2 - Aatcc TM135 150 158 (2018-03)

AATCC TM135-2018
Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after

Home Laundering
AATCC TM150-2018
Dimensional Changes of Garments after
Home Laundering
AATCC TM158-2016
Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in
Perchloroethylene: Machine Method
© Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Dimensional Change
• a generic term for changes in the length or
width of a fabric or garment specimen
subjected to specified conditions. The
change is usually expressed as a
percentage of the initial dimension of the
specimen.
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Laundering
• A process intended to remove soils and/or
stains by treatment (washing) with
aqueous detergent solution and normally
including rinsing, extraction and drying.
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drycleaning
• The cleaning of
fabrics with organic
solvents such as
petroleum solvent,
perchloroethylene or
fluorocarbon.
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Why Dimensional Change Matters
• Care labels
16 CFR 423
https://www.ftc.gov/node/119456
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Why Dimensional Change Matters
• Customer satisfaction
• Impacts other fabric/garment properties
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Can be Combined with
Other Methods
 Appearance  Skew/Twist
AATCC TM88B AATCC TM179
AATCC TM88C AATCC TM207
AATCC TM124  Stain Release
AATCC TM143 AATCC TM130
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Scope
TM135
• Flat fabrics
• Individual panels of sewn items
TM150
• Garments
• Circular knits used in tubular form
TM158
• Fabrics & garments
• Excludes “very sensitive materials” requiring special care
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Materials
• Indelible marking pen
• Ruler or shrinkage scale
• Conditioning facilities
• Flat surface for marking and measuring
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Shrinkage Scale
• Use with 10-in or 18-in benchmarks
• Measures % change directly
• Be sure to use the correct side of the
Shrinkage Growth
scale! (-) (+)
PERCENT SHRINKAGE
20 10 0 10
20 10 0 10
AATCC PO BOX 12215 RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC 27709
Shrinkage Growth
(-) (+)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Test Specimens: TM135
• 3 specimens
• Option 1: 380  380 mm (15  15 in)
Option 2: 610  610 mm (24  24 in)
Narrow fabrics: 380 mm (15 in) long
• Different warp & fill yarns
• Pink edges as needed
• May also be used for
Selvage
TM124, TM179, TM130
AATCC TM135, 150, 158
• Garment
• 3 specimens (garments) when possible
• May also be used for TM143, TM179,
TM207, TM130
Selvage
AATCC TM135, 150, 158
• Fabric specimens ≥ 500 × 500 mm
• Slit circular knits
• Stitched edges with polyester thread
or
• Garment WWWWWWW
WWWWWWW
WWWWWWW
WWWWWWW
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Conditioning
• ASTM D1776
• Flat, single layer, no tension
or
On hanger
• Air circulation through
and around
• 21°C ±2°C (70°F ±4°F)
• 65% ±5% relative humidity (RH)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158
Benchmarks: TM135
Mark 250- or 460-mm:
W1 L1
W2 L2
W3 L3
For ruler:
• Measure to nearest mm, ⅛
in., or ⅟10 in.
• Calculate average L
• Calculate average W
• Measurement A (original)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Benchmarks: TM135 (narrow)
< 25 mm 25-125 mm • Use full width
• Mark 250-mm:
L1
L2 (if 25-125 mm wide)
• Mark W1 (optional)
380 mm
• Measure
• Calculate average L
• Calculate average W
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Benchmarks: TM150
• ≥ 25 mm (1 in) from edges and seams
• Mark 250- or 460-mm:
• W1 L1
• W2 L2
• W3 L3
• Measure
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Benchmarks: TM150
• Benchmarks across panels may be used
• Mark & report measurement points
Mark and measure:

Front length
Front width
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Benchmarks: TM158
• 3 pairs each direction
• ≥ 250 mm apart
• Mark garment areas separately
 Garment panels
 Outer fabric/lining
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Laundering Materials
• Automatic washer
• Tumble dryer or drying facilities
• Detergent
• Ballast
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

www.aatcc.org/test/washers
AATCC TM135, 150, 158 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Standard Washing Conditions
Alternate conditions listed in LP1

(note as a modification of the test method)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

1993 AATCC Standard
Reference Detergent
• Powder detergent
• For “traditional” top-loading washers
• 66 g per load
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Standard www.aatcc.org/test/detergent
Reference Detergent
• No phosphates
• No bleach, enzymes,
colors, fragrances
• Consistency for valid
comparison
of test results
• With or without optical
brightener
www.aatcc.org/test/washers/#detergent
AATCC TM135, 150, 158
Laundering Ballast
• 92  92 cm (36  36 in) hemmed white
sheets
• Type 1: 100% cotton

