Door or window unit; 2 ×
2× lumber; 16d, 10d, and 8d common
nails; 1⁄2"- and 3⁄4"-thick plywood; con-
struction adhesive.
54 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Door & Window Framing

Framing for Accessibility

Careful planning can make your new doors and windows • Plan a clear approach space to each window,
more accessible and easier to operate. Make sure all 30" deep × 48" wide.
doors and windows have clear approach spaces • Position view windows at a maximum sill height
and that windows are positioned at heights of 30" to 36", so that children and seated
that accommodate small people and people people can see out.
in wheelchairs. See pages 148 to 149 for tips 32" • Position windows so that hardware
on choosing new doors, windows, and min. is at a maximum height of 48"
18"–24"
hardware. if the window is operable.
• Provide a clear, 48 × 48" approach space in 48" NOTE: Lower sills may pose a
max.
front of each door. This includes an 18"- safety risk to children; be sure
to 24"-wide space between the latch side to choose your window heights
48" 48"
of the door and an adjacent wall—to allow accordingly, and choose
users room to maneuver. 30"–36" tempered glass for lower
• Frame doorless openings at a minimum of 48" windows, when required
30"
32" wide (36" preferred). by local building codes.
Framing a Door Opening in a Partition Wall (Platform framing)

A
King stud King stud

marking marking
Door unit width
Extra 1⁄2" Extra 1⁄2"
Jack stud Jack stud

marking marking
Measure the width of the door unit along the bottom. Add 1" to this dimension to calculate the width of the rough opening (the distance between the jack studs). This gives you a 1⁄2" gap
on each side for adjusting the door frame during installation. Mark the top and bottom plates for the jack and king studs. Install the plates as shown on page 48.
Continued on next page
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Door & Window Framing 55

Framing a Door Opening in a Partition Wall (platform framing) (cont.)
B C D
After you’ve installed the plates, cut the king studs and toe- Measure the full length of the door unit, and add 1⁄2" to deter- Cut and install a cripple stud above the header, centered
nail them in place at the appropriate markings. mine the height of the rough opening. Measure up from the between the king studs. Install any additional cripples
floor and mark the rough opening height onto the king required to maintain the standard 16"-on-center layout of
studs. Cut a 2 × 4 header to fit between the king studs. the wall studs.
Position the header flat with its bottom face at the marks,
and secure it to the king studs with 16d nails.
E F
Cut the jack studs to fit snugly under the header. Fasten them in place by nailing down Saw through the bottom plate so it’s flush with the inside faces of the jack studs. Remove the
through the header, then drive 10d nails through the faces of the jack studs and into the king cut-out portion of the plate. NOTE: If the wall will be finished with wallboard, install the door
studs, spacing the nails 16" apart. after the wallboard is installed.

Framing a Door Opening in an Exterior Wall (platform framing)
A B C
Rough
opening
King
stud
Jack stud
location
Rough opening
After you remove the interior wall surfaces (see pages 27 to If king studs need to be added, measure and cut them to fit Check the king studs with a level to make sure they are
31), measure and mark the rough opening width on the bot- between the bottom plate and top plate. Position the king plumb, then toenail them to the top plate with 10d nails.
tom plate (see step A, page 55). Mark the locations of the jack studs and toenail them to the bottom plate with 10d nails.
studs and king studs on the bottom plate. (Where practical,
use existing studs as king studs.)
D E Intermediate F
stud Top of header
Bottom of
header
Rough
opening
height
Bottom of
header
Measuring from the floor, mark the rough opening height on Determine the size of the header needed (see page 41). Cut two jack studs to reach from the top of the bottom plate
one king stud (see step C, page 56). This line marks the bot- Measure and mark where the top of the header will fit to the bottom of the header as marked on the king studs.
tom of the door header. against a king stud. Use a level to extend the lines across the Nail the jack studs to the king studs with 10d nails driven
intermediate studs to the opposite king stud. every 12". Make temporary supports (see pages 36 to 39) if
you are removing more than one stud.

Framing a Door Opening in an Exterior Wall (platform framing) (cont.)
G Cripple H I
stud
Top of header
Use a circular saw to start cuts at the top header marks on the Build a header to fit between the king studs, on top of the Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the bottom plate next
intermediate studs. (Do not cut king studs.) Make additional jack studs. Use two pieces of 2 × lumber sandwiched around to each jack stud, then remove the bottom plate with a pry
cuts 3" below the initial cuts. Finish each cut with a handsaw. 1
⁄2" plywood (see page 54). Attach the header to the jack bar. Cut off any exposed nails, using nippers. When you’re
Knock out the 3" sections, then remove the cut studs, using a studs, king studs, and cripple studs, using 10d nails. ready to install the door, remove the exterior wall surface (see
pry bar. The remaining stud sections will serve as cripple studs. pages 32 to 35).
Framing a Door Opening in an Exterior Wall (balloon framing)

A
Installed
King stud Extra door
jack
stud
Jack stud Threshold
Plywood
extension
P
= lanned
rough
opening
Joists Subfloor
Sill plate Cut-off Walls shown

Nailing wall studs cutaway for
blocks clarity
A new door opening in a balloon-frame house has studs extending past the subfloor to rest Remove the interior wall surfaces (see pages 27 to 31). Select two existing studs to use as king
on the sill plate. Jack studs rest either on the sill plate or on top of the joists. To provide a sur- studs. The distance between selected studs must be at least 3" wider than the planned rough
face for the door threshold, install nailing blocks, and add plywood to extend the subfloor out opening. Measuring from the floor, mark the rough opening height on a king stud (see step
to the ends of the joists. C, page 56).

B C
Top of
header
Rough
opening
height
Determine the header size (see page 41) and measure and mark where the top of it will fit Use a reciprocating saw to cut open the subfloor between the studs, and remove any fire
against a king stud. Use a level to extend the line across the intermediate studs to the oppo- blocking in the stud cavities. This allows access to the sill plate when installing the jack studs.
site king stud. Make temporary supports if you will be removing more than one wall stud (see pages
36 to 39).
D E F
Top of header
Jack Cripple stud
stud King
King stud
stud
Header
Jack
stud
Use a circular saw to cut the intermediate studs along the top Cut two jack studs to reach from the top of the sill plate to Build a header to fit between the king studs, on top of the
header markings. (Do not cut the king studs.) Make two addi- the rough opening marks on the king studs. Nail the jack jack studs, using two pieces of 2 × lumber sandwiched
tional cuts on each stud, 3" below the first cut and 6" above studs to the king studs with 10d nails driven every 12". around 1⁄2" plywood (see page 41). Attach the header to the
the floor. Finish the cuts with a handsaw, then knock out the jack studs, king studs, and cripple studs, using 10d nails.
3" sections with a hammer. Remove the studs with a pry bar.

Framing a Door Opening in an Exterior Wall (balloon framing) (cont.)
G H
Additional
jack stud
Sill
plate
Measure the rough opening width of the door (see step A, page 55) and mark it on the header. Cut and install additional jack studs, as necessary, to frame the sides of the rough opening.
Use a plumb bob to mark the rough opening on the sill plate (inset). Toenail the jack studs to the header and the sill plate, using 10d nails. NOTE: You may have to
go to the basement to do this.
I J K
Blocking
Additional
jack studs
Stud Joist
Jack
stud
Nailing blocks
Install horizontal 2 × 4 blocking between the studs on each NOTE: Do not begin this step until you are ready to install the Install 2 × 4 nailing blocks next to the jack studs and joists,
side of the rough opening, using 10d nails. Install blocking at door. Remove the exterior wall surface (see pages 32 to 35), flush with the tops of the floor joists. Replace any fire-
the lockset and hinge locations on the new door. and cut off the ends of the exposed studs flush with the tops blocking that was removed. Patch the subfloor area between
of the floor joists, using a reciprocating saw or handsaw. the jack studs with plywood to form a flat, level surface for
the door threshold.

Framing Window Openings
A B C
Prepare the project site, and remove the interior wall surfaces Measure and cut king studs, as needed, to fit between the Check the king studs with a level to make sure they are
(see pages 27 to 31). Measure and mark the rough opening bottom plate and the top plate. Position the king studs and plumb, then toenail them to the top plate with 10d nails.
width on the bottom plate (see page 55). Mark the locations toenail them to the bottom plate with 10d nails.
of the jack studs and king studs on the bottom plate. Where
practical, use the existing studs as king studs.
D E F
King
Intermediate stud
King Intermediate stud
stud stud
Top of Double sill

header
Measuring from the floor, mark the rough opening height on Measure and mark where the top of the window header will Measure down from the bottom header line, and outline the
one of the king studs. This line marks the bottom of the win- fit against the king stud. The header size depends on the dis- rough double sill on the king stud. Use a level to extend the
dow header. For most windows, the recommended rough tance between the king studs (see page 41). Use a level to lines across the intermediate studs to the opposite king stud.
opening is 1⁄2" taller than the height of the window unit. extend the lines across the intermediate studs to the opposite Make temporary supports (see pages 36 to 39) if you will be
king stud. removing more than one stud.

Framing Window Openings (cont.)
G H
Cripple
Bottom stud
of sill
Top of
header
Bottom
of sill
Cripple
Temporary studs
supports
omitted
for clarity
Set a circular saw to its maximum blade depth, then cut through the intermediate studs Knock out the 3" stud sections, then tear out the intermediate studs inside the rough open-
along the lines marking the bottom of the rough sill and along the lines marking the top of ing, using a pry bar. Use nippers to clip away any exposed nails. The remaining sections of
the header. (Do not cut the king studs.) On each stud, make an additional cut about 3" above the cut studs will serve as cripple studs for the window.
each sill cut. Finish the cuts with a handsaw.
I J
Plywood
Cut two jack studs to reach from the top of the bottom plate to the bottom header lines on Build a header to fit between the king studs on top of the jack studs, using two pieces of 2 ×
the king studs. Nail the jack studs to the king studs with 10d nails driven every 12". NOTE: On lumber sandwiched around 1⁄2" plywood (see page 54).
a balloon-frame house, the jack studs will reach to the sill plate.
62 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : C a r p e n t r y / Door & Window Framing

K L
Cripple Rough
stud opening
Header
Jack stud
King stud
Position the header on the jack studs, using a hammer if necessary. Attach the header to the Build the rough sill to reach between the jack studs by nailing together a pair of 2 × 4s.
king studs, jack studs, and cripple studs, using 10d nails. Position the rough sill on the cripple studs, and nail it to the jack studs and cripple studs with
10d nails. When you’re ready to install the window, remove the exterior wall surface (see pages
32 to 35).
Variation For Round-top Windows

A B
Create a template to help with the framing and marking of the rough opening on the sheath- Tape the template to the sheathing, with the top touching the header. Use the template as a
ing. Scribe the outline of the curved frame on cardboard, allowing an extra 1⁄2" for guide for attaching diagonal framing members across the top corners of the framed open-
adjustments within the rough opening. (A 1⁄4 × 11⁄4" metal washer makes a good spacer for ing. The diagonal members should just touch the template. Outline the template on the
scribing the outline.) Cut out the template along the scribed line. sheathing as a guide for cutting the exterior wall surface (see pages 32 to 35).

Framing a Window in a Gable Wall
Although most windows in a home are located wall’s sole plate. One solution is to install an
in load-bearing exterior walls, standard attic extra-long header and sill between two exist-
windows are commonly located in gable walls, ing studs, positioning them at the precise
which often are non-load-bearing. Installing a heights for the rough opening. You can then
H
= eader window in a non-load-bearing gable wall is adjust the width of the rough opening by
fairly simple and doesn’t require a temporary installing vertical studs between the header
support for the framing. Some gable walls, and sill.
Jack however, are load-bearing. A common sign is a
stud
heavy structural ridge beam that supports the
King rafters from underneath, rather than only at Tools: circular saw, handsaw, plumb
stud the rafter ends. Hire a contractor to build win- bob, T-bevel, 4-ft. level, combination
dow frames in load-bearing gable walls. If you square, reciprocating saw.
Cripple aren’t certain what type of wall you have, con-
stud Materials: framed window or door
sult a professional. unit; 2 × 4 lumber; 16d, 10d, and 8d
Sill A common problem with framing in a gable common nails; 1⁄2"-thick plywood; con-
wall is that the positions of the floor joists may struction adhesive.
make it difficult to attach new studs to the
Sole
plate
Framing a Window in a Non-load-bearing Gable Wall

A B C
Determine the rough opening width by measuring the win- Using a plumb bob, transfer the king-stud marks from the Cut the king studs to length, bevel-cutting the top ends so
dow unit and adding 1". Add 3" to that dimension to get the sole plate to the sloping top plates of the gable wall. they meet flush with the top plates. Fasten each king stud in
distance between the king studs. Mark the locations of the place by toenailing the ends with three 8d nails.
king studs onto the sole plate of the gable wall.

D E F
Top of sill
Find the height of the rough opening by measuring the Measure up from the top sill mark, and mark the height of Draw level cutting lines across the intermediate studs at the
height of the window unit and adding 1⁄2". Measure up from the rough opening (bottom of header). Make another mark marks for the bottom of the sill and top of the header. Cut
where the finished floor height will be, and mark the top of 31⁄2" up, to indicate the top of the header. Using a level, trans- along the lines with a reciprocating saw, then remove the
the sill. Make a second mark for the bottom of the sill, 3" fer all of these marks to the other king stud and to all cutout portions. The remaining stud sections will serve as
down from the top mark. intermediate studs. cripple studs.
G H I
Cut the jack studs to reach from the sole plate to the bottom Make a built-up header with 2 × 4s and plywood (page 54). Build the sill to fit snugly between the jack studs by nailing
header marks on the king studs. Nail the jack studs to the Size it to fit snugly between the king studs. Set the header on together two 2 × 4s. Position the sill at the top sill markings,
inside faces of the king studs using 10d common nails driven top of the jack studs. Nail through the king studs into the and toenail it to the jack studs. Toenail the cripple studs to
every 16". header with 16d nails, then toenail the jack studs and the the sill. See pages 32 to 35 to remove the exterior wall surface
cripple studs to the header with 8d nails. and pages 176 to 177 to install the window.

Basic Techniques: Plumbing
(7)
Plumbing
Roof vent
Your remodeling project may involve installing

all-new plumbing lines, branching from exist-
ing lines, and even replacing portions of an
(8)
Waste and older system.
vent stack This section of the book covers the basic
plumbing system (pages 66 to 67), the tools
and materials used in common plumbing pro-
jects (pages 68 to 73), and how to work with
those materials (pages 74 to 91). Tips on
planning your new plumbing and working
within plumbing code guidelines (pages 92
(6)
Vent pipe to 99) are also provided.
(5)
Trap
Plumbing Basics
A typical home plumbing system includes
three basic parts: a water supply system, fix-
(4) tures and appliances, and a drain system. Fresh
Water
heater water enters a home through a main supply
line (1). The water may pass through a meter
(3) (2) that registers the amount used.
Branch
line Immediately after entering the house, a
branch line (3) splits off and feeds a hot water
Branch drain line heater (4). From there, a hot water line runs
parallel to the cold water line to bring water to
Main
shutoff fixtures and appliances in the home.
valve Wastewater from each fixture flows into a
(2) trap (5), then into the drain system, which
Water meter works entirely by gravity. The wastewater flows
downhill through a series of large-diameter
drain pipes attached to a system of vent pipes
(6), which allow air to enter the system via a
roof vent (7). The fresh air prevents suction
that would slow or stop drain water from
flowing freely.
Floor All wastewater eventually reaches the main
drain waste and vent stack (8), which flows into the
(1) Main
sewer line (9) that exits the house near the
supply line (9) foundation and empties into a municipal
Sewer line sewer system or septic tank. Sewer gases rise
through the vent stack to escape the house.
66 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing
The Supply System
Supply pipes deliver hot and cold water
throughout a home’s plumbing system. Prior
to 1950, supply pipes were often made of gal-
vanized iron; in newer homes supply pipes
typically are copper, although plastic (CPVC)
and cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) pipes are
gaining acceptance by many local plumbing
codes. A remodeling project can be a great
Hot water
opportunity to replace old pipes with newer, supply lines
more durable materials. Cold water
supply lines
Water supply pipes are made to withstand
the high pressures of a water supply system.
They have small diameters, usually 1⁄2" to 1",
and are joined with strong, watertight fittings.
The hot and cold lines run in tandem to fix-
tures and appliances and are generally located
inside wall cavities or strapped to the under-
sides of floor joists.
Water supplies are controlled by valves that In from
municipal
are connected to the main line and branch water supply
lines, and near each fixture.
The Drain-Waste-Vent System Vent

Wastewater is carried out of the house by the
drain-waste-vent (DWV) system. This system
takes advantage of gravity, drawing wastewater
down vertical or sloped pipes and into a munic- Vent
ipal sewer system or septic tank. Drain pipe lines
slope is governed by local building codes, but Trap
typically is 1⁄4" per ft.
Made of plastic or cast iron, drain pipes are
larger in diameter than supply pipes, ranging
from 11⁄4" to 4", to allow easy passage of
wastewater through the system. In older
homes, drain pipes may be copper or lead.
Every drain must have a trap, a curved sec-
tion of pipe that holds standing water and
prevents sewer gases from entering the house. Drain
lines
Each time a drain is used, the standing water
is flushed away and replaced by new water.
For wastewater to flow freely, drain pipes are
joined to a vent system that brings outdoor air Out to
into the house to lower the pressure in the municipal
pipes, usually through one or more rooftop sewer
vent stacks. Inadequately vented lines can
interfere with toilet flushing and drain func-
tion, and allow sewer gas backup.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing 67
Tools and Pipe Materials
Recognizing the different types of piping used chromed brass, are durable plumbing materials
in plumbing systems is important for trou- used for drains, valves, and shutoffs.
bleshooting and crucial when purchasing Galvanized iron, suitable for supply and
supplies or making repairs. The materials used DWV purposes, is rarely used today because it
in home plumbing systems are closely regu- corrodes and is difficult to install.
lated by building codes, so look for product Copper is considered the best choice for
standard codes and check local plumbing reg- water supply lines and parts of some DWV Cast iron
ulations prior to making purchases. systems. It resists scale deposits, maintains
Cast iron is commonly used for DWV pur- water flow and pressure, is lightweight, and is
poses. Though it is the strongest piping, it’s easily installed. Copper is more expensive than
very heavy and somewhat difficult to join and plastic.
install. Its thickness helps contain the noise
inherent in drain systems.
Plastic piping is often used in both DWV Helpful Hint
and water supply installations. It’s inexpensive, ABS
easy to handle, doesn’t corrode or rust, and has When pipes of different metals touch each
insulating properties. Plastic pipe is available other, a process called galvanic action can
lead to premature corrosion. Use only brack-
in four types: PVC is used exclusively in home
ets and straps made of the same material
drain systems; CPVC and PEX are suitable as your pipes. To join dissimilar metals, such
for water supply lines, and PE is used for out- as galvanized iron and copper, you must
door water supply pipes. use dielectric fittings.
Brass, and the more expensive but attractive PVC
Chromed
brass
CPVC
B C
A
Galvanized
iron
I
Black iron
Rigid copper
Chromed
copper
D E K
J PEX PE
F G H
Plumbing tools include: Propane torch with starter, solder paste, and lead-free solder (A), tubing cutter (B), hacksaw (C),
rubber mallet (D), file (E), ratchet wrench with sockets (F), wire brush (G), channel-type pliers (H), ball peen hammer (I),
adjustable wrenches (J), and pipe wrenches (K). You will use these tools extensively during remodeling projects and when mak- Flexible copper
tubing
ing future repairs. Specialty and power tools for plumbing projects can be purchased in home centers or rented from rental
centers.
68 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Materials

Benefits & Characteristics Common Uses Fitting Methods Tools for Cutting
Cast iron is very strong but is difficult to Main drain-waste- Joined with hubbed Cast iron cutter or hacksaw
cut and fit. Repairs and replacements should vent pipes fittings or banded couplings
be made with plastic pipe, if allowed by code.
ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene) was the Drain & vent pipes; Joined with solvent glue Tubing cutter, miter saw, or
first rigid plastic approved for use in home drain traps and plastic fittings hacksaw
drain systems. Codes now prohibits the use
of ABS in new installations.
PVC (Poly-Vinyl-Chloride) is a modern rigid Drain & vent pipes; Joined with solvent glue Tubing cutter, miter saw, or
plastic that is highly resistant to damage by drain traps and plastic fittings hacksaw
heat or chemicals. It is the best material for
drain-waste-vent (DWV) pipes.
Chromed brass has an attractive, shiny surface Valves & shutoffs; Joined with compression Tubing cutter, hacksaw, or
and is used for drain traps where appear- chromed drain traps fittings, or with metal solder reciprocating saw
ance is important.
CPVC (Chlorinated-Poly-Vinyl-Chloride) rigid Hot & cold water Joined with solvent glue Tubing cutter, miter saw,
plastic is chemically formulated to withstand supply pipes and plastic fittings, or with or hacksaw
the high temperatures and pressures of plastic compression fittings
water supply systems. Pipes and fittings
are inexpensive.
Galvanized iron is very strong but gradually Drains; hot & cold Joined with galvanized Hacksaw or reciprocating
will corrode. Not advised for new installation. water supply pipes threaded fittings saw
Galvanized iron is difficult to cut and
fit; large jobs are best left to professionals.
Black iron looks much like galvanized iron Gas piping Joined with black iron Hacksaw or reciprocating
but is used for gas piping, not for plumbing. threaded fittings saw
Repairs should be handled by professionals.
Rigid copper is the best material for water Hot & cold water Joined with metal solder Tubing cutter, hacksaw, or
supply pipes. It resists corrosion and has supply pipes or compression fittings jig saw
smooth surfaces that provide good water
flow. Soldered copper joints are very durable.
Chromed copper has an attractive, shiny Supply tubing for Joined with brass compression Tubing cutter or hacksaw
surface and is used in areas where appearance plumbing fixtures fittings
is important. Chromed copper is durable and
easy to bend and fit.
PE (polyethylene) plastic is a black or bluish Outdoor cold water Joined with rigid PVC Ratchet-style plastic pipe
flexible pipe sometimes used for main water supply pipes fittings and stainless steel cutter or miter saw
service lines as well as irrigation systems. hose clamps
Flexible copper tubing is easy to shape and Gas tubing, hot & cold Joined with brass flare fittings, Tubing cutter or hacksaw
will withstand a slight frost without rupturing. water supply tubing compression fittings, or metal
Flexible copper bends easily around corners, solder
so it requires fewer fittings than rigid copper.
PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is flexible, easy to Hot & cold water supply Joined with crimp or compression Plastic tubing cutter
install, and strong, capable of withstanding tubing, supply tubing fittings
temperatures ranging from below freezing to 180° for hydronic radiant
Fahrenheit. heat systems
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Materials 69

Valves & Fittings
Always use fittings made from the same materials as your pipes. If
unlike materials are to be joined, use a transition fitting.
Fittings come in many sizes, but the basic shapes are standard to all Gate valve
metal and plastic pipes. In general, fittings used to connect DWV pipes
have gradual bends for a smooth flow of wastewater from drains.
Because water in supply lines moves under pressure, the bends in water Drain-and-waste valves
supply fittings can be sharper, conserving space.
90° elbows make right-angle bends in a pipe run. DWV elbows are
curved so debris doesn’t get trapped in the bends. Elbows are also avail-
able in 221⁄2°, 45°, and 60° bends to create gradual bends in pipe runs.
T-fittings connect branch lines in water supply and DWV systems. In Fixture
shutoff
a DWV system they are called waste or sanitary Ts and vent Ts. Full-bore ball valves valve
Couplings join two straight pipes. Special transition fittings (opposite
page) are used to join two pipes of different materials.
Reducers connect pipes of different diameters. Reducing T-fittings
and elbows are also available.
Vacuum breaker
Caps close off unused sections of pipe. Hose bib
Y-fittings join intersecting DWV pipes.
Standard Fittings
Supply 900 elbows T-fittings Couplings Reducers 450 elbows Caps
Copper
Galvanized
iron
CPVC
DWV 900 elbows T-fittings Couplings Reducers 450 elbows Y-fittings
PVC
ABS

Using Transition Fittings
D6-
Female adapter
Male adapter Solvent-glued

fittings
Connect plastic to cast iron with banded couplings. Rubber Connect plastic to threaded metal pipes with male and female threaded adapters. Glue a plastic adapter to the plastic
sleeves cover the ends of the pipes for a watertight joint. pipe with solvent-based glue. Wrap the threads of the pipe with Teflon tape, then screw the metal pipe directly to the adapter.
Dielectric union Plastic pipe
Spacer Hot water

transition
fitting
Teflon tape
Soldered joint Metal water heater nipple
Connect copper to galvanized iron with a dielectric union. Attach the threaded end of the Connect metal hot water pipe to plastic with a hot water transition fitting that prevents
union to the iron pipe and solder the other end to the copper pipe. A dielectric union has a leaks caused by different expansion rates of materials. Wrap the metal pipe threads of the
plastic spacer that prevents corrosion caused by galvanic action. water heater nipple with Teflon tape, and attach the threaded end of the fitting. Solvent-glue
the other end of the fitting to the plastic pipe.
Fixture Appliance
tailpiece supply tube
Saddle valve
Coupling
nut
Supply
tube
Water
pipe
Shutoff Supply tube

valve
Water pipe
Connect a water pipe to any fixture supply tube with a Connect any supply tube to a fixture tailpiece with a cou- Connect an appliance supply tube to a copper water pipe
shutoff valve. Be sure that the diameter of the valve matches pling nut. A coupling nut seals the bell-shaped end of the with a saddle valve. Saddle valves (shown here cutaway)
that of the water pipe. Tighten the valve and check for leaks. supply tube against the fixture tailpiece. often are used to connect refrigerator ice makers. Some
codes prohibit saddle valves. Use a T-fitting if this is the case.

DWV Fittings
DWV fittings come in a variety
Vent Vent T (must connect
of shapes to serve different
elbow to waste-vent stack at a functions within the plumbing
point at least 6" above system. Each fitting is available
the highest fixture)
in a variety of sizes to match
your needs. Always use fittings
Vent pipes made from the same material as
your DWV pipes.
Vents: In general, the fittings

used to connect vent pipes have
very sharp bends with no
Waste sweep. Vent fittings include the
T-fitting vent T and vent 90° elbow.
Drain Standard drain pipe fittings can
trap also be used to join vent pipes.
Horizontal-to-vertical drains:
To change directions in a drain
Closet pipe from horizontal to vertical,
Low-heel bend use fittings with a noticeable
vent 90°
Drain pipes sweep. Standard fittings for this
use include waste T-fittings and
Cleanout 90° elbows. Y-fittings and 45°
and 221⁄2° elbows can also be
used for this purpose.
Long-radius Vertical-to-horizontal drains:

T-Y-fitting Y-fitting To change directions from ver-
with 45°
elbow tical to horizontal, use fittings
(combo) with a long, gradual sweep.
Common fittings for this pur-
pose include the long-radius
Main T-Y-fitting and some Y-fittings
waste
stack with 45° elbows.
Cleanout Horizontal offsets in drains:
Y-fittings, 45° elbows, 221⁄2°
elbows, and long-sweep 90°
elbows are used when changing
directions in horizontal pipe
runs. Whenever possible, hori-
Y-fitting
zontal drain pipes should use
gradual, sweeping bends rather
A basic DWV tree shows the correct orientation of drain and vent fittings in a plumbing system. Bends in vent pipes can be very sharp, but than sharp turns.
drain pipes should use fittings with a noticeable sweep. Fittings used to direct falling wastewater from a vertical to a horizontal pipe should have
bends that are even more sweeping. Local plumbing code may require that you install cleanout fittings where vertical drain pipes meet hori-
zontal runs.

T-fittings Low-heel Waste T Elbows
vent 90°
Vent elbow
90° elbow
Long-sweep
90° elbow
Vent T
Closet
bend
Reducing
Street elbow
elbow
Waste T with 45° elbow
additional 221⁄2° elbow
side inlet
Waste cross
Y-fittings Specialty Fittings

Cleanout
Cap plug
Test caps
Y with 45° Y with

elbow cleanout
(combo) plug
P-trap with
P-trap solvent-
with slip glued
fittings fittings
Banded clamp
Reducing
Y-fitting Y-fitting Reducing
bushing
Reducer
Coupling
Fittings for DWV pipes are available in many configurations, with openings that range from return leftover materials after you complete your project than it is to interrupt your work each
11⁄4" to 4" in diameter. When planning your project, buy a large supply of DWV and water sup- time you need to shop for an additional fitting.
ply fittings from a reputable retailer with a good return policy. It is much more efficient to

Working with Copper Pipe
Copper is the ideal material for water supply used primarily for gas service lines. Because it
pipes. It resists corrosion and has smooth sur- is bendable and resists mild frosts, Type L
faces that provide good water flow. Copper may be installed as part of a water supply sys-
pipes are available in several diameters, but tem in unheated indoor areas, such as
most home water supply systems use 1⁄2" or 3⁄4" crawlspaces. Type K is used for underground
pipe. Copper pipe is manufactured in rigid water service lines.
and flexible forms. A third form of copper, called DWV, is used
Rigid copper, sometimes called hard copper, for drain systems. Because most codes now
is approved for home water supply systems by allow low-cost plastic pipes for drain systems, ASTM
all local codes. It comes in three wall-thickness DWV copper is seldom used. rating
grades: Types M, L, and K. Type M is thin Copper pipes are usually connected with
and inexpensive, which makes it a good choice soldered fittings. Correctly soldered fittings Diameter
for do-it-yourself home plumbing. are strong and trouble-free. Copper pipe can
Rigid Type L usually is required by codes also be joined with compression fittings,
for commercial plumbing systems. Because it which are more expensive than soldered joints,
is strong and solders easily, Type L may be but which allow pipes or fixtures to be
preferred by some professional plumbers, and repaired or replaced readily. Flare fittings are Wall-thickness
grade
by do-it-yourselfers for home use. Type K has used only with flexible copper pipes, usually as
the heaviest wall thickness, and most often is a gas-line fitting; it’s best to leave these to
used for underground water service lines. professionals.
Flexible copper, also called soft copper, comes Many remodeling projects involve separat- Check the grade stamp information for pipe diameter,
in two wall-thickness grades: Types L and K. ing existing joints to extend copper lines or wall-thickness grade, and stamp of approval from the
Both are approved for most home water sup- remove defective pipes; this isn’t difficult, but American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). Type M
ply systems, although flexible Type L copper is it’s important to work carefully. pipe is identified by red lettering, Type L by blue lettering.
Tips for Working with Copper Pipe
Fitting socket Fitting socket

T-fitting
Elbow cut cut away
away to show to show
depth of pipe depth of
pipe
Length of pipe
Bend flexible copper pipe with a coil-spring tubing bender Determine the length of copper pipe needed by measuring between the bottom of the copper fitting sockets (fittings shown
to avoid kinks. Use a bender that matches the outside pipe here cutaway). Mark the length on the pipe with a felt-tipped pen.
diameter; slip it over the pipe with a twisting motion, and
bend slowly into the correct angle, but not more than 90°.
74 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Copper Pipe

Copper Pipe & Fitting Chart
Rigid Copper Flexible Copper
Fitting Method Type M Type L Type K Type L Type K General Comments
Soldered yes yes yes yes yes Inexpensive, strong, and trouble-free
fitting method. Requires some skill.
Easy to use. Allows pipes or fixtures

Compression yes not yes yes to be repaired or replaced readily.
recommended More expensive than solder. Best used
on flexible copper.
Flare no no no yes yes Use only with flexible copper pipes.

Usually used as a gas-line fitting.
Requires some skill.
Taking Apart Soldered Joints

A B C D
Turn off the water at the main shutoff valve Separate the pipes from the fitting with Remove the old solder by heating the ends of Allow the pipes to cool, then use an emery
(see page 66) and drain the pipes by opening channel-type pliers. Discard the old fittings— the pipe with the propane torch. Carefully cloth to polish the ends down to the bare
the highest and lowest faucets in the house. they should not be reused. wipe away the melted solder with a dry metal. Any residual solder or metal burrs left
Light a propane torch (see page 78) and hold rag. Work quickly, but cautiously. The pipes on the pipe may cause the new joint to leak.
the flame tip to the fitting until the solder will be hot.
becomes shiny and begins to melt.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Copper Pipe 75

Cutting & Soldering Copper Pipe
The best way to cut rigid and flexible copper pipe is with a tubing cut-
ter. A tubing cutter makes a smooth, straight cut—an important first
step toward making a watertight joint. Remove any metal burrs on the
cut edges with a reaming tool or round file.
Copper also can be cut with a hacksaw, which is useful in tight areas
where a tubing cutter won’t fit. Since it is more difficult to be accurate
with a hacksaw, take care to make smooth, straight cuts.
To form a watertight seal, start with copper pipes and fittings that
are clean and dry. Practice soldering scrap pipe before starting your
project. Protect flammable surfaces with a double layer of 26-gauge
sheet metal or a heat-absorbent pad.
A soldered pipe joint, also called a sweated joint, is made by heating a
copper or brass fitting with a propane torch until the fitting is just hot
enough to melt metal solder. The heat draws the solder into the gap
between the fitting and the pipe to form a watertight seal. A fitting
that is overheated or unevenly heated will not draw in solder. The tip
of the torch’s inner flame produces the most heat.
Tools: Tubing cutter with reaming tip (or hacksaw and round
file), wire brush, flux brush, propane torch, adjustable wrench.
Materials: Copper pipe, copper fittings (or brass valve), emery
cloth, soldering paste (flux), lead-free solder, dry rag.
Protect wood from the heat of the torch flame while soldering, using a double layer (two
18 × 18" pieces) of 26-gauge sheet metal available at hardware stores or home centers.
Tips for Soldering Copper Pipe
Use caution when soldering copper. Allow pipes and fittings Keep joints dry when soldering existing water pipes by plug- Prevent accidents by shutting off the propane torch imme-
time to cool before handling them. ging the pipe ends with bread. Bread absorbs moisture that diately after use; make sure the valve is completely closed.
would ruin the soldering process and cause pinhole leaks. The
bread dissolves when the water is turned back on.

A Cutting
B C
wheel
Roller
Place a tubing cutter over the pipe, then tighten the handle Turn the tubing cutter one rotation to score a continuous Rotate the cutter in the opposite direction, tightening the han-
so the pipe rests on both rollers, and the cutting wheel is on straight line around the pipe. dle slightly after every two rotations, until the cut is complete.
the marked line.
D E F
Reaming point
Emery cloth
Remove sharp metal burrs from the inside edge of the cut Clean the end of each pipe by sanding it with emery cloth. Clean inside each fitting by scouring with a wire brush or
pipe, using the reaming point on the tubing cutter or a The ends must be free of dirt and grease to ensure that the emery cloth.
round file. solder forms a good seal.

Cutting & Soldering Copper Pipe (cont.)
G H I
Flux Fitting
brush
Pipe
Apply a thin layer of soldering paste (flux) to the end of each Assemble each joint by inserting the pipe into the fitting so it Prepare the wire solder by unwinding 8" to 10" of wire from
pipe, using a flux brush. Cover about 1" of the end of the pipe is tight against the bottom of the fitting sockets. Twist the fit- the spool. Bend the first 2" of the wire to a 90° angle.
with the paste. ting slightly to spread the soldering paste.
J K L
Open the gas valve and trigger the spark lighter to ignite the Adjust the valve on the torch until the inner gas flame is 1” Hold the flame tip against the middle of the fitting for 4 to 5
torch. to 2” long. seconds, until the soldering paste begins to sizzle.

M N O
Lip of
fitting
Heat the other side of the copper fitting to ensure that the Remove the torch and quickly push 1⁄2" to 3⁄4" of solder into Carefully wipe away excess solder with a dry rag. (The pipes
heat is distributed evenly. Touch the solder to the pipe. If the each joint. Capillary action fills the joint with liquid solder. A will be hot.) When all joints have cooled, turn on the water
solder melts, the joint is ready to be soldered. correctly soldered joint shows a thin bead of solder around and check for leaks. If a joint leaks, drain the pipes, dis-
the lip of the fitting. assemble and clean the pipe and fittings, then resolder
the joint.
Soldering Brass Valves

A B
Remove the valve stem with an adjustable wrench to prevent heat damage to rubber or Light a propane torch. Heat the body of the valve, moving the flame to distribute the heat
plastic stem parts while soldering. Prepare the copper pipes (see pages 77 to 78) and assem- evenly. Concentrate the flame on the brass—it is denser than copper and requires more heat
ble the joints. before the joints will draw solder. Apply the solder (steps M through O, above). Let the joint
cool, then reassemble the valve.

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Using Compression Fittings
When cramped or poorly ventilated spaces length of pipe that must fit inside the valve.
make it difficult or unsafe to solder, compres- As with all plumbing joints, smooth, straight Compression nut Compression ring
sion fittings are a good choice. They’re also cuts are vital to forming watertight seals. Cut
appropriate for connections that may need to tubing with a tubing cutter or a hacksaw (see
be taken apart at a later date. Because they’re page 77) and remove any metal burrs on the
easy to disconnect, compression fittings often cut edges, using a reaming tool or round file.
are used to install supply tubes and fixture Compression fittings tend to cross thread, so
shutoff valves. check the fittings for leaks after the assembly.
Compression fittings work well with flexible To ensure a watertight seal, cover threads with
copper pipe, which is soft enough to allow the pipe joint compound or Teflon tape before
compression ring to seat snugly, creating a assembling the fittings.
watertight seal. They are also used to make
connections with Type M rigid copper pipe.
Compression fittings are available in unions, Tools: Felt-tipped pen, tubing cutter or
90° elbows, tees, straight and angled shutoff hacksaw, basin wrench, adjustable Compression nut Copper pipe
valves, and hose bibs. They usually have flat wrenches. Compression ring
sides that can be gripped with an adjustable
wrench. Materials: Brass compression fittings,
pipe joint compound. A compression fitting (shown here cutaway) has a compres-
When measuring copper tubing to be used sion ring and a compression nut, which forms a tight seal by
with compression fittings, add 1⁄2" for the forcing the ring against the inner portion of the fitting.
Joining Two Copper Pipes with a Compression Union Fitting

A B C
Compression nut
Compression ring
Union
Slide the compression nuts and rings over the ends of the Apply a layer of pipe joint compound or Teflon tape to the Hold the center of the union fitting with an adjustable
pipes. Place the threaded union between the pipes. threads of the union, then screw the compression nuts onto wrench. Use another wrench to tighten each compression nut
the threaded union. Hand-tighten the nuts. one complete turn. Turn on the water. If the fitting leaks,
gently tighten the nuts.

Installing Shutoff Valves & Supply Tubes
A B C
Faucet
tailpiece
Coupling Tailpiece
nut
Shuttoff
valve Flexible
copper
supply
Compression tube
ring
1
⁄2" Supply
tube
Compression
nut
Slide a compression nut and ring over the copper water pipe, Bend a flexible copper supply tube to reach between the Connect the bell-shaped end of the supply tube to the faucet
with the nut threads facing the end of the pipe. Fit the shut- faucet tailpiece and the shutoff valve (see page 74). Fit the tailpiece, using a coupling nut. Tighten the nut with a basin
off valve onto the pipe. Apply a layer of pipe joint compound bell-shaped end of the supply tube into the end of the tail- wrench (see page 568) or channel-type pliers.
to the valve’s threads. Screw the nut onto the shutoff valve piece, and mark the other end to length. Include a 1⁄2" portion
and tighten it with an adjustable wrench. that will fit inside the valve. Cut the tube (see page 77).
D E F
Socket
To connect the supply tube to the valve, slide a compression Insert the pipe into the valve until the end rests at the bottom Gently tighten the compression nut with adjustable
nut over the end of the pipe, with the threads facing the of the fitting socket. Apply a layer of joint compound or Teflon wrenches. Do not overtighten. Turn on the water and check
valve, then slide on the compression ring. tape to the valve threads and hand-tighten the nut onto the for leaks. If the fitting leaks, carefully tighten the nut.
valve.

Working with PEX Pipe

Developed in the 1960s, cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is a flexible
plastic tubing reinforced by a chemical reaction that strengthens the
material. PEX is quickly growing in acceptance as a supply pipe for res-
idential plumbing because it can withstand a wide temperature range
(from subfreezing to 180° F). It is inexpensive, and it’s quieter than
rigid supply pipe.
For standard residential installation, PEX is joined with very simple
fittings and tools. Unions are typically made by simply inserting the
ends of the pipe into a crimping ring, then clamping down on the ring
with a crimping tool. Because it’s so flexible, PEX can be bent to follow
corners and make other changes in direction. From the water main and
heater, it is connected into manifold fittings that redistribute the water
in much the same manner as a lawn irrigation system.
PEX pipe, tools, and fittings can be purchased from most wholesale
plumbing suppliers and at many home centers. Coils of PEX are sold in
several diameters from 1⁄4" to 1".
Though PEX is endorsed by all major plumbing codes, you should
check with your local plumbing inspector to verify that it is allowed in
⁄4"
1 your municipality. Follow these guidelines for installing PEX:
1
⁄2" • Do not install PEX in above-ground exterior applications because
3
⁄4" 1" it degrades quickly from UV exposure.
• Do not use plastic solvents or petroleum-based products with PEX
PEX is a relatively new water supply material that combines the flexibility of plastic tubing (they can dissolve the plastic).
with the durability of rigid supply pipe. It is sold in coils of common supply-pipe diameters. • Keep PEX at least 12" away from recessed light fixtures and other
potential sources of high heat.
• Do not attach PEX directly to your water heater. Make connections
at the heater with metallic tubing (either flexible water-heater
connector tubing or rigid copper) at least 18" long, then join it to
PEX with a transition fitting.
• Do not install PEX in areas where there is a possibility of mechani-
cal damage or puncture. Always fasten protective plates to wall
A A B C studs that house PEX.
B
• Always leave some slack in installed PEX lines to allow for contrac-
tion and in case you need to cut off a bad crimp.
• Use the same minimum branch and distribution supply pipe
dimensions for PEX that you’d use for copper or PVC/CPVC,
according to your local plumbing codes.
C
Tools: Full-circle crimping tool, flexible tubing cutter, utility

knife, go/no-go gauge.
Materials: Copper manifolds, PEX supply pipe, PEX crimp fit-
Specialty tools and materials for installing PEX are available wherever PEX is sold. The basic tings, transition fittings, shutoff valves, copper and plastic
set of tools includes a full-circle crimping tool (A), a flexible tubing cutter (B), and a go/no- hangers.
go gauge (C) to test connections after they have been crimped. PEX is connected to other
water supply materials with transition fittings, including CPVC-to-PEX (A), copper-to-PEX (B),
and iron-to-PEX (C).
82 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ PEX

Making PEX Connections
A B
Cut the pipe to length, making sure to leave enough extra material so the line will have a Inspect the cut end to make sure it is clean and smooth. If necessary, deburr the end of the
small amount of slack once the connections are made. A straight, clean cut is very impor- pipe with a sharp utility knife. Slip a crimp ring over the end.
tant. For best results, use a tubing cutter.
C D E
Insert the barbed end of the fitting into the pipe until it is Align the jaws of a full-circle crimping tool over the crimp Test the connection to make sure it is mechanically accept-
snug against the cut edges. Position the crimp ring so it is ring and squeeze the handles together to apply strong, even able, using a go/no-go gauge. If the ring does not fit into the
1
⁄8" to 1⁄4" from the end of the pipe, covering the barbed end pressure to the ring. gauge properly, cut the pipe near the connection and try
of the fitting. Pinch the fitting by hand to hold it in place. again.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ PEX 83

Plumbing a PEX Water-supply System
A B
Install copper manifolds (one for hot and one for cold) in an accessible location central to Attach manifolds to the framing. A manifold may be attached vertically or horizontally, but
the fixtures. The manifold should have one outlet for each supply line it will support (fixtures it must be anchored with correctly sized hangers screwed to the framing members.
that require hot and cold supply will need a separate outlet for each). Run supply lines from
the water heater and water main to the copper manifolds. Connect the supply pipes to the
manifolds with crimp fittings.
C D E
Starting at each fixture (and leaving at least 12" of extra PEX can be bent around corners, but do not allow the pipe Cut each branch supply line to length (leave some extra in
pipe exposed), run appropriately sized PEX through holes in to kink. Support the pipe with a plastic hanger near every case you need to recrimp a fitting). Install shutoff valves for
the framing to the manifold. Pipes may be bundled together floor or ceiling and midway up vertical runs. Also use hang- each supply line outlet on the manifolds (some manifolds
loosely with plastic ties. Protect the line with a nailing plate ers to guide pipe near the beginnings and ends of curves come with shutoff valves already attached). Connect the PEX
at each stud location. Be sure to leave some slack in the sup- and near fittings. supply lines to the shutoff valves. Label each pipe. Cap
ply lines. unused valves with a plug and a short piece of PEX.
84 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ PEX

Working with Plastic Pipe
Plastic pipes and fittings are popular because PE is often used for underground cold water can weaken plastic plumbing pipe, so do not
they are lightweight, inexpensive, and easy to lines, such as those found in sprinkling install or store it in areas that receive constant,
use. Local plumbing codes increasingly are systems. direct sunlight.
approving their use for home plumbing. CPVC is used for both cold and hot water Use PVC pipe for traps and drain pipes. Use
Plastic pipes are available in rigid and flexi- supply lines. Plastic pipes can be joined to CPVC or PEX (see page 82) pipe for water
ble forms. ABS and PVC are used in drain iron, copper, or PEX pipes with transition fit- supply lines. PVC pipe used for drains usually
systems. PVC resists chemical damage and tings, but different types of plastic should not has an inside diameter of 11⁄4" to 4". CPVC
heat better than ABS (which is why ABS is be joined directly. and PEX pipes for water supply usually have
no longer allowed by code), and is approved PB flexible plastic is no longer allowed by an inside diameter of 1⁄2" or 3⁄4". For traps and
for aboveground use by all plumbing codes. code and isn’t widely available. If problems drains, choose PVC pipe with DWV ratings
However, some codes still require cast-iron develop with existing PB or fittings, consult a from the National Sanitation Foundation
pipe for main drains running under concrete licensed plumber for advice. (NSF). For water supply pipes, choose CPVC
slabs. Prolonged exposure to sunlight eventually or PEX with PW (pressurized water) ratings.
Tips for Working with Plastic Pipe

Jumper wire
O-ring
Spacer
Grip ring
Metal Ground Plastic

pipe clamp pipe
Metal pipe Fitting
If your home’s electrical system is grounded through metal water pipes, keep the elec- Plastic compression fittings (or grip fittings) are used to join CPVC pipe. Some types have a
trical ground circuit intact by using ground clamps and jumper wires (available at rubber O-ring, instead of a compression ring, that makes the watertight seal. See page 83 for
hardware stores) to bypass any plastic transitions added to the plumbing system. Make joining PEX.
sure the clamps are firmly attached to bare metal on both sides of the plastic pipe.
Pipe size Identification NSF rating
Use PVC pipe for traps and drain pipes, and use CPVC or PEX pipe for water supply lines. PVC with DWV ratings from the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF). For water supply pipes,
pipe for drains usually has an inside diameter of 11⁄4" to 4". CPVC and PEX pipes for water sup- choose CPVC or PEX with PW (pressurized water) ratings.
ply usually have an inside diameter of 1⁄2" or 3⁄4". For sink traps and drains, choose PVC pipe
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Plastic Pipe 85

Cutting & Fitting Plastic Pipe
Rigid PVC or CPVC pipe can be cut with a tubing cutter or saw.
Flexible PE and PEX pipe can be cut with a plastic tubing cutter or Elbow cut-
knife. When cutting any type of plastic pipe, make sure all cuts are Waste-T cutaway to show
level and straight to ensure watertight joints. away to show depth of pipe
depth of pipe
There are a variety of fittings available for joining plastic pipes.
Plastic compression fittings are used to join rigid plastic pipes to copper
pipes. Barbed, rigid PVC fittings and stainless steel hose clamps connect
PE pipe. See pages 82 to 83 for fitting PEX. Rigid plastics are joined
using plastic fittings and primer and solvent glue specifically made for Fitting Fitting
the pipe material being joined. All-purpose or universal solvents may be socket socket
used on all types of rigid plastic pipe. Solvent glue hardens in about 30
seconds, so test-fit all the plastic pipe and fittings before gluing the Length of pipe
first joint. For best results, the pipe and fittings should be dulled with
an emery cloth and liquid primer before they are joined.
Liquid solvent glues and primers are toxic and flammable. Always
wear gloves and provide adequate ventilation when fitting plastics, and
store the products away from heat.
Tools: Tubing cutter (or saw), felt-tipped pen, utility knife.

Materials: Plastic pipe and fittings, emery cloth, petroleum
jelly, plastic-pipe primer, solvent glue, rag. Find the length of plastic pipe needed by measuring between the bottoms of the fitting sock-
ets (fittings shown here cutaway). Mark the length on the pipe with a felt-tipped pen.
Cutting Rigid Plastic Pipe

Cutting
wheel
Tubing cutter: Tighten the tool around the pipe so the Hacksaw: Clamp the plastic pipe in a portable gripping Miter box: Make straight cuts on all types of plastic pipe with
cutting wheel is on the marked line. Rotate the tool around bench or a vise, and keep the hacksaw blade straight while a power miter saw or hand miter box (see page 264). With a
the pipe, tightening the screw every two rotations, until the sawing. TIP: To draw a straight cutting line around the cir- hand miter box, use a hacksaw rather than a back saw.
pipe snaps. cumference of a pipe, wrap a sheet of paper around the pipe
and line up the paper edges. Then, trace along the edge.
86 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Plastic Pipe

Fitting Rigid Plastic Pipe with Solvent Glue
A B C
Fitting
sockets
Measure and cut the pipe to length. Remove rough burrs on Test-fit all pipes and fittings. The pipes should fit tightly Make alignment and depth marks across each pipe joint,
the cut ends, using a utility knife. against the bottom of the fitting sockets. using a felt-tipped pen. Disassemble the pipes.
D E F
Clean the ends of the pipes and the fitting sockets, using an Apply plastic-pipe primer to one end of a pipe. Apply plastic-pipe primer inside the fitting socket.
emery cloth.
G H I
Apply a thick coat of solvent glue to the end of the pipe, and Quickly position the pipe and fitting so the alignment marks Twist the pipe until the marks are aligned. Hold the pipe in
a thin coat to the inside surface of the fitting socket. Work are offset by about 2" and the end of the pipe fits flush place for about 20 seconds, then wipe away any excess glue
quickly. Solvent glue hardens in about 30 seconds. against the bottom of the socket. with a rag. Let the joint dry undisturbed for 30 minutes.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Plastic Pipe 87

Working with Galvanized Iron Pipe

Galvanized iron pipe often is found in older and thread them to your specifications. one stationary and one moving. Position the
homes, where it’s used for water supply and Old galvanized iron systems can be difficult wrenches so the jaws face opposite directions,
small drain lines. It can be identified by the to repair or replace. When fittings are rusted in and move the one wrench handle toward the
zinc coating that gives it a silver color and by place, what seems like a small job may quickly opening of its jaws.
the threaded fittings used to connect the pipes. become a much larger project. Cutting apart a Don’t confuse galvanized iron with black
Galvanized iron pipes and fittings corrode section of pipe often reveals adjacent pipes iron, which is available in similar sizes and
with age and eventually must be replaced. Low that also need to be replaced. If your project has similar fittings. Black iron is used only for
water pressure may be a sign that rust has built involves extensive changes, consult a plumber; gas lines.
up inside galvanized pipes. Blockages usually it may be easier to replace the old pipes.
occur in elbow fittings. Don’t try to clean When disassembling a run of pipe and fit-
galvanized pipes—replace them instead. tings, start at the end of the run and unscrew Tools: Reciprocating saw with metal-
Galvanized iron pipe and fittings are avail- each piece in turn. Reaching the middle of a cutting blade or hacksaw, wire brush,
able at hardware stores and home centers. run to replace a section of pipe can be a long, pipe wrenches, propane torch.
When purchasing, specify the interior diame- tedious job. However, a three-piece fitting, Materials: Nipples, end caps, union fit-
ter (I.D.) of the pipe and fittings. Prethreaded called a union, makes it possible to remove a ting, pipe joint compound, replacement
pipes, called nipples, are available in lengths from section of pipe or a fitting without taking fittings (if needed).
1" to 12". If a project requires longer pipes, apart the entire system.
have a hardware or plumbing supply store cut When detaching pipes, use two wrenches,
Tips for Working with Galvanized Iron Pipe
Hubbed union nut
1
⁄2" ⁄2"
1
Union fitting
Nipples Ring nut
Threaded union nut
Measure old pipe before replacing it. Add 1⁄2" at each end for the pipe threads that extend inside the fitting. Bring the over- Use a union fitting and two threaded pipe nipples to replace
all measurement to the store when buying parts. a section of old pipe. When assembled, the union and nipples
must equal the length of the pipe being replaced.
88 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Iron Pipe

Replacing a Section of Galvanized Iron Pipe
A B C
Cut through the section of pipe, using a reciprocating saw Hold the fitting stationary with one pipe wrench, and use Remove any corroded fittings using two pipe wrenches, one
with a metal-cutting blade or a hacksaw. another to unscrew the old pipe. The jaws of the wrenches to turn the fitting and the other to hold the pipe. Clean the
should face opposite directions. threads with a wire brush.
D E F
First nipple
Hubbed union nut
Ring nut
Heat stubborn fittings with a propane torch for easy Spread pipe joint compound evenly over the threads of all Screw the first nipple into a fitting and tighten it with a pipe
removal. Shield flammable materials with a double layer of pipes and nipples. Use two wrenches to tighten the new fit- wrench. Slide a ring nut onto the nipple, screw the hubbed
sheet metal, and apply the flame for 5 to 10 seconds. tings onto the pipes, leaving them 1⁄8 turn out of alignment. union nut onto the nipple, and tighten it with a pipe wrench.
G H I
Second nipple
Threaded
union nut
Ring nut
Threaded union nut
Screw a second nipple onto the other fitting and tighten it Screw threaded union nut onto second nipple; tighten. Align Complete the connection by screwing the ring nut onto the
with a pipe wrench. pipes so the lip of hubbed nut fits inside the threaded union threaded union nut. Tighten the ring nut.
nut.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Iron Pipe 89

Working with bands and screw clamps that hold the pipes
together. These couplings come in different Strap
styles, so check the local plumbing code to hangers
Cast-iron Pipe determine which types are approved in your

area.
Snap cutters are the traditional tool of
Cast-iron pipe is rarely installed these days, choice for cutting cast-iron pipe, but today’s
but years ago it was commonly used within variable-speed reciprocating saws do the job
DWV systems. It can be identified by its dark easily and safely. Use a long metal-cutting
color, rough surface, and large size—usually 3" blade and set the saw at low speed.
or more in diameter. Wear eye protection when cutting cast-iron
Cast-iron pipe is often joined with hubbed pipe, and if you’re working in a basement or
fittings (see step A, below), made by inserting other enclosed space, wear ear protection, too.
the straight end of one pipe into the flared, or Cast-iron pipe is heavy, and you must pro-
hubbed, end of another pipe. The joints are vide permanent support on both sides of a
sealed with packing material (called oakum) pipe before cutting it (see photos, right).
and lead.
Hubbed fittings sometimes develop leaks,
and pipes can rust through. You can replace a Tools: Chalk, adjustable wrench, cast
leaky fitting with a section of plastic pipe. You iron snap cutter, hacksaw, ratchet
can also connect a new drain pipe to a cast- wrench. Riser
clamp
iron stack using a plastic waste fitting. The Materials: Riser clamps or strap hang-
basic steps are the same for both projects. ers, wood blocks, 21⁄2" wallboard screws,
A special fitting called a banded coupling is banded couplings, plastic pipe. Install supports for cast-iron pipe before cutting. Support
used to connect new plastic pipe to existing horizontal pipe with strap hangers every 5 ft. and at every
cast iron. A banded coupling has a neoprene joint connection (top). Support vertical pipe at every floor
sleeve that seals the joint and stainless steel level and above every cut, using riser clamps (bottom).
Replacing a Section of Cast-iron Pipe

A B C
Hubbed
fitting
Use chalk to mark cutting lines on the cast-iron pipe. If you’re Support the lower section of pipe by installing a riser clamp Cut the pipe using a snap cutter or a reciprocating saw with a
replacing a leaky hubbed fitting, mark at least 6" above and flush against the bottom plate or floor. Install a riser clamp long metal-cutting blade. When using a snap cutter (shown),
below the fitting. 6" to 12" above the section being replaced. Attach wood wrap the chain around the pipe so the cutting wheels align
blocks to the studs with 21⁄2" wallboard screws, so that the with the chalk line. Tighten the chain and then snap the pipe
riser clamp rests securely on the tops of the blocks. according to the tool manufacturer’s directions.
90 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Cast-iron Pipe

D E
Band
Screw
clamp
Neoprene
sleeve
Make a second cut at the other chalk line, and remove the section of pipe. Cut a length of PVC Slip a band and neoprene sleeve of a banded coupling onto each end of the cast-iron pipe.
plastic pipe 1" shorter than the section of cast-iron pipe that has been cut away (see page 86). Make sure the cast-iron pipe is seated snugly against the rubber separator ring molded into
the interior of the sleeve (see step F).
F G H
Separator
ring
Fold back the end of each neoprene sleeve until the molded Roll the ends of the neoprene sleeves over the new plastic pipe. Slide the bands over the neoprene sleeves and tighten the
separator ring on the inside of the sleeve is visible. Position screw clamps with a ratchet wrench or screwdriver.
the new plastic pipe so it is aligned with the cast-iron pipes.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Cast-iron Pipe 91

Planning New Plumbing

A major plumbing project can be a compli- the standard code specifications are shown
cated affair that often requires demolition and on pages 94 to 98. As with any construction
carpentry work. In addition, your bathroom or project, always consult the local building codes
kitchen plumbing may be unusable for several before finalizing your plans.
days while you complete the work, so arrange To ensure that your project goes quickly,
backup facilities to use during this time. always buy plenty of pipe and fittings—at
The how-to projects shown in this book least 25% more than you think you’ll need.
demonstrate standard plumbing techniques Making extra trips to the store for last-minute
but should not be used as exact models for supplies is a nuisance and can add many hours
your own projects. Pipe and fitting sizes, fix- to your project. Always purchase from a rep-
ture layouts, and pipe routing will vary utable retailer who will allow you to return
according to individual circumstances. leftover fittings for credit.
Before you begin work, create a detailed When scheduling your project, be sure to
map of your plumbing system to guide your allow time for inspections. Find out whether
work and help you obtain the required per- the inspector will require a pressure test of the
mits. Determine the scope of your project and new plumbing; if a test is required, perform
develop a working plan, allowing for mini- your own test beforehand (see page 99).
mum code clearances and comfort. Many of
Mapping Your Plumbing System

Mapping your plumbing system is a good way A B
to familiarize yourself with your home’s
plumbing layout, and it can help you plan
your plumbing renovation project.
With a good map, you can envision the best
spots for new fixtures and plan new pipe
routes more efficiently. Maps also help in
emergencies, when you need to locate burst or
leaking pipes quickly.
Draw a plumbing map for each floor of
your home, using the original floor plans of
your house or your own drawings (see pages
18 to 19). Convert the general outlines for
each floor to tracing paper, so you can overlay
the drawings and still read the underlying
information.
Walls on your map can be drawn larger than
scale to fit all the plumbing symbols you need
to map, but keep overall room dimensions and
plumbing fixtures to scale. Fixture templates
and tracing paper are available at drafting Map your plumbing system using a separate diagram for Create a tracing-paper diagram for each floor of the house.
supply stores. each floor, starting with the basement diagram. Mark the Complete the mapping for one floor, then lay the diagram for
Be sure to include diagrams for basements location of the water meter, found on the main supply line. If the next floor over the lower floor. Transfer the locations of
and attic spaces in your plumbing map. your house doesn’t have a basement, start your mapping at pipes that carry through from one floor to the next.
the meter or water heater.
92 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Planning

C D
Standard Plumbing Symbols
Cold water supply Union
Hot water supply

Coupling
Waste line
Reducer
Vent line
Waste T Vent T Y- fitting
Elbow, 90° Elbow, 45° Elbow,

sweep 90°
Elbow, Elbow, facing

Locate all water supply runs by following the cold water pipe Determine the path of vertical supply risers by measuring facing up down
leading from the water meter. Follow all branch supply lines from the nearest outside wall to the riser. Do the same at the
until they terminate at an outdoor faucet, or a fixture, or until respective fixture on the next floor up. If the measurements
they connect to a vertical riser leading to the next floor. are not the same, there is a hidden offset in the pipe route.
T, outlet T, outlet
facing up facing down
E F
Cap Plug
Floor drain Floor cleanout
Ball valve Gate valve Check valve
WH
Hose bib Water heater Shower
Toilet Sink Bathtub

Locate and map all valves throughout the supply lines. This Map all waste and vent pipes, starting with the main waste-
will allow you to shut off the water to pipes you’re working vent stack, found in the basement. Note horizontal drain
on while maintaining service to the rest of the house. Use the pipes on all floors, and the points where vertical drains T I P : Use standard plumbing symbols on your map to iden-
symbols shown in the Standard Plumbing Symbols chart extend between floors. Note auxiliary waste-vent stacks (typ- tify the components of your plumbing system. These symbols
(right) to identify different valve types (see page 70). ically 2" vertical pipes often found near basement utility sinks will help you and the building inspector follow connections
or below a kitchen). and transitions more easily.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Planning 93

Plumbing Codes & Permits
The plumbing code is the set of regulations that building officials and
inspectors use to evaluate your project plans and the quality of your
work. Codes vary from region to region, but most are based on the House
National Uniform Plumbing Code, a highly technical, difficult-to-read
manual. More user-friendly code handbooks are available at bookstores
and libraries. These handbooks are based on the National Uniform
Plumbing Code, but they are easier to read and include diagrams
and photos.
Water service 65 ft.

Sometimes these handbooks discuss three different plumbing zones
in an effort to accommodate state variations in regulations. Remember
Driveway
that local plumbing code always supersedes national code. Your local
Sewer 65 ft.
building inspector can be a valuable source of information and may
provide you with a convenient summary sheet of the regulations that
apply to your project.
As part of its effort to ensure public safety, your community
building department requires a permit for most plumbing projects.
When you apply for a permit, the building official will want to review
three drawings of your plumbing project: a site plan, a water supply
diagram, and a drain-waste-vent diagram. If the official is satisfied Street
that your project meets code requirements, you will be issued a plumb-
ing permit, which is your legal permission to begin work. As your The site plan shows the location of the water main and sewer main with respect to your yard
project nears completion, the inspector will visit your home to check and home. The distances from your foundation to the water main and from the foundation
your work. to the main sewer should be indicated on the site map.
6 ft. of 3⁄4" pipe To street

M
WH Water Meter 3" vent stack
heater
65 ft. of 1" pipe
2" vent pipe
8 ft. of Sink
⁄4" pipe
3
2" drain
8 ft. of 1⁄2" pipe 11⁄2" drain
3" toilet
drain
3" waste stack
5 ft. of Toilet 3" cleanout

1
⁄2" pipe stub-outs Sink
stub-outs
3" drain To sewer
The water supply diagram shows the length of the hot and cold water pipes and the rela- A DWV diagram shows the routing of drain and vent pipes in your system. Indicate the
tions of the fixtures to one another. The inspector will use this diagram to determine the lengths of drain pipes and the distances between fixtures. The inspector will use this diagram
proper size for the new water supply pipes in your system. to determine if you have properly sized the drain traps, drain pipes, and vent pipes.
94 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Codes & Permits

Sizing for Water Distribution Pipes
Fixture Unit rating Size of Size of

Maximum length (ft.)—total fixture units
service distribution
Toilet 3
pipe from pipe from
Vanity sink 1 street water meter 40 ft. 60 ft. 80 ft. 100 ft. 150 ft. 200 ft.
Shower 2
⁄4"
3 1
⁄2" 9 8 7 6 5 4
Bathtub 2
⁄4"
3 3
⁄4" 27 23 19 17 14 11
Dishwasher 2
Kitchen sink 2 ⁄4"
3
1" 44 40 36 33 28 23
Clothes washer 2
1" 1" 60 47 41 36 30 25
Utility sink 2
Sillcock 3 1" 11⁄4" 102 87 76 67 52 44
Water distribution pipes are the main pipes extending from the water meter throughout the water meter and to the most distant fixture in the house. Then, use the second table
the house, supplying water to the branch pipes leading to individual fixtures. To determine (above, right) to calculate the minimum size for the water distribution pipes. Note that the
the size of the distribution pipes, you must first calculate the total demand in “fixture units” fixture unit capacity depends partly on the size of the street-side pipe that delivers water to
(above left) and the overall length of the water supply lines, from the street hookup through your meter.
Sizing for Branch Pipes & Supply Tubes Valve Requirements

Min. branch Min. supply
Fixture pipe size tube size
Toilet 1
⁄2" 3
⁄8" Water meter
Vanity sink 1
⁄2" 3
⁄8"
Shower 1
⁄2" 1
⁄2"
Bathtub 1
⁄2" 1
⁄2"
Dishwasher 1
⁄2" 1
⁄2"
Kitchen sink 1
⁄2" 1
⁄2"
Clothes washer 1
⁄2" 1
⁄2"
Utility sink 1
⁄2" 1
⁄2" Main shutoff
Full-bore ball valve
Sillcock 3
⁄4" N.A.
Water heater 3
⁄4" N.A.
Branch pipes are the water supply lines that run from the distribution pipes toward the indi- Full-bore gate valves or ball valves are required in the following locations: on both the street
vidual fixtures. Supply tubes are the vinyl, chromed copper, or braided metal tubes that carry side and house side of the water meter; on the inlet pipes for water heaters and heating sys-
water from the branch pipes to the fixtures. Use the chart above as a guide when sizing tem boilers. Individual fixtures should have accessible shutoff valves, but these need not be
branch pipes and supply tubes. full-bore valves. All sillcocks must have individual control valves located inside the house.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Plumbing/ Codes & Permits 95

Plumbing Codes & Permits (cont.)
Preventing Water Hammer Antisiphon Devices
Water hammer arresters may be required by code. Water hammer is a problem that may Vacuum breakers must be installed on all indoor and outdoor hose bibs and any outdoor
occur when the fast-acting valves on washing machines or other appliances trap air and branch pipes that run underground. By allowing air to enter the pipes, vacuum breakers pre-
cause pipes to vibrate against framing members. The arrester works as a shock absorber, with vent contaminated water from being siphoned into the water supply pipes in the event of a
a watertight diaphragm inside. It is mounted to a T-fitting installed near the appliance. sudden drop in water pressure in the water main.
Maximum Hole and Notch Sizes for Framing Members

Framing member Maximum hole size Maximum notch size
2 × 4 load-bearing stud 17⁄16" diameter 7

⁄8" deep
2 × 4 non-load-bearing stud 21⁄2" diameter 17⁄16" deep
2 × 6 load-bearing stud 21⁄4" diameter 13⁄8" deep
2 × 6 non-load-bearing stud 35⁄16" diameter 23⁄16" deep
2 × 6 joists 11⁄2" diameter 7
⁄8" deep
2 × 8 joists 23⁄8" diameter 11⁄4" deep
A framing member chart shows the maximum sizes for holes and notches that can be cut middle third of the joist. When two pipes are run through a stud, the pipes should be stacked
into studs and joists when running pipes. Where possible, use notches rather than bored holes one over the other, never side by side.
because pipe installation is usually easier. When boring holes, there must be at least 5⁄8" of
NOTE: This chart is shown for general reference, and its specifications may not conform to all
wood between the edge of a stud and the hole, and at least 2" between the edge of a joist
building codes; check with the local building department regarding regulations in your area.
and the hole. Joists can be notched only in the end third of the overall span; never in the

Drain Cleanouts Pipe Support Intervals
Vertical-run Horizontal-run
Type support support
of pipe interval interval
Copper 10 ft. 6 ft.
PEX 5 ft. 3 ft.
CPVC 10 ft. 3 ft.
PVC 10 ft. 4 ft.
Steel 12 ft. 10 ft.
Iron 15 ft. 5 ft.
Drain cleanouts make your DWV system easier to service. In most areas, the plumbing code Minimum intervals for supporting pipes are determined by the type of pipe and its
requires that you place cleanouts at the end of every horizontal drain run. Where horizontal orientation in the system. Remember that the measurements shown above are minimum
runs are not accessible, removable drain traps will suffice as cleanouts. requirements; local code may require supports at closer intervals.
Fixture Units & Minimum Trap Size Sizes for Horizontal & Vertical Drain Pipes
Fixture Fixture units Min. trap size Maximum Maximum
fixture units fixture units
Shower 2 2" Pipe size for horizontal for vertical
branch drain drain stacks
Vanity sink 1 11⁄4"
Bathtub 2 11⁄2" 11⁄4" 1 2
Dishwasher 2 11⁄2"
11⁄2" 3 4
Kitchen sink 2 11⁄2"
Kitchen sink* 3 11⁄2" 2" 6 10
Clothes washer 2 11⁄2"

21⁄2" 12 20
Utility sink 2 1 ⁄2"
1
Floor drain 1 2" 3" 20 30
*Kitchen sink with attached food disposer 4" 160 240
Minimum trap size for fixtures is determined by the drain fixture unit rating, a unit of mea- Drain pipe sizes are determined by the load on the pipes, as measured by the total fixture
sure assigned by the plumbing code. NOTE: Kitchen sinks rate 3 units if they include an units. Horizontal drain pipes less than 3" in diameter should slope 1⁄4" per foot toward the
attached food disposer, 2 units otherwise. main drain. Pipes 3" or more in diameter should slope 1⁄8" per foot. NOTE: Horizontal or verti-
cal drain pipes for a toilet must be 3" or larger.

Plumbing Codes & Permits (cont.)
Vent Pipe Sizes, Critical Distances Vent Pipe Orientation to Drain Pipe
Minimum Maximum Vent pipe

Size of vent pipe critical distance
fixture drain size distance
11⁄4" 11⁄4" 21⁄2 ft.
11⁄2" 11⁄4" 31⁄2 ft.

Drain pipe
2" 11⁄2" 5 ft.
45°
3" 2" 6 ft.
4" 3" 10 ft.
Vent pipes are usually one pipe size smaller than the drain pipes they serve. Code requires Vent pipes must extend in an upward direction from drains, no less than 45° from horizon-
that the distance between the drain trap and the vent pipe fall within a maximum “critical tal. This ensures that waste water cannot flow into the vent pipe and block it. At the opposite
distance,” a measurement that is determined by the size of the fixture drain. Use this chart end, a new vent pipe should connect to an existing vent pipe or main waste-vent stack at a
to determine both the minimum size for the vent pipe and the maximum critical distance. point at least 6" above the highest fixture draining into the system.
Wet Venting Auxiliary Venting
Vent pipe
Critical
distance Min. 6"
Separate 2" vent

required if toilet-
to-stack distance
is more than 6 ft.
2" sink drain
serves as
wet vent for
bathtub Critical distance
Wet vents are pipes that serve as a vent for one fixture and a drain for another. The sizing Fixtures must have auxiliary vents if the distance to the main waste-vent stack exceeds the
of a wet vent is based on the total fixture units it supports (see page 97): a 3" wet vent can critical distance. A toilet, for example, should have a separate vent pipe if it is located more
serve up to 12 fixture units; a 2" wet vent is rated for 4 fixture units; a 11⁄2" wet vent, for only than 6 ft. from the main waste-vent stack. This secondary vent pipe should connect to the
1 fixture unit. NOTE: The distance between the wet-vented fixture and the wet vent itself must stack or an existing vent pipe at a point at least 6" above the highest fixture on the system.
be no more than the maximum critical distance.

Testing New Plumbing Pipes
When the building inspector comes to review
your new plumbing, he or she may require that
you perform a pressure test on the DWV and
water supply lines. The inspection and test
should be performed after the system is com-
pleted, but before the new pipes are covered
with wallboard. To ensure that the inspection
goes smoothly, perform your own preliminary
test, so you can locate and repair any problems
before the inspection.
The DWV system is tested by blocking off
the new drain and vent pipes, then pressuriz-
ing the system with air to see if it leaks. At the
fixture stub-outs, the DWV pipes can be
capped off or plugged with test balloons
designed for this purpose. The air pump, pres-
sure gauge, and test balloons required to test
the DWV system can be obtained at tool
rental centers.
Testing the water supply lines is a simple A pressure gauge and air pump are used to test DWV lines. The system is blocked off at each fixture and at points near where
matter of turning on the water and examining the new drain and vent pipes connect to the main stack. A weenie—a special test balloon with an air gauge and inflation
the joints for leaks. If you find a leak, drain the valve—is inserted at a cleanout valve. An air pump is attached to the weenie, and the pipe is pressurized to 5 pounds per
pipes, disassemble and resolder the faulty joints. square inch (psi). To pass inspection, the system must hold this pressure for 15 minutes.
Testing New DWV Pipes

A B C
Insert test balloons into test T-fittings at the top and bottom Cap off the remaining fixture drains by solvent-gluing test After the DWV system has been inspected and approved by a
of new DWV lines, blocking the pipes entirely. NOTE: Ordinary caps onto the stub-outs. If the DWV system loses air when building official, remove the test balloons and close the test
T-fittings installed near the bottom of drain lines and near pressurized, check joints for leaks by rubbing soapy water T-fittings by solvent-gluing caps onto the open lines. Remove
the top of vent lines are generally used for test fittings. Use over the fittings and looking for active bubbles. Cut out prob- test caps by knocking them loose with a hammer.
large balloons for toilet drains, and inflate them with an air lem joints from the existing fitting and solvent-glue a new
pump. fitting in place, using couplings and short lengths of pipe.

Basic Techniques: Wiring
Wiring Service head
Many home improvement projects require Service wires

some kind of electrical work. This work can
always be hired out to a professional, but with
a basic understanding of your home electrical
system, you can easily complete many of the
jobs yourself.
This section discusses the basics of an elec-
Wall switch
trical system (pages 100 to 104), the tools and
materials used in home wiring projects (pages GFCI receptacles
Receptacles
105 to 109), and how to plan your wiring pro-
ject (pages 110 to 113). Also included are
installation tips for household electrical
devices and 15 circuit maps (pages 114 to 121)
that show common wiring configurations.
Electric
meter
Wiring Basics Dedicated

240-volt
Before starting a project that requires any elec- circuit
trical work, make sure you have a basic
understanding of your home’s electrical system.
The service head (photo, right), or weather
head, anchors the power supplied by overhead
service wires to your house. Standard 240-volt
service is delivered by three wires: two wires of
120-volt current and a grounded neutral wire. Service panel
The electric meter measures every watt of
power consumed by your electrical system. It’s Grounding
usually attached to the side of the house and is wire
connected to the service head or buried power Dedicated
lines. 120/240-volt Grounding
The main service panel, also called the circuit rods
breaker box or fuse box, distributes power to
individual circuits. Each circuit breaker or fuse
Grounding
is designed to shut down the circuit in the wire
event of an overload or a short circuit.
NOTE: The wires to the service head, elec-
tric meter, and service panel are always live every wire connection and splice be contained fixtures, appliances, and receptacles. Light fix-
unless the utility company turns them off. within a plastic or metal electrical box. tures are wired directly into circuits.
Never attempt to inspect or repair any of these Receptacles, or outlets, provide plug-in access The grounding wire connects the entire sys-
devices. If you suspect a problem with them, to power. 125-volt, 15-amp three-prong tem to the earth through a metal water pipe
contact the utility company. receptacles are the most typical in wiring sys- or a pair of grounding rods. In the case of an
Electrical boxes enclose wire connections. tems installed after 1965. overload or short circuit, it channels excess
The National Electrical Code requires that Switches control the current leading to light current harmlessly into the earth.
100 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring

Understanding Circuits
If you look up the word circuit in the dictio- typically are white or light gray. or appliances are connected to each circuit, and
nary, you’ll find the definition: “a regular tour For safety, most circuits also include a bare a loose connection at any device can cause
around an assigned territory.” As this indicates, copper or green insulated grounding wire. The electricity to flow outside the circuit wires. The
household circuits carry electricity along a grounding wire helps reduce the chance of resulting reduction in resistance, called a short
regular route from the main service panel, electrical shock and carries any excess current circuit, triggers the circuit breaker or fuse, and
through the house, and back to the service in the case of a short circuit or overload. the circuit shuts down.
panel. For the circuit to function properly, this Circuits are rated according to the amount of After passing through the electrical devices,
loop must remain uninterrupted. power they can carry without overheating. If the current returns to the service panel along a neu-
Current travels outward to electrical devices devices on a circuit try to draw more power than tral circuit wire. There it merges with a main
on “hot” wires and returns along “neutral” that amount, the fuse or circuit breaker is trig- circuit wire and leaves the house on a neutral
wires. The two kinds of wires are color coded: gered and automatically shuts down the circuit. service line that returns it to the transformer
hot wires are black or red, and neutral wires Usually, several switches, receptacles, fixtures, on the utility pole.
Service panel
Light
switch Common Common
terminal terminal
Main circuit Main circuit

neutral wire hot wire
Light switch
Circuit breakers Circuit wires
White
\ neutral wire
Grounding wire
Red hot Light

wire fixture
Grounding
screw
Grounding
screw Receptacle
Grounding
wire
Receptacle
Grounding wire
to grounding rods
Household circuits carry electrical current through the house in a continuous loop. Power enters the system on hot wires (shown red) and returns along neutral wires (shown white). The
system also includes grounding wires for safety (shown green).
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring 101

Grounding & Polarization
Electricity always seeks to return to its source and complete a continu- Service panel Black hot wire
ous circuit. In a household wiring system, the return path is provided
by neutral wires (usually white) that return the current to the main White
neutral wire
service panel.
When working with wiring, remember that electric current always
seeks the path of least resistance. When you touch a device, tool, or
appliance that has a short circuit, the current may attempt to return to Grounding
wire
its source by passing through your body.
Grounding wires are designed to minimize this danger by providing
a safe, easy path for the current to follow back to its source. If you
touch a short-circuited device that has a properly installed grounding
wire, your chance of receiving a severe shock is greatly reduced.
Most electrical systems installed since 1920 also have another safety
measure—receptacles that accept polarized plugs. While it’s not a true
grounding method, polarization is designed to keep the current flowing Grounding 6’
along the proper wires within the circuit. wire to Minimum
grounding 8’
In the 1940s, armored cable (also called BX or Greenfield cable) was rods
installed in many homes. Armored cable has a metal sheath that, when
connected to a metal junction box, provides a true grounding path back
to the service panel.
Most wiring systems installed since 1965 contain NM (nonmetallic) Normal current flow: Current enters the electrical box along a black hot wire, then returns
cable that has a bare or green insulated copper wire that serves as a to the service panel along a white neutral wire. Any excess current passes into the earth via
continuous grounding path for excess current. These circuits are usually a grounding wire attached to grounding rods or a metal water pipe.
equipped with three-slot receptacles, which have direct connections to
the circuit grounding wire. This protects appliances, tools, and people
from short circuits.
If a two-slot receptacle is connected to a grounded electrical box, you
can plug three-prong plugs into it by using a receptacle adapter. To
connect the adapter to the grounded metal electrical box, attach the Grounding wire
short grounding wire or wire loop on the adapter to the receptacle’s
coverplate mounting screw. Grounding screw
Another safety precaution is the use of double-insulated tools. These
devices have nonconductive plastic bodies that prevent shocks caused
by short circuits. Because of these features, double-insulated tools can
be used safely with two-slot receptacles.
Loose hot wire
Grounding 6’
wire to Minimum
grounding 8’
rods
Nonmetallic (NM) cable contains a bare Armored (BX or Greenfield) cable has a Short circuit: Current is detoured by a loose wire in contact with the metal box. The ground-
copper wire that provides grounding. metal sheath that serves as a ground. ing wire picks it up and channels it safely back to the main service panel. There, it returns to
its source along a neutral service cable or enters the earth via the grounding system.
102 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Grounding

Service Panels
Circuit breaker panel: Circuit breaker panels Main
that provide 100 amps of power or more are circuit
Protective breaker
common in wiring systems installed since the
cover
1960s. They’re usually housed in a gray metal
cabinet that holds two rows of circuit breakers.
The size of the service can be identified by the
amperage rating stamped on the main circuit
breaker, which is located at the top of the ser-
vice panel.
A 100-amp service panel is now the stan-
dard minimum for new home construction
and is considered adequate for medium-sized
homes with up to three major electric appli-
ances. Larger homes with more major appli-
ances require a service panel that provides 150
amps or more. Panel
If the main circuit breaker panel does not index
have enough open breaker slots for the new
Circuit breaker
circuits you are planning, have an electrician
install a circuit breaker subpanel. The subpanel
serves as a second distribution center for con-
necting circuits. It receives power from a
double-pole “feeder” circuit breaker installed A circuit breaker panel of 100 amps or more holds two rows of individual circuit breakers. The size of the service is indicated
on the main circuit breaker.
in the main circuit breaker panel.
To shut off power to an individual circuit,
Main fuse
flip the lever on the appropriate circuit breaker block
to the OFF position. To shut off power to the
entire house, flip the lever on the main circuit
breaker to the OFF position. Plug
fuse
60-amp fuse panel: Sixty-amp fuse panels are

common in wiring systems installed between
1950 and 1965. They’re usually housed in a
gray metal cabinet that holds four plug fuses
and one or two pull-out fuse blocks for car-
tridge fuses.
A 60-amp fuse panel is adequate for small Panel
homes (up to 1,100 sq. ft.) that have no more index
than one 240-volt appliance. Many homeown-
ers upgrade 60-amp service to 100 amps or
Protective
more to accommodate additional circuits. cover
To shut off power to an individual circuit,
Appliance
carefully unscrew the appropriate fuse, touch- fuse block
ing only its insulated rim. To shut off power to
the entire house, grasp the handle of the main
fuse block and pull sharply to remove it; shut
off power to major appliances by removing the A 60-amp fuse panel holds four plug fuses plus one or two pull-out fuse blocks. This panel is adequate for a small home that
appliance fuse block the same way. has no more than one 240-volt appliance.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Ser vice Panels 103

Electrical Safety
A B When working with electricity, safety is
always a primary concern. An electric current
follows its own rules, and the best way to
ensure safety is to respect those rules and take
a few commonsense precautions.
Before starting any electrical work, always
turn off power to the area in which you’re
working. In the main service panel, shut off
the breaker or remove the fuse that controls
the circuit involved (photo A). A circuit map
(see page 110) will help you locate the correct
fuses or breakers. Leave a note on the service
panel to prevent others from turning on the
power while you’re working (photo B).
After shutting off the circuit, use a neon cir-
cuit tester to confirm the power is off before
working with a device. To test receptacles,
place one probe of the tester in each slot
(photo C). If the tester light glows, the recep-
tacle is receiving current. Return to the panel
and shut off the correct circuit. Always check
Turn off the power at the service panel before you start work. Post a sign to keep others from turning the power on. Turn both outlets of a duplex receptacle.
Switch the appropriate breaker to the OFF position. power back on only when you are done working. Before touching any wires, test the recepta-
cle again. Remove the coverplate and
C D receptacle mounting screws, and carefully pull
the receptacle from the box. Test both a brass
and silver screw terminal (photo D). If the
tester glows, return to the service panel. If
wires are connected to both sets of screw ter-
minals, test both sets.
Test light fixtures for power by touching one
tester probe to the grounding screw, bare cop-
per grounding wire, or a grounded metal box,
and touching the other probe to the hot and
neutral wires, in turn. Test switches by touch-
ing one probe to a ground and the other to
each screw terminal on the switch.
Here are a few more basic safety rules:
• Use the correct fuses or breakers in the ser-
vice panel. Never install a fuse or breaker
with a higher amperage than the circuit.
• Use tools with insulated handles.
• Don’t touch metal pipes, faucets, or fixtures
while working with electricity.
• Don’t drill into walls or ceilings without
shutting off electrical power to the area.
After shutting off the power at the service panel, test recep- Test the receptacle again. Touch one probe of the tester to a • Use only UL-approved electrical parts or
tacles twice with a neon circuit tester. brass screw terminal and the other to a silver terminal. devices (they have been tested for safety).
104 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Safety

Tools for Electrical Repair
Unlike some other kinds of repair work, the Cable rippers remove the outer sheath from wall cavities and conduit.
tools required for home electrical repairs are nonmetallic (NM) cable. Multi-testers measure voltages and test con-
simple, inexpensive, and widely available. Continuity testers check switches, lighting tinuity in switches, fixtures, and other devices.
The set shown below includes everything fixtures, and other devices for faults. A conti- As with purchasing any tool, it’s important
you’ll need for the repair projects that follow. nuity tester has a battery that generates current to invest in high-quality electrical tools and to
Tools for electrical repair include: and a wire loop that creates a miniature elec- care for them well. Here are some tips for
Combination tools cut cables and wires, trical circuit. maintaining electrical repair tools:
measure wire gauges, and strip insulation from Fuse pullers remove cartridge-type fuses Keep all electrical repair tools clean and
wires. Their insulated handles ensure safety from fuse blocks. dry, and store them securely.
when working with electrical wires. Cordless screwdrivers quickly drive screws Periodically resharpen cutting tools, such as
Needlenose pliers bend and shape wires, and fasteners when the electrical circuits needlenose pliers and combination tools.
especially for screw terminal connections. are switched off. Regularly check and replace the batteries in
Some have cutting jaws for clipping wires. Neon circuit testers check circuit wires for electrical testing devices, such as circuit
Insulated screwdrivers have rubber-coated power. testers, continuity testers, and multi-testers.
handles to reduce the risk of shock. Fish tape pulls wire and cables in finished
E
A
D
B
C F
J I
A basic set of electrical tools includes: combination tool (A), needlenose pliers (B), insulated screwdrivers (C), cable ripper A multi-tester is a versatile, battery-operated tool
(D), continuity tester (E), fuse puller (F), cordless screwdriver (G), neon circuit tester (H), electrical tape (I), fish tape (J). that measures voltages and continuity in switches, light
fixtures, and other electrical devices. It has adjustable
controls to measure current ranging from 1 to 1000 volts.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Tools & Materials 105

Tools & Materials: Boxes
Use the chart below to select the proper type of box for your wiring proj-
ect. For most indoor wiring done with NM cable, use plastic electrical
boxes. Plastic boxes are inexpensive, lightweight, and easy to install.
Metal boxes also can be used for indoor NM cable installations and
are still favored by some electricians, especially for supporting heavy
ceiling light fixtures.
If you have a choice of box depths, always choose the deepest size
available. Wire connections are easier to make if boxes are roomy.
D
Forcing wires into an undersized box can damage wires and disturb
their connections, creating a potential fire hazard. Check with your
local inspector if you have questions regarding proper box size.
A
Box type Typical uses B

• Protected indoor wiring, used with NM cable
Plastic
• Not suited for heavy light fixtures and fans
• Exposed indoor wiring, used with metal conduit C
Metal
• Protected indoor wiring, used with NM cable
Cast • Outdoor wiring, used with metal conduit
aluminum A square plastic box, 4 × 4" (3" deep), provides extra space for wire connections. It has pre-
PVC • Outdoor wiring, used with PVC conduit attached nails for easy mounting. A variety of adapter plates are available for 4 × 4" boxes,
including single-gang (A), double-gang (B), light fixture (C), and junction box coverplate (D).
plastic • Exposed indoor wiring, used with PVC conduit
Adapter plates come in several thicknesses to match different wall surfaces.
Metal boxes should be used for exposed indoor wiring,

31⁄2"-deep plastic boxes such as conduit installations in an unfinished
with preattached mount- basement. Metal boxes are available in the
ing nails are used for any same variety of sizes and shapes as
indoor wiring project that plastic boxes and can also be used for
will be protected by fin- wiring that will be covered by
ished walls, such as a room finished walls. Metal boxes are good
addition or a rewired A electrical conductors, so they must
kitchen. Common styles be pigtailed to the circuit ground-
include single-gang (A), ing wires to reduce the chance of
double-gang (B), and triple- shock caused by a short circuit.
gang (C). Double-gang and
triple-gang boxes require
internal cable clamps.
B Plastic retrofit
boxes are used when
a new switch or
receptacle must fit
inside a finished
wall. Use internal
cable clamps with
C these boxes.
106 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Tools & Materials

Grounding
screw
Pigtail
Wire
connector
A B C
Plastic boxes larger than 2 × 4", and all retrofit boxes, must Cables entering a metal box must be clamped. A variety of Metal boxes must be grounded to the circuit grounding sys-
have internal cable clamps. After installing cables in the box, clamps are available, including plastic clamps (A, C) and tem. Connect the circuit grounding wires to the box with a
tighten the cable clamps over the cables so they are gripped threaded metal clamps (B). green insulated pigtail wire and wire connector (as shown) or
firmly, but not so tightly that the cable sheathing is crushed. with a grounding clip (see page 126).
Plastic light fixture

Plastic retrofit light boxes with brace bars
fixture boxes let let you position a fix-
you install a new ture between framing
fixture in an existing members.
wall or ceiling.
Metal light fixture boxes

with heavy-duty brace bars
Cast aluminum boxes are B are recommended when
required for outdoor electri- installing heavy light
cal fixtures connected fixtures or hanging a
with metal conduit. A ceiling fan.
Cast aluminum boxes
have sealed seams
and threaded
openings to
keep mois-
ture out. A
variety of PVC plastic boxes are used with
weatherproof PVC conduit in outdoor wiring
coverplates are avail- and exposed indoor wiring. Many
able, including duplex local codes now allow the use of
receptacle plates (A), GFCI PVC plastic boxes. PVC coverplates
receptacle plates (B), and are available to fit switches, stan-
switch plates (not shown). dard duplex receptacles, and GFCI
receptacles.

Tools & Materials: Wire & Cables
Many types of wire and cable are available at home centers, but only a For example, a cable labeled “12/2 W G” contains two insulated
few are used in most home wiring projects. Modern wire is solid cop- 12-gauge wires, plus a grounding wire.
per, and individual wires are insulated with colored rubber or plastic to Use NM cable for new wiring installed inside walls. NM cable is easy
identify the wires as hot (black or red), neutral (white or gray), or to install when walls and ceilings are unfinished. Running cable in fin-
grounding (green or bare). ished walls requires extra planning, and often is easier with a helper (see
In the past, some wire was made from aluminum or aluminum cov- pages 127 to 128).
ered with a thin layer of copper (see page 109). Aluminum wiring The growing need to send and receive electronic information has
requires special tools available only to licensed electricians. created a demand for high-performance, low-voltage cabling that can
Choose wire large enough for the circuit “ampacity,” a measurement carry larger amounts of information rapidly. Coaxial cable carries
of how much current a wire can carry safely. Check your local electrical audio/video signals throughout your home. Category 5 cable is similar
code to learn which type of wire to use. to telephone cable but can transmit digital information six times faster
Cables are identified by the wire gauge and the number of insulated than standard phone wire, providing high-speed connections between
circuit wires they contain. In addition, all cables have a grounding wire. phones, computers, and other equipment.
Coaxial cable is used to transmit video signals. Coaxial cable is available

in lengths up to 25 ft. You can buy coaxial cable with preattached
fittings called F-connectors, or buy bulk cable in
any length and attach your own
F-connectors.
NM (nonmetallic) sheathed cable

should be used for most indoor wiring projects
in dry locations, such as a room addition or kitchen. NM
cable is available in a wide range of wire sizes, and in either
“2-wire with ground” or “3-wire with ground” types.
NM cable is sold in boxed rolls that contain
from 25 to 250 ft. of cable.
THHN/THWN wire is a versatile product that can be used in all conduit
applications. Each conducting wire, purchased individually, is covered with
a color-coded thermoplastic insulating jacket similar to the insulation on the
wires inside NM cable. Make sure the wire you buy has the thhn/thwn
rating. Other wire types have a similar appearance but are
less resistant to heat and moisture
than THHN/THWN wire.
Large-appliance cable
is used for kitchen ranges and
other 40-amp or 50-amp appliances that
require 8-gauge or 6-gauge wire. Large-appliance cable
is similar to NM cable, but each individual conducting wire is
made from fine stranded copper wires so the cable is easier to
bend. Large-appliance cable is available in both
2-wire and 3-wire types.
Telephone cable is used to connect telephone jacks (see page 142). Four-wire cable
(shown below) is commonly used, but eight-wire cable, an unshielded twisted pair
(UTP) cable, is becoming the standard due to its ability to carry greater
UF (underground feeder) amounts of telecommunication information. Category 5
cable is used for wiring in damp or cable is the most common UTP cable in use.
wet locations, such as in an outdoor circuit.
It has a white or gray solid-core vinyl sheathing
that protects the conducting wires and ground wire
inside. Most codes allow UF cable to be buried directly in the
ground. It also can be used indoors wherever NM cable is allowed.
108 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Tools & Materials

Aluminum Wire Wire Size Chart
Wire gauge Wire capacity & use
Inexpensive aluminum wire was used in place of copper in many
wiring systems installed during the late 1960s and early 1970s, when #6 60 amps, 240 volts; central air
copper prices were high. conditioner, electric furnace.
Aluminum wire is identi- #8 40 amps, 240 volts; electric range,
fied by its silver color and by the “AL” stamp on the cable sheathing. central air conditioner.
A variation—copper-clad aluminum wire—has a thin coating of cop-
#10
per bonded to a solid aluminum core. 30 amps, 240 volts; window air
conditioner, clothes dryer.
Circuit cables marked AL or CU-CLAD, and devices
marked CU-CLAD ONLY or CO/ALR indicate aluminum #12 20 amps, 120 volts; light fixtures,
wiring. Existing aluminum wiring in homes is receptacles, microwave oven.
considered safe if proper installation methods have #14
been followed, and if the wires are connected to 15 amps, 120 volts; light fixtures,
special switches and receptacles designed to receptacles.
be used with aluminum wire. If your home #16 Light-duty extension cords.
has aluminum wiring, hire a licensed
electrician to make changes to the
electrical system. #18 to 22 Thermostats, doorbells, security
systems.
Identifying Electrical Devices

Read the markings on replacement devices to
make sure they match the originals. Switches NOTE: Position
of the screw
and receptacles marked CU or COPPER are terminals on
for solid copper wire. Those marked CU- switch may
CLAD ONLY are for copper-clad aluminum vary, depending
on manufacturer Push-in
wire. Devices marked AL/CU are no longer fittings Wire
acceptable for use with any type of wire, gauge
rating
according to the National Electrical Code. Grounding
Standard devices carry amp and voltage ratings screw
of 15A, 125V. For switches and receptacles, Wire
voltage ratings of 110, 120, and 125 Amperage strip
& voltage gauge
are considered identical for replacement pur- ratings
poses. You’ll also find a specification for wire Screw
gauge (size). Standard-voltage devices for terminals
Wire release
20-amp circuits accept #12 wire; those for opening for
15-amp circuits, #14 wire. The abbreviation push-in
fittings
UL or UND. LAB. INC. LIST means the
device meets the safety standards of Wire
Underwriters Laboratories. compatibility
rating Mounting
Mounting strap
screw
FRONT BACK

Planning a Wiring Project Versatile Wiring

• Install receptacles in as many places
as is practical, especially in kitchens and
Careful planning of a wiring project ensures load to your main electrical service. In about other work areas. This makes living
you will have plenty of power for present and 25% of all homes, some type of service rooms more versatile and work rooms
future needs. Consider all possible ways a upgrade is needed before new wiring can be more efficient.
space might be used, and plan for enough installed. Many homeowners will need to • Install three-way switches where
electrical service to meet peak needs. For replace an older 60-amp electrical service with appropriate, such as in bedrooms or
example, a single 15-amp circuit provides a new service rated for 150 amps or more. living rooms with more than one entry.
plenty of power to a new spare bedroom, but This is a job for a licensed electrician but is • Maintain consistent lighting through-
if you ever choose to convert that room into a well worth the investment. In other cases, the out your home to aid those who have
family recreation space, it will need at least existing main service provides adequate difficulty detecting stairs or changes
two 20-amp circuits. power, but the main circuit breaker panel is in floor height.
Begin with evaluating your electrical loads too full to hold any new circuit breakers. In • Provide plenty of task lighting for
(see page 112) to ensure the total load of the this case it is necessary to install a circuit activity and reading areas.
existing wiring and the planned new circuits breaker subpanel to provide for added circuits. • Consider adding an intercom system;
will not exceed the main service capacity. A Next, draw a wiring diagram, get a permit, they’re convenient for those with
professional can recommend upgrades to and plan for inspections. Inspectors need to limited mobility and for family mem-
improve service and safety. see an accurate wiring diagram and materials bers living on separate floors.
A large wiring project adds a considerable list before issuing a permit.
Mapping Your System

Adding to your electrical system will be easier standard plan symbols (see page 113).
and safer if you have an up-to-date map of At the main service panel, label each circuit
your circuits. A circuit map shows all the with masking tape. Turn off all the circuits,
lights, appliances, switches, and receptacles then turn on one circuit at a time. Note the
connected to each circuit. It also allows you to amperage of each circuit.
index the main service panel so that the cor- Turn on switches, lights, and appliances
rect circuit can be shut off for repairs. throughout the house, and identify those that
The easiest way to map circuits is to turn on are powered by the circuit. Label each device
one circuit at a time and check which fixtures, with a piece of masking tape noting the circuit
receptacles, and appliances are affected. Start number and amperage rating.
by making a sketch of every room in the Test receptacles for power, using a neon cir-
house on graph paper. Include the hallways, cuit tester. Check both halves of receptacles, as
basement, attic, and all utility areas. (You can some may be wired on two circuits.
use a blueprint of your home, if you have one.) Check the furnace and electric water heater
Also sketch the exterior of the house, the for power by turning their thermostats to the
garage, and any other structures that are wired highest settings; turn down the thermostat to
for electricity. check central air-conditioning.
Indicate the location of all electrical devices, Tape an index summary of your map on the
including receptacles, light fixtures, switches, door of the main service panel, and attach the
appliances, doorbells, thermostats, heaters, completed circuit maps to the main service
fans, and air conditioners; it may help to use panel. Turn all the circuits back on.
110 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Planning

Learning About Codes
When you install new wiring, you are required
to get a permit and have the completed work
reviewed for safety by a licensed inspector.
Electrical inspectors use the National
Electrical Code (NEC) as the authority for Wall switch at
point of entry
evaluating wiring, but they also follow local to control a
building and electrical code standards. ceiling light or
As you begin planning new circuits, call or plug-in lamp.
visit your local electrical inspector to discuss Dedicated circuit for
your project. Inspectors are the final authority permanent appliances,
such as air condition-
on code requirements. They can tell you Walls more ers or baseboard
which code requirements apply to your job than 24” heaters.
wide
and may have a packet of information sum- need a
marizing these regulations. Although they are receptacle. Receptacles spaced no
more than 12 ft. apart.
busy, most inspectors will answer questions
and help you design well-planned circuits.
When you apply for a work permit, the
inspector may expect you to understand local
electrical guidelines, as well as some basic
NEC requirements. Some of the most com-
mon code issues are shown here. Electrical code requirements for living areas: Living areas need at least one 15-amp or 20-amp basic lighting/receptacle cir-
cuit for each 600 square ft. of living space. Kitchens and bathrooms must have a ceiling-mounted light fixture.
20-amp
⁄8" hole
5
receptacle
11⁄4"
Protector 15-amp
plate receptacle
Furring
strip
Cutaway
view
Cables must be protected against damage by nails and Kitchen and bathroom receptacles must be protected by Amp ratings of receptacles and other devices must match
screws by at least 11⁄4" of wood (top). When cables pass a GFCI (see page 136). Also, all outdoor receptacles and the size of the circuit. A common mistake is to use 20-amp
through 2 × 2 furring strips (bottom), protect the cables with general-use receptacles in an unfinished basement or crawl- receptacles (top) on 15-amp circuits—a potential cause of
metal protector plates. space must be protected by a GFCI. dangerous circuit overloads.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Planning 111

Calculating Circuit Loads
Calculating supply and demand—for each circuit and for the entire To calculate the load on a specific circuit, add up the wattage ratings
house—is an essential part of any wiring plan. This ensures that you’ll for all the fixtures and appliances on the circuit. Wattage ratings are
have properly sized circuits for the fixtures and appliances they supply, found on appliance nameplates and on the lightbulbs used by fixtures.
as well as an adequate main power supply to feed all of the circuits. If the wattage rating is not given for an appliance, multiply the amp
Whole-house demand is based on the maximum amount of electric- rating for the appliance by the voltage of the circuit (for example, a
ity your house is likely to use at any one time. You’ll probably need the 4-amp blender on a 120-volt circuit uses 480 watts). Ratings can also
help of an electrician or electrical inspector to determine if your main be found in owner’s manuals or by calling the manufacturer.
power supply is adequate to cover the additions you’re planning. If you Compare the circuit load to the safe capacity of the circuit: The load
have an old 60-amp service panel, you may be required by the building must not exceed the safe capacity. Overloaded circuits not only blow
department to upgrade your electrical service before making any fuses and trip breakers, but frequent overloads can damage circuit
changes to the house’s wiring. wiring and lead to short circuits. Also keep in mind that most perma-
To calculate the supply and demand for a specific circuit, first deter- nent appliances, like water heaters, dryers, and disposers, require their
mine the safe capacity of the circuit, then calculate the load of all the own dedicated circuits.
fixtures and appliances (new or existing) that will run on the circuit.
This will help you plan the number and type of new circuits you will
need, if any, and it can help you troubleshoot existing circuits that are Converting Amps/Volts/Watts
prone to tripping. Frequent trippings may indicate a short circuit or
other problem, but in most cases the circuit is merely overloaded. Amps × Volts Total capacity Safe capacity
Find the safe capacity of a circuit by multiplying the voltage by the 15 A × 120 V = 1800 watts 1440 watts
amperage, yielding the total capacity—in watts. Then multiply the total
capacity by 0.8 to find the safe capacity. The chart at right shows the 20 A × 120 V = 2400 watts 1920 watts
capacities of the most common household circuits. If the amp ratings 25 A × 120 V = 3000 watts 2400 watts
for the circuits aren’t listed on the index map inside the main service
30 A × 120 V = 3600 watts 2880 watts
panel, look for a number on the end of each breaker lever or on the rim
of each fuse. As for voltage, all single-pole breakers and plug fuses are 20 A × 240 V = 4800 watts 3840 watts
120 volt; double-pole breakers and cartridge fuses should be 240 volts. 30 A × 240 V = 7200 watts 5760 watts
Tripped
circuit
breaker
Nameplate
Amperage ratings are stamped on the ends of circuit breaker Circuit ratings in older service panels can be identified by Wattage ratings for appliances appear on manufacturers’
levers. Standard single-pole breakers are 120 volts. Double- reading the lettering on the fuses or cartridges. Plug fuses nameplates. If the rating is in kilowatts, find watts by multi-
pole breakers (240-volt) are much wider than single-poles, (shown above) are typical for 120-volt circuits. Cartridge fuses plying times 1000. If only amps are given, find watts by
and may be rated between 20 and 50 amps. control 240-volt circuits and are housed in a fuse block. multiplying the amps times the voltage—120 or 240.
112 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Planning

Drawing a Wiring Diagram
Drawing a wiring diagram is the last step in planning a circuit installa-
tion. A detailed wiring diagram helps you get a work permit, makes it
easy to create a list of materials, and serves as a guide for laying out cir-
cuits and installing cables and fixtures. Use the circuit maps on pages
114 to 121 to help you plan wiring configurations and cable runs.
Begin by drawing a scaled diagram of the space you’ll be wiring.
Show walls, doors, windows, plumbing pipes and fixtures, and HVAC
ducts. Calculate the floor space by multiplying room length by width
(don’t include closets or storage areas), and indicate this on the diagram.
Next, mark the locations of all switches, receptacles, light fixtures,
and permanent appliances, using the electrical symbols shown below.
Where you position these devices along the cable run determines how
they are wired. Draw cable runs between devices and indicate cable size
and type and circuit amperage. Identify each circuit with colored pencil.
Last, identify the wattages for light fixtures and permanent appli-
ances, and the type and size of each electrical box. Then create a
detailed materials list.
Bring the diagram and materials list when you visit the electrical
inspector to apply for a work permit. Never install new wiring without
following your community’s permit and inspection procedure. A work
permit is not expensive, and it ensures that your work will be reviewed You may be allowed to do some, if not all, of the work. A few com-
by a qualified inspector to guarantee its safety. munities allow you to install wiring only when supervised by an
The electrical inspector will look over your wiring diagram, and may electrician. This means you must hire a licensed electrician to apply for
ask questions to see if you have a basic understanding of the electrical the work permit and to check your work before the inspector arrives.
code and fundamental wiring skills. The electrician is held responsible for the quality of your job.
Electrical Symbol Key
240-volt Switched J Junction box Ceiling fan

receptacle receptacle CF
D Electric door
Isolated ground Weatherproof S Ceiling opener
receptacle receptacle pull switch
WP Low-voltage
BT
Duplex Surface-mounted transformer
receptacle S TH Thermostat light fixture
Television
240-volt Recessed TV jack
Pilot-light
D dryer receptacle
SP switch
R
light fixture
Telephone
Singleplex Single-pole Fluorescent outlet
receptacle S switch light fixture
Smoke
Fourplex Timer Wall-mounted D detector
receptacle ST switch light fixture
Vent fan
GFCI duplex Three-way Weatherproof VF
GFCI
receptacle S3 switch WP
light fixture
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Planning 113

Common Circuit Layouts
The arrangement of switches and appliances along an electrical circuit

differs for every project. This means that the configuration of wires
inside an electrical box can vary greatly, even when fixtures are identical. The Grounding System
The circuit maps on the following pages show some of the most com- Several switches, receptacles, light fixtures, or appliances may be
mon wiring variations for typical electrical devices. Most new wiring connected to a single circuit. For safety, most circuits include a bare
you install will match one or more of the examples shown. By finding copper or green insulated grounding wire, and many switches,
the examples that match your situation, you can use these maps to plan receptacles, light fixtures, metal boxes, and appliances include a
circuit layouts. green grounding screw to which the wire is attached.
The 120-volt circuits shown on the following pages are wired for 15 Individual grounding wires conduct current in the event of a short
amps, using 14-gauge wire and receptacles rated at 15 amps. If you are circuit or overload. This grounding system helps reduce the chance
installing a 20-amp circuit, substitute 12-gauge cables and use recepta- of fire in your home and minimizes the risk of severe electrical shock
cles rated for 20 amps. to people, appliances, and fixtures.
In configurations where a white wire serves as a hot wire instead of a From each electrical device the wires are run back to the ground bar
neutral, both ends of the wire are coded with black tape to identify it as in your service panel. From there, the wire is directed out of the
hot. In addition, each of the circuit maps shows a box grounding screw. house on a grounding rod, returning any overload safely to the
This grounding screw is required in all metal boxes, but plastic electrical earth.
boxes do not need to be grounded. The grounding system is an important safety feature of your home.
NOTE: For clarity, all grounding conductors in the circuit maps are Remember to reattach all grounding wires after completing electri-
colored green. In practice, the grounding wires inside sheathed cables cal installation or repair work.
usually are bare copper.
1. 120-volt Duplex Receptacles Wired in Sequence

Use this layout to link any number of duplex
receptacles in a basic lighting/receptacle cir-
cuit. The last receptacle in the cable run is 2-WIRE
CABLE
2-WIRE
CABLE
connected like the receptacle shown at the
right side of the circuit map below. All other
receptacles are wired like the receptacle shown
on the left side. Requires two-wire cables.
114 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Circuits

2. GFCI Receptacles (Single-location Protection)
Use this layout when receptacles are within 6

ft. of a water source, and where required in
kitchens and bathrooms. To prevent “nuisance
tripping” caused by normal power surges,
GFCIs should be connected only at the LINE 2-WIRE 2-WIRE
screw terminals, so they protect a single loca- CABLE CABLE
tion and not the fixtures on the LOAD side
LOAD
of the circuit. Requires two-wire cables. silver
LOAD
Where a GFCI must protect other fixtures, brass
use circuit map 3.
LINE LINE
silver brass
GFCI
3. GFCI Receptacle, Switch & Light Fixture (Multiple-location Protection)

In some locations, such as an outdoor circuit,
it’s a good idea to connect a GFCI receptacle
so it also provides shock protection to the
wires and fixtures that continue to the end of
the circuit. Wires from the power source are 2-WIRE 2-WIRE 2-WIRE
CABLE CABLE CABLE
connected to the LINE screw terminals; out-
going wires are connected to the LOAD LOAD LOAD
screws. Requires two-wire cables. silver brass
LINE LINE
silver brass
GFCI
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Circuits 115

Common Circuit Layouts (cont.)
4. Single-pole Switch & Light Fixture (Light Fixture at End of Cable Run)
Use this layout for light fixtures in basic light-

ing/receptacle circuits throughout the home.
It is often used as an extension to a series of
2-WIRE 2-WIRE
receptacles (circuit map 1). Requires two-wire CABLE CABLE
cables.
5. Single-pole Switch & Light Fixture, Duplex Receptacle (Switch at Start of Cable Run)
Use this layout to continue a circuit past a

switched light fixture to one or more duplex
receptacles. To add multiple receptacles to the
circuit, see circuit map 1. Requires two-wire
and three-wire cables.

6. Switch-controlled Split Receptacle, Duplex Receptacle (Switch at Start of Cable Run)
This layout lets you use a wall switch to con-
trol a lamp plugged into a wall receptacle.
This configuration is required by code for any
room that does not have a switch-controlled
ceiling fixture. Only the bottom half of the
first receptacle is controlled by the wall switch;
the top half of the receptacle and all addi-
tional receptacles on the circuit are always hot.
Requires two-wire and three-wire cables.
7. Switch-controlled Split Receptacle, Duplex Receptacle (Split Receptacle at Start of Run)
Use this variation of circuit map 6 where it is

more practical to locate a switch-controlled
receptacle at the start of a cable run. Only the
bottom half of the first receptacle is controlled
by the wall switch; the top half of the recepta-
cle, and all other receptacles on the circuit, are
always hot. Requires two-wire cables.

8. 240-volt Appliance Receptacle
This layout represents a 20-amp, 240-volt dedi-
cated appliance circuit wired with 12/2 cable, as
required by code for a large window air condi-
tioner. Receptacles are available in both
singleplex (shown) and duplex styles. The black
and white circuit wires connected to a double-
pole breaker each bring 120 volts of power to
the receptacle. The white wire is tagged (coded)
with black tape to indicate it is hot.
AC
9. Double Receptacle Circuit with Shared Neutral Wire (Receptacles Alternate Circuits)
This layout features two 120-volt circuits the red wire powers the other. The white wire
wired with one three-wire cable connected to is a shared neutral that serves both circuits.
a double-pole circuit breaker. The advantage When wired with 12/2 and 12/3 cable, and
of this layout is that it allows for two circuits GFCI receptacles rated for 20 amps, this lay-
on a single run of cable, simplifying installa- out can be used for the two small-appliance
tion. The black hot wire powers one circuit; circuits required in a kitchen.

10. 240-volt Baseboard Heaters, Thermostat
This layout is typical for a series of 240-volt
baseboard heaters controlled by a wall ther-
mostat. Except for the last heater in the
circuit, all heaters are wired as shown here.
The last heater is connected to only one cable.
The size of the circuit and cables are deter-
mined by finding the total wattage of all
heaters (see page 112). Requires two-wire
cable.
S TH
BB
11. 120/240-volt Appliance Receptacle

This layout is for a 50-amp, 120/240-volt
dedicated appliance circuit wired with 6/3
cable, as required by code for a large kitchen
range. The black and red circuit wires, con-
nected to a double-pole circuit breaker in the
circuit breaker panel, each bring 120 volts of
power to the setscrew terminals on the recep-
tacle. The white circuit wire attached to the
neutral bus bar in the circuit breaker panel is
connected to the neutral setscrew terminal on
the receptacle.

12. Three-way Switches & Light Fixture (Fixture between Switches)
This layout for three-way switches lets you control
a light fixture from two locations. Each switch has
one COMMON screw terminal and two TRAVELER
screws. Circuit wires attached to the TRAVELER
screws run between the switches, and hot wires
attached to the COMMON screws bring current from
the power source and carry it to the light fixture.
Requires two-wire and three-wire cables.
S3 S3
13. Three-way Switches & Light Fixture (Fixture at Start of Cable Run)
Coded Coded
for hot
Use this layout variation of circuit map 12 where it for hot
Traveler
is more convenient to locate the fixture ahead of
2-WIRE 2-WIRE 3-WIRE
the three-way switches in the cable run. Requires CABLE CABLE CABLE
two-wire and three-wire cables.
Coded
for hot
IMAGE: CHW, 151-D
Common HOM IMP HOM B&D PG C
Common
Traveler Traveler
S3 S3
ee-way Switches & Light Fixture (Fixture at End of Cable Run)

14. Three-way Switches & Light Fixture with Duplex Receptacle
Use this layout to add a receptacle to a three-

way switch configuration (circuit map 12). 2-WIRE 2-WIRE
Requires two-wire and three-wire cables. CABLE CABLE
Coded
for hot Coded
Common for hot
Common
S3 S3
2-WIRE 3-WIRE
CABLE CABLE
15. Four-way Switch & Light Fixture (Fixture at End of Cable Run)
This layout for a four-way switch lets you

control a light fixture from three locations. A
pair of three-wire cables enter the box of the
four-way switch. The black and the red wires
from one cable attach to the top pair of screw
terminals (LINE 1), and the black and red
wires from the other cable attach to the bot-
tom screw terminals (LINE 2). Requires
two-wire and three-wire cables.
S3 S4 S3

Installing Electrical Boxes & Cables

Install electrical boxes for all devices only after
Cable your wiring plan has been approved by an
staple inspector. Use your plan as a guide and follow
Cable
staple electrical code guidelines when laying out box
8" positions (see photo, left). Some electrical fix-
max. tures, like recessed lights and exhaust fans,
4 ft.
have their own wire connection boxes; install
these along with the other electrical boxes.
After your boxes are installed, run all of the
48" NM cables. Start each new circuit near the
Cable service panel or subpanel, and run them to the
staple
first boxes in the circuit. Also run any branch
cables between boxes on the same circuit.
Schedule a rough-in inspection after the
cables are run. When the rough-in wiring has
Smooth
been approved, you can close up the walls and
curve install the electrical devices. Then, hire an
About 20"
electrician to make the final connections at
12" the service panel or subpanel.
Tools: Screwdrivers, drill, 5⁄8" and 1" bits,

Standard heights for electrical boxes are as follows (mea- 4 ft. thereafter when they run along studs. Cables should not bit extender, needlenose pliers, fish tape,
sured to the box centers): receptacle boxes in living areas are be crimped or bent sharply or be installed diagonally cable ripper, combination tool.
12" above the finished floor; switches are at 48". GFCI boxes between framing members. Some inspectors specify that
in bathrooms should be about 10" above the countertop, cables running between receptacle boxes should be about Materials: Electrical boxes, NM cable,
and thermostats between 48" to 60". Switch boxes should be 20" above the floor. For special circumstances, inspectors cable clamps and staples, cable lubri-
at accessible locations, such as on the latch sides of doors. may allow changes to these measurements (see Universal cant, masking and electrical tape,
Cables should be stapled within 8" of each box, and every Design tip, opposite page). grounding pigtails, wire connectors.
Tips for Installing Electrical Boxes

1
⁄2"
Cross
block
46"
Position each box against a stud so the front face will be flush with the finished wall. For To install a switch box between studs, first install a cross block between the studs, with the
example, if you will be installing 1⁄2" wallboard, position the box so it extends 1⁄2" past the front top edge 46" above the floor. Position the box on the cross block so the front face will be flush
edge of the stud. Anchor the box by driving the mounting nails into the stud. with the finished wall, and drive the mounting nails into the cross block.
122 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Boxes & Cables

Recessed fixtures that fit inside wall cavities (far left) have
built-in wire connection boxes, and require no additional
electrical boxes. Common recessed fixtures include electric
blower-heaters (shown here), bathroom vent fans, and
recessed light fixtures. Surface-mounted fixtures, such as elec-
tric baseboard heaters and fluorescent lights, have wire
connection boxes that are integral to the fixtures; they need
no boxes installed during the rough-in.
Open one knockout for each cable (left) that will enter the
box. You can open the knockouts as you install the boxes or
wait until you run cable to each box. Open a knockout by
striking inside the scored lines of the knockout with a screw-
driver and hammer. Then, use the screwdriver to break off
any sharp edges that might damage the vinyl sheathing of
the cable.
A U N I V E R S A L D E S I G N
Mounting bracket
Accessible Box Heights

Brace bar Following a few simple guidelines will enable everyone
to reach and use light switches, electrical receptacles, and
climate control devices.
Wallboard
Internal • Plan a clear approach space of 30 × 48" in front of
Cutaway view clamp
electrical panels, thermostats, intercoms, and security
system controls.
B • Locate light switches and intercoms at a height of 40"
to 48", within the reach of children and seated users.
• Consider the heights of thermostats—they should be
Brace bar low enough for an adult in a wheelchair, but too high
for a young child.
• Install receptacles at a minimum height of 18",
Metal
although 20" to 40" may be preferred. This makes it
electrical easy for seated users and standing users who have
box trouble bending.
• Consider the height and placement of receptacles in
To mount a light fixture between joists, attach an electrical box to an adjustable brace bar kitchens or bathrooms. See pages 418 to 421 and
(photo A). Nail the ends of the brace bar to the joists so the face of the box will be flush with 430 to 433.
the finished ceiling surface. Slide the box along the brace bar to the desired position, then
tighten the mounting screws. Use internal cable clamps for boxes mounted with a brace bar.
NOTE: For ceiling fans and heavy light fixtures, use a metal box and heavy-duty brace bar
rated for heavy loads (photo B).
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Boxes & Cables 123

Installing NM Cables
A B
11⁄4" minimum
12" maximum
Drill 5⁄8" holes in framing members for the cable runs. This is done easily with a right-angle Staple one end of each new circuit cable within 12" of the service panel or subpanel, leaving
drill (available at rental centers). Set back holes at least 11⁄4" from the front edges of the fram- 2 ft. of extra cable for entering the panel. Loosely coil the extra cable to keep it out of the way.
ing members. Where cables will turn corners, drill intersecting holes in adjoining faces of Run the cable to the first electrical box. Where the cable runs along the sides of framing mem-
studs (see step C, below). Measure and cut all cables, allowing 2 ft. extra at ends entering the bers, anchor it with cable staples no more than 4 ft. apart.
service panel, and 1 ft. extra for ends entering an electrical box.
C D
8"
Cutaway view
1
⁄2"
At corners, form a slight L-shaped bend in the end of the cable and insert it into one hole. At each electrical box, staple the cable to a framing member 8" from the box. Hold the cable
Retrieve the cable through the other hole, using needlenose pliers (inset). taut against the front of the box, aligning it with the knockout, and mark a point on the
sheathing 1⁄2" past the box edge. Strip cable from the marked line to the end, and clip away
excess sheathing (see page 129). Insert the cable through the knockout in the box. If required,
clamp the cable in place (see page 107).
124 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Cables

E F
8"
As each cable is installed in a box, clip back each wire so that 8" of workable wire extends Strip 3⁄4" of insulation from each circuit wire in the box, using a combination tool. Choose the
past the front edge of the box. opening that matches the gauge of the wire, and take care not to nick the copper.
G H
Continue the circuit by running cable between each pair of electrical boxes, leaving an extra At metal boxes and recessed fixtures, open knockouts and attach cables with cable clamps.
1 ft. of cable at each end. From inside the fixture, strip away all but 1⁄4" of sheathing. Clip back wires so there is 8" of
workable length, then strip 3⁄4" of insulation from each wire.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Cables 125

Installing NM Cables (cont.)
I J
Grounding
clip
Pigtail
For a surface-mounted fixture, such as a baseboard heater or fluorescent light fixture, staple At each recessed fixture and metal electrical box, connect one end of a grounding pigtail to
the cable to a stud near the fixture location, leaving plenty of excess cable. Mark the floor so the metal frame, using a grounding clip attached to the frame (shown here) or a green
the cable will be easy to find if it accidentally gets covered. grounding screw (see page 107).
K L
At each electrical box and recessed fixture, join the ground- Label the cables entering each box to indicate their destinations. In boxes with complex wiring configurations, also tag the
ing wires together with a wire connector. individual wires to simplify the final hookups. After all cables are installed, your rough-in work is ready to be reviewed by an
electrical inspector.

Installing Cable inside a Finished Wall
A B C Cutaway
view
Attic Attic
Top plate
Bottom
plate
Bottom
plate
Drill bit
extender
Cutaway view Top plate Basement
From the unfinished space below the finished wall, look for From the unfinished space above the finished wall, find the Extend a fish tape down through the top plate, twisting the
reference points, like plumbing pipes or electrical cables, that top of the stud cavity by measuring from the same fixed ref- tape until it reaches the bottom of the stud cavity. From the
indicate the location of the wall above. Choose a location for erence point used in step A. Drill a 1" hole down through the unfinished space below the wall, use a piece of stiff wire with
the new cable that does not interfere with existing utilities. top plate and into the stud cavity, using a drill bit extender. a hook on one end to retrieve the fish tape through the drilled
Drill a 1" hole up into the stud cavity. hole in the bottom plate.
D E F
Cutaway view
Trim back 3" of outer insulation from the end of the NM Bend the wires against the cable, then use electrical tape to From above the finished wall, pull steadily on the fish tape to
cable, then insert the wires through the loop at the end of the bind them tightly. Apply cable-pulling lubricant to the taped draw the cable up through the stud cavity. To make this job
fish tape. end of the fish tape (see page 128). easier, have a helper feed the cable from below as you pull.

Installing Cable inside a Finished Wall (cont.)
Tips for Installing Cable Inside a Finished Wall
Second
story
Fish tape
Hole cut
in wall
Bottom Fish tapes

plate
Cable will be pulled
from upstairs wall to
downstairs wall
Cable will be pulled

along joist cavity from
upstairs wall to
downstairs wall
Top plate
First Hole cut Cutaway Cutaway

story in wall view view
If there is no access space above and below a wall, cut openings in the finished walls to run a cable. This often occurs in VA R I AT I O N : If the walls do not line up, use a second
two-story homes when a cable is extended from an upstairs wall to a downstairs wall. Cut small openings in the wall near fish tape. After running the cable, repair the holes in the
the top and bottom plates, then drill an angled 1" hole through each plate. Extend a fish tape into the joist cavity between walls with patching plaster, or wallboard scraps and taping
the walls and use it to pull the cable from one wall to the next. If the walls line up one over the other, you can retrieve the compound.
fish tape using a piece of stiff wire.
Cutaway
view
Apply cable-pulling lubricant to the taped end of the fish If you do not have a fish tape, use a length of sturdy To run cable along a baseboard, first remove the baseboard
tape when a cable must be pulled through a sharp bend. Do mason's string and a lead fishing weight or heavy washer to and cut away the wall material about 1" below the top of the
not use oil or petroleum jelly as a lubricant, because they can fish down through a stud cavity. Drop the line into the stud baseboard. Drill a 5⁄8" hole in the center of each stud, then run
damage the thermoplastic cable sheathing. cavity from above, then use a piece of stiff wire to hook the cable through the holes. Use a fish tape to pull the cable up
line from below. through stud channels to the gang box locations.

Running Cable Inside a Finished Ceiling
If you don’t have access to a ceiling from
above or don’t have a receptacle from which to
draw power, you can run cable from a recepta-
cle in the room up the wall and into the Nail stop
ceiling without disturbing much of the ceiling.
To begin, run cable from the receptacle to
the stud channel that aligns with the ceiling
joists on which you want to install a fixture
(see pages 127 to 128). Be sure to plan a loca-
tion for the new switch.
Switch location
Remove short strips of drywall from the
wall and ceiling. Make a notch in the center
of the top plates, and protect the notch with
metal nail stops.
Use a fish tape to pull the new cable up
through the wall cavity and the notch in top
plates. Next, use the fish tape to pull the cable
through the ceiling to the fixture hole. After
having your work inspected, replace the dry-
wall and install the fixture and switch.
To install new cable in a finished ceiling, remove small sections of drywall, then use a fish tape to pull the cable through
the wall channels. Where necessary, drill 5⁄8" holes through the center of framing members for routing the cable.
Stripping NM Cable & Wires

A B C
Cutting point
Measure and mark the cable 8" to 10" from the end. Slide the Peel back the plastic sheathing and the paper wrapping Strip insulation from each wire, using the stripper openings.
cable ripper onto the cable, and squeeze the tool firmly to from the individual wires. Cut away the excess plastic sheath- Choose the opening that matches the gauge of the wire, and
force the cutting point through the plastic sheathing. Grip ing and paper wrapping, using the cutting jaws of a take care not to nick or scratch the ends of the wires.
the cable tightly and pull the cable ripper toward the end of combination tool.
the cable to cut open the sheathing.

Installing Electrical Devices

Common household electrical devices include connecting the circuits at the service panel.
switches, receptacles, light fixtures, smoke Most electrical devices are connected to
alarms, and specialty items that are perma- circuit wires with screw terminals, push-in fit-
nently connected to an electrical circuit. Most tings, or wire leads—short wires permanently
devices are easy to install and often include attached to the device.
directions or color-coding to simplify the con- Use a wire connector (right) to join circuit
nections. Specific wiring will vary, based on wires to leads, or to connect pigtail wires.
the type of device, the manufacturer, and the Wire connectors come in several sizes that are
wiring configuration (where it lies in the cir- colored for identification. Always use the right
cuit), but there are a few general rules to size of connector for the number and gauge of
follow when purchasing and installing devices. wires you’re working with (follow the chart on
Always use devices that have the same amp the package).
and voltage ratings as the circuit they will run To make the connection, cut the wire ends
on (see page 109). Devices with the wrong even, then strip about 1⁄2" of insulation from
ratings can lead to dangerous circuit overloads. each wire. Insert the wires into the connector
Be sure the power to a circuit is shut off be- and screw the connector clockwise until it’s
fore beginning any electrical work (see page 104). snug (there’s no need to pretwist the wires).
And always complete the installation before Tug gently on each wire to make sure it’s
restoring power to the circuit. When working secure, then make sure no bare wire is visible
on new circuits, install the devices before outside the connector.
Connecting Wires to Screw Terminals

A B C
Strip about 3⁄4" of insulation from each wire, using a combi- Form a C-shaped loop on the end of each wire, using Hook each wire around a screw terminal so it forms a clock-
nation tool. Choose the stripper opening that matches the needlenose pliers. The wire should be free of scratches and wise loop. Tighten the screw firmly. The wire insulation should just
gauge of the wire, then clamp the wire in the tool. Pull the nicks. touch the head of the screw. Never attach two wires to a sin-
wire firmly to remove the plastic insulation. gle screw terminal. Instead, use a pigtail wire (see page 131).
130 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Devices

Connecting Wires to Push-in Fittings
A B C
Release
opening
Strip
gauge
Mark the amount of insulation to be stripped from each wire, Insert the bare copper wires firmly into the push-in fittings on Remove a wire from a push-in fitting by inserting a small nail
using the strip gauge on the back of the switch or receptacle. the back of the switch or receptacle. When connected, the or screwdriver into the release opening next to the wire. Pull
Strip the wires using a combination tool (see step A, page wires should have no bare copper exposed. out the wire to remove it.
130). NOTE: Never use push-in fittings with aluminum wiring.
Pigtailing Wires
C
= ircuit wires
Pigtail Grounding
pigtail
Grounding
screw
Grounding
wires
Wire connector
Connect two or more wires to a single screw terminal with a pigtail. A pigtail is a short piece Use a grounding pigtail to connect circuit grounding wires to a grounded metal electrical
of wire. Connect one end of the pigtail to a screw terminal, and the other end to the circuit box. Grounding pigtails have green insulation and are available with preattached grounding
wires, using a wire connector. You can also use pigtails to lengthen circuit wires that are too screws. Attach the grounding screw to the box, and join the end of the pigtail to the bare
short. NOTE: The pigtail must be of the same type and gauge as the circuit wires. copper grounding wires with a wire connector.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Devices 131

Installing Switches
There are three standard types of wall U N I V E R S A L D E S I G N
switches: single-pole, three-way, and four-way;
all are shown here. Each type can be identified
by the number of screw terminals it has. Simpler Switches
Newer switches may also have push fittings in Conventional toggle-type switches can be
addition to screw terminals. difficult to use—whether your arms are full of
Most switches include a grounding terminal, grocery bags or you have limited dexterity.
which is identified by its green color. When Consider installing alternative switches, where
pigtailed to the grounding wires, the ground- appropriate:
ing screw provides added protection against • Rocker switches can be operated simply by
shock. If a switch doesn’t have a grounding pressing one side of a large rocker panel.
screw, it must be contained in a grounded • Switches with internal lights help users
metal electrical box. locate the switch and may help orient
Also available are specialty switches that are someone in the dark.
designed to add convenience and security to • Remote switches allow a person to control
your home. The most common are dimmer lighting before entering a room and after
switches, combination switch/receptacles, and leaving it.
pilot-light switches. More sophisticated types • Motion- and sound-activated switches
include motion-sensing switches with an (photo, right) provide on-demand light.
infrared beam that detects nearby movement • Switch coverplates in colors that contrast
and turns the switches on or off, and pro- with the walls are easier to see in low light.
grammable switches with digital controls that
can store up to four ON-OFF cycles per day.
Single-pole Switches
A single-pole switch is the most common A B
type of wall switch. It usually has ON-OFF
markings on the switch lever, and is used to
Black hot
control a set of lights, an appliance, or a recep- wire
tacle from a single location. A single-pole Cables
switch has two screw terminals. Most types
also have a grounding screw.
In a correctly wired single-pole switch, a hot
Grounding
circuit wire is attached to each screw terminal. wires
However, the color and number of wires
inside the switch box will vary, depending on White
the switch location along the electrical circuit. neutral
wires
If two cables enter the box, the switch lies in
the middle of the circuit (photo A). In this Cable
Black hot
installation, both of the hot wires attached to wires
the switch are black. White
If only one cable enters the box, the switch wire
Grounding (coded
lies at the end of the circuit (photo B). In this wire for hot)
installation (sometimes called a switch loop),
one of the hot wires is black, but the other hot
wire usually is white. A white hot wire should
be coded with black tape or paint. Installation of a single-pole switch in the middle of a circuit. Installation of a single-pole switch at the end of a circuit.
132 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Switches

Three-way Switches
Three-way switches have three screw termi- A Traveler screw B Traveler screw White wire
nals and do not have ON-OFF markings. They terminals Grounding Two-wire terminals
wires (coded for hot)
are always installed in pairs and are used to cable
control a set of lights from two locations.
One of the screw terminals on a three-way
switch is darker than the others. This is the
common screw terminal; its position may vary
by manufacturer. The two lighter-colored
screw terminals on a three-way switch are
called traveler screw terminals. These termi-
nals are interchangeable.
If a switch lies in the middle of a circuit, the
box should have two cables: one two-wire
cable, and one three-wire cable (photo A).
The black (hot) wire from the two-wire cable
is connected to the common screw terminal,
and the red and black wires from the three-
Common
wire cable connect to the traveler terminals. Three-wire screw Grounding
At the end of a circuit, a three-way switch is Common cable
screw terminal terminal wire
connected to one three-wire cable (photo B).
The white wire is coded black for hot. Installation of a three-way switch in the middle of a circuit. Installation of a three-way switch at the end of a circuit.
Four-way Switches
Four-way switches have four screw terminals
Brass
and do not have ON-OFF markings. They are screw Grounding
always installed between a pair of three-way terminals wires
switches, making it possible to control a set of
lights from three or more locations. Four-way
switches are common in homes where large
rooms contain multiple living areas, such as
where a kitchen opens into a dining room.
In a typical four-way switch installation,
there will be a pair of three-wire cables that
enter the switch box. With most switches, the
hot wires from one cable should be attached
to the bottom or top pair of screw terminals,
and the hot wires from the other cable should
be attached to the remaining pair of screw
terminals.
However, not all switches are designed the Copper
same way, and the wiring configurations in the screw
boxes may vary, as well. Always study the terminals
wiring diagram that comes with the switch. Four wires are connected to a four-way switch. The hot wires VA R I AT I O N : For the switch shown above, one pair of
Some four-way switches have a wiring guide from one cable are attached to the top pair of screw termi- color-matched circuit wires will be connected to the screw ter-
stamped on the back of the device. nals, while the hot wires from the other cable are attached to minals marked LINE 1; the other pair will be attached to the
the bottom screw terminals. screw terminals marked LINE 2.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Switches 133

Installing Receptacles
A A standard duplex receptacle has two halves
that receive plugs. Each half has a long (neu-
White tral) slot, a short (hot) slot, and a U-shaped
neutral grounding hole. The three slots fit the wide
wire
prong, the narrow prong, and the grounding
prong of a three-prong plug. This ensures the
Grounding screw
connection will be polarized and grounded.
Brass screw terminal A 125-volt duplex receptacle can be wired
Black hot wire to the electrical system in a number of ways.
Silver The most common are shown on these pages.
screw
terminal Receptacles are wired as either end-of-run or
middle-of-run. These configurations are easily
identified by counting the number of cables
Metal receptacle box
entering the receptacle box. End-of-run
Grounding wires
wiring (photo A) has only one cable, indicat-
ing that the circuit ends. Middle-of-run
wiring (photo B) has two cables, indicating
Grounding screw terminal that the circuit continues on to other recepta-
cles, switches, or fixtures.
In a split-circuit receptacle (photo C), each
Single cable entering the box indicates end-of-run wiring. The black hot wire is attached to a brass screw terminal, and the
half of the receptacle is wired to a separate
white neutral wire is connected to a silver screw terminal. If the box is metal, the grounding wire is pigtailed to the ground-
circuit. This allows two appliances of high
ing screws of the receptacle and the box. In a plastic box, the grounding wire is attached directly to the grounding screw
terminal of the receptacle.
wattage to be plugged into the same receptacle
without blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker.
This wiring configuration is similar to a
B White receptacle that is controlled by a wall switch.
neutral Most electrical codes require a switch-controlled
wires receptacle in any room that does not have a
built-in light fixture operated by a wall switch.
Grounding screw Split-circuit and switch-controlled recepta-
cles are connected to two hot wires, so use
caution during repairs and replacements. And
make sure the connecting tab between the hot
Black hot wires
screw terminals is removed.
Two-slot receptacles (photo D) are common
in older homes. There is no grounding wire
attached to the receptacle, but the box may be
Silver Grounding wires
grounded with armored cable or conduit.
screw Ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI)
terminals Brass screw
terminals receptacles (see page 136) are required by
code in rooms where water may be present
Grounding and in outside locations. GFCIs can be wired
screw to protect one or more receptacles on a single
terminal circuit.
Two cables entering the box indicate middle-of-run wiring. The black hot wires are connected to brass screw terminals, and
the white neutral wires are connected to the silver screw terminals. The grounding wire is pigtailed to the grounding screws
of the receptacle and the box.
134 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Receptacles

A split-circuit receptacle is attached to a
black hot wire, a red hot wire, a white
C
White
neutral wire, and a bare grounding wire. neutral
The wiring is similar to a switch- wire
controlled receptacle. 3-wire
Brass screw cable
The hot wires are attached to the brass terminal
screw terminals, and the connecting tab Silver
screw Grounding
or fin between the brass terminals is terminal screw
removed. The white wire is attached to a
silver screw terminal, and the connecting Black hot
wire
tab on the neutral side remains intact.
The grounding wire is pigtailed to the
grounding screw terminal of the recepta- Connecting
cle and to the grounding screw attached tab removed
to the box. Connecting
tab intact Red hot
wire
Grounding Grounding wires

screw
terminal Single cable
entering the
box indicates
end-of-run
wiring
A two-slot receptacle is often found in

older homes. The black hot wires are con-
D
nected to the brass screw terminals, and
the white neutral wires are pigtailed to a
silver screw terminal.
Two-slot receptacles may be replaced Black

with three-slot types, but only if a means hot
wires
of grounding exists at the receptacle box.
NOTE: If you have a remodeling project

that involves installing additional recep- White
tacles to a circuit containing two-slot neutral
receptacles, you may be required by code wires
to replace the two-slot receptacles with
standard three-slot receptacles. Check Brass screw
with your electrical inspector for code terminals
restrictions in your area.
Silver
screw
terminal
Two cables
entering the
box indicate
middle-of-run
wiring
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Receptacles 135

Installing a GFCI Receptacle
Middle-of-run GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) recep-
configuration tacles protect against electrical shock caused
shown
by common hazards such as faulty appliances,
Neutral worn cords, or wet plugs. They are required by
wires
code for receptacle installations where water
may be present, such as in bathrooms,
kitchens, garages, crawlspaces, unfinished
basements, and outside locations.
GFCIs automatically shut off power when
Grounding
wires there are changes in current flow. Because of
this, GFCIs provide security even if they’re
Hot not grounded. This makes them suitable for
wires
replacing old duplex receptacles where no
grounding path exists.
A GFCI can be wired to protect only itself
(single-location) or to protect itself and all
Receptacle Box devices “down-stream” to the end of the circuit
grounding grounding
screw
(multiple-location). It cannot protect devices
screw
between itself and the main service panel.
A GFCI receptacle has a red RESET button and a black TEST Wired for single-location protection, a GFCI (shown from Single-location wiring is preferable, since
button on its face. Test a GFCI monthly by pressing the black the back) has hot and neutral wires connected only to the multiple devices may make a GFCI overly
button: The red button should click out and shut off the screw terminals marked LINE. The circuit grounding wires are sensitive to false trippings. Consult an electri-
power. Restore power by depressing the red button. pigtailed to the grounding screw on the receptacle. cian for help with multiple-location wiring.
Installing a GFCI Receptacle for Single-location Protection

A B C
Shut off power to the circuit at the main service panel. Pigtail Pigtail the black hot wires together, and connect the pigtail Connect the grounding wire to the green grounding screw
the white neutral wires together (see page 126), and connect to the terminal marked HOT LINE on the GFCI. terminal on the GFCI. Mount the GFCI to the box, and attach
the pigtail to the terminal marked WHITE LINE on the GFCI. the coverplate. Restore power and test the GFCI according to
the manufacturer’s instructions.
136 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ GFCI

Installing Light Fixtures & Smoke Alarms
Household light fixtures and smoke alarms
typically run on standard, 120-volt circuits. Electrical
Often, all of the fixtures for a room and neigh- Grounding box
Metal brace wires
boring hallway can be powered by one circuit.
Hot
Light fixtures come in a wide range of styles, wires
including wall-mounted sconces, ceiling-
mounted globes, pendant (hanging) lights, Mounting
Neutral screws
recessed lights, and chandeliers. Most light fix- wires
tures come with their own internal wiring, and
Fixture
connecting them is simply a matter of joining base
the fixture leads to the circuit wires.
In a typical incandescent light fixture, a black
hot wire is connected to a black wire lead or
brass screw terminal. The power flows to a small Socket
tab at the bottom of the metal socket and
through a metal filament inside the bulb, heat-
ing the filament and making it glow. The
current then flows back through the socket
and the white neutral wire back to the main
service panel. See page 138 for installing
recessed light fixtures in a finished ceiling and Shade
page 139 for installing track lighting.
Before 1959, light fixtures were mounted
directly to an electrical box or to plaster lath.
Codes now require that fixtures be attached to
mounting straps that are anchored to fixed A typical incandescent light fixture has hot and neutral leads that connect to circuit wires with wire connectors. Electrical
boxes for fixtures must be attached directly to framing or to metal braces that span between framing members.
electrical boxes. As you plan your remodeling
project, replace any fixtures that are attached to
lath with fixtures supported by approved elec- U N I V E R S A L D E S I G N
trical boxes with mounting straps.
In remodeling work, new smoke alarms must Fixtures for a Lifespan Home
be hard-wired, meaning they are powered by a A universal lighting plan includes fixtures that provide appropriate light levels and require
household circuit, not a battery. Some codes minimal effort to operate and maintain. Distribute overhead, wall, and task lighting evenly
also require hard-wired alarms to have a bat- in order to create a safe environment, especially for people with vision limitations.
tery back-up. Alarms also must be wired in
series, so that if one alarm triggers, it sets off • Choose fixtures with bulbs that can • Consider touch-controlled light
all of the other alarms automatically. be changed easily. Some fixtures have fixtures, which don’t require precise
See page 139 to install a smoke alarm. To retractable cords that let you pull the hand movements for operation.
wire alarms in series, run three-wire cable fixture close for changing bulbs. • Install a power-failure light in
between the various alarms, using the red cable • Look for fixtures that have at least two each room.
wire to join the trigger wires of the different units. bulbs; this ensures there will be a light • Consider using fluorescent bulbs
source even when one bulb burns out. where appropriate. They last longer
• Choose timed, motion-, or voice- and cost less than incandescents,
Tools: Neon circuit tester, continuity
tester, wire cutter. activated lights where appropriate. and newer fluorescent bulbs are color-
These lights eliminate the need to find corrected to provide light that is
Materials: New fixture or fixture kit, NM and operate switches. (Make sure the pleasing to the eye. Compact fluorescent
cable, gang boxes (as needed), wire fixture settings are easily adjustable.) bulbs are available to replace standard
connectors. incandescent bulbs.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Light Fixtures 137

Installing a Recessed Light Fixture in a Finished Ceiling
A B
Turn off the power at the service panel. Make the hole for the can with a drywall saw or hole Remove a knockout from the electrical box attached to the fixture, and thread about 14" of the
saw. Most fixtures will include a template for sizing the hole. Use a fish tape to run the cable cable into the box and secure it with a cable clamp. Remove 12" of the sheathing from the cable,
from the switch box to the hole (see pages 127 to 129 for instructions on running cable in fin- and strip 3⁄4" of insulation from the wires. Using wire connectors, connect the black fixture wire
ished walls and ceilings). Pull about 16" of cable out of the hole for making the connection. to the black circuit wire, the white fixture wire to the white circuit wire, and then connect the
ground wire to the grounding screw or grounding wire (shown) attached to the box.
C D
Install the fixture in the ceiling, depressing the mounting clips so the can will fit into the hole. Install the trim by pressing the trim into the fixture until its spring clips snap into place.
Insert the fixture so that its edge is tight to the ceiling. Push the mounting clips back out so Restore the power and adjust the trim.
they grip the drywall and hold the fixture in place.
138 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Light Fixtures

Installing Track Lighting
A B C
L-connector
Mounting
plate
Power-supply
cover
Power-supply Power-supply
connector connector
Connect the power-supply connector to the circuit wires, Mount the first track to the ceiling, screwing it into framing Install additional tracks, connecting them to the first track
using wire connectors. Then, attach the mounting plate to members or using toggle bolts. Secure the track to the with L- or T-connectors. Install the power-supply cover. Cap
the electrical box. mounting plate with screws. Snap the power-supply connec- bare track ends with dead-end pieces. Position the light fix-
tor into the track. tures as desired.
Installing a Smoke Alarm

A B C
Trigger wire
Gasket
Quick-
connect
plug
Feed the wires through the mounting plate, then attach the Use wire connectors to connect the circuit wires to the quick- Install the gasket, plug the quick-connect plug into the alarm
plate to the electrical box, using the mounting screws pro- connect plug leads. Screw a wire connector onto the end of and twist the alarm onto the mounting plate.
vided with the smoke alarm kit. the yellow wire, if present. (The yellow wire is used only if two
or more alarms are wired in the series.)
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Light Fixtures 139

Installing a Ceiling Fan & Light
A combination fan and light is a great choice for a kitchen ceiling fix- A
ture. Using the wiring from an existing light fixture, you can easily
install it yourself. The best fans have forward and reverse speeds—
counterclockwise for summer and clockwise for winter.
Most standard ceiling fans work with a wall switch functioning as
master power for the unit. Pull chains attached to the unit control the
fan and lights. If you would like to eliminate the pull chains, consider a
remote-control device.
When shopping for a ceiling fan, look at the warranty—a longer war-
ranty indicates a higher-quality, quieter motor.
Tools: Stepladder, screwdrivers, wire stripper, pliers or

adjustable wrench, neon circuit tester, hammer.
Materials: Ceiling fan-light kit, 2 × 4 lumber or adjustable
ceiling fan cross brace, 11⁄2" and 3" wallboard screws.
Shut off the power to the circuit at the service panel. Unscrew the existing fixture and care-
fully pull it away from the ceiling. Do not touch bare wires. Test for power by inserting the
probes of a neon circuit tester into the wire connectors on the black and white wires. If the
tester lights, return to the service panel and turn off the correct circuit. Disconnect the wire
Hook
Mounting connectors and remove the old fixture.
bracket
B
Rod hanger pipe
Canopy
Hanging pin
Motor collar
Mounting screw
Fan motor
Fan
blade
Due to the added weight and vibration of a ceiling fan, you must determine whether the exist-
Fan ing electrical box will provide adequate support. If you can access the box from the attic,
direction check to see that it is metal, not plastic, and that it has a heavy-duty cross brace rated for
control Light
ceiling fans. If the box is not adequately braced, cut a 2 × 4 to fit between the joists and
fixture
attach it with 3" screws. Attach a metal electrical box to the brace from below with at least
three 11⁄2" wallboard screws. Attach the fan mounting bracket to the box.
140 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Ceiling Fan

C D
Shown cutaway
Joist
Brace
Hanging
pin
Mounting bracket Wallboard

Canopy
Rod hanger pipe
VARIATION: If the joists are inaccessible from above, remove Run the wires from the top of the fan motor through the Hang the motor assembly by the hook on the mounting
the old box and install an adjustable ceiling fan brace canopy and then through the rod hanger pipe. Slide the rod bracket. Connect the wires according to manufacturer’s
through the rough opening in the ceiling. Insert the fan hanger pipe through the canopy and attach the pipe to the directions, using wire connectors to join the fixture wires to
brace through the hole, adjust until it fits tightly between the motor collar using the included hanging pin. Tighten the the circuit wires in the box. Gather the wires together and
joists, then attach the box with the included hardware. Make mounting screws firmly. tuck them inside the fan canopy. Lift the canopy and attach
sure the lip of the box is flush with the ceiling wallboard it to the mounting bracket.
before attaching the mounting bracket.
E F
Wires to fan
motor and light
Remote-
control
receiver
Fan housing
Wires to
house
circuit
REMOTE CONTROL VARIATION: To install a remote control, fit Attach the fan blades one at a time with the included hard- Connect the wiring for the fan’s light fixture according to the
the receiver inside the fan canopy. Follow the manufacturer’s ware. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. manufacturer’s directions. Tuck all wires into the switch hous-
wiring diagram to wire the unit. The receiver has a set of ing and attach the fixture. Installlight bulbs and globes.
three wires that connects to the corresponding wires from the Restore power and test the fan. If the fan vibrates excessively,
fan motor and lights, and another set that connects to the check the manufacturer’s documentation to adjust the bal-
two circuit wires from the electrical box. ance. If the fan doesn’t run at all, turn off the power and
check the wiring connections.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Ceiling Fan 141

Installing Telephone Lines & Structured Media Systems

Although the telephone company owns the wires that bring telephone
service to your house, you’re allowed to add wiring to any part of the
telephone system that extends past the company’s demarcation point.
The demarcation point, or NID (network interface device), can be
located in a basement or utility area, or mounted to the outside of your SECOND FLOOR
house. In older homes, a demarcation jack may be mounted on a base-
board in a home’s living quarters.
Older phone systems sometimes use a continuous loop method, in
which the various phone jacks are installed along a single loop of wire
running through the house. Although it’s easier to install, a continuous
loop system is less reliable, since a single problem in the wire can ren-
der all the jacks inoperable.
If your phone system is relatively new, there will probably be a wire Jacks
distribution hub, junction box, or structured media system (pages 144
to 145) that feeds individual lines running to the various phone jacks in
your house. This method of wiring phones is sometimes called the
home-run method. It’s the best way to wire phones, because if one line
becomes damaged, the other jacks will still operate. If your system has
a distribution hub, you can easily add a new jack by running new wires Jacks
from the hub.
A structured media system is a low-voltage wiring system that allows FIRST FLOOR
you to take incoming phone and video lines and distribute them to var- Service
entrance
ious location throughout your home. This allows you to have separate Distribution center
lines for the phone, fax, and Internet, as well as cable and satellite TV.
The system also allows you to network computers, as well as quickly
and easily change which phone line runs to which phone jack.
If you are planning to install a structured media system, diagram each
level of your house and mark which phone, data, and cable lines will Adding Phone Lines for
run to which jacks. If you to need install additional cable or upgrade
your wiring to category 5e cable (recommended for structured media Safety & Convenience
systems), see pages 127 to 129 for running cable inside finished walls
and ceilings. Installing at least one phone line in each room will afford
Because the voltage running through telephone wires is very low, your family flexibility, safety, and convenience.
there’s little danger of shock when working on the wiring. Still, it’s best A bathroom is an especially good place for a phone.
not to work in wet conditions when working with any wiring. Also, Because wet surfaces make bathrooms likely places for
don’t work on your phone system if you wear a cardiac pacemaker, accidents, a bathroom phone can be an important safety
because the mild electrical currents in phone lines can interfere with feature. It enables a person to call for assistance, should he
the device. or she fall while home alone.
A guest suite can also benefit from additional phone
lines; your visitors will appreciate the convenience and
Tools: Screwdriver, wire cutter. security. And because guest rooms often serve many dif-
ferent functions for the family, having phone lines in place
Materials: Modular jack, junction box. makes them more versatile.
Keep in mind that the small buttons on standard tele-
phones can be difficult to read and use, so consider
installing large-button phones instead.
142 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Telephone & Media Wiring

Installing a Modular Jack
A B
Disconnect the individual wires from the terminals on the jack. Clip the bare copper ends of Remove the casing from the connection block on the new modular jack and feed the phone
the wires, using a crimper tool or wire cutter. wires through the back of the base piece. Force each colored wire into one of the slots on the
terminal block that has the same color. About 1⁄2" of wire should extend through the slot.
C
Connecting Telephone Wires
The red terminal will accept:
• a red wire
• a blue wire
• a blue wire with white stripe
The green terminal will accept:
• a green wire
• a white wire with blue stripe
The yellow terminal will accept:
• a yellow wire
• an orange wire
• an orange wire with white stripe
The black terminal will accept:
• a black wire
• a white wire with orange stripe
If there are extra wires (usually green and
Screw the connection block to the wall with the screw Flush-mounted variation: Install a retro-fit gang box (see white), leave them unconnected and tuck
included with the jack. Snap the cover onto the new jack, page 144). Pull the cable through the coverplate, then them into the jack. These wires can be used
and test to make sure it works. mount the coverplate to the gang box with the screws pro- to connect additional phone lines.
vided. Wire an RJ45 jack, following the manufacturer’s
wiring assignment, then snap the jack into the coverplate.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Telephone & Media Wiring 143

Preparing Multimedia Outlets
Ear
In new construction, use extension brackets to install multimedia outlets next to existing elec- For retrofit installations, use plastic retrofit boxes (hollow-backed or double-gang). Cut a
trical receptacles. Fit the bracket over the receptacle, and fasten it to the stud with screws, hole in the wallboard and insert the box, then turn the mounting screws until the ears clamp
then install the new outlet box. Use standard double-gang boxes or hollow-backed boxes (see snugly to the back of the wallboard (inset). Route all wiring to the boxes, leaving at least 12"
photo, right) for single outlets; this prevents bending and twisting that can damage the of slack at each box.
wiring. Mount individual outlet boxes 12" from the floor, measured to the box center.
Installing a Structured Media System

A B Cables out to
C
wall outlets
Mount the enclosure box horizontally between two wall Strip 3" of sheathing from the category 5e cable, then strip To terminate the cable wires to the jacks at the wall outlets,
studs, fastening in place with the enclosed screws. Run wires ⁄4" from the end of each wire of the four twisted pairs.
1
follow the prescribed color code. (The jacks used here are
and cables through the knockout holes in the box. Align the Connect the wires to the proper slots of the Category 5e labeled 568A and B, but the system requires following code
mounting pins on the media system panel with the holes in Module, following the color codes. Start at the blue position 568A.) Push the wires into the appropriate slots, using the
the enclosure box. Press the panel into the box, and push in on the 4-pair termination block, and always begin with the plastic tool. Install the coverplate (see page 143) and snap
the pin plungers to secure it in place. white wire of each pair. Use the plastic tool to terminate the the flush-mount jack in place.
wires at their designated slots. Trim any excess wire, using a
wire cutter. Terminate the remaining wires to the module.
144 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Telephone & Media Wiring

D E
Cable from NID or
demarcation point
Run Category 3 or 5 cable from the NID or demarcation point (see page 142) to the panel. Connect patch cords from the ports on the Category 5e Module to the appropriate ports on
Strip the cables and run three pairs of wires directly to the “From Demarcation” block, plac- the distribution module or to an alternative media panel. Follow your wiring diagrams when
ing the wires in the matching colored slots. Run the fourth set of wires to the vertical block connecting the cords. Affix the wiring chart near the panel for easy reference.
directly above the “From Demarcation” block, and place them in the slots labeled “Line in.”
Run wires from the “Line out” slots to the last two slots on the “From Demarcation” block.
(This provides a dedicated security jack that gives override protection to a phone line in case
of an emergency.)
F G
A structured media system can also receive and distribute video services, such as cable tele- Run coaxial cable from the incoming cable television service or antenna to the “In” port on
vision and a TV antenna. Run coaxial cable and install new cable television jacks if needed, the video splitter. Attach cables from the wall outlets to any of the ports labeled “Out,” and
following the same procedures as running phone cable. place 75 Ohm termination caps on the unused ports to reduce signal distortion.
Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Wiring/ Telephone & Media Wiring 145

D OORS
W I N D O W
&
S
Selecting Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . . 148

Installing a Prehung Interior Door. . . . 150
Framing & Installing French Doors . . . 152
Installing a Pocket Door . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Installing an Attic Access Ladder . . . . . 158
Removing Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . 162
Installing an Entry Door . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Installing a Patio Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Installing Replacement Inserts. . . . . . . 174
Installing New Windows. . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Installing a Garden Window . . . . . . . . 180
Installing a Bay Window . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Installing Glass Block Windows. . . . . . 194
Installing a Tubular Skylight . . . . . . . . 198
Installing a Skylight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Patching Exterior Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Doors & Windows
Selecting Doors & Windows

Because doors and windows serve very basic purposes, con- windows you select may dictate the general style of hardware
sider your options carefully before making any purchases you install; hardware types are discussed below. As a general
(some designs are far from universal). Lever door handles and rule, installing hardware at a maximum height of 44" to 48"
remote or slide-bolt locks are good examples of universal makes it easy to use for people of various heights.
design: They make opening a door easier for a person carrying As with doors, your design considerations will affect which
packages as well as for someone lacking manual dexterity. window styles you select; consider your family’s situation
Hardware is also an important consideration, as it alone can before purchasing. Keep in mind the size and strength of
make the difference between a door that serves as a passage- those who will operate the windows, and remember that the
way and one that acts only as a barrier. The type of doors or hardware must be reachable by those users.
Hinged Doors Hinged-door Hardware

A hinged door requires swing space equal Select lever handles; they require less exacting
to the width of the door plus 18" to 24" of hand placement and are easier to use than
clear space on the latch side for maneuver- knobs or pulls. Locks vary widely. For exterior
ing (see page 55). Consider the swing locks, a keyless entry system is an ideal way to
direction, available swing space, and eliminate fumbling with keys in cold weather.
whether the swing of the door will inter- For interior locks, slide bolts typically are pre-
rupt the flow of traffic in a hallway. ferred over standard deadbolts, because they
Many experts recommend that hinged are easier to operate. Avoid chain locks, which
bathroom doors swing outward, so a person are difficult to use.
who has fallen inside the bathroom cannot
block the door.
Choose entry doors with low thresholds or
no thresholds. The front edge of the
threshold should be no more than 1⁄4" high Remote locks and other keyless entry systems
if it’s square, 1⁄2" high if it’s beveled. improve the safety and convenience of entry doors.
latches or locks are unnecessary. As with a

standard hinged door, consider the door’s
Adding lever door handles is an easy way to make swing space and whether the swing will
your doors more accessible. interrupt traffic flow.
Swing- You can gain space in all hinged-door open- Sliding Glass Doors
clear
ings by installing swing-clear hinges. These Sliding doors present several problems.
hinge
have L-shaped leaves that allow the door to Glass doors are dangerous to some because
swing away from the jamb, increasing the clear they can appear to be open when they
opening by the thickness of the door. aren’t. They can be difficult to operate from
a seated position, and as doors age and dirt
Swinging Doors accumulates in the tracks, they become
A swinging door with no latch requires swing even more difficult to open. Finally, thresh-
space on both sides. Because they require no olds on sliding doors typically are high,
Swing-clear hinges increase the clear openings of hardware to open and close, swinging doors which creates barriers for walkers and
doorways; they are mounted like standard hinges. may be a good option in situations where wheelchairs.
148 Doors & Windows/ Universal Design

Pocket Doors
Perhaps the best alternative to a hinged or D-pull
sliding door is a pocket door. It saves space, handle
requires no threshold, and can be equipped 11⁄2"
with hardware that is easy to use. Pocket
doors require special framing considera-
tions; because the door slides into the wall,
the rough opening is roughly twice the
width of a standard door opening. Door 11⁄2"
units can be custom-built or purchased as
prehung units (see illustration at right, and
pages 155 to 157).
Standard recessed hardware for pocket
doors is difficult to use, so install D-pulls
instead. Mount the pulls 11⁄2" from the
edge of the door (to provide room for fin-
gers when the door is closed). Also, install
a stop at the back of the frame, so the door
stops 11⁄2" short of the D-pull (to provide
room for fingers when the door is open)
(see the drawings at far right). Keep in
mind that this design reduces the width of
Stop
the door opening by 3". An alternative is 32" min.
Pocket doors are available as prehung units that mount block
to build recesses into the wall that accept into framed openings. Mount 11⁄2" D-pull or lever handles
the D-pulls, so the door is flush with the leaving 11⁄2" of clearance. Make sure all doors have a 32" 48" min.
jamb when fully opened. (min.) clear opening and a 48"-deep approach space.
Casement Windows
Casement windows offer many attractive
Tandem latches, which operate multi-
design features. Well-built models are easy to
ple locks on a window with one motion,
operate, and some come equipped with tan-
may be optional on some models; they
dem latches or single-lever locking systems.
simplify use considerably. Where possi-
Unfortunately, casement windows do not
ble, opt for larger handles or automatic
accept window air conditioners.
openers. For other types of hardware,
Horizontal Sliding Sash investigate adapters that make windows
Many horizontal sliding sash windows have easier to operate.
improved in recent years. Some manufacturers
Vertical Sliding Sash
now produce models with quality sliding
Vertical sliding sash windows may be
mechanisms and offset hardware. These win-
good options due to their availability
dows can accept air conditioners and screens.
and affordability, and they accept air
Window Hardware conditioners and screens. High-quality
Although the type of window you select models are easy to operate and many
Single-lever latches and automatic openers make determines the hardware that is available, keep come with convenient features, such as
casement windows easier to operate. the following guidelines in mind. tilt-in design for easy cleaning.
Doors & Windows/ Universal Design 149

Doors & Windows
Installing a Prehung Interior Door

Prehung doors come as single units with the door already hung on
hinges attached to a factory-built frame. To secure the unit during
shipping, most prehung doors are nailed shut with a couple of duplex
nails driven through the jambs and into the door edge. These nails
must be removed before you install the door.
Top The key to installing doors is to plumb and fasten the hinge-side
jamb jamb first. After that’s in place, you can position the top and latch-side
jambs by checking the reveal—the gap between the closed door and
the jamb.
Standard prehung doors have 41⁄2"-wide jambs and are sized to fit
walls with 2 × 4 construction and 1⁄2" wallboard. If you have thicker
walls, you can special-order doors to match, or you can add jamb
Hinge-side extensions to standard-size doors (see TIP below).
jamb
Tools: 4-ft. level, nail set, handsaw.

Latch-
side Materials: Prehung door unit, wood shims, 8d casing nails.
jamb
1"-thick jamb
extension
TIP: If your walls are built with 2 × 6 studs, extend the jambs by attaching 1"-thick wood
strips to the jamb edges on both sides. Use glue and 4d casing nails to attach these exten-
sions to the jambs.
150 Doors & Windows/ Interior Door

Installing a Prehung Interior Door
A B C
Set the door unit into the framed opening so the jamb edges Starting near the top hinge, insert pairs of shims driven Anchor the hinge-side jamb with 8d casing nails driven
are flush with the wall surfaces and the unit is centered from from opposite directions into the gap between the framing through the jamb and shims and into the framing. Drive
side to side. Using a level, adjust the unit so the hinge-side and the jamb, sliding the shims in until they are snug. Check nails only at the shim locations.
jamb is plumb. the jamb to make sure it remains plumb and does not bow
inward. Install shims near each hinge.
D E
Reveal
Insert pairs of shims into the gap between the framing members and the top jamb and Set all nails below the surface of the wood with a nail set, then cut off the shims flush with
latch-side jamb, aligning them roughly with the hinge-side shims. With the door closed, the wall surface, using a handsaw or utility knife. Hold the saw vertically to prevent damage
adjust the shims so the reveal is 1⁄16" to 1⁄8" wide. Drive casing nails through the jambs and to the door jamb or wall. See pages 270 to 271 to install the door casing.
shims and into the framing members.
Doors & Windows/ Interior Door 151

Doors & Windows
Framing & Installing French Doors

Traditionally, French doors open onto the French doors are made up of two separate They are generally available only in wood, with
patio or lush garden of a backyard. But you doors, hinged on opposing jambs of a doorway. a variety of designs and styles to choose from.
can create stylish entrances inside your home The doors swing out from the center of the Before purchasing a prehung French door
by bringing French doors to formal dining doorway and into or out from a room. Like unit, determine the size of doors you will need.
rooms, sitting rooms or dens, and master most doors, French doors are typically sold in If you are planning to install the doors in an
suites. prehung units, but are also available separately. existing doorway, measure the dimensions of
the rough opening, from the unfinished fram-
ing members, then order the unit to size—the
manufacturer or retailer will help you select the
proper unit.
You can also pick the prehung unit first, then
alter an existing opening to accommodate it
(as shown in this project). In this case, build
the rough opening a little larger than the
actual dimensions of the doors to accommo-
date the jambs. Prehung units typically require
adding 1" to the width and 1⁄2" to the height.
If the doorway will be in a load-bearing wall,
you will need to make temporary supports (see
pages 36 to 39), and install an appropriately
sized header. Sizing the header (depth) is criti-
cal: it’s based on the length of the header, the
material it’s made from, and the weight of the
load it must support. For actual requirements,
consult your local building department.
When installing French doors, it is impor-
tant to have consistent reveals between the two
doors and between the top of the doors and
the head jamb. This allows the doors to close
properly and prevents the hinges from binding.
Tools: Tape measure, circular saw, 4-ft.

level, hammer, handsaw, drill, utility
knife, nail set.
Materials: Prehung French door unit,
2 × 4 and 2 × 6 lumber, 1⁄2" plywood,
10d & 16d common nails, wood shims,
8d finish nails.
152 Doors & Windows/ French Doors

Framing & Installing French Doors
A
Old studs marked New king
for cripple studs stud location
Use existing
framing where
Wallboard possible Wallboard
cut back Old header New cut back
for access and jack stud header for access
to be removed location
New jack
stud location
Shut off power and water to the area. Remove the wall surfaces from both sides of the wall align with the layout marks. Toenail the king stud to the bottom plate with 10d common
(see pages 27 to 31), leaving one stud bay open on each side of the new rough opening. Also nails; check for plumb, then toenail to the top plate to secure. Finally, mark both the bottom
remove or reroute any wiring, plumbing, or ductwork. Lay out the new rough opening, mark- and top of the new header on one king stud, then use a level to extend the lines across the
ing the locations of all new jack and king studs on both the top and bottom plates. Where intermediate studs to the opposite king stud. If using existing framing, measure and mark
practical, use existing framing members. To install a new king stud, cut a stud to size and from the existing jack stud.
B C D
New
cripple
studs
Existing
framing
Cut the intermediate studs at the reference marks for the top To install a jack stud, cut the stud to fit between the bottom Build the header to size (see page 41 and page 54) and
of the header, using a reciprocating saw. Pry the studs away plate and the bottom of the header, as marked on the king install, fastening it to the jack studs, king studs, and cripple
from the bottom plates and remove—the remaining top stud. Align it at the mark against the king stud, then fasten studs, using 16d common nails. Use a handsaw to cut
pieces will be used as cripple studs. it in place with 10d common nails driven every 12". through the bottom plate so it ends flush with the inside faces
of the jack studs. Remove the cutout portion.
Doors & Windows/ French Doors 153

Doors & Windows
Framing & Installing French Doors (cont.)
E F G
Finish the walls (for wallboard installation, see pages 224 to Using a level, adjust the unit to plumb one of the side jambs. Working down along the jamb, install shims near each hinge
233) before installing the doors. Set the prehung door unit into Starting near the top of the door, insert pairs of shims driven and near the floor. Make sure the jamb is plumb, then
the framed opening so the jamb edges are flush with the fin- from opposite directions into the gap between the framing anchor it with 8d finish nails driven through the jamb and
ished wall surfaces and the unit is centered from side to side. and the jamb, sliding the shims until they are snug. Check the shims and into the framing. Leave the nail heads partially
jamb to make sure it remains plumb and does not bow inward. protruding so the jamb can be readjusted later if necessary.
H I J
Reveal
Install shims at the other side jamb, aligning them roughly Shim the gap between the header and the head jamb to cre- Check all the reveals. Drive all the nails fully, then set them
with the shims of the first jamb. With the doors closed, adjust ate a consistent reveal along the top when the doors are below the surface of the wood with a nail set. Cut off the
the shims so the reveal between the doors is even and the closed. Insert pairs of shims every 12". Drive 8d finish nails shims flush with the wall surface, using a handsaw or utility
tops of the doors are aligned. through the jambs and shims and into the framing mem- knife. Hold the saw vertically to prevent damage to the door
bers. jamb or wall. Install the door casing (see pages 270 to 271).
154 Doors & Windows/ French Doors

Installing a Pocket Door
Pocket doors are a space-saving alternative to traditional hinged interior Tools: Tape measure, circular saw, hammer, nail set, screw-
doors. Swinging doors can monopolize up to 16 sq. ft. of floor space in driver, level, drill, handsaw, hacksaw, wallboard tools.
a room, which is why pocket doors are a perfect choice for tight spaces,
like small bathrooms. Installed in pairs, pocket doors can divide large Materials: 2 × 4 lumber, 16d, 8d, & 6d common nails, pocket
rooms into more intimate spaces and can still be opened to use the door frame kit, door, 11⁄4" wallboard screws, wallboard materi-
als, manufactured pocket door jambs (or build jambs from 1 x
entire area. material), 8d & 6d finish nails, 11⁄2" wood screws, door casing.
Pocket door hardware kits generally are universal and can be adapted
for almost any interior door. In this project, the frame kit includes an
adjustable track, steel-clad split studs, and all the required hanging
hardware. The latch hardware,
jambs, and the door itself are all
sold separately. Pocket door
frames can also be purchased as
Track
preassembled units that can be header
easily installed into a rough Door
track
opening.
Framing and installing a
Track
pocket door is not difficult in trim board
new construction or a major
remodel. But retrofitting a
pocket door in place of a
standard door, or installing one
in a wall without an existing
door, is a major project that
involves removing the wall
material, framing the new Split
opening, installing and hanging studs
the door, and refinishing the
wall. Hidden utilities, such as Tri-
wiring, plumbing, and heating wheeled
ducts, must be rerouted if hanger
encountered. Door
The rough opening for a bracket
pocket door is at least twice
the width of a standard door
opening. If you are installing Split
the pocket door in a non- Bumper studs
load-bearing wall, see pages 54 to
56 to learn how to frame the opening. If Door
the wall is load-bearing, you will need to install an guide
appropriately sized header (see page 41).
Because pocket doors are easy to open and close and require no
threshold, they offer increased accessibility for wheelchair or walker
users, provided the handles are easy to use. If you are installing a pocket
door for this purpose, be aware that standard latch hardware may be
difficult to use for some individuals. Page 148 includes some handle
variations for easier accessibility. Wallboard ShowN Cutaway
Doors & Windows/ Pocket Door 155

Doors & Windows
Installing a Pocket Door
A B C
13⁄8"
Track
Track End
header bracket
Track
header
Trim boards
Prepare the project area and frame the rough opening (see Remove the adjustable end bracket from the overhead door Set the end brackets of the track on the nails in the jack studs.
pages 54 to 56) to the manufacturer’s recommended dimen- track. Cut the wooden track header at the mark that Adjust the track to level and set the nails. Then drive 8d com-
sions. Measuring from the floor, mark each jack stud at the matches your door size. Turn the track over and cut the metal mon nails through the remaining holes in the end brackets.
height of the door plus 3⁄4" to 11⁄2" (depending on the door track 13⁄8" shorter than the wooden track header, using a
clearance above the floor) for the overhead door track. Drive hacksaw (top). Replace the end bracket. Cut the side trim
a nail into each jack stud, centered on the mark. Leave about boards along the marks corresponding to your door size,
1
⁄8" of the nail protruding. being careful not to cut the metal track (bottom).
D E F
Snap chalk lines on the floor across the opening, even with Center the other split stud pair in the “pocket” and fasten it Install drywall over the pocket to the edge of the opening (see
the sides of the rough opening. Tap floor plate spacers into to the track header. Plumb the split studs again and attach pages 224 to 233). You may want to leave the wallboard off
the bottom ends of each pair of steel-clad split studs. Butt one them to the floor with 8d common nails or 2" screws driven one side of the wall to allow for door adjustment. Do not fin-
split-stud pair against the door track trim board, check it for through the spacer plates. ish the wallboard until the door has been completely
plumb, and fasten it to the track header with 6d common installed and adjusted. Use 11⁄4" wallboard screws, which will
nails. not protrude into the pocket.
156 Doors & Windows/ Pocket Door

G H I
Tri-wheeled
hanger
Lock arm
Paint or stain the door as desired. When the door has dried, Slide two tri-wheeled hangers into the overhead door track. Cut the strike-side jamb to length and width. Fasten it to the
attach two door brackets to the top of the door, using the Set the door in the frame, aligning the hangers with the door jack stud, using 8d finish nails, shimming the jamb to plumb
included screws driven through pilot holes. Install the rubber brackets. Then raise the door and press each hanger into the as necessary. Close the door and adjust the hanger nuts to
bumper to the rear edge of the door with its included screw. door bracket until it snaps into place. Close the lock arm over fine-tune the door height so the door is parallel with the
the hanger. jamb from top to bottom.
J K L
3
⁄16" 3
⁄16"
Measure and cut the split jambs to size. Fasten each split Measure and cut the split head jambs to size. Use 11⁄2" wood Install the included door guides on both sides of the door
jamb to the front edge of the split studs, using 8d finish nails. screws driven through countersunk pilot holes to attach the near the floor at the mouth of the pocket. Install the latch
Maintain 3⁄16" clearance on both sides of the door. If necessary, head jamb on the side that has access to the lock arm of the hardware according to the manufacturer’s directions. Finish
shim between the bumper and door until the door is flush hangers, to allow for easy removal of the door. Attach the the wallboard and install casing around the door (see pages
with the jambs when open. other head jamb using 6d finish nails. Maintain 3⁄16" clearance 270 to 271). Fill all nail holes, then paint or stain the jambs
on each side of the door. and casing as desired.
Doors & Windows/ Pocket Door 157

Doors & Windows
Installing an Attic Access Ladder

Pull-down attic ladders provide instant access call for a more sturdy model, such as an alu-
to your attic space, making it easy to store and minum ladder, or disappearing staircase. Tools: Tape measure, framing square,
retrieve items without squeezing through a It’s important that the ladder you install is pencil, wallboard saw, reciprocating
tight access panel. You can replace an existing the proper size for your ceiling height. Never saw, drill and bits, hammer, hacksaw.
access panel with a ladder kit, or install the install one that is shorter than your ceiling Materials: Attic access ladder kit, stiff
ladder in a more convenient location. height. Compare units for weight load, incline wire, 2 × lumber (for framing and tem-
When purchasing an access ladder, consider angle and quality of materials when choosing porary supports), 3" deck screws, 2" and
the amount of use it will get. A basic wooden the right ladder for your home. Although 11⁄4" wallboard screws, casing, 1 × 4
ladder system may be sufficient for occasional most attic ladders are installed the same way, lumber (for temporary ledgers).
use a few times a year. More frequent use may always follow the manufacturer’s directions.
Joist
direction
Before purchasing an attic access ladder, examine your

home’s framing in the attic. If your roof is framed with
trusses, make sure to purchase a ladder unit that will fit
between the trusses; never cut or alter the trusses.
Standard rafter-and-joist framing allows you the option to

cut one of the joists to install a wider ladder unit. If you have
When positioning your attic access, make sure there is enough clearance for the ladder to swing down unobstructed, as to cut a joist, build temporary supports to support the joist
well as adequate landing space. In the attic, make sure the space is clear of wiring, pipes, or other obstructions. To ease fram- during the project, then frame in permanent headers to
ing and installation, orient the door opening parallel to the ceiling joists, if possible. carry the cut joist ends (see pages 36 to 39).
158 Doors & Windows/ Attic Ladder

Installing an Attic Access Ladder
A B
Mark the approximate location for the attic access door on the ceiling. Drill a hole at one of If the width of your ladder unit requires that you cut a joist, build temporary supports in the
the corners and push the end of a stiff wire up into the attic. In the attic, locate the wire and room below to support each end of the cut joist to prevent damage to your ceiling (see pages
clear away insulation in the area. Using the dimensions provided by the manufacturer, mark 36 to 39). Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the joist at both end marks, then remove
the rough opening across the framing members, using one of the existing joists as one side the cut piece. CAUTION: Do not stand on the cut joist.
of the frame. Add 3" (the width of two 2 ×s) to the rough opening length dimension to allow
for the headers.
C D
Cut two headers to fit between the joists using 2 × lumber the same size as your ceiling joists. Cut a piece of 2 × lumber to the length of the rough opening to form the other side of the
Position the headers perpendicular to the joists, butting them against the cut joists. Make sure frame. Square the corners and attach the side piece to each header with three 3" deck screws.
the corners are square and attach the headers with three 3" deck screws into each joist.
Doors & Windows/ Attic Ladder 159

Doors & Windows
Installing an Attic Access Ladder (cont.)
E F G
Cut the rough opening in the ceiling, using a wallboard saw. Fasten the edges of the wallboard to the rough open- If your ladder does not include support clips, attach
Use the rough opening frame to guide your saw blade. ing frame using 11⁄4" wallboard screws spaced every 8". 1 × 4 boards at both ends of the opening, slightly overlap-
Prepare the ladder’s temporary support clips accord- ping the edges, to act as ledgers to support the unit while
ing to the manufacturer’s directions. fastening.
H I
With a helper, lift the unit through the opening and rest it on the ledgers. Make sure the unit Attach the ladder unit to the rough framing with 10d nails or 2" screws driven through holes
is square in the frame and the door is flush with the ceiling surface. Shim the unit as needed. in the corner brackets and hinge plates. Continue fastening the unit to the frame, driving
NOTE: Do not stand on the unit until it is firmly attached to the framing. screws or nails through each side of the ladder frame into the rough frame. Remove tempo-
rary ledgers or support clips when complete.
160 Doors & Windows/ Attic Ladder

J K
Fully extend the ladder and test-fit the adjustable feet on the rails. Adjust the feet so there are
no gaps in the hinges and the feet are flush with the floor. Drill through the rails using a rec-
ommended-size bit and attach the adjustable feet with included nuts, washers, and bolts.
A minus 3"
A
A
Open the ladder, keeping the lower section folded back. With the tape measure along the top
of the rail, measure the distance from the end of the middle section to the floor (A) on each rail.
Subtract 3" and mark the distances on the right and left rails of the third section. Use a
square to mark a cutting line across the rails. Place a support under the lower section and Install casing around the edges to cover the gap between the ceiling wallboard and the lad-
trim along the cutting line with a hacksaw. (For wooden ladders see manufacturer’s directions.) der frame (pages 270 to 271). Leave a 3⁄8" clearance between the door panel and the casing.
Doors & Windows/ Attic Ladder 161

Doors & Windows
Masking tape
used to keep
windows from
shattering
Removing Doors & Windows

If your remodeling project requires removing old doors and windows,
do not start this work until all the preparation work is finished and the
interior wall surfaces and trim have been removed. You will need to
close up the wall openings as soon as possible, so make sure you have
all the necessary tools, framing lumber, and new window or door units
on hand before starting the final stages of demolition. Be prepared to
finish the work as quickly as possible.
Doors and windows are removed using the same basic procedures. In
many cases, old units can be salvaged for resale or later use, so use care
when removing them.
Tools: Utility knife, flat pry bar, screwdriver, reciprocating saw.

Materials: Masking tape, plywood sheets, screws.
Tip: If you can’t fill the wall openings immediately, cover the openings with scrap pieces of
plywood screwed to the framing members. Staple plastic sheeting to the outside of the open-
ings to prevent moisture damage.
162 Doors & Windows/ Removal

Removing Doors
A B C
Using a pry bar and hammer, gently remove the interior Cut away the old caulk between the exterior siding and the Use a flat pry bar or a cat’s paw to remove the casing nails
door trim. Save the trim to use after the new door is installed. brick molding on the door frame, using a utility knife. securing the door jambs to the framing. Cut stubborn nails
with a reciprocating saw (see step B, below). Remove the door
from the opening.
Removing Windows
A B
Nailing flange
Carefully pry off the interior trim around the window frame. Cut through the nails holding the window jambs to the fram- VA R I AT I O N : For windows and doors attached with nail-
For double-hung windows with sash weights, remove the ing members, using a reciprocating saw. Place tape over the ing flanges, cut or pry loose the siding material, then remove
weights by cutting the cords and pulling the weights from window panes to prevent shattering, then remove the win- the nails holding the unit to the sheathing. See pages 32 to
the weight pockets near the bottoms of the side jambs. dow unit from the opening. 35 for more information on removing siding.
Doors & Windows/ Removal 163

Doors & Windows
Installing an Entry Door

Prehung entry doors come in many styles, but most are installed using
the same basic methods. Because entry doors are very heavy—some
large units weigh several hundred pounds—make sure you have help
for this project.
To speed your work, complete the interior surface removal (see pages
27 to 31) and framing work (see pages 57 to 60) in advance.
In this installation project, the new door is set into the framed open-
ing, and the siding is marked and then cut to accept the door molding.
See pages 32 to 35 for more information on cutting or removing exte-
rior wall surfaces in preparation for a new door or window.
Before installing the door, make sure you have all the necessary hard-
ware. Protect the door against the weather by painting or staining it
and by adding a storm door, if desired.
Tools: Aviation snips, 4-ft. level, circular saw, wood chisel,

stapler, caulk gun, nail set, drill, handsaw.
Materials: Door unit, tapered wood shims, building paper, drip
edge, paintable silicone caulk, fiberglass insulation, 10d galva-
nized casing nails.
Installing an Entry Door

A B C
Brick
molding
Remove the door unit from its packing. Do not remove the Test-fit the door unit, centering it within the rough opening. Trace an outline of the brick molding onto the siding, then
retaining brackets that hold the door closed. Check to make sure door is plumb. If necessary, shim under- remove the door unit and set it aside.
neath the side door jambs until the door is plumb and level.
164 Doors & Windows/ Ent r y Door

D E F
Cut the siding along the outline, just down to the sheathing, Finish the cuts at the corners with a sharp wood chisel or a Slide 8"-wide strips of building paper between the siding and
using a circular saw. You may want to use a 1 × 4 to provide jigsaw. sheathing at the top and sides of the opening, to shield the
a flat base for the saw (see pages 34 to 35). Stop just short of framing members from moisture. Wrap the paper around
the corners to prevent damage to the siding that will remain. the framing members and staple it in place.
G H
Drip edge
Jack stud
To provide an added moisture barrier, cut a piece of drip edge to fit the width of the rough Apply several thick beads of silicone caulk to the subfloor at the bottom of the door opening.
opening, then slide it between the siding and the building paper at the top of the opening. Also apply silicone caulk over the building paper on the front (outside) edges of the jack studs
Do not nail the drip edge. and header.
Doors & Windows/ Ent r y Door 165

Doors & Windows
Installing an Entry Door (cont.)
I J CROSS SECTION
Brick
molding
Sheathing
Door
jamb
Framing
member
Shims Door
Center the door unit in the rough opening, and push the brick molding tight against the From inside, place pairs of tapered shims together to form flat shims (left), and insert the
sheathing. Have a helper hold the door unit steady until it is nailed in place. shims into the gaps between the door jambs and framing members. Insert the shims at the
lockset and hinge locations and every 12" thereafter.
K L M
Make sure the door unit is plumb. Adjust the shims, if neces- From outside, drive 10d galvanized casing nails through the Remove the retaining brackets installed by the manufacturer,
sary, until the door is plumb and level. Fill the gaps between door jambs and into the framing members at each shim loca- then open and close the door to make sure it works properly.
the jambs and the framing members with loosely packed tion. If necessary, drill pilot holes to prevent splitting. Use a
fiberglass insulation. nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface.
166 Doors & Windows/ Ent r y Door

N O
Replace short hinge screws with longer screws (3" or 4") that extend through the door jamb Anchor the brick molding to the framing members with 10d galvanized casing nails driven
and into the wall studs. This helps resist door kick-ins. Tighten the screws snug, but avoid over- every 12". Use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface.
tightening them, which can pull the frame out of square.
P Q R
Adjust the door threshold to create a tight seal along the bot- Cut off the shims flush with the framing members, using a Apply paintable silicone caulk around the entire door unit.
tom of the door, following the manufacturer’s recommendations. handsaw or utility knife. Fill the nail holes with caulk if you plan on painting the area.
Be careful not to strip the adjusting screws. Finish the door and install the lockset as directed by the man-
ufacturer.
Doors & Windows/ Doors & Windows 167

Doors & Windows
Installing a Patio Door

For easy installation, buy a patio door with the door panels mounted in
a preassembled frame. Try to avoid patio doors sold with frame kits
that require complicated assembly.
Because patio doors have very long bottom sills and top jambs, they
are susceptible to bowing and warping. To avoid these problems, be
very careful to install the patio door so it is level and plumb, and to
anchor the unit securely to framing members. Yearly caulking and
touch-up painting help prevent moisture from warping the jambs.
In this installation project, the new door is set into the framed open-
ing and the siding is marked and then cut to accept the door molding.
See pages 32 to 35 for more information on cutting or removing exte-
rior wall surfaces in preparation for a new door or window.
Tools: Flat pry bar, 4-ft. level, circular saw, wood chisel, stapler,
caulk gun, drill, handsaw, nail set.
Materials: Door unit, tapered wood shims, drip edge, building
paper, paintable silicone caulk, 10d casing nails (galvanized and Purchase screen doors from the door manufacturer, if they are not included with your new
door unit. Most screen doors have spring-mounted rollers that fit into a narrow track on the
standard), 3" wood screws, fiberglass insulation, sill nosing.
outside of the patio door threshold.
168 Doors & Windows/ Patio Door

Tips for Installing Sliding Doors
Bottom rail
Remove heavy glass panels if you are installing the door without help. Reinstall the panels Adjust the bottom rollers after installation is complete. Remove the coverplate on the adjust-
after the frame has been placed in the rough opening and nailed at opposite corners. To ing screw, found on the inside edge of the bottom rail. Turn the screw in small increments
remove and install the panels, remove the stop rail found on the top jamb of the door unit. until the door rolls smoothly along the track without binding when it is opened and closed.
Tips for Installing French-style Patio Doors
Shown cutaway
for clarity
1
⁄8" gap
Provide extra support for door hinges by replacing the center mounting screw on each hinge Keep a uniform 1⁄8" gap between the door, side jambs, and top jamb to ensure that the doors
with a 3" wood screw. These long screws extend through the side jambs and deep into the will swing freely without binding. Check this gap frequently as you shim around the door unit.
framing members. For more information on shimming and fastening hinged entry doors, see pages 166 to 167.
Doors & Windows/ Patio Door 169

Doors & Windows
Installing a Patio Door
A B
Prepare the work area and remove the interior wall surfaces (see pages 27 to 31), then frame Test-fit the door unit, centering it within the rough opening. Check to make sure door is
the rough opening for the patio door (see pages 54 to 60). Remove the exterior surfaces inside plumb. If necessary, shim underneath the side jambs until the door is plumb and level. Have
the framed opening (see pages 32 to 35). a helper hold the door in place while you adjust it.
C D E Drip
edge
Trace the outline of the brick molding onto the siding, then Cut the siding along the outline, just down to the sheathing, To provide an added moisture barrier, cut a piece of drip
remove the door unit. using a circular saw. You may want to use a 1 × 4 to provide edge to fit the width of the rough opening, then slide it
a flat base for the saw (see pages 34 to 35). Stop just short of between the siding and the existing building paper at the top
the corners to prevent damage to the remaining siding. of the opening. Do not nail the drip edge.
Finish the cuts at the corners with a sharp wood chisel.

F G H
Slide 8"-wide strips of building paper between the siding and Apply several thick beads of silicone caulk to the subfloor at Apply silicone caulk around the front edge of the framing
the sheathing. Wrap the paper around the framing mem- the bottom of the door opening. members, where the siding meets the building paper.
bers, and staple it in place.
I J
Center the patio door unit in the rough opening so the brick molding is tight against the sheath- Check the door threshold to make sure it is level. If necessary, shim underneath the side jambs
ing. Have a helper hold the door unit from outside until it is shimmed and nailed in place. until the patio door unit is level.

Doors & Windows
Installing a Patio Door (cont.)
K L
If there are gaps between the threshold and subfloor, insert shims coated with caulk into the Place pairs of tapered shims together to form flat shims (see page 166). Insert the shims every
gaps, spaced every 6". Shims should be snug, but not so tight that they cause the threshold 12" into the gaps between the side jambs and the jack studs. For sliding doors, shim behind
to bow. Remove excess caulk immediately. the strike plate for the door latch.
M N O
Insert shims every 12" into the gap between the top jamb From outside, drive 10d galvanized casing nails, spaced every From inside, drive 10d casing nails through the door jambs
and the header. 12", through the brick molding and into the framing mem- and into the framing members at each shim location. Use a
bers. If necessary, drill pilot holes to prevent splitting. Use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface.
nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface.

P Q R
Sill
nosing
Remove one of the screws on the stop block found in the cen- Cut off the shims flush with the face of the framing members, Reinforce and seal the edge of the threshold by installing sill
ter of the threshold. Replace the screw with a 3" wood screw using a handsaw or utility knife. Fill the gaps around the nosing under the threshold and against the wall. Drill pilot
driven into the subfloor as an anchor. door jambs and beneath the threshold with loosely packed holes, and attach the nosing with 10d galvanized casing nails.
fiberglass insulation.
S T
Make sure the drip edge is tight against the top brick molding, then apply paintable silicone Caulk completely around the sill nosing, using your finger to press the caulk into any cracks.
caulk along the top of the drip edge and along the outside edge of the side brick moldings. As soon as the caulk is dry, paint the sill nosing. Finish the door and install the lockset as
Fill all exterior nail holes with caulk if you plan to paint over the area. directed by the manufacturer. See pages 224 to 233 to finish the walls, and pages 270 to 271
to trim the interior of the door.

Doors & Windows
Installing Replacement Inserts

Replacement inserts have made repairing old
and damaged windows obsolete. Fabricated
from wood or vinyl, they are designed to fit
within the existing window jamb. Because the
units are self-contained with their own sash
and jamb, the existing jamb does not need to
be perfectly square.
Before ordering replacement inserts, measure
for the new window dimensions carefully
(page 175 step A): many inserts are custom
made and are, therefore, not returnable.
Because installation procedures vary slightly,
always follow the manufacturer’s instructions
for your specific product. If your replacement
insert is banded around the center of the unit,
do not remove the banding until after the
insert is installed.
Tools: Putty knife, pry bar, utility

knife, screwdrivers, level, drill, safety
glasses, caulk gun.
Materials: Replacement insert win-
dow, wood shims, backer rod, exterior
paintable caulk.
Head jamb Parting

stop
Lead Paint
When removing old windows,
Houses built before 1980 may contain lead
score the paint along the inte- Side
paint. Contact your public health depart- jamb
rior stop and any interior
ment for information regarding lead paint
molding at the side and head
analysis and handling procedures. See
jambs, then remove carefully,
page 26 for more information on testing
using a stiff putty knife or a pry
and abatement.
bar. If the stop or molding is
difficult to remove, use a wood Blind
stop
chisel. Be careful not to dam-
age the blind stop. Make sure
to inspect the jambs, blind
stop, and sills for signs of water
damage. Repair or replace any
damaged or rotted members Sill
before installing the replace-
ment insert. Also, clean the Sash Interior
opening of any dirt, debris, or Interior view shown stop
excess old paint.
174 Doors & Windows/ Replacement Window Inserts

Installing Replacement Inserts
A B C
Take three measurements for both the height and width, To remove old windows, use a putty knife or pry bar to care- Install the sill angle at the bottom of the insert on the exte-
and use the smallest dimensions for ordering. For the fully pry the interior stop and molding at the jambs (see rior side. Attach the head expander to the top of the unit,
height, measure between the head jamb and sill at both illustration, page 174). Cut the sash cords and let the placing insulation in between the two. Apply a bead of caulk
side jambs and in the middle, and for the width, between weights fall into the weight cavity, then remove the lower along both the sill angle and the head expander.
the side jambs at the top, middle, and bottom. Make sure to sash. Next, remove the parting stop and upper sash; be
measure from the jambs and not the blind or parting stops. careful not to damage the blind stop. Finally, remove the
sash cord pulleys and fill the weight cavity with insulation.
D E F
Apply caulk to the inside edges of the blind stop, then lift the Remove the sash stops and place shims behind the screw On the interior side, replace any molding, then seal any gaps
insert into the opening with the bottom, inside edge on the mounting holes, located at the top-inside and bottom-out- between the molding and insert using an exterior-grade,
sill. Tilt the top into the opening until the entire unit is tight side jamb pockets. Drill pilot holes and install the installation paintable caulk. Fill large gaps with backer rope before
against the blind stop. Make sure the sill angle remains in screws. Recheck the insert for square and adjust the instal- caulking. Refinish wood frames as desired. On the exterior
place, flush with the sill. Check the insert for plumb, level, lation screws as needed, then snap the sash stops back in side, caulk any gaps between the insert frame and the blind
and square using a level and tape measure. Use wood shims place. If necessary, align the sash and jamb by tightening stop, sill, and brick molding. Also fill any old screw holes
to make adjustments. the adjustment screws located near the center of the lower from storm windows or screens.
sash side jambs. Finally, push the head expander against the
jamb and secure with the provided screws.
Doors & Windows/ Replacement Window Inserts 175

Doors & Windows
Installing New Windows
In this project, the new window is set into a framed opening, the unit
is plumbed and leveled, then the exterior siding is marked and cut to
Header
accept the exterior window molding. For more information on cutting
or removing exterior wall surfaces, see pages 32 to 35. If your house has
masonry walls, or if you are installing polymer-coated windows, you
may want to attach your window using masonry clips instead of nails
(see page 179).
Many windows must be custom-ordered several weeks in advance. To
save time, you can complete the interior framing before the window
Angled brace unit arrives, but be sure you have the exact dimensions of the window
unit before building the frame. Leave the exterior wall surface intact
until you have the window and accessories and are ready to install
them. If you’re installing a new window in an existing opening, remove
the old window (see pages 162 to 163), and make any necessary
changes to the framing.
Shims
Jambs Tools: Level, pry bar, reciprocating saw, circular saw, wood
chisel, stapler, nail set, handsaw, caulk gun.
Materials: Window unit, wood blocks (if needed), wood shims,
building paper, drip edge, 10d galvanized casing nails, 8d cas-
ing nails, fiberglass insulation, paintable silicone caulk.
Installing New Windows

A
Mullion
post
Insulation
Double
rough sill
Jack
stud
Cripple
studs
King
stud
Remove the exterior wall surface as directed on pages 32 to 35, then test-fit the window, cen-
tering it within the rough opening. Support the window with wood blocks and shims placed
under the side jambs and mullion post. Check to make sure the window is plumb and level,
and adjust the shims, if necessary.
176 Doors & Windows/ New Windows

B C D
Trace the outline of the brick molding on the siding. Remove Cut the siding along the outline, just down to the sheathing. Cut 8"-wide strips of building paper, and slide them between
the window after finishing the outline. For a round-top window, use a reciprocating saw held at a the siding and sheathing around the entire window opening.
low angle. Use a circular saw for straight cuts. You may want Wrap the paper around the framing members and staple it
to use a 1 × 4 to provide a flat base for the saw (see pages 34 in place.
to 35). Complete the cuts at the corners with a sharp chisel.
E F G
Cut a length of drip edge to fit over the top of the window, Insert the window in the opening, and push the brick mold- If the window is level, nail both bottom corners of the brick
then slide it between the siding and building paper. For ing tight against the sheathing. Check to make sure the molding with 10d galvanized casing nails. If it’s not level, nail
round-top windows, use flexible vinyl drip edge; for rectan- window is level. only at the higher of the two bottom corners, and have a
gular windows, use rigid metal drip edge (inset). helper shim under the lower corner from inside. When the
window is level, drive nails from the outside through the brick
molding and into the framing at the remaining corners.
Doors & Windows/ New Windows 177

Doors & Windows
Installing New Windows (cont.)
H I J
Mullion
post
Place pairs of shims together to form flat shims. From inside, Adjust the shims so they are snug, but not so tight that they Use a level to check the side jambs to make sure they do not
insert shims into the gaps between the jambs and framing cause the jambs to bow. On multiple-unit windows, make bow. If necessary, adjust the shims until the jambs are flat.
members, spaced every 12". On round-top windows, also sure the shims under the mullion post are tight. Open and close the window to make sure it works properly.
shim between the angled braces and the curved jamb.
K L
At each shim location, drill a pilot hole, then drive an 8d casing nail through the jamb and Fill the gaps between the window jambs and the framing members with loosely packed fiber-
shims. Be careful not to damage the window. Drive the nail heads below the surface with a glass insulation.
nail set.
178 Doors & Windows/ New Windows

M N A O
Trim the shims flush with the framing members, using a From outside, drive 10d galvanized casing nails, spaced every Apply paintable silicone caulk around the entire window
handsaw or utility knife. 12", through the brick moldings and into the framing members. unit. Fill the nail holes with caulk. See pages 224 to 233 to fin-
Drive all nail heads below the surface with a nail set. ish the interior walls, and pages 270 to 271 to trim the interior
of the window.
Installation Variation: Masonry Clips
Use metal masonry clips when the brick molding on a window cannot be nailed because it them with screws (above, right). NOTE: Masonry clips also can be used in ordinary lap siding
rests against a masonry or brick surface. Masonry clips hook into precut grooves in the win- installations if you want to avoid making nail holes in the smooth surface of the brick mold-
dow jambs (above, left) and are attached to the jambs with screws. After setting the window ings. For example, windows that are precoated with polymer-based paint can be installed with
unit in the rough opening, bend the masonry clips around the framing members and anchor masonry clips so the brick moldings are not punctured by nails.
Doors & Windows/ New Windows 179

Doors & Windows
Installing a Garden Window

Although often found in kitchens, a garden wall 16" to 24", garden windows add space to environments for plants or display areas for
window is an attractive option for nearly any a room, making it feel larger. The glass roof collectibles. Garden windows also typically
room in your home. Projecting out from the and box-like design make them ideal growing include front- or side-opening windows. These
allow for ventilation and are usually available
in either awning or casement style.
Home stores often stock garden windows in
several common sizes. However, it may
be difficult to locate a stock window that will
fit in your existing window rough opening. In
cases like this you must rebuild the rough
opening to the proper size. It may be worth
the added expense to custom-order your gar-
den window to fit into the existing rough
opening.
The large amount of glass in a garden win-
dow has a direct effect on the window’s energy
efficiency. When purchasing a garden window,
at a minimum, look for double-pane glass with
low-emissivity (low-E) coatings. More expen-
sive superefficient types of glass are available
for severely cold climates.
Installation methods for garden windows
vary by manufacturer. Some units include a
nailing flange that attaches to the framing and
holds the window against the house. Other
models hang on a separate mounting frame
that attaches to the outside of the house. In
this project, the garden window has a built-in
mounting sleeve that slides into the rough
opening and is attached directly to the rough
framing.
Tools: Tape measure, hammer, level,

framing square, circular saw, wood
chisel, stapler, drill and bits, caulking
gun, utility knife.
Materials: Garden window kit, wood
strips, 2 × 4s, shims, exterior trim, build-
ing paper, 3" screws, drip edge,
construction adhesive, 4d siding nails,
8d galvanized casing nails, interior trim,
paintable silicone caulk.
180 Doors & Windows/ Garden Window

Installing a Garden Window
A B
Prepare the project site and remove the interior and exterior trim, then remove the existing Check the rough opening measurements to verify the correct window sizing. The rough open-
window (see pages 162 to 163). ing should be about 1⁄2" larger than the window height and width. If necessary, attach wood
strips to the rough framing as spacers to bring the opening to the required size.
C D
Use a level to check that the sill of the rough opening is level and the side jambs are plumb. Use Insert the garden window into the opening, pressing it tight against the framing. Support the
a framing square to make sure each corner is square. The rough framing must be in good con- unit with notched 2 × 4s under the bottom edge of the window until it has been fastened
dition in order to support the weight of the garden window. If the framing is severely deteriorated securely to the framing.
or out of plumb or square, you may need to reframe the rough opening (see pages 61 to 63).
Doors & Windows/ Garden Window 181

Doors & Windows
Installing a Garden Window (Cont.)
E F
The inside edge of the window sleeve should be flush with the interior wall surface. Check the Once the garden window is in place and level, hold a piece of window trim in place along the
sill of the garden window for level. Shim beneath the lower side of the sill, if necessary, to make exterior of the window and trace the outline onto the siding. Remove the window. Cut the sid-
it level. ing down to the sheathing using a circular saw (page 165). See pages 32 to 35 for help with
removing different types of siding.
G H
Install strips of building paper between siding and sheathing. Wrap them around the fram- Drill countersunk pilot holes every 12" to 16" through the window sleeve into the rough
ing and staple them in place. On the sides, work from the bottom up, so each piece overlaps header, jack studs, and sill.
the piece below. Reposition the window and reshim. Make sure the space between the window
and the siding is equal to the width of the trim on all sides.
182 Doors & Windows/ Garden Window

I J
Insert shims between the window sleeve and rough frame at each hole location along the top Locate and mark the studs nearest the edges of the window, using a stud finder. Cut two
and sides to prevent bowing of the window frame. Fasten the window to the framing, using pieces of siding to fit behind the brackets and tack them in place over the marked studs with
3" screws. Continue checking for level, plumb, and square as the screws are tightened. 4d siding nails. Position the support brackets with the shorter side against the siding and the
longer side beneath the window. Fasten the brackets to the window and the studs, using the
included screws.
K L
Drip edge
Cut a piece of drip edge to length, apply construction adhesive to its top flange, and slide it Cut all protruding shims flush with the framing, using a utility knife or handsaw. Insulate or
under the siding above the window. Cut each trim piece to size. Position the trim and attach caulk gaps between the window sleeve and the wall. Finish the installation by reinstalling the
it using 8d galvanized casing nails driven through pilot holes. Seal the edges of the trim with existing interior trim or installing new trim (pages 270 to 273).
a bead of paintable silicone caulk, approximately 3⁄8" wide.
Doors & Windows/ Garden Window 183

Doors & Windows
Installing a Bay Window

Cripple stud Modern bay windows are preassembled for
Metal flashing
easy installation, but it still will take several
days to complete an installation. Bay windows
Roof frame are large and heavy, and installing them
Building paper
requires special techniques. Have at least one
Sheathing helper to assist you, and try to schedule the
Header (double 2 × 8s work when there’s little chance of rain. Using
Shingles with 1⁄2" plywood) prebuilt bay window accessories will speed
your work (see page 185).
Building paper A large bay window can weigh several hun-
Preattached dred pounds, so it must be anchored securely
Drip edge head board to framing members in the wall and supported
by braces attached to framing members below
Insulation the window. Some window manufacturers
include cable-support hardware that can be
used instead of metal support braces (see illus-
tration on page 185).
Before purchasing a bay window unit, check
with the local building department regarding
the code requirements. Many local codes
require large windows and low bay windows
with window seats to be glazed with tempered
glass for safety.
Side
jam Tools: Straightedge, hammer, circular
saw, wood chisel, pry bar, drill, level,
nail set, stapler, aviation snips, roofing
knife, caulk gun, utility knife, T-bevel.
Materials: Bay window unit, prebuilt
roof frame kit, metal support brackets,
2 × lumber, 16d galvanized common
nails, 16d and 8d galvanized casing
nails, 3" and 2" galvanized utility
screws, 16d casing nails, tapered wood
shims, building paper, fiberglass insula-
Support brace tion, 6-mil polyethylene sheeting, drip
edge, 1" roofing nails, step flashing,
Preattached
Skirt board seat board shingles, top flashing, roofing cement,
2 × 2 lumber, 51⁄2" skirt boards, window
Plastic vapor
barrier Rough sill trim, 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood,
(double 2 x 6s paintable silicone caulk.
Furring strip with 1⁄2" plywood)
Insulation Wall sheathing

Plywood skirt bottom Cutaway view
Siding
184 Doors & Windows/ Bay Window

Tips for Installing a Bay Window
F E
D
Use prebuilt accessories to ease installation of a bay window. Roof frames (A) come complete and shingles or order a copper or aluminum shell. Metal support braces (E) and skirt boards
with sheathing (B), metal top flashing (C) and step flashing (D) and can be special-ordered (F) can be ordered at your home center if they are not included with the window unit. Use
at most home centers. You will have to specify the exact size of your window unit and the two braces for bay windows up to 5 ft. wide and three braces for larger windows. Skirt boards
angle (pitch) you want for the roof. You can cover the roof inexpensively with building paper are clad with aluminum or vinyl and can be cut to fit with a circular saw or power miter saw.
Rough
sill Header
King
stud Soffit
Extra Tail of
cripple rafter
truss
Jack
stud
Construct a bay window frame similar to that for a stan- Cable support systems are alternatives to traditional sup- Build an enclosure above the bay window if the roof soffit
dard window (see pages 61 to 63) but use a built-up sill made port braces. The cables run through the window framing, overhangs the window. Build a 2 × 2 frame (top) to match the
from two 2 × 6s sandwiched around 1⁄2" plywood (see page typically at each angled mullion post, and are secured to the angles of the bay window, and attach the frame securely to
54). Install extra cripple studs under the sill ends to help carry rafters or trusses, or to the header. If your bay window uses the wall and overhanging soffit. Install a vapor barrier and
the window’s weight. a cable support system, follow the window manufacturer’s insulation (see page 189), then finish the enclosure so it
installation guide to ensure proper installation. matches the siding (bottom).
Doors & Windows/ Bay Window 185

Doors & Windows
Installing a Bay Window
A B
Prepare the project site and remove the interior wall surfaces (see pages 27 to 31), then frame Set the blade on a circular saw just deep enough to cut through the siding, then cut along
the rough opening. Remove the exterior wall surfaces as directed on pages 32 to 35. Mark for the outline. Stop just short of the corners to avoid damaging the siding outside the outline.
removal a section of siding directly below rough opening. The width of the marked area Use a sharp chisel to complete the corner cuts. Remove the cut siding inside the outline.
should equal that of the window unit and the height should equal that of the skirt board.
C D
Position the support braces along the rough sill within the widest part of the bay window and Slide the support braces down between the siding and the sheathing. Pry the siding mate-
above the cripple stud locations. Add cripple studs to match the support brace locations, if rial away from the sheathing slightly to make room for the braces, if necessary. NOTE: On
necessary. Draw outlines of the braces on the top of the sill. Use a chisel or circular saw to stucco, you will need to chisel notches in the masonry surface to fit the support braces.
notch the sill to a depth equal to the thickness of the top arm of the support braces.

E F
16d nails
Attach the braces to the rough sill with galvanized 16d common nails. Drive 3" utility screws Lift the bay window onto the support braces and slide it into the rough opening. Center the
through the front of the braces and into the rough sill to prevent twisting. unit within the opening.
G H I
Sheathing
Jack
stud
Mark blocks
flush with
faces of studs
Shim
Side
jamb
Check the window unit to make sure it is level. If necessary, Set the roof frame on top of the window, with the sheathing If the gap between the side jambs and jack studs is more
drive shims under the low side to level the window. loosely tacked in place. Trace the outline of the window and than 1" wide, mark and cut wood blocks to bridge the gap
Temporarily brace the outside bottom edge of the unit with roof unit onto the siding. Leave a gap of about 1⁄2" around the (smaller gaps require no blocks). Leave a small space for
2 × 4s to keep it from moving on the braces. roof unit to allow room for the flashing and shingles. inserting wood shims. Remove the window, then attach
blocks every 12" along the studs.

Doors & Windows
Installing a Bay Window (cont.)
J K
Shim
Brace
Cut the siding just down to the sheathing along the outline, using a circular saw. You may Set the bay window unit back on the braces, and slide it back into the rough opening until
want to use a 1 × 4 to provide a flat base for the saw (see pages 34 to 35). Stop just short of the brick moldings are tight against the sheathing. Insert wood shims between the outside
corners, then use a wood chisel to complete the corner cuts. Remove the cut siding. Pry the end of the metal braces and the seat board (inset). Check the unit to make sure it is level, and
remaining siding slightly away from the sheathing around the roof outline to allow for easy adjust the shims, if necessary.
installation of the metal flashing. Cover the exposed sheathing with 8"-wide strips of building
paper (see step D, page 177).
L M Blocking
Shim
Jack
stud
Anchor the window by driving 16d galvanized casing nails Drive wood shims into the spaces between the side jambs and the blocking or jack studs and between the headboard and
through the outside brick molding and into the framing header, spacing the shims every 12". Fill the spaces around the window with loosely packed fiberglass insulation. At each shim
members. Space the nails every 12", and use a nail set to location, drive 16d casing nails through the jambs and shims and into the framing members. Cut off the shims flush with the
drive the nail heads below the surface of the wood. If neces- framing members, using a handsaw or utility knife. Use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface. If necessary, drill
sary, drill pilot holes to prevent splitting the wood. pilot holes to prevent splitting the wood.

N O
Staple sheet plastic over the top of the window unit to serve as a vapor barrier. Trim the edges Remove the sheathing pieces from the roof frame, then position the frame on top of the win-
of the plastic around the top of the window, using a utility knife. dow unit. Attach the roof frame to the window and to the wall at stud locations, using 3"
utility screws.
P Q R
Fill the empty space inside the roof frame with loosely packed Staple asphalt building paper over the roof sheathing. Make Cut drip edges with aviation snips, then attach them around
fiberglass insulation. Screw the sheathing back onto the roof sure each piece of building paper overlaps the one below by the edge of the roof sheathing, using roofing nails.
frame, using 2" utility screws. at least 5".

Doors & Windows
S T
Step flashing
Cut and fit a piece of step flashing on each side of the roof frame. Adjust the flashing so it overhangs the drip edge by 1⁄4". Trim the end of the flashing to the same angle as the drip
Flashings help guard against moisture damage. edge. Nail the flashing to the sheathing with roofing nails.
U V Full row of shingles
Roof hips
6" starter
row
Drip edge
Cut 6"-wide strips of shingles for the starter row. Use roofing nails to attach the starter row shingles so they overhang the drip Nail a full row of shingles over the starter row, aligning the
edge by about 1⁄2". Cut the shingles along the roof hips with a straightedge and roofing knife. bottom edges of the full shingles with the bottom edge of the
starter row. Make sure the shingle notches are not aligned.
W X
Second step
flashing
1
⁄2"
Install another piece of step flashing on each side of the roof, overlapping the first piece of Cut and install another row of full shingles. The bottom edges should overlap the tops of the
flashing by about 5". notches on the previous row by 1⁄2". Attach the shingles with roofing nails driven just above
the notches.

Y Z-
Continue installing alternate rows of step flashing and shingles to the top of the roof. Bend When the roof sheathing is covered with shingles, install the top flashing. Cut and bend the
the last pieces of step flashing to fit over the roof hips. ends over the roof hips, and attach it with roofing nails. Attach the remaining rows of shin-
gles over the top flashing.
AA BB
Find the height of the final rows of shingles by measuring from the top of the roof to a point Attach the final row of shingles with a thick bead of roofing cement—not nails. Press firmly
1
⁄2" below the top of the notches on the last installed shingle. Trim the shingles to fit. to ensure a good bond.
CC DD
Make ridge caps by cutting shingles into 1-ft.-long sections. Use a roofing knife to trim off the Install the ridge caps over the roof hips, beginning at the bottom of the roof. Trim the bottom
top corners of each piece, so the ridge caps will be narrower at the top than at the bottom. ridge caps to match the edges of the roof. Keep the same amount of overlap with each layer.

Doors & Windows
EE FF
At the top of the roof hips, use a roofing knife to cut the shingles to fit flush with the wall. Staple sheet plastic over the bottom of the window unit to serve as a vapor barrier. Trim the
Attach the shingles with roofing cement—do not use any nails. plastic around the bottom of the window.
GG HH
Cut and attach a 2 × 2 skirt frame around the bottom of the bay window, using 3" galva- Cut skirt boards to match the shape of the bay window bottom, beveling the ends to ensure
nized utility screws. Set the skirt frame back about 1" from the edges of the window. a tight fit. Test-fit the skirt board pieces to make sure they match the bay window bottom.

II JJ
Skirt frame
1"
Furring
strip Skirt
board
Cut a 2 × 2 furring strip for each skirt board. Bevel the ends to the same angles as the skirt Attach the skirt board pieces to the skirt frame. Drill 1⁄8" pilot holes every 6" through the back
boards. Attach the furring strips to the back of the skirt boards, 1" from the bottom edges, of the skirt frame and into the skirt boards, then attach the skirt boards with 2" galvanized
using 2" galvanized utility screws. utility screws.
KK MM
Roofing
cement
Measure the space inside the skirt boards, using a T-bevel to duplicate the angles. Cut a skirt
Silicone
bottom from 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood to fit this space.
caulk
LL
Furring
strip
Skirt
bottom
Lay fiberglass insulation on the skirt bottom. Position the skirt bottom against the furring Install any additional trim pieces (inset) specified by your window manufacturer, using 8d
strips and attach it by driving 2" galvanized utility screws every 6" through the bottom and galvanized casing nails. Seal roof edges with roofing cement, and seal around the rest of the
into the furring strips. window with paintable silicone caulk. See pages 224 to 233 to finish the walls, and pages 270
to 273 to trim the interior of the window.

Doors & Windows
Installing Glass Block Windows

Glass block is a durable material that transmits light while reducing vis- Use 1⁄4" plastic T-spacers between blocks to ensure consistent mortar
ibility, making it a perfect material for creating unique windows. Glass joints and to support the weight of the block to prevent mortar from
block windows are energy-efficient and work particularly well as accent squeezing out before it sets. (T-spacers can be modified into L or flat
windows, privacy windows, and basement security windows. shapes for use at corners and along the channel.) For best results, use
Glass block is available in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and patterns. premixed glass block mortar. This high-strength mortar is a little drier
It can be found, along with other necessary installation products, at spe- than regular brick mortar, because glass doesn’t wick water out of the
cialty distributors or home centers. mortar as brick does.
Building with glass block is much like building with brick, with two Because there are many applications for glass block, and installation
important differences. First, glass block must be supported by another techniques may vary, ask a glass block retailer or manufacturer about the
structure and cannot function in a load-bearing capacity. Second, glass best products and methods for your specific project. Pages 195 to 197
block cannot be cut. Take extra time to make sure the layout is accurate. discuss a number of installation methods.
When installing a glass block window, the size of the rough opening is
based on the size and number of blocks you are using. It is much easier to
make an existing opening smaller to accommodate the glass block rather Tools: Tape measure, circular saw, hammer, utility knife, tin
than make it larger, which requires reframing the rough opening. To deter- snips, drill, mixing box, trowel, 4-ft. level, rubber mallet, jointing
mine the rough opening width, multiply the nominal width of the glass tool, sponge, nail set, paintbrush, caulk gun.
block by the number of blocks horizontally, and add 1⁄4". For the height, Materials: 2 × 4 lumber, 16d common nails, glass block perime-
multiply the nominal height by the number of blocks vertically and add 1⁄4". ter channels, 1" galvanized flat-head screws, glass block mortar,
Because of its weight, a glass block window requires a solid base. The glass blocks, 1⁄4" T-spacers, expansion strips, silicone caulk, con-
framing members of the rough opening will need to be reinforced. struction adhesive, mortar sealant.
Contact your local building department for requirements in your area.
Installing a Glass Block Window

A
Header
Jack
stud
Window
King rough opening
stud
Doubled
rough sill
Cripple
studs
Sole
plate
Measure the size of the rough opening and determine the size of the glass block window you
will install (see above). Reinforce the rough opening framing by doubling the rough sill and
installing additional cripple studs. Cut all pieces to size and fasten with 16d common nails.
194 Doors & Windows/ Glass Block

B C D
Cut perimeter channel to length for the sill and side jambs, For the header, cut a channel to length, mitering the ends at Set two blocks into the sill channel, one against each jamb—
mitering the ends at 45°. Align front edge of channel flush 45°, then cut it in half lengthwise, using a utility knife. Align do not place mortar between blocks and channels. Place a 1⁄4"
with front edge of exterior wall sheathing. Drill pilot holes one-half of the channel flush with the exterior face of the flat spacer against the first block. Mix glass block mortar and
every 12" through the channels (if not provided), and fasten sheathing, and fasten in place with 1" galvanized flat-head liberally butter the leading edge of another block, then push
the channels in place with 1" galvanized flat-head screws. screws. it tight against the first block. Make sure the joint is filled
NOTE: Paint screw heads white to help conceal them. with mortar.
E F G
Lay the remainder of the first course, building from both At the top of the course, fill any depression at the top of each Test the mortar as you work. When it can resist light finger
jambs toward the center. Use flat spacers between blocks to mortar joint with mortar and insert a 1⁄4" T-spacer, then lay a pressure, remove the T-spacers (inset) and pack mortar into
maintain proper spacing. Plumb and level each block as you 3
⁄8" bed of mortar for the next course. Lay the blocks for each the voids, then tool the joints with a jointing tool. Remove
work, then also check the entire course for level. Tap blocks course, using T-spacers to maintain proper spacing. Check excess mortar with a damp sponge, or a nylon or natural-
into place using the rubber handle of the trowel—do not use each block for level and plumb as you work. bristle brush.
metal tools with glass block. Butter both sides of the final
block in the course to install it.
Doors & Windows/ Glass Block 195

Doors & Windows
Installing a Glass Block Window (cont.)
H I Expansion strip J
To ease block placement in the final course, trim the outer Cut an expansion strip for the header 11⁄2" wide and to Clean glass block thoroughly with wet sponge, rinsing often.
tabs off one side of the T-spacers, using tin snips. Install the length. Slide it between the top course of block and the Allow surface to dry, then remove cloudy residue with clean,
blocks of the final course. After the final block is installed, header of the rough opening. Apply a bead of construction dry cloth. On the exterior, caulk between glass block and chan-
work in any mortar that has been forced out of the joints. adhesive to the top edge of the remaining half of the header nels, and between channels and framing members before
channel, and slide it between the expansion strip and header. installing brick molding. After brick molding is installed, allow
mortar to cure for two weeks before applying a sealant.
Variation: Glass Block Window Kits
Some glass block window kits do not require mortar. Instead, the blocks are set into the Preassembled glass block windows are simple to install. These vinyl-clad units have a nail-
perimeter channels and the joints are created using plastic spacer strips. Silicone caulk is then ing flange around the frame, which allows them to be hung using the same installation
used to seal the joints. techniques as for standard windows with a nailing flange.
196 Doors & Windows/ Glass Block

Installing a Basement Glass Block Window
A B C
Measure the rough opening, between the masonry jambs Test-fit the glass block and ventilation panel in the window Mix glass block mortar, then apply a 1⁄2"-thick layer along the
and from the masonry sill to the header. Calculate how opening, using the T-spacers, L-spacers, and flat spacers (see faces of the masonry. Place the first block using spacers, then
many glass blocks are needed, allowing for 1⁄4" to 3⁄4" on each page 195). If necessary, the tabs on the spacers can be liberally butter the leading edge of the next block and push
side, and 1⁄4" on the top. Remove the old window and pry out trimmed down to allow the window to be perfectly centered it tight against the first, using spacers (see step D). Lay the
the frame using a crowbar. Remove any protruding masonry from side to side in the opening. remainder of the course, scraping away any loose mortar
and fill depressions with mortar to create a flat surface. If and filling any voids in the joints. Check the course for level
necessary, add a wooden header so the rough opening and lightly smooth the joints with a pointing tool.
matches standard glass block dimensions.
D E
Bend 12" panel anchors into an L-shape and attach one to each masonry jamb, flush against Let the mortar dry for an hour, then twist off the exposed tabs on the spacers, using a
the top of the first course of block, using masonry anchors. Apply another 1⁄2"-thick bed of needlenose pliers. Run a pointing tool over the joints with moderate pressure. Fill any remain-
mortar and install the next course of block. For the top row, trim off the outer tab on one ing voids in the joints. After the mortar is dry (approximately 3 hours), wipe the face of the
side of the spacers to ease block placement. Insert an expansion strip between the top of the glass block with a soft cloth to remove any residue. Use silicone caulk to seal the top edge of
blocks and the wooden header. Check for level and plumb, and fill any voids with additional the window around the expansion material, both inside and out.
mortar. Smooth the joints with a pointing tool. Inspect the inside of the window; fill any voids
and smooth the joints with the pointing tool.
Doors & Windows/ Glass Block 197

Doors & Windows
Installing a Tubular Skylight

Any interior room can be brightened with a tubular skylight. Tubular
skylights are quite energy-efficient and are relatively easy to install, with
no complicated framing involved.
The design of tubular skylights varies among manufacturers, with
some using solid plastic reflecting tubes and others using flexible tub-
ing. Various diameters are also available. Measure the distance between
the framing members in your attic before purchasing your skylight, to
be sure it will fit.
This project shows the installation of a tubular skylight on a sloped,
asphalt-shingled roof. Consult the dealer or manufacturer for installa-
tion procedures on other roof types.
Tools: Pencil, drill, tape measure, wallboard saw, reciprocating

saw or jig saw, pry bar, screwdriver, hammer, wire cutters,
utility knife, chalk.
Materials: Tubular skylight kit, stiff wire, 2" roofing nails or
flashing screws, roofing cement.
Installing a Tubular Skylight

A B C
Drill a pilot hole through the ceiling at the approximate loca- Center the ceiling ring frame over the hole and trace around In the attic, choose the most direct route for the tubing to
tion for your skylight. Push a stiff wire up into the attic to help it with a pencil. Carefully cut along the pencil line with a reach the roof. Find the center between the appropriate
locate the hole. In the attic, make sure the space around the wallboard saw or reciprocating saw. Save the wallboard ceil- rafters and drive a nail up through the roof sheathing and
hole is clear of any insulation. Drill a second hole through the ing cutout to use as your roof-hole pattern. Attach the ceiling shingles.
ceiling at the centerpoint between two joists. frame ring around the hole with the included screws.
198 Doors & Windows/ Tubular Skylight

D E Top
frame
ring
Lower
tubing
ring
Use the wallboard ceiling cutout, centered over the nail hole, as a template for the roof open- Pull the tubing over the top frame ring. Bend the frame tabs out through the tubing, keep-
ing. Trace the cutout onto the roof with chalk. Drill a starter hole to insert the reciprocating ing two or three rings of the tubing wire above the tabs. Wrap the junction three times
saw blade, then cut out the hole in the roof. Pry up the lower portion of the shingles above around with the included PVC tape. Then, in the attic, measure from the roof to the ceiling.
the hole. Remove any staples or nails around the hole edge. Stretch out the tubing and cut it to length with a utility knife and wire cutters. Pull the loose
end of tubing over the lower ring and wrap it three times with PVC tape.
F G H
Diffuser Ceiling
lens frame
ring
Gasket
Lower the tubing through the roof hole and slide the flashing Secure the flashing to the roof with 2" roofing nails or flash- Pull the lower end of the tubing down through the ceiling
into place with the upper portion of the flashing underneath ing screws. Seal under the shingles and over all nail heads hole. Attach the lower tubing ring to the ceiling frame ring
the existing shingles. This is easier with two people, one on with roofing cement. Attach the skylight dome and venting to and fasten it with screws. Attach the gasket to the diffuser
the roof and one in the attic. the frame with the included screws. lens and work the gasket around the perimeter of the ceiling
frame. Repack any insulation around the tubing in the attic.
Doors & Windows/ Tubular Skylight 199

Doors & Windows
Installing a Skylight
Depending on the model you choose and
where you place it, a skylight can offer
warmth in the winter, cooling ventilation in
the summer, and a view of the sky or the tree-
tops around your house during any season.
And, of course, skylights provide natural light.
Because a skylight lets in so much light, the
sizing and placement of the unit are important
considerations. A skylight that’s too big can
quickly overheat a space, especially in an attic.
The same is true of using too many skylights
in any one room. For that reason it’s often best
to position a skylight away from the day’s
brightest sun. Other ways to avoid overheat-
ing include choosing a model with tinted
glazing or a low solar-heat-gain coefficient
(between .30 and .50), or simply covering the
skylight with a shade during the hottest hours
of the day.
You may want to select an operable skylight
that opens and closes to vent warm air. In fin-
ished attics, operable skylights help draw
cooler air from the floors below. In addition,
some operable models open far enough to
serve as egress windows—an important con-
sideration for installations in finished attics.
When a skylight is installed above an unfin-
ished attic space, a special skylight shaft must
be constructed to channel light directly to the
room below. To install a skylight shaft, see
pages 206 to 209.
Installing a skylight above finished space
involves other considerations. First, the ceiling
surface must be removed to expose the rafters.
For information on removing wall and ceiling rafters, as shown in the following steps. If your
Tools: 4-ft. level, circular saw, drill, combi-
surfaces, see pages 27 to 31. skylight requires alteration of more than two
nation square, reciprocating saw, pry bar,
A skylight frame is similar to a standard rafters or if your roofing is made with unusu- chalk line, stapler, caulk gun, utility knife,
window frame (see page 54). It has a header ally heavy material, such as clay tile or slate, tin snips, plumb bob, jig saw, wallboard
and sill, like a window frame, but has king consult an architect or engineer before starting tools.
rafters, rather than king studs. Skylight frames the project.
also have trimmers that define the sides of the Today’s good-quality skylight units are Materials: 2 x lumber; 16d and 10d com-
mon nails; 1 x 4; building paper; roofing
rough opening. Refer to the manufacturer's unlikely to leak, but a skylight is only as
cement; skylight flashing; 2", 11⁄4", and 3⁄4"
instructions to determine what size to make leakproof as its installation. Follow the manu- roofing nails; finish nails; fiberglass insu-
the opening for the skylight you select. facturer’s instructions, and install the flashing lation; twine; 6-mil polyethylene sheeting;
With standard rafter-frame roof construc- meticulously, as it will last a lot longer than 1
⁄2" wallboard; wallboard screws; finishing
tion, you can safely cut into one or two rafters any sealant. materials.
as long as you permanently support the cut
200 Doors & Windows/ Skylight

Installing a Skylight
A B
Double
header
mark
Intermediate
rafter
King
rafters
Double sill
Planned
mark
rough
opening
Use the first rafter on each side of the planned rough opening as a king rafter. Measure and Brace the intermediate rafter by installing two 2 × 4s between the rafter and the attic floor.
mark where the double header and sill will fit against the king rafters. Then, use a level as a Position the braces just above the header marks and just below the sill marks. Secure them
straightedge to extend the marks across the intermediate rafter. temporarily to the rafter and subfloor (or joists) with screws.
C D
Sister rafter
Reinforce each king rafter by attaching a full-length “sister” rafter against its outside face. Use a combination square to transfer the sill and header marks across the face of the inter-
Cut the sister rafters from the same size of lumber as the existing rafters, matching the mediate rafter, then cut along the outermost lines with a reciprocating saw. Do not cut into
lengths and end cuts exactly. Work each sister rafter into position, flush against the outside the roof sheathing. Carefully remove the cutout section with a pry bar. The remaining rafter
face of the king rafters, then nail the sisters to the kings with pairs of 10d common nails, portions will serve as cripple rafters.
spaced 12" apart.
Doors & Windows/ Skylight 201

Doors & Windows
Installing a Skylight (cont.)
E F
Cripple
rafter
Build a double header and double sill to fit snugly between the king rafters, using 2 × lum- Install the header and sill, anchoring them to the king rafters and cripple rafters with 16d
ber that is the same size as the rafters. Nail the header pieces together using pairs of 10d common nails. Make sure the ends of the header and sill are aligned with the appropriate
nails, spaced 6" apart. marks on the king rafters.
G H
Trimmers
If your skylight unit is narrower than the opening between the king studs, measure and make Mark the opening for the roof cutout by driving a screw through the sheathing at each cor-
marks for the trimmers: They should be centered in the opening and spaced according to the ner of the frame. Then, tack a couple of scrap boards across the opening to prevent the roof
manufacturer’s specifications. Cut the trimmers from the same 2 × lumber used for the rest cutout from falling and causing damage below.
of the frame, and nail them in place with 10d common nails. Remove the 2 × 4 braces.

I J
From the roof, measure between the screws to make sure the rough opening dimensions are Tack a straight 1 × 4 to the roof, aligned with the inside edge of one chalk line. Make sure the
accurate. Snap chalk lines between the screws to mark the rough opening, then remove the nail heads are flush with the surface of the board.
screws.
K L
Cut through the shingles and sheathing along the chalk line, using a circular saw and an Remove the shingles around the rough opening with a flat pry bar, exposing at least 9" of
old blade or a remodeling blade. Rest the saw foot on the 1 × 4, and use the edge of the building paper on all sides of the opening. Remove whole shingles, rather than cutting them.
board as a guide. Reposition the 1 × 4, and cut along the remaining lines. Remove the cut-
out roof section.

Doors & Windows
Installing a Skylight (cont.)
M N O
Nailing
flange
Cut strips of building paper and slide them between the shin- Spread a 5"-wide layer of roofing cement around the roof Nail through the nailing flange and into the sheathing and
gles and existing building paper. Wrap the paper around so opening. Set the skylight into the opening so that the nailing framing members with 2" galvanized roofing nails spaced
that it covers the faces of the framing members, and staple flange rests on the roof. Adjust the unit so that it sits squarely every 6". NOTE: If your skylight uses L-shaped brackets instead
it in place. in the opening. of a nailing flange, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
P Q R
Step
flashing
Skylight
jamb
Side
flange
Adhesive
strip
5” overlap
Sill
flashing Drip
edge
Patch in shingles up to the bottom edge of the skylight unit. Spread roofing cement on the bottom edge of the sill flash- Spread roofing cement on the bottom of a piece of step flash-
Attach the shingles with 11⁄4" roofing nails driven just below ing, then fit the flashing around the bottom of the unit. ing, then slide the flashing under the drip edge on one side
the adhesive strip. If necessary, cut the shingles with a utility Attach the flashing by driving 3⁄4" galvanized roofing nails of the skylight. The step flashing should overlap the sill flash-
knife so that they fit against the bottom of the skylight. through the vertical side flange (near the top of the flashing) ing by 5". Press the step flashing down to bond it. Do the
and into the skylight jambs. same on the opposite side of the skylight.

S T U
Notch
Step
flashing
Patch in the next row of shingles on each side of the skylight, Continue applying alternate rows of step flashing and shin- At the top of the skylight, cut and bend the last piece of step
following the existing shingle pattern. Drive a 11⁄4" roofing gles, using roofing cement and roofing nails. Each piece of flashing on each side, so the vertical flange wraps around the
nail through each shingle and the step flashing and into the flashing should overlap the preceding piece by 5". corner of the skylight. Patch in the next row of shingles.
sheathing. Drive additional nails just above the notches in
the shingles.
V W X
Vertical
flange
Head Drip
flashing edge
Spread roofing cement on the bottom of the head flashing, Fill in the remaining shingles, cutting them to fit, if neces- Apply a continuous bead of roofing cement along the joint
to bond it to the roof. Position the flashing against the top sary. Attach the shingles with roofing nails driven just above between the shingles and skylight. Finish the interior of the
of the skylight so the vertical flange fits under the drip the notches. framed opening as desired.
edge and the horizontal flange fits under the shingles
above the skylight.

Doors & Windows
Building a Skylight Shaft
Sister Header Cripple A
rafter
rafter Sister
rafter
King
rafter
Trimmer
Nailing
strips
Short
corner
post
Vapor
barrier
Insulation
Front and side cut
away for clarity
A skylight shaft is made with 2 × 4 lumber and wallboard, and includes a vapor barrier Remove any insulation in the area where the skylight will be located; turn off and re-route
and fiberglass insulation. You can build a straight shaft with four vertical sides or an angled electrical circuits as necessary. Use a plumb bob as a guide to mark reference points on the
shaft that has a longer frame at the ceiling level and one or more sides set at an angle. Since ceiling surface, directly below the inside corners of the skylight frame.
the ceiling opening is larger, an angled shaft lets in more direct light than a straight shaft.
B C
Plumb
mark
If you are installing a straight shaft, use the plumb marks made in step A to define the cor- From the room below, mark cutting lines, then remove the ceiling surface (see pages 27 to 31).
ners of the ceiling opening; drive a finish nail through the ceiling surface at each mark. If you
are installing an angled shaft, measure out from the plumb marks and make new marks that
define the corners of the ceiling opening; drive finish nails at the new marks.
206 Doors & Windows/ Skylight Shaft

D E
King
Intermediate joist
joist
King Sister
joists joist
Use the nearest joists on either side of the ceiling opening to serve as king joists. Measure and If you will be removing a section of an intermediate joist, reinforce the king joists by nailing
mark where the double header and double sill will fit against the king joists, and where the full-length “sister” joists to the outside faces of the king joists, using 10d nails. See pages 366
outside edge of the header and sill will cross any intermediate joists. to 367 for more information on installing sister joists.
F G
Install temporary supports below the project area to support the intermediate rafter on both Build a double header and double sill to span the distance between the king joists, using 2 ×
sides of the opening (see pages 36 to 39). Use a combination square to extend the cutting lines dimension lumber the same size as the joists.
down the sides of the intermediate joist, then cut out the joist section with a reciprocating saw.
Pry loose the cut-out portion of the joist, being careful not to damage the ceiling surface.
Doors & Windows/ Skylight Shaft 207

Doors & Windows
Building a Skylight Shaft (cont.)
H I
Trimmers
Cripple
joist
Install the double header and double sill, anchoring them to the king joists and cripple joists Complete the ceiling opening by cutting and attaching trimmers, if required, along the sides
with 10d nails. The inside edges of the header and sill should be aligned with the edge of the of the ceiling cutout between the header and sill. Toenail the trimmers to the header and sill
ceiling cutout. with 10d nails.
J
Rafter header
Nailing strip
location
Corner post
(positioned
for marking)
Cutting lines
Rafter
Joist header Joist
Install 2 × 4 corner posts for the skylight shaft. To measure for the posts, begin with a 2 × 4 that is long enough to reach from the top to the bottom of the shaft. Hold the 2 × 4 against the
inside of the framed openings, so it is flush with the top of the rafter header and the bottom of the joist header (left photo). Mark cutting lines where the 2 × 4 meets the top of the joist or
trimmer, and the bottom of the rafter or trimmer (right photo). Cut along the lines, then toenail the posts to the top and bottom of the frame with 10d nails.
208 Doors & Windows/ Skylight Shaft

K L
Nailing strips
Nailing strips
Attach a 2 × 4 nailing strip to the outside edge of each corner post to provide a nailing sur- Install additional 2 × 4 nailing strips between the corner posts if the distances between posts
face for attaching the wallboard. Notch the ends of the nailing strips to fit around the are more than 24". Miter the top ends of the nailing strips to fit against the rafter trimmers.
trimmers; a perfect fit is not necessary.
M N O
Wallboard
Insulation and insulation
removed removed for
for clarity clarity.
Wrap the skylight shaft with fiberglass insulation. Secure From inside the shaft, staple a plastic vapor barrier of 6-mil Finish the inside of the shaft with wallboard (see pages 224
the insulation by wrapping twine around the shaft and polyethylene sheeting over the insulation. to 233). TIP: To reflect light, paint the shaft interior with a
insulation. light-colored, semigloss paint.
Doors & Windows/ Skylight Shaft 209

Doors & Windows
Patching Exterior Walls

Many remodeling projects involve patching or repairing exterior wall
surfaces, and the key to a successful job is to follow the original work.
This will help you determine the best installation method and make
sure the patch blends in well with the surrounding area.
To patch wood lap siding, it’s important to use a staggered pattern
where vertical end-joints are not aligned between rows. If you’ve installed
a window or door into an existing opening, you may have to remove
some siding pieces before patching in new ones to maintain the staggered
installation (see page 211).
Wood siding (see pages 211 to 213) generally is easy to match with
new material from a home center. Vinyl and metal siding can be more
difficult to match, so contact the siding manufacturer before making
any changes to your existing surfaces. It’s also important that you have
the right trim pieces to make sure the patch looks good and creates a
weather-proof barrier.
If you’re patching a stucco wall (see pages 214 to 215), practice first
on scrap materials, because duplicating stucco textures takes some skill.
Tools: Circular saw, flat pry bar, aviation snips, trowel, scratch-
ing tool, whisk broom.
Windows and doors with nailing flanges must be covered with wood or metal molding,
usually purchased separately. After the window is installed, hold the trim pieces in place, then Materials: Exterior-wall sheathing, building paper, siding, 6d
mark an outline around the trim onto the siding. Trim the siding to fit. The window shown siding nails, paintable silicone caulk, stucco mix, tint (optional),
here was installed in an old door opening, which required patching beneath the window with self-furring metal lath, spray bottle.
sheathing, building paper, and siding.
Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding
Cut vinyl siding using a circular saw, metal snips, or a utility knife. Outfit a circular saw with Attach siding panels so they can expand and contract with temperature changes. Lock the
a plywood blade (fine-toothed), and install the blade backwards so the teeth point down. bottom edge underneath the nailing strip of the panel below, using a zip tool (see page 33) if
Make the cuts slowly, using standard cutting techniques. NOTE: Do not cut any material other necessary. Hold the panel flat to the sheathing without stretching it upward and nail through
than vinyl siding with the saw blade installed backwards. When cutting siding with a utility the centers of the nailing-strip slots, leaving about 1⁄32" between the nail head and the panel.
knife, score the panels using a framing square as a guide, then snap along the scored line. Fasten the middle of the panel first, and space the nails following manufacturer’s instructions.
210 Doors & Windows/ Exterior Walls

Patching Wood Lap Siding
A B
Starter strip
Cover the patch area with sheathing and building paper, if not already present. If the bot- Use a flat pry bar to remove lengths of lap siding on both sides of the patch area, creating a
tom row of siding is missing, nail a starter strip cut from a piece of siding along the bottom staggered pattern. When new siding is installed, the end joints will be offset for a less con-
of the patch area, using 6d siding nails. Leave a 1⁄4” gap at each joint in the starter strip to spicuous appearance.
allow for expansion.
C D E
Insulation
Bottom plate
Lap
siding
Rim joist
Sheathing
Starter
strip
Cut the bottom piece of lap siding to span the entire open- Cut and install succeeding rows of siding, nailing only near Fill joints between the siding pieces with paintable silicone
ing, and lay it over the starter strip. Allow a 1⁄4" expansion the top of the siding at stud locations. Work upward from the caulk. Repaint the entire wall surface as soon as the caulk
gap between board ends. Attach the siding with pairs of 6d bottom to create the proper overlap. dries to protect the new siding against weather.
siding nails driven at each stud location.
Doors & Windows/ Exterior Walls 211

Doors & Windows
Patching Wood Shakes & Shingles
A
Snap a chalk line across the existing shingles to mark the exposure—the amount of wood Variation: To ensure straight lines, tack a 1 × 4 flush with your reference lines. Nail the board
revealed beneath the overlap—using the old shingles as reference. Install new shingles at the through gaps between shingles. Use the board as a guide for installing the shingles.
chalk line, offsetting the seams. Fasten each shingle with two 4d to 7d corrosion-resistant
nails. Install remaining rows the same way.
B C
Cut shingles to fit around doors, windows, and protrusions in the walls, using a coping saw At the tops of windows and doors, cut and install the tops of shingles. Align the tops with
or handsaw. Make sure gaps between shingles aren’t aligned with the edges of doors and adjacent shingles on either side of the door or window. For the last row, measure and cut the
windows. shingles to fit under the horizontal eaves. Nail shingles in place, leaving an 1⁄8" gap between
shingles and soffits.

Patching Board & Batten Siding
A B C
Wood spacer
Starting at the bottom of the patch area, fasten horizontal At doors and windows, remove the exterior trim. Rip jamb Snap a level chalk line at the bottom of the patch area using
nailing strips every 16" to 24", matching the location of the extenders to the same width as the jambs and fasten in place the old siding as a guide, then nail a temporary 2 × 4 ledger
existing siding. Nail the strips to the studs, using 8d nails. with nails that penetrate the jamb by at least 1". At the flush with the line. Cut a siding board to length—from the
Install nailing strips around all doors and windows. header, cut aluminum drip cap to size and fasten in place at ledger to the soffit, minus 1⁄8". To install the new board, set it
the upper corners, using 6d galvanized nails. on the ledger, push it tight against the existing siding, and
fasten it at each nailing strip with 8d nails. To maintain a
consistent gap, use wood spacers between boards.
D E F
Drip cap
If more than one board is needed to span the height of the At doors and windows, cut boards to fit around the jamb Measure and cut battens to size. Center a batten over each
wall, cut a 45° bevel in the ends of the adjoining boards and extenders, keeping a 1⁄8" gap around all the jambs. Fasten gap between boards. Battens must overlap each board by 1⁄2".
butt them together. Make sure the seam falls over a nailing boards in place, using only one nail per nailing strip in the Drive one 10d nail in the battens at each nailing strip. Once
strip; however, offset seams by at least one nailing strip. area next to the side jambs. When all the boards are the battens are installed, remove the ledger board. Paint or
installed, fill gaps between boards and soffits, and between stain the siding desired.
boards and jambs with flexible, paintable caulk.

Doors & Windows
Patching Stucco
Ingredients of Scratch (base) Coat,
and Brown Coat Stucco
3 parts sand
2 parts portland cement
1 part masonry cement
water
Ingredients of Finish Coat Stucco

1 part lime
3 parts sand
6 parts white cement
tint (as desired)
water
For small jobs, use pre-mixed stucco, available at building For large jobs, combine dry stucco mix with water, following the manufacturer’s directions, or use the ingredients lists shown
centers. For best results, apply the stucco in two or three lay- here. A stucco finish typically contains two or three layers, depending on the application (see below). The mixtures for the base
ers, letting each layer dry completely between applications. and brown coats should be just moist enough to hold their shape when squeezed (inset). A finish-coat mix requires slightly
Pre-mixed stucco also can be used on larger areas, but it is more water than other coats. If you need to color the finish coat, mix test batches first, adding measured amounts of tint to
more expensive than mixing your own ingredients. each batch. Let the test batches dry for at least an hour to get an accurate indication of the final color.
Insulation
Stud Stud
Building paper
Concrete block
Metal lath
Base Coat
Scratch Coat
Finish Coat
Brown Coat
Finish Coat
When applying stucco over brick or block, use two coats: a 3⁄8"-thick base coat and a 1⁄4"- masonry walls and the scratch coat on wood-frame walls should be “scratched” after they
thick finish coat (left photo). Do not apply stucco directly over painted concrete block. On are applied. This involves etching horizontal grooves into the partially set stucco using a
wood-frame construction or an insulation-board surface, cover the area first with build- scratching tool. You can make your own scratching tool by driving a row of 11⁄2" wire nails
ing paper and metal lath. Then apply three coats of stucco: a scratch coat (3⁄8"–1⁄2" thick), a through a piece of 1 × 2. The grooves provide a gripping surface for the next stucco layer.
brown coat (3⁄8" thick), and a finish coat (1⁄8" thick) (right photo). Both the base coat on

Applying Stucco onto a Wood-frame Wall
A B
Cover the patch area with sheathing and building paper, if not already present. Cut self- Mix a batch of stucco for the scratch coat (see page 214). Apply a 3⁄8"-thick layer of stucco over
furring metal lath, using aviation snips, and attach it to the sheathing with 11⁄2" galvanized the lath, using a trowel. Press firmly to fill any voids, and cover the lath completely. Let the
roofing nails, driven into the wall studs every 6". Overlap pieces of lath by 2". NOTE: If the patch stucco dry until it will hold the impression of a thumbprint, then use a scratching tool to
area extends to the base of the wall, install a metal stop bead at the bottom of the wall. make shallow grooves across the entire surface. Let the stucco set for two days, dampening it
every few hours with fine spray to help it cure evenly.
C D
Mix a batch of stucco for the brown coat (see page 214), and apply it in a 3⁄8"-thick layer or Mix a stucco finish coat (see page 214). Dampen the wall, then apply the finish coat to match
until the patch area is within 1⁄4"–1⁄8" of the surrounding surface. Let the coat cure for two days, the surrounding stucco. The texture for the finish coat above was dashed on with a flick of a
dampening it every few hours. whisk broom, then flattened with a trowel. Keep the finish coat damp for a week while it cures.
Let the stucco dry for several more days if you plan to paint it.

W ALLS
C E I L I N G
&
S
Installing Fiberglass Insulation . . . . . . 218
Soundproofing Walls & Ceilings . . . . . 220
Installing & Finishing Wallboard . . . . . 224
Installing Cementboard . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Patching Plaster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Texturing Walls & Ceilings . . . . . . . . . . 236
Installing Ceramic Wall Tile . . . . . . . . 237
Adding a Wainscot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
Paneling a Ceiling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Installing a Suspended Ceiling . . . . . . 252
Installing Ceiling Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
Installing a Metal Tile Ceiling . . . . . . . 259
Installing Interior Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
Walls & Ceilings
Installing Fiberglass Insulation

Before you insulate your walls, ceilings, or indoor air from passing beyond wall or ceiling that it comes with a few drawbacks: The paper
floors (or even buy insulation), ask the local surfaces and through the framing, where it tears easily, and facings make it difficult to cut
building department about two things: R- would contact cold exterior surfaces and con- around obstacles. Also, if you trim a batt to fit
value and vapor barriers. All insulation has an dense. This condensation promotes mildew into a narrow bay, you lose the facing flange—
R-value clearly printed on its packaging. This growth that can rot the framing and insula- and thus the vapor seal—on one side. Most
is the measure of how well the insulation tion. Vapor barriers are required in most climates facings are flammable and must be covered
keeps in the heat and keeps out the cold, and and are typically installed on the “warm-in- with wallboard or another approved finish,
vice versa. The higher the R-value, the better winter” side of exterior walls and ceilings, even in unfinished areas, such as storage
the insulation works—and the thicker it is. between the insulation and the interior finish rooms. One alternative is to use insulation
The building department will tell you what material. with an approved flame-resistant foil facing.
R-values you need for your walls, ceilings, and Paper-faced, foil-faced, and encapsulated When installing insulation, make sure there
floors, and whether the insulation job must be insulation have their own vapor barriers, but a are no gaps between the insulation and fram-
inspected before you cover it. layer of 6-mil polyethylene sheeting stapled to ing, around obstructions, or between pieces of
Vapor barriers come in a few different framing members over unfaced insulation pro- insulation. The idea is to create a continuous
forms, but all have a common purpose. They vides a more effective, continuous barrier. If “thermal envelope” that keeps interior air from
prevent the water vapor present in warm you decide to use faced insulation be aware coming into contact with outdoor temperatures.
C Tools: Utility knife, stapler.

D
Materials: Fiberglass insulation, 6-mil
polyethylene sheeting, staples,
A packing tape.
Fiberglass insulation comes in batts cut to length for standard stud-wall bays, as well as long rolls. Various options Handling fiberglass is a lot less uncomfortable when you’re
include: kraft-paper and foil facings (A), which serve as vapor barriers (some foils are flame-resistant); plastic- dressed for it. Wear pants, a long-sleeve shirt, gloves, goggles,
encapsulated blankets (B); high density blankets (for rafters) (C); and standard, unfaced rolls and batts (D). Standard and a good-quality dust mask or respirator. Shower as soon as
widths fit between 16"- or 24"-on-center framing. you finish working.
218 Walls & Ceilings/ Insulation

Tips for Installing Fiberglass Insulation
Never compress insulation to fit into a narrow space. Instead, Insulate around pipes, wires, and electrical boxes by peeling Use scraps of insulation to fill gaps around window and
use a sharp utility knife to trim the blanket about 1⁄4" wider and the blanket in half and sliding the back half behind the door jambs. Fill the cavities loosely to avoid compressing the
longer than the space. To trim, hold the blanket in place and obstruction. Then, lay the front half in front of the obstruc- insulation. Fill narrow gaps with expanding spray-foam insu-
use a wall stud as a straightedge and cutting surface. tion. Trim the front half to fit snugly around boxes. lation, following manufacturer’s instructions.
Tips for Adding Vapor Barriers
Facing flange
Provide a vapor barrier using faced insulation by tucking in the edges of the insulation Install a polyethylene vapor barrier by draping the sheeting over the entire wall or ceiling,
until the facing flanges are flush with the edges of the framing. Make sure the flanges lie flat, extending it a few inches beyond the perimeter and overlapping the sheets at least 12". Staple
with no wrinkles or gaps, and staple them to the faces of the framing members about every the sheeting to the framing, then carefully cut around obstructions. Seal around electrical
8". Patch any gaps or facing tears with packing tape or a construction tape supplied by the boxes and other penetrations with packing tape. Trim excess sheeting along the ceiling and
manufacturer. floor after you install the surface material.
Walls & Ceilings/ Insulation 219

Walls & Ceilings
Soundproofing Walls & Ceilings

Building professionals add soundproofing ele- dealing with air, this kind of soundproofing is Standard construction methods typically
ments to combat everything from the hum of a lot like weatherizing your home: add weath- result in a 28 to 32 STC rating, while sound-
appliances to the roar of airliners. Many of the erstripping and door sweeps, seal air leaks with proofed walls and ceilings can carry ratings
techniques they use are simple improvements caulk, install storm doors and windows, etc. over 50. To give you an idea of how much
involving common products and materials. It’s The same techniques that keep out the cold soundproofing you need, a sleeping room at
usually well worth including some of these also block exterior noise and prevent sound 40 to 50 STC is quiet enough for most peo-
techniques in your own remodeling projects. from traveling between rooms. ple; a reading room is comfortable at 35 to 40
Sound is created by vibrations traveling After reducing airflow, the next level of STC. For another gauge, consider the fact that
through air and building material. Consequently, soundproofing is to improve the sound-block- increasing the STC rating of an assembly by
the best ways to reduce sound transmission are ing qualities of your walls and ceilings. 10 reduces the perceived sound levels by 50%.
by limiting airflow and blocking or absorbing Engineers rate soundproofing performance of The chart on page 221 lists the STC ratings
vibrations. Effective soundproofing typically wall and ceiling assemblies using a system of several wall and ceiling assemblies.
involves a combination of methods. called Sound Transmission Class, or STC. The Improvements to walls and ceilings usually
Stopping airflow—through walls, ceilings, higher the STC rating, the more sound is involve increasing the mass, absorbency, or
floors, windows, and doors—is essential to any blocked by the assembly. For example, if a wall resiliency of the assembly; often, a combination
soundproofing effort. (Even a 2-ft.-thick brick is rated at 30 to 35 STC, loud speech can be is best. Adding layers of wallboard increases
wall would not be very soundproof if it had understood through the wall. At 42 STC, loud mass, helping a wall resist the vibrational force
cracks in the mortar.) It’s also the simplest way speech is reduced to a murmur. At 50 STC, of sound (5⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard works
to make minor improvements. Because you’re loud speech cannot be heard through the wall. best because of its greater weight and density).
Soundproofing board also absorbs sound.
Soundproofing board is available through
Shown cutaway wallboard suppliers and manufacturers. Some
for clarity board products are gypsum-based; others are
lightweight fiberboard. Installing resilient steel
channels over the framing or old surface and
adding a new layer of wallboard increases
Caulk mass, while the channels allow the surface to
move slightly and absorb vibrations (see page
223). New walls built with staggered studs
and insulation are highly effective at reducing
5
⁄8" wallboard vibration (see page 223).
In addition to these permanent improve-
ments, you can reduce noise by decorating
Soundproofing with soft materials that absorb sound. Rugs
board
and carpet, drapery, fabric wall hangings, and
soft furniture help reduce atmospheric noise
Insulation within a room. Acoustical ceiling tiles effec-
tively absorb and help contain sound within a
Caulk
room but do little to prevent sound from
entering the room.
Adding soundproofing board and insulation are among the many simple ways you can reduce noise in your home.
220 Walls & Ceilings/ Soundproofing

STC Ratings for Various Wall & Ceiling Constructions*
Assembly STC Rating Assembly STC Rating
Wood-frame Walls Steel-frame Walls
• 2 × 4 wall; 1⁄2" wallboard on both sides; no caulk 30 • 35⁄8" metal studs, spaced 24" on-center; 5⁄8" fire-resistant 40
wallboard on both sides
• 2 × 4 wall; 1⁄2" wallboard on both sides; caulked 35
• 35⁄8" metal studs, spaced 24" on-center, 1⁄2" fire-resistant 48
• 2 × 4 wall; 1⁄2" wallboard on both sides; additional layer 38 wallboard single layer on one side, doubled on other
of 5⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard on one side side; insulated
• 2 × 4 wall; 1⁄2" wallboard on both sides; additional layer 40 • 21⁄2" metal studs, spaced 24" on-center; soundproofing 50
of 5⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard on both sides board (base layer) and 1⁄2" fire-resistant wallboard on
• 2 × 4 wall; 1⁄2" wallboard on both sides; insulated 39 both sides; insulated
• Staggered-stud 2 × 4 wall; 5⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard on 50 Wood-frame Floor/Ceiling

each side; insulated • Wallboard below; subfloor and resilient (vinyl) flooring 32
above
• 2 × 4 wall, soundproofing board (base layer) and 50
5
⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard on each side; insulated • 5⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard attached to resilient steel 48
channels below; subfloor, pad, and carpet above
• 2 × 4 wall with resilient steel channels on one side; 52
5
⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard on both sides; insulated • Double layer 5⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard attached to Up to 60
resilient steel channels below; subfloor, pad, and
carpet above
*All assemblies are sealed with caulk, except where noted. Ratings are approximate.
Tips for Reducing Exterior Noise
Install weatherstripping on doors and windows to seal off Add storm doors and windows to minimize air leaks and Seal around pipes, A/C service lines, vents, and other pene-
any air leaks. If the wall framing around the door or window create an additional sound barrier. Use high-performance trations in exterior walls, using expanding foam or caulk.
is exposed, make sure all cavities are filled with loosely (airtight) storm units and maintain a 2" air gap between the Make sure through-wall A/C units are well sealed along their
packed insulation. storm and the primary unit. perimeters.
Walls & Ceilings/ Soundproofing 221

Walls & Ceilings
Tips for Reducing Interior Noise
Stop airflow between rooms by sealing the joints where walls Cover switch and receptacle boxes with foam gaskets to Soundproof doors by adding a sweep at the bottom and
meet floors. With finished walls, remove the shoe molding and prevent air leaks. Otherwise, seal around the box perimeter weatherstripping along the stops (top). If doors are hollow-
spray insulating foam, acoustic sealant, or nonhardening with acoustic sealant or caulk and seal around the knockout core, replacing them with solid-core units will increase
caulk under the baseboards. Also seal around door casings. where the cables enter the box. soundproofing performance. Soundproof workshop and utility-
With new walls, seal along the top and bottom plates. room doors with a layer of acoustical tiles (bottom).
Reduce sound transmission through ductwork with special Install cushions made from pieces of foam rubber pipe Also use pieces of foam rubber to silence loose pipes bang-
duct insulation, available at many home centers. If a duct insulation to prevent pipes from banging against wall studs ing or rubbing against joist hangers. Install a water hammer
supplying a quiet room has a takeoff point close to that of a or joists. arrestor (see page 96) to prevent supply pipes from vibrating.
noisy room, move one or both ducts so their takeoff points are
as distant from each other as possible.
222 Walls & Ceilings/ Soundproofing

How to Install Resilient Steel Channels
Joist
Insulation
Joist Channel
5
⁄8" wallboard
Insulation
Resilient Resilient
channel channel
5
⁄8" wallboard
Stud
On ceilings, install channels perpendicular to the joists, spaced 24" on-center. Fasten at each joist with 11⁄4" type-W wallboard On walls, use the same installation techniques as with the
screws, driven through the channel flange. Stop the channels 1" short of all walls. Join pieces on long runs by overlapping the ceiling application, installing the channels horizontally.
ends and fastening through both pieces. Insulate the joist bays with R-11 unfaced fiberglass or other insulation and install 5⁄8" Position the bottom channel 2" from the floor and the top
fire-resistant wallboard, run perpendicular to the channels. For double-layer application, install the second layer of wallboard channel within 6" of the ceiling. Insulate the stud cavities and
perpendicular to the first. install the wallboard vertically.
How to Build Staggered-stud Partition Walls
Frame new partition walls using 2 × 6 plates. Space the studs 12" apart, staggering them so Weave R-11 unfaced fiberglass blanket insulation horizontally between the studs. Cover each
alternate studs are aligned with opposite sides of the plates. Seal under and above the plates side with one or more layers of 5⁄8" fire-resistant wallboard.
with acoustic sealant or caulk.
Walls & Ceilings/ Soundproofing 223

Walls & Ceilings
Installing & Finishing Wallboard
Wallboard—also called drywall, gypsum board, and Sheetrock—is
commonly available in 4 × 8-ft. and 4 × 12-ft. panels, in thicknesses
ranging from 1⁄4" to 3⁄4". The panels are tapered along the long edges so
that adjoining panels form a slightly recessed seam that you finish with
paper tape and joint compound. End-to-end joints are more difficult to
finish, so avoid end-butted seams whenever possible. To minimize the
number of joints that need finishing, use the longest panels you can
safely handle; just make sure you can get them into the workspace.
Use 1⁄2"- or 5⁄8"-thick panels on ceilings. Thinner panels are lighter
and easier to work with, but 5⁄8" wallboard provides better sound insu-
lation and is less likely to sag over time. Use 1⁄2" panels on walls. Install
wallboard on the ceiling first, then finish the walls, butting the wall
panels snug against the ceiling panels to give them extra support.
Unless you’re experienced at finishing wallboard, start your finishing
in inconspicuous areas. Take the time to make sure your joints are flat
and smooth, as paint does little to hide imperfections.
Tools: T-square; utility knife; jig saw; wallboard rasp; wallboard

compass; chalk line; wallboard lift (available at rental centers);
drill or screwgun; wallboard lifter; 4-ft. level; aviation snips; 4",
6", 10", and 12" wallboard knives; mud pan; screwdriver; pole
sander or hand sander; sanding sponge.
Materials: Wallboard, 11⁄4" wallboard screws, corner bead, joint
tape, joint compound, 150-grit sandpaper or 220-grit screen.
Planning a Wallboard Layout

Stagger joints
Break over
middle of
openings
Tapered
edge seams
Note utility
lines for
reference
Wallboard seams must fall on the centers of framing members, so measure the framing when don’t fall on the same member. Don’t place seams over the corners of doors, windows, and other
planning your layout. Use long sheets to span an entire wall, or hang sheets vertically. Avoid openings: joints here often crack or cause bulges that interfere with trim. Where framing contains
butted end joints whenever possible; where they do occur, stagger them between rows so they utility lines, draw a map for future reference, noting locations of wiring, pipes, and shutoff valves.
224 Walls & Ceilings/ Wallboard

Tips for Wallboard Preparation
Protector
plate
11⁄4"
or less
Add backing to support panel edges that won’t fall over Use plywood strips to join panel edges in problem areas Install protector plates where wires or pipes pass through
framing. When installing new panels next to an existing between framing, creating a floating seam. This method does framing members and are less than 11⁄4" from the front edge.
wall surface, or where the framing layout doesn’t coincide not provide a substitute for structural backing; the panels The plates keep wallboard screws from puncturing wires or
with the wallboard edges, it’s often easiest to add an extra still must be supported by framing or blocking at the pre- pipes.
stud for backing. See page 371 to 372 for adding backing on scribed intervals.
foundation walls.
Joist
Joist
1 × 3 furring Wallboard 2 × 3 furring

strips laid flat strips laid flat
Joist
2 × 3 strips
installed on edge
Attach furring strips where service lines and other obstacles project beyond the framing. The strips create a flat surface for Wrap cold-water pipes along the ceiling with foam insulation
attaching wallboard and can also be used to compensate for uneven joists. Use 1 × 3 or 2 × 3 furring strips and attach them before covering them with wallboard. This prevents conden-
perpendicularly to the framing with wallboard screws. Space the strips 16" on-center and use wood shims secured behind the sation on the pipes that can drip onto the wallboard and cause
strips to adjust for unevenness. See page 257 for furring strip installation. staining.
Walls & Ceilings/ Wallboard 225

Walls & Ceilings
Cutting Wallboard: Straight Cuts
A B C
To make vertical cuts, set the wallboard panel against a wall Bend the scored section backward with both hands to break Variation: Make horizontal cuts using a tape measure and
with the face out. Mark the length on the face, then set a the gypsum core. Fold back the waste piece, and cut through utility knife. With one hand, hold the knife blade at the end
T-square at the mark. Hold the square in place with your the back paper with the utility knife. of the tape. With the other hand, grip the tape at the desired
hand and foot, and cut through the face paper, using a measurement—slide this hand along the panel edge as you
utility knife. make the cut.
D E
Smooth rough edges with a wallboard rasp. One or two passes with the rasp should be suffi- Tip: Where untapered panel ends will be butted together, bevel-cut the outside edges of each
cient. To help fit a piece into a tight space, bevel the edge slightly toward the back of the panel at 45°, removing about 1⁄8" of material. This helps prevent the paper from creating a
panel. ridge along the seam. Peel off any loose paper from the edge.

Cutting Wallboard: Notches
For large notches or long, straight cuts, use a large wallboard saw. These saws are also Standard or wallboard routers are handy for cutting holes for electrical boxes and open-
handy for cutting out door and window openings after the wallboard is attached to the wall. ings. You can use a router made for the purpose or outfit a standard router by removing the
Make notches by sawing down to the bottom of the notch on both sides, then use a utility router base and installing a piloted wallboard bit (inset; typically a 1⁄4" shank). Always work
knife to cut the face paper along the bottom of the notch. Snap the waste piece backward to clockwise when cutting along the inside of a frame; counterclockwise when following the out-
break the core, then cut through the back paper. side of an object, like an electrical box.
Cutting Wallboard: Holes
To make round cutouts, use a compass to mark the circle on the panel face, then use a small A wallboard compass makes clean circular cutouts. Mark the centerpoint of the cutout, then
wallboard saw to make the cut. Force the pointed end of the saw through the panel from the set the compass point on the mark. Press down and rotate the compass wheel to score
face side and saw along the marked line. (These saws work well for all internal cuts.) through the face paper. Tap a nail through the centerpoint to mark the other side. Score the
back paper, then knock out the hole through the front side with a hammer.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Wallboard on Ceilings
A B
Snap a chalk line perpendicular to the joists, 481⁄8" from the starting wall. Measure to make sure the first panel will break on the center of a joist. If necessary, cut the
panel on the end that abuts the side wall so the panel breaks on the next farthest joist. Load
the panel onto a rented wallboard lift, or use a helper, and lift the panel flat against the joists.
C D
Position the panel with the leading edge on the chalk line After the first row of panels is installed, begin the next row Tip: Wallboard stilts bring you within reach of ceilings, so you
and the end centered on a joist. Fasten the panel with 11⁄4" with a half-panel. This ensures that the butted end joints will can fasten and finish the wallboard without a ladder. Stilts
coarse-thread wallboard screws driven every 8" along the be staggered between rows. are commonly available at rental centers and are surpris-
ends or edges and every 12" in the field. ingly easy to use.

Installing Wallboard on Walls
A B C
Measure from the wall end or corner to make sure the first Lift the first panel tight against the ceiling, using a wallboard Install the remaining panels, butting the sides together. Avoid
panel will break on the center of a stud. If necessary, trim the lifter or pry bar, and make sure the side edge is centered on a placing tapered edges at outside corners, which makes them
sheet on the side or end that will be placed in the corner. If stud. Fasten the panel with 11⁄4" coarse-thread screws (for difficult to finish. If you’re running the panels horizontally, set
you’re installing the panels vertically, cut each panel so it’s 1⁄2" wood framing), driving one every 8" along the edges and the bottom row tight to the upper row, leaving a 1⁄2" gap at
shorter than the ceiling height. Mark the stud centers on the every 12" in the field of the panel—don’t fasten along the the floor. At joints where untapered panel edges are butted,
panel face to facilitate fastening. leading edge until the abutting panel is in place. leave a 1⁄8" gap between panels.
TIP
With their bugle-shaped heads, wallboard screws are designed to
dimple the surface of wallboard without ripping the face paper. All
wallboard fasteners must be recessed to provide a space for the fin-
ishing compound. However, driving the fastener too far and
breaking the paper renders the fastener useless. If this happens,
drive another fastener about 2" from the first.
As you make the first pass in the finishing process, keep a screw-
driver in your pocket for driving any screws that aren’t recessed.
Install in this
direction
Variation: When working with steel studs, follow this procedure to avoid uneven seams:
install the first sheet from the direction of the open stud faces. Fasten in the field and along
the edges completely before installing the adjacent sheet. Where appropriate, drive screws
close to the closed edge of each stud. For 1⁄2" or 5⁄8" wallboard, use 1" fine-thread screws.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Wallboard on Curved Walls & Arches
Seams
Use two layers of 1⁄4" flexible wallboard for curved walls and arches. If the radius of the Start at the center for concave curves. Cut the first panel a little long and position it length-
curve is less than 32", dampen the panels before installing them (see below). The minimum wise along the wall. Carefully bend the panel toward the midpoint of the curve and fasten it
radius for inside (concave) curves is 20"; the minimum for outside (convex) curves is 15". If to the center stud. Work toward the ends to fasten the rest of the panel. Install the second
there are butted seams, stagger the seams between layers. NOTE: Bending limitations may panel over the first, then trim along the top of the wall with a wallboard saw.
vary by manufacturer.
Start at one end for convex curves. Cut the panel long and Dampen panels for tight curves. Apply water to the side that Finish curved edges with flexible vinyl corner bead, which
fasten it lengthwise along the wall, bending the panel as you will be under tension (the face for convex curves; the back has one segmented flange that allows it to bend. Install the
work. Add the second layer, then trim both to the framing. To side for concave). Use about 30 oz. of water for a 4 × 8-ft. bead as you would standard corner bead (see page 232), but
cover the top of a curved wall, set a 1⁄2" panel on the wall and panel. Stack the panels with their wet sides together, and let drive a screw every 2". To substitute for flexible bead, snip one
scribe it from below. them sit for an hour before installing them. flange of standard bead at 1" intervals.

Finishing Wallboard: Butt Joints
A B C
Apply an even bed layer of wallboard com- Center the joint tape over the seam and Smooth the tape with the taping knife. Apply enough pressure to force compound from
pound over the joint, about 1⁄8" thick, using a lightly embed it into the compound, making underneath the tape, leaving the tape flat and with a thin layer underneath. Cover all
6" taping knife. sure it’s smooth and straight. exposed screw heads with the first of three coats of compound (inset). Let compound dry
overnight.
D E
Second-coat the seams with a thin, even layer of compound, After feathering both sides, make a pass down the center of Variation: To use self-adhesive mesh tape on seams, apply the
using a 12" knife. Feather the sides of the compound first, the seam, leaving the seam smooth and even, the sides feath- tape over the seam center so it’s straight and flat. Coat the
holding the blade almost flat and applying pressure to the ered out even with the wallboard surface. Completely cover tape with an even layer of compound, about 1⁄8" thick, using
outside of the blade so the blade just skims over the center the joint tape. Let the second coat dry, then apply a third a 6" taping knife. Smooth the joint with a 10" or 12" knife,
of the seam. coat, using the 12" knife. After the third coat dries completely, removing excess compound so that only the recessed seam is
sand the compound lightly (see page 233). covered.

Walls & Ceilings
Finishing Wallboard: Inside Corners
A B
Fold precreased paper tape in half to create a 90° angle. Embed the tape into the compound, using your fingers and Variation: Paper-faced metal inside corner bead (inset)
Apply an even layer of joint compound, about 1⁄8" thick and the knife. Carefully smooth and flatten both sides of the tape, produces straight, durable corners with little fuss. To install
4" wide, to both sides of the corner, using a 4" or 6" knife. removing excess compound to leave only a thin layer beneath. the bead, embed it into a thin layer of compound, then
Make sure the center is straight. smooth the paper, as with a paper-tape inside corner.
Finishing Wallboard: Outside Corners

A B
Cut metal corner bead to length, leaving a 1⁄2" gap at the Finish outside corner bead with a 6" knife. Apply the com- Variation: To install paper-faced outside corner bead, spread
floor. Center the raised spine over the corner with the flanges pound while dragging the knife along the raised spine of the an even layer of compound on each side of the corner, using
flat against both walls. Starting at the top, fasten the flanges bead. Make a second pass to feather the outside edge of the a 6" taping knife. Press the bead into the compound and
with 11⁄4" wallboard screws, driven every 9" and 1⁄4" from the compound, then a third dragging along the bead again. smooth the paper flanges with the knife.
edge. Alternate sides with each screw to keep the bead cen- Smooth any areas where the corner bead meets taped cor-
tered. The screws must not project beyond the raised spine. ners or seams.

Finishing Wallboard: Flat Taping
A B
Trim any loose paper along the wallboard edge with a utility knife. If the gap between the Cover the tape with a 4"-wide layer of setting-type or premixed taping compound. Smooth
wallboard and the object is wider than 1⁄4", fill it with joint compound and let it dry. Cover the the joint, leaving just enough compound to conceal the tape. Let the first coat dry completely,
joint with self-adhesive mesh joint tape, butting the tape’s edge against the object without then add two more thin coats, using a 6" taping knife. Feather the outside edge of the joint
overlapping the object. to nothing.
Sanding the Finished Work

A B
Lightly sand all joints, using a hand or pole sander with 220- To avoid damage or oversanding, use a 150-grit sanding Variation: Wet sanding is a dust-free alternative to dry sand-
grit sanding screen or 150-grit sandpaper. Work in the sponge to sand inside corners. Fine-sand the seams and ing. Use a high-density, small-cell polyurethane sponge made
direction of the joints, smoothing transitions and high areas. screws with a sponge or hand sander, feeling for defects with for wet sanding. Saturate the sponge with cool, clean water,
Don’t sand out depressions; fill them with compound and your hand. Use a bright light to highlight problem areas. and wring it out just enough so it doesn’t drip. Swipe joints
resand. Be careful not to oversand or expose joint tape. Remove dust from the panels with dry towel or soft broom. and corners in the direction they run, and rinse the sponge
frequently. Sponge as little as possible, to avoid streaking.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Cementboard
Use tile backer board as the substrate for tile walls in wet areas. Unlike
wallboard, tile backer won’t break down and cause damage if water gets
behind the tile. The three basic types of tile backer are cementboard,
fiber-cement board, and Dens-Shield.
Though water cannot damage either cementboard or fiber-cement
Cementboard board, it can pass through them. To protect the framing members,
install a water barrier of 4-mil plastic or 15# building paper behind the
backer.
Dens-Shield has a waterproof acrylic facing that provides the water
barrier. It cuts and installs much like wallboard but requires galvanized
Fiber-cement screws to prevent corrosion, and must be sealed with caulk at all
board untaped joints and penetrations.
Tools: T-square, utility knife, drill with a small masonry bit,

hammer, jig saw with a bimetal blade, wallboard knife.
Dens-Shield Materials: 4-mil plastic sheeting, cementboard, 11⁄4" cement-
board screws, cementboard joint tape, latex-portland cement
mortar.
Common tile backers are cementboard, fiber-cement board, and Dens-Shield. Cementboard
is made from portland cement and sand reinforced by an outer layer of fiberglass mesh.
Fiber-cement board is made similarly, but with a fiber reinforcement integrated throughout
the panel. Dens-Shield is a water-resistant gypsum board with a waterproof acrylic facing.
A B C
Staple a water barrier of 4-mil plastic sheeting or 15# build- Cut cementboard by scoring through the mesh just below Make cutouts for pipes and other penetrations by drilling a
ing paper over the framing. Overlap seams by several inches, the surface, using a utility knife or carbide-tipped cutter. series of holes through the board, using a small masonry bit.
and leave the sheets long at the perimeter. NOTE: Framing for Snap the panel back, then cut through the backside mesh Tap the hole out with a hammer or a scrap of pipe. Cut holes
cementboard must be 16" on-center; steel studs must be 20- (inset). NOTE: For tile applications, the rough face of the along edges with a jig saw and bimetal blade.
gauge. board is the front.
234 Walls & Ceilings/ Cementboard

D E
Install the sheets horizontally. Where possible, use full pieces to avoid cut-and-butted seams, which are difficult to fasten. If Cover the joints and corners with cementboard joint tape
there are vertical seams, stagger them between rows. Leave a 1⁄8" gap between sheets at vertical seams and corners. Use spacers (alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh) and latex-portland cement
to set the bottom row of panels 1⁄4” above the tub or shower base. Fasten the sheets with 11⁄4" cementboard screws, driven every mortar (thin-set). Apply a layer of mortar with a wallboard
8" for walls and every 6" for ceilings. Drive the screws 1⁄2" from the edges to prevent crumbling. If the studs are steel, don’t fas- knife, embed the tape into the mortar, then smooth and level
ten within 1" of the top track. the mortar.
Patching Plaster Patching Holes Cut in Plaster

A B
Remodeling projects involving wiring often
require cutting holes in finished walls to sim-
plify the installation of new cables and fixtures
(see pages 129 and 545). If you own an older
home with plaster walls, install wire mesh to
patch the missing lath, then patch the hole
using patching plaster or an all-purpose
spackle, available at home centers.
Use a latex bonding liquid to ensure a good
bond and a tight, crack-free patch. Bonding
liquid also eliminates the need to wet the plas-
ter and lath to prevent premature drying and
shrinkage, which could ruin the patch job.
Tools: Aviation snips, wallboard knives,

paintbrush. Cut a piece of wire mesh larger than the hole, using aviation Apply a coat of patching plaster, forcing it into the mesh and
snips. Tie a length of twine at the center of the mesh and covering the edges of the hole. Scratch a cross-hatch pattern
Materials: Wire mesh, length of wire, insert the mesh into the wall cavity. Twist the wire around a in the wet plaster, then allow it to dry. Remove the dowel and
wooden dowel, latex bonding liquid, dowel that is longer than the width of the hole, until the trim the wire holding the mesh. Apply a second coat, filling
patching plaster or all-purpose spackle, mesh pulls tight against the opening. Apply latex bonding the hole completely. Add texture (see 236). Let dry, then scrape
primer and paint. liquid to the mesh and the edges of the hole. away any excess plaster. Sand, prime, and paint the area.
Walls & Ceilings/ Plaster 235

Walls & Ceilings
Texturing Walls
A
& Ceilings
With a little creativity, you can recreate almost B C
any texture using texture paint or diluted wall-
board joint compound. Texture paints come in
various thicknesses, and some contain additives,
such as sand and polystyrene beads, for spe-
cific effects. Aerosol cans and hand-operated
pump guns make it easy to create modern tex- D
tures without special spray equipment. You
E
can leave a texture paint as-is or apply a top
coat of a different color. Like other paints,
texture paints may not cover all stains, so
prime the surface before you paint it.
Practice texturing on a sheet of cardboard or F
wallboard, and try different tools (or your G
H
hands) and material thicknesses until you find
the right combination. Whatever the design,
apply it carefully but with confidence; a tenta-
tive, sketchy texture job will be more
noticeable than one done with bold strokes.
Remember, you can always scrape it off while Tools & materials for texturing include: spray-on texture (A), all-purpose wallboard joint compound (B), texture paint
it’s still wet and start over. (C), texture roller (D), whisk broom (E), wallboard knife (F), sponge (G), and trowel (H).
Tips for Texturing
Use a whisk broom for various lined patterns. Apply the tex- Smooth a trowel or a wallboard knife over a partially dried Dilute wallboard joint compound with water, and apply it
ture material with a paint roller, then create the pattern with texture for a “knockdown” effect. with a texture roller or any other tool.
the broom.
236 Walls & Ceilings/ Texture

Installing Ceramic Wall Tile
Ceramic wall tile is one of the most durable available to help you customize your project.
surface materials for walls and ceilings. It’s Most wall tile is designed to have narrow Tools: Tile-cutting tools (pages 207 to
popular in bathrooms and other wet areas grout lines (less than 1⁄8" wide) filled with 209), marker, tape measure, 4-ft. level,
because it’s virtually impervious to water and unsanded grout. Grout lines wider than 1⁄8" notched trowel, mallet, grout float,
easy to clean. However, a tiled surface surround should be filled with sanded floor-tile grout. sponge, small paintbrush, caulk gun.
for a bathtub or shower must be prepared Either type will last longer if it contains, or is Materials: Straight 1 × 2, thin-set tile
using the proper materials to ensure that the mixed with, a latex additive. To prevent stain- mortar with latex additive, ceramic wall
wall system will be protected if water does get ing, it’s a good idea to seal your grout after it tile, ceramic trim tile (as needed), 2 × 4,
through the surface. fully cures, then once a year thereafter. carpet scrap, tile grout with latex addi-
Install tile over cementboard (see pages 234 If you plan to tile all the walls in your bath- tive, tub & tile caulk, alkaline grout
to 235). Made from cement and fiberglass, room, you can use standard wallboard or sealer, cardboard.
cementboard cannot be damaged by water, water-resistant wallboard (called “greenboard”)
though moisture can pass through it. To pro- as a backer for walls in dry areas. See page 243
tect the framing, install a waterproof for information on laying out full rooms.
membrane, such as roofing felt or polyethylene
sheeting, between the framing members and
the cementboard. Be sure to tape and finish
the seams between cementboard panels before
laying the tile.
When shopping for tile, keep in mind that
tiles that are at least 6 × 6" are easier to install
than small tile, because they require less cutting
and cover more surface area. Larger tiles also
have fewer grout lines that must be cleaned and
maintained. Check out the selection of trim and
specialty tiles and ceramic accessories that are
A
B
Choose moisture-resistant backing material. Water-resis-

tant wallboard (A), or greenboard, is made from gypsum
and has a water-resistant facing. Use it only in moderately
damp or dry areas. Cementboard (B) is a rigid material
with a fiberglass facing and a cement core. Because water
does not damage cementboard, use it as a tile backer in
bathtub and shower surrounds.
Walls & Ceilings/ Ceramic Tile 237

Walls & Ceilings
Marking a Layout for Wall Tile in a Bathtub Alcove
A B
Tile
height
Make a story pole to mark the tile layout on walls. For square tiles, set a row of tiles (and plas- Beginning with the back wall, measure up and mark a point at a distance equal to the height
tic spacers, if they will be used) in the selected pattern on a flat surface. Mark a straight of one ceramic tile (if the tub edge is not level, measure up from the lowest spot). Draw a level
1 × 2 to match the tile spacing. Include any narrow trim tiles or accent tiles. For rectangular line through this point, along the entire back wall. This line represents a tile grout line and
and odd-shaped tiles, make separate sticks for the horizontal and vertical layouts. will be used as a reference line for making the entire tile layout.
C D
Vertical ref-
erence line
Horizontal
reference line
Midpoint
Original
midpoint
Adjusted
midpoint
Measure and mark the midpoint on the horizontal reference line. Using the story pole, mark Use a level to draw a vertical reference line through the adjusted midpoint from the tub edge
along the reference line where the vertical grout joints will be located. If the story pole shows to the ceiling. Measure up from the tub edge along the vertical reference line and mark the
that the corner tiles will be less than half of a full tile width, move the midpoint half the width rough height of the top row of tiles.
of a tile in either direction and mark (shown in next step).
238 Walls & Ceilings/ Ceramic Tile

E F Adjusted horizontal
reference line
Use the story pole to mark the horizontal grout joints along the vertical reference line, begin- Use a level to draw an adjusted horizontal reference line through the vertical reference line at
ning at the mark for the top row of tiles. If the cut tiles at the tub edge will be less than half the a grout joint mark close to the center of the layout. This splits the tile area into four workable
height of a full tile, move the top row up half the height of a tile. NOTE: If tiling to a ceiling, evenly quadrants.
divide the tiles to be cut at the ceiling and tub edge, as for the corner tiles in steps C and D.
Tile shown
installed for clarity
Use a level to transfer the adjusted horizontal reference line from the back wall to both side Variation: To wrap the final column of tile around the outside edge of the bathtub, begin
walls, then follow step C through step F to lay out both side walls. Adjust the layout as needed your layout on a side wall. Make adjustments based on the tile to be notch-cut for the edge
so the final column of tiles ends at the outside edge of the tub. Use only the adjusted hori- of the bathtub—the tile should be at least half a tile width and height. Transfer the adjusted
zontal and vertical reference lines for ceramic tile installation (pages 240 to 242). horizontal reference line to the other walls and finish the layout.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Ceramic Wall Tile in a Bathtub Alcove
A B
Mark the tile layout (pages 238 to 239). Mix a small batch of thin-set mortar containing a Use the edge of the trowel to create furrows in the mortar. Set the first tile in the corner of the
latex additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the manufacturer and some must have quadrant where the lines intersect, using a slight twisting motion. Align the tile exactly with
additive mixed separately.) Spread adhesive on a small section of the wall, along both legs of both reference lines. When placing cut tiles, position the cut edges where they will be least
one quadrant, using a 1⁄4" notched trowel. visible.
Continue installing tiles, working from the center out into the field of the quadrant. Keep the tiles aligned with the reference Variation: In some instances it is more practical to apply
lines and tile in one quadrant at a time. If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers inserted in the corner joints to mortar to the tile rather than the wall. Cover the back of the
maintain even grout lines (inset). The base row against the tub edge should be the last row of tiles installed. To cut tiles at tile with mortar, then press the tile in position with a slight
inside corners, see step E on the opposite page. twisting motion.

D E
As small sections are completed, set the tile by laying a scrap of 2 × 4 wrapped with carpet To mark tiles for straight cuts, begin by taping 1⁄8"-thick spacers against the surfaces below
onto the tile and rapping it lightly with a mallet. This embeds the tile solidly in the adhesive and to the side of the tile. Position a tile directly over the last full tile installed (A), then place
and creates a flat, even surface. a third tile so the edge butts against the spacers (B). Trace the edge of the top tile onto the
middle tile to mark it for cutting.
F G
Install trim tiles, such as the bullnose tiles shown above, at border areas. Wipe away excess Mark and cut tiles to fit around all plumbing accessories or plumbing fixtures. Refer to pages
mortar along the top edges of the edge tiles. 308 to 309 for tile cutting techniques.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Ceramic Wall Tile in a Bathtub Alcove (cont.)
H I
Install any ceramic accessories, such as soap dishes, by applying thin-set mortar to the back Let mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hours), then mix a batch of grout containing latex addi-
side, then pressing the accessory into place. Use masking tape to support the weight until the tive. Apply the grout with a rubber grout float, using a sweeping motion, and hold at a 30°
mortar dries (inset). angle to force it deep into the joints (see page 312). Do not grout the joints adjoining the bath-
tub, floor, and corners. These will serve as expansion joints and will be caulked later.
J K L
Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over the tiles, rinsing When the grout has cured completely, use a small foam brush Fill the tub with water, then seal expansion joints around the
the sponge between wipes. Wipe each area only once; to apply grout sealer to the joints, following the manufac- bathtub, floor, and corners with silicone caulk. After the caulk
repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints. Allow the turer’s directions. Avoid brushing sealer on the tile surfaces, dries, buff the tile with a dry, soft cloth.
grout to dry for about 4 hours, then buff the tile surface with and wipe up excess sealer immediately.
a soft cloth to remove any remaining grout film.

Variation: Tiling Bathroom Walls
Tiles at each end of the

Layout adjusted so the row of same wall should be cut
accent tiles is unbroken by to a similar size.
medicine cabinet.
Tiles above tub should be full

Row of trimmed tiles should be size or nearly full size.
positioned near the top and
bottom of tiled area to make
them less obvious.
Tiling an entire bathroom requires careful planning. The bathroom shown here row up from the floor. The short second row also allows the row of accent tiles
was designed so that the tiles directly above the bathtub (the most visible sur- to run uninterrupted below the medicine cabinet. Cut tiles in both corners
face) are nearly full height. To accomplish this, cut tiles were used in the second should be of similar width to maintain a symmetrical look in the room.
Bullnose
Cut tile border tile
Cementboard
Greenboard Accent panels
tile
Vertical
Cabinet reference
outlines lines
Original Vertical
reference reference
line lines
Cut tile
Adjusted reference line
The key to a successful wall-tile project is the layout. Mark the wall to show the in the room. After establishing the working reference lines, mark additional ver-
planned location of all wall cabinets, fixtures, and wall accessories, then locate tical reference lines on the walls every five to six tile spaces along the ad-
the most visible horizontal line in the bathroom, which is usually the top edge justed horizontal reference line to split large walls into smaller, workable quad-
of the bathtub. Follow steps on pages 238 to 239 to establish the layout, using rants, then install the tile (pages 240 to 242). NOTE: Premixed, latex mastic
a story pole to see how the tile pattern will run in relation to the other features adhesives generally are acceptable for wall tile in dry areas.

Walls & Ceilings
Adding a Wainscot
A wainscot, by definition, is a wall treatment covering the lower portion
of a wall. Virtually any material can be used as wainscoting, but the most
common by far is wood. In most applications, the wainscot is covered
along the bottom by a baseboard and along the top by a cap molding,
rail, or shallow shelf.
Wainscots are useful not only for decoration but also as protective
surfaces. Standard wainscot heights are between 32" and 36", a range at
which the top cap can serve as a chair rail to protect the wall from fur-
niture collisions. In hallways, mudrooms, and other functional areas,
wainscots may run 48" and higher.
Wood wainscoting is available in a variety of species and styles. For
price and ease of installation, the best types for do-it-yourselfers are
4 × 8-ft. sheets and tongue-and-groove boards, commonly called bead-
board. Standard materials include paint-grade pine (and other
softwoods); hardwood veneers, such as oak and birch; molded poly-
mers; and fiberboard.
There are two basic methods for installing wainscoting. Sheets and
thinner boards (up to 3⁄8", in most cases) can be attached to wallboard with
construction adhesive and nails, or with nails alone. Thicker boards
usually must be nailed, preferably blind-nailed—the technique of driving
angled nails along the base of the tongue so the groove of the next board
hides the nail heads. Thinner boards may have to be facenailed to avoid
splitting the wood.
Wainscoting that is fastened only with nails must have blocking or
backing to serve as a nailing surface. If the framing is exposed, you can
install plywood backing over the wall studs in the area of the wainscot,
then cover the rest of the wall with wallboard of the same thickness
(make sure the local building code permits installing wood directly over
wall framing). You can also install 2 × 4 blocks between the studs, at
12" to 16" intervals, before hanging the wallboard.
The project on pages 245 to 246 shows you how to install a tall wain-
scot of sheet paneling with a traditional molding treatment. A rail made
from 1 × 6 clear pine runs along the top edge of paneling and is topped
by a 1 × 3 pine cap with custom edges you mill with a router. Because
of its height (60") and tall baseboard, this wainscot is especially suited
to mudroom or hallway walls that receive some abuse, but it can work
well in bathrooms and other areas. You can install hooks for coats (or
towels) along the rail or add a shelf for additional storage.
Tools: Chalk line, level, circular saw, caulk gun, drill, router with
roundover bit, power miter saw, hammer, nail set.
Materials: Sheet paneling; construction adhesive; 10d, 6d, and
2d finish nails; 1 × 6 and 1 × 3 clear pine lumber; wood glue;
cove molding; baseboard.
244 Walls & Ceilings/ Wainscot

Installing a Wainscot with Sheet Paneling
A B
Measure up from the floor and snap a chalk line to represent the top of the paneling. This line Check the wall corner with a level to make sure it’s plumb. If it’s not plumb, scribe the first
will be 3⁄4" lower than the overall height of the wainscot. Use a pencil to mark the stud loca- sheet to follow the angle or contours of the wall (see Tip, page 247). Cut the first sheet to
tions about 1" above the chalk line (see page 263). Measure the length of the wall to plan the length so its bottom edge will be 1⁄2" above the floor, using a circular saw. Unless you’ve scribed
layout of the sheets. The last piece should be at least 3" wide, so you may have to trim the the sheet, cut from the back side to prevent splintering on the face. Using a caulk gun, apply
first sheet to make the last piece wider. construction adhesive to the back side.
C D
Apply the sheet to the wall so its top edge is flush with the chalk line and its side edge is set Install the remaining sheets in the wall section. If you are paneling an adjacent wall, check
into the corner. Press the sheet firmly to bond it to the wall. Drive 6d finish nails at the stud the paneled wall for plumb, and trim the first sheet, if necessary. Install the sheet butted
locations, spacing them every 16", or so. Use only as many nails as needed to hold the sheet against the end sheet on the paneled wall.
flat and to keep it in place.
Walls & Ceilings/ Wainscot 245

Walls & Ceilings
Installing a Wainscot with Sheet Paneling (cont.)
E F
Prepare the 1 × 6 rail material by sanding smooth the front face and bottom edge. If desired, Mill the 1 × 3 top cap material, using a router and roundover bit. Work on test pieces to find
round over the bottom, outside corner slightly with sandpaper. Install the rail with its top edge the desired amount of roundover, then rout your workpieces on both front corners. Sand the
flush with the chalk line, fastening it to each stud with two 10d finish nails driven through cap smooth. OPTION: Create a waterfall edge by rounding over only the top edge of the cap
pilot holes. Butt together rail pieces at inside corners, and miter them at outside corners, fol- (top inset), or chamfer the front edges with a chamfer bit (bottom inset).
lowing the same techniques used for cutting and fitting trim (see pages 263 to 266).
G H Rail
Cove molding
1×6
shelf
Bracket
Wainscoting
Shown in Cross section
Install the cap with wood glue and finish nails. Glue along Add cove molding to the joint between the cap and rail, fas- Variation: Top your wainscot with a shelf rather than a cap.
the top edge of the rail and drive a 10d finish nail, angled at tening it to the rail with 2d finish nails. Install the baseboard Use 1 × 6 or wider boards, and mill them as shown in step F.
45°, through the cap and into each stud (drill pilot holes for along the bottom of the wainscot (see pages 263 to 266). Set To support the shelf, add wooden brackets fastened to the
the nails). Miter the rail at corners. all nails with a nail set (see page 266). wall studs.
246 Walls & Ceilings/ Wainscot

Tips for Installing Tongue-&-Groove Wainscoting
B B
A A
Begin your installation at the corners, either inside (A) or outside (B). Use the reveal dimension (see pages 248 to 249) to Check corners for plumb. If a corner isn’t plumb, scribe and
calculate the number of boards required for each wall: divide the length of the wall by the reveal, keeping in mind that a trim the first board to fit. At inside corners, use a level to hold
side edge may have to be trimmed from one or more of the corner boards. If the total number of boards includes a fraction the board plumb, then use a compass to transfer the con-
of less than half a board, plan to trim the first board to avoid ending with a board cut to less than half its original width. tours of the wall to the board. At outside corners, overhang
the wall edge and scribe along the board’s back side.
Butted Mitered
Start inside corners (left) by trimming off the tongue edge of the first board, or simply place the groove edge in the corner. Install subsequent boards along the wall, following the
Install the first board, leaving a 1⁄8" expansion gap in the corner. Butt the board on the adjacent wall against the face of the panel manufacturer’s directions regarding expansion gaps
first board. At outside corners (right), join boards with butt joints or miter joints (insets). If necessary, drill pilot holes for the at the joints. Use a level to check every third board for plumb.
nails to prevent splitting. Drive the bottom and top nails where they’ll be hidden by the molding. Set all nails with a nail set. If it’s out of plumb, adjust the fourth board to compensate.
Walls & Ceilings/ Wainscot 247

Walls & Ceilings
Paneling a Ceiling
Tongue-and-groove paneling offers a warm, attractive
finish that’s especially suited to vaulted ceilings. Pine
is the most common material for tongue-and-groove
paneling, but you can choose from many different
wood species and panel styles. Panels are typically 3⁄8"
to 3⁄4" thick and are often attached directly to ceiling
joists and rafters. Some building codes require the
installation of wallboard as a fire stop behind ceiling
paneling if it’s thinner than 1⁄4".
When purchasing paneling, buy enough material to
cover about 15% more square footage than the actual
ceiling size, to allow for waste. Since the tongue por-
tions of panels slip into the grooves of adjacent
pieces, square footage for paneling is based on the
reveal, or the exposed face of the panels after they are
installed.
Tongue-and-groove boards can be attached with
flooring nails or finish nails. Flooring nails hold bet-
ter because they have spiraled shanks, but they tend
to have larger heads than finish nails. Whenever pos-
sible, drive the nails through the base of the tongue
and into the framing. This is called blind-nailing,
because the groove of the succeeding board covers the
nail heads. Add face-nails only at joints and in loca-
tions where more support is needed, such as along the
first and last boards. To ensure clean cuts, use a com-
pound miter saw (see page 264). These saws are
especially useful for ceilings with non-90° angles.
Layout is crucial to the success of a paneling pro-
ject. Before you start, measure and calculate how
many boards will be installed, using the reveal mea-
surement. If the final board will be less than 2" wide,
trim the first, or starter, board by cutting the long
edge that abuts the wall. If the ceiling peak is not
parallel to the side (starting) wall, you must compen-
sate for the difference by ripping the starter piece at
an angle. The leading edge of the starter piece, and
every piece thereafter, must be parallel to the peak.
Tools: Chalk line, compound miter saw, circular

saw, drill, hammer, nail set.
Materials: Tongue-and-groove paneling, 13⁄4"
spiral flooring nails, trim molding.
248 Walls & Ceilings/ Paneling

Paneling a Ceiling
A B
Rafters
Reveal
Side wall
To plan your layout, first measure the reveal of the boards. Fit two pieces together and mea- Use the calculation from step A to make a control line indicating the top of the first row of
sure the exposed surface. Calculate the number of boards needed to cover one side of the paneling. At both ends of the ceiling, measure down from the peak an equal distance, and
ceiling by dividing the reveal dimension into the overall distance between the top of one wall make a mark to represent the top (tongue) edges of the starter boards. Snap a chalk line
and the peak of the ceiling. through the marks.
C D
Rafters
Joints
1st board 2nd board
If the boards aren’t long enough to span the entire ceiling, plan the locations of the joints. Rip the first starter board to width by bevel-cutting the bottom (grooved) edge. If the starter
Staggering them in a three-step pattern will make the joints less conspicuous. Note that each row will have joints, cut the board to length using a 30° bevel cut on the joint-end only. Two
joint must fall over the middle of a rafter. For best appearance, select boards of similar col- beveled ends joined together form a scarf joint (inset), which is less noticeable than a butt
oring and grain for each row. joint. If the board spans the ceiling, square-cut both ends.
Walls & Ceilings/ Paneling 249

Walls & Ceilings
Paneling a Ceiling (cont.)
E F
Position the first starter board so the grooved (or cut) edge butts against the side wall and Cut and install any remaining boards in the starter row one at a time, making sure the scarf
the tongue is aligned with the control line. Leave a 1⁄8" gap between the square board end joints fit together tightly. At each scarf joint, drive two nails through the face of the top board,
and the end wall. Fasten the board by nailing through its face about 1" from the grooved angling each nail to capture the end of the board behind it. If necessary, drill pilot holes to
edge and into the rafters. Then, blind-nail through the base of the tongue into each rafter, prevent splitting.
angling the nail backward at 45°. Drive the nail heads beneath the wood surface, using a
nail set.
G H
Cut the first board for the next row, then fit its grooved edge over the tongue of the starter As you install successive rows, measure down from the peak to make sure the rows remain
board. Use a hammer and a scrap piece of paneling to seat the grooved edge over the tongue parallel to the peak. Correct any misalignment by adjusting the tongue-and-groove joint
of the starter board. Fasten the second row of boards with blind-nails only. slightly with each row. You can also snap additional control lines to help you align the rows.
250 Walls & Ceilings/ Paneling

I J
Ridge
board
Panels
Rip the boards for the last row to width, beveling the top edges so they fit flush against Install trim molding along walls, at joints around obstacles, and along inside and outside
the ridge board. Face nail the boards in place. Install paneling on the other side of the corners, if desired. (Select-grade 1 × 2 works well as trim along walls.) Where necessary, bevel
ceiling, then cut and install the final row of paneling to form a closed joint under the ridge the back edges of the trim or miter-cut the ends to accommodate the slope of the ceiling.
board (inset).
Tips for Paneling a Ceiling
Panels
Trim
Collar
tie
Panel
material
Use mitered trim to cover joints where panels meet at outside corners. Dormers and other Wrap collar ties or exposed beams with custom-cut panels. Install the paneling on the ceil-
architectural elements create opposing ceiling angles that can be difficult to work around. It ing first. Then, rip-cut panels to the desired width. You may want to include a
may be easier to butt the panels together and hide the joints with custom-cut trim. The trim tongue-and-groove joint as part of the trim detail. Angle-cut the ends of the trim pieces so
also makes a nice transition between angles. they fit tight to the ceiling paneling.
Walls & Ceilings/ Paneling 251

Walls & Ceilings
Installing a Suspended Ceiling

Suspended ceilings have some advantages over L-shaped wall angles. The grid supports ceil- water-level ends (available at hardware stores
standard ceiling finishes, such as wallboard. ing panels that rest on the flanges of the and home centers) and attaching them to a
Because all of the panels can be removed, vir- framing pieces. Ceiling panels come in 2 × 2- standard garden hose.
tually everything behind a suspended ceiling— ft. or 2 × 4-ft. sections. They’re available in a Although suspended ceilings work well for
plumbing runs, shut-off valves, and wiring—is variety of styles, including insulated panels, hiding mechanicals, it looks best if you build
easily accessible. Suspended ceilings can also acoustical tiles that dampen sound, and light- soffits around low obstacles, such as support
compensate for uneven joists. diffuser panels that are used with fluorescent beams and large ducts (see pages 375 to 377).
One notable disadvantage of suspended ceil- light fixtures. Generally, metal-frame ceiling Finish the soffits with wallboard, and install
ings is that they take up headroom. Typically, systems are more durable than those made of the ceiling wall angle to the soffit.
suspended ceilings should hang about 4" plastic.
below the lowest obstacle to leave enough To begin your ceiling project, determine the
room for installing or removing the panels. ceiling panel layout based on the width and Tools: Water level, chalk line, drill,
Before you decide on using a suspended sys- length of the room. Often, some panels must screw-eye driver, aviation snips, dryline,
tem, measure to determine the finished ceiling be cut to accommodate the room. Place lock-type clamps, pliers, straightedge,
height, and make sure it will comply with trimmed panels on opposite sides of your ceil- utility knife.
local building codes. ing for a balanced look, as when installing Materials: Suspended ceiling kit
A suspended ceiling is a grid framework ceramic tile. You’ll also want to install your (frame), screw eyes, hanger wires, ceil-
made of lightweight metal brackets hung on ceiling so it’s perfectly level. An inexpensive ing panels, 11⁄2" wallboard screws or
wires attached to ceiling or floor joists. The but effective tool for marking a level line masonry nails.
frame consists of T-shaped main beams around a room perimeter is a water level. You
(mains) and cross-tees (tees), and can make a water level by purchasing two
Hanger wire Screw eye Main
Wall angle Tee Panel
252 Walls & Ceilings/ Suspended Ceiling

Tips for Installing a Suspended Ceiling
Wallboard or
Overall room ceiling panel
width Overall room
length
Wall angle
Full panels
1 × valance
Cut border
panels Cut border
panels
Draw your ceiling layout on paper, based on the exact dimensions of the room. Plan so that Build a valance around basement awning windows so they can be opened fully. Attach 1 ×
trimmed border panels on opposite sides of the room are of equal width and length (avoid lumber of an appropriate width to joists or blocking. Install wallboard (or a suspended-
panels smaller than half-size). If you include lighting fixtures in your plan, make sure they fol- ceiling panel trimmed to fit) to the joists inside the valance.
low the grid layout.
Installing a Suspended Ceiling

A B Horizontal
flange
Vertical flange
Vertical
flanges
Mitered end
on lower piece
Make a mark on one wall indicating the ceiling height plus Attach wall angle pieces to the studs on all walls, position- Tip: Trim wall angle pieces to fit around corners. At inside
the height of the wall angle. Use a water level to transfer ing the top of the wall angle flush with the chalk line. Use corners (top), back-cut the vertical flanges slightly, then over-
that mark to both ends of each wall, then snap a chalk line 11⁄2" wallboard screws (on concrete block walls use short lap the horizontal flanges. At outside corners (bottom),
to connect the marks. This line indicates the top of the ceil- masonry nails driven into mortar joints). Cut angle pieces miter-cut one horizontal flange, and overlap the flanges.
ing’s wall angle. using aviation snips.
Walls & Ceilings/ Suspended Ceiling 253

Walls & Ceilings
Installing a Suspended Ceiling (cont.)
C D
Mark the location of each main on the wall angles at the ends of the room. The mains must Install screw eyes for hanging the mains, using a drill and screw-eye driver. Drill pilot holes
be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Set up a guide string for each and drive the eyes into the joists every 4 ft., locating them directly above the guide strings.
main, using a thin dryline and lock-type clamps (inset). Clamp the strings to the opposing Attach hanger wire to the screw eyes by threading one end through the eye and twisting the
wall angles, stretching them very taut so there’s no sagging. wire around itself at least three times. Trim excess wire, leaving a few inches of wire hanging
below the level of the guide string.
E F G
Tee slot
Hanger hole
Web
Flange
Measure the distance from the bottom of a main’s flange to Following your ceiling plan, mark the placement of the first Trim one end of the main so that a tee slot in the main’s web
the hanger hole in the web (inset). Use this measurement to tee on opposite wall angles at one end of the room. Set up a is aligned with the tee guide string and the end of the main
prebend each hanger wire. Measure up from the guide string guide string for the tee, using a dryline and clamps, as bears fully on a wall angle. Set the main in place to check the
and make a 90° bend in the wire, using pliers. before. This string must be perpendicular to the guide strings alignment of the tee slot with the string.
for the mains.
254 Walls & Ceilings/ Suspended Ceiling

H I
Cut the other end of the main to fit, so that it rests on the opposing wall angle. If a single Install each main by setting the ends on the wall angle and threading the hanger wires
main cannot span the room, splice two mains together, end-to-end (the ends should be fash- through the hanger holes in the webs. The wires should be as close to vertical as possible.
ioned with male-female connectors). Make sure the tee slots remain aligned when splicing. Wrap each wire around itself three times, making sure the main’s flange is level with the main
guide string. Also install a hanger near each main splice.
J K
Attach tees to the mains, slipping their tabbed ends into the tee slots on the mains. Align the Place full ceiling panels into the grid first, then install the border panels. Lift the panels in at
first row of tees with the tee guide string; install the remaining rows at 4-ft. intervals. If you’re an angle, and position them so they rest on the frame’s flanges. Reach through adjacent
using 2 × 2-ft. panels, install 2-ft. cross-tees between the midpoints of the 4-ft. tees. Cut and openings to adjust the panels, if necessary. To trim the border panels to size, cut them face-
install the border tees, setting the tee ends on the wall angles. Remove all guide strings and up, using a straightedge and a utility knife (inset).
clamps.
Walls & Ceilings/ Suspended Ceiling 255

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Ceiling Tile

Easy-to-install ceiling tile can lend character to a plain ceiling or help
turn an unfinished basement or attic into beautiful living space. Made
of pressed mineral and fiberboard, ceiling tiles are available in a variety
of styles. They also provide moderate noise reduction.
Ceiling tiles typically can be attached directly to a wallboard or plas-
ter ceiling with adhesive. If your ceiling is damaged or uneven, or if you
have an unfinished joist ceiling, install 1 × 2 furring strips as a base for
the tiles, as shown in this project. Some systems include metal tracks
for clip-on installation.
Unless your ceiling measures in even feet, you won’t be able to install
the 12" tiles without some cutting. To prevent an unattractive installa-
tion with small, irregular tiles along two sides, include a course of
border tiles along the perimeter of the installation. Plan so that tiles at
opposite ends of the room are cut to the same width and are at least
half the width of a full tile.
Most ceiling tile comes prefinished, but it can be painted to match
any decor. For best results, apply two coats of paint using a roller with a
1
⁄4" nap, and wait 24 hours between coats.
Tools: 4-ft. level, stepladder, chalk line, utility knife, straight-

edge, hammer or drill, handsaw, stapler.
Materials: 1 × 2 furring strips, 8d nails or 2" screws, string, ceil-
ing tiles, staples, trim molding.
Create an area rug effect by covering only a portion of the ceiling with tiles. This technique helps to define living areas in Add a faux patina by randomly dabbing the tiles with
open floor plans by breaking up bland expanses of white ceiling. metallic green or blue paint, using a natural sea sponge.
256 Walls & Ceilings/ Ceiling Tile

Installing Ceiling Tile
A B
Measure the ceiling and devise a layout. If the length (or width) doesn’t measure in even feet, use this formula to determine Install the first furring strip flush with the wall and perpen-
the width of the border tiles: add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide by 2. The result is the width of the border dicular to the joists, fastening with two 8d nails or 2" screws at
tile. (For example, if the room length is 15 ft., 4", add 12 to the 4, then divide 16 by 2, which results in an 8" border tile.) each joist. Measure out from the wall a distance equal to the
border tile width minus 3⁄4", and snap a chalk line. Install the
second furring strip with its wall-side edge on the chalk line.
C D
Install the remaining strips 12" on-center from the second strip. Measure from the second strip Check the strips with a 4-ft. level. Insert wood shims between the strips and joists as necessary
and mark the joist nearest the wall every 12". Repeat along the joist on the opposite side of to bring the strips into a level plane.
the room, then snap chalk lines between the marks. Install the furring strips along the lines.
Install the last furring strip flush against the opposite side wall. Stagger the butted end joints
of strips between rows so they aren’t all on the same joist.
Walls & Ceilings/ Ceiling Tile 257

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Ceiling Tile (cont.)
E F
Set up taut, perpendicular string lines along two adjacent walls to help guide the tile instal- Cut the corner border tile to size with a utility knife and straightedge. Cutting the border tiles
lation. Inset the strings from the wall by a distance that equals that wall’s border tile width 1
⁄4" short will ease fitting them. The resulting gap between the tile and wall will be covered by
plus 1⁄2". Use a framing square to make sure the strings are square. trim. Cut only on the edges without the stapling flange.
G H I
Position the corner tile with the flange edges aligned with the Fill in between the border tiles with full-size tiles. Continue work- Install the final row of tiles, saving the far corner tile and its
two string lines and fasten it to the furring strips with four 1⁄2" ing diagonally in this manner, toward the opposite corner. neighbor for last. Cut the last tile to size, then remove the
staples. Cut and install two border tiles along each wall, For the border tiles along the far wall, trim off the flange edges tongue and nailing flange along the side edges. Finish the
making sure the tiles fit snugly together. and staple through the faces of the tiles, close to the wall. job by installing trim along the edges (see pages 262 to 266).
258 Walls & Ceilings/ Ceiling Tile

Installing a Metal Tile Ceiling
Today’s metal ceilings offer the distinctive elegance of 19th-century tin surface for the panels. As an alternative, some manufacturers offer a
tile in a durable, washable ceiling finish. Available at home centers and track system for clip-on installation.
specialty distributors, metal ceiling systems include field panels (in 2 × Begin your installation by carefully measuring the ceiling and snap-
2-, 2 × 4-, and 2 × 8-ft. sizes), border panels that can be cut to fit your ping chalk lines to establish the panel layout. For most tile patterns, it
layout, and cornice molding for finishing the edges. The panels come in looks best to cover the center of the space with full tiles only, then fill in
a variety of materials and finishes ready for installation, or they can be along the perimeter with border panels, which are not patterned. Make
painted. sure your layout is square.
To simplify installation, the panels have round catches, called nailing
buttons, that fit into one another to align the panels where they overlap.
The buttons are also the nailing points for attaching the panels. Use Tools: Chalk line, level, tin snips, drill with 1⁄8" metal bit, hammer,
1" decorative conehead nails where nail heads will be exposed, and 1⁄2" compass, metal file.
wire nails where heads are hidden. Materials: 3⁄8" or 1⁄2" plywood, 2" wallboard screws, field panels,
Install your metal ceiling over a smooth layer of 3⁄8" or 1⁄2" plywood, border panels with molding edge, cornice molding, masking
which can be fastened directly to the ceiling joists with wallboard screws, tape, 1⁄2" wire nails, 1" conehead nails, wood block.
or installed over an existing finish. The plywood provides a flat nailing
Walls & Ceilings/ Metal Tile Ceiling 259

Walls & Ceilings
Installing a Metal Tile Ceiling
A Cornice B
Border panel
Field panel
Measure to find the center of the ceiling, then snap perpendicular chalk lines intersecting the center. On the walls, mark a Align the first field panel with the chalk lines at the ceiling’s
level reference line representing the bottom edges of the cornice molding. Where possible, plan to install the panels so they center, and attach it with 1⁄2" wire nails along the edges where
overlap toward the room’s entrance, to help conceal the seams. another panel will overlap it. Drive the nails beside the nailing
buttons—saving the buttons for nailing the overlapping panel.
C D
Continue to install field panels, working along the length of the area first, then overlapping Cut the border panels to width so they will underlap the cornice by at least 1". Use sharp tin
the next row. Make sure the nailing buttons are aligned. Underlap panels by sliding the new snips, and cut from the edge without edge molding. Install the panels so the nailing buttons
panel into position beneath the installed panel, then fasten through both panels at the nail- on the molding align with those on the field panels. Fasten through the buttons with cone-
ing buttons, using 1" conehead nails. Where field panels meet at corners, drill 1⁄8" pilot holes head nails, and along the cut edge with wire nails. At corners, miter-cut the panels, and drive
for the conehead nails. conehead nails every 6" along the seam.
260 Walls & Ceilings/ Metal Tile Ceiling

E F
Install each cornice piece with its bottom edge on the level At inside corners, install one cornice piece tightly into the corner, then scribe the mating piece to fit, using masking tape and
line. Drive 1" conehead nails through the nailing buttons and a compass. Cut along the scribed line with tin snips, and make minor adjustments with a metal file. You may have to cut the
into the wall studs. Don’t nail the ends until the succeeding mating piece several times, so start with plenty of length. If you have several corners, use this technique to cut templates for
piece is in place. Fasten the top edges to the ceiling. the corner pieces.
G H
At outside corners, cut the ends of two scrap pieces at a 33° angle. Fit the pieces together at Using a hammer and a piece of wood, carefully tap any loose joints to tighten them. If the
the corner, then trim and mark each piece in turn, making minor adjustments until they fit cornice will be left unpainted, file the joints for a perfect fit. If you’re painting the ceiling, seal
well. Use the scrap pieces as templates for marking the workpieces. Fasten near the corner the seams with paintable silicone caulk, then apply two coats of paint using a roller with a
only when both mating pieces are in place. 1
⁄4" nap. Allow the first coat to dry for 24 hours before applying the second coat.
Walls & Ceilings/ Metal Tile Ceiling 261

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Interior Trim

Crown molding
The term “trim” refers to all of the moldings that dress up walls and
Picture rail ceilings, hide gaps and joints between surfaces, and adorn window and
door frames. As a decorating tool, trim lends a sculptural quality to
otherwise flat surfaces and can have a dramatic effect on any room in
the house. Working with trim involves a few specific cuts and tech-
niques, but once you learn them, you can install almost any type.
The photo at left shows many of the standard types of trim molding:
Crown molding decorates the intersections of walls and ceilings.
Most crown molding is sprung, meaning it installs at an angle to its
nailing surfaces, leaving a hollow space behind it. Crown molding can
be installed by itself or as part of a more elaborate, built-up molding
treatment, called a cornice (see page 267). In addition to wood, crown
molding can be made with plastic polymers, often in ornate, one-piece
styles (see pages 268 to 269).
Picture rail is a traditional molding with a novel function: it has a
protruding, rounded edge that holds hooks for hanging pictures with
wire. It can stand alone on a wall or be installed so that it adds contour
to a crown or cornice molding (see page 267).
Casing (see pages 270 to 273) is trim that covers the edges of door
and window frames.
Casing Chair rail runs horizontally along walls at a height of 30" to 36",
typically. It originated as a way to protect walls from collisions with
chair backs, but today, it’s more often used to divide a wall visually,
serving as a border for a wallpaper wainscot or a transition between
different paint colors. NOTE: Install chair rail and picture rail as you
would baseboard.
Baseboard covers the bottoms of walls along the floor. Styles range
Chair rail
from single-piece to built-up versions that include a base cap and a
base shoe installed at the floor. Base shoe is small, typically rounded
molding that is flexible and can follow contours in the floor to hide
gaps left by the baseboard. See pages 263 to 266 for tips on planning,
cutting, and installing baseboard.
To avoid problems due to shrinkage after installation, stack the trim
in the room where it will be installed and allow it to acclimate for sev-
eral days. Apply a coat of primer or sealer to all sides of each piece, and
let it dry thoroughly before installing it. You may also choose to paint
or stain the trim before installing it.
Baseboard
Attach wood trim with finish nails, which have small heads that you
drive below the surface using a nail set (see page 266). Nails for most
trim are size 6d or smaller, depending on the thickness of the trim and
Base shoe the wall surface. At a minimum, nails should be long enough to pene-
trate the framing by at least 3⁄4"; heavier trim requires nails with more
holding power. Use finish screws for securing trim to steel studs (see
page 52). After the trim is installed and all the nails are set, fill the nail
holes with wood putty, and touch up the areas with paint or stain.
262 Walls & Ceilings/ Interior Trim

How to Plan Your Trim Layout
Butted to wall 1 2
Scarf joint
Coped joint
3
5
Mitered joint
6
8 7
Plan the order of your trim installation to minimize the number of difficult cuts on individ- other, such as #4 above, cut and fit the coped end first. Also keep in mind the nailing points—
ual pieces. Use the longest pieces of molding for the most visible walls, saving the shorter ones mark all framing members you’ll be nailing into before starting the installation (see below).
for less conspicuous areas. When possible, place the joints so they point away from the direct line As a minimum, all trim should be nailed at every wall stud, and every ceiling joist, if applic-
of sight from the room’s entrance. If a piece will be coped on one end and mitered on the able. Install door and window casing before installing horizontal molding that will butt into it.
Coped
Outside-
joint
corner
miter
Scarf joint
The basic joints for trim are shown here. A scarf joint (see page 265) joins two pieces along a length of wall. Coped joints join Mark stud locations throughout the project area. Use a stud
contoured molding at inside corners. The first piece is butted into the corner; the second piece is cut and fitted against the finder, an electronic device that uses sonic waves to locate
face of the first (see page 265). Miter joints are made with two 45°-angle cuts. To help with measuring and fitting miter joints, framing behind wall and ceiling surfaces. Stud finders locate
make a pattern by miter-cutting both ends of a scrap piece of trim. Hold the pattern against the wall at outside corners to the edges of framing so you can determine the center of studs
test-fit and position cut pieces. and joists.
Walls & Ceilings/ Interior Trim 263

Walls & Ceilings
Tips for Cutting Trim
A basic miter box, made of wood or metal, and a backsaw Swivel-type miter boxes rotate and lock the blade into posi- Power miter saws make very accurate cuts. Their bases
are the simplest tools for making clean cuts in trim. These tion for cutting a wide range of angles. Some types have a swivel and lock into position, and their large blades cut
typically cut only 90° and 45° angles. A backsaw is a short special saw used only for the miter box; other types have cleanly with minimal tearout. Standard miter saws are fixed
handsaw with a stiff spine that keeps the blade straight while clamps that accept standard backsaws. vertically, while compound miter saws tilt to make bevel- and
cutting. To cut crown molding, see below. miter-cuts in one stroke.
Bevel
gauge
Fence
Table
Flats
Miter
gauge
To miter-cut crown molding using a miter box or standard miter saw, flip the molding Variation: To cut crown molding using a compound miter saw, lay the molding flat on the
upside down, and place the flats on the back side of the molding against the table and fence saw table and set the miter and bevel angles. For outside-corner miters, the standard settings
of the saw (think of the table as the ceiling and the fence as the wall). are 33° (miter) and 31.62° (bevel). These settings on the gauges often are highlighted for easy
identification.

Coped joints form neat inside corners for contoured molding. To make a coped cut, cut the end slightly toward the back side to create a sharp edge along the contour. Test-fit the cut using a
of the molding at a 45° angle, so that the back side is longer than the front side. Using a coping scrap piece of molding. The coped piece should fit snugly against the profile of the scrap piece.
saw, cut along the front edge of the molding, following the contour exactly. Angle the saw If necessary, make small adjustments to the contoured edge, using sandpaper or a utility knife.
Making Scarf Joints & Mitered Returns
Return piece
Straight
cut
Mitered
joint
Scarf joints (or field joints) are used for joining molding on For crown molding and other sprung molding, cut the first Mitered returns finish molding ends that would otherwise be
long runs. They help hide gaps if the wood shrinks. To make piece at a 30° angle. Install the first piece, but nail only to exposed. Miter the main piece as you would at an outside
a scarf joint, cut the first piece at 45° so the end grain shows at within 2 ft. of the joint. Cut the second piece at 30° in the corner. Cut a miter on the return piece, then cut it to length
the front. Install the piece, but don’t nail it within 2 ft. of the opposite direction—it’s best to do this without adjusting the with a straight cut so it butts to the wall. Attach the return
joint. Cut the second piece at 45° in the opposite direction saw between cuts. Test-fit the joint, then apply wood glue to piece with wood glue.
from the first. Fit the joint together, then fasten both pieces. the mating surfaces and fasten both pieces completely.

Walls & Ceilings
Tips for Fastening Trim
Finish nails are the best fasteners for most trim (inset). Drive the nails close to the surface Power nailers automatically drive and set special finish nails. Traditional models use com-
with a hammer, then countersink, or set, them about 1⁄16” deep into the wood, using a nail set pressed air, but a variety of battery-powered consumer nailers are now available at home
with a point slightly smaller than the nail head. Drill pilot holes for the nails in hardwood or centers. Either style can also be rented. Power nailers simplify your work considerably by allow-
small pieces of trim, to prevent splitting. As a minimum, nails should be long enough to pen- ing you to hold the trim while nailing and eliminating the banging caused by hammering.
etrate the supporting material by 3⁄4”; heavier moldings require longer nails. They also eliminate the need for pilot holes, and they countersink the nails automatically.
Flats
Crown molding should be positioned so the flats are flush Where there’s no framing to nail into, such as along walls Fasten baseboard as shown here, nailing the main base-
against the wall and ceiling. Drill pilot holes, and drive finish parallel to joists, secure the top edge of molding with con- board into the wall studs and the bottom plate at each stud
nails through the flats of the molding at the stud and struction adhesive. Using power nailer, drive pairs of nails at location. If you’re installing a built-up molding, run the main
ceiling-joist locations. NOTE: To prevent splitting, slightly offset opposing angles every 16" along the top flat. Nail the bottom baseboard first, then add the cap and base shoe. Nail the
the nails so they are not in line vertically. edge at each stud location. cap into the baseboard or the wall studs, depending on the
thickness of the baseboard. Nail the shoe to the floor only, to
prevent gapping if the baseboard shrinks.

Creating a Built-up Cornice
A cornice essentially is an elaborate crown big or complicated, so try to keep things in
molding, decorating the area where the walls perspective. Also take into account the size of
meet the ceiling. Traditionally, cornices have the baseboard, if the room has one. A base-
been made with plaster, a solid piece of wood, board creates a visual balance with a cornice,
or a combination of relatively simple molding and the two should be roughly proportionate.
pieces—called a built-up cornice. Built-up The second consideration is backing. All of the
types are the most common today because molding pieces must be fastened to wall studs,
they’re much cheaper and easier to install than ceiling joists, preinstalled blocking, or other
their counterparts, and they allow for a custom moldings—so think about where your nails
design. will go. One of the examples below shows a
To design your own cornice, visit a well- simple way to build a cornice around 2 × 2
stocked lumberyard or home center and gather blocking.
several molding samples of different types: A power nailer is especially useful for installing
baseboard, stop, crown or sprung cove, as well multiple moldings; it will be worth it to rent
as some smaller trims, like quarter-rounds and one for a day or even buy one if your project is
coves. At home, arrange the samples in differ- sizable. Of course, you can also hand-drive the
ent combinations and positions to find the nails. For additional help with measuring, cut-
best design. ting, and nailing your moldings, see pages 263
There are a couple of things to keep in mind to 266.
as you design. The first is moderation. It’s easy
to overwhelm a room with a cornice that’s too
Quarter round
Stop Stop
molding molding
Crown
molding
Crown
molding 2×2
1×2
Band
Picture rail
Baseboard
Crown molding
This basic built-up cornice starts with a 13⁄8" colonial stop Use picture rail (see page 262) to enhance a cornice mold- Install blocking to provide a nailing surface and added bulk
installed along the ceiling and a band of 31⁄4" colonial base- ing. Standard height for picture rail is about 10" to 12" to a cornice. Seen here, a 2 × 2 block, or nailing strip, is
board run along the wall. A simple crown molding is then below the ceiling, but you can place it at any level. You can screwed to the wall studs. A facing of 1 × 2 finish lumber is
fastened to the two moldings to complete the cornice. use square-stock for the band (since the bottom edge will nailed to the blocking and is trimmed along the ceiling with
mostly be hidden), and add picture rail just below the band. quarter-round. The crown molding is nailed to the wall studs
Be sure to leave enough room for placing picture hooks. along the bottom and to the nailer along the top.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Polymer Crown Molding
Polymer moldings come in a wide variety of single-piece ornate styles, A
and offer easy installation and maintenance. They are as easy to cut and
nail as pine and many can be glued in place. But unlike wood, the
polystyrene or polyurethane material won’t rot, swell, or shrink, and it
can be repaired with vinyl spackling compound.
Polymer moldings can be purchased preprimed for painting, or you
can stain them yourself with a nonpenetrating heavy-body stain or gel.
Most polymers come in 12-ft. lengths, with single-piece design. Special
options include corner blocks, which eliminate difficult cuts at inside
and outside corners, and bendable profiles, which allow you to mold
around curved surfaces.
The cost of simple polymer moldings is similar to that of pine,
but ornate polymer moldings generally are less expensive than their
multiple-piece wood counterparts.
Tools: Drill with countersink-piloting bit, power miter saw or

hand miter box and fine-tooth saw, caulk gun, putty knife.
Materials: Crown molding, finish nails, 150-grit sandpaper,
rag, mineral spirits, polymer adhesive, 2" wallboard screws, Plan the layout of the molding pieces by measuring the walls of the room and making light
vinyl spackling compound, paintable latex caulk. pencil marks at the joint locations. For each piece that starts or ends at a corner, add 12" to
24" to compensate for the waste. Avoid pieces less than 36" long, if possible, because short
pieces are more difficult to fit.
B C
Hold a section of molding against the wall and ceiling in the finished position. Make light To make the miter cuts for the first corner, position the molding face up in a miter box. Set
pencil marks on the wall every 12" along the bottom edge of the molding. Remove the mold- the ceiling-side flat (see page 264) of the molding against the horizontal table of the miter
ing, and tack a finish nail at each pencil mark. The nails will hold the molding in place while box, and set the wall-side flat against the vertical back fence. Make the cut at 45°.
the adhesive dries. If the wall surface is plaster, drill pilot holes for the nails.

D E
Check the uncut ends of each molding piece before installing it. Make sure mating pieces will Lightly sand the backs of the molding that will make contact with the wall and ceiling, using
butt together squarely in a tight joint. Cut all square ends at 90°, using a miter saw or hand 150-grit sandpaper. Slightly dampen a rag with mineral spirits, and wipe away the sanding
miter box. dust. Run a small bead of polymer adhesive (recommended or supplied by the manufacturer)
along both sanded edges.
F G H
Set the molding in place with the mitered end tight to the Cut, sand, and glue the next section of molding. Apply a Carefully remove the finish nails and fill the nail holes with
corner and the bottom edge resting on the finish nails. Press bead of adhesive to the end where the installed molding will vinyl spackling compound. Fill the screw holes in the mold-
along the wall and ceiling edges to create a good bond. At meet the new section. Install the new section, and secure the ing and any gaps in the joints with paintable latex caulk or
each end of the section, drill a countersunk pilot hole ends with screws, making sure the joints are aligned prop- filler, and wipe away excess caulk with a damp cloth or a
through the flats and into the ceiling and wall. Drive 2" wall- erly. Install the remaining molding sections, and allow the wet finger. Smooth the caulk over the holes so it is flush with
board screws through the pilot holes. adhesive to dry. the surface.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Door & Window Casing
Window and door casings provide an attractive border around windows
and doors. They also cover the gaps between window and door jambs
and the surfaces of surrounding walls.
Install window and door casings with a consistent reveal between the
inside edges of the jambs and casings.
In order to fit casings properly, the jambs and wall surfaces must lie in
the same plane. If one of them protrudes, the casings will not lie flush.
To solve this problem, you may need to use a block plane to shave the
protruding jamb. Or, you may need to attach an extension of 1 × finish-
grade lumber to build up the jamb, which is often the case with 2 × 6 walls.
Stool and apron casing brings a traditional look to a window, and is
most commonly used with double-hung styles. The stool serves as an
interior sill; the apron (or the bottom casing) conceals the gap between
the stool and the finished wall.
As with any trim project, tight joints are the secret to a successful
door or window casing job. Take your time to ensure all the pieces fit
tightly. Also, use a power nailer (see page 266)—you don’t want to
spend all that time shimming the jambs perfectly only to knock them
out of position with one bad swing of a hammer.
Tools: Tape measure, drill, pencil, nail set, hammer or power

nailer, level, combination square, straightedge, miter saw, plane
or rasp.
Materials: Casing material; 1× finish lumber; wood shims; 4d,
6d, and 8d finish nails; wood putty.
Installing Door or Window Casing

A B C
On each jamb, mark a reveal line 1⁄8" from the inside edge. Place a length of casing along one side jamb, flush with the Make 45° miter cuts on the ends of the moldings. Measure
The casings will be installed flush with these lines. reveal line. At the top and bottom of the molding, mark the and cut the other vertical molding piece, using the same
points where horizontal and vertical reveal lines meet. (When method.
working with doors, mark the molding at the top only.)

D E F
Drill pilot holes spaced every 12" to prevent splitting, and Measure the distance between the side casings, and cut top Locknail the corner joints. Drill pilot holes and drive 4d finish
attach the vertical casings with 4d finish nails driven through and bottom casings to fit, with ends mitered at 45°. If win- nails through each corner, or drive finishing nails through
the casings and into the jambs. Drive 6d finish nails into the dow or door unit is not perfectly square, make test cuts on each corner with power nailer, as shown. If necessary, drive
framing members near the outside edge of the casings. scrap pieces to find the correct angle of the joints. Drill pilot all nail heads below the wood surface, using a nail set, then
holes and attach with 4d and 6d finish nails. fill the nail holes with wood putty.
Installing Stool & Apron Window Casing

A B C
Cut the stool to length, with several inches at each end for Open a compass so it touches the wall and the tip of the Cut out the notches for the horn, using a jig saw or a sharp
creating the horn returns. With the stool centered at the win- rough opening mark on the stool, then scribe the plane of the handsaw. Test-fit the stool, making any minor adjustments
dow and tight against the wallboard, shim it to its finished wall onto the stool to complete the cutting line for the horn. with a plane or a rasp to fit it tightly to the window and the
height. At each corner, measure the distance between the walls.
window frame and the stool, then mark that dimension on
the stool.

Walls & Ceilings
Installing Stool & Apron Window Casing (cont.)
D E
Jig
Horn
Cut Scrap
lines
45° Width at
top left
corner
45°
1×
lumber
Return Width at
Return top right
corner
To create a return at the horn of the stool, miter-cut the return pieces at 45° angles. Mark the Where extensions are needed, cut the head extension to its finished length—the distance
stool at its overall length and cut it to size with 45° miter cuts. Glue the return to the mitered between the window side jambs plus the thickness of both side extensions (typically 1 × stock).
end of the horn so the grain wraps around the corner. NOTE: Use this same technique to cre- For the width, measure the distance between the window jamb and the finished wall at each
ate the returns on the apron (step M, page 273), but make the cuts with the apron held corner, then mark the measurements on the ends of the extension. Use a straightedge to draw
on-edge, rather than flat. a reference line connecting the points. Build a simple cutting jig, as shown.
F G H
Clamp the jig on the reference line, then rip the extension to Build a box frame with the extensions and stool, using 6d fin- Apply wood glue to back edge of frame, then position it
width, using a circular saw; keep the baseplate tight against ish nails and a power nailer. Measure to make sure the box against front edge of window jambs. Use wood shims to
the jig and move the saw smoothly through the board. has the same dimensions as the window jambs. Drive nails adjust frame, making sure pieces are flush with window
Reposition the clamp when you near the end of the cut. Cut through the top of the head extension into the side exten- jambs. Fasten frame at each shim location, using 8d finish
both side extensions to length and width, using the same sions, and through the bottom of the stool into side nails driven through pilot holes. Loosely pack insulation
technique as for the head extension (step E). extensions. between framing members and extensions.

I J
On the edge of each extension, mark a 1⁄4" reveal at the corners, the middle, and the stool. Cut the side casings to rough length, leaving the ends slightly long for final trimming. Miter
Place a length of casing along the head extension, aligned with the reveal marks at the cor- one end at 45°. With the pointed end on the stool, mark the height of the side casing at the
ners. Mark where the reveal marks intersect, then make 45° miter cuts at each point. top edge of the head casing.
Reposition the casing at the head extension and attach, using 4d finish nails at the exten-
sions, and 6d finish nails at the framing members.
K L M
To get a tight fit for side casings, align one side of a T-bevel Test-fit the casings, making any final adjustments with a Cut apron to length, leaving a few inches at each end for cre-
with the reveal, mark the side extension and position the plane or rasp. To help create tight joints, “back-cut” the ends ating the returns (step D, page 272). Position the apron tight
other side flush against the horn. Transfer angle from T-bevel of casing pieces, using a sharp utility knife (inset). Fasten the against the bottom edge of the stool, then attach it, using 6d
to end of casing, and cut casing to length. casing with 4d finish nails at the extensions, and 6d finish finish nails driven every 12".
nails at the framing members.

F
F I N
LOOR
I S H E S
Choosing a Floor Covering . . . . . . . . . . 276

Preparing for New Flooring . . . . . . . . . 278
Removing Floor Coverings . . . . . . . . . . 280
Removing Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Repairing Subfloors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Installing Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Installing Vinyl Flooring . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
Installing a Floor-warming System . . . 302
Installing Ceramic Floor Tile . . . . . . . . 306
Installing Laminate Flooring . . . . . . . . 316
Installing Carpet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
Floor Finishes
Choosing a Floor Covering

Vinyl Flooring
Vinyl flooring, also known as “resilient flooring,” is a versatile,
flexible surface that can be used almost anywhere, although it’s
most often found in kitchens and bathrooms. Vinyl flooring is
available in both sheets and tiles, in thicknesses ranging from
1
⁄16" to 1⁄8". Sheets come in 6-ft.-wide or 12-ft.-wide rolls, with
either a felt or a PVC backing, depending on the type of instal-
lation. Tiles typically come in 12" squares and are available with
or without self-adhesive backing.
Installation is easy: Sheet vinyl with felt backing is glued to
the floor using the full-spread method, meaning the entire pro-
ject area is covered with adhesive. PVC-backed sheet vinyl is
glued only along the edges (perimeter-bond method). Tiles are
the easiest to install, but because tile floors have a lot of seams,
they’re less suitable for high-moisture areas. All vinyl flooring
must be installed over a smooth underlayment.
Sheet vinyl is priced per square yard; tile is priced per square
foot. Cost for either style is comparable to carpet and is less
expensive than ceramic tile or hardwood. Prices vary, based on
the percentage of vinyl in the material, the thickness of the
product, and the complexity of the pattern.
Ceramic Tile
Ceramic tile is a hard, durable, versatile material that’s available
in a wide variety of sizes, patterns, shapes, and colors. This all-
purpose flooring is an excellent choice for high-traffic and
high-moisture areas. It’s commonly used in bathrooms, entry-
ways, and kitchens.
Common ceramic tiles include unglazed quarry tile, glazed
ceramic tile, and porcelain mosaic tile. As an alternative to
ceramic, natural-stone tiles are available in several materials,
including marble, slate, and granite. Thicknesses for most floor
tile range from 3⁄16" to 3⁄4".
In general, ceramic tile is more expensive than other types of
floor coverings, with natural stone tile ranking as the most
expensive. And while tile is also more time-consuming to install
than other materials, it offers the most flexibility of design.
Floor preparation is critical to the success of a tile installation.
In wet areas, such as bathrooms, tile should be laid over a
cementboard underlayment that is fastened to the subfloor. All
floors that support tile must be stiff and flat to prevent cracking
in the tile surface. Tile is installed following a grid-pattern lay-
out and is adhered to the floor with thin-set mortar. The gaps
between individual tiles are filled with grout, which should be
sealed periodically to prevent staining.
276 Floor Finishes/ Materials

Wood Flooring
Wood floors are resilient and durable, but look warm and elegant. They
hold up well in high-traffic areas and are popular in dining rooms, liv-
ing rooms, and entryways.
Traditional solid-wood planks are the most common type of wood
flooring, but there is a growing selection of plywood-backed and
synthetic-laminate products (also called laminated-wood) that are well
suited to do-it-yourself installation. Oak and maple are the most com-
mon wood species available, and size options include narrow strips,
wide planks, and parquet squares. Most wood flooring has tongue-and-
groove construction, which helps to provide a strong, flat surface.
In general, hardwood flooring is slightly less expensive than ceramic
tile, and laminated products are typically less expensive than solid hard-
wood. Most types of wood flooring can be installed directly over a
subfloor or sometimes over vinyl flooring. Installation of laminated-
wood flooring is easy; it can be glued or nailed down, or “floated” on
a foam cushion. Parquet squares typically are glued down. Solid hard-
wood planks must be nailed—a job for professionals.
Carpet
Carpet is a soft, flexible floor covering that is chosen primarily for
comfort rather than durability. It is a popular choice for bedrooms,
family rooms, and hallways.
Carpet is made of synthetic or natural fibers bonded to a mesh back-
ing and usually sold in 12-ft.-wide rolls. Some types have a cushioned
backing, ready for glue-down installation without pads or strips.
The two basic types of carpeting are loop-pile, which is made with
uncut loops of yarn to create texture, and cut-pile, which has trimmed
fibers for a more uniform appearance. Some carpets contain both types.
Carpet is similar in price to vinyl flooring, but costs vary depending on
density and fiber. Wool is typically more expensive than synthetics.
Installing carpet is not difficult, but it does involve some special tools
and techniques. First, tackless strips and padding are installed, then the
carpeting is cut and seamed, and secured to the tackless strips.
Flooring for Safe & Easy Movement

Choosing the best flooring for everyone usually involves compromise. For example, carpet reduces noise and is safer in case of
accidents, but hard flooring is better for wheelchair movement. Here are some tips to consider when weighing your options:
• Floor coverings of different thicknesses can create rough • Nonslip flooring is best for kitchens and bathrooms. Ask the
transitions between rooms. Try to keep floor levels consistent, flooring dealer about the coefficient of friction (should be at least .6).
and use low-profile transition strips where necessary. • Low-pile carpet (1⁄4" to 1⁄2") reduces the risk of tripping and pro-
• Natural-wood floors and solid vinyl flooring with a matte vides a better surface for wheelchairs than high-pile carpet.
finish may offer the best traction. • Cushion-backed carpet can reduce carpet rippling and drag
• Lightly textured tile is better for wheelchairs than tile with a caused by wheelchairs (see pages 324 to 325).
smooth finish. Avoid wide grout joints with any type of tile. • Area rugs can be unsafe unless they are secured to the floor.
Floor Finishes/ Materials 277

Floor Finishes
Preparing for New Flooring

The first step in preparing for a new floor covering is evaluating your
old floor. Begin by identifying the existing floor material and the
Floor covering installation method used. Is your sheet vinyl attached using the full-
spread method or the perimeter-bond method? Is your carpet glued
down or stretched? Next, assess the condition of the floor. Is it securely
Adhesive attached? Is it chipped or cracked? Finally, note the height of the exist-
Underlayment
ing floor in relation to adjoining floor surfaces.
Often, a new floor covering or underlayment can be installed on top
of existing flooring. If the existing flooring is not sound or smooth,
Subfloor however, you’ll have to do some preparation work. Simple modifica-
tions to your existing floor may include applying an embossing leveler
(see page 288). More complex preparations may involve removing and
replacing the underlayment or making spot repairs to the subfloor.
Joist
Avoid taking shortcuts, as this usually results in an inferior floor.
Warning: Resilient flooring manufactured before 1986 may con-

tain asbestos, which can cause severe lung problems if inhaled. The
recommended method for dealing with asbestos-laden flooring is
A typical wood-frame floor consists of several layers. The floor’s structure is made up of to cover it with an underlayment. If the flooring must be removed,
joists—2 × 10 or larger framing members—and a subfloor—plywood or 1 × boards nailed
do not do the work yourself. Instead, consult a certified asbestos-
or screwed to the joists. Some floor coverings are installed over an underlayment (see page
288); others are laid directly over the subfloor.
abatement contractor.
Tips for Evaluating Floors
Determining the number and type of coverings already on Measure vertical spaces to make sure enclosed or under- Check for loose tiles (top), which may indicate widespread
your floor is an important early evaluation step. Too many counter appliances will fit once the new underlayment and failure of the adhesive. If tiles can be pried up easily in sev-
layers of flooring and underlayment can stress floor joists flooring are installed. Use samples of the new underlayment eral areas of the room, plan on removing all the flooring.
and ultimately cause a new floor to fail. An easy way to check and floor covering as spacers when measuring. Cracks in grout around tile (bottom) indicate movement of
for old flooring is to remove floor vents. the floor covering and possible deterioration of the adhesive.
278 Floor Finishes/ P reparation

A Quick Guide for Evaluating Your Existing Floor
Preparing for a new floor can be a simple task or a lengthy, diffi- several preparation options from which to choose. By carefully
cult chore, depending on the condition of the existing floor and on considering the options and choosing the most suitable method for
your choice of new floor coverings. your needs, you can avoid wasting time with unnecessary labor.
Keep in mind that the goal of any preparation for new flooring is
The following descriptions summarize the preparation steps for a structurally sound, smooth, and level surface.
various types of existing floor materials. In some cases, you have
Old Resilient (Vinyl) Flooring Old Hardwood Flooring

Option 1: Your existing resilient floor can serve as the foundation Option 1: If you are planning to install carpet, you can usually lay
for most new floorings, including resilient flooring, hardwood, or it directly over an existing hardwood floor, provided it is a nailed or
carpet, but only if the existing surface is relatively smooth and glued-down surface. Inspect the flooring and secure any loose areas
sound. Inspect the existing flooring for loose seams, tears, chips, to the subfloor with spiral-shanked flooring nails, then remove any
air bubbles, and other areas where the bond has failed. If these rotted wood and fill the voids with floor-leveling compound before
loose spots constitute less than 30% of the total area, you can installing carpet.
remove the flooring at these spots and fill the voids with floor level-
Option 2: If you will be installing resilient flooring or ceramic tile
ing compound. Then, apply embossing leveler to the entire floor
over nailed hardwood planks or glued-down wood flooring, you
and let it dry before laying new resilient flooring.
can attach new underlayment over the existing hardwood before
Option 2: If the original resilient flooring is suspect, you can install installing the new flooring.
new underlayment over the old surface after repairing obviously
Option 3: If the existing floor is a “floating” wood or laminate sur-
loose areas.
face with a foam-pad underlayment, remove it completely before
Option 3: If you are installing ceramic tile, or if the existing surface laying any type of new flooring.
is in very poor condition, the old resilient flooring should be
removed entirely before you install new flooring. If the old flooring
was glued down with full-bond adhesive, it is usually easiest to Underlayment & Subfloor
remove both the flooring and underlayment at the same time. If Underlayment must be smooth, solid, and level to ensure a long-
the old underlayment is removed, you must install new underlay- lasting flooring installation. If the existing underlayment does not
ment before laying the new flooring. meet these standards, remove it and install new underlayment
before you lay new flooring.
Old Ceramic Tile Before installing new underlayment, inspect the subfloor for chips,
open knots, dips, and loose boards. Screw down loose areas, and
Option 1: If the existing ceramic tile surface is relatively solid, new
fill cracks and dips with floor-leveling compound. Remove and
flooring usually can be laid directly over the tile. Inspect tiles and
replace any water-damaged areas.
joints for cracks and loose pieces. Remove loose material and fill
these areas with a floor-leveling compound. If you will be installing
resilient flooring, apply an embossing leveler product over the Old Carpet
ceramic tile before laying the new flooring. If you will be laying
new ceramic tile over the old surface, use an epoxy-based thin-set Without exception, carpet must be removed before you install any
mortar for better adhesion. new flooring. For traditional carpet, simply cut the carpet into
pieces, then remove the padding, and the tackless strips if they
Option 2: If more than 10% of the tiles are loose, remove all the old are damaged. Remove glued-down cushion-back carpet with a
flooring before installing the new surface. If the tiles don’t easily floor scraper, using the same techniques as for removing full-bond
separate from the underlayment, it’s best to remove the tile and the resilient sheet flooring (see page 281).
underlayment at the same time, then install new underlayment.
Floor Finishes/ P reparation 279

Floor Finishes
Removing Floor Coverings

When old floor coverings must be removed—
as is the case with many projects—thorough
and careful removal work is essential to the
quality of the new flooring installation.
The difficulty of flooring removal depends
on the type of floor covering and the method
which was used to install it. Carpet and
perimeter-bond vinyl are generally quite easy to
remove, and vinyl tiles are relatively simple.
Full-spread sheet vinyl can be difficult to
remove, however, and removing ceramic tile is
a lot of work.
With any removal project, be sure to keep
your tool blades sharp and avoid damaging the
underlayment if you plan to reuse it. If you’ll
be replacing the underlayment, it may be eas-
ier to remove the old underlayment along with
the floor covering (see pages 284 to 285).
Tools: Floor scraper, utility knife, spray

bottle, wallboard knife, wet/dry vac-
uum, heat gun, hand maul, masonry
chisel, flat pry bar, end-cutting nippers.
Use a floor scraper to remove resilient flooring products and to scrape off leftover adhesives or backings. The long handle Materials: Liquid dishwashing
provides leverage and force, and it allows you to work in a comfortable standing position. A scraper will remove most floor- detergent.
ing, but you may need to use other tools to finish the job.
Tips for Preparing Trim for Tile Installation
To remove baseboards, place a scrap board against the wall To prepare door jambs, measure the height of your under- To test the height of the door jamb, slide a piece of flooring
to avoid damaging the drywall. Remove the baseboard using layment and tile and mark the casing. Using a jamb saw, cut under the door jamb to make sure it fits easily.
a pry bar placed against the scrap board. Pry the baseboard the casing at the mark.
at all nail locations. Number the baseboards as they are
removed.
280 Floor Finishes/ Removal

Removing Sheet Vinyl
A B
Remove base moldings, if necessary. Use a utility knife to cut old flooring into strips about a Pull up as much flooring as possible by hand, gripping the strips close to the floor to mini-
foot wide. mize tearing.
C D
Cut stubborn sheet vinyl into strips about 5" wide. Starting at a wall, peel up as much of the Scrape up the remaining sheet vinyl and backing, using a floor scraper. If necessary, spray
floor covering as possible. If the felt backing remains, spray a solution of water and liquid the backing again with the soap solution to loosen it. Sweep up the debris, then finish the
dishwashing detergent under the surface layer to help separate the backing. Use a wallboard cleanup with a wet/dry vacuum. TIP: Fill the vacuum with about an inch of water to help
knife to scrape up particularly stubborn patches. contain dust.
Floor Finishes/ Removal 281

Floor Finishes
Removing Vinyl Tiles
A B
Remove base moldings, if necessary. Starting at a loose seam, use a long-handled floor Remove stubborn adhesive or backing by wetting the floor with a water/detergent mixture,
scraper to remove tiles. To remove stubborn tiles, soften the adhesive with a heat gun, then then scraping with a floor scraper.
use a wallboard knife to pry up the tile and scrape off the underlying adhesive.
Removing Ceramic Tile

A B
Remove base moldings, if necessary. Knock out tile using a hand maul and masonry chisel. If you plan to reuse the underlayment, use a floor scraper to remove any remaining adhesive.
If possible, start in a space between tiles where the grout has loosened. Be careful when You may have to use a belt sander with a coarse sanding belt to grind off stubborn adhesive.
working around fragile fixtures, such as drain flanges.

Removing Carpet
A B
Using a utility knife, cut around metal threshold strips to free the carpet. Remove the thresh- Cut the carpet into pieces small enough to be easily removed. Roll up the carpet and remove
old strips with a flat pry bar. it from the room, then remove the padding. NOTE: Padding often is stapled to the floor, and
usually will come up in pieces as you roll it up.
Using end-cutting nippers or pliers, remove all staples from the floor. TIP: If you plan to lay Variation: To remove glued-down carpet, first cut it into strips with a utility knife,
new carpet, do not remove the tackless strips unless they are damaged. then pull up as much material as you can. Scrape up the remaining cushion material and
adhesive with a floor scraper.

Floor Finishes
Remove underlayment and floor covering as though they were a single layer. This is an
effective removal strategy with any floor covering that is bonded to the underlayment.
Removing Underlayment
Flooring contractors routinely remove the underlayment along with the
floor covering before installing new flooring. This saves time and
makes it possible to install new underlayment that is ideally suited to
the new flooring. Do-it-yourselfers using this technique should make
sure they cut flooring into pieces that can be easily handled.
Warning: This floor removal method releases flooring particles

into the air. Be sure the flooring you are removing does not contain
asbestos (see page 278).
Tools: Goggles, gloves, circular saw with carbide-tipped blade,

flat pry bar, reciprocating saw, wood chisel.
Tip: Examine fasteners to see how the underlayment is attached. Use a screwdriver to expose
the heads of the fasteners. If the underlayment has been screwed down, you will need to
remove the floor covering and then unscrew the underlayment.

Removing Underlayment
A B
Remove base moldings, if necessary. Adjust the cutting depth of a circular saw to equal the Use a reciprocating saw to extend cuts close to the edges of walls. Hold the blade at a slight
combined thickness of your floor covering and underlayment (see page 278). Using a carbide- angle to the floor, and try not to damage walls or cabinets. Do not cut deeper than the under-
tipped blade, cut the floor covering and underlayment into squares measuring about 3 ft. layment. Use a wood chisel to complete cuts near cabinets.
square. Be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves.
Separate the underlayment from the subfloor, using a flat pry bar and hammer. Remove and Variation: If your existing floor is ceramic tile over plywood underlayment, use a hand maul
discard the sections of underlayment and floor covering immediately, watching for exposed nails. and masonry chisel to chip away the tile along the cutting lines before making the cuts.

Floor Finishes
Before installing new underlayment and floor covering, refasten any sections of loose subfloor to floor joists using deck screws.
Repairing Subfloors
A solid, securely fastened subfloor minimizes floor movement and

squeaks, and it ensures that your new floor covering will last a long
time. After removing the old underlayment, inspect the subfloor for
loose seams, moisture damage, cracks, and other flaws. If your subfloor
is made of dimensional lumber rather than plywood, you can use ply-
wood to patch damaged sections; if the plywood patch does not quite
reach the height of the subfloor, use floor leveler to raise its surface to
match the surrounding area.
Tools: Trowel, straightedge, framing square, drill, circular saw,

cat's paw, wood chisel.
Materials: 2" deck screws, floor leveler, plywood, 2 × 4 lumber,
10d common nails.
Floor leveler is used to fill in dips and low spots in plywood subfloors. Mix the leveler accord-
ing to the manufacturer's directions, adding a latex or acrylic additive.
286 Floor Finishes/ Subfloors

Applying Floor Leveler
A B
Mix the leveler according to the manufacturer's directions, then spread it onto the subfloor Check with a straightedge to make sure the filled area is even with the surrounding area; if
with a trowel. Build up the leveler in thin layers to avoid overfilling the area. necessary, apply more leveler. Allow the leveler to dry, then shave off any ridges with the edge
of a trowel, or sand it smooth, if necessary.
Replacing a Section of Subfloor

A B C
Cut out damaged areas of the subfloor. Use a framing square Remove the damaged section, then nail two 2 × 4 blocks Measure the cutout section, then cut a patch to fit, using
to mark a rectangle around the damage—make sure two between the joists, centered under the cut edges for added material of the same thickness as the original subfloor.
sides of the rectangle are centered over floor joists. Remove support. If possible, endnail the blocks from below; otherwise Fasten the patch to the joists and blocks, using 2" deck screws
nails along the lines, using a cat’s paw. Make the cut using toenail them from above, using 10d nails. spaced about 5" apart.
a circular saw adjusted so the blade cuts through only the
subfloor. Use a chisel to complete the cuts near walls.
Floor Finishes/ Subfloors 287

Floor Finishes
Installing Underlayment
Plywood
The type of underlayment you choose depends in part on the type of

floor covering you plan to install. For example, ceramic and natural-
stone tile floors often require an underlayment that stands up to
moisture, such as cementboard. For vinyl flooring, use a quality-grade
plywood, since most manufacturers will void their warranties if their
flooring is installed over substandard underlayments. Most wood
flooring and carpeting do not require underlayment and are often
Fiber/cementboard placed directly on a plywood subfloor. If you will use your old flooring
as underlayment, apply an embossing leveler to prepare it for the new
installation (see below, left).
When installing new underlayment, make sure it is securely
attached to the subfloor in all areas, including below all movable
appliances. Notch the underlayment to fit room contours. Around
door casings and other moldings, you can undercut the moldings and
insert the underlayment beneath them.
Cementboard
Plywood is typically used as an underlayment for vinyl flooring and

some ceramic tile installations. For vinyl flooring, use 1⁄4" exterior-
grade, AC plywood (at least one side perfectly smooth). Wood-based
floor coverings, like parquet, can be installed over lower-quality
exterior-grade plywood. For ceramic tile, use 1⁄2" AC plywood.
Isolation
membrane Fiber/cementboard is a thin, high-density underlayment used
under ceramic tile and vinyl flooring in situations where floor height
is a concern. (For installation, follow the steps for cementboard, on
page 290.)
Cementboard is used only for ceramic tile (or stone) installations.

It remains stable even when exposed to moisture and is therefore the
best underlayment to use in areas likely to get wet, such as bathrooms.
Isolation membrane is used to protect ceramic tile installations from

movement that may occur on cracked concrete floors. It is used pri-
marily for covering individual cracks with strips of membrane, but it
can also be used over an entire floor. Isolation membrane also is
available in a liquid form that can be poured over the project area.
Tools: Drill, circular saw, wallboard knife, power sander,

1
⁄4" notched trowel, straightedge, utility knife, jig saw with
carbide blade, 1⁄8" notched trowel, flooring roller.
Embossing leveler is a mortar-like substance used for preparing well-adhered resilient floor-
ing or ceramic tile for use as an underlayment. Mix the leveler according to the manufacturer's Materials: Underlayment, 1" deck screws, floor-patching com-
directions, and spread it thinly over the floor with a flat-edged trowel. Wipe away any excess, pound, latex additive, thin-set mortar, 11⁄2" galvanized deck
making sure all dips and indentations are filled. Work quickly—embossing leveler begins to screws, fiberglass-mesh wallboard tape.
set in 10 minutes. After the leveler dries, scrape away ridges and high spots with the trowel.
288 Floor Finishes/ Underlayment

Installing Plywood Underlayment
A B C
Begin by installing a full sheet of plywood along the longest Continue fastening sheets of plywood to the subfloor, driving Using a circular saw or jig saw, notch plywood to meet exist-
wall, making sure the underlayment seams will not be the screw heads slightly below the underlayment surface. ing flooring in doorways, then fasten the notched sheets to
aligned with the subfloor seams. Fasten the plywood to the Leave 1⁄4" expansion gaps at the walls and between sheets. the subfloor.
subfloor, using 1" deck screws driven every 6" along the edges Offset seams in subsequent rows.
and at 8" intervals in the field of the sheet.
D E
Mix floor-patching compound and latex or acrylic additive, according to the manufacturer's Let the patching compound dry, then sand the patched areas, using a power sander.
directions. Then, spread it over seams and screw heads with a wallboard knife.
Floor Finishes/ Underlayment 289

Floor Finishes
Installing
Cementboard
A B
Mix thin-set mortar (see page 307) according to the manufacturer's directions. Starting at the Fasten cementboard to subfloor, using 11⁄2" galvanized deck screws driven every 6" along
longest wall, spread the mortar on the subfloor in a figure-eight pattern, using a 1⁄4" notched edges and 8" throughout the sheet. Drive the screw heads flush with the surface. Continue
trowel. Spread only enough mortar for one sheet at a time. Set the cementboard on the mor- spreading mortar and installing sheets along the wall. OPTION: If you are installing
tar with the rough side up, making sure the edges are offset from the subfloor seams. fiber/cementboard underlayment, use a 3⁄16" notched trowel to spread the mortar, and drill
pilot holes for all screws.
C D E
Cut cementboard pieces as necessary, leaving a 1⁄8" gap at all To cut holes, notches, or irregular shapes, use a jig saw with Place fiberglass-mesh wallboard tape over the seams. Use a
joints and a 1⁄4" gap along the room perimeter. For straight a carbide blade. Continue installing cementboard sheets to wallboard knife to apply thin-set mortar to the seams, filling
cuts, use a utility knife to score a line through the fiber-mesh cover the entire floor. the gaps between sheets and spreading a thin layer of mor-
layer just beneath the surface, then snap the board along the tar over the tape. Allow the mortar to cure for two days
scored line. before starting the tile installation.
290 Floor Finishes/ Underlayment

Installing Isolation Membrane
A B C
Thoroughly clean the subfloor, then apply thin-set mortar Roll out the membrane over the mortar. Cut the membrane Repeat these steps, cutting the membrane as necessary at the
(see page 307) with a 1⁄8" notched trowel. Start spreading the to fit tightly against the walls, using a straightedge and util- walls and obstacles until the entire floor is covered. Do not
mortar along a wall in a section as wide as the membrane ity knife. Next, use a heavy flooring roller (available at rental overlap the seams, but make sure they are tight. Allow the
and 8 to 10 ft. long. NOTE: For some membranes, you must use centers, shown in step C) to smooth out the surface from the mortar to cure for two days before installing the tile.
a bonding material other than mortar. Read and follow label center toward the edges. This frees trapped air and presses
directions. out excess bonding material.
Installing Soundproofing Underlayment

A B C
Install cork soundproofing directly over a dry, level plywood Unroll sheets of cork the length of the room so the outside Roll the cork front to back and side to side using a floor roller.
underlayment placed over a plywood subfloor. Patch all face of the roll faces down. Butt the cork against the 2" strips Repeat steps B and C to adhere the other half of the cork to
holes, cracks, and joints in the underlayment with cement- at the wall. Pull back about half of the roll. Apply adhesive the plywood underlayment. Cover the rest of the floor the
based compound. Cut and apply 2" strips of cork to the base to the underlayment and spread it out, using a V-notched same way. Butt joints tightly together, but don’t overlap
of the walls, using a manufacturer-approved adhesive. trowel. Replace the cork over the adhesive. them.
Floor Finishes/ Underlayment 291

Floor Finishes
Installing Vinyl Flooring

Vinyl flooring is available both in sheets and ment surface. It’s also important to cut the to identify potential problems.
tiles. Sheet vinyl comes in 6- and 12-ft.-wide material so it fits perfectly along the contours Tiles with an obvious grain pattern can be
rolls. Most vinyl tiles are 12" squares, though of a room. Making a cutting template is the laid so the grain of each tile is oriented identi-
some manufacturers make 9" square tiles and best way to ensure that your cuts will be cor- cally throughout the installation. Or, you can
narrow, 2-ft.-long border strips. rect (see page 293). When handling sheet use the quarter-turn method, in which each tile
Sheet vinyl is a good choice for bathrooms, vinyl, remember that this product—especially is laid with its pattern grain running perpendic-
kitchens, and other moist locations, since it felt-backed—can crease and tear easily if not ular to that of adjacent tiles (see page 299).
has few seams for water to seep through; in handled carefully.
smaller rooms, you can install sheet vinyl with Make sure you use the recommended adhe-
no seams at all. Vinyl tiles perform best in dry sive for the sheet vinyl you are installing. Tools: Utility knife, framing square,
locations, where a floor with many seams is Many manufacturers require that you use their compass, scissors, nonpermanent felt-
not a liability. glue to install their flooring products and will tipped pen, linoleum knife, straightedge,
The quality of resilient flooring varies sig- void their warranties if you do not follow their
1
⁄4" V-notched trowel, J-roller, stapler,
nificantly and is based primarily on the directions exactly. Apply adhesive sparingly, flooring roller, chalk line, heat gun,
amount of vinyl in the material. Solid vinyl is using a 1⁄8"- or 1⁄4"-notched trowel.
1
⁄16" V-notched trowel.
the best and most expensive flooring. The To ensure a great-looking vinyl tile installa- Materials: Vinyl flooring, masking tape,
thickness of the flooring also is a good clue to tion, carefully position the layout lines. Once heavy butcher’s or brown wrapping
its quality; thicker materials have more vinyl those are established, the actual installation of paper, duct tape, flooring adhesive,
and are therefore more durable. the tile is relatively easy, especially if you are 3
⁄8" staples, metal threshold bars, nails.
The most important aspect of a sheet vinyl using self-adhesive tile. Before committing to
installation is creating a near-perfect underlay- any layout, however, be sure to dry-fit the tiles
Sheet vinyl comes in full-spread and perimeter-bond types. Full-spread sheet vinyl has a felt- Resilient tile comes in self-adhesive and dry-back styles. Self-adhesive tile has a preapplied
paper backing, and is secured with adhesive that is spread over the floor before installation. adhesive protected by a wax-paper backing that is peeled off as the tiles are installed. Dry-
Full-spread vinyl flooring bonds tightly to the floor and is unlikely to come loose, but it is more back tile is secured with adhesive spread onto the underlayment before installation.
difficult to install and requires a flawlessly smooth and clean underlayment.
Self-adhesive tile is easier to install than dry-back tile, but the bond is less reliable. Do not use
Perimeter-bond flooring, identifiable by its smooth, white PVC backing, is laid directly on additional adhesives with self-adhesive tile.
underlayment and is secured by a special adhesive spread only along the edges and seams.
It is easier to install and will tolerate some minor underlayment flaws.
292 Floor Finishes/ V inyl

Making a Cutting Template
A B
Place sheets of heavy butcher's or brown wrapping paper along the walls, leaving a 1⁄8" gap. Follow the outline of the room, working with one sheet of paper at a time. Overlap the edges
Cut triangular holes in the paper with a utility knife. Fasten the template to the floor by plac- of adjoining sheets by about 2" and tape the sheets together.
ing masking tape over the holes.
C D
To fit the template around pipes, tape sheets of paper on either side. Measure the distance Transfer the measurement to a separate piece of paper. Use a compass to draw the pipe
from the wall to the center of the pipe, and subtract 1⁄8" diameter onto the paper, then cut out the hole with scissors or a utility knife. Cut a slit from
the edge of the paper to the hole.
E F
Fit the hole cutout around the pipe. Tape the hole template to the adjoining sheets. When completed, roll or loosely fold the paper template for carrying.
Floor Finishes/ V inyl 293

Floor Finishes
Installing
Installing Perimeter-bond
Perimeter-bond Sheet
Sheet Vinyl Vinyl
A B
Unroll the flooring on any large, flat, clean surface. To prevent wrinkles, sheet vinyl comes For two-piece installations, overlap the edges of sheets by at least 2". Plan to have the seams
from the manufacturer rolled with the pattern side out. Unroll the sheet and turn it pattern- fall along the pattern lines or simulated grout joints. Align the sheets so that the pattern
side up for marking. matches, then tape the sheets together with duct tape.
C D
Position the paper template over the sheet vinyl, and tape it in place. Trace the outline of the Remove the template. Cut the sheet vinyl with a sharp linoleum knife or a utility knife with a
template onto the flooring with a nonpermanent felt-tipped pen. new blade. Use a straightedge as a guide for making longer cuts.

E F
Cut holes for pipes and other permanent obstructions. Then cut a slit from each hole to the Roll up flooring loosely and transfer it to the installation area. Do not fold the flooring. Unroll
nearest edge of the flooring. Whenever possible, make slits along pattern lines. and position the sheet vinyl carefully. Slide the edges beneath undercut door casings.
G H
Cut the seams for two-piece installations, using a straightedge as a guide. Hold the straight- Remove both pieces of scrap flooring. The pattern should now run continuously across the
edge tightly against the flooring, and cut along the pattern lines through both pieces of adjoining sheets of flooring.
vinyl flooring.

Floor Finishes
Installing Perimeter-bond Sheet Vinyl (cont.)
I J
Fold back the edges of both sheets and apply a 3" band of multipurpose flooring adhesive to Lay the seam edges one at a time into the adhesive. Make sure the seam is tight, pressing the
the underlayment or old flooring, using a 1⁄4" V-notched trowel or wallboard knife. gaps together with your fingers, if needed. Roll the seam edges with a J-roller or wallpaper
seam roller.
K L
Apply flooring adhesive underneath flooring cuts at pipes or posts and around the entire peri- If you are applying flooring over a wood underlayment, fasten the outer edges of the sheet
meter of the room. Roll the flooring with the roller to ensure good contact with the adhesive. with 3⁄8" staples driven every 3". Make sure the staples will be covered by the base molding.

Installing Full-spread Sheet Vinyl
A B
Cut the sheet vinyl using the techniques described on pages 294 to 295 (steps A through E), Pull back half of the flooring, then apply a layer of flooring adhesive over the underlayment
then lay the sheet vinyl into position, sliding the edges underneath door casings. or old flooring, using a 1⁄4" V-notched trowel. Lay the flooring back onto the adhesive.
C D
Roll the floor with a heavy flooring roller (available at rental centers), moving toward the Measure and cut metal threshold bars to fit across doorways, then position each bar over the
edges of the sheet. The roller creates a stronger bond and eliminates air bubbles. Fold over edge of the vinyl flooring and nail it in place.
the unbonded section of flooring, apply adhesive, then replace and roll the flooring. Wipe up
any adhesive that oozes up around the edges of the vinyl, using a damp rag.

Floor Finishes
Establishing Perpendicular Reference Lines for a Tile Installation
A B
x
x
Position a reference line (X) by measuring between opposite sides of the room and marking Measure and mark the centerpoint of the chalk line. From this point, use a framing square
the center of each side. Snap a chalk line between these marks. to establish a second line perpendicular to the first. Snap a second reference line (Y) across
the room.
C D
5'
y
4'
3'
x
Check for squareness using the “3-4-5 triangle” method. Measure and mark one reference line Measure the distance between the marks. If the reference lines are perpendicular, the distance
3 ft. from the centerpoint on line X. Measure and mark another reference line 4 ft. from the will measure exactly 5 ft. If not, adjust the reference lines until they are exactly perpendicular
centerpoint on line Y. to each other.

Installing Self-adhesive Vinyl Tile
A
Running pattern
Quarter-turn pattern
Mark perpendicular reference lines (see page 298), and establish the final layout for the tile Tip: Check for noticeable directional features, like the grain of the vinyl particles. You can
by dry-fitting full tiles along both reference lines. If you want to adjust the layout to make it choose to set the tile in a running pattern so the directional feature runs in the same direc-
visually symmetrical or to reduce tile cutting, create new layout lines parallel to the existing tion (top), or you can set the tiles in a checkerboard pattern, called the quarter-turn method
reference lines. Make sure the new lines are perpendicular to each other. To avoid confusion, (bottom).
use chalk of a different color to make the new lines.
B C
Peel off the paper backing and install the first tile in one of the corners formed by the inter- Begin installing tiles in the interior area of the quadrant, keeping the joints tight between
secting layout lines. Lay three or more tiles along each layout line in the quadrant. Rub the tiles. Finish setting full tiles in the first quadrant, then set the full tiles in an adjacent quad-
entire surface of each tile to bond the adhesive to the floor underlayment. rant. Set the tiles along the layout lines first, then fill in the interior tiles.

Floor Finishes
Installing Self-adhesive Vinyl Tile (cont.)
D
NOTE: Cut tiles shown inverted

for clarity; tiles should be
faceup for marking.
Cut tiles to fit against the walls. First, lay the tile to be cut (A) faceup on top of the last full Tip: To mark tiles for cutting around outside corners, first make a cardboard template to
tile you installed. Position a 1⁄8"-thick spacer against the wall, then set a marker tile (B) on top match the space, with a 1⁄8" gap along the walls. After cutting the template, check to make
of the tile to be cut. The uncovered portion of the tile to be cut will be the part you install. sure it fits. Place the template on a tile, and trace its outline.
Trace along the edge of the marker tile to draw a cutting line.
Cut the tile to fit, using a straightedge and a utility knife. Hold the straightedge securely Tip: Make curved cuts in thick, rigid resilient tile by heating the back of the tile with a heat
against the cutting lines to ensure a straight cut. You can also use a ceramic-tile cutter (see gun first, then cutting it while it’s still warm.
page 307) to make straight cuts in thick vinyl tiles.

F
Install cut tiles next to the walls. TIP: For efficiency, you can precut all tiles, but first measure room is completely covered. Check the entire floor, and if you find loose areas, press down on
the distance between the wall and installed tiles at various points to make sure the variation the tiles to bond them to the underlayment. Install metal threshold bars at project borders
does not exceed 1⁄2". Continue installing tile in the remaining working quadrants until the where the new floor joins another floor covering (see page 297).
Installing Dry-back Vinyl Tile

A B
Make perpendicular reference lines (see page 298), and dry-lay tiles to establish the final Spread adhesive over most of the installation area, covering three quadrants. Allow the adhe-
layout (see step A, page 299). Apply adhesive around the intersection of the layout lines, sive to set according to the manufacturer's instructions, then begin to install the tile at the
using a trowel with 1⁄16" V-shaped notches. Hold the trowel at a 45° angle, and spread adhe- intersection of the layout lines. (You can kneel on installed tiles to lay additional tiles.) When
sive evenly over the surface. one quadrant is completely tiled, spread adhesive over the remaining quadrants, then finish
setting the tile.

Floor Finishes
Installing a Floor-sensing
thermostat
Timer
Floor-warming Dedicated
circuit cable
System
Ceramic tile is a great floor covering, but it
comes with one significant drawback: It can be
cold on bare feet. An easy way to remedy this
problem is to install a floor-warming system.
A typical floor-warming system consists of Electrical
one or more thin mats containing electric conduit
resistance wires that heat up when energized—
like an electric blanket. The mats are installed
underneath the floor tile and are hard-wired to Power lead
a 120-volt GFCI circuit. A thermostat controls
the floor temperature, and a timer turns the
system on or off automatically. Floor-warming
systems require very little energy to run and
are designed to heat floors only; they generally
are not used as sole heat sources for rooms.
The system shown in this project includes Floor tile
two plastic-mesh mats, each with its own
power lead that is wired directly to the ther-
mostat. The mats are laid over a concrete floor
and then covered with thin-set adhesive and
ceramic tile. If your project involves a wood Thermostat
Thin-set sensor wire
subfloor, install cementboard (see page 290) mortar
before laying the mats. Heating Heating
A crucial part of installing this system is to Heating mat mat
perform several resistance checks to make sure mat
the heating wires have not been damaged dur- Concrete
ing shipping or during the installation. (or subfloor)
Electrical service required for a floor-warming
system is based on its size. A smaller system Tools: Multi-tester, drill, plumb bob,
may connect to an existing GFCI circuit, but a chisel, tubing cutter, combination tool,
larger system will need a dedicated circuit; vacuum, chalk line, grinder, glue gun,
check with the manufacturer for requirements. fish tape, aviation snips, 3⁄8" × 1⁄4" square-
The Wiring section of this book can help you notched trowel, tile tools (see page 307).
with installing electrical boxes, running circuit
Materials: Floor-warming system,
cable, and making basic connections. If you’re
21⁄2 × 4" double-gang electrical box with
installing a new circuit, you’ll probably want to 4" adapter cover, 21⁄2"-deep single-gang
hire an electrician to make the connection at electrical box, 1⁄2"dia. thin-wall conduit,
the service panel. setscrew fittings, 12-gauge NM cable, Floor-warming systems must be installed on a circuit with
To order a floor-warming system, contact cable clamps, double-sided tape, electri- adequate amperage and a GFCI breaker (some systems have
the manufacturer or dealer. In most cases, you cal tape, insulated cable clamps, wire built-in GFCIs). Smaller systems may tie into an existing cir-
can send them plans of your project area, and connectors, tile materials (see page 306). cuit but larger ones often need a dedicated circuit. Follow all
they’ll custom-fit a system for your project. local building and electrical codes that apply to your project.
302 Floor Finishes/ Floor-warming System

Installing a Floor-warming System
A B
Check the resistance value (OHM) of each heating mat, using a digital multi-tester. Record the Install the electrical boxes for the thermostat and timer at an accessible location. Remove the
reading. Compare your reading to the factory-tested reading noted by the manufacturer. wall surface to expose the framing. Locate the boxes approximately 60" from the floor, mak-
Your reading must fall within the acceptable range determined by the manufacturer. If it does ing sure the power leads of the heating mats will reach the double-gang electrical box. Mount
not, the mat has been damaged and should not be installed; contact the manufacturer for a 21⁄2"-deep × 4"-wide double-gang electrical box (for the thermostat) to the wall stud closest
assistance. to the determined location, and a single-gang electrical box (for the timer) on the other side
of the stud.
C D
Setscrew
fittings
Use a plumb bob or level to mark points on the bottom wall plate, directly below the two Cut two lengths of 1⁄2" thin-wall electrical conduit to fit between the thermostat box and the
knockouts on the thermostat box. At each mark, drill a 1⁄2" hole down through the top of the bottom plate, using a tube cutter. Place the bottom end of each conduit about 1⁄4" into a hole
plate. Then, drill two more holes as close as possible to the floor through the side of the plate, in the bottom plate, and fasten the top end to the thermostat box, using a setscrew fitting.
intersecting the top holes. The holes will be used for routing the power leads and thermostat NOTE: If you are installing three or more mats, use 3⁄4" conduit instead of 1⁄2".
sensor wire. Clean up the holes with a chisel to ensure smooth routing. Continued on next page
Floor Finishes/ Floor-warming System 303

Floor Finishes
Installing a Floor-warming System (cont.)
E F
Branch cable
Cable from
power source
2" minimum
Run 12-gauge NM electrical cable from the service panel (power source) to the timer box. Vacuum the floor thoroughly. Plan the ceramic tile layout and snap reference lines for the tile
Attach the cable to the box with a cable clamp, leaving 8" of extra cable extending from the installation (see pages 298 to 299). Spread the heating mats onto the floor with the power
box. Drill a 5⁄8" hole through the center of the stud, about 12" above the boxes. Run a short leads closest to the electrical boxes. Position the mats 3" to 6" away from walls, showers, bath-
branch cable from the timer box to the thermostat box, securing both ends with clamps. The tubs, and toilet flanges. You can lay the mats into the kick space of a vanity but not under
branch cable should make a smooth curve where it passes through the stud. the vanity cabinet or over expansion joints in the concrete slab. Set the edges of the mats close
together, but do not overlap them: The heating wires in one mat must be at least 2" from the
wires in the neighboring mat.
G H
Confirm that the power leads still reach the thermostat box. Then, secure the mats to the floor Create recesses in the floor for the connections between the power leads and the heating-mat
using strips of double-sided tape spaced every 2 ft. Make sure the mats are lying flat with no wires, using a grinder or a cold chisel and hammer. These insulated connections are too thick
wrinkles or ripples. Press down firmly to secure the mats to the tape. to lay under the tile and must be recessed to within 1⁄8" of the floor. Clean away any debris,
and secure the connections in the recesses with a bead of hot glue.
304 Floor Finishes/ Floor-warming System

I J
Thread a steel fish tape down one of the conduits, and attach the ends of the power leads to Feed the heat sensor wire down through the remaining conduit and weave it into the mesh
the fish tape, using electrical tape. Pull the fish tape and leads up through the conduit. of the nearest mat. Use dabs of hot glue to secure the sensor wire directly between two blue
Disconnect the fish tape, and secure the leads to the box with insulated cable clamps. Use avi- resistance wires, extending it 6" to 12" into the mat. Test the resistance of the heating mats
ation snips or linesman’s pliers to cut off excess from the leads, leaving 8" extending from the with a multi-tester (see step A, page 303) to make sure the resistance wires have not been
clamps. damaged. Record the reading.
K L
Adapter cover
Sensor wire
Install the floor tile as directed on pages 306 to 315. Use thin-set mortar as an adhesive, and Install an adapter cover (“mud ring”) to the thermostat box, then patch the wall opening
spread it carefully over the floor and mats with a 3⁄8" × 1⁄4" square-notched trowel. Check the with wallboard (see pages 224 to 233). Complete the wiring connections for the thermostat
resistance of the mats periodically during the tile installation. If a mat becomes damaged, and timer, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the sensor wire to the thermo-
clean up any exposed mortar and contact the manufacturer. When the installation is com- stat setscrew connection. Apply the manufacturer’s wiring labels to the thermostat box and
plete, check the resistance of the mats once again and record the reading. service panel. Mount the thermostat and timer. Complete the circuit connection at the service
panel or branch connection. After the flooring materials have fully cured, test the system.
Floor Finishes/ Floor-warming System 305

Floor Finishes
Installing Ceramic Floor Tile

Tile flooring should be durable and slip-
resistant. Look for floor tile that is textured
or soft-glazed—for slip resistance—and has
a Class or Group rating of 3, 4, or 5—for
strength. Floor tile also should be glazed for
protection from staining. If you use unglazed
tile, be sure to seal it properly after installa-
tion. Standard grouts need stain-protection,
too. Mix your grout with a latex additive, and
apply a grout sealer after the new grout sets,
then reapply the sealer once a year thereafter.
Successful tile installation involves careful
preparation of the floor and the proper combi-
nation of materials. For an underlayment,
cementboard (or the thinner fiber/cement-
board) is the best for use over wood subfloors,
since it is stable and resists moisture (see pages
288 and 290). However, in rooms where mois-
ture isn’t a factor, plywood is an adequate
underlayment. The most common adhesive
for floor tile is called thin-set, which comes as
a dry powder that is mixed with water. Pre-
mixed organic adhesives generally are not
recommended for floors.
Ceramic tile installations start with the same
steps as vinyl tile projects: snapping perpen-
dicular layout lines and dry-laying tiles for
best placement (see pages 298 to 299). If you
want to install trim tiles, consider their place-
ment as you plan the layout. Some base-trim
tile is set on the floor, with its finished edge
A flush with the field tile; other types are
installed on top of the field tile, after the field
tile is laid and grouted (see page 313).
Tools: Chalk line, 1⁄4" square-notched

trowel, rubber mallet, tile-cutting tools
(see pages 307 to 309), needlenose pli-
ers, utility knife, grout float, grout
B C sponge, buff rag, foam brush.
Materials: Tile, thin-set mortar, tile
Trim and finishing materials for tile installations include base-trim tiles (A), which fit around the room perimeter, and bull- spacers, 2 × 4, threshold material,
nose tiles (B), used at doorways and other transition areas. Doorway thresholds (C) are made from synthetic materials as well grout, latex additive (mortar and
as natural materials, such as marble, and come in thicknesses ranging from 1⁄4" to 3⁄4" to match different floor levels. The grout), grout sealer, silicone caulk.
longest-lasting thresholds are made from solid-surface mineral products. If the threshold is too long for the doorway, cut it
to fit with a jig saw or circular saw and a tungsten-carbide blade.
306 Floor Finishes/ Ceramic Tile

B
Tile tools include adhesive-spreading tools, cutting tools,

J D K and grouting tools. Notched trowels (A) for spreading mortar
come with notches of varying sizes and shapes; the size of the
notch should be proportional to the size of the tile being
installed. Cutting tools include tile cutters (B), tile nippers (C),
G hand-held tile cutter (D), and jig saw with carbide blade (E).
Grouting tools include a grout float (F); grout sponge (G);
L and foam brush (H), for applying grout sealer. Other tile
A
H tools include spacers (I), available in different sizes to create
E I grout joints of varying widths; needlenose pliers (J), for
removing spacers; rubber mallet (K), for setting tiles into
mortar; and caulk gun (L).
A C
B
D
E
H
G
F
Tile materials include adhesives, grouts, and sealers. Thin-set mortar (A), the most common floor-tile adhesive, is often Thin-set mortar is prepared by adding liquid, a little at a
strengthened with latex mortar additive (B). Grout additive (C) can be added to floor grout (D) to make it more resilient and time, to the dry powder and stirring the mixture to achieve a
durable. Grout fills the spaces between tiles and is available in pretinted colors to match your tile. Silicone caulk (E) should be creamy consistency. Some mortars include a latex additive in
used in place of grout where tile meets another surface, like a bathtub. Use wall-tile adhesive (F) for installing base-trim tile. the dry mix, but with others you’ll need to add liquid latex
Grout sealer (G) and porous-tile sealer (H) ward off stains and make maintenance easier. additive when you prepare the mortar.
Floor Finishes/ Ceramic Tile 307

Floor Finishes
Cutting Tile: Wet Saws
To make straight cuts, place the tile on the sliding table and lock the fence to hold the tile For notched cuts, cut along the marked line on one side of the notch. Turn the tile and cut
in place, then press down on the tile as you slide it past the blade. along the other line to complete the notch. To keep the tile from breaking before you’re
through, slow down as you get close to the intersection with the first cut.
To create irregular notches, first make a paper template of the contour or use a contour Cut the irregular notch by making a series of closely spaced, parallel cuts, then nip away
gauge. To use a contour gauge, press the gauge onto the profile and trace it onto the tile. the waste.

Cutting Tile: Specialty Cuts
For small notch cuts, use tile nippers. Score the lines and To make a curved cut, mark a cutting line on the tile face, Finish the curved cut using tile nippers to nibble away the
then nibble up to the lines, biting very small pieces at a time. then use the scoring wheel of a hand-held tile cutter to score scored portion of the tile.
the cut line. Make several parallel scores, no more than 1⁄4"
apart, in the waste portion of the tile.
Drill holes in tile using a tungsten carbide hole saw in the Another method for cutting holes involves scoring and cut- To cut mosaic tiles, score cuts with a tile cutter in the row
appropriate size and attach it to a power drill. Make a dim- ting the tile so the hole is divided in half. Use the straight-cut where the cut will occur. Cut away excess strips of mosaics
ple with a center punch to break the tile glaze, then place the method (see page 308), then the curved-cut method (above) from the sheet, using a utility knife, then use a handheld tile
tip at the marked center and drill the hole. to remove waste material from each half of the circle. cutter to snap tiles one at a time. NOTE: Use tile nippers to cut
narrow portions of tiles after scoring.

Floor Finishes
Installing Ceramic Floor Tile
A B
Draw reference lines and establish the tile layout (see pages 298 to 299). Mix a batch of thin- Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the reference lines intersect. TIP: When
set mortar, and spread the mortar evenly against both reference lines of one quadrant, using setting tiles that are 8" square or larger, twist each tile slightly as you set it into position.
a 1⁄4" square-notched trowel. Use the notched edge of the trowel to create furrows in the mor-
tar bed. NOTE: For large or uneven tiles, you may need a trowel with 3⁄8" or larger notches.
C D
Using a soft rubber mallet, gently rap the central area of Variation: For mosaic sheets, use a 3⁄16" V-notched trowel to To ensure consistent spacing between tiles, place plastic tile
each tile a few times to set it evenly into the mortar. spread the mortar, and use a grout float to press the sheets spacers at corners of the set tile. NOTE: With mosaic sheets, use
into the mortar. Apply pressure gently to avoid creating an spacers equal to the gaps between tiles.
uneven surface.

E F
Position and set adjacent tiles into the mortar along the reference lines. Make sure the tiles fit Measure and mark tiles for cutting to fit against walls and into corners (see page 300). Cut
neatly against the spacers. To make sure the tiles are level with one another, lay a straight the tiles to fit. Apply thin-set mortar directly to the back of the cut tiles, instead of the floor,
piece of 2 × 4 across several tiles, and rap the board with a mallet. Lay tile in the remaining using the notched edge of the trowel to furrow the mortar. Set the tiles.
area covered with mortar. Repeat steps A through E, continuing to work in small sections,
until you reach walls or fixtures.
G H I
Measure, cut, and install tiles requiring notches or curves to Remove the spacers with needlenose pliers before the mortar Install threshold material in doorways. Set the threshold in
fit around obstacles, such as exposed pipes or toilet drains. hardens. TIP: Inspect the tile joints and remove high spots of thin-set mortar so the top is even with the tile. Keep the same
mortar that could show through the grout, using a utility space between the threshold as between tiles. Let the mortar
knife or small screwdriver. Install tile in the remaining quad- cure for at least 24 hours.
rants, completing one quadrant at a time. Continued on next page

Floor Finishes
Installing Ceramic Floor Tile (cont.)
J K
Mix a small batch of grout, following the manufacturer’s directions. TIP: For unglazed or stone Use the grout float to remove excess grout from the surface of the tile. Wipe diagonally across
tile, add a release agent to prevent the grout from bonding to the tile surfaces. Starting in a the joints, holding the float in a near-vertical position. Continue applying grout and wiping
corner, pour the grout over the tile. Use a rubber grout float to spread the grout outward off excess until about 25 sq. ft. of the floor has been grouted.
from the corner, pressing firmly on the float to completely fill the joints. For best results, tilt
the float at a 60° angle to the floor and use a figure-eight motion.
L M
Remove excess grout by wiping a damp grout sponge diagonally over about 2 sq. ft. of the After the grout has cured completely (check the manufacturer’s instructions), apply grout
tile at a time. Rinse the sponge in cool water between wipes. Wipe each area only once; sealer to the grout lines, using a small sponge brush or sash brush. Avoid brushing sealer on
repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints. Repeat steps J through L to apply grout to the the tile surfaces. Wipe up any excess sealer immediately.
rest of the floor. Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a soft cloth to buff the tile
surface and remove any remaining grout film.

Installing Base & Trim Tile
A B
Dry-fit the trim tiles to determine the best spacing (grout lines in base tile do not always align Leaving a 1⁄8" expansion gap between tiles at corners, mark any contour cuts necessary to
with grout lines in the floor tile). Use rounded bullnose tiles at outside corners, and mark tiles allow the coved edges to fit together. Use a jig saw with a tungsten-carbide blade to make
for cutting as needed. curved cuts.
C D E
Double-bullnose tile
Begin installing base-trim tiles at an inside corner. Use a At outside corners, use a double-bullnose tile on one side, to After the adhesive dries, grout the vertical joints between
notched trowel to apply wall-tile adhesive to the back of each cover the edge of the adjoining tile. tiles, and apply grout along the tops of the tiles to make a
tile. Slip 1⁄8" spacers under the tiles to create an expansion continuous grout line. After the grout cures, fill the expansion
joint. Set the tiles by pressing them firmly onto the wall. joint at the bottom of the tiles with silicone caulk.

Floor Finishes
Setting a Running Bond Tile Pattern
A B C
Start running bond tile by dry-fitting tile to establish working Starting at a point where the layout lines intersect, spread Continue setting tiles, filling one quadrant at a time. Use the
reference lines. Dry-fit a few tiles side by side using spacers. thin-set mortar to a small section and lay the first row of tiles. parallel reference lines as guides to keep the rows straight.
Measure the total width of the fitted section (A). Use this mea- Apply mortar directly to the underside of any tiles that extend Immediately wipe away any mortar from the surface of the
surement to snap a series of equally spaced parallel lines to outside the mortar bed. Offset the next row by a measure- tiles. When finished, allow the mortar to cure, then grout and
help keep your tiles straight during installation. ment that’s equal to one-half the length of the tile and clean the tile (see page 312).
one-half the width of the grout line.
Setting Hexagonal Tile

A =
B
B
A
Snap perpendicular reference lines on the underlayment. Lay out three or four tiles in each Apply thin-set mortar to small sections at a time and begin setting tile (see pages 310 to 311).
direction along the layout lines. Place plastic spacers between the tiles to maintain even spac- Apply mortar directly to the underside of any tiles that extend outside the mortar bed.
ing. Measure the length of this layout in both directions (A and B). Use measurement A to Continue setting the tiles, using the grid layout and spacers to keep the tiles aligned. Wipe off
snap a series of equally spaced parallel lines across the entire floor, then do the same for mea- any mortar from the tile surface. When finished, allow the mortar to set, then grout.
surement B in the other direction.

Laying a Diagonal Pattern with a Perpendicular Border
A B
Measure the length and width of the room in which you’ll be installing the border. Transfer Place the transparency of the border over the room drawing. Move it around to find the best
the measurements onto paper by making a scale drawing of the room. Include the locations layout. Tape the border transparency in place over the room drawing. Draw perpendicular lines
of cabinets, doors, and furniture that will be in the room. Determine the size of the border through the center of the border and calculate the distance from the center lines to the bor-
you want. Bordered designs should be between 1⁄4 and 1⁄2 the area of the room. Draw the border. Transfer the measurements from the border transparency onto your floor, starting with
der on transparency paper, using the same scale as the room drawing. your center lines (see pages 298 to 299). Snap chalk lines to establish your layout for the border.
C D
Dry-fit the border tiles with spacers in the reference lines. Dry-fit the outside corners of the border arrangement. Adjust the Draw diagonal layout lines at a 45° angle to the perpendic-
tile positions as necessary to create a layout with minimal cutting. When the layout of the tiles is set, snap chalk lines around ular reference lines. Use standard tile-setting techniques (see
the border tiles and trace along the edges of the outside tiles. Install the border tiles (see page 310 and 311). pages 310 to 311) to set field tiles inside the border. Kneel on
a wide board to distribute your weight if you need to work
in a tiled area that has not cured overnight.

Floor Finishes
Installing Laminate Flooring

Wood flooring has undeniable appeal, but a sanded and refinished if necessary. should be glued down, while panels and strips
traditional solid-hardwood plank floor is There are several options for installing lami- can be glued down or floated. During installa-
expensive and difficult to install. Fortunately, nated-wood flooring. It can be nailed to a tion, strap clamps are often used to bring
there’s a host of laminated-wood products now wood subfloor, glued down, or “floated” over a joints together (check with the manufacturer).
available that are designed for do-it-yourself subfloor or an existing floor covering. A float- Parquet flooring is another type of lami-
installation. These products offer the strength, ing floor starts with a layer of foam backing nated-wood flooring. This usually comes in
durability, and attractiveness of traditional that is laid over the subfloor. The individual 12" squares made from small strips of solid
wood flooring along with some added benefits. strips or planks are then glued together to wood. Parquet flooring is installed with adhe-
Laminated-wood flooring is commonly form a solid layer that “floats” on top of the sive, using the same installation strategy used
available in two types: wood laminates and foam. for vinyl tile (see pages 298 to 301).
plastic laminates. Both types are designed and Plastic laminate flooring is made of hard-
prefinished to resist dents, scratches, stains, board or fiberboard topped with a photo-
and fading. They’re also easy to clean and graphic image of wood or stone or a solid Tools: Chalk line, circular saw, cutting
should never need sanding or waxing. color or pattern. These products come in guide, coping saw or jig saw, power miter
Wood laminates are made with layers of tongue-and-groove tiles, strips, planks, and in saw (optional), 1⁄8" notched trowel, hard-
solid lumber (similar to plywood) with a top specialty trim and transition pieces. Plastic wood-flooring tool bar (optional), mallet,
layer of real wood veneer. They’re available in laminates tend to be thinner than wood lami- flooring roller, flooring nailer (optional).
3- and 5-ply tongue-and-groove strips or nates, which adds less height to a floor. Materials: Flooring, flooring adhesive,
planks. Wood laminates have a tough However, be aware that some plastic laminates wood glue, cardboard, foam backing,
polyurethane or acrylic finish, which protects are not recommended for wet areas. scissors, masking tape, 1⁄2" plywood scraps.
the floor, but many of these products can be As for installation, plastic laminate tiles
Plywood
Fiberboard
Parquet
Laminated-wood flooring materials include: fiberboard surfaced with a synthetic laminate layer that mimics the look of wood grain (left), plywood topped with a thin hardwood veneer
(center), and parquet tiles made of hardwood strips bonded together in a decorative pattern (right).
316 Floor Finishes/ Laminated-wood

Tips for Cutting Wood Flooring
Ripcut wood planks from the back side to avoid splintering the top surface. Measure the dis- Place another piece of flooring next to the piece marked for cutting to provide a stable sur-
tance from the wall to the edge of the last board installed, subtracting 1⁄2" to allow for an face for the foot of the saw. Also, clamp a cutting guide to the planks at the correct distance
expansion gap. Transfer the measurement to the back of the flooring, and mark the cut with from the cutting line to ensure a straight cut.
a chalk line.
Crosscut wood planks on a power miter box, with the top surface of the planks facing up to Make notched or curved cuts in wood flooring with a coping saw or jig saw. If you’re using
prevent splintering. To make crosscuts with a circular saw, cut with the finished side of the a jig saw, the finished surface of the flooring should face down if you have an up-cutting
planks facing down. blade; up if you have a down-cutting blade.
Floor Finishes/ Laminated-wood 317

Floor Finishes
Installing Tongue-&-Groove Flooring
A B C
Cover the entire subfloor with rosin paper. Staple the paper Make a mark on the floor 1⁄2" from the starter wall at both Lay out the first 8 rows of flooring in a dry run with the
to the subfloor, overlapping edges by 4". Cut the paper with ends of the wall. Snap a chalk line between the marks. Nail groove side facing the wall. Make sure the first row of boards
a utility knife to butt against the walls. 8d finish nails every 2" to 3" along the chalk line to mark the is straight. Arrange the boards to get a good color and grain
location for your first row. mix. Offset the ends by at least 6".
D E
Place the starter row against the nails on the chalk line. Drill Drill pilot holes every 6" to 8" directly above the tongue, keep- Tip: To install crooked boards, drill pilot holes above the
pilot holes in the flooring every 6" to 8", about 1⁄2" from the ing the drill at a 45° angle. tongue and insert nails. Fasten a scrap board to the subfloor
groove edge. Facenail the first row until the nail heads are using screws. Force the floorboard straight using a pry bar
just above the boards, then sink them using a nail set. (Be and a scrap board placed in front of the flooring. With pres-
careful not to hit the boards with your hammer or you’ll mar sure on the floorboard, blind-nail it into place.
the surface.)
318 Floor Finishes/ Tongue-and-Groove Flooring

F G H
Blind-nail a nail into each pilot hole. Keep the nail heads 1⁄2" Set the second row of boards in place against the starter row, To install the last board in a row, place the tongue-
out, then set them just below the surface, using a nail set. fitting together the tongue-and-groove connections. Use a and-groove joints together, then place a flooring pull bar
scrap board and rubber mallet to tap the floorboards over the end of the board. Hit the end of the pull bar with a
together. Drill pilot holes and blind-nail the boards. Do this hammer until the board slides into place. Stay 1⁄2" away from
for the next few rows. the walls.
I J
Once you have several rows installed and have enough room, use a flooring nailer. Place the When you’re out of room for the power nailer, drill pilot holes and blind-nail the boards. For
nailer lip over the edge of the board and strike it with a rubber mallet. Drive a nail 2" from the last rows, drill pilot holes in the top of the boards, 1⁄2" from the tongue, and facenail them.
the end of each board and about every 8" in the field. Keep a few rows of flooring laid out The last row may need to be ripped to size. Pull the last row into place using the flooring pull
ahead of you as you work, and keep the joints staggered. bar, leaving a 1⁄2" gap along the wall. Drill pilot holes and facenail.
Floor Finishes/ Tongue-and-Groove Flooring 319

Floor Finishes
Installing Tongue-&-Groove Flooring (cont.)
K
Install a reducer strip or transition strip between the wood Tip: To install around an object, cut a notch in the board. For Tip: To reverse directions of the tongue-and-groove for door-
floor and an adjoining room. Cut the strip to size. Fit the larger obstacles, cut 45° miters in boards so the grooves face ways, glue a spline into the groove of the board. Fit the
strip’s groove over the floorboard’s tongue, then drill pilot away from the object. Rip the tongues off the boards. Set the groove of the next board onto the spline, then nail the board
holes and facenail. Set the nails with a nail set. Fill all visible boards against the object and the flooring, fitting the in place.
nail holes with wood putty. mitered ends together. Drill pilot holes and facenail in place.
Apply silicone caulk between the floor and obstacle.
Installing Wood Strip Flooring with Adhesive

A B C
Establish a straight layout line by snapping a chalk line par- Apply flooring adhesive to the subfloor on the other side of Apply wood glue to the grooved end of each piece as you
allel to the longest wall, about 30" from the wall. Kneel in this the layout line using a 1⁄8" notched trowel, following the man- install it. The glue will help the end joints stay tight—do not
space to begin the flooring installation. ufacturer's directions. Cover only a limited area, so that you apply glue to the long sides of the boards.
can install and roll the flooring within 3 hours (see step H).
320 Floor Finishes/ Tongue-and-Groove Flooring

D E
Install the first row of flooring with the edge of the tongues For succeeding rows, insert the tongue of each strip into the grooves of the strips in the preceding row, and pivot the strip
directly over chalk line. Make sure the end joints are tight; down into the adhesive. Gently slide the tongue-and-groove ends together. Make sure the end-joints are staggered from one
wipe up any excess glue immediately. At walls, leave a 1⁄2" row to another. TIP: At walls, you can use a hammer and a hardwood-flooring tool bar to draw together the joints on the
space to allow for expansion of the wood. This gap will be last strip (inset).
covered by the baseboard and base shoe.
F G H
After you've installed three or four rows, use a mallet and a Use a cardboard template to fit boards in irregular areas. Continue laying strips over the glued area, then bond the
scrap of flooring to tap boards together, closing up the Cut the cardboard to match the space, and allow for a 1⁄2" flooring by rolling it with a heavy flooring roller (available at
seams. All joints should fit tightly. expansion gap next to the walls. Trace the template outline rental centers). Roll the flooring within 3 hours of applying
onto a board, then cut it to fit, using a jig saw. the adhesive. Install the remaining sections of flooring.
Floor Finishes/ Tongue -and-Groove Flooring 321

Floor Finishes
Installing a Floating Floor
A B C
Choose the manufacturer’s recommended underlayment and Place 1⁄2" spacers along the starting wall to provide a gap for Install successive rows of flooring by lifting the panels at a 45°
roll it out to fit the entire floor. Do not overlap seams. expansion of the flooring. Set the first row of flooring against angle and sliding them into the tongue of the preceding pan-
the spacers with the groove side facing the wall. els until they lock into place. Stagger joints by at least 8".
D E
After locking the long edge of the panel in place, slide the At the end of the rows, use a floor pull bar and hammer to Turn panels facedown to cut. Mark the appropriate length,
panel back to fit the short edge into the tongue of the last fit the last board into place. Leave a 1⁄2" gap along walls. then cut along the mark using a circular saw. Cutoff pieces
panel in the row. Use a mallet and scrap piece of wood to can be used to begin the next row, provided they are at least
gently tap it into place. 10" long.
322 Floor Finishes/ Floating Floor

F G
For the last row of flooring, place panels directly over the last Set the last row of panels in place. If needed, use the floor pull To fit panels around obstacles place the board next to the
installed row. Place a third panel on top of the second and bar to pull the panels in place. After all the panels are obstacle, mark it, and cut it with a jig saw. Set the board in
butt the side against the 1⁄2" spacers along the wall. Trace installed, apply a bead of caulk along the edge of the floor- place by locking the tongue-and-groove joints with the pre-
along the edge of the panel onto the second panel, then cut ing to prevent water intrusion. ceding board.
the second panel to size.
Installing a Floating Floor Using Glue

A B C
Follow the same installation process for glueless floors, but Place the groove in the plank over the tongue of the preced- Wipe away excess glue in the joints with a damp cloth before
rather than locking the tongue-and-groove connections, ing plank. Place a scrap piece of wood against the plank and it dries.
apply the manufacturer’s recommended glue to the grooves use a mallet to tap it into place. Install remaining planks the
in the planks. Be sure to also glue the end joints. same way.
Floor Finishes/ Floating Floor 323

Floor Finishes
Installing Carpet
For beginners, laying carpet can be a time- be invisible and fall in low-traffic areas. them. Once the carpet is roughly in place, you
consuming job, but as you gain confidence Most installations require that you stretch can easily finish the project on your own.
using the specialty tools and techniques, the the carpet with specialty tools, using a care- For a one-piece carpet installation in a room
work becomes much easier. For best results, fully planned stretching sequence. If you’ve narrower than the carpet roll, it’s usually easi-
read through this entire project (see pages 324 had little experience laying carpet, practice est to roll out the carpet in a more spacious
to 343) before you begin. seaming, stretching, and trimming techniques area, such as in a basement or on a driveway,
Careful planning and layout are critical steps on scrap pieces before starting the installation. then loosely fold it lengthwise to move it into
for carpet installation. In large rooms where Have a helper on hand for the initial stages the project area.
you might join together several pieces of car- of your project, when you will be moving the Be sure to use the proper pad for your
pet, a proper layout ensures that the seams will heavy rolls of carpet into position and cutting carpeting and application, and secure it as
recommended. (The free pad you receive with
your carpeting may not be the pad recom-
mended by the carpet manufacturer.) Check
the carpet’s label for warranty information and
pad recommendations.
This carpeting project demonstrates how to
install standard wall-to-wall carpet. Installing
cushion-backed carpet is somewhat different:
It is cut and seamed like standard carpet but is
not stretched and does not require tackless
strips. Instead, it is laid using the full-bond
adhesive method (see page 297).
Carpet Tiles
Many home centers offer carpet tiles
(inset, left) that can be floated over a
subfloor without fasteners or glue. The
tiles have padded backing and can be
lifted out for cleaning or replacement.
Carpet tiles have been used in institu-
tional settings for years because
individual worn tiles could be removed
and replaced without disturbing the
whole floor. For homeowners, carpet tiles
are a good way to install carpet quickly
(they're also excellent for rooms that are
frequently soiled or damaged), but it is
not always less expensive than standard
carpet, and concealing the seams
requires care during installation.
324 Floor Finishes/ Car pet

Installing Carpet: A Step-by-Step Overview
A B
Install carpet transitions at doorways or where the new carpet will meet other floor coverings Install tackless strips around the perimeter of the room for securing the carpet, then roll out
(see pages 332 to 333). the carpet pad, cut it to fit, and staple it to the floor (see pages 334 to 335).
C D
Roll out the carpet and rough-cut it to fit the dimensions of the room. Where necessary, join Use a power stretcher and knee kicker to stretch the carpet and attach it to the tackless strips,
pieces of carpet with hot-glue seam tape (see pages 336 to 339). then trim excess carpet along the edges (see pages 340 to 342).
Floor Finishes/ Car pet 325

Floor Finishes
Buying & Estimating Carpet
When choosing carpet, consider more than widths of a certain carpet may also affect your carpet-sample labels for the manufacturer’s
just color and pattern. The material used and decision, because a roll that’s wide enough to recommendations. Because carpet and pad-
the construction can affect a carpet’s durabil- cover a room eliminates the need for seaming. ding work together to create a floor-covering
ity: In high-traffic areas, such as hallways, a When seaming is unavoidable, calculate the system, it makes sense to use the best pad you
top-quality fiber will result in longer wear. total square footage to be covered, then add can afford. In addition to making your carpet
Carpet construction—the way in which the 20% for trimming and seaming. feel more plush underfoot, the pad makes your
fibers are attached to the backing—affects The type of carpet you choose will dictate floor quieter and warmer. A high-quality pad
both durability and appearance. The available the type of pad you should use; always check also helps reduce carpet wear.
Tips for Evaluating Carpet

Consider fiber composition when selecting a carpet, and choose materials with
characteristics suited for your application.
Fiber Type Characteristics
Nylon Easy to clean, very durable, good stain resistance;
colors sometimes fade in direct sunlight.
Polyester Excellent stain resistance, very soft in thick cut-pile
constructions; colors don't fade in sunlight.
Olefin Virtually stain- and fade-proof, resists moisture
and static; not as resilient as nylon or as soft
as polyester.
Acrylic Resembles wool in softness and look, good moisture
resistance; less durable than other synthetics.
Wool Luxurious look and feel, good durability and
warmth; more costly and less stain-resistant
than synthetics.
Labels on the back of samples usually tell you the fiber com-
position, the available widths (usually 12 or 15 ft.), what
antistain treatments and other finishes were applied, and
details of the product warranty.
Carpet padding comes in several varieties, including:

bonded urethane foam (A), cellular sponge rubber (B),
grafted prime foam (C), and prime urethane (D). Bonded
urethane padding is suitable for low-traffic areas, and prime
urethane and grafted prime foam are better for high-traffic
areas. Generally, cut pile, cut-and-loop, and high-level loop
carpets perform best with prime or bonded urethane or rub-
D
ber pads that are less than 7⁄16" thick. For berbers or other
stiff-backed carpets, use 3⁄8"-thick bonded urethane foam or
cellular sponge rubber. Foam padding is graded by density:
the denser the foam, the better the pad. Rubber padding is C
graded by weight: the heavier, the better. A B

Carpet Construction
The top surface of a carpet, called the pile,
consists of yarn loops pushed up through a
backing material. The loops are left intact Cushion-
or cut by the manufacturer, depending on backed
the desired effect. Most carpet sold today is
made from synthetic fibers, such as nylon,
polyester, and olefin, although natural wool
carpet is still popular.
A good rule of thumb for judging the qual-
ity of a carpet is to look at the pile density.
A carpet with many pile fibers packed into a
Loop-pile
given area will resist crushing, repel stains
and dirt buildup better, and be more
durable than carpet with low pile density.
Cushion-backed carpet has a foam backing
bonded to it, eliminating the need for addi-
tional padding. Cushion-backed carpet is
easy to install because it requires no stretch-
ing or tackless strips; it is secured to the
floor with general-purpose adhesive, much Velvet
like full-spread sheet vinyl. Cushion-backed cut-pile
carpet usually costs less than conventional
carpet, but it is generally a lower-quality
product.
Loop-pile carpet has a textured look created
by the rounded ends of the uncut yarn
loops pushed up through the backing. The
loops can be arranged randomly, or they
can make a distinct pattern, such as her- Saxony
ringbone. Loop pile is ideal for heavy-traffic cut-pile
areas, since loops are virtually impervious to
crushing.
Velvet cut-pile carpet has the densest pile
of any carpet type. It is cut so that the color
remains uniform when the pile is brushed in
any direction. Velvets are well suited to for-
mal living spaces.
Saxony cut-pile carpet, also known as
plush, is constructed to withstand crushing
and matting better than velvets. The pile is
trimmed at a bevel, giving it a speckled
appearance.
Examine the carpet backing, or “foundation.” A tighter grid pattern in the backing (left) usually indicates dense-pile
carpet that will be more durable and soil-resistant than carpet with looser pile (right).

Floor Finishes
Buying & Estimating Carpet (cont.)
Sketch a scale drawing of the factory carpet roll and another drawing of the room to be the larger piece. Consider the information in the following tips when sketching the layout;
carpeted. Use the drawings to plan the cuts and determine how the carpet pieces will be remember that carpet pieces must be oversized to allow for precise seaming and trimming.
arranged. In most large rooms, the installation will include one large piece of carpet the Your finished drawings will tell you the length of carpet you need to buy.
same width as the factory roll, and several smaller pieces, which are permanently seamed to
Nap slanting
away from eye
Nap slanting
toward eye
Keep pile direction consistent. Carpet pile is usually slanted; Maintain patterns when seaming patterned carpet. Because of this necessity, there is always more waste when installing
this affects how the carpet looks from different angles as light patterned carpet. For a pattern that repeats every 18", for example, each piece must be oversized by 18" to ensure that the
reflects off the surface. Place seamed pieces so the pile faces pattern is aligned. Pattern repeat measurements are noted on carpet samples.
the same direction.

Add an extra 3" for each seamed edge when estimating the Add 6" for each edge along a wall. This surplus will be trim- Plan to cover closet floors with a separate piece of carpet
amount of carpet you’ll need. The extra material helps when med away when the carpet is cut to the exact size of the room. that is seamed to the carpet in the main room area.
cutting straight edges for seaming.
Run
Rise
Add together the rise and run of each step when estimating for stairs. Then, measure the waste. Rather than seaming carpet strips together end to end, plan the installation so the
width of the stairway to determine how many strips you can cut from the factory roll. For a ends of the strips fall in the stair crotches (see page 342). Where practical, however, try to car-
3-ft.-wide stairway, for example, you can cut three strips from a 12-ft.-wide roll, allowing for pet stairs with a single carpet strip.

Floor Finishes
Tools & Materials for Installing Carpet
Installing carpet requires the use of some spe-
B
cialty tools, most notably the knee kicker and
power stretcher. These tools are available at A
most rental centers and carpet stores. C
The knee kicker and power stretcher are
used to stretch a carpet smooth and taut
before securing it to tackless strips installed
around the perimeter of a room.
The power stretcher is the more efficient of
the two tools and should be used to stretch
and secure as much of the carpet as possible.
The knee kicker is used to secure carpet in
tight areas where the power stretcher cannot
reach, such as closets.
A logical stretching sequence is essential to
a good carpet installation. Begin attaching the D
carpet at a doorway or corner, then use the
power stretcher and knee kicker to stretch the
carpet away from attached areas and toward
E
the opposite walls.
Carpeting materials include: hot-glue seam tape (A), used to join carpet pieces together; duct tape (B), for seaming carpet
pads; double-sided tape (C), used to secure a carpet pad to concrete; staples (D), used to fasten padding to underlayment;
and tackless strips (E), for securing the edges of stretched carpet.
G
I
E H
J L
K
F
C D
Carpeting tools include: seam iron (A), power stretcher and extensions (B), chalk line (C), edge trimmer (D), row-running knife (E), utility knife (F), stair tool (G), hammer (H), knee kicker (I),
aviation snips (J), scissors (K), and stapler (L).

Using a Knee Kicker
A B
Shown cutaway for clarity
A knee kicker (and power stretcher) has teeth that grab the carpet foundation for stretching. Place the kicker head a few inches away from the wall to avoid dislodging the tackless strips,
Adjust the depth of the teeth by turning the knob on the knee kicker head. The teeth should then strike the kicker cushion sharply with your knee, stretching the carpet taut. Tack the car-
be set deeply enough to grab the carpet foundation without penetrating to the padding. pet to the pins on the tackless strips to hold it in place.
Using a Power Stretcher

A B
Extension poles Head

Tail
Align the pieces of the power stretcher along the floor, with the tail positioned at a point where the carpet is already secured Adjust the teeth on the head so they grip the carpet (see step
and the head positioned just short of the opposite wall. Fit the ends of the sections together. Telescope one or more of the A, above). Depress the lever on the head to stretch the carpet.
extension poles until the tail rests against the starting wall or block and the head is about 5" from the opposite wall. The stretcher head should move the carpet about 2".

Floor Finishes
Installing Carpet Transitions
Doorways and other transitional areas require
special treatment when you are installing car-
pet. Transition materials and techniques vary,
depending on the level and type of the adjoin-
ing flooring (see photos, right).
For a transition to a floor that is either at
the same height or lower than the bottom of
the carpet, attach a metal carpet bar to the
floor, and secure the carpet inside the bar. This
transition is often used where carpet meets a
vinyl or tile floor. Carpet bars are sold in stan- Metal Carpet bar
dard door-width lengths and in longer strips.
For a transition to a floor that is higher than
the carpet bottom, use tackless strips, as if the
adjoining floor surface were a wall. This tran-
sition is common where carpet meets a
hardwood floor.
For a transition to another carpet of the
same height, join the two carpet sections with
hot-glue seam tape (see pages 338 to 339).
For a transition in a doorway between car-
pets of different heights or textures, install
tackless strips and a hardwood threshold. Tackless strip tuck-under
Thresholds are available predrilled and ready
to install with screws.
Tools: Hacksaw, marker, utility knife,

knee kicker, stair tool, straightedge.
Materials: Transition materials, wood
block.
Hot-glue seam tape
Hardwood threshold

Making Transitions with Metal Carpet Bars
A B C
Measure and cut a carpet bar to fit the space, then nail it in Roll out, cut, and seam the carpet. Fold the carpet back in Use a knee kicker to stretch the carpet snugly into the corner
place. In doorways, the upturned metal flange should lie the transition area, then mark it for trimming—the edge of of the carpet bar. Press the carpet down onto the pins with a
directly below the center of the door when closed. To install a the carpet should fall 1⁄8" to 1⁄4" short of the corner of the car- stair tool. Then, bend the carpet bar flange down over the
carpet bar on concrete, see page 334. pet bar so it can be stretched into the bar. carpet by striking with a hammer and a block of wood.
Making Transitions with Tackless Strips

A B C
Install a tackless strip, leaving a gap equal to two-thirds the Use a straightedge and a utility knife to trim off the excess Tuck the edge of the carpet into the gap between the tackless
thickness of the carpet for trimming. Roll out, cut, and seam carpet. Stretch the carpet toward the strip with a knee kicker, strip and the existing floor, using a stair tool.
the carpet. Mark the edges of the carpet between the strip then press it onto the pins of the strip.
and the adjoining floor surface about 1⁄8" past the point
where it meets the adjacent floor.

Floor Finishes
Installing Padding & Tackless Strips
The easiest way to secure carpeting is to
install tackless strips around the perimeter of
the room. Once the strips are installed, carpet
padding is rolled out as a foundation for the
carpet.
Standard 3⁄4"-wide tackless strips are ade-
quate for securing most carpet. For carpets
laid on concrete, use wider tackless strips that
are attached with masonry nails. Be careful
when handling tackless strips, as the sharp
pins can be dangerous. Where the carpet will
meet a doorway or another type of flooring,
install the appropriate transitions (see pages
332 to 333).
Tools: Aviation snips, utility knife,

stapler.
Materials: Tackless strips, nails, carpet
pad, duct tape.
Install tackless strips next to walls, leaving a gap equal to about 2⁄3 the thickness of the carpet. Make sure the angled pins
on the tackless strips point toward the walls. Cut and install the padding so it fits snugly against the strips. Many carpet pads
have one side that is covered with a smooth coating. For information on selecting carpet padding, see page 326.
Installing Tackless Strips

A B
Starting in a corner, nail tackless strips to the floor, main- Use metal aviation snips to cut the tackless strips to fit Variation: On concrete, use wider tackless strips. Drill pilot
taining a slight gap between the strips and the walls (see around radiators, door moldings, and other obstacles. holes through the strips and into the floor, using a masonry
photo, top of page). Use a scrap of plywood or cardboard as bit, then fasten the strips by driving 11⁄2" fluted masonry nails.
a spacing aid.

Installing Carpet Padding
A B
Roll out enough padding to cover the entire floor. Make sure the seams between the strips are Use a utility knife to cut away any excess padding along the edges. The padding should
tight. If one face of the padding has a slicker surface, make sure the slick face is up. This touch, but not overlap, the tackless strips.
makes it easier to slide the carpet over the pad during installation.
Tape the seams together with duct tape, then staple the padding to the floor every 12". Variation: To fasten carpet padding to a concrete floor, apply double-sided tape next to the
tackless strips, along the seams, and in an “X” pattern across the floor.

Floor Finishes
Cutting & Seaming Carpet
A B C
Position the carpet roll against one wall, with its loose end At the opposite wall, mark the back of the carpet at each Snap a chalk line across the back of the carpet between the
extending up the wall by about 6", then roll out the carpet edge, about 6" beyond the point where the carpet touches marks. Place a piece of scrap plywood under the cutting area
until it reaches the opposite wall. the wall. Pull the carpet back away from the wall, so the to protect the carpet and padding from the knife. Cut along
marks are visible. the line, using a straightedge and utility knife.
VA R I AT I O N : When cutting loop-pile carpet, avoid severing the loops by cutting from the top side, using a row-running knife (see page 330). First fold the carpet back along the cut line
to part the pile (left) and make a crease along the part line. Then, lay the carpet flat and cut along the part in the pile (right). Cut slowly to ensure a smooth, straight cut.

D E
Next to walls, straddle the edge of the carpet and nudge it with your foot until it extends up Using your seaming plan (see pages 328 to 329) as a guide, measure and cut fill-in pieces of
the wall by about 6" and is parallel to the wall. At the corners, relieve buckling by slitting the carpet to complete the installation. Be sure to include a 6" surplus at each wall and a 3" sur-
carpet with a utility knife, allowing the carpet to lie somewhat flat (inset). Be careful to make plus on each edge that will be seamed to another piece of carpet. Set the cut pieces in place,
the corner cuts only a few inches long to prevent cutting into usable carpet. making sure the pile faces in the same direction on all pieces.
F G
Roll back the large piece of carpet on the side to be seamed, then use a chalk line to snap a Place scrap wood under the cutting area to protect the carpet while cutting. Using a straight-
straight seam edge, about 2" in from the factory edge. Keep the ends of the line about 11⁄2 ft. edge and utility knife, carefully cut the carpet along the chalk line. To extend the cutting lines
in from the ends of the carpet, where the overlap at the walls causes the carpet to buckle. to the edges of the carpet, pull the corners back at an angle so they lie flat, then cut with the
straightedge and utility knife.

Floor Finishes
Cutting & Seaming Carpet (cont.)
H I
On the smaller carpet pieces, cut straight seam edges where VA R I AT I O N : Apply a continuous bead of seam glue along Plug in the seam iron and set it aside to heat up, then mea-
the small pieces will be joined to one another. Do not cut the the cut edges of the backing at seams to ensure that the car- sure and cut hot-glue seam tape for all seams. Begin by
edges that will be seamed to the large carpet piece until after pet will not fray. joining the small fill-in pieces to form one large piece. Center
the small pieces are joined together. the tape under a seam, with the adhesive side facing up.
J K
Set the iron under the carpet at one end of the tape until the Press the edges of the carpet together into the melted adhe- Variation: To close any gaps in loop-pile carpet seams, use a
adhesive liquifies—usually about 30 seconds. Working in 12" sive behind the iron. Separate the pile with your fingers to knee kicker, and gently push the seam edges together while
sections, slowly move the iron along the tape, letting the car- make sure no fibers are stuck in the glue and that the seam the adhesive is still hot.
pet fall onto the hot adhesive behind it. Set weights at the is tight, then place a weighted board over the seam to keep
end of the seam to hold the pieces in place. it flat while the glue sets.

L M
Continue seaming the fill-in pieces together. When the tape adhesive has dried, turn the seamed piece over, and cut a fresh Use hot-glue seam tape to join the seamed pieces to the large
seam edge as done in steps F and G (see page 337). Reheat and remove about 11⁄2" of tape from the end of each seam to keep piece of carpet, repeating steps I through K.
it from overlapping the tape on the large piece.
If you’re laying carpet in a closet, cut a fill-in piece, and join Tip: At radiators, pipes, and other obstructions, cut slits in Tip: To fit carpet around partition walls where the edges of
it to the main carpet with hot-glue seam tape, using the the carpet. First, cut long slits from the edge of the carpet to the wall or door jamb meet the floor, make diagonal cuts
same technique. the obstruction, then cut short cross-slits where the carpet from the edge of the carpet at the center of the wall to the
will fit around the obstruction. points where the edges of the wall meet the floor.

Floor Finishes
Stretching & Securing Carpet
A B
Before you start to stretch the seamed carpet, read through this entire section and create a If the doorway is close to a corner, use the knee kicker to secure the carpet to the tackless strips
stretching sequence similar to the one shown here. Start the process by fastening the carpet between the door and the corner. Also secure a few feet of carpet along the adjacent wall,
at a doorway threshold, using carpet transitions (see pages 332 to 333). again working toward the corner.
A
C D
2×4
Tail
Use a power stretcher to stretch the carpet toward the wall opposite the door, bracing the tail with a length of 2 × 4 placed With the power stretcher still extended from the doorway to
across the doorway. Secure the carpet onto the tackless strips with a stair tool or the head of a hammer (inset). Leaving the the opposite side of the room, knee-kick the carpet onto the
tail in place and moving only the stretcher head, continue stretching and securing carpet along the wall, working toward the tackless strips along the closest wall, starting near the corner
nearest corner in 12" to 24" increments. closest to the stretcher tail. Disengage and move the stretcher
only if it’s in the way.

E F
Reposition the stretcher so its tail is against the center of the Use the knee kicker to stretch and secure the carpet inside the closet (if any). Stretch and fasten the carpet against the back
wall you just secured (step D). Stretch and secure the carpet wall first, then do the side walls. After the carpet in the closet is stretched and secured, use the knee kicker to secure the car-
along the opposite wall, working from the center toward a pet along the walls next to the closet. Disengage the power stretcher only if it’s in the way.
corner. NOTE: If there is a closet in an adjacent wall, work
toward that wall, not the closet.
G H
Return the head of the power stretcher to the center of the Reposition the stretcher to secure the carpet along the last Tip: Locate any floor vents under the stretched carpet, then
wall, then finish securing carpet along this wall, working wall of the room, working from the center toward the corners. use a utility knife to cut away the carpet, starting at the cen-
toward the other corner of the room. The tail block should be braced against the opposite wall. ter. It is important that this be done after the stretching is
completed. Continued on next page

Floor Finishes
Stretching & Securing Carpet (cont.)
I J
Use a carpet edge trimmer to trim surplus carpet away from the walls. At corners, use a util- Tuck the trimmed edges of the carpet neatly into the gaps between the tackless strips and the
ity knife to finish the cuts. walls, using a stair tool and hammer.
Carpeting Stairs
Where practical, try to carpet stairs with a
single strip of carpet. If you must use two or
more pieces, plan the layout so the pieces meet
where a riser meets a tread. Do not seam
together carpet pieces in the middle of a tread
or riser.
The project shown here involves a staircase Stair riser
that is enclosed on both sides. For open stair-
cases, turn down the edges of the carpet and
secure them with carpet tacks.
Measure the carpet to fit your stairway (see
page 329), then cut the carpet to the correct
dimensions (see page 336).
Tackless
strips
Tools: Straightedge, utility knife, avia-

tion snips, stapler, stair tool, knee kicker.
Materials: Carpet, carpet padding, Stair tread
tackless strips, nails.
On stairways, tackless strips are attached to the treads and risers. Where two or more pieces of carpet are needed, the pieces
should meet at the “crotch” of the step (where the riser and tread meet).

A B C
Fasten tackless strips to the risers and treads. On the risers, For each step, cut a piece of carpet padding the width of the Position the carpet on the stairs with the pile direction point-
place the strips about 1" above the treads; on the treads, step and long enough to cover the tread and a few inches of ing down. Secure the bottom edge, using a stair tool to tuck
place the strips about 3⁄4" from the risers. Make sure the pins the riser below it. Staple the padding in place. the end of the carpet between the tackless strip and the floor.
point toward the crotch of the step. On the bottom riser, leave
a gap equal to two-thirds the carpet thickness.
D E F
Use a knee kicker and stair tool to stretch the carpet onto the Use a hammer and the stair tool to wedge the carpet firmly Where two carpet pieces meet, secure the edge of the upper
tackless strip on the first tread. Start in the center of the step, into the back corner of the step. Repeat this process for piece first, then stretch and secure the lower piece.
then alternate kicks on either side until the carpet is com- each step.
pletely secured on the step.

C O N V E R T I N G
B ASEM ENTS & ATTICS

Planning the Project. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
Evaluating Your Basement. . . . . . . . 346
Evaluating Your Attic . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
Stairways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Dealing with Basement Moisture . . 351
Planning the Framing. . . . . . . . . . . . 354
Adding or Enlarging
Basement Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356
Planning the Systems. . . . . . . . . . . . 357
Designing a Guest Suite. . . . . . . . . . 360
Preparing Basement Floors . . . . . . . . . 362
Building Attic Floors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
Covering Foundation Walls . . . . . . . . . 370
Framing Soffits & Chases . . . . . . . . . . . 375
Building Attic Kneewalls . . . . . . . . . . . 378
Framing an Attic Ceiling . . . . . . . . . . . . 380
Insulating & Ventilating Roofs . . . . . . . 382
Installing a Gas Fireplace. . . . . . . . . . . 384
Building a Wet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
Adding Recessed Kneewall Shelves. . . 398
Building Custom Light Boxes . . . . . . . . 402
Converting Basements & Attics
Planning the Project

Although many attics and basements are good code. This describes all the requirements for remodeling project. Much of this you can do
candidates for finishing, not all are suitable. livable spaces in your area, and it will govern yourself, while other matters may require pro-
Some spaces are simply too small or have very every aspect of your project. There are code fessional help. If your attic or basement passes
low ceilings or problems like flooding that specifications for everything from minimum your evaluation, hire an architect, engineer, or
make the investment too risky. Other spaces headroom to how many electrical receptacles building contractor to have a look at the space
may require expensive preparation before they you’ll need. You can probably find a copy of and the elements that will be affected by the
can be finished. So before you make any seri- the building code at a local library, but for the project.
ous plans, it’s a good idea to evaluate the space most part, it’s best to learn about the require- You can use your home’s original blueprints
to find out what you have to work with and ments from the officials at the building to learn about the basic structure of your
what changes are necessary. department. house and locate mechanical rough-ins. If you
The primary gauge by which to measure This section will help you evaluate your don’t have blueprints, contact your home’s
your attic or basement is the local building basement or attic and begin planning the builder or the city office to get a copy of them.
Evaluating Your Basement

Two things that put an end to the most base-
ment finishing plans: inadequate headroom
and moisture. Begin your evaluation by mea-
suring from the basement floor to the bottom
of the floor joists above. Most building codes
require habitable rooms to have a finished
ceiling height of 71⁄2 ft., measured from the
finished floor to the lowest part of the fin-
ished ceiling. However, obstructions, such as
beams, soffits, and pipes, (spaced at least 4 ft.
on center) usually can hang down 6" below
Obstructions
that height. Hallways and bathrooms typically
spaced 4 ft. apart: need at least 7-ft. ceilings.
7 ft. While it’s impractical to add headroom in
Hallways &
Bathrooms: 7 ft.
a basement, there are some ways of working
Habitable around the requirements. Ducts and pipes
Rooms: often can be moved, and beams and other
71⁄2 ft. obstructions can be incorporated into walls
or hidden in closets or other uninhabitable
spaces. Also, some codes permit lower ceiling
heights in rooms with specific purposes, such
as recreation rooms. If headroom is a problem,
talk to the local building department before
you dash your dreams.
If your basement passes the headroom test,
you can move on to the next issue: moisture.
For a full discussion on this critical matter,
see Dealing with Basement Moisture, on pages
351 to 353. Be aware that moisture problems
Basement headroom is often limited by beams, ducts, pipes, and other elements. Typical minimums for ceiling height are shown must be corrected before you start the finish-
here: 71⁄2 ft. for habitable rooms; 7 ft. for bathrooms and hallways; 7 ft. for obstructions spaced no less than 4 ft. apart. ing process.
346 Converting Basements & Attics/ Planning

Rerouting service lines and mechanicals adds quickly to the Weakened or undersized joists and other framing members Minor cracks such as these in masonry walls and floors usu-
expense of a project, so consider your options carefully. must be reinforced or replaced. ally can be sealed and forgotten, while severe cracking may
indicate serious structural problems.
A well-built basement provides plenty of you have to reroute pipes and ducts to increase ing pipes. In most cases, this insulation can be
structural support for finished space, but headroom? Electricians and HVAC contrac- left alone if it’s in good condition and is pro-
before you cover up the walls, floor, and ceil- tors can help you assess your systems and tected from damage. If you fear the insulation
ing, check for potential problems. Inspect the suggest modifications. in your basement poses a hazard, contact an
masonry carefully. Large cracks may indicate Aside from being dark and scary places, asbestos abatement contractor to have it eval-
shifting of the soil around the foundation; unfinished basements often harbor toxic ele- uated or safely removed.
severely bowed or out-of-plumb walls may be ments. One of the most common is radon, a Check the local codes regarding exits from
structurally unsound. Small cracks usually naturally occurring radioactive gas that is finished basements—most codes require two.
cause moisture problems rather than structural odorless and colorless. It’s believed that pro- The stairway commonly serves as one exit,
woes, but they should be sealed to prevent fur- longed exposure to high levels of radon can while the other exit can be a door to the out-
ther cracking. Contact an engineer or cause lung cancer. The Environmental side, an egress window (see page 15), or a
foundation contractor for help with founda- Protection Agency (see page 599) has free code-compliant bulkhead (an exterior stairway
tion problems. If you have an older home, you publications to help you test for radon and with cellar doors). Each bedroom will also
may find sagging floor joists overhead or rot- take steps to reduce the levels in your house. need an egress window or door for escape.
ted wood posts or beams; any defective wood For starters, you can perform a “short-term” Stairways must also meet local code specifi-
framing will have to be reinforced or replaced. test using a kit from a hardware store or home cations. If yours doesn’t, you’ll probably have
Your basement’s mechanicals are another center. Look for the phrase “Meets EPA to hire someone to rebuild it. See page 350 for
important consideration. The locations of requirements” to ensure the test kit is accurate. an overview of typical staircase requirements.
water heaters, pipes, wiring, circuit boxes, fur- Keep in mind that short-term tests are not as Finally, if you’re planning to finish the base-
naces, and ductwork can have a significant conclusive as professional, long-term tests. If ment in a new house, ask the builder how
impact on the cost and difficulty of your pro- your test reveals high levels of radon, contact a long you should wait before starting the pro-
ject. Can you plan around components, or will radon specialist. ject. Poured concrete walls and floors need
they have to be moved? Is there enough head- Another basement hazard is insulation con- time to dry out before they can be covered.
room to install a suspended ceiling so taining asbestos, which was commonly used in Depending on where you live, you may be
mechanicals can remain accessible? Or, will older homes for insulating ductwork and heat- advised to wait up to two years, just to be safe.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Planning 347

Evaluating Your Attic
Rafters
Webs
Floor joists Chords
Rafter framing creates open space because the rafters carry most of the roof’s weight. Trusses are made of interconnected chords and webs, which close off most of the attic space.
Start your attic evaluation with a quick framing inspection. If the roof finished space—after the flooring and ceiling surfaces are installed.
is framed with rafters, you can continue to the next test. If it’s built Other things can affect headroom, as well, such as reinforcing the floor
with trusses, however, consider other ways to add space to your home. frame, and increasing rafter depth for strength or insulation.
Internal supports in trusses leave too little space to work with, and You may also find that various supports in your attic strengthen your
trusses cannot be altered. roof but limit your space. Collar ties (see page 349) are horizontal
The next step is to check for headroom and overall floor space. Most boards that join two rafters together in the upper third of the rafter
building codes call for 71⁄2 ft. of headroom over 50% of the “usable” span. They prevent rafter uplift in high winds. Collar ties often can be
floor space. Usable floor space is defined as any space with a ceiling moved up a few inches but cannot be removed. Rafter ties join rafters
height of at least 5 ft. Remember that these minimums apply to the in the lower third of their span to prevent spreading. In most attics, the
ceiling or floor joists serve as rafter ties. Purlins are horizontal boards
that run at right angles to the rafters and are supported by struts. These
systems shorten the rafter span, allowing the use of smaller lumber for
New Dormer the rafters. You may be allowed to substitute kneewalls for purlins and
struts. If you think you need to have any support system altered or
moved, consult an architect or engineer.
The rafters themselves also need careful examination. Inspect them
for signs of stress or damage, such as cracks, sagging, and insect infesta-
tion. Look for dark areas indicating roof leaks. If you find leaks or you
7 ⁄ ft.
1
2 know your roofing is past its useful life, have it repaired or replaced
5 ft. before you start the finishing process. And even if the rafters appear
healthy, they may be too small to support the added weight of finish
Habitable rooms must be at least 70 sq. ft. total and measure at least 7
ft. in any one direction. To meet headroom requirements, 50% of the usable
floor space must have a ceiling height of 71⁄2 ft. You can increase your floor
space and headroom by adding protruding windows called dormers. In
addition to space, dormers add light and ventilation to your attic.

Gable vent
Collar tie
Rafter
Purlin
Gable
wall
Strut
Floor joists
(Rafter ties)
Interior load- Exterior load-

bearing wall bearing wall
materials. Small rafters can also be a problem if they don’t provide enough requirements you should keep in mind as you inspect your attic. If you plan
room for adequate insulation. to add a bedroom, it will need at least one exit to the outside. This can be a
At this point, it’s a good idea to have a professional check the structure door leading to an outside stairwell or an egress window (see page 15).
of your attic, including the rafters and everything from the floor down. In Most codes also have minimum requirements for ventilation and natural
some cases, finishing an attic is like adding a story to your home, which light, which means you may have to add windows or skylights.
means that the structure must have adequate support for the new space. One of the largest expenses of finishing an attic is in providing access:
Attic floors are often built as ceiling frames for the level below and are not You’ll need a permanent stairway at least 36" wide, with room for a 36"
intended to support living space. Floors can be strengthened with addi- landing at the top and bottom. This is an important planning issue because
tional joists, known as sister joists, or with new joists installed between the adding a stairway affects the layout and traffic patterns of the attic, as well
existing ones. the rooms on the floor below. See page 350 for more information on stair-
Support for the attic floor is provided by the load-bearing walls below way requirements.
and, ultimately, by the foundation. If these elements can’t support the fin- Finally, take an inventory of existing mechanicals in your attic. While
ished attic, they’ll need to be reinforced. This may be as simple as plumbing and wiring runs can be moved relatively easily, other features,
strengthening the walls with plywood panels or as complicated as adding such as chimneys, must be incorporated into your plans. This is a good
support posts and beams or reinforcing the foundation. time to have your chimney inspected by a fire official and to obtain the
In addition to these structural matters, there are a few general code building code specifications for framing around chimneys.

Stairways
A finished attic or basement requires safe access, and while you may beyond the top riser and 12" plus the width of one tread beyond the
have an existing stairway that’s seen plenty of use, it may not meet bottom riser. If you have enough space, you can also plan the stairway
building code requirements for finished spaces. If there is no stairway, with deeper treads and shorter risers, making the stairs easier to use for
you’ll need to plan carefully to find the best location for a new one. those with physical challenges.
According to most building codes, stairways must be at least 36" When evaluating your stairway, take into account your finishing
wide, with a minimum of 6 ft., 8" of headroom. Each step may have a plans. Steps must be as uniform as possible, with no more than a 3⁄8"
maximum riser height of 73⁄4" and a minimum tread depth of 10". The variance in riser height. Thick tile or a basement subfloor that runs up
top and bottom of the stairs must have a landing at least 36" deep. All to the first step will shorten the height of the first riser, creating an
stairways must be illuminated, preferably by a light fixture controlled unsafe situation that doesn’t meet code. You can adjust a new staircase
by three-way switches. to compensate for this, but an existing one doesn’t offer such flexibility.
The handrail is another important element. All stairways with two or When planning a new staircase, consider how it will affect the sur-
more steps must have at least one handrail mounted 34" to 38" above rounding spaces, as well as the traffic patterns on both floors. The type
the treads. The railing itself should have a diameter between 11⁄2" and of staircase you choose and where you put it will largely be determined
2" and must be mounted at least 11⁄2" from the wall. Handrail ends by the available floor space. A standard straight-run stairway will
must terminate into the wall or have a turnout or easing at the bottom occupy almost 50 sq. ft. of floor space on the lower level and 35 to 40
end of the stairs. As a minimum, handrails must extend from a point sq. ft. on the upper level. L- and U-shape stairways make 90° and 180°
directly above the bottom riser to a point directly above the top riser. turns, respectively, allowing them to fit into smaller areas. Winders are
For increased accessibility, include two handrails—one on each L-shape stairs that make the turn with wedge-shape steps rather than a
side—and extend them to include horizontal sections at both ends: 12" square platform. These allow a steeper rise in a confined area.
Landing:
36" (min.)
Handrail:
34–38"
Headroom: Tread
6 ft., 8" depth:
10" (min.) Total rise:
Handrail extension: Stud wall approx. 109"
12" + one tread width
(optional)
Riser height:
71⁄4" (73⁄4" max)
Landing:
36" (min.) Total run: approx. 140"

Dealing with Basement Moisture
Basement moisture can destroy your efforts to create functional living
space. Over time, even small amounts of moisture can rot framing, turn
wallboard to mush, and promote the growth of mold and mildew.
Fortunately, most moisture problems can be resolved, but any measures
you take must prove effective before you proceed with your project.
Ensuring your basement will stay dry throughout the seasons may
require waiting a year or more after the home is constructed, but con-
sidering the time and money involved, it will be worth the delay.
Basement moisture appears in two forms: condensation and seepage. Cracks in
walls
Condensation comes from airborne water vapor that turns to water
when it contacts cold surfaces. Common sources of vapor include
humid outdoor air, poorly ventilated appliances, damp walls, and traces
of water released from concrete. Seepage is water that enters the base-
ment by infiltrating cracks in the foundation or by leeching through Poorly
the masonry. Typically caused by ineffective exterior drainage, seepage designed
window well
comes from rain or groundwater collected around the foundation or
from a rising water table.
If you’ve had a wet basement in the past, you may know when to
expect moisture but not where it’s coming from. Even if your basement
has been dry for a long time, look for evidence of moisture problems.
Typical signs include peeling paint, white residue on masonry, mildew Improper
stains, sweaty windows and pipes, rusted appliance feet, rotted wood grading
near the floor, buckled floor tile, and the odor of mildew.
Once you determine that a moisture problem exists, locate the
source. The first step is to test for condensation and seepage: Lay a
square of plastic or aluminum foil on the floor and another on an exte-
rior foundation wall. Tape down all four sides of each. Check the
squares after two days. If moisture has formed on top of a square, you
Cracks in
probably have a condensation problem; moisture on the underside indi- slab
cates seepage.
To reduce condensation, run a dehumidifier in the dampest area of
the basement. Insulate cold-water pipes to prevent condensate drip-
page, and make sure your dryer and other appliances are vented to the Leaky
joints
outside. Central A/C service in the basement can help reduce vapor
during warm, humid months.
Crawlspaces also can promote condensation, as warm, moist air
enters through crawlspace vents and meets the cooler interior air. Footing
Crawlspace ventilation is a source of ongoing debate, and there’s no
universal method that applies to all climates. It’s best to ask the local
building department or an experienced local contractor for advice on
this matter.
Solutions for preventing seepage range from simple do-it-yourself
projects to expensive professional jobs requiring excavation and founda- Common causes of basement moisture include improper grading around the foundation,
tion work. Since it’s often difficult to determine the source of seeping inadequate or faulty gutter systems, humidity and condensation, cracks in foundation walls,
water, try some common cures before calling in professional help. leaky joints between structural elements, and poorly designed window wells. More extensive
Begin by checking your yard’s grade. The first 6 ft. of ground around problems include large cracks in the foundation, damaged or missing drain tiles, a high water
the foundation should slope away at a rate of 1" per foot and at least table, or the presence of underground streams. Often, a combination of factors is at fault.

Dealing with Basement Moisture (cont.)
⁄4" per foot beyond that. Use a level, a long board, and a tape measure
3
Window wells allow water into a basement, and covering them with
to check the grade. If the slope is inadequate, build up the ground removable plastic covers is the easiest way to keep them dry. If you pre-
around the foundation to improve drainage. fer to leave wells uncovered, add a gravel layer and a drain to the
Next, inspect your downspouts and gutters. Give the bottom of the well. Clean the well regularly to remove moisture-heavy
gutters a thorough cleaning, and patch any holes. debris. See page 356 for more information on window wells.
Make sure the gutters slope toward the down- To help stop seepage from inside the basement, patch cracks in the
spouts at about 1⁄16" per foot. And most foundation walls and floors. Use waterproof masonry sealant for
important, add downspout exten- cracks under 1⁄4" wide, and use hydraulic cement for larger cracks.
sions and splashblocks to keep Whole-wall interior coatings, such as masonry waterproofer, may
roof runoff at least 8 ft. also help reduce basement moisture. However, be aware that while
away from the foun- sealing the foundation from the inside can help block occasional
dation. light moisture, it will not solve serious moisture problems, regardless
of the manufacturer’s claims.
If these simple measures don’t correct your basement’s moisture
problems, consider more extensive action. Serious water problems are
Gutter: slope toward

downspout 1⁄16" per ft.
Downspout
Test for condensation and seepage (above) by taping a square of aluminum foil to the
floor and a wall. Moisture on top of the foil indicates condensation; moisture underneath
reveals seepage.
Improve your gutter system and foundation grade (left) to prevent rainwater and snow-melt
from flooding your basement. Keep gutters clean and in good condition. Make sure there’s a
downspout for every 50 ft. of roof eave, and extend downspout piping 8 ft. from the founda-
Grade: tion. Build up the grade around the foundation so it carries water away from the house.
6 ft. from foundation
slope down 1" per ft.
Downspout
extension
Splashblock

typically handled by footing drains or sump systems. Footing drains, Thus, a footing drain is typically considered a last-resort measure.
which are installed around the foundation’s perimeter near the footing, Before you hire someone to install a drainage system, do some home-
drain out to a distant area of the yard. They usually work in conjunc- work. Learn about the procedure the contractor has planned, and find
tion with waterproof coatings on the foundation walls. Sump systems out if it has been successful with other homes in your area. Check the
use an interior under-slab drain pipe to collect water in a pit. From contractor’s references, and don’t be afraid to get a second or third
there, the water is sent outside by an electric sump pump. In cases opinion before making a commitment.
where a basement is affected only by excess surface water,
a landscape drain may solve the problem.
Find out if your house has one of these sys-
tems in place. It may be that your footing
drain pipes are clogged with silt or have been
damaged by tree roots. If you have a sump pit
in your basement floor but no pump or dis-
charge pipe in place, you may need to install a
pump and drain lines. (Be aware that there
may be regulations about where the sump
pump can drain.)
Installing a new drainage system is expen-
sive and must be done properly. Adding a
sump system involves breaking up the con-
crete floor along the basement’s perimeter, Drain
hose
digging a trench, and laying a perforated drain
pipe in a bed of gravel. After the sump pit is
installed, the floor is patched with new con- Discharge
crete. Installing a footing drain is far more pipe
complicated. This involves digging out the
foundation, installing gravel and drain pipe,
and waterproofing the foundation walls.
Landscape
drain Sump pit
Basement
slab
Sump pump
Footing
drain
Footing
Gravel
Fill cracks in the foundation with masonry waterproofer or Foundation drainage systems are designed to remove water that pools around footings. Footing drains collect water from
hydraulic cement. This can help reduce minor seepage and outside the footing and carry it out to daylight. Sump systems collect water underneath the basement floor and divert it
prevent further cracking. into a pit. As the pit fills, a sump pump sends the water outside. Landscape drains remove water near the surface.

Planning the Framing
To determine where your new walls should go, This is especially important in basements,
start with an investigation of the unfinished where adding or enlarging a window can be a
space. All obstacles, such as mechanical equip- major project (see page 356).
ment and service lines, support columns, The next step is to draw floor plans (see
chimneys, and roof framing, must be consid- pages 18 to 19). Simply measure your base-
ered. Think about which of these elements ment or attic floor space, then scale down the
can be enclosed by walls, which can be hidden dimensions and transfer them to graph paper.
within a wall or concealed by a soffit or chase, Add all obstacles, windows, doors, and other
and which, if any, can be moved. permanent fixtures. When everything is in
One technique to help you get started is to place, start experimenting with different lay-
draw full-scale “walls” onto your basement outs. If you have your home’s original
floor, using children’s sidewalk chalk (on wood blueprints, trace the floor plans onto tracing
attic floors, use wide masking tape instead of paper and work on new layouts from there.
chalk). This helps you visualize the planned Creating a successful layout takes time and
spaces and gives you a better sense of room often requires creative problem-solving. To
sizes. Complete the layout in chalk, then walk help generate ideas for your remodel, study
through the rooms to test traffic patterns. the before-and-after drawings on page 355.
As you plan your rooms, keep in mind that While these floor plans may not look like your
most building codes require habitable rooms basement, they include many of the common
to have at least 70 sq. ft. of floor space and elements and obstacles involved in a finishing
Furnace width
measure a minimum of 7 ft. in any +12", direction.
min. project. They also show how carefully placed
See page 15 for more code minimums regard- walls can transform an unfinished space into Draw layouts onto your basement floor with sidewalk chalk.
ing room sizes. And don’t forget to include several livable areas that still leave room for Use different colors to represent elements such as doors, win-
any new or enlarged windows in your plans. storage and mechanical elements. dows, and ceiling soffits.
Enclosing Mechanicals Furnace width

+ 12", min.
Gas-burning appliances—like furnaces, hot-water heaters, and
boilers, require air for combustion and space for servicing. When
planning walls that enclose mechanicals, follow local building 1"-3"
clearance Water
codes and manufacturer’s recommendations for each appliance. (typical) heater
Standard minimum clearances are shown here. A furnace must
have a minimum of 3" at the sides and back of the unit with a Furnace
total clear space that is at least 12" wider than the unit width. The 30"-deep
front of the unit (where the combustion chamber is located) must work 3" min.
Air space
be 6" from any obstruction, such as a closed door. There also must intake
be a 30"-deep work space directly in front of the unit. Door open- vent
ings for mechanical rooms must be at least 24" wide. 6" min.
Water heaters typically need 1" to 3" of clearance along the sides
and back, and a 30"-deep work space in front. 24" min.
Depending on the room size and the appliances contained within, 30"-deep
Hallway work
air vents may be required to ensure safe combustion and ventila-
tion. Combustion air is often provided by louvered doors, wall space
vents, or ducts that draw outdoor air: Consult the local building
codes and appliance manufacturers for recommendations.

Basement Layouts:
Before and After
Utility window
Columns
Before: This standard basement had three
utility windows along the end walls and
structural columns running parallel to the
long side wall. A furnace and water heater
Water heater
broke up the central space, and there was a
sump pit in one corner. The goal for this Furnace
space was to create a large family room, a
home office, a bathroom, a pool room, and
a storage area. Stairway
Sump pit
Egress Home office

window
Bathroom Family room

Built-in
cabinet
Mechanical
room
Pool room
Wet bar
Storage room
the family room. One of the columns was hidden within the office wall, and the remaining
three were wrapped with wood trim.
The mechanical room contains the furnace and water heater, with plenty of space for ser-
vicing the units. Next to the office is a full bathroom, designed with a square layout that
leaves a comfortable amount of space between the fixtures. The pool room occupies a well-
After: A few walls at one end of the basement define several of the new rooms. To add light defined space, where games won’t disrupt activity in the family room. A wet bar can easily
to the home office, the existing window opening was expanded, and an egress window was be accessed from both the pool room and family room. The stairway needed only a new
installed, which allows the room to be used as a bedroom, as well. A larger window and well handrail to become code-compliant. At the bottom of the stairs, a built-in cabinet provides
were also installed at the other end of the basement to provide light and a better view from storage and adds a decorative touch to the basement entrance.

Adding or Enlarging Basement Windows
Whether the goal is to add natural light or foundation wall. Any egress well more than
provide emergency egress, adding or enlarging 44" deep must have a permanently attached
windows is a common project for basement ladder or a step system that doesn’t interfere
remodels. However, considering the structural with the window’s operation.
aspects involved (not to mention labor), it’s Drainage for window wells is another
not always a do-it-yourself job. important issue, particularly if they are uncov-
Cutting into a foundation or load-bearing ered. All wells should have a layer of gravel
stud wall in walkout basements requires that is at least 6" deep and stops 3" below the
adding a new header or steel lintel above the window frame. Uncovered wells may need a
opening to carry the house’s weight. In stan- drain pipe or a continuous layer of gravel that
dard basements, adding or enlarging a window leads to footing drain or other perimeter drain
also requires digging and installing a window system. Covering wells with clear, plastic cov-
well. All of this work must be approved by a ers keeps out the weather and prevents children
building inspector to ensure that the strength or animals from falling into the well. Covers Egress windows in basements require large wells that meet
of the wall isn’t compromised. on egress window wells must be hinged or code specifications. The prefabricated window well shown here
Creating a new opening in a wood-frame easily removable from inside the well. has a stepped side that serves as stairs for emergency escape.
basement wall is similar to framing for any
other load-bearing wall. With poured concrete
or block foundations, the wall opening must
be cut and broken out. The inside edges of
masonry are then wrapped with pressure- 4" above
grade
treated lumber to provide a rough frame for
the new window.
Window wells require important considera-
tion. Some must be designed to allow easy
emergency escape, while all wells should let in
plenty of light to make the most of the new
windows. As general minimums, a window
well should be about 6" wider than the win-
dow opening and should extend at least 18"
from the foundation wall. And all wells should
extend 8" below the window sill and 4" above Gravel
grade.
The minimum dimensions for an egress 8" below
window well are determined by your local window
building code. Typically, wells for egress win-
dows must be at least 9 sq. ft. overall, measure
at least 36" in width, and extend 36" from the
Window wells should extend 8" below the window frame

Footing
and 4" above the ground. Wells for egress windows must be
drain Footing
at least 36" wide and project 36" from the foundation, and
those deeper than 44" must have a ladder or other means of
escape. To keep water from pooling near the window, well
Show n
bases should have a 6" layer of gravel. More drainage can be Cutaway
provided by gravel that passes water down to a footing drain
or by a well drain leading to daylight.

Planning the Systems
Adding the plumbing, wiring, and HVAC wired vent fan in a bathroom), minimum can be tricky, and you may find it’s easier to
(heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) ele- room dimensions, and required clearances change the room plans than to move the
ments is one of the more challenging aspects around fixtures. needed systems lines.
of a basement or attic conversion. If your cur- When you have a general systems plan for Routing the lines themselves often requires
rent systems can accommodate the added all of the new rooms, hire the appropriate creative solutions. Think about the major
loads, you can expand them by adding new contractors to assess the plans based on the issues first—ducts and drain pipes are more
lines to provide service to the space, but mak- existing systems in your house. They will difficult to route than supply pipes and wiring.
ing the connections and finding room for check the capacity of each system to deter- You can run many of the lines through and
everything can be difficult. mine if it can handle the additional load. For between the framing members of floors, ceil-
To find out what’s needed for the converted example, if your electrical service panel is ings, and walls. Be sure to follow code
space, start by planning the fixtures and out- nearly full, you may need to install a new sub- restrictions for notching and boring joists and
lets for each proposed room and making panel to supply electricity to the new rooms. studs, to maintain their structural integrity.
rough plans of the overall room layout. Then The contractors should also help you with When lines can’t be hidden within framing,
consult the local building codes to determine the next step: figuring out how to route all the try to group them together so they can be
what systems are required (such as a hard- pipes, wires, ducts, etc. to the new rooms. This enclosed in a soffit or vertical chase.
Wiring
To avoid long wiring runs or crowding the main service panel, consider ditioners and baseboard heaters require 240-volt circuits. For an electric
installing a circuit breaker subpanel in or near the finished space. radiant heating system, check the manufacturer’s requirements.
Powered by a single cable leading from the main panel, a subpanel is Structured Media Systems: A remodeling project is a good opportu-
like a satellite service panel, allowing you to run new circuits from a nity to prepare your house for the future. As with conventional wiring,
convenient location. it’s easier and cheaper to install specialty cables for telephones, comput-
The following are some of the basic electrical elements to consider ers, and entertainment systems while you’re building new walls and
when creating your wiring plan. (For more information on planning floors. And the minor expense you incur now will be more
and installing wiring, see pages 100 to 145.) than offset by the convenience of having the wiring in
Receptacles: The National Electrical Code requires place if you need it in the future.
that receptacles be spaced no more than 12 ft. apart,
but for convenience you can space them as close as 6
ft. You may also need some nonstandard receptacles,
such as a GFCI for bathrooms and wet areas and a
20-amp or 240-volt receptacle for large appliances.
Lighting: Lighting is an important consideration
for every room, particularly those with limited sources
of ambient light. Most codes require that each room
have at least one switch-controlled light fixture, and a
switch near the entrance. Stairways must have a fix-
ture that illuminates each step and is controlled by
three-way switches at the top and bottom landings.
Hallways and closets also need switch-controlled General
lights. Your general lighting plan should provide ver- lighting/receptacle
circuit
satility for everyday tasks as well as visual warmth.
This is especially true in basements, which generally Dedicated
240-volt
need more artificial light than upper floors. Subpanel circuit
HVAC: Your new space probably will need addi-
tional wiring to supply auxiliary HVAC equipment. A Main
typical bathroom vent fan or a ceiling fan runs on a service
panel
standard 120-volt circuit, while most window air con-

Plumbing
Installing new plumbing in a basement or attic is made much easier lines. This usually means placing attic bathrooms directly above
and less expensive if you locate the fixtures near existing plumbing another bathroom or the kitchen and locating basement baths or laun-
dry centers close to the main waste-vent stack and house drain.
Drain rough-ins for basement bathrooms are installed during initial
construction of many newer homes. Without the rough-ins in place,
adding a basement bath usually requires cutting into the slab floor to
Vents
make the drain connections. In some basements, however, the main
Main waste- house drain does not extend through the basement floor but instead
vent stack
makes a turn above the floor and begins its run out to the city sewer.
In this situation, a bathroom requires a sewage ejector to collect the
waste from each fixture and pump it up to the main drain. Ejectors are
available from plumbing dealers, in both under-floor and above-floor
models.
Building codes typically allow 7-ft. ceilings in bathrooms, which
makes it easier to fit them into small attic spaces. If you plan to install
Main a bathtub in an attic bath, make sure the floor is strong enough to the
house support it.
drain
See pages 66 to 99 for more information on planning and installing
new plumbing.
HVAC
To supply heat and air conditioning to your basement or attic you may behind the finish surfaces of walls, ceilings, and floors. Radiant systems
need to expand your home’s central system, add a new system, or sim- can supply dry, consistent heat to warm anything from a tiled floor (see
ply install auxiliary heating or cooling appliances. pages 302 to 305) in a half bath to an entire basement slab. Large-scale
Expanding a forced-air system in a basement usually requires only a installations, however, are not for do-it-yourselfers.
few added ducts (see page 359). Running ducts to the attic is more
challenging: It’s often easiest to extend a duct straight up through the
intermediate floors. You can conceal the ducts in closets and other
inconspicuous areas or build a small wall around it. A hydronic (water
or steam) heating system can be expanded by adding new pipes and Main hot-air
supply duct New branch
fixtures; this is a job for a plumber or mechanical contractor. supply ducts
The main concern is whether your central HVAC system can handle
the additional load. If not, and upgrading the furnace or boiler isn’t
realistic, consider supplemental units, such as electric baseboard heaters
and room air conditioners.
Room A/C units typically plug into a 240-volt receptacle, while
heaters either plug into a standard 120-volt receptacle or are hard-
Main cold-air
wired to a 240-volt circuit (see page 119). Either may require a new return duct
circuit in your electrical panel.
A gas fireplace (see pages 384 to 390) is another good source of sup-
New cold-air
plemental heat, and today’s direct-vent fireplaces can be installed in return ducts
almost any room. Heater models reach higher temperatures than stan- Furnace
dard models, and units with electric fans circulate warm air efficiently.
Radiant heating systems are an increasingly popular option. These
systems provide heat via electrical wires or hot-water tubing laid out

Main cold-air Ventilating Attics
return duct
Windows and skylights provide effective passive ventilation for
attics. Opening the windows in the house encourages natural circu-
lation of cool air up through the floors. Whenever possible, install
Main windows on opposing walls to create a cross-breeze when both win-
supply dows are open. Room air conditioners also can help ventilate an
duct attic by replacing stale indoor air with outdoor air. However, a sin-
gle unit many not provide adequate ventilation for an entire attic.
Check with the local building department for ventilation require-
ments in your area.
Furnace
Damper
Ceiling Takeoff
register collar
boot
Branch duct
Expanding a forced-air system typically involves tapping into a main duct, using a takeoff
collar that directs air into a new branch duct. All branch ducts need dampers to control flow.
Forced-Air Systems
A typical gas-furnace forced-air system (see above) has a main supply
duct that supplies the warm air to the entire house via a network of
branch ducts. The return ducts are just the reverse. They bring cool air
from the rooms back to the furnace, providing air circulation through-
out the house. To find out which is which, turn on the furnace and feel
the ducts. Supply ducts will be warm, return ducts cool. The whole
system is balanced by adjustable dampers located inside the branch you with the planning:
ducts and controlled by the home’s thermostat. • Plan branch ducts with as few turns as possible; air moves most effi-
Some systems—called zone systems—are balanced by several auto- ciently through short, straight runs of duct.
matic dampers. Each damper is controlled by its own thermostat, thus • Use round, galvanized metal duct wherever possible; it’s the most
maintaining a consistent temperature within a specific zone. Zone sys- efficient for moving air. Use flexible duct only where metal isn’t prac-
tems are complicated, and you’ll need the help of an HVAC specialist tical. To save space, you may be able to use shallow rectangular metal
to expand the system. duct that fits between studs and joists.
With standard systems, providing heat and air conditioning to • Locate supply registers near exterior walls, below or above windows, if
remodeled spaces is fairly straightforward. While you’re planning the possible. Include at least one in each room. Place return air inlets on
walls and thinking about which rooms are going where, have an walls opposite the supply registers, to draw heated or cooled air across
HVAC specialist take a look at your system. He or she can help you the space. Do not place return inlets in bathrooms or kitchens or
find the best way to distribute air to the new space without compro- within 10 ft. of a gas-burning appliance.
mising service to the rest of the house. • Run ducts inside joist cavities, where possible. Otherwise, route them
In most cases, you can run new branch ducts directly from the main through closets or behind kneewalls in attics to help conceal them.
supply duct or from another branch duct and use empty wall-stud cavi- • Use existing ductwork to help size the new branch ducts. Note the sizes
ties to serve as branch cold-air return ducts. Here are a few tips to help and lengths of the old ducts and the sizes of the rooms they serve.

Designing a Guest Suite

Converting a basement into a guest suite has become an increas- office, and laundry facilities. When planning a guest suite, the
ingly popular remodeling project. Set apart from the main areas key is to evaluate all potential uses for the space to make sure
of the house, a basement suite offers guests privacy and indepen- that it will accommodate your family’s needs as they change over
dence. And, because many families today have three or more time.
generations living under one roof, a guest suite can be the per- An important consideration for a basement guest suite is pro-
fect solution. Incorporating universal design into your guest suite viding safe and easy access for everyone. Because stairs can be
will make the space more versatile for your family and visitors difficult for some, it’s a good idea to plan for stepless access,
and more attractive to potential buyers in the future. either now or in the future. A stair lift is a good option. Or you
More than a convenience for visitors, guest suites are often may want to plan for the future installation of a residential ele-
semipermanent living quarters for adult children and their chil- vator by building two large closets—one above the other—that
dren, live-in caretakers, aging parents, or teens who want private can be converted to an elevator shaft.
space. Designs can range from a simple plan with a single bed- In addition to the ideas given here, you may want to incorpo-
room and adjoining bathroom to an apartment-style layout with rate many of the universal design topics discussed in this book
a kitchenette, dining area, reading room or playroom, home (see page 17).
General Design
Simplicity should guide your design. Ample
space and open floor plans make it easier for
people with walkers or in wheelchairs to move
Bath Family room around. Plan for a range of sleeping habits
and schedules by separating playrooms,
Half
kitchens, and laundry facilities from bedrooms
bath and reading rooms. Include two bathrooms if
possible—one attached to the master bed-
room and one for visitors.
36"
Closet • Provide or plan for stepless access to
Entry the suite.
4 ft.
• Frame doorways 36" wide and hallways
42" wide.
Laundry Up
room • Eliminate thresholds and changes in floor
Master bedroom heights; install smooth transition devices
between floor coverings.
• Include wiring that can accommodate a
Morning range of needs over time. Overnight guests
kitchen may not require network connections, for
example, but long-term residents will.
5 ft.
Install as many electrical receptacles as is
practical, so appliances and fixtures can
remain in place.
• Maximize natural and nonglare lighting—
visitors of all ages will appreciate this,
360 Converting Basements & Attics/ Universal Design

Guest Suite Kitchens

A kitchen can be a great convenience for your
guests. It provides independence for guests; a
suite kitchen can range from very simple to
full-sized. A popular feature in many homes
today is the morning kitchen. Usually small and
simple, a typical morning kitchen might
include a coffeemaker, small sink with an
instant-hot-water tap, and an under-counter
refrigerator. Larger morning kitchens might
include a toaster, microwave, small dishwasher,
or even a small cooktop and oven.
Your suite kitchen should include at least
one section of countertop at a lower height
and with knee space underneath to provide a
work space for a seated user. Make sure shelv- An under-counter refrigerator with an ice maker is
ing and appliances are reachable by small or perfect for a guest suite morning kitchen.
seated users. If space is a concern, consider
alternatives to standard cabinetry and appli-
Stair lifts are available in a variety of styles. Most are ances, like drawer-type refrigerators and bedroom and one from the living area.
mounted to the stair treads or the stairway walls. dishwashers or narrow pull-out pantries. Plan for sufficient space and good
See pages 418 to 421, for more advice on lighting; older adults require more light—
universal kitchen design. especially in bathrooms, where accidents
especially if your home is unfamiliar are most likely to occur. Varied counter-
to them. Guest Suite Bathrooms top and low mirror heights, nonslip
• Place telephones in each room of the Your suite should include at least one full flooring, and reachable shelving are also
suite, including the bathroom. bathroom designed for universal use. An addi- important considerations.
• Consider installing an intercom tional half bath can make a suite more livable, People of all sizes and abilities use the
system for communication within the but if space limits you to one bathroom, be fixtures in a guest bathroom, so explore a
suite and between the suite and the sure it has two entrances—one from the main variety of options before buying. Several
main house. manufacturers offer tubs and whirlpool
• Ensure that people of different heights baths that have doors that open for easier
will be able to reach windows, cabi- entry and exit. Barrier-free showers are
nets, closet rods, appliances, fixtures, also available.
switches, and electrical receptacles. Include standard safety features in your
guest bathroom. Install grab bars or add
Guest Suite Bedrooms blocking so they can be installed in the
The guest suite bedroom should feel like future (pages 582 to 583). Antiscald
a home away from home, and its loca- faucets are required in showers, but it’s a
tion should provide privacy without good idea to install them on sinks, as well.
being inconvenient. Laundry rooms also Features like lower sinks and vanities with
are nice luxuries; be sure to place them fold-away doors maintain the appearance
where noise won’t be a problem. Allow of standard fixtures while providing
plenty of space within the bedroom for greater accessibility for those who need it.
maneuvering and provide clear pathways Any guest or resident will appreciate the luxury of a See pages 430 to 433 for more bath-
between the bed, bathroom, and closets. barrier-free whirlpool tub. room guidelines and universal design tips.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Universal Design 361

Preparing Basement Floors

Preparing a concrete floor—for carpet, laminate, vinyl, or wood floor- Allow the subfloor panel squares to acclimate in the basement for at
ing—has changed for the better in dramatic fashion, thanks to new least 24 hours with the plastic surfaces facing down before installing
subfloor products that have built-in vapor barriers and cleats that create them. In humid summer months, the squares—as well as the finished
a slight air gap between the subfloor and the concrete slab. This system wood flooring product, if that’s what you’ll be installing—should be
allows air to circulate, protecting the finished flooring from any slab allowed to acclimate for a full two weeks before installation.
moisture. The older method of laying 3⁄4" plywood over a frame of To estimate the number of 2-ft.-square subfloor panels you’ll need,
2 × 4 “sleepers” was difficult, time-consuming, and raised the floor level calculate the size of the room in square feet (multiply the width times
by 2" or more—a significant drawback in basements where ceiling levels the length of the room), then divide by 3.3 to determine the number of
may already be too low. The new dry-floor subfloor systems are less panels required.
than 1" thick and are very easy to install. There are several types of
these dry-floor systems available, but the one most readily available and
easiest to use is a product sold in 2 × 2-ft. tongue-and-groove squares.
Although subfloor panels can be adjusted for slight irregularities in Tools: Long straightedge, straightedge trowel, circular saw or
the concrete slab, they can’t overcome problems with a floor that is jig saw, hammer, carpenter’s square, flat pry bar, dust mask,
badly cracked and heaved. Nor is the built-in air gap beneath the sys- eye protection.
tem a solution to a basement that has serious water problems. A badly Materials: Portland-cement–based leveling compound, dry-floor
heaved slab will need to be leveled with a cement-based leveling com- subfloor squares, leveling shims, flooring spacers.
pound, and serious water problems will need to be rectified before you
consider creating finished living space in a basement.
Shown cutaway for clarity
Wood laminate
flooring
Dry-floor subfloor
square
Underlayment
Basement slab
Most basement floors need some preparation before flooring can be laid. Patching compound and floor leveler can smooth rough concrete, while a subfloor system creates a new surface
that is safe from moisture and feels like a framed wood floor.
362 Converting Basements & Attics/ Basement Floors

Preparing Concrete Floors
A B
Vacuum the floor thoroughly, then use a long straightedge to look for areas of the floor with Mix a batch of cement-based mortar and apply the compound to low areas with a straight-
serious dips or heaves. NOTE: Any old floor coverings that may trap moisture should be edge trowel. After the patch dries, scrape the edges to feather the patch into the surrounding
removed before installing subfloor panels. floor.
Installing Subfloor Panels

A B
Beginning with the longest straight wall in the room, check one corner for square. If necessary, By hand, press along the entire row of panels, looking for low spots. At points where the sub-
cut the first panel to match the angle of the corner. Position the panel in the corner, using 1⁄4" floor flexes, lift the panels and place leveling shims on the floor. In some areas, you may find
spacers to create a gap between the panel and the walls, with the grooves of the panel against it necessary to stack two, three, or more shims to create the correct thickness to fill the low
the spacers. Slide in the next panel, and use a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it firmly spot. Tape the shims to the floor to keep them in place as you reposition the panels.
against the first panel. Repeat this placement along the entire wall. Cut the last panel to size. Continued on next page
Converting Basements & Attics/ Basement Floors 363

Installing Subfloor Panels (cont.)
C D
Begin the next row of panels by cutting a half-wide panel, creating offset joints between the If the room has a floor drain, building code requires that you cut a round patch in the panel
rows. Finish the second row, test it for flatness, and shim if necessary. Move on to the third that falls directly over the floor drain. This patch can be removed to allow access to the floor
row, this time beginning with a full panel. Work across the entire room in this fashion, test- drain should it ever be necessary.
ing each row for flatness, shimming where necessary, and making sure joints are offset
between rows.
For the last row of panels, measure and cut panels to fit, maintaining a 1⁄4" gap between the VARIATION: Where slab moisture is known to be a problem, you can cut vent openings spaced
panels and the wall. Work each panel into place with a flat pry bar. When all panels are in every 8 to 12", sized to match standard metal floor vent covers. Trace the vent opening onto
place, you can remove all spacers and continue with the installation of the finished flooring. the panel, and cut the opening with a jig saw.
Laminate flooring can be installed directly over the subfloor panels, but carpet, vinyl, or
ceramic tile will require one of the variations on page 365.
364 Converting Basements & Attics/ Basement Floors

Variation: If carpeting will be stretched over the dry-floor panels, anchor the panels to the Variation: For vinyl flooring or for engineered wood flooring, install 1⁄4" plywood underlayment
floor around the perimeter of the room and at the center of the room using concrete over the dry-floor panels, using 1⁄2" screws or nails, which won’t penetrate the moisture barrier
masonry anchors. Use a powder-actuated nailer to drive 2" nails through the panels and on the underside of the panels. (See page 289 for installing plywood.) Don’t glue the plywood
into the concrete slab (see page 372). to the subfloor panels, and never glue vinyl flooring directly to the subfloor panels.
Variation: For ceramic tile, install 1⁄2" cementboard over the subfloor panels, and attach it Where floor heights change, install transition strips or reducers, available in flooring depart-
using 3⁄4" screws. (See page 290 for installing cementboard). ments of home improvement centers, to bridge the changes in floor heights.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Basement Floors 365

Building Attic Floors

Before you build the walls that will define the rooms in your attic, you’ll lb. per sq. ft. of live load (occupants, furniture) and 10 lb. per sq. ft. of
need a sturdy floor. Existing floors in most unfinished attics are merely dead load (wallboard, floor covering).
ceiling joists for the floor below and are too small to support living spaces. The floor joist cavities offer space for concealing the plumbing,
There are several options for strengthening your attic’s floor structure. wiring, and ductwork servicing your attic, so consider these systems as
The simplest method is to install an additional, identically sized joist you plan. You’ll also need to plan the locations of partition walls to
next to each existing joist, connecting the two with nails. This process is determine if any additional blocking between joists is necessary (see
known as sistering. pages 46 to 47).
Sistering doesn’t work when joists are smaller than 2 × 6s, where joists When the framing is done, the mechanical elements and insulation
are spaced too far apart, or where there are obstructions, such as plaster are in place, and everything has been inspected and approved, complete
keys from the ceiling below. An alternative is to build a new floor by the floor by installing 3⁄4" tongue-and-groove plywood. If your remodel
placing larger joists between the existing ones. By resting the joists on will include kneewalls, you can omit the subflooring behind the knee-
2 × 4 spacers, you avoid obstructions and minimize damage to the ceil- walls, but there are good reasons not to: A complete subfloor will add
ing surfaces below. However, be aware that the spacers will reduce your strength to the floor and will provide a sturdy surface for storage.
headroom by 11⁄2" inches, plus the added joist depth.
To determine the best option for your attic, consult an architect, engi-
neer, or building contractor, as well as a local building inspector. Ask Tools: Circular saw, rafter square, drill, caulk gun.
what size of joists you’ll need and which options are allowed in your Materials: 2 × joist lumber; 16d, 10d, and 8d common nails;
area. Joist sizing is based on the span (the distance between support 2 × 4 lumber; 3⁄4" tongue-and-groove plywood; construction
points), the joist spacing (typically 16" or 24" on-center), and the type adhesive; 21⁄4" wallboard screws.
of lumber used. In most cases, an attic floor must be able to support 40
Rafter Floor joists
Exterior load- Interior load-

bearing wall bearing wall
Attic joists typically rest on top of exterior walls and on an interior load-bearing wall, where they overlap from side to side and are nailed together. Always use a sheet of plywood as a plat-
form while working over open joists.
366 Converting Basements & Attics/ Attic Floors

Adding Sister Joists
A B
Remove all insulation from the joist cavities and carefully remove any blocking or bridging Before cutting, sight down both narrow edges of each board to check for crowning—upward
between the joists. Determine the lengths for the sister joists by measuring the existing joists. arching along the length of the board. Draw an arrow that points in the direction of the arch.
Also measure at the outside end of each joist to determine how much of the top corner was Joists must be installed “crown-up;” this arrow designates the top edge. Cut the board to
cut away to fit the joist beneath the roof sheathing. NOTE: Joists that rest on a bearing wall length, then clip the top, outside corner to match the existing joists.
should overlap each other by at least 3".
C D
Set the sister joists in place, flush against the existing joists and with their ends aligned. Nail the joists together using 10d common nails. Drive three nails in a row, spacing the rows
Toenail each sister joist to the top plates of both supporting walls, using two 16d common 12" to 16" apart. To minimize damage (such as cracking and nail popping) to the ceiling sur-
nails. face below caused by the hammering, you can use an air-powered nail gun (available at
rental stores), or 3" lag screws instead of nails. Install new blocking between the sistered joists,
as required by the local building code.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Attic Floors 367

Building a New Attic Floor
A B
Remove any blocking or bridging from between the existing joists, being careful not to disturb Create a layout for the new joists by measuring across the tops of the existing joists and using
the ceiling below. Cut 2 × 4 spacers to fit snugly between each pair of joists. Lay the spacers a rafter square to transfer the measurements down to the spacers. Following 16"-on-center
flat against the top plate of all supporting walls, and nail them in place with 16d common spacing, mark the layout along one exterior wall, then mark an identical layout onto the inte-
nails. rior bearing wall. Note that the layout on the opposing exterior wall will be offset 11⁄2", to
account for the joist overlap at the interior wall.
C D
To determine joist length, measure from the outer edge of the exterior wall to the far edge of Set the joists in place on their layout marks. Toenail the outside end of each joist to the spacer
the interior bearing wall. The joists must overlap each other above the interior wall by 3". on the exterior wall, using three 8d common nails.
Before cutting, mark the top edge of each joist (see step B, page 367). Cut the joists to length,
then clip the top, outside corners so the ends can fit under the roof sheathing.
368 Converting Basements & Attics/ Attic Floors

E F
Nail the joists together where they overlap atop the interior bearing wall, using three 10d nails Install blocking or bridging between the joists, as required by the local building code. As a
for each. Toenail the joists to the spacers on the interior bearing wall, using 8d nails. suggested minimum, the new joists should be blocked as close as possible to the outside ends
and at the points where they overlap at the interior wall.
Installing Subflooring
Subflooring
Joist
2 × 4 Backing
Install the subflooring only after all framing, plumbing, wiring, and ductwork is com- the sheets are perpendicular to the joists and the end joints are staggered between rows.
pleted and has received the required building inspections. Also install any insulation and Where joists overlap at an interior bearing wall, add backing as needed to compensate for
complete any caulking necessary for soundproofing (see pages 220 to 223). Fasten the the offset in the layout. Nail a 2 × 4 (or wider) board to the face of each joist to support
sheets with construction adhesive and 21⁄4" wallboard or deck screws every 6", making sure the edges of the intervening sheets.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Attic Floors 369

Covering Foundation Walls

There are two common methods for covering foundation walls. Common types of moisture barriers include masonry waterproofers
Because it saves space, the more popular method is to attach 2 × 2 fur- that are applied like paint and plastic sheeting installed between
ring strips directly to masonry walls. These strips provide a 11⁄2"-deep masonry walls and wood framing. The local building code will also
cavity between strips for insulation and service lines, as well as a frame- specify whether you need a vapor barrier between the framing and the
work for attaching wallboard. The other method is to build complete wallboard (see pages 218 to 219).
2 × 4 stud walls just in front of the foundation walls. This method Before you shop for materials, decide how you’ll fasten the wood
offers a full 31⁄2" for insulation and lines, and it provides a flat, plumb framing to your foundation walls and floor. The three most common
wall surface, regardless of the foundation wall’s condition. methods are shown on pages 371 to 373. For covering a large wall area,
To determine the best method for your project, examine the founda- it will be worth it to buy or rent a powder-actuated nailer for the job.
tion walls. If they’re fairly plumb and flat, you can consider furring
them. If the walls are wavy or out of plumb, however, it may be easier
to build stud walls. Also check with the local building department Tools: Caulk gun, trowel, paint roller, circular saw, drill, powder-
before you decide on a framing method. There may be codes regarding actuated nailer, plumb bob.
insulation minimums and methods of running service lines along foun- Materials: Paper-faced insulation, silicone caulk, hydraulic
dation walls. cement, masonry waterproofer, 2 × 2 and 2 × 4 lumber, 21⁄2"
A local building official can also tell you what’s recommended— wallboard screws, construction adhesive, concrete fasteners,
or required—in your area for sealing foundation walls against moisture. insulation.
Foundation wall
Masonry waterproofer
Plastic moisture barrier
Rigid foam insulation
Furring
strip Plastic vapor barrier
Local building codes may require a barrier to prevent moisture from damaging wood and insulation covering foundation walls. This may be masonry waterproofer or plastic sheeting placed
behind or in front of the framing.
370 Converting Basements & Attics/ Foundation Walls

Sealing & Preparing Masonry Walls
Sill plate
Insulate the rim-joist cavities (above the foundation walls) with solid pieces of paper-faced Fill small cracks with hydraulic cement or masonry caulk, and smooth the excess with a
fiberglass insulation. Make sure the paper, which serves as a vapor barrier, faces the room. trowel. Ask the building department whether masonry waterproofer or a plastic moisture bar-
Also apply silicone caulk to the joints between the sill plates and the foundation walls (inset). rier is required in your area. Apply waterproofer as directed by the manufacturer, or install
plastic sheeting following code specifications.
Options for Attaching Wood to Masonry Walls
Masonry nails offer the cheapest way to attach wood to concrete block walls. Drive the nails Self-tapping masonry screws hold well in block or poured concrete, but they must be driven
into the mortar joints for maximum holding power and to avoid cracking the blocks. Drill into predrilled holes. Position the wood, then use a hammer drill to drill holes of the same size
pilot holes through the strips if the nails cause the wood to split. If the walls are poured con- in both the wood and the concrete. Drive the screws into the web portion of the blocks (see
crete, consider another method—it‘s difficult to drive masonry nails into poured concrete. page 372).
Converting Basements & Attics/ Foundation Walls 371

Options for Attaching Wood to Masonry Walls (cont.)
Powder-actuated nailers offer the quickest and easiest
Webs
method for fastening framing to block, poured concrete, and
steel. They use individual caps of gunpowder—called loads—
to propel a piston that drives a hardened-steel nail (pin)
through the wood and into the masonry. The loads are color-
coded for the charge they produce, and the pins come in
various lengths. NOTE: Always drive pins into the solid web
portions of concrete blocks, not into the voids.
Trigger-type nailers, like the one shown here, are easiest to

use, but hammer-activated types are also available. You can
buy nailers at home centers and hardware stores or rent
them from rental centers. (Ask for a demonstration at the
rental center.) Always wear hearing and eye protection when
using these extremely loud tools.
Installing Furring Strips

A
Joist
Backer
Sill plate Top plate
Cut a 2 × 2 top plate to span the length of the wall. Mark the furring-strip layout onto the Tip: If the joists run parallel to the wall, you’ll need to install backers between the outer joist
bottom edge of the plate, using 16"-on-center spacing (see step B, page 47). If the joists are and the sill plate to provide support for ceiling wallboard. Make T-shaped backers from short
perpendicular to the wall, align the back edge of the plate with the faces of the blocks, and 2 × 4s and 2 × 2s. Install each so the bottom face of the 2 × 4 is flush with the bottom edge
attach the plate to the joists with 21⁄2" wallboard screws. If the joists are parallel with the wall, of the joist.
attach the top plate to the foundation wall so its top edge is flush with the top of the blocks.

B C
Install a bottom plate cut from pressure-treated 2 × 2 lumber so the plate spans the length Cut 2 × 2 furring strips to fit between the top and bottom plates. Apply construction adhe-
of the wall. Apply construction adhesive to the back and bottom of the plate, then attach it sive to the back of each furring strip, and position the strips on the layout marks on the
to the floor with a nailer. Use a plumb bob to transfer the furring-strip layout marks from the plates. Nail along the length of each strip at 16" intervals.
top plate to the bottom plate.
VA R I AT I O N : Leave a channel for the installation of wires or pipes by installing pairs of ver- Fill the cavities between furring strips with rigid insulation board. Cut the pieces so they fit
tically aligned furring strips with a 2" gap between each pair. NOTE: Consult local codes to snugly within the framing. If necessary, make cutouts in the insulation to fit around mechan-
ensure proper installation of electrical or plumbing materials. ical elements, and cover any channels with metal protective plates before attaching the wall
surface. Add a vapor barrier if required by local building code.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Foundation Walls 373

Tips for Covering Foundation Walls with Stud Walls
Top plate
Stud
wall
Vapor barrier
Block
1
⁄2" air wall
space
Fireblocking
Insulation
Pressure-treated
bottom plate
Build a standard 2 × 4 partition wall, following the basic steps on pages 46 to 49. Use and the masonry walls (inset). Insulate the stud walls with fiberglass blankets, and install a
pressure-treated lumber for bottom plates that rest on concrete. To minimize moisture prob- vapor barrier if required by local code. Also install all fireblocking required by local code. As
lems and avoid unevenness in foundation walls, leave a 1⁄2" air space between the stud walls an alternative, you can build the walls using full-width (35⁄8") steel studs (see pages 52 to 53).
Wallboard
Top plate
Rough sill Studs
Frame around a basement window so the framing is flush with the edges of the masonry Build a short stud wall to cover a low foundation wall in a walkout or “daylight” basement.
on all sides. Install a rough sill at the base of the window opening and add a header, if nec- Install the top plate flush with the top of the foundation wall. Finish the wall surface with
essary. Fill the space between the framing members and the masonry with fiberglass insulation wallboard or other finish, then cap the walls with finish-grade lumber or plywood to create
or nonexpanding foam insulation. Install wallboard so it butts against the window frame. a decorative shelf.

Framing Soffits & Chases
Your unfinished basement or attic is sure to have beams, pipes, posts, to local building codes. There may be code restrictions about the types
ductwork, and other elements that are vital to your house but become of mechanicals that can be grouped together, as well as minimum
big obstacles to finishing the space. When you can’t conceal the clearances between the framing and the elements it encloses. And most
obstructions within walls and you’ve determined it’s too costly to move codes specify that soffits, chases, and other framed structures have fire-
them, hide them inside a framed soffit or chase. This can also provide a blocking every 10 ft. and at the intersections between soffits and
place to run smaller mechanicals, like wiring and water supply lines. neighboring walls. Remember, too, that drain cleanouts and shutoff
Soffits and chases are easy to build. A soffit is usually constructed valves must be accessible, so you’ll need to install access panels at these
with 2 × 2 lumber or 15⁄8" steel studs (see pages 52 to 53), both of locations.
which are easy to work with and inexpensive. You can use 2 × 4s for
large soffits that will house other elements, such as lighting fixtures. Tools: Circular saw, drill, powder-actuated nailer.
Chases should be framed with 2 × 4s or steel studs.
This section shows you some basic techniques for building soffits and Materials: Standard lumber (2 × 2, 2 × 4), pressure-treated
chases, but the design of your framing is up to you. For example, you 2 × 4s, construction adhesive, wallboard, unfaced fiberglass
may want to shape your soffits for a decorative effect, or build an over- insulation, nails, wood trim, plywood, wallboard screws, decora-
tive screws.
size chase that holds bookshelves. Just make sure the framing conforms
Wall stud
Air
duct
Fireblocking Recessed
lighting
fixture
Wallboard
Soffit
frame
Hide immovable obstructions in a soffit built from dimension lumber or steel framing members and covered with wallboard or other finish material. An extra-wide soffit is also a great
place to install recessed lighting fixtures.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Soffits & Chases 375

Building Soffits
Obstructions perpendicular to joists. Build two ladder-like
Joist frames for the soffit sides, using standard 2 × 2s. Install 2 × 2
Wallboard braces (or “rungs”) every 16" or 24" to provide nailing sup-
Braces port for the edges of the wallboard or other finish material.
Attach the side frames to the joists on either side of the
obstruction, using nails or screws. Then, install crosspieces
beneath the obstacle, tying the two sides together. Cover the
soffit with wallboard, plywood, or other finish material.
Crosspieces
Obstructions parallel to joists. Build side frames as with

perpendicular obstructions, but size them to fit in between
two joists. This provides nailing surfaces for both the soffit
and ceiling finish materials. Attach the frames to the joists
Joist with screws, then install crosspieces. NOTE: If you are enclosing
Fiberglass a drain pipe, wrap the pipe in unfaced fiberglass insulation
insulation to muffle the sound of draining water.
Soffit Wallboard
frame
Maximize headroom. In rooms with low ceilings, and where

Joist an obstruction is less than 12" wide and the finish material
will be wallboard or plywood, build side frames (see above)
so that the bottom edges are 1⁄8" lower than the lowest point
of the obstruction. For this type of soffit, the bottom piece of
wallboard or plywood stabilizes the structure, so crosspieces
between side frames aren’t necessary. Use this construction
method if you are framing with steel (see pages 52 to 53).
Soffits framed with steel often are easier to build in place.
2 × 2 side
frame Wallboard 1
⁄8" gap
376 Converting Basements & Attics/ Soffits & Chases

Framing a Chase Making Access Panels
Make access panels after installing wallboard. In a horizontal surface, cut out a square piece
of wallboard at the access location; set it inside the soffit. Glue mitered trim around the open-
ing so it overlaps the edges by 1⁄2". Position the cutout over the trim to cover the opening. In
a vertical surface, glue the trim to the cutout to create the panel. Install plywood strips to the
back of the wallboard at two sides of the opening. Secure the panel to the strips with screws.
Attaching Framing to Steel
Steel beam
Joists
Minimum
fastening
distance: 2 × 8"
11⁄2" from top plate
edge
Support column
Shown
cutaway
Build chases with 2 × 4s or steel studs. For wood frames, use pressure-treated lumber for bot- Use a powder-actuated nailer (see page 372) to attach wood and steel framing to steel
tom plates on concrete floors, attaching them with construction adhesive and powder- I-beams and columns. Hold the nailer at a right angle to the surface and drive the fastener
actuated nailer fasteners (see page 372). Cut top plates from standard lumber and nail or at least 11⁄2" from the edge of the steel. Use a fastener and power load appropriate to the tool
screw them in place. Install studs to form the corners of the chase, and block in between them and each application. The tool manufacturer should supply a manual, fastener charts, and
for stability. To make the chase smaller, notch the top and bottom plates around the obstruc- load charts with the tool. Always wear eye and ear protection when working with these tools.
tion, and install the studs flat. If you’re framing around a vertical drain pipe (especially the
main DWV stack), leave room around the pipe for soundproofing insulation; plastic pipes can
be especially noisy.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Soffits & Chases 377

Building Attic Kneewalls

Attic kneewalls are short walls that extend from the attic floor to the
rafters. They provide a vertical dimension to attic rooms and without
them, attics tend to feel cramped. Kneewalls are typically 5 ft. tall, for
a couple of reasons: That’s the minimum ceiling height for usable
floor space according to most building codes, and it defines a com-
fortable room without wasting too much floor space. The unfinished
space behind kneewalls doesn’t have to go to waste. It’s great for stor-
age and for concealing service lines. To provide access to this space,
create a framed opening in the wall during the framing process much
like framing an opening for a door or window (see pages 54 to 56).
Kneewalls are similar to partition walls, except they have beveled top
plates and angle-cut studs that follow the slope of the rafters. The
added stud depth created by the angled cut requires a 2 × 6 top plate.
Before starting on your kneewall project, review the techniques for
building a partition wall (pages 46 to 49).
Tools: Circular saw, level, chalk line, T-bevel.

Materials: 2 × 4 and 2 × 6 lumber, 16d and
8d common nails.
Building an Attic Kneewall

A
Attic kneewalls are just the right height to be backdrops for furniture, and they make a per- Create a storyboard using a straight 2 × 4. Cut the board a few inches longer than the
fect foundation for built-in storage units (see pages 398 to 401). planned height of the wall. Measure from one end and draw a line across the front edge of
the board at the exact wall height.
378 Converting Basements & Attics/ Kneewalls

B C D
At one end of the room, set the storyboard flat against the Holding the storyboard perfectly plumb, trace along the bot- Repeat the wall-plate marking process on the other end of the
outer rafter. Plumb the storyboard with a level while aligning tom edge of the rafter to transfer the rafter slope onto the room. Snap a chalk line through the marks—across the
the height mark with the bottom edge of the rafter. Transfer face of the storyboard. rafters and along the subfloor. If necessary, add backing for
the height mark onto the rafter edge, then make a mark fastening the top plate to the gable wall.
along the front edge of the storyboard onto the subfloor.
These marks indicate the top and bottom wall plates.
E F
Rafter
2×6
top plate
2×4
stud
To cut a beveled edge on the top wall plate, set a T-bevel to match the rafter-slope line on the Mark the stud locations on the wall plates (see pages 47 to 48). Install the plates along the
storyboard. Use the T-bevel to adjust the blade of a circular saw or table saw to the proper chalk lines, fastening them to the rafters and floor joists, respectively, using 16d nails. Measure
angle. Then, bevel-cut one edge of the 2 × 6 top plate. NOTE: When the top plate is laid flat and cut each stud to fit, angle-cutting the top end so that it meets flush with the top plate.
across the rafters, the front edge should be perpendicular to the floor (inset). Toenail each stud in place with three 8d nails.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Kneewalls 379

Framing an Attic Ceiling

By virtue of sloping roofs, most attics naturally have
“cathedral” ceilings. It’s up to you whether to leave the
peaks intact—and apply a finish surface all the way up
to the ridge—or to frame-in a horizontal ceiling, creat-
ing a flat surface that’s more like a standard ceiling.
Before deciding, consider the advantages and disadvan-
tages of each treatment.
If your attic has collar ties—horizontal braces
installed between opposing rafters (see page 349)—
your planning should start with those. Are the ties high
enough to meet the code requirements for attic head-
room? If not, consult an architect or engineer to see if
you can move them up a few inches (do not move or
remove them without professional guidance). If the ties
are high enough, you can incorporate them into a new
ceiling or leave them exposed and wrap them with a
finish material, such as wallboard or finish-grade lum-
ber. Do not use collar ties as part of your ceiling frame.
A peaked ceiling is primarily an aesthetic option. Its
height expands the visual space of the room, and its
rising angles provide a dramatic look that’s unique in
most homes. Because a peaked ceiling encloses the
rafter bays all the way up to the ridge, this treatment
Flat attic ceilings provide space for recessed light fixtures, vents, and speakers. may require additional roof vents to maintain proper
ventilation (see pages 382 to 383).
By contrast, a flat ceiling typically offers a cleaner,
more finished appearance closer to that of a conven-
tional room, and flat ceilings offer some practical
advantages over peaked styles. First, they provide a
concealed space above the ceiling, great for running
service lines. If there are vents high on the gable walls,
this open space can help ventilate the roof (make sure
to insulate above the ceiling). The ceiling itself can
hold recessed lighting fixtures or support a ceiling fan.
And if your plans call for full-height partition walls,
Collar tie
you may want a ceiling frame to enclose the top of
the walls.
When determining the height of flat-ceiling framing,
be sure to account for the floor and ceiling finishes.
And remember that most building codes require a fin-
ished ceiling height of at least 71⁄2 ft.
Tools: 4-ft. level, chalk line, circular saw.

Added trim
Materials: 2 × 4 and 2 × 6 lumber, 10d
Exposed collar ties can add an interesting architectural element to a peaked ceiling. By adding trim boards to common nails.
the existing ties, you can create a channel for holding small light fixtures (inset).
380 Converting Basements & Attics/ Attic Ceilings

Framing a Flat Attic Ceiling
A B
Make a storyboard for the planned height of the ceiling frame (see step A, page 378). At one Using a level and the storyboard, level over from the chalk line and mark two outside rafters
end of the attic, hold the storyboard plumb and align the height mark with the bottom edge on the other side of the attic. Snap a chalk line through the marks. NOTE: The storyboard is
of a rafter. Transfer the mark to the rafter. Repeat at the other end of the attic, then snap a used merely as a straightedge for this step.
chalk line through the marks. This line indicates the bottom edge of the ceiling frame.
C D
Cut 2 × 6 joists to span across the rafters, angle-cutting the ends to follow the roof pitch. Nail each joist to the rafters with three 10d common nails at each end. Be sure to maintain
Check each joist for crowning to make sure you’re cutting it to be installed with the crowned 16"- or 24"-on-center spacing between joists to provide support for attaching wallboard or
edge up (see step B, page 367). Make the overall length about 1⁄2" short so the ends of the joists other finish material.
won’t touch the roof sheathing.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Attic Ceilings 381

Insulating & Ventilating Roofs

Ventilation works in concert with insulation to keep your roof deck all of each rafter bay with insulation and a ceiling finish. A flat attic
healthy. Roofs need ventilation for a number of reasons. During hot ceiling will provide some open air space above the ceiling, but air flow
weather, direct sunlight can heat a roof considerably, and air flow still may be limited. With a peaked ceiling, the rafter bays are enclosed
underneath the roof deck helps reduce temperatures, keeping your attic up to the ridge, and a single roof vent can serve only one rafter bay. To
cooler. In cold climates, and particularly in areas with heavy snowfall, improve ventilation, you can install additional roof and soffit vents or a
roofs need ventilation to prevent ice dams and other moisture prob- continuous ridge vent, which provides ventilation to all of the rafter bays.
lems. As you insulate your attic ceiling, you need to make sure the roof A roof ventilation system must have a clear air path between the
will remain properly ventilated. intake and exhaust vents. For this reason, most building codes call for
Here’s how roof ventilation works: Air intake vents installed in the 1" of air space between the insulation and the roof sheathing. To ensure
soffits—called soffit vents—allow outdoor air to pass under the roof this air space remains unobstructed, install insulation baffles in the
sheathing and flow up toward the ridge, where it exits through one or rafter bays. Also be sure to install enough insulation to meet the rec-
more exhaust vents. In unfinished attics, with insulation only along the ommended R-value for your area. This may require increasing the
floor, air is allowed to flow from open rafter bays into a common air depth of your attic rafters to accommodate the insulation and baffles.
space under the roof. It can then be exhausted through any of the roof For more information on insulation R-values and installation, see pages
or gable vents. When you finish your attic, however, you enclose part or 218 to 219.
Sheathing
Continuous Finished
ridge vent attic
Rafter
Shingles
Insulation
baffle
Unfinished
attic
Insulation
Soffit vent
A roof ventilation system works in conjunction with attic insulation: Insulation forms a thermal barrier that keeps in the home’s conditioned air, while the ventilation system uses outdoor
air to keep the roof deck cool and dry. In most unfinished attics, the entire attic space is ventilated, and proper airflow can be achieved with roof vents or gable-wall vents.
382 Converting Basements & Attics/ Roofs

Tips for Insulating Roofs
Increase the rafter depth to make room for thicker insula- Use insulation baffles to provide a continuous air channel Lay fiberglass insulation, stopping short of the baffle open-
tion by attaching 2 × 2s to the rafter edges. Fasten the 2 × 2s behind the insulation. The baffles should start just in front of ing to avoid restricting air flow. Insulation in the attic floor
with 3"-long, countersunk screws. You can also save space by the exterior walls’ top plates and extend up to the exhaust should cover the exterior walls’ top plates but not extend into
using high-density insulation. vents. Attach the baffles to the roof sheathing with staples. the soffit cavities.
Options for Ventilating Roofs
Roof vents (box- or mushroom-type) are commonly used to ventilate unfinished attics. You Continuous ridge vents are the most effective roof vents, because they ventilate along the
can improve ventilation by adding more roof vents and soffit vents (inset). If your rafter bays entire ridge. It costs less to have one installed during a re-roofing project, but they can be
are enclosed all the way to the ridge, be sure the soffit vents and roof vents are installed along installed onto an existing roof that’s in good condition. This type of vent works best when used
the same rafter bays. in conjunction with continuous soffit vents (inset).
Converting Basements & Attics/ Roofs 383

Installing a Gas Fireplace

A new gas fireplace with direct venting can be
the perfect addition to an attic or basement.
Direct venting is a ventilation system that uses
a special 2-in-1 vent pipe: The inner pipe car-
ries exhaust fumes outside, while the outer
pipe draws in fresh air for combustion. The
vent pipe can be routed in many different
ways, which means you can install a gas fire-
place in almost any room.
Gas fireplaces are commonly available as
standard (decorative) or heater types. They are
similar in appearance, but heater models are
designed to provide much more heat. This
heat can enter the room passively or be blown
out by an optional electric fan. Other options
for both types include remote starting and
electronic ignition.
Installing a gas fireplace is a great do-it-
yourself project because you can design and
build the fireplace frame to suit your needs and
add your own finish treatments. It all starts
with some careful planning. Once you decide
on a fireplace model and determine where to
place it, order all of the vent pipes and fittings
needed to complete the vent run.
The project shown here demonstrates the
installation of a decorative fireplace in a base-
ment. The unit is top-vented upward and out
through a concrete block wall. The frame is a
rectangular box that extends from floor to ceil-
ing and is finished with wallboard. A factory-
made oak mantel sits above the fireplace, and
a row of ceramic floor tile surrounds the fire-
place opening.
Your fireplace project can match this one,
or you can adapt the basic steps to suit your
own design. The main difference among fire-
place installations is the venting. Regardless
of your project plans, make sure to use all the
required parts and follow the installation
methods specified by the manufacturer and
local building codes.
384 Converting Basements & Attics/ Gas Fireplace

Planning the Project
NOTE: Consult the manufacturer’s instruc- Blocking
tions for the specifications regarding for top
placement, clearances, and venting methods plates Vent
for your fireplace. pipe
Elbow
Start your planning by determining the best
location for the fireplace. Placing the unit
next to an exterior wall simplifies the venting
required. One important specification for a
basement fireplace is that the termination cap
(on the outside end of the vent) must be 12"
above the ground. In the project shown, the
vent runs up 3 ft. before it turns at an elbow
and passes through a masonry wall. Because
the wall is noncombustible, no heat shield is
needed around the vent penetration.
Next, design the frame. As long as it meets Cripple
the clearance requirements for your fireplace, studs
the frame can be any size and shape you’d
like. Typical clearance minimums include a
1
⁄2" space between the framing and the sides 1
⁄2" clearance
and back of the unit and a 1⁄4" space (for posi- at back of unit
tioning and adjusting the unit) above the Header
standoffs. The easiest way to build a frame is
to use 2 × 4s and wallboard.
Finally, plan the rough-ins. Most fireplaces
use a 1⁄2" gas supply line that connects directly Standoffs
to the unit. Check with the local gas utility or (1⁄4" clearance)
building department to determine what pip-
ing you’ll need and the gas output required for
your model. You may also need electrical
wiring installed if your fireplace includes
optional equipment, such as a blower or
remote ignition. Complete the rough-ins after
the frame is built. If you’re not qualified to do
the job yourself, hire professionals. 1
⁄2" clearance
For help with any of these planning issues, at sides of unit
talk with knowledgeable dealers in your area.
They can help you choose the best fireplace
model for your situation and help you with Tools: Framing square, chalk line, plumb bob, circular saw, drill, 2-ft. level, hammer
venting and other considerations. And drill, masonry bit, masonry chisel, hand maul, adjustable wrenches, brush, nail set,
remember, all installation specifications are V-notched trowel, screwdriver, grout float, sponge.
governed by local building codes: Check with Materials: Fireplace unit, vent sections, termination cap, 1⁄2" copper tubing, 2 × block-
the building department to make sure your ing lumber, 2 × 4 lumber, construction adhesive, masonry fasteners, 3" wallboard
plans conform to regulations. screws, sheet metal plates, plastic sheet, scrap plywood, sheet metal screws, caulk,
5
⁄8" wallboard, wallboard finishing materials, high-temperature sealant, primer, paint,
mantle, wood-finishing materials, 6d and 4d finish nails, wood putty, ceramic tile, tile
spacers, latex tile adhesive, masking tape, grout, cap rail trim, buildup strips.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Gas Fireplace 385

Installing a Gas Fireplace
A B
2 × blocking
Header
Mark the frame’s outer edges onto the floor. Use a framing square to draw perpendicular Mark the stud layout on the bottom plates, then transfer the layout to the top plates, using
lines for the side walls. Measure and mark the front of the frame with a chalk line. Measure a plumb bob. Measure and cut studs to length. Attach two studs along the back wall with
diagonally from corner to corner to ensure the layout lines are square; adjust the lines, if nec- construction adhesive and masonry screws, or a powder-actuated nailer. Attach the remain-
essary. Transfer the lines from the floor to the ceiling joists with a plumb bob. If any top plates ing studs to the top and bottom plates with 3" screws or 8d nails.
fall between parallel joists, install 2 × blocking between the joists. Snap a line through the
marks to complete the top-plate layout. Measure up from the floor and mark the height of the header onto each stud at the side of
the front opening. Cut and install the header. Cut the cripple studs to fit between the header
Cut the bottom plates to size from pressure-treated 2 × 4s. Position the plates inside the lay- and the top plate. To allow easy access for running the vent pipe, do not install the cripple
out lines, and fasten them to the floor with construction adhesive and masonry screws, or a studs until after the vent is in place. Add any blocking needed to provide nailing surfaces for
powder-actuated nailer (see page 372). Cut the top plates from standard 2 × 4s. Attach them the tile trim.
to joists or blocking with 3" screws or 16d nails (drill pilot holes for screws). If the plates are
attached directly to parallel joists, add backing for attaching the ceiling wallboard.

C D
Vent pipe
Image:rn0692.153a.lay Vent collars
Bend out the nailing tabs at the sides of the fireplace unit. Slide the unit into the frame until Dry-fit the vent pieces. Fit the flared end of the first vent section over the vent collars on top
the tabs meet the framing, then center the unit within the opening. Level the unit from side of the unit, aligning the inner and outer pipes of the vent with the matching collars. Push
to side and front to back. Use thin sheet metal shims to make any adjustments. Add a little straight down on the vent until it snaps into place over the lugs on the outside of the collar.
construction adhesive to the shims to keep them in place. Measure at the sides and back of Pull up on the vent slightly to make sure it’s locked into place.
the unit to be sure the clearance requirements are met.
E F
Attach the 90° elbow so that the free end points toward the exterior wall. NOTE: Horizontal Remove the vent from the unit, and set it aside. Cover the fireplace with plastic and scrap ply-
vent runs must slope upward 1⁄4" per foot. If your vent includes additional horizontal sections wood to protect it from debris. Using a long masonry bit and hammer drill, drill a series of
leading from the elbow, adjust the vent pieces and elbow to follow the required slope. Trace holes just outside the marked circle, spacing them as close together as possible. Drill the holes
the circumference of the elbow end onto the wall. all the way through the block. Be patient; the block cavities may be filled with concrete.

Installing a Gas Fireplace (cont.)
G H Caulk
Adjustable
vent section Termination
cap
12" above
grade
Carefully knock out the hole, using a masonry chisel and a Reinstall the vertical vent section and elbow, locking the pieces together. Prepare the adjustable horizontal vent section by
hand maul. Work inward from both sides of the wall to measuring from the elbow to the termination cap. Adjust the section to length, and secure the sliding pieces together with
ensure a clean cutout on the wall surfaces. Smooth the hole two sheet metal screws. Install the horizontal vent section and termination cap, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
edges, test-fit the horizontal vent piece, and make any neces- Seal around the cap perimeter with an approved caulk. When the vent run is complete, fasten the fireplace unit to the fram-
sary adjustments. Uncover the fireplace, and clean up ing by driving screws through the nailing tabs. Install the cripple studs between the header and top plate.
around the unit.
I J
Shutoff
valve
Gas line
Valve removed from Valve removed from

compartment for clarity compartment for clarity
To make the gas connection, remove the lower grill from the front of the unit. Feed the gas Turn on the gas supply, and check for leaks by brushing on a solution of soapy water. If you
supply pipe into the access hole on the side of the unit, and connect it to the manual shutoff see bubbles, you have a leak. Turn off the gas, tighten the connection, then retest before pro-
valve. Tighten the connection with adjustable wrenches. ceeding.

K L
1
⁄8" gaps
Before installing the wallboard, test the unit. Prepare the firebox and light a fire, following the Fill the gap around the front face with a high-temperature sealant supplied (or recom-
manufacturer’s instructions. Let it run for 15–20 minutes while you inspect the flame and mended) by the manufacturer. Tape and finish the wallboard (see pages 231 to 233).
vent. Report any problems to the manufacturer. Turn off the fireplace and let it cool down.
Install 5⁄8" wallboard over the framing (see pages 224 to 233). To provide a space for sealant,
leave a 1⁄8" gap between the wallboard and the top and sides of the front face of the unit.
M N
Mantle
support cleat
To install the mantle, measure up from the floor and mark the height of the support cleat. Paint the areas of wallboard that won’t be tiled. Finish the mantle as desired, then fit it over
Use a level to draw a level line through the mark. Mark the stud locations just above the level the support cleat and center it. Drill pilot holes for 6d finish nails through the top of the man-
line. Position the cleat on the line, centered between the frame sides, and drill a pilot hole at tle, about 3⁄4" from the back edge. Secure the mantle to the cleat with four nails. Set the nails
each stud location. Fasten the cleat to the studs with screws provided by the manufacturer. with a nail set, fill the holes with wood putty, then touch up the finish.

Installing a Gas Fireplace (cont.)
O P
Dry-fit the tile around the front of the fireplace. You can lay tile over the black front face, but Mask off around the tile, then use a V-notched trowel to apply latex mastic tile adhesive to
do not cover the glass or any portion of the grills. If you’re using floor tile without spacer lugs the wall, spreading it evenly just inside the perimeter lines. Set the tiles into the adhesive,
on the side edges, use plastic tile spacers to set the grout gaps between tiles (at least 1⁄8" for aligning them with the layout marks, and press firmly to create a good bond. Install spacers
floor tile). Mark the perimeter of the tile area and make any other layout marks that will help between tiles as you work, and scrape out excess adhesive from the grout joints, using a small
with the installation. Pre-cut tiles, if possible. screwdriver. Install all of the tile, then let the adhesive dry completely.
Q R
Cap rail trim
Buildup strip
Mix a batch of grout, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Spread the grout over the Cut pieces of cap rail trim to fit around the tile, mitering the ends. If the tile is thicker than
tiles with a rubber grout float, forcing the grout into the joints. Then, drag the float across the trim recesses, install buildup strips behind the trim, using finish nails. Finish the trim to
the joints diagonally, tilting the float at a 45° angle. Make another diagonal pass to remove match the mantle. Drill pilot holes and nail the trim in place with 4d finish nails. Set the nails
excess grout. Wait 10–15 minutes, then wipe smeared grout from the tile with a damp sponge, with a nail set. Fill the holes with wood putty and touch up the finish.
rinsing frequently. Let the grout dry for one hour, then polish the tiles with a dry cloth. Let the
grout dry completely.

Building a Wet Bar
A wet bar typically consists of a small set of cabinets, a countertop, and requirements and the plumbing and wiring rough-ins needed for the
a sink—a convenient setup for serving drinks or snacks. But by bar. Consult the Basic Techniques section of this book for help with
expanding on this basic theme, you can build a bar that brings several planning and installing the frame and mechanical rough-ins. Also, the
amenities of a kitchen right into a family room or home theater. In Kitchens section has plenty of information about buying cabinets,
addition to providing a place to serve drinks, the new bar will be great countertops, and sinks.
for microwaving popcorn or grabbing a cold soda during halftime or After you’ve built the frame and completed the rough-ins, follow the
movie intermissions. step-by-step instructions to install the cabinets, shelves, countertop,
This project shows you how to build a wet bar that includes a coun- and sink, then complete the plumbing and wiring connections, and
tertop with plenty of room for appliances (and a nearby GFCI install the cabinet lights.
receptacle), an under-counter refrigerator/freezer, four full-size cabi- Careful placement of the bar will help the project go more smoothly.
nets, and a set of elegant glass shelves. At 2 × 61⁄2 ft., the bar can fit Wiring can go almost anywhere, but plumbing requires more consider-
easily into a corner or along a wall. Low-voltage halogen lights placed ation: To save time and money, locate the bar as close as possible to
under the cabinets provide task lighting while additional lights above existing plumbing lines.
accent the bar without brightening the room too much. Be aware that the fixtures and configurations in this project may not
To begin planning the project, review Making Preparations for a Wet meet code requirements in your area, so have your project plans
Bar, on pages 392 to 393. This gives you an overview of the framing reviewed by a local building inspector before you start.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Wet Bar 391

Making Preparations for a Wet Bar
through that framing. If the wall is load-
2 × 4 top bearing, be sure to follow local code require-
plate
ments for notching and boring into framing.
Before you start the framing, you’ll need to
plan the rough-ins. You’ll also need to know
the dimensions of the fixtures going into the
wet bar so you can determine the size of the
frame. Confirm with the manufacturers the
exact dimensions of the cabinets, appliances,
fixtures, and countertop you’ve chosen. Be
sure to add the thickness of the wallboard
when sizing the frame.
Building the frame itself is simple (see
2×4 drawing, left). Construct standard 2 × 4 parti-
stud tion walls, with single bottom and top plates,
using 16"-on-center spacing. Use pressure-
treated lumber for the bottom plates if the bar
is in the basement.
It’s very important that the framing of the
wet bar walls be square: The side walls must
be perpendicular to the back wall and parallel
to each other. This affects how well the cabi-
nets and countertop fit. Since the side walls
of the bar are short, you can use a framing
square to check them.
The wet bar in this project has a 12" space
above the wall cabinets, which is typical of
standard cabinets installed under 8-ft.-high
ceilings. You can leave this space open and use
Backing for it for accent lighting or as a display shelf, or
supply pipes enclose the space with a framed soffit, as is
common in many kitchens.
After the frame is built, complete the
Pressure- plumbing and electrical rough-ins (see draw-
treated 2 × 4 ing, page 393). First, install the drain and vent
bottom plate pipes for the bar sink. Run 11⁄2" drain pipe
from the sink location to the main stack or
other waste/vent pipe. In a basement, this
may require cutting into and breaking up a
section of the concrete floor (see pages 534 to
NOTE: Always shut off the water supply before working with plumb- 539). Set the height of the drain stub-out as required by local code
ing. Shut off electrical power at the main service panel and test for (typically 19" above the floor). Remember that most horizontal drain
power with a circuit tester before doing any electrical work. runs must have a downward slope of 1⁄4" per foot.
The frame requirements for your wet bar depend upon its location. If According to most codes, sinks must be ventilated within 31⁄2 ft. of
the back of the bar is set against a masonry wall, the bar will need a the fixture’s drain trap. If the waste/vent pipe is within this limit, it can
framed back wall for holding plumbing and wiring. If the bar is set serve as both drain and vent for the sink. Otherwise, you’ll need a 11⁄2"
against an existing framed wall, you may be able to run the service lines vent pipe that extends up and over to the nearest acceptable vent. The
392 Converting Basements & Attics/ Wet Bar

new vent pipe must extend upward a mini-
mum of 6" above the flood level of the sink
before turning to begin a horizontal run.
If new vent pipes are difficult or impossible
to install, check local code to see if you can 14/2
use an air admittance valve to vent the sink NM
12/2 cable
(see pages 436 to 437).
NM
To provide hot and cold water to the sink, cable
tap into the nearest water distribution lines
with 3⁄4 × 1⁄2" reducing T-fittings. Run 1⁄2" Lighting
Lighting box
supply pipes from the fittings to the sink loca- box
tion. Complete the supply stub-outs with an
angle stop shutoff valve on each supply pipe.
The stub-outs should be spaced about 8"
apart.
Install five electrical boxes: one for a single-
pole switch, centered 45" above the floor; one
for the refrigerator receptacle, centered 12"
above the floor; one for the over-counter GFCI
box
GFCI receptacle; and one for each cable lead- Vent pipe
ing to the low-voltage lighting transformers,
Switch
located just above the wall cabinets. box
Next, run cable to the boxes. Lighting for
the bar is supplied by one 14/2 cable that can
be branched from an existing 15-amp lighting
circuit. Run the cable to the box for the switch,
then run a branch cable from the switch box
to the box for the first transformer. Run
another cable between the transformer boxes.
To prevent circuit trippings that would shut 1
⁄2"
off the refrigerator, wire the two receptacles supply Standard
11⁄2" sink
pipes 20-amp
on a dedicated 20-amp circuit. Run 12/2 drain
receptacle box
cable from the service panel to the GFCI
receptacle box, then add a branch cable lead-
ing to the box for the standard 20-amp
receptacle.
Install metal protector plates at locations Tools: 4-ft. and 2-ft. level, chisel, drill, hole saw, utility knife, nail set, circular saw, com-
where pipes and cables pass through framing. pass, belt sander, jig saw and laminate blade, caulk gun, channel-type pliers, framing
After the framing and rough-ins have been square, wallboard finishing tools, combination tool (for wiring).
inspected and approved, cover the walls and
ceiling of the bar with 1⁄2" wallboard. Tape and Materials: 2 × 4 lumber, 16d common nails, 11⁄2" drain pipe and fittings, 3⁄4 × 1⁄2"
finish the wallboard so the surfaces are com- reducing T-fittings, 1⁄2" copper pipe, shutoff valves, escutcheons, electrical boxes, 12/2
pletely smooth and flat (see pages 224 to 233). and 14/2 NM cable, 20-amp GFCI receptacle, 20-amp receptacle, 15-amp single-pole
Apply primer, then paint the walls and ceiling switch, low-voltage lighting kit, wire connectors, coverplates w/knockouts, cable clamps,
the color of your choice.
1
⁄2" wallboard, wallboard finishing materials, primer, paint, cabinets, duct tape, 21⁄2"
Complete the wiring connections for all sheet metal screws, shelf brackets, glass shelves, cedar shims, construction adhesive,
devices except the low-voltage lights (see page toe-kick molding, finish nails, 3⁄4" plywood, wallboard screws, masking tape, silicone
397). Install each device in its electrical box, caulk, bar sink, faucet, sink-drain assembly, supply tubes.
and attach the coverplate.

Building a Wet Bar
A B
Channel
Transformer
Support
strip
Back of
cabinet
Light
fixture
Draw layout lines for both sets of cabinets. Use a level to determine if the floor is even. If not, Install the coverplates onto the lighting-cable boxes, feeding the cable ends through the
make a mark on the wall near the high point of the floor. Measure straight up from the high clamps in the coverplates and clamping them in place. Prepare the wall cabinets by installing
point and make a mark for the base cabinets at 341⁄2". Make a mark for the wall cabinets at the transformers and fixture wires. Mount one transformer on the top of each wall cabinet
84". Use the level to draw level lines through each of these marks to indicate the top edges of with screws. Create a recess for the fixture wires by chiseling a small channel into the back of
all four cabinets. Also mark the stud locations just above each level line. the support strips at the top and bottom of each wall cabinet. Connect the fixture wires to
the transformers, lay them in the channels, and hold them in place with tape.
C D
Hanging
strip
Have a helper position one wall cabinet against the back and side walls, aligning its top edge Measure up from the bottom edge on the inside face of each wall cabinet, and lightly mark
with the upper layout line. Drill pilot holes through the hanging strips inside the cabinet and the height of each shelf bracket. Make sure the marks are level. Drill holes for the bracket posts
into the wall studs. Fasten the cabinet to the wall with 21⁄2" sheet metal screws. Install the and install the brackets. Measure between the brackets to determine the length of the glass
remaining wall cabinet against the opposite side wall. shelves, then order the shelves from a glass dealer.

E F
To set the sink base cabinet, measure the locations of the plumbing stub-outs and transfer Set the sink base cabinet in place. Where necessary, slide tapered cedar shims under the cab-
the measurements to the back panel of the cabinet. Cut the holes for the stub-outs, using a inet’s bottom edges until the cabinet is aligned with the layout line and is perfectly plumb
drill and hole saw. If necessary, use a jig saw to cut the hole for the drain stub-out. from front to back. Apply a small amount of construction adhesive to the shims to hold them
in place. Fasten the cabinet to the wall studs, in the same manner as the wall cabinets. Install
the remaining cabinet against the opposite side wall.
G H
Support
cleat
Buildup
strips
After the adhesive on the shims has dried, cut the shims flush with the cabinets, using a util- Install a 3⁄4"-thick × 2"-wide plywood support cleat to the back wall between the base cabi-
ity knife. Install the toe-kick molding supplied by the manufacturer. Position the molding flush nets, keeping the cleat 3⁄4" above the layout line. Attach 3⁄4"-thick × 2"-wide plywood buildup
along the floor, with the ends flush with the cabinet sides. Drill pilot holes through the toe- strips to the front and back edges of the cabinets (these raise the countertop so that its front
kicks, and fasten them to cabinets with finish nails. Set the nails with a nail set. edge doesn’t overhang the drawer fronts). Drill pilot holes and fasten the strips flush with the
outside edges of the cabinet, using wallboard screws.

Building a Wet Bar (cont.)
I J
Set the countertop onto the cabinets. Check to see how the backsplash meets the back wall: Remove the countertop and sand the edge of the backsplash down to the scribed line. Use a
If there are any gaps over 1⁄16", scribe the backsplash with a compass. Set the compass to the belt sander, holding it parallel to the backsplash to prevent chipping.
width of the widest gap, then run it along the wall to transfer the wall contours onto the
backsplash.
K L
Fastening
bracket
Using the sink template, trace the sink cutout onto strips of masking tape on the countertop. Reset the countertop, and secure it in place by driving wallboard screws up through the fas-
Apply tape to the foot of a jig saw to prevent scratching. Drill a starter hole just inside the tening brackets in the cabinet corners (and the buildup strips) and into the particleboard core
cutting line, then complete the cutout with the saw. Use a laminate blade or a down-cutting of the countertop. Be careful not to puncture the laminate surface. Complete the countertop
blade, and cut from the finished side of the countertop. After cutting around each corner, installation by sealing all joints along the walls with a thin bead of silicone caulk.
drive an angled screw into the edge of the cutout piece, to keep the piece from falling before
the cut is complete, which could chip the laminate.

M Strainer Sink N
assembly
Shutoff
valve
Tailpiece
Supply tubes
Drain
stub-out
Trap arm
Trap bend
Install the faucet, attach the sink strainer assembly, and install the sink in the countertop, Install the glass shelves. Connect the circuit cables to the lighting transformers, following the
following the manufacturer’s instructions (also see page 508). Connect flexible supply tubes manufacturer’s instructions. Turn on the lights and position fixtures as desired. Turn off the
to the shutoff valves, and tighten the connecting nuts. Assemble the sink drain (see page 510). lights, and screw them to the cabinets. Staple the fixture wires to the bottoms of the cabinets.
Making the Electrical Connections

A B C
NOTE: Turn off the power at the main service panel, and use a circuit tester Connect the 20-amp refrigerator receptacle to the wires from the branch
to confirm the power is off before working with electrical cables. cable (photo B).
Connect the GFCI receptacle so that it protects itself but not the receptacle Install the single-pole switch with middle-of-run wiring configuration.
for the refrigerator. Pigtail the hot wires to the HOT LINE terminal, and pig- Attach one hot wire to each screw terminal, and join the neutral wires
tail the neutral wires to the WHITE LINE terminal. Pigtail the grounding together with a wire connector. Pigtail the ground wires to the switch
wires to the GFCI’s grounding screw (photo A). grounding screw (photo C).

Adding Recessed Kneewall Shelves
One way to utilize the space behind an attic opening. The drawings on page 399 show you species. You can build the face frame from
kneewall is to install custom-made storage all of the parts needed for the project, and the solid lumber that’s the same species as the
units. This recessed shelf cabinet provides over cutting list includes the materials and dimen- veneer, or choose a different wood that com-
nine sq. ft. of storage area without taking up sions of each part of the project shown. plements the color and grain of the cabinet
floor space. And it’s a simple project to build The type of lumber you use for your shelves material.
using standard materials and basic hand and depends on how you want to finish them. If
power tools. you’ll be painting the unit, build the cabinet
Support for the shelving cabinet is provided with A/B plywood, which has one side that’s Tools: Circular saw, 2-ft. level, drill,
by a framed rough opening (similar to a win- smooth and free of defects. For the face frame, framing square, bar clamps, nail set.
dow frame) and two pedestals made from use a quality-grade softwood, such as pine or Materials: 2 × 4 lumber; 3⁄4" and 1⁄4"
2 × 4s that sit below the cabinet behind the aspen, without knots or saw marks. plywood; 1 × 4 and 1 × 2 lumber; shims;
wall framing. It’s best to build the rough open- If you want to stain the wood or apply a 3", 2", and 1" wallboard screws; wood
ing and pedestals when you frame the kneewall clear topcoat to retain the natural color, use glue; 3" and 11⁄2" finish nails; fine-grit
(see pages 378 to 379).The main part of the finish-grade veneer plywood for the cabinet. sandpaper; wood putty; finishing
cabinet is made of plywood. A face frame Veneer plywoods are commonly available in materials.
made of solid lumber dresses up the front edges pine, birch, and oak. Specialty lumberyards
of the cabinet and hides gaps around the wall also offer veneers in maple, cherry, and other
398 Converting Basements & Attics/ Kneewall Shelves

D
G
E
F C
C
E
H
I
D
H
I
B
B G
Framing the Rough Opening

Cutting List
Key Part Material Pieces Size Front View Side View
A Header and sill 2 × 4s 1 each 301⁄2"
Top Top plate
B Pedestals 2 × 4s 2 14 × 15" plate
Header
C Sides ⁄4" plywood
3
2 19 × 281⁄2" Face
frame Rafter
D Top and bottom ⁄4" plywood
3
2 19 × 30" 301⁄2" 301⁄2"
E Shelves ⁄4" plywood

3
2 19 × 281⁄2"
Sill
F Back panel ⁄4" plywood
1
1 30 × 30"
Pedestal
G Rails 1×4 2 281⁄2"
H Stiles 1×4 2 351⁄2" Make the rough opening 1⁄2" wider and taller than the outer dimensions of the cabinet. For the
project shown, the rough opening is 301⁄2" wide × 301⁄2" tall. (Be sure to leave a few inches of
I Shelf rails 1×2 2 281⁄2" space between the back of the cabinet and the rafters.) Attach the side studs to the plates of
the kneewall, then install the sill and header, and cripple studs centered between the side studs.
Make sure the sill and header are level. Install the wallboard after the frame is completed.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Kneewall Shelves 399

Adding Recessed Kneewall Shelves
A B
Measure from the subfloor to the top of the sill to determine the height of the pedestals. The Cut the top, bottom, and side panels and the shelves, using the dimensions from the cutting
length of the pedestals should equal the depth of the cabinet minus 4". Build the pedestals list on page 399. If you’re building your cabinets to fit an existing opening, measure the width
with 2 × 4s, then set them on the floor behind the wall so their outside edges are flush with and height of the rough opening, and cut the side panels 2" shorter than the height of the
the sides of the rough opening and their tops are flush with the sill. Make sure the pedestals rough opening. Cut the top and bottom panels 1⁄2" shorter than the width of the rough open-
are level, and shim underneath them, if necessary. Attach the pedestals to the subfloor with ing, and cut the shelves 11⁄2" shorter than the length of the top and bottom panels. Use a
3" wallboard screws. framing square to ensure the shelf and panel edges are straight and square.
C D
Make marks on the inside faces of the side panels to indicate the top faces of the shelves. Then, Apply wood glue to the ends of the side panels. Position the top and bottom panels over the
draw lines on the outside faces of the panels, 3⁄8" below the inside marks, to indicate the cen- ends of the sides, and clamp them in place. Drill pilot holes through the top and bottom
ters of the shelves for fastening. Apply wood glue to the end of each shelf. Position the shelves panels and into the side panels, then fasten the pieces together with screws.
on the layout lines, and clamp together the assembly with bar clamps. Drill pilot holes
through the side panels and into the shelves, and fasten the pieces with 2" wallboard screws.
400 Converting Basements & Attics/ Kneewall Shelves

E F
Cut the back panel to size from 1⁄4" plywood. The back panel should match the outer dimen- Cut the stiles and rails to length from 1 × 4 lumber. Apply glue to the rails and shelf rails,
sions of the cabinet. Set the back panel over the cabinet so its edges are flush with the outsides then assemble the frame as shown on page 399 (position the top edges of the shelf rails so
of the cabinet. To ensure that the unit is square, adjust the cabinet to keep it flush with the they will be flush with the top faces of the shelves). Clamp the frame, and measure diagonally
edges of the back panel as you fasten. Drill pilot holes, and fasten the back panel to the top from corner to corner. If the frame is not square, apply pressure to one side until the mea-
and bottom panels and the shelves with 1" wallboard screws (do not use glue). surements are equal. Drill pilot holes, and toenail 3" finish nails through the ends of the rails
and into the stiles. Let the glue dry.
G H
Apply glue to the front edges of the cabinet. Position the face frame over the cabinet so the Set the unit into the wall and center it within the rough opening. Anchor the unit by drilling
inside edges of the frame are flush with the side, top, and bottom panels. Drill pilot holes and pilot holes and driving 3” finish nails through the face frame and into the wall studs, header,
fasten the frame to the cabinet with 11⁄2" finish nails, driven every 8". Set the nails with a nail and sill. Space the nails evenly, and set the nail heads with a nail set. Fill the nail holes with
set. After the glue dries, sand the exposed surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper, and finish the wood putty and touch up the finish as needed.
unit as desired.
Converting Basements & Attics/ Kneewall Shelves 401

Building Custom Light Boxes
These light boxes can supply plenty of light to a finished space without with a 5" or 6" crown molding should provide the desired effect. Another
taking up valuable headroom or floor area. An even greater feature is that option is to make boxes without using spacers (see page 405).
the boxes are custom-made: You can build them with 2-, 4-, or 6-ft. The wiring diagrams on page 403 show you a fixture connection and
light fixtures, and you can add one anywhere there’s an open area the basic wiring layout for multiple light boxes. Refer to the wiring sec-
between joists. tion of this book (see pages 100 to 145) for help with running the cables
Here’s how a light box is made: Two pieces of blocking are installed and making the electrical connections. Be sure to have all of the electrical
between two floor joists to form the box (see page 403). The wiring is work approved by a building inspector.
run from a wall switch into the box, then the inside of the box is
wrapped with 1⁄4" wallboard. After the wallboard is finished and painted,
one fluorescent light fixture is installed on each long side of the box, and Tools: Combination square, circular saw, drill, wallboard knives,
the wiring connections are made. Then, a piece of crown molding and a paintbrush, nail set, caulk gun.
spacer are cut to length to fit under each fixture. Reflective tape is Materials: 2 × lumber, 3" wallboard screws, 14/2 NM cable,
applied to the back of the molding, and the molding and spacers are cable staples, single-pole light switch, electrical box, wire con-
painted and fastened to the box sides. nectors, fluorescent light fixtures, 1⁄4" wallboard, corner bead,
Part of building a light box is finding an effective combination of wallboard tape & compound, paint, crown molding, foil duct
molding and spacer pieces. The molding must project far enough from tape, finish nails, caulk, wood putty.
the side of the box that it conceals the fixture and allows enough room
for changing the lamp. A spacer cut from standard 2 × lumber combined
402 Converting Basements & Attics/ Light Boxes

Light fixture
Cable 2 × block
from source
Cable to
next fixture
1⁄ 4"
Wallboard
Switch Cable staple
Light
fixture
Light
fixtures
Crown
molding
Spacer
14/2
NM cable
Joists
Converting Basements & Attics/ Light Boxes 403

Building Custom Light Boxes
A B
Mark the box locations by making Xs on the bottom edges of the joists to indicate the frame Cover all of the surfaces inside the box with 1⁄4" wallboard. Complete the wallboard installa-
blocks. The inside of the frames should be about 2" longer than the light fixtures. Use a com- tion over the main ceiling surface, using 1⁄2" or 5⁄8" wallboard, then finish the outside corners
bination square to extend the layout lines onto the faces of the joists. Cut each block to fit, of the box with corner bead (see pages 224 to 233). Tape and finish the inside corners of the
using the same size lumber as the joists. Set the blocks along the layout lines, and attach boxes. Paint the entire surface inside each box with a light-colored, semigloss latex paint.
them with 3” wallboard screws. Drill 5⁄8” holes through the end blocks and run wiring for the
boxes (see diagram, page 403).
C D
Install the fixtures in each box, positioning them so that the lamp will face the center of the Cut the crown molding to fit snugly between the ends of the boxes. Paint the front faces of
box. Center the fixtures from side to side, and fasten them to the joists with screws. Connect the molding, using the same paint used inside the boxes. Line the inside surfaces of each piece
the fixture wiring to the circuit cables, following the manufacturer’s instructions. of molding with reflective foil duct tape.
404 Converting Basements & Attics/ Light Boxes

E F
Determine the size of the spacers by positioning a piece of molding under a fixture with a Attach the spacers inside the boxes with wallboard screws. Make sure all spacers are level and
lamp installed. Hold the molding away from the box side until you find the desired position. at the same height. Attach the crown molding pieces to the front edges of the spaces with fin-
Then, measure between the molding and the box side to find the width of the spacer. Cut the ish nails driven through pilot holes. Set the nails with a nail set, and fill the holes with wood
spacers to width from 2 × lumber. Drill pilot holes for screws through the front edge of each putty. Seal any gaps at the ends of the molding with paintable caulk, then touch up the paint
spacer, then sand and paint spacers to match the molding. on the joints and nail holes.
Molding Variations With molding that’s wide enough to cover the fixtures, you For a look that’s more linear, use 1 × trim pieces instead of crown
can omit the spacers and attach the molding directly to the molding. Install nailers to the boxes, and attach the trim pieces
box sides (A). You can also add molding on the ends of the to the nailers (C). This trim style looks best when the ends of the
boxes, fitting the pieces together with coped joints (B). boxes are left open (D).
Side view (cutaway)
A Subfloor C
1 × trim
Joist Crown molding Nailer
Wallboard
View From below
B D
Converting Basements & Attics/ Light Boxes 405

D ESIGNING
K I T C H E N S & B A T H R O O M S
Planning Kitchen
& Bathroom Remodels . . . . . . . . . . 408
Designing Kitchens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
Determining Your Needs . . . . . . . . . 410
Selecting Kitchen Elements . . . . . . . 412
Creating Plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
The Universal Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . 418
Designing Bathrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
Determining Your Needs . . . . . . . . . 422
Selecting Bathroom Elements . . . . . 426
Creating Plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
The Universal Bathroom . . . . . . . . . 430
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms
Planning Kitchen & Bathroom Remodels

of your kitchen or bathroom, give your imagi-
nation permission to roam. Though you’ll
have to think about money at some point,
don’t worry about it just yet. Now is the time
to consider every imaginable possibility. Look
at friends’ kitchens, magazine kitchens, and
model kitchens. Also check the Internet; there
are numerous informative Web sites devoted
to kitchen and bathroom design.
When looking at photographs, look at both
the overall effect and the individual compo-
nents. Don’t let an odd color scheme scare you
away from a faucet that you love. Collect your
pictures, notes, and samples in a file folder.
As you brainstorm, also think about how
your kitchen or bathroom will be used over
the next five to twenty years. The needs of a
family with young children are much different
from the needs of a mature family whose chil-
dren are leaving the nest for college.
Codes & Standards

Creating plans for kitchens and bathrooms
can seem like an overwhelming challenge, but
fortunately there are guidelines available to
help you. Some guidelines are legal regulations
specified by your local building code and must
be followed exactly. Most codes have very spe-
cific rules for basic construction, as well as for
Kitchen and bathroom remodeling projects top Observe how you use the space. Keep a plumbing and electrical installation.
most homeowners’ wish lists. Because these notepad handy and jot down any problems Another set of guidelines, known as stan-
rooms play such substantial roles in our daily and annoyances that prevent you from being dards, are informal recommendations
lives, inconveniences such as outdated fixtures, as efficient or comfortable as you’d like to be developed over time by kitchen and bathroom
lack of storage space, or poorly designed lay- when using it. Also consider how the room is designers, cabinetmakers, and appliance and
outs can make these spaces inefficient to use or used during special occasions and what issues fixture manufacturers. These design standards
simply unattractive to look at. Or both. arise during those times. suggest parameters for good layout, and fol-
Whatever your reasons for remodeling, plan- And don’t forget the positives. What do you lowing them will help ensure that your
ning a kitchen or bathroom remodel is a big like about the space? What do you find that kitchen or bathroom is comfortable and con-
project. The following information will help works well or is pleasing? Make note of those venient to use.
guide you through the basic stages of planning items as well.
your new kitchen or bathroom. The introductions to “Designing Kitchens” Drawing Plans
on page 410 and “Designing Bathrooms” on Whether you’re doing the work yourself or
Getting Started page 422 provide additional considerations for hiring others, detailed plan drawings will help
A crucial first step toward your future satisfac- each type of space. you in several phases of the planning process:
tion is to carefully evaluate your present • Selecting cabinets, appliances, and fixtures
kitchen or bathroom and determine what Gathering Ideas to fit your kitchen or bathroom layout.
problems exist and what features are lacking. Once you have documented the pros and cons • Soliciting accurate work bids when
408 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Planning

negotiating with plumbers, electricians, and plans and elevation drawings. See pages 18 to Balancing what you want to spend with a
other subcontractors. 19 for more information on drawing plans. realistic estimate of costs gives you a working
• Obtaining a building permit at your local budget that should be quite accurate. You can
building inspections office. Creating a Budget later devise a final budget based on your
• Evaluating the work of contractors. If a car- A budget helps you control costs and prevent detailed drawing plans and the actual quotes
penter or plumber fails to meet your the project from spiraling out of control. The from contractors and vendors.
expectations, your plan drawings serve as first step is to establish an initial budget based
proof that the contractor did not complete on both the amount of money available to you Working with Professionals
the work as agreed. and how much you want to spend. Determine Many homeowners hire professionals to plan
When developing plan drawings, take as how much of your personal savings you can or complete the more complex or specialized
much time as you need and remain flexible. A afford to use, and whether you will borrow to aspects of their bathroom remodeling project.
professional designer might take 30 to 80 make up a shortfall. Contact several different These professionals generally fall into two
hours to come up with precise floor plans and banks, credit unions, and mortgage companies main categories: design professionals and
elevation drawings, so it’s not unreasonable to to compare interest rates for identically struc- building professionals. Pages 20 to 21 provide
allow yourself several weeks if you’re doing tured loans. Loan officers can give you more information on getting help from pro-
this work yourself. You will almost certainly detailed information about different loans and fessionals.
revise your plans several times before you set- options. Before hiring a designer or contractor, check
tle on a layout that works for you. And it’s not Next, make a list of all the fixtures, materi- references—including a project currently
uncommon for plans to undergo changes as als, and services you are considering using in under way, if possible. Never hire a contractor
you make decisions about appliances, fixtures, your project. Estimate the cost of each item simply because he or she is the low bidder.
and other materials. As you begin to research listed; then calculate the total project cost esti- Once you’ve made a selection, meet with the
the prices of cabinets and appliances and mate. Compare this total with your initial contractor again to make final arrangements
receive bids from contractors, you may well budget. If it is more than the funds you’ve and agree on a contract.
decide that it’s prudent to scale back for the allocated, decide if you are willing to spend
sake of your bank account, and these changes more to get what you want. If the cost is still
may require you to revise your plan drawings. too high, modify your initial plans based on
Your drawings should include both floor the estimated costs.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Planning 409

Designing Kitchens
A successful kitchen remodeling project com- would make your life easier. Think about compromise; there will be other places where
bines form and function. You want your new where you set down grocery bags as you come you can cut back.
kitchen to look beautiful, but you also want it through the door, where you stack dirty dishes, Next, consider the style of your home. Your
to serve your needs well. whether you can converse with family and new kitchen should enhance that overall style.
Begin by identifying what you hope to friends while you prepare dinner and clean up Pay special attention to the cabinets—they
accomplish. Do you simply want to make cos- after meals. play a large part in setting the style of kitchen.
metic changes, such as adding new wallpaper, This also is a good time to consider traffic After you’ve compiled your lists, consider
paint, countertops, appliances, or flooring? Or flow through the kitchen and surrounding consulting a kitchen designer. These profes-
do you want to reconfigure or add to the cur- rooms. Would moving a doorway allow better sionals can help you plan new cabinets,
rent kitchen space? access to the dining room? Would removing a enhance the kitchen space, and suggest add-
Consider how you use your kitchen. Do you wall provide better lighting or make it easier to ons that can make your life easier.
cook often? Do you entertain frequently? Do communicate with someone in the family room? Be realistic about how much of the work you
other activities take place in the kitchen, such After you’ve made your wish list, make a are able or willing to do. You can save money
as homework, laundry, or eating? realistic budget, then prioritize. Put your by doing some or all of the work yourself, but
Give yourself time to determine your needs. most important issues at the top of the list. remember that during construction, your
As you work in your kitchen, make a list of If you absolutely must have more storage kitchen will be unusable; plan alternative space
things that are inconvenient. Write down what or a place for the kids to do homework, don’t during remodeling.
Determining Your Needs

Your kitchen remodel will probably fall into
one of five categories, based upon your overall After
objective. A remodel can be as simple or as
complex as you desire, ranging from a cos-
metic makeover to a project that involves
removal and construction of both interior
and exterior walls.
Category 1: Cosmetic Makeover
The most basic level of remodeling is the
cosmetic makeover, in which you leave the
layout unchanged and simply replace the
surfaces. Typically this involves renewing
the walls, floors, cabinets, and countertops,
while retaining many of the existing appli-
ances and fixtures.
At first glance, the kitchen shown here looks
completely new—but looks are deceiving. The
only layout change is the addition of a section
of countertop and a cabinet to connect the
main counter to the range. The kitchen was
updated by refinishing the appliances, repaint-
ing the cabinets, replacing the countertop and
cabinet hardware, adding new wallpaper, and
retrimming the windows. Before
410 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Designing Kitchens

Categories 2-5: Changing Your Kitchen’s Layout
Building your dream kitchen may involve
more than simple cosmetic changes, and
there is a variety of ways to address a
kitchen’s flaws. You can simply reposition
appliances and eating areas, or change
doorways and add islands to redirect traf-
fic. More extensive layout remodeling
usually involves expanding the kitchen
area to other rooms of the home or
adding space by building an addition.
At right is a typical kitchen before layout Category 2: Reconfiguring the Basic Layout
remodeling. Counter space is lacking, traf- In this remodel, the basic footprint of the
fic flow is poor, and the kitchen work
kitchen is retained, but the appliances, fixtures,
areas are poorly organized. The layout
options that follow show various ideas for and eating areas are repositioned to create a
addressing these problems. more efficient layout. (Counter space is gained
by creating an L-shaped grouping.) This type
of project may require carpentry, electrical, and
plumbing work. The result is a more efficient
kitchen with relatively minor layout changes.
Category 3: Redirecting Traffic Category 4: Expanding Within Category 5: Expanding Outward

A more extensive layout change can help to If your kitchen is just too small, you can The most extensive kitchen remodel includes
redirect traffic moving through the kitchen. enlarge it by borrowing space from adjacent a new addition. This is a big job that usually
Often this involves adding or moving a door- rooms. Such a project involves moving or requires the help of many professionals,
way in a partition wall, as well as redesigning removing partition walls, in addition to re- including a general contractor. The result can
the basic kitchen footprint. The result is a arranging appliances and cabinets. The result be anything you desire, and may involve both
kitchen that feels bigger, works more effi- is a larger kitchen, a countertop eating area, exterior and interior changes to your home.
ciently with surrounding rooms, and perhaps significantly more in storage, and open access This type of project can completely change
offers extra island storage and counter space. to the adjoining room. the function and flow of your kitchen.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Designing Kitchens 411

Selecting Kitchen Elements
Countertops
Most homeowners choose plastic laminate, ceramic tile, or solid-
surface countertops for their kitchens, but there are many other materials
from which to choose, including wood, natural stone, and stainless steel.
Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each countertop
material, and remember that you aren’t limited to one type. You may
use a plastic laminate surface for most of your counters, for example,
then splurge for a small section of butcher block or marble.
Also consider the cost and ease of working with each type of
material. In general, plastic laminates offer the most versatility at the
lowest cost, and solid-surface materials offer fewer design options at
higher prices.
The countertop material you choose will affect the style of your
kitchen. Color, texture, and form each set a tone. If you are remodeling
with a particular style in mind, choose countertops consistent with that
style. Remember that countertops can be enhanced with molded edges,
color accents, and wood overlays.
Don’t forget to consider how you will use your countertops. If you
like to cook, you will demand a high level of performance and durabil-
ity from your countertops. Look for ease of cleaning and resistance to
stains, scorching, and scratches.
Cabinets
The choice to replace cabinets usually marks the difference between a
cosmetic makeover and a major kitchen facelift. Cabinets typically
reflect one of the most significant investments in a kitchen remodeling
project.
If your current cabinets provide adequate storage, you may consider
refacing or painting them rather than replacing them. However, if
your current cabinet layout is insufficient, new cabinets may be your
best option.
New cabinets will quickly change the look of your kitchen. There are
many styles to match your design ideas and many options to match
your storage needs. Door styles, woods, and finishes will play a large
part in setting the style of your kitchen. Remember to choose a style
compatible with the rest of your home, especially if your kitchen is
open to surrounding rooms.
Investigate storage options. It’s not necessary to fill every inch of wall
space with cabinetry to gain storage. Other options include island and
pantry storage, as well as slide-outs, partitions, and open racks.
The layout of your cabinets will be as important as the cabinets
themselves. Pay attention to door and drawer clearances, shelf height,
and appliance placement to ensure that your finished kitchen will
function as beautifully as you have planned.
412 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Kitchen Elements

Lighting, Electrical & Ventilation
Nearly all kitchen remodeling projects will enough electrical capacity in exisiting circuits
require some upgrade in lighting, electrical to power all the appliances. As you plan your
service, and ventilation. project, work with professionals to help
Insufficient lighting is a common problem evaluate your current electrical service and
in kitchens, especially task lighting for work determine your future electrical needs.
areas. Without it, you’re typically working in Many kitchens have inadequate ventilation.
your own shadow. Poor task lighting can be Some kitchens have a recirculating vent hood
improved by adding recessed ceiling lights, rather than the preferred outdoor venting,
track lighting, or under-cabinet light fixtures. while older kitchens may have no vent at all.
Poor ambient lighting can be remedied by As today’s houses become more airtight,
adding light fixtures, skylights, or windows. venting kitchen odors and moisture is an
Kitchens in older homes typically don’t have important consideration.
Fixtures & Appliances

If your major appliances and plumbing fixtures coolers, and built-in stereo and television
are more than fifteen years old, they are prob- units.
ably at the end of their useful lives and should Even if your appliances aren’t old, it may still
be replaced during your remodeling project. be worthwhile to upgrade them. As you plan,
Common plumbing and appliance improve- research current models to determine if an
ments include upgrading faucets, adding a investment in more energy-efficient appliances
water filtration system, installing additional will save you money in the long run.
sinks, and replacing a countertop microwave Many homeowners replace plumbing fix-
with a model that fits into a custom cabinet. tures and appliances simply for cosmetic
In addition to upgrading your major appli- reasons. However, if you have an energy-
ances, consider adding some of the many efficient, high-quality appliance that’s only
useful small appliances that are available, such a few years old, you might consider simply
as trash compactors, warming drawers, con- refinishing it or adding a decorative panel to
vection ovens, hot-water dispensers, wine update its look.
Flooring, Walls & Ceilings

Your kitchen floor, walls, and ceiling provide gets used—and cleaned—more than any other
Photo courtesy of Florida Tile Industries, Inc.

the backdrop for all the other elements of the room in the house, choose a floor covering
room. If you plan to add beautiful new appli- that is durable and easy to clean.
ances, counters, or cabinets, it’s almost always Sometimes all a kitchen needs is a fresh coat
worthwhile to make sure the old surfaces of paint or a new wallcovering to create an
won’t look dull in comparison. You may want updated appearance. Choose paint colors or
to replace the old surface coverings, or simply wallcovering patterns that complement the
renew them. other elements to maintain a consistent tone
Designers and remodelers routinely use throughout your kitchen.
flooring to alter the look of a room. Installing Kitchen ceilings are generally given a fresh
new flooring is an excellent way to transform coat of paint whenever the walls are refin-
a kitchen, since the floor is usually the largest ished; however, other options include
surface in the room. Because the kitchen floor beadboard, paneled, or metal-tile ceilings.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Kitchen Elements 413

Creating Plans
Design Standards
The goal of any kitchen layout is to make the each leg of the triangle should be between 4 than just a matter of surface area. The most
cook’s work easier and, where possible, to and 9 ft., and the total length of all the legs useful counter spaces are those next to the
allow other people to enjoy the same space should be less than 26 ft. The arrangement of main work areas and appliances. Table 1
without getting in the way. Understanding the points should discourage foot traffic (see page 415) lists the principal kitchen
accepted kitchen design standards can help through the triangle. Whenever possible, there appliances and the minimum recommended
you determine whether your present layout is should be a 4-ft. corridor between stationary countertop space next to each appliance.
sufficient or if your kitchen needs a radical elements, such as a perimeter counter and an Although standard dimensions are given for
layout change or expansion. The most impor- island; anything less than 3 ft. results in each appliance, the actual sizes of your appli-
tant standards are those that deal with the reduced efficiency. ances won’t necessarily affect the amount of
arrangement of the major work areas and the Of course, not all kitchens can accommo- countertop space needed.
sizes and placement of the countertops, appli- date what might be described as an ideal work In addition to the allowances given in the
ances, and cabinets. triangle, or even a triangle at all. Some table, a kitchen should have at least one
kitchens have four work stations rather than uninterrupted counter surface that’s a mini-
The Work Triangle three, while others, such as galley kitchens, mum of 3 ft. long, for a food preparation area.
The work triangle describes the arrangement position all the work areas along one wall. As for overall countertop space, follow these
of the three main work areas of a kitchen— The illustrations below show four of the recommendations: if your kitchen is less than
storage (refrigerator), food prep (oven and most common kitchen layouts. The important 150 sq. ft., you should have at least 11 linear
cooktop), and cleanup (sink and dishwasher). thing is not to slavishly follow a set of guide- ft. of countertop space; if your kitchen is over
Each work area represents a point on the tri- lines, but to create a plan that lets you work 150 sq. ft., try to include at least 161⁄2 ft. of
angle, and the distance between any two efficiently in your kitchen. For more informa- counter space.
points is called a leg. Although many sources tion regarding the work triangle, contact the Use Table 2 (see page 415) to calculate the
offer what may sound like rules for the work NKBA (see page 599). amount of space you’ll need for eating areas.
triangle, the concept is merely a planning tool Most eating surfaces are 30", 36", or 42" above
for balancing the relationship of the points to Countertops the floor. The horizontal space you need to
one another. Lack of countertop space is one of the most allow for each diner varies according to the
Guidelines offered by the National Kitchen common complaints people have about their height of the surface and the type of dining.
and Bath Association (NKBA) indicate that kitchens. But having adequate space is more
Common Kitchen Shapes L-shape U-shape
Large U-shape
Galley
414 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Kitchen Plans

Appliances that its doors open away from traffic areas and linear ft. of base cabinets, 151⁄2 ft. of wall cabi-
Your kitchen plan should allow space for all from other appliances. The Comments column nets, and 133⁄4 ft. of drawers or roll-out
of the major appliances, as well as for the safe in Table 1 contains additional recommenda- shelving. When calculating cabinet spaces,
and comfortable use of each unit. If you’re tions for the placement of each appliance. exclude any unusable corner space.
buying a new appliance and don’t know its The sizes of base and wall cabinets are fairly
size, you can use the standard dimensions Cabinets uniform among manufacturers, and unless
given in Table 1, below. Keep in mind that Most people would like to have unlimited you have your cabinets custom-built, they’ll
most appliances come in many different sizes, room for cabinets, but working them into lim- probably follow the standards shown in the
so you’re not necessarily limited to the dimen- ited kitchen space can be tricky. For kitchens chart on page 416. (If you’ve already selected
sions shown. with less than 150 sq. ft., designate a mini- new cabinets, refer to the product literature for
When placing the appliances in your mum of 13 linear ft. for base cabinets, 12 the actual dimensions.) Figure 1 on page 416
kitchen layout, be sure to leave a clear access linear ft. for wall cabinets, and 10 linear ft. of shows some general measurements for draw-
space of at least 30 × 48" in front of each drawers or roll-out shelving. For kitchens of ing or selecting standard base and wall
appliance. Also, position each appliance so 150 sq. ft. or more, plan a minimum of 16 cabinets.
Table 1: Standard Appliance Dimensions

Standard Minimum
Appliance Comments
Dimensions (width) Countertop Space
Refrigerator 30" to 36" 15" on latch side 12 cu. ft. for family of four;
2 cu. ft. for each additional person
Sink 27" single 24" on one side Minimum of 3" of countertop space
36" double 18" on other side between sink and edge of base cabinet
Range 30", 36" 15" on one side If a window is positioned above a
9" on other side cooking appliance, the bottom edge
of the window casing must be at least
Cooktop 30", 36", 42", 48" 15" on one side
24" above the cooking surface
9" on other side
Wall oven 24", 27", 30" 15" on either side Oven bottom should be between
24" and 48" above the floor
Microwave 19", 24", 30" 15" on either side When built-in, place low in wall cabinets
or just under counter
Residential Sprinkler Systems

Table 2: Eating-surface Standards As you plan your new kitchen, consider having a residential
sprinkler system installed. An increasingly affordable investment,
Height of Eating Surface sprinklers can cut your insurance rates by up to 15% and add
value to your home. Some codes already mandate their use.
30" 36" 42"
The system is connected to your home’s water supply using PEX
Min. width for 30" 24" 24"
pipe. In the event of a fire, the individual sprinkler heads acti-
each seated diner
vate only as needed, dousing the fire and preventing it from
Min. depth for each 19" 15" 12" spreading to other areas.
seated diner
For more information regarding residential sprinkler systems,
Minimum knee space 19" 15" 12" contact the National Fire Prevention Agency (nfpa.org).
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Kitchen Plans 415

Creating Plans (cont.)
Figure 1
Standard Cabinet Sizes
Base Cabinets (without countertop)
height: 34 1⁄2" Maximum
height 80"
depth: 23" to 24"
width: 9" to 48", in 3" increments
Wall Cabinets
height: 12", 15", 18", 24", 30", 33", 42"
depth: 12" to 15"
width: 9" to 48", in 3" increments 12-15"
Oven Cabinets
Minimum
height: 84", 96" 18"
depth: 24"
width: 27", 30", 33"
80"
Utility Cabinets
height: 84"
Sink
depth: 12", 24"
width: 18", 24", 36"
36"
Building Codes
If your kitchen remodel involves anything more than redoing the sur-
faces, chances are there are codes you’ll need to follow. Knowing a few
of the basic guidelines can help you understand and plan for the various
utilities that make a kitchen work. Be aware that the regulations listed
here are merely general guidelines. Consult your local building 31⁄2" min.
department for a complete and current list of codes and regulations 36" min.
for your area. 3" min.
Shown cutaway
24" for clarity
Basic Construction
Most building codes require that a kitchen have at least one window
that provides a minimum of 10 sq. ft. of glass surface. Some localities must be at least 3 ft. wide (called a three-o door) and interior passage
allow windowless kitchens as long as the kitchen is properly vented. doors between kitchens and other rooms must be at least 21⁄2 ft. wide
However, a windowless kitchen is less appealing than one that has win- (called two-six doors).
dows or other openings to the outdoors. Kitchen designers recommend
that kitchens have windows, doors, or skylights that together have a Electrical Service & Lighting
total glass surface equal to at least 25% of the total floor area. Nearly any kitchen remodeling project will require some upgrading of
Kitchens may be required to have at least two points of entry (keep in the electrical service. While your current kitchen may be served by a
mind that the traffic flow between them should not intrude on the single 120-volt circuit, it’s not uncommon today for a large kitchen to
work triangle). As a rule, exterior entry doors leading into a kitchen use as many as seven individual circuits. In some cases, the additional
416 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Kitchen Plans

load may mean you have to upgrade the main electrical service for the
entire house. Estimating Electrical Needs
To get an idea of how extensive your electrical improvements need
to be, compare your current service with the code guidelines in The National Electrical Code requires that all kitchens meet the follow-
Estimating Electrical Needs (right). Depending on the size of your ing electrical guidelines:
project, you may want to call in an electrician to assess your current • Wall outlets spaced no more than 12 ft. apart.
service and review your planned changes. • Countertop outlets spaced no more than 4 ft. apart.
In regard to lighting, the National Electrical Code requires that a • GFCI (Ground-fault circuit-interrupter) protection for all countertop
kitchen have a wall-switch controlled general lighting circuit (120-volt, receptacles.
15-amp) that operates independently from circuits that control appli-
• At least two 120-volt, 20-amp circuits: one to supply power for the
ances or counter receptacles. For reasons of safety, comfort, and aesthe- refrigerator and the other for plug-in countertop appliances.
tics, you may also want to include plentiful task lighting, including
• Dedicated circuits for each major appliance. Install a 120-volt,
hanging lights, under-cabinet fixtures, or recessed lighting to illuminate
20-amp circuit for a built-in microwave and a 15-amp circuit for
each work area as well as decorative lighting fixtures for highlighting the dishwasher and food disposer. An electric range, cooktop, or
attractive cabinets or other features. wall oven requires a dedicated 240-volt, 50-amp circuit.
After you estimate how much electrical service your new kitchen will
Plumbing need, compare it to your existing service by examining your service
If your new layout calls for relocating the sink, or if you’re adding an panel. If the panel has a number of open slots, your electrician
additional sink or dishwasher, you’ll need to extend your water supply should be able to add additional circuits easily. If it doesn't, your
and drain and vent piping. new kitchen may require an upgraded service panel.
Extending plumbing lines for a new kitchen generally is easy and
inexpensive, but there are some exceptions. If your plumbing is more
than twenty five years old, your costs may go up, depending on the
type and condition of your existing pipes. It’s a good idea to check out
your old plumbing. Even if the new kitchen requires expensive replace-
ment plumbing, it makes sense to have it done during a remodel, and it
may prevent a disaster down the road. (Older plumbing may also have
drain traps and vents that don’t conform to current codes, and your
plumber may recommend new runs.)
Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC)

If you’re planning a cosmetic makeover or simple layout changes, you
can probably continue to use your existing registers or radiators. But if
the new kitchen will be substantially larger or if the ratio of glass
surfaces will be greater, you may need to expand the heating and cool-
ing systems. This can be as simple as extending the ducts a few feet or
as complicated as installing a new furnace to handle the additional
space.
To determine your kitchen’s HVAC needs, consult a professional.
Although the code requirements are quite simple, HVAC contractors
use a complicated formula to determine the equipment necessary to
meet the code requirements.
For proper ventilation, your cooktop should be equipped with an
electric vent hood to exhaust cooking fumes and moisture from the
kitchen. Since the capacity of the vent is governed by code, check with
a building inspector before selecting a vent hood. Many island cook-
tops use downdraft fans and ducts that are routed through the floor,
which is a more costly and complicated job. Cooktops must have vents to remove moisture and smoke created by cooking. Better ventila-
tion systems exhaust air to the outdoors rather than recirculate it through the kitchen.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Kitchen Plans 417

The Universal Kitchen

In most homes, the kitchen is the center of activity, so remodeling side-by-side refrigerator has low shelving that allows children to
your kitchen for universal use does more than just prepare your serve themselves, whereas a freezer-below model might require
home for the future; universal design can improve circulation in your them to rely on parents for a snack or a glass of juice.
kitchen, enable family members to be more independent, and mini- As universal design becomes more mainstream, kitchen planners
mize the effort required for everyday tasks. and manufacturers are responding with improved product design and
Much of universal kitchen design comes from commonsense an emphasis on universal use. This translates into better ideas and
ideas. For example, a cook need not stand for every stage of meal more options for the consumer. The following guidelines and sug-
preparation; a lowered section of countertop with open space under- gestions will help you make your new kitchen a lifespan kitchen.
neath enables a person to sit while mixing, chopping, or stirring. A
Layout & Space Planning Designing your kitchen around a clear, between the kitchen and dining area short-
The layout of your kitchen should follow circular space at least 5 ft. in diameter will ens the distance that food and dishes have to
basic kitchen design standards and code provide room for a wheelchair to maneuver be carried during mealtimes.
requirements (see pages 414 to 417), but and for people to walk through the kitchen
providing additional floor area and work sur- while others are cooking. Flooring
faces are key to creating a universal space. To provide work spaces for a variety Since most kitchen work is performed while
A kitchen should have enough room that of users, include an island or peninsula in standing, choose cushioned flooring materials,
two or more people can use it at once and your plan, as well as countertop surfaces at such as cork or vinyl, to minimize leg fatigue.
through-traffic doesn’t interrupt workflow. various heights. A window or pass-through To increase safety, choose a nonslip, matte
Universal Kitchen Elements & Clearances
NOTE: the arrangement of

elements does not reflect
an actual layout.
Side-door oven Pull-down

with open Pull-out surface Cooktop with open shelving
Pull-out surface space below space below
Trash/
36" Cabinet recy-
30" to 34" Fold- 32" with 32" cling 32"
away drawers bin
doors
36" 36" 36"
418 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Kitchen

finish that reduces glare and prevents falls. • Replace knobs with magnetic touch ample surface area at varied heights to
Neutral colors help reduce eyestrain, and latches or loop handles so cabinets can be accommodate everyone in your home.
adding a contrasting border around the opened with a simple push or pull. Supplement countertop space with work
room’s perimeter can help people with vision • Include at least one rolling-cart cabinet surfaces that pull out of cabinets.
limitations mark boundaries. that can be pulled away to open up space • Install countertops at varied heights: 36"
under a low countertop for a seated cook. high for standing users, 30" or 32" high for
Cabinets • Equip corner cabinets and/or pantries with seated users, and 42" high for taller users;
A universal kitchen should have ample stor- lazy Susans. also consider adjustable countertops.
age space in a variety of forms and places so • Include a tall, narrow space with slots that • Include at least one 32" countertop work-
that some storage is within the reach of each provide space to store cookie sheets and space, open underneath, for seated users.
user. When planning for cabinets, keep in trays vertically. • Finish the floor underneath countertops
mind that countertop heights are largely • Add wall cabinets with pull-down shelf with open space below, to ease wheelchair
determined by the cabinet heights. Following systems. movement.
are some considerations for wall and base • Consider installing wall cabinets at a • Include heat-resistant fixed or pull-out
cabinets and for pantries. height of 12" to 15" above the countertop, surfaces next to the oven, microwave,
• Select base cabinets with pull-out drawers rather than the standard 18". (Make sure cooktop, sink, and refrigerator.
for better access to items in the back. appliances will fit under lower cabinets.) • Consider these countertop features: a
• Choose a sink-base cabinet that is open • Choose pantries with door-shelving, as color-contrasted edge makes it easier for
underneath, with fold-away doors to well as shallow, adjustable shelving inside. people with vision limitations to see coun-
accommodate a seated user. tertop boundaries; a lipped edge contains
• Consider base cabinets with high toe-kick Countertops spills; and rounded edges are safer than
spaces for wheelchair footrests. Plan countertop space carefully to include sharp ones.
Cabinets
with
pull-down
shelving
Pantry
with lazy
Susan
Pull-out
surface
Raised
dishwasher Rolling
38" cart
Side-by-side 36"
32" Fold- Cabinet refrigerator
away with drawers
doors
36"
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Kitchen 419

The Universal Kitchen

Lighting & Electrical Sink & Food Disposer
While all well-designed kitchens combine natural, overhead, and There are many sinks and faucets available that are well-suited for
task lighting to create safe, welcoming space, specific lighting universal kitchens. A shallow sink, for example, enables a user to
needs vary, depending on the kitchen’s size, color, and surfaces. wash lettuce or dishes while sitting down. A lever-handled faucet is
A kitchen with light-colored walls and cabinets, for example, easier for everyone to use and allows a cook with dirty hands to turn
requires less lighting than one with dark surfaces. Glossy surfaces on the water using an elbow.
reflect light well but can often cause glare. Contrasting colors • Mount the sink at a height of 32" or install a height-adjustable sink.
help define boundaries, but stark patterns can be confusing to • Install a removable cabinet or fold-away doors under the sink
the eye; finding a balance is important. to create for seated users an open space that is at least 32" wide
Install task lighting at all work centers, and avoid creating shad- (36" preferred). Insulate hot water pipes and install a protective
owed areas. Under-cabinet lights are helpful for countertop tasks panel to protect legs and knees from burns.
and can offset shadows. • Consider a shallow sink (5" to 6 1⁄2" deep instead of the standard
Having several electrical receptacles in easy-to-reach places 7" to 8"), which will leave room for knee space and will make
makes a kitchen versatile and safe. Having extra countertop reaching dishes easier.
(backsplash) receptacles means you don’t have to shuffle small • Choose a sink that drains at the rear, to maximize knee space
appliances each time they’re used. But backsplash receptacles can (check whether it requires special plumbing).
be hard to reach for seated users, so consider alternative locations, • Install pot-filler faucet that allows a cook to fill pots with water
as well: the end of an island or peninsula, behind a false drawer- while on the cooktop.
front, or underneath wall cabinets. • Select a single-lever or hands-free faucet.
Check the local building code • Place a faucet and a disposal switch no more than 21" from the
regarding receptacle placement, countertop edge.
and keep in mind that some loca- • Install a hot water dispenser at the sink so coffee, tea, and soup can
tions may give children access to be prepared without turning on the stove.
receptacles.
This compact kitchen has open spaces beneath the sink and cooktop hidden by fold-away doors. Pull-out surfaces provide temporary workspaces that are
lower than countertops and perfect for seated users.
420 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Kitchen

• Look for cooktops with staggered burners,

so a cook needn’t reach across one to use
another.
• Consider radiant or halogen cooktops that
glow when hot, or magnetic induction cook-
tops that remain cool while they cook to
help those with vision limitations.
• Install a tilted mirror above the cooktop so
shorter or seated cooks can see food as it
cooks.
Other Appliances
Appliances such as refrigerators, dishwashers,
and microwaves can be very convenient, but
An oven door that opens to the side provides safe and
only if they are well-designed and in good
easy access for a variety of cooks. locations. Both tall and short people should be
able to reach refrigerated items, and everyone
• Position the sink near the cooktop to in the home should be able to empty the dish-
make it easier to transfer pots filled with washer without a struggle.
hot water. Consider installing a pot-filler • Consider a side-by-side refrigerator unit,
faucet at the cooktop. which allows shorter people to use the bot-
tom portions and taller people to use the top Side-by-side refrigerator/freezers provide storage space
Oven & Cooktop portions. at a wide range of heights.
For reasons of safety and convenience, take • Look for refrigerator models that have pull-
care when choosing an oven and cooktop. It out shelves or lazy Susans and ice and water with a side-opening door and controls
is important that the oven can be opened dispensers on the outside. that are clearly marked and easy to oper-
safely and that heavy pots can be removed • Consider adding refrigerated drawers so ate; models that mount in wall cabinets
from the cooktop easily. All users must be fresh foods can be placed near work areas. place the food above some users’ heads,
able to reach the controls on both appli- • Select a countertop-type microwave oven which is awkward and can be dangerous.
ances. • Place the microwave on a 32"-high coun-
• Install a wall-mounted oven with its base tertop to make it accessible to everyone,
at a height of 30" to 34". including children and seated users.
• Choose an oven with a side-opening door • Put your microwave next to a pull-out
to eliminate reaching over a hot door to surface or countertop, where heavy or hot
remove dishes. dishes can be placed.
• Plan for a 30 × 48" clear approach space • Install the dishwasher between the sink
in front of the oven. and a countertop that is open under-
• Install pull-out work surfaces next to the neath, so a seated person can load the
oven and cooktop for placing hot dishes. dishwasher from the sink and unload
• Choose an oven and cooktop with con- dishes directly into their cabinets.
trols on the front or side of the unit, with • Consider installing the dishwasher 6"
a maximum reach of 21" to those dials. higher than standard height to minimize
All dials should be clearly marked and bending and to allow ample toe-kick
easy to grasp and read. space; this works best in a kitchen with
• Consider smooth cooktops, which make it Front-mounted controls make this cooktop easy and safe to sufficient countertop space at the 32" and
easier to place and remove pots and pans. operate, and its smooth cooking surface simplifies cleanup. 36" heights.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Kitchen 421

Designing Bathrooms
Bathroom remodeling projects are high on Next, think about your bathroom’s style. Keep a notebook of ideas. A bathroom
many homeowners’ wish lists. Whether you Since the bathroom is one of your home’s remodeling project involves lots of planning;
repair a leaky faucet, redesign the layout of most-used spaces, it should blend in with the thinking about what you want is the first big
fixtures, or tear out and start over, a bathroom overall style of your home. Look through step. However, for most people, a bathroom
remodeling project should make your bath- magazines for style ideas. Attend home shows. remodeling project is determined not only by
room more efficient and comfortable. Before Visit open houses. You will find design ideas wants, but also by budget and space.
you rush out to buy new fixtures or flooring, that range from American, English, and You may want to build a grand master bath-
however, consider three elements of your new French Country to Contemporary, Southwest, room with whirlpool and sauna, but think you
bath: type, style, and color. and Colonial. can afford only to update your large master
What type of bathroom are you remodeling Then think about color. Your choices of bath in its current location. Before you give up
or building? The three basic types are family bathroom type and style often will influence on your dream of an ideal bath, consider your
baths (both large and small), master (or luxury) your choice of color. But consider the overall options. It is often possible to take space from
baths, and half (or guest) baths. Each has its style of your home when choosing colors for adjacent rooms and closets. And you can save
own requirements for space, fixtures, layout, fixtures, flooring, and lighting. Remember that money by reusing functional fixtures, shelving,
and color. To help you determine what type of children grow up, and that you can grow tired storage, and lighting from your current bath-
bath you want, consider who uses the bath- of trends. Try to think about how the bathroom. You also can create the feel of a new
room and how often, where the bathroom will room will function in years to come. The best bathroom by rearranging fixtures and improv-
be located, what features you want most, and option may be to choose neutral-colored fix- ing the room’s traffic flow. A professional
whether the bathroom must be accessible to tures and tile, and then add color accents with bathroom designer may be able to help you
someone with physical limitations. wallpaper, paint, or towels. consider your space in new ways.
Determining Your Needs

Before you can put your plans on paper, you
must determine your needs. A bathroom is
divided into three activity areas: the toilet, the
sink, and the shower/tub. Successful bath
design considers the relationship of these areas,
allowing for accessibility and safety. The type
of bathroom you want will influence your deci-
sions on layout, fixtures, and space.
Half Baths
Also called powder rooms or guest baths, half
baths are small rooms designed for visitors to
use. They can be as small as 20 sq. ft. and typi-
cally feature only a toilet and vanity. When
designed as a guest bath, they sometimes
include a shower and are located near the guest
bedroom. When a shower is added, these
rooms require more space and are called three-
quarter baths.
Half baths are frequently located near
entrances or entertainment areas in a home. It’s
often best to have their doorways open into
hallways, rather than dining rooms, living
422 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bath Needs

rooms, or other public areas.
Since these rooms are small, they can
be finished with smaller fixtures and finer
materials. They typically have little storage
space and may have pedestal sinks and
wall mirrors.
Family Baths
The family bath is a busy place, often located
near the sleeping areas in a home. It is used by
more than one family member, and it must
provide storage for toiletries, towels, and
cleaning supplies. It features at least one sink,
one toilet, and a shower and tub.
The typical family bath can fit in a 5 × 7-ft.
area. A larger bath may allow room for extra
features, such as two sinks or separate shower
and tub areas, to accommodate several users at
a time. A small family bath may conserve
space by combining the tub and shower,
incorporating recessed shelving, and using
space-efficient fixtures and storage cabinets.
Fixtures and finishes should be low-mainte-
nance and highly durable items, such as
ceramic tile and enameled sinks.
Bathrooms for children have specific consid-
erations: they must be safe for children to use
unsupervised and should be easy to adapt as
the children grow. Features that make daily
hygiene easier and safer for children include
single-handle faucets with scald guards,
adjustable shower heads, safety plugs, grab
bars, smaller toilets, lowered sinks, and vani-
ties with built-in step stools.
Master Baths
A master bath, or luxury bath, is a sanctuary
for the owners of the house. It is a separate
bath, usually connected to the master bed-
room. A master bath may have separate
activity centers containing features such as a
whirlpool tub, shower, partitioned toilet, and
multiple sinks and vanities.
These bathrooms are usually quite large.
They often feature luxuries, such as saunas
and steam rooms. The fixtures and finishing
materials generally include ceramic tiles, cus-
tom cabinets, and upscale accessories.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bath Needs 423

Determining Your Needs (cont.)
Categories of Bathroom Remodeling
Will it be enough to simply install a new faucet, recaulk the tub, and
paint the walls? Or is this the time to make some real changes—add
that second sink, install the whirlpool you’ve dreamed about, or even
annex that hallway linen closet and make the bathroom bigger? These
options actually represent the three distinct levels of bathroom remod-
eling: makeover, layout change, and expansion.
Each level of remodeling—from modest makeover to extravagant
expansion—can be applied to any size or type of bathroom. For our
example we have chosen a small, narrow bathroom—a fairly common
layout found in hundreds of thousands of homes. The illustrations and
floor plans on these pages provide examples of how this bathroom
might be remodeled.
Category 1: Cosmetic Makeover

A makeover involves cosmetic changes and replacement of fixtures or
accessories. Generally speaking, it is less expensive to make cosmetic
changes than to make structural changes.
You can accomplish a lot with a makeover. You can bring a room to
life with new colors, patterns, and textures; silence leaky, dripping fix-
tures forever; or improve safety with grab bars and nonskid surfaces. You
can also increase storage space with efficient vanities, medicine cabi-
nets, or linen closets, and you can sweep away condensation and odors
with a new vent.
In our example makeover, we’ve replaced the toilet so it matches the
tub, changed the window treatment from curtains to shutters, painted
the walls, and added a sliding shower door. We’ve also installed a new
vanity cabinet, countertop, faucet, and mirror. With the addition of
wainscoting, we’ve made the room appear slightly wider.
Keep in mind, however, that cosmetic changes do not solve structural
problems. You may be able to
make a space feel larger through
decorating techniques, but it
won’t be any easier for two people
to actually use the room at the
same time.
424 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bath Needs

Category 2: Layout Change
A layout change represents the
next step in remodeling complexity—
rearranging some or all of the fixtures
within the existing space.
You can often make significant
improvements in the way a bathroom
can be used by changing the layout.
Adding a second sink or enclosing the
toilet in its own private niche, for
example, might make it possible for
two people to comfortably use a bath-
room previously suited only for one.
A room the size of our example bath-
room offers limited ways to change the
layout. One possibility, assuming this is
not the primary bathroom, is to convert it into a more useful half bath
for guests. In our drawings, the room dimensions haven’t changed, but
we’ve removed the tub, relocated the sink, and redecorated in a contem-
porary style.
A layout change is a substantial undertaking, usually involving exten-
sive mechanical work, as well as general demolition, reconstruction, and
finishing of surfaces. Because of this, costs are higher than with a sim-
ple makeover.
Category 3: Expansion
If you need an overall bigger
bathroom, expansion may be
the best option. Each house
has its own opportunities for
finding extra space, but pos-
sibilities include closets that
adjoin baths, small bedrooms
no longer needed for their
original purpose, or any
adjoining room that could
sacrifice some of its space.
In this example we’ve
added about 30" to the width
of the room by annexing an
adjacent closet. By doing
this, it’s now possible to make this room workable as a shared bath with
a double vanity. Additional storage space has also been gained.
Adding space to your bathroom increases the cost by more than just
the additional square footage of the room itself. When you annex other
spaces, the construction process is no longer contained within one
room. For example, if you patch over a hallway closet door in order to
incorporate the closet space into the new bathroom, you’ll also have to
paint the hallway and repair the flooring and trim.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bath Needs 425

Selecting Bathroom Elements
Bathtubs & Showers
Because a bathtub or shower is often the largest component in a bath-
room, its placement anchors the room. There are a wide variety of
shapes, sizes, and materials available to accommodate just about any
situation.
When it comes to bathtubs, there are three basic types: attached-
apron (the most common), deck-mounted, and freestanding. When
selecting a tub, consider not only the style of the tub or how much
space you have available, but also that it is comfortable for the primary
user. Many modern designs feature gentle curves, sloping backs, and
armrests for more comfortable bathing. You can also find recessed tubs
for standard-size alcoves equipped with whirlpool jets.
Showers are either combined with tubs or are stand-alone units. Tub-
shower combinations use space efficiently and are generally cheaper to
install than separate tub and shower units. Stand-alone showers are
ideal for bathrooms that don’t have enough space for a full-size tub, or
as a supplement in master bathrooms. Stand-alone showers are no
longer purely utilitarian spaces: ultraluxurious showers with multiple
massaging showerheads are available.
Bathtubs and showers can be purchased in prefabricated units or cus-
tom-built to your specifications. Whichever type you choose, make
sure to purchase well-made faucets and showerheads that fit with the
style and materials you’ve selected.
Sinks & Vanities

From highly decorative to purely functional, sinks are available to
match almost any space, budget, and taste. Like bathtubs, sinks are
available in a variety of materials, including porcelain, enameled cast
iron, cultured marble, solid-surface material, and stainless steel. They
are categorized by the method in which the fixture is mounted.
Wall-mounted sinks are bolted to the wall, taking up little space.
Because there’s no vanity, they are a good option for utility or half baths
where exposed plumbing and limited storage are not serious drawbacks.
Similarly, pedestal sinks are wall-mounted without a vanity; however,
the basin rests on a decorative pedestal that partially hides the plumb-
ing hookups. They’re an attractive choice for small guest bathrooms
where space is at a premium.
Countertop sinks include sinks that fit into a countertop cutout or
that are formed as an integral part of the countertop. There are several
different installation options, including self-rimming, undermounted,
flush-mounted, and integral sinks. Make sure to select a countertop mate-
rial that will accommodate the installation method of your chosen sink.
Countertop sinks are often combined with vanity cabinets. When
shopping for a vanity, investigate storage amenities such as divided and
undivided drawers, adjustable and fixed internal shelving, built-in ham-
pers, roll-out shelves, and tip-out sink fronts.
426 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bathroom Elements

Toilets
As with most other bathroom fixtures, toilets vated tank and flushes the bowl clean.
have changed significantly in recent years. Pressure-assisted toilets are more expensive
New designs are efficient, durable, and less than standard toilets, but they can reduce your
susceptible to clogs. Most importantly, federal water usage significantly. The flush mecha-
law now requires that new toilets consume no nism boosts the flushing power by using either
more than 1.6 gallons per flush, less than half compressed air or water pumps.
the volume used by older styles. Toilets are available in a variety of styles and
Gravity-assisted toilets are still the standard. colors to suit almost any decor. Two-piece
While newer units have taller tanks and units are the most widely available, though
steeper bowl walls to increase the effects of single-piece units, as well as specialty toilets
gravity, they still operate under the same basic with elongated or elevated bowls, are increas-
principle—water rushes down from the ele- ing in popularity.
Lighting & Ventilation

In many older homes, bathroom lighting and of qualified dealers and designers in your area.
ventilation are inadequate and in dire need of Good ventilation protects surfaces from
improvement. moisture damage, deters the growth of mold
An effective lighting plan combines different and mildew, and keeps air fresh. Vents with
types of lighting to ensure personal safety, pro- electric fans are required by code in any bath-
vide ambience, and permit various uses of the room without natural ventilation. The best
space. Provide general lighting with overhead plan is to install a vent with an exhaust system
fixtures that illuminate the entire room. Use that carries stale or moist air outdoors.
task lighting to brighten specific task areas. Vent fans are rated by the number of cubic
Finally, install accent lighting to highlight feet per minute (cfm) they can handle.
points of decorative interest, such as architec- Purchase a unit with a rating at least 5 cfm
tural details or a piece of artwork. higher than the cubic footage of your bath-
For help with designing your lighting plan, room. Avoid units that recirculate air—they’re
visit a showroom or contact the American cheaper and less complicated to install, but
Lighting Association (see page 599) for a list they are not adequate for this important task.
Home Spa & Luxury Amenities

More and more homeowners are installing In addition to these amenities, many home-
luxury amenities to bring the therapeutic ben- owners design their luxury bathrooms with
efits of a trip to the spa right into their own plenty of additional space to house exercise
homes. Master and luxury bathrooms are equipment or electronics to contribute enter-
becoming larger in size to create a space that tainment, ambience, and convenience.
offers total relaxation and an escape from the Keep in mind that luxury amenities, as well
rest of the world. as their installation, are typically expensive.
Whirlpools have become a standard fixture Before settling on any particular item, do your
in master baths, however there are a variety of homework—many of these items require extra
other amenities attracting interest for their plumbing and wiring, and may need to be
health benefits, such as shower towers, body installed by a professional so as not to void the
spa systems, saunas, and steam showers and manufacturer’s warranty.
steam rooms.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bathroom Elements 427

Creating Plans
Because so many activities occur in such a relatively small space,
remodeling a bathroom requires careful planning and design. The Bathroom Design Standards
National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) publishes a list of
bathroom design standards to help people plan rooms that are safe and For more information regarding bathroom design, contact the
accessible to all users. Some of the basic standards are listed in the NKBA (see page 599).
chart at the right. More standards specific to universal design can be
found on pages 430 to 433. • Plan doorways with a clear • Include storage for soap,
Your bathroom probably won’t conform to all of the recommended floor space equal to the door’s towels, and other items near
standards, but they can help guide your overall plan. What your plan width on the push side and the shower and located 15" to
must include is everything prescribed by the local building codes. Page greater than the door’s width 48" above the floor. These
429 lists many of the common code issues for bathrooms. on the pull side. should be accessible to a per-
The following steps outline the next phase of your project—drawing NOTE: Clear floor spaces son in the shower or tub.
plans and obtaining permits. within the bathroom can
overlap. • Provide windows and sky-
Sketch a plan lights equal in area to at least
Draw your bathroom’s floor plan and wall dimensions to scale (see • Design toilet enclosures with 10% of the floor area of the
pages 18 to 19). Buy or make your own templates for the existing and at least 36 × 66" of space; room.
new fixtures, and experiment with different layouts for the room. include a pocket door or a
Remember to plan for both fixtures and plumbing lines. door that swings out toward • Illuminate all activity centers
Keep in mind that moving existing fixture drains can add significantly the rest of the bathroom. in the bathroom with task
to the cost and difficulty of the project. You can keep down costs by and ambient lighting.
locating new plumbing near existing waste-vent lines. • Install toilet-paper holders
approximately 26" above the • Provide a minimum clearance
Check the building codes floor, toward the front of the of 15" from the centerline of
Consult the local building codes regarding all aspects of the project, toilet bowl. sinks to any sidewalls.
particularly the minimum clearances required around fixtures. If you Double-bowl sinks should
find you’re short on space, consider compact fixtures and built-ins to • Place fixtures so faucets are have 30" clearance between
gain room. The floor space needed for the room will largely depend on accessible from outside the bowls, from centerline to cen-
the types and number of fixtures included. tub or shower. Add antiscald terline.
devices to tub and sink
Create a scale drawing & materials list faucets (they are required for • Provide access panels for all
Detail your initial plans, adding all dimensions and fixtures for your shower faucets). electrical, plumbing, and
new bathroom. Include all plumbing, wiring, and HVAC connections. HVAC systems connections.
When you have completed your drawing, make a materials list, set a • Avoid steps around showers
timetable, and decide what work you will complete yourself and what and tubs, if possible. • Include a ventilation fan that
work you will hire out. exchanges air at a rate of
• Fit showers and tubs with eight air changes per hour.
Have your plans reviewed safety rails and grab bars.
Take your completed drawings to the local building department for • Choose countertops and
review. Getting input early in the process will save you time and • Install shower doors so they other surfaces with edges that
expense later. The building inspector will check your plans and materi- swing open into the bath- are smoothed, clipped, or
als list and recommend changes. You also will need to obtain one or room, not the shower. radiused.
more building permits, which include scheduled inspections. Typically,
the building inspector will review your work after the framing and • Use tempered glass or
rough-in plumbing and wiring are completed and again when the job another type of safety glass
is done. for all glass doors and
partitions.
428 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bath Plans

Building Codes
The following are some of the most • Toilets must be centered 15" from side • Supply lines that are 1⁄2" in diameter can
common building codes for bathrooms. walls and tubs, with 21" clearance in front. supply a single fixture, or one sink and
Contact your local building department one toilet. A 3⁄4"-dia. supply line must be
for a list of all codes enforced in your area. • New and replacement toilets must be used to supply two or more fixtures.
low-flow models.
• The minimum ceiling height in bath- • Waste and drain lines must slope 1⁄4" per
rooms is 7 ft. (Minimum floor area • Shower stalls must be at least 30 × 30", foot toward the main DWV stack to aid
is determined by clearances around with 24" of clearance in front of shower flow and prevent blockage.
fixtures.) openings.
• Each bathroom must be wired with at
• Sinks must be at least 4" from side walls • Steps must be at least 10" deep and no least one dedicated 15-amp circuit. Only
and have 21" of clearance in front. higher than 71⁄4". light fixtures, receptacles, and vent fans
without heating elements can be powered
• Sinks must be spaced 4" away from • Faucets for showers and combination by this circuit.
neighboring sinks and toilets, and 2" tub-showers must be equipped with anti-
away from bathtubs. scald devices. • All receptacles must be GFCI-protected.
• There must be at least one permanent

light fixture controlled by a wall switch.
15" from center
of toilet to near-
est wall or fixture • Wall switches must be at least 60" away
from bathtubs and showers.
• Toilet, shower, vanity, or other bathroom

compartments must have adequate light-
ing.
• Light fixtures over bathtubs and showers

21" clearance in front must be vapor-proof, with a UL rating
of sinks and toilets for wet areas.
• Vanity light fixtures with built-in electri-

24" clearance for cal receptacles are prohibited.
shower door
• Whirlpool motors must be powered by

dedicated GFCI-protected circuits.
Shower base at
least 30 × 30" 4" min.
between sinks
Follow minimum clearance and size guidelines when

4" min. planning locations of bathroom fixtures. Easy access to
from wall fixtures is fundamental to creating a bathroom that is
comfortable, safe, and easy to use.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Bathroom Codes 429

The Universal Bathroom

Maximizing safety and space is a goal for anyone remodel- switches, and electrical receptacles.
ing a bathroom, but these are critical elements in a While many fixtures on the market today are designed
universally designed bathroom. Sufficient space, proper for universal use, they are not yet standard, so discuss your
lighting and flooring, and, of course, safe and accessible project with dealers and salespeople to find the best prod-
fixtures all are essential features. Additional considerations, ucts to meet your needs.
such as a second sink and a section of countertop that is Grab bars are important safety features for universal
open underneath, can make your bathroom accessible to a bathrooms. If the wall framing in your bathroom will be
wide range of users. exposed during the remodel, add backing or blocking for
The universally designed bathroom has a few basic char- installing grab bars now and in the future. See pages 582
acteristics. The layout provides room for maneuvering and, to 583 for more information on installing grab bars.
if possible, enough space for two people to use the bath- Additional safety features include antiscald faucets for the
room at once; there’s nonslip flooring and plenty of shower and sink, and a telephone for making distress calls.
lighting; fixtures have sufficient approach space—from As you plan, keep in mind that a lifespan home should
either side, if possible; and seated users have easy access to have at least one centrally located full bathroom on every
all fixtures and amenities, such as cabinets, mirrors, floor; this is a necessity for those with limited mobility.
Bathroom Layout Door 36"

(32" min.)
Approach spaces (patterned areas) and clearances shown here include some
ADA guidelines and recommendations from universal design specialists.
30" min.
21" max.
Tub
60" min.
40" max. Sink

29" 30"–32" 30" Radius
min.
32"
min.
Sink & Vanity 66" min. front approach
56" min. side approach 18"-wide surface
18" min.
Toilet 48" min. Shower
48" min.
18"
48" from
15" max.
wall to 17"–18" 18" min. 36" min.
38"–48" center
18"
Shower Toilet Floor plan
430 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Bathroom

Space Planning distance of 21" from the front edge of the • Ask your flooring dealer about the coeffi-
Plan your bathroom around a clear space countertop. cient of friction for each type of flooring
that’s 5 ft. in diameter—the minimum area • Install as many receptacles as is practical, (it should be at least .6).
needed for a wheelchair to turn around. If to prevent clutter and the need to move • Avoid shiny tile and other polished flooring.
this is impossible, plan for a minimum small appliances. • Apply rubber backing to area rugs to pre-
space of 30 × 48" beyond the door; although • Add an efficient vent fan to reduce mois- vent slips and falls. Remove rugs in
this space is not enough for a wheelchair to ture and eliminate slippery floors. wheelchair-accessible bathrooms.
turn around in, it provides easy passage for Consider a vent fan with a heating lamp • Make sure all bathroom floors are level.
a wheelchair. To help make bathroom fix- to help keep the bathroom warm for
tures accessible to everyone, plan the those sensitive to temperature changes. Doors
following approach spaces, keeping in mind • Install a telephone near the tub or shower • Ensure that bathroom doors have a clear
that the spaces for individual fixtures may to allow persons to call for help in the opening at least 32" wide; 36" is preferred.
overlap: case of a fall or injury. • Install hinged doors so they open into the
• Sink: 30"-wide × 48"-deep space in front. hallway; this will ensure access to some-
• Toilet: 48"-wide × 66"-deep space for Flooring one in the bathroom who needs
front approach; 48"-wide × 56"-deep • Consider all available nonslip options assistance.
space for side approach. Position the before choosing a floor covering for your • Consider a pocket door for your bath-
toilet so that its center is 18" from walls, bathroom. Some good options are textured room: with appropriate hardware, pocket
fixtures, or vanities, on either side. ceramic tiles, indoor/outdoor carpeting, doors are easy to use, and they save a lot
• Tub: 30 × 60" space along the side of the and nonslip vinyl. of space.
tub. Include an 18"-wide surface on at
least one end of the tub, but preferably
at both ends. This surface enables a
bather to sit and swing his or her legs
into the tub.
• Shower: 48"-wide × 36"-deep space in
front of shower opening.
Lighting & Electrical

• Design your bathroom with a combina-
tion of natural and artificial light,
keeping in mind that short and seated
users must be able to open windows.
• Install plenty of task lighting in addition
to ambient overhead lighting. Include
task lighting above and beside the sink
and mirror, and in and around the bath
and shower; these are areas where acci-
dents can occur easily. Avoid large
shadowed areas, which can be visually
confusing.
• Consider motion- or voice-activated
light fixtures.
• Install electrical receptacles in walls at a
minimum height of 18". Install coun- Roll-in shower designs, roll-under sinks, grab bars, adjustable slide-bar showers, and open floor space make bathing
tertop receptacles at a maximum easier for people with disabilities.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Bathroom 431

The Universal Bathroom

Bathtub & Shower • Choose a tub with a seat at least 15" deep,
Perhaps the most important aspect of a uni- whether built-in or pull-down type.
versally designed bathroom is a safe bathing Consider ease of use for a person transfer-
environment. Tubs and showers must be ring from a wheelchair to and from the tub.
easy to get in and out of, and sitting should • Consider special options for tubs, includ-
be an option in a shower. All controls and ing a door that enables users to enter and
hardware should be within easy reach. exit safely, or a built-in seat that adjusts
Many tubs and showers available today are hydraulically.
designed for universal use, so check out sev- • Look for tubs with soft edges and sur-
eral options before choosing a unit. faces.
• Include handholds or grab bars in and • Install rod-mounted curtains.
around your tub and shower. • Consider a stand-alone shower with no
• Offset water controls toward the room so threshold or a removable one. A slightly
they are reachable from outside the tub or sloping floor will direct water to the drain. This universally designed sink has a hands-free faucet
shower as well as from inside. • Install a pull-down or permanent seat in a and a square front that makes the basin more accessible.
stand-alone shower
at a height of 18".
The seat should be cabinets can greatly improve the functional-
at least 15" deep. ity of your bathroom. Keep in mind that
• Choose a shower seated users will need access to mirrors and
that has a minimum medicine chests.
36"-wide opening • Install countertops at varied heights: 34"
and 36 × 36" base. to 36" for standing users and 30" to 32"
• Mount shower for seated users. Lower countertops
controls at a height should be open underneath or have
of 38" to 48"; offset removable base cabinets that can be rolled
them toward the out of the way.
room. • Provide a clear space that is 29" high and
• Install a hand- 32" to 36" wide under sinks and sections
held shower head of lowered countertops designed for
mounted on a verti- seated users.
cal slide bar, so its • Install one sink at 30" to 32" high for a
height is adjustable. seated user, if possible.
The bottom end of • Finish the floor under removable base
the bar should be no cabinets.
higher than 48" • Select sinks that are shallow at the front
from the floor. and deepen toward the drain. These
provide space for the legs of a seated user,
Sink & Vanity yet are deep enough for rinsing clothes.
Adding varied • Insulate exposed pipes underneath sinks.
countertop heights • Choose antiscald faucets with hands-
A tilted mirror allows seated or short users to easily see themselves. and removable base free, single-lever, or push-button controls.
432 Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Bathroom

Height-adjustable countertops and movable base cabinets make this vanity area a versa- This 17"-high toilet is flanked by adjustable grab bars that
tile workspace. Grab-railings provide support and convenient places for hand towels. can be flipped up and out of the way when not in use.
For added control, choose faucets with Toilet • Height-adjustable toilets also are avail-
pull-out sprayers. Generally, there are fewer choices for uni- able, as well as height-adjustment
• Make sure that the sink drain plug is versally designed toilets than for other adapters for standard toilets. Power-lift
accessible and easy to operate. fixtures, but toilet design is important. seats are another option for those with
• Install faucets within 21" of the front Safety and ease of use are the two main fac- limited leg or joint strength.
edge of the countertop. tors to consider. The toilet should be an • Wall-mounted toilets are another
• Position mirrors so their bottom edges appropriate height for all users, including option. These can be installed at any
are no more than 40" above the floor. those who may be transferring from a height, provide additional clear floor
Also, consider a tilting or adjustable mirror. wheelchair. Be sure to install grab bars space, and are easy to clean.
• Replace drawer and cabinet knobs with around each toilet. • Toilets with integral personal hygiene
loop handles, or install magnetic touch • Standard toilets with 15"-high seats may systems can help people with physical
latches that require a simple push to open. be too low for a person with limited leg disabilities maintain independence.
• Consider pull-down shelves for your strength or for transferring from a wheel- • Toilets with tanks that mount in the
vanity and ensure that there is sufficient chair, while a 19" toilet may be too high wall behind the toilet can improve clear-
storage within the reach of short or for a short person. For most users, a ance in smaller bathrooms.
seated users. height of 17" to 18" is best.
Designing Kitchens & Bathrooms/ Universal Bathroom 433

R E M O D E L I N G
K ITC H E N S
Plumbing a Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436
Wiring a Remodeled Kitchen . . . . . . . . 448
Painting Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
Refacing Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
Installing New Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . 466
Installing Swing-up, Glide-out
& Pull-down Shelves . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478
Installing a Post-form Countertop . . . . 482
Building a Custom Laminate
Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486
Building a Stainless Steel Laminate
Countertop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
Making Custom Wood
Countertop Edges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
Building a Ceramic Tile Countertop . . . 496
Tiling a Backsplash. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
Installing a Kitchen Sink . . . . . . . . . . . 508
Installing a Kitchen Faucet & Drain . . . 509
Installing a Water Filtration System . . 511
Installing a Food Disposer . . . . . . . . . . 512
Installing a Vent Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514
Installing an Island Vent Hood . . . . . . 518
Remodeling Kitchens
Plumbing a Kitchen
Plumbing a remodeled kitchen is a relatively tures or on branch vent lines to service up to Create a detailed plumbing plan to guide your
easy job if your kitchen includes only a wall six fixtures (check local codes). While both work and help you obtain the permit that will
sink. If your project includes an island sink, applications reduce the amount of vent piping be required.
the work can become more complicated. and the number of roof penetrations required, The project overview presented here
An island sink poses problems because there keep in mind that any vent system containing includes a double wall sink and an island sink.
is no adjacent wall in which to run a vent AAVs must also have at least one standard The 11⁄2" drain for the wall sink connects to an
pipe. Traditionally, this meant that you would vent outlet to the exterior of the building. existing 2" galvanized iron auxiliary waste-vent
need to use a special plumbing configuration Before you install any AAVs, check with your stack; since the trap is within 31⁄2 ft. of the
known as a loop vent, however in many parts local plumbing inspector; AAVs are allowed in stack, no vent pipe is required. The drain for
of the country a far simpler solution exists: the all 50 states, but some municipalities may not the island sink uses a loop vent configuration
air admittance valve (AAV). have updated their codes. If AAVs are restricted connected to an auxiliary waste-vent stack in
Most AAVs on the market today are grav- in your area, you’ll need to install a loop vent. the basement. Keep in mind that your pipe and
ity-activated. The negative pressure in the Each loop vent situation is different; your fitting sizes, fixture layout, and pipe routing
drainpipe created by draining opens the valve configuration will depend on the location of will vary according to your circumstances.
and lets air enter to equalize the pressure in existing waste-vent stacks, the direction of the This project overview is divided into three
the line. When draining is completed, the floor joists, and the size and location of your phases:
valve closes to keep sewer gases from escaping. sink base cabinet. Consult your local plumbing • Installing DWV pipes for a wall sink
AAVs can be installed to vent individual fix- inspector for help in laying out the loop vent. (pages 439 to 441)
• Installing DWV pipes for an island sink
(pages 441 to 445)
• Installing new supply pipes (pages 446 to
447)
The tips presented on pages 437 and 438 pro-
vide general considerations to help you plan
your kitchen plumbing project. Refer to pages
66 to 99 for more information on basic
plumbing materials, installation techniques,
Wall sink and plumbing code requirements.
Auxiliary
waste-vent Shown
stack cutaway
Auxiliary
waste-vent
Drain pipe stack
Vent pipe
Island sink
Air admittance valves (AAVs) are designed to allow air into

Our demonstration kitchen uses common plumbing configurations for a double wall sink and an island sink. Each sink is the DWV system when needed, but to keep it from exiting
served by an auxiliary waste-vent stack. when the system should remain closed.
436 Remodeling Kitchens/ Plumbing

Tips for Plumbing a Kitchen
Insulate exterior walls if you live in a region with freezing temperatures in winter. Where Use existing waste-vent stacks to connect the new DWV pipes. In addition to a main waste-
possible, run water supply pipes through the floor or interior partition walls, rather than vent stack, most homes have one or more auxiliary waste-vent stacks in the kitchen that can
exterior walls. be used to connect new DWV pipes.
Loop vent
Vent stack
8" min. Vent pipe
Drain trap
Cleanout
Drain pipe
Use a loop vent to vent a sink when there is no adjacent wall to house the vent pipe. The drain is vented with a loop of pipe By installing an air admittance valve (AAV) at your island
that arches up against the countertop and away from the drain before dropping through the floor. The vent pipe then runs sink, you can do away with almost all of the complicated
horizontally to an existing vent pipe. In our project, we have tied the island vent to a vent pipe extending up from a base- loop-vent plumbing. Before installing an AAV, check with
ment utility sink. NOTE: Loop vents are subject to local code restrictions. Always consult your building inspector for guidelines your local plumbing inspector to ensure AAVs are approved
on venting an island sink. by code in your area.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Plumbing 437

Remodeling Kitchens
Tips for Plumbing a Kitchen (cont.)
Use 2 × 6 studs to frame "wet walls" when constructing a new kitchen. The extra dimension Install control valves at the points where the new branch supply lines meet the main distri-
provides more room to run drain pipes and main waste-vent stacks, making installation bution pipes. By installing valves, you can continue to supply the rest of the house with water
much easier. while you are working on the new branches.
Consider the location of cabinets when roughing in the water supply and drain stub-outs. Create access panels so that in the future you will be able to service fixture fittings and shut-
Read the layout specifications that come with each fixture or appliance, then mark the drain off valves located inside the walls. Frame an opening between studs, then trim the opening
and supply lines accordingly. with wood moldings. Cover the opening with a removable plywood panel the same thickness
as the wall surface; finish the panel to match the surrounding walls.

Installing DWV Pipes for a Wall Sink
A B
Determine the location of the sink drain by marking the position of the sink and base cabi- Mark a route for the new drain pipe through the studs behind the wall sink cabinet. The drain
net on the floor. Mark a point on the floor indicating the position of the sink drain opening. pipe should angle 1⁄4" per foot down toward the waste-vent stack.
This point will serve as a reference for aligning the sink drain stub-out.
C D
Use a right-angle drill and hole saw to bore holes for the drain pipe (see page 96 for hole Measure, cut, and dry-fit a horizontal drain pipe to run from the waste-vent stack to the sink
sizes). On non-load-bearing studs, such as the cripple studs beneath a window, you can notch drain stub-out. Create the stub-out with a 45° elbow and 6" length of 11⁄2" pipe. NOTE: If the
the studs with a reciprocating saw to simplify the installation of the drain pipe. If the studs sink trap in your installation will be more than 31⁄2 ft. from the waste-vent pipe, you will need
are load-bearing, however, you must thread the pipe though the bored holes, using couplings to install a waste T and run a vent pipe up the wall, connecting it to the vent stack at a point
to join short lengths of pipe as you create the run. at least 6" above the lip of the sink.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing DWV Pipes for a Wall Sink (cont.)

E F
Remove the neoprene sleeve from a banded coupling, then roll the lip back and measure the Attach two lengths of 2" pipe, at least 4" long, to the top and bottom openings on a
thickness of the separator ring. 2" × 2" × 11⁄2" waste T. Hold the fitting alongside the waste-vent stack, then mark the stack for
cutting, allowing space for the separator rings on the banded couplings.
G H
Use riser clamps and 2 × 4 blocking to support the waste-vent stack above and below the new Slide banded couplings onto the cut ends of the waste-vent stack, and roll back the lips of the
drain pipe, then cut out the waste-vent stack along the marked lines, using a reciprocating neoprene sleeves. Position the waste T assembly, then roll the sleeves into place over the plas-
saw and metal-cutting blade. tic pipes.

I J
Slide the metal bands into place over the neoprene sleeves, and tighten the clamps with a Solvent-glue the drain pipe, beginning at the waste-vent stack. Use a 90° elbow and a short
ratchet wrench or screwdriver. length of pipe to create a drain stub-out extending about 4" out from the wall.
Installing DWV Pipes for an Island Sink

A B
90° elbow
45° elbow 45° elbow
Position the base cabinet for the island sink, according to your kitchen plans. Mark the cabi- Create the beginning of the drain and loop vent by test-fitting a drain trap, waste T, two 45°
net position on the floor with tape, then move the cabinet out of the way. elbows, and a 90° elbow, linking them with 2" lengths of pipe. Measure the width of the loop
between the centerpoints of the fittings.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing DWV Pipes for an Island Sink (cont.)
C D
Reference line
Draw a reference line perpendicular to the wall to use as a guide when positioning the drain Position the loop assembly on the floor, and use it as a guide for marking the hole locations.
pipes. A cardboard template of the sink can help you position the loop vent inside the outline Make sure to position the vent loop so the holes are not over joists.
of the cabinet.
E F
Use a hole saw with a diameter slightly larger than the vent pipes to bore holes in the sub- Reposition the base cabinet, and mark the floor of the cabinet where the drain and vent pipes
floor at the marked locations. Note the positions of the holes by carefully measuring from the will run. (Make sure to allow for the thickness of the cabinet sides when measuring.) Use the
edges of the taped cabinet outline; these measurements will make it easier to position match- hole saw to bore holes in the floor of the cabinet, directly above the holes in the subfloor.
ing holes in the floor of the base cabinet.

G H
Measure, cut, and assemble the drain and loop vent assembly. Tape the top of the loop in In the basement, establish a route from the island vent pipe to an existing vent pipe. (In our
place against a brace laid across the top of the cabinet, then extend the drain and vent pipes project, we are using the auxiliary waste-vent stack near a utility sink.) Hold a long length of
through the holes in the floor of the cabinet. The waste T should be about 18" above the floor, pipe between the pipes, and mark for T-fittings. Cut off the plastic vent pipe at the mark, then
and the drain and vent pipes should extend about 2 ft. through the floor. dry-fit a waste T-fitting to the end of the pipe.
I J
Hold a waste T against the waste-vent stack, and mark the horizontal vent pipe at the cor- Fit a 3" length of pipe in the bottom opening on the T-fitting dry-fitted to the vent pipe, then
rect length. Fit the horizontal pipe into the waste T, then tape the assembly in place against mark both the vent pipe and the drain pipe for 45° elbows. Cut off the drain and vent pipes
the waste-vent stack. The vent pipe should angle 1⁄4" per foot down toward the drain. at the marks, then dry-fit the elbows onto the pipes.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing DWV Pipes for an Island Sink (cont.)
K L
Extend both the vent pipe and drain pipe by dry-fitting 3" lengths of pipe and Y-fittings to the Cut a horizontal drain pipe to reach from the vent Y-fitting to the auxiliary waste-vent stack.
elbows. Using a level, make sure the horizontal drain pipe will slope toward the waste-vent at Attach a waste T to the end of the drain pipe, then position it against the waste-vent stack,
a pitch of 1⁄4" per ft. Measure and cut a short length of pipe to fit between the Y-fittings. maintaining a downward slope of 1⁄4" per ft. Mark the waste-vent stack for cutting, above and
below the fittings.
M N
Cut out the waste-vent stack at the marks. Use the T-fittings and short lengths of pipe to Slide banded couplings onto the cut ends of the waste-vent stack, then insert the plastic pipe
assemble an insert piece to fit between the cutoff ends of the waste-vent stack. The insert assembly, and fit the coupling sleeves and bands over the pipe ends. Gently tighten the cou-
assembly should be about 1⁄2" shorter than the removed section of stack. pling clamps.

O P
At the open inlet on the drain pipe Y-fitting, insert a cleanout Solvent-glue all pipes and fittings found in the basement, beginning with the assembly inserted into the existing waste-vent
fitting. stack, but do not glue the vertical drain and vent pipes running up into the cabinet. Tighten the banded couplings at the
waste-vent stack. Support the horizontal pipes every 4 ft. with strapping nailed to the joists, then detach the vertical pipes
extending up into the island cabinet. The final connection for the drain and vent loop will be completed as other phases of
the kitchen remodeling project are finished.
Q R
After installing flooring and attaching cleats for the island base cabinet, cut away the floor- Install the base cabinet, then insert the drain and vent pipes through the holes in the cabi-
ing covering the holes for the drain and vent pipes. net floor and solvent-glue the pieces together.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing New Supply Pipes
A
Drill two 1"-diameter holes, spaced about 6" apart, through the floor of the island base cabinet and the underlying subfloor. Position the holes so they are not over floor joists. Drill similar
holes in the floor of the base cabinet for a wall sink.
B C
Turn off the water at the main shutoff, and drain the pipes. Cut out any old water supply Dry-fit T-fittings on each supply pipe (we used 3⁄4" × 1⁄2" × 1⁄2" reducing T-fittings). Use elbows
pipes that obstruct the new pipe runs, using a tubing cutter or hacksaw. In our project, and lengths of copper pipe to begin the new branch lines running to the island sink and the
we are removing the old pipe back to a point where it is convenient to begin the new wall sink. The parallel pipes should be routed so they are between 3" and 6" apart.
branch lines.

D E
Solder the pipes and fittings together, beginning at the T-fittings. Support the horizontal pipe Extend the branch lines to points directly below the holes leading up into the base cabinets.
runs at least every 6 ft. with copper strapping attached to joists. Check local code for exact Use elbows and lengths of pipe to form vertical risers extending at least 12" into the base
pipe support intervals. cabinets. Use a small level to position the risers so they are plumb, then mark the pipes
for cutting.
F G
Fit the horizontal pipes and risers together, and solder them in place. Install blocking between Solder male threaded adapters to the tops of the risers, then screw threaded shutoff valves
joists, and anchor the risers to the blocking with pipe straps. onto the fittings.

Remodeling Kitchens
Wiring a
Remodeled Kitchen
In most cases, adding new circuits during a
remodeling project will help your kitchen bet- Circuit #7
14/2 cable
ter serve your needs. In this project overview,
you’ll learn how to plan for the many power
requirements of the modern kitchen, and how
to install circuits and fixtures for recessed
lights, under-cabinet lights, and a ceiling light
controlled by three-way switches. You’ll also
learn how to install circuits and receptacles
for a range, microwave, dishwasher, and food
disposer. Methods for installing two small-
appliance circuits are also shown. While your
kitchen remodeling project will differ from
this one, the methods and concepts shown
apply to any kitchen wiring project containing
any combination of circuits.
This illustration (right) shows the layout of
seven circuits, in addition to the location of
switches, receptacles, and lights. The size and
number of circuits and the specific features
included in this project are based on the par-
ticular needs of this 170-sq.-ft. kitchen.
Four of these circuits are dedicated circuits:
a 50-amp circuit supplying the range, a
20-amp circuit powering the microwave, and
two 15-amp circuits supplying the dishwasher
and food disposer. In addition, two 20-amp
Circuits
circuits for small appliances supply power to #1 & #2:
all receptacles above the countertops and in 12/3 cable
the eating area. Finally, a 15-amp basic light-
ing circuit controls the ceiling fixture, all of
the recessed fixtures, and the under-cabinet Circuit #4:
Circuit #3: 12/2 cable
task lights. The final connections for these cir-
6/3 cable
cuits are shown on pages 454 to 459.
Because no two kitchens are exactly alike,
you’ll need to create a wiring diagram for your
own wiring project. Keep in mind that all
rough construction and plumbing work should
be finished and inspected before beginning
the electrical work. It also helps to divide the
project into steps and complete each step
before beginning the next. For more informa-
tion on basic wiring methods and techniques,
refer to pages 100 to 145.
448 Remodeling Kitchens/ Wiring

#1 & #2: Small-appliance circuits. Two 20-amp, 120-volt
circuits supply power to countertop and eating areas for
small appliances. All general-use receptacles must be on
these circuits. One 12/3 cable, fed by a 20-amp double-pole
breaker, wires both circuits. These circuits share one electri-
cal box with the disposer circuit (#5), and another with the
basic lighting circuit (#7).
#3: Range circuit. A 50-amp, 120/240-volt dedicated cir-

cuit supplies power to the range/oven appliance. It is wired
with 6/3 cable.
#4: Microwave circuit. A dedicated 20-amp, 120-volt

circuit supplies power to the microwave. It is wired with 12/2
cable. Microwaves that use less than 300 watts can be
Circuit #7: installed on a 15-amp circuit or plugged into the small-
14/3 cable appliance circuits.
#5: Food disposer circuit. A dedicated 15-amp, 120-volt

circuit supplies power to the disposer. It is wired with 14/2
cable. Some local codes allow the disposer to be on the same
circuit as the dishwasher.
#6: Dishwasher circuit. A dedicated 15-amp, 120-volt

circuit supplies power to the dishwasher. It is wired with 14/2
cable. Some local codes allow the dishwasher to be on the
Circuit #7:
14/2 cable same circuit as the disposer.
#7: Basic lighting circuit. A dedicated 15-amp, 120-volt

circuit powers the ceiling fixture, recessed fixtures, and
under-cabinet task lights. 14/2 and 14/3 cables connect the
fixtures and switches in the circuit. Each task light has a self-
contained switch.
Circuit #6:
14/2 cable
Circuit #5:
14/2 cable
Remodeling Kitchens/ Wiring 449

Remodeling Kitchens
Planning the Circuits
A kitchen generally uses more power than areas will make it more
other rooms because it contains many fixtures convenient to operate
and appliances. Where you locate these items small appliances.
depends upon your needs. Make sure the main The primary ceiling
work areas of your kitchen have plenty of light fixture should be cen-
and enough receptacles. Try to anticipate tered in the kitchen
future needs: for example, you may want to ceiling. Or, if your
install a range receptacle when remodeling, kitchen contains a din-
even if you currently have a gas range. It is dif- ing area or breakfast
ficult and expensive to make those changes nook, you may want to
later. center the light fixture
Contact the local building department over the table. Locate
before you begin planning. They may have recessed light fixtures
requirements that differ from the National and under-cabinet task
Grounding
Electrical Code. Remember that the code lights where they will screw
contains minimum requirements primarily efficiently illuminate the
concerning safety, not convenience or need. main work areas.
Metal
Work with the inspectors to create a safe plan Before drawing dia- coverplate
that also meets your needs. grams and applying for a
To help locate receptacles, plan carefully permit, evaluate your Inspectors may require switches with grounding screws in kitchens and baths. Code
where cabinets and appliances will be in the existing service and requires them when metal coverplates are used with plastic boxes.
finished project. Appliances installed within make sure it provides
cabinets, such as microwaves or food disposers, enough power to supply the new circuits you Bring the wiring plan and materials list to the
must have their receptacles positioned accord- are planning to add. If you find that it will inspector’s office when applying for the permit.
ing to manufacturer’s instructions. Putting at not, contact a licensed electrician to upgrade Follow any suggestions made by your inspec-
least one receptacle at table height in dining your service before beginning your work. tor. These tips can save you time and money.
4 ft. maximum
Code requires receptacles above countertops to be no more than 4 ft. apart. Put receptacles items such as range tops, sinks, and refrigerators are considered separate sections.) All acces-
closer together in areas where many appliances will be used. Any section of countertop that sible receptacles in kitchens and bathrooms must be a GFCI. On walls without countertops,
is wider than 12" must have a receptacle located above it. (Countertop spaces separated by receptacles should be no more than 12 ft. apart.

Tips for Planning Kitchen Circuits
Two 20-amp small-appliance circuits can
be wired with one 12/3 cable supplying
power to both circuits (top, right), rather
than using separate 12/2 cables for each cir-
12/3 12/3 12/3 12/2
cuit (bottom, right), to save time and
money. In 12/3 cable, the black wire supplies
power to one circuit for alternate receptacles
(the first, third, etc.), the red wire supplies
Line Line Line
Silver
power for the second circuit to the remain-
Silver Silver Line
Line
Line Line Line
ing receptacles. The white wire is the neutral
Silver
Brass Brass for both circuits. For safety, the neutral must
Brass Brass
be attached with a pigtail to each recepta-
cle, instead of being connected directly to
the terminal. These circuits must contain all
general-use receptacles in the kitchen,
Two circuits supplied by one 3-wire cable. pantry, breakfast area, or dining room. No
lighting outlets or receptacles from any
other rooms can be connected to them.
12/2 12/2 12/2
12/2 12/2 12/2
Two circuits supplied by two 2-wire cables.
Work areas at the sink and range should be well-lighted for Ranges require a dedicated 40- or 50-amp 120/240-volt cir- Dishwashers and food disposers require dedicated 15-amp,
convenience and safety. Install switch-controlled lights over cuit (or two circuits for separate oven and countertop units). 120-volt circuits according to most local codes. Some inspec-
these areas. Even if you do not have an electric range, it’s a good idea to tors will allow these appliances to share one circuit.
install the circuit when remodeling.

Remodeling Kitchens
Completing the Rough-ins
After the inspector issues you a work permit, First determine locations for the boxes Always use the largest electrical boxes that
you can begin installing electrical boxes for above the countertops (see page 453). After are practical for your installation. Using large
switches, receptacles, and fixtures. Install all establishing the height for these boxes, install boxes ensures that you will meet code regula-
boxes and frames for recessed fixtures, such as all of the other visible wall boxes at this tions concerning box volume, and simplifies
vent fans and recessed lights, before cutting height. Boxes that will be behind appliances or making the connections.
and installing any cable. However, some sur- inside cabinets should be located according to After all the boxes and recessed fixtures are
face-mounted fixtures, such as under-cabinet the appliance manufacturer’s instructions. For installed, you are ready to measure and cut the
task lights, have self-contained wire connec- example, the receptacle for the dishwasher cables. First install the feeder cables that run
tion boxes. These fixtures are installed after cannot be installed directly behind that appli- from the circuit breaker panel to the first elec-
the walls are finished and the cabinets are ance; it is often located in the sink cabinet for trical box in each circuit. Then cut and install
in place. easy access. the remaining cables to complete the circuits.
72"
45" 45"
45"
12"
12"
6"
Heights of electrical boxes in a kitchen vary depending upon their use. In the kitchen tacle is 72" above the floor, where it will fit between the cabinets. The centers of the boxes for
project shown here, the centers of the boxes above the countertop are 45" above the floor, the range and food disposer receptacles are 12" above the floor, but the center of the box for
centered within 18" backsplashes extending from the countertop to the cabinets. All boxes for the dishwasher receptacle is 6" above the floor, next to the space that the appliance will
wall switches also are installed at this height. The center of the box for the microwave recep- occupy.

Tips for Roughing-in Kitchen Wiring
Wall cabinet
4"
Base cabinet
Backsplash
Center at
45" above
floor
Cutaway view
Mount electrical boxes above countertops centered 45" Install cables for an under-cabinet light at positions that Choose the proper type of recessed light fixture for your
above the floor. However, if the backsplash is more than 4" will line up with the knockouts on the fixture box (which is project. There are two types of fixtures: those rated for instal-
high (standard) or the distance between the countertop and installed after the walls and cabinets are in place). Cables lation within insulation (left), and those that must be kept at
the bottom of the cabinet is less than 18", center the box in will be retrieved through 5⁄8" drilled holes (see page 459), so it least 3" from insulation (right). Self-contained thermal
the space between the countertop and the bottom of the wall is important to position the cables accurately. switches shut off power if the unit gets too hot for its rating.
cabinet. A recessed light fixture must be installed at least 1⁄2" from
combustible materials.
Mounting a Recessed Light Fixture

A B C
Extend the mounting bars on the recessed fixture to reach the Align the bottom edges of the mounting bars with the bot- Remove the wire connection box cover and open one knock-
framing members. Adjust the position of the light unit on the tom edges of the framing members, then nail or screw the out for each cable entering the box. Install a cable clamp for
mounting bars to locate it properly. mounting bars to the framing members. each open knockout, and tighten the locknut, using a screw-
driver to drive the lugs.

Remodeling Kitchens
Making the Final Connections
Make the final connections for switches, on walls and ceiling, install the cabinets, and panel (you’ll probably want to hire an electri-
receptacles, and fixtures after the rough-in make the remaining final connections. Use the cian for this). After all connections are made,
inspection. First, make final connections on photos on the following pages as a guide for your work is ready for the final inspection.
recessed fixtures (it is easier to do this before making the final connections. The last step is
wallboard is installed). Then, finish the work to connect the circuits at the main service
Circuits #1 & #2
Two 20-amp, 120-volt small-appliance
circuits.
• 7 GFCI receptacles
• 20-amp double-pole circuit breaker
NOTE: In this project, two of the GFCI

receptacles are installed in boxes that also contain
switches from other circuits (see page 455).
A B
Connecting small-appliance receptacles (two alternating 20-amp circuits in one 12/3 At the remaining receptacles in the run, attach a red pigtail to a brass screw terminal (LINE)
cable): At alternate receptacles in the cable run (first, third, etc.), attach a black pigtail to a and to the red wires from the cables. Attach a white pigtail to a silver screw terminal (LINE)
brass screw terminal marked LINE on the receptacle and to the black wire from both cables. and to both white wires. Connect a grounding pigtail to the grounding screw and to both
Connect a white pigtail to a silver screw (LINE) and to both white wires. Connect a ground- grounding wires. Connect both black wires together. Tuck the wires into the box and attach
ing pigtail to the grounding screw and to both grounding wires. Connect both red wires the receptacle and coverplate. (See page 451 for an optional wiring method using two sepa-
together. Tuck the wires into the box, then attach the receptacle and coverplate. rate 12/2 cables, one for each circuit.)

D
Switch is from
circuit #5 for the
food disposer
To disposer
Installing a GFCI & disposer switch: Connect a black pigtail (A) to the GFCI brass terminal wire cables. Connect both red wires together. Connect the black wire from the two-wire cable
marked LINE, and to the black wires from three-wire cables. Attach a white pigtail (B) to the (D) to one switch terminal. Attach the white wire to the other terminal and tag it black to
silver terminal marked LINE, and to the white wires from the three-wire cables. Attach a indicate it is hot. Attach the grounding wire to the switch grounding screw. Tuck the wires
grounding pigtail (C) to the GFCI grounding screw and to the grounding wires from the three- into the box and attach the switch, receptacle, and coverplate.
D Sink light switch

To sink
To recessed light G
A lights
E Switches
B are from
circuit #7
for basic
lighting
Feed Switch for

C cable recessed
lights
Installing a GFCI & two switches for recessed lights: Connect a red pigtail (A) to the GFCI Connect the black wire (F) from the two-wire cable leading to the recessed lights, to the
brass terminal labeled LINE and to the red wires from the three-wire cables. Connect a white remaining screw on the switch for the recessed lights. Connect the black wire (G) from the
pigtail (B) to the silver LINE terminal and to the white wires from the three-wire cables. Attach two-wire cable leading to sink light, to the remaining screw on the sink light switch. Connect
a grounding pigtail (C) to the grounding screw and to the grounding wires from the three- the white wires from all the two-wire cables together. Connect pigtails to the switch ground-
wire cables. Connect the black wires from the three-wire cables (D) together. Attach a black ing screws, and to all the grounding wires from the two-wire cables. Tuck the wires into the
pigtail to one screw on each switch and to the black wire from the two-wire feed cable (E). box and attach the switches, receptacle, and coverplate.

Remodeling Kitchens
Making the Final Connections (cont.)
Circuit #3
A 50-amp, 120/240-volt circuit serving the range.
• 50-amp receptacle for range
• 50-amp double-pole circuit breaker
Installing a 120/240 Range Receptacle: Attach the white wire to the neutral terminal, and
the black and red wires to the remaining terminals. The neutral white wire acts as the
grounding wire for this circuit, so push the bare copper ground wire from the cable to the
back of the box. Tuck the rest of the wires into the box. Attach the receptacle and coverplate.
Circuit #4
A 20-amp, 120-volt circuit for the microwave.
• 20-amp duplex receptacle
• 20-amp single-pole circuit breaker
Connecting a Microwave Receptacle: Connect the black wire from the cable to a brass screw
terminal on the receptacle. Attach the white wire to a silver screw terminal, and connect the
grounding wire to the receptacle's grounding screw. Tuck the wires into the box and attach
the receptacle and coverplate.

Circuit #5
A 15-amp, 120-volt circuit for the food disposer. To switch

• Single-pole switch
NOTE: Final connection of the single-pole switch controlling the dis-

poser is shown on page 455.
Connecting a Disposer Receptacle: Connect the black wires together. Connect the white wire
from the feed cable (A) to a silver screw on the receptacle. Connect the white wire from the
cable going to the switch to a brass screw terminal on the receptacle, and tag the wire with
black to indicate it is hot. Attach a grounding pigtail to the grounding screw and to both
cable grounding wires. Tuck the wires into the box and attach the receptacle and coverplate.
Circuit #6
A 15-amp, 120-volt circuit for the dishwasher.
Connecting a Dishwasher Receptacle: Connect the black wire to a brass screw terminal.
Attach the white wire to a silver screw terminal. Connect the grounding wire to the ground-
ing screw. Tuck the wires into the box, then attach the receptacle and coverplate.

Remodeling Kitchens
Making the Final Connections (cont.)
Circuit #7 A
A 15-amp basic lighting circuit serving the kitchen.
• 2 three-way switches with grounding screws
• 2 single-pole switches with grounding screws
• Ceiling light fixture
• 6 recessed light fixtures
• 4 fluorescent under-cabinet fixtures
NOTE: Final con-
nections for the
single-pole switches
are shown on
page 455. B
Connecting the First Three-way Switch: Connect a black pigtail to the COMMON screw on
the switch (A) and to the black wires from the two-wire cables. Connect the black and red
wires from the three-wire cable to the TRAVELER terminals (B) on the switch. Connect the white
wires from all cables entering box together. Attach a grounding pigtail to the switch ground-
ing screw and to all the grounding wires in the box. Tuck the wires into the box, then attach
the switch and coverplate.
From first
To second three-way switch
three-way switch
A
D
C A
Connecting a Surface-mounted Ceiling Fixture: Connect the white fixture lead to the white Connecting the Second Three-way Switch: Connect the black wire from the cable to the
wire (A) from the first three-way switch. Connect the black fixture lead to the black wire (B) COMMON screw terminal (A). Connect the red wire to a TRAVELER screw terminal. Attach the
from the second three-way switch. Connect the black wire (C) from the first switch to the white white wire to the other TRAVELER screw terminal and tag it with black to indicate it is hot.
wire (D) from the second switch, and tag this white wire with black to indicate that it is hot. Attach the grounding wire to the grounding screw on the switch. Tuck the wires in the box,
Connect the red wires from both switches together. Connect all the grounding wires together. then attach the switch and coverplate.
Mount the fixture following manufacturer's instructions.

Connecting Recessed Light Fixtures
A B C
Make the connections before installing the wallboard (the Connect the black wires to the black lead from the fixture. Attach a grounding pigtail to the grounding screw on the fix-
work also must be inspected first). For each fixture, connect tures, then connect all the grounding wires. Tuck the wires
the white cable wires to the white fixture lead. into the junction box, and replace the cover.
Connecting Under-cabinet Fluorescent Task Light Fixtures

A B C
Drill 5⁄8" holes through the wall and cabinet at locations that Remove the access cover on the fixture. Open one knockout for Strip 8" of sheathing from each cable end. Insert each end
line up with knockouts on the fixture, and retrieve the cable each cable that enters the fixture box, and install cable through a cable clamp, leaving 1⁄4" of sheathing in the fixture
ends (see page 453). clamps. box.
D E F
Pigtails
Pigtails
Fixture
Ballast leads
Screw the fixture box to the cabinet. Attach the black, white, Connect a black pigtail and circuit wire to the black lead Tuck the wires into the box, and route the THHN/THWN pig-
and green pigtails of the THHN/THWN wire (see page 108) to from the fixture. Connect a white pigtail and circuit wire to tails along one side of the ballast. Replace the access cover
the wires from one cable entering the box. The pigtails must the white lead from the fixture. Attach a green pigtail and and fixture lens.
be long enough to reach the cable at other end of the box. copper circuit wire to the green grounding wire attached to
the fixture box.

Remodeling Kitchens
Variation: Installing In-cabinet & Above-cabinet Lighting
Cabinets are great places for a variety of lighting.
In addition to the lighting options discussed
on pages 448 to 458, you may want to consider
incorporating in-cabinet and above-cabinet
lighting into your lighting scheme. While
under-cabinet lights make great task and accent
lighting, cabinet tops and insides are great for
concealing ambient sources, adding texture and
interest to the look and feel of your kitchen.
When shopping for in-cabinet and above-
cabinet lighting, keep in mind that most
halogen fixtures require a mounting hole that
extends completely through the cabinet stock
for ventilation.
Tools: Neon circuit tester, drill, hole saw,

fish tape, cable stripper, combination
tool.
Materials: Mini low-voltage recessed
light, 120 volt-12 volt transformer, fluo-
rescent light fixture, wire connectors,
nonmetallic cable.
Installing In-cabinet Lights

A B
Use a hole saw to make a hole in the top of the cabinet or in a shelf. Depress the spring clips Connect the light to transformer wires or to the next light in the series with wire connectors.
on the side of the light and fit it into the hole. The two wires should be on top. The simplest way to install a transformer for these lights is to use a plug-in transformer. You
can install a switch for the receptacle or you can use a plug-in transformer with a built-in
switch. For larger, built-in cabinets, hardwire the transformer and use a standard or dimmer
switch as with under- or above-cabinet lights.

Installing Above-cabinet Lights
A B
Turn off power to the circuit and confirm that the power is off, using a neon circuit tester. If Route an NM cable from a nearby receptacle to a switch (see pages 127 to 129). Route cable
the walls are finished and the cabinets installed. Drill a 5⁄8" hole through the wall surface from the switch to the hole above the cabinet. Use a fish tape to pull the cable up through
directly above the cabinets where the cable will enter each light fixture. the wall behind the cabinet. Pull about 16" of cable through the hole. If the walls are open,
tie the switch and the fixture into the basic lighting circuit.
C D
Use a fluorescent fixture that will be entirely concealed by the trim on the front edge of the Remove a knockout from the fixture, and route the cable into the fixture, leaving 11" extra for
cabinet top. (Lighting stores sell low-profile fluorescent fixtures.) Remove the lens and the cover making connections. Secure it with a cable clamp. Remove 101⁄2" of sheathing from the cable
from the fluorescent fixture. Attach the light fixture to the back of the cabinet top with screws. and strip 3⁄4" of insulation from each of the wires. Using wire connectors, connect the black
circuit wire to the black fixture wire, the white circuit wire to the white fixture wire, and the
grounding circuit wire to the fixture grounding wire. Tuck the wires into the fixture, replace
the cover and lens, and install a bulb. Install the switch, and restore the power.

Remodeling Kitchens
Painting Cabinets
Painting your cabinets is a quick, inexpensive way to renew your
kitchen’s appearance. Cabinets receive heavy use and are frequently
scrubbed, so paint them with heavy-duty gloss enamel, which is more
durable than flat wall paint. Most jobs will require two coats of paint.
Sand the surfaces lightly between coats.
Use natural bristle paint brushes with alkyd (oil-based) paints; use
synthetic bristle brushes with latex (water-based) paints.
Varnished cabinets can be painted if the surface is properly prepared.
Use liquid deglosser to dull the shine, then prime all surfaces. Alkyd
paints work best for painting varnished cabinets. Cabinets covered with
plastic laminate should not be painted.
If you decide to varnish your cabinets, prepare them by stripping the
wood, filling any holes or scratches, and sealing the wood. Then apply
varnish, sanding lightly between coats. Heat guns can speed up the
stripping process, but be careful not to damage or blister surfaces
around cabinets. Use chemical strippers for spot-stripping.
Tools: Screwdriver, work light, paint pan, tapered sash brush,

trim brush, scraper, sandpaper, short-nap paint rollers.
Materials: Paint remover, mild detergent, wood-patching com-
pound, primer/sealer, gloss enamel paint.
B
D
A
I G
H
E
J
F
Specialty tools and supplies for painting cabinets include: work light (A), paint pan (B),
paint remover (C), primer/sealer (D), tapered sash brush (E), trim brushes (F), scraper (G),
sandpaper (H), paint rollers (I), roller covers (J).
462 Remodeling Kitchens/ Painting Cabinets

Painting Cabinets
A B C
2
Empty the cabinets. Remove the doors, drawers, removable Wash the cabinets with a mild detergent. Scrape any loose Paint the cabinet interiors first, in this order: 1) back walls,
shelves, and all hardware. If the hardware is to be repainted, paint. Fill any deep scratches and dents with a wood-patching 2) tops, 3) sides, 4) bottoms. Paint the bottoms, tops, and
strip the old paint by soaking the hardware in paint remover. compound. Sand all the surfaces. Wipe away the sanding edges of the shelves last.
dust, and prime all the bare wood with a sealer.
D E F
Paint the large outside surfaces using a short-nap paint Paint both sides of the doors, beginning with the inner sur- Paint the drawer fronts last. Let the doors and drawers dry
roller. Work from the top down. faces. With panel doors, paint in this order: 1) recessed for several days, then install the hardware and rehang the
panels, 2) horizontal rails, 3) vertical stiles. doors.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Painting Cabinets 463

Remodeling Kitchens
Refacing Cabinets
Tools: Drill, utility knife, straightedge,
Refacing existing kitchen cabinets produces a drawer fronts, and natural-wood veneer for wallcovering roller, handsaw.
dramatic change in style. Refacing kits allow resurfacing cabinet face frames and sides.
Materials: Latex wood patch, paint
you to change the style, color, and decor of Additional options include replacement and
scraper, 150-grit sandpaper, refacing kit,
your kitchen for significantly less than cabinet storage hardware, hinges, drawer boxes, lazy stain and polyurethane (if needed),
replacement. Susans, molding, and valances. wood blocks, cabinet hardware.
Standard refacing kits include new doors,
A B
Remove the old doors, hinges, catches, and other hardware. Paint the interior of the cabinets, Remove the veneer from the package and lay it flat on a smooth surface. Measure each sur-
if desired (see pages 462 to 463). Scrape off any loose or peeling finish. Fill any holes or chips face to be covered, and add 1⁄4" for overlap. Cut the veneer pieces with a utility knife and a
with latex wood patch. Let the patch dry, then lightly sand the cabinet sides, faces, and edges straightedge.
with 150-grit sandpaper.
C D
Apply the veneer to any vertical frame members first. Peel the veneer backing off to expose Apply the veneer to horizontal frame members, overlapping any vertical frame members. Trim
one corner of the adhesive. Align the veneer and press lightly to adhere it to the corner. the excess with a utility knife, using a straightedge as a guide. Apply veneer to the cabinet
Gradually remove the backing, and smooth out any air bubbles with your fingertips. Trim the sides, and trim away the excess with a utility knife.
excess veneer with a utility knife.
464 Remodeling Kitchens/ Re facing Cabinets

E F G
Bond the veneer by rolling the entire surface with a wallcov- Stain the new doors and drawer fronts, if they are unfinished. Mount the hinges to the cabinet doors, following the kit man-
ering roller. Stain any unfinished veneer to match. Apply three coats of ufacturer’s instructions. Attach the doors to the cabinet
polyurethane finish, sanding lightly between coats with 150- frames, aligning them carefully so they overlap the frames
grit sandpaper. equally on all sides and the gaps between doors are even.
Install all door hardware.
H I J
False
drawer
front
Saw off all the overhanging edges of the existing solid (one- Attach the new fronts by drilling pilot holes and driving Attach the false drawer fronts on the sink and cooktop cabi-
piece) drawer fronts. If the drawer fronts are two-piece, screws through the insides of the drawers into the new nets by cutting wood blocks to span the drawer openings.
remove the screws and discard the decorative face panels. drawer fronts. Make sure the drawer fronts overlap the draw- Place the blocks across the openings on the insides of the cab-
ers by an equal margin on all sides. Install all hardware. inets. Fasten the false fronts by driving screws through wood
blocks into the fronts.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Re facing Cabinets 465

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing New Cabinets

Cabinets determine the style and function of a
kitchen more than any other element. They
also represent a significant portion of the
expense of kitchen remodeling. For these rea-
sons and because new cabinets may be in place
for decades, buying new cabinets is perhaps
the most important decision you’ll make in
the remodeling process. The result can be the
most satisfying.
Installing cabinets is fairly simple; with one
or two helpers, most do-it-yourselfers can do
a fine job of installing them. The most impor-
tant factors in an installation are preparing the
walls so they are perfectly smooth and flat,
and marking the cabinet layout using perfectly
level and plumb reference lines.
Selecting Cabinets
Kitchen cabinets are generally divided into prices for a custom product. You should
three grades, based on how they are con- allow 3 to 8 weeks lead time when ordering
structed. To some extent, the grades indicate semi-custom cabinets.
quality, but not very accurately. The best test of • Custom cabinets offer the most in both quality
quality is a thorough physical inspection. and available options. Each unit is custom-
• Stock cabinets are factory-made to standard built to fit your kitchen. It’s wise to shop
sizes and typically are sold off-the-shelf in around before settling on a custom cabinet-
home centers. Widths range from 9" to 48", maker, as prices can vary widely. If you
in 3" increments. Stock cabinets are the least choose to have your cabinets custom-made,
expensive of the three grades, but they offer expect a lead time of about 6 to 10 weeks.
the fewest design options. While the quality Cabinets are available in two types: face-frame
is generally lower, a well-made stock cabinet and frameless, or Euro-style. Face-frame cabinets
can be a very good value. If your stock cabi- have frames around the front of the cabinet
nets have to be ordered, it may be a couple box, or carcass, made of solid hardwood. The
of days to a couple of weeks before they arrive. doors on face-frame cabinets mount over the
• Semi-custom cabinets are also factory-made frame, and the hinges are exposed. Face-frame
to standard sizes, but they offer many more cabinets typically have a more traditional look.
options of finish, size, features, and materi- Frameless cabinets have no face frame and
als than stock cabinets. These are typically the doors span the entire width of the carcass.
sold in showrooms, and are priced between The doors are mounted using cup hinges,
stock and custom cabinets. Semi-custom which are invisible when the doors are closed.
cabinets are the best choice for homeowners The plainer, cleaner styling of frameless cabinets Specification booklets list all the dimensions of cabinets and
who want better quality with some special gives them a contemporary look. trim pieces. Draw a kitchen floor plan on graph paper, and
features but don’t want to pay the high Both types of cabinets are available in use the booklets when sketching your cabinet layout.
466 Remodeling Kitchens/ New Cabinets

Cabinet Quality Standards Drawers should have
Door finish should
be high-pressure
Shelves should be
1
⁄2" to 3⁄4" plywood at least 3⁄4" thick to
laminate, which handle heavy loads.
or solid-wood sides. is preferable to
Drawer slides should Doweled, rabbeted,
slide smoothly with melamine.
or dovetailed joints
little play, and close are best; beware
quietly and solidly. of staples.
Select double-glide,
epoxy-coated guides.
Finish on wood
cabinets and doors
should be free of
cross-grain scratches,
rough areas, drips,
and streaks.
Face-frame cabinets should have 3⁄4" thick hardwood Frameless (Euro-style) cabinets should
face frame, and a 3⁄8" to 1⁄2" thick plywood carcass use 5⁄8" to 3⁄4" particleboard (or plywood)
(or 5⁄8" to 3⁄4" thick particleboard). for the entire carcass.
modular units, which have finished panels on On cabinets with natural wood surfaces, pay found on frameless cabinets, may be faced
both sides and can be arranged in a variety of close attention to how well the grain and col- with a plastic laminate similar to the material
ways to fit any kitchen layout. Modular cabi- ors of the different pieces match. used on countertops. This is a durable, wash-
net doors can be reversed to open from either able material that should last a very long time;
the left or right. They are especially suited to Drawers just make sure the facing is laminate and not
do-it-yourself installations. A drawer is a good indicator of a cabinet’s just a coating of melamine—a much less
There are no distinct advantages or disad- quality. Better drawers are made with plywood durable finish.
vantages between the two cabinet types. or solid wood, and their pieces are assembled If you’re looking for wood doors with a stain
However, by virtue of not having a face frame, with strong joints, such as dovetail, dowel, or or a clear finish, make sure the outer wood
frameless cabinets offer slightly more storage rabbet joints. Avoid drawers that were put veneers look good and the blending of the
space than framed types, and their drawers are together with staples. Also, four-sided draw- grain and color variations is attractive.
a bit wider, for the same reason. ers, with the drawer front attached to the front Examine the finish for common flaws, such as
To be sure you’re getting your money’s side, are stronger and more durable than those inconsistency, rough areas, drips or cross-grain
worth with your cabinet purchase, inspect all with three sides that use the drawer front as sanding marks. You may have specific reasons
major components. the fourth side. for choosing pine or another softwood, but
Drawer slides should be smooth and sound remember that hardwoods, such as maple,
Basic Materials and allow little play from side to side. You can oak, and cherry, are more durable.
Most cabinet carcass are made with plywood also check the slide’s load rating, which should An alternative to the traditional raised-panel
or particle board. Plywood is stronger than be at least 75 pounds. wood door is the vinyl-clad door. Made from
particle board of the same thickness, but that medium-density fiberboard (MDF) with a
doesn’t mean you should avoid the latter. If Doors tough vinyl foil, vinyl-clad doors look like
the cabinet is made with particle board, make If the rest of the cabinet is of a suitable qual- painted wood doors, but have a more durable
sure the board used is 5⁄8" to 3⁄4" thick. It ity, the doors should be fine, and your decision finish. Another advantage is that vinyl-clad
should also have a vinyl or melamine coating will be based largely on appearance. But cabi- doors expand and contract less than wood
on the inside surfaces, to protect it from water net doors receive a lot of use, and they need a doors, so there’s less risk of the paint cracking
damage. Most frameless cabinets (including durable finish to protect them over the years. along the edges of the panel.
the doors) are made with particleboard. Flat particleboard doors, which are commonly
Remodeling Kitchens/ New Cabinets 467

Remodeling Kitchens
Preparing the Walls
Installing new cabinets is easiest if the kitchen tion of the cabinets.
is completely empty. Remove the old cabinets, Cabinets must be installed plumb and level. Tools: Level, trowel, stud finder, drill.
disconnect the plumbing and wiring, and Using a level as a guide, draw reference lines Materials: Straight 6- to 8-ft.-long
temporarily remove the appliances. If the on the walls to indicate cabinet location. If the 2 × 4, wallboard compound, sandpaper,
new kitchen requires plumbing or electrical kitchen floor is uneven, find the highest point 1 × 3 boards, 21⁄2” wallboard screws.
changes, now is the time to get this work of the floor in the area that will be covered by
done. If the kitchen flooring is to be replaced, base cabinets. Measure up from this point to
finish it before beginning layout and installa- draw reference lines.
A B
Find the high and low spots on the wall surfaces using a long, straight 2 × 4. Sand down any Fill in the low spots of the wall. Apply wallboard taping compound with a trowel. Let the com-
high spots. pound dry, then sand it lightly.
C D
High point
Locate and mark all wall studs in the project area, using an electronic stud finder. The cabi- Find the high point along the floor in the area that will be covered by the base cabinets. Place
nets will be hung by driving screws into the studs through the backs of the cabinets. a level on a long, straight 2 × 4, and move the board across the floor to determine if the floor
is uneven. If so, mark the wall at the high point.

E F
84"
341⁄2"
High point
High point
Measure up 341⁄2" from the high-point mark. Use a level to mark a reference line on the walls. Measure up 84" from the high-point mark and draw a second reference line. The wall cabi-
The base cabinets will be installed with their top edges flush against this line. nets will be installed with their top edges flush against this line.
G H
30"
Measure down 30" from the wall-cabinet reference line and draw another level line where the Install 1 × 3 temporary ledgers with the top edges flush against the reference line. Attach the
bottom of the cabinets will be. Temporary ledgers will be installed against this line. ledgers with 21⁄2" wallboard screws driven into every other wall stud. Mark the stud locations
on the ledgers. The cabinets will rest temporarily on the ledgers during installation.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing Cabinets
Cabinets must be firmly anchored with screws to wall studs, and must
be exactly plumb and level, so that doors and drawers operate
smoothly. In older homes, where walls and floors may be out of square,
C E
hanging cabinets often involves shimming cabinets up and out.
To protect the finish of your new cabinets, keep the protective wrap-
ping on the units until you are ready to install them. Number each
cabinet and mark its position on the wall. Just before installation,
remove the cabinet doors and drawers, and number them so they can
D be easily replaced after the cabinets are installed.
B
Before you begin screwing cabinets to the wall, make sure the elec-
A tricity to the area is off. If you are installing both wall and base
cabinets, begin with the wall cabinets. Where cabinets run along two
F G walls, start at a corner; otherwise, begin at either end. Correct place-
ment of corner cabinets is essential to making adjacent cabinets plumb.
Tools: Circular saw or miter saw, handscrew clamps, level,

H
utility knife, drill with 3⁄16" twist bit, nail set, jig saw with
wood-cutting blade, No. 9 counterbore drill bit, screwdriver,
stud finder.
I
Materials: Cabinets, valance, finish nails, 1 × 3 lumber, card-
board, 2 × 4 lumber.
Specialty tools & supplies for installing cabinets include: filler strips (A), trim moldings (B),
wood shims (C), No. 8 gauge 21⁄2" sheetmetal screws (D), 3" wallboard screws (E), No. 10 gauge Specialty Materials: See photo, left.
4" wood screws (F), finish washers (G), 6d finish nails (H), No. 9 counterbore drill bit (I).
Fitting Blind Corner Cabinets
Blind corner
cabinet Filler strip
A B
Before installation, test-fit the corner and adjoining cabinets to make sure the doors and the edges of the doors and the cabinet corner (A, B), cut a filler strip and attach it to the
handles do not interfere with each other. If necessary, increase the clearance by pulling the adjoining cabinet. Measure distance (C) as a reference when positioning the blind cabinet
blind cabinet away from the side wall by no more than 4". To maintain even spacing between against the wall.

Installing Wall Cabinets
A B
Position the corner cabinet on the ledger. Drill 3⁄16" pilot holes into the studs through the hang- Attach a filler strip to the adjoining cabinet, if needed (see page 470). Clamp the filler in place,
ing strips at the rear of the cabinet. Attach the cabinet to the wall with 21⁄2" sheetmetal screws. using handscrew clamps. Drill pilot holes through the cabinet face frame near the hinge loca-
Do not tighten the screws fully until all the cabinets are hung. tions, using a counterbore bit. Attach the filler to the cabinet with 21⁄2" sheetmetal screws.
NOTE: Handscrew clamps will not damage the wood face frames.
C D
Position the adjoining cabinet on the ledger, tight against the blind corner cabinet. Check the Clamp the corner cabinet and the adjoining cabinet together at the top and bottom.
face frame for plumb. Drill 3⁄16" pilot holes into the wall studs through hanging strips in the
rear of the cabinet. Attach the cabinet with sheetmetal screws. Do not tighten the screws fully
until all cabinets are hung.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing Wall Cabinets (cont.)
E F
Attach the blind corner cabinet to the adjoining cabinet. From inside the corner cabinet, drill Position and attach each additional cabinet. Clamp the frames together, and drill counter-
pilot holes through the face frame. Join the cabinets with sheetmetal screws. bored pilot holes through the sides of the face frames. Join the cabinets with sheetmetal
screws. Drill 3⁄16" pilot holes in the hanging strips, and attach the cabinets to the studs with
sheetmetal screws.
VA R I AT I O N : Join frameless cabinets with No. 8 gauge 11⁄4" wood screws and finish wash- Fill small spaces between a cabinet and a wall or appliance with a filler strip. Cut the filler
ers. Each pair of cabinets should be joined by at least four screws. strip to fit the space, then wedge the filler into place with wood shims. Drill counterbored pilot
holes through side of the cabinet face frame, and attach the filler with sheetmetal screws.

H \I
Remove the temporary ledger below the cabinets. Check the cabinet run for plumb, and Use trim moldings to cover any gaps between cabinets and walls. Stain or paint the mold-
adjust if necessary by placing wood shims behind the cabinets, near the stud locations. ings to match the cabinet finish, and attach them to the cabinet sides with finish nails.
Tighten the wall screws completely. Cut off the shims, using a utility knife.
J K
Attach a decorative valance above the sink. Clamp the valance to the edges of the cabinet Install the cabinet doors, following the cabinet manufacturer’s instructions. If necessary,
frames, and drill counterbored pilot holes through the cabinet frames into the ends of the adjust the hinges so that the doors are straight and plumb.
valance. Attach the valance with sheetmetal screws.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing Base Cabinets
A B
Begin the installation with a corner cabinet. Position the cabinet so that the top is flush with Attach a filler strip to the adjoining cabinet, if necessary (see pages 470 to 471). Clamp the
the reference line. Make sure the cabinet is plumb and level. If necessary, adjust the cabinet filler in place, and drill counterbored pilot holes through side of the face frame. Attach the
by driving wood shims under the base. (Be careful not to damage the flooring.) Drill 3⁄16" pilot filler with sheetmetal screws.
holes through the cabinet hanging strip into the wall studs. Attach the cabinets loosely to the
wall with sheetmetal screws.
C D
Clamp the adjoining cabinet to the corner cabinet. Make sure the cabinet is plumb, then drill Use a jig saw to cut any openings needed for plumbing, wiring, or heating ducts.
counterbored pilot holes through the corner-cabinet face frame into the filler strip (see page
472, step E). Join the cabinets with sheetmetal screws. Drill 3⁄16" pilot holes through the hang-
ing strips into the wall studs. Attach the cabinets loosely with sheetmetal screws.

E F
Position and attach any additional cabinets, making sure the frames are aligned. Clamp the Make sure all the cabinets are level. If necessary, adjust by driving wood shims underneath
cabinets together, then drill counterbored pilot holes through the sides of the face frames. Join the cabinets. Place wood shims behind the cabinets near stud locations wherever there is a
the cabinets with sheetmetal screws. Frameless cabinets are joined with No. 8 gauge 11⁄4" gap. Tighten the wall screws. Cut off the shims with a utility knife.
wood screws and finish washers (see page 472).
G H
Toe-kick
molding
Trim
molding
Use trim moldings to cover any gaps between the cabinets and the wall or floor. The toe-kick If the corner has a void area not covered by cabinets, screw 1 × 3 cleats to the wall, flush with
area is often covered with a strip of hardwood finished to match the cabinets. the reference line. The cleats will help support the countertop.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing a Ceiling-hung Cabinet to Joists
A B Face
frame
outline
Joist
position
Cut a cardboard template to the same size as the top of the wall cabinet. Use a template to Locate the joists with a stud finder. If the joists run parallel to the cabinet, install blocking
outline the position of the cabinet on the ceiling. Mark the position of the cabinet face frame between the joists to hang the cabinet (below). Measure the joist positions and mark the cab-
on the outline. inet frame to indicate where to drive the screws.
C Joists
Have one or more helpers position the cabinet against the ceiling. Drill 3⁄16" pilot holes through Shown in cutaway: The cabinet is attached to joists with wood screws and finish washers.
the top rails into the ceiling joists. Attach the cabinets with 4" wood screws and finish washers.
Installing a Ceiling-hung Cabinet to Blocking (joists must be accessible)

A B Blocking Parallel
joist
Complete step A at the top of this page. Drill reference holes through the ceiling at each cor- Measure the distance between each block and the drilled reference holes. Mark the cabinet
ner of the cabinet outline. From above the ceiling, install 2 × 4 blocks between the joists. frame to indicate where to drive the anchoring screws. Drill pilot holes and attach cabinet to
Blocking can be toenailed or endnailed through the joists. the blocking with 4" wood screws and finish washers, as shown in cutaway above.

Installing a Base Island Cabinet
A B
Set the base cabinet in the correct position, and lightly trace the cabinet outline onto the Attach L-shaped 2 × 4 cleats to the floor at opposite corners of the cabinet outline. Allow for
flooring. Remove the cabinet. thickness of the cabinet walls by positioning cleats 3⁄4" inside the cabinet outline. Attach the
cleats to the floor with 3" wallboard screws.
C D
Lower the base cabinet over the cleats. Check the cabinet for level, and shim under the base Attach the cabinet to the floor cleats using 6d finish nails. Drill pilot holes for nails, and recess
if necessary. the nail heads with a nail set.

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing Swing-up, Glide-out & Pull-down Shelves
Swing-up shelves are perfect for storing heavy appliances Glide-out shelves make getting to the back of a base cabi- A pull-down shelf makes wall cabinets more user friendly by
under the counter. net much easier. bringing all the contents down to eye level.
An entire industry has been built around specialized shelving and

hardware, making it easier than ever to customize your kitchen storage Swing-up Shelves
with swing-up, glide-out, and pull-down shelves. By incorporating Tools: Circular saw, tape measure, screwdriver.
these few simple accessories, you can eliminate bending, reaching, and
lifting to make your kitchen easier and more efficient to use. Materials: Shelving, 1 × 3 lumber, #8 machine screws.
Incorporate heavy-duty, swing-up shelves to bring base-cabinet items
like stand mixers to the countertop. Build your own full-extension,
glide-out shelves to divide larger spaces into two or more shelves and
Glide-out Shelves
reduce bending and reaching for wheelchair users and people with Tools: Jig saw, router, hammer, clamps, drill, nail set, circular
back problems. Choose pull-down shelf accessories to bring upper- saw, straightedge, sander, level, screwdriver.
cabinet items like spices within reach. Materials: 4d finish nails, drawer guides (2), finishing materials,
When purchasing specialized hardware accessories, check the load 11⁄4" utility screws, wood glue.
ratings, locking mechanisms, arc swings, and clearance heights to be
sure they can support the items you want to store and they will fit in
the intended location. You may have to add spacers to provide enough Pull-down Shelves
clearance for the hardware to slide past your cabinet’s hinges of face Tools: Tape measure, pencil, circular saw, drill, awl, hacksaw,
frame. Also be aware that many swing arms are sold without the shelf Allen wrench.
surface, which must be cut to fit or purchased separately. Materials: Swing-up shelf kit & hardware, 1⁄2" mdf, fasteners &
Take accurate measurements of your cabinet’s interior dimensions, finishing materials for shelf boxes, #8 pan-head screws, wall-
note any objects that protrude into the interior, and purchase special- board screws, lumber for custom spacers.
ized hardware that is compatible with your cabinetry. Frameless
cabinets often have fully concealed hinges that can interfere with swing
mechanisms. Framed cabinets will have a front perimeter face frame
and may have hinges that interfere with lift and glide hardware.
478 Remodeling Kitchens/ Specialty Shelves

Installing a Swing-up Shelf
A B
Carefully trigger the locking mechanism on each swing arm and set the arm in its fully Mark the locations of the swing arm mounting plates onto the inside cabinet faces. Mount
extended position. Hold each arm against the inside face of the cabinet side and make sure the swing arms with screws.
the arm will clear the door hinge and/or the cabinet face frame. If the arms do not clear,
you’ll need to use wood spacers to allow the arms to clear the hinges or frames by at least
1
⁄2". In most cases, one 1 × 3 spacer for each arm will provide enough clearance. Cut the spac-
ers so they match the length of the mounting plate on the swing arms.
C D
Unlock and rotate both swing arms so they are fully extended. Determine the width of the Fasten each locking bar to the bottom shelf face with the provided screws and plastic
shelf by measuring across the swing arms, parallel to the countertop, and finding the dis- spacers to ensure the bars will slide smoothly. Test the locking bars’ operation with the shelf
tance between the outer edges of the shelf-mounting flanges (on the ends of the swing arms). in the extended and retracted positions, and make any necessary adjustments.
Attach the shelf to the shelf-mounting flanges using #8 machine screws. Follow the manu-
facturer’s instructions for shelf placement.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Swing-up, Shelves 479

Remodeling Kitchens
Building & Installing a Glide-out Shelf
A B C
Rout a 3⁄8"-deep × 1⁄2"-wide dado into the Spread glue onto the rabbets of the shelf Mount the glide-out rails to the bottom edges of the spacer strips. Then attach the spacers to
front, back and side panels, 1⁄2" from the bot- fronts and attach the sides using three 4d the interior walls of the cabinet with 11⁄4" utility screws. Use a level to ensure the rails are
tom edges, using a straightedge guide. Cut a finish nails to hold each joint. Countersink installed properly. Screw a sliding rail to each side of the shelves, making sure that the bot-
3
⁄8"-deep × 3⁄4"-wide rabbet across the inside the nails with a nail set. Slide the bottom tom edges of the glides are flush against the bottom edges of the shelves. Install each shelf
faces of each end of the front and back panels into the dado grooves, then glue and by aligning its sliding rails with the glides inside the cabinet and pushing it in completely. The
pieces. nail the back pieces in place. Clamp the rails will automatically lock into place.
shelves square, and allow the glue to dry.
Wood spacer for hinge clearance
B
C
E ⁄8 × 1⁄2" dado
3
Shelf front
D
Slide hardware
3
⁄8 × 3⁄4" rabbet
C
Key Part Dimension

A
A (1) Shelf front 3
⁄4 × 3 × 26"* hardwood
Shelf
B (1) Shelf back 3
⁄4 × 3 × 26"* hardwood E front
C (2) Shelf side 3
⁄4 × 3 × 221⁄4"* hardwood
D (1) Shelf bottom 1
⁄2 × 251⁄4 × 221⁄4"* plywood Slide - shelf member
E (2) Spacer 3
⁄4 × 3 × 221⁄4"* hardwood
Slide - cabinet member
* Approximate dimension, cut to fit
To determine the proper size for the glide-out shelves, measure the inside dimensions of the cabinet and subtract the distance that hinges and face frames protrude into the interior of the
cabinet. Then subtract 1" from the width for the two slides and tracks (1⁄2" each).
480 Remodeling Kitchens/ Glide-out Shelf

Installing a Pull-down Shelf
A B
Using the manufacturer’s paper template to determine the general positions of the swing Use the template to mark location of the swing arm mounting plates. Drill a small pilot hole
arms, fasten the spacers to the inside faces of the cabinet sides with wallboard screws. The at each awl mark. Fasten the swing arms to the custom spacers or cabinet sides with #8 pan-
screws should not go completely through the cabinet side. head screws (inset). The screws should not go completely through the cabinet side.
C D
Build two shelf boxes from 1⁄2" MDF. Install the boxes between the sides of the shelf unit, using Cut the upper handle to length. With the assistance of a helper, position the box unit in front
the predrilled holes in the side pieces. Secure the boxes with #8 pan-head screws. Because the of the cabinet, rotate the lower arms down, and secure them to the side pieces using the bolts,
lower box can be installed in only one position, install it first. Then, find the desired position washers and nuts provided. Insert the top handle. With a helper, lower the upper arms one
for the upper box, and secure it in place. Slide the lower handle through the holes in the side at a time, and insert the handle end into the arm. Secure the handle with the two setscrews
pieces. in each arm, using an Allen wrench.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Pull-down Shelf 481

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing a Post-form Countertop

A post-form laminate countertop is created by The front edge of most post-form counter-
heating and bending laminate over curved tops have a lip along the bottom edge. If the
particleboard to create a seamless counter- countertop is installed directly on top of the E
and-backsplash unit. Countertop manufac- cabinets, this lip may overhang the cabinet
B
turers and suppliers offer countertop sections drawer fronts, interfering with the drawer A
in a wide range of colors and finishes, as well operation. To prevent this, install buildup
as several types of edges. Most home centers strips on the tops of the cabinets. C
carry only a few styles in stock. For a precise fit, the backsplash of your
Countertops are manufactured in stock countertop must be shaped to follow any F
D
widths of 251⁄2", and in lengths from 6 to 12 unevenness in the back wall—a process known
ft. Premitered sections are available for two- as scribing. Always use caution when cutting G
or three-piece countertops that continue or attaching laminate, as breaks, chips, and
L
around corners. Manufacturers also supply end deep scratches cannot be repaired.
caps and end splashes to match countertops. If H
your countertop has an exposed end, you’ll
I
need an endcap kit that contains a preshaped Tools: Circular saw, drill, framing
strip of matching laminate. square, straightedge, C-clamps, level, K
If your project requires joining two counter- belt sander, caulk gun, jig saw. J
top pieces at either a straight or mitered joint, Materials: Post-form countertop sec-
have those end cuts made by the manufacturer tions, 11⁄4" wallboard screws, Specialty tools & materials for installing a post-form coun-
or supplier to ensure a clean joint. To prevent tertop include: wood shims (A), take-up bolts (B), wallboard
water damage, plan so that joints fall well Specialty Tools & Materials: See photo,
screws (C), 11⁄4" brads (D), household iron (E), endcap lami-
right.
away from sinks and other wet areas. nate (F), endcap battens (G), silicone caulk (H), file (I),
adjustable wrench (J), wood glue (K), scribing compass (L).
482 Remodeling Kitchens/ Post-form Countertop

Installing a Post-form Countertop
A B
Buildup strips
Measure the cabinets to determine the length of the counter- Cut 3"-wide buildup strips from 3⁄4" plywood or particleboard. Use 11⁄4" wallboard screws to attach the strips every 24" across
top. Because the walls may not be square, measure along the the cabinets, around the perimeter, and next to any cutout locations. If an exposed end of the counter will receive a batten
back wall and along the fronts of the cabinets. Add 1" for (see step D), you may not need a buildup strip on the end of the cabinet.
overhang if the end will be exposed. If an end will butt
against an appliance, subtract 1⁄16" to prevent scratches.
C D
If you need to cut the countertop to length, use a framing square to mark a cutting line on Attach the battens from the endcap kit to the edge of the countertop, using wood glue and
the bottom surface of the countertop. Cut off the countertop with a jig saw, using a clamped 11⁄4" brads. Sand out any unevenness with a belt sander.
straightedge as a guide. Cut from the bottom side of the countertop if you’re using an up-
cutting blade; cut from the top side with a down-cutting blade.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Post-form Countertop 483

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing a Post-form Countertop (cont.)
E F
Hold the endcap laminate against the end, slightly overlapping the edges. Activate the adhe- Position the countertop on the base cabinets. Make sure the front edge of the countertop is
sive by pressing an iron set at medium heat against the endcap. Cool the endcap with a wet parallel to the cabinet face. Check the countertop for level. Make sure that the drawers and
cloth, then file it flush with the edge of the countertop. doors can open and close freely. If necessary, adjust the countertop with wood shims.
G H I
Scribing strip
Use a compass to transfer the wall contours onto the back- Remove the countertop. Use a belt sander with a coarse-grit To mark a cutout for a self-rimming sink, position the sink
splash scribing strip. Set the compass arms to match the belt to grind the backsplash to the scribe line. To avoid chip- upside down on the countertop and trace an outline. Remove
widest gap, then move it along the wall, marking the strip. If ping the laminate, hold the sander parallel to the top of the the sink and draw a cutting line 5⁄8" inside the sink outline.
the laminate is too dark to show the pencil line, scribe onto a backsplash. Bevel the strip inward slightly. Test-fit the coun-
strip of masking tape applied to the scribing strip. tertop.
484 Remodeling Kitchens/ Post-form Countertop

J K JL
To mark a cutout for a cooktop or sink with a frame, position Drill a pilot hole just inside the cutting lines. Make the cutouts Complete the miter joint by applying a bead of silicone caulk
the metal frame on the countertop and trace an outline with a jig saw using a down-cutting blade. Support each cut- along the edges of the mitered countertop sections. Force the
around the edge of the vertical flange of the frame. out area from below to keep the cutout piece from falling countertop pieces tightly together.
before the cut is complete, which could chip the laminate.
M N
From underneath the cabinet, install and tighten the miter take-up bolts. Position the coun- Seal the seam between the backsplash and the wall with a fine bead of silicone caulk. Smooth
tertop tightly against the wall and fasten it to the cabinets by driving wallboard screws up the bead with a wet fingertip. Wipe away any excess caulk.
through corner brackets into the countertop (see page 500). The screws should be long
enough to provide maximum holding power, but not long enough to puncture the laminate.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Post-form Countertop 485

Remodeling Kitchens
Building a Custom Laminate Countertop
Build your own durable, beautiful countertop
with plastic sheet laminates. Laminates are
available in hundreds of colors, styles, and tex-
tures. A countertop made with laminates can
be tailored to fit any space.
Laminate sheets are sold in 6-, 8-, 10-, or
12-foot lengths and in various thicknesses.
Widths range from 30" to 48". For greatest
impact resistance and resilience, choose
thicker sheets for countertops.
Most laminates are made by bonding a thin
surface layer of colored plastic to a core of
hardened resins. Another type of laminate,
known as solid-color, has consistent color
through the sheet. Solid-core laminates don’t
show dark lines at the trimmed edges like
traditional laminates, but they chip more
easily and are available in fewer colors.
A popular way to dress up a laminate coun-
tertop is to add hardwood edges (see pages
494 to 495). This requires some preplanning:
Some edge treatments are installed before the
laminate; others are installed after the lami-
nate is glued down. Wood edges must be
shaped with a router before the backsplash can
be installed. Also, the backsplash must be built
shorter so that it doesn’t cover the exposed
edging (see photo, page 487).
Choose nonflammable contact cement when
building a countertop, thoroughly ventilate
your work area, and take care with sharp,
unfiled edges.
Tools: Framing square, circular saw,

drill, straightedge, clamps, router, belt
sander, caulk gun, bar clamps.
Materials: 3⁄4" particleboard, sheet lami-
nate, 2" and 11⁄4" wallboard screws,
1
⁄4"-thick scrap wood, 1⁄4" plywood.
Specialty Tools & Materials: See photo,
page 482.
486 Remodeling Kitchens/ Laminate Countertop

A custom laminate countertop has a core
of 3⁄4" particleboard. The perimeter is built
up with strips of particleboard screwed to
Backsplash the bottom of the core. For decorative edge
treatments, hardwood strips can be
Laminate attached to the core. Laminate pieces are
bonded to the countertop with contact
cement. The edges are trimmed or shaped
Shaped edge Hardwood edge with a router.
Contact cement
Particleboard core
Buildup strip
Specialty tools & supplies for building a

custom laminate countertop include: contact
cement thinner (A), contact cement (B), latex
wood patch (C), wood glue (D), paint roller
B (E), J-roller (F), miter box (G), wallboard
screws (H), flush-cutting router bit (I), 15˚
E
F bevel-cutting router bit (J), straight router bit
(K), roundover router bit (L), cove router bit
C (M), silicone caulk (N), file (O), scoring tool
D (P), scribing compass (Q), 3-way clamps—for
A G installing hardwood edging (R).
P H
R
N I
J
O
M L K
Remodeling Kitchens/ Laminate Countertop 487

Remodeling Kitchens
Building a Custom Laminate Countertop
A
A B
E R
C D
Add 1-inch overhang
Measure along the tops of the base cabinets to determine the size of the countertop. If the ments (A, B, C, D) from the reference line to the cabinet ends. Allow for overhangs by adding
wall corners are not square, use a framing square to establish a reference line (R) near the 1" to the length for each exposed end, and 1" to the width (E). If an end butts against an
middle of the base cabinets, perpendicular to the front of the cabinets. Take four measure- appliance, subtract 1⁄16" from the length to prevent scratching the appliance.
B
Backsplash core
Countertop core
Buildup strips
Transfer the measurements from step A, using a framing square to establish a reference line. Cut the core to size using a circular saw with a clamped straightedge as a guide. Cut 4" strips
of particleboard for the backsplash, and for joint supports where sections of the countertop core are butted together. Cut 3"-wide strips for edge buildups.

C D
Core
seam
Laminate
Buildup strips seam
Attach 3" edge buildup strips to the bottom of the countertop, using glue and 11⁄4" wallboard To determine the size of the laminate top, measure the countertop core. For strength, lami-
screws. Fill any gaps on the outside edges with latex wood patch, then sand the edges with nate seams should run opposite to core seams. Add 1⁄2" trimming margin to both the length
a belt sander. (For decorative edge treatments, see page 494.) and width of each piece. Measure the laminate needed for the face and edges of the back-
splash, and for any exposed edges of countertop core. Add 1⁄2" to each measurement.
E F
A plus 1⁄8"
Trimmed edge
To cut the laminate, draw a line, then etch along the line with a scoring tool, using a straight- Trim edges that will butt together, using a router and a straightedge. Measure from the cut-
edge as a guide. Make two passes with the scoring tool. Bend the laminate toward the scored ting edge of the bit to the edge of the router baseplate (A). Place the laminate on scrap wood
line until the sheet breaks cleanly. For narrow pieces, clamp a straightedge along the scored and align the edges. To guide the router, clamp a straightedge on the laminate at distance
line before bending the laminate (inset). Wear gloves to avoid being cut by any sharp edges. A plus 1⁄8", parallel to laminate edge. Trim the laminate.

Remodeling Kitchens
Building a Custom Laminate Countertop (cont.)
G H
Apply laminate to the sides of the countertop first. Using a paint roller, apply two coats of Use a router and flush-cutting bit to trim the edge strip flush with top and bottom surfaces
contact cement to the edge of the countertop and one coat to the back of the laminate. Let of the countertop core. At the edges where the router cannot reach, trim the excess laminate
the cement dry according to the manufacturer’s directions. Position the laminate carefully, with a file. Apply laminate to the remaining edges, and trim them with a router.
then press it against the edge of the countertop. Bond the laminate with a J-roller.
Trimmed edge
Reference
line
Test-fit the laminate top on the countertop core. Check that the laminate overhangs all edges. of 1⁄4"-thick scrap wood at 6" intervals across the countertop core. Because the contact cement
At the seam locations, draw a reference line on the core where the laminate edges will butt bonds instantly, spacers allow the laminate to be positioned accurately over the core without
together. Remove the laminate. Make sure all the surfaces are free of dust, then apply one bonding. Align the laminate with the seam reference line. Beginning at one end, remove the
coat of contact cement to back of the laminate and two coats to the core. Place spacers made spacers and press the laminate to countertop core.

J
Butt seam
Apply contact cement to the remaining core and the next piece of laminate. Let the cement dry, then position the laminate on spacers, and carefully align the butt seam. Beginning at the
seam edge, remove the spacers and press the laminate to the counter-top core. Roll the entire surface with a J-roller to bond the laminate to the core (inset). Clean off any excess contact
cement with a soft cloth and contact cement thinner.
K L M
Remove any excess laminate with a router and flush-cutting Finish-trim the edges with the router and a 15˚ bevel-cutting File all edges smooth. Use downward file strokes to avoid
bit. At the edges where the router cannot reach, trim the bit. Set the bit depth so that the bevel edge is cut only on the chipping the laminate. Remove excess contact cement with
excess laminate with a file. The countertop is now ready for a top laminate layer. The bit should not cut into the surface of contact cement thinner.
final trimming with a bevel-cutting bit. the vertical edge.

Remodeling Kitchens
Building a Custom Laminate Countertop (cont.)
N O
Scribing
strip
Scribing
strip
Cut 11⁄4"-wide strips of 1⁄4" plywood to form an overhanging scribing strip for the backsplash. Test-fit the countertop and the backsplash. Because the walls may be uneven, use a compass
Attach it to the top and sides of the backsplash core with glue and 11⁄4" wallboard screws. Cut to trace the wall outline onto the backsplash scribing strip. Use a belt sander to grind back-
the laminate pieces to size and apply them to exposed sides, top, and front of the backsplash. splash to the scribe line (see page 484).
Trim each piece after it is applied.
P Q JR
Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of the back- Position the backsplash on the countertop, and clamp it into Screw 2" wallboard screws through the countertop into the
splash. place with bar clamps. Wipe away any excess caulk, and let backsplash core. Make sure the screwheads are countersunk
the seam dry completely. completely for a tight fit against the base cabinet. See pages
484 to 485 to install the countertop.

Building a Stainless Steel
Laminate Countertop
If you crave the look of stainless steel in your kitchen but find the price of
custom-fabricated stainless steel countertops beyond your means, here’s
a possible solution. Metal laminates are available that have metal foil
attached to the same phenolic back as plastic laminates (see pages 486
to 492). These laminates are as easy to work with as plastic laminates, if
you use high-quality carbide blades and tips while sawing and routing.
The stainless steel laminate must be rated for horizontal surface use.
Many of the metal laminates available are for vertical, decorative use—
which is suitable for a backsplash, but not a countertop. Like their
plastic counterparts, metal laminates are susceptible to heat and water
damage.
Wear gloves when working with metal laminates, as the edges of the
metal foil are razor sharp. Be especially aware
of this if you choose to create a self-edged
countertop (see tips below) as opposed
to a counter with a wood edge. File
the edges carefully to eliminate
all snags and sharp areas.
Tips for Cutting Metal Laminates
Use a jig saw with a carbide blade to cut laminate sheets Use a router with a carbide flush-cutting bit to cut the
to rough size. Masking tape prevents the saw base from metal laminate to exact size after it has been glued to the
scratching the laminate. substrate.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Stainless Steel Laminate Countertop 493

Remodeling Kitchens
Making Custom Wood Countertop Edges
For an elegant touch, add hardwood edges to
Solid hardwood edge your laminate countertops. Choose edging of
solid hardwood, such as oak, maple, hickory,
or cherry. Shape the edges with a router before
attaching the backsplash to the countertop.
Secure the edging to the countertop core
with wood glue and finish nails. You can stain
the exposed wood if desired. To prevent water
damage, finish all exposed edging with several
Coved edge
coats of durable varnish, such as polyurethane.
Tools: Drill, nail set, 3-way clamps,

finish nails, belt sander with 120-grit
sanding belt, router, router bits.
Materials: 1 × 2 hardwood strips, wood
Rounded edge glue, 220-grit sandpaper, stain (if
desired), wood finishing materials.
Building Solid Hardwood Edges

A B
Hardwood
Particleboard core edge
Roundover bit
Laminate the top of the countertop (see pages 486 to 493), then attach the edge strip flush Mold the top and bottom edges of the strip with a router and edging bit, if desired. Stain and
with the surface of the laminate, using wood glue and finish nails (see steps A and B, finish the wood as desired.
page 495).
494 Remodeling Kitchens/ Countertop Edges

Building Covered Hardwood Edges
A B C
Cut 1 × 2 hardwood strips to fit the edges of the countertop. Attach the edge strips to the countertop with wood glue and Sand the edge strips flush with the top surface of the coun-
Sand the strips smooth. Miter-cut inside and outside corners. 3-way clamps. Drill pilot holes, then attach the strips with fin- tertop, using a belt sander and 120-grit sanding belt.
ish nails. Recess nail heads with a nail set.
D E
Piloted cove bit
Particleboard core
Hardwood edge
Apply laminate to the edge and top of the countertop (see pages 486 to 492). Cut a coved edge, using a router and cove bit with a ball-bearing pilot. Smooth the cove with
220-grit sandpaper. File the outer edges of the laminate to remove any sharpness. Stain and
finish exposed wood as desired.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Countertop Edges 495

Remodeling Kitchens
Building a Ceramic Tile Countertop
Ceramic tile is a popular choice for countertops While glazing protects tile from stains, the
and backsplashes for a number of reasons. It’s grout between tiles is still vulnerable because Tools: Tape measure, circular saw, drill,
available in a vast range of sizes, styles, and it’s so porous. To minimize staining, use a utility knife, straightedge, stapler, wall-
colors; it’s durable and can be repaired; and some grout that contains a latex additive, or mix the board knife, framing square, notched
tile—not all—is reasonably priced. With care- grout using a liquid latex additive. After the trowel, tile cutter, carpeted 2 × 4, mallet,
rubber grout float, sponge, foam brush,
ful planning, tile is also easy to install, making a grout cures fully, apply a quality grout sealer,
caulk gun.
custom countertop a good do-it-yourself project. and reapply the sealer once a year thereafter.
The best tile for most countertops is glazed The countertop in this project has a core of Materials: Ceramic tile, tile spacers,
ceramic floor tile. Glazed tile is better than 3
⁄4" exterior-grade plywood that’s cut to fit and
3
⁄4" exterior-grade (CDX) plywood, 4-mil
unglazed because of its stain resistance, and fastened to the cabinets. (Treated plywood, polyethylene sheeting, packing tape,
floor tile is better than wall tile because it’s particleboard, and oriented-strand board are not
1
⁄2" cementboard, 11⁄4" galvanized deck
screws, fiberglass mesh tape, thin-set
harder and more durable. Most residential acceptable tile backers.) The plywood is covered
mortar, grout with latex additive,
floor tile has a hardness rating of Class 3 or with a layer of plastic (for a moisture barrier) and silicone caulk, silicone grout sealer.
better. Porcelain tile also is suitable for coun- a layer of 1⁄2"-thick cementboard. Cementboard
tertops; it’s very hard and durable, but typically is an effective backer for tile because it won’t
much more expensive than ceramic tile. break down if water gets through the tile layer.
496 Remodeling Kitchens/ Tile Countertop

Backsplash
Bullnose tiles
Grout
Field tiles
Thin-set
adhesive layer Fiberglass
wallboard
Cementboard tape
Cementboard
edge strip
Plastic
sheeting
Thin-set Plywood core
fill layer
Plywood
buildup strip
(optional)
A ceramic tile countertop starts with a core of 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood that’s covered with a waterproofing membrane of 4-mil polyethylene sheeting. 1⁄2" cementboard is screwed to
the plywood, and the edges are capped with cementboard and finished with fiberglass mesh tape and thin-set mortar. Tiles for edging and backsplashes may be bullnose or other type
of specialty tile (see below).
The tile is adhered to the cementboard with thin-set adhesive. The the floor or against the wall to level it, if necessary.
overall thickness of the finished countertop is about 11⁄2". If you want a Installing batten along the front edge of the countertop helps ensure the
thicker countertop, you can fasten an additional layer of plywood (of any first row of tile is perfectly straight. For V-cap tiles, fasten a 1 × 2 batten
thickness) to the core. Two layers of 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood without along the reference line, using screws. The first row of field tile is placed
cementboard is also an acceptable substrate. against this batten. For bullnose tiles, fasten a batten that’s the same thick-
When laying out the tile for your countertop, account for the place- ness as the edging tile, plus 1⁄8" for mortar thickness, to the face of the
ment of the sink and any other fixtures. The tile should break evenly countertop so the top is flush with the top of the counter. The bullnose
where it meets the sink and along the counter’s perimeter. If you’ll be tiles are aligned with the outside edge of the batten. For wood edge
installing a tile-in sink, make sure the tile thickness matches the rim of trim, fasten a 1 × 2 batten to the face of the countertop so the top edge
the sink to create a smooth transition. is above the top of the counter. The tiles are installed against the batten.
You can lay tile over a laminate countertop that’s square, level, and struc- Before installing any tile, lay out the tiles in a dry run using spacers. If
turally sound. Use a belt sander with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper to rough your counter is L-shaped, start at the corner and work outward.
up the surface before setting the tiles. The laminate cannot have a no-drip Otherwise, start the layout at a sink to ensure equal-sized cuts on both
edge. If you’re using a new substrate, remove the existing countertop. sides of the sink. If necessary, shift your starting point so you don’t end
Make sure the base cabinets are level front to back, side to side, and with up cutting very narrow tile segments.
adjoining cabinets. Unscrew a cabinet from the wall and use shims on
Remodeling Kitchens/ Tile Countertop 497

Remodeling Kitchens
Laying Out Tile Countertop Projects
V-cap Wood edge
Cut field tile with bullnose Borderstrip edging
Before you select tile, consider how you want to handle the backsplash and edging, and find out what trim pieces are available in the tile you want to use. You’ll probably want to use a
combination of field tile and edge tile, trim, or borders to create an attractive backsplash and edging.
Options for Backsplashes & Countertop Edges
Hardwood
Standard edging
tile (cut) Cove tile
Cove tile
V-cap
edge tile
Cementboard
Plywood
Backsplashes can be made from cove tile (right) attached to the wall at the back of the coun- Edge options include V-cap edge tile and hardwood strip edging. V-cap tiles have raised and
tertop. You can use the tile alone or build a shelf-type backsplash (left), using the same rounded corners that create a ridge around the countertop perimeter—good for containing
construction used for the countertop. Attach the plywood backsplash to the plywood core of spills and water. V-cap tiles must be cut with a tile saw. Hardwood strips should be prefin-
countertop. Wrap the front face and all edges of the plywood backsplash with cementboard ished with at least three coats of polyurethane. Attach the strips to the plywood core so the
before laying the tile. top of the wood will be flush with the faces of the tiles.
498 Remodeling Kitchens/ Countertop Edges

Creating Starting Lines for Countertops
A B
Batten placement for wood edge
Batten placement for bullnose edge
Batten placement for V-cap
If using V-cap tile, place it along the front edge of the substrate at one end of the countertop. Install battens along the edge of the countertop with screws to help line up the tile.
Make a mark along the rear edge of the tile. Do the same at the opposite end of the counter-
top, then snap a chalk line between marks. Do this along the sides of the countertop as well.
Laying Out Countertop Tile

A B
Lay out tiles and spacers in a dry run. Adjust starting lines, if necessary. If using battens, lay Place the first row of field tile against the edge tile, separating the tile with spacers. Lay out
the field tile flush with the battens, then apply edge tile. Otherwise, install the edging first. If the remaining rows of tile. Adjust starting lines if necessary to create a layout using the least
the countertop has an inside corner, start there by installing a ready-made inside corner or number of cut tiles.
cutting a 45° miter in edge tile to make your own inside corner.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Countertop Edges 499

Remodeling Kitchens
Building a Ceramic Tile Countertop
A
Overhang here
Overhang here
Overhang
here
Determine the size of the plywood core by measuring across the top of the cabinets. The finished top should overhang the drawer fronts by at least 1⁄4". Be sure to account for the thickness of the
cementboard, adhesive, and tile when deciding how large to make the overhang. Cut the core to size from 3⁄4" plywood, using a circular saw. Also make any cutouts for sinks and other fixtures.
B C
Corner
bracket
⁄8" gap
1
1
⁄4" gap
Set the core on top of the cabinets, and attach it with screws Cut pieces of cementboard and dry-fit them on the plywood Tip: Cut cementboard using a straightedge and utility knife
driven through the cabinet corner brackets. The screws core with the rough sides of the panels facing up. Leave a 1⁄8" or a cementboard cutter with a carbide tip. Hold the
should not be long enough to go through the top of the ply- gap between the cementboard sheets and a 1⁄4" gap along straightedge along the cutting line, and score the board sev-
wood core. the perimeter. eral times with the knife. Bend the piece backward to break it
along the scored line. Back-cut to finish.

D E
Lay the plastic moisture barrier over the plywood core, draping it over the edges. Tack it in Lay the cementboard pieces rough-side-up on the plywood and attach them with 11⁄4" galva-
place with a few staples. Overlap the seams in plastic by 6", and seal them with packing tape. nized deck screws driven every 6". If needed, predrill holes through the cementboard, using a
masonry bit. Make sure all screw heads are flush with the surface. Wrap the countertop edges
with 11⁄4"-wide cementboard strips, and attach them to the core with deck screws.
F G
Tape all cementboard joints with fiberglass mesh wallboard tape. Apply three layers of tape Fill all gaps and cover all of the tape with a layer of thin-set mortar. Feather out the mortar
along the front edge where the horizontal cementboard sheets meet the cementboard edging. to create a smooth, flat surface, using a wallboard knife.

Remodeling Kitchens
Building a Tile Countertop (cont.)
H
Dry-fit tiles on the countertop to find the layout that works best. If the tiles do not have spacing lugs on their edges, use plastic spacers to set the grout-joint gaps between tiles. Once the
layout is established, make marks along the vertical and horizontal rows. Draw reference lines through the marks and use a framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicular.
I J K
Bullnose
edges
Install the edge tiles by applying a layer of thin-set mortar to Use bullnose corner tile (with adjacent bullnose edges) to fin- Install the field tile after the edge tiles have set. Spread a
the back of the tile and the edges of the countertop, using a ish the corner edges of the countertop. Place dry tile layer of thin-set on the cementboard along the layout lines,
notched trowel. Use a dry tile set on top of the countertop to glazed-side down on the edge face. Mark and cut the tile so and install perpendicular rows of tile. Make sure the spacing
determine the height of the edge tiles. Place the tiles with a the bullnose edge will sit directly on the corner. Install the is correct, and use a framing square to check your work as
slight twisting motion. Add plastic spacers, if needed. piece with thin-set mortar. you go.

L M
To mark border tiles for cutting, allow space for backsplash tiles, grout, and mortar by plac- As you install small sections of tile, lay a carpeted 2 × 4 scrap over the tile and tap it lightly
ing a tile against the back wall. Set another tile (A) on top of the last full tile in the field, then with a mallet. Run your hand over the tiles to make sure they are flush with one another.
place a third tile (B) over tile A and hold it against the upright tile. Mark and cut tile A and Remove any plastic spacers with a toothpick, and scrape any excess mortar from the grout
install it with the cut edge toward the wall. See pages 308 to 309 for tile cutting tips. joints. Let the mortar dry completely.
N O
Mix a batch of grout with a latex additive and apply it with a rubber float, forcing the grout Caulk along the backsplash and around penetrations with a fine bead of silicone caulk.
into the joints with a sweeping motion. Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge. Wait Smooth the bead with a wet finger. After the grout cures completely, apply silicone sealer to
one hour and wipe away the powdery haze. Let the grout cure fully. the grout with a foam brush. Let the sealer dry, and apply a second coat.

Remodeling Kitchens
Tiling a Backsplash
There are few spaces in your home with as much potential for creativity
and visual impact as the space between your kitchen countertop and
cupboards. A well-designed backsplash can transform the ordinary into
the extraordinary.
Tiles for the backsplash can be attached directly to wallboard or plas-
ter and do not require backerboard. When purchasing the tile, order
10% extra to cover breakage and cutting. Remove switch and receptacle
coverplates and install box extenders to make up for the extra thickness
of the tile. Protect the countertop from scratches by covering it with a
drop cloth. See pages 308 to 309 for tile cutting tips.
Tools: Level, tape measure, pencil, tile cutter, rod saw, notched
trowel, rubber grout float, beating block, rubber mallet,
sponge, bucket.
Materials: Straight 1 × 2, wall tile, tile spacers (if needed), bull-
nose trim tile, mastic tile adhesive, masking tape, grout, caulk,
drop cloth, grout sealer.
Tips for Planning Tile Layouts
Gather planning brochures and design catalogs to help you Break tiles into fragments and make a mosaic backsplash. Add painted mural tiles to create a focal point. Mixing var-
create decorative patterns and borders for the backsplash. Always use a sanded grout for joints wider than 1⁄8". ious tile styles adds an appealing contrast.
504 Remodeling Kitchens/ Tile Backsplash

Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash
A B
Make a story stick by marking a board at least half as long as the backsplash area to match Starting at the midpoint of the installation area, use the story stick to make layout marks
the tile spacing. along the wall. If an end piece is too small (less than half a tile), adjust the midpoint to give
you larger, more attractive end pieces. Use a level to mark this point with a vertical reference
line.
While it may appear straight, your countertop may not be level and therefore is not a reliable reference line. Run a level along the counter to find the lowest point on the countertop. Mark
a point two tiles up from the low point and extend a level line across the entire work area.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Tile Backsplash 505

Remodeling Kitchens
Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash (cont.)
Field Border
Variation: Diagonal Layout. Mark vertical and horizontal reference lines, making sure the angle is 90°. To establish diagonal layout lines, measure out equal distances from the crosspoint,
then connect the points with a line. Additional layout lines can be extended from these as needed. To avoid the numerous, unattractive perimeter cuts common to diagonal layouts, try using a
standard border pattern as shown. Diagonally set a field of full tiles only, then cut enough half tiles to fill out the perimeter. Finally, border the diagonal field with tiles set square to the field.
D E F
Apply mastic adhesive evenly to the area beneath the hori- Starting at the vertical reference line, press tiles into the Install a whole row along the reference line, checking occa-
zontal reference line, using a notched trowel. Comb the adhesive with a slight twisting motion. If the tiles are not self- sionally to make sure the tiles are level. Continue installing
adhesive horizontally with the notched edge. spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain even grout lines. If tiles below the first row, trimming tiles that butt against the
the tiles do not hang in place, use masking tape to hold them countertop as needed.
in place until the adhesive sets.
506 Remodeling Kitchens/ Tile Backsplash

G H I
Apply adhesive to an area above the line and continue plac- When the tiles are in place, make sure they are flat and firmly Mix the grout and apply it with a rubber grout float. Spread
ing tiles, working from the center to the sides. Install trim tile, embedded by laying a beating block against the tile and it over the tiles, keeping the float at a low 30° angle, pressing
such as bullnose tile, to the edges of the rows. rapping it lightly with a mallet. Remove the spacers. Allow the grout deep into the joints. Note: For grout joints 1⁄8" and
the mastic to dry for at least 24 hours, or as directed by the smaller, be sure to use a nonsanded grout.
manufacturer.
J K
Wipe off excess grout, holding the float at a right angle to the tile, working diagonally so as Shape the grout joints by making slow, short passes with the sponge, shaving down any high
not to remove grout from the joints. Clean any remaining grout from the tiles with a damp spots; rinse the sponge frequently. Fill any voids with a fingerful of grout. When the grout has
sponge, working in a circular motion. Rinse the sponge thoroughly and often. dried to a haze, buff the tile clean with a soft cloth. Apply a bead of caulk between the coun-
tertop and tiles. Reinstall any electrical fixtures you removed. After the grout has completely
cured, apply a grout sealer.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Tile Backsplash 507

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing a Kitchen Sink
Kitchen sinks for do-it-yourself installation stainless steel sink is made of heavy 18- or 20- the countertop cutout for a kitchen sink
are made from stainless steel, enameled steel, gauge nickel steel, which holds up well under installation, see pages 484 to 485.
or cast iron coated with enamel. daily use. Lighter steel (designated by num-
Cast-iron sinks are heavy, durable, and rela- bers higher than 20) dents easily.
tively easy to install. Most cast-iron sinks are Some premium-quality sinks are made from Tools: Caulk gun, screwdrivers.
frameless, requiring no mounting hardware. solid-surface material or porcelain and are Materials: Sink, sink frame, mounting
Stainless steel and enameled steel sinks usually installed by professionals. clips, plumber’s putty, silicone caulk.
weigh less than cast iron. They may require a When choosing a sink, make sure the pre-
metal frame and mounting brackets. A good drilled openings will fit your faucet. To make
Installing a Frameless Sink

A B
After making the countertop cutout, lay the sink upside down. Apply a 1⁄4" bead of silicone Position the front of the sink in the countertop cutout, by holding it from the drain openings.
caulk or plumber's putty around the underside of the sink flange. Carefully lower the sink into position. Press down to create a tight seal, then wipe away any
excess caulk. Let the caulk dry completely.
Installing an Undermount Sink

A B C
Mark the sink opening on the countertop and make the Attach the undermount clips to the underside of the coun- Clean the area where the sink will rest on the countertop.
cutout for the sink. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions tertop, next to the sink cutout. Caulk around the edges of the cutout as specified by the sink
for cutting your countertop material. Drill holes for the manufacturer. Then position the sink and tighten the clips.
faucet according to manufacturer’s specifications.
508 Remodeling Kitchens/ Sink

Installing a Kitchen Faucet & Drain
Most new kitchen faucets feature single- Where local codes allow, use plastic piping
handle control levers and washerless designs. for drain hookups. Plastic is inexpensive and Tools: Channel-type pliers, basin wrench
They rarely require maintenance. More expen- easy to install. (if needed), hacksaw.
sive designer styles offer added features, like A wide selection of extensions and angle fit- Materials: Faucet, flexible vinyl or
colorful enameled finishes, detachable spray tings let you easily plumb any sink config- braided steel supply tubes, drain
nozzles, or even digital temperature readouts. uration. Manufacturers offer kits that contain components, plumber’s putty, silicone
Connect the faucet to hot and cold water all the fittings needed for attaching a food dis- caulk.
lines with easy-to-install flexible supply tubes poser or dishwasher to the sink drain system.
made from vinyl or braided steel. See page 81 to install shutoff valves.
Installing a Kitchen Faucet
A. Apply a 1⁄4" bead of plumber’s putty or sili-

cone caulk around base of faucet. Apply putty
around base of spray mount.
B. Insert faucet and sprayer tailpieces into sink

openings. Screw mounting nuts onto tailpieces
and tighten them securely, using channel-type
pliers or a basin wrench.
Sprayer base Faucet base
C. Connect supply tubes to faucet tailpieces,
using channel-type pliers. Attach sprayer hose
to hose stub-out.
Hose stub-out
Tailpiece
Tailpiece
Mounting nut
Mounting nut
D. Connect left supply tube to the hot water

shutoff valve, using channel-type pliers.
E. Attach the right supply tube to the cold

water shutoff valve, using channel-type pliers.
Shutoff
valves
Remodeling Kitchens/ Faucet & Drain 509

Remodeling Kitchens
Attaching Drain Lines
A B C
Slip nut
Slip washer Waste T

Insert washer
Slip nut
Washers
Strainer
Locknut
Install a sink strainer in each sink drain opening. Apply a 1⁄4" Attach the drain tailpiece to the strainer. Place an insert On sinks with two basins, use a continuous waste T-fitting to
bead of plumber's putty around the bottom of the flange. washer in the flared end of the tailpiece, then attach the tail- join the tailpieces. Attach the fitting with slip washers and
Insert a strainer into the drain opening. Place the rubber and piece by screwing a slip nut onto the sink strainer. If nuts. The beveled sides of the washers should face the
fiber washers over the neck of the strainer. Screw a locknut necessary, cut the tailpiece to fit with a hacksaw. threaded portions of the pipes.
onto the neck and tighten it with channel-type pliers.
D E
Threaded drain stub-out
Slip washer
Trap bend
Slip nut
Trap arm
Attach the trap arm to the drain stub-out in the wall, using a slip nut and washer. The Attach the trap bend to the trap arm using slip nuts and washers. The beveled side of the
beveled side of the washer should face the threaded drain stub-out. If necessary, cut the trap washers should face the trap bend. Tighten all the nuts with channel-type pliers.
arm to fit with a hacksaw.
510 Remodeling Kitchens/ Faucet & Drain

Installing a D
Water Filtration System

Water filtration systems are available for whole-house and for point-of-
use applications. Whole-house systems are effective for reducing amounts
of sediment and chlorine. Point-of-use systems are very effective at
reducing lead, chlorine, bacteria, rust, and other contaminants and
typically are used to improve the taste of drinking water. Installing
both provides the best-tasting and safest water. C
A point-of-use water filtration system is easily installed underneath
the kitchen sink. Though most systems are installed in much the same
way, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Our installation
includes a secondary filter and water line that supplies a refrigerator ice
maker; both are optional. If you choose not to install the additional filter
or line, connect the drinking faucet line directly to the main filter unit. A B F
Tools: Drill (for faucet), channel-type pliers. E
Materials: 1⁄4" flexible vinyl mesh tubing, saddle valve, brass

compression fittings, T-coupling (optional), point-of-use filtration A point-of-use water filtration system includes a saddle valve (A), filtration unit (B), T-cou-
unit, refrigerator ice maker filter (optional). pling (C), drinking water faucet (D), refrigerator ice maker line (E), and an additional filter
for the ice maker line (F).
Installing a Point-of-use Filtration System

A B
Mount the filter unit under the sink according to the manufacturer’s directions. Shut off the Install a drinking water faucet on the countertop or sink, following the manufacturer’s direc-
main water supply, then install a saddle valve on the cold water line (see page 71)—make tions. Install a vinyl tube between the faucet tailpiece and the top of the T-coupling (or directly
sure the valve is closed. Connect vinyl mesh tubing from the intake side of the filtration unit to the water filter, if you’re not installing an ice maker line). Attach the ice maker filter to the
to the saddle valve. Attach another tube to the outtake side of the filtration unit. If you’re other outlet on the T-coupling, then run vinyl tubing to the ice maker. Turn on the water and
installing an ice maker filter, attach a T-coupling to the free end of this tube. open the saddle valve. Inspect all connections for leaks.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Water Filt ration 511

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing a Food Disposer
Choose a food disposer with a motor rated at
Upper Sink
mounting sleeve
1
⁄2 horsepower or more. These disposers can
ring handle heavier loads with less chance of jam-
ming. Better models also have a self-reversing
Backup feature to prevent jams and extend the life of
Mounting
ring screw the motor.
Local plumbing codes may require that a
Lower disposer be plugged into a grounded outlet
Dishwasher mounting controlled by a switch above the sink.
nipple ring
Tools: Screwdriver, combination tool,

hacksaw, channel-type pliers, hose
clamps.
Sound Grinding
Materials: 12-gauge appliance cord
insulation ring with grounded plug, wire connectors,
plumber’s putty, hose clamp, continu-
ous waste pipe, silicone caulk.
Discharge Impellers
opening
Installing a Food Disposer

A
Drain Motor
chamber
Remove the plate on the bottom of the disposer. Use a com-

bination tool to strip about 1⁄2" of insulation from each wire
Food disposers grind food waste into a mostly liquid form, so it can be flushed away through the sink drain system. A qual- in the appliance cord. Connect the white wires, using a wire
ity disposer has a 1⁄2-horsepower or larger motor and a self-reversing feature. Also look for added features, such as foam sound connector. Connect the black wires. Attach the green insu-
insulation, a cast-iron grinding ring, corrosion-resistant parts, and overload protection that allows the motor to be reset if it lated wire to the green ground screw. Gently push the wires
overheats. Better food disposers also have 5-year manufacturers’ warranties. into the opening. Replace the bottom plate.
512 Remodeling Kitchens/ Food Disposer

B Flange
C Upper D
mounting
ring
Sleeve Mounting
screw
Fiber
gasket
Lower
mounting
Upper ring
mounting
ring Mounting
lug
Discharge tube
Backup
ring
Mounting
Snap ring ear
Apply a 1⁄4" bead of plumber's putty under the flange of the Tighten the three mounting screws. Hold the disposer against Attach the discharge tube to the discharge opening on the
disposer sink sleeve. Insert the sleeve in the drain opening, the backup ring so that the mounting lugs on the lower side of the disposer, using the rubber washer and metal
and slip the fiber gasket and the upper mounting ring onto mounting ring are directly under the mounting screws. Turn flange.
the sleeve. Place the backup ring on the sleeve and slide the the lower mounting ring clockwise until the disposer is sup-
snap ring into the groove on the sleeve. ported by the mounting assembly.
E F G Mounting lug
Dishwasher
nipple
Lower
mounting
ring
Hose clamp
Continuous
waste
If a dishwasher will be attached to the disposer, knock out the Attach the discharge tube to the continuous waste pipe with Lock the disposer into place by inserting a screwdriver or dis-
plug in the dishwasher nipple, using a screwdriver. Attach a slip washer and nut. If necessary, cut the discharge tube to poser wrench into a mounting lug on the lower mounting
the dishwasher drain hose to the nipple with a hose clamp. fit with a hacksaw or tubing cutter. The washer’s beveled side ring and turning it clockwise until the mounting ears are
should face the waste tube threads. Connect the waste pipe locked. Tighten all drain slip nuts with a channel-type pliers.
to the waste T of the sink drain assembly (see page 510).
Remodeling Kitchens/ Food Disposer 513

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing a Vent Hood
A vent hood removes heat, moisture, and cooking vapors
from your kitchen. It has an electric fan unit with one or
more filters, and a system of metal ducts to vent air to the
outdoors. A ducted vent hood is far more effective than a
ductless model, which filters and recirculates air without
removing it. The National Kitchen and Bath Association
(NKBA) recommends that kitchen ventilation systems have
a minimum rating of 150 cubic feet per minute (cfm).
Metal ducts for a vent hood can be round or rectangular.
Elbows and transition fittings are available for both types of
Elbow Vent hood
ducts. These fittings let you vent around corners or join
fitting
Wall cap duct components that differ in shape or size.
Tools: Drill, stud finder, compass, screwdrivers.

Materials: 1 × 4 lumber, 11⁄4" wallboard screws, duct
sections, adjustable duct elbow, duct cap, 11⁄2" sheet-
metal screws.
Specialty Tools & Materials: See photo, below.
Duct
B C
A
Liner
Wood
panels D
I
E
F
J
M K H G
N
Specialty tools & materials for installing a vent hood include: reciprocating
saw with coarse wood-cutting blade (A), silicone caulk (B), foil duct tape (C),
A wall-mounted vent hood (shown here cutaway) is installed between the wall cabinets. A fan unit is fas- wire connectors (D), I⁄8" twist bit (E), No. 9 counterbore drill bit (F), 3⁄4" sheet-
tened to a metal liner that is anchored to the cabinets. Duct and elbow fittings exhaust cooking vapors to metal screws (G), 21⁄2" sheetmetal screws (H), combination tool (I), masonry
the outdoors through a wall cap. The vent fan and duct are covered by wood or laminate panels that chisel (J), 2" masonry nails (K), aviation snips (L), masonry drill bit (M), ball
match the cabinet finish. peen hammer (N).
514 Remodeling Kitchens/ Vent Hood

Installing a Vent Hood
A B C
Liner
Attach 3⁄4" × 4" × 12" wooden cleats to the sides of the cabi- Position the hood liner between the cleats and attach it with Remove the cover panels for the light, fan, and electrical com-
nets with 11⁄4" wallboard screws. Make sure the screws aren’t 3
⁄4" sheetmetal screws. partments on fan unit, as directed by manufacturer. Position
long enough to penetrate the interior side of the cabinets. the fan unit inside the liner and fasten it by attaching nuts
Follow the manufacturer's directions for the proper distance to the mounting bolts inside the light compartments.
from the cooking surface.
D E
Stud location
Locate the studs in the wall where the duct will pass, using a stud finder. Mark the hole loca- Strip about 1⁄2" of plastic insulation from each wire in the circuit cable, using a combination
tion, using a compass to draw the circular cutout. The hole should be 1⁄2" larger than the tool. Connect the black wires, using a wire connector. Connect the white wires. Gently push
diameter of the duct. Shut off the electrical power to the area, and make sure there are no the wires into the electrical box. Replace the cover panels on the light and fan compartments.
pipes or wires in the wall. Complete the cutout with a reciprocating saw or jig saw. Remove
any wall insulation. Drill a pilot hole through the outside wall (see step F, page 516).
Remodeling Kitchens/ Vent Hood 515

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing a Vent Hood (cont.)
F G
Outlet
flange
Make a duct cutout on the exterior wall. On masonry walls, drill a series of holes around the Attach the first duct section by sliding the smooth end over the outlet flange on the vent hood.
outline of the cutout, using a masonry bit. Remove the waste with a masonry chisel and a Cut the duct sections to length with aviation snips.
ball peen or masonry hammer. On wood siding, make the cutout with a reciprocating saw.
H I J
Drill three or four pilot holes around the joint, through both Join additional duct sections by sliding the smooth end over Install a duct cap on the exterior wall. Apply a thick bead of
layers of metal, using a 1⁄8" twist bit. Attach the duct with 3⁄4" the corrugated end of each preceding section. Use an silicone caulk to the cap flange. Slide the cap over end of
sheetmetal screws. Seal the joint with foil duct tape. adjustable elbow to change directions in the duct run. Secure the duct.
all joints with sheetmetal screws and foil duct tape.
516 Remodeling Kitchens/ Vent Hood

K L
Hood panel
Attach the cap to the wall with 2" masonry nails (or 11⁄2" sheetmetal screws on wood siding). Slide the decorative hood panel into place between the wall cabinets. Drill pilot holes through
Wipe away any excess caulk. the cabinet face frame with a counterbore bit. Attach the hood panel to the cabinets with
21⁄2" sheetmetal screws.
Vent Hood Variations
Blower unit
A downdraft cooktop has a built-in blower unit that vents through the back or the bottom A cabinet-mounted vent hood is attached to the bottom of a 12"- to 18"-tall wall cabinet.
of a base cabinet. A downdraft cooktop is a good choice for a kitchen island or peninsula. A metal duct runs inside the wall cabinet.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Vent Hood 517

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing an
Island Vent Hood
An island vent hood installation is a bit more
complicated because the unit must be supported
from above, and because of the extra ductwork.
Before installation, read the manufacturer’s
instructions carefully for recommended heights
for cooktop and hood installation.
Most island vents weigh over 100 pounds,
so you will need assistance during parts of the
installation. Install the vent hood prior to
installing the cooktop, if possible, to prevent
damage to the cooktop. If not possible, protect
the cooktop and countertop with a heavy mov-
ing pad.
This installation is vented directly through
the roof through attic space above the kitchen.
You can also install the ductwork between ceil-
ing joists and out to a side wall, or you can
build a soffit around the ductwork (see pages
375 to 377).
All vent hoods have a maximum permissible
length for duct runs. The installation instructions
will contain a chart giving equivalent lengths
for each type of duct fitting. For example, a 90°
elbow is the equivalent of 15 ft. of round
straight duct. A round roof cap is the equivalent
of 26 ft. of round straight duct.
Flooring If you have a commercial-grade cooktop, you
will have to install a heavy-duty vent hood.
Check your cooktop manual for venting
requirements.
Ceiling joist
Tools: Measuring tape, plumb bob, lad-

der, wallboard saw, drill, reciprocating
saw, screwdriver, wire stripper.
2x
Materials: 6" round duct, roof vent,
2x 2 × 4 lumber, 3" #10 wood screws,
sheetmetal screws, NM cable, wire con-
nectors, tape, metallic duct tape, duct
straps.
Ceiling
Variation: If you must install ductwork in the ceiling joists, turn one 2 × 4 brace flat to allow the duct to fit between the
2 × 4 and the flooring above.
518 Remodeling Kitchens/ Island Vent Hood

Installing an Island Vent Hood
A B
The manufacturer’s directions will tell you the distance from the front of the vent to the duct Cut two lengths of 2 × 4 to fit between the joists. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for
centerline and the necessary vent hood alignment over the cooktop. Use a plumb bob to find the correct distance between the braces. Place the braces flush against the ceiling top. Drill
the position of the duct centerline over the cooktop. Mark the location of the duct centerline pilot holes and install with a minimum of two 3" #10 wood screws driven through the joist
on the ceiling by poking a 12" length of hanger wire through the ceiling. In the attic, pull and into the brace. The cross bracing and the ceiling surface must be level for proper instal-
back the insulation surrounding the wire and the adjoining joists. Center a section of 6" duct lation of the vent hood. Insert the 6" round duct through the ceiling so it extends down 3 or 4
over the wire hole and trace around it to mark the cutout for the duct. Using a wallboard inches. This must be a female or external connection. Attach lengths of duct until you reach
saw or a rotary saw, cut out the hole. the roof deck.
C D
Vent
cover
flange
Draw an outline of the duct on the roof deck. Drill a pilot hole, then saw through the sheath- Remove a section of shingles from around the cutout, leaving the roofing paper intact.
ing and roofing material with a reciprocating saw to make the cutout for the vent tailpiece. Remove enough shingles to create an exposed area that is at least the size of the vent cover
flange.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Island Vent Hood 519

Remodeling Kitchens
Installing an Island Vent Hood (cont.)
E F G
If the hole for the vent does not abut a rafter, attach a 2 × 4 Apply roofing cement to the bottom of the vent cover flange, Complete installation of the ductwork by securing each joint
brace between the roof rafters. Attach a hose clamp to the then slide the vent cover over the tailpiece. Nail the vent cover with self-tapping sheetmetal screws. Wrap each joint with
brace or rafter about 1" below the roof sheathing (top). Insert flange into place with self-sealing roofing nails, then patch in metallic duct tape. Support the duct as it passes through the
the vent tailpiece into the cutout and through the hose shingles around the cover. ceiling with duct straps.
clamp, then tighten the clamp screw (bottom).
H I
Secure the upper support frame to the ceiling joists or the cross bracing with the screws pro- In the attic, run a branch circuit from a nearby junction box. (This may be a job for an elec-
vided. The screws must be driven into the center of the joists or cross braces. Check to make trician.) Route the cable through the ceiling hole. Pull the cable to reach the junction box,
sure the frame is level in all directions. Insert the lower support frame and secure loosely. approximately 6" below the frame support. Tape the cable to the frame support.
Adjust the lower support frame to the desired height above the countertop and tighten the
screws. Check again that the support frame is level and plumb.
520 Remodeling Kitchens/ Island Vent Hood

J K
Measure from the bottom of the duct flange in the ceiling to the bottom of the support frame. Slide the top decorative duct cover over the support frame to the ceiling and attach it to the
Add 1" for insertion into the ceiling duct and subtract 13⁄4" for the hood insertion. (This will support frame using the supplied decorative screws. Slide the bottom decorative duct cover
vary; check the manufacturer’s dimensions.) Cut 6" round duct to this length. Install the duct over the support frame and the top duct cover. Secure with the provided stop screw to hold it
and attach with sheetmetal screws and metallic duct tape. in place while the hood is installed.
L M
With a helper, lift the hood up to the support frame. Align the hood mounting studs with the Strip 8" of cable. Thread the cable through a cable clamp and through a knockout into the
support frame holes and guide the hood duct connector into the house duct. Install the nuts junction box. Connect the white supply wire to the white vent wire with a wire connector.
and lock washers to the mounting studs and tighten. Check that the hood is level in all direc- Connect the black supply wire to the black vent wire. Connect the green or bare supply wire
tions. Make sure the duct is positioned over the hood connector. Seal the joint with metallic to the green or yellow vent wire. Push the wires into the junction box and replace the cover
duct tape, not screws. without pinching the wires. Remove the stop screw and slide down the decorative cover.
Remodeling Kitchens/ Island Vent Hood 521

R E M O D E L I N G
B AT H R O O M S
Plumbing a Half Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
Plumbing a Master Bath . . . . . . . . . . . 526
Plumbing a Basement Bath . . . . . . . . . 534
Installing a Macerating Toilet . . . . . . . 540
Wiring a Bathroom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542
Installing Vanity Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
Building a Shower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546
Installing a Bathtub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549
Building a Custom-tiled
Shower Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
Installing a Whirlpool . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560
Installing Bathtub Surrounds. . . . . . . . 566
Installing Faucets & Spouts . . . . . . . . . 568
Installing Vanities & Sinks . . . . . . . . . . 571
Installing a Toilet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
Installing a Bathroom Vent Fan . . . . . . 578
Installing Grab Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 582
Remodeling Bathrooms
Plumbing a Half Bath

Vent
pipe
Drain
pipe
Main waste and
vent stack
A first-story half bath is easy to install when located behind a

kitchen or existing bathroom, because you can take advantage of acces-
sible supply and DWV lines. It is possible to add a half bath in an
upper story or in a location distant from existing plumbing, but the
complexity and cost of the project may be increased considerably.
Be sure that the new fixtures are adequately vented. In the project
overview shown here, the pedestal sink is vented with a pipe that runs
up the wall a few feet before turning to join the main stack. However,
if there are higher fixtures draining into the main stack, you would be
required to run the vent up to a point at least 6" above the highest
fixture before splicing it into the main stack or an existing vent pipe.
When the toilet is located within 6 ft. of the stack, as in this design, it
requires no additional vent pipe. If installing additional vent pipe will
be very difficult, check local code to see if air admittance values are
permitted (see pages 436 to 437).
The techniques for plumbing a half bath are similar to those used
for a master bathroom. Refer to pages 526 to 533 for more detailed
information. In our demonstration half bath, the toilet and sink are close to the main stack for ease of
installation but are spaced far enough apart to meet minimum allowed distances between
fixtures. Check the local code for any restrictions in your area. Generally, there should be
at least 15" from the center of the toilet drain to a side wall or fixture, and a minimum of 21"
of space between the front edge of the toilet and the wall.
524 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Half Bath

Plumbing a Half Bath
A B
Toilet
bend
Waste
T-fittings Sweep
elbow
Locate the main waste-vent stack in the wet wall, and remove the wall surface behind the In the basement, cut away a section of the stack and insert two waste T-fittings. The top fit-
planned location for the toilet and sink. Cut a 41⁄2"-dia. hole for the toilet flange (centered 12" ting should have a 3" side inlet for the toilet drain; the bottom fitting requires a 11⁄2" reducing
from the wall, for most toilets). Drill two 3⁄4" holes through the bottom plate for the sink sup- bushing for the sink drain. Install a toilet bend and 3" drain pipe for the toilet, and install a
ply lines and one hole for the toilet supply line. Drill a 2" hole for the sink drain. 11⁄2" drain pipe with a sweep elbow for the sink.
C D
Tap into the water distribution pipes with 3⁄4" × 1⁄2" reducing T-fittings, then run 1⁄2" copper sup- Attach drop ear elbows to the ends of the supply pipes, and anchor them to blocking installed
ply pipes through the holes in the bottom plate to the sink and toilet. Support all pipes at between studs. Anchor the drain pipe to the blocking, then run a vertical vent pipe from the
4-ft. intervals with strapping attached to the joists. waste T-fitting up the wall to a point at least 6" above the highest fixture on the main stack.
Then, route the vent pipe horizontally and splice it into the vent stack with a vent T.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Half Bath 525

Plumbing a Master Bath
11⁄2"
vent
11⁄2" pipe
vent
pipe 11⁄2"
vent
pipe
11⁄2"
drain pipe
11⁄2" drain pipe
3" main waste stack

2" vent pipe
2" drain pipe
A large bathroom has more plumbing fixtures and consumes more

water than any other room in your house. For this reason, a master
bath has special plumbing needs.
Frame bathroom wet walls with 2 × 6 studs, to provide plenty of
room for running 3" pipes and fittings. If your bathroom includes a
heavy whirlpool tub, you will need to reinforce the floor by installing
sister joists alongside the existing floor joists underneath the tub.
When making any alterations to floors or load-bearing walls, includ-
ing adding sister joists, installing joist headers, and notching and
boring framing members, be sure to follow all requirements prescribed
by the local building code. The chart on page 96 lists some typical
allowable sizes for holes and notches cut into framing members.
For convenience, this project overview is divided into the following
sequences:
• Installing DWV Pipes for the Toilet & Sink
(pages 527 to 529).
• Installing DWV Pipes for the Tub & Shower
(pages 530 to 531). Our demonstration bathroom is a second-story master bath. We are installing a 3" vertical
• Connecting the Drain Pipes & Vent Pipes drain pipe to service the toilet and the pedestal sink, and a 2" vertical pipe to handle the tub
to the Main Waste-vent Stack (page 532). and shower drains. The branch drains for the sink and bathtub are 11⁄2" pipes; for the shower,
• Installing the Water Supply Pipes (page 533) . 2" pipe. Each fixture has its own vent pipe extending up into the attic, where they are joined
together and connected to the main stack.
526 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Master Bath

Installing DWV Pipes for the Toilet & Sink
A B
Use masking tape to outline the locations of the fixtures and pipe runs on the subfloor and Cut out the drain opening for the toilet, using a jig saw. Mark and remove a section of sub-
walls. Mark the location for a 3" vertical drain pipe on the bottom plate in the wall behind floor around the toilet area, large enough to provide access for installing the toilet drain and
the toilet. Mark a 41⁄2"-dia. circle for the toilet drain on the subfloor. for running drain pipe from the sink. Make the cuts using a circular saw with the blade set
to the thickness of the subfloor.
C D E
If a floor joist interferes with the toilet drain, cut away a short To create a path for the vertical 3" drain pipe, cut a 41⁄2" × 12" Mark the location for the 3" drain pipe on the basement ceil-
section of the joist and box-frame the area with double head- notch in the bottom plate of the wall behind the toilet. Make ing, then drill a small test hole up through the center of the
ers. (Check the local building code regarding the a similar cutout in the double wall plate at the bottom of the marked area. Direct the beam of a bright flashlight up into
construction and fastening requirements for double head- joist cavity. From the basement, locate the point directly the hole, then return to the bathroom and look down into the
ers.) The framed opening should be just large enough to below the cutout by measuring from a reference point, such wall cavity. If you can see light, return to the basement and
install the toilet and sink drains. as the main waste-vent stack. cut a 41⁄2"-dia. hole centered over the test hole.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Master Bath 527

Installing DWV Pipes for the Toilet & Sink (cont.)

F G
Low-heel
vent 90°
fitting
Y-fitting
Lower the pipe so the bottom end slides through the opening in the basement ceiling. Support
the pipe with vinyl pipe strap wrapped around the low-heel vent 90° fitting and screwed to
framing members.
Measure and cut a length of 3" drain pipe to reach from the bathroom floor cavity to a point Use a length of 3" pipe and a 4" × 3" reducing elbow to extend the drain out to the toilet
flush with the bottom of the ceiling joists in the basement. Solvent-glue a 3" × 3" × 11⁄2" Y-fitting location. Make sure the drain slopes at least 1⁄8" per ft. toward the wall, then support it with
to the top of the pipe, and a low-heel vent 90° fitting above the Y. The branch inlet on the Y pipe strap attached to the joists. Insert a short length of pipe into the elbow, so it extends at
should face toward the sink location; the front inlet on the low-heel should face forward. least 2" above the subfloor. After the new drains are pressure tested, this stub-out will be cut
Carefully lower the pipe into the wall cavity. flush with the subfloor and fitted with a toilet flange.

I
Waste T
Sweep 90° elbow
Notch out the bottom plate and subfloor below the sink location. Cut a length of 11⁄2" plastic branch of the T should face out, and the discharge on the elbow should face toward the
drain pipe, then solvent-glue a waste T to the top of the pipe and a sweep 90° elbow to the bot- toilet. Adjust the pipe so the top edge of the elbow nearly touches the bottom of the bottom
tom. NOTE: The distance from the subfloor to the center of the waste T should be 14" to 18". The plate. Anchor it with pipe strap and a 3⁄4"-thick backing board nailed between studs.
J K
Toilet
vent
pipe
Dry-fit lengths of 11⁄2" drain pipe and elbows to extend the sink drain to the 3" drain pipe In the top plates of the walls behind the sink and toilet, bore 1⁄2"-dia. holes up into the attic.
behind the toilet. Use a right-angle drill to bore holes in the joists, if needed. Make sure the Insert pencils or dowels into the holes, and tape them in place. Enter the attic and locate
horizontal drain pipe slopes at least 1⁄4" per ft. toward the vertical drain. When satisfied with the pencils, then clear away any insulation and cut 2"-dia. holes for the vertical vent pipes.
the layout, solvent-glue the pieces together and support the drain pipe with vinyl pipe straps Cut and install 11⁄2" vent pipes running from the toilet and sink drains and extending at
attached to the joists. least 1 ft. up into the attic.

Installing DWV Pipes for the Tub & Shower
A B
On the subfloor, use masking tape to mark the locations of the tub and shower, the water When installing a large whirlpool tub, cut away the subfloor to expose the full length of the
supply pipes, and the tub and shower drains, according to your plumbing plan. Use a jig saw joists under the tub, then nail, screw, or bolt a second joist, called a sister, against each exist-
to cut out a 12"-square opening for each drain, and drill 1"-dia. holes in the subfloor for each ing joist. Make sure both ends of each joist are supported by load-bearing walls. (See pages
water supply riser. 366 to 367 for more information on adding sister joists.)
C D
2" inlet for

shower drain
11⁄2" inlet
for tub drain
In a wall adjacent to the tub, establish a route for a 2" vertical waste-vent pipe running from Cut and install a vertical 2" drain pipe running from the basement to the joist cavity adjoin-
the basement. This pipe should be no more than 31⁄2 ft. from the bathtub trap. Then, mark a ing the tub location, using the same technique as for the toilet drain (steps D through F,
route for the horizontal drain pipe running from the bathtub drain to the waste-vent pipe pages 527 to 528). At the top of the drain pipe, use assorted fittings to create three inlets:
location. Cut 3"-diameter holes through the centers of the joists for the bathtub drain. branch inlets for the bathtub and shower drains, and a 11⁄2" top inlet for a vent pipe running
to the attic.

E F
Vent T
Sweep
elbow
Dry-fit a 11⁄2" drain pipe running from the bathtub drain location to the vertical waste-vent Dry-fit a 2" drain pipe from the shower drain to the vertical waste-vent pipe near the tub.
pipe in the wall. Make sure the pipe slopes 1⁄4" per ft. toward the wall. When satisfied with the Install a solvent-glued trap at the drain location, and cut a hole in the bottom plate and
layout, solvent-glue the pieces together and support the pipe with vinyl pipe straps attached insert a 2" × 2" × 11⁄2" vent T within 5 ft. of the trap. Make sure the drain is sloped 1⁄4" per ft.
to the joists. downward, away from the shower drain. When satisfied with the layout, solvent-glue the
pipes together.
Cut and install vertical vent pipes for the bathtub and shower, extending them up through to the main waste-vent stack. In our project, the shower vent is a 2" pipe, while the bathtub
the wall plates and at least 1 ft. into the attic. These vent pipes will be connected in the attic vent is a 11⁄2" pipe.

Connecting the Drain Pipes to the Main Waste-vent Stack
A B
In the basement, cut into the main waste-vent stack and install the fittings necessary to con- Dry-fit Y-fittings with 45° elbows onto the vertical 3" and 2" drain pipes. Position the hori-
nect the 3" toilet-sink drain and the 2" bathtub-shower drain. In our project, we created an zontal drain pipes against the fittings, and mark them for cutting. When satisfied with the
assembly made of a waste T-fitting with an extra side inlet and two short lengths of pipe, layout, solvent-glue the pipes together, then support the pipes every 4 ft. with vinyl pipe
then inserted it into the existing waste-vent stack using banded couplings (see pages 90 to straps. Solvent-glue cleanout plugs on the open inlets on the Y-fittings.
91). Position the T-fittings so the drain pipes will have the proper downward slope toward the
stack. NOTE: If your stack is cast iron, install supports before cutting into the pipe (see page 90).
Connecting the Vent Pipes to the Main Waste-vent Stack

A B
In the attic, cut into the main waste-vent stack and install a vent T-fitting, using banded cou- Use elbows, vent T-fittings, reducers, and lengths of pipe as needed to link the new vent pipes
plings. The side outlet on the vent T should face the new 2" vent pipe running down to the to the test T-fitting on the main waste-vent stack. Vent pipes can be routed in many ways, but
bathroom. Attach a test T-fitting to the vent T. NOTE: If your stack is cast iron, make sure to you should make sure the pipes have a slight downward angle to prevent moisture from col-
adequately support it before cutting into it (see page 90). lecting in the pipes. Support the pipes every 4 ft.

Installing the Water Supply Pipes
A B
After shutting off the water, cut into the existing supply pipes and install T-fittings for new Cut 1" × 4"-tall notches around the wall, and extend the supply pipes to the sink location.
branch lines. Notch out the studs and run copper pipes to the toilet and sink locations. Use Install reducing T-fittings and female threaded fittings for the sink faucet stub-outs. Position
an elbow and threaded female fitting to form the toilet stub-out. When satisfied with the lay- the stub-outs about 18" above the floor, spaced 8" apart. When satisfied with the layout, sol-
out, solder the pipes in place. der the joints, then insert 3⁄4" blocking behind the stub-outs and strap them in place.
C D
Extend the water supply pipes to the bathtub and shower. In our project, we removed the sub- At the shower location, use elbows to create vertical risers where the shower wet wall will
floor and notched the joists to run 3⁄4" supply pipes from the sink to a whirlpool bathtub, then be constructed. The risers should extend at least 6" above the floor level. Support the risers
to the shower. At the bathtub, we used reducing T-fittings and elbows to create 1⁄2" risers for with a 3⁄4" backer board attached between joists. Solder caps onto the risers; after the
the tub faucet. Solder caps onto the risers; after the subfloor is replaced, the caps will be shower stall is constructed, the caps will be removed and replaced with shutoff valves.
removed and replaced with shutoff valves.

Plumbing a Basement Bath
Vent
pipes Water
supply
pipes
2"
drain
pipe
2" drain
pipe
Main
waste-
vent
stack
3" drain
pipe
Main house
drain
Y-fitting
Unless your basement has stub-outs in place for adding a bathroom, completing
the rough-ins requires either installing a macerating toilet unit (see pages 540 to
541), or breaking up a portion of the concrete floor and digging a trench for the
toilet and shower or bath drains. To simplify this laborious process, arrange the
bathroom fixtures in a line along one wall. Also consider the location of the
bathroom; the fixtures must be close enough to the main drain tie-in that the
fixture drain lines maintain a downward slope of 1⁄4" per ft.
In some basements, the main house drain does not extend through the base-
ment floor but instead makes a turn above the floor and begins its run out to
the city sewer. In this situation, a basement bathroom requires a sewage ejector
to collect the waste from each fixture and pump it up to the main drain.
Plumbing rough-ins for our demonstration bathroom include a 2" drain pipe for In this project overview, the in-floor drains feed into a main drain nearby and
the shower and sink, and a 3" drain for the toilet. The drain pipes converge at a are vented by a pipe that ties into the main waste-vent stack in the attic. To
Y-fitting joined to the existing main drain. The shower, toilet, and sink have indi- accept the new drain tie-ins, the main drain and main waste-vent stack are cut
vidual vent pipes that meet inside the wet wall. From there, a single vent extends into, and new fittings are added. The project also includes the construction of a
up to the attic, where it joins the main waste-vent stack. 2 × 6 wet wall for housing the pipes.
534 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Basement Bath

Plumbing a Basement Bath
A B
Outline a 24"-wide trench on the concrete where the new branch drains will run to the main Use a circular saw and masonry blade to cut along the outline, then break the rest of the
drain. (In our project, we ran the trench parallel to an outside wall, leaving a 6" ledge for trench into small chunks with a jackhammer. Remove any remaining concrete with a chisel.
framing a wet wall.) Use a masonry chisel and hand maul to break up the concrete near Excavate the trench to a depth about 2" deeper than the main drain. At vent locations for
the stack. the shower and toilet, cut 3" notches into the concrete ledge, all the way to the wall.
C D
Cut the 2 × 6 framing for the wet wall that will hold the pipes. Use pressure-treated lum- Assemble a 2" horizontal drain pipe for the sink and shower, and a 3" drain pipe for the toi-
ber for the bottom plate. Cut 3" notches in the bottom plate for the pipes, then secure the let. The 2" drain pipe includes a solvent-glued trap for the shower, a vent T, and a waste
plate to the floor with construction adhesive and masonry fasteners (see pages 367 to 368). T for the sink drain. The toilet drain includes a toilet bend and a vent T. Use elbows and
Install the top plate, then attach the studs. straight lengths of pipe to extend the vent and drain pipes to the wet wall. Make sure the
vent fittings angle upward from the drain pipe at least 45°.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Basement Bath 535

Plumbing a Basement Bath (cont.)
E F
Use pairs of stakes with vinyl support straps slung between them to cradle drain pipes in the Assemble the fittings required to tie the new branch drains into the main drain. In our project,
proper position (inset). The drain pipes should be positioned so they slope 1⁄4" per ft. down we will be cutting out the cleanout and sweep on the main waste-vent stack in order to install
toward the main drain. a new assembly that includes a Y-fitting to accept the two new drain pipes.
G H
Support the main waste-vent stack before cutting into it. Use a 2 × 4 for a plastic stack, or Cut into the stack above the cleanout and remove the pipe and fittings. Wear rubber gloves,
riser clamps (see page 90) for a cast-iron stack. Using a reciprocating saw (or snap cutter, for and have a bucket and plastic bags ready, as old pipes and fittings may be coated with messy
cast iron), cut into the main drain, as close as possible to the stack. sludge.

I
3" × 3" × 2" reducing Y
Test-fit, then solvent-glue the new cleanout and reducing Y assembly into the main drain. Support the weight of the stack by adding sand underneath the Y, but leave plenty of space around
the end for connecting the new branch pipes.
CJ K
Working from the reducing Y, solvent-glue the new drain pipes together. Be careful to main- Check for leaks by pouring fresh water into each new drain pipe. If no leaks appear, cap
tain proper slope of the drain pipes when gluing. Be sure the toilet and shower drain or plug the drains with rags to prevent sewer gas from leaking into the work area as you
stub-outs extend at least 2" above the floor level. complete the installation.

Plumbing a Basement Bath (cont.)
L M
Run 2" vent pipes from the drains up the inside of the wet wall. Notch the studs and insert a Route the vent pipe from the wet wall to a point below a wall cavity running from the base-
horizontal vent pipe, then attach the vertical vent pipes with an elbow and vent T-fitting. Test- ment to the attic. NOTE: If there is an existing vent pipe in the basement, you can tie into this
fit all pipes, then solvent-glue them in place. pipe rather than run the vent to the attic.
N O
If you are running vent pipes in a two-story home, remove sections of wall surface as needed Wedge the vent pipe in place while you solvent-glue the fittings. Support the vent pipe at
to bore holes for running the vent pipe through the wall plates. Feed the vent pipe up into each floor with vinyl pipe straps. Do not patch the walls until your work has been inspected
the wall cavity from the basement. by a building inspector.

P Q
Cut into the main stack in the attic and install a vent T-fitting, using banded couplings. (If Shut off the main water supply, cut into the water supply pipes as near as possible to the new
the stack is cast iron, make sure to support it adequately above and below the cuts, as bathroom, and install T-fittings. Install full-bore control valves on each line, then run 3⁄4"
demonstrated on page 90.) Attach a test T-fitting to the vent T, then join the new vent pipe to branch supply pipes down into the wet wall by notching the top wall plate. Extend the pipes
the stack, using elbows and lengths of straight pipe as needed. across the wall by notching the studs.
Protector
Backing plates
boards
Use reducing T-fittings to run 1⁄2" supply pipes to each fixture, ending with female threaded inspector, fill in around the pipes with dirt or sand, then mix and pour new concrete to
adapters. Install backing boards, and strap the pipes in place. Attach metal protector plates cover the trench. Trowel the surface smooth, and let the concrete cure for three days before
over notched studs to protect the pipes. After having your work approved by a building installing the fixtures.

Installing a Macerating Toilet

What do you get if you cross a toilet with a Usually installed in basements because they fixture to the macerating unit. When the unit
food disposer? It may not be the most pleasant can serve as “up-flush” toilets, macerating toi- fills up with wastewater, sensors activate the
combination to consider, but the answer is a lets will support a toilet, a sink, and a shower or grinding mechanism, which works in conjunc-
macerating toilet. Based on a grinder-and-pump bathtub. They typically are not set up to service tion with a grate that acts as a sieve. From there,
unit that is installed next to or behind the toilet, the waste volume produced by dishwashers or the wastewater is propelled by an impeller
a macerating toilet grinds waste finely enough washing machines. Some toilets use macerating through a 3⁄4" waste pipe and to a Y-fitting at
that it can be pumped upward through 3⁄4" pipe units that can be placed apart from the toilet a drain stack.
and evacuated into your existing DWV system. and connected with a pipe, but most units con- Before installing a macerating toilet, contact
In the right situation, these recently-approved nect directly to the back of a rear-discharge your local plumbing inspector to make sure
waste disposal units can be the difference toilet. The units have inlets that accept drains macerating units are approved for use in your
between a quick weekend project and a major from the individual fixtures, which must be ele- area.
remodeling undertaking. vated to create a drop of 1⁄4" per ft. from the
A macerating toilet contains an internal grinder that shreds waste from toilets, sinks, and showers. The waste is then propelled upward by an impeller and into a drain line on the
floor above.

Installing a Macerating Toilet
The following installation overview is based on run as far as 150 ft. horizontally if a 1⁄4"-per- the toilet to the floor. The toilet tank connects
the Sanibest and Sanipro lines of macerating foot drop is maintained. Read the instructions to the bowl like a standard two-piece toilet, and
units made by Saniflo (see resources, page 599). carefully to learn the limits for your fixture as the water supply connection to the fill valve is
Installation procedures may vary; always follow well as how to factor in pressure drops that also standard (see pages to 576 to 577). Venting
the manufacturer’s installation instructions. occur when the line makes a bend. should be provided in accordance with local
Place the macerating unit in the desired Once all connections are made at the macer- codes and the manufacturer’s instructions.
location and make the connections to the ating unit, place the toilet bowl in front of the The macerating unit must be plugged in to
11⁄2"-diameter drain lines from the sink and unit so that the toilet spigot lines up with the a 120-volt GFCI-protected outlet (the outlet
tub or shower to the inlets on the macerating accordion connector on the macerating unit. must be 40" away from the unit). The unit will
unit. Also connect the 3⁄4" drain line from the Mark the location of the toilet bowl’s mounting- not function during a power outage. Do not
soil stack or a branch drain to the discharge screw holes. Remove the toilet and drill dispose of paper products (other than toilet
port on the unit (you can use either copper or appropriately sized holes for the toilet’s mount- paper) in the macerating toilet system. Do not
PVC pipe). The drain line may span up to 12 ing lag screws. Join the toilet to the macerating use bleach cakes or other submerged tank-
ft. vertically with some models, and it can be unit as directed by the manufacturer, and secure and-bowl cleaning products.
Sample Installation 11⁄2" vent connected to

existing DWV system
3
⁄4" discharge
* GFCI receptacle 40"

away from bath or shower.
12' maximun
Water overflow drain

40"
GFCI*
Bathtub 11⁄4" drain
Macerating unit
11⁄2" drain
The macerating unit fits between the toilet and the wall, and is powered by a 120-volt GFCI planning a macerating toilet installation. Because installation procedures vary, always fol-
outlet, located a minimum of 40" from the bath or shower. The unit can be installed to sup- low the instructions provided by the unit’s manufacturer.
port a toilet, a sink, and a bathtub or shower. Use this diagram as a general guideline for

Wiring a Bathroom
Careful planning of a bathroom wiring project • Circuit 3 powers the floor-warming system. panel, and store the completed circuit maps
ensures you will have plenty of power for • Circuit 4 feeds the whirlpool. near the service panel for future reference.
present and future needs. Consider all possible • Circuits 1, 3, and 4 are GFCI-protected See the circuit maps on page 543 for a closer
ways a space might be used, and plan for circuits. Circuits 3 and 4 also are dedicated look at typical wiring layouts for bathrooms.
enough electrical service to meet peak needs. circuits, meaning each serves only one To install vanity light fixtures in a finished
Draw a circuit map for each new electrical device or fixture. wall, see page 545. And for more information
circuit in your bathroom. Bathrooms require After all the new bathroom circuits are on basic wiring methods and techniques, see
at least two circuits, one 20-amp, GFCI- installed and connected, be sure to label each pages 100 to 145.
protected receptacle circuit for small appliances, circuit at the main service
and one 15-amp or 20-amp circuit for general
lighting fixtures. Vent fans with only light fix-
tures usually can be wired into the general
lighting circuit, but units with built-in heat
lamps or blowers require separate cir-
cuits. When drawing a circuit
Overhead Vent
map, include all the lights, lighting fan
switches, receptacles, and
fixtures connected to each
circuit. Lighting and
vent fan
The circuits for the master
circuit
bathroom shown here start
at the main service panel in
the basement:
• Circuit 1 controls the Shower
bathroom’s receptacles. Whirlpool
• Circuit 2 runs the light Heating Whirlpool
fixtures and vent fan. mat
circuit
Vanity
Floor lighting
sensing
thermostat
Timer
GFCI
outlets
Floor-warming system circuit GFCI outlets

Lighting and vent fan circuit circuit
Whirlpool circuit
GFCI outlets circuit To service panel
4
To 3
service
panel 2
1
542 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Wiring
Common Bathroom Circuits
GFCI Receptacle Circuit: Wire
GFCI receptacles on a dedicated
20-amp circuit, using this cir-
cuit map. To prevent “nuisance
2-WIRE 2-WIRE
tripping” caused by normal CABLE CABLE
power surges, GFCIs should be
connected only at the LINE LOAD LOAD
LOAD LOAD
screw terminal, so they protect silver silver
brass brass
a single location, not the fix-
tures on the LOAD side of the
circuit. This circuit is for all the
general-use receptacles in the LINE LINE LINE LINE
bathroom—no lighting outlets silver brass silver brass
or bathroom fixtures can be
connected to it.
General Lighting Circuit: Use

this layout to provide power for
light fixtures. The circuit can be 2-WIRE 2-WIRE 2-WIRE
wired with a single switch to CABLE CABLE CABLE
control a number of linked light
fixtures, or multiple switches to
control specific fixtures (see
below).
Switched Fixture Circuit: Use

one double-gang box to house 2-WIRE
CABLE
two switches run by the same
circuit. A single feed cable pro- 2-WIRE
CABLE 2-WIRE
vides power to both switches;
CABLE
each switch controls a separate
electrical fixture or series of fix-
tures. A similar layout with two
feed cables can be used to place
switches from different circuits
in the same box.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Wiring 543

Wiring Codes & Permits
To ensure public safety, your community requires that you get a permit help you design well-planned circuits.
to install new wiring and have the completed work reviewed by an As with any project, if you are uncomfortable working with electricity
appointed inspector. Electrical inspectors use the National Electrical hire a professional electrician to complete new wiring installations and
Code (NEC) as the primary authority for evaluating wiring, but they connections.
also follow the local building code and electrical code standards. The bathroom requirements listed below are for general information
As you begin planning new circuits, call or visit your local electrical only. Contact your local electrical inspector for specific wiring regulations:
inspector and discuss the project with him or her. The inspector can tell • A separate 20-amp receptacle circuit for small appliances is required.
you which of the national and local code requirements apply to your • All receptacles must be GFCI protected.
job, and may give you a packet of information summarizing these regu- • Light fixtures and switches must be on a separate circuit. (A mini-
lations. Later, when you apply to the inspector for a work permit, he or mum 15-amp circuit.)
she will expect you to understand the local guidelines as well as a few • All fixture and appliance switches must be grounded.
basic National Electrical Code requirements. • There must be at least one ceiling-mounted light fixture.
The National Electrical Code is a set of standards that provides min- • Whirlpools and other large fixtures or appliances are required to be
imum safety requirements for wiring installations. It is revised every on a dedicated circuit.
three years. The manufacturers of some home spa fixtures, such as saunas and
In addition to being the final authority of code requirements, inspec- whirlpools, may specify that a certified electrician make the electrical
tors are electrical professionals with years of experience. Although they connections for their product. Make sure to follow these directions, as
have busy schedules, most inspectors are happy to answer questions and doing otherwise may result in the warranty being voided.
⁄8" hole
5
11⁄4"
Protector
plate
Furring
strip
Cutaway
view
Cables must be protected against damage by nails and screws by at least 11⁄4" of wood (top). Kitchen and bathroom receptacles must be protected by a GFCI (see page 136). Also, all out-
When cables pass through 2 × 2 furring strips (bottom), protect the cables with metal pro- door receptacles and general-use receptacles in an unfinished basement or crawlspace must
tector plates, also called nail stops. be protected by a GFCI.
544 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Wiring

Installing Vanity Lights
A B Drywall removed for clarity
Turn off the power at the service panel. Unscrew the old fixture from the wall, use a neon cir- Mark the location for the sconces, and install new boxes. Install the boxes about 66" above
cuit tester to ensure that the power is off, then disconnect the fixture. Remove a strip of the floor and 18" to 20" from the centerline of the mirror (the mounting base of some sconces
drywall from around the gang box, to the first studs beyond the approximate location of the is above or below the bulb, so adjust the height of the bracing accordingly). If the correct
new sconces. Make the opening large enough to route cable from the existing overhead fix- location is on or next to a stud, attach the box directly to the stud, otherwise install bracing.
ture to the boxes for the sconces. See pages 127 to 129 for installing cable in finished walls. Metal braces with adjustable electrical boxes (shown) are available at home centers.
C D E
Open the side knockouts on the box above the vanity. Drill 5⁄8" Remove 101⁄2" of sheathing from both ends of the cable, and Cover the old gang box with a flat cover, or install a new
holes in the centers of any studs between the old fixture and the strip 3⁄4" of insulation from the ends of the wires. Connect the above-mirror fixture. To attach the new fixtures, connect the
new ones. Run two new NM cables from the new boxes to the white wires from the new cables to the white wire from the old black circuit wire to the black fixture wire with a connector,
box above the vanity. Protect the cables with metal protector cable with a connector, and the black wires from the new and the white circuit wire to the white fixture wire. Connect
plates (see page 544), and secure the new branch cables at cables to the black wire from the old cable. Connect the ground the ground wires. Finally, screw the fixture to the box with
both ends with cable clamps, leaving 11" of extra cable for wires. Have an inspector check your work, then replace the dry- the mounting screws.
making the connection to the old box and new sconces. wall, leaving openings for the sconces and the old box.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vanity Lights 545

Building a Shower
Showers can be built in different sizes and Elbow Shower arm
configurations, but the basic elements remain
the same; most have a supply system, a drain Shower head
Alcove framing
system, and a framed alcove. members
The supply system: The shower arm
extends from the wall, where an elbow fitting
connects it to the shower pipe. The pipe runs
up from the faucet, which is fed by the hot Cross brace for
and cold water supplies. Most building codes shower head
require shower faucets to be equipped with (72" minimum)
anti-scald valves (see page 569). Shower pipe
The drain system: The drain cover attaches
Faucet body
to the drain tailpiece. A rubber gasket on the
tailpiece slips over the drain pipe, leading to
the P-trap and the branch drain.
The alcove: The alcove is the frame for the Escutcheon
72" minimum
stall, with 2 × 4 walls built to fit around a
shower base and blocking to secure the
plumbing. The base sets into a mortar bed Faucet handle
for support, and water-resistant wallboard or
cementboard covers the alcove walls.
The easiest way to finish a shower stall is with
prefabricated panels (see pages 566 to 567). For Cross brace for
a custom finish, ceramic wall tile is the most faucet (48")
popular choice. Though water-resistant wall-
board, called greenboard, is the standard backer Shutoff valves
for prefab panels, always check the manufac-
turer’s recommendations. Ceramic tile should be
backed by cementboard (see pages 234 to 235). Rubber
gasket
Some building codes require a waterproof
membrane between the studs and the wall- 48"
board or cementboard in shower stalls.
The type of shower base and wall finish you use Drain
tailpiece
will affect the installation sequence. Some bases
are made to be installed after the greenboard Drain
or cementboard; other bases are installed first. pipe
Shower base
If your base is going in after the wall surface,
be sure to account for the thickness of the sur-
Drain cover Mortar base
face material when framing the alcove.
Tools: Circular saw, drill, plumbing

tools, hacksaw, channel-type pliers, Drain tailpiece
trowel, level. Subfloor
Materials: 2 × 4 and 1 × 4 lumber, 16d

and 8d nails, plumbing supplies, shower Shower stall shown
Supply pipes
base, rag, dry-set mortar, soap. cutaway for clarity
546 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Shower

Framing a Shower Alcove
A B C
Measure the shower base, and mark its dimensions on the Build 2 × 4 alcove walls just outside the marked lines on the In the stud cavity that will hold the shower faucet and show-
floor. Measure from the center of the drain pipe to ensure floor. Anchor the alcove walls to the existing wall and the erhead, mark reference points 48" and 72" above the floor to
that the drain will be centered in the shower alcove. Install subfloor. If necessary, drill holes or cut notches in the bottom indicate the locations of the faucet and showerhead. For
blocking between the studs in the existing walls to provide a plate for plumbing pipes. taller users, you may want to install the showerhead higher
surface for anchoring the alcove walls. than 72".
D E
Attach 1 × 4 cross braces between studs to provide surfaces for attaching the showerhead Following the manufacturer’s directions, assemble the plumbing pipes and attach the faucet
and faucet. Center the cross braces on the marked reference points, and position them flush body and showerhead fitting to the cross braces. (See pages 85 to 87 for information on work-
with the back edges of the studs to provide adequate space for the faucet body (inset) and ing with plastic plumbing pipes.)
showerhead fittings.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Shower 547

Installing a Shower Base
A B C
Sealing
gasket
Locknut
Drain tailpiece
Trim the drain pipe in the floor to the height recommended Prepare the shower drain tailpiece as directed by the manu- Mix a batch of dry-set mortar, then apply a 1" layer to the
by the manufacturer (usually near or slightly above floor facturer, and attach it to the drain opening in the shower subfloor, covering the shower base area. Mortar stabilizes
level). Stuff a rag into the drain pipe, and leave it in place base (see inset photo, page 546). Tighten the locknut securely and levels the shower base.
until you are ready to make the drain connections. onto the drain tailpiece to ensure a waterproof fit.
D E
Apply soap to the outside of the drain pipe in the floor and to the inside of the rubber gas- Press the shower base down into the dry-set mortar, carefully adjusting it so it is level. If
ket in the drain tailpiece. Set the shower base onto the drain pipe, and press down slowly until directed by the manufacturer, anchor the shower base with screws driven through the edge
the rubber gasket in the drain tailpiece fits snugly over the drain pipe. flanges and into the wall studs. Let the mortar dry for 6 to 8 hours. Attach the faucet handle
and showerhead after the shower walls have been finished.
548 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Shower

Installing a Bathtub
Tub spout
nipple Faucet
Flashing
Tub ledger
Overflow pipe
Shutoff
valves
Cold water
supply
Drain
T-fitting
Drain
tailpiece
Branch
drain
Hot water
supply
P-trap
Wall and floor sections

removed for clarity.
The supply system for a bathtub includes hot and cold supply pipes, shutoff valves, a faucet and handles, and a spout. Supply connections can be made before or after the tub is installed.
The drain-waste-overflow system for a bathtub includes the overflow pipe, drain T, P-trap, and branch drain. The overflow pipe assembly is attached to the tub before installation.
The development of modern plastics has created a new generation of drain connections to provide access for future alterations or repairs.
tubs that are strong, light, and easy to clean. Even if your old fiberglass If you are installing a new bathtub that will also be used as a shower,
or cast-iron tub is in good condition, you might consider replacing it purchase a combination tub-shower faucet that has a port on top for
with a newer model that’s made to resist stains and rust. connecting the shower pipe. Most codes require that these faucets be
Take care when handling a new bathtub, since the greatest risk of equipped with anti-scald valves (see page 569), so check with the local
damaging it occurs during the installation. If the inside of your tub has building department before buying a faucet.
a protective layer of removable plastic, leave it on until you’ve com-
pleted the installation. Also set a layer of cardboard into the bottom of
the tub for added protection while you work. Tools: Plumbing tools, channel-type pliers, hacksaw, level, circu-
lar saw, drill, screwdriver, adjustable wrench.
This project shows you how to install a standard bathtub into a framed
alcove. If you’re building a new alcove, follow the tub manufacturer’s Materials: Plumbing supplies; tub protector; drain-waste-overflow
specifications regarding its size. As with a shower alcove, you can finish kit; shims; 1 × 3, 1 × 4, and 2 × 4 lumber; galvanized deck screws;
your tub alcove with ceramic tile or prefabricated panels (see page 546). plumber’s putty; dry-set mortar; trowel; soap; 1" galvanized
Create an access panel behind the bathtub’s water supply valves and roofing nails; 4"-wide galvanized roof flashing; silicone caulk.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Bathtub 549

Tips for Installing Bathtubs
Overflow
coverplate Overflow
pipe
Drain
Waste T-fitting
Drain drain
coverplate tube
Drain
tailpiece
A drain-waste-overflow kit with a stopper mechanism must be purchased separately and Build a deck for a drop-in style tub or whirlpool (see pages 562 to 565). Used frequently with
attached to the tub before it is installed (see pages 551 to 552). Available in both brass and whirlpools, most decks are finished with cementboard and ceramic tile after the tub or
plastic types, most kits include an overflow coverplate, an overflow pipe that can be adjusted whirlpool is installed.
to different heights, a drain T-fitting and tailpiece, a waste drain tube, and a drain coverplate
that screws into the drain tube.
Installing a Bathtub in an Alcove

A B
1×4
cross
braces
Tub
protector
Attach the faucet body and showerhead to the water supply pipes, and secure the assemblies Place a tub-bottom protector, which can be cut from the shipping carton, into the tub. Test-
to 1 × 4 cross braces before installing the tub. Trim the drain pipe to the height specified by fit the tub by sliding it into the alcove so it rests on the subfloor, flush against the wall studs.
the drain-waste-overflow kit manufacturer.
550 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Bathtub

C D
Measure
distance
Check the tub rim with a level. If necessary, shim below the tub until it is level. Mark the top Measure the distance from the top of the nailing flange to the underside of the tub rim (inset),
of the nailing flange at each stud. Remove the bathtub from the alcove. and subtract that amount from the marks on the wall studs. Draw a line at that point on
each wall stud.
E F
Cut ledger board strips from 1 × 4s, and attach them to the wall studs just below the marks Adjust the drain-waste-overflow assembly (usually sold as a separate kit) to fit the drain and
for the underside of the tub rim (step D), using galvanized deck screws. You may have to overflow openings. Attach the gaskets and washers as directed by the manufacturer, then
install the boards in sections to make room for any structural braces at the ends of the tub. position the assembly against the tub drain and overflow openings. Prop up the tub on
2 × 4s, if necessary.

Installing a Bathtub in an Alcove (cont.)

G H
Apply a ring of plumber’s putty to the bottom of the drain coverplate flange, then insert the Insert the drain plug linkage into the overflow opening, and attach the overflow coverplate
drain piece through the drain hole in the bathtub. Screw the drain piece into the waste drain with long screws driven into the mounting flange on the overflow pipe. Adjust the drain plug
tube, and tighten until it is snug. Insert the pop-up drain plug. linkage as directed by the manufacturer.
I J
Use a trowel to apply a 1⁄2"-thick layer of dry-set mortar to the subfloor, covering the entire Lay soaped 1 × 4 runners across the alcove so they rest on the back wall’s bottom plate. The
area where the tub will rest. runners will allow you to slide the tub into the alcove without disturbing the mortar base.
552 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Bathtub

K L
Slide the tub over the runners and into position, then remove the runners, allowing the tub Before the mortar sets, nail the tub rim flanges to the wall studs. Attach the rim flanges either
to settle into the mortar. Press down evenly on the tub rims until they touch the ledger boards. by drilling pilot holes into the flanges and nailing with galvanized roofing nails (top), or by
driving roofing nails into the studs so the head of the nail covers the rim flange (bottom).
After the rim flanges are secured, allow the mortar to dry for 6 to 8 hours.
M N Overflow
pipe
T-fitting
Branch drain Tailpiece
Slip nut
1
⁄4"
P-trap
Floor and bottom
plate shown cutaway
Attach 4"-wide strips of galvanized metal roof flashing over the tub flange to help keep water Adjust the drain tailpiece so the overflow assembly will fit into the P-trap (you may have to
out of the wall. Leave a 1⁄4" expansion gap between the flashing and the tub rim. Nail the trim it with a hacksaw), then connect it, using a slip nut. Install the wall surfaces, then install
flashing to each wall stud, using 1" galvanized roofing nails. the faucet handle and tub spout (see pages 568 to 569). Finally, caulk all around the bathtub.

Building a Custom-tiled Shower Base

A custom-tiled shower base offers you great flexibility in the location most home centers or at a tile specialty store. Be sure to contact your
and size of your shower. Building the base is quite simple, though it local building department regarding code restrictions and to secure the
does require time and some knowledge of basic masonry techniques necessary permits.
because the base is formed primarily using mortar.
A custom shower base is built in three layers to ensure proper water
Tools: Tape measure, circular saw, hammer, utility knife, stapler,
drainage: the pre pan, the shower pan, and the shower floor. A mortar 2-ft. level, mortar mixing box, trowel, wood float, felt-tipped
pre pan is first built on top of the subfloor, establishing a slope toward marker, ratchet wrench, expandable stopper, drill, tin snips, tor-
the drain of 1⁄4" for every 12" of shower floor. Next, a waterproof chlori- pedo level, tools for installing tile (see pages 237 and 302).
nated polyethylene (CPE) membrane forms the shower pan, providing
a watertight seal for the shower base. Finally, a second mortar bed rein- Materials: 2 × 4 and 2 × 10 framing lumber, 16d galvanized
forced with wire mesh is installed for the shower floor, providing a common nails, 15# building paper, staples, 3-piece shower
drain, PVC primer, PVC cement, galvanized finish nails, galva-
surface for tile installation. If water penetrates the tiled shower floor, nized metal lath, thick-bed floor mortar (“deck mud”), latex
the shower pan and sloped pre pan will redirect it to the weep holes of mortar additive, laminating adhesive, CPE waterproof mem-
the 3-piece drain. brane & preformed dam corners, CPE membrane solvent glue,
One of the most important steps in building a custom shower base is CPE membrane sealant, cementboard and materials for
testing the shower pan after installation (see page 558, step M). This installing cementboard (see pages 234 to 235), materials for
allows you to locate and fix any leaks to prevent costly damage. installing tile (see pages 236 and 307).
The materials needed to build a tiled shower base can be found at
No fasteners below
Top of CPE top of CPE membrane
membrane
Floor mortar
Floor mortar Metal lath
CPE
membrane
Laminating
adhesive
Floor mortar
Subfloor
Metal lath
3-piece Tile Tar paper
drain spacers Shown cutaway
for clarity
554 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Shower Base

Building a Custom-tiled Shower Base
A B
Curb
After framing the shower alcove (see pages 546 to 548), cut three 2 × 4s to size for the curb Staple 15# building paper to the subfloor of the shower base. Disassemble the 3-piece shower
and fasten them to the floor joists and the studs at the shower threshold with 16d galvanized drain and glue the bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement (see page 87). Partially
common nails. Also cut 2 × 10 lumber to size and install in the stud bays around the perime- screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into the drain pipe to prevent mor-
ter of the shower base. tar from falling into the drain.
C D
Reference
line
Metal lath
Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall farthest from the center of the drain. Staple galvanized metal lath over the building paper; cut a hole in the lath 1⁄2" from the drain.
Measure from the center of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height mark Mix floor mortar (or “deck mud”) to a fairly dry consistency, using a latex additive for
1
⁄4" for every 12" of shower floor to slope the pre pan toward the drain. Trace a reference line strength; mortar should hold its shape when squeezed (inset). Trowel the mortar onto the sub-
at the height mark around the perimeter of the entire alcove, using a level. floor, building the pre pan from the flange of the drain piece to the height line
on the perimeter of the walls.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Shower Base 555

Building a Custom-tiled Shower Base (cont.)
E F
8"
8" 8"
16"
Continue using the trowel to form the pre pan, checking the slope using a level and filling any Measure the dimensions of the shower floor, and mark it out on a sheet of CPE waterproof
low spots with mortar. Finish the surface of the pre pan with a wood float until it is even and membrane, using a felt-tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure out and mark an
smooth. Allow the mortar to cure overnight. additional 8" for each wall and 16" for the curb end. Cut the membrane to size, using a utility
knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean, smooth surface to prevent puncturing
the membrane.
G H
Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark it on the membrane, outlining the Coat the pre pan, curb, and perimeter blocking with laminating adhesive and a notched
outer diameter of the drain flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2" larger trowel, then apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane along the floor outline,
than the outline, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to weld it in place to reinforce the seal folding the corners as shown in step I. Set the membrane over the pre pan so the reinforced
at the drain. drain seal is centered over the drain bolts.

I J
Working from the drain to the walls, carefully smooth out any bubbles from under the mem- At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so it can be folded over the curb.
brane. Tuck the membrane tight into each corner, folding the extra material into triangular Solvent-glue a dam corner at each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners
flaps. Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap flat, then staple it in place (inset). with staples.
Staple the top edge of the membrane to the blocking; do not staple below the top of the curb,
or the curb itself.
K L
At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate and mark the drain bolts. Press the Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the membrane to expose the drain and
membrane down around the bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large allow the middle drain piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position the middle
enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane down over the bolts. drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts, tightening them evenly and firmly to cre-
ate a watertight seal.

Building a Custom-tiled Shower Base (cont.)
M N
Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Place a balloon tester (inset) in the drain below the Install cementboard on the alcove walls (see pages 234 to 235), using 1⁄4" wood shims to lift the
weep holes, and fill the pan with water, to 1" below the top of the curb. Mark the water level bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners
and let the water sit overnight. If the water level remains the same, the pan holds water. If in the lower 8" of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit around the three sides of the
the level is lower, locate and fix leaks in the pan using patches of membrane and CPE solvent. curb. Bend the lath so it tightly conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the
curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough mortar for the two sides of the curb.
O P New
reference
line
11⁄2"
minimum
11⁄2" plus
tile thickness
minimum
Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight 1× board, so it is flush with the outer Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting it to a minimum of 11⁄2" above the
wall material. Apply mortar to the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the board. shower pan. On one wall, mark 11⁄2" up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw a ref-
Clear away excess mortar, then use a torpedo level to check for plumb, making adjustments erence line around the perimeter of the shower base. Because the pre pan establishes the
as needed. Repeat for the inside face of the curb. NOTE: The top of the curb will be finished 1
⁄4" per foot slope, this measurement will maintain that slope.
after tile is installed (see page 559, step S). Allow the mortar to cure overnight.

Q R
Metal lath
Tile spacers
Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference line on the walls. Use a level to
Mix the floor mortar, then build up the shower floor to roughly half the thickness of the base. check the slope, and pack mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space at the drain for the
Cut metal lath to cover the mortar bed, keeping it 1⁄2" from the drain (see photo in next step). thickness of the tile. Float the surface using a wood float until it is smooth and slopes evenly
to the drain. When finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before installing the tiles.
S T 1
⁄8" slope CPE membrane
Metal lath
Floor mortar
Thin-set
mortar
Tile
2×4
lumber
Subfloor Cutaway view
After the floor has cured, draw reference lines and establish the tile layout, then mix a batch Mix enough floor mortar to cover the unfinished top of the curb, then pack it in place between
of thin-set mortar and install the floor tile (see pages 306 to 315). At the curb, cut the tiles for the tiles, using a trowel. Screed off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side tiles. Allow
the inside to protrude 1⁄2" above the unfinished top of the curb, and the tiles for the outside to the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile. Install the wall tile, then grout, clean, and
protrude 5⁄8" above the top, establishing a 1⁄8" slope so water drains back into the shower. Use seal all the tile (see pages 237 to 243). After the grout has cured fully, run a bead of
a level to check the tops of the tiles for level as you work. silicone caulk around all inside corners to create control joints.

Installing a Whirlpool
Installing a whirlpool is very similar to installing a bathtub, once the enough to reach over the tub rim. Most whirlpools use “widespread”
rough-in is completed. Completing a rough-in for a whirlpool requires faucets because the handles and spout are separate and can be posi-
that you install a separate GFCI-protected electrical circuit for the tioned however you like, even on opposite sides of the tub. Most
pump motor. Some building codes specify that a licensed electrician be building centers carry flex tube in a variety of lengths for connecting
hired to wire whirlpools; check with your local building inspector. faucet handles and spouts.
Select your whirlpool before you do the rough-in work, because exact
requirements differ from one model to another. For installations in
existing bathrooms, where space can be tight, many whirlpool manu- Tools: Framing square, circular saw, drill & spade bits, jig saw,
facturers now offer tapered designs and tubs in various heights. hacksaw, trowel, screwdriver, staple gun, straightedge, utility
One of the best ways to choose a whirlpool is to visit a showroom and knife, tiling tools, caulk gun.
sit in several models. The tub should be comfortable to enter and exit; Materials: 2 × 4 lumber, 10d nails, 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood,
it should also fit your body comfortably when you are seated. Check galvanized deck screws, dry-set mortar, 12" wood spacer blocks,
whether the whirlpool offers grab bars to assist your entry and exit. 8-gauge insulated wire, grounding clamp, paper-faced fiberglass
Select your faucet to match the trim kit that comes with your insulation, cementboard, ceramic tile materials, silicone caulk.
whirlpool. When selecting a faucet, make sure the spout is large
Air volume
controls
ON/OFF switch
Overflow pipe
Drain T
Jets
Circulating
Pump pipes
A whirlpool circulates aerated water through jets mounted in the body of the tub. Whirlpool pumps move as much as 50 gallons of water per minute to create a relaxing hydromassage
effect. The pump, pipes, jets, and most of the controls are installed at the factory, making the actual hookup in your home quite simple.
560 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Whirlpool

Optional Whirlpool Accessories
Air volume Water jet

controls
Overflow coverplate
Overflow coverplate
Mood light
Drain
cover Grab bar
Mood lights are sold as factory-installed accessories by many manufacturers. Most are available with several filters to let you Trim kits for whirlpools are ordered at the time of purchase.
adjust the color to suit your mood. Mood lights are low-voltage fixtures wired through 12-volt transformers. Do not wire mood Available in a variety of finishes, all of the trim pieces except
lights or other accessories into the electrical circuit that supplies the pump motor. the grab bar and overflow coverplate typically are installed
at the factory.
Making Electrical Hook-ups
5 ft. minimum
Grounding
wire GFCI
circuit breaker
Dedicated
20-amp circuit
The electrical service for a whirlpool should be a dedicated 115- to 120-volt, 20-amp circuit. The pump motor should be A GFCI circuit breaker at the main service panel is required
grounded separately, typically to a metal cold-water supply pipe. Most whirlpool motors are wired with 12/2 NM cable, but with a whirlpool installation. Always hire an electrician to
some local codes require the use of conduit. A remote timer switch (inset), located at least 5 ft. from the tub, is required by connect new circuits at your service panel, even if you install
some codes, even for a tub with a built-in timer. the circuit cable yourself.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Whirlpool 561

Installing a Whirlpool
A B Tile mortar Tub rim
Top plate 1
⁄4" expansion
joint
Whirlpool
Plywood tub
decking
CHP 112B
Image:
Ceramic
tile
Cementboard
Bottom plate
Subfloor Thin-set mortar
Outline the planned location of the deck frame on the subfloor. Use the plumbing stub-outs as starting points for measuring. Cut top plates, bottom plates, and studs for the deck frame.
Before you begin to build the deck, check the actual dimensions of your whirlpool tub to make sure they correspond to the The height of the frame should allow 3⁄4" for the plywood deck-
dimensions listed in the manufacturer’s directions. NOTE: Plan your deck so it will be at least 4" wide at all points around the ing, 1⁄4" for an expansion gap between the deck and the tub
whirlpool. rim, and 1" for the cementboard, tile, and mortar.
C D
Access panel for

pump motor
Assemble the deck frame. Make sure to leave a framed opening for access panels at the pump Cover the deck frame with 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood, and attach it with galvanized deck
location and the drain location. Nail the frame to the floor joists and wall studs or blocking, screws spaced every 12". Using a template of the whirlpool cutout (usually included with the
using 10d nails. tub), mark the deck for cutting. If no template is included, make one from the shipping car-
ton. (The cutout will be slightly smaller than the outside dimensions of the whirlpool rim.)

E F G
Drill a starter hole inside the cutout line, then make the Measure and mark holes for the faucet tailpieces and spout Attach the drain-waste-overflow assembly (included with most
cutout hole in the deck, using a jig saw. tailpiece according to the faucet manufacturer’s directions. whirlpools) at the drain and overflow outlets in the tub (see
Drill the holes with a spade bit or hole saw. pages 551 to 552). Trim the drain pipe in the floor to the
proper height, using a hacksaw.
H I
Apply a layer of thin-set mortar to the subfloor where the tub With a helper, lift the tub by the rim and set it into the cutout. Press the tub into the mortar base until the rim rests on the
will rest. Make 12" spacer blocks, 11⁄4" thick (equal to the spacers at the edges of the cutout area. Align the tailpiece of the drain-waste-overflow assembly with the P-trap as you set
expansion gap, tile, mortar, and cementboard; see step B). the tub in place. Avoid moving or shifting the tub once it is in place, and allow the mortar to set for 6 to 8 hours before pro-
Arrange the blocks along the edges of the cutout. ceeding with the installation.

Installing a Whirlpool (cont.)
J K
Adjust the length of the tailpiece for the drain-waste-overflow assembly, if necessary, then Inspect the seals on the built-in piping and hoses for loose connections. If you find a problem,
attach the assembly to the P-trap in the drain opening, using a slip nut. contact your dealer for advice. Attempting to fix the problem yourself could void the whirlpool
warranty.
L M N
With the power off, remove the wiring cover from the pump Attach an insulated 8-gauge wire to the ground lug on the Attach the other end of the wire to a metal cold water sup-
motor. Feed the circuit wires from the power source or wall pump motor. ply pipe in the wall, using a grounding clamp. Test the GFCI
timer into the motor. Connect the wires according to the circuit breaker.
directions printed on the motor.

O P Q
Clean the tub, then fill it so the water level is at least 3" above Turn on the pump and allow it to operate for at least 20 min- Staple paper-faced fiberglass insulation to the vertical frame
the highest water jet. utes while you check for leaks. Contact your whirlpool dealer supports. The facing should point inward, to keep fibers out
if you find any leaks. of the motor. Do not insulate within 6" of pumps, heaters, or
lights.
R S
Attach cementboard to the sides and top of the deck frame if Attach the finish surfaces to the deck and deck frame, then install the grab bar and the faucet and spout. For instructions
you plan to install ceramic tile on the deck. (See pages 234 to on installing ceramic tile, see pages 496 to 503. Fill the joints between the floor and the deck, and between the tub rim and
235 for information on cementboard installation.) Use 3⁄4" the deck surface, with silicone caulk.
exterior-grade plywood for the access panel coverings.

Installing Bathtub Surrounds

Bathtub surrounds are designed and installed in the same way as shower
surrounds. Though fiberglass and plastic fabricated enclosures, as well
as custom ceramic tile, are traditional materials for surrounds, the use of
solid-surface materials—materials common to sinks and countertops—
is growing in popularity.
Solid-surface surrounds are available in kits with 1⁄4" panels that are
installed much the same as fiberglass enclosures. The panels can be fas-
tened to any wall material—cementboard and greenboard are the most
common in new construction. Walls must be free of debris and sealed
with two coats of primer. Solid-surface panels can be installed over old
tile, though you must chisel out any loose tiles, and install filler strips
the same thickness as the tiles (usually 1⁄4") to fill any gaps between the
walls and panels.
Tools: Tape measure, 4-ft. level, jig saw, drill with a hole saw or
spade bits, caulk gun.
Materials: Solid-surface surround kit, sandpaper, pressure-
sensitive tape, panel adhesive, tub & tile caulk, masking tape,
1 × and 2 × lumber.
Installing a Solid-surface Bathtub Surround

A B
Begin panel installation with the back wall. Measure and mark the dimensions on the back side of the panel, then cut using Remove the backing of the pressure-sensitive tape. Lift the
a jig saw (left). Remove rough edges with fine or medium sandpaper. Test-fit the panel to ensure a proper fit. On the back panel into position, tight into one corner, then firmly press
side of the panel, apply pressure-sensitive tape 1" from each edge, then apply panel adhesive in the field (right). Keep the the panel to the wall. Using your hands, smooth across the
adhesive 1" from the tape edges. entire panel, applying pressure to ensure firm contact with
the wall. Follow the same procedures to install the panel on
the side wall, opposite the plumbing outlets.
566 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Bathtub Sur rounds

C D
For the wall with the plumbing outlets, measure and trim the panel to size. Measure the loca- Test-fit the panel and make any necessary adjustments, then install, following the same pro-
tion of the plumbing outlets on the wall, then transfer the dimensions to the finished side of cedures as with the first two panels. After all the panels are installed, seal each joint, seam,
the panel. Drill holes 1⁄2" larger than the plumbing outlets, using a drill and a hole saw or and edge with a bead of caulk.
spade bits. Place a scrap board beneath the cutout area to ensure a clean cut.
E F
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install any trim. For corner molding, test-fit each Use 1× and 2× lumber to construct temporary bracing to ensure a strong adhesive bond. Use
piece and trim to size, then apply a bead of panel adhesive down the corner joints and firmly soft cloth or carpet scraps to prevent the bracing from scratching the surround. Allow the adhe-
press the moldings into position. Temporarily secure the molding with tape. sive to cure overnight, then remove the bracing. Wipe the surround clean with a damp cloth.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Bathtub Sur rounds 567

Installing Faucets & Spouts
Bathroom sink faucets come in a variety of
designs, materials, and prices. Better faucets
are made of solid brass, while less-expensive
models may be made of other metals surface-
coated with chrome.
The handle is one of the most distinguish-
ing features of the faucet. Variations include
single handles, double handles, or electronic
sensors in place of handles. Most types are
available in a range of designs, from modern
to antique.
Whenever possible, install a faucet before
installing the sink. This will allow you the
greatest freedom of movement for making
connections.
Tools: Basin wrench, screwdriver.

Materials: Plumber’s putty, Teflon tape,
supply tube couplings, pipe joint com-
Bathroom sink faucets come in many styles, allowing you to match the decorating theme of your bathroom. A basin wrench pound.
(inset) enables you to reach faucet locknuts from inside cabinets.
Installing a One-piece Faucet

A B C
Washer
Tailpieces
Locknuts Coupling
Tailpieces
Supply
tube
Apply a ring of plumber’s putty around the base of the Insert the faucet tailpieces through holes in the countertop or Wrap Teflon tape around the tailpiece threads, then cut
faucet body. (Some faucets use a gasket that does not require sink. From below, thread washers and locknuts over the tail- supply tubes to fit (see page 77). Attach the supply tube cou-
plumber’s putty—read the manufacturer’s directions pieces, then tighten the locknuts with channel-type pliers or plings and tighten them with a basin wrench until snug.
carefully.) a basin wrench until snug. Connect the drain linkage (see page 485), then attach the
faucet handles and trim caps.
568 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Faucets & Spouts

Installing Tub & Shower Faucets
Faucet handle
Built-in
shutoff
valves
Faucet
body
Escutcheon plate
Mounting screws
Spout
Single-handled faucet: Open the built-in shutoff valves, using a screwdriver, then attach the Anti-scald valves are safety devices that protect against sudden changes in water tempera-
escutcheon plate to the faucet body with mounting screws. Attach the faucet handle, then ture. They are required by most codes for faucets in showers and combination tub-showers.
attach the spout (see below) and trim cap. NOTE: Attach the faucet body before installing the Once installed, faucets with anti-scald valves look like standard faucets (inset).
wall surface (see page 547).
Installing a Tub Spout

A B
Allen
wrench
Connect tub spouts by applying pipe joint compound or Screw the spout onto the nipple, using a long screwdriver as Tip: Some spouts have a setscrew on the underside that must
Teflon tape to the threaded end of the spout nipple that a lever. Some spouts have a setscrew on the underside that be tightened. Find the small access slot, then tighten the
extends from the wall. must be tightened. setscrew inside, using an Allen wrench.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Faucets & Spouts 569

Installing a Slide-Bar Showerhead
A B 4" to 6" C
from
supply
Supply
elbow
48" from
base
Remove the existing showerhead and arm. Wrap the threads Attach a mounting bracket to each end of the slide-bar. Place Drill holes in the tile using a masonry bit. If you hit a stud,
of a galvanized nipple with Teflon tape and thread it into the the bar 4" to 6" to the side of the wall supply elbow to avoid attach the slide-bar to the wall, using the screws and wall
stub-out, leaving about 9⁄16" of the nipple protruding from the the water pipes. Locate the lower end of the bar about 48" anchors provided with the kit.
wall. Thread the supply elbow onto the nipple. Cover the from the bottom of the tub or shower. Use a level to make
elbow with a soft cloth and tighten it with a pipe wrench or sure the bar is plumb, then mark the location of the mount-
strap wrench. ing holes.
Toggle anchor
Collar
Stainless
steel
machine
bolt
Variation: If you don’t hit a stud, enlarge the hole, using a 1⁄2" masonry bit, then insert a tog- Slide the decorative end caps onto the mounting brackets. Thread the shower hose onto the
gle anchor (inset) into the hole. Slide the collar forward to hold the toggle against the back wall supply elbow. Clip the showerhead into the slide-lock mechanism. Apply silicone caulk
of the wall, then snap off the plastic straps. Attach the slide-bar to the wall with 1⁄4"-20 stain- around the supply elbow and mounting brackets.
less steel machine bolts.
570 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Faucets & Spouts

Installing Vanities & Sinks
Many vanity tops installed today are one-piece, or integral, sink-countertop
units made from cultured marble or solid-surface material. These are easy
to install and convenient to use, as the sink edge is flush with the coun-
tertop. However, you may want to install a laminate or tile countertop
with a separate self-rimming or under-mount sink. Pedestal sinks are
freestanding units that do not have vanities.
When installing cabinets in bathrooms, choose the best cabinets you
can afford. Look for quality indicators, like doweled construction, hard-
wood doors and drawers, and high-gloss, moisture-resistant finishes.
Avoid cabinets with sides or doors that are painted on one side and fin-
ished with laminate or veneer on the other; these cabinets are more
likely to warp.
Tools: Level, drill, sawhorses, basin wrench or channel-type

pliers, caulk gun, circular saw, ratchet wrench, jig saw with
down-cutting blade.
Materials: Wood shims, 21⁄2" wallboard screws, trim, finish nails,
Prebuilt cabinets are inexpensive and simple to install. Most manufacturers sell several cab- Teflon tape, plumber’s putty, faucet, tub & tile caulk, sink-drain
inet types in the same style and finish. When pricing prebuilt cabinets, remember that faucets assembly, cardboard, 2 × 4 lumber, framing nails, water-resis-
and vanity tops are sold separately. tant wallboard, lag screws and washers.
Installing a Vanity
A B
Measure and mark the top edge of the vanity cabinet on the wall, then use a 4-ft. level to Slide the vanity into position, so that the back rail of the cabinet can later be fastened to studs
mark a level line at the cabinet height mark. Use an electronic stud finder to locate the fram- at both corners and in the center. The back of the cabinet should also be flush against the
ing members, then mark the stud locations along the line. wall. (If the wall surface is uneven, position the vanity so it contacts the wall in at least one
spot, and the back cabinet rail is parallel with the wall.) Using a 4-ft. level as a guide, shim
below the vanity until the unit is level. Continued on next page
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vanities & Sinks 571

Installing a Vanity (cont.)
C
Variation: To install two or more cabinets, set the cabinets in position against the wall, and At the stud locations marked on the wall, drive 3" drywall screws through the rail on the cab-
align the cabinet fronts. If one cabinet is higher than the other, shim under the lower cabi- inet back and into the framing members. The screws should be driven at both corners and in
net until the two are even. Clamp the cabinet faces together, then drill countersunk pilot holes the center of the back rail.
through the face frames, spaced 12" apart, at least halfway into the face frame of the sec-
ond cabinet. Drive wood screws through the pilot holes to join the cabinets together.
Run a bead of caulk along small gaps between the vanity and the wall, and between the van- To install a vanity with a back, Mark a line on the wall where the top of the vanity will fit,
ity and floor. For larger gaps, use quarter-round molding between the vanity and wall. then draw a line down the wall from the midpoint of this line. Draw a corresponding center-
Between the vanity and the floor, install the same baseboard material used to cover the gap line down the back of the vanity. Measure the distance from the supply and drain pipes to
between the wall and floor. the centerline on the wall, then transfer the measurements to the back of the vanity, mea-
suring from the centerline. Mark pipe cutouts, drill a hole at the center, then cut out with a
hole saw or jig saw.
572 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vanities & Sinks

Installing an Integral Sink-Countertop
A B C
Sealing
gasket
Pop-up
drain lever Locknut
Pop-up
drain linkage
Drain
tailpiece Retaining
Drain flange nut
Tailpiece
extension
Set the sink-countertop onto sawhorses. Attach the faucet Thread the locknut and sealing gasket onto the drain tail- Attach the pop-up drain linkage to the tailpiece of the sink.
(see page 568), and slip the drain lever through the faucet piece, then insert the tailpiece into the drain opening and Tighten the retaining nut to secure the linkage.
body. Place a ring of plumber's putty around the drain screw it onto the drain flange. Tighten the locknut using
flange, then insert the flange in the drain opening. channel-type pliers. Attach the tailpiece extension.
D E F
Apply a layer of tub and tile caulk (or adhesive, if specified by Center the sink-countertop unit over the vanity, so the over- If the cabinet has corner braces, drive a mounting screw
the countertop manufacturer) to the top edges of the vanity hang is equal on both sides and the backsplash of the through each corner brace and up into the countertop.
and to any corner braces. countertop is flush against the wall. Press the countertop Cultured marble and other hard countertops require pre-
evenly into the caulk. drilling and plastic screw sleeves.

Installing an Integral Sink-Countertop (cont.)

G H
Supply tube
Drain
tailpiece
Drain
arm
Drain
stub-out
Slip
nuts
P-trap
Attach the drain arm to the drain stub-out in the wall, using a slip nut. Attach one end of Seal the gap between the backsplash and the wall with tub and tile caulk.
the P-trap to the drain arm, and the other to the tailpiece of the sink drain, using slip nuts.
Connect supply tubes to the faucet tailpieces (see page 568).
Installing a Drop-in Sink

A B C
Use a template that is 1⁄2" narrower than the sink rim to mark Apply a ring of plumber's putty around the sink cutout. Set the sink into the cutout area, and gently press the rim of
the countertop cutout. Drill a 3⁄8" starter hole, then use a jig Before setting the sink in place, attach the faucet body to the the sink into the plumber's putty. Hook up the drain and sup-
saw to make the cutout (see page 396). For countertop- sink or countertop (see page 568), then attach the drain ply fittings (step G, above), then caulk around the sink rim.
mounted faucets, drill holes for the tailpieces, according to flange and the pop-up drain assembly (see page 573).
the faucet manufacturer's directions.
574 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vanities & Sinks

Installing a Pedestal Sink
A B
Wall surface shown

cutaway for clarity
Install 2 × 4 blocking between wall studs, behind the planned sink location. Cover the wall Set the basin and pedestal in position, bracing the basin with 2 × 4s. Outline the top of the
with water-resistant greenboard (see page 237). basin on the wall, and mark the base of the pedestal on the floor. Mark reference points on
the wall and floor through the mounting holes found on the back of the sink and the bottom
of the pedestal.
C D E
Set aside the basin and pedestal. Drill pilot holes in the wall Attach the faucet (see page 568), then set the sink on the Hook up the supply fittings and the drain (see pages 568 and
and floor at the reference points, then reposition the pedestal. Align the holes in the back of the sink with the pilot 574). Caulk between the back of the sink and the wall.
pedestal. Anchor the pedestal to the floor with lag screws. holes drilled in the wall, then drive lag screws and washers
into the wall brace, using a ratchet wrench. Do not over-
tighten the screws.

Installing a Toilet
Code regulations requiring low-flow (1.6 gallons per flush) toilets have
been on the books for years. After some initial problems with inade-
quate flush force, manufacturers have re-engineered the toilet traps and
flush mechanisms to maximize efficiency. These new models work con-
siderably better than first-generation low-flow toilets from the 1980s to
the mid-90s. Most are reasonably priced and well worth the cost for
eliminating aggravation (and double flushing).
Most toilets in the low-to-moderate price range are two-piece units,
with a separate tank and bowl, made of vitreous china. One-piece toi-
lets with integral tank and bowl also are available, but the cost is
usually two or three times that of two-piece units.
Measure from the bathroom wall to the floor bolts on the toilet flange
to determine whether you need a 12" or 14" offset model.
Tools: Adjustable wrench, ratchet wrench or basin wrench,

tubing cutter, screwdriver.
Materials: Wax ring and sleeve (or waxless ring), plumber’s
putty, tank bolts with rubber washers, supply tube, coupling
Install a toilet by anchoring the bowl to the floor first, then mounting the tank onto the bowl. nuts, seat bolts and mounting nuts.
China fixtures crack easily, so use care when handling them.
Installing a Low-flow Toilet

A B C
Sleeve
Wax
ring
To install a toilet, turn the toilet base upside down and place Make sure the floor bolts in the toilet flange are straight and Press down firmly on the toilet base, slightly twisting it from
a new wax ring over the drain horn. Press the ring firmly in the flange is clean. Remove the rag from the drain hole. side to side, to compress the wax ring and form a tight seal.
place. If there’s a paper cover on the bottom of the wax, Position the toilet over the flange so the floor bolts are Thread the washers and nuts onto the floor bolts. Tighten
remove it. Waxless rings (inset) are clean and easy to install aligned with the openings in the base of the toilet. them with an adjustable wrench, just until they’re snug.
and are endorsed by most codes. Cover the nuts with trim caps. CAUTION: Do not overtighten
these nuts; this can cause the toilet base to crack.
576 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Toilet

D E F
Spud
washer
Carefully turn the tank upside down and place a soft spud Turn the tank right side up and position it on the rear of the Line up the tank bolt holes with the holes in the base of the
washer over the flush valve tailpiece. toilet base, so that the spud washer is centered over the toilet. Slide the rubber washers onto the tank bolts and insert
water inlet opening. the bolts into the holes.
G H I
Working from underneath the tank, thread washers and Attach the water supply tube to the ballcock tailpiece, using Install the toilet seat by inserting the seat bolts into the
nuts onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts with a ratchet wrench an adjustable wrench. Turn on the water, let the tank fill, mounting holes in the toilet. Attach mounting nuts to the
until the tank is snug. Again, use caution when tightening and test the toilet. Flush several times and check for leaks seat bolts, and tighten them. Apply silicone sealant around
the nuts to avoid cracking the tank. Most toilet tanks rest on around the tank bolts and water connections. Tighten any the base of the toilet to create a watertight seal.
the spud washer rather than directly on the toilet base. leaky connections, if necessary.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Toilet 577

Installing a Bathroom Vent Fan
Vent cover
Rafter
Vent tailpiece
Pipe insulation
Vent hose
NM cable
from power source
Roof sheathing
Ceiling joist
Insulation
A bathroom remodeling project is a good Always insulate ducting in this application to

opportunity to add a new vent fan or replace keep condensate from forming and running Tools: Drill, jig saw, combination tool,
an existing fan with a quieter, more efficient down into the motor. And carefully install screwdrivers, caulk gun, reciprocating
saw, pry bar.
model. Most building codes require a vent fan flashing around the outside vent cover to pre-
in any bathroom without natural ventilation. vent roof leaks. Materials: Wallboard screws, double-
Fans with only a light fixture usually can be Soffit venting involves routing the duct to a gang retrofit electrical box, NM cable
wired into a main bathroom electrical circuit, soffit (roof overhang) instead of through the (14/2, 14/3), cable clamp, hose clamps,
but units with built-in heat lamps or blowers roof. Check with the vent manufacturer for pipe insulation, roofing cement, self-
require separate circuits. instructions for soffit venting. sealing roofing nails, shingles, wire
connectors, switches.
Most vent fans are installed in the center of To prevent moisture damage, always termi-
the bathroom ceiling or over the toilet area. nate the vent outside your home—never into
Do not install a fan over the tub or shower your attic or basement.
area unless the unit is GFCI-protected and You can install a vent fan while the framing
rated for use in wet areas. is exposed or as a retrofit, as shown in this Fan rating
(cubic feet
If the fan you choose doesn’t come with a project. Refer to the Wiring section of this per minute)
mounting kit, purchase one separately. A book for help with running circuit cable,
mounting kit should include a vent hose installing an electrical box, and making basic
(duct), a vent tailpiece, and an exterior vent electrical connections.
Sone
cover. rating
Venting instructions vary among manufac- Check the information label attached to each vent fan unit.
turers, but the most common options are attic Choose a unit with a fan rating at least 5 cfm higher than
venting and soffit venting. Attic venting the square footage of your bathroom. The sone rating refers
(shown in this project) routes fan ductwork to the relative quietness of the unit, rated on a scale of 1 to 7.
into the attic and out through the roof. (Quieter vent fans have lower sone ratings.)
578 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vent Fan

Installing a Bathroom Vent Fan
A B
Position the vent fan unit against a ceiling joist. Outline the Remove the grille from the fan unit, then position the unit variation: For vent fans with heaters or light fixtures, some
vent fan onto the ceiling surface. Remove the unit, then drill against the joist, with the edge recessed 1⁄4" from the finished manufacturers recommend using 2 × lumber to build dams
pilot holes at the corners of the outline and cut out the area surface of the ceiling (so the grille can be flush-mounted). between the ceiling joists to keep the insulation at least 6"
with a jig saw or wallboard saw. Attach the box to the joist, using wallboard screws. away from the fan unit.
C D E
Mark and cut an opening for the switch box on the wall next Strip 10" of sheathing from the ends of the cables, then feed Strip 10" of sheathing from the end of the cable at the fan
to the latch side of the bathroom door, then run a 14/3 NM the cables into a double-gang retrofit switch box so at least unit, then attach a cable clamp to the cable. Insert the cable
cable from the switch cutout to the fan unit. Run a 14/2 NM 1
⁄2" of sheathing extends into the box. Clamp the cables in into the unit. From the inside of the unit, screw a locknut onto
cable from the power source to the cutout. place. Tighten the mounting screws until the box is secure. the threaded end of the clamp.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vent Fan 579

Installing a Bathroom Vent Fan (cont.)

F G H
Wire lead to
light fixture
Neutral
wires
Wire lead
to fan
motor
Neutral
circuit
wire
Circuit wire
from wall
switch
Grounding lead Circuit wire from timer
At the roof, cut the exit location for the vent hose and install At the fan unit, make the following wire connections: the Connect the fan motor plug to the built-in receptacle on the
the cover flange (see pages 519 to 520, steps C through F). black circuit wire from the timer to the wire lead for the fan wire connection box, and attach the fan grille to the frame,
Connect the vent hose to the vent tailpiece and the outlet on motor; the red circuit wire from the single-pole switch (see using the mounting clips included with the fan kit. NOTE: If
the fan unit. Secure each end with clamps or straps. Wrap step I) to the wire lead for the light fixture in the unit; the you removed the wall and ceiling surfaces for the installation,
the hose with pipe insulation to prevent moist air inside the white neutral circuit wire to the neutral wire lead; the circuit install new surfaces before completing this step.
hose from condensing and dripping down into the fan motor. grounding wire to the grounding lead in the fan box. Make
all connections with wire connectors. Attach the coverplate
over the box when the wiring is completed.
I Neutral wires J
Grounding Circuit wire
pigtail from vent fan
Grounding
wires
Single-pole
switch
Circuit wire
Timer from power
source
Circuit wire
Pigtail wire from vent fan
Pigtail wire
At the switch box, add black pigtail wires to one screw terminal on the timer and to one screw terminal on the single-pole Tuck the wires into the switch box, then attach the switches
switch; add a green grounding pigtail to the grounding screw on the single-pole switch. Make the following wire connections: to the box and attach the coverplate and timer dial. Turn on
the black circuit wire from the power source to the black pigtail wires; the black circuit wire from the vent fan to the remain- the power.
ing screw on the timer; the red circuit wire from the vent fan to the remaining screw on the single-pole switch. Join the white
wires with a wire connector. Join the grounding wires with a green wire connector.
580 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vent Fan

Installing a Vent Fan with a Heat Lamp
A B C
At the main service panel, turn off the power to the circuit, In the attic, position the new fan unit so the mounting Fit the duct connector onto the fan housing, locking it into
then check to make sure the power is off, using a circuit brackets are flush with the bottoms of the joists and the bot- place. Make sure the damper flap inside the duct connector
tester. At the old vent fan, undo the wire connections, pull tom edge of the housing is flush with the finished ceiling opens and closes smoothly and that gravity keeps it closed.
the plug connected to the motor, and remove the locknut surface (see the manufacturer’s instructions to adjust the Attach the vent hose to the duct connector and secure it with
securing the cable clamp to the fan housing. In the attic, brackets for various ceiling thicknesses). If necessary, enlarge the cable clamp. Seal all duct joints with foil duct tape. Wrap
pull the cable from the fan housing, disconnect the vent the hole in the ceiling surface to accommodate the new fan. the hose with pipe insulation to prevent condensation from
ducting, and remove the fan unit. Fasten the bracket ends to the joists with 11⁄2" drywall screws. forming and dripping into the fan.
D E
Remove the wiring box from the fan housing, then pop out a knockout on the box. Attach a cable clamp to the circuit cable, If necessary, patch or repair the ceiling surface around the
thread the cable through the knockout and secure the clamp to the box. To wire the unit so that the fan and heating lamp new fan, making sure to seal the front of the fan housing to
operate together, join the black (hot) circuit wire to the blue and red wires on the fan, using a wire connector. Join the white keep out construction dust. Attach the fan grille to the hous-
(neutral) circuit wire to the white fan wire, then join the green (ground) wires. (See the manufacturer’s wiring diagram for ing, using the springs provided. Install a BR40 or R40 250W
specific instructions.) Tuck the wires into the wiring box and reattach the box to the fan. Insulate around the fan, as directed infrared bulb into the bulb socket, and center the grille
by the manufacturer (some fans require an air space between the unit and insulation). around the bulb. Turn on the power at the main service panel
and test the fan unit.
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Vent Fan 581

Installing Grab Bars

Installing grab bars in the bathroom is one of the most effective The easiest way to install grab bars is to screw them into wall
ways to improve safety in your home. In addition to preventing studs or into blocking or backing attached to the studs. Most
slips and falls, grab bars help people steady themselves in showers grab bars require three screws at each end. When anchoring a bar
and lower themselves into tubs, and they promote independence to studs, use #12 stainless steel screws; drive screws into the cen-
in the bathroom, where privacy is especially important. ter of the stud using two of the three screw holes at each end.
Now standard features in many homes, grab bars are available Secure the third screw with a standard hollow-wall anchor. For
in a variety of colors, shapes, and styles; some are textured for other situations or where no framing or backing exists, there are
better gripping. Grab bars should be 11⁄4" to 11⁄2" in diameter and specialty anchors available for securing bars (see page 583). In tubs
extend no more than 11⁄2" from the wall. They must be able to and showers, always seal bar flanges with caulk to prevent water
support 250 pounds, so it’s important to anchor them properly. from entering the wall. Test all installations by pulling on the bars.
➢ Where to Install Grab Bars

The following suggestions for grab bar placement
6" 12" include some ADA guidelines and recommenda-
max. max. tions from universal design specialists. You may
18" 24" bar want additional grab bars in other locations.
bar 42" bar
24" 24" bar Tub/Shower
bar • Vertical bar (18" long) at entrance to tub; bottom
32"–48" bar
of bar 32" to 38" above the floor.
• Horizontal bar on control wall: 24" long;
6"–10"
above 34" to 38" above the floor.
tub 33"–36" 33"–36" • Horizontal bar on back wall (32" to 48" long): 34"
32"–38" to 38" above floor for shower only; 6" to 10"
34"–38"
(above floor)
above top of tub for bath only.
• Angled bar: 24" long; bottom end 6" to 10" above
top of tub (not necessary in stand-alone showers).
Toilet
• Horizontal bar at side: 42" long (min.); 12" (max.)
from the back wall; 33" to 36" above the floor.
• Horizontal bar behind: 24" long (min.); 6" (max.)
from the side wall; 33" to 36" above the floor.
Installing Blocking or Backing ➢
If you are remodeling your bathroom and will have the wall fram-
Wallboard
ing exposed or are building new walls, add blocking or backing
for securing grab bars. Blocking is a good option if you know 3
⁄4" plywood
where the bars are going. Use 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 lumber to provide Studs
room for adjustments, and fasten the blocks to the framing with
16d nails. Note the locations of your blocking for future reference.
An alternative to blocking is to cover the entire wall with 3⁄4" 2×
plywood backing, which allows you to install grab bars virtually blocking
anywhere on the wall. Secure plywood backing to the wall fram-
ing with screws.
Studs
582 Remodeling Bathrooms/ Grab Bars

Grab Bar Anchors

Wall anchors are available for a variety of grab bar applications. Make sure the anchors you use can support 250 pounds (contact the grab
bar manufacturer for the recommended anchor for your project). Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing anchors.
WingIt™ anchors are heavy-duty hollow-wall anchors designed 5

⁄8" wallboard
to support grab bars that can’t be secured to framing or backing.
When installed in walls of 1⁄2" wallboard with ceramic tile or in a
Wing
1
⁄4"-thick fiberglass tub surround, WingIts hold up to 1,000 assembly
pounds; in 5⁄8" wallboard alone, 450 pounds; and in 1⁄2" wallboard
alone, up to 250 pounds. Once installed, the anchor’s wing
assembly is 3" in diameter, so the bar must be located where no
stud interferes.
WingIt anchors are prepared for insertion and temporarily
mounted to the grab bar, then are inserted into 11⁄4" holes.
Waterproof adhesive rings hold the anchors in place, and the bar
is removed. A tap on the center bolt springs the wing assembly,
and the bolt is tightened to draw the wing to the back of the
wall. The grab bar is fastened to the anchor mounting plates
with stainless steel screws.
Toggler®-brand SnapToggle™ anchors help secure grab bars to

steel studs. This additional reinforcement is important because
bare screws can strip or pull out of light-gauge steel. At each end
of the bar, one SnapToggle is used to secure the top screw of the
mounting flange to the stud. For the remaining two screws at WingIt™ Anchor
each end, one is driven into the stud, if possible, and the other is
secured to the wall with a hollow wall anchor. Steel
The end of the anchor is inserted into a 1⁄2" hole drilled stud Collar
through the center of the stud. A collar is slid along the straps of
the anchor to snug it against the back side of the stud. The straps
are then broken off, and a 1⁄4"-20 stainless steel bolt is inserted
through the grab bar flange and screwed into the anchor.
The SnapToggle anchor is available in stainless steel and zinc-
plated steel. It is important to match the steel of the anchor,
bolt, and grab bar—stainless steel is best for damp conditions. Stainless
steel bolt
Snap-
Toggle
Stainless
steel screw
SnapToggle™ Anchor
Remodeling Bathrooms/ Grab Bars 583

Reference Charts
Saw Blades Adhesives
TYPE CHARACTERISTICS USES
WHITE GLUE Strength: moderate; rigid bond Porous surfaces:
Drying time: several hours Wood (indoors)
Resistance to heat: poor Paper
Carbide Resistance to moisture: poor
Hazards: none
Cloth
blade Cleanup/solvent: soap and water
YELLOW GLUE Strength: moderate to good; rigid bond Porous surfaces:

(carpenter’s glue) Drying time: several hours; faster than white glue Wood (indoors)
Resistance to heat: moderate Paper
Resistance to moisture: moderate Cloth
Hazards: none
Cleanup/solvent: soap and water
Panel TWO-PART EPOXY Strength: excellent; strongest of all adhesives Smooth & porous surfaces:
blade Drying time: varies, depending on manufacturer
Resistance to heat: excellent
Wood (indoors & outdoors)
Metal
Resistance to moisture: excellent Masonry
Hazards: fumes are toxic and flammable Glass
Cleanup/solvent: acetone will dissolve some types Fiberglass
HOT GLUE Strength: depends on type Smooth & porous surfaces:

Drying time: less than 60 seconds Glass
Resistance to heat: fair Plastics
Planer Resistance to moisture: good Wood
Hazards: hot glue can cause burns
blade Cleanup/solvent: heat will loosen bond
CYANOACRYLATE Strength: excellent, but with little flexibility Smooth surfaces:

(instant glue) Drying time: a few seconds Glass
Resistance to heat: excellent Ceramics
Resistance to moisture: excellent Plastics
Hazards: can bond skin instantly; toxic, flammable Metal
Cleanup/solvent: acetone
Masonry CONSTRUCTION Strength: good to excellent; very durable Porous surfaces:

ADHESIVE Drying time: 24 hours Framing lumber
blade Resistance to heat: good Plywood and paneling
Resistance to moisture: excellent Wallboard
Hazards: may irritate skin and eyes Foam panels
Cleanup/solvent: soap and water (while still wet) Masonry
WATER-BASE Strength: good Porous surfaces:

CONTACT CEMENT Drying time: bonds instantly; dries fully in 30 minutes Plastic laminates
Resistance to heat: excellent Plywood
Metal- Resistance to moisture: good Flooring
Hazards: may irritate skin and eyes Cloth
cutting Cleanup/solvent: soap and water (while still wet)
blade Strength: fair to good; very flexible bond Smooth & porous surfaces:
SILICONE SEALANT
(caulk) Drying time: 24 hours Wood
Resistance to heat: good Ceramics
Resistance to moisture: excellent Fiberglass
Hazards: may irritate skin and eyes Plastics
Cleanup/solvent: acetone Glass
Abrasive Paper Grits - (Aluminum Oxide)

VERY COARSE COARSE MEDIUM FINE VERY FINE
12 - 36 40 - 60 80 - 120 150 - 180 220 - 600
584 Reference Charts

Drill Bit Guide
TWIST SELF- CARBIDE-TIPPED GLASS SPADE ADJUSTABLE EXTRACTOR HOLE
BIT PILOTING MASONRY & TILE BIT COUNTERBORE BIT SAW
Counterbore, Shank & Pilot Hole Diameters

SCREW SIZE COUNTERBORE DIAMETER CLEARANCE HOLE PILOT HOLE DIAMETER
FOR SCREW HEAD FOR SCREW SHANK HARD WOOD SOFT WOOD
#1 .146 (9/64) 5/64 3/64 1/32
#2 1/4 3/32 3/64 1/32
#3 1/4 7/64 1/16 3/64
#4 1/4 1/8 1/16 3/64
#5 1/4 1/8 5/64 1/16
#6 5/16 9/64 3/32 5/64
#7 5/16 5/32 3/32 5/64
#8 3/8 11/64 1/8 3/32
#9 3/8 11/64 1/8 3/32
#10 3/8 3/16 1/8 7/64
#11 1/2 3/16 5/32 9/64
#12 1/2 7/32 9/64 1/8
Reference Charts 585

Metric Equivalents
Inches 1⁄64 1⁄32 1⁄25 1⁄16 1⁄8 1⁄4 3⁄8 2⁄5 1⁄2 5⁄8 3⁄4 7⁄8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 36 39.4
(in.)
Feet 1 3 31⁄12
(ft.)
Yards 1 11⁄12
(yd.)
Millimeters
(mm) 0.40 0.79 1 1.59 3.18 6.35 9.53 10 12.7 15.9 19.1 22.2 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6 127 152 178 203 229 254 279 305 914 1,000
Centimeters
(cm) 0.95 1 1.27 1.59 1.91 2.22 2.54 5.08 7.62 10.16 12.7 15.2 17.8 20.3 22.9 25.4 27.9 30.5 91.4 100
Meters
(m) .30 .91 1.00
Converting Measurements
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Miles Kilometers 1.609 Kilometers Miles 0.621
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Tons Metric tons 0.907 Metric tons Tons 1.1
FAHRENHEIT CELSIUS
Converting Temperatures 55° 25°

20°
50°
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this simple formula: 45° 15°
40° 10°
Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then, multiply that number 35° 5°
by 5⁄9. For example, 77°F –32 = 45. 45 × 5⁄9 = 25°C. 30° FREEZING 0°
25° -5°
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius temperature 20° -10°
reading by 9⁄5. Then, add 32. For example, 25°C × 9⁄5 = 45. 45 + 32 = 77°F. 15° -15°
10° -20°
5° -25°
0° -30°
586 Reference Charts

LB. MM IN.
Nails
Nail lengths are identified by 20d 102 mm 4"
numbers from 4 to 60 followed by
the letter “d,” which stands for “penny.”
16d 89 mm 31⁄2"
For general framing and repair work, use
common or box nails. Common nails are best
suited to framing work where strength is important. 10d 76 mm 3"
Box nails are smaller in diameter than common nails,
which makes them easier to drive and less likely to split 8d 64 mm 21⁄2"
wood. Use box nails for light work and thin materials.
6d 51 mm 2"
Most common and box nails have a cement or vinyl coating that
improves their holding power. 5d 44 mm 13⁄4"
4d 38 mm 11⁄2"
Lumber Dimensions Metric Plywood Panels

NOMINAL - U.S. ACTUAL - U.S. METRIC Metric plywood panels are commonly available in two sizes: 1,200 mm ×
1×2 3⁄4" × 11⁄2" 19 × 38 mm 2,400 mm and 1,220 mm × 2,400 mm, which is roughly equivalent to a
4 × 8-ft. sheet. Standard and Select sheathing panels come in standard thick-
1×3 3⁄4" × 21⁄2" 19 × 64 mm
nesses, while Sanded grade panels are available in special thicknesses.
1×4 3⁄4" × 31⁄2" 19 × 89 mm
1×5 3⁄4" × 41⁄2" 19 × 114 mm
1×6 3⁄4" × 51⁄2" 19 × 140 mm
1×7 3⁄4" × 61⁄4" 19 × 159 mm STANDARD SHEATHING GRADE SANDED GRADE
1×8 3⁄4" × 71⁄4" 19 × 184 mm
1 × 10 3⁄4" × 91⁄4" 19 × 235 mm 7.5 mm (5⁄16 in.) 6 mm (4⁄17 in.)
1 × 12 3⁄4" × 111⁄4" 19 × 286 mm
11⁄4 × 4 1" × 31⁄2" 25 × 89 mm
11⁄4 × 6 1" × 51⁄2" 25 × 140 mm 9.5 mm (3⁄8 in.) 8 mm (5⁄16 in.)
11⁄4 × 8 1" × 71⁄4" 25 × 184 mm
11⁄4 × 10 1" × 91⁄4" 25 × 235 mm
11⁄4 × 12 1" × 111⁄4" 25 × 286 mm
12.5 mm (1⁄2 in.) 11 mm (7⁄16 in.)
11⁄2 × 4 11⁄4" × 31⁄2" 32 × 89 mm
11⁄2 × 6 11⁄4" × 51⁄2" 32 × 140 mm
11⁄2 × 8 11⁄4" × 71⁄4" 32 × 184 mm
15.5 mm (5⁄8 in.) 14 mm (9⁄16 in.)
11⁄2 × 10 11⁄4" × 91⁄4" 32 × 235 mm
11⁄2 × 12 11⁄4" × 111⁄4" 32 × 286 mm
2×4 11⁄2" × 31⁄2" 38 × 89 mm
18.5 mm (3⁄4 in.) 17 mm (2⁄3 in.)
2×6 11⁄2" × 51⁄2" 38 × 140 mm
2×8 11⁄2" × 71⁄4" 38 × 184 mm
2 × 10 11⁄2" × 91⁄4" 38 × 235 mm
20.5 mm (13⁄16 in.) 19 mm (3⁄4 in.)
2 × 12 11⁄2" × 111⁄4" 38 × 286 mm
3×6 21⁄2" × 51⁄2" 64 × 140 mm
4×4 31⁄2" × 31⁄2" 89 × 89 mm
4×6 31⁄2" × 51⁄2" 89 × 140 mm 22.5 mm (7⁄8 in.) 21 mm (13⁄16 in.)
25.5 mm (1 in.) 24 mm (15⁄16 in.)
Reference Charts 587

GLOSSARY
AAV – see Air admittance valve. sand. Concrete structures may be reinforced internally with markings and make it possible to control a single fixture or
iron bars or mesh. set of lights from three or more locations.
ABS – acrylonitrile butadiene styrene; rigid plastic piping
used for drain, waste, and vent plumbing lines. No longer Continuity – the uninterrupted flow of electrons from Framing member – a common term for a single struc-
meets code for new construction in many areas. one point to another in an electrical circuit or appliance. tural element of a construction framework, such as a stud,
joist, truss, or rafter.
Air admittance valve – a gravity-actuated valve Cope – to cut the profile of one molding piece into the
designed to replace traditional vent pipes in some types of end of another so the two can be joined at a right angle. Frost heave – the upward movement of structural foot-
household plumbing. Done with a coping saw. ings caused by the expansion of the ground as it freezes.
Alkyd – a synthetic resin used in oil-based paints. “Alkyd” CPVC – chlorinated polyvinyl chloride; rigid plastic mate- Frost line – the depth to which frost penetrates the
paint is another name for oil-based paint. rial used for residential water supply pipe. ground in winter. The depth differs depending on the cli-
mate of the region.
Amperage – a measure of the quantity of electricity flow- Crazing – fine cracking in the finish coat of paint or on
ing into a circuit. Amperes = watts ÷ voltage. the surface of concrete, caused by uneven shrinkage during Furring strip – narrow strips of wood or other material
the drying process. attached to a solid surface to create a flat or level founda-
Ballcock – a valve that controls the water supply entering
tion for a finish surface.
a toilet tank. Cripple stud – a short stud that runs from a bottom plate
to a sill or from a header to a top plate. Gable – the end wall of an attic.
Balloon framing – a house-framing style common
before 1930. Wall studs extend from foundation to roof. Crown – the convex edge of a lumber board that has GFCI – see Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter.
warped during the drying process. When set on edge, a Ground – a pathway for conducting electricity between
Baseboard – a wide trim molding, typically made of
“crowned” board has an arched shape. the earth and an electrical circuit or device. On a switch,
wood, fastened along the bottom of interior walls.
Downspout – the vertical tubing of a gutter system, receptacle, or electrical box, the screw or terminal to which
Base shoe – a strip of wood trim with two flat sides and
which extends from the gutter to the ground. a ground wire (usually green or uninsulated) normally is
a curved front that is typically installed along flooring in
connected.
front of a baseboard. Drip edge – a metal strip that protects the edges of the
lowest roof shingles and helps divert water away from the Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter – a safety device
Batt insulation – insulation, typically fiberglass, supplied
house. designed to detect minute changes in current—as in a short
in rolls and often used as a household insulation material.
circuit—and to interrupt the flow by shutting off power
Eaves – the portion of the lower end of a roof that over-
Blocking – a piece of solid lumber spanning a cavity before the short can cause injury. GFCI receptacles are
hangs the exterior walls.
between framing members to add strength or retard the required by code in many parts of the house.
spread of fire. Also called fireblocking. Egress window – a window in a basement living space
Grounding rod – a metal rod buried deep in the earth
that can provide an emergency escape route for occupants.
Bottom plate – in platform framing, a 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 and connected to household wiring to provide a safe outlet
board nailed flat on the floor to support the bottom ends of Escutcheon – a decorative metal cover plate used to con- for electricity in the event of a short circuit.
wall studs. Also called a sole plate. ceal the entry point of a pipe in a wall or floor surface.
Grout – a fluid cement product used to fill spaces between
Building code – the set of formal regulations used to Faced insulation – batt insulation (see Batt) with an ceramic tiles or other crevices.
dictate construction standards in a community. outer layer, often made of kraft paper or foil, that serves as a
Header – a horizontal framing member that runs above a
vapor barrier.
Category 5 cable – a type of cable used to carry voice, rough opening, typically for a door or window.
data, and multimedia. Commonly used in telephone sys- Facing – any material used as a veneer to cover an inferior
Heat exchanger – the area of a furnace where heated gases
tems and home computer networks. surface and improve appearance.
are used to heat air that will circulate throughout the house.
Caulk – a mastic substance, usually containing silicone, Fascia – a wide board nailed across the ends of the roof
Heat pump – a reversible air-conditioning system that
used to seal joints. Caulk is waterproof and flexible when rafters. The fascia holds the outside edge of the soffit.
extracts heat from the air for heating or cooling purposes.
dry and adheres to most dry surfaces. Flapper – a rubber seal in a toilet that controls the flow of
High-voltage circuit – a 240-volt circuit (see Voltage).
Cement – also called portland cement; the component water from the tank to the bowl.
that hardens masonry mixtures when mixed with water; a Hot – carrying live voltage, as in an electrical circuit. In
Flashing – aluminum or galvanized steel sheeting cut and
blend of lime, silica, alumina, iron, and gypsum. NM cable, the “hot” wires are usually black or red.
bent into various sizes and shapes. Used to keep water from
Cementboard – a wallboard-type material made of port- entering joints between roof elements and to direct water Impeller – the grinding mechanism in a food disposer,
land cement covered with fiberglass mesh. Commly used away from structural elements. consisting of two metal teeth fixed to a rotating metal disk
behind ceramic tile. powered by the motor.
Floating floor – any type of flooring system that does
Coaxial cable – a type of cable used to carry video sig- not need to be attached directly to the subfloor; laminate Jack – the female part of an electrical connection that
nals, particularly cable television. flooring often floats. receives a probe or plug to complete a circuit.
Concrete – a mixture of portland cement, gravel, and Four-way switch – a switch installed between a pair of Jack stud – a short stud that runs from the bottom plate
three-way switches. Four-way switches do not have ON-OFF to a header.
588 Glossary
Joist – horizontal framing member secured to beams or slot designed to keep electrical current directed along the Stud – a vertical framing member of a wall. In house
wall frames to support floor and ceiling surfaces. Ceiling proper wires for safety. construction, studs are typically 2 × 4 boards spaced
joists are smaller than floor joists. PVC – polyvinyl chloride; rigid plastic material that is 16" apart.
Jumper wire – a wire used to bypass the water meter and highly resistant to heat and chemicals. Used for drain-waste Subfloor – plywood or 1" lumber decking nailed across
ensure an uninterrupted grounding pathway. and vent piping. the tops of the floor joists to create the foundation of the
King stud – a stud that runs from a top plate to a bottom Rafter – a diagonal framing member that supports roof floor surface.
plate to frame a rough window or door opening. sheathing and roofing materials. Three-way switch – a switch used in applications in
Laminate – a flooring or countertop material composed Ridge – the horizontal line along the high point of a which two switches control the same fixture or set of lights.
peaked roof. The ridge is created by the ridge board, which Three-way switches are always installed in pairs and do not
of a synthetic decorative top on a fiberboard backing.
joins the top ends of the rafters. have ON-OFF markings.
Line voltage – the voltage that comes directly from a
Saddle valve – a plumbing fitting that is clamped to Top plate – in platform framing, a 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 board
household circuit without being reduced by a transformer,
copper supply pipe; uses a hollow spike to pierce the pipe and nailed flat on the bottoms of floor joists to support the top
typically 120 or 240 volts.
divert water to another supply line when the valve is open. ends of wall studs.
Low voltage – voltage produced by a transformer that
Sash – the frame that encases the glass panes of a window. Transformer – a device that receives the line voltage in a
reduces standard, 120-volt household current to 12 to 24
household circuit and reduces it to a specific low-voltage
volts for powering doorbells, telephones, some types of Sash cord – a rope connecting the window sash to a rating.
lighting, and many thermostats. weight inside the window frame. The cord travels on a pul-
ley that rotates as the window is opened or closed. Trap – also called a P-trap, a curved section of pipe used
Macerating toilet– a toilet with a built-in
in most household drains. The trap holds standing water
grinder/impeller unit. Commonly used as an up-flushing Scribing – the technique of tracing the contour of one that prevents sewer gases from backing up into the house.
toilet where standard drain plumbing is impractical. surface onto another for custom cutting. Usually done using
a compass. Tread – the horizontal platform of each step in a set of
Miter – an angled end-cut for fitting two pieces together
stairs. Treads are supported from below or at the ends by
at an angle. Doorway trim is often mitered at 45°. Service panel – a panel of fuses or circuit breakers from stringers.
Molding – a strip of wood or other material used to cover which electrical current is directed to various household
circuits. Trim – any decorative molding used for ornamentation or
construction joints or decorate functional elements of a
to conceal construction seams.
building. Shake – a hand-split cedar roofing shingle.
Truss – a prefabricated framing assembly used to build a
Mortar – a mixture of portland cement, lime, and sand Sheathing – a layer of plywood or other sheet goods cov- roof.
used to bond the bricks or blocks of a masonry wall. ering the wall or roof framing of a house. Also the protective
outer layer of nonmetallic electrical cable, made of plastic Underlayment – a layer of plywood or other material
Mortise-and-tenon – a common woodworking joint in
or woven fibers. laid over the subfloor to create a smooth surface for a floor
which a protrusion cut from the end of one board fits into
finish.
a matching cavity cut into another board. Sheet vinyl – a flooring material made from vinyl and
other plastics in the form of sheets that are 6 ft. or 12 ft. Valley – the junction between two sloping roof surfaces.
Neutral – a wire or terminal in an electrical circuit that is
designed to return current to its source. A neutral wire is wide and approximately 1⁄8" thick. Vapor barrier – a material used to prevent moisture
usually coated with white insulation. Sill – a horizontal framing member that supports a window. transfer between spaces; typically nailed in sheets to exte-
rior walls and in bathrooms.
Newel post – the vertical post supporting the handrail of Single-pole switch – a switch designed to serve as the
a staircase. Starting and landing newels stand at the foot exclusive switch for a light or fixture. The labels ON and Voltage – a measure of the pressure with which electrons
and landing of a staircase, respectively. OFF are marked on the switch.
are forced through a wire or cable. In the United States and
Canada, most household circuits are 120-volt circuits.
NM cable – standard modern-day cable for indoor use, Soffit – the covering that attaches to the fascia and exte- Heavy appliances may require a 240-volt circuit. Voltage =
with either two or three individually wrapped wires (plus a rior wall to enclose the underside of the roof eaves. wattage ÷ amperes.
bare copper ground) encased inside.
Spalling – chipping or flaking of a brick or block surface, Wallboard – also called drywall or Sheetrock; flat 4 × 8
Nonmetallic cable – see NM cable. caused by weather changes, freezing water, or other forces. or 4 × 12 panels made of gypsum covered with several lay-
On-center – a construction layout term used to describe Stack – the main vertical drain line in a home plumbing ers of paper. Used for most interior wall and ceiling
the measurement or spacing from the center of one mem- system, designed to carry waste from the branch drains to a surfaces.
ber to the center of another member. sewer line. Waste vent – an open-ended pipe that ventilates a
PEX – cross-linked polyethylene; a type of flexible pipe Strike plate – a metal plate with a curled front edge that plumbing drain line, allowing wastewater to travel through
used for household water supply. is fastened to a door jamb to receive the live-action bolt of the drain system without getting stopped by trapped air.
Platform framing – a house-framing method common a doorknob mechanism. Wattage – a measure of the rate at which electricity is
in houses built since 1930. Wall studs run from floor to Stringers – the structural members of a staircase that consumed. Wattage = voltage × amperes.
ceiling on each story. extend diagonally from one floor to another and support
Plumb – a carpentry term meaning perfectly vertical. The the stair treads and risers.
outer bubble gauges of a level are used to inspect for plumb. Stucco – a cement-based plaster used to cover exterior
Polarized plug – a type of plug with a long and a short walls. Installed in three layers over strips of wood lath or
metal mesh.
Glossary 589
INDEX
A B design considerations, 422–425, 430–433
design standards, 428
Abrasive paper grits reference chart, 584 Backsplashes, 504-507
doors, 431
ABS pipe, 68–69 Balloon framing, 9, 36
faucets, 568–569
Accessibility, framing for, 55 door openings in, 58–60
floors, 431
Access panels, 438 temporary supports, 36, 39
grab bars, 582–583
Adhesives reference chart, 584 Baseboard heaters, 119
lighting, 427, 431
Air admittance valves (AAVs), 436, 437 Baseboards, 262, 266, 280
lighting circuits, 542, 543
Air conditioning systems. See HVAC Base cabinets, 474–475
project design and planning, 408–409,
Air pump, 99 Base island cabinets, 477
428–429, 430, 431
Aluminum wire, 109 Basements, 344–403
sink-countertop, 573–574
Anti-scald valves, 569 access panels, 377
vent fans, 542, 578–581
Anti-siphon devices, 96 bathrooms in, 361, 534–541
ventilation, 427
Appliances: bulkhead, 347
water supply system, 533, 546
cables, 108 chases, 375, 377
wiring, 431, 542–545
enclosing mechanicals, 354 concrete floors, 363
See also Bathtubs; Home spas/whirlpools;
in kitchens, 413, 415, 421 evaluating, 346–347
Showers; Toilets; Vanities
receptacles, 118, 119 floors, covering, 362–365
Bathtubs, 426, 432, 530–531, 549–553
standard dimensions, 415 foundation walls, covering, 370–374
faucets and spouts, 569
wiring, 118, 119, 449, 451, 454–455 framing, 354–355
surrounds, 566–567
Armored (BX or Greenfield) cable, 102 gas fireplaces, 384–390
Bay windows, 184–193
Asbestos: glass block windows, 197
Bedrooms, in basement, 361
in floors, 278, 284 guest suites in, 360
Black iron pipe, 68–69
Attics, 344–403 habitable rooms, 15
Blind corner cabinets, 470
access ladders, 158–161 headroom, 346, 376
Blueprints, 18–19
access panels, 377 HVAC, 358–359
Board and batten siding, 33, 213
angled partition walls, 49 insulation, 371
Bottom plates, 47
ceilings, 380–381 light boxes, 402–405
Branch pipes, 95
chases, 375, 377 masonry walls, 371–372
Brass pipe, 68–69
collar ties, 348 moisture in, 346, 351–353, 370
Brass valves, 79
evaluating, 348–349 plumbing, 358
Brick molding, 32
floors, 366–369 project planning, 346–359
Building codes and permits, 14–16
framing, 354–355 soffits, 375–376
bathrooms, 428, 429, 544
gas fireplaces, 384–390 stairways, 350
kitchens, 416–417, 450
kneewalls, 378–379 stud walls, 374
living areas, 111
kneewall shelves, 398–401 subfloor panels, 363–365
plumbing system, 94–98
light boxes, 402–405 wet bars, 391–397
Building inspectors, 21
project planning, 346–359 windows, 356, 374
Bulkhead, 347
purlins, 348 wiring, 357
Butt joints, 231
rafter ties, 348 Bathrooms, 408–409, 422–433, 522–583
soffits, 375–376 alcoves, 547, 550–553
stairways, 350 in basement, 361, 534–541 C
storage units in, 378 cabinets, prebuilt, 571 Cabinets, 412, 415, 419, 438, 466–477
subflooring, 369 ceramic tile in, 238–243, 554–559 glide-out shelves, 478, 480
ventilation, 359 codes and permits, 428, 429, 544 lighting, 460–461
590 Index
painting, 462–463 walls, 237–243 D
pull-down shelves, 478, 481 Ceramic tile floors, 279, 281–282, 310–315
Dishwashers, 449, 451, 457
refacing, 464–465 base tile, 313
Doors, 11, 32, 54–60, 146–215, 162–163
shelves, 478–481 bond tile, 314
casings, 270–271
standard sizes, 416 diagonal pattern, 315
code requirements, 15
swing-up shelves, 478, 479 grouting, 312
exterior openings, 57–60
Cables, 102, 108, 122–129 hexagonal tile, 314
jambs, 280
in ceilings, 129 materials, 306, 307
selecting, 148–149
in finished walls, 127–128 tools, 307
soundproofing, 222
See also NM (nonmetallic) cable; Armored trim tile, 280, 306, 313
Drain cleanouts, 97
cable; Coaxial cable; Telephone cable Chair rails, 262
Drain pipes, 72, 97
Caps, 70 Chromed brass pipe, 68–69
Drain-waste-vent (DWV) pipes, 72, 98,
Carpentry, 26–65 Chromed copper pipe, 68–69
439–445, 527–532, 546
Carpet, 277, 283, 324–343 Circuits, 101, 114–121, 449, 450–451
Drain-waste-vent (DWV) system:
buying, 326–329 amperage ratings, 112
basics, 67
construction, 327 calculating loads, 112
diagramming, 94
cutting, 335–339 circuit breaker panel, 103
drain-waste-overflow kit, 550
estimating, 326–329 converting amps/volts/watts, 112
fittings, 72, 73
evaluating, 279 final connections, 454–461
testing, 99
hardwood threshold, 332 grounding system, 114
Drill bit reference chart, 585
hot-glue seam tape, 332, 339 lighting circuits, 449, 451, 542, 543
Drop-in sinks, 574
materials, 330 ratings, 111, 112
Ductwork, noise reduction, 222
metal carpet bars, 332, 333 short circuit, 102
DWV system. See Drain-waste-vent (DWV)
seaming, 335–339 60-amp fuse panel, 103
system
securing, 340–342 wattage ratings, 112
on stairs, 329, 342–343 Coaxial cable, 108
stretching, 340–342 Collar ties, 380 E
tackless strips, 332, 333, 334, 343 Compression fittings, 80, 85 Egress windows, 356
tools, 330–331 Contractors and subcontractors, 20–21 Electrical boxes, 106–107, 122–123, 452–453
transitions, 332 Control valves, 438 Electrical devices:
Carpet padding, 326, 334, 335 Coped joints, 263, 265, 405 identifying, 109
Carpet tiles, 324 Copper pipe, 68–69, 74–81 installing, 130–131
Casement windows, 149 compression fittings, 80 See also Wiring
Casing (interior trim), 262 cutting, 76–77 Electrical repair tools, 105
Cast-iron pipe, 68–69, 90–91 fittings chart, 75 Electrical safety, 104
Ceiling fans, 140–141 shutoff valves and supply tubes, 81 Electrical symbols, 113
Ceiling-hung cabinets, 476 soldered joints, 75–76, 78–79 Elevation drawings, 18–19
Ceilings, 10, 216–273 Copper tubing, 68–69 Embossing leveler, 288
cable in, 129 Corners, framing, 49 Entry doors, 164–167
insulation, 218–219 Cornices, built-up, 267 Exterior surfaces
interior trim, 262–273 Countertops, 412, 414, 419 framing, 54-63
recessed light fixtures, 138, 458, 459 ceramic tile, 496–503 patching, 213-215
soundproofing, 220–223 custom (plastic sheet) laminate, 486–492 removing, 32-35
STC ratings, 221 eating-surface standards, 415 See also Doors; Walls
texturing, 236 edges, 494–495, 498
Ceiling tile (pressed mineral and fiberboard), metal laminates, 493
256–258 post-form, 482–485 F
Cementboard, 234–235 Couplings, 70 Family baths, 423
Ceramic tile, 276 CPVC pipe, 68–69 Fiberglass insulation, 218–219
backsplashes, 504–507 Crown molding, 262, 264, 265, 266, 405 Fireplaces, gas, 384–390
countertops, 496–503 Cushion-backed carpet, 327 Fire protection, 16
cutting, 308–309 Cut-pile carpet, 277, 327 Fittings, 70–73
Index 591
Fixtures. See Light fixtures; Plumbing fixtures Guest baths, 422 backsplashes, 498, 504–507
Flexible copper tubing, 68–69 Gutters, 352 in basement, 361
Flexible steel track, 50–51 ceilings, 413
Floor finishes, 274–343 codes and permits, 416
choosing, 276
H design considerations, 410–411
evaluating, 278–279 Habitable rooms, 15, 348 drain lines, 509–510
new floors, preparation, 278–279 Half baths, 422–423, 524–525 DWV pipes, 439–445
removing, 280–285 Hardwood flooring, 279 faucets, 509
wood-frame floors, 278 Headers: floors, 413, 418–419
See also Carpet; Ceramic tile floors; Laminate built-up, 54 food disposers, 420, 512–513
flooring; Subfloors; Underlayment; Vinyl materials, 41 HVAC, 417
flooring; Wood flooring permanent, 44–45 insulation, 437
Floor leveler, 286–287 sizes, 41 lighting, 413, 420
Floor plans, 18–19 Heating systems. See Floor-warming lighting circuits, 449, 451
Floors: system; HVAC plumbing, 413, 417
in attics, 366–369 Heat lamps, with vent fans, 581 project design and planning, 408–409,
in basements, 362–365 Hinged doors, 148 414–417, 418
framing, 10 Home spas/whirlpools, 427, 542, 560–565 residential sprinkler systems, 415
in kitchens, 413, 418–419 House framing, 8–11 specialty tools and supplies, 470, 482, 487, 514
See also Floor finishes House systems, 12–13 ventilation, 413, 417
Floor scraper, 280 HVAC, 13 walls, 413
Floor-warming systems, 302–305, 542 in basements, 357, 358–359 water filtration systems, 511
Food disposers, 449, 451, 455, 457 forced-air systems, 359 water supply pipes, 446–447
Forced-air system, 13, 358-359 in kitchens, 417 work triangle, 414
Expanding, 359 See also Cabinets; Countertops; Sinks; Vent
Foundation drainage systems, 353 I hoods; Wiring
Foundation grade, 352 Kneewalls. See Attics
Foundation, repairing, 353 Insulation, 218-219
Four-way switches, 121, 133 basements, 371
Frame-face cabinets, 467 ceilings, 218–219 L
Frameless (Euro-style) cabinets, 467 R-value, 218 Laminate flooring:
Frameless sinks, 508 kitchens, 437 cutting, 317
Framing, See Carpentry roofs, 382–383 floating floors, 322–323
French doors, 152–154 walls, 218–219 installing, 316–323
French-style patio doors, 169 Interior doors (prehung), 150–151 plastic laminates, 316
Furring strips, 225, 372–373 Interior surfaces. See Walls tongue-and-groove, 318–320
Interior trim, 262–273 wood laminates, 277, 316
Iron pipe, 68–69 wood strip flooring with adhesive, 320–321
G Island sinks, 441–445 Large appliance cables, 108
Gable walls, 64–65 Lead paint, 26, 174
Galvanized iron pipes, 68–69, 88–89 J Light fixtures, 123, 137–139
Garbage disposers. See Food disposers above-cabinet, 460, 461
Garden windows, 180–183 Jacks: as platform framing support, 37–38 ceiling fan and light, 140–141
Gas fireplaces, 384–390 Joints. See Butt joints; Coped joints; Miter in-cabinet, 460
GFCI breakers, 302, 561 joints; Scarf joints; Soldered joints incandescent, 137
GFCI receptacles, 111, 115, 136 Joists, 10 light boxes, 402–405
in bathrooms, 542, 543 attics, 366 mood lights, 561
in kitchens, 454–455 sister joists, 349, 367 recessed, 138, 453, 455, 458, 459
in wet bars, 397 under-cabinet, 459
Glass block windows, 194–197 K vanities, 545
Glossary, 588–589 wiring, 115, 116, 120, 121, 453, 458, 542
Kitchens, 406–421, 434–521
Grab bars, 582-583 Lighting:
appliances, 413, 415, 421
592 Index
in attics and basements, 357 Patio doors, 168-173 Project planning, 7–23
natural light, 16 Partition walls, 46–49 blueprints and drawings, 18–19
Living areas: door openings in, 55–56 building codes and permits, 14–16
codes and permits, 111, 417, 450 staggered-stud partition walls, 223 construction plans, 22–23
habitable rooms, 15, 348 Pedestal sinks, 575 learn about your house, 8–13
Loop-pile carpet, 277, 327 PE pipe, 68–69 professional help, 20–21
Loop vent, 436, 437 PEX pipe, 68–69, 82–84 See also Universal design
Low-flow toilets, 576–577 Picture rails, 262, 267 Protector plates, 225
Lumber dimensions reference chart, 587 Pipe, 68–69 PVC pipes, 68–69, 85
Luxury baths, 423, 427 framing member chart, 96
noise reduction, 221, 222
sizing charts, 95
R
M supporting intervals, 97 Radon, 347
Macerating toilets, 540–541 wrapping, 225 Rafters, 10
Masonry clips, 179 See also Copper pipe; Drain-waste-vent (DWV) Ranges, 449, 456
Masonry nails, 371 pipe; Galvanized iron pipe; PEX pipe; Plastic Receptacles, 114–121, 134–136, 454–461
Masonry screws, 371 pipe; PVC pipe; Water supply (distribution) pipe amperage ratings, 111
Masonry walls, 371–373 Plaster, 30–31, 235 appliance receptacles, 118, 119
Master baths, 423, 526–533 Plastic pipe, 85–87 in basements, 357
Measurements conversion reference chart, 586 Platform framing, 8, 36 double receptacles, 118
Metal siding: door openings in, 57–58 duplex receptacles, 114, 116, 117, 121
removing, 33 jack supports, 37–38 in kitchens, 450
patching, 210 permanent headers, 44–45 split receptacles, 117
Metal tile ceilings, 259–261 stud wall supports, 38 See also GFCI receptacles
Metric equivalents reference chart, 586 temporary supports, 36 Reference charts, 584–587
Metric plywood panels, 587 walls, removing, 42–43 Resilient flooring, See Vinyl
Microwaves, 449, 456 Plumbing, 12, 66–99 Rigid copper pipe, 68–69
Miter boxes, 86, 264 basement bathrooms, 535–539 Roofs:
Miter joints, 263, 265 in basements, 358 framing, 10
Miter saws, 264 basics, 66–67 insulation and ventilation, 382–383
Modular jacks, 143 half baths, 524–525 Rough carpentry, 26–65
Molding, See Crown molding, Interior trim in kitchens, 436–447 Round-top windows, 63
Multimedia outlets, 144 master baths, 526–533
planning, 92-93 S
N tools, 68–69
Plumbing fixtures: Saw blade reference chart, 584
Nailing flanges, 32, 210 faucets, 568–569 Scarf joints, 263, 265
Nail size chart, 587 showerheads, 570 Screen doors, 168
National Electrical Code, 111, 417, 450, 544 Plumbing symbols, 93 Screws:
National plumbing code, 94 Plumbing system, 92–99 counterbore, shank, and pilot hole diameter
NM (nonmetallic) cable, 102, 108 codes and permits, 94–98 reference chart, 585
installing, 124–126 mapping, 92–93 Shakes, 33
stripping, 129 Pocket doors, 149, 155–157 Sheet vinyl, 281, 292, 294–297
Noise reduction, 221–222 Polymer moldings, 268–269 Shingles, 33
Powder-actuated nailers, 372, 377 Showers, 426, 432, 546–548
DWV pipes, 530–531
P Powder rooms, 422
faucets, 569
Power tools:
Painting: showerheads, 570
carpet stretchers, 331
kitchen cabinets, 462–463 tiled base, 554–559
miter boxes, 317
tools, 462 Shutoff valves, 81
miter saws, 264
Paneled ceilings, 248–251 Siding, 33–34, 210, 211
nailers, 266
Parquet tiles, See Laminate flooring See also Board and batten siding; Vinyl siding;
wet saws (tile cutting), 308
Index 593
Wood siding Templates: control valves, 438
Single pole switches, 116, 132 vinyl flooring installation, 293 shutoff valves, 81
Sinks: Temporary supports, 36–39, 61 Vanities, 426, 432, 571–575
in bathrooms, 426, 432, 573–575 T-fittings, 70, 73 light fixtures, 545
DWV pipes, 439–445, 527–529 Thermostats, 119 Vapor barriers, 218, 219
Frameless, 508 THHN/THWN wire, 108 Vent hoods, 514–521
in kitchens, 420–421, 508 Three-quarter baths, 422 cabinet mounted, 517
in wet bars, 395–397 Three-way switches, 120, 121, 133, 458 downdraft cooktops, 517
Pedestal, 575 Tile. See Ceramic tile; Vinyl tiles island, 518–521
Undermount, 508 Toilets, 427, 433, 527–529, 540–541, 576–577 wall mounted, 514–517
Skylights, 200–205 Tongue-and-groove panels: Ventilation, 16
See also Tubular skylight, 198-199 ceilings, 248–251 in attics, 359
Skylight shafts, 206–209 floors, 318–320 in bathrooms, 427
Sliding glass doors, 148, 169 wainscoting, 247 in kitchens, 413, 417
Sliding sash windows, 149 Top plates, 46 in roofs, 382–383
Small appliances, 449, 451, 454–455 Track lighting, 139 See also HVAC
Smoke alarms, 137, 139 Transition fittings, 71 Vinyl flooring, 276, 279, 281–282, 292–301
Soldering, 75–76, 78–79 Trim. See Interior trim cutting template, 293
Solvent-glued fittings, 87 Trusses, 10 reference lines for tile installation, 298
Soundproofing, 220–223 Tubular skylight, 198-199 See also Sheet vinyl; Vinyl tiles
underlayment, 291 Vinyl siding, 33, 210
Stair lifts, 361 Vinyl tiles, 282, 292, 298, 299–301
Stairs and stairways:
U
attics and basements, 350 UF (underground feeder) cable, 108
carpeting, 329, 342–343 Underlayment, 279, 284–285, 288–291 W
Steel channels, 223 fiber/cementboard, 288, 290 Wainscoting, 244-247
Steel framing, 52–53 isolation membrane, 288, 291 Wallboard, 28–29, 224–233
flexible steel track, 50–51 plywood, 288, 289 access panels, 377
Storm doors, 221 Undermount sinks, 508 on ceilings, 228
Storm windows, 221 Union fitting, 88 corners, 232
Structured media systems, 142, 144–145, 357 Universal design: on curves and arches, 230
Stucco, 35, 214–215 accessibility, framing for, 55 cutting, 226–227
Studs: bathrooms, 430–433 seams, 224
framing member chart, 96 doors, 148 on walls, 229
locating, 263 electrical box height, 123 Wall cabinets, 471–473
Subfloors, 279, 286–287 flooring, 277 Walls, 11, 40, 216–273
Supply tubes, 95 grab bars, 582–583 cabinets on, 468–469
Supports, temporary, 36–39, 61 guest suite, 360 cable in, 127–128
Suspended ceilings, 252–255 kitchens, 417–421 cementboard, 234–235
Swinging doors, 148 light fixtures, 137 ceramic tile, 237–243
Switches: planning considerations, 17 curved, 50–51
in kitchens, 450 switches, 132 exterior, patching, 210–215
switched fixture circuits, 543 telephone lines, 142 insulation, 218–219
wiring, 115, 116, 117, 120, 121, 132–133 windows, 148 interior, removing, 27–31
See also Four-way switches; Single pole wiring, 110 interior trim, 262–273
switches; Three-way switches load-bearing, 11, 40
non-load-bearing (partition), 11, 55–56
V removing, 41–45
T Valves, 70–73, 95 soundproofing, 220–223
Telephone cable, 108 air admittance valves (AAVs), 436, 437 STC ratings, 221
Telephone lines, 142–143 anti-scald valves, 569 texturing, 236
Temperature conversion reference chart, 586 brass valves, 79 vanity light fixtures in, 545
594 Index
wainscoting, 244–247 framing, 11, 54, 61–65 codes and permits, 111, 450, 544
wood-frame walls, 215 new windows, installing, 176–179 diagramming, 113
Wall sinks, 439–441 removing, 32, 162–163, 174 grounding, 102, 450
Waste-vent stacks, 437 replacement inserts, 174–175 in kitchens, 413, 416–417, 420, 448–461
Water supply (distribution) pipes: selecting, 149 polarization, 102
basics, 67 stool and apron casings, 271–273 project planning, 110–113
in bathrooms, 533 window hardware, 149 service panels, 103
diagramming, 94 See also Skylights Wiring systems, mapping, 13, 110
in kitchens, 446–447 Window wells, 356 Wood:
plumbing a PEX water-supply system, 84 Wire: attaching to masonry walls, 371–373
sizing chart, 95 pigtailing, 131 beams, 41
Weatherstripping, 221 and push-in fittings, 131 countertop edges, 494–495
Wet bars, 391–397 and screw terminals, 130 shakes and shingles, 212
Wet vents, 98 size chart, 109 Wood flooring, 277, 279
Windows, 146–215 Wiring, 13, 100–145 See also Laminate flooring
in basements, 356 in basements, 357 Wood siding, 32–33, 34, 211
casings, 270–273 basics, 100–109
code requirements, 15 in bathrooms, 542–545
PHOTO CREDITS
Julie Caruso David Livingston Robert Perron
Saint Paul, MN www.davidduncanlivingston.com Branford, CT
©Julie Caruso for Hi-Ho Industries Inc.: © David Livingston: pp.12-13, 413L, 413 TR © Robert Perron: p. 380 both
p. 504BC
Karen Melvin Roger Turk
Brad Daniels Northlight Photography, Inc.
Architectural Stock Images, Inc.
Saint Paul, MN
Minneapolis, MN Southworth, WA
© Brad Daniels for Bright Keys p. 168T
© Karen Melvin: p. 248 for Tim Hartigan, © Roger Turk: p. 412T
Christian Korab p. 412B for Knapp Cabinetry & Woodworking,
Minneapolis, MN p. 422 for William Beson, p. 423B
© Christian Korab: p. 423T
Index & Photo Credits 595

CONTRIBUTORS
Abruzzo Kitchens: p. 410 (both) Fireclay Tile, Inc.: p. 504 Pass & Seymour/Legrand
Kitchen Design by Steven Abruzzo 408-275-1182 800-223-4185
847-885-0500 www.fireclaytile.com www.passandseymour.com
www.abruzzokitchens.com
Florida Tile: p. 413B Pittsburgh Corning Corporation: p. 194
Access One, Inc.: p. 433R 800-FLA-TILE 800-624-2120
800-561-2223 www.floridatile.com www. pittsburghcorning.com
www.beyondbarriers.com
Frigidaire: p. 241TR Plain and Fancy Custom Cabinetry: p. 451BR
Andersen Windows, Inc.: pp. 16T, 149BL, 270 800-FRIGIDAIRE 800-447-9006
800-426-4261, ext. 1232 www.frigidaire.com www.plainandfancycabinets.com
www.andersenwindows.com
General Electric Appliance: p. 421TR Silverline Windows: pp. 174-175 (all)
Armstrong Ceilings: p. 256 (all) 800-626-2000 800-952-4057
800-426-4252 www. geappliances.com www.silverlinewindows.com
www.armstrongceilings.com:
Ginger: p. 432BL The Stanley Works: p. 148L
The Bilco Company: pp. 15, 356T 888-469-6511 800-STANLEY
203-934-6363 www.gingerco.com www.stanleyworks.com
www.bilco.com
Kohler Co.: pp. 17, 313C, 427TR, SunTouch Floor Warming,
Brian Greer’s Tin Ceilings: p. 259 432TR, 433L a division of Watts Heatway
519-743-9310 800-4-KOHLER 417-522-6128
www.tinceiling.com www.kohlerco.com www.suntouch.net
Bruno Independent Living Aids, Inc.: p. 313TL Kolbe and Kolbe Millwork Co., Inc.: p. 180 The Swan Corp./ Swanstone: pp. 431, 566
800-882-8183 800-955-8177 800-325-7008
www.bruno.com www.kolbe-kolbe.com www.swanstone.com
Buddy Rhodes Studio KraftMaid Cabinetry, Inc.: pp. 420R, U-Line Corporation: p. 313TR
photo by davidduncanlivingston.com: p. 409 451BR, 460, 571T 414-354-0300
877-706-5303 800-571-1990 www.u-line.com
www.buddyrhodes.com www.kraftmaid.com
Velux-America, Inc./ Suntunnel: pp. 198T, 200
Crossville, Inc. Kwikset Corporation: p. 148R 800-688-3589
931-484-2110 714-535-8111 www.VELUX-AMERICA.com
www.crossvilleinc.com www.kwikset.com
WingIt Innovations, LLC: p. 583TR
Dal-Tile: p. 504T Madawaska Doors, Inc.: p. 152 877-8WINGIT
214-398-1411 800-263-2358 www.wingits.com
www.daltile.com www.madawaska-doors.com
Dura Supreme, Inc.: pp. 49, 420L, 427L, 460 Mills Pride: p. 45BL
320-543-3872 800-441-0337
www.durasupreme.com www.millspride.com
Finleo Sauna and Steam: p. 427BR Oatey: p. 436R

800-346-6536 1-888-GO-OATEY
www.finnleo.com www.oatey.com
596 Contributors
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
General Construction Materials Recycling Association National Kitchen & Bath Association
630-548-4510 (NKBA)
www.cdrecycling.org 800-843-6522
American Institute of Architects www.nkba.org
800-364-9364 Energy & Environmental Building Association
www.aiaonline.com 952-881-1098 National Wood Flooring Association
www.eeba.org 800-422-4556
American Lighting Association www.woodfloors.org
800-724-4484 International Residential Code (book)
www.americanlightingassoc.com International Conference of Building Officials North American Insulation
800-284-4406 Manufacturers Association
American Society of Interior Designers www.icbo.com 703-684-0084
202-546-3480 www.naima.org
www.asid.org Light Gauge Steel Engineers Association
615-279-9251 Tile Council of America
Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers www.lgsea.com 864-646-8453
202-872-5955 www.tileusa.com
www.aham.org National Association of the
Remodeling Industry (NARI) U.S. Environmental Protection Agency—
Certified Forest Products Council 847-298-9200 Indoor Air Quality
503-224-2205 www.nari.org www.epa.gov/iaq/
www.certifiedwood.org
National Fire Protection Agency
617-770-3000
www.nfpa.org
Universal Design Center for Inclusive Design National Resource Center on Supportive
and Environmental Access Housing and Home Modification
School of Architecture and Planning University of Southern California
ABLEDATA University of Buffalo 213-740-1364
800-227-0216 716-829-3485 ext. 329 www.homemods.org
www.abledata.com www.ap.buffalo.edu/~idea
Trace Research & Development Center
Access One, Inc. The Center for Universal Design University of Wisconsin
800-561-2223 North Carolina State University 608-262-6966
www.beyondbarriers.com 919-515-3082 http://trace.wisc.edu/
www.design.ncsu.edu/cud
Adaptive Environments Center, Inc. U.S. Department of Housing and
617-695-1225 NAHB Research Center Urban Development
www.adaptenv.org 800-638-8556 Office of Policy Development and Research
www.nahbrc.org Information Services
American Association of Retired Persons 800-245-2691
(AARP) www.huduser.org
800-424-3410
www.aarp.org
Additional Resources 597

CREDITS
For revised edition: Contributing Editors, Art Directors,
Set Builders, and Photographers
Executive Editor: Bryan Trandem Phil Aarrestad, Kim Bailey, Mark Biscan, Stewart Block,
Photo Director: Tim Himsel Rose Brandt, Gary Branson, Greg Breining, Timothy Bro,
Managing Editor: Michelle Skudlarek Dave Brus, Keith Bruzelius, Ron Bygness, Jennifer Caliandro,
Project Manager: Tracy Stanley Rudy Calin, Tom Carpenter, Dan Cary, Janice Cauley,
Lead Editor: Thomas G. Lemmer Marcia Chambers, Scott Christiansen, Tom Cooper,
Lead Art Director: Dave Schelitzche Paul Currie, Cy DeCosse, Jim Destiche, Doug Deutsche,
Editor: Andrew Karre Diane Dreon, Arthur Durkee, Barbara Falk, Jerri Farris,
Art Director: Jon Simpson Mary Firestone, Kim Gerber, Abby Gnagey, Patricia Goar,
Photo Researcher: Julie Caruso Paul Gorton, Lynne Hanauer, Carol Harvatin,
Lead Photographer: Tate Carlson Rebecca Hawthorne, Tom Heck, Jon Hegge, Mike Hehner,
Lead Set Builder: Randy Austin Paul Herda, John Hermansen, Jonathan Hinz, Lori Holmberg,
Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Helga Thielen Jim Huntley, Rex Irmen, Mark Johanson, Troy Johnson,
Kari Johnston, Rob Johnstone, William B. Jones, Phil Juntti,
Assistant Set Builder: Glenn Austin, Marcus Landrum Patrick Kartes, Geoffrey Kinsey, Tony Kubat, Karl Larson,
Assistant Photographer: Joel Schnell John Lauenstein, Bill Lindner, Earl Lindquist, Daniel London,
Proofreader: Charles E. Pederson Barbara Lund, Curtis Lund, Mark Macemon, Bernice Maehren,
Indexer: Teresa Hudoba Dave Mahoney, Paul Markert, Brett Martin, Jamey Mauk,
Illustrator: Earl Slack
Jeanette Moss McCurdy, John Nadeau, Paul Najlis,
Bill Nelson, Charles Nields, Mette Nielsen, Kristen Olson,
Carol Osterhus, Brad Parker, Mike Parker, Christian Paschke,
Mike Peterson, Greg Pluth, Anne Price-Gordon, John Riha,
Tom Rosch, Susan Roth, Andrea Rugg, Gary Sandin,
Joel Schmarje, Philip Schmidt, Mark Scholtes, Ned Scubic,
Gina Seeling, Cathleen Shannon, Mike Shaw, Hugh Sherwood,
Dane Smith, Steve Smith, Angela Spann, Brad Springer,
Copyright ©2005 Dick Sternberg, Lori Swanson, Andrew Sweet, Dianne Talmage,
Creative Publishing international, Inc. Glenn Terry, Keith Thompson, Gregory Wallace, Kevin Walton,
18705 Lake Drive East Joanne Wawra, Robert Weaver, Brad Webster, Wayne Wendland,
John Whitman, Dan Widerski, Christopher Wilson,
Chanhassen, MN 55317
Mike Woodside
1-800-328-3895
www.creativepub.com
All rights reserved. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
President/CEO: Ken Fund The complete photo guide to home improvement : with 300 projects and
Vice President/Editorial: Linda Ball 2000 photos.
Vice President/Retail Sales & Marketing: Kevin Haas p. cm.
Includes index.
Printed in Singapore At head of title: Black & Decker.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ISBN 1-58923-212-7 (hard cover)
1. Dwellings--Remodeling--Amateurs' manuals. 2.
Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing Dwellings--Remodeling--Pictorial works. I. Black & Decker Corporation
international, Inc., in cooperation with (Towson, Md.)
Black & Decker. is a trade- TH4816.C646 2005
mark of The Black & Decker Corporation 747--dc22
and is used under license. 2005010605
To the fullest extent of the law, Black & Decker assumes no responsibility and shall not be held liable for any dam-
age to property or injury to person as a result of content contained in this book not specifically developed by The
Black & Decker Corporation.
598 Credits
N ew from
CREATIVE PUBLISHING
INTERNATIONAL
The Complete
Photo Guide
to Home Repair
T he Complete Photo Guide

to Home Repair is the most chapters on: choosing and using hand and
up-to-date, complete, and useful guide to power tools; diagnosing and correcting
home repair a homeowner can have. With home safety and health problems; and cre-
more than 350 projects and 2500 photos, ating and maintaining a home workshop.
virtually every home repair challenge is
covered. New in this major revision to an ISBN 1-58923-181-3
all-time classic best-seller are important
Creative Publishing international

18705 Lake Drive East
Chanhassen, MN 55317
www.creativepub.com

N
POISO

Stuck on You.
Your home is important to you, so we’d like to help

you take care of it. On the next couple of pages you’ll
find household helpers that are really dedicated to
the well-being of your home. In fact, we’ve enlisted
FLAMMA

250 of them just for you! These helpers are easy
peel-and-stick labels that do everything from track
BLE maintenance schedules to protect your home and
everyone in it.
You’ll find labels that help you: remember the names

for paint you’ve used to decorate your rooms; track
AC
E maintenance schedules for furnaces, air-conditioners,
RN
FU ILTER
F and other appliances; post calendar reminders for
all home maintenance routines; label your tools
and other belongings; label hazardous household
chemicals; and post simulated home security labels
in windows to discourage intruders.
Complete Home Improvement—
Practical Homeowner Edition
n this expanded softcover edition of the classic Complete Photo Guide to Home
Improvement, you get all the remodeling information and projects contained in
the original best-seller, but at a new low price and with a convenient, washable
vinyl cover that allows you to use the book right at your work site.
And as an extra bonus, this new edition includes more than 250 peel-and-stick
labels to help you:
■ Track maintenance schedules for your furnace,

air-conditioner and other appliances
■ Label hazardous household chemicals

■ Post calendar reminders for all your home
maintenance routines
■ Label your tools and other materials so they’ll return

to you after you lend them to friends and neighbors
■ Post simulated home security labels in windows

to discourage intruders
■ 300 step-by-step projects ■ Reference sections cover- ■ Expert advice on Universal

and over 2000 full-color ing basic carpentry, plumb- Design—design aimed at
photographs ing, and wiring, updated making your home safe
to include new materials and more accessible for
such as steel framing and individuals of all ages,
PEX water-supply tubing sizes, and abilities
ISBN – 13: 978-1-58923-356-0

ISBN – 10: 1-58923-356-5
$24.95 US
UPC
EAN
£16.99 UK
$29.95 CAN
www.creativepub.com

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COMPLETE

Wall shown Bottom

8 Project Planning/ Your House

Ridge board Roof

Project Planning/ Your House 9

Roof Top cord

10 Project Planning/ Your House

Ceiling (or floor) joists

Single top plate

Cutaway view Cutaway view

Project Planning/ Your House 11

12 Project Planning/ Your House

Gas supply Furnace

Project Planning/ Your House 13

14 Project Planning/ Building Codes & Permits

Exits and Openings

Project Planning/ Building Codes & Permits 15

16 Project Planning/ Building Codes & Permits

Planning with Universal Design

Framing for Accessibility . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Selecting Doors & Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148

Project Planning/ Universal Design 17

detail than floor plans.

18 Project Planning/ Drawings

Project Planning/ Drawings 19

Getting Help from Professionals

Finding Reputable Contractors

20 Project Planning/ P rofessionals

product was satisfactory, and whether they

Project Planning/ P rofessionals 21

Making a Construction Plan

3. Get the permits

5. Complete the framing and major

22 Project Planning/ Const r uction Plan

8. Add the finishing touches

adding ducts, installing under-floor drains, or

6. Complete the rough-ins

7. Finish the walls and ceilings

Project Planning/ Const r uction Plan 23

Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces 27

Tools: Protective eyewear, dust mask, stud finder, chalk line,

Tips for Removing Wallboard

28 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces

Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces 29

Tools: Protective eyewear, dust mask, work gloves, chalk line,

30 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces

Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Interior Sur faces 31

Tools: Protective eyewear, stapler, flat pry bar, zip tool,

32 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces

Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces 33

34 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces

Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Exterior Sur faces 35

Making Temporary Supports

Platform framing is found in most homes

Balloon framing is found in many homes

36 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Temporar y Supports

Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Temporar y Supports 37

Supporting Platform Framing with Jacks (joists parallel to project wall)

38 Basic Te c h n i q u e s : Carpentry/ Temporar y Supports