• Type 3: 50% polyester/
50% cotton
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Washing Procedure
• Select machine cycle
• Select wash temperature
• Add water
• Add detergent
• Add specimens and enough ballast to
make 1.8-kg (4-lb) load
• Start wash cycle
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Standard Drying Conditions
(A) Tumble
i. Cotton Sturdy
ii. Delicate
iii. Permanent Press
(B) Line
(C) Drip
(D) Screen
AATCC TM135, 150, 158
Tumble Dry (A)
• Remove from wash immediately after final spin
• Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
• Place full load (specimens and ballast) in dryer
• Set exhaust temperature
• Normal or Perm Press: 68°C (155°F) max.
• Delicate: 60°C (140°F) max.
• Dry completely
• Remove immediately
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Line Dry (B)
• TM135: Hang specimens by two corners, fabric
length in vertical direction
• TM150: Hang specimens on hangers
• Dry in still air at room temperature
• ≤ 26°C (78°F)
• Do not blow air directly on specimens
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Line Dry (B)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Line Dry (B)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drip Dry (C)
• Remove from wash immediately after final
rinse (soaking wet, before final spin)
• Hang as for line dry
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Screen Dry (D)
• Spread on horizontal surface allowing air
movement on all sides
• Smooth without distorting or stretching
• Dry in still air at room temperature
• ≤ 26°C (78°F)
• Do not blow air directly on specimens
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Screen Dry (D)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Number of Laundering Cycles
• “Pass” after 1 cycle: continue to 3 cycles
• “Fail” after 1 cycle: stop test
or
• As agreed between buyer and seller
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Ironing
• If specimens would always be ironed by a
consumer, iron before measuring
• Minimal pressure to remove wrinkles
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drycleaning Materials
• Perchloroethylene
• Sorbitan mono-oleate (Span 80)
• Drycleaning machine
• Ballast
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drycleaning Reagents
• Perchloroethylene
 See Safety Precautions!
 Group 2A carcinogen
 Respiratory or dermal entry
 Use ventilated hood, chemical goggles,
impervious gloves and apron
• Sorbitan monooleate
 Skin, eye, respiratory irritant
Drycleaning Machine
• Rotating cage
• 600-1080 mm diameter
• ≥ 300 mm depth
• 3-4 lifters
• 0.5-0.8 g-force cleaning
• 35-120 g-force extraction
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drycleaning Ballast
• Clean fabrics or garments
• White or light color
• 80% wool/20% cotton or rayon
• Total load:
 50 kg/m3 of cage volume
(33 kg/m3 for sensitive materials)
 ≤ 10% specimen mass (90% ballast)
 Condition for 24 hours
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drycleaning Procedure
• Add conditioned load to machine
• Add 6.5 L perc solution per kg of load
 1 g/L sorbitan monooleate
• Maintain 30 ± 3°C solvent temperature
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

• Prepare emulsion & stir
 1 part (by volume) sorbitan monooleate
 3 parts perc
 2 parts water (add last)
• Start machine (filter circuit off)
• Add emulsion
 2% water on mass of load
 Add slowly (2-12 min)
 Between inner and outer cage
 Below solvent level
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

• Run machine 15 min
• Drain solvent
• Extract 2 min (≥ 1 min at full speed)
• Add fresh perc solution (6.5 L/kg)
• Rinse 5 min
• Extract 3 min (≥ 2 min at full speed)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drycleaning Procedure:
Sensitive Materials
• 10 L perc solution per kg of load
• Solvent RH 63% (no emulsion addition)
• Run 10 min
• Extract 1 min at full speed
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Drying Procedure
• Use combined or separate machine
• Tumble in circulating warm air
 Outlet ≤ 60°C or inlet ≤ 80°C
 “Appropriate” time
(auto solvent-dryness control preferred)
• Blow air at ambient temperature
 Continue rotating load
 3-5 min
AATCC TM135, 150, 158
Finishing Procedure
• Remove specimens after drying
• Place garments on hangers
• Lay fabric on flat surface
• Wait ≥ 30 min before finishing
• Steam or press as appropriate
 Press 370-490 kPa2
 Steam former 5-20 s
5-20 s warm air
AATCC TM135, 150, 158
Number of Drycleaning Cycles
• 1 cycle
or
• As agreed between buyer and seller
 Most change released after 3-5 cycles
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Conditioning
• Repeat conditioning procedure after final
dry, iron, press, or steam
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Final Measurement:
Shrinkage Scale
• Read % change directly from scale
• Calculate average change in length
• Calculate average change in width
Final Measurement: Ruler
• Measure between marked points
 Same surface
 Same measurement device
• For TM135:
 Calculate average length measurement
 Calculate average width measurement
• Measurement B (after laundering)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Calculation: Benchmarks
• Calculate length and width change separately
 nearest 0.1% for laundering
 nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
Average Dimensional Change = B-A  100%

A
• A = initial measurement (avg for TM135)
• B = final measurement (avg for TM135)
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Calculation: Garments
• Calculate change for each garment location
 nearest 0.1% for laundering
 nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
• Average length measurements, if applicable
• Average width measurements, if applicable
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Interpretation
• Negative dimensional change: shrinkage
• Positive dimensional change: growth
-10% L
-10% W
-10% L
+10% W
+10% L
+10% W
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Report: TM135 & TM150
• Sample description
• Test method (including year)
• Ballast (Type 1 or 3)
• Detergent (with out without brightener)
• Number of laundering cycles (usually 3)
• Laundering conditions
• Distortion/wrinkling before laundering
• Iron setting, if used
• Modification(s) of test method
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Report: TM135 & TM150
• For each direction or garment location:
 Direction/location
 Average dimensional change to nearest 0.1%
 Number of measurements in average
• Usually 9: 3 sets of benchmarks × 3 specimens
 Original benchmark distance
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Report: TM158
• Test method
• Normal or Sensitive procedure
• % Dimensional change
 Each direction
 Each garment location
• Specimen % of load
• Ballast material
• Maximum inlet or outlet drying air temp
• Finishing treatment
• Number of cycles
AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Questions?
• Diana Wyman
Technical Director, AATCC
diana@aatcc.org
• Adi Chehna
Chair
RA42, Dimensional Changes Test Methods
AATCC TM135, 150, 158


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2 - Aatcc TM135 150 158 (2018-03)

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AATCC TM135-2018

Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after

© Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

scale! (-) (+)

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Mark and measure:

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Alternate conditions listed in LP1

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

• Type 1: 100% cotton

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

Average Dimensional Change = B-A  100%

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

AATCC TM135, 150, 158

